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Searching Queen's Cowboys Searching for the Queen’s Cowboys Travels in South Africa Filming a documentary on Strathcona’s Horse and the Anglo-Boer War Tony Maxwell Copyright © 2010 Tony Maxwell All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopy, recording, or any information storage and retrieval system, without permission in writing from the publisher. Library and Archives Canada Cataloguing in Publication Maxwell, Tony, 1943- Searching for the Queen’s cowboys : travels in South Africa filming a documentary on Strathcona’s Horse and the Anglo-Boer War / Tony Maxwell. Includes bibliographical references. ISBN 978-0-9683256-1-2 1. Maxwell, Tony, 1943- --Travel--South Africa. 2. South Africa-- Description and travel. 3. South African War, 1899-1902. 4. South Africa-- History, Military. I. Title. DT1738.M38 2009 916.80466 C2009-905986-X Book design: BookDesign.ca Printed in USA Published in 2009 by BRATONMAX P O Box 146, Red Deer, Alberta Canada T4N 5E7 www.bratonmax.com 2 SEARCHING FOR THE QUEEN’S COWBOYS Contents 1 Lord Strathcona’s Cowboys . 15 2 London . 37 3 Africa . 49 4 Pretoria . 68 5 Mpumalanga . 94 6 Lydenburg . 114 7 Politics and Wars . 140 8 Kruger’s Legacy . 159 9 Wolvespruit . 188 10 Isandlwana . 212 11 Rorke’s Drift . 240 12 Spion Kop . 252 13 The Hunt For De Wet . 272 14 Magersfontein . 291 15 The City of Gold . 315 Searching for the Queen’s Cowboys 3 For my parents Thelma and Frank Maxwell 4 SEARCHING FOR THE QUEEN’S COWBOYS Acknowledgements Travel has always been a very important part of my life. The excitement of discovering new and unfamiliar places often coupled with the kindness and hospitality extended by old friends and com- plete strangers are experiences not to be missed. There are so many people who have encouraged and helped Brad and I in our quest for the Queen’s Cowboys that it’s hard to know where to start. First and foremost we are grateful to Darryl Crowell of the Museum of the Regiments, Brian Tulty of Lord Strathcona’s Horse (Royal Canadians) for their advice and assistance. To our four front-cover troopers, Jesse Bargholz, Mike King, Ray Scherger and Shawn Thirwell of the Mounted Forces Association of Canada our thanks for your help. We appreciate the assistance of Stuart Neil, the Queen’s assistant press secretary, in securing permission to film on the west terrace of Buckingham Palace. In South Africa we owe a special thank you to Ernst Marais, Johan Wolfhardt, Herman Labuschagne, Jeff Davidson and Peter and Kathy Steyn for their friendship and support. We owe a debt of gratitude to Marion and Alastair Moir of Cottonwood Tours and our Boer commandos, Willie and Ryno Roeloffze, Stephan and Gerrie van der Merwe and Noel Jones; Rita and Andre Britz of the Val Hotel and Johan Hattingh of the Museum of the Boer Republics. Also, to the dozens of South Africans we met on the Internet and to those we met in person who did not wish to be mentioned, we are grateful for your help and companionship when both were needed. My personal thanks to Carl Hahn for his editorial skills and Jim Bisakowski for his book designing expertise. Finally to my wife Wendy and my son Brad for their almost unlimited patience and understanding in my search for the Queen’s Cowboys. Searching for the Queen’s Cowboys 5 6 SEARCHING FOR THE QUEEN’S COWBOYS INTRODUCTION When my son Brad and I went to South Africa to film our doc- umentary “The Queen’s Cowboys,” I had in mind to write an arti- cle about our experiences searching for the battlefields and graves associated with Strathcona’s Horse and the Anglo-Boer War. But it turned out to be a lot more complicated than I expected. To understand why the Strathconas went to South Africa in the first place, it was necessary to explain what the South African or Anglo-Boer War was all about and why it involved Canada. Then, to understand the reasons for the war, it was necessary to explain in some detail the history of South Africa and so on. South Africa is a complex society. Many, if not all, of its prob- lems are rooted not only in its past but also in its most recent his- tory. During our travels we met a number of people who in one way or another, were able to shed some light on these problems. At the request of some, I have changed their names and situations to preserve their privacy so they were able to speak freely. After we returned from South Africa, a friend asked what I thought was the biggest problem facing that country. I immediately thought of the most commonly stated problems: AIDS specifically, disease in general, “Big Men” and government corruption, racial tension, climate