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Norman Clyde Papers, 1912-Circa 2002, Bulk 1923-1972

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Norman Clyde Papers, 1912-Circa 2002, Bulk 1923-1972 http://oac.cdlib.org/findaid/ark:/13030/tf996nb44j No online items Finding Aid to the Norman Clyde Papers, 1912-circa 2002, bulk 1923-1972 Finding Aid written by Ria Sachs and Mary Millman; revised by Marjorie Bryer The Bancroft Library University of California, Berkeley Berkeley, California, 94720-6000 Phone: (510) 642-6481 Fax: (510) 642-7589 Email: [email protected] URL: http://bancroft.berkeley.edu/ © 2007 The Regents of the University of California. All rights reserved. Finding Aid to the Norman Clyde BANC MSS 79/33 c 1 Papers, 1912-circa 2002, bulk 1923-1972 Finding Aid to the Norman Clyde Papers, 1912-circa 2002, bulk 1923-1972 Collection Number: BANC MSS 79/33 c The Bancroft Library University of California, Berkeley Berkeley, California Finding Aid Written By: Ria Sachs and Mary Millman; revised by Marjorie Bryer Date Completed: April 2007 © 2007 The Regents of the University of California. All rights reserved. Collection Summary Collection Title: Norman Clyde papers Date (inclusive): 1912-circa 2002, Date (bulk): bulk 1923-1972 Collection Number: BANC MSS 79/33 c Creators : Clyde, Norman, 1885-1972. Extent: Number of containers: 5 cartons, 1 boxLinear feet: 5.42 Repository: The Bancroft Library University of California, Berkeley Berkeley, California, 94720-6000 Phone: (510) 642-6481 Fax: (510) 642-7589 Email: [email protected] URL: http://bancroft.berkeley.edu/ Abstract: The Norman Clyde Papers document the climbing adventures of, and offer insights into the life of, one of California's greatest mountaineers, and one of the foremost chroniclers of the Sierra Nevada range. They also help to preserve the history of mountaineering in the High Sierra. The bulk of the papers consist of various drafts of Clyde's narratives about the Sierra Nevada range, as well as mountains in Arizona, the Canadian Rockies, Idaho, Montana, Southern California, Washington, Wyoming, and numerous national parks. Clyde's writings include stories and articles about entire ranges, specific peaks, climbs, first ascents, rescues, wildlife, fishing, skiing, and mountaincraft. Many of his stories have been published, but most of those in this collection have not. Clyde's contemporaries in the climbing world recognized the contributions he made to mountaineering and his place in the history of the exploration of the High Sierra. Other significant materials in the collection reflect this recognition. There is a draft manuscript of, and correspondence and notes related to, a Sierra Club book project dedicated to Clyde's life and writings. Though Clyde spent much of his time alone, he had a great many friends and admirers. His personal and professional correspondence records his communications with them, as well as with editors, environmental organizations, and climbing clubs. Some of these friends and colleagues, including Hervey Vogé, Bruce Kilgore, Jules Eichorn, and Fred Fertig, interviewed Clyde in December, 1967 and January, 1968. Transcripts of these interviews, in which Clyde recounts his 50-plus years of climbing history, are also in the collection. Materials dated after Clyde's death in 1972 were compiled by others. Languages Represented: Collection materials are in English Physical Location: Many of the Bancroft Library collections are stored offsite and advance notice may be required for use. For current information on the location of these materials, please consult the Library's online catalog. Access Collection is open for research. Publication Rights All requests to reproduce, publish, quote from or otherwise use collection materials must be submitted in writing to the Head of Public Services, The Bancroft Library, University of California, Berkeley, 94270-6000. Consent is given on behalf of Finding Aid to the Norman Clyde BANC MSS 79/33 c 2 Papers, 1912-circa 2002, bulk 1923-1972 The Bancroft Library as the owner of the physical items and is not intended to include or imply permission from the copyright owner. Such permission must be obtained from the copyright owner. See: http://bancroft.berkeley.edu/reference/permissions.html . Restrictions also apply to digital representations of the original materials. Use of digital files is restricted to research and educational purposes. Preferred Citation [Identification of item], Norman Clyde Papers, BANC MSS 79/33 c, The Bancroft Library, University of California, Berkeley. Alternate Forms Available There are no alternate forms of this collection. Related Collections Sierra Club Reminiscences III, 1910s-1970s: oral history transcript (BANC MSS 88/189 cz) Mountaineering [sound recording] : interviews with Norman Clyde, 1967 Dec. 20-1968 Jan. 7 (Phonotape 1182:1-6 A,B) [Portrait of mountaineer Norman Clyde] (BANC PIC 19xx.363-B) Indexing Terms The following terms have been used to index the description of this collection in the library's online public access catalog. Clyde, Norman, 1885-1972--Archives Sierra Club Mountaineering--Sierra Nevada (Calif. and Nev.) Mountaineering--Sierra Nevada (Calif. and Nev.)