California’s Fourteeners Hikes to Climbs Sean O’Rourke Cover photograph: Thunderbolt Peak from the Paliasde Traverse. Frontispiece: Polemonium Peak’s east ridge. Copyright © 2016 by Sean O’Rourke. All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced in any form without express permission from the author. ISBN 978-0-98557-841-1 Contents 1 Introduction 1 1.1 Who should read this .......................... 1 1.2 Route difficulty ............................. 2 1.3 Route points .............................. 3 1.4 Safety and preparedness ........................ 4 1.5 Climbing season ............................ 7 1.6 Coming from Colorado ........................ 7 2 Mount Langley 9 2.1 Southwest slope ............................ 10 2.2 Tuttle Creek ............................... 11 3 Mount Muir 16 3.1 Whitney trail .............................. 17 4 Mount Whitney 18 4.1 Whitney trail .............................. 19 4.2 Mountaineer’s route .......................... 20 4.3 East buttress *Classic* ......................... 21 5 Mount Russell 24 5.1 East ridge *Classic* ........................... 25 5.2 South Face ............................... 26 5.3 North Arête ............................... 26 6 Mount Williamson 29 6.1 West chute ............................... 30 7 Mount Tyndall 31 7.1 North rib ................................ 32 7.2 Northwest ridge ............................ 32 8 Split Mountain 36 8.1 North slope ............................... 37 i 8.2 East Couloir .............................. 37 8.3 St. Jean Couloir ............................. 38 9 Middle Palisade 41 9.1 Northeast Face *Classic* ........................ 42 9.2 Traverse via Disappointment Peak ................... 44 9.3 Farquhar route ............................. 46 10 Mount Sill 47 10.1 North couloir .............................. 48 10.2 Southwest slope ............................ 49 11 North Palisade 51 11.1 U-notch ................................. 54 12 Thunderbolt Peak 57 12.1 Southwest chute #1 .......................... 58 12.2 Underhill couloir ............................ 60 13 White Mountain 65 13.1 White Mountain road .......................... 66 14 Mount Shasta 67 14.1 Avalanche Gulch ............................ 68 14.2 Clear Creek ............................... 69 15 Traverses and link-ups 73 15.1 Russell-Whitney-Muir ......................... 73 15.2 Tyndall-Williamson ........................... 74 15.3 Thunderbolt to Sill *Classic* ...................... 74 15.4 Thunderbolt to Split .......................... 76 15.5 Thunderbolt to Middle Palisade .................... 76 A Trailheads 77 B Permits and rules 81 C Further scrambling 83 D Other resources 87 ii iii MAPS Maps Mount Langley .................................. 12 Mount Whitney area ............................... 26 Mount Williamson and Mount Tyndall ...................... 33 Split Mountain .................................. 39 Palisades area ................................... 61 Mount Shasta ................................... 70 1 Introduction There are around 70 peaks above 14,000 feet in the continental United States. The majority are found in the Rockies of western Colorado, where high valleys, gentle terrain, and established routes make many of the peaks accessible to people with little outdoor experience. A smooth progression of difficulty leads from the easiest peaks to the hardest. The easy access, abundance of peaks, and gentle learning curve have made climbing these “fourteeners” Colorado’s unofficial state sport, and it is rare to have one to yourself on a summer weekend. Washington is home to one fourteener, Mount Rainier, which rises 10,000 feet or more from its base on all sides, covered entirely in glaciers. Though far more challeng- ing than most Colorado peaks, Rainier is similarly popular, with several companies offering paid guiding to the large population of nearby Seattle. However, Rainier stands alone in Washington, not lying on an inviting learning curve. The state has many shorter peaks, but only a handful of them are similar glaciated volcanoes. Also, most climbs start low in densely-wooded valleys and require significant cross-country travel, making them inaccessible to novices. The remaining fifteen fourteeners are in California, including the highest, Mount Whitney. Like Whitney, most are found in the high Sierra between Lone Pine and Bishop. The remaining two are White Mountain Peak, the high-point of a dry range across the Owens Valley from the Sierra, and Mount Shasta, a Pacific Rim volcano near the Oregon border. Thanks to a pack trail built by Gustave Marsh in 1904, thousands of people climb Whitney each year. Most stop there: “fourteenering” has not become the sport in California that it is in Colorado. Partly, this is because there are fewer “easy” peaks to serve as an introduction for novices, and the hardest few are somewhat technical even by their easiest routes. However, there is a reasonable learning curve for California’s fourteeners, and climbing them is an excellent introduction to mountaineering in the Sierra and elsewhere. 