399 © Lonely Planet Publications Planet Lonely © sala hantle/sala kahle sala hantle/sala kahle 27 (hello; Sotho/Swati, Zulu), (hello; Sotho/Swati, Zulu), %

Nelson Mandela, ending apart- 46.9 million English, , Ndebele, Dumela

Pretoria (administrative), Bloemfon- (administrative), Rand (hello; English), 1,233,404 sq km Country code: for: Famous Town, cosmopolitan Cape heid, Zululand, wildlife Big Five Languages: Sepedi, Setswana, Sotho, Swati, Tsonga, Xhosa, Xitsonga, Venda, Tshivenda, Tswana, Zulu Money: Phrases: howzit (goodbye; Sotho/Swati, Zulu) Population: Area: Capital: (judicial)tein Town (legislative) and Cape

      FAST FACTS FACTS FAST  

Yet, while it’s easy to travel around South Africa focusing on the glitz and first-world focusing on the glitz and first-world South Africa around while it’s easy to travel Yet, It’s no wonder that South Africa draws more visitors than anywhere else in sub-Saharan anywhere visitors than more draws that South Africa It’s no wonder cities, stunning natural panoramas and watching, cosmopolitan World-class wildlife Africa. and budget. Within the taste make almost every the country appealing to vibrant cultures to the vast Cape journey from vineyard-clad hillsides in the Western space of a day, you can open spaces of the Kalahari, villages, from waterfront Town’s Zulu from Cape isolated chic to to the pounding surf and sublime seascapes of National Park elephant spotting in Kruger the continent, it’s possible to do all this while of the coast. And, unlike many other areas amenities and, for the most part,still enjoying Western getting by in English. you’ll only get below the surfaceinfrastructure, by seeking – out the country’s other face stalked by the far too many people live townships where most visible in the sprawling in the world. rates highest HIV/AIDS infection and one of the shadows of hunger, poverty of one of is the stage for the daily drama beauty, South Africa natural Behind its incredible of this drama surrounds intensity experiments in racial harmony. The the world’s greatest aspects you go, and will likely be one of the most fascinating and challenging you wherever to experience this than now, as the time been a better never And, there’s of your travels. to fuse. colours of the ‘rainbow nation’ finally begin S o u t h A f r i c a SOUTH AFRICA

ITINERARIES 400 HIGHLIGHTS HIGHLIGHTS      

Pass array of captivating hikes. Head up National Park the Drakensberg mountains where thedramaticvalleys andpeaksof Kruger, headsouthintoKwaZulu-Natal, easily reached fromJohannesburg. From or at things of If timeisreally get tight, agoodtaste days. you captivated foratleastseveral life reserves here andin the neighbouring National Park most convenient showpiece, safari a gateway, headeasttoSouthAfrica’s magnificent Amphitheatre. the peaksof NationalPark’s RoyalNatal Two weeks magical Karoo. thing behind butthesuninvastand track thebeaten Off isolated reserves. beaches,tacular hiddenwaterfalls and Wild Coast mountainrange Drakensberg the soundsof gruntinghippos. mote bushveld to campandfallasleep Kruger NationalPark area’s wineries. andtake atippletourofjestic setting the Town Cape

     LONELY INDEX PLANET      MUCH? HOW

Roasted mealie(corn) Souvenir T-shirt Can ofBlackLabelbeer 1L ofbottledwater 1L ofpetrol Surfboard person Kruger NationalPark entryper Kilo ofmangoes Car hire perday Bottle ofwine SOUTH AFRICA •• Highlights SOUTH AFRICA••Highlights Pilanesberg NationalPark Pilanesberg ( p522 border for) totheLesotho US$16 ( p491 ) Bumaroundthespec- ( p415 atthecity’sma- ) Marvel Using ( p532 ) willundoubtedly hold 58) Te emn wildlife teeming The (p528). US$200 ( p518 ) provide anendless Madikwe Game Reserve Game Madikwe US$0.70 US$9

US$40 Johannesburg US$0.80 US$8 48) ev every- Leave (p488) ( p528 inare-) Stay US$0.80

US$0.30 US$0.95 59) both (p569),

56) Hike ( p516) private wild- private 50) as (p540) Royal Natal (p569) Kruger Sani comfortably hot days. AlongtheIndian Ocean comfortably rain, mists and–inthelowveld – someun- occasional frosts. highveld, are nights often crispandclear,with best timeforwildlife watching. In theeastern permanent water sources,winter isalsothe animals congregate aroundrivers andother vegetation andthirsty islessdense, Because and idealforhikingoutdoor pursuits. iscooler,drier toSeptember) Winter (June verse of inthenorthernhemisphere. those whichattention are to theseasons, there- on whatyouplantodo,it’sworthpaying anytime.comfortably depending However, the Africancontinent,which canbevisited with oneof themosttemperate climates on favouredSouth Africahasbeen bynature CLIMATE &WHENTO GO



a taste of township life in the throbbingheartof thecountrytoget breathtaking viewsbefore returning to alongtheGardenRoute, near ( p446 ). Make yourwaysouth,joiningthe ernmost point;or the thrillof atAfrica’ssouth- standing isright; the season to capital. ostrich Possible detours alongthewayinclude Africa’s South ( p448), theLittleKaroothrough to ( p442 ), andthenviathescenicRoute 62 two in valleys of or theWinelands,withanight wonderful cityandheadtothefertile tain ( p415 ) andatriptothetopof One month nesburg home. fortheflight Durban ormakingyourwaytoJohan- Park Imfolozi ing adayorsoonthebeach in striking Park Park coast include sort town.Recommendedstopsalongthe Bay tenberg ( p453 and ), withitssylvansetting, Mkhuze Game Reserve Game Mkhuze possible enjoyingtheparks,including or continuenorthforasmuch timeas luland ( p495 ). Head northintotheheartof Summer (late November toMarch) brings Hermanus ( p419 ), tear yourself awayfromthis ( p466 ) and 41) Mv eswrs hog the through eastwards Move ( p481). ( p509 ) or the Stellenbosch Wild Coast After afew daysin ( p456 ), arelaxed beachside re- ( p444 ) forwhalewatching, if ( p512 ) before returning to Tsitsikamma CoastalNational Tsitsikamma ( p438 ) or 41) bfr spend- before ( p491), Cape Agulhas Cape Addo ElephantNational De Hoop Nature Reserve De HoopNature 55) and (p515 ) Drakensberg lonelyplanet.com Soweto Franschhoek Table Moun- ( p446 ) for Oudtshoorn Cape Hluhluwe- ( p544 ). (p516) Durban Knysna Plet- Zu-

lonelyplanet.com ὈὈ 0 200 km SOUTH AFRICA 0 120 miles Central Kalahari Messina GR Limpopo Provinces River Makhado Thohoyandou NORTHERN (Louis Trichardt) BOTSWANA Martin's Drift PROVINCE Kruger Limpopo River MPUMALANGA NP NORTH-WEST Khutse Pietersburg M O Z A M B I Q U E GAUTENG Ellisras Phalaborwa PROVINCE B O T S W A N A GR (Polokwane) SOUTH AFRICA NAMIBIA Inhambane FREE KWAZULU- Blyde River STATE ὈὈὈὈ Ὀ NATAL GABORONE Canyon NR NORTHERN CAPE River s Graskop Tlokweng Gate-Kopfontein t Kanye n EASTERN Kgalagadi a Sabie Sun City if CAPE TP Lobatse l WESTERN Zeerust O Nelspruit Komatipoort Xai-Xai CAPE Ramatlhabama Rustenburg N INDIAN PRETORIA1 OCEAN Mmabatho Tshabong Mafikeng Johannesburg Middelburg Lichtenburg Soweto MAPUTO Kalahari Bethal N To Windhoek Ermelo MBABANE Desert Potchefstroom Heidelberg 4 Keetmanshoop (400km) Rietfontein S W A Z I L A N D Ὀ Vryburg Klerksdorp Ὀ Vereeniging Standerton Klein-Menasse Ithala Hotazel Piet Retief GR Pongola Vrede Volksrust Bloemhof Golela Noenieput Kuruman Louwsburg N A M I B I A N er Kroonstad Newcastle iv N Mkuze 14 R Welkom 1 Madadeni l Bohlakong Vryheid Greater St Lucia Wetland Park Nakop a Harrismith a Virginia Bethlehem Upington V Dundee Hluhluwe-Umfolozi NP Ariamsvlei Vaalbos Drakens Ladysmith Ulundi Mtubatuba Noordoewer NP Kimberley Ficksburg Royal Bergville Orange River Thaba Natal NP Empangeni St Lucia Alexander Estcourt 'Nchu Ladybrand Giant's b Richards Bay Bay Vioolsdrif BLOEMFONTEIN e

r Ὀ Castle g N (3314m) McDougall's Bay 10 O MASERU Prieska ra Pietermaritzburg n River Springbok ge Sani N n L E S O T H O Durban N R o 12 i 1 d Pass ve e Amanzimtoti r al C Kokstad N De Aar 7 Aliwal North N Port Shepstone Carnarvon 2 Bitterfontein N 6 Silaka Mkambati NR NR Middelburg Great Mthatha Calvinia Port St Johns Karoo Queenstown NP Hluleka NR Olifants River Kei Coffee Bay Graaff-Reinet Cradock Sada A T L A N T I C Cederberg River Beaufort West Mountain Fort Hogsback Dwesa NR O C E A N St Helena WA Zebra NP N Beaufort King William's Town Bay 1 Somerset East Alice Cintsa Storms Addo Grahamstown Saldanha River Elephant NP East London Ceres Oudtshoorn Tsitsikamma Uitenhage I N D I A N Paarl WorcesterN Coastal NP Port Alfred Montagu2 LEGEND Swellendam George Port Elizabeth O C E A N CAPE TOWN Stellenbosch Jeffrey's Bay NP National Park Knysna Plettenberg NR Nature Reserve Hermanus Mossel Bay Cape St Francis Cape of De Hoop Bay TP Transfrontier Park 401 Good Hope False Bredasdorp NR WA Wilderness Area Bay Cape Agulhas Ὀ AFRICA SOUTH SOUTH AFRICA as theblacks. territory orarrived atmuch time the same the Voortrekkers moved intounoccupied ment gave totheAfrikanermyths rise that ofnormal state Thismistaken assess- affairs. of refugees of –wasthe andtales brutality pasturedeserted lands,disorganised bands mistakenly thatwhattheyfound– believed (forced migration;see p41 ) and theBoers was the1833actbanningslavery. the reason given bymanytrekkers forleaving buildingforsometime,but ernment hadbeen grazing lands. uninhabited –oratleastpoorlydefended – Trek. Reportsfromearlytreks toldof vast, a decadeof migrationknownastheGreat theOrange Rivertheir farmsandcrossed in trekkers (Fore-trekkers, pioneers) abandoned the mid-1830sincreasing numbers of Voor- off intotheinterior of insearch freedom. From Colony trekkedwith BritishruleintheCape From the1820s,groupsof dissatisfied Boers Trek Great The South Africabeganinthe19thcentury. Widespreadthe Cape. of colonialsettlement numbers fromthe17thcentury,mostlyin European powers here begansettling insmall lished inSouthAfrica. Competingcolonial peopleswereBantu-speaking wellestab- Southern Africa. Bythe3rdcenturyAD, whentheSanpeoplefirst settled 40,000 BC South Africa’shistoryextends backtoaround HISTORY with wildflowers. of carpeted vastexpanses NorthernCape see everywhere. Springisalsothebesttimeto autumn (AprilandMay) are idealalmost months offer somegreat festivals. double. summer Ontheplusside,high is heavily booked, andpricescanmore than modation intouristareas andnationalparks to mid-January, followedbyEaster. Accom- crush. Theabsolute peakisfromChristmas Europe andNorthAmericaaddingtothe stream out of thecities,withvisitors from ary, waves of vacation-hungrySouthAfricans school holidays.Frommid-DecembertoJanu- humidity. high coast, conditionsare sultryandtropical,with 402 Spring (mid-September toNovember)Spring (mid-September and The Great Trek coincidedwiththe Tensions andthegov- theBoers between More of aconsiderationthanweather are SOUTH AFRICA •• History SOUTH AFRICA••History difaqane

strongest forcesinthearea, wasn’tatallsure British government, which commandedthe the Orange Free andtheTransvaal.The State contendersbut soontheonlyserious were short-lived republics Boer Several sprangup Boer Republics The renamed theDayof Reconciliation. the Dayof theVowuntil1994,whenitwas the 16Decembervictorywascelebrated as long-suspected of stamp divineapproval, and expansionreally didhave Boer that it seemed of andvastlysuperiorweaponry) goodtactics causing theNcome’swaters torunred. Zuluswere thousand killed,reportedlyseveral were Boers injured, Several in Natal. while came inDecember1838attheNcomeRiver revenge Theculmination bytheBoers. attack This massacre triggered others, aswella promptly massacred bythesuspiciousZulu. Retief paidavisittoKingDingaan,andwas Zulu territory, theVoortrekker leaderPiet a republicand establish there. As thiswas crossing theDrakensberg totry into Natal Voortrekker groupssplitapart,withmost ments amongtheirleadership, thevarious Followingdisagree- public wasestablished. near present-day where Bloemfontein, are- The Great Trek’s first halt wasatThaba‘Nchu, The theZulu Meet Voortrekkers quickly and annexed thearea. steppednear Kimberley in1869.Britain in diamondswere states, into stable discovered wereindependent Boers, beginningtosettle with theirthinlyspread population of fiercely barter. thattherepublics, Justwhenitseemed pended entirely oncattle. Mosttradewasby always precarious andtheireconomiesde- short, sharpcampaignin1864. theissue witha Republic, 1883–1900)settled –SouthAfrican rikaansche Republiek;ZAR until (president of theZuid-Af- and breakaway republics threatening civilwar lems were leaders mostlyinternal, withseveral TheTransvaalRepublic’sprob-Basotholand. without. Finally,in1871,theBritishannexed sometimes sometimes withBritishassistance, people– at warwiththepowerfulBasotho outnewBritishcolonies. treaties orcarving protectinging Boers, blacks,enforcing British had noideawhethertheyshould berestrain- what itwanted. inAfricaoften Britishofficials After such a‘miraculous’ victory(theresult The financialpositionof therepublics was The Orange Free wasintermittently State lonelyplanet.com the money the mines brought in. the moneyminesbrought impoverished republics were missingouton ing thediscovery andwere angrythattheir both blackandwhite, whopoured infollow- lonelyplanet.com proposition forthem. an occupying armywould beanexpensive the Britishcouldbe defeated, butmaintaining the countryside. There wasnopossibilitythat raiders deniedthe Britishenemycontrolof it entered bitter Commando phase. asecond, last of themajor towns, hadsurrendered. way rapidlyandby5June1900Pretoria, the gavethe Free TheBoers andtheCape. State fromtheZAR, men againstthe80,000Boers Roberts andKitchener ledanarmyof 450,000 untilreinforcementsdisarray arrived. Lords wereBoers nopushover, theBritish fell into swiftly, tookhimon.Shocked tofindthatthe rior numbers of experiencedtroopswouldwin republic tobeatwar. weren’t, hewouldconsiderthe heasserted, borders bewithdrawnby11October–ifthey ing thatBritishtroopsmassingontheZAR the Witwatersrand. Kruger refused, demand- begivenrights tothe60,000foreign whites on paid taxes butwere notallowedtovote. the republic fromthegoldrush.Theforeigners governmentKruger’s ZAR diditsbesttoisolate suspicionofcities, andadeep foreign ways, eigners), blackandwhite. ofsuddenly hosttothousands growth of was Johannesburg the ZAR itself, nesburg) in1886andtheensuingexplosive in theWitwatersrand (thearea aroundJohan- lic regained itsindependenceastheZAR. ofBattle Majuba inearly 1881, andtherepub- victoryatthe it began,withacrushing Boer ence, broke out.Itwasover almostassoon known byAfrikaners astheWarof Independ- into rebellion andtheFirst War, Anglo-Boer After theannexation,Transvaaldrifted Wars Anglo-Boer its independence. was annexationandin1877theTransvaallost found intheTransvaal.Thesolution,asusual, Southern Africa,especiallyasgoldhadbeen the existence of independentrepublics in The Boers wereThe Boers disturbedbytheforeigners, It seemed thatthewarwas overIt seemed butinstead The British,confidentthattheirvastlysupe- With littleexperienceof towns, noneof about Meanwhile, becamenervous Britain In 1899theBritishdemandedthatvoting With thediscovery of ahuge reef of gold SOUTHAFRICA••History uitlanders (for- known as theSouthAfrican Party, orSAP),a 1910. The SouthAfricanNational Party (soon official language until 1925. guages –Afrikaanswasnotrecognised asthe from theUnion. (nowZimbabwe) were excluded and Rhodesia (nowBotswana), Swaziland Bechuanaland Territories of (nowLesotho), Basotholand 31 May Commission 1910.TheBritish High The Unionof on SouthAfricawasestablished Union ofSouthAfrica towards unionbeganalmostimmediately. governmentsentative in1906–7,andmoves symbol of Afrikanernationhood. as the backlash tothis,Afrikaanscamebeseen to compete forjobswithblacks.Partly asa their language. Worst of all,theywere forced find aworlddominated bytheEnglish and political groups. laid thefoundationsfornewnontribal,black Walter andAbdullah Rubusana Abdurahman and Transvaal,menlike John Jabavu, ing withtheIndianpopulationsof theNatal Mohandas (later Mahatma) Gandhiwaswork- the combinedpopulationof theprovinces. spite thefactthattheyconstituted about 80%of considered, otherthanaspotential labour,de- to worktogether. Thenonwhites were scarcely andBritish fortheBoers rialism. Itwasessential mixture of andinsensitive impe- appeasement The British response after theirvictorywasa Rule British British colonies. republicswas signedandtheBoer became andneglectinthecamps. disease 26,000 people,mainlychildren, haddiedof a Britishinvention. Bytheendof thewar collected andtaken toconcentrationcamps– The womenandchildren fromthefarmswere the cropsdestroyedandanimalskilled. fired wasburntdown, fromafarm,thehouse nearest wasdestroyed;ifashot was farmhouse reprisals. Ifarailwaylinewasblownup,the uous farmers, theBritishdecidedtoexact mandos who could instantly becomeinnoc- mandos whocouldinstantly English andDutch lan- becametheofficial The formerrepublics were given repre- The first election was held in September The first electionwas heldinSeptember Hard-up floodedintothecitiesto Boers Political awareness wasgrowing,however. On 31May 1902thePeace of Vereeniging Without anenemyarmytoface,justcom- volkstaal (people’slanguage) andasa

403 SOUTH AFRICA AFRICA SOUTH SOUTH AFRICA followers. Theyformedthe PurifiedNational as hisdeputy. with Hertzog astheprimeminister andSmuts formed acoalition (orfusiongovernment), so farapartpoliticallyand,in1933, thetwo issue forthefirst time. gevaar segregation. Inthe1929election rikaner interests, independence andracial with anagenda thatincludedpromoting Af- In 1924theNPunderHertzog cametopower, Fusion of Nations. League part of SouthAfricaunder ‘mandate’ fromthe After the war, SouthWestAfricabecamea rebellion –more than300menwere killed. side prompted thelastmajor violent Afrikaner Namibia). Thisinvolvement ontheBritish SouthWestAfrica(now ing withGerman withtheresponsibilityand saddled of deal- Empire, wasdrawnintowarwithGermany orintothecities. crowded reserves, from farmsandforcedintoincreasingly over- area. of Thousands squatters were evicted rent or becomeasharecropper outsidethis 70% of thepopulation)wasallowed tobuy, pancy. Noblack(andblacksmadeupover 7.5% of SouthAfrica’sland forblackoccu- as the AfricanNationalCongress (ANC). Native Congress, butfrom1923itwasknown blacks. ItwasinitiallycalledtheSouthAfrican national democraticorganisation torepresent were tightened. laws, restricting blackfreedom of movement, andpass were barred service; frommilitary skilled jobs forwhites; were blacks reserved became illegalforblackworkers tostrike; rage of repressive It legislationwaspassed. the NationalParty (NP). Hefrom Britain. andhissupporters formed for thetwowhite groupsandindependence interests, development advocatingseparate most divisive issues, championing Afrikaner union’s first primeminister. Smuts, wontheelectionandBothabecame Janeral LouisBothaandthebrilliantGeneral diverse coalitionof groups underGen- Boer 404 In 1913 the Natives Land Act set aside Actset In 1913theNatives Land formeda Seme In 1912,PixleykaIsaka Soon after abar- theunionwasestablished Fusion was rejected byDrDFMalan andhis In 1914SouthAfrica,asapartof theBritish In reality, theNPand SAPwere not Hertzog Barry General someof raised the SOUTH AFRICA •• History SOUTH AFRICA••History (blackthreat) wasmade thedominant swaart- from remaining visiting intowns,oreven tity documentsatalltimesandwere prohibited ened andblackswere compelledtocarryiden- benches. Thepasslawswere furtherstrength- schoolstoilets, separate park andseparate separate beaches,separate buses, separate ties Actcreated publicfacilities– separate areas Ameni- waspromulgated. TheSeparate ofenforcing thephysicalseparation residential was classifiedbyrace. TheGroupAreas Act wasmadeillegal.Everyracial sex individual first democraticelectionin1994. uptothe toral boundariesitheldpowerright being apart).Withthehelpof creative elec- of apartheid(literally, establishing of thestate The NPwonthe1948electiononaplatform Apartheid with Hitler’sdoctrineof amaster race. sympathiesandanobvious affinity German organisation with strong a popularmilitaristic of theOx-wagon,(Sentinels orOB) became was amemberof theBroederbond. primeministerto 1994every andpresident influential forcebehindtheparty.From1948 kaner brotherhood,becametheextraordinarily asecret ultra-nationalisticAfri- Broederbond, force inAfrikanerpoliticallife. TheAfrikaner Party, which quicklybecamethedominant about the nature of thewhite regime. cial line– there could nolonger be anydoubts acru- hadnowcrossed the world,struggle 160. Topeoplein South Africaandtherest of opened fire, killing69people andwounding in rounded apolicestation Sharpeville police the hated passlaws.Whendemonstrators sur- (PAC) calledfor nationwideprotests against a visionof anonracialdemocraticstate. ANC, adopted aFreedom out Charter setting tions, includingtheIndianCongress andthe near Johannesburg, anumberof organisa- the 1950s,withoccasionalviolentclashes. continuedintermittently These throughout of publicdisobedience andprotest marches. open resistance intheformof strikes, acts In 1949theANCforfirst timeadvocated Black Action giveneven religious justification. the Dutch Reformed churches, apartheid was them, withoutspecificpermission. Thanksto On 21March 1960thePan AfricanCongress In June1955,atacongress heldatKliptown Mixed marriages were prohibited andinter- theOssewa-BrandwagAt thefarright, lonelyplanet.com detain peopleindefinitelydetain withouttrial.Prime forceswereand thesecurity given to theright Republic of SouthAfricacameintoexistence. approval tothechange andinMay 1961the lic. Aslimmajority of white voters gave their whether thecountryshouldbecomearepub- Minister Verwoerd announcedareferendum on lonelyplanet.com state inAfrica. Increasing numbers of Western South Africa becamethelast white-controlled minister of anindependent Zimbabwe,and In 1980RobertMugabe waselected prime Conflict International government. to theirruleandthatof theSouthAfrican tocrush allresistancethey thenproceeded tors accepted anominalindependence,and 1976and1981thecollabora- kei. Between Transkei, Bophuthatswana,Venda andCis- permission. their Homelandwithoutapassandexplicit result move asblackscouldnoteven beyond home to75%of thepopulation. of landarea thecountry’stotal wastobethe ing blackpopulation.Undertheplan,13% of foodfortheburgeon- producingsufficient and noindustrywere therefore incapable groups. Inreality, theyhadlittleinfrastructure on thetraditionallandsof particular tribal states self-governing to becomeself-sufficient, lands thatwere, accordingtothepropaganda, black Homelandsandawhite SouthAfrica. tinued topursue dream theinsane of separate followed in1978byPWBotha. Bothmencon- byBJVorster,and wassucceeded whowas 1966 (there wasapparently nopoliticalmotive) Verwoerd wasassassinated inparliament Homelands The tolifetion andsentenced imprisonment. rested, charged withfomentingviolentrevolu- of otherANCandcommunist leaders, wasar- 1963 NelsonMandela, alongwithanumber ally knownasMK)andPoqo(Pure). InJuly Umkonto WeSizwe(Spearof theNation;usu- armed wingsof theirorganisations, respectively PAC beganacampaignof the sabotage through more blackactivistswere arrested, theANCand theorganisation inexile.abroad toestablish As underground ANCandOliver Tambo went Soon after, thePAC andANCwere banned Power proved irresistible tothe leaders of and widespreadIntense wasthe suffering The planwastorestrict blackstoHome- Nelson Mandela becametheleaderof the SOUTHAFRICA••History 2 February 1990DeKlerk announcedthat he At hisopening address totheparliament on Reform FW DeKlerk. Inlate 1989Bothawasreplacedcollapsed. by over government loansandtherand’svalue began tobite. Foreign banksrefused toroll the rest of theworld,andeconomicsanctions backlash. Hisreforms alsofailedtoimpress to mollifyblackprotesters andcreated awhite were tortured. withouttrial.Thousands detained had been strictly censored and,by1988,30,000people in forceforthenextfive years. Themediawas declared astateof emergency thatwastostay next twoyears until,in1985,thegovernment Blacks were given noroleatall. dians were given atoken roleingovernment. creased andcoloureds (mixed race)andIn- the powers of president thestate were in- politicised. apartheid andtheblackcommunitieswere against themselves toarevolutionary struggle a generation of youngblacks committed istrate foundthatnoonewastoblame. Pretoria. inquest,themag- Atthesubsequent treatment forthree daysandfinallydiedin intoacoma–hewentwithoutmedical lapsed policebeathimuntilhe Unidentified security 1977. and blackpride,waskilledinSeptember stressed forpsychological liberation theneed Black Consciousnessmovement, which took more than1000lives. rests andriotsthat,over thenext 12 months, nationwide demonstrations,strikes, mass ar- fire onastudentmarch,roundof starting oppressor) inblackschools. Policeopened of Afrikaans(considered thelanguage of the resentative Councilprotests againsttheuse On 16June1976the Soweto Students’Rep- Soweto Uprising and blackanarchy. as abastionbesieged bycommunism,atheism governing elite increasingly thecountry saw Malawi andSwaziland).SouthAfrica’swhite ments of blackAfrica(withtheexceptionof PAC received direct supportfromthegovern- andtheANC sanctions countries imposed Botha repealed thepasslaws,butthisfailed Violent protest builtupsteadily over the After changes totheconstitutionin1983, again– thesame South Africawasnever Steve Biko, thecharismatic leaderof the

405 SOUTH AFRICA AFRICA SOUTH SOUTH AFRICA Desmond Tutu:‘Without forgiveness there heid era underthedictum of Archbishop which worked crimes of toexpose theapart- & Reconciliation Commission(1994–99), After theelections,focusturned tothe Truth History Rewriting to guarantee itrepresentation incabinet. National Party won20.4% of thevote, enough ANC woninallbuttwoof theprovinces. The decided theprovincial governments, andthe deciding thenationalgovernment, theelection overrule theinterim constitution.As well as the 66.7%which wouldhave enableditto Bless Africa),wassung. the newanthem,‘NkosiSikelele Afrika’(God and Then thenewrainbowflagwasraised them) wassungandtheoldflaglowered. April 1994,‘DieStem’ (theoldnationalan- on26–27Across thecountryatmidnight Elections Free interim government of nationalunity. both sidesaccepted afive-year, post-election wasreachednegotiations. Acompromise and wing parties,theNationalParty tohurry needed joined theminanunlikely alliance. (literally People’s Homeland), State; aBoer whites, whowantedRight-wing a federal structure forthenewconstitution. Inkatha Freedom Party, which demandeda parties, includingthepredominantly Zulu the NPandANC,excludedsmaller government of outtheprocess. dragging wascomplexandtheANCsuspected the tails at sometime. thrashingoutthede- However, determined thatfree electionswouldtake place smoothly butboththeNPandANCwere tion extending toallgroups. politicalrights transitional government andanewconstitu- negotiations ontheformationof amultiracial began a DemocraticSouthAfrica(Codesa) repealed. virtually alltheoldapartheidregulations were after 27years injail.During1990and1991 On 11February hereleased Nelson Mandela, Klerk undertooktorelease politicalprisoners. Mediaised. restrictions were lifted, andDe ANC, PAC andCommunistParty were legal- would repeal discriminatorylawsandthatthe 406 Now, withwhite supportdriftingtotheright- The ANCwon62.7%of thevote, lessthan bynowanegotiationbetween The talks, negotiationsdidnotproceed The Codesa On 21December1991theConvention for SOUTH AFRICA •• History SOUTH AFRICA••History Volkstaat

official opposition status totheDemocratic official oppositionstatus aswell (NNP), losttwo-thirdsof itsseats, alter theconstitution. the two-thirdsmajority thatwouldallowitto ofincreased toputthepartywithinoneseat ANC vote therefore might drop.Infact,it Mbeki, andthere wasspeculationthatthe over ANCleadership tohisdeputy,Thabo cratic elections.In1997Mandela hadhanded demo- In 1999,SouthAfricahelditssecond –RoundTwo Elections Free againstthem. evidence show), andithasproven togather difficult themselves (PWBothaisonefamousno- orders anddictatedthepolicieswillpresent criminalswhogavethe human-rights the unlikely that confessed theircrimes,itseems soldiers, policeand‘ordinary’citizenshave their guiltcouldbeproven. Yet, whilesome if mission wouldfacecriminalprosecution nottoappearbeforewho chose thecom- whomadeacleanbreastthose of it.Those confess theirguilt,withamnestyonoffer to tims totell theirstoriesandperpetrators to communities shattered bytheirpast. mission, offering somecatharsis topeopleand andinjusticewerebrutality heardbythecom- be noforgiveness’. Many storiesof horrific is nofuture, butwithoutconfession there can early days of hispresidency, Mbeki’seffective dominance indaily politicallife. at thehelm,andtoday theANCcontinuesits the ANCwith70% of thevotes, withMbeki 2004 nationalelectionswere wondecisively by by isolatingorcooptingoppositionparties. The hispolitical pre-eminenceitician, maintaining (Mandela), hehas proven ashrewd himself pol- the ANCgrassrootsthanbeloved ‘Madiba’ by While Mbekiisviewedwithfarlessaffection Today South Africa Minister.Home Affairs Buthelezi, heldontopowerasthenational some support,itsleader,ChiefMangosouthu voice of Zulunationalism.WhiletheIFPlost Inkatha Freedom Party (IFP),historicallythe behind theDPwasKwaZulu-Natal–based some middle-classblacks.Cominginjust tives disenchanted withtheNP,andfrom liberal whites, withnewforcefromconserva- Party of (DP)–traditionallyastronghold The NP,restyled astheNewNationalParty The commissionoperated byallowingvic- Yet Inthe allclearsailing. ithasnot been lonelyplanet.com African landowners andforeign investors. both South neighbouring Zimbabwe unnerved forced reclamation of white-owned farmsin and hisconspicuousfailure tocondemnthe denial of theAIDScrisisinvited globalcriticism, lonelyplanet.com and distrust stillrunhigh. ways of interacting remain, andsuspicions apartheid have dissolved, shadowsandold age. the formalracialdivisionsof Although during itsformative years isnowcoming of anduncertainty almostdailybrutality saw andageneration levels, that high ceptably atunac- ties. Violentcrimehasstabilised residences overlook crampedtin-roofed shan- water isascarcecommodity,andpalatial with squalidtownshipswhere cleandrinking Manicuredstatistics. suburbsrubshoulders intheworld,accordingtoWorldBank highest rich andpoorisvast–oneofgap between the ciety dividedbyclassratherthancolour. The today, andthenationisfastbecomingaso- are thetop concernsof mostSouthAfricans challenges. of withitawholenewset has alsobrought years of oppression andbloodshed. Freedom realities thatare thelegacyof apartheid’s long gle, thebeatistempered bythesoberingsocial and optimismthatfuelledtheliberationstrug- streets determination pulsate withthesame country isstillfindingitsway.Whilethe Africa’s first democraticelections,andthe More sinceSouth thanadecadehaspassed NationalPsyche The THE CULTURE a longwaytogo. widespread accesstotreatment –there isstill made –withmanyprovinces nowproviding with infection. Whilehuge strideshave been reducing the major socialstigma associated for treatment forallAIDSsufferers, andon ment tomake anti-retroviral drugsavailable and NGOs have onurging focused thegovern- Africa’s otherproblems. this scourge threatens allof toeclipse South more thaninanyothercountrytheworld– estimated 4.5millionSouthAfricansaffected – tion system and,especially,AIDS.Withan economic inequality,overhauling theeduca- is likely tofocusoverwhelmingly oncrime, that hewillstep downin2009–attention ing asuccessorforMbeki,whohasannounced Unemployment, crimeandHIV/ AIDS In thecomingyears –inadditiontochoos- In recent byAIDSactivists years, efforts SOUTHAFRICA••TheCulture tive after the next. their time attending thefuneralsof onerela- who are dyingare youth,and people spend tinely crowdedwith mourners. Many of those Africa, andonweekends, cemeteries are rou- of themostcommongatheringsinSouth ifyou’resurprised encouraged tojoinin. plenty of dancing.Ifyou’re passingby,don’tbe andfrequentlyevents, spillontothestreets with bars Weddings are knownas‘shebeens’. big People gatheronstreet corners andinlocal not uniformlyavailable. a luxuryinsomeareas, andhealthfacilitiesare tended families, cleandrinkingwater remains Tiny matchbox are houses home to large ex- South Africanswhoare stilllivinginpoverty. government andthefuture. are peppered withgloomypredictions aboutthe the passingof theoldregime, andconversations ofa lingering fear sense andlossconnected with and shops tokeep criminalsatbay,there’s still shopping centres. Guardspatrolthewalkways and spendtheirleisure timeinequallyfortified wealthy familieslive inheavily secured homes day life inSouthAfrica. Many middle-classand topresent aunifiedpictureIt’s difficult of every- Daily Life are of girlsbelow18years of age. 40% –of reported rapesandattempted rapes least 20%–someplacesthefigure to iscloser crime. Even more isthefactthatat saddening many womenare tooafraidtoreport the therealsay figures are much worse, because onaverage.60 seconds Somewomen’sgroups 26to every annually, andawomanisassaulted mately reported 52,000 cases tothepolice reported rape intheworld,withapproxi- that mostSouthAfricansfeel fortheirland. magnificence, andtheremarkably bond deep a backdroptoallthisisthestunningnatural rebuilding after profound itself change. As a rare chance toexperienceanationthatis find anywhere onthecontinent.Visitingis inspiring andhope-filled placesthatyou’ll refreshing placetovisit,andoneof themost emerging newSouthAfricaisauniqueand it inperspective. Theslowlyandoften fitfully a tourism destination, it’s important tokeep a tourismdestination,it’simportant and undermineSouthAfrica’sreputation as Life isvery different forthemillionsof Unfortunately, funeralsare becomingone Yet, townshiplife is vibrant andinformal. incidenceofSouth Africahasthehighest While crimecontinuestograbheadlines

407 SOUTH AFRICA AFRICA SOUTH SOUTH AFRICA haps, but disastrous toimplement.The clas- haps, but disastrous four major per- said, groups–easily enough attempted intooneof everyone tocategorise During the apartheid era,thegovernment Population &People also HIV-positive. orphaned grandchildren, manyof whomare toAIDSareoffspring alsolookingafter their parents whohave andlosttheiradult nursed became infected. Alarge numberof grand- children, whowere bornbefore theirparents fromanentire familyaresurvivors theeldest 30% of deaths nationwide).Sometimestheonly death inSouthAfrica(itaccountsforabout ofdied fromAIDS.AIDSistheleadingcause are nowheadedbychildren parents whose have 408 Thousands ofThousands inSouthAfrica households although hecontinuestobeactively involved inpoliticsasanelderstatesman. heal theoldwoundsandbuildanewSouthAfrica’. hefocusedthenation’sattentionelections, firmlyonthefuture, declaring,‘This isthetimeto president ofSouthAfrica. Inhismuch-quoted speech,‘Free atLast!’,madeafter winningthe1994 Nobel peaceprize withFWdeKlerkand,inthefirstfree thefollowingyear,waselected elections andbringanendtominorityrule. In1993,Mandelasharedprison) todemolishapartheid the secretlyFrom thisposition,hecontinuedthenegotiations(whichhadstarted whilehewasin thereby giving tacitapproval regime). ofthelegitimacy oftheapartheid rejected offers ofrelease inexchangeforrecognising (and theindependenceofTranskei in exchangeforfreedom, sayingthatonlyfree mencannegotiate. Amongotherthings,he he waslater released. Island prison,before eventually beingmoved totheVictor Verster prisonnearPaarl, fromwhere he wassentenced tolife 18yearsintheinfamousRobben imprisonment,andspentthenext ing revolution Trial.After inthewidelypublicisedRivonia brilliantlyarguing hisowndefence, weSizwe. In1964,Mandelawasbroughttostandtrialforsabotageandfoment-wing, Umkhonto oftheSharpevillemassacre,the wake Mandelaadvocated establishingitsunderground military disobedience campaigns. Various arrests anddetention followed.After theANCwasbannedin wide grassrootsmovement. Duringthe1950s,Mandelawasatforefront oftheANC’scivil League oftheAfrican NationalCongress toturntheANCintoanation- whichworked (ANC), firm. Meanwhile,in1944,togetherwithTambo andWalter Sisulu,MandelaformedtheYouth finished hislawdegree and,togetherwithOliver Tambo, openedSouthAfrica’s firstblacklaw Hare, MandelaheadedtoJo’burg,of Fort where hesoonbecameimmersedinpolitics. Healso for afuture positioninthetriballeadership.After attending schoolattheUniversity College Eastern Cape. Here hegrew uplivingatypicalrurallife, whileatthesametimebeinggroomed Mbashe River. Whenhewasyoungthefamilymoved toQunu,southofUmtatainwhatisnow all SouthAfricans atthemostcrucialoftimes. years ofincarcerationcallingforreconciliation andforgiveness, andwasabletorallytogether vilified bySouthAfrica’s rulingwhites andsentenced tolife imprisonment,heemerged from27 Mandelaiswithoutdoubtoneofthegloballeadersmillennium.Once Nelson Rolihlahla MOVERS &SHAKERS: NELSON MANDELA In 1997,Mandela–orMadiba,histraditionalXhosanamestepped downasANC president, On 18February 1990,Mandelawasreleased andin1991hewaselected president oftheANC. Throughout hisincarceration,Mandelarepeatedly refused tocompromisehispoliticalbeliefs Mandela, sonofaXhosachief,wasbornon18July1918inthesmallvillageMveso onthe SOUTH AFRICA••TheCulture Northern Cape ProvinceNorthern Cape and . moreeven subjective and less clearlydefined. categories are dozens of subgroupsthatare extent,tain andwithineach of thefourmajor terms inthischapter, theywork onlytoacer- Whilewe’ve these tinue tobeused. alsoused Yet theapartheid-eraclassificationterms con- is threatening toreplace racialdiscrimination. onwealth nowdiscrimination based although inequalityandintolerance. institutionalised could live andwork,becamethebasisfor were to regulate used where andhowpeople often contentious. They arbitraryandhighly also ‘black’),coloured, Asian orwhite –were called ‘native’ andsometimesnow and‘Bantu’, sifications –asAfrican(atvarioustimesalso Most of the‘coloured’ population lives in timesareToday, these fadingintohistory, lonelyplanet.com KwaZulu-Natal. KwaZulu-Natal. Most SouthAfricansof Indiandescentlive in political prisoners Indies. fromtheDutch East Colonyasslaves,the earlyCape others were manywere Although to standing. brought MuslimsareCape SouthAfricansof long lonelyplanet.com is the most densely populated and urbanised populated andurbanised is themostdensely includes Johannesburg andPretoria, (Jo’burg) and Britishdescentformdistinctsubgroups. issue of of Those centralimportance. Afrikaner culture thathasraised toan a self-awareness of thewhite peopleof Africahasgiven them theuniqueexperience ern countries.However, much todiffer fromotherWest- seem doesn’t the Venda (500,000). of whomare Tswana. Thesmallestgroupare and thevariousNorthernSothopeoples,most (sixmillion) million), followedbytheXhosa in them.Zulusare thelargest group(seven Homelands were andwholived (andstilllive) tohaveit’s stilluseful someideaof where the tors of thearea’s culturaldiversity, however cal meaningandwere realistic never indica- Cape. andEastern Western Cape descent are concentrated inKwaZulu-Natal, are theAfrikanerheartlands.People of British South Africa’sGauteng province, which EuropeancultureSuperficially, urbanised The Homelandsnolonger have anypoliti- Limpopo, MpumalangaandtheFree State this rightallthetime. on whetherapotential customer shouldbeallowedentryornot–andhowdifficultitistoget split-secondspected, andweacknowledgethenecessityfor establishmentstomake decisions lodges, andnotjustinSouthAfrica. ofexistingguestshastobere- The securityandcomfort to grantadmissionto. Suchrightsofadmissionpoliciesare common–notjustinbackpacker was offered aroom. lodges; atthree theblackreporter wastoldthelodgefull,whilehiswhite counterpart reporters –oneyoungblackman,white woman–were senttosixofthe city’s based criteria whentheyaccepted guests,whattheyfoundwasdisturbing. Twoundercover Cape Argus, South Africa, onethatnearlyeveryone issensitive about.WhenaCape Townnewspaper,the racial Because ofitsrecent historyofapartheid, discrimination remains aprominentissuein ABUSING RIGHTS OFADMISSION is taken into accountforupcoming guides.is taken discrimination toshare theirstories withbothlocal tourismauthorities andus–suchinformation found toberacially discriminatingagainstguests. Weurge alltravellers whoexperienceracial happen whetheryou justturnupatahostel anadvance booking. ormake a blackorcoloured SouthAfrican female, awhite SouthAfrican oranoverseas visitor. This could South African male,thechancesofyoubeingrefused entryare tobehigherthanifyou’re likely ifyou’rerights ofadmissionpoliciesare ablackorcoloured occasionallyabused.Inparticular, From the The lodgesthathadrefused entrytotheblackreporter defended theirrights todecidewhom Establishments rated bytheSouth African Grading Councilcanbestrippedoftheir starsif Cape Argus’s recently rananinvestigation lodgeswere intowhetherbackpacker usingrace- SOUTHAFRICA••Sport investigation senttoLonelyPlanetitwouldseemthat andotherreports Simon Richmond some othertownships.Victoryinthe1995 are nowplayedregularly inSowetoand colour divides,andbothrugbycricket programmes are acrossthe nurturingtalent of blackplayers andofficials. Development whites-only domain,despite theinclusion toshakestill struggling itsreputation asa thisisslowlychanging.crowds, although cricket andrugbyattractpredominately white The majority of footballfansare black,while cricket, sport. isthemostpopularspectator gry forglory.Football,followedbyrugbyand competition, thenationalteams are nowhun- decades of beingshut outof international South Africansare sportsfanatics,andafter SPORT jobs andcreating crime. theoutsidersAfricans whoaccuse of taking city, causingresentment amongsomeSouth illegal live inJo’burg’s impoverished inner economy. Many of whoare these considered take advantage of thecountry’spowerhouse continent make theirwaytoSouthAfrica any formalschooling. where upto 20%of adultshave received never Cape, Eastern the ruralandunderdeveloped province. Attheotherendof thescaleis South Africanrugby,inparticular,is Millions of immigrantsfromacross the

409 SOUTH AFRICA AFRICA SOUTH SOUTH AFRICA mon Tshekisho Plaatje, whowas alsothefirst were missionary-educated, including Solo- Many of thefirst blackSouth Africanwriters Literature the region, see p52 . For informationonmusicinSouthAfricaand ARTS fabric andlife of theregion. of Theuse have asignificantinfluenceonthecultural theirtraditionsandpractices group, although mostly inJo’burg. community isestimated tobearound100,000, TheJewishlowing, particularlyintheCape. decent. Islamhasasmallbutgrowingfol- most of thecountry’sHindusare of Indian have retained theirHindufaith,andtoday follow traditionalAfricanbeliefs. agnostic andasmallnumberof peoplewho ricans. Therest of the populationare atheist, combined make uplessthan6%of SouthAf- cial influence,Muslims,HindusandJews during festivals andinSeptember. atEaster Zion citynearPolokwaneinLimpopoProvince more members gatherat thanonemillionZCC an estimated fourmillionfollowers. Every year with flamboyant ZionChristianChurch (ZCC), across thecountry,and the considerablymore million peopleandmore than1200churches have anationalcongregation of more than3.5 (NG) orDutch ReformedChurches, which Gereformeerde tions includetheNederduitse selves asChristians.Major Southdenomina- Around 75%of SouthAfricansidentifythem- RELIGION amongtheirfans. status their pop-star the streets intheirexpensive cars, enjoying the townships,watch forfootballstars cruising you toagame,don’tmiss it.Andifyou’re in youareever inthecountry,ifalocalinvites ‘Kaizer Chiefs’teams againsteach other. Wher- Derby, pittingJo’burg’s ‘OrlandoPirates’ and World Cup.Thebiglocalmatch istheSoweto became asymbolof reconciliation. ebrating whilewearingaSpringboksjersey the image of President NelsonMandela cel- Rugby WorldCupwasaturningpoint,and 410 among those who practise Christianity. whopractise among those or traditionalmedicine,iswidespread, even African traditionalbelievers are asmall Up totwo-thirdsof South Africa’sIndians Despite theirdisproportionately large so- In 2010,SouthAfricawillhostthefootball SOUTH AFRICA •• Religion SOUTH AFRICA••Religion muti,

black friendwhodiedinpolicecustody.An- African whodiscovered thetruthabout a ofportrays thelonelystruggles awhite South Brink’s classicnovel, nence aspowerfulvoicesfortheopposition. bach andAndré Brinkbegantogainpromi- that Afrikanerwriters like Breyten Breyten- white rule. ofreleased in1981,anddepictsthecollapse but hermostfamousnovel, Gordimer beganpublishingherfirst books, journalists andauthors. launching thecareers of numerousprominent major anti-apartheidmouthpiece,eventually comment, androutinelydrew attention asa the focalpointof lively satire, fictionand psyche and theinhumanityof apartheid. the Phalarope, titles.AnotherPatonnised classicis still oneof thecountry’smostwidelyrecog- priest whocomestoJo’burg tofindhissonis this beautifullycrafted, of lyricaltale ablack try African. books published inEnglishbyablackSouth epic romance, of theANC.In1930,his Secretary-General recent book, to becomeanacclaimed novelist. Hismost and plays successful transition frompoetry lication of authors Mda,who –withthepub- isZakes the NobelPrizeforLiterature in2003. Booker won hissecond Prize. Coetzee Coetzee social realities –wasreleased in1999andwon brittle andcomplexlookatSouth African acclaim. Hisnovel two decadeslater thathegainedinternational itwasn’tuntil lished inthe1970s,although livingunderapartheid. for those asarallyingforce served MustWeep’, Baby work, includingthemoving ‘No epicpoem aveteranSerote, of theliberationstruggle.His includingMonganeWally ential blackpoets, of post-apartheidSouthAfrica. other Brinktitle, surrounding thenewSouth Africa. a somewhatsceptical lookattheoptimism In the1960s,future Nobellaureate Nadine During the1950s, In 1948,AlanPaton’s It wasalsointhe1960sandinto’70s One of themostprominentcontemporary wasalsopub- John Maxwell Coetzee (JM) influ- The 1970salsogave toseveral rise becameaninternational bestseller. Today, Ways of Dying The Whale Caller which looks attheAfrikaner Mhudi, The Rights of Desire, Disgrace Drum becameoneof thefirst A DryWhite Season, Cry, the Beloved Coun- in1995–madea magazinebecame July’s People, lonelyplanet.com –apowerful, (2005),takes Too Late is a tale isatale was