--Photographs Mountaineers National parks and reserves--California Canadian Rockies (B.C. and Alta.) Glacier National Park (Mont.) Sierra Nevada (Calif. and Nev.) Sierra Nevada (Calif. and Nev.)--Pictorial works Sequoia National Park (Calif.) Yosemite National Park (Calif.) Manuscripts for publication Acquisition Information The Norman Clyde Papers were given to The Bancroft Library by Mary Millman and Dave Bohn in 1978. Additions were made in June 2003. Accruals No additions are expected. System of Arrangement Arranged to the folder level. Processing Information Preliminary processing by Ria Sachs under the supervision of Mary Millman, 1977. Additions processed by Marjorie Bryer in 2007. Biographical Information Norman Asa Clyde was born on April 8, 1885, in Philadelphia, the son of Charles and Isabel "Belle" Clyde. He was the oldest of their nine children. The family moved to Ohio when he was three. His father, an itinerant Presbyterian clergyman, rarely stayed at one parsonage for more than a year. In 1897, when Clyde was 12, the family moved to Canada, near Ottawa. There Clyde became an expert hunter and fisherman. His father educated him at home, schooling him in Greek and Latin. After his father's death in 1901, his mother moved the family back to Western Pennsylvania. There Clyde attended Geneva College, graduating with a degree in classics in 1909. After graduation, Clyde moved west, working as a teacher in rural areas, including small schools in North Dakota and Utah. In 1911, in order to advance his career as a teacher, he enrolled in the University of California, Berkeley. Clyde spent two years at Berkeley, but frustrated at the thought of writing a thesis no one would ever read, he left school without completing his master's degree. Finding Aid to the Norman Clyde BANC MSS 79/33 c 3 Papers, 1912-circa 2002, bulk 1923-1972 Details of the next dozen years of Clyde's life are sketchy. He taught at small schools in Northern and Central California, in Mt. Shasta, Weaverville, and near Stockton, and spent his summers and weekends climbing in the mountains. In 1914, Clyde joined the Sierra Club, led their annual outing, and made his first of 50 ascents of Mt. Whitney. Clyde married Winifred "Winnie" May Bolster, a registered nurse who worked in Oakland, in 1915. She died of tuberculosis in 1919. Her death appears to have affected Clyde greatly, and he did not like to talk about it. Indeed, few people knew he was married, as Clyde did not often speak about this period of his life. Shortly after Winnie's death, Clyde moved to the Eastern Sierra and became absorbed in mountain climbing. In 1924, Clyde became principal of the Valley High School in Independence, California, in the Owens Valley, at the foot of Mt. Williamson. He spent every weekend making first ascents of new peaks and discovering new routes up others. Residents of the valley were not impressed by Clyde's climbing feats; they wanted their principal to act like a respectable teacher and spend more time in the community. In 1928, after Clyde fired warning shots to deter local youths from vandalizing school property on Halloween, enraged parents demanded that charges be brought against him. Instead, Clyde resigned and, unencumbered by a regular job, devoted himself fully to exploring and writing about the High Sierra. He spent his summers hiking in the backcountry and guiding parties to the summits of challenging peaks; he spent his winters as the caretaker of lodges in such places as Yosemite and Sequoia National Parks. Clyde began writing prolifically, and published the first version of his famous Close Ups of the High Sierra in 1928. He supplemented his meager income by lecturing and selling stories and photographs to various publications. Clyde made first ascents of 100 peaks in the High Sierra and Montana between the years 1914 and 1939. In fact, he managed more first ascents in the Sierra than Clarence King, John Muir, and William Brewer combined. Clyde set a world's record for climbing 36 peaks in as many days in Glacier National Park in August and September of 1923; 11 of the peaks were considered first ascents. He gained a reputation for rescuing or recovering the bodies of lost climbers, and finding missing airplanes, and stories about his exploits appeared in numerous publications. In 1939, Geneva College, awarded him an honorary doctorate in recognition of his writings about the mountains. Clyde was known for carrying such huge backpacks that some people called him "the pack that walked like a man." In his later years, Clyde lived in a ranch house, without electricity or plumbing, on Baker Creek, near Big Pine, California. He continued to lead private climbing parties into the High Sierra and act as a guide on Sierra Base Camp trips well into his 70s. He was still leading nature walks at 83. Clyde died on December 23, 1972. Several friends, including mountaineers Smoke Blanchard and his son, Bob, Jules Eichorn, and Nort Benner, scattered Clyde's ashes on a peak that he could see from his house, one that eventually bore his name--the Norman Clyde Peak on the Palisade Crest.
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