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Traditional Motifs, Techniques

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AN ABSTRkCTABTRkCT OF T1ET1E TffESITffEI OF Nona JeanJean NelsonNelson ror for the the IVI. M. S.8,in. Clothing, Textiles, and. Related Arts Date thesis is presented Ju1yuly 23,23, 19571957 Title The InfluenceInfluence orof Swedish,Swedish, Finnish,Finnish, and.and DanishDanish Textiles on Contemporary Americanerican Fabrics Abstract approvedapproved ',,',Signature redacted for privacy. ScandinaviScandinavian textiles have played an importantimportant partpart in the ramilyfamily life of the Nordic people. During the evenings, members orof a ramilyfamily worked on textiles and wove colors anand designs of the countryside and o1of the ramilyfamily lirelife into their rabrics.fabrics. Traditional motifs,moti1s, techniques,techniques, and color combinationscombinations werewere developeddeveloped andand passed.passed down through the years fromfrom familyfamily toto family. The techniques orof weaving Scandinavian textiles may may be divided into groupsgroups accordingaccording to to thethe method used. used in weaving the fabrics.rabrics.These groups are tapestry weaves, pile-knot weaving,weaving, r1ishingflushing weaves,weaves, plainplain weaves,weaves, and.and other weaves which willwill not fitfit intointo a particular group- ing. Each group hashas characteristiccharacteristic motirs,motifs, colors,colors, and.and yarn content. Many techniques are centuries old. Scandinavian craft craft societiessocieties are responsible rorfor thethe revival of handcraftshandcrafts arterafter thethe industrialindustrial revolu.tion.revolution. These societiessocieties aid.aid inin preservingpreserving traditional patterns. techniques and color combinations,cobinations, andand inin encouragingencouraging folkrolk art. There are many Scandinavian textile designers who have gained recognition in their country and inin thethe United States. Many ofor their fabrics have been importedimported to the United States. Mdrta Maas-Fjetterstrdrn,Maas-Fjetterstrdm, Astrid.Astrid Sampe-Hultberg, DoraDora sung,sung, CountCount Bernad.otte,Bernadotte, andand PaulaPaula Trock are some of the leading Scandinavian designers who are influencing designs in contemporary Americanfabrics. Many of theirtheir designsdesigns and.and patternspatterns are basedbased onon traditionaltraditional ScandinavianSeand.inavian fabrics.fabrics. ManyMauy fabric rabric designers inin thethe United.United StatesStates showshow thethe influenceinflu.ence ofor ScandinavianScandinavian textilestextiles inin theirtheir fabrics.rabrics. Similarity isis seenseen inin colors, designs,designs, motirs,motifs, and.and. in weaving techniques.Some designers who show Scandinavian influence areare DorothyDorothy Lie'bes,Liebes, MariaMaria Kipp,Kipp, JackJack LenorLenor Larsen, Robert Sailors, Frank Lloyd Wright, Boris Kroll, and Finnish-born Marianne Strengell. Influence oro1 Scandinavian textiles on contemporary AmericanAierican fabrics may also be seen in other sources. Collections ofof Labricsfabrics beingbeing produced.produced byby companiescompanies such as Celanese, FullerFuller Fabrics,Fabrics, andand SchumacherSchumacher and.and CompanyCompany are showing influenceinfluence ofof foreignforeign cou.ntries,countries, includingincluding the Scandinavian countries. Exhibitions ofo1 Scandinavian fabricsrabrics areare alsoalso inrlu.encinginfluencing Americanerican fabrics.rabrics. 'Desin"Design in Scandinavia" is an example, and individuals such as Count Bernadotte are showingshowing rabricsfabrics in private show- ings. Imported textiles from the Scandinavian countries are also influencing American textiles. Scandinavian&and.inavian influence on contemporary American fabricsrabrics is seen.seen. inin adaptationsadaptations orof color,color, motirs,motifs, and.and weaving techniques. Influence is also made by leading designers o1of AmericaAmerica and.and Scandinavia; and.and weavingweaving schools inin Arnerica,America, Sweden,Sweden, Finland,Finland, and.and DenmarkDenmark alsoalso exert considerable influence. Because ofo1 the amount ofo1 influence and the interest seen in Scandinavian rabrics,fabrics, Sweden, Finland, and Denmark are among the countries leadingleading inin influenceinfluence onon conteniporarycontemporary AmericanAmerican fabrics. THE INFLUENCEINFLUENCE OF OF SVEDISH, SVEDISH, Ffl'NISH, Ffl'NISH, ANDA1D DANISH TEXTILES ONON CCONTEMPORARY ONTE1\PORARY A11ERI £'1ERI CAN FABRICS by NONA .TEANIEAN NELSONNELSON A THESISTHESIS submitted to OREGON STATE STATE COLT.RGEC OLLEGE in partialpartial fulfillmentfulfillment ofof the requirementsrequirements forfor the degree of MASTERMA$TER OFOF SCIENCE tune 1958195 APPROVED: Signature redacted for privacy. Professor of Clothing,Clothing, Textiles,Textiles, and. and RelatedRelated