The Good, the Bands, and the Ugly
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Basel Watches and ‘Apassionata’ Badminton Swiss Open Liestal’s Fiery “Chienbäse” Waits for the Return of Trots Into Brings Fast-Paced Parade Heats up BASELWORLD St. Jakobshalle Excitement the Night! Volume 2 Issue 6 CHF5/ 4 MAGAZINE A Guide to Discovering Basel for the Expat Community MARCH 2014 FASCINATING FASNACHT THE GOOD, THE BANDS, AND THE UGLY. EVENTS T R A D I T I O N S LIVING O U T I N G S SPECIAL FEATURE LETTER FROM THE EDITOR Dear Readers, The month of March is dominated by what many Baslers consider the most MAGAZINE important event of the year—Fasnacht! Participants have been preparing The Sights and Sounds of Fasnacht MARCH 2014 Volume 2 • Issue 6 for this 3-day carnival for nearly a year. Each clique or group has been busy choosing a subject or event to comment on; creating their masks and For 72 hours this March, Basel turns into an entirely different city. You may be TABLE OF CONTENTS costumes; rhyming their verses; artfully designing, building, and painting woken by shrill music in the middle of the night, businesses may be closed, public their large, portable lanterns; and rehearsing their songs to perfection. In transportation on certain routes is suspended temporarily, and masked people roam fact, in the weeks leading up to Fasnacht, you can see (and hear) the cliques Special Feature: Fasnacht 2014 3-5 in various parks and forests around the city practicing their songs while on the streets at all times of the day and night. This is the Basel Fasnacht, one of the the move. most important and characteristic events in Basel’s annual calendar. Last year we Events in Basel: March 2014 6-8 If you want to make the most of your Fasnacht experience, start out with already told you about the origins of Fasnacht as the “last hurrah” before the begin- a trip to Liestal on Sunday night to witness their fiery “Chienbäse” parade. ning of lent; the pagan influences shaping the current customs; and the tradition of It is certainly one of the oddest traditions and you need to see it to believe it! Then, a few short hours later, drag yourself out of bed in the wee hours the Morgenstreich, the parade during the early morning hours that starts off the Fun Outings: Beyond Basel 10-11 of Monday morning to be in town for the beginning of the Morgenstreich celebrations. (For more information, see the February 2013 issue in the archives on when the clock strikes 4. Also, be sure to watch the main parade at least our website, www.baselfamilymagazine.com). This year, we want to focus on the once and take a stroll through the inner city on Tuesday night to experi- Sports and Recreation 12-13 ence the concerts and lantern exhibit and bask in the most interesting of groups that help shape the Fasnacht and the costumes they wear. atmospheres. Center Calendar: March 2014 14-15 The end of the month brings us Basel’s economically most important event—BASELWORLD. The world’s biggest watch and jewelry show, it will bring over 122,000 visitors to our humble city. Expect heavy traffic coming into town, hotel boats, crowds of people, packed night clubs, and waiting Cliques and Guggemusiken Traditional Fasnacht Figures Waggis: This traditional figure is supposed Workshops, Tours, and Education 16-18 lines at most bars and restaurants. to represent an Alsatian farmer. It is tradi- You will notice two main types of groups You will see all kinds of sometimes rath- tionally dressed in a blue shirt, white pants, Looking for a different type of excitement? Consider taking in some match- er outlandish costumes worn by mem- es at the Badminton Swiss Open 2014. Or if you prefer participating in a during the Fasnacht parades (Cortèges) red neckerchief, wooden shoes, and a mask Holiday Camps for Kids 19 bers of Cliques and Guggemusiken and sport, perhaps you would enjoy partaking in the Euro Dance Festival or with yellow hair made from bast fibers on Monday and Wednesday—the Cliques many of these are linked to the group’s snowshoeing on a mountain by the light of the moon. As always, families and a large, red nose. However, you’ll see and the Guggemusiken. chosen Sujet. In addition to these, there Markets and Fairs in Basel 20-21 can choose from a number of concerts, shows, ballet, opera, workshops, many variations on this theme, although and tours. Check out the list of Easter Camps and sign your kids up early. are a few traditional costumes that you’ll The Cliques are associations of like-mind- the simple clothes, bast-fiber hair, and gro- Adults also have their pick of a variety of shows, theater, musicals, and con- commonly