South Africa
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© Lonely Planet Publications 399 SOUTH AFRICA S o u t h A f r i c a It’s no wonder that South Africa draws more visitors than anywhere else in sub-Saharan Africa. World-class wildlife watching, cosmopolitan cities, stunning natural panoramas and vibrant cultures make the country appealing to almost every taste and budget. Within the space of a day, you can journey from vineyard-clad hillsides in the Western Cape to the vast open spaces of the Kalahari, from Cape Town’s waterfront chic to isolated Zulu villages, from elephant spotting in Kruger National Park to the pounding surf and sublime seascapes of the coast. And, unlike many other areas of the continent, it’s possible to do all this while still enjoying Western amenities and, for the most part, getting by in English. Yet, while it’s easy to travel around South Africa focusing on the glitz and first-world infrastructure, you’ll only get below the surface by seeking out the country’s other face – most visible in the sprawling townships where far too many people live stalked by the shadows of hunger, poverty and one of the highest HIV/AIDS infection rates in the world. Behind its incredible natural beauty, South Africa is the stage for the daily drama of one of the world’s greatest experiments in racial harmony. The intensity of this drama surrounds you wherever you go, and will likely be one of the most fascinating and challenging aspects of your travels. And, there’s never been a better time to experience this than now, as the colours of the ‘rainbow nation’ finally begin to fuse. FAST FACTS Area: 1,233,404 sq km Capital: Pretoria (administrative), Bloemfon- tein (judicial) and Cape Town (legislative) Country code: %27 Famous for: Nelson Mandela, ending apart- heid, Zululand, cosmopolitan Cape Town, Big Five wildlife Languages: English, Afrikaans, Ndebele, Sepedi, Setswana, Sotho, Swati, Tsonga, Tswana, Tshivenda, Venda, Xhosa, Xitsonga, Zulu Money: Rand Phrases: Dumela (hello; Sotho/Swati, Zulu), howzit (hello; English), sala hantle/sala kahle (goodbye; Sotho/Swati, Zulu) Population: 46.9 million SOUTH AFRICA ITINERARIES 400 HIGHLIGHTS Pass up Head captivating hikes. array of National Park mountains the Drakensberg the dramaticvalleysandpeaksof where headsouthintoKwaZulu-Natal, Kruger, From fromJohannesburg. easily reached or of things at agoodtaste tight, get If timeisreally foratleast severalyou captivated days. life reserves andintheneighbouring here National Park safari showpiece, most convenient headeasttoSouthAfrica’s a gateway, magnificent Amphitheatre. RoyalNatal NationalPark’s the peaksof Two weeks magical Karoo. butthesuninvastand thing behind Off thebeaten track reserves.isolated and hiddenwaterfalls tacular beaches, Wild Coast Drakensberg mountainrange gruntinghippos. the soundsof campandfallasleep to bushveld mote Kruger NationalPark wineries. area’s the jestic setting atippletourof andtake Cape Town PLANET INDEX LONELY HOW MUCH? Roasted mealie(corn) Roasted T-shirt Souvenir ofBlackLabelbeer Can 1L ofbottledwater 1L ofpetrol Surfboard person entryper Kruger NationalPark Kilo ofmangoes perday hire Car Bottle ofwine SOUTH AFRICA••Highlights Pilanesberg NationalPark ( p522 ) to the Lesotho border for ) to the Lesotho border for p522 ( US$16 ( p491 ) Bum aroundthespec- p491 ( ( p415 ) Marvel atthecity’sma- p415 ( Using Using ( p532 ) will undoubtedly hold ) willundoubtedly p532 ( ( p528). 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(JuneWinter toSeptember) iscooler, drier those inthenorthernhemisphere. of verse there- totheseasons,attention are which on whatyouplantodo,it’sworthpaying However, depending comfortably anytime. canbevisited the Africancontinent,which on climates themosttemperate with oneof bynature South Africahasbeen favoured &WHENTOGO CLIMATE a taste of township life in life township of a taste thecountrytoget the throbbingheartof to returning viewsbefore breathtaking Summer (late November to March) brings toMarch) November Summer (late N2 along the Garden Route, near N2 alongtheGardenRoute, yourwaysouth,joiningthe ). Make p446 ( ernmost point;or standing atAfrica’ssouth- the thrillof the season isright; to alongthewayinclude detours Possible ( p448), South Africa’s to through theLittleKaroo ostrich 62 ), andthenviathescenicRoute p442 capital. ( two in theWinelands,withanight or valleys of wonderful cityandheadtothefertile tain ) andatriptothetopof p415 ( One month nesburg fortheflight home. nesburg