When Europeanpainters arrived, manyof faces andcave theregion. wallsthroughout San, wholefttheirdistinctive designsonrock South Africanarthaditsbeginningswiththe Arts Visual lonelyplanet.com five timesthesize of theUK –atthetipof the South Africaspreads over 1,233,404sqkm– Land The ENVIRONMENT ance spacesinthecountry(see p549 ). Theatre isstilloneof thebest-knownperform- become anall-racevenue. Today, theMarket notorious GroupAreas Acttoensure thatit performers defyingtheapartheidgovernment’s become theMarket Theatre, withpatronsand old ‘Indian’fruitmarket were converted to won rave reviews and international acclaim. Christ arrivinginapartheid-eraSouthAfrica, two-man show others hadtheirworkbanned.Theinnovative artistsweretertwined and several arrested and ’70s, theatre andpoliticswere inextricablyin- Jo’burg duringthe1950s.By1960sand troupesinPortElizabethand by establishing veloping andnurturingblacktheatricaltalent 1936 drama was Herbert Dhlomo,whowon acclaimforhis writers tohave hiswork published inEnglish townships. Oneof thefirst black SouthAfrican when theatre begantogainpopularityinthe gradually emerged, particularlyinthe1930s, performersgrown playwrights, anddirectors plays staged forlocalaudiences.Buthome- was dominated byEuropeanandAmerican During thecolonialera,SouthAfricantheatre &Dance Theatre today continuedinArtistsUndertheSun. up toprovide – foryoungtalent ashowcase the Artists’Market Association, which wasset 1960, hewasoneof thefoundingmembers of tion andschooling foryoungblackartists.In Mohl, beganspearheadingartisticinstruc- a Sophiatownneighbour, John Koenakeefe wasgainingprominence, time thatSekoto break thebarriers. through Atabout thesame wasoneof thefirst Sekoto to ades. Gerard centred focusdeveloped. withtime,amorealthough SouthAfrica– Africa forcolonialenthusiastsbackhome, their earlyworkscentred ondepictionsof In 1974,run-downbuildingsatJo’burg’s Athol Fugardplayedacrucialroleinde- Black artistswere sidelinedformanydec- The Girl Who Killed toSave SOUTHAFRICA••Environment Woza Albert!, portrayingJesus . try’s most endangered mammal.The wilddog p512 ), andtheriverine rabbitisthecoun- Reserve, p515 andHluhluwe-Imfolozi Park, Game includeMkhuze places tospotthese South Africa’sthreatened specieslist(good The blackrhinoisthehighest-profile entryon Endangered Species the best. spring (AugusttoNovember) andsummer the world’ssmallestraptors. their huge city-like nestswithpygmy falcons, here inabundance are weavers, whoshare vividly coloured sunbirdsandflamingos.Also its heaviest and flyingbird(Koribustard), cluding theworld’slargest bird(theostrich), time andbirdlife isabundant. turns beautifulshades of green aroundthis thelandscape often However, tosee. difficult with theanimalsmore widelydispersed and (late November toMarch) israinyandhot, waterholes, makingspottingeasier. Summer andanimalscongregatefoliage islessdense, at when toSeptember) cooler, drywinter (June on wildlife viewing. theboxedattractions. See text, p61 fortips herd animalsisoneof the region’s prime the chance tospotthebigcatsandgreat dozensof creatures,guaranteed tosee and visit tothecountry’sparksyouare almost than anywhere justashort Oneven else. elephant, leopardandlion–inSouthAfrica the BigFive buffalo, –theblackrhino, Cape You probablyhave abetter chance of seeing nificent groupingsof wildlife ontheplanet. South Africaishometooneof themostmag- ANIMALS Wildlife the eastern lowlands. where thehighveld plummetsdowntowards Drakensberg Escarpmentmarksthepoint the low-lyingKalahari Thedramatic Basin. plain (thelowveld), whiletothenorthwestis as thehighveld. Totheeastisanarrowcoastal teau averaging andknown 1500minheight, waters totheeast. the west,andupintowarmerIndianOcean in line, windingdowntheAtlanticseaboard a windsweptandstunninglybeautifulcoast- African continent.Onthree sides,it’sedged by Bird-watching isgoodyear-round, with South Africahostsover 800birdspecies,in- The besttimeforwildlife watching isthe Much of thecountryconsistsof avastpla-

411 SOUTH AFRICA AFRICA SOUTH SOUTH AFRICA Africa hasfew naturalforests. Theywere in South Africa. The moneyyouspend in efforts sources of revenue forconservation ing thatwildlife tourismisoneof the main aries orhikingareas. while others are primarilywildernesssanctu- of yourvisit.Themostfamousfeature wildlife, willlikely bethehighlight parks andreserves andcompletelysatisfyingly wild.Visiting the theparkgatesthrough –thewildlife is itself thefencesgenerally whenyoudrive onlysee neighbours. Yet, duetothe vastspaces,you’ll theanimalsandtheirhuman conflict between withinfences,closed intended tominimise facilities andreasonable prices.Many are en- scenery, impressive faunaandflora,excellent collectively spectacular boasting and reserves, to600nationalparks South Africahasclose National Parks&Reserves dotted with acaciasandthorntrees. KwaZulu-Natal. areas just inlandfromtheWildCoast,andin are found northeastof PortElizabeth inthe sberg andinMpumalanga. Subtropicalforests Draken-Humansdorp, intheKwaZulu-Natal George stripbetween and southern coastal remain. Temperate forests occuronthe extensive,never andtodayonlyremnants tourist attractions. rains, andare oneof major NorthernCape’s nuals, which flowerbrilliantlyafter thespring andan- (dominated byeuphorbiasandaloes), within itsborders. with oneof theworld’ssix floralkingdoms lilies. SouthAfricaisalsotheonlycountry olus, proteas, birdsof and African paradise elsewhere growwildhere, includinggladi- 1% of theearth’slandsurface. thecountryconstitutes although only total, Africa’s soil–anamazing10%of theworld’s 20,000plantspeciessproutfromSouth Over PLANTS considered threatened. vultureAfrican penguinandtheCape are ful wattledcraneandtheblueswallow.The also endangered, asistheroanantelope. withluckinHluhluwe-Imfolozi Park)(seen is 412 In contrasttothisfloralwealth,South In thedriernorthwest,there are succulents Endangered birdspeciesincludethegrace- When on safari, it’sworthremember-When onsafari, In thenorthare large areas of savanna, Dozens of flowers thatare domesticated SOUTH AFRICA••Environment in Kruger NationalPark (where thedaily parks, butifyou’re planningatleastfive days of asaving forsomeof thelessexpensive couple, US$241perfamily).Thisisn’tmuch into anyoneparkforUS$107(US$188per foreign touristswhich gives you10days’entry ferent versions of thecard,includingonefor fromSANParksWild Card . There are dif- One waytosave istoconsiderpurchasing a individualparklistingsfordetail. vary; see fee. Amounts a dailyentry(‘conservation’) Board www.capenature.org.za) include contacts around Mpumalanga. Otheruseful ecotourism andmanages hikingtrails several ecotourism.co.za) Komatiland Eco-Tourism areas withintheirboundaries. conservation bodiesthatoversee smaller have conservation www.kznwildlife.com) which are runby .sanparks.org) National (SAN)Parks Board are underthejurisdictionof the forgettable memories. visitors willbeabletocollecttheirownun- areas,into these thusensuringthatfuture back isploughed national parksandreserves under government protection, withthegoal land landowners tobringprivate conservation teamingernment hasstarted upwithprivate givenland hasbeen protected Thegov- status. totheanimals. closer their publicequivalents,youcan often get generally costsmorewhile entrytothese than Africa, MozambiqueandZimbabwe. than Portugal)acrosstheborders of South which spreads nearly100,000sqkm(larger ambitious Great LimpopoTransfrontierPark, NationalPark;Botswana’s Gemsbok andthe old Kalahari NationalPark Gemsbok with tier Park ( p121 ), combiningNorthernCape’s includeKgalagadiTransfron- borders. These areas acrossinternational joining conservation transfrontierparks rica isalsopartytoseveral www.wildinafrica.com. see clusters. onacquiringaWildCard, Fordetails Parks alsohascardstargeted atdifferent park entry fee isUS$16),it’sworthbuying.SAN In additiontoitsnationalparks,SouthAf- All SouthAfricannationalparkscharge The majority of thelarger wildlife parks In total, justunder7%ofIn total, South African Private alsoabound and wildlife reserves

( % Cape Nature Conservation Conservation Nature Cape 043-701 9600;www.ectb.co.z , except for those in KwaZulu-Natal, inKwaZulu-Natal, , exceptforthose oversees forest areas, promotes . Several otherprovinces also . Several and the KZN Wildlife KZN (

%

013-754 2724;www.komati ( % Eastern Cape Tourism Tourism Cape Eastern 012-428 9111;www lonelyplanet.com

( ( % % a ). South African South African 033-845 1000; 021-426 0723; lonelyplanet.com rural-urban settlement pattern –agrim legacy rural-urban settlement ment. The picture is complicated byadistorted lation growthwhile protecting theenviron- managing increasing andpopu- urbanisation Major challenges forthegovernment include of thepopulationlivingintownsandcities. withapproximatelymost urbanised, 60% cally diverse country. It’salsooneof Africa’s South Africais the world’sthirdmostbiologi- Environmental Issues landtoover 10%. conservation of ultimately increasing amountof thetotal Location Features Activities Activities Best Time Park Location Features TOP PARKS &RESERVES Page Kalma aeisiigDaesegecrmn; iig errud p516 p565 year-round year-round hiking species hiking p515 sandstonecliffs andoutcrops; spectacular year-round escarpment; Drakensberg awe-inspiring Highlands Golden Gate p513 State Free guidedwalks,bird Mar-Nov p466 uKhahlamba- and savanna,woodlands,swamp;rhinos year-round wildernesswalks, p512 wetlands,coastalgrasslands;elephants, p465 Game May-Oct Mkhuze Apr-Sep Greater StLucia wildernesswalks, lush,subtropicalvegetation, rollingsavanna; hiking p481 Hluhluwe-Imfolozi ravines,forests; Cape coast,cliffs, rivers, year-round KwaZulu-Natal walking vehiclesafaris, p464 hiking densebush,coastalgrasslands,forested Tsitsikamma Apr-Sep haunting beauty mountainousdesert; p536 Addo Elephant Cape Eastern year-round canoeing, hiking, p528 rock klipspringers, waterfalls; river, desert, Richtersveld kloofing hiking, Jun-Oct p457 Augrabies Falls year-round Cape Northern stunningvistas canyon,caves,river; vehiclesafaris, savanna,woodlands,thornveld;theBigFive p419 Canyon Blyde River year-round Kruger National hiking mountainousandrugged;Sanrockpaintings Limpopo Mpumalanga/ hiking, Cederberg rockyheadlands,seascapes;waterbirds, Cape Western Peninsula Cape eln ak id,hpo vehicle/boatsafaris elands,birds rheboks, zebras,jackals, National Park walks,vehiclesafaris fantasticsceneryandwildernessareas else;hundreds ofbird almosteverything ParkDrakensberg wildlife watching giraffes, lions, elephants,lotsofbirds rhinos, birds,hippos Reserve Wetland Park Park rich clawlessotters,baboons,monkeys, guidedwildlife walks trails,horseriding rafting birdlife buffaloes kloofs; elephants,blackrhinos, National Park National Park zebras, plants,birds jackals, klipspringers, scenery dassies;striking National Park andmanymore National Park Nature Reserve Park mountainbiking bizzare sandstoneformations,abundant plant Wilderness Area penguins bonteboks,elands,African National Park life to Visit SOUTHAFRICA••Environment ceives anaverage of only500mm of rainfall increasing urbanpressures. tions, ispushing peopletothecities, further soil depletion.This, pluspooroverall condi- and overcropping have resulted inmassive former homelandareas, years of overgrazing land considered tobeseverely degraded.In problems, withabout25%of SouthAfrica’s lack adequate utilitiesandinfrastructure. concentrations intownshipsthat generally of theapartheidera–withhuge population Water isanother issue. South Africare- degradationisoneof themostserious Land

413 SOUTH AFRICA AFRICA SOUTH SOUTH AFRICA legged potover hotcoals. that hasbubbledawayforhours inathree- tionally features stewed meatandvegetables an inferior grade. curry with atoppingof beaten baked egg to (traditional Malay dish of delicately flavoured produce. Dishestowatch forincludebobotie feature isamixture of Asian spicesandlocal nonetheless well worth trying.Thecentral Oftensettlers. stodgyandoverly it’s sweet, Madagascar and Indonesia)withtheDutch the ‘Malay’ slaves (manyof whomwere from cuisinehasitsrootsinthemixingofCape Often referred Malay toasCape cuisine, CAPE CUISINE you’re eating getting toboerewors, used itcouldbethat meat) or kaner cuisineislikely tobe Your first introductiontotraditionalAfri- BILTONG &BOEREWORS Town remain thebestplacestoeatwell. boerewors andbeer. TheWinelandsandCape a formof elements cooking,withtheessential African cuisine. It’sasmuch as asocialevent has broken acrossracelines–thatdefinesSouth braai (barbecue)–anAfrikanerinstitutionthat wafted over theIndianOceanfromAsia. and scentsof curryandcorianderthathave of African familylife forcenturies;asprinkling of maizedishes thathave atthecentre been of tered endlessvariety thebush;seemingly stews that resulted whentheDutch encoun- sion of influences:heartymeatandvegetable life, theculinarybarriers are tofall. starting Today, alongwithdivisionsinotheraspectsof Malaysthe IndiansandCape theircurries. their boerewors and (spicyfarmer’ssausages), mealie pap(maizeporridge), theAfrikaners theAfricanshadtheir a unifiedwhole. Earlier, anyone hastalked of SouthAfricancuisineas It’s onlysincethedismantlingof apartheidthat FOOD &DRINK increased silting. also disrupted localecosystems andcaused improved water suppliestomanyareas, ithas dammedormodified.Whilethishas been demand, allmajor South Africanrivers have areannually, anddroughts common.Tomeet 414 Perhaps more it’sthe thananythingelse, Awaiting thevisitinggastronomeisafu- piri-piri SOUTH AFRICA •• Food & Drink SOUTH AFRICA••Food&Drink boerewors (hotpepper)fromMozambique; braaiwors Potjiekos . Ifyou’re having trouble (barbecue sausages), (barbecuesausages), (potfood)tradi- biltong (dried

ies (smallbottles)foraroundUS$1.10.Bars head’s. Lager-style comes incansordump- beer provincesthe Cape tryMitchell’s andBirken- In andNamibia’sall-natural Windhoek. Label ous reasonable Black brands,includingCastle, isthenationalbeverage. There areBeer numer- BEER orstew.sauce withagood can bequiteserved satisfying want somethingfillingandeconomical, an acquired taste. it’sidealifyou However, on where youeatit),blandandsomethingof South Africa. (depending It’sthinnerorstiffer Mealie papisthemostwidelyeaten foodin MEALIE PAP scooped outandfilledwithcurry). bunny chow Durban andhungryforaquickbite tryafilling they’rethough usuallynotasspicy.Ifyou’re in ries. Curriesare cuisine, alsopopularinCape Durban istheplacetogoforspiciestcur- great thecurry. exporttoSouthAfricahasbeen Along withMahatma Ghandi,India’sother CURRIES and pondweed) stew; meatstewed withtheflowerof theCape ney), bottles). rants stock afew varietiesindinkies (250ml in arestaurant orbottlestore. Mostrestau- Hermitage), Shiraz andPinotNoir. of which wasknownas PinotandCinsaut, Sauvignon, pinotage (alocalcross Cabernet Chenin Blanc–whilepopularreds include Sauvignon Blanc,Riesling,Colombard and priced. Drywhites are particularlygood–try andreasonablyis bothof standard ahigh then, it’shadtimetoage toperfection, and South Africanwinedebuted in1659.Since WINE tled water andpurifystream water. sources maybecontaminated), sticktobot- that localconditionsindicate thatwater inruralareascities. However, (oranywhere Tap water isgenerally safe inSouthAfrica’s WATER beers areUS$1.40. Draught uncommon. long toms(750mlbottles)fromaround serve a crust, served withstewed fruitsandchut- a crust,served Wine pricesaverage fromaroundUS$8 waterblommetjie bredie (curry-to-go: halfaloafof bread, malva (apricot pudding). lonelyplanet.com (water-flower Good looking,fun-loving, sportyandlaid- % CAPE TOWN lonelyplanet.com of today’s coloured populationand alsohelps of unions formedthe basisof these sections Theoffspring intermixed withtheKhoesaan. Intimethe slavesboth labourandsex. also the female for slaves andthelocalKhoesaan shorter supply,sotheEuropeansexploited chronic labour shortage. Womenwere ineven laya andIndonesiatodealwiththe colony’s slaves Ma- from Madagascar, India,Ceylon, wasforced toimport the Dutch, sotheVOC Theindigenous peopleshunned Khoesaan. nomadic tribes,collectively knownasthe area bytheSanandKhoekhoen was settled here Town abase established in1652,theCape (Vereenigde Oost-Indische Compagnie;VOC) Long before IndiaCompany theDutch East HISTORY of getting themostoutof avisithere. Mother City’struediversity andspiritisallpart Discoveringcrime andHIV/AIDSstatistics. the and optimismtobalanceagainsttheshocking lifestyle andmanygreat examplesof civicpride of –there Capetonians are huge differences in areas of thecity–hometovastmajority in thetownshipsanddeprived coloured poverty of townships such Even asKhayelitsa. sidebywiththe andConstantia Bay Camps tory of over 350years. record of thecity’stumultuousrecorded his- South Africa’s‘rainbownation’andavisual The city’smultiethnicpopulationisproof of restaurantsexcellent guesthouses, andbars. contemporary Afro-chic décorof themany torian bathingchalets of , tothe painted façadesof theBo-Kaap andtheVic- fromthebrightly and colour–ineverything Town’seye-catching waywithdesign Cape flora, thatisthefocusof attention. derness of Table coated Mountain, inaunique lively asitsculturalscene,it’stherugged wil- and and vineyardscanbe,ascosmopolitan tre. As beautifulasthesurroundingbeaches slap-bangwith aniconicmountain inits cen- one of theworld’smoststunninglocations, once –it’salltrue. TheMotherCityoccupies that’s howherprofile wouldread. And–for back. If Townwasinthedatinggame Cape Complementing thisnaturalbeautyis It’s aplaceof extremes, withthe wealthof 021 /pop3,140,600 CAPETOWN••History to upgrade conditions. government andbegan accepted theinevitable unsuccessful ineradicating thetowns,and dreds were killed.Even was attack thisbrutal ple were driven from theirhomesandhun- May andJune 1986, anestimated 70,000peo- apartheid regime. Initslastattempt between were focalpointsforblackresistance tothe cate squatter towns,such asCrossroads,which Flats. out tothebleakCape such asDistrictSix,beinguprooted andcast erected. Thisresulted inwholecommunities, apparatusofand theinsane apartheidwas coloureds were tovote in theCape removed tional battles,thelimitedof rights blacksand ofwon. Inaseries bitter courtandconstitu- tion onitspolicyof apartheid andnarrowly intothetownshipsof Flats. develop theCape of Thiswasthestart whatwouldlatertain. onthewestern flankof Table Moun- locations, onenearthedocksandotherat racial segregation: blackswere moved totwo gave thegovernment tointroduce anexcuse it actuallycameonboatsfromArgentina) and blamed ontheblackAfricanworkers (although Consolidated Mines. Beers who hadmadehismillionsattheheadof De (premierRhodes of Colonyin1890), theCape dreams of John grandeuronthepartof Cecil wealthledtoimperialist society. Thesame that laidthefoundationsforanindustrial it toowasabeneficiaryof the mineralwealth metropolis inthecountry,butasamajor port Town wassoonnolonger thesingledominant 1870s and1880sledtorapidchanges. Cape and goldinthecentre of SouthAfricainthe and allslaves were emancipated in1833. 1814. Theslave tradewasabolishedin1808, colony wascededtotheCrownon13August , 25kmnorthof Town,the Cape lowing theBritishdefeat of theDutch in1806at an easytarget forBritishimperialinterests. Fol- Town wasalmostbankrupt,makingCape VOC Butbytheend ofEast. the18thcentury by sailors travelling Europeandthe between ‘Tavern ariotousportused Seas’, of theSeven thrived andgainedawiderreputation asthe becameknown, settlement astheCape stad, Muslim population. explain theuniquecharacter of thecity’sCape The government triedfordecadestoeradi- The discovery of andexploitation diamonds In 1948theNationalParty stoodforelec- An outbreak of bubonicplaguein1901was In the150-oddyears of Dutch rule,Kaap-

415 SOUTH AFRICA AFRICA SOUTH SOUTH AFRICA 416 0 5 km 0 3 miles

Ferry to To Bloubergstrand To Melkboshstrand (20km); CAPE TOWN••CapePeninsula A B Robben C (7km) DFSkydive Cape Town (20km); E Island (3km) River Langebaan (120km) To Paarl (42km);

Diep M Johannesburg N R 5 (1400km) 1 27 Vanguard Rd 1 M 1 14 M 23 Marine Dr Koeberg Rd N 7 Minor Roads Not Depicted Acacia N See Cape Town & Southern Park 1 Suburbs Map (pp420-1) Bellville 6 Monte Ὀ Parow R Kentemade Vista 27 Table Goodwood Voortrekker Rd Bay R102 Parow Elsies Vasco Paardeneiland Woltemade River Esplanade N Goodwood 1 Maitland M Kuilsrivier Signal Cape Town Avonwood Ave 10 2 Hill JanSmuts 2 Woodstock Salt River Maitland (352m) Ndabeni Clifton Observatory Pinelands Observatory Langa Laristown M ὈὈὈὈVredehoek Pinelands Modderdam 12 A T L A N T I C Mowbray Stellenbo O C E A N Camps Netreg Bay s Table sch Rd l e Mountain t Hazendal s (1000m) Klipfontein Rd Fwy o Rosebank Cape Town p Table Mountain Athlone Dr N M International2 A National Park 18 Newlands Athlone Airport e 5 Guguletu 7 v M l Claremont Crawford Rd 6 e Rondebosch Vanguard Settlers Way Hall 3 ὈὈὈw MainὈ Entrance to Turf 3 4 Kirstenbosch To (20km); T Nyanga Strand (24km); R44 (24km); Dr Nyanga Wynberg Lansdowne Crossroads Gordon's Bay (30km); Wreck of Ryecroft Gate BishopscourtWater Hottentots Hollandberge (30km); Romelia Victoria Ave Entrance to es Lansdowne Rd Cape Hangklip (50km); od loo Kirstenbosch Rh Port Elizabeth (750km) M Rd Wynberg Wetton Philippi R300 Llandudno Con 5 M N stan Constantia Constantia 9 2 M Philippi Mandalay Sandy 63 tia Ottery Bay MainM Cape Flats Fwy Little Lion's 4 Rd Nonqubela Head (436m) 3 M Lentegeur ὈὈὈὈὈὈὈImizamo Yethu ὈPlumstead 22

Main Rd

Ladies lonelyplanet.com Khayelitsha emat Rd Steurhof Mitchell's Mile M Hout Bay Plain 32 4 ansch 4 M 2 a Constantiaberge River Mitchell's Plain 6 M Sp Rondevlei M 3 M Duiker 42 Nature17

Island Reserve Rd

Dve Kapteinsklip Tokai berg Diep River

Peak R310 ὈὈὈὈSteen ὄ lonelyplanet.com ὈὈὈὈὈὈὈRetreat ὄStrandfontein an's 1 Steenberg Sewage Works m Lakeside Strandfontein Zandvlei Chap Noordhoek M Valsbaai Baden Powell Rd 64 R310

Muizenberg

5 Noo 5 Noordhoek Muizenberg Beach rd

ho CAPETOWN••CapePeninsula ek M Chapman's Rd 4 ὈὈὈMasiphumelele ὈὈὄ Bay Kalk BayKalk Bay Long Clovelly Beach Clovelly Seal Rd M jie M Island met Slangkop65 6 FishFish Hoek Hoek Lighthouse Kom

Rd False

wn Bay

To 6 ὈὈὈ 6 M 65 Simon's INFORMATION M US Consulate...... 1 C5 66 Simon's Scarborough Town SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Red Hill Duiker Island Cruises...... 2 B4 Simon's Town ...... 3 C4 ὈὈὈὈὈὈὈὈ Kirstenbosch Botanical Gardens...... 4 C3 Boulders M M 4 ENTERTAINMENT 65 Club Galaxy...... 5 D3 West End...... (see 5) 7 7 SHOPPING ...... 6 D2

A T L A N T I C TRANSPORT O C E A N ὈὈὈὈὈ Cape Town International Airport...... 7 E3

Entrance Smitswinkel to Park Bay

Cape of Good Hope Nature Reserve 8 ὈὈὈὈὈ 8

Buffels 417 Bay ὈὈὈ AFRICA SOUTH SOUTH AFRICA first publicspeech indecadesfromthebal- 11 February 1990,NelsonMandela madehis skirting the eastern flankof and themountains WalkShopping Tothesouth, Centre). Canal district of Bloubergstrand andtheenormous northeast (thisiswhere suburbs. are populated seaside otherdensely Point Nearby SignalHill,Green Point andSea boerskloof are of allwithin walkingdistance it. city suburbsof Gardens, andTam- andeastofMountain SignalHill.Theinner- as theCityBowl–liestonorth of Table Town’scommercialcentreCape –known ORIENTATION is atitsmostgentle. May, theweatherremains goodandthewind From March extent in toApril,andalesser Doctor) generally keeping things bearable. strong southeasterly wind(knownastheCape maximum temperature isonly26°Cwiththe cember toMarch theaverage ishot,although toNovemberSeptember isunpredictable. De- range from7°Cto18°C.Springweather JuneandAugust)whentemperaturestween cold andwetforafew months inwinter (be- itcanberelatively Town,although in Cape Great extremes of temperature are unknown CLIMATE the overstretched fire brigade. power outages inthecityandlackof fundsfor were localgovernment corruption,therolling the rulingAfricanNationalCongress (ANC) receive percentage of ahigher thevote than the issuesthat recent local electionsinMarch 2006,among of levels high drug-related crime. Atthemost of which are theHIV/AIDspandemicand nomic, socialandhealthproblems,notleast horrendousalong racelinesandsuffer eco- Flatsremainnians wholive intheCape split atall.Thevastmajorityachievable of Capeto- remainsulation, however, alongwayoff,ifit’s as MutualHeights. style apartmentsingrandoldstructures such and live, of withthedevelopment ritzyloft- safer andmore placetoshop, work pleasant prices keep boomingandthecitycentre isa has improved Townsince–property inCape beginning of aneweraforSouthAfrica. Much cony of Town’sCityHall, Cape heraldingthe 418 Full integration of Town’smixed pop- Cape Hours after beingreleased fromprisonon The city sprawls quite a distance tothe The citysprawls quite adistance CAPE TOWN••Climate helped theDemocraticAlliance you’ll findthebeachside excellent range,includingsomebooksinFrench. Claremont); Wharf); 0905; Victoria unsurpassed range on South Africa andthecontinent. unsurpassed rangeonSouthAfrica 211LongSt,CityBowl)Stocksan www.clarkesbooks.co.za; and handy. 16BurgSt,CityBowl; .catwalk.co.za; Fire brigade Ambulance phonenumbers:mobile phone. Otheruseful In anemergency call Emergency Books Exclusive Bookshop Clarke’s the city. gent isCNA,withnumerousbranches around The mainmass-market bookshopandnewsa- Bookshops INFORMATION ter explored with yourowncarorbike. are andNoordhoek bet- Llandudno, HoutBay as yougofurthersouth,thecommunitiesof can easilybereached bypublictransport,but is a10-minute drive fromthecitycentre and Table andLion’sHead. Mountain Bay Camps PointorviaKloof Nek, thepassbetween Sea are Bay roadfrom accessiblebycoastal Camps NewlandsandConstantia. Observatory, leafy andincreasingly rich suburbsincluding running downtoMuizenberg atFalse are Bay, SAA-Netcare Travel Clinic Travel SAA-Netcare SchuurHospital Groote 8th floor. hospital;reception isonthe St, CityBowl)Thebestprivate % Hospital BarnardMemorial Christian Services Medical TV Catwalk at US$1.40perhour. arefor aninternet café.Rates pretty uniform havefacilities andyou’llseldom tohuntfar Africa. Mosthotels andhostels have internet TownisoneofCape themostwired citiesin Access Internet Police Services Mountain Rescue travel health. h 419 3172;11thfl,Picbal Arcade,58StrandSt,CityBowl; Rd,Observatory) 9111; capegateway.gov.za/gsh; Main On theAtlanticCoast,exclusive Cliftonand 021-480 6111; www.netcare.co.za; 181 Longmarket 021-480 6111;www.netcare.co.za; 181Longmarket 8am-5pm Mon-Fri, 9am-1pmSat) For vaccinationsand 8am-5pm Mon-Fri, ( % Lifestyles onKloof 10111) ( Mp pp428-9; (Map ( % %

10177) Waterfront 021-535 1100) Mp pp428-9; (Map Cavendish SqMall % Mp pp420-1; (Map (Map p431;KloofSt)Hasan (Map (Map (Map pp424-5 ; % Mp pp428-9; (Map 107, or ( % 021-423 8999;www 021-948 9900) h % lonelyplanet.com % Mp pp420-1; (Map 24hr) Central 021-423 5739; 112 ifusinga % Mp pp428-9; (Map % % 021-404 021-419 021- arrange visas for neighbouring countries. arrange visasforneighbouring is theagentforThomasCooktravellerscheques. Itcan and Handlesinternationalanddomesticbookings Wharf) day trips, hire cars and extended truck tours of Africa. trucktoursofAfrica. hire carsandextended day trips, including of tours andactivities, Booksallsorts boerskloof) Backpack,74NewChurchSt,Tam-www.backpackers.co.za; Anchor Bay) Gay-run tourcompanyandtravelagent. Anchor Bay)Gay-run % agent forThomasCook,hasforeign-exchange ism ( below ). Rennies Travel ( below ), thelocal TownTour-commercial banksandatCape Money canbechanged attheairport,most Money lonelyplanet.com is. There istremendous poverty onthepenin- gear onabeach whiletheygoswimming. visitors dosomething stupidlike leaving their Theftsaresecurity. mostlikely tohappen when of sense cities inAfrica,which caninstilafalse TownremainsCape oneof themostrelaxed DANGERS &ANNOYANCES Rd); Travel Rennies InformationCentre Tourist Atlantic Centre Travel Africa Agencies Travel Tourism Town Cape Information Tourist Parliament St,CityBowl; postoffice General Post Express American offices. noon Sat)Hasaposterestante counter. Hotel Mall, Waterfront) Hotel Mall, Sq); foreign-exchange booth. foreign-exchange ( ( Parks can alsogetadviceonCapeNature Conservation tours andrental cars. AttheCityCentre branchyou you’ll findadviserswhocanbookaccommodation, h Mp pp428-9; (Map pp424-5; (Map 8.30am-1pm Sat,9am-1pmSunApr-Sep); 8am-5.30pmMon-Fri, 2pm Sat,9am-1pmSunOct-Mar, & BurgSts,CityBowl; City Centre Sea Point % % Paranoia isnot required, but commonsense There are ATMs allover town. 021-434 2382; www.arokan.co.za; 242 Main Rd,Three 242Main 021-434 2382;www.arokan.co.za; 9am-9pm) Atthisimpressive andwell-runcentre, Waterfront Waterfront 021-423 8005).There’s alsoaninternetcaféanda 021-426 0723)andtheNationalParks &Reserves

Mp pp420-1; (Map (Map pp428-9 ; pp428-9; (Map Mp pp424-5; (Map

Mp pp424-5; (Map % % (www.renniestravel.co.za) 021-423 7154; 101 St George’s Mall); Mall); 021-423 7154;101StGeorge’s 021-405 4500;ClockTowerCentre; CAPETOWN••Dangers&Annoyances

City Bowl (Map (Map pp428-9 ; h Mp p432; (Map (www.tourismcapetown.co.za) (www.tourismcapetown.co.za) % h % 8am-6pm Mon-Fri, 8.30am- 8am-6pm Mon-Fri, 021-439 7529; 182 Main 021-439 7529;182Main 8am-4.30pm Mon-Fri, to 8am-4.30pm Mon-Fri, ( % % 021-487 6800;cnrCastle % 021-419 3917;V&A 021-418 3744; Victoria 021-418 3744;Victoria 021-425 7991;Thibault % % 021-423 5555; (Map (Map pp420-1 ; 021-464 1700; Waterfront Waterfront & Jan) US$20/10; until 1996. Now a museum andUNWorld until 1996.Now a museum , avisithere isnotwithout destinations inall of Town. Cape Heritage Site, itisoneof the mostpopular land Prisoners were incarcerated on Gateway Robben Island&NelsonMandela a nonshared willcostaroundUS$7. taxi at thecablecarfromcitycentre forUS$2; kis (small,openvans;see p437 ) willdropyou see climbing themountain p427 . of Fordetails the morningorinevening. and conditionsare likely tobefirst thingin Thebestvisibility known asthe‘tablecloth’. are simplygoingtobewrappedinthecloud windy, andthere’s littlepointgoingupifyou operate whenit’s dangerouslybleway doesn’t café andsomeeasywalkstofollow.TheCa- you’re atthetopthere are souvenir shops, a and onthesummitare phenomenal.Once season. minutes inhigh/low Feb-Nov, to10pmDec&Jan) adult oneway/return US$8/16,childUS$4/6; Cableway the topof bythe which caneasilybeaccessed itself, mountain traction isthe1086m-high For thevastmajority of visitors themainat- Point. toCape inthesea’) means ‘mountain ( stretches fromflat-toppedTable Mountain sula Covering somethree quarters of thepenin- Table MountainNationalPark SIGHTS patrolled areas. signs about ripsand rocksandonlyswimin inexperienced insurf.Checkforwarning potentially hazardous,especiallyforthose There issafety innumbers. the city,andalwayslisten tolocaladvice. a tourtheyare notplacesforacasualstroll. unless youhave atrustworthyguideorare on FlatshaveCape anappallingcrimerate and is reasonably common.Thetownshipsonthe sula andthe‘informalredistribution of wealth’ Hoerikwaggo, While we heartilyrecommend going to If youdon’thave yourowntransport,Rik- The viewsfromtherevolving cable car Swimming atanyof beaches is theCape Stick totheroadswhenyouwalkaround

Table MountainNationalPark from the early days of the VOC right up right fromtheearlydaysof theVOC ( % h 413 4220; www.robben-island.org.za; adult/child 413 4220;www.robben-island.org.za;

( % hourly ferries 9am-3pm,sunsettour5pmDec hourly ferries 021-424 5148;www.tablemountain.net; its indigenous Khoesaan name itsindigenous Khoesaan , which 10/20 runsevery (www.tmnp.co.za)

h Robben Is- 8.30am-7pm 419

SOUTH AFRICA AFRICA SOUTH SOUTH AFRICA 420 4 6 1 3 2 5 CAPE TOWN&SOUTHERNSUBURBS CAPE TOWN••CapeTown&SouthernSuburbs O onKloof...... Cape TownBackpackersSeaPoint...... Camps BayRetreat...... ...... Pro Divers...... Rennies Travel...... Groote SchuurHospital...... Exclusive Books...... Atlantic TouristInformationCentre.... SLEEPING SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES INFORMATION ὈὈὈὈὈ ὈὈὈὈὈ ὈὈὈὈὈ ὈὈὈὈὈ ὈὈὈὈὈ ὈὈὈὈὈ ὈὈὈὈὈ ὈὈὈὈὈ A M 6 Whale Rocks 62 ὈὈὈ ὈὈὈ Ὀ Ὀ M M 6

Saunders

Rocks 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1

Point Kasteelpoort Sea B2 C1 B4 G5 C1 C1 G4 G6 C1 Oudekraal Queens Beach B

Victoria Rd Bantry Bay

A TLNIC

Victori Rd Rd 7 a Queens O CEAN Beach Rd

Camps Clifton

Bay Kloof Rd Regent Rd 9 ὈὈὈ ὈὈ ὈὈ Dr

Kloof Rd Fresnaye Ave Fresnaye (669m) Lion's Head

A T Fresnaye p w

Point

Beach M

Sea o e 6 s l

t v Main Rd Rocklands High Level Rd Rd

l e Beach Kloof Nek Kloof

e C 5

s Reservoir Mocke Ὀ ὈὈ ὈὈ 62 M

Tamboerskloof 8 4 Green Point Schotsche Table Mountain M & WaterfrontMap(pp424-5) See GreenPoint,Waterkant 6 Cableway National Park Cableway 1

Anchor Kloof Beach Rd

Three Station Station Lower Upper Bay T able B ack

Woodhead High Level Rd Level High Reservoir

Mouille Western Blvd Western Point Gardens Map(p432) See Gardens,Oranjezicht&

Kloof Nek Rd Green

Point Kloof ὈὈ ὈὈ ὈὈ ὈὈὈ Ὀ Ὀ ὈὈ Ὀ ὈὈὈ Ὀ Ὀ lonelyplanet.com Mountain (1073m) Hutchinson Table St Reservoir D Hely- De Waal Orion's Park

Cave

Bridle Rd Bridle Waaikoppie

Annandale Buitengracht St Rd Beach Kaap Bo-

Junction Portswood (921m) (932m) Upper Orange St Rd Peak Loop St Long St

Rd 61 M ὈὈὈὈὈ ὈὈὈὈὈ ὈὈὈὈὈ ὈὈὈὈὈὈ ὈὈὈὈὈὈὈ ὈὈ ὈὈ 62 M M 6 59 M

lonelyplanet.com

Main Rd Main Foreshore Protea

Waterfront

Ὀ Ὀ Ὀ ὈὈὈ Ὀ (1077m) Plantation St Darling N

2

Cecilia Buitenkant St Newlands

Good Hope Cape Town Roeland St Roeland Castle of

Waterkant (1045m) Maclear's (1088m) Beacon E E astern T able R102 Prospect Mount 60 M CAPETOWN••CapeTown&SouthernSuburbs N 1 See CentralCapeTownMap(pp428-9) ὈὈὈ N 2 Zonnebloem 60 M M 3

Tafl

eb Cres Waal De N

1 Foreshore erg Robben Island

Rd St Market New To (1000m) F Devil's

Peak

Eastern Bay Table Newlands King's Blockhouse ὈὈ ὈὈ Ὀ Forest State M

4

Woodstock

Blvd Blvd

Victoria Rd Victoria Church St R102

Newlands Reservoir Union Ave Rd Albert

Newlands Newlands M 3 Interchange N 2 Ὀ Ὀ ὈὈὈ Ὀ Ὀ Salt River Princess Anne

Ave ὆὆὆ ὆὆὆ ὆὆὆ 0 0 G

M T a b l e l b a T

Liesbeek dence Rd 4 Resi Ave Durham y a B Schuur Groote Marine Estate Protea Rd Rho 6

des Observatory

Albert Rd Albert Main Rd Main Dr N 1 M 4 3 2 Rd ὆὆ ὆὆ Rondebosch

Main Rd Wo Table Bay Blvd

Voortrekker Rd 27 Mowbray R M ὈὈὈ ὈὈὈ Ὀ ὈὈὈ Ὀ Ὀ ὈὈὈ ὈὈ Newlands 3 Newlands Rondebosch Ground

ols Cricket Stadium Newlands Rugby Claremont

Paarden ack 0.5 miles 57 M Eiland Rosebank Settlers

M Station Rd

4 Dr 1 km 57 M

Way Malta 33 M Park

Belmont H

Claremont Marine Dr ὆὆ ὆὆ Salt

Rd Liesbeek

Black River Pkwy Black

Ὀ Ὀ Ὀ Canal

Canal River R102

421

Pkwy

4 6 1 3 2 5 Koeberg Rd Koeberg N AFRICA SOUTH 2 SOUTH AFRICA Even if you don’tplanavisittotheisland, beside theClockToweratWaterfront. . 466 7208;per personUS$7,10people minimum) features of theirneighbourhood oncestood. labelled where their of DistrictSixonwhich formerresidents have it isabout them.Displaysincludeafloormap the peopleof thenow-vanished District Sixas emotionally moving isasmuch for museum first toexplainthehistoryof thepasslaws.This Note thatalmostalltownship tours stophere adult/child US$2/1.30; % make itthe Town inCape onlyonemuseum If yousee SIXMUSEUM DISTRICT District Six). (onceknownas and totheeastZonnebloem the westisBo-Kaap andtheWaterkant, Signal Hillandtheharbour. Immediately to Table between Bowl issqueezed Mountain, The commercialheartof Town,City Cape City Bowl up fordays. city. Atholidaytimesalltours canbebooked TownTourism(see or atCape p419 ) inthe the NelsonMandela Gateway departure point forfreedom.its focusonthestruggle Bookat here,it’s worthdroppingbythemuseum with Gateway former politicalprisoner. isolation cellsisanartefact andstoryfroma Stories’.Ineachmoving of exhibition‘Cell 40 A-section toviewtheremarkable andvery recommend totheprison’s headingstraight minutes to wanderaroundonyourown.We of note. Ifyou’re lucky,you’llhave about10 onthevariousplaces island withcommentary as wella45-minute busridearoundthe ticket, theoldprison, includeawalkthrough ture andreturn timeswhenyoubuyyour inmates willleadyouaroundtheprison. and others like him,sinceoneof theformer learn much of whathappenedtoMandela both directions) short. Youwill iswoefully on theisland(plusa30-minute boatridein a guidedtourthatatmaximumof twohours endure crowdsandbeinghustledaroundon its drawbacks.Mostlikely youwillhave to 422 Tours departfromthe You canalsoarrange a tours,The standard which have depar- set 021-466 7200; www.districtsix.co.za; 25A Buitenkant St; 25ABuitenkant 021-466 7200;www.districtsix.co.za; CAPE TOWN••Sights

Mp p445; diso free; admission pp424-5; (Map District SixMuseum District h 9am-3pm Mon,to4pmTue-Sat) demolished homes and walking tour walking Nelson Mandela h

Mp pp428-9; (Map of theold 9am-8.30pm) (

% 021- .