see, albeit in a wide range of ed people who work together all year to tesquely enlarged nose remain. The Waggis Did You Know? 22-23 certs as well as whisky, vodka, and wine tastings. Learn about kult.kino, a variations: are known for their shenanigans, and while very special group of movie houses that cater to the true cineaste and now appear as a group during Fasnacht and they often throw candy, fruit, or flowers to have a program for expats. comment in a satirical way on a topic, Alte Tante (Old Aunt): This figure repre- or “Sujet,” of public interest during the sents an old lady from the 19th century, the spectators, they also may dump a whole Entertainment: A Night on the Town 24-26 Wishing you a great start to spring and don’t forget past year. During their appearances, the wearing an elegant two-piece suit with bag of confetti on them (especially young to change your clocks forward for the start of women) and stuff it in their clothes. daylight savings time on March 30! Cliques are led by some costumed mem- a long skirt, a mask Get Your Tickets Now! Back Page bers who clear the way and who may also (“Larve”) with a Christine pull the Clique’s lantern or other items sharp nose and gray Christine Pesold that hint at their chosen Sujet. This group or white hair, and a Mark Your Calendar: April 2014 Back Page Editor-in-Chief is followed by the pipers and then the hat, which often is [email protected] drummers, who are led by a drum ma- ornately decorated. jor. Then the rest of the group follows in Basel Family Magazine Contacts: COVER: One of the most fascinating aspects of the Basel their costumes that help illustrate their Dummpeter (Trumpeter): This figure typically wears a costume reminiscent of Editor-in-Chief: Fasnacht is that EVERYBODY can get involved – from babies to Sujet, sometimes with floats and other paraphernalia. The oldest Cliques have the early 19th century, made from fancy Christine Pesold senior citizens. Infants are put in a little costume and carried been in existence since around 1900, and fabrics with ruffles on his shirt, knee- along in a sling, whereas toddlers are warmly bundled up and pulled Advertising & Subscription today there are hundreds of Cliques and length pants, and white stockings, and a Manager / Editor: along the streets in a wagon. School-age children pull their own smaller groups in Basel. mask with a slightly Susanne Hiller little wagons and enjoy pelting spectators with confetti. Teens silly expression and Art Director: and young adults begin to ride along on the big floats or expend The Guggemusiken are music groups that a white wig with a Jon Hoefer their energy in one of the Guggemusik bands. Adults from all play a very characteristic, highly rhyth- braid and curls on mic, and somewhat off-key type of mu- There really is no limit to the imagina- walks of life enjoy hiding behind their masks and pretending the sides; he usually For more information about sic driven mainly by brass instruments, carries a toy trumpet tion used to create the hundreds of unique subscribing or advertising – to be someone else for a few days. And many distinguished- pipes, and drums. In contrast to the with him. costumes you will see over the three days please contact us: looking older adults still don their costumes and masks for those Cliques, they focus on the music and not of Fasnacht! And it is particularly fun to go three crazy days. on a Sujet. The first Guggemusiken also Harlekin: This figure is adapted from the [email protected] through town in the early afternoons, before www.baselfamilymagazine.com photo credit: cover: © jon hoefer were formed around 1900, although sim- Italian Commedia de l’Arte and typically the parades begin (particularly on the Tues- ilar groups existed earlier. In 1962, it was is dressed in a shirt with a ruffled collar, BASEL FAMILY MAGAZINE © Copyright 2014. All rights reserved. It is our goal to provide valuable, timely information to the expat community of Basel. The decided that the Guggemusiken should wide pants, white day, with its more relaxed schedule), when opinions expressed in the articles in this magazine are those of the contributing authors and do not reflect those of other members of the editorial staff and of not participate in the Morgenstreich; socks, and a mask many of the participants just meet and chat any organizations or agencies distributing this magazine. Though we make every attempt to provide accurate information, we cannot be held responsible however, they are a main feature of the with a usually white with their masks off. You’ll be surprised at if any event is cancelled, postponed, or modified.