Durban ormakingyourwaytoJohan- Imfolozi Park in ing adayorsoonthebeach striking Park Park coast include sort town.Recommendedstopsalongthe tenberg Bay ), withitssylvansetting, and p453 ( Mkhuze Game Reserve enjoyingtheparks,including possible timeas or continuenorthforasmuch luland north intotheheartof ). Head p495 ( Hermanus ( p419 ), tear yourself awayfromthis ), tear p419 ( ( p466 ) and p466 ( ( p481). Move eastwards through the ( p509 ) orthe p509 ( Stellenbosch Wild Coast After a few daysin afew After ( p456 ), a relaxed beachside re- beachside ), arelaxed p456 ( ( p444 ) for whale watching, if ) forwhalewatching, p444 ( ( p512 ) before returning to returning ) before p512 ( Tsitsikamma CoastalNational ( p438 ) or p438 ( ( p491), before spend- Cape Agulhas Addo Elephant National Addo ElephantNational De HoopNature Reserve ( p515) and Drakensberg lonelyplanet.com Soweto Franschhoek Table Moun- Table ( p446 ) for p446 ( Oudtshoorn Cape Town Hluhluwe- ( p544 ). p544 ( ( p516) Durban Knysna Plet- Zu- lonelyplanet.com ὈὈ 0 200 km SOUTH AFRICA 0 120 miles Central Kalahari Messina GR Limpopo Provinces River Makhado Thohoyandou (Louis Trichardt) BOTSWANA NORTHERN PROVINCE Martin's Drift Limpopo Kruger NP River MPUMALANGA Khutse Pietersburg M O Z A M B I Q U E NORTH-WEST Ellisras Phalaborwa GAUTENG B O T S W A N A GR (Polokwane) AFRICA SOUTH PROVINCE Inhambane NAMIBIA Blyde River FREE ὈὈὈὈ Ὀ KWAZULU- GABORONE Canyon NR STATE NATAL N 1 River NORTHERN s Graskop Tlokweng Gate-Kopfontein t CAPE Kgalagadi Kanye n Sabie fa TP Sun City li Lobatse O Nelspruit Komatipoort Xai-Xai EASTERN Zeerust Rustenburg CAPE INDIAN Ramatlhabama PRETORIA N WESTERN Mmabatho 4 CAPE OCEAN Tshabong Mafikeng Johannesburg Middelburg Lichtenburg Soweto MAPUTO Kalahari Bethal To Windhoek Ermelo MBABANE Desert Potchefstroom Heidelberg Keetmanshoop (400km) Rietfontein S W A Z I L A N D Ὀ Vryburg Klerksdorp Ὀ Vereeniging Standerton Klein-Menasse Ithala Hotazel N N Piet Retief GR Pongola 14 1 Vrede Volksrust Bloemhof Golela Noenieput Kuruman Louwsburg N A M I B I A er Kroonstad Newcastle iv Mkuze R Welkom Madadeni l Bohlakong Vryheid Greater St Lucia Wetland Park Nakop a Harrismith a Virginia Bethlehem Upington V Dundee Hluhluwe-Umfolozi NP Ariamsvlei Vaalbos Drakens Ladysmith Ulundi Mtubatuba Noordoewer NP Kimberley Ficksburg Royal Bergville Orange River Thaba Natal NP Empangeni St Lucia Alexander Estcourt 'Nchu Ladybrand Giant's b Richards Bay Bay Vioolsdrif BLOEMFONTEIN e N r Ὀ Castle g 10 McDougall's Bay O MASERU (3314m) Prieska ra Pietermaritzburg n N River Springbok N ge Sani 1 n L E S O T H O Durban 12 R o i d Pass ve e Amanzimtoti r al C Kokstad N De Aar 7 Aliwal North Port Shepstone Carnarvon N 2 Bitterfontein N 6 Silaka Mkambati NR NR Middelburg Great Mthatha Calvinia Port St Johns Karoo Queenstown NP Hluleka NR Olifants River Kei Coffee Bay Graaff-Reinet Cradock Sada A T L A N T I C Cederberg River Beaufort West Mountain Fort Hogsback Dwesa NR O C E A N St Helena WA Zebra NP Beaufort Bay King William's Town Somerset East Cintsa N Alice Storms Addo Grahamstown Saldanha 1 River Elephant NP East London Ceres Oudtshoorn Tsitsikamma Uitenhage I N D I A N Paarl Worcester Coastal NP Port Alfred Montagu LEGEND Swellendam George Port Elizabeth O C E A N CAPE TOWN Stellenbosch Jeffrey's Bay NP National Park N Knysna Plettenberg NR Nature Reserve Hermanus 2 Mossel Bay Cape St Francis Cape of De Hoop Bay TP Transfrontier Park 401 Good Hope False Bredasdorp NR WA Wilderness Area Bay Cape Agulhas Ὀ AFRICA SOUTH 402 SOUTH AFRICA •• History lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com SOUTH AFRICA •• History 403 SOUTH AFRICA coast, conditions are sultry and tropical, with The Voortrekkers Meet the Zulu The Boers were disturbed by the foreigners, Without an enemy army to face, just com- high humidity. The Great Trek’s first halt was at Thaba ‘Nchu, both black and white, who poured in follow- mandos who could instantly become innoc- More of a consideration than weather are near present-day Bloemfontein, where a re- ing the discovery and were angry that their uous farmers, the British decided to exact school holidays. From mid-December to Janu- public was established. Following disagree- impoverished republics were missing out on reprisals. If a railway line was blown up, the SOUTH AFRICA ary, waves of vacation-hungry South Africans ments among their leadership, the various the money the mines brought in. nearest farmhouse was destroyed; if a shot was stream out of the cities, with visitors