when president Hendrik Verwoerd, architect of somepretty including seen momentousevents, tory. Openedin1885,thehallowedhallshave if you’re interested inthecountry’smodernhis- by appointmentMon-Fri) www.parliament.gov.za; Parliament St;admissionfree; Africa’s itsoundsunlikely,Although visitingSouth HOUSES OFPARLIAMENT found aroundGovernment Ave. patch IndiaCompanyare fortheDutch East six hectares of asthevegetable whatstarted relax during theheatof theday.Thesurviving in theheartof thecityare alovely placeto shadygreen These GARDENS COMPANY’S emony –isheldat10amMondaytoFriday. the gate are handedover inanorchestrated cer- ceremony atthecastlegate –whenthekeys to quite easilyfindyourownwayaround.Akey est building.Atourisworthwhile,butyoucan structure iscommonlytouted asthecity’sold- to defend thecity,thisstone-walledpentagonal Sat) US$1.40/0.70; St;Mon-Satadult/childUS$2.70/1.30, Sun on Buitenkant 9 ; Many are tofinda surprised CASTLE OFGOOD HOPE known as theNoonGun (Map pp428–9 ) is at night. summit,especially views fromthe350m-high from theCityBowl. There are magnificent (Map pp428–9 Point Sea ) separates tached toLion’sHead bya‘spine’of hills, Once alsoknownasLion’sRump, asit’sat- SIGNAL HILL&NOONGUN north toaroundtheStrand. runs fromthejunctionwithBuitensingle St buildings withlovely balconies, wrought-iron attractive linedwithVictorian-era section, tial elementof Townvisit.Themost aCape along LongSt(Map pp428–9 ) isanessen- bars astroll andclubsthatcrankupatnight, streetwear boutiques,ortopartyatthehostof bookstoresshops, secondhand andthe theantique Whether youcometobrowse must present your passport togainentry. todeathin1966.You apartheid, wasstabbed % At noon MondaytoSaturday, acannon in Cape Town. Built between 1666and1679 Town.Builtbetween inCape 021-787 1249;www.castleofgoodhope.co.za; entrance parliament h 9am-4pm, tours11am,noon&2pmMon- canbefascinating,especially Mp pp428-9; (Map gardens Mp p432; (Map

lonelyplanet.com castle % 021-403 2266; h (Map pp428- 7am-7pm) h tours

collection harksbacktoDutch timesandin- St andkeep goinguntilitends. here theBo-Kaap through –take Longmarket below tocheck walkup theirwatches. It’sastiff ditionally thisallowedtheburghers inthetown fired fromthelowerslopesof SignalHill.Tra- lonelyplanet.com 465 1546; www.sajewishmuseum.co.za; 88 Hatfield St, Gardens; 88 HatfieldSt,Gardens; 465 1546;www.sajewishmuseum.co.za; The TOWN HOLOCAUST CENTRE SOUTH AFRICAN JEWISHMUSEUM&CAPE contemporary out the most. worksthatstand cludes someextraordinarypieces,but it’soften Tue-Sun) dens; adult/childUS$1.40/0.70,Satbydonation; Government Ave,467 4660;www.museums.org.za/sang; Gar- premier Africa’s South SA NATIONAL GALLERY (opposite ). Gardens Company’s major here sights are clustered aroundthe Oranjezicht andVredehoek. Most of the ritzy suburbsof Gardens,, Rising upTable slopesare Mountain’s the &Around Gardens architecture. (during theday)toadmire thetraditional Mon-Sat) adult/childUS$0.70/0.30; St, Bo-Kaap; 71Wale 3939; www.museums.org.za/bokaap/index.html; but engaging style of thepeopleof theBo-Kaap isthissmall intothehistoryandlife-Giving someinsight BO-KAAP MUSEUM tural HistoryMuseum. astheCul- back tothebuilding’sformeruse from ancientEgypt, Greece andRome,hark displays onthe2ndfloor,includingartefacts the although their descendantsintheCape, to thehistoryandexperienceof slaves and the corneronSpinSt. The slaves were andsoldjustaround bought crowded conditions.Upto20%diedeach year. as 1000slaves, wholived indamp,insanitary, was home,ifyoucouldcallitthat,toasmany a fascinatinghistory.Until1811thebuilding adult/child US$1.40/0.70; 49AdderleySt; 460 8240;www.museums.org.za/slavelodge; dating from1660, One of theoldestbuildingsinSouthAfrica, SLAVE LODGE The museum todayisincreasinglyThe museum devoted South African Jewish Museum Jewish South African isamustforartlovers. Thepermanent . It’sworthastrollaroundthearea museum CAPETOWN••Sights Slave Lodge Slave h

10am-4.30pm Mon-Sat) Mp pp428-9; (Map gallery (Map pp428-9; (Map

(Map p432 ; p432 (Map (Map p432; (Map h

9.30am-4.30pm h % 10am-5pm % % 021-481 % has 021- 021- 021- is oneof themostimaginatively designedand emotional punch. the centre packsalotinwithconsiderable sible by steps from VictoriaRd. Almost beaches atClifton (Map pp420–1 ), acces- Giant granite boulders split thefourlinked CLIFTON BEACHES Bay. Clifton andCamps swimming pavilion), youcanhead downto Point(bestvisited foritsexcellent outdoor Sea isfreezing. From fromtheAntarctic, straight at somebeaches, thewater atthemall,flowing ble toshelter fromthe summersoutheasterlies it’spossi- winds canbeadownerandalthough sceneryandsoft-sand beaches.tacular Strong Town’sAtlanticCoastisall about spec- Cape Coast Atlantic FW DeKlerkandNelsonMandela. bishop DesmondTutu,andformerpresidents Prize winners: NkosiAlbertLuthuli,Arch- than-life of statues SouthAfrica’sfourNobel Square boat moorings,andtheconstructionof & AMarina include themillionaires’ playgroundof the lazing nearthedocks. there are splashingaroundor alwaysseals vessels of variouskindsandfishing boats; bytugs,harbour working harbourstillused is partlydowntothefactthatitremains a ofcruises theharbour(see p426 ). Itssuccess bars, cinemasandotherattractions,including cinct offers of masses shops,restaurants, (www.waterfront.co.za) Commonly referred toasjustthe &ALBERTWATERFRONTVICTORIA opment of ashoppinganddiningcomplex. find Green devel- Point,which haslately seen for RobbenIsland( p419 ). Nearhere you’llalso attheWaterfront,start fromwhere youdepart Town’sprimeAtlanticCoastsuburbs &Waterfront Green h admissionfree; 5553; www.museums.org.za/ctholocaust; TownHolocaustCentre Cape gogue (1862). thebeautifullyrestoredthrough OldSyna- interesting of Entryis thecity’smuseums. adult/child US$4.70/0.30; Recent developments attheWaterfrontRecent developments In the same complexyou’llalsofindthe In thesame 10am-5pm Sun-Thu, to1pmFri)

Mp p445; ok Rd) Dock pp424-5; (Map withsome600apartmentsand200 , thistourist-oriented pre- h 10am-5pm Sun-Thu, to2pmFri) . Checkoutthelarger-

Mp p432; (Map . Although small, . Although Waterfront % 021-462 Nobel 423

V

SOUTH AFRICA AFRICA SOUTH ὈὈὈὈὈὈ ὈὈὈὈὈὈ ὈὈὈὈὈὈ ὈὈὈὈὈὈ ὈὈὈὈὈὈὈὈ ὈὈὈὈὈὈὈὈ ὈὈὈὈὈὈὈὈ ὈὈὈὈὈὈὈὈ

SOUTH AFRICA

424 4 St Glengariff 6 1 3 2 5 GREEN POINT,WATERKANT&WATERFRONT

Anchor

Three

Bay Lighthouse

Green Point

Beach Rd &Waterfront CAPE TOWN••Green Point,Waterkant St Bedes Rd Bedes St

Mouille Park Rd Park SLEEPING EATING SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES INFORMATION Wilton Manor...... Village Lodge...... House ontheHill...... De WaterkantPlace...... De WaterkantHouse...... Cape Standard...... Big Blue...... Waterfront BoatCompany...... Table BayDiving...... (see7) ...... Nelson MandelaGateway...... Clock Tower...... Rennies Travel...... (see3) Exclusive Books...... Clock TowerCentre...... Cape TownTourism...... (see2) American Express...... Point

16 Alexandra Pl Alexandra A

M 6

Richmond Rd Richmond

Antrim Rd Kiewiet

La

Springbok Rd Springbok

Ocean View Dr View Ocean Hill Rd Hill

Romney Rd Sollum Rd Pl Rothesay

(350m)

Signal Beach Rd 9 14 13 12 11 10

Hill 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 F2 F3 G3 G3 F2 G3 F3 B3 E5 C4 E5 E5 B4 D4

B

St Georges Rd Georges St

Western Blvd Western Main Rd Dr Peters Bill

T w e l v e A p o s t l e s SHOPPING ENTERTAINMENT DRINKING Green PointMarket...... 's JazzCafé...... (see 2) Green Dolphin...... Computicket...... (see 3) Nose WineBar...... (see15) Buena VistaSocialCafé...... Belthazar...... Alba Lounge...... Willoughby &Co...... Wakame...... One.Waterfront...... Melissa's...... Gionvanni's DeliWorld...... Café Neo...... Andiamo......

Stephan Way High Level Rd Level High Clyde Rd Clyde Common

Croxteth Rd

Braeside Rd Green 20 Point Surrey Pl Surrey

14

Cheviot Pl Pine Rd Pine

Bay Rd

Green

Point Wigtown Rd Wigtown 61 M

Vlei Rd C

26 25 Rd Varney's 24 23 22 21 20 19 18 17 16 15 Ὀ Rd Sonnenberg Fritz Stadium D3 F2 F2 F1 B1 F3 D3 C3 A1 E5 D3 F2 Green

Point Merriman Rd Merriman

Cav

Leinster Rd Leinster alcade

York Rd 17 12

Military Rd Rd Metropolitan Golf Course Schotsche

Voetboog 26 Kloof

Rd 24 ὈὈ ὈὈ lonelyplanet.com

Upper Portswood Rd Astana St Blvd Western

D Vesperdene Rd Rd Main Portside 8 Green Point 18

Track Braemar Rd Braemar Longmarket St Longmarket ὈὈ ὈὈ Viewpoint 61 M lonelyplanet.com

Ὀ Fort Wynyard Rd Wynyard Fort

13 Loader St Loader

Business

Foreshore

School Water Beach Rd Beach

kant Granger E St

10 Portswood Rd

Waterfront St 11 CAPE TOWN •• Green Point, Waterkant &Waterfront CAPETOWN••Green Point,Waterkant Dixon St HudsonVos St St

Ebenezer Rd

Dock Rd Granger 15 Cape Quarter

Bay

Shopping 62 Rd Somerset M

Centre

Prestwich St Prestwich Robinson Dock Strand St Strand Dock Rd Vessels Marina Market

Napier St Small

Alfred St Sq

Chiappini St 6 Waterkant

F

Western Blvd Western 3 Alfred M Basin ὈὈ ὈὈ 6

1 19 West Quay West

Lower Bree St 25

Port Rd Port 7 East Quay East Quay 4

Quay 5 23 Mechau St Mechau

Loop St 21 22

Fish Quay Fish Jetty 1 Jetty Riebeeck St Riebeeck Alfred St 4 Quay 6

2

Thibault Hans Hans 5

Sq

Strijdom Ave Strijdom Quay

Fish Jetty 2 Jetty Dock Rd Dock

ὈὈ ὈὈ Cross Berth Cross East Pier

Collier Jetty

Quay 7 G

Long St Tulbagh

Sq

Victoria Pier East Coen Steytler Ave Steytler Coen Basin 0 0

Pier South Arm Pl N 2 N 2 Lower Long St E Berth

Heerengracht D Berth

Duncan Rd Duncan

Table Bay Blvd Bay Table Elbow C Berth Salazar H

Sq Table Bay Blvd Bay Table Duncan Dock D F Malan 0.1 miles B Berth To Robben 200 m (12km) Island 425

4 6 1 3 2 St 5 SOUTH AFRICA AFRICA SOUTH SOUTH AFRICA ful intheworld.The36-hectare landscaped ture, A superb exampleof Dutch architec- Cape GROOT CONSTANTIA p430). (see bus Town Cape or hopontheCitySightseeing August andmid-October. vegetation slopes. cloaking themountain with the492hectares of tomerge seems almostimperceptibly section to6pmApr-Aug) Sep-Mar, Dr,Newlands;adult/childUS$3.40/0.70; Rhodes % Town’s Cape Location anduniquefloracombinetomake KIRSTENBOSCH BOTANICAL GARDENS oldest vineyardsandwineestates. hometoSouthAfrica’s wealthy Constantia, toRondebosch,ing through Newlandsand andmov-areas of WoodstockandObservatory Suburbs, beginningwiththebohemian, edgy PeakDevil’s willbringyoutotheSouthern Heading west aroundTable and Mountain Southern Suburbs hasnodirectSandy Bay accessroads. you don’twantto. Like manysuch beaches, there’s nopressure totake if yourclothesoff It’s aparticularlybeautifulstretch of and sand Town’s nudistbeach ground. andgaystamping with asmallswellandsoutheasterly wind. beach breaks tide isbestathigh (mostlyrights) Surfing atLlandudno(Map pp416–17 ) onthe LLANDUDNO &SANDYBAY BEACHES side. windy, andthewater isdecidedlyonthecool particularly onweekends. Thebeach isoften drive of thecity centre socanget crowded, most popularbeaches. It’swithin15minutes’ (Map Bay Camps pp420–1 ) isone of thecity’s asabackdrop,andsoftMountain white sand, TwelveWith thespectacular Apostlesof Table CAMPS BAY BEACH gay beach andNo4isforfamilies. models andconfirmednarcissists,No3isthe has itthatNo1and2beaches are for Town’stopsunbathingspots.LocalloreCape always sheltered are fromthewind,these 426 (MapNearby isSandyBay pp416–17 ), Cape The gardensare mid- attheirbestbetween You canhire arikki( p437 ) toget youhere 021-799 8783,Sat&Sun021-7614916;www.sanbi.org; Groot Constantia CAPE TOWN •• Activities CAPE TOWN••Activities botanical gardens amongthemostbeauti-

Mp pp416-17 ; (Map fynbos

Mp pp416-17; (Map (finebush) % h 021-794 8am-7pm 1040; www.circelaunches;adult/childUS$4.70/1.30) con; adult/childUS$1/0.30; se p430). (see ing, swimmingandjumping. gorges) climbing,hik- abseiling, alsoentails clambering intoandoutof or kloofs (cliffs Town.Thesportofing) tripsaroundCape a ropeoff thetopof Table Mountain. ifyouwanttoshimmy 112mdown one tosee 1Vredenburg Ln,CityBowl;US$40) .abseilafrica.co.za; AbseilAfrica Abseiling &Kloofing ACTIVITIES at thePrincessAnneInterchange ontheM3. tearoom. Theexitforthememorialis pleasant thememorialthere’sranges a beyond.Behind Flatsandthemountain memorial totheCape ThereMountain. are viewsfromthe sweeping prime minister isontheeastern slopesof Table pp420–1 ) totheminingmagnate andformer Corner, thisimpressive Modelled after thearch atLondon’sHydePark RHODES MEMORIAL museum The beautifullyrestored homestead isnowa around theworldandwere acclaimed. highly wineswere18th century,Constantia exported be.you toescapethecrowds,ifneed Inthe for isbigenough tour groupsbuttheestate Not surprisingly,itcanbecomebusywith Apr, to5pmMay-Nov) Constantia; tastingsinclglassUS$3.40; 5128; www.grootconstantia.co.za; GrootConstantiaRd,High 1½-hour sunset cruises (US$24). cruises 1½-hour sunset recommendedof includingthe highly cruises, boats.co.za; Shop7,Quay5,Waterfront) Company shouldnotbe missed. Bay into Table fromthewater,Mountain acruise If onlytotake inthepanoramicviewof Table HARBOUR CRUISES ings. Thecheapest is inthemorn- usually withguaranteed sailings daily, cruises Three companiesrunthese seals. of Islandbecause itscolonyof fur Cape as Seal toDuikerlar dailycruises Island,alsoknown harbouryoucancatch regu-From HoutBay’s CRUISES ISLAND DUIKER Cruises Another reliable operatorisDayTrippers Abseil Africaalsooffer kloofing (canyon-

(

Mp pp424-5; (Map %

021-795 5140;www.museums.org.za/groot- Mp pp428-9; (Map is set inbeautifulgrounds. isset % h Circe Launches 021-418 5806; www.waterfront 021-418 5806;www.waterfront 10am-5pm) granite memorial granite % 021-424 4760;www lonelyplanet.com offers avariety Waterfront Boat Waterfront h . 9am-6pm Dec- (

% . 021-790 isthe (Map 0388; www.downhilladventures.com; cnrOrange&KloofSts, www.tablebaydiving.com; Shop7,Quay5,Waterfront) US$98, while a summit hike or sunrise/sunset walkisUS$43. orsunrise/sunset US$98, whileasummithike tothemountaincosts Trails. Anovernighttrip Hoerikwaggo Runsitsownversionofthe 6537; www.kabbadventures.com) and citycentre transfers. requirements. Thefee ofUS$55includes allrefreshments orclimbtoyour Enthusiasticguideswilltailorahike .co.za) adventures. Tryamountain-bike ridedown Gardens) Thrill-meisters Cycling lonelyplanet.com launched thefirst of itsplanned suite of three are thisroute. cliffs, taking ently sheer car, perched like goatsonappar- mountain up. Thehikers fromthecable straight yousee andheads behind thelowercablewaystation Indian Windows mended forexperiencedclimbers only, isthe sun and,formuch of theway,avertical slog. tothe warned thattheroute isexposed easy. Be itfairly tothelower, taking cableway station ward. Ittakes about2½hours fromtheupper Gorge and foolhardyhikers diehere year. ever can becometreacherous quickly.Unprepared isovermountain andconditions 1000mhigh inmindthatthe how easyitistoget lost.Bear havetain identified,perhapsindicating been More than300routes upanddownthemoun- CLIMBING TABLE MOUNTAIN Forth Venture Adventures African Kabbo the capriciousweatherconditions. it’s notwithoutitsdangers, chief of which is is ahiker’s but androckclimber’sparadise, spineof PeninsulaThe mountainous theCape &RockClimbing Hiking Table BayDiving Pro Divers city, thatisthebigdraw. diving inGansbaii,some150kmsoutheastof dives, it’stheshark-cageand boat although TownoffersCape anumberof excellentshore Diving (US$47). Mountain onTablefrom thelowercablecarstation .prodiverssa.co.za; 88B Main Rd, Sea Point) Rd,Sea .prodiverssa.co.za; 88BMain In 2005 Table National Park Mountain Another option,fartrickierandrecom- None of theroutes iseasybutthe A coupleof goodlocaldive operators: walkontheCityBowlsideisstraightfor- offers avarietyof cyclingtripsand Mp pp420-1; (Map ( % Mp pp424-5; (Map route fromdirectly thatstarts CAPETOWN••Activities Downhill Adventures 021-556 4150;www.ventureforth % ( % 021-433 0472;www 021-701 0867,072024 % 021-419 8822; (

% Platteklip Platteklip 021-422 9204) ing except on sand dunes. ing except onsand whichalways sandboarding, islike snowboard- a steamer wetsuitandbootiesare required. tic side. Water temperatures aslow8°Cmean only. Ingeneral, thebestsurfisalong theAtlan- for beginners to3m-plusmonsters forexperts ing possibilities,fromgentle shore breaks ideal The PeninsulaCape hasplentyof surf- fantastic &Sandboarding Surfing reserve’s the the southernendof Contact thereserve. tion atthebasicProtea andRestiohutsat Pointentryfee) withaccommoda- the Cape ThecostisUS$12(notincluding the reserve. 33.8kmcircularroute a spectacular through night ofCape GoodHopeTrail,which traces tobookwalkthetwo-day/one- You’ll need THE CAPEOFGOODHOPE go down.Alwaysbringatorch (flashlight). people gatheratthesummittowatch thesun whenmany ommended onafull-moonnight, rec- Townand ishighly you candoinCape Lion’s Head (Map pp420–1 ) isoneof the best The 2.2kmhike fromKloof Nektothepeakof LION’S HEAD huts,shouldbeavailable.ing incomfortable the opposite direction (ToptoTip), andsleep- By theendof 2007aluxuryversion, runningin and campingatfixed spotsinthenationalpark. bag, carrying yourownfood,gear andsleeping hike Pointwillinvolvenight beginningatCape Top Trailshould berunning.Thissix-day,five- accommodation of avery standard. high includes allmeals,portering of luggage and ondoubleoccupancyof(based aroom),which ( opposite ). ThetrailcostsUS$250perperson slopes toKirstenbosch Gardens Botanical summit before descendingdowntheeastern lower northernslopesof tothe themountain theCityBowlto through and proceeding fully guidedhike attheWaterfront starting Point. 80km orsofromtheCityBowltoCape tohike andeventually onthemountain, sleep signed toallowvisitors, forthefirst time,to Trails Hoerikwaggo reefs thatholdavery bigswell. surfmecca, offering anassortment ofCape’s And ifyoudon’t wanttoget wetthere’s ofBy thestart 2007theless-pampered Tip to Kommetjie The three-day Table Trailisa Mountain forfurtherdetails. Buffelfontein Visitors Centre Visitors Buffelfontein , pronouncedKommi-kee, isthe

(www.hoerikwaggotrails.co.za) Downhill Adventures (

% 021-780 de- 427

SOUTH AFRICA AFRICA SOUTH ὈὈὈὈ ὈὈὈὈ ὈὈὈὈ ὈὈὈὈ ὈὈὈὈ

SOUTH AFRICA 428 4 6 1 3 2 5 CENTRAL CAPETOWN Slave Lodge...... Africa Café...... 95 Keerom...... EATING Urban Chic...... St Paul'sB&BGuestHouse.. Long StBackpackers...... Inn LongStreet...... Daddy LongLegsHotel...... Apartments...... Daddy LongLegs Cape HeritageHotel...... Cape DiamondHotel...... SLEEPING Signal Hill...... ...... Houses ofParliament...... District SixMuseum...... Castle ofGoodHope...... Bo-Kaap Museum...... Abseil Africa...... SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES SAA-Netcare TravelClinic.... Rennies Travel...... Mozambican Consulate...... German Consulate...... General PostOffice...... French Consulate...... Dutch Consulate...... Clarke's Bookshop...... Hospital...... Christian BarnardMemorial Catwalk TV...... Cape TownTourism...... Canadian Consulate...... British Consulate...... (see1) Botswana Consulate...... INFORMATION CAPE TOWN••CentralCapeTown Table Mountain National Park: Signal Hill ABCD

New 31 30 Church29 28 St27 26 25 24 23 22 21 20 19 18 Carisbrook 17 16 15 14 13 12 11 10

9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Merriman Rd Merriman 19

D3 D5 D5 C5 D5 C5 D4 D3 E5 E5 C2 B1 E5 F6 G5 C3 C5 F3 E4 E3 C6 F4 C6 E3 D5 E4 E3 E4 C5 D4 F3 Whitford St Whitford

Lion St

Rd Park La Park Translux...... (see 54) Taxi Rank...... Shared TaxiMainRank...... SA Roadlink...... (see 54) Intercape Mainliner...... (see 54) Homeland Shuttle&Tours... Greyhound...... (see 54) Golden AcreTerminal...... Bus Terminus...... Monkeybiz...... ...... African Image...... Zula SoundBar...... Snap...... Marimba...... Marco's AfricanPlace...... Mama Africa...... City Hall...... Artscape...... Orchard Bank...... Marvel...... Gallery Bar...... (see29) Savoy Cabbage...... Royale Eatery...... Royale Eatery...... Madame Zingara...... (see34) Lola's...... Ginja...... Frieda's...... Crush...... Café AfricanImage...... Birds Café...... TRANSPORT SHOPPING ENTERTAINMENT DRINKING Cara Lazuli...... Voetboog

Rd Carisbrook St Carisbrook Schotsche Kloof Lion St Kloof St Jamieson Rd Pentz Rd

Bryant St Yu Buitensingle St Buitensingle ὈὈὈὈ ὈὈὈὈ ὈὈὈὈ

suf suf Ella St

62 Jordan St August St M

58 57 56 55 54 53 52 51 50 49 48 47 46 45 44 43 Service42 St 41 40 39 38 37 36 35 34 33 32

Dve F4 G4 C6 F4 G3 D3 E4 E4 C5 D5 G2 D3 D5 E4 H3 D5 C6 D3 C5 C5 C5 D3 E2 E4 C5 E4 D4 Longmarket St Longmarket 20 Viewpoint

Orange St 28 Carl St

42 St Buiten

Bloem St Bloem

Grey's Pass Grey's

Church St Church

South AfricanMuseum Longmarket St Longmarket 34

& Planetarium 56 Pepper St Pepper

ὈὈ ὈὈ

26 24

Vreden Dean St Dean

8

Museum St Museum

38 St Loader 15

14

Leeuwen St Leeuwen b Cemetery 10

Buitengracht St Tana Baru

u 39 Loop St

rg La Wale St Wale

50

40 Water

Dorp St Dorp

46 kant 49 Bo-Kaap St 43 30 Chiappini St 53 29

6 Long St

St Stephen's Government Ave 27 Rose St St Loader De Smit St

Keerom St

Jarvis St Jarvis lonelyplanet.com

Church Queen Victoria St Bree St Van Riebeeck St Berg Vos St

Company's

32 La Hout

SA National Dixon St St Gardens Moreland Sq Gallery 25 National Library 31

of SouthAfrica Hudson St

Somerset Rd Somerset

Longmarket St Longmarket

23 St Strand Waterkant St Waterkant

5

Heritage Sq

Shortmarket St Shortmarket 41

Bouquet St Bouquet Liddle St Wale St Wale Hope St 37 Cobern St 47 ὈὈ ὈὈ

lonelyplanet.com Hout La Hout Waterkant Burg St Napier St Chiappini St 33 Long St Alfred St

St George's

51 Cathedral Church St Church Loop St St Castle

Parliament St 7 18

Roeland St Roeland Greenmarket 45 St Waterkant Plein St M Bree St Buitengracht St 6 Sq Grouse 4

La H EF

21

Hospital St Hospital Bureau St Bureau

52 Lelie La 59

M Burg St 35 Blvd Western 2 Jerry St CAPETOWN••CentralCapeTown

3

Commercial St Commercial

Spin St Spin Mechau St Mechau

ὈὈ ὈὈ Barrack St Barrack 12 36 11

Church Long St

22

Mostert St Mostert Loop St Sq Old Mutual St Prestwich

Building Adderley St St Riebeeck 13 City Bowl Albertus St Albertus

Alfred St Plein St 58

Lower Burg St Corporation St St George's Mall 9 Trafalgar

17 Lower Lo Parade St Ave Strijdom Hans Castle St Castle Thibault Pl

ὈὈὈ Buitenkant St ὈὈὈ ὈὈὈ ὈὈ ὈὈ

Sq op St Strand St Strand 1 Grand Pde Canterbury St

55

Longmarket St Longmarket

Mostert St Mostert Lower Long St Darling St Darling Jetty Sq Train Station Tulbagh 57 Cape Town

Sq

54 Coen Steytler Ave Steytler Coen

Caledon St Caledon Primrose St Pier Pl Merriman N Heerengracht 2 G

Sq Lower Long St

Werf Cape TownInternational

La Convention Centre Old Marine Dve Marine Old

16 M Blvd Bay Table 4 48 200m 0.1miles 0 0

Salazar Sq Table Bay Blvd Bay Table

R102

Hertzog Blvd Hertzog

Sir Lowry Rd Lowry Sir Duncan Rd Duncan 60 M

Civic Ave Ὀ Ὀ Jan Smuts D F Malan St 44 429

4 6 1 3 2 5 St SOUTH AFRICA AFRICA SOUTH SOUTH AFRICA run at roughly half-hourly intervals between between intervals half-hourly run atroughly services on afineday.Thehop-on,hop-off Cape Town’s biggest jazz event, held at the end of March. heldattheendofMarch. Cape Town’s biggestjazzevent, 4122 5651; www.capetowninternationaljazzfestival.com) whale-watching (inseason). whale-watching around US$52andincludeCapePoint,theWinelands ofthetoursincludecycling. Mosttourscost Many .co.za) Cape Town International JazzFestival TownInternational Cape TownFestival Cape TownPride Cape The mainparadesare heldon31Decemberand2January. Karnaval Year New Town Cape A shortlist: FESTIVALS &EVENTS Sunpath Tours Grassroute Ferdinand’s Tours&Adventures Day Trippers Tours Walking Charlotte’s Andulela peak season. in 9.30am and3.30pm,withextraservices child US$12/5.50) Town Cape The double-decker bustour BusTours City &General offer inandaroundthecity. first stoptofindoutabout themanytours on TownTourism( Cape p419 TOURS ) shouldbeyour to Atlantis,northof thecity centre, isUS$67. trip surfing course forUS$47.Asandboarding cnr Orange&KloofSts,Gardens) p432; (Map 430 townships tours(half/fulldayUS$39/61). operatorsof tours.co.za) Oneofthemostexperienced of , onthewaytoKommetjie. of Masiphumelele, tourofthetownship youonawalking Swatbooi willtake TheebullientCharlotte [email protected]) early March throughouttheCityBowland attheWaterfront. early March festival runsforthree weeksfrom festival.co.za) Thisarts the Cape. thought tohavebeenusedbytheindigenouspeopleof around thepeninsula. Discovertheancientsunpaths offascinatingtoursandhikes aseries US$13-44) Offering where theMotherCityfliesitsrainbowcolourswithpride. inFebruary A10-day gayandlesbianevent pride.co.za) adventures. innovative companycanarrangeanumberofoffbeat wineries andincludeslunch. wineries inatleastfour Winelandstourtakes backpacker-focussed 072 -322482;[email protected]; toursUS$45)This CAPE TOWN••Tours ( ( % % % ( % ( 072-417 6800; www.sunpath.co.za; tours 072-417 6800;www.sunpath.co.za; 021-422 0388;www.downhilladventures.com; % 021-790 2592;www.andulela.com) This is good for a quick orientation isgoodforaquickorientation 021-511 1784;www.hyltonross.co.za; adult/ ( ( 021-511 4766;www.daytrippers % % ( % 021-706 1006;www.grassroute 083-274 3579;www.capetown 021-465 1242;www.capetown offers anintroductory ( % ( 083-982 5692; % ( % City Sightseeing 021-696 9538) 021-913 8800, ( % 021- simply furnished and spaciousroomshave yard where youcanrelax. ceilingsandthere’shigh avine-shadedcourt- p 182Bree423 4420;[email protected]; St;s/dUS$20/34; mosaics. a leafy,quietcourtyarddecorated withfunky in each, accommodationisarranged around 14 smallflats,withfourbedsandabathroom St, butthisoneremains thebest.Inablockof US$11/16/22) 209LongSt;dm/s/d 0615; www.longstreetbackpackers.co.za; givejob andfunkylights itsomestyle. cony thatallroomsaccess,andarecent paint thick of LongSt.There’s awrap-aroundbal- vibe atthisbackpackers despite itbeinginthe out/with bathroomUS$32/39; 230LongSt;dmUS$10,dwith- [email protected]; Inn LongStreet BUDGET City Bowl is often anextraUS$3.40toUS$5.50perday. mentioned rates alsoincludebreakfast. Parking many placesare fullybooked. Unlessotherwise of January pricescandoubleand andatEaster, school holidaysfrommid-Decembertotheend here.Remember locationiseverything During SLEEPING luxury and wanttoself-cater. St, anideal choice ifyoucrave hotel-suite price)at263Long stylish apartments (same is anythingbutboring. Theyalsooffers super arethese artistsnothoteliers! here –butastay There’s nowhere toputyourluggage–hey, room designedbypopgroupFreshly Ground. room (withamike intheshower),and ward!Favouriteshospital includethekaraoke The results range frombohemian garret toa reign todesigntheboudoirs of theirdreams. is whatyouget whenartistsare given free US$100; 3074; www.daddylonglegs.co.za; 134LongSt;Citybowl;r BreakfastMountain. andparkingare extra. There’s a rooftop Jacuzzi withaviewtoTable building such asthewood-panelledfloors. new hotel thathaskept features of itsArtDeco Sts, CityBowl;s/dfromUS$50/71; &Parliament cnrLongmarket www.capediamondhotel.co.za; DiamondHotel Cape MIDRANGE o St Paul’s B&BGuestHouse Long StBackpackers ) Aquietalternative toabackpackers. The i ) Thisboutiquehotel/art installation Daddy LongLegs Backpackers dotthelengthof Long Book accommodationBook online at lonelyplanet.com

Mp pp428-9; (Map

Mp pp428-9; (Map Mp pp428-9; (Map pi (Map pp428-9; (Map Mp pp428-9; (Map

pi

lonelyplanet.com ) There’s acalm % % Agreat-value ) 021-424 1660; 021-461 2519; % % % 021-423 /fax 021- 021-422 www.hippotique.co.za; 5-9Parkwww.hippotique.co.za; s/dUS$110/162; La;Gardens; colourful African-Zen lookatthisappealing colourful African-Zen suite rooms onneighbouring Kohling St. withen- ant dorms,andachic guesthouse up atthisstylishplacethatoffers bothpleas- US$86/108; 19CarstensSt,Tamboerskloof;towncity.co.za/villa; s/dfrom chic.co.za; cnrLong&Pepper Sts,CityBowl;rUS$167; Book accommodationBook online at lonelyplanet.com velopment of 18th-centurybuildings. hotel that’spartof theHeritage Square rede- Dutch styleofthe Cape thiselegantboutique from US$178; -12Bree St;s/dfromUS$111/161,ste www.capeheritage.co.za; lonelyplanet.com erty offers spacious,stylish roomswithasmall pais there’s aplunge poolin the courtyard. TV; street. Allroomshave CDplayers and satel lite is d/stefromUS$94/122; kleyhouse.com; 3BGordonSt,Gardens; three 19th-centuryterrace houses. sheltering behindthefaçadeofguesthouse, Villa An African MIDRANGE US$37/43; dm/s/d withshared bathroomUS$12/24/30;guesthouses/d 81NewChurchSt; 0200; www.capetownbackpackers.com; just chilling outinthechic en-suite rooms. or Thursday Africandrummingsessions night beitalivelything foreveryone, timeatthe a relaxed placewithsome- andcomfortable Town’s longest-running backpackers remains bathroom US$12/34/41,s/dUS$40/48; 74NewChurchSt,Tamboerskloof;.co.za; dm/s/dwithshared aroundthecorner.suite rooms intwohouses something quieter, optfortheexcellenten- bar anddeckoverlooking Table For Mountain. with much of onitslively theactionfocussed One of Town’spremier Cape partyhostels, shared bathroomUS$12/34;guesthousedUS$50; campsitesUS$7,dm/dwith 11HofSt,Gardens; .ashanti.co.za; Lodge Ashanti BUDGET &Around Gardens iscurrentlyBar avery hipwatering hole. new boutiquehotel. ThegroundfloorGallery towards Table feature Mountain atthisstylish i Cape Heritage Hotel Hotel Heritage Cape Dunkley House TownBackpackers Cape Backpack Hippo BoutiqueHotel Hippo Urban Chic ) Roomswithfabulousfloor-to-ceiling views ) Ultra-stylish guesthouse onaquiet Ultra-stylishguesthouse pi is pai (Map p432; (Map

(Map pp428-9; (Map ) Thisappealing boutiqueprop-

Mp p432; (Map ) Mp p432; (Map Thebackpacker hostel grows

) (Map p432; (Map CAPETOWN••Sleeping There’s a sophisticated and % Gracious service matches Graciousservice ) Mp pp428-9; (Map

Mp p432; (Map 021-423 4530;www.backpackers % %

Mp p432; (Map % % 021-423 2164;www.cape 021-423 2086;www.urban 021-462 7650;www.dun 021-423 8721;www pis % % % 021-423 2500; 021-424 4646; /fax 021-426 pis pa Cape Cape )

) spacious andtastefully decorated rooms,all Town’s finestboutiqueproperties,witheight backpackers.hostel.com; 7Vesperdenebackpackers.hostel.com; Rd,Green Point;dm/s/d Big Blue GREEN POINT&WATERFRONT Coast Atlantic ‘crash pads’(single/doubleUS$38/54). US$88/128.50, aswellpopularbudget-level ments inthearea kickingoff atsingle/double nishings. There’s alsoawiderange of apart- and roomswithglossymagazine-style fur- the heartof thegayvillage, withaplunge pool s/dUS$63/97; Waterkant; Sts, cnrNapier&Waterkant 2500; www.dewaterkant.com; lodge’s goodThairestaurant Soho. spot forgueststocheck each otherout,asisthe somewhat cramped.Therooftop poolisaprime areRooms atthischic guesthouse smartif 49NapierSt;s/dUS$100/165; .thevillagelodge.com; a lovely viewfromtheroof. Guests are thekitchen free andthere’s touse tique decorated roomsoffers goodvalue. i 35DixonSt;s/dfromUS$67/81; www.dewaterkantplace.com; Place MIDRANGE Waterkant flowers, asmallpoolandfaultless service. There’s alsofree internet access,fresh fruitand with balconiesandbeautifullytiledbathrooms. with breakfast US$343; d Cres, Higgovale; 38Kensington www.kensingtonplace.co.za; European artworks. furnishings (includingking-sizebeds)with six luxuryroomsmixlocallyhandcrafted of tranquillityaswelldesignerheaven. The isahaven Bay cading downthehillside,Alta dUS$282; Invermark Cres, Higgoval; Alta Bay TOP END the experience. enhance decent-sized poolandcourteous staff magnate. Finelinens,antiquefurnishings,a ing agrandhomebuiltin1905forshipping pais 3MontroseAve,.abbey.co.za; Oranjezicht;s/dfromUS$134/173; the DVDplayerandmusicsystem. kitchen. Gadget lovers with willalsobepleased De Waterkant House De Waterkant Lodge Village Place Kensington Abbey Manor ) This appealing guesthouse withfive Thisappealingguesthouse an-

Mp p432; (Map

Mp pp424-5; (Map ) A luxurious guesthouse occupy- Aluxuriousguesthouse (Map pp424-5; (Map

Mp p432; (Map %

pais

Mp pp424-5; (Map is 021-487 8800;www.altabay.com;12 Mp p432; (Map %

Mp pp424-5; (Map 021-439 0807; www.bigblue % % )

A pleasant B&Bin Apleasant pais /fax 021-4211106;www 021-462 2935;www % ) % Oneof Cape 021-424 4744; 021-419 2476; % ais 021-409 ) Cas- 431

) SOUTH AFRICA AFRICA SOUTH ὈὈὈὈὈὈὈ ὈὈὈὈὈὈὈ ὈὈὈὈὈὈὈ ὈὈὈὈὈὈὈ ὈὈὈὈὈὈὈ

SOUTH AFRICA

432 Hastings St Hastings

4 6 1 3 2

5 GARDENS, ORANJEZICHT&ZONNEBLOEM Belle Ombre Rd Ombre Belle

Warren St Warren

Burnside Rd Burnside Glen

C

res 15

Lee uwe Derwent Rd Derwent

Woodside Rd Woodside

hof

n Oranjezicht&Zonnebloem CAPE TOWN••Gardens, 8 Cres

SLEEPING SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES INFORMATION Museum...... South AfricanJewish SA NationalGallery...... Mountain ClubofSouthAfrica...... Company's Gardens...... Cape TownHolocaustCentre...... (see6) Exclusive Books...... Africa TravelCentre...... (see11) Alta Bay...... Abbey Manor...... onilAvnue...... B1 Downhill Adventures......

Invermark Cres Invermark Glen St Lorentz De Kloof Nek Rd

ὈὈ ὈὈ Kloof St ὈὈ

Cres St Hof

Kensington Rd Tamboerskloof RdLeeuwenvoetAC Rd

Camp St Camp Woodburn St Woodburn St Nicol 22

9 Upper Union Upper

19

18 St Carstens

Oranjezicht

St Rosmead Ave Rd Hillside 17

Molteno St Rd Eaton Upper Buitengracht St

Chesterfield Rd Chesterfield Buxton Ave New

Roseberry Ave Roseberry Glencoe Ave Glencoe

Garfield Rd Garfield Union St Union Church St

Camp St Camp Kloof St 12

Hof St St Weltevreden

Montrose Ave Montrose ὈὈὈ ὈὈὈ La Park ὈὈὈ

11

Wilkinson St Wilkinson

Marmion Rd Marmion 14

Alexandra Ave Alexandra Belmont Ave Belmont 23

Molteno St 1 Belvedere Ave Belvedere

8 7 5 4 3 2 1 Carisbrook 6

Gardens St Reservoir Forest Rd Forest Molteno

A4 B4 C1 C1 C1 C1 B1 Faure St De Waal 26 21

Rheede St Rheede Bridle Rd Bridle Park

24

Dorman St Dorman B Reservoir Hilton Rd Hilton 10

EATING akak...... B1 Backpack...... Wild Things...... (see 19) Vida eCafé...... Mount NelsonHotel...... Melissa's...... Manna Epicure...... Café Gainsbourg...... Aubergine...... Kensington Place...... Hippo BoutiqueHotel...... Dunkley House...... Cape TownBackpackers...... Ashanti Lodge...... An AfricanVilla...... 20 Beckham

7 Orange St

Gardens Football

Annandale Rd Annandale 3 Club Sidmouth Ave Sidmouth

Upper Orange St Lodge Rd St

Pass Grey's ὈὈ Ὀ ὈὈ ὈὈ ὈὈ ὈὈ

Moray Pl

School Prince St

Montreal Hatfield St Museum M St 3 Company's

Gordon Gardens

Government Ave 13 Ave

St 2 Queen

Boardwalk

16 Breda St St Victoria St Mill St

Dunkley Paddock 6 to trail St Scott 5

Deer Park Barnet St Gallery

4 Ave

Vrede St Vrede Ave Vredehoek Dunkley 21 20 19 18 17 16

15 14 13 12 11 10 Schoonder St Wandel St

9 Sq

Bouquet St Bouquet

B1 B2 A2 A2 A2 C2 A3 B1 C2 B1 B2 A1 Highland Ave Highland

Ὀ Ὀ Rd

Fitzherbert

Wesley

Davenport Rd Davenport St Hope La TRANSPORT ENTERTAINMENT DRINKING ecr ie...... D2 Mercury Live...... Le CapMotorcycleHire...... Labia onKloof...... (see1) Labia...... Relish...... Planet...... (see 20) Café Vespa......