ArtsArts In ChargeCharge ofof MajorMajor Signature redacted forfor privacy.privacy. Head.Head orof DepartmentDepartnient of of Clothing, Clothing, TextilesTextiles andand Related ArtsArts Signature redacted for privacy. OhairianChairman ofor SchoolSchool Grathiateradu.ate CoimuitteeCoimnittee Signature redactedfor privacy. .._- Dean ofof GraduateGraduate SchoolSchool Date thesisthesis isis presentedpresented 2J3J /e7/é-7 Typed byby EstherEsther SuzanneSuzanne NelsonNelson ACKNOVLEDGMENTACKNOWLEDGMENT The author expresses her appreciation to Miss Toan Patterson, ProfessorProfessor of'of Clothing,Clothing, Textiles,Textiles, and.and RelatedRelated Arts,J.rts, forfor herher assistanceassistance andand encouragementencouragement duringduring thethe preparation of this thesis. Appreciation and.and aoknowledgnientaoknowledgnient isis alsoalso extendedertended to Mrs. Esther Nelson,Nelson, thethe author'sauthor's niother,mother, withoutwithout whosewhose assistance parts of this thesis would not have been possible. Appreciation is also extended to Miss Ruth McCorkle,McOorkle, InstructorThstructor in English, for her invaluable help and tech- nical advice. TABLE O1Oi CONTENTS Page CHAPTER IINTRODUCTION 1 Purpose ofor the Study 3 Limitations ofor the Study 4 CHAPTER II HISTORIC $CAIDINAVIAI8CANDINAVW TEXTILESTEXTILES 5 DevelopmentDevelopnient ofo1 ScandinavianScandinavian TertilesTextiles 5 Characteristics o1of Scandinavian textiles 7 Scandinavian tapestries 8 Ryijy ruesrugs 9 Preservation of textile designs 13 Textiles as used in the home and in dress 15 Scandinavian WeavingWeaving TechniquesTechniques 19 Tapestry techniques 19 Pile knot weaving 32 FlashingFlushing 37 Other weavesweaves 47 Scandinavian Craft Societies 59 CHAPTEROEAP1R IIIIII CONTEMPORARYCONTEMPORA.RY SCANDINAVIANSO NDIiAVIA DESIGNDESIGNERSRS 63 Swedish Designers 63 Finnish Designers 73 Danish Designers 77 Page CHATTERCILA.PTER IVIV CONTEMPORkRYCONTPORARY AiRICNURICAN DESIGNERS DESIG1N2S INFLUENCED BY SCANDINAVIAN TEXTILES 79 Mrs. Eliel Saarinen 80 Marianne Strengell 81 Anni Albers 84 Greta Magnusson Grossman 86 Maria Kipp 87 Dorothy Liebes 91 Tack LeziorLenor LarsenLarsen 93 Robert Sailors 97 Henning WattersonWattorson 100 Frank Lloyd Wright 101 Knoll Associates 104 Boris Kroll 105 CHAPTER V OTHER AVENIThSAVENUES OF SCAIDINAVIAi\SCANDINAVIAN INFLUENCE ON CONTEMPORARYCONTE[FORARY FABRICS 108 CHAPTER VI CONCLUSION 117 BIBLIOGRAPHY 121 Th.BLETLBI.E OFOF PLTSPTATS No. Page Traditional Weaving TeenniquesTecnniques ofo Sweden, Finland,Finland, and.and. DerunarkDenmark 20 Ground Webs 22 FlmskvavnadFlAmskv'ávnad TechniquesTechniques 2424. A diagrariidiagram illustrating illustrating the method.method. of'of interlocking weft tireads in the RllakanRSllakan technique.I,teehnique.I, 282 RllakanR1lakan 29 A diagram Illustratingillustrating the method otof introducing the pattern thread. in the technique of Souivak-inlay 31 The method of knotting in flossa pile 33 Double Flossa 35 DukagangDukagn 404.0 I. MunkabälteMunlcabälte 454.5 RosengngRoseng&ng 48 A d.Iagramdiagram showingshowing thethe techniquetechnique ofot Danish Open Work 53 Danish Open Work 54 Tapestry by Mrta Ms Fjetterstrm 66 Fabric by Maria Kipp 90 Fabric by Jack L. Larsen 96 Fabric by Robert Sailors 99 Fabric by Frank L. Wright 103 XII. Fabric by Boris Kroll 106 Pile rugs 111 Tapestries 113 No. Page Pile rug ll411 Drapery 115 THE INFLUENCE OF OF SWEDISH,SWEDISH, FINNISH,FINNISH, AND DANISH DANISH TEXTILES TEILES ONON CONTE1PORARY AMERICAN AMERICM FABRICS CHAPTER I1 INTRODUCTION Decorative textilestextiles havehave longlong playedplayed anan importantimportant part in man'sman's life,lire,Since early times,times, manman has usedused rab-fab- rics toto decoratedecorate hishi borneborne andand hishis body,body, andand throughoutthroughout the centuries, thethe artart or of weaving weaving andand textile designdesign hashas be-be- come a a highly highly developeddeveloped skill. skill.As thethe techniquestechniques orof weav-weav- ing and,and thethe developnientdevelopment of of designsdesigns grew,grew, differencesdifi'erences in the designsdesigns orof variousvarious areasareas occurred.occurred. For example,example, American Indian Indian tribes tribes werewere identifiable identifiable accordingaccording to their di.rferentdifferent dress. Many countries countries have have contributed contributed to to the the world'sworld's col-col- lection ofof textiles.textiles.Luxurious silksilk brocad.esbrocades were de- veloped.veloped in in the the Orient,Orient, Kashmir shawls shawls and and calicos calicos origi- origi- nated,nated inin India, PersianPersian rugsrugs came came fromfrom the NearNear East, andand beautiful velvetsvelvets developed,developed in in ItalyItaly andand Spain, giving a wide variety variety ofof elegant,elegant, colorfulcolorrul
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