1.1 Who should read this This book is intended as a guide to California’s fourteeners for someone comfortable on moderate, established routes like Whitney’s trail and the easier Colorado fourteen- ers. The ideal reader should be reasonably fit and eager to explore, but may have less experience and confidence route-finding off trail and on steeper terrain. This book will guide the reader through climbing progressively more difficult routes on Califor- nia’s fourteeners, in the process developing the confidence and skills to climb many 1 1.2. ROUTE DIFFICULTY 2 other wonderful Sierra peaks (see “Further scrambling”, p. 83). Rather than briefly describing all known routes, it focuses on the standard route and a few others for each peak, describing each in some detail. In addition to low- resolution maps of each peak’s surroundings, it provides full-sized 1:24,000-scale USGS topographic maps and labeled photos of key sections. The routes range from walks along trails, to boulder-hopping, to moderate technical climbing. Unlike most guidebooks, which compile a large number of route descriptions from numerous con- tributors, all routes are described from first-hand experience by the author, hopefully providing greater consistency. This book is not a general guide to hiking, camping, or trail-running; many such books exist, covering each subject in much more detail than could be provided here. And it is definitely not a guide to technical climbing technique or gear. Roped climbing is best learned from an experienced friend or professional instructor. Even those who want to improve their unroped scrambling skills will benefit from some basic climbing instruction and practice at a local climbing area or gym. Also, while the book lists first ascent parties and offers a few historical anecdotes, it does not delve deeply into the fascinating history of exploration and mountaineering in the Sierra Nevada (see “Other resources”, p. 87). 1.2 Route difficulty Each route is given a Yosemite Decimal System (YDS) “class,” which roughly reflects the difficulty of its most challenging move. These classes can be described as follows (with the colors used to draw them on maps): Class 1: A trail or easy cross-country travel. Class 2: Cross-country travel requiring intermittent use of hands for balance, such as crossing a talus field. Class 3: Easy scrambling requiring the use of hands for upward motion. Class 4: More difficult scrambling, requiring some experience with climbing tech- nique. Where class 3 is usually downclimbed facing outward, class 4 is often either downclimbed facing inward or rappeled. Class 5: Technical climbing, where a rope is often used for both ascent and descent. This class is divided into subclasses 5.0 through (currently) 5.15. A novice can generally climb rock up to 5.4–5.6 on a toprope, while an average person with some practice can climb 5.8–5.9. Difficulties 5.10 and above are the domain of serious climbers, with 5.12 and above reserved for climbing’s élite. The system is inconsistent and subjective, with ratings chosen by the first few people to climb a route. This book lists the historic or published ratings, not the author’s personal ratings. Older ratings are generally lower than newer ones: a route rated 3 1. Introduction class 4 in the 1930s might be rated 5.0–5.4 today. Also, California ratings are usually one-half to one class lower than Colorado ones: a class 3 route in California would usually be rated hard class 3 or class 4 in Colorado. The ratings mostly reflect the climbing difficulty of the hardest move, not per- ceived exposure, rock quality, length, or average difficulty, all of which can substan- tially affect the overall challenge of the route. Walking across the room, walking across town, and walking along the edge of your roof are all class 1, but feel substantially different. Where relevant, I have qualified the YDS ratings to reflect this variation, e.g. “sustained class 3,”, “exposed class 4,” or “loose class 3.” Comfort with exposure – “standing near cliffs” – varies greatly from person to person. Most people start out uneasy and become more comfortable with practice, while a few find it exhilarating, and others never accept it. Fear of exposure is partly rational – if you fall, you will die – and partly irrational – you almost certainly won’t fall. Understanding how this balance plays out in your and your partners’ minds will avoid many unpleasant situations.