Rocklands Ave Rocklands Plein St

Yeoville Rd Yeoville St Roeland

Jutland Ave Jutland Bradwell Rd Bradwell

Ludlow Rd Ludlow Rd Rugley Virginia Ave

Commercial St Commercial

Deer Park Dr West Dr Park Deer Glynn St Glynn Bu

itenkant St

Deer Park Dr East Dr Park Deer Clare St Clairwood School St Barrack Upper 0.2miles 300m 0 0 Canter Chelsea Ave Solan

Vredehoek bury St

Ave St James St Rd Stethoek Rd Stethoek Wexford Rd Wexford ὈὈ ὈὈ ὈὈ ὈὈ

lonelyplanet.com Roeland St Roeland

Chelmsford Rd School Harrington St Drury La D Exner Ave Zonnebloem Cant 59 M

erbury St St Longmarket 26 25 24 23 22 Bellair Ave St Constitution De Villiers St B1 B1 B1 A2 25 www.houseonthehillct.co.za; 25Leinster Rd,Green Point;d/tr www.houseonthehillct.co.za; Book accommodationBook online at lonelyplanet.com % guesthouse withsixspaciousrooms. The guesthouse pais .oonkloof.co.za; 92KloofRd,BantryBay;dfromUS$200; friendly atmosphere. gardenand and enjoyitsgrandhallway,Zen of backpackingscene–come theCapetonian paintedbrightly hostel remains aleadinglight with shared bathroomUS$11/30/36,dUS$43; lonelyplanet.com and budget, withaparticularly strongselec- are taste placestosuit practically everyone’s Dining intheMotherCityisapleasure. There EATING and gym,are amplecompensation. the goodfacilities,includingabigindoor pool cheapest roomsdon’thave viewsbut fullsea (per person US$51)nexttothetennis court. rooms also acoupleof decent,self-catering reached byaropebridge over aravine. There’s orthecontemporary DeckHouse, main house option withachoice of 16roomsineither the from US$160/203; Rd,TheGlen;s/d www.campsbayretreat.com; 7Chilworth as wellaspaciouscommunalkitchen. en-suite double roomswithgiantrainshowers, There’sthe seafront. asix-bed dormandthree Point,steps awayfrom budget optioninSea 1 RocklandsRd;dm/dUS$12/54; Point Sea TownBackpackers Cape SEA POINT&CAMPS BAY edgy, contemporary roomsupstairs. beachhouse chic roomsdownstairs, ormore Town’snicest,offersof Cape whitewashed pis 3RomneyRd,Green.capestandard.co.za; Point;s/dUS$100/134; check thewebsite forfurtherdetails. also runabudget onCroxteth guesthouse Rd– Guests are thekitchen. free Theowners touse of roomsisindividuallydecorated. theseven pis .wiltonmanor.co.za; Rd,Green Point;s/dfromUS$74/81; 15Croxteth player. andCD style, withtheaddedbonusof aTV which are very furnishedinAfrican pleasantly ger hostels. Bookaheadforthefive rooms isafinealternativecatering house tothebig- bathroomUS$35/42,d/trUS$35/52) sharing O onKloof Standard Cape Camps BayRetreat Camps Wilton Manor House ontheHill /fax 021-4260200;www.capetownbackpackers.com; ) ) This secluded boutiquehotel, one Thissecluded A stylish guesthouse where Astylishguesthouse each

) Mp pp420-1; (Map pais Agorgeous contemporary

Mp pp424-5; (Map

Mp pp424-5; (Map CAPETOWN••Eating

(Map (Map pp424-5 ;

(Map (Map pp420-1 ;

is % ) % % Thisisasplendid 021-439 2081;www ) 021-434 7869;www 021-430 3060;www Easily thebest Easily % %

is (Map (Map pp420-1 ; Thisself- 021-439 3902; 021-437 0485; ) This

you comeforbreakfast oralate-night coffee with two sections. Unless you’rewith two sections. a committed at thisbohemian, crowd-pleasing restaurant h 9 ; handmade pastas. prices are very reasonable, particularly forthe Given House. the qualityofRhodes foodthe restaurantstylish Italian roundthebackof Mon-Sat) City Bowl;mainsUS$7-13; 95 Keerom RESTAURANTS scones. cious homemadepies,strudlesandchunky foodincludingdeli- style matches theartisan City Bowl;mainsUS$5.50) can village stew orarange of healthysalads. cloths.table SampleTanzanian fishcurry,Afri- sporting groovy African-printcushionsand 3pm Sat) Church St,CityBowl;mainsUS$4-6; food such aslasagne. andcomfort wraps,salads line insandwiches, ing area of atthebase Bree St.Theydoafine convivial caféinthelouche butup-and-com- chic isthelookatthiscavernous andhighly Bowl; mainsUS$4-5; watch thepassingparade. of passage onLongSt.Grabastreet and table avisittopastel-paintedor beer, Lola’sisarite City Bowl;mainsUS$2.80-4; wraps. smoothies andtasty Mall, Crushoffers freshly juices, squeezed and interesting placestoeatonStGeorge’s City Bowl;mainsUS$2.80-4) Crush CAFÉS &QUICKEATS pretentious surroundings. Malay authenticCape dishesinun- sample streetfantastic life. Head totheBo-Kaap to Long Sthasmanygreat placestoeat,plus City Bowl&Bo-Kaap Town,too. inCape taurants food, andthere are goodAfricanres- several Malay sometraditionalCape tunity tosample tion of cafésanddelis.Don’tmisstheoppor- % o Birds Café Image African Café Frieda’s Lola’s 7-11pm Mon-Sat)

Mp pp428-9; (Map 021-426 2458;192Loop St,CityBowl;mainsUS$9; Easily Cape Town’smostcolourfulcafé, Cape Easily Bookingsare forthissuper- essential

(Map (Map pp428-9 ;

Mp pp428-9; (Map (Map (Map pp428-9 ; Madame Zingara & Cara Lazuli Zingara&Cara Madame

Mp pp428-9; (Map h Every isparty night night % (Map pp428-9; (Map 8am-4pm Mon-Fri)

The sophisticatedly rustic h 021-422 5533; 100 St George’s Mall, Mall, 021-422 5533;100StGeorge’s Oneof themostpleasant % % % h 12.30-2pm Mon-Fri, 7pm-11pm 12.30-2pm Mon-Fri, % 021-423 0885;228LongSt, 021-421 2404;15Bree St,City 021-422 0765; 95 Keerom St, 021-422 0765;95Keerom 8am-midnight) 021-426 2534;127Bree St, h 8am-6pm Mon-Fri, to 8am-6pm Mon-Fri, % Jumble-sale Jumble-sale 021-426 1857;48 Whether (Map (Map pp428-

433 SOUTH AFRICA AFRICA SOUTH SOUTH AFRICA Tamboerskloof; mainsUS$4; sandwiches, cakessandwiches, andscones. aswellthe usualfingercies such assamosas, splendid afternoon tea, includinglocaldelica- teaUS$16; afternoon 76OrangeSt; www.mountnelsonhotel.orient-express.com; preserves. its ownpiesandoffers arange of tempting this deli-caféprepares itsownbiltong,bakes 7pm Sat,8am-5pmSun) over town. to theirhearts.There are otherbranches all pastriesandfilledrolls juice, Portuguese-style grown chain’s freshly brewed coffee, orange Mon-Fri) mainsUS$2.80; 34KloofSt,Gardens; .co.za; eCafé Vida CAFÉS &QUICKEATS Gardens. Kloof Stoffers in thebestdiningselection &Around Gardens equally fantastic. therestaurantdance andsingthrough are who continent. Thedécorandfriendlystaff, comprising some15dishesfromacrossthe feast isbest knownforitsset the AfricaCafé US$20; St,CityBowl;setbanquet 108Shortmarket .africacafe.co.za; such aszebraandwildebeest. including thechance totrylocalgamemeats remains agreat placeforinventive cooking, bearer of thecity’scontemporary dining scene Hout St,CityBowl;mainsUS$9.50-12) different trytheBigBirdostrich burger. corner onVredenburg Forsomething Lane. ing, openingacute satellite branch aroundthe Our favourite gourmetburger barkeeps grow- Long St,CityBowl;mainsUS$8; the more casualShoga barandbrasserie. conjure upinventive fusiondishes.Upstairs is Book wellaheadforthisdininggem thatcan 1/2/3coursesUS$13/24/26; Bo-Kaap; hats isallpartof thefun. ings, bellydancinganddressing upinsilly chocolate sauce. Magic read- tricks,tarot-card inchilli- of filletsdoused whopper stack beef carnivore againstitsinfamous we’dadvise 434 Africa Café Africa Royale Eatery Mount NelsonHotel Wild Things Savoy Cabbage Ginja h CAPE TOWN••Eating Capetonians have Capetonians taken thishome-

Mp pp428-9; (Map 6.30pm-11pm)

Mp p432; (Map

(Map (Map p432 ; Mp pp428-9; (Map Mp pp428-9; (Map h

Mp pp428-9; (Map Specialisingingamemeats, 2.30-5.30pm) A Cape Towninstitution, ACape %

% h Mp p432; (Map % 021-426 2368;121CastleSt, h 7am-7pm Mon-Fri, 7.30am- 7am-7pm Mon-Fri, 021-426 0627;www.caffe 021-424 3445;96KloofSt, % noon-midnight Mon-Sat) % % h There’s alwaysa 021-422 0221;www The standard Thestandard 021-422 4536;279 % 021-424 2626;101 7pm-10pm Mon-Sat) h 021-483 1000; 7.30am-5pm

the in set fordeliciouslysimplebreakfastthe inset or ner of thetrendy Portsidecomplex. deli andcaféemporiums,located onthecor- the latest inMelissa’s chain of distinguished menu range. It’sagreat spotforanyof the rated caféhasexpandeditsdiningarea and gazing at the glorious coastal view isawon- gazing at thegloriouscoastal andpeppersquid orsushi plattersalt while St, Gardens; mainsUS$5.50-7) St, Gardens; fancy andtheirpavement caféisapopular Gionvanni’s canmake upanysandwich you Rd,Green Point;mains US$2.80-4; 103 Main Gionvanni’s DeliWorld CAFÉS &QUICKEATS walk awayinGreen PointandMouillePoint. less touristydiningexperienceisonoffer ashort valueanda agianttouristtrap.Better sentially cafés have it’ses- niceoceanviewsalthough The Waterfront’s plethoraof restaurants and Point&Waterfront Green onthestreet-front andtapas tails veranda. lunch atthistrendy café;ortryafternoon cock- St, Tamboerskloof; on theàlacarte menu. troutice-creamwarthog confitorsalmon are and it’sworldclass.Innovative dishes,such as Mon-Sat, noon-3pmThu) mainsUS$9-17; 39BarnetSt,Gardens; .co.za; especiallyrecommended.salads day’s meals,withthelambshank,burgers and Gainsbourg Café RESTAURANTS US$9.50; cnrofBeachRd&Surrey Pl,Moullie Point;mains .wakame.co.za; on thegroundfloorof VictoriaWharf. fish-based menu atthiscasualeatery anddeli, of sushiare fromagood-value thestandout rant 11.30am-10.45pm,deli9am-8.30pm) mainsUS$8-9.50; Waterfront; Wharf, 6132 Victoria Willoughby &Co RESTAURANTS and pleasinglycontemporary design. Our favourite caféhasarelaxed seaside vibe MouillePoint; mainsUS$4-5.40; Rd, SouthSeas, h Rds,Green Point;mainsUS$4; &Main cnr UpperPortswood hangout. Café Neo Café Wakame Melissa’s Epicure Manna Aubergine 7.30am-8pm Mon-Fri, 8am-8pmSat&Sun) 7.30am-8pm Mon-Fri, h

noon-10pm)

(Map pp424-5 ; www.melissas.co.za; 1 Portside, Portside, 1 www.melissas.co.za; pp424-5 ; (Map Mp pp424-5; (Map (Map p432; (Map

Mp pp424-5; (Map h

Mp pp424-5; (Map Mp p432; (Map

(Map p432; (Map 8am-7pm Tue-Sat, to3pmSun) It’s aboutthefoodhere – TuckingintoWakame’s Mp pp424-5; (Map % Thisminimalistdeco- % 021-465 4909;www.aubergine % % % 021-433 0849;129Beach % 021-422 1780;64Kloof 021-426 2413;151Kloof 021-433 2377;www lonelyplanet.com 021-418 6115;Shop Huge servings Huge servings % h h 021-434 6983; h Welove 8.30am-9pm) 7pm-10pm h 7am-7pm) Join restau-

view of Table Mountain. be enjoyedonthe terrace with agrandstand allof coffee and tapas, cocktails, which can This hipsters’ ameanlinein hangoutdoes such asthelovely fishcakes. the bestdishesare thatkeep itsimple those catch someof theeyeonmenu,though the daringcombinationsof ingredients that of comedy. includingstand-up events teresting andlaid-back venues, with aroster gather beneaththeUrbanChicHotel atthis 229B LongSt,CityBowl) & Pepper Sts,CityBowl) Grace Hotel, West Quay, Waterfront; mainsUS$9.50-13) Grace Hotel,WestQuay,Waterfront; drinks. balcony spotforsunset derful waytopassanafternoon. Bookfora lonelyplanet.com 76 OrangeSt, Gardens) vespa.com; 108KloofSt,Tamboerskloof; are onlyUS$1.60. during happyhour(6pmto7pm) cocktails a wideoutdoordeck.Thefoodis good and and Lion’sHead fromthistrendy placewith You’ll get panoramicviewsof Table Mountain Tamboerskloof; Relish &Around Gardens courses. excellent foodandrunswine-tasting around 38of bestwines.Italsoserves theCape’s class winebarwhere youcansipyourway DixonSt,Waterkant) CapeQuarter, www.thenose.co.za; Long Standanicelineincocktails. sophisticated bar,withwindowsopeningonto else). practically everything of allcolours rubshoulders (nottomention barwhere isafantastic can, Marvel coolkids Bowl; Marvel City Bowl&Waterkant andmuchnight, later FridayandSaturday. afterbars mid- openaround3pmandclose experience of howthelocals like toparty.Most foraneye-opening Bay Waterkant orCamps toLongSt,the on aFridayorSaturdaynight fornothing. Head Seas’ out ern of theSeven Towndidn’t becomeknownasthe‘Tav-Cape DRINKING One.Waterfront Planet Vespa Café Nose WineBar Orchard Bank Bar Gallery h

Mp p432; (Map Mp pp428-9; (Map 1pm-4am Mon-Sat)

Mp p432; (Map h

Mp pp428-9; (Map Mp p432; (Map

noon-2am Mon-Fri, 5pm-2amSat&Sun) noon-2am Mon-Fri, (Map pp428-9 ; www.orchardbank.co.za; www.orchardbank.co.za; pp428-9; (Map % CAPETOWN••Drinking (Map (Map pp424-5 ;

Cocktails andchampers Cocktails at % Mp pp424-5; (Map The chic urban black set Thechic urbanblackset One of LongSt’smore in- % 021-422 3584;70NewChurchSt, 021-483 1000; MountNelsonHotel, 021-426 5880;236LongSt,City % Stuffed as a sardine asasardine Stuffed % 021-426 5042;www.cafe 021-423 2086;cnrLong % % h 021-418 0520;Cape 021-425 2200; 9am-midnight) First- It’s

find outwhat’sgoingon. 0611; Exhibition Bldg, 81 Main Rd,Green Point) 0611; ExhibitionBldg,81Main gards, Pierhead, Waterfront) Waterfront andelsewhere around theCape. 9809; Darling St,CityBowl) certs mainlyat City’s classicalmusic scene,performingcon- (www.cpo.org.za) The incredibly active CLASSICAL Music Live ‘mainstream alternative’ films. 5727) two-screen US$3.40) tickets Orange St,Gardens; Walk. Canal Wharf attheWaterfront, Cavendish Sqand The bigmultiplexes canbefoundinVictoria Cinemas out thecity. Waterfront aswellotherlocationsthrough- www.computicket.com) through ian artsguideinthe Check theweekly ENTERTAINMENT dance. Sunday ifyouwanttosalsa inspiration fromthefamousCD.Comeon themed barandrestaurant, which takes its mix anicemojito atthisCuban- cocktail brewed beers andgood-value meals. avarietyof freshly this traditionalpubserving 2am) EastPier.mitchellsbreweries.co.za; Rd,Waterfront; dishes. of seafood plenty in top-classKaran andalsodoes beef can get bytheglass!Therestaurant specialises South Africanwines,170-oddof which you Waterfront) Mall, Victoria inventive andthere’s aroaringfire inwinter. across theharbouris seductive, thedrinks attheWaterfront.place forcocktails Theview Alba Lounge Point&Waterfront Green could resist? the MountNelson’sdeliciouslychic bar–who Labia forpracticallyanything You canbookseats ScottishAleHouse Mitchell’s Buena Vista SocialCafé Buena Vista Belthazar (www.chico..co.za/art/daily/menu-guide.htm) Checkallairs andgracesatthedoorof aroundthecorner,isbestcinema for

Mp p432; (Map Computicket

Mp pp424-5; (Map Mp pp424-5; (Map Labia onKloof leadsthewayon theMother City Hall % . There isanoutletatthe aswell atArtscape,the 021-424 5927;www.labia.co.za; 68 Offering 600different Offering Mp pp424-5 ; (Map

Easily themoststylish Easily % Cape TownPhilharmonic Cape %

Mp pp424-5 ; (Map Mp pp428-9; (Map

021-425 3385;1stflHilde- Mp p432; (Map 021-421 3753;Shop153, ( , together withits

% 021-419 5074;www % Mail &Guard- Mail 083-915 8000; The staff Thestaff % % % h 021-424 021-410 021-433 11am- 435 to

SOUTH AFRICA AFRICA SOUTH SOUTH AFRICA front. On Friday and Saturday it’s free to see front. OnFridayandSaturdayit’sfree tosee itsmove tohaveseems survived totheWater- to jazzandAfricanjive atthisfamedclubthat music sets getmusic sets goingat8pm. of otherjazzartists.Thefoodisgoodandthe Afro-chic venue aswellapacked schedule imba bandplayingoccasionallyatthisslick US$2.80, nondinersUS$4) imbasa.com; CapeTownConventionCentre, CityBowl;diners ria, theperforming-artscomplex 2am Mon-Sat) Long St,CityBowl;coverUS$2,ifdiningUS$1.40; 15 Rose Lane, Bo-Kaap; coverUS$1.40; 15 RoseLane,Bo-Kaap; and Saturday. arekant. The bignights Wednesday, Friday City Bowlaround LongStandintheWater- The major are nightclubs concentrated inthe Nightclubs Africa Mama Place African Marco’s long-running restaurants: next door. Mercury Lounge belowandtheShack bar don’t like theband,there’s alwaystheDJbar to topSAbandsandoverseas visitors. Ifyou Town’spremierCape rockvenue playshost 43DeVilliersSt,Zonnebloem;coverUS$2.80-5.50) cu ryl.co.za; Live Mercury ROCK/AFRICAN to 7pm,butacover charge kicksinlater. from5pm the bandsplayingsundownerset coverUS$4-11) 5639; ClockTowerCentre, Waterfront; and topperformers. top venues, clientele attractingawell-heeled of thegamehere. Thisisoneof Town’s Cape h 400 Bldg,CollegeRd,RyelandsEstate,Athlone;coverUS$4; decent food).Shows kickoffat8.15pmdaily. upmarket jazzvenue andrestaurant (serving a consistently goodline-upof artists atthis coverUS$3.40) .greendolphin.co.za; Waterfront; Dolphin Green JAZZ this area isnotrecommended. atnight Town.Walking around performances inCape St, Foreshore) pp428-9; 436 West End Consisting of three different-sized audito- Manenberg’s JazzCafé Manenberg’s Otherwise for African bands head to these forAfricanbandsheadtothese Otherwise Marimba 8pm-late Fri &Sat) 8pm-late Fri CAPE TOWN••Shopping % isthehubof classicalandtheatrical 021-410 9800; www.artscape.co.za; 1-10 DF Malan 1-10DFMalan 021-410 9800;www.artscape.co.za;

Mp pp428-9; (Map (Map (Map pp428-9 ;

Mp pp416-17; (Map Mp p432; (Map

Mp pp424-5; (Map Mainstream jazzisthename (Map pp428-9 ; Yes, theydohave a mar- %

% % Mp pp424-5; (Map 021-465 2106;www.mer % % 021-418 3366;www.mar 021-426 1017;178 h 021-421 7471;www 021-637 9132;Cine % noon-11pm) 021-423 5412; Artscape % There’s h Swing 021-421 7pm- (Map (Map

St, Bo-Kaap) pp428-9; pp416-17; Blvd, Century City, Milnerton; Blvd, CenturyCity,Milnerton; well aswildlypatterned shirts. tefacts andalotof townshipcraftshere, as has afabulousrange of ancientAfrican ar- down toR&B,hip-hopandlive bandswitha Flatsdancevenue whereCape youcanget Bowl; coverUS$2.80) Burg Sts,CityBowl; lines operating outof Town: Cape stairs Friday). every profits goingtoaHIV/AIDSclinic(heldup- made bywomeninthetownships,with cans andwire sculptures. beadwork dolls,toysmadefromrecycled tin the localtownship–produceditems, such as Townareathe Cape Great itself. buysinclude of thetraditionalAfricanitems comefrom the citycentre. mall onthecontinent,about5kmnorthof ger forasuburbanmall,visit butifyouhun- stock mostthingsyou’llneed, Shops inthecitycentre andtheWaterfront SHOPPING balcony istheplacetowatch LongStgoby. Thelong sessions. open-mikeeven poetry range of includinglive events bands,DJsand St, CityBowl;coverUS$2.80) dary WestEndjazzvenue isnextdoor. black andcoloured crowd.Theequallylegen- lege Rd,RyelandsEstate,Athlone;coverUS$4) music fromacrossAfrica. ing, predominantly blackaudience. Danceto city atthisurbanAfricanclubwithawelcom- 359 722;www.flysaa.com) drive depending ontraffic. of thecitycentre, approximately 20minutes’ % Airport TownInternational Cape Air THERE& AWAY GETTING www.african-image.co.za; out Sun) (Map pp424-5 ; WesternBlvd,Green Point; Apart from themarketsBrowse at Club Galaxy There are craftshops allover townbutfew SoundBar Zula 021-937 1200;www.airports.co.za) and

Snap African Image African % % Mp pp428-9; (Map

Greenmarket Sq Greenmarket sells brilliant,beadedproductsall sells 021-426 0145; www.monkeybiz.co.za; 65Rose 021-426 0145;www.monkeybiz.co.za; 0860-101 165; www.canalwalk.co.za; Century 0860-101 165;www.canalwalk.co.za;

Mp pp416-17; (Map South African Airways South African h The Cape Flatscomestothe TheCape

Mp pp428-9; (Map

9am-4pm Mon-Sat). Mp pp428-9; (Map %

there are twobudget air- cnr Church&BurgSts) h 083-940 3983; Hostsaninteresting

p2- cr hrmre & Shortmarket cnr ( pp428-9; 9am-9pm) % Green PointMarket Green % lonelyplanet.com % 021-637 9132;Col- is20kmeast Monkeybiz 424 2442;194Long

Canal Walk Canal (Map (Map pp416-17

h 6 Pepper St,City , thelargest Long-time 021-423 8385; Also check (SAA;

Kulula.com 8.30am-6pm ,

% which

(Map (Map (Map 0860 ;

www.homeland.co.za; 305LongSt,CityBowl) www.homeland.co.za; liable localguide. Alocal-area minibustaxi them withoutgoodlocalknowledge orare- Cape Town to Durban (US$67); East Lon- TowntoDurban(US$67);East Cape cheapest one-wayfares payfrom you might South Africancities.Thefollowingare the 345 345;www.1time.co.za) ( lonelyplanet.com taxi companyis taxi airport shared authorised theofficially taxi; 5pmand8am). between airport transfers forUS$12perperson (US$16 from accommodationinthecity and offer Tours www.backpackerbus.co.za) Both To/From theAirport AROUND GETTING 10.30am Sat) ( the frontof thequeueat Itcantake alongtimetoreachtrain station. All trainsleave Town fromthemainCape Train about US$0.70. costs toLanga Towntrainstation from Cape early hours of themorning so great places tobewanderingaroundinthe moreneed people. The townshipsare not ifthey Towntrain station trip intoCape andNyanga,perhapsalsomakinga Langa ing uppassengers intownships,especially pick- start minibustaxis Most long-distance Taxi Minibus Bus,see and ontheBaz p592 . For more informationonbusroutes andfares, Translux SA Roadlink Mainliner Intercape Greyhound (City Bowl). Meriman Sqendof Towntrainstation Cape main arrivalanddeparture pointsare atthe out of and Town.Theirbookingoffices Cape Four major buslinesoperate long-distance Bus (US$97); andUpington(US$96). don (US$80);Jo’burg (US$93);PortElizabeth cape.co.za) % % Expect to payaroundUS$27foranon- Expect 0861 585852;www.kulula.com) 021-449 4596;

Backpacker Bus Backpacker Mp pp428-9; (Map ( % . ( ( % % 021-449 3333;www.translux.co.za) 021-75 6363;www.greyhound.co.za) 021-425 0203;www.saroadlink.co.za) CAPE TOWN •• Getting Around CAPETOWN••Getting h ( Touch Down Taxis % %

. Allthree flytothemajor 7.30am-4.55pm Mon-Fri, 7.30- 7.30am-4.55pm Mon-Fri, ( % and 021-426 0294,083-2656661; 021-380 4400;www.inter 021-447 4991,82-1199185; Homeland Shuttle& and do not booking office booking 1time

( % pick up ( gointo % 021-919 0861

from the main train station to Camps Bay is Bay toCamps from themaintrainstation within a5kmradiusof the citycentre. Atrip be booked orhailedonthestreet andtravel Bowl) ( Cab the city,orcall the AdderleyStend of theGrandParade in about US$1.40per km.There’s rankat a taxi late orifyou’re are atnight inagroup.Rates anonsharedIt’s worthconsideringtaking taxi Taxi to turnupabooking. are droppedoff, andtheyare notoriouslyslow amountofa certain meanderingaspassengers quickest waytoget around,asthere isusually four people. GardenscostsUS$9.50forthefirstBotanical US$2; fromtheCityBowltoKirstenbosch .co.za; tiny minivansof andashared ataxi areA crossbetween taxi the Rikki they’re going. side of theroadandaskdriver where way of getting around.Hail themfromthe informal networkof routes andare acheap coverMinibus taxis mostof thecitywithan Taxi Minibus 10 discounted trips. regularly, it’sworth buying‘clipcards’,with 30% higher. Ifyou’re usingaparticularbus (US$0.90).Peakand HoutBay fares are about (US$0.60) Kloof Bay Nek(US$0.40),Camps Point(US$0.40), Waterfront (US$0.40),Sea from 8amto4pm)thecityinclude whichever arrives first. bus stopandtake eitherabusorshared taxi, mostpeoplewaitatthe elling short distances, from thecitycentre Whentrav- toHoutBay. forgetting alongtheAtlanticCoast useful are Buses stopping earlyintheevening. most www.gabs.co.za) TerminalGolden Acre isthe themainstation For localbusservices Bus US$17 forhire of thetinyminivancabs. a bookingwithRikkis( below ) whocharge 4659) % Although cheap, Rikkismaynotbethe Although fares (applicable Destinations andoff-peak

( 021-447 4402). . Ifthere are fourof you,considermaking . Fromhere % h 0861-172 222; wwwsacab.co.za) 7am-7pm Mon-Fri, 8am-4pmSat) 7am-7pm Mon-Fri, buses run, with most services run,withmostservices buses Marine Taxi Marine Rikkis Golden Arrow

(Map (Map pp428-9 ; GrandParade, City (

% 021-418 6713;www.rikkis

( %

( 021-434 0434) % or . These can . These 0800 656463; Unicab Taxis 437 , SA

SOUTH AFRICA AFRICA SOUTH SOUTH AFRICA carriages only.Thedifference inpriceand Observatory (US$0.50/0.70),Muizenberg Observatory escaping the beauty. there’s inthe Westerngo, however, Cape no thecrowds.Whichever wayyou nity toflee But it’samagical place, withampleopportu- here, particularlyalongthe GardenRoute. a bitlike azebrainherdtravelling around tourist destination,soattimesyou mayfeel world’s finestwines. ernmost tipof someof Africaandsample the at abeachside atthesouth- barbecue,stand breaks, withwhales,eatfresh cruise crayfish airplane, surfsomeof Southern Africa’sbest whelming. Dive withsharks,jumpoutof an of adventures toexperiencealmost over- landscape isunparalleledandthenumber without usingclichés. Thediversity of the often sopicture-perfect it’shardto describe of theworld’spremier destinations,aplace The iswithoutadoubtone Western Cape CAPE WESTERN (US$1/1.40). Paarl (US$1.10/1.50) andStellenbosch (US$0.75/1.10), Simon’sTown(US$1/1.40), best atpeaktimes. means of areas; is transporttothese security and Paarl. Theyare the cheapest andeasiest andintotheWinelandstoStellenboschBay, Town, toStrandontheeastern sideof False on Sunday. on Saturday),andfrom7.30amto6.30pm 5am to7.30pmMondayFriday(to6pm hourfromaround trains runatleastevery suburbs andalongtheFalse coast.These Bay Table upper-income through Mountain white andthenaroundthebackof Observatory the Simon’sTownline,which runsthrough the whole. the 1st-classcompartmentstobesafer on you’llfind comfort isnegligible,although Rail Metro on Saturday.Forinformationcontact after 6pm Monday toFridayandafter noon therearound, although are few (orno)trains Metro commuter trainsare ahandywaytoget Train 438 Metro trainshave 1st-andeconomy-class The most important lineforvisitorsThe mostimportant is Some economy/1st-classfares include The region isthecountry’smostpopular Metro trainsrunsomewayoutof Cape WESTERN CAPE••Winelands

( % 0800 656463;www.capemetrorail.co.za) Cape . Bird St)Internetaccess. ( Excellent brochures are available. h St; 36Market 3584; www.tourismstellenbosch.co.za; per hrUS$2)Internetaccess. Fandangos Café Internet INFORMATION tels andvariedeatingnightlife options. buzzingmarkets,on itsmuseums, quality ho- nians, winefarmworkers andtouristsdescend But mosttimesit’sjustplainbusy,asCapeto- monument tocolonialarchitectural splendour. University studentsandatothers it’sastately At timesit’sarowdyjointforStellenbosch River in1679,Stellenbosch wears manyfaces. on thebanksofment, established theEerste Europeansettle- South Africa’ssecond-oldest % Stellenbosch mercial centre withexcellentestates. the mostactivities,whilePaarl isabusycom- ner). Lively student-townStellenbosch offers (Frenchculinary hotspotFranschhoek Cor- to the Boland, particularlyinFrench-themed there’ssettlement, adistinctlyEuropeanfeel slopes thevineyardsformapatchwork. that shoot uptoover fertile 1500m,onwhose a reference ranges tothedramaticmountain the mostfamous.It’snamemeans‘Upland’, ing region inSouthAfrica,butit’scertainly Town,isnottheonlywine-grow- from Cape The Boland,stretching inlandandupwards WINELANDS of localartboth famousandemerging, this Featuring oneof thecountry’s bestselections Museum Sasol Art Plein,Drostdy andChurchRyneveld, Sts. occupies theentire cityblockboundedby US$2/1.40; museum from 1709to1850make upthismust-see restored andperiod-furnished dating houses Charming gardensandagroupof exquisitely Village Museum SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES PublicityAssociation Stellenbosch Travel Rennies Java Café Thomas Cook foreign-exchange office. Thomas Cookforeign-exchange % With itscenturies-longhistoryof colonial 8am-6pm Mon-Fri, 9am-5pmSat,9am-4pmSun) 8am-6pm Mon-Fri, 021 /pop220,000 021-887 4628);

( ( h % % 9.30am-5pm Mon-Sat,2-5pmSun) 021-887 2902; 18 Ryneveld St; adult/child 021-887 2902;18Ryneveld 021-887 6261; cnr Church & Andringa Sts; 021-887 6261;cnrChurch&Andringa (Mill St)AblockfromDorpSt,witha (Mill Drostdy Centre (perhrUS$4) ( % lonelyplanet.com 021-887 7501; ( % Mill St Mill 021-883 ,

which lonelyplanet.com ὄὄὄὄὄ0ὄ 100 km WESTERN CAPE 0 60 miles r ve De Aar To Springbok (110km); Garies R Ri Windhoek & Namibia (1100km) 27 n To Bloemfontein (325km); r e ive Kareebospoort ro Johannesburg (710km); R N O R T H E R N G Pretoria (770km) R357 C A P E Carnarvon O Groen n ge Hanover Loeriesfontein rs Ri v WESTERN CAPE River er Bitterfontein Hantamberg R ὄὄὄὄὄὄὄ(1673m) ὄὄὄ63 ὄὄ Sout R 63 Victoria West Richmond Vanrhyns Nieuwoudtville R Williston R Pass 63 Loxton 27 Calvinia R Sak N 27 Riet 12 N Fish 10

NVredendal Bloukrans R Vanrhynsdorp e

7 Pass n River

Botterkloof o River Nieu Bethesda s

River

t Strandfontein Pass e Murraysburg r Fraserburg Olifants N

K 1 R 364 River a Rooiduine Point Karoo r S i e

ὈὈὈὄὄὄὈὄ a g NP l a Lambert's Bay Pakhuis Tankwa Karoo t Graaff-Reinet Pass NP R

Clanwilliam River i

A T L A N T I C Wuppertal v Beaufort e River

West r R O C E A N Eland's Bay T Sutherland 61Aberdeen Cederberg an Dwyka WA kw Redelinghuys a Leeuw River Rv Middelberg Merweville E A S T E R N St Helena Citrusdal T h e K a r o o C A P E Bay Piekenierskloof Pass Pass St Helena Bay R 303 River Jansenville Paternoster PiketbergὈὈὈBeaverlac R354 ὈὄPrince Albert Road Cape Columbine Groot River Vredenburg NR Groot Winterhoek N Volstruisleegte N Swartberg 12 Gro9ot R Saldanha (2078m) Meiringspoort ive R Prince Albert Pass r Langebaan R Gydo Pass Matjiesfontein N Pass 45 44 oo Seweweekspoort1 Die Hel Klaarstroom Willowmore Tulbagh R R Kar Pass R407 R West Coast NP 46 46 eat Kraaldorings De 62 Gr Cango ifants River Yzerfontein Darling Ceres Touws Rust Ol N Mitchell's Ladismith R Caves Dassen Island 7 62 R332 R Malmesbury Pass River Calitzdorp Oudtshoorn 27 Bainskloof Pass Uniondale Bok Point WellingtonR Worcester L i t t l e K a r o o N 43 12 Montagu Groot ὈὄBok Bay ὈPaarl RobertsonR R323 Prince N 62 George 9 Alfred's Tsitsikamma Robben Island Franschhoek Marloth Wilderness Pass NP NR Barrydale N Stellenbosch McGregor Plettenberg Bay 2 Swellendam N Knysna CAPE TOWN Genadendal N River Wilderness B Riversdale 2 To Port Greyton 2 NP Table Strand r Heidelberg Elizabeth (210km); N e Mossel Bay Robberg Mountain NP e East London (520km) False 2 d Albertinia Vis Bay NR & MR Simon's Town Bay Gordon's Bontebok e Witsand Bay R LEGEND Cape of Caledon NP iver Gouritsmond R Stilbaai See Garden Route Map (pp450-1) MR Marine Reserve Good Hope Cape 43 R316 NR Hermanus Stanford Cape Infanta NP National Park Point De Hoop NR Nature Reserve ὈὈὈὈὈBredasdorp NR ὈὈὄὈὈὈ Cape Hangklip Gansbaai WA Wilderness Area Agulhas Arniston Danger NP I N D I A N O C E A N Point L'Agulhas 439 Struis Bay Quoin Point Cape Agulhas ὈὈ AFRICA SOUTH SOUTH AFRICA lunch andalltastings. value forafull-daytripatUS$34including companyofferingis along-established good 440 .snow ball.co.za; 10A Mill St;s/dwithbreakfast US$50/74; 10A Mill .snow ball.co.za; Wine Tours. Rider garden.TheyalsorunEasy a pleasant onewith apoolandtheotherwith houses, atmosphere, thisplaceissplitover twoold US$20; sites perpersonUS$5.50,dmUS$8,dwithshared bathroom Stumble Inn SLEEPING WineTours Easy Rider TOURS Cape. arguably inthe themostbeautifulestate admission US$1.40,tastingsUS$0.30-1.40; 1334; www.vergelegen.co.za; Lourensford Rd,SomersetWest; 20 wineries,including West, 20kmsouthof Stellenbosch, hassome Pass onRte 310towardsFranschhoek. altitude locationatthetopof the Helshoogte ofas the‘vineyardinsky’because itshigh- tastingsUS$1.40; .co.za; able is Sun) .com; tastingsUS$3.40; to recommenda whim.Wedo,however, avisit sometimes besttodrive aroundandstopon Stellenbosch area tolistall of them,soit’s There are toomanygoodwineriesinthe Wineries 18th century. example of Dutch stylefromthelate Cape House Onthenorthwestcorneris museum. tary asmallmili- and gunpowdernowhouses built in1777tostore thetown’sweapons admission free; To thewestis ontheBraakChurch Mary’s stretch of grass, you’llfindtheneo-Gothic At thenorthendof the Braak anthropological treasures. anirreplaceablecontains collectionof African US$1.20/0.70; museum The area aroundSomerset Blaauwklippen De OudeMeul , arustic300-year-old estate. Alsounmiss- , alsoknownastheBurgerhuis, afine is WESTERN CAPE••Winelands Delaire

( % h

h ) 021-808 3693; 52 Ryneveld St;adult/child 021-808 3693;52Ryneveld ( Withalively andwelcoming %

9am-4.30pm Tue-Fri, to4pmSat) 9am-4.30pm Tue-Fri, (

% 9.30am-1pm Mon-Fri) ( (

% % 021-887 4049; 12 Market St;camp 021-887 4049;12Market h h 021-885 1756;www.delairewinery 021-880 0133;www.blaauwklippen

021-887 7085; www.deoudemeul ( VOC Kruithuis % 10am-5pm) 9am-5pm Mon-Sat,9am-4pm Braak 021-886 4651; 12 Market St) 021-886 4651;12Market Vergelegen , completed in1852. (Town Sq) (Town , which isknown

h , which was (Powder House;

( 9.30am-4pm) % , anopen 021-847 also Fick Fick St ,

A localfavourite that’sopen365daysayear, middle of theSpierwine estate. It’s alotof visionofplace brings afantasy Africatothe weg; mainsUS$10; winery. Somesuites have private pools. consists of a300-year-old and manorhouse fet US$24; town, theaccommodationhere isvery good St; s/dwithbreakfast US$60/105; h Inval De Soete EATING ais Valley;Jonkershoek s/d/stewithbreakfast US$230/400/560; and sauna. couple. There isasmallgym run byaBelgian this ‘GoldenGrape’isacharming guesthouse Dutch buildingdatingbackto1792, In aCape .net; 110DorpSt;s/dwithbreakfast US$88/95; accommodation. offerschic guesthouse multilevelled plush Stellenbosch’s trendy restaurant zone,this quiet forbeingslap-bang inthemiddleof isagoodspotfordrink. beds. Thebrasserie catering facilitiesandothers withfour-poster variety of withself- rooms,including those a 162DorpSt;s/dwithbreakfastbosch.co.za/hotel; fromUS$57/95; have balconies. and reasonable fortheprice. Somerooms a terrace views. withfinemountain Malaytraditional Cape cuisineandfeatures a this no-frills, in atmospheric placespecialises and beliefinsimplycooked, real food. rants inthearea, knownforitsdryaged beef West, thisisoneof themost respected restau- RteStellenbosch 44between Off andSomerset Rd; mainsUS$9.50; vibe. forareasonable Aplatter US$11. goes It’s asnazzilydesignedplacewithrelaxed mains US$7; US$10 orahalfportionforUS$7. tafel (ricewithmanydishes)sixdishesfor afineDutch-Indonesian rijst- place alsodoes choice of 40different pancakes, thischeerful 96 WineryRd Hotel Lanzerac De GoueDruif Wild Mushroom Hotel Stellenbosch Moyo De Volkskombuis Fishmonger ) breakfast, lunch&dinner) ) A comfortable country-stylehotel Acomfortable witha Above anantiquesshopinthecentre of

( h % h ) Thisunashamedlyopulentplace lunch &dinner) Book accommodationBook online at lonelyplanet.com 021-119 1100;SpierEstate, Vlottenburg;buf- ( lunch &dinner)

%

( % (

% h ( h % (

021-886 4842; 5 Ryneveld St;mainsUS$7; 021-886 4842;5Ryneveld % 021-887 7835; cnr Ryneveld &PleinSts; 021-887 7835;cnrRyneveld

021-842 2945;ZandbergFarm, Winery lunch &dinnerMon-Sat,Sun) ( lunch &dinnerMon-Sat,Sun) ( 021-883 3555;gouedruif.hypermart %

% 021-887 1132;www.lanzerac.co.za; ( % Knownprimarilyforits 021-887 2121; Aan deWagen- 021-887 2121;Aan The choice for seafood. Thechoice for seafood. 021-886 9880; 15 Ryneveld 021-886 9880;15Ryneveld Thistourist-pleasing 021-887 3644;www.stellen a lonelyplanet.com ) Surprisingly ais

) ὈὈὈ ὈὈὈ ὈὈὈ ὈὈὈ ὈὈὈ lonelyplanet.com To CapeTown(46km) 4 6 1 3 2 5 STELLENBOSCH

George Blake

Stellenbosch Plankenburg soito...... B5 Association...... Stellenbosch Publicity Fandangos InternetCafé...... De OudeMeul...... De GoueDruif...... VOC Kruithuis...... Village Museum...... Sasol ArtMuseum...... St Mary'sontheBraakChurch.. Fick House...... Easy RiderWineTours...... (see14) Braak...... Rennies Travel...... Java Café...... Fandangos InternetCafé...... (see21) SLEEPING SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES INFORMATION

Adam Tas Creek

44 Strand R Herold AC

17 Dorp St To 96WineryRd (12km); 44 R Vergelegen (16km)

Stoffel Smit St WESTERNCAPE••Stellenbosch Aan de Wagenweg Papegaai

Van derStelSportsClub

Du Toit Eerste St Bird

Market 12 11 10

(Mark) St 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1

14 Molteno C5 Paul Kruger C5 B5 B5 D5 C4 C5 B5 C5 C5 C5

20 River

Dennesig Herte Merriman St

ihogr...... D5 Fishmonger...... Stumble Inn...... Stellenbosch Hotel...... Minibus Taxis...... Tollies...... (see 21) Terrace...... (see 21) Nu Bar...... Mystic Boer...... Dros...... De Akker...... Bohemia...... De Volkskombuis...... De SoeteInval...... Wild Mushroom...... TRANSPORT DRINKING EATING Krige B

4 Hamman 6 44 10

11 R

Alexander Latsky St Bird Drostdy Centre To Paarl

(30km)

21 5 Botha DS.

Bloem 24 7 1

R304 3 Piet Retief Piet

Beyers St Bird St

12 Mill St Jan Cilliers 24 23 22 21 20 19 18 17 16 15 14 13

C4 C5 C4 B4 B6 C4 A6 C5 C5 B5 C5

Borcherd Andringa St Andringa Muller

Church Plein St Louw 19

Suidwal Crozier

(Kerk) St 22

400m 0.2miles 0 0

2 13 Helderberg 23

Dorp St 16 St Ryneveld 15 8 18 Ὀ Ὀ

9

Banghoek Drostdy St Drostdy Hammanshand

Merriman St University of Stellenbosch

Victoria St

Joubert Helshoogte D Van Riebeeck

The Avenue

To Franschhoek Neethling Hotel (4km) To Lanzerac

R310

De Beer De Hospital (29km)

441 SOUTH AFRICA AFRICA SOUTH SOUTH AFRICA and has anupstairs cellarforlive music. hip-hop and house. hip-hop andhouse. yond thelongbarwhere theDJpumpsout feel, withasmalldancefloorbe- a nightclub the middleof theday. iswhereFranschhoek has toeat. It certainly decision you’llfacein thetoughest capital, asthe country’sgastronomicBilling itself % Franschhoek or US$12fortheday. the StumbleInn( p440 ) for US$2.80perhour a goodwaytoget around,canbe hired from The townisnavigable onfootandbicycles, AROUND GETTING Metrorail are no2nd-classtickets. Forinquiries,call US$1.60/$0.90, aboutonehour).Note there Town andStellenbosch (1st/economyclass Metro Cape trainsrunthe46kmbetween Train en route at Pniel. minutes), but youmayhave tochange taxis ridetoPaarlA minibustaxi isabout US$4(45 Minibus Taxi will pickyouupfromwhere youare staying. which charges US$19toUS$30onewayand Bus packer take bookings.You’re better using off Town anddonot toCape for theshortsector charge prices high busservices Long-distance Bus THERE&AWAYGETTING Bohemia Braak, are amongtheliveliest bars. the complexjustoff BirdStandnorthof the Tollies Terrace era retro-Boer chic. perhaps bestdescribedaspost-transformation Afrikaans kidshangouthere insurroundings Nu Bar DRINKING alfresco diningintents andupinthetrees. fun, withroving musiciansanddancers and 442 Mystic Boer The classic studentwatering holes include Dros 021 /pop13,000 De Akker

WESTERN CAPE••Winelands

(Drostdy Centre, BirdSt) ( ( % ( % %

( ( % ( % % 021-886 8998;51PleinSt) 021-886 4856;DrostdyCentre, BirdSt) 021-887 194;DrostdyCentre, BirdSt)

021-882 8375; cnr Andringa & Victoria Sts) &Victoria 021-882 8375;cnrAndringa

0800 656463) ( 021-447 4991;www.backpackerbus.co.za) ( % % 021-883 3512;90DorpSt) 021-886 8870; 3 Victoria St) 021-886 8870;3Victoria , clustered together in . Tobesafe, travel in Thisplacehas , which Cool , the Back- and , , Winelands. Set around aleafycourtyard and Winelands. Set This isone of inthe thebest placestostay 876 3603; www.franschhoek.org.za; HuguenotSt; 876 3603;www.franschhoek.org.za; 55 HuguenotSt;s/dUS$35/47) h minute walkuphillnorthof HuguenotSt. in themiddleof thewinery’s vineyards,a10- uptofourare cottages sleeping Pleasant set UitkykSt;cottagesperpersonfromUS$27) .chamonix.co.za; Chamonix GuestCottages SLEEPING wine. whichtate, haslovely architecture, foodand ( transporttoreachneed famous ofwalking distance thetowncentre, butyou’ll Many of wineriesare Franschhoek’s within Wineries logical records of theirdescendants. thegenaeo-Africa’s Huguenotsandhouses h ( The engrossing SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES a mapof thearea’s scenicwalks. to5pmSat,4pmSun) 6pm Mon-Fri, visit bothStellenbosch andPaarl. have fromwhich to transportthisagoodbase little like atouristthemepark.As longasyou quartier.co.za; 16HuguenotSt;d from US$320; views. mountain 12 spaciousroomswithwoodenfloors and stylishly appointed familyhomefeaturing ternative off thetown’smain drag,thisisa s UysSt;s/dwithbreakfast US$80/100; 21Dirkie schhoek.co.za; to apatio. It also hasapopularrestaurant. quality roomsandstylishsuites allopeningon a StEast;s/dwithbreakfast US$70/90; 7Reservoir -rouge.co.za; catering facilities. walk fromthevillage centre andnowhasself- beauty. It’sprivate, quiet,justafew minutes’ two,orfouratapinch,tage sleeping butit’sa % % stylish guesthouses thrownin,itmayfeel a stylish guesthouses with aclutch of artgalleries,winefarmsand one of theloveliest and intheCape settings Le Quartier Français Le Quartier La Fontaine Le BallonRouge Cottage The ) 9am-5pm Mon-Sat,2-5pmSun) ) 8.30am-4.30pm) Offering aquieter Offering accommodational- 021-876 2532;Lambrecht St;adult/childUS$0.70/0.30; is 021-870 4210;www.boschendal.com;PnielRd; Franschhoek WineValley Tourism

( ) % A small guesthouse withgood- Asmallguesthouse Book accommodationBook online at lonelyplanet.com

021-876 2392; [email protected]; 021-876 2392;[email protected]; ( % , theclassicWinelandses- Huguenot Memorial Museum Huguenot Memorial

021-876 2112;www.lafontainefran ( %

There isjust onecot- ( 021-876 2651;www.ballon %

( % 021-876 2151;www.le office canprovide celebrates South 021-876 2494;www lonelyplanet.com Boschendal ais

( h % 9am- 021-

) farm-kitchen food is served inthischarming farm-kitchen foodisserved ies whohanker forromanticviews,boutique mains US$8-11; lighter mealsforaroundUS$8. meal(US$38).Thehotel’scourse bardoes restaurantand aset-menu offering afour- bistro offering foodsuch aszebracarpaccio; now splitintotwodiningoptions:astylish Book accommodationBook online at lonelyplanet.com h .com; 86 Main St; .com; 86Main Sun) Information onthewholeregion. EATING also thefinerestaurant, Ici,here. places, huge bedsandstylishdécor. There’s pool, guestroomsare very large withfire- lonelyplanet.com Paarl Tourism INFORMATION significant monumentstoAfrikaner culture. Dutch architectureexcellent Cape andsome somethe Paarl Nature Mountain Reserve, town limits.There are somegreat walksin anddo,including vineyardswithin lot tosee town totouronfootbutthere isstillquite a River.the banksof theBerg It’snotreally a andvineyards,on surrounded bymountains lenbosch, Paarl isalarge commercialcentre, touristyandmoreLess spread outthanStel- % Paarl (US$1.20). from Stellenbosch (US$1.10)orPaarl station ing andcanbetreacherous. Shared run taxis here fromStellenbosch, but roadsare wind- own vehicle. Somevisitors tocycle choose The bestwaytoreach isinyour Franschhoek THERE&AWAYGETTING delicately flavoured signature dish. wines andsmoked, trout,its debonedsalmon mains US$11; with guests;BYOwine. deliciousfoodandchat thetotally to serve Topsi Venter popsoutfromheropenkitchen is quirkyandvery relaxed, andrenowned chef a knockout,asare thefilledpancakes. (US$5.50)is garden. Thespicycalamarisalad old-fashioned inapleasant farm-restaurant set US$4-5; Goederust Topsi &Company La Petite FermeLa Petite Ici lunch &dinner) 021 /pop165,000 ( % h 021-876 2151;16HuguenotSt;mainsUS$7-38; breakfast &lunch) ( % h h ( % h 021-876 3687; Main Rd,LaMotte;mains 021-876 3687;Main noon-4pm) This Franschhoek stalwart is stalwart ThisFranschhoek lunch &dinnerWed-Mon) WESTERNCAPE••Winelands (