change, poverty, to name just a few. But on reflec- tion I decided that the biggest long-term problem that faced, not only South Africa but the whole of the continent, is population explosion. During our travels around South Africa we were aston- ished, dismayed and sometimes alarmed at the size of the shanty towns that had sprung up outside even the smallest communi- ties. Euphemistically called high-density, low-income areas, these cardboard, plastic and corrugated iron slums, which are home to Searching for the Queen’s Cowboys 7 hundreds of thousands of people, lack even the most basic services and are subject to high levels of crime and the despair of unemploy- ment and poverty. And I could be talking about any community, not only in South Africa, but anywhere on the African continent. The obvious solution is for governments to encourage a mea- sure of birth control before the situation gets totally out of control (if it hasn’t already). It is discouraging to see aid agencies making heroic efforts to feed starving people in places that are already unable to feed the people even in good times, without making some effort to slow down population growth. Given the looming certainty of climate change and the decreasing levels of food pro- duction in southern Africa, this is a problem that needs immediate attention. I am reminded of the Malthusian prediction that popu- lations cannot grow beyond their, ultimately limited, capacity to feed themselves. Jacob Zuma, leader of the African National Congress (ANC), is now South Africa’s third black president. His checkered political career, which was all but written off when he faced allegations of rape and corruption, was saved when the charges were dropped. He has, unfortunately, many of the characteristics common to a number of Africa’s “Big Men.” He has no formal education, he spent 10 years imprisoned on Robben Island and is well known for his dancing at political rallies and, regrettably, for his favourite song, Lethu Umshini Wami (Bring Me My Machine-gun). Obviously, the majority of voters see him as a refreshing change after the law- yerly Mandela and the overseas-educated Mbeki. For the sake of South Africa, I hope they are right. History was always a hands-on experience for me growing up in South Africa, a country with a violent and turbulent past. (Some have unkindly said that even today, nothing much has changed.) This meant that no matter where one lived, it would not be far 8 SEARCHING FOR THE QUEEN’S COWBOYS from some battlefield where the issue of the day was settled with arrows or assegais, musket balls or modern cartridges. It’s probably true that one should not dwell in the past, but as the heroes and villains of history have shaped the world we live in, we should at least pay some attention to their stories. After all, it is their memo- ries that we have to interpret if we are to have any idea of what may lie in our future. I was born in a small town outside Johannesburg in what was then the province of the Transvaal, and grew up during the ’50s and ’60s in a white, English-speaking, middle-class family. Our neighbourhood was not very different from the average middle- class suburb in any North American city of reasonable size. Our homes were mostly single-level, ranch-style dwellings, often with beautiful, well-tended gardens and the occasional swimming pool. But, unlike most North American middle-class homes, we had bur- glar bars on every window and alarm systems on all outside doors. Despite the odd burglary, it was usually safe to walk about our neighbourhood during the day or night, and my parents had no qualms about my little sister and me walking or cycling to school every day. In the northern suburbs of Johannesburg, where I lived for most of my teenage years, violent crimes such as armed rob- bery and murder were rare and usually made front-page headlines. However, just a few miles away in the black townships, robbery and murder were daily events and almost never made the newspa- pers. The reason our white islands of safety could exist in a country that had one of the most violent societies on earth, was largely the government’s apartheid policy. Among the many laws introduced to enforce apartheid (the Government preferred to call it sepa- rate development) was one which restricted the free movement of blacks around the country. This law, which prevented large num- bers of unemployed blacks moving from the rural areas to the cities, Searching for the Queen’s Cowboys 9 where they would likely turn to crime to survive, kept us whites safe in our homes and suburbs.
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