% 021-863 4937;www.paarlonline 8am-6pm Mon-Fri, 9am-2pmSat& 8am-6pm Mon-Fri,

( % 021-876 3016;FranschhoekPass Rd; Amust-visit forfood- 021-876 2952; 7 Reservoir St; 021-876 2952;7Reservoir A new take on Cape Anewtake onCape Thisplace polines and acafé. FacilitiesFranschhoek. tram- include canoes, River, 5km fromPaarl ontheN45towards tive municipal campgroundbesidetheBerg campsitesUS$25,dchalets US$70; .co.za; than themainPaarl station. iscloser weekends. Huguenottrainstation inadvance,especiallyon bag.Call a sleeping three-bedspartan tobring dorms;you’llneed YMCA-style accommodation complexwith St;dmwithfullboardUS$15) Sanddrift Centre Manyano SLEEPING TownTourism(see desk atCape p419 ). Natureavailable fromtheCape Conservation tobuyapermit(US$4),whichfall. Youneed is the five-hour to Ceres. which runs southtoWorcester andnorth RteWellington acrossBainskloof 43, tomeet experienced onabicycle. Rte 303runsfrom have better thelungsforit,wouldbeeven along. It’samagicaldrive, which, ifyou withasuperbcaravan parkhalfway passes, This isoneof thecountry’sgreat mountain Pass Bainskloof excellent viewsover thevalley. wildflower garden,andnumerouswalkswith hasmountain The reserve if theyare bythesunafter caught afallof rain. ern sideof townapparently glisten like pearls andloomoverthis popularreserve thewest- The three giantgranite domesthatdominate Paarl MountainNature Reserve to1pmSat) Mon-Fri, 11Pastorie.co.za; Ave; adult/childUS$1.40/0.30; teresting kaans language, afactcovered wellbythisin- Paarl isconsidered thewellspringof theAfri- Afrikaans LanguageMuseum Afrikaner culture. antiques andrelics of Huguenotandearly It hasafascinatingcollectionof Dutch Cape Oude Pastorie (OldParsonage), builtin1714. h St;adult/childUS$0.70/donation; 303Main .za/paarlmuseum; This Paarl Museum SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES Berg River Resort River Berg There are nearbywalks, including several 9am-5pm Mon-Fri, to1pmSat) 9am-5pm Mon-Fri, museum museum

Bobbejaans River Walk Bobbejaans River ( (

% % . (

% 021-872 2651;www.museums.org 021-872 2537; [email protected]; 021-872 2537;[email protected];

( % 021-872 3441;www.taalmuseum 021-863 1650;bergr@mweb fynbos, is housed inthe ishoused Anenormous s acultivated Anattrac- ) toawater- h

9am-4pm

443 SOUTH AFRICA AFRICA SOUTH SOUTH AFRICA the busymainroad,andbreakfast istaken Good roomsare located awayfrom sensibly 863 3980; 129 Main St;mainsUS$8-10; 863 3980;129Main is awinner. (US$5.50) salad biltong andglazedbeetroot emphasis atthisbreezy café-bistro andthe change atMuldersvlei. lenbosch: Town–bound train and take aCape trains duringthe busy partof theday. frequent onweekends. Take care to travel on are lessNote there isno2ndclass. Theservices US$2/1.10, 1¼hours, Mondayto Friday). TownandPaarlCape (1st/economyclass Metro hourbetween every trainsrunroughly Train buses. train toPaarl andthenlinkingupwiththe thecheaperis US$15,soconsidertaking Paarl between Townsegment andCape easy tobuilditintoyouritinerary.Thebus Paarl, goingthrough soit’s offer services All themajor buscompanies long-distance Bus THERE&AWAYGETTING to dinein. food tomatch andaProvence-style garden dinner Mon-Sat) Wed &Sun) mains US$5.50-9; crafts shop. attached building thatoncewasaschool, andhasan centralcafé.It’sinaVictorian a pleasant US$4; best placestoeat. or dopicniclunches andtheyare amongthe of thelocalvineyardshaveSeveral restaurants EATING garden. openingontoaleafy in theconservatory, St;s/dwithbreakfast US$39/62; 74Main lodge.co.za; (US$5.50) isoffered. tobebooked,ner need andadailybreakfast forexploringthearea.base Lunch anddin- the Bainskloof Rdandisanexcellentbudget fers good-value, well-equippedroomsouton Bainskloof Rd;s/dUS$23/38; 444 Marc’s Mediterranean Cuisine &Garden Cuisine Mediterranean Marc’s Kostinrichting Lodge Rodeberg B&B Bakkies You cantravel bytrainfromPaarl toStel- Madonna De Malle h WESTERN CAPE •• The Overberg WESTERN CAPE••TheOverberg lunch Mon-Sat) Mediterranean comfortfoodisthe A light and bright placewith andbright Alight

( h % (

%

breakfast &lunchWed-Sun, dinner 021-873 5161; www.bakkiesbb.co.za; 021-873 5161;www.bakkiesbb.co.za; ( % Idealifyou’re lookingfor 021-871 1353;19Pastorie Ave; mains ( % ais 021-863 3202;www.rodeberg 021-863 3925; 127 Main St; 021-863 3925;127Main h Thisplaceof- ) lunch Tue-Sun, ( % 021- a

) days inDecemberandJanuary. speedy internetconnections. Rd; perhrUS$2.80; Sat, noon-5pmSun)Eastofthetowncentre. St; us.co.za; OldStationBldg,Mitchell a result, com- thetownhasbecomehighly whale-watching destinationintheworld.As fact thatitisconsidered thebestland-based inpartthankstothe day-tripper’s paradise, Town(122km)hasmadeita ity toCape retains vestiges of itsheritage, itsproxim- founded asafishingvillage, andwhileit Hermanus (pronounced ‘Hair-maan-es’) was % Hermanus autumnandspring. between most speciesflowersomewhere intheperiod its shores. resort famousforthewhalesthatfrequent The first major stopisHermanus, aseaside 44 fromStrand,abreathtaking drive. coastal TownviatheN2(quicker)Cape orviaRte River Valley, isreached theOverberg from which formanaturalbarrierwiththeBreede Wemmershoek andRiviersonderend Ranges, andsouthof Range, the the Franschhoek of Overberg. you’re ‘over theliteral themountain’, meaning lower gears. Onceyou’re upandover thetop, barrier,forcingyoutohitthe mountainous suddenly andunforgivably comeagainsta TownAll roadsheadingeastfromCape THE OVERBERG Humpback whalesare alsosometimes seen. year. togrow every the numbers visitingseem can beupto70whales inthebayatonceand whales cometoWalker tocalve. Bay There JuneandNovember, southern right Between SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES City Internet Tourism Hermanus INFORMATION prolific and anature protecting someof reserve the the surroundingrockyhillsoffer goodwalks beaches, mosteastof thetowncentre, and .co.za) the andcrowded,particularlyduring mercialised There isrespite tobefoundattheappealing This region’s wealthof theregionRoughly southandwestof 028 /pop24,700 Hermanus WhaleFestival in September andduring school holi- inSeptember fynbos ( Book accommodationBook online at lonelyplanet.com % . h 028-312 4683; Waterkant Bldg, Main Bldg,Main 028-312 4683;Waterkant ( % 8am-8pm) Offers reliable and 028-312 2629;www.herman fynbos (www.whalefestival h lonelyplanet.com isunmatched; 9am-5pm Mon- visit ifyouare interested in Adventures Marine Dr; trips US$135) Dr;trips Marine Book accommodationBook online at lonelyplanet.com Rock, KraalRockandSievers Point. manus totheother. Thebestplacesare Castle paths thatrunfromoneendofthe cliff Her- there are someexcellent vantage pointsfrom lonelyplanet.com a hostel, thisisaquiet placewithgood ameni- bathroom & breakfast US$46) Rd;dmUS$11,dwithshared 23Main www.zoeteinval.co.za; per hour). lunch onoffer andaninternet café(US$4 with itsownwaterfall. There’s adailypub big barorchill outintheawesomerockpool awayatthe reviews. Youcanpartythenight room US$27/35; St;dmUS$11,s/dwithshared bath- .mobys.co.za; 9Mitchell inthemorning. served including areed-roof bar. Free breakfast is great décorandfacilities, with clued-upstaff, & breakfast US$28; 26FlowerSt;dmUS$10,dwithsharedmweb.co.za; bathroom Hermanus Backpackers SLEEPING 8100; Fir Ave; admissionfree; 1400-hectare beaches. The andVoelklip out, andLangbaai pass Kraaiwater, agoodwhale-watching look- takes about1½ hours andalongthewayyou’ll surf beach withexcellentfacilities.Thewalk alongnarrow toGrottoBeach, along thesea The Walking US$110) www.sharkcagediving.net; trips operators are into thecage. recommended Themosthighly the dive, someallowsnorkellers although fication isrequired inordertotake partin on whomhave increased of late. scenario, especiallyifyou’re asurfer –attacks sociate humanswithfood.It’snotapleasant killerfisharethat these beingtrainedtoas- to attractthesharkscage, which means nies transportyouthere). Operatorsbait use baai, some53kmalongthecoast(allcompa- this, butmostboatsactuallydepartfromGans- Many operators in Hermanus heavily promote Shark Cage Diving Whales often toshore comevery close and Zoete Inval Travellers Lodge InvalTravellers Zoete Lodge Moby’s Traveller’s An internationally recognised divingquali- Cliff Path Walking Trail Cliff Path Walking

( % s Fernkloof Reserve Nature is 028-313 3287; www.sharklady.co.za; 61 028-313 3287;www.sharklady.co.za; Brian McFarlaneBrian ) Travellers give thisplacerave WESTERNCAPE••TheOverberg . Thisisasmashingplace ) More than aguesthouse

( % h meanders fromtown

( 028-312 4293;moobag@ % 9am-5pm) fynbos

028-313 2361;www ( ( and % % iswortha 028-312 1242; 028-312 2766; . ( Shark Lady %

028-313 mains US$8-13; the onlyso-sofood. restaurant’s remarkable overshadows setting cave,side thewater inanactualseaside this US$7; (US$2.80) to the Baz Bus drop-off point;(US$2.80) totheBaz All three hostels run ashuttle service THERE &AWAYGETTING upmostlyseafood. serves acclaimedrestaurant views,this highly sea the oldestbuildingsintown,withgarden and prawns. fish andthefamousLM(Lourenço Marques) restaurantguese specialising infresh grilled US$8; from aroundthecontinent. where you caneattraditionalAfricandishes kempt butrecommended restaurant andbar, matches theeclecticmenuatthisratherun- Rd; mainsUS$6-11; and diabetics. forvegetarians,also adecentselection vegans There’s atthesea. pastrywhilestaring a sweet bacon, chips, mushroomsandboerewors, or a ‘Whaleof aBreakfast’ juice,coffee, –eggs, Dr;mainsfromUS$5.50; Marine Café Savannah EATING open fordinneronly. hotel has two restaurants, bothsea-facing, is asposhafive-star hotel shouldbe. The immaculate groundsandamenities,thisplace US$230/377; Dr;s/dwithbreakfast from -hermanus.co.za; Marine art onthewalls. balconiesandunique facilities, wrought-iron built inthestyleof aProvençal villa,withfine fast US$99/132; manus.co.za/accom/auberge; 16HarbourRd;s/dwithbreak- are shower-only. rooms are butthebathrooms comfortable, that’s drawnglowingreader reviews. Theneat US$40/59; St;s/dwithbreakfast from 28Albertyn shedguesthouse.co.za; rooms. ties (includingaJacuzzi) andneatlyfurnished Casa doZé Casa Hermanus Marine Burgundy Auberge Potting Shed Burgundy Restaurant Burgundy Bientang’s Cave Café Marimba h h lunch &dinner) ps lunch &dinnerMon-Sat) ais h s (

% ( % ) Anexcellent-value guesthouse h

lunch &dinner)

( ( ) % Thisisawonderfulplace, % 028-313 0377; 12 Mitchell St;mains 028-313 0377;12Mitchell

( 028-312 4259;VillageTheatres Bldg, % dinner)

028-312 2148; 9 Royal La off Main 028-312 2148;9RoyalLaoffMain Nestled in the cliffs be- Nestledinthecliffs ( 028-312 1712;www.thepotting

) % Right on the sea with onthesea Right 028-312 3454; Marine Dr;mains 028-312 3454;Marine (

% ( Thelively atmosphere % 028-313 1000;www.marine h 028-313 1202;www.her 028-312 2800; Marine Dr; 028-312 2800;Marine Housed inoneof Housed AquaintPortu- breakfast &lunch) Enjoy

445 SOUTH AFRICA AFRICA SOUTH SOUTH AFRICA it includesasceniccoastlinewithstretches of bestreserves, of Nature Cape Conservation’s 1776, offers combination of an unbeatable growing Rapidly Swellendam, dating backto % Swellendam dawnanddusk). tween ferry) ontheBreede River stilloperates (be- At Malgas amanually operated Wydgeleë ontheBredasdorp toMalgas road. isvia Town. Theonlyaccesstothereserve include entrancefees intothereserve. person beach Accommodationprices house. options, includingbasiccottages anda10- fromavarietyof canchoose sleeping reserve groups of atleastsixare accepted. tobebookedneeds inadvance, andonly cottages. Thetrail fully equippedself-catering and December. Accommodationisinmodern June whalesbetween lent opportunitiestosee (per personUS$94). interesting feature isthefive-day most snorkelling alongthecoast,reserve’s an overnight mountain-bike trailandgood breeding area whale. forthesouthernright and awealthof birdlife. Thecoastisankey zebra,thebontebok mountain (antelope) Cape lake andPotberg Fauna Mountain. includesthe plusafreshwaterbeach, dunes androckycliffs, US$13, 4-personcottagesfromUS$44; [email protected]; admissionUS$2.80,campsites is sea, Covering 36,000hectares, plus5kmoutto Reserve De HoopNature lighthouse it takes atthenearby tosnapaphotoandpeek there’swise, noreal reason tolinger longer than canbeatmospheric.Other-and crashingseas ernmost pointof Africa. Agulhas Cape offer littleforthevisitorinandof but itself, ofsettlement L’Agulhas unfortunately does the ing more andamussel’, thanaseagull Once described,somewhatcruelly,as‘ noth- % L’Agulhas to Hermanus Town. fromCape there otherwise are noregular busservices 446 The reserve is about 260km from Cape isabout 260kmfromCape The reserve inthe justlookingtospendthenight Those Although thereAlthough are numerousdaywalks, On astormydaythelow,shattered rocks 028 /pop30,000 028 WESTERN CAPE •• The Overberg WESTERN CAPE••TheOverberg De Hoop Nature Reserve De HoopNature , the second-oldest inSouthAfrica. , thesecond-oldest , justsouthof town,isthesouth- Covering 55km,itoffers excel- h

( % 7am-6pm) 028-425 5020; Whale Route pont (river . One

to the reserve. to thereserve. about anything. graphed site intheSouthernHemisphere! residents swearit’sthethird-most-photo- St) (Voortrek Victorian garden. residence datingbackto1853,withaformal Cottage entrance tothenearby ticketfrom 1746.Themuseum alsocovers (residence of which dates itself, anofficial) Sun). US$1.60/0.30; Museum intownistheexcellent The mainsight SIGHTS Bureau Swellendam Tourism INFORMATION when themistrollsinover themountains. and isparticularlyimpressive onacloudyday ridge, partof Range, the1600mLangeberg TownandtheGardenRoute. Cape between and theLittleKaroo. It’salsoahandystopover makes agreat forexploringtheOverberg base whichrolling wheatcountryandmountains, town, dotted witholdoaksandsurroundedby location, beautyandhistory.It’sadisarming stone’s throw away,thisis an excellenthostel river, 15horses andMarloth a Nature Reserve US$23) sites perpersonUS$5.50, dmUS$9.50,dwithshared bathroom 514 2648;[email protected]; 5Lichtenstein St;camp Lodge Adventure Swellendam Backpackers SLEEPING ( the contact 3kmnorthofin theLangeberg Range, town, mountain-bike hire (US$12perday). (US$40),daywinetrails(US$40)and Reserve Sat, 10am-6pmSun) 23Swellengrebel St; [email protected]; out isat ets andtastes. Agoodplacetosortyourself Swellendam hasadventures forallages, budg- ACTIVITIES old missiononthemainstreet. St; Voortrek % For permitstowalkin Popular daytripsincludeDeHoopNature Take apicture of the The townbacksupagainstaspectacular 028-514 1410;daypermitsUS$2) The centrepiece isthebeautiful Set onahuge plotof Set landwithitsown andawatermill; and ( % Bontebok Tours & Travel Tours&Travel Bontebok h inthecentre of town;Swellendam h Book accommodationBook online at lonelyplanet.com 028-514 1138;18Swellengrebel St;adult/child 9am-5pm Mon-Fri, to12.30pmSat)Inthe 9am-5pm Mon-Fri, Nature Conservation Department Conservation Nature 9am-4.45pm Mon-Fri, 10am-3.45pmSat& 9am-4.45pm Mon-Fri, , which seems toarrange, which just seems Dutch Reformed Church Dutch Reformed Old Gaol Marloth Nature Reserve Nature Marloth ( % attheentrance Mayville lonelyplanet.com 028-514 2770; ( % h ; the 028-514 3650; 9am-6pm Mon- , another (

drostdy % Gaoler’s Gaoler’s Drostdy 028-

Book accommodationBook online at lonelyplanet.com 8 Weltevrede St;s/dwithbreakfast8 Weltevrede US$120/202; right outside.right Buswilldropyou ing andgigantic.TheBaz dinners (aroundUS$5.50)are mouth-water- with enthusiasticmanagement. Homemade lonelyplanet.com also offers Town (US$19). ashuttle toCape bok Tours &Travel (see opposite ). Bontebok Town andPortElizabeth, stoppingatBonte- Cape Swellendam on their runsbetween BuspassthroughTranslux plusthe Baz Intercape, SARoadlink,Greyhound and THERE&AWAYGETTING candlelit setting. inanintimate crocodile toostrich –isserved of from mostlyAfricanmeat–everything trek St;mainsUS$10; pizzas here are large fortwo. enough grebel St;mainsUS$4-8; Africancurios. and high-quality snacks, traditionalbreads, excellentservice wonderful littlecoffee shop,offering delicious plex, Swellengrebel St;lightmealsUS$4; beside theKoringlandsRiver. Masonic lodge withshadedoutdoortables tearoom, agoodspotforlunch, isinanold mains US$2.80-7; La BelleAlliance EATING daily winetastings. with asurprisinglypersonal touch andfree the DeKloof isasupremely stylishguesthouse datingbackto1801, inanestate options, set pais knowledgeable, friendlyhosts. viewsand boasts abeautifulgarden,fantastic Edwardian home This quiet,graciousCape 13 Van OudtshoornRd;s/dwithbreakfast US$47/67; MalayCape dishesandwood-fired pizzas. restaurant (mainsUS$9.50toUS$11)serving try innhas10cosyroomsandanexcellent coun- view.ThisCape swim withamountain 5DrostdySt;s/d US$43/59; jevandekaap.com; and asaltwater pool. 200-year-old withagorgeous house garden are five individuallydecorated roomsinthis St;s/dUS$34/67; tage.info; 3Voortrek Koornlands Restaurant House Steak Mattsen’s CoffeeShop Old Gaol De Kloof Roosje Van deKaap Braeside B&B Cypress Cottage Cypress ( % ) Oneof Swellendam’sswankiest h

(

( % WESTERNCAPE••Route62 % 028-514 1303;www.dekloof.co.za; breakfast &lunch)

h ( % h 028-514 3325; www.braeside.co.za; 028-514 3325;www.braeside.co.za; 028-514 2252;1Swellengrebel St; ( dinner)

( % 028-514 3296;www.cypresscot lunch &dinner) % (

% ( 028-514 3847; Old Gaol Com- 028-514 3847;OldGaol % 028-514 3001;www.roos Aneclecticmenu 028-514 2715;25Swellen- 028-514 3567;5Voor- Thisappealing h as Thedelicious lunch) s Thisisa ) There Take a a Take ) a ) in 1851,it’s agoodplaceto goifyouwantto picturesque, Founded invigorating Montagu. is spread countryhospitality capees, thick in Populated byartists,dreamers andother es- % Montagu Town. route fromCape the ordertheywouldbereached driving the to thenorth. better watered thantheharsher Great Karoo Breede River Valley andismore fertile and chant thepalate andrelax thebody. ahot-springsresorting B&Bsandeven en- wine,countrycafés,charm-while delectable dotted with ostriches provide eye-candy, towns andvaststretches of plains semi-arid 18th-centuryvalleys, perfectly preserved andintensively passes cultivatedmountain Town andtheGardenRoute. Breathtaking alternative totheN2fortravel Cape between in theworld,provides anexcellenthinterland This area, promoted asthe longest wineroute 62 ROUTE is abundant. zebras.Birdlifehartebeests andmountain there are rheboks,grysboks,duikers, red with flowers. Inadditiontothebonteboks early spring,theveld (grassland)iscovered swimming ispossible. Inthelate winter and and isonthebanksof theBreede River, where in large numbers. marked antelope thatonceroamedtheregion of theendangered bontebok, theunusually May-Sep) sites US$10,dcottagesUS$27; National Park Some 6kmsouthof Swellendam is NationalPark Bontebok in Swellendam. Town and Oudtshoornstops Cape between (US$11, twohours). Bay (US$1.40, 2½hours, daily)andMossel Town includesCape Service rol station. Voortrek pet- Sts,bytheCaltex andStasie two hours). (US$12, Bay 2½ hours, twicedaily)andMossel Intercape fares Town(US$13, includeCape The Little(Klein)Karoo iseastof the The parkfallswithinthecoastal The townsinthisregion are presented in The weekly departfromthecornerofMinibus taxis 023 /pop9500 , set aside to ensure the preservation asidetoensure, set thepreservation ( % Southern Cross 028-514 2735;adult/childUS$8/4,camp h 7am-7pm Oct-Apr, to6pm 7am-7pm Oct-Apr, trainthatruns fynbos Bontebok Bontebok

447

area SOUTH AFRICA AFRICA SOUTH SOUTH AFRICA efficient andhelpful. efficient cottages (US$27). tages have converted been intoself-catering property, where colourful oldworkers’ cot- chickens andpecan-nuttrees inthis 7-hectare forbackpackersine farm-stay –there’s ariver, sites perpersonUS$4,dmUS$6,s/dUS$16/23; De Bos SLEEPING ofthe start thetrails. handles bookingsforovernight cabinsnear costs US$2.40perperson. Thetourist bureau at theendof Tanner St.Tohike eithertrail hours. fromthecarpark Bothtrailsstart 12.1km andcanbecompleted infourtosix climbs to1000m.The traverses ravines streams, andmountain and and canbewalked hours; insixtoeight it restoredhas been toitsVictorianfinery. (builtin1853)and inMontagu the oldesthouse 12.30pm Sat,10am-12pmSun) US$0.40/0.10; House Joubert 12.30pm Sat&Sun) child US$0.40/0.10; the amples of antiquefurniture canbefoundat spots andcanget tricky(andwet). route toprock-climbing leadspastMontagu’s Trails park attheendof St.Pick upthe Barry 2.2km properties, thepoolsare lively onweekends. 43°C, energising andrenowned fortheirhealing Springs Hotel, about3kmfromtown.Heated to its wayintotheconcrete poolsattheAvalon US$2; 1150; admissionUS$3.40,parking Water fromthe SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES Sat, 9.30am-12.30pm&3-5pmSun) 24BathSt; montagu.co.za; into atopRoute 62destination. in old-worldbuildings–thathave turnedit of activities–hotsprings,hikes, heartymeals architecture, splendidrange butit’sMontagu’s ments, includingfineexamplesof ArtDeco of theLittleKaroo. escape the21stcenturyandget abrieftaste 448 The There are some24restored nationalmonu- For hikers, the Interesting displaysandsomegoodex- A great waytoget here istohike alongthe Montagu Museum leafletfromthetourismbureau. The

WESTERN CAPE••Route62 ( % Lover’s WalkTrail Lover’s Tourism Bureau Tourism 023-614 2532;www.debos.co.za; BathSt;camp h

( % 9am-1pm & 2-4.30pm Mon-Fri, 10.30am- 9am-1pm &2-4.30pmMon-Fri, h intheoldmission church. hot mineralsprings 023-614 1774;25LongSt;adult/child 9am-1pm & 2-5pm Mon-Fri, 10.30am- 9am-1pm &2-5pmMon-Fri, Bloupunt Trail (

% h (

% , which atthecar starts , ashortwalkaway,is 023-614 1950;41LongSt;adult/ 8am-6pm Mon-Fri, 9am-5pm 8am-6pm Mon-Fri, 023-614 2471; www.tourism 023-614 2471;www.tourism Cogmanskloof Trail office isextremely office h is15.6kmlong 8am-11pm)

s ( % Agenu- ) 023-614 Hiking Hiking finds is favourite, menusandplentyof withseasonal .co.za; BathSt;s/dwithbreakfast.co.za; US$52/79; in acosyatmosphere. ternut ravioli andpan-fried springbokstrips, upinventive bistrodishes, such asbut- serves h too. Mondaynights. Closed ists. There’s internet access(US$6perhour), characterise thisbreezy caféloved bylocalart- a solidvegetarian menuandfresh ingredients lunch &dinner) Succulent Café EATING the hotspringsandhikingtrails. location justafew minutes’ walkfromboth ing withamanicured gardenandanideal inacharmingluxury guesthouse Karoo build- 7ChurchSt;s/dwithbreakfast.co.za; US$54/81; draw rave reviews. fireplaces. The five-course dinners (US$20) but allcomewithmarblebathroomsand isuniquelydecorated this elegantguesthouse 11BathSt;s/dUS$54/81; .co.za; obliging andthebreakfast excellent. Thehostsarelooking outonthemountains. withspaciouswood-flooredhouse rooms accommodation inaroomythatched-roof the world isnooverstatement. birds These asthe That it bills itself ofostrich capital % Oudtshoorn Oudtshoorn (US$5.50,2½hours). Town(US$15,3½hours) and run toCape market the hotspringsforanextraUS$1.40. Town.It’llalsotake youonto andCape tagu h and PortElizabeth(US$23,sixhours, daily). Town(US$16,2½hours, daily) Cape between stop atAshton, ontherun 9kmfromMontagu, Translux THERE&AROUND GETTING pumpkin colourtheme. fresh fishspecials. Welove theburgundy-and- US$8-12; Local minibus taxis leaveLocal minibustaxis fromthe Munnik’s Josephine’s 7 ChurchStreet Jessica’s Lodge Kingna Wed, Fri, Sat &Sun) Wed, Fri, dinner) 044 /pop85,000 Airlies GuestHouse (BathSt) h

( Namedafter thefamilydog,Jessica’s %

( lunch & dinner Mon-Fri, dinnerSat) lunch &dinnerMon-Fri,

Streamlined design,qualitycoffee, % Book accommodationBook online at lonelyplanet.com 021-449 3333; www.translux.co.za) 021-449 3333;www.translux.co.za) ( nearthecornerof Market Stand %

(20 BathSt;mainsUS$2.80-8; ( 023-614 1805;47BathSt;mainsUS$8-12; %

(

( 021-637 1850;perpersonUS$9.50; % % runs a shuttle between Mon- runs ashuttlebetween 023-614 3939;63BathSt;mains 023-614 1066;www.kingnalodge 023-614 1186;www.7churchstreet (

% 023-614 2943;www.airlies s lonelyplanet.com ) Each roomat Each s h ) Alocal Quaint OK Super- breakfast, s buses buses ) A Included intheticket priceisadmissionto the CP Nel Museum. the CPNelMuseum. to see. example of a‘feather palace’asyou’re likely Rheede St;adult/childUS$1.40tt/3; Rheede Book accommodationBook online at lonelyplanet.com called ‘feather barons’builtthegrandhouses feathers. Oudtshoornboomed,andtheso- were made fromthefashionforostrich and attheturnof the20thcentury fortunes have bred been hereabouts sincethe1870s, lonelyplanet.com north of Oudtshoorn. choice of tours onoffer. The caves are 30km but impressive.ily commercialised There’s a caves.co.za; admissionfromUS$7; place’, the there isawaterfall andsmallvisitorcentre. ing masterpieces, andhalfwaydownthelatter via the to PrinceAlbert,thenreturn toOudtshoorn driving andtake the north of Caves, carryon townortotheCango makeCape, itthisone. only onewildlife encounter intheWestern creatures communicate and live. Ifyouhave intelligent curious,highly howthese up close kilometres westof town,youwillget to see & sunrise) minimumdonationUS$40; .meerkatmagic.com; his so-called Meerkat Man of Oudtshoorn.On asGrantMcIlrath,the as much devotion Sts; & High the esting Karoo history,make upthislarge andinter- Extensive displaysaboutostriches, aswell SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES St; ( the N12)andGreat Karoo. the GardenRoute (it’s55kmtoGeorge along different environmentsof theLittleKaroo, Oudtshoorn isagreat forexploringthe base biltong allover town–butmore importantly ists –youcanbuyostrichfeathers eggs, and the ostriches alsopaytheirwaywithtour- breeding thebirdsformeatandleather, today. that lendthetownitsdistinctatmosphere % Everyone loves butnonewith ameerkat, h The helpful Named after the Khoesaan wordfor‘awet Named after theKhoesaan If you’re goingtooneof theostrich farms The townstillturnsapretty pennyfrom 044-279 2532; www.oudtshoorn.com; Baron van Rheede 044-279 2532;www.oudtshoorn.com;BaronvanRheede Le RouxTownhouse meerkat 7am-5pm Mon-Fri, 9am-1pmSat&Sun)isn 7am-5pm Mon-Fri, CP Nel Meiringspoort Pass Meiringspoort at a natural meerkat colonyafewat anaturalmeerkat h Cango Caves Cango 9am-1pm &2-5pmMon-Fri)

museum experience WESTERNCAPE••Route62 Oudtshoorn Tourism Bureau Oudtshoorn Tourism Swartberg Pass Swartberg ( ( %

%

(

% ( 044-272 7306;3Baronvan . Bothare engineer- % h 044-272 7410;www.cango h 044-272 3676;cnrLoop 044-272 3077;www 9am-4pm) 9am-5pm Mon-Sat) , asgoodan alltheway are heav- h ext to sunset .

gant cottage furniture, woodenfloors, ostrich chalets US$51; St;campsitesUS$16,4-person 171BaronvanRheede .co.za; a restaurant andabigpool. service toJo’burg (US$43, 14½ hours, daily). service Intercape THERE &AROUND GETTING chef Olga’slove forMuscovite ingredients. thankstoskilful spersed withRussiandelights stylish bistrowithanimaginative menuinter- US$8-11; and alarge of selection pastas. includes ostrich cooked wayimaginable, every andthevaried menu loads of outdoorseating, recommendedthis highly restaurant. There’s atmosphere isjustanothergoodmarkfor St;mainsUS$7-9.50; Rheede MalayCape dishesare legendary. the foodthatultimately takes centre stage. The boththepalatedelights andtheeyes,butit’s mains fromUS$7; one formoranother. ostrich in As you’dexpect,mostplacesserve EATING and bararea. couple of poolsandabeautifuloutdoorbraai add-ononeslessso.the separate There’s a ‘Feather Palace’ have bagsof charm, though Rooms, allwithprivate entrance,inthe1905 Rd;s/dwithbreakfast US$70/95; 209 JanvanRiebeeck There’s lushgardensandanexcellentpool. andqualitylinenmakeeggs, each roomspecial. St;s/dUS$53/84; 99BaronvanRheede .co.za; centre attached. ostrich-egg breakfasts. There’s anadventure hostel dorm-bed hasa separate annexe andfree US$34; per personUS$5.50,dmUS$9,rfromUS$24,dwithbathroom St;campsites 148BaronvanRheede packersparadise.hostel.com; ming poolarea, andshadycampingspots. large withaspaciousbraaiandswim- house run, thisrecently refurbished hostel isina shared bathroomfromUS$24; Church St;campsitesperpersonUS$4.70,dmUS$8,dwith Oasis Shanti SLEEPING Kalinka Kalinka De Fijne Keuken Adley House Oakdene Guesthouse Paradise Backpackers Jemima’s Kleinplaas Resort is h

( ( % % lunch &dinnerdaily,breakfast Sat&Sun)

s

( ) ( Inalarge thisexcellent oldhouse, % % 0861-287 287; www.intercape.co.za) 044-279 2596; 93 Baron van Rheede St;mains 044-279 2596;93BaronvanRheede

( % ) h Aterrific caravan park,with 044-272 0808; 94 Baron van Rheede St; 044-272 0808;94BaronvanRheede 044-279 1163; [email protected]; 3 044-279 1163;[email protected]; 044-272 4533;www.adleyhouse.co.za;

lunch Fri, dinnerdaily) lunch Fri,

( ( % % ( % h

( 044-272 6403;114Baronvan 044-272 5811;kleinpls@mweb % s 044-272 3018;www.oakdene lunch &dinner) 044-272 3436;www.back ) Friendlyandwell as Thefunky Jemima’s as Ele- ) has 449 A

) SOUTH AFRICA AFRICA SOUTH SOUTH AFRICA 449 3333;www.translux.co.za) Wilderness and Buffalo Bay. Wilderness andBuffalo tenberg weprefer though Bay, lesscrowded are asbases monly used KnysnaandPlet- Karoo.the semidesert Thetownsmostcom- splitthecoastfrom roadpasses, spectacular bysome andcrossed 1000m and1700mhigh and Tsitsikamma which are Ranges, between inlagoons.Inland,theOuteniqua and canoe monkeys, chill outonsuperbwhite beaches communewith wildlife through reserves, hotels andcharming guesthouses. withtherangefolks willbepleased of swanky plenty of hostels, andmidrange andtop-end travellers. Backpackers are taken care of with tenberg intheeast,itcaters Bay toallkindsof inthewesttojustbeyondPlet- Bay Mossel wildlife andoutdooractivityisbreathtaking. kilometres, therange of topography,vegetation, and withgoodreason. Withinafew hundred TownandtheKrugerafter NationalPark, Cape nationally renowned SouthAfricandestination The Garden Route isperhapsthemostinter- GARDEN ROUTE leaves Townat5pm. forCape Backpackers’ Paradise (US$4.70). you canarrange atransfer toOudtshoornwith multiple destinations(see opposite ). one hour,daily)andfromthere youcanget to youcantake a Otherwise 450 Cape Town(220km) To Swellendam(52km); GARDEN ROUTE Every Saturdaythe You canhike inold-growth forests, bike encompassingthecoastlinefrom Roughly BusstopsatGeorge, fromwhereThe Baz N 2 WESTERN CAPE •• Garden Route WESTERN CAPE••Garden R323 Vermaaklikheid R305 Jongensfontein Riethuiskraal Garcia's Pass Groot Riversdale L

a to Mossel Bay (US$7, Bay toMossel

n Southern Cross Stilbaai

g Translux bus

e

b e

Cape Barracouta r

Still Point g Albertinia Bay

(

% Groot

train

R327 River 021- Gourits Bridge Du Plessis Pass

Gouritsmond R325 Gourits 3371) helpful. h cost aroundUS$8.Inlate winter andspring Thetripslastonehourand the trainstation. voyage of discovery. onhis1488 European tovisitthebay,used is thereplica of thevessel thatDias,thefirst US$0.80; complex Museum of the The highlight SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES surf spots. facing beach inthecountryandsometop plentyofto stay, activities,theonlynorth- part toitshistoricbuildings,excellentplaces town isenjoyingarevival, thanksinlarge (and anaggressive marketing campaign),the trial sprawlin1980s.Followingaclean-up wasmarred Bay byrampantindus- Mossel Once oneof thejewelsof theGardenRoute, % Mossel Bay be. itmight nothingelse, seen it,itisn’tadisaster.seen Ifyouleave having but ifyouleave SouthAfricawithouthaving machine. Allinall,theGardenRoute isgreat, ( % might feel likemight you’re acoginhuge tourist outof control,andattimesyou seemingly Herbertsdale There are regular boattripsonthe The 8am-6pm Mon-Fri, 9am-1pmSat&Sun) 8am-6pm Mon-Fri, 044 /pop78,000

In recent years hasspiralled development N

2 044-690 3101) River Islandfromtheharbourbehind toSeal To Oudtshoorn h Tourism Bureau Tourism (Kanon Point) Cape Vacca Ruitersbos Eight Bells (60km) Brandwag 8.30am-4.45pm Mon-Fri, 9am-3.45pmSat&Sun) 8.30am-4.45pm Mon-Fri, Vis Bay Little Brak R328 andthe (

% River Dana Bay Great O

u

Brak t

e St;admission 044-691 1067;Market Rv n Hartenbos Bartholomeu Dias Maritime DiasMaritime Bartholomeu i

Mossel Bay q

Little u (

%

a

Brak Seas Seven

M

Cape St Rv o Blaize

044-691 2202; Market St; 044-691 2202;Market

u n

Outeniqua t N

2

Mossel Bay

a i

Herold's Bay lonelyplanet.com n

Blanco s Pass 12 N is extremely

To Oudtshoorn ( % 29 (40km) R Romonza 044-691 Pass Montagu George ὈὈ

N 9 62 R N 2 stone mansionisfriendly,smartlydecorated Book accommodationBook online at lonelyplanet.com cage dives andsnorkelling toviewgreat white US$160) St;trips Ochrebaan.co.za; Sq,Market trips (US$54,twohours). the lonelyplanet.com but the compartments sleeping twoorfour but thecompartmentssleeping besidethebeach,train, right can’tbebeat, bathroom US$14/28) SantosBeach;dmUS$10,s/dwithbreakfast.co.za; &shared bathrooms are located therooms. between the doublesare hardlyquietsincetheshared and hasbeautifulpond-filled gardens,though bathroom fromUS$30; St;dmUS$12,dwith shared www.park-house.co.za; 121High higher-end isattached. guesthouse impressive newandfullyequippedkitchen. A and wellrun.Itoffers apoolandbaran Marsh placeisreliable St,thislong-established bythebeach atthePointandbarsClose on US$7.50, dmUS$11,dwithshared bathroomUS$30; St;campsitesperperson .gardenrouteadventures.com; 1Marsh Mossel BayBackpackers SLEEPING fered inlarger cities. preferable tothezoolike townshiptours of- and KwaNonqabatownships–immensely visits withtraditionalmealsinnearbyTarka ( three-quarters live, contact sharks. % Wilderness Victoria ὈὈ Shark Africa Santos Express Centre Park HouseLodge&Travel If you’re interested howtheother inseeing Bay Romonza 083-262 2307;4-hrtourUS$55) W ESTRNCAP Sedgefield Wilderness Molenrivier NP Goukamma Barrington alsorunsspecialwhale-watching

( Thelocationof thisconverted %

WESTERN CAPE •• Garden Route WESTERNCAPE••Garden ( NR % i Phantom 044-691 3796;sharkafrica@mweb Belvidere Buffalo Ὀ Ὀ 044-691 1995;www.santosexpress Noll Bay Pass Pass Homtini ) Thisplaceinan1860s

-on-Sea Brenton R339 Speelmanskraal ( % The Heads Knysna , which offers home 044-691 3182;www Knysna National R340 Alfred's Meet thePeople Meet NR NP MR LEGEND Prince Lake Area ( % Pass

Noetzie Harkerville Nature Reserve National Park Marine Reserve organises 044-691 1937; N 2 To Uniondale(14km); Ὀ Ὀ N9 (14km) is NR &MR Robberg Keurbooms

Keur ) Bay Plettenberg

NR bo o

m s US$5.50-8; seafood creations.seafood well asthemore and commonostrich, beef drop youattheVoorbaaiShell petrolstation, don’tcomeintotown;they buses distance solong- thehighway, isoff Bay Mossel THERE&AWAYGETTING and salads. platters, sushi,seafood fish between choose and oceanviewsdisheduphere. Youcan h try its traditionalAfricandishes,sonowyoucan US$5.50-9.50; offers justabouteverything. fine choice forabeachside meal.Themenu bathing pavilion (hencethename),thisisa whatticklesyourfancy. andsee a cruise Marsh Take Bay. StisthepartystripinMossel EATING has alarge meatandpizzamenu. seafood, rant (breakfast/lunch/dinner US$5.50/6/11) ment of theoldpostoffice building.Itsrestau- chain’s hotels, thisisacharacterful refurbish- s St;s/dfromUS$93/120; Market .proteahotels.com/mosselbay; a very large menu,overlooking thewater. bar-restaurant (mainsUS$5.50toUS$8)with Crags The are undeniably cramped.There’s anattached Kingfisher Jazzbury’s Pavilion River MosselBay Hotel Protea lunch &dinner) ) mopane Oneof themore individualof theProtea Nature's Louterwater Misgund Valley ὈὈὈ ὈὈὈ h T

s I NDAOCE N h i Bloukrans (

t worms and Cape Malay wormsandCape foodas

% ( lunch &dinner)

s % ( Pass

i

% k dinner)

Locals love dishes theseafood a 044-690 4567;SantosBeach;mains

044-690 6390;PointRd;mainsUS$6-13; m R102 044-691 1923; 11 Marsh St;mains 044-691 1923;11Marsh Tsitsikamma

Joubertina

Coastal NP m a

Jazzbury’s hasbeefed up M N

0 0

1

o u

Storms n Ina19th-century River

t ( 64

R

% a

Kouga

i

n s

Storms 044-691 3738;www River

River Witelsbos E ASTRN To PortElizabeth C APE 30 miles 50 km

(169km)

451 SOUTH AFRICA AFRICA SOUTH SOUTH AFRICA jet Jacuzzi. andabathroomwithsix- with satellite TV town. Roomsare inthatched-roof rondavels, this friendlyhotel –possiblythebestdealin popular branch in nearbyWilderness. the bestrestaurants hereabouts, withanother thisisoneofand Cajun steaks andseafood, from US$7; a healthspaandfew restaurants. range of top-notch accommodationoptions, courses. Thehotel andcountryclub hasa the towncentre, andhasfour18-holegolf area’s mostluxuriousplace,about 10kmfrom Montagu St,Blanco;dfromUS$363; as .frenchlodge.co.za; 29YorkSt;s/dwithbreakfast US$67/108; LodgeInternational French SLEEPING &EATING here. models,areas wellmanydetailed retired Some11locomotivesright. and15carriages, Courtenay St.It’sworthvisitinginitsown sion bydonation; on the pointandterminus forjourneys The starting SIGHTS 9am-1pm Sat) 124YorkSt; www.tourismgeorge.co.za; Outeniqua Choo-Tjoe coast andformostpeopleitschief drawisthe tractive oldbuildings,butit’s8kmfromthe little tokeep visitors forlong.Ithassomeat- commercialcentrethan animportant with on theGardenRoute yetremains littlemore George, foundedin1811,isthelargest town % George hours, twicedaily). twice daily)andPortElizabeth (US$15,5½ Town(US$17, 7¾hours, twice daily),Cape daily), Plettenberg (US$15,2½hours, Bay includeKnysna(US$15,1¾hours,Bay twice Intercape fares fromMossel beth services. stop here TowntoPortEliza- on theirCape you intown. you ifgive Buswilldrop notice. TheBaz 7km away.Thehostels canusuallycollect 452 the Check out Fancourt Hotel Fancourt Reel n’Rustic Reel Greyhound, Intercape andTransluxbuses 044 /pop170,000 Steam TrainMuseum Steam WESTERN CAPE •• Garden Route WESTERN CAPE••Garden ) French bush-lodge stylemeets chic at Outeniqua Choo-Tjoe h forhelponaccommodation. lunch &dinner) h George Tourism George

( %

( % 7.30am-6pm Mon-Sat) 044-884 0707; Courtenay St;mains 044-884 0707;Courtenay 044-804 0000; www.fancourt.com; 044-804 0000;www.fancourt.com; steam train. SpecialisinginCreole

( %

( % as 044-111 8295;admis-

044-874 0345;www h ( steam trainis % 8am-5pm Mon-Fri, 8am-5pm Mon-Fri, Thisisthe 044-111 9295; ) , justoff Continental EuropeanandtraditionalSouth Continental west of town. Choo-Tjoe pull intothe village.Takes forthe reservations 1pm Sat,3-5pmSun)This officeisjustofftheN2asyou Rd; Village, George Milkwood per hrUS$8; can callthehostels inOudtshoornforshuttle Johannesburg (US$50,16hours, daily). (US$38,10hours, daily)and Bloemfontein Town(US$15,6½hours,twicedaily), Cape Elizabeth (US$17,five hours, twicedaily), berg (US$13,1½hours, Bay twicedaily),Port (US$1.40, 45minutes, twicedaily),Pletten- Bay (US$13, onehour,twicedaily),Mossel ism office. Intercape fares includeKnysna locatedtrain station 2kmsouthof thetour- while Intercape andTransluxstopatthe Spur steak situated onthemainstreet,house stop inStMark’s Sqbehind theGeronimo and theGardenRoute. Greyhound services Johannesburgand ontheirrunsbetween TownandPortElizabeth Cape between airport ( Kulula THERE&AWAYGETTING just outsideGeorge. dlelit dinners atthiswell-appointed eatery lunches ontheterrace and atmosphericcan- breakfasts,African cuisinecombineforbuffet St, Blanco;mainsUS$7-9.50; Wilderness Tourism Bureau Wilderness Tourism Café Internet INFORMATION don’t have avehicle. scattered, makinglife ifyou very difficult isquiteonly drawbackiseverything widely show. The popular butthankfullyitdoesn’t lagoons. AllthishasmadeWildernessvery bird-richwhite estuariesandsheltered sand, stretch of coastlineof rollingbreakers, milesof ests andsteep hillsrundowntoabeautiful old-growth for- itall:dense The namesays % Wilderness TownandOudtshoornstopshere.Cape there. services % Bus services stop inGeorge ontheirroute Bus services Het Vijfde Seizoen Het Vijfde The Baz Bus drops off intownandyou Busdropsoff The Baz The weekly The weekly 044 0861-737 737;www.flynationwide.co.za)

(www.kulula.com) ( steamtrain. % h 8044-76 9310) Book accommodationBook online at lonelyplanet.com ( 8am-5pm) % Southern Cross 044-877 0951;5WildernessCentre;

( and % , which isabout 15km h h 044-870 7320; 3 Maitland 044-870 7320;3Maitland ( % breakfast, lunch&dinner) 8am-6pm Mon-Fri, to 8am-6pm Mon-Fri, Nationwide Airlines 044-877 0045; lonelyplanet.com train between trainbetween flyto Outeniqua Outeniqua George

hand at abseiling (US$32) andkloofinghand atabseiling and to rent (US$15perday)ortryyour acanoe Book accommodationBook online at lonelyplanet.com .eden.co.za; WildernessNationalPark).eden.co.za; can try Wilderness isjam-packed withactivities. You ACTIVITIES lonelyplanet.com sna lourie andmanyspecies of kingfisher. The rich birdlife includes thebeautifulKny- of manyspecies. that are forthe survival vital system of lakes, rivers, wetlandsandestuaries h s i h T Wilderness NationalPark pizzas. blackened sirlointoCajun, aswelldecent is aninteresting of selection steaks, from trees andmurals inthegardenarea. There US$3.40-9; (mains US$11). choice. Itsrestaurant recommended ishighly a two-minute walkfromthebeach, isagood rounding landscape,thisluxuriousplace,only US$120/132; Rd;s/dwithbreakfastwww.palms-wilderness.com; George dinners are served. all withmagnificentlagoonviews.Delicious units, B&Bdoublesorself-catering between offeringis awell-runguesthouse achoice reviews fromreaders, andwecan’targue: this St;dwith/withoutbreakfast US$70/59; 713 North as ‘Africancute’. from thebeach, andhave décorbestdescribed B&B intown,allroomsare three minutes breakfast US$24/40) just alongthelane. comes tothedoorandsteam trainstops Bus away.TheBaz building somedistance The barandcaféare inanotherpretty little lowwood floors andsomeoriginalfittings. hasyel- leafy grounds,this1874farmhouse i person US$8,dmUS$11,dwithshared bathroomUS$32; .redcard.co.uk/fairyknowe; DumbletonRd;campsitesper Fairy KnoweBackpackers SLEEPING &EATING a strongripmeansbathingisnotadvised. toursises of thearea. canyoning (US$32).Thecompanyalsoorgan- Wilderness Grille Interlaken B&B Village The beach here isbeautiful,butbewarned: Palms WildernessGuestHouse 8am-5pm Jan-Nov,to7pm Dec) ) Overlooking ariver, inspacious, set Overlooking national park Eden Adventures h s lunch &dinner)

( )

Blendingperfectly intothesur- % ( Withoutadoubtthebest-value % WESTERN CAPE •• Garden Route WESTERNCAPE••Garden ( 044-877 1374; www.interlaken.co.za; 044-877 1374;www.interlaken.co.za;

%

( 044-877 1187; George Rd;s/dwith 044-877 1187;George % 044-877 1197;adult/childUS$8/4; 044-877 0808; George Rd; mains 044-877 0808;George Sitoutsideamongthe

( ( % % covers a unique ifyou’re looking 044-877 1285;www 044-877 0179;www

( % 044-877 1420; p Rave ) US$5.50; Look for the enormous elephant skeleton inthe storefront. Look fortheenormouselephantskeleton 1pm Satyear-round,plus8.30am-1pmSunDec, Jan&Jul) St; knysna.co.za; 40Main wilderness area. Much isstillprivately owned, (13 sqkm)isnot a nationalparkor Lagoon 2095; www.sanparks.org; LongSt,Thesen’sIsland) regulatedAlthough by Knysna Lagoon SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES Knysna Tourism Café Adventure INFORMATION (www.pinkloerie.com) friendly credentials withthe July, whileinMay thetownconfirmsitsgay- and earlyOctoberan tors swellsandgetting aroundcanbehell. whenthenumberof visi- ticularly inseason, youshouldlookelsewhere,undeveloped, par- for it.Butifyou’re after somethingquietand range of activities,meanithasplentygoing eatanddrink,wide good placestostay, gay-friendly sylvansetting, vibe, ‘ny-znah’) surrounded byforests, Knysna’s(pronounced Perched ontheedge of aserene lagoonand % Knysna attitude. not much luxurybuttonsof atmosphere and ofpart because itslegendary parties.There’s the besthostels inthecountry,atleast d withshared bathroomUS$24,mealsUS$4-7) That’s aboutit,andit’smore thatenough. beach-shack backpackers andanature reserve. beach, onlyatinyenclave of holidayhomes,a un-Garden Route: surf along,almostdeserted 17kmwestof Bay, Knysna,isdistinctly Buffalo % Buffalo Bay from Wilderness. Flow South.It’spossibletowalkthepark in thepark,Ebb&FlowNorthand rondavels withshared bathroomUS$28,dforest cabinsUS$47) sailors anidealvenue. lakes offer windsurfers anglers, canoeists, and lakes, thebeach andtheindigenous forest. The Tees an There’s Wild SideBackpackers There are twosimilar There are nature inthe several trailstaking 044 /pop54,000 044 h 9am-7pm) High-speed internetaccess. 9am-7pm) High-speed ( ( arts festival arts % % . 044-382 4959;1GraySt;perhr 044-382 5510;www.tourism h (

% 8am-5pm Mon-Fri, 8.30am- 8am-5pm Mon-Fri, camps SAN Parks 044-383 0609;dmUS$9.50, in late September inlate September oyster festival oyster Pink Loerie Festival Pink Loerie (camp sitesUS$20,d

( isoneof % , Knysna 044-382 453 in

SOUTH AFRICA AFRICA SOUTH SOUTH AFRICA ship of Concordia, bestvisited onan excellent Sprawling above andbehind townisthe town- Township Tours &Homestays Reserve Nature and takes youtotheprivately owned afour-hourcruise, thatincludeslunch affair riverboat offers therecommended Featherbed with lunchUS$34/15; adult/childUS$11/4.70, www.featherbed.co.za; Waterfront; The take acruise. and aprivate nature trailonthewestern head. good viewsfromalookoutontheeastern head, knownastheHeads. cliffs, sandstone There are recreation. two Thelagoonopensupbetween byindustryandforand thelagoonisused 454

To Ashwill (1km):

Wilderness (40km);

George (67km) 4 1 3 2 KNYSNA The bestwaytoappreciate thelagoonisto

Handel St Short St Short

WESTERN CAPE •• Garden Route WESTERN CAPE••Garden 9 Graywood Hotel...... SEAL Adventures...... MV JohnBenn...... Knysna Tourism...... Adventure Café...... SLEEPING SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES INFORMATION ihil akakr...... C1 Highfield Backpackers...... Knysna Lagoon

Faure St

AC Kloof St Kloof Telfin Heights Sports Field , where you’llbedriven around. Agnar St h 7

Knysna Quays MV JohnBenn

departs 10am,11.30am &12.30pm) departs Hedge St Hedge 3 11

Knysna Town

Rawson St Rawson

Trotter St Trotter Nelson St Nelson ὈὈ ὈὈ 6 5 4 3 2 1 4 13

Station

Train

B2 B3 A3 B1 B3 2

(

% League St TRANSPORT EATING ne erlSain...... C2 Engen PetrolStation...... Minibus TaxiRank...... Oystercatcher...... De OudeFabriek...... Yellowwood Lodge...... Knysna Backpackers...... Inyathi GuestLodges...... 1 Gray St 044-382 1697;

Yacht Club B

Waterfront Dr Waterfront Fichat St Fichat

Main St Main Gray St 5 Featherbed 10

Voortrekker St Church

Sq Mortimer St Mortimer Ὀ 0831; theHeads;toursUS$34) $US27) mostly withtimberfromthenearbyforests. collect maps andinformation attheregional ests, and youcanbookwalking trailsand There are excellenthikes inthe Knysna for- Knysna Forest Trails GlendyrratKnysna Tourism contact communityorinthetownship, Rastafarian inthecountry. munity of Rastafarians Grass Routes neighbourhood, thelargest com- but thenaddatwist.You’llalsoget tovisitthe theusualtownshipand take sites youthrough The two-hourtours are ledbylocalguides tour runby

Long St St Metcalfe

Gordon St Gordon Long St

Graham St Graham

Hill St Hill

Newton St Newton

High St High

Gray St Gray East Head Caffé (5km); Paquita's (5km); Paquita's (5km); Caffé Head East If you want to stay overnightIf youwanttostay ineitherthe

13 12 11 10 The Heads Adventure Centre (5km); Centre Adventure Heads The

9 8 7

Knysna Oyster Company (800m); Company Oyster Knysna 8

or Woodbourne Resort (4.5km); Resort Woodbourne 12 B3 A3 B1 A2 C1 A2

Market

Under Milk Wood (5km) Wood Milk Under

To SAN Parks (600m); Parks SAN To St Queen Sq Queen St Queen

The Heads Adventure Centre HeadsAdventure The

Eco Afrika Tours Eco Afrika Rd Melville

Tide St Tide

Market St Market

Clyde St Clyde

Spring St Spring

Green St Green

Cove St Cove Pitt St Pitt

New St

Union St

Montagu St Montagu

6 Lakeview

0.2miles 300m 0 0 Church St Church .

Homes here are built (

% N

Waterfront Dr 2

To Plettenberg Bay (30km) ὈὈ ὈὈ ὈὈ lonelyplanet.com

Thesen's 082-925 0716;tours

Island D

( % .

044-384 .co.za; George Rex Dr;campsitesUS$16,chaletsfromUS$44) Rex George .co.za; cliff-jumping forUS$54. cliff-jumping and canoeing trip –quadbiking,abseiling, also runsanAwesomeFoursome adventure Book accommodationBook online at lonelyplanet.com .highfieldbackpackers.co.za; 2 Graham St;dmUS$9.50,d 2Graham .highfieldbackpackers.co.za; Other Activities Other ofper dayincludingtheuse trailhuts. Long St,Thesen’sIsland). office of lonelyplanet.com tubs, others withstained-glass windows. timber lodges –some with Victorianbath with accommodation inuniquelydecorated imaginatively inKnysna, designedguesthouse St;s/dfromUS$59/77) -sa.com; 52Main room withaircon. andviewsofsetting thelagoon.There’s one Yellowwoodhouse, boastsalovely garden traditional andsumptuouslydecorated guest- 18HandelSt;s/dfrom US$54/108; lodge.co.za; Yellowwood Lodge Midrange the Heads. a littlewayoutof town.Follow thesignsto It’saquietplace and simplechalets withTVs. Here you’llfindspacious,shadedcamping more like aB&B. on attractive doubleswithbrassbeds,feels withitsfocus Highfield, spacious oldhouse, without/with bathroomfromUS$27/34) quieter andmore relaxing thanotherplaces. hill afew blocksupfromthemainstreet. It’s this large onthe andspruceVictorianhouse room fromUS$24) 42QueenSt;dmUS$9.50,dwithshared bath- netactive.co.za; Knysna Backpackers Budget SLEEPING ( are availableture with Reserve equipment canberented forUS$12. some of SouthAfrica’sbest spots. Snorkelling short-entry scubadives (US$11toUS$16) Heads) Heads The in thearea; bymakinginquiriesat start There are plentyof otheractivitiesonoffer trip US$38; trip served. % Inyathi GuestLodges Backpackers Highfield Quad-biking tripsintheFeatherbed Na- Woodbourne Resort 044-382 5599;Shop1,ProteaHotel,KnysnaQuays;2½hr . Amongthepossibilitiesare boatand h SAN Parks

Adventure Centre Adventure departs 11am&3.30pm) departs You’llfindmainlydormbedsat WESTERN CAPE •• Garden Route WESTERNCAPE••Garden

( ( % % Overnight hikes costUS$6 Overnight Potjiekos

(

% 044-382 5906;www.yellowwood ( 044-382 2095;www.sanparks.org; (

% %

044-382 2554;knybpack@ ( 044-384 0316; 044-382 7768;www.inyathi %

( dinners are often % 044-382 6266;www Thisisthemost . Thecompany Located ina 044-384 0831;the SEAL Adventures SEAL

w48@mweb as A )

Knysna oysters are allon themenu. African dishes –gamemeat, crocodileand someinterestingvivial spottosample South ping centre thisrestaurant setting, is acon- and pasta areand pasta available atthisideallylocated thegraywood.co.za; cnrGray&TrotterSts;s/dUS$64/85; thegraywood.co.za; mains US$6-11; (US$5) isscrumptious. andcream eggs salmon, cheese breakfast ing thelagoonandocean, smoked fast spot.There’s anoutdoordeckoverlook- US$5.50-7; the water. There’s alsoaSundaycarvery. restaurant andbarnexttotheHeads on right US$5.50; afterwards. and wildoyster forUS$2.80atitsrestaurant ing plantandhave of atasting acultivated goon; youcantake atourof theprocess- 1949, growsitsownoysters outinthela- h Thesen’sIsland;mainsfromUS$5.50; .mbendi.co.za/koyster; great waterside setting. dishes,ina tapas oyster, andother seafood foursizesof farmed a relaxed placeserving US$4.70; Oystercatcher EATING is essential. from6.30pmto8.30pmdaily;booking served award-winning six-course Pan-African dinner decorated tree Atleastvisitforthe houses. designedandelegantly 14cleverly comprises 6km westof Knysnaoverlooks thelagoonand as www.phantomforest.com; s/dUS$270/323,dinnerUS$30; shores of KnysnaLagoon. logcabinsonthe impressive self-catering of etically namedplace,thisisaseries highly Dr;cottagesfromUS$245; .com; Waterfront Wood Under Milk Top End top-notch. upgrading isimpressive andthefurnishings the sizeof compartments.Still,the sleeping Hotel, hasroomsabout the formerCaboose as De OudeFabriek Paquita’s Eco-Reserve Forest Phantom Graywood Hotel East HeadCaffé Company Knysna Oyster lunch &dinner) ) ) This 137-hectare private ecoreserve This137-hectare private ecoreserve Therecently rebranded Graywood, h h h lunch &dinner) lunch &dinner)

breakfast &lunch) ( h %

( %

lunch &dinner) 044-384 0408;theHeads;mainsfrom Thiscompany,openedin ( % (

( % 044-382 9995;KnysnaQuays;tapas

% ( % 044-384 0745;www.proteahotels 044-382 5723; cnr Main &GraySts; 044-382 5723;cnrMain 044-384 0933;theHeads;mains Seafood, steaks, pizza Seafood, TheOystercatcher is 044-382 5850;reservations@ Ourfavourite break-

( % Despite itsshop-

044-382 6941;www ( % 044-386 0046; a ) Apo-

455 SOUTH AFRICA AFRICA SOUTH SOUTH AFRICA .intercape.co.za) 456 Sun) Internetaccess. h 6007; First St;perhrUS$4; NationalBankBldg,Main there’s alottodo in Plett. ing onthe Robberg Peninsula (see opposite ) Apart fromlounging onthebeaches orhik- ACTIVITIES Plett Tourism Café Shop&Internet Computer INFORMATION coast andindigenous forest inSouthAfrica. in particularissuperb,withsomeof thebest very good-value hostels. Thescenerytotheeast retains a relaxed, friendlyatmosphere andhas busy andsomewhatoverpriced, butthetown tourist spots.As aresult, thingscanget very water makingitoneof thecountry’stoplocal white andcrystal-blue with mountains, sand known, isaresort andthrough, townthrough Plettenberg or‘Plett’asit’smore Bay, commonly % Bay Plettenberg Saturday andpublicholidays. KnysnaandGeorgeruns between dailyexcept The historic Train Town(US$20,7½hours, daily). and Cape Plettenberg (US$2.80,30minutes, Bay daily) nexttothetouristoffice. Routesstation include stopisattheShellThe mainminibustaxi petrol Minibus Taxi Jo’burg (US$52,17hours, daily). hours,Town (US$20,eight twicedaily)and Elizabeth (US$11,3¾hours, twicedaily),Cape (US$12,1¾hours, twicedaily),Port Bay Mossel include George (US$11,onehour,twicedaily), are expensive onshort sectors.Intercape fares than travelling withthemajor buslines,which Route, you’re better looking for aminibustaxi For travel nearbytownsontheGarden between St) (Main .greyhound.co.za) www.translux.co.za) The major companies, Bus THERE&AWAYGETTING 9am-1pm Sat April-Oct) 9am-1pm SatApril-Oct) h St; Corner ShoppingCentre, Main Mellville’s bay.co.za; 8.30am-6.30pm Mon-Fri, 9am-6pmSat,9am-4pm 8.30am-6.30pm Mon-Fri, 044 /pop34,000 8.30am-5pm Mon-Fri Nov-Mar year-round,plus Nov-Mar 8.30am-5pm Mon-Fri WESTERN CAPE •• Garden Route WESTERN CAPE••Garden ; Baz Buswilltake youwhere; Baz youwant. , allstopatthe ( and Outeniqua Choo-Tjoe % , Greyhound 044-533 4065;www.plettenberg Intercape Translux

( ( % % Engen petrolstation ( % 0861 287287;www 021-75 6363;www

( % 044-533- steam train 021-449 3333; [email protected]; 5WilderSt;dmUS$10,dwith/without this great hostel runbyfriendlypeople. Surf Centre, Main St; breakfast/dinner US$4/11; Centre, Main bar area with satellite TV, yetyoucanstillfind bar area withsatellite TV, owner-run anditshows.There’s ahappening cious, YHA-affiliated, award-winninghostel is budget optionintown,thisspotlessandspa- shared bathroomUS$31/28) stellar oceanviewsfromthebalcony. for theupstairs dormwithhuge windowsand Albergo canorganise justaboutanything.Try shared bathroomUS$30; 8ChurchSt;campsites per personUS$7,dmUS$10,dwith .co.za; forBackpackers Albergo SLEEPING so justphone. ofto alllevels surfers. have Itdoesn’t anoffice, ( the lesson through (US$34, 2½hours). Adventures theforestthrough forUS$15perhour. east of PlettontheN2,offers horse riding US$39 for2½hours on12-person boats. Centre, HopewoodSt) 4963; Milkwood Centre, HopewoodSt) ( areseason available with Miguel’s EATING worth thestay. restaurant. The(heated) pool here aloneis rooms,aspa andafirst-classwith fantastic thisfive-startas, palaceispure decadence, on arockyheadlandwithbreathtaking vis- 40 ChurchSt;s/dfromUS$200/350; whales anddolphins. great beable even tospot views –youmight offers individuallydecorated rooms,allwith colourfulbeachfrontThis bright, guesthouse 75BeachyHeadDr;dwithbreakfastwinkle.co.za; fromUS$155) about 6kmeastof Plett. and boogieboardscanbehired (US$1.40).It’s bathroom US$24; dwithshared Keurboomstrand; 50IfafiProperties, global.co.za; peace andquietinthelarge grounds. % % Plettenberg GuestLodge Periwinkle Abalone BeachHouse wantingtotrysurfingcantake a Those Equitrailing Nothando Backpackers Hostel Nothando Backpackers Boat tripstoviewdolphinsandwhalesin 082-636 8431;3½hrlessonUS$40) 044-533 5083; www.oceanadventures.co.za; Milkwood 044-533 5083;www.oceanadventures.co.za; Milkwood

( % ( % Book accommodationBook online at lonelyplanet.com 044-533 5056; Mellville CornerShopping 044-533 5056; Mellville

i

( ( % % 072-751 1798) and ) It’sahoptothebeach from 044-533 2030;www.plettenberg.com; 044-533 0599) i ( (

% International Surf School Surf International % ) Wellrunandfriendly, Ourchoice forbest Ocean Safaris (

% 044-533 4434;www.albergo 044-535 9602;beachhouse@ Ocean BlueAdventures has sea kayaking hassea 044-533 1345; www.peri 044-533 1345;www.peri . Tripscostabout ais , located 11km lonelyplanet.com

( , which caters % h 044-533 0220;

( % breakfast, ) 044-533 Built Dolphin

east ofeast Plettenberg protects a4km-long Bay, US$5.50-8; windows andpatioseating. andairywithfloor-to-ceilingmenu, it’sbright lunch &dinner) lonelyplanet.com quiet whitewashed fishing villages, beautiful getaway. You’llcome across and undeveloped the WestCoastand Swartland,apeaceful desolate andwindswepthillsof mountains and explore thejagged coastline,rugged, way localsdoit,headnorthof Town Cape If you’re the keen todotheWestern Cape &SWARTLAND WEST COAST thesigns. see Robberg Valley Piesang Rd,off Rd,untilyou problems! Togetwith knee here headalong very rockyandnotfortheaged oranyone marine life andcoastal-dune proximately 11kmlong,withrich intertidal and rocks.There’s agreat circularwalkap- peninsula witharugged coastlineof cliffs h Reserve This Marine & Nature Robberg Sts. and High leave fromthecornerof Kloof –services taxi minutes) you’re aminibus better taking off fontein (US$40,12hours, daily). Reinet (US$26,5½hours, daily)andBloem- Jo’burg (US$52,18hours, daily),Graaff- hours, Town(US$20,eight twicedaily), Cape Elizabeth (US$11,three hours, twicedaily), (US$12 1½hours, three timesdaily),Port .co.za) town. Buswillcomeinto City ontheN2;Baz All themajor stopattheShell buses Ultra THERE&AWAYGETTING ambience. rave andoverall reviews foritssteaks, seafood mains US$8; ravioli (US$6). Try thehomemadespinach andcream-cheese onasunterrace.refreshing served cocktails oysterout Italian barwithheartypizzasand mains US$7-9.50; and char-grilled steaks. mouthwatering pizzas,pastas favourite serves Cranzgot’s Pizzeria Pansy Shell Cornuti AlMare If you’re headingtoKnysna(US$1.20,30 7am-5pm Feb-Nov, to8pmDec&Jan) sample fares sample fromPlettinclude:George reserve reserve Intercape h h breakfast, lunch&dinner) A modernplacewithaneclectic (

dinner) % h ( % WESTERNCAPE••WestCoast&Swartland

044-533 6016;OldNickShoppingCentre; lunch &dinner) (

044-533 2125;admissionUS$2.80; % Thisformalrestaurant gets ( % (

% 0861-287 287;www.intercape 044-533 1277;1Perestrella St; 044-533 1660; 9 Main St;mains 044-533 1660;9Main Astylishlydecked Thisperennial fynbos, , 9kmsouth- butit’s hectare Cederberg Wilderness Area,hectare Cederberg which is A goodproportion isprotected bythe71,000- CitrusdalandVanrhynsdorp.100km, between and valleysextend north–southfor roughly Thepeaks amust-see. desolate Cederberg andgreenmountains valleys allmake the andruggedmations, Sanrockart,craggy Bizarrely shapedweathered for- sandstone CEDERBERG WILDERNESSAREA towns intheregion. west of thewildernessarea, are thetwomain and Clanwilliam,tothesouthwestnorth- Citrusdal Range. Cederberg the spectacular force. Theeastern side islargely boundedby byahugeimmaculately maintained labour floor are someacclaimedwineriesandco-ops, cultivated Olifants River Valley. Onthevalley yousuddenlyoverlook theintensively Piekenierskloof Pass; comingnorthonthe The scenerychanges dramaticallyatthe Valley Olifants River May isbetween andAugust. rainy season the Postberg ismore section than80km.The tothenorthernendoftrip fromLangebaan Town, 7kmsouthof Thereturn Langebaan. September. berg which isopenfromAugustto section, in thepartof theparkknownasPost- October. animal speciescanbeseen Several play, which Augustand isusuallybetween are hometo coloniesof jackasspenguins. insummer.thousands Theoffshore islands ing colonies.Wadingbirdsflockhere bythe breed- seabird significance andimportant park authorities. some of which are bythenational onlyleased a peculiarmixof zones, semi-independent around 18,000hectares andismadeupof 6am-8pmOct-Mar). 7.30pm Apr-Sep, admission flower/nonflowerseasonUS$4/2.70; is the mous numberof migratorywadingbirds andhometoanenor- Lagoon Langebaan Encompassing theclear,bluewaters of the West CoastNationalPark hours from the Cape Peninsula.hours fromtheCape dish of SouthAfricancabaret allwithinafew upabig valleys andacountrytownserving lagoons, hiddencampingspotsindramatic The parkprotects wetlandsof international The park is only about 120km from Cape The parkisonlyabout 120kmfromCape The parkisfamousforitswildflowerdis- West CoastNationalPark Theparkcovers

( % 022-772 2144; h

7am- 457 SOUTH AFRICA AFRICA SOUTH SOUTH AFRICA is thischarming placenearthePakhuis Pass dm US$7,cottagesperpersonUS$13) d cottagesUS$51) 458 picnic and fullyequippedstone cottages for There are swimming holesand lovely spotsto shaded site alongsidetheRondegat River. with exceptional groundsinabeautiful, huts. grounds, withexcellentself-catering liam. It’sasmallcountryhomein attractive on Rte 364,about15kmnortheastof Clanwil- Wilderness Area. outsidetheCeder ing, forplacestostay berg CitrusdalandClanwilliam,bothfollow- See Sleeping tobringyourownfood. will need tomakeneed arrangements. so ifyou’re you’ll arrivingonFridayevening or haditposted hours, toyou)duringoffice haven’t already Town organised itinCape You canonlycollectyourpermit(ifyou at4.30pm(9pmonFriday). Ground closes spot. weekends youmaybeable toget oneonthe well inadvance. Outsideschool holidaysand and maximumgroupsizeislimited. Apply and thenumberof visitors perhikingarea US$2.70/1.30) isrequired ifyouwanttowalk, there’s likely tobevery littlewater. and possiblysnow.FromDecembertoApril May totheendof expectrain September your own. on the trails,butit’suptoyousurvive wilderness ethos.Youare is agenuine wildernessarea withagenuine area hasanetworkof this trails.However, hiking areas of around24,000hectares. Each isdividedintothree excellent The Cederberg Orientation &Information elusive leopard. foxes,racals, Cape honeybadgers and the ers andgrysboks;predators such asca- populations of baboons, rheboks,klipspring- at othertimesof theyear. There are small flowers, there’s although plentyof interest Nature offices ofadministered by thePorterville A Cape NatureA Cape permit(adult/child thewild- Spring isthebesttimetosee There are noeatingplacesinthearea soyou The entrancetotheAlgeria Camping Algeria Algeria Kleinkliphuis There’s forwalking;from no real season WESTERN CAPE •• West Coast & Swartland WESTERN CAPE••WestCoast&Swartland ( % ( % 022-931 2088;www.capenature.org.za) Thisisthemaincamping spot, 027-482 2404;6-personcampsitesUS$13,

( % 027-482 2564;campsitesUS$3.40, encouraged Anotheroption toleave . Cape 2945; Beaverlac Nature Reserve; campsitesUS$4) 2945; BeaverlacNature Reserve; end of themainstreet, across fromtheold roofed with acharming guesthouse garden. with breakfast US$40/67; 2884; dUS$64; including the inthesurroundingmountains places tostay and hikingtrails. and provide biking informationonmountain 9am-1pm Sat) St; .citrusdal.info; 39Voortrekker times forhiking. can bespectacular. Thisisalsooneof thebest andthedisplays tember iswildflower season, AugusttoSep- for exploringtheCederberg. The smalltownof Citrusdalisagoodbase % Citrusdal &Around on thisroute. inCitrusdalhasinformation vator’s office area atBoskloof. TheChiefNature Conser- Citrusdal toAlgeria, entering thewilderness ent. Ittakes abouttwodaystowalkfrom Clanwilliam andtheN7. Town,accessible fromCitrusdal,Cape isabout 200kmfrom Range The Cederberg Getting There &Away Saint duBarrys town’s museum. tronk h architecture andtrees linethemainstreet. examplesof Dutch Cape sort. Well-preserved town of Clanwilliam apopularweekend re- makeroads intotheCederberg thecompact The adjacentdamandsomeadventurous dirt % Clanwilliam &Around Springbok (US$19,five hours). Town(US$18,three hours)include Cape and outsidetown.Destinations the N7highway to forget campingspotof Citrusdal andthehardtoreach butimpossible % ( entry fee. Nature IfAlgeria isfull,callCape donotincludethepark noncampers. Rates A 120-year-old banyantree loomsover The on Intercape stopatthepetrolstation buses The There are interesting several andbeautiful Public transportintoAlgeria isnonexist- 8.30am-5pm Mon-Sat,to12.30pmSat) 022 /pop9000 027 /pop37,000 022-931 2088)forothercampingareas. (jailinAfrikaans),which doublesasthe tourism bureau tourism information centre canhelpyoufindaccommodation as Book accommodationBook online at lonelyplanet.com

Elephant Leisure Resort Elephant Leisure ( % ) , aserene spot9kmoutside 027-482 1537;13Augsburg Dr; s/d as

( % ) h , a pleasant thatch-, apleasant Beaverlac

022-921 3210;www ( 8.30am-5pm Mon-Fri, 8.30am-5pm Mon-Fri, lonelyplanet.com % isatthetop 027-482 2024; ( (

% % . 022-931 022-921 C19 Clanwilliam, stoppingatthepostoffice. Town(US$12,three hours) Cape gothrough Springbok(US$15,fivebetween hours) and thetwo.utes between running Minibustaxis Clanwilliam.It’sabout 45min- go through lonelyplanet.com the red of sands theKalahari tumbleintothe comes alive. Inthislandof contrasts stark is aplacewhere theAfricaof storybooks With arestless airof energy, untamed this surely is SouthAfrica’slastgreat frontier. populatedvast andsparsely Northern Cape Covering nearlyathirdof thecountry, CAPE NORTHERN McDougal's Fish RiverCanyon Nolloth NORTHERN CAPE NR NP Desert Reserve GR DR LEGEND Hondeklip Bay Ὀ Ὀ All the buses that go through Citrusdalalso thatgothrough All thebuses A TLNIC

Bay

Bay Alexander Port B4

O CEAN Konk

NP iep

Nature Reserve National Park Game Reserve B 1 Kleinsee Rv Mariental Keetmanshoop Richtersveld N 7 Vioolsdrif Nababeep R382 NP Namaqua

Vredenburg Fish NP

B Orange 1 Nuwerus NORTHERN NORTHERN CAPE Steinkopf To Windhoek Velddrif

14 River N N AMIB Okiep N 7 Springbok C16 (180km) Kamieskroon Garies C15 Lambert's Vanrhyns Pass ὈὈὈ ὈὈ N ὈὈὈὈὈ ὈὈὈὈὈ Goegap NR

a C17

Clanwilliam River Bay Grünau m

a Onseepkans q

B 3 Olifants Sout u

Vanrhynsdorp

Citrusdal

a River

Rv l

Gaiab River Gaiab Rietfontein a To CapeTown Nieuwoudtville

Pass Pakhuis nd

Hantamsberg Auob Wuppertal (235km) Pofadder (1673m) R358 Loeriesfontein

27

R Doring R357 Botterkloof Pass Augrabies Falls NP

Tankwa ὄ ὄ Ὀ River Calvinia Karoo Nakop W ESTR NCAPE NP 10 N

R355

Andriesvale

Nossob

Fish 27

R

River

Upington River Twee RivierenGate

Transfrontier Brandvlei Kakamas Sak R360 M

Kgalagadi Williston

Riet U o Grootvloer K alhri B OTSWAN

Sutherland l Park

o Pass Komsberg p River p

Spitskop Keimos p 63

o R The

NR e 66% of theprovince speakingit. the mostwidelyspoken language withabout up themajority of thepopulation.Afrikaansis whereCape) coloureds, andnotblacks,make inces inSouthAfrica(theotherisWestern Hollywood movies steal theshow. big,orange-ballthe evening madefor sunsets Kgalagadi TransfrontierPark atdawn,andin preystalk acrosscrimsonplainsinremote of technicolour wildflowers inspring.Lions endless spaceandburst intoamiraculoussea land, where roadsdissolve intoanoblivionof sun-scorched lunarlandscapeof Namaqua- kopjes

Kenhardt R Groblershoop 31 Fraserburg tic Coast;whiletheKaroo’s strange-shaped churning, inky waters of thedesolate Atlan-

R

r i McCarthy's Rest

N ORTHE v

The Northern Cape isoneofThe NorthernCape onlytwoprov- Creek e

Carnarvon

K r Tshabong a Orange C APE K

u (small,rockyhills)collidewiththe r r u o 10 N m Beaufort

o Zylsrus Van

Sonstraal a To CapeTown Marydale River n West N 1 Vosburg (235km) (Griquatown) R380 Koegelbeen Caves Witsand NR Griekwastad Loxton 14 N R384 R375 Kuruman 120miles 200km 0 0 Prieska Victoria West Britstown Hotazel N ORTH-WES 64 R 31 Werda R P ROVINCE Ὀ 12 Richmond Murraysburg N Vaalbos Hopetown

Caves Wonderwerk De Aar

Danielskuil River Orange Rock ArtCentre Wildebeest Kuil Graaff-Reinet Strydenburg R357 To George NP Philipstown E ASTRN Douglas (280km) Hanover C APE

Seacow Rv Vryburg Taung Doornkloof

48 Harts NR R N Barkly West 1 Middelburg Modder River To Bloemfontein (20km); Maseru S TAE F RE

Kanye Kimberley

Hartswater

River Johannesburg River Vaal River Mafikeng Lobatse Colesberg N (140km) 9 Elizabeth (250km) (100km) 47 To Port R 459 To 12 N

49 R 10 N SOUTH AFRICA AFRICA SOUTH SOUTH AFRICA Circular Rd) rants, shops, acinemaandgiant diamond now fills ittowithin150m of the surface, waterground experiences. At800m deep, complex withinteractive displaysandunder- aglass-enclosed be abletoviewit through ing hours. As you’ll fortheBigHole itself, display. Phone foradmission pricesandopen- dubbed the by. Whencompleted, thetouristycomplex, tions worthUS$4millionwhenwe stopped dug holeintheworldwasundergoing renova- The area surrounding thelargest manually THE BIGHOLE Sights and canarrange tours of thearea. tein Rd; tre graded andvalued.The centre, where SouthAfrica’s diamondsare is Harry south of OppenheimerHouse, the shantytown. from thedayswhenKimberleywasarowdy The towncentre of isatangle streets inherited &Information Orientation running. regardedthe oncehighly tours were nolonger unfortunatelyalthough atthetimeof research the historyof againstapartheid– thestruggle shewe Township isinextricably linked with TheBigHoleisamazingandtheGale- sight. oftively lights Kimberleyare bright awelcome history. would change of thecourse thecountry’s Consolidated MinesCompany)and Beers most powerfuldiamondconglomerates, De out allclaimsandfoundoneof theword’s had arrived onthescene(hewouldlater buy John Rhodes miners inthevicinityandCecil diamond heydayof thelate 1800s. transportedbeen backtotherough-and-ready of theold-worldhotels andyou’llfeel you’ve dark smokyinteriors inone orspendanight one of theatmosphericoldpubswiththeir definitely worthafew Step days’pause. inside of andalso thecapital theNorthernCape old diamondtownwithachequered past,it’s Kimberley istheepicentre of theregion. An % KIMBERLEY 460 After alongslogacrosstheKaroo therela- By 1872there were anestimated 50,000 Kimberley’s most noticeable tall building Kimberley’s mostnoticeabletall

( 053 /pop166,000 % h NORTHERN CAPE •• Kimberley CAPE••Kimberley NORTHERN 053-832 7298; [email protected]; 121Bultfon- 053-832 7298;[email protected]; , willhave numeroushotels, restau- 8am-5pm Mon-Fri, tonoonSat) 8am-5pm Mon-Fri, Big HoleProject Diamantveld Visitors Cen- Visitors Diamantveld

( % 053-833 1557;West hasgoodmaps digs and city-sightseeing trips. digs andcity-sightseeing of tours includingbattlefieldtrips,diamond .diamondtours.co.za; toursfromUS$20) h .htm; BarklyWestRd;adult/childUS$1.40/0.70; ( past,this of theKhoesaan ties andpromote arenewed understanding help create jobsforthepoorlocalcommuni- Built withagrantfromthegovernment to CENTRE WILDEBEEST KUILROCKARTTOURISM more withsmilesthantrouble. and goduringthedayyou’lllikely bemet ticularly dangerous, andifyouhave transport could easilychange. Thetownship isnotpar- tours were nolonger this operating,however at thetimeof research organised township against the struggle apartheid. Unfortunately, sourceofSoweto asanimportant activistsin The satellite townshipof Galeshewerates with TOWNSHIP GALESHEWE clude inNovember 2006. for thekids. areaalso includesadiamond-digging perfect a reconstruction of Kimberleyinthe1880s.It ready excellent carted away. before 14.5millioncaratsof diamondswere mond miningstoppedhere in1914,butnot which still leaves animpressive void.Dia- visitors centre at the minegate. the life of aminer. Thetours depart fromthe takes undertheearthtoget youdeep a feel for outskirts. Mine, 5kmeastof thecentre onthecity’s treatment andrecovery plantsatBultfontein 11am Mon-Fri) De BeersTours Tours west of town. peoples.ThecentreXun andKhwe is10km Also check outthe20-minute filmonthe walkingtours. outontheself-guided start playerbeforeheadphones andacassette you ismarkederty. Each andyouwillbegiven There are 10rock-artdisplaysontheprop- 5pm) % Underground tours Underground The renovations were scheduled tocon- The complexwillalsoincorporate theal- Diamond ToursUnlimited 9.30am Mon,8amTue-Fri) 053-833 7069;www.museumsnc.co.za/wildebeestkuil is worth visiting for the cause alone.is worthvisitingforthecause offers groupvisitstothediamond

( % Kimberly Mine Museum Mine Kimberly 053-842 1321;toursUS$2;

( % , also run by De Beers, , alsorunbyDeBeers, 053-842 1321;toursUS$11;

( % offers avariety tourism initiative initiative tourism lonelyplanet.com 053-861 4983;www , set upas , set h h 9am & 9am- the swimmingpoolonahotdayorlounge in camp sitesUS$3.40,plusperpersonUS$2; Book accommodationBook online at lonelyplanet.com the grassundershady trees; eitherwaythiscen- Park Big HoleCaravan Sleeping lonelyplanet.com in Kimberley on its run between Jo’burg/Pre-in Kimberley onitsrunbetween Translux BUS (US$200, twohours). link.co.za) 1½ hours). fromJo’burg (US$135, regular direct services SA Express AIR &Away There Getting is afavourite withlocalsandtouristsalike. poshBarnato’s phere andprofessional service, for itscreative gourmetmenu,elegantatmos- 12; pub grub. uphearty thatserves atmospheric citystaple back intoKimberley’sminingheydayatthis cular Rd;mainsUS$4.70; loads of ambienceandarooftop patio. alongwith of food andpizzaare Italian served US$4.70-11; Umbertos Eating in Kimberley. charming thebestluxuryoption guesthouse andatea gardenmakecan hospitality this r US$135; cheaper doublesare inthemainhouse. andfullkitchenettes; with sittingrooms,TV flatscome spotless inside,theself-contained 9BishopsAve;.co.za; rfrom US$40; old-style restaurant isattached. ken graciousambienceof atimelongpast.An with cosywell-loved roomsandthesoft-spo- from US$40) rooms share bathrooms. towards anorphanedchildren’s home. Most clean andyou’llfeel goodknowingprofits go and theroomsare tiny,butit’salsosparkling US$15/24) trally located campsite isanappealingspot. Bishop’s Lodge h Barnato’s Star oftheWestHotel House Edgerton Savoy Hotel Stay-A-Day lunch & dinner Mon-Fri, dinnerSat,lunchSun) lunch &dinnerMon-Fri,

has a direct service to Cape Town toCape hasadirect service It doesn’t have Itdoesn’t much atmosphere ( as

% Anold-fashioned hotel thatcharms ( ( h % %

( % 011-774 3333; www.translux.co.za) 011-774 3333; www.translux.co.za)

SAAirlink ( lunch &dinner)

053-832 5741;229DuToitspanRd;mains % 011-978 5315;www.saexpress.co.za) ( % ) 053-833 4110;6DalhamRd;mainsUS$8- NORTHERN CAPE••Upington NORTHERN

Exquisite furniture, Exquisite Afri- ( % 053-832 7239;72LawsonSt;s/dfrom

053-832 6211;15OldDeBeersRd;r ( h %

( % 053-831 7876;www.bishopslodge

( breakfast, lunch&dinner) 053-831 1150; 5 Edgerton Rd; 053-831 1150;5Edgerton %

( 053-830 6322;WestCircularRd; % Bigheartyportions 054-838 3337;www.saair as 053-832 6463; North Cir- 053-832 6463;North s Modern and ) ) Cooloffin Known stops Step has stifling). for anafternoon stroll (iftheheatis nottoo create acalmandquietatmosphere perfect lazy river viewsandendlessrowsof trees side streets andyou’ll enter aworldwhere the centre of town,butstep ontooneof the tered withsupermarkets andchain stores line clut- Kalahari slightly slog.Wideboulevards to catch yourbreath oneitherendof along and prosperous Upington isagoodplace On thebanksof theOrange River, orderly % UPINGTON US$0.20. Big Holecomplex. the hour(9amto4pmdaily)andruns the terminus houron nearthetownhallevery (one way/return US$1/1.90)thatdepartsfrom the citycentre. costsaboutUS$20. Ataxi The Kimberleyairportisabout 7kmsouthof Around Getting slow andcircuitousroute viaKimberley. Durban (US$16,18hours, takes a weekly) the (US$11, ninehours, three and timesweekly); Pretoria viaKimberley andBloemfontein mond Express (US$11, ninehours) viaKimberley;the Town (US$20,18hours) andJo’burg/Pretoria The TRAIN Town(US$18,10hours). Cape hours), Upington(US$10,fourhours) and (US$10, twohours), Jo’burg (US$16,seven (US$7,2½hours),Bloemfontein Kuruman centre. DestinationsfromKimberleyinclude around theIndianshoppingcentre inthecity areaThe mainminibustaxi inDuncanSt MINIBUS TAXI on theN12. the Shell busterminal UltraCitylong-distance Diamantveld Visitors stopat Centre. Buses through fares androutes. ( ( Town (US$31,10hours, daily). hours, daily)andCape toria (US$19,seven % % Book tickets forallthree companies A minibus taxi aroundtowncostsabout A minibustaxi antiquetram Kimberley hasonesurviving 054 /pop53,000 012-323 1154;www.greyhound.co.za) 0861 287287;www.intercape.co.za) Trans Oranje Trans Karoo Tickets forAfrica Tickets runsovernight Jo’burg/ between between Cape Townand Cape between runs daily between Cape Cape runsdailybetween

( % 053-832 6043) have similar and Greyhound Intercape , atthe 461 Dia-

is

SOUTH AFRICA AFRICA SOUTH SOUTH AFRICA town’s cheapest optionoffers arange of huts 426 8489) s .lemustupington.com; 14BudlerSt;s/dfromUS$80/95; St; dwithbreakfast US$54; facilities andluxuriouslydecorated rooms. and hasimpeccableservice this guesthouse [email protected]; [email protected]; (US$23, 10 hours), Cape Town(US$24, 10 (US$23, 10 hours), Cape son Sts.Fares fromUpington includeJo’burg supermarket nearthe cornerof Mark andBas- neartheCheckersYou’ll findminibus taxis MINIBUS TAXI compact cars forUS$54. rent 4WDsforaboutUS$130perday,and Upington airport.There isa There’s anagent for CAR RENTAL times weekly). Town(US$30,10½ hours, fourand Cape Namibia (US$34,12hours, fourtimesweekly) Pretoria (US$35,10hours, daily),Windhoek, ( For tickets gotothe BUS fromtheairport. taxi Hotels in Upingtonusuallyprovide afree Town(US$260,Sunday toFriday). Cape to/from Jo’burg (US$260,daily)andto/from SAAirlink AIR &Away There Getting to theriver. creation,fairy-tale andrunallthewaydown friendly lodge withtwocosyroomsare a withfirmmattresses.comfortable for money.Theroomsare small,butvery ontheriver,Right thisplaceisgreat value 4BudlerSt;s/dUS$38/51; guesthouse.co.za; bank of theriver. on tranquilgroundsadjacenttotheeastern and bungalowsshadedcampingspots campsitesUS$8,rfromUS$20; kharahais.gov.za; Eiland HolidayResort Sleeping Sat) 462 % The helpful Le Must River Residence River Le Must Lodge Garden Riviera Guesthouse Affinity ) isintheKalahari OranjeMuseum. The classiest of the Le Must franchises, TheclassiestofMustfranchises, theLe 054-332 6091;Lutz St) NORTHERN CAPE••KgalagadiTransfrontierParkNORTHERN agent insidetheRiver City Inn.Both ( % 054-838 3337; www.saairlink.co.za) 054-838 3337;www.saairlink.co.za) tourist office tourist h . Buses runtoJo’burg. Buses and

( s % ( 8am-5pm Mon-Fri, 9am-noon 8am-5pm Mon-Fri, %

Intercape Mainliner office Mainliner Intercape ( Avis % ) 054-331 2101;www.affinity Thegardensatthis

054-334 0286;tourism@ ( % 054-332 6554;16Budler ( %

054-432 3971;www ( Europcar Europcar % 054-332 4746) 054-332 6046; s as ( % The ) flies 082- a at )

supports large populationsof birds,reptiles, itisricher thanitappearssemidesert, and Africa. of thelargest protected wildernessareas in National Park inBotswana,makingitone South AfricaandtheMabuasehube-Gemsbok former Kalahari-Gemsbok NationalPark in Kgalagadi istheresult of amerger the between experience. shifting red isanawesome andwhite sands the shadeof acamelthorntree inalandof of agiantblack-manedlionnappingunder ofAfrican safaris lore. Once inside,thesight imagesinvigorating trip,evoking of thegrand endless jostledowndustycrimsonroads,isan phenomenal. Even thedrive in,aseemingly there. Thesceneryinthismagicalplaceis is more ittakes toget thanworththeeffort ( the otherworldly If youhave themeans(avehicle), avisitto KGALAGADI TRANSFRONTIERPARK travel fromUpingtontoSpringbok. Upington, viaSpringbok.ItcostsUS$11to fromPortNollothto service taxi a weekday There’s usuallyatleastonebusperday. (US$23,10hours).hours) andWindhoek minutes after thegates Petrol close. and diesel are these chased; open from 7amuntil 30 groceries, soft drinksandalcohol canbepur- plain totake advantage of thefresh pastures. many of theanimalsscatter outacrossthe rain, andifitdoes October isthewetseason bores to alongthedryriver beds.September andtheanimalshavenight) drawntothe been when thedaysare coolest(belowfreezing at number of designated picnicspots. must remain intheircars, exceptatasmall ofthe emptyexpanses theKalahari. Visitors linking therivers forunobstructed viewsof roads. Make sure totake oneof theroads Visitors are restricted tofourgravel/sand &Information Orientation close. erant of cars, allowingyoutoget extremely tors. Mostof theanimalsare remarkably tol- in turnsupportalarge populationof preda- rodents, smallmammalsandantelopes. These % VIP Taxis Although thecountrysideisdescribedas Although Proclaimed anationalparkinApril1999, All therest camps have shops where basic The besttimetovisitisinJuneand July 054-561 0021;www.sanparks.org; adult/childUS$16/8)

( % Book accommodationBook online at lonelyplanet.com in Port Nolloth027-1118780) in Port Kgalagadi TransfrontierPark lonelyplanet.com operates

Book accommodationBook online at lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com ( ofWildlife&National Parks Botswana Department 4WD trail.Make arrangements withthe side of thepark, thisisonlypossibleviaa after dark. camp it’s2½hours. Nodriving is permitted rest campis3½hours; toMata Mata rest Rivierenentrance gate atTwee toNossob and 7pm. 6pm 5.30am and7.30amshutbetween sun.Gates rising andsetting openbetween information centre. phones, apub,swimmingpoolandgood are available ateach camp.There are public Gate Closed To Gochas (144km) % (95km) To Aranos (No border 4 1 3 2 TRANSFRONTIER PARK KGALAGADI crossing) ὈὈὈ ὈὈὈ ὈὈὈ ὈὈὈ ὄὈὈὈ The minimumtravelling time fromthe The gate openinghours generally followthe If youwanttoventure intotheBotswana

09-267 580774) N A M I B I A 14th BoreHole Pulai EATING SLEEPING Lion's DenRestaurant...... (see8) Urikaruus Camp...... Twee RivierenRestCamp...... Nossob RestCamp...... Mata RestCamp...... Kieliekrankie Camp...... Kalahari TentCamp...... Grootkolk Camp...... Gharagab Camp...... Bitterpan Camp...... 13th BoreHole

Transfrontier Auob N ORTHECAP (No bordercrossing) Gate Closed Kgalagadi (S OUTHAFRIC) Union's End 3 6 Sewe Panne 4 Park A 2 Grootkolk Urikaruus Craig Lockhart Dalkeith Langklass Lijersdraai Gemsbok Plain inGaborone. NORTHERN CAPE••KgalagadiTransfrontierPark NORTHERN

Lekkerwater

Auchterlonie Rivieren Gate Nossob Samevloeiing

5 Xchoi Pan

Kwang Twee River Houmoed 1 ὄ ὄ Bitterpan

Kamqua Vaalpan River Polentswe Pan Kameelsleep Dimpho Pan Montrose 8 7 Rooiputs 40km 20miles 0 0 Eland Kwang Pan Krankie Kielie 9 Kop Tier Andriesvale (53km);Molopo (270km); Kuruman(385km) Marie seDraai Lodge (60km);Upington Nature Reserve(35km); (25km); KalahariTrails B OTSWAN Dikbaardskolk (959m) Vloorskop Kij To Rooiduin B Kransbrak 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 B3 B3 B2 A2 A3 A3 A1 A1 A2

people US$15, extra personUS$5) people US$15,extra the mostluxurious. cessible of thewildernesscampsand isalso camps alsohave arange of huts,bungalows ity andwithshared ablutions facilities.The Rivieren. is notavailable Upington andTwee between who wrecked theircars onthistrip.Petrol 60km ondirtroads. Rivierenton toTwee gate is250kmwithabout Rivieren.man toTwee Thedrive from Uping- It’s asolid,385km,six-hourdrive fromKuru- &Away There Getting ( gate, includingthe Rivierenoptions neartheroadtoTwee US$110, honeymoontentsUS$110; Tent Camp and drinkingwater before visiting. at alltimes.Make sure tostockuponpetrol arangerwander inatwill,although isonduty None isfenced, which meansanimalscan portunity toreally get off thebeaten path. air-con. only rest campwithaswimmingpooland that offers themostfacilities.Itisalso camp tothepark’sentrance,andone adult/childUS$15/7; US$70, extra chens andbathrooms. cooking andeatingutensils, andwithkit- and cottages equippedwithbedding,towels, Rivieren.rant) isatTwee park’s onlyrestaurant (Lion’sDenRestau- .sanparks.org; 643Leyds Pretoria) St,Muckleneuk, booked through and sixluxurywildernesscamps.Allcanbe Inside theparkthere are three rest camps Sleeping &Eating the springbok. and suricates. Themostnumerousspeciesis wild dogs,hyenas,jackals,bat-eared foxes maned Kalahari lions,cheetahs, leopards, are also19predator species,includingdark- andthesociable weaver.kori bustard There bird,the in thepark,includingsecretary About 215speciesof bird have spotted been Wildlife sites US$8,s/dfromUS$23/340). % Outside theparkthere are afew interesting Camp Rest Twee Rivieren We’ve had several lettersWe’ve had several from travellers The sixwildernesscampsgive youtheop- All of therest campshave 054-122 ask for 91634; www.kalahari-trails.co.za; camp 054-122 askfor91634;www.kalahari-trails.co.za;

(2-person desert tentsUS$93,3-person (2-person desert SAN Parks Kalahari Trails Nature Reserve TrailsNature Kalahari

(6-bed cottageper2people

( as withoutelectric- s % ) isthemostac- 012-428 9111;www camp sites ) is the closet is thecloset Kalahari Kalahari . The (per 2

463

SOUTH AFRICA AFRICA SOUTH SOUTH AFRICA US$57) on theN14. optioninKeimos.best sleeping DieWerfis US$5) pizzas US$4). zebra-themed restaurant (mainsfromUS$7, National Park on theroadfrom Kakamas. and isabout 10kmbefore AugrabiesFalls US$4, s/dUS$10/20) ( include take yourchance andjustshow up.Options parks.org; 643Leyds Pretoria) St,Muckleneuk, the through biking. walking and mountain canoeing, ange) River andthe (Or-along thesouthernbankof theSenqu day, 40km some magicallandscape. Thepopularthree- It involves clamberingover rocksthrough worth doing,particularlyifyourtimeisshort. harsh climate. (Orange) Riverwhich flows,hasa theSenqu aroundan18kmravine rocky mosaic through ina forit.Thepark,set suffer the placedoesn’t lar. Youwon’tfindanybiganimalshere, but thunderous roarisnothingshortof spectacu- its run-off, named isfatwithrainyseason www.sanparks.org; adult/childUS$8/4; waterfall forwhich this meaning placeof great Andwhenthe noise. peoplecalledit‘Aukoerbis’, The Khoesaan % FallsAugrabies NationalPark s/d US$37/52; ( Werf cottages, self-contained graze between just westof Kakamas. toAugrabiesFallsturn-off NationalPark is quiet littletownsof Keimos andKakamas. The of oases through vineyardsandthequaint (Orange) of Rivercourse andpasses theSenqu The N14southwestof Upington followsthe UPINGTON TOSPRINGBOK down. have towaitawhileforhelpifyoubreak 464 % % In Kakamas, the With biggrassylawnswhere springbok tocarrywater,It’s important asyoumay The friendly Accommodation intheparkcanbe booked The three-hour, 9km 054 054-451 0177; www.kalahari.co.za; campsitesperperson 054-451 0177;www.kalahari.co.za; 054-431 0838; www.kalaharigateway.co.za; Main Rd; Main 054-431 0838;www.kalaharigateway.co.za; andavarietyof

( . % NORTHERN CAPE •• Upington to Springbok CAPE••UpingtontoSpringbok NORTHERN camp sites 054-461 1634;s/dUS$29/48; Klipspringer Hiking Trail Hiking Klipspringer as SANParks hasachilled-out atmosphere ) hasmassive roomsanda Augrabies FallsAugrabies Backpackers

(per 2 people US$15, extra person (per 2peopleUS$15,extra Gariep 3-in-1Route Gariep self-contained chalets Kalahari Gateway Hotel Gateway Kalahari ( % park Dassie Trail 012-428 9111;www.san

( h % as (US$17)runs , oryoucan dawn-dusk) 054-452 9200; iswell includes isthe ) (from

Die is

with fountains, trees,with fountains, flowers andbenches. lovely. Thepoolandgardenarea isquaint 10 roomsisdecorated differently, butallare graphs andartworkadorningthewallsof the ofvibe, inpartbecause thebeautifulphoto- s/d withbreakfast US$36/54; d/tr US$54/67) with modernart. street, theroomshere are plushanddoneup garden upagainsttherocksonaquiet side ers, attractionsanddrives inthearea. SLEEPING Sat &Sun) St; 2985; Voortrekker region. The for thecopperanddiamondminesin centre transformedintoabusyservice been still. anditwillbethoroughly side atnight desolate landscapeisendearingandstep out- ness isalluring.Theairalwaysfeels fresh, the thetown’sremote- ordo,although little tosee there’s Outsideof flowerseason flower season. harsh rockyhillsthat explodewithcolourin Springbok lounges inavalleysurroundedby % Springbok drive anothercar. forages withoutseeing country,where skyandstark immense youcan with Bushmanlandintheeast.Thisisalandof beforerhynsdorp intheWestern Cape merging coast’s bleakbeaches, thensouthtowardsVan- the Namibianborderinnorthtowest The region ishuge –awildvoidstretching from that isNamaqualandandtheHantam Karoo. ofthe unspoiltexpanses ever-shifting scenery corner theroadsstretch onforever, traversing rugged northwestern In theNorthernCape’s NAMAQUALAND St; mainsUS$2.80-7; Restaurant Springbok EATING a swimmingpool. north of thecentre around withneatunitsset St;s/dfromUS$25/50; .com; 4King in dormbedsthebarn. spacious oldhome. Backpackers canshackup St; dmUS$11,rfromUS$40; NapAccommodation Cat Blue DiamondLodge Annie’s Cottage From anedgyfrontiertown,Springbokhas Old Mill Lodge Old Mill 027 /pop10,400 hasloadsof informationabout flow- Pleasantly situated Pleasantly inapeaceful Book accommodationBook online at lonelyplanet.com Tourism informationoffice Tourism

( ( h

% % h 7.30am-4.15pm Mon-Fri, 9am-noon 7.30am-4.15pm Mon-Fri, (

027-718 1705;69Van St; Riebeeck 027-712 1451;annie@springbokinfo breakfast, lunch&dinner; %

( a ( s % % 027-712 1321; 37 Voortrekker 027-712 1321; 37Voortrekker ) Cat Naphasagood Cat ) 027-718 2624;19UnionSt; 027-718 1905; Anattractive place s lonelyplanet.com Each of the ) (

%

Voortrekker Voortrekker 027-718 a )

actly howyoulike it. and very reasonably priced,steak cooked ex- tasty, jointwithacellarvibeserves basement dinner) Sts;mainsUS$3.40-7; & Voortrekker mains US$4.70-7; Book accommodationBook online at lonelyplanet.com ing atmosphere withloadsof options, tasty daily door-to-door to Cape minibustaxi pizza andburgers are good. ing thewallsdestroyyourappetite; thesteaks, Don’t letthemounted animalheadsclutter- lonelyplanet.com to Upington(US$11,fourhours, Mondayto times weekly). and PortNolloth(US$5.50,2½hours, five Town(US$20,five hours,run toCape daily) (US$6, onehour).Ordinaryminibustaxis Town (US$20,five hours) andKamieskroon camping equipment. US$100 perday,orUS$120dayincluding ( For 4WDhire, stopby for NamibiaandRichtersveld NationalPark. spot. at6.45pmfromthesame four timesweekly) Namibia (US$44,12hours, for Windhoek, Springbok Lodge nearthe thatleavetwice weekly) fromopposite the Town(US$28,7½hours, toCape buses Intercape THERE&AWAYGETTING breakfast choices. pizzasand steak,including sandwiches, pasta, % VIP Taxis Van Wyk’sBusdiens Springbok isapopularjumping-off point BJ’s Titbits Restaurant a localguide. ness camps(chalets andcabinsUS$56)where youmustbringyourownwater. Park formations, deepravinesandgorges –theenormous(185,000hectares) wildernessofjaggedrockypeaks,grotesque –aspectacular rock Within amountainousdesert WORTH THETRIP people whocontinuetoleadasemitraditional, seminomadicpastoralexistence. (though demanding). possibilitiesinthissurreal,wonderland. The almostlunar-like hiking landscape,are excellent duringthespringflowerseason, whentheparkturnsintoatechnicolourespecially spectacular as 027-718 1905; Voortrekker St) 027-718 1905;Voortrekker Most of the park is virtually inaccessiblewithoutaproperly equipped 4WDvehicle andmaybe Most oftheparkis virtually There isabrand-newrest campat ofthelocal Nama loopoftheSenqu(Orange)River, theparkisproperty In thenorthern This place does have titillat- Thisplacedoes acertain

(

% ( %

) ( , whichissurprisingly luxuriousforsucharemote area. There are alsotworemote wilder- %

( 027-718 2270;cnrVan derStel&HospitalSts; % 027-831 1506;www.sanparks.org; adult/childUS$11/5.50; 0861-287 287;www.intercape.co.za) h 027-111 8780) NORTHERN CAPE••Namaqualand NORTHERN lunch &dinner;

( %

( % 027-718 1455;cnrNamaqua Cat NapAccommodation Cat runsfromSpringbok ; itrents vehicles for 021-559 1601) kopje h a breakfast, lunch& ) Thisclassy . Buses leave. Buses runsa Sendelingsdrift has

with aswimintheriver. electricity forcampers, andyoucancooloff withhotshowers,pleasant cleantoiletsand (Orange)banks of River. theSenqu It’svery desolate place. boulder-strewn hillssurroundthisremote and and heart of mountains wildcountry.Craggy forgotten-looking Kamieskroon sitsinthe andscrubbrush, Out amidthetumbleweed % &Around Kamieskroon s/d US$27/40) The borderisopenfrom7amto7pm. desolateisspectacular.through mountains, itsway (Orange) Riverthe Senqu carving short drive fromSteinkopf, withitsviewsof on theN7,677kmnorthof Town.The Cape This townisattheborderpostwithNamibia Vioolsdrif biking permitfee of US$0.90perperson. and 20km);bringyourownbikes. There’s a are twoincredible circular walks(4km,5.5kmand7km).There more butyou’llsee ononeof the the reserve, WildflowerGarden Malan and Namaqualandsucculentsatthe flowers andanursery of 200 amazingKaroo famous foritsextraordinarydisplayof spring ( Don’t miss thissemidesert Reserve Goegap Nature (across thestreet fromtheSpringbokHotel). Friday), departingfromtheMasonic Hotel % Peace ofParadise There are acoupleof drivingroutes around 027

027-712 1880;admissionUS$1.40; (2-person campsitesUS$15,chaletsfromUS$56; h is22kmwestof Vioolsdrifonthe 7am-6pm) (

% mountain-biking routes mountain-biking isaspecialplace. It’s Richtersveld National 027-761 8968;campsitesUS$20, . h nature reserve reserve nature 7.45am-4.15pm) Hester Hester (14km 465

, SOUTH AFRICA AFRICA SOUTH SOUTH AFRICA on theN7. mation office. wheat fieldsburst intoflowerinspring.Note Thabo Mbeki, NelsonMandela, Steve Biko, including activistssuch asPresidentheroes area wouldbecomeawellspring of resistance the guerrilla conflict with theBritish.Later Kei River, andjustabouteverywhere ina timesalongtheGreat eight with theXhosa toralists descendedfromtheDutch) clashed In the19thcentury,Trekboers (nomadicpas- History Highlands. Eastern rangesthe dramaticmountain of theNorth- lar, subtropicalWildCoast,andtothenorth liesthespectacu- border inKwaZulu-Natal London, asfarPortEdwardjustover the East Beyond towns such asGraaff-Reinet. Karoo,the semi-arid dotted withintriguing soongivesself waytothedesolate majesty of country’,which it- and surrounding‘settler offormer British stronghold Grahamstown inland tothenorthare therollinghillsof the Shipwreck London.Yet CoaststoEast just PortElizabethandtheSunshine through and Jeffrey’s (famousfortheir surf), Bay StFrancis landscape flattens outpastCape NationalPark,sikamma Coastal before the you’ll bestruckbythebeautyof theTsit- Town,where fromCape the N2highway entry intotheprovince islikely tobealong climates, topographies andvegetation. Your hasaremarkableern Cape range of differing and subtropical,foritsrelative sizethe East- forested, At oncesemidesert, mountainous CAPE EASTERN hour, daily). toSpringbok(US$6,one runs abusservice .com; campsitesperpersonUS$6,s/dUS$20/34; Park & Caravan andpopular the comfortable oreatingfacilities. and thatithasnosleeping that theparkisonlyopenduringflowerseason h ( is thenewlyestablished h 466 % Kamieskroon is80kmsouthof Springbok Just offtheN7(followsigns),you’llfind About 18kmsouthwestof Kamieskroon The 8am-5pm Jul-Oct) 9am-5pm Mon-Fri) 027-672 1948;www.sanparks.org; admissionUS$8; EASTERN CAPE •• Nature’s Valley to Port Elizabeth CAPE••Nature’s ValleyEASTERN toPort town clerk Van Wyk’sBusdiens (

% where theshrublandandold 027-672 1614;www.kamieskroonhotel

serves asthetouristinfor- serves ( % 027-672 1627; Voortrekker St; 027-672 1627;Voortrekker Namaqua NationalPark

Kamieskroon Hotel Hotel Kamieskroon ( % 021-559 1601) s . )

on request. of Plettenberg coastbetween andHu- Bay This NationalParkArea Tsitsikamma www.bazbus.com) Valley, the although US$35) .sanparks.org; Camp area. are plentyof shorter hikes possiblein the if youdon’twanttowalkforthatlong,there the Tsitsikamma Trailbegins(see p468 ) but Park. Thisiswhere theOtter Trailendsand beach inthewestof Tsitsikamma National yellowwood forest nexttoamagnificent Nature’s Valley isasmallvillage nestledin % ELIZABETH NATURE’S VALLEY TOPORT nomically unviablepopulations. that were asadumpinggroundforeco- used and Ciskei, nominallyindependentrepublics heid ‘homelands’of Transkei (theWildCoast) Oliver Tambo. Robert Mangaliso Sobukwe,ChrisHani and Camp (see (see Camp above ). and get information atNature’s Valley Rest hours. Youcanalso payparkentrancefees the gate tothemaincamp, which is open24 park gate is6kmfromtheN2. It’s2kmfrom from Humansdorpand8kmthe N2.The ( p468 ), 68kmfromPlettenberg 99km Bay, park isStormsRiver Mouth RestCamp The maininformationcentre forthenational ORIENTATION &INFORMATION recommended. hours) onthefirst partof the Otter Trailis of thecoastline. Thewaterfall circuit(four antelopes. Birdlife isplentiful. there are alsobaboons,monkeys andsmall the Otter Trailisnamed,inhabitthispark; to walkthrough. into theancientforests, area it’saspectacular and cutbyrivers ravines deep thathave carved Located atthefootof theTsitsikamma Range mansdorp, includingthearea 5kmouttosea. Several shortdaywalksgive youataste Several There’s nopublictransporttoNature’s cultureXhosa dominates theformerapart- A lovely is placetostay Elusive Cape clawless otters,Elusive Cape after which 044

ontheedge of ariver eastof town. ( park % 042-281 1607, bookings 042-281 1607,bookings

1-2 personcampsitesUS$1.40,forest hutsd (adult/child US$11/6) will drop off orpickupherewill dropoff Baz Bus % Nature’s Valley Rest Valley Rest Nature’s protects 82km lonelyplanet.com

( % 012-428 9111;www 021-439 2323; lonelyplanet.com 0 100 km EASTERN CAPE 0 60 miles To Bloemfontein Lovu To Kimberley To Bloemfontein (70km); K W A Z U L U - Johannesburg (505km); F R E E (73km) (121km) L E S O T H O N A T A L River Petrusville Pretoria (563km) S T A T E Mohale's R617 Umlazi N O River 10 Smithfield ra Hoek N O R T H E R N C A P E R n Ixopo N n Philippolis Springfontein o A2 g 26 ed 2 N e al Umzimkulu 12 C r

e Cedarville EASTERN CAPE R717R Bethulie Riv River ive R701 ge Kelso Vosburg R Philipstown r n Ka R 48 ra Lundean's rina ὄὄ O Kokstad Umtamvuna56 De Aar Nek River N Britstown Kraai Mount River Venterstad Lady Grey Tiffindell Tina River 2 Colesberg Aliwal Fletcher Mount Port Seekoei River Shepstone N R North Rhodes Ayliff 9 58 Bizana Margate R390 Groen River Mount Frere R O Burgersdorp Barkly East Marina Beach N 61 n N N RN Mooi 12 ge Hanover 10 Maclear Port rs 1 Jamestown 586 Flagstaff Noupoort Mkambati Edward R River Um River Steynsburg 56 NR Dordrecht Elliot zimvubu Rv R Molteno Victoria West 56 Lusikisiki ὄὄRichmond (Nomonde) Mthatha Dam Ὀ Middelburg Cala R W Indwe 61 Mthatha Sneeuberg h i Ncora Hofmeyr t Mthatha River e N Port St Johns Lady Dam Mbashe Range Tarka Black 2 Kei Frere Kei Silaka NR Nieu R Murraysburg Bethesda 67 R Queenstown Hluleka NR R River 61 To Cape 61 River Tsolo t Town W E S T E R N Tarkastad River Coffee Bay V River N s (423km) C A P E a K Dutywa6 l Karoo a t a K Cradock b Great le e a y NR Tsolwana Cwebe NR o r r i o Graaff-Reinet Mountain GR g Cathcart C e Ὀf ὈὈ g Kei V Zebra NP Dwesa NR a D Seymour Butterworth e o N g R s River d 9 o e l

River Aberdeen l 61 la Katberg i t Hogsback Stutterheim R io Pearston Bosberg Mpofu GR W i v n Maden Kei Mouth

e NR N r Ri Fort Salt Dam 10 Morgan's Bay

v Cookhouse Hare er I N D I A N Somerset Bhisho Haga-Haga East Fort Beaufort Alice Jansenville Sun A mN Cintsa day 2 a t King O C E A N s River h o William's Gonubie Double Drift l e Klipplaat Darlington GR Great Fish Town East London Dam River Reserve Groot River ὈShamwariὈR N Perdepoort Grahamstown 72 9 Addo GR Elephant Peddie Hamburg t Willowmore KirkwoodR Watersmeeting s Steytlerville 75 NP N Paterson NR Great Fish River a 2 o To Oudtshoorn Salem Bathurst (77km); C TsitsikammaR Range Addo Alexandria Cape Town Uniondale 62 Port Alfred k (440km) Bushman's Kenton-on-Sea c Uitenhage e Algoa Bay River r Mouth LEGEND Tsitsikamma Humansdorp w NP Port Elizabeth i p FR Forest Reserve Knysna h GR Game Reserve ὈὈ ὈCape Recife S Nature's t NP National Park Wilderness Valley Storms Jeffrey's Bay a s River o NR Nature Reserve NP Plettenberg St Francis Bay e C 467 Bay Oyster Bay S u n s h i n WA Wilderness Area Cape St Francis ὈὈ AFRICA SOUTH SOUTH AFRICA 5111) Jeffrey’s andnearabeautifulwaterfall. Bay, Nature’sabout halfwaybetween Valley and US$363) ding andbathrooms. forest hutsare equippedwithkitchens, bed- lets, cottages and‘oceanettes’; all exceptthe commodation onthisthree-night, four-day carry heavy inhuts.Ac- equipmentorsleep US$135) .misty-sa.co.za; chalets perpersonUS$54, 4-personcottage breakfast fromUS$24/49) Witelsbos;s/dwith 3770; www.tsitsikammaadventure.co.za; US$19/31/99) www.sanparks.org; campsites/forest huts/familycottages Camp MouthRest Storms River SLEEPING the trail’swebsite. NationalPark Tsitsikamma overnightbetween stops.Tobook,contact able hotels, and luggage iscarriedonvehicles the banksof theSanddrifRiver, isincomfort- hike, which runsfromStormsRiver Mouth to for information. Nature’sor contact Valley ( RestCamp p466 ) the through the hiking topayaccommodationcostsfor You onlyneed considered tobeeasierthantheOtter Trail. takes it’s five although daysandfournights, theforests.you inlandthrough Thishike also running paralleltotheOtter Trailbuttaking Nature’s Valley andendsatStormsRiver, isnotallowed. Camping with mattresses butwithoutrunningwater. not permitted. so it’salwaysworthtrying.Singlehikers are ahead. There are often cancellations,however, of fitnessisrequired forthewalk. some superbstretches of coast.Agoodlevel ing anumberof rivers andgives accessto lasts five involves daysandfournights, ford- Mouth toNature’s Valley. Thewalk,which thecoastlinefromStormsRiverhugging the mostacclaimedhikes inSouthAfrica, The 42km OTTER, TSITSIKAMMA &DOLPHINTRAILS 468 Book boththetrailandaccommodation Accommodation isinsix-bed rest huts Misty Mountain Reserve MountainReserve Misty Falls Park Tsitsikamma Adventure The The 64km Book thetrailthrough . Thetrailisusuallybooked uponeyear EASTERN CAPE EASTERN . Agreat ifhiking theDol- placeto stay isidealforhikers whodon’twant to Dolphin Trail Thiscampoffers forest huts,cha- huts Otter Trail Otter Forestry Department Forestry Tsitsikamma Trail Tsitsikamma

(per personpernightUS$9.50) (www.dolphintrail.co.za; perperson (www.dolphintrail.co.za; A family-run guesthouse Afamily-runguesthouse

•• Natur (per personUS$70) ( % ( % SAN Parks 042-281 1607)

042-280 3699;www e’s Valley to Port Elizabeth e’s Valley toPort ( commencesat ( % %

012-428 9111; 042-281 1712) ( (

% isoneof % . orvisit 042-280 012-426 , 2323) to thevillage. River, butthere’s nootherpublictransport per jumpUS$78) River Bridge Bridge River bungee jump(216m)isatthe highest (US$47).The world’s Konga BushEco-Camp experience (allequipmentprovided) atthe canopy slide(US$53)andanovernight bush sriver.com; DarnellSt,StormsRiver) Adventures Storms River information. 4kmeastontheN2,providesrol station, 280 3561;www.tsitsikamma.net) Stormsriviermond inAfrikaans). which issignedasStormsRiver Mouth(or 4km eastof theturn-off to the nationalpark, is lies outsidethenationalpark.Theturn-off River signpostpointstothisvillage which an outdoorcentre. FromtheN2Storms tree-shaded lanes,afew and placestostay Storms River isanoddlittlehamletwith % Storms River Storms River Mouth.The along theN2,fromwhere it’san8kmwalkto Greyhound, run Intercape andTransluxbuses THERE&AWAYGETTING cottages orchalets withwonderfulviews. hasluxurywooden phin Trail,MistyMountain novices canlearnyear-round. the bestmonths forexperiencedsurfers, but fect wave are intheworld’.JunetoSeptember Supertubes, oncedescribedas‘the most per- flock here toridewaves such as thefamous destinations. Boardiesfromallover theplanet takes itsplaceasoneof theworld’stopsurfing town frequented byyoungfamilies,‘J-Bay’ seaside A farcryfromitsoriginsasasleepy % Bay Jeffrey’s mosa St; Rest US$9.50/27; & SaffronSts;campsitesUS$7,dm/dwithshared bathroom Axe The If you’re after apost-bungee rest try InformationOffice Tourism Tsitsikamma Most activitiesonoffer are organised by ( 042 042 /pop25,000

% stopsatNature’s Valley onrequest. ( %

Baz Bus s/d withbreakfast US$28/53) 042-281 1757; [email protected]; cnrDarnell 042-281 1757;[email protected]; 042-281 1726;www.ploughmansrest.co.za; 31For- i

Book accommodationBook online at lonelyplanet.com ( , 21kmwestof StormsRiver. % ) . Anotheroptionis

( % 042-281 1458;www.faceadrenalin.com; 021-439 2323)

( % (Continued on page 477) atthePetroPort pet- . These includeatree . These 042-281 1836;www.storm Baz Bus , afriendlyB&B. lonelyplanet.com stops atStorms Ploughman’s

( % Bloukrans ( %

021-439 Tube ‘n 042- couple of kilometres southof thecitycentre. popular backpackers intown,IslandVibeisa US$5.50; Book accommodationBook online at lonelyplanet.com almost overtaking surfingasthemainleisure with shopping inthemyriadclothingstores 2924; Da Gama Rd; 2924; DaGama lonelyplanet.com lunch Sun&Mon) Sunflower Café EATING provides luxuriousaccommodation. intheprime surfingspotand this isright as US$47/67, s/dluxuryroomswithbreakfast US$70/108; 10/[email protected]; St;s/dwith breakfast braai area andabar. and great views.There’s sea apooldeck, Gama Rd,ismemorableforitsfunkydécor uponahillabove bestguesthouses, J-Bay’s Da St;dwithbreakfast US$40; 25Mimosa .co.za; with apersonal touch. Coveflats, Cristal isachilled-out backpackers doubles orneatroomswithinself-catering a choice of eithernewen-suite, sea-facing 49 FlameCres; dmUS$8,dfromUS$20; kitchen. has doublerooms(US$34)onlyandaseparate The newbeautifullydecorated beach house plus of course plentyof drinkingandpartying. Activities onoffer includesurflessons(US$24), Dageraad St;campsites/dm/dUS$5.50/9.50/24) area andjustifiablyloved byreaders. ontheoutskirtsofhouse town,nearthesurf oldrustic, friendlyplaceinacomfortable St;campsites/dm/dUS$4.70/7/27) 8a Oribi Peggy’s Place SLEEPING BayTourism Jeffrey’s Café Internet Atlantic INFORMATION Pro championship. JulyfortheBillabong comes totownevery retained. Thebiggesthas been surfcrowd activity, butsofarthelocalboard-waxingvibe (Continued from page 468) page from (Continued Rd; For Internetaccess. Development isragingatafuriouspace, Development Supertubes Guesthouse Supertubes Bay Lazee Island Vibe Cristal Cove Cristal h 8am-7pm Mon-Fri, to5pmSat,10am-3pmSun) 8am-7pm Mon-Fri, ) h A stalwart of Astalwart accommodation, J-Bay breakfast, lunch&dinner Tue-Sat, breakfast &

This bright, cheerful andfriendly Thisbright,

(

( % (

% ( % ( % % h EASTERN CAPE •• Port Elizabeth CAPE••Port EASTERN 042-296 2090;lazeebay@worldonline 042-293 2160; [email protected]; 042-293 2160;[email protected]; 042-293 2101; www.cristalcove.co.za; 042-293 2101;www.cristalcove.co.za; 042-293 1682; 20 Da Gama Rd; mains 042-293 1682;20DaGama 042-293 1625;[email protected]; 10 9am-5pm Mon-Fri, tonoonSat) 9am-5pm Mon-Fri, ( ( % % 042-293 2923,fax293 042-293 2399; Da Gama 042-293 2399;DaGama

( % 042-293 2957;super Awonderfully i s Themost ) Offering Offering Oneof ) Bay to Cape TowncostsUS$51andtakes 12 toCape Bay tels inbothdirections. Afare fromJeffrey’s nique; mainsUS$7-11; between PortElizabethandJeffrey’sbetween Bay access. h Dr,Summerstrand;perhrUS$5.50; Boardwalk, Marine Boardwalk Internet Café Boardwalk Internet & Sun) Summerstrand; Amex Information beaches. bestbathingsome of Cape’s theEastern plies before moving offer onward,itdoes place tostopforarest andstockuponsup- beth nomore thanacharmless, convenient (1970s). boycott-era stagnation ments atoncetoitsgrowthperiod(1880s)and of stylesandhave charm: adishevelled monu- surround both.Itsbuildingsare ahodgepodge area andthehuge, sprawlingtownships that corporating thecitycentre, anearbyindustrial the core of ‘NelsonMandela anarea Bay’, in- ‘Sunshine Coast’andbylocalgovernment as the ‘friendlycity’,bymarketeers aspartof the known bySouthAfricansas‘PE’,locals to have somethingof an identitycrisis.It’s town anditsmajor transporthub,seems biggest Cape’s Port Elizabeth,theEastern % ELIZABETH PORT (US$1.40, onehour). Express US$9.50 andtakes twohours. The hours; PortElizabethtoJeffrey’s costs Bay The &Away There Getting Martinique beach. just metres attheMarina fromthelappingsea andcrocodileostrich steaks,seafood, is Sun) seafood plattersUS$16; bar nextdoor. Meals feature andthere’s decentseafood, a onthefloorhastobeshovelledthe sand in! across thecarparkfromseashore, so options. café prepares somehealthyandvegetarian While manytravellers considerPortEliza- Die Walskipper Tapas LapaSeaside 9.30am-8.30pm Mon-Sat,10am-6pm Sun)ForInternet 041 /pop1.5m Thisalfresco restaurant specialisingin Baz Bus ( %

( % 041-583 2025; the Boardwalk, Marine Dr, 041-583 2025;theBoardwalk,Marine

( 021-293 2221) h % 8am-10pm Mon-Fri, 10am-2pm Sat 8am-10pm Mon-Fri, 021-439 2323)

( % h h

( 042-293 9478; Marina Martinique; Martinique; 042-293 9478;Marina % dinner) lunch &dinnerTue-Sat, lunch ( % runsdoor-to-door 042-292 0119; Marina Marti- 042-292 0119;Marina Tapas isjust Lapa 041-583 4725;the stops dailyathos- Sunshine

477 SOUTH AFRICA AFRICA SOUTH SOUTH AFRICA 478 0 500 m PORT ELIZABETH 0 0.3 miles

To Addo Elephant Elizabeth CAPE••Port EASTERN A National Park (65km); B C D E F Shamwari Game Algoa Bay Reserve (90km) Govan Mbeki St

Strand St Albany Rd Port North End 14 Charl Malan Elizabeth 1 Edward 6 St Quay Victoria St M Chapel St 19 Irvine St 9 Glen St Mackay St 4 Govan Mbeki St Donkin DonkinReserve St 21 Campbell St Market Dollery St Port Elizabeth Sq Russell Rd Cape Rd R102 Opera House Ὀ ὈὈ Union St 20 Whitlock St Donkin St 1 Belmont Tce North To Translux (2.4km); Parliament St Baak 10 Greyhound (2.4km); Rink St Clyde St ens 12 Baak Greenacres Shopping Havelock St pect Hill Pros ens Centre (2.4km); Rose St St Pearson St Hill Hill Park St Dr Castle Rd Castle Western Rd Annerley Tce Belmont TceMilitary See Enlargement 0 200 m Rd St Georges Bird St Military 0 0.1 miles Park 2 Cuyler St St George's Brickmakers Cuyler St Gordon Tce Park Cricket Baakens Rv ὈὈGround KloofὈὈὈ ὈὈ Valley Rd Park Dr Settlers' Park

Gardner 4 Circle

Valley Rd Humewood Rd Oakworth Rd

Balfour St Walmer Blvd First Ave St I N D I A N O C E A N Second Ave

Ave ὈὈὈὈMitchell ὈὈὈὈ 3 Villiers Rd Webber St ὆὆὆὆ Chapman Walmer Rd Beach Rd Victoria Park Dr ὆὆὆὆ Kings To Rennies Foreign Exchange (3km); South End Beach Airport (5km); Economic Car Hire; Victoria Park Cemetery Ocean Divers International (3km) Old Boys' Sports Ground ὆὆὆὆ Windermere Rd ὆὆὆὆ 12 Mars 5 INFORMATION SLEEPING hall Rd Amex...... (see 11) Bay Hotel...... 6 A1 1 13

Brookes ὈὈ ὈὈὈὈHill Dr 10 Boardwalk Internet Café...... (see 11) Chapman Hotel...... 7 E4 M 3 lonelyplanet.com Lungile Backpackers...... 8 D4 2 4 La Roche Dr Dr Hobie SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Wet Hippo...... 9 A1 DRINKING 8 Beach 7 11 4 Bay Tourism & Tours...... 1 E4 Giovani's...... (see 5) Cathcart Rd Bayworld...... 2 E4 EATING Tapas Al Sol...... 13 E4 Marine Dr Polani...... (see 11) Blue Waters Cafe...... 10 E4 Toby Joe's...... (see 13) Happy Valley Pro Dive...... 3 E4 Boardwalk...... 11 E4 Humewood South End Museum...... 4 C2 Mauro's...... (see 12) TRANSPORT Summerstrand Surf Centre...... 5 E4 Up the Khyber...... 12 E3 Taxis toὈὈὈὈ Airport...... 14 B1 ὈὈ dive US$37) SharkRockPier,.prodive.co.za; BeachRd,Summerstrand;per .co.za; BeachRd; .co.za; wood; surfboards/body boardsperdayUS$13/4) wood; surfboards/body Book accommodationBook online at lonelyplanet.com Rennies Foreign Exchange Foreign Rennies BayTourism Nelson Mandela lonelyplanet.com Bay Tourism &Tours Bay Tourism Tours US$20 perday. school willteach them for youhowtouse hires surfboardsandbodyboards.Itssurf Rd,Walmer) Albert International either Contact a marinereserve. include somewrecks andtheStCroixIslands, both beaches are sheltered. harbour breakwater toHumewoodBeach; stretchessports venue. KingsBeach fromthe Port Elizabethmake thetownamajor water- beaches tothesouthofThe widesandy central Activities anoceanariumandasnakeMuseum, park. & 1.45-4.30pm) BeachRd;adult/childUS$4.20/2; world.co.za; in thecountry, One of thebestandlargest complexes museum BAYWORLD Group Areas Act. 1965and1975undertheinfamoustween neighbourhood duringforcedremovals be- The apartheidbulldozers putanendtothe vibrant districtonceknownasSouthEnd. Sun) Rd; admissionfree; cnrWalmerBlvd&Humewood 3325; [email protected]; This smallbutfascinating SOUTH ENDMUSEUM Sights safest inthecountry. beachfront, isconsidered however, oneof the ifyou’retake ataxi goingout.Themain The citycentre canbedangerous – atnight Dangers &Annoyances noon Sat)About3kmfromthetowncentre. Walmer Park ShoppingCentre; information andmaps. 9.30am-3.30pmSat&Sun)Hasanexcellentsupplyof Fri, Reserve; Donkin www.nmbt.co.za;

The ὈὈὈὈὈὈ Good divingsites around Port Elizabeth records multiculturalPortElizabeth,a Surf Centre Surf . incorporates thePortElizabeth

h ( %

or h Bayworld EASTERN CAPE •• Port Elizabeth CAPE••Port EASTERN 9am-5pm)

041-581 5121; www.odipe.co.za; 10 041-581 5121;www.odipe.co.za; ( Pro Dive 9am-4pm Mon-Fri, 10am-3pmSat& 9am-4pm Mon-Fri, %

( % 083-656 8429; Marine Dr,Hume- 083-656 8429;Marine 041-584 0622; www.baytours ( h (

runslocal tours, in- % %

( ( % h 9am-5pm Mon-Fri, to 9am-5pm Mon-Fri, % museum 041-584 0650;www.bay 041-368 5890; 041-583 5316;www 8am-4.30pm Mon- 041-585 8884; h Ocean Divers Ocean Divers (

sells and sells % 9am-12.45pm 041-582 Protea Hotel, intheheart of thecity, isa pehotels.co.za; BelmontTce;s/d US$55/74) attached. tractive restaurant (mains US$5.50)andbar with plentyof character. Italsohasan at- with very reasonable rates for elegant rooms place thatfeels more like aB&Bthanhotel, man St;s/dwithbreakfast US$34/51) Bay Hotel MIDRANGE up ontheheadland. ofwalking distance placestoeatanddrink hostel is ina100-year-old buildingwithin bathroom US$10/24; dm/dwithshared Hill; 7Prospect [email protected]; beachfront. suburban street farfromthehustleof the big poolandapretty inaleafy garden,allset ers ispretty smart,withasunnykitchen, a US$8/22; dm/dwithshared bathroom Hill; 14 GlenSt,Richmond rooms (US$26). stone-flagged doubleswiththeirownbath- beachfront. There are alsosomehandsome in anairySwiss-stylehomeminutes fromthe beth’s mostpopularbackpackers iscontained shared bathroomUS$5.50/9/22/24; 12LaRocheDr,Humewood;campsites/dm/tw/d with .co.za; Backpackers Lungile BUDGET choices are linedupalongthebeachfront. Most of PortElizabeth’sfairlyunexcitinghotel Sleeping includedrinks. doesn’t US$16 pricetag good chance dolphinsenroute. of The seeing Recife, andthere’sBoats gotowardsCape a Dr,Summerstrand). theBoardwalk,Marine [email protected]; fish barbeque,contact ( .com) tact lunch ordinner.and includesalight Con- tour US$27 toUS$34perperson forahalf-day Thecostisfrom squatter campsandshebeens. tours, which give theopportunitytovisit (US$74) andcity/townships(US$34). cluding tripstoAddoElephantNationalPark % Edward Protea Hotel Edward Protea ElizabethBackpackers Port Wet Hippo includinga yacht cruise, For asunset There are cross-culturaltownship several 082-970 4037) , Calabash Tours Calabash Tanaqua Tours s

( % ) Port Elizabeth’snewestbackpack- ( 041-585 1558; [email protected]; 7Lut-041-585 1558;[email protected]; % . i 041-533 6260;www.wethippo.com;

( (

(

% % % ) Thisfriendly,laid-back 041-582 2042;lungile@netactive

041-585 6162;calabash@iafrica 041-452 7692) ( % Polani 041-586 2056;edward@ is ( Anupmarket

% ( % TheEdward or 041-586 0697; PortEliza- ) 041-583 2141; Molo Tours 479

SOUTH AFRICA AFRICA SOUTH SOUTH AFRICA booths tocosyupin. menu, loudmusicandAmericandiner-style buzzy, trendy bar-diner withalongcocktail the usualsteaks andburgers. restaurant hasrecently to taken abackseat door toMauro’s, Indianfoodatthisclassy Jo’burg (US$175 return), Durban(US$150), Centre, BeachRd;mains US$6-9; the bucket-and-spade kitsch of thebeachfront – SAA AIR &Away There Getting party islegendary. andtheSunday afternoon deck most nights Rd, Humewood) Sunday deckpartiesonthewoodenterrace. DJs atweekends, karaoke onThursday, and Therefilled tobursting night. every are live hot spotfortheyoungisthiscavernous pub, Rd, Humewood; Saturday are popularaswell. Fridayand in thepubsandclubs,although tobethebiggest night Wednesday seems &Entertainment Drinking trendya Californian-style bistro. Sun) Beach Rd;mainsUS$7-11; platters, andpasta. seafood salads Sun) merstrand; mainsUS$4-12; fast-food jointsof thebeachfront. a cappuccinoinpeaceawayfromtheplastic is abitartificial,buthere youcanatleastsip Rd.Theatmosphereat thefarendof Beach Boardwalk casinocomplexinSummerstrand, Most of PortElizabeth’sbestcafésare in the Eating views. private balconieswithsea waterfall horizonpool.Modernroomshave city centre, isanupmarket choice witha Chapman, overlooking southof the thesea breakfast US$62/74; Summerstrand;s/dwith Hill, 1LadyBeaCres,.co.za; Brookes roomsandcharmingfortable colonialdécor. gracious, old-styleEdwardianhotel withcom- 480 Tapas AlSol Chapman Hotel Mauro’s Mauro’s Giovani’s Giovani’s Toby Joe’s Up theKhyber Cafe Blue Waters A bright, lively Abright, café-restaurant withlotsof Mauro’s issomethingof ananomalyamong ( % EASTERN CAPE •• Port Elizabeth CAPE••Port EASTERN 041-507 1111) ( % ( No tapas here, Notapas butlive bandsplay %

( h % ( % 041-582 2700; MacArthur Leisure Centre, 041-582 2700;MacArthur 041-586 3189;Dolphin’sLeap Centre) Tue-Sun)

041-584 0082; Brookes Pavilion,041-584 0082;Brookes Beach ( ais

% 041-586 2159; Brookes Pavilion,041-586 2159;Brookes Beach (

( % has daily flights between between hasdaily flights % h 041-582 2200; MacArthur Leisure 041-582 2200;MacArthur h 041-584 0678;www.chapman Port Elizabeth’scurrent 041-583 4110; Marine Dr,Sum- 041-583 4110;Marine lunch &dinnerMon-Sat, lunch &dinnerMon-Sat, h ) Thefamily-run lunch &dinner) Next A 581 4242) Tuesday, Thursday, FridayandSundayfrom US$49/33, 18hours) viaBloemfontein. (US$16, sixhours). Londondaily PortElizabethandEast between ban daily(US$40,15hours). Intercape runs (US$32, 13hours). Greyhound runstoDur- (US$23, ninehours) andPortShepstone London(US$17,five hours),East Mthatha hours) viaGrahamstown(US$10,2½hours), around US$45. London the 15-hourtripaveragesVia East (US$110 oneway–hop-on,hop-off). Town runs dailyfromPortElizabethtoCape ages aroundUS$24.The bookings. cape of theGreenacres Shopping Centre. Translux around3kmfromHumewood.Centre, opposite Checkers atGreenacres Shopping Greyhound BUS US$120. to Jo’burg. Returnfares ataround start Kulula Town (US$120). Durban (US$120)andCape London(aroundUS$100), Elizabeth toEast Airlink .co.za) The TRAIN areas.and othercoastal Jeffrey’s runbetween taxis PortElizabeth Bay, J-Bay SunshineExpress MINIBUS TAXI Walmer) Hire Economic Car including situated inPortElizabethorattheairport, All thebigcar-rental operators have offices CAR hop-off ticket. Sunday; it’sUS$97foraone-wayhop-on, Monday, WednesdayThursday, Saturdayand Port ElizabethtoDurban,andreturns on Cape Town(US$160)andPort Elizabeth. Cape The 12-hour or so trip to Cape Townaver-The 12-hourorsotriptoCape The Translux runstoDurbandaily(US$38,15 Jo’burg. All three buscompaniesservice

Shosholoza Meyl Shosholoza runsovernight to Jo’burg (1st/2nd class ( %

( . ( % and % Baz Bus

041-586 0055) ( %

0861-585 852;www.kulula.com) ( Avis 0861-359 722) % Book accommodationBook online at lonelyplanet.com Imperial 041-392 1333)

041-363 4555) ( ( % %

( % 041-581 4291) 021-439 2323) (

% onlyacceptstelephone

( ( % 041-581 5826;104HeughRd, % fliesdailyfromPort 0860-008 888;www.spoornet 5041-81 1268) alsooperates out 042-293 2221) Baz Bus buses departfrom buses , lonelyplanet.com runs Monday, Budget ( % fliesdaily 021-439 2323) . Alsotry minibus

( % Inter- 041- SA detail. Thepark’sown detail. explain whatyou’re lookingatininteresting who cangive youadviceonwhere togoand cars are available attheairport. from thecitycentre. Taxis (US$9)andhire US$20) Book accommodationBook online at lonelyplanet.com drives. The Around Getting lonelyplanet.com accommodation. well ascamping, alongside thenormalB&B units,as packers’ roomsandself-catering B&B s/dUS$34/67; s/dUS$14/24, campsitesUS$3.40, backpackers webmail.co.za; ofnorthern section thepark. bungalows (onetofourpeopleUS$16) inthe a bush camp(onetofourpeopleUS$59)and where elephantscometodrink.Addoalsohas the accommodationoverlooks awaterhole bathroom US$14/35/47,4-personchaletsUS$52) tents/forest cabinswithsharedparks.org; campsites/safari Camp Addo Rest SLEEPING one of the be intolerable. of AddoonRte 335.Midsummerheat can at theparkheadquarters, 7kmfromthevillage rain. There isawell-stocked ifthere heavyThe parkisclosed hasbeen INFORMATION tively newintroductionstothepark. lionsandhyenas,rela-myriad birdsandeven but forthezebras,elands,kudus,warthogs, notonlyfortheelephants Cape, the Eastern of anyvisittothispartofAddo isahighlight some. Adayortwoat be unluckynottosee there are more than300inthepark,andyou’d 1931, there were only11elephantsleft.Today When Addowasproclaimedanationalparkin Cape. elephant herdsthatonceroamed Eastern wildlife viewing. around 120,000hectares of malaria-free recent expansion, Addo nowencompasses in theSundaysRiver Valley. Followinga of PortElizabeth,nearthe Zuurberg Range .org; adult/childUS$11/5; This Park National Elephant Addo TOKEIRIVER ELIZABETH PORT Homestead B&B Homestead For optimumwildlife-spotting, pickup The parkprotects theremnants of thehuge airport can also be used forelephant-spotting canalsobeused national park

(Allister Miller Rd,Walmer) (Allister Miller ‘hop-on rangers’ s

(bookings (bookings EASTERN CAPE •• Port Elizabeth to Kei River ElizabethtoKei CAPE••Port EASTERN ) Homestead hasafew back-

( ( % % h 042-223 0556;www.sanparks vehicle 042-233 0354;homestead@ 7am-7pm) % 042-223 0556;www.san

(US$7)

shop (2hr drive perperson (2hr drive is72kmnorth isabout5km atthegate, (

h Someof 8am-7pm)

hand breaks attheriver mouth.There’s also trails. stay inahut. stay upriver fromPortAlfred, withanovernight off Princes Ave, is near bothKowie River 2-/4-bedroom chaletsUS$43/57) Rd;campsitesUS$1.40, vanparks.co.za/medolino; 23Stewart viewsand neatrooms. with wonderfulsea cottages 3kmfromthe Kowie River mouth beach A charming collectionof self-contained cottagesfromUS$32) Freshwaterbeach.co.za; Rd;self-catering BeachCrest Bretton SLEEPING and August. US$200) NAUI scuba-divingcourse 624 4432;[email protected]; per personUS$11) Trails River Forthemore aerobically fit, Reserve. an 8km 2½hrtrailsUS$24,5hrUS$70) horsesafaris.co.za; HorseSafaris Fish River If you’re intoequestrianendeavours, contact ACTIVITIES and pricessurge. province tosoakuptheholidayatmosphere, life aspeoplearrive fromotherpartsof the (mid-December toJanuary) itbustleswith on thebeach anddrinkinthepubs.Inseason students fromGrahamstowncometolounge andquietexceptonweekends, when it’s staid wears dependslargely off-peak ontheseason: an islandof styleandserenity. Which faceit exemplar of theprovince’s lackof fundsand upmarket holidayresort, making itatoncean townandtheotherpart part unkempt seaside Port Alfred isanoddlittleplacethat’sone % Alfred Port tively youcantravel viaUitenhage onRte 75. The parkissignposted fromtheN2.Alterna- THERE&AWAYGETTING ner canbeprovided forUS$1.40perperson. huts onaworkingcitrusfarm.Abigbraaidin- friendly owners andvery pretty African-style s/dwithbreakfast.co.za; US$60/95; For Medolino Caravan Park Caravan Medolino Exposure School&Maximum Dive Keryn’s The two-day Chrislin 046 /pop32,500 surfers offers May divingcourses between walking trail walking

( ( % % , there are andleft- goodright- is a fairly easy 18km canoe trip isafairlyeasy18kmcanoe 041-624 1469) 042-233 0022;www.africanhuts-addo Kowie Canoe Trail Kowie Canoe

( through theKowieNature through % (

% ( 046-624 1606;www.bretton

% 046-675 1271; www.fishriver 046-675 1271;www.fishriver Thispark, intown hasmountain-bike 046-624 1651;www.cara s Thisplacehas ) ( %

041-624 2230; ( % Rufanes

. 481 046-

SOUTH AFRICA AFRICA SOUTH SOUTH AFRICA the harbour. has large well-equippedroomsoverlooking Cod–stylearchitecturewith attractive Cape Africa where hikers theirownpace and can set This isone of the few walking areas inSouth as there are easyentryandexitpoints. several Ncera River, butitispossibletodoanysection US$5.50) The 64km Coast, asitisthegraveyard formanyships. LondonisalsoknownastheShipwreckEast theGreatThe coastbetween FishRiver and Coast Shipwreck include Bathurst (US$1.20). London(US$9).Localdailyservices and East Port Elizabeth(US$7),Grahamstown(US$3) Heritage Mall. to There are daily services Friday andSaturday. (12 hours) onMonday,Tuesday,Wednesday, from PortElizabeth(1½hours) toDurban Backpackers (off Pascoe Crescent) onitsrun The THERE&AWAYGETTING features agreat selection. fishandseafood ler’s imaginative, oft-changing menualways ered oneof thecountry’sbestrestaurants, But- US$6-13; clientele. and more than35typesof pizzastoamacho gamedishes,such askuduandostrich, serving Easter) US$4.70-7; is lively. isslowtheambience beach. service Though trendy restaurant pizza-and-pasta onthe Dr; mainsUS$2.80-6; Guido’s Restaurant EATING US$70/95; AlbanyRd;s/dwithbreakfast RoyalAlfred.co.za; Marina, morning. every onthewideveranda big breakfast isserved restored builtin1898.A Victorianhouse dency isagraciousB&Binmagnificently 11 VroomRd;s/dwithbreakfast US$35/62) season. high and Kelly’s Thechalet rates doublein Beach. 482 Buck &Hunter Halyards Hotel Residency The Butler’s Baz Bus TheBuck&Hunter isapub-restaurant EASTERN CAPE •• Port Elizabeth to Kei River River ElizabethtoKei CAPE••Port EASTERN leadsfromtheGreat Fish River tothe h minibus taxirank as h

( lunch &dinnerWed-Mon) Shipwreck Hiking Trail Hiking Shipwreck %

( lunch &dinner,closedSunFeb-Nov except % ( % 046-624 3464;25Van St;mains derRiet ) Thiscomfywaterfront hotel 046-624 5382;www.theresidency.co.za;

021-439 2323) h ( ( % %

( % lunch &dinner) 046-624 5960; Main St;mains 046-624 5960;Main 046-84 3300;www.riverhotels

(Biscay Rd) 046-624 5264;WestBeach stops atStation Widelyconsid- (per personpernight

isoutsidethe Guido’sisa TheResi- & Aquarium Rds) & Aquarium especially helpful. neighbouring townships. neighbouring 9am-1pm Sun)Dealswithmattersrelating tothecityand buffalocity.co.za; Cyber Lounge Internet Access INFORMATION City’bythetourismauthorities. ‘Buffalo andthewholearea named Buffalos’, hasbeen from aboutArgyle St. StsouthtoFleet is Oxford St,withthecitycentre extending or WildCoasts.Themaindowntownstreet ing ontoholidayspotsalongtheSunshine here, formov- itcanbeagoodbase though a shark), there isn’treally much tokeep you hangs over thetown.Unless you’re asurfer (or London, yetastrange, inescapablemalaise can beasequallypopulousanddourEast to huge hills.Few sand citiesintheworld round beach baythatcurves andaspectacular The country’sonlyriver port,withagoodsurf % London East ( must bebooked through surf beach andbeautifulestuaries.Thetrail are rewarded of withwild,unspoiltsections camp more orlesswhere theychoose. They Rd; admission US$0.70; The SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES ranks. Standtheminibus taxi Buffalo pickpockets ifyouendupinthearea around Londonafter dark.Watchin East outfor Esplanade andget homefromanywhere ataxi considered safe towalkon.Take care onthe area aroundNahoon River mouthare not andtheThe eastern endof Beach Eastern DANGERS &ANNOYANCES Tourism the widerarea. www.ectourism.co.za; Board Tourism Cape Eastern don, bothin There are Lon- inEast twotouristoffices per 21minUS$2.80; Tourist Information 10am-6pmSat,3-6pmSun) 6.30pm Fri, % Its Khoesaan namemeans‘Placeof the Its Khoesaan 043 /pop980,000 043-743 6181) East London Museum

Buffalo City Book accommodationBook online at lonelyplanet.com ( onthebeachfront andbothnot h % King’s Tourist Centre Tourist King’s in East London inEast h 8am-4.30pm Mon-Fri, 9am-2pmSat, 8am-4.30pm Mon-Fri, 083-375 9040; 58 Beach Rd, Nahoon; 083-375 9040;58BeachRd,Nahoon; h h ( 8.30am-7.30pm Mon-Thu, to % 8am-4.30pm Mon-Fri) Covers 8am-4.30pm Mon-Fri) 9.30am-5pm Mon-Fri, 2-5pmSat, 9.30am-5pm Mon-Fri, 043-722 6015;www.visit

( % ( Wild Coast Reservations Wild CoastReservations % 043-743 0686; Dawson lonelyplanet.com 043-701 9600;

(cnr Longfellow (cnr Longfellow bie, 20kmfromtown. the beachfront of rusticouter suburbGonu- the city,withlogcabin-stylechalets on right 1938 had been thought tohave thought extinct 1938 hadbeen been astrange-looking fishthatuntil coelancanth, Book accommodationBook online at lonelyplanet.com seum includetrace-fossilseum humanfootprints for 50millionyears. Otherexhibitsatthemu- 11am-4pm Sun) lonelyplanet.com windows for panoramic views of cliffs and sea – windows for panoramicviews of and sea cliffs US$40/53; 10WhitthausSt,Gonubie;s/d withbreakfastbandb.co.za; US$9/43, highseasonUS$19/70) Beachfront, Gonubie,campsites/2-bedroomchalets lowseason for money,ifabitcharacterless. isterrific value this spickandspanguesthouse dubious-looking roadnearthebeachfront, US$16/24, s/dUS$27/36) 22CliffordSt;s/dwithshared.co.za; bathroom&breakfast doubles withtheirownbathroom. and aplunge pool.There are alsogood-quality clean chilling areas anddorms,abraaiarea vibey thanSugarshack, buthasspaciousand placeismuch quietermaintained andless shared bathroomUS$8/14/20,dUS$24; 11QuanzaSt;dm/s/dwith 7780; www.elbackpackers.co.za; on request. pool andbraaiarea. Meals canbearranged plus aprivate gardenwithalarge swimming but perfectly formed,withcomfyinsidespaces bathroom US$6/9/22; Rd;campsites/dm/dwithshared 4Hillview .nikinana.co.za; wooden gardencottages are alsoavailable. lessons (US$10)are alwaysavailable. Private jumping(US$3.40),andsurf offer includecliff up atthislively backpackers. Activitieson the beach justmetres away,thesurf’salways sites/dm/d withshared bathroomUS$4.70/9/22; EasternEsplanade,Beach;camp .sugarshack.co.za; Sugarshack Backpackers SLEEPING southern endof NahoonBeach. beachfront. adult/child US$2/1.20; a small h London zoo and alivingbeehive. White House White Gonubie Caravan Park Gonubie Caravan GuestHouse Mike’s East LondonBackpackers NanaBackpackers Niki The best If youhave children, there’s thesmall 9am-4.30pm Mon-Sun) s aquarium

) ( displays the stuffed originalof displaysthestuffed a % surfing surfing A stylish guesthouse withglass A stylish guesthouse ( % 043-722 1171;adult/childUS$2/1.20; EASTERN CAPE •• Port Elizabeth to Kei River ElizabethtoKei CAPE••Port EASTERN s h 043-740 0344;www.thewhitehouse Unfortunately uparather

Thisbackpackers issmall is at Nahoon Reef atthe is atNahoonReef ) (

% ( at Queen’s Park, atQueen’s and ( 9am-5pm Mon-Sun) % %

043-705 2637;Esplanade; Agreat escapefrom ( (

% ( % 043-705 9748;fax7405937; 043-743 3647;mikes@his % 043-722 8240;www 043-781 1122,084-782 043-722 8509;www s Thiswell- ) i onthe With ) East has a daily bus between Durban(US$27,10 has adailybusbetween daily buses toMthatha(US$17,four hours),daily buses mains US$8-13; ture, forpizzaandpasta. isagoodstandby with faux-Grecian columnsandawater fea- Port Elizabeth (US$19,5½ hours). Town (US$46,16hours)hours) via and Cape hours). 15 hours) andJo’burg/Pretoria (US$38, 14 Town(US$40, ban (US$26,10hours), Cape Port Elizabeth(US$25,fourhours), Dur- (Station St) stopatthe Intercape buses stop atthe Translux, Greyhound andSAConnection Bus US$250). Town (around (around US$150)andCape to PortElizabeth(aroundUS$95),Durban Londondaily at theairportandfliesfromEast Airways African The airportis10kmfromthecentre. Air THERE&AWAYGETTING of pipesmoke. There are frequent live acts. inafog class tojazzaficionadosdisappearing fromtheemergingeveryone blackmiddle of London section East couple of veggie optionstoo. fish of theday.There’s agoodwinelistand withdishessuch aspaellaandCajun seafood, simple andclassyrestaurant in specialises mains US$8-12; views. seaside elevated the touristoffice offers goodheartyfoodand fast, lunch&dinner) Rds; &Aquarium cnr Longfellow h up thealcohol. steaks, toasted sandwiches andpizzastosoak Backpackers, thisdown-to-earth pubserves US$2-5; Buccaneers EATING by whileyou’re having breakfast! you canwatch whalesanddolphinspassing Le Republik Le Republik Translux Strandloper Café Strandloper Café Guido’s Greyhound Greyhound Swallows Smokey lunch &dinner) h andattheairport.

( %

lunch &dinner)

( ( % % h Windmill Park Roadhouse h ( 043-743 4441;Esplanade;mainsUS$2.80-5; % (

(SAA; % 043-700 1999;www.translux.co.za) 043-743 5171;EasternEsplanade;mains This bright, noisydinerabove Thisbright, dinner Mon-Sat) This chain complete Italian, lunch &dinner) 043-743 9284;www.greyhound.co.za) ( 043-722 0076; King’s Tourist Centre, Tourist 043-722 0076;King’s % % ( % 043-735 4570; 95 Old Transkei Rd; 043-735 4570;95OldTranskei 043-706 0203) NexttoSugarshack 043-727 1349; Devereux Ave;043-727 1349;Devereux

mains US$5.50-8; life, frequented by This very elegant, A perfect cross- main trainstation has an office hasanoffice

(Moore St) h South has break- 483

.

SOUTH AFRICA AFRICA SOUTH SOUTH AFRICA 484 0 1 km EAST LONDON 0 0.5 miles

To N2 (1km); To N2 (1.5km); CAPE••EastLondon EASTERN A Mdantsane (15km); B C Gonubie (20km); D E F King William's Town (45km) White House (20km); Gonubie Caravan Park (21km); Durban (676km) Lowe St R102 1 Nahoon 1

Bonnie River M 11 R102 Doon 1 Devereux Ave Smartt Rd 12 Chiselhurst Oakhill Rd Kennington Rd

Kew Rd OLd Transkei Rd Beach Rd Beatty Rd Dersley St Berea Schultz Rd

Western Ave Beresford Rd Tindale Rd 2 2 Darlington Rd Selborne Berea Gardens Halstead Rd Jarvis Rd To Cyber Lounge (2km); ὈὈFrere Rd Ashley Rd ὈὈὈὈὈὈὈὈὈNahoon Beach & Reef (2km); Haig Rd M 11 Greenwood St Clevedon Rd Union Ave R

Smuts Rd Rd Lincoln 72 3 M

Castle St

Tecoma St Latimer St 4 Suffolk Rd Epsom Rd Dawson Rd Chamberlan Rd Pearce St

3 M ὈὈὈὈὈὈὈὈὈ3 1

John Bailie Rd Gleneagles Rd M Lukin Rd 4

Bunkers hill

St Andrews Rd ὈὈὈGately St ὈὈὈὈὈὈὈὈὈ The Drive Dr lonelyplanet.com

St Mark's Rd 4 4

Oxford St St James Rd Southernwood North East Expwy

St George Rd ὈὈὈὈὈὈὈὈὈ

ὈὈὈὈὈὈὈὈὈὈὈὈὈ lonelyplanet.com

Botanic St Peter's Rd Gardens

R 5 72 5

Lennox Rd EASTERN CAPE••EastLondon EASTERN Buffalo Park Ὀ ὈὈὈὈὈὈCricket Ground Basil Kenyon M Stadium Buffalo 13 Dyer St ὆὆὆὆Park Dr M 3 Rd North West Expwy St John's Rd Southernwood Recreation Rd ὆὆὆὆ Tilney St East Paterson St Cemetery ern Esp ὆὆὆὆ 9 I N D I A N John Bailie Commercial Rd East St Paul's Rd O C E A N Oxford St 8 Merino St 15 6 ὈVictoria Ave ὈὈὈὈὈὈὈ 6 M Eastern 1 Goldschmidt St North End Moore St Cres Beach Marine Tce Coutts St INFORMATION Quigney Rd urt

Tutton Tce Co Eastern Cape Tourism Board...... (see 1) King's Tourist Centre...... 1 D6 Albany St North St Moore St 1 Park Ave Milner M Tourism Buffalo City...... (see 1) Park Fitzpatrick St 13 Argyle St Tennyson St Buxton St Rhodes St Cambridge St SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Station St 14 Main LongfellowR St Aquarium...... 2 D7 Currie St 72 Train Angle St College St Gladstone St Signal St East London Museum...... 3 A3 ὈὈ Station CaxtonὈ St Ὀ Queen's Park Quigney East London Zoo...... 4 A7 Botanical Lock St Sea View Tce 2 Union St Garden Buffalo St Tce 10 SLEEPING 4 Terminus St Inverleith East London Backpackers...... 5 D7 7 Hillview Rd Currie St 7 R Gillwell 72 Caxton St Symons St M Marine Mike's Guest House...... 6 D7 13 Rees St Park Fleet St Clifford St Niki Nana Backpackers...... 7 C7 Market Quanza St 13 Sq 6 Esplanade Sugarshack Backpackers...... 8 D6 St 5 Settlers Way 7 To Airport (10km); Bonanza St EATING Train Station (10km); ὈὈ Commissioner St ὈὈὈ Buccaneers...... 9 D6 Port Elizabeth (298km) Prior Cres Rd Church St Brighton St Guido's...... 10 D7 Pontoon Orient Rd Le Republik...... (see 1) Latimer's Hill St Smokey Swallows...... 11 B1 Landing Strandloper Café...... 12 D1 South St Buffalo Bridge Buffalo River TRANSPORT 8 Orient Minibus Taxis...... 13 B7 8 Beach Minibus Taxis...... 14 A7 ὄὄ Windmill Park Roadhouse...... 15 D6

Wharf 485

Harbour East Breakwater SOUTH AFRICA AFRICA SOUTH SOUTH AFRICA day. Itrunsintheotherdirection Monday, day, Tuesday,Wednesday,FridayandSatur- LondonMon- Elizabeth toDurbanviaEast artists settle hereartists settle andthe populationages, a versity dominate the town.Butasestablished shop fronts. with beautifulpowder-blue andlemon-yellow Victorian andearlyEdwardianbuilding styles, The towncentre hassomefineexamplesof English-style prettiness belieabloodyhistory. andits try. Thetown’sgenteel conservatism Coun- ofGrahamstown isthecapital Settler % Grahamstown most of theoldCiskei Homeland. Country,aswell town, theheartof Settler coversThis section thearea aroundGrahams- &AROUND COUNTRY SETTLER Buses Buffalo CityMunicipal For informationontimesandroutes, contact stopatthe Most citybuses AROUND GETTING daily viaBloemfontein. (1st/2nd classUS$45/32,18hours) departs 888) The overnight Train Town(US$32,18hours). Cape six hours), Jo’burg (US$30,15hours) and (US$9.50, five hours), PortElizabeth(US$11, terworth (US$4.70,three hours), Mthatha King William’sTown(US$2,onehour),But- local area. Thefollowingare fares: sample for KingWilliam’sTown,Bhisho andthe of andGillwellStsare Caxton minibustaxis north of London.Nearbyonthecorner East todestinations minibustaxis long-distance On thecornerofandArgyle Stsare Buffalo Minibus Taxi picks upfromhostels. Tuesday, Thursday, FridayandSunday.It Town(US$47). connection toCape toJo’burg weekly (US$44)andatwice-weekly (US$17, five hours). Town (US$43,7½hours) andPortElizabeth London toCape fromEast has dailybuses 486 SA Connection SA Connection Intercape Socially, the students from Rhodes Uni- Socially, thestudents fromRhodes The 046 /pop100,000

Amathole EASTERN CAPE •• Settler Country&Around CAPE••Settler EASTERN Baz Bus

( % ( from East Londonto Jo’burg from East % 043-743 9284;www.intercape.co.za) Shosholoza Meyl Shosholoza ( % 021-439 2323) 086-110 2426)

( % 043-705 2666) city hall runs fromPort

( has buses % (OxfordSt) 0860-008 . .

2-5pm Mon-Fri) cheques (nocommissioncharged). foralllocaltravelandcashestravellers Handles bookings &AllenSts) galileosa.co.za; Pepper cnrAfrican GroveMall, and artof thepeoplesof Cape. theEastern 9am-1pmSat) 2-5pm Mon-Fri, Museum 9am-1pmSat) Mon-Fri, (Bathurst St;adult/childUS$1.10/0.70; wonderfully eccentric .za/albany-museum) Group Albany Museum fourofseums, which are administered bythe proudofGrahamstown isrightly itsmu- SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES Tourism Makana Travel Go Sure INFORMATION forcesafter afiercestruggle. Boer the region, theywere defeated byBritishand into theculture of –oncerulers theXhosa of trendy restaurants andchic bars. people fraternising araftof newlyopened, byasuddenbreed ofevidenced beautiful Capital’, with events of with events variouskinds happening Capital’, as‘Africa’sFestivalGrahamstown billsitself FESTIVALS &EVENTS township. inRhini visits toaherbalnursery meal(US$7),and cluding atraditionalXhosa building,organises townshipvisitsin- station St) tion Bldg,High Umthathi TOURS Fridays there are drummingsessions. a placetochill outandhave aswim,andon Dam Outfitters Gentlemen’s still aworkingnewspaperoffice, and and Edwardianshopfrontsare African writers. of workbyfamous South justaboutevery Museum town.co.za; 63 High St; 63High town.co.za; has internetaccess(US$4perhour). 1pm Sat)ThisofficeisanagentforTransluxbusesandalso new sideof as Grahamstownisdeveloping, Also undertheAlbanyaegisis There’s also the Visit the nearby townships for a glimpse Visit thenearbytownshipsforaglimpse For ataste of localstudentlife, headtothe Victorian The bestexamplesof preserved upGrey Stonthewayoutof town. It’s

(Somerset St;admissionUS$0.70; (Beaufort St;admissionfree; (Beaufort

( % , which thefirst contains editions ( 046-622 4450; www.umthathi.co.za; Sta- 046-622 4450;www.umthathi.co.za; , withanoffice intheoldtrain % ( . Themostinteresting isthe % . 046-622 2235; marianl.gbstravel@ 046-622 2235;marianl.gbstravel@ h 046-622 3241; www.grahams 046-622 3241;www.grahams

. , whichthehistory details 8.30am-5pm Mon-Fri, 9am- 8.30am-5pm Mon-Fri, ( National English Literary National EnglishLiterary % Observatory Museum Observatory 046-622 4450;www.ru.ac h lonelyplanet.com % 9am-1pm &2-5pm Albany Grocott’s Mail h 8.30am-1pm & 9am-1pm &

History History Birch’s

, one of the1820settlers, todaythisbuilding terstreet.co.za; 7Worcester St;s/dwithbreakfast US$70/150; US$4.70; Sat) which runfor10daysatthebeginningof July. 2 ThompsonSt;s/dUS$37/51) 10 Market St;s/dwithbreakfast US$52/89) 10 Market Book accommodationBook online at lonelyplanet.com an outdoor cocktail bar.an outdoorcocktail bistrofood andhaslive jazzand that serves Accommodation atthistimecanbebooked out www.nafest.co.za) popular times a year.several Thebiggest isthehugely lonelyplanet.com traditional SouthAfricanfood andspecialities 9.50; with anattachedbar. isaverytaurant average joint pizzaandpasta Grahamstown’s mostpopularstudent res- St;mainsUS$3.40-5; entrance viaHill Gino’s ItalianRestaurant EATING for US$16. less artworks.Three-course dinnerisavailable with sumptuousperiodfurniture andprice- as regarded.menu US$15)ishighly garden. Therusticrestaurant (three-course roomsinconvertedfortable andapretty stables ahugely withcom- houses popularguesthouse courtyard andarestaurant. charming Georgian cottage alsohasaprivate ina andshops,thisguesthouse museums Well-situated of withinwalkingdistance St;s/dwithbreakfast US$40/64; 137High .co.za; andsafe.wooden-floored roomswithTV recently, thisfriendlyB&Bhascosyandcomfy mospheric baranyway. probably spendmostof yourtimeintheat- you’ll in theirprevious incarnation,though are allconsiderably more than comfortable fingerprinting uponregistration. Thecells chance tofeel like aninmate, complete with jail –nowanationalmonumentoffers the dm/s/d withshared bathroomUS$9.50/14/23) Backpackers Old Gaol SLEEPING canbefreezing. a yearinadvance,andnights Calabash 137 High Street Street 137 High Trading Store Street 7 Worcester Cock House Hill Lantern Asupremely stylishNewYork-stylecafé h ) h breakfast, lunch&dinner) This luxurious guesthouse isfilled This luxuriousguesthouse National Arts Festival National Arts breakfast & lunch Mon-Sun, dinner Wed, Fri & breakfast &lunchMon-Sun,dinnerWed,Fri

( %

( ( and itsassociated Fringe Festival % %

046-622 2366; 123 High St;mainsUS$7- 046-622 2366;123High ( EASTERN CAPE •• Settler Country&Around CAPE••Settler EASTERN % ( % 046-636 1287; www.cockhouse.co.za; 046-636 1287;www.cockhouse.co.za; 046-622 8782; www.lanternhill.co.za; 046-622 8782;www.lanternhill.co.za; 046-622 9987; 131 High St;mains 046-622 9987;131High

( ( 046-622 3242;137highstr@xsinet % %

Superblyrefurbished ( % 046-622 2843;www.worces 046-636 1001;SomersetSt; 046-622 7208;8NewSt, Calabash offers

h ( % Namedafter Thisformer lunch &dinner) 046-603 1103; ai

) ing excellent service andheartylunches of ing excellentservice St; mainsUS$9.50-15; administrative of The capital Cape. Eastern Bhisho, of oncecapital Ciskei, isnowthe pop 171,000 Bhisho and visitfortheday. of culture, Xhosa mysticismandhistory. Galleryfeaturing in-depth explanations Xhosa one of thefinestinregion, withanexcellent admission US$0.70; cellent Themainreasonthe Xhosa. foravisitistheex- with intheinterminable struggle base military andanimportant ‘King’) wasacolonialcapital ety in1826,KingWilliam’sTown(knownas by the LondonMissionarySoci- Established % Town William’s King London (US$4.70,fourhours). Port Elizabeth(US$4.70,2½hours) andEast King William’sTown(US$4.70,three hours), (US$3.40, twohours), include FortBeaufort most leave township.Destinations fromRhini (US$9.50, twohours). Durban (US$36,13hours) andPortElizabeth alsostopattheterminus ontheirwayto buses LondonandMthatha.hours), viaEast (US$10, twohours) andDurban(US$38,12 Town(US$31,15hours), PortEliza Cape beth stop attheterminus onthedailyrunbetween London(US$15,2½hours). East Town(US$32, ninehours) and Cape tween stops inGrahamstownonitsdailyrunbe- prices andtimes. to Friday.Checkwiththetouristoffice for LondonandPortElizabethfromSunday East Friday, and Elizabeth andPortAlfred fromSundayto Sts) departfromthe Buses THERE&AWAYGETTING gainingattention. deservedly food,Maxwell’s ‘colonialised’ is self-styled meal andsausage). like hotpotsand Xhosa You’ll find minibus taxis on Raglan St,but onRaglan You’ll findminibustaxis Translux Intercape It’s probably better to stay in East London inEast It’s probablybetter tostay Greyhound Maxwell’s . The 043 Amathole Museum Bee Bus

( %

( (

% ( % Mini Lux Mini % 046-622 3241;www.translux.co.za) h 046-622 5119; cnr Somerset St & High 046-622 5119;cnrSomersetSt&High

046-622 2235; www.intercape.co.za) 046-622 2235;www.intercape.co.za) 046-622 2235;www.greyhound.co.za) ( h % 9am-4.30pm Mon-Fri, 10am-1pm Sat) 9am-4.30pm Mon-Fri, lunch &dinnerTue-Sun) 082-652 0798)

( % terminus (

% pap enwors 043-741 3107) 043-642 4506; 3 Albert Rd; 043-642 4506;3Albert (cnr High &Bathurst (cnr High

runstoPort runsto Offer- (maize buses buses 487

,

SOUTH AFRICA AFRICA SOUTH SOUTH AFRICA peratures thatcandropto-1°C. for rainatanytime,andinwinter fortem- heavy, in11outof prepared 12months. Be drives inthearea. rarely Snowfalls,though mountain’s edge.mountain’s ningly decorated cottages strung outalongthe tages fromUS$47; cot- Bluff End; self-catering info@theedge_hogsback.co.za; Ridge. little getaway withasuperb viewof Hogsback with shared bathroomUS$5.50/9.50/23; HydrangeaLane;campsites/dm/d [email protected]; ecodestination forested valleysinall directions, make itan and mind-boggling viewsof and mountains organicclimate food, (fourdistinctseasons), has enjoyedarecent renaissance. ItsEnglish west of Bhisho, thesmallvillage of Hogsback about100kmnorth- Amathole Mountains, Improbably located 1300m upinthebeautiful % HOGSBACK www.dwaf.co.za; William’sTown) 9ChamberlainSt,King &Forestry Affairs ment ofWater ably experiencedandfit. should onlybeattempted ifyouare reason- walks,butisprettymountain and tough son US$24) too.minibus taxis William’s Townrun.There are occasional andAliceontheJo’burg–King Seymour to City Daily William’s TownorQueenstown. theforeststains, silence. take onaneerie the mistsare downonthe Amathole Moun- nous forest. There are somegoodwalks.When withremnantpartly rugged mountains indige- Town ispartlydegradedgrazinglandand The area northandwestof KingWilliam’s Amathole & Mountains Katberg toBhisho.William’s Towntrainstation of thenewprovincial bureaucracy. public buildings,which are nowintheservice pact bunch andugly of grandiose suitably bureaucrats andpoliticians,sothere isacom- centre of Ciskei’s Bhisho wasbuilttohouse 488 The 121km,six-day travelRegular minibuses fromtheKing Away withtheFairies There are somegreat walks,bike ridesand Another optionis the The trailmustbebooked withthe The easiestwayintothisarea isviaKing 045 /pop1500

EASTERN CAPE •• The Karoo CAPE••TheKaroo EASTERN ( % ranksasoneof SouthAfrica’stop 011-773 2762) i par excellence ) , acollectionof 12stun- buses stopinKatberg,buses Amathole Trail Edge

( % . s

(

( % % 045-962 1031; isamajestic ) 045-962 1159; 043-84 5433; (per per- Depart- . City our purposes it’sallcoveredour purposes here. and sprawlsintothree provinces, for though respectbut itdoesn’t provincial boundaries Karoo (north)andtheLittleKaroo (south), Orange River. It’soften splitintotheGreat ranges, andtotheeastnorthbymighty mountain in thesouthandwestbycoastal areaSouth Africa’stotal andisdemarcated the Swartberg Pass andunwind here. had yourfillof theGardenRoute, headover anothercar.hours withoutseeing Ifyou’ve youcandrivehow off themainhighways for isthewaylifethough, moves slowly,and beautiful) and the jaw(thelandscapeisspare, violentand mercury canhit45°Cinsummer),slackat dryatthemouth(for feel simultaneously andstarscapes anddelivers.sets Here you’ll ‘land of thirst’) stunningsun- thatpromises wordmeaning plateau (itsnameisaKhoesaan The Karoo ispure magic.It’savastsemi-arid KAROO THE stown (US$6oneway). or OldGaolBackpackers ( p487 ) inGraham- Backpackersneer’s ( p492 (Chintsa), ) inCintsa Backpackers ( p483 London,Bucca- ) inEast a carisbyshuttle busfromtheSugarshack Reinet. of is withinwalking distance Graaff- serve the benignlysurreal feel of thewholeplace. variety of eccentriclocalcharacters whoaddto some excellent-value accommodationanda beauty isacharming small-townquirkiness, and ornate Victorianvillas.Addedtoallthis gables, toclassicflat-roofed Karoo cottages withtheirdistinctive Dutch houses, from Cape rangenated asnationalmonuments.These heritage withmore than220 buildingsdesig- South Africa,andithasasuperbarchitectural town thatshouldnotbemissed. exaggeration –it’sasafe, exquisite, fascinating referred toasthe‘jewelof theKaroo’ isno keting slogans,butthat isoften Graaff-Reinet Town nicknamesare often nomore thanmar- % Graaff-Reinet the nearest metropolis. agoraphobicsscramblingfor known tosend It’s thefourth-oldestEuropeantownin The Karoo covers almostone-thirdof The easiestwaytoget toHogsbackwithout The wildandbeautiful Karoo Nature Re- Perhaps thebestthingabout theKaroo, 049 /pop43,300 tiny –thehorizonshave been lonelyplanet.com ὈὈὈὈ ὈὈὈὈ ὈὈὈὈ ὈὈὈὈ ὈὈὈὈ Book accommodationBook online at lonelyplanet.com association. tothepublicity tours.co.za; ChurchSt)Internetaccessnext Graaff-Reinet PublicityAssociation Graaff-Reinet INFORMATION lonelyplanet.com built between 1806and1812,isabeautiful built between Sat, 9am-4pmSun) US$0.90/0.30; paintings andfossilsfromtheKaroo. tion of photographs, historicalclothing,rock 9am-3pmSat,9am-4pmSun) Mon-Fri, erset Sts;adult/childUS$0.70/0.50; are refreshingly contemporary. manent collectionof paintingsandsculptures in 1821.Thebeautifulinterior spaceandper- Dutch ReformedMissionchurch, consecrated 9am-noonSat&Sun) 2-5pm Mon-Fri, Church St;adult/childUS$0.70/0.40; The SIGHTS Connections Karoo maps andinformationaboutthearea. anabundanceof 9am-noonSat&Sun)Offers Mon-Fri, 4248; www.graaffreinet.co.za; ChurchSt; 1 3 2 GRAAFF-REINET Reinet House Reinet The Hester Rupert Art Museum Art Rupert Hester Minibus taxis...... Buses)...... Pioneers...... Kliphuis...... Coldstream...... Obesa Lodge...... Le JardinBackpackin'...... Graaff-Reinet Backpackers...... (see2) Drostdy Hotel...... Buiten VerwagtenB&B...... Reinet House...... Old Library...... Hester RupertArtMuseum...... Drostdy...... (see 7) Karoo Connections...... (see3) Association...... TRANSPORT EATING SLEEPING SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES INFORMATION Kudu Motors(Long-Distance C2 Karoo Connections...... Graaff-Reinet Publicity Old Library Karoo Nature h AC Reserve , theDutch Reformedparsonage 8am-12.30pm & 2-5pm Mon-Fri, 9am-3pm 8am-12.30pm &2-5pmMon-Fri,

( % EASTERN CAPE••TheKaroo EASTERN

( ( Van derWaltshoek(46km); % % To Rheboksberg(24km); 049-892 3801; Murray St;adult/child 049-892 3801;Murray ὈὈ ὈὈ 049-892 3801;cnrChurch&Som- 049-892 3978;www.karoo (135km) 14 13 12 11 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 h D2 C3 D2 C2 C2 D3 B2 C2 C2 D2 C2 C2 C2 wasoriginallya houses acollec- houses h 8am-12.30pm &2-5pm

( % ( h 9am-12.30pm & Mountain Dr %

049-892 2121; Ground

Botanic B 8am-5pm Sports Donkin St Donkin 049-892

63 R 8 St Stockenstroom

Caledon St Church &Parsonage Sts;dmUS$11,d/tr/qwithshared bathroom the area’s attractions. The owners are minesof informationabout rooms andalarge gardenforexcellentprices. a &CaledonSts;s/dwithshared bathroomUS$12/24; cnr Donkin Le JardinBackpackin’ SLEEPING drives, nature walksandcitytours. It canalsoarrange townshipwalks,wildlife (US$19). cluding totheKaroo Nature Reserve tours.co.za; Church St) andgroupmeals. homestays township life. Thecompanycanalsoorganise cultureboth Xhosa andhistorymodern tour (US$10),which gives into aninsight ( readers haveSeveral recommended TOURS

% vines intheworld. rear courtyardhasoneof thelargest grape- example of Dutch architecture Cape andthe Cradock St Cradock Graaff-Reinet Backpackers Backpackers Graaff-Reinet Connections Karoo ) Welcoming Le Jardin WelcomingLe provides homely

Somerset St 082-844 2890) 11 ὈὈ

6 Port Elizabeth(290km) St Church Reformed To Aberdeen(54km); Church Dutch Parliament

Sundays Caroline St Bourke St Bourke St Middle St West St Bethesda (55km); Cradock (130km) 7 13 foritsthree-hour township To Nieu operates tours inthearea in-

River 3 1 Church St Church 4 2 10 Parsonage St 0.3miles 500m 0 0

( N

9 % ( % 12 049-892 5890,082-6444938; Market

049-892 3978;www.karoo Murray St Murray Sq 14 9 N 9

(

5 % Disused Graaf-Reinet 049-892 5334;cnr D

Disused Irhafu Tours Irhafu

Cypress

Gve

489 AFRICA SOUTH SOUTH AFRICA café-restaurant serves so-so sandwiches but so-sosandwiches café-restaurant serves ostrich and kuduorspringbok. ites, such asthebeloved ‘trio’platter of beef, specialising inlocalvariationsonoldfavour- lent restaurant inaconverted familyhome this beautiful old hotel is in Graaff-Reinet’s this beautifuloldhotel isinGraaff-Reinet’s 30 ChurchSt;s/dUS$55/86; dishes such as moussaka andquiche,dishes such it’sno asmoussaka lamb orvenison aspeciality,andgrease-free .co.za; 64 Murray St;s/dwithoutbreakfast US$19/31, 64Murray .co.za; (US$42, 11 hours). daily onitsrun to Jo’burg Graaff-Reinet Elizabeth (US$27, three hours). (US$16, 1½hours) andonthewaytoPort (US$19,threeQueenstown hours) viaCradock Town(US$34,8½hours) to run fromCape Translux agent. Transluxstopshere onthe St) stop at buses Long-distance THERE &AWAYGETTING best. wonder Kliphuisisoneof Graaff-Reinet’s dinner Sun) US$5.50-9; US$6-8; ternet café andasmallcurioshop. There’s touristinfo,anin- streetside seating, delicious cakes andbigcooked breakfasts. US$1.40-4, mainsUS$8; Pioneers EATING is particularlyenchanting. 19th-century cottages andthecourtyardcafé restored facilities. charming rooms,somewithself-catering wagten, surroundedbyalovely garden,has US$46/65; St;s/dwithbreakfast from 58Bourke .buitenverwagten.co.za; isachangeObesa of B&Bs. pacefromstaid with nameslike Mama, MoodyBluesandBad designed psychedelically coloured cottages 2-bedroom cottagesUS$47; phere, theroomsare though airyandbright. budget stakes thankstoitssubdued atmos- bestinthe from itslocationbutisstillsecond US$27/36/46; 490 . ThePublicityAssociation actsasthe office Buiten Verwagten B&B Verwagten Buiten Obesa Lodge Intercape Kliphuis Coldstream Drostdy Hotel EASTERN CAPE •• The Karoo CAPE••TheKaroo EASTERN h

is ( drostdy h With the Sunday carvery of KarooWith theSundaycarvery % breakfast, lunch&dinnerMon-Sat)

i

( (www.intercape.co.za) (www.intercape.co.za) % breakfast, lunch&dinnerTue-Sat, lunch& 049-892 6059;3Parsonage St;lightmeals

) This newerbackpackers benefits (

%

) ( ( 049-892 2345; 46 Bourke St;mains 049-892 2345;46Bourke ThebeautifulBuiten Ver- % % . Guests stay inrestored. Guestsstay mid- 049-891 1181;3ChurchSt;mains h 049-892 2161; www.drostdy.co.za; 049-892 2161;www.drostdy.co.za; 082-588 5900;www.graaffreinet breakfast, lunch&dinner) as s

( ) % Themainpartof ) Kudu Motors With cheerfully 049-892 4504;www passes through through passes Anexcel- (Church

This tiny Rheede St,Oudtshoorn) Rheede off from the mountain springs.Asystem of fromthemountain off town isgreen andfertile, thankstotherun- being surroundedbyvery harsh country,the represents anidylliclife intheKaroo. Despite dozing atthefootof theSwartberg Pass – a charming village datingbackto1762and To manyurbanSouthAfricans,PrinceAlbert– % &Around Albert Prince only available inGraaff-Reinet. modation (exceptontheovernight trail)is foratour.nections inGraaff-Reinet Accom- Karoo orcontact Con- around thereserve, withtheovernightern section hikingtrail. ingly beautifulandrugged place;andtheeast- withtheValleysection of Desolation,ahaunt- area tothenorthof thedam;western into three thewildlife-viewing mainsections: Reinet andtheplains.Theparkissubdivided great viewsoverlooking thetownof Graaff- rockformationsand draw isthespectacular park undertheauspicesof SANParks. istobecomeanational Karoo Nature Reserve Fund hasmeantthatthe16,000hectares of the A donationin2005fromtheWorldWildlife Reserve Nature Karoo and Jo’burg. destinations are Town PortElizabeth,Cape beneath the Groot Swartberg Range, whichbeneath the GrootSwartberg is Range, The road runsalong a valley, mountains. Nature Cape walkshave tobebookedOvernight through of trailsintheSwartberg Nature Reserve. Karoo andhikingonthemore than100km forexploring the Prince Albertisagoodbase SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES 9am-noonSat) 5pm Mon-Fri, ( fromthecoast. from Oudtshoornoreven short ontime,youcaneasilyvisitadaytrip week. they are periodeach entitledtoopenforaset haveand mosthouses asluicegate, which original water channels town runsthrough % There’s agooddrive eastto Minibus taxis leaveMinibus taxis fromMarket Sq.Major You’ll need tohaveYou’ll need yourowncartoget There are plentyof animals,butthereal Contact thehelpful Contact If youhave yourowntransportandare 023 /pop2500 023-541 1366; www.patourism.co.za; ChurchSt; 023-541 1366;www.patourism.co.za; dorp (smalltown)along thefootof the ( Book accommodationBook online at lonelyplanet.com % 044-279 1739; Queen’s Mall, Baronvan 044-279 1739;Queen’sMall, . formore information. tourist informationoffice tourist lonelyplanet.com Klaarstroom h , a 9am-

cooked disheswithpanache. traditionalhome- excellent restaurant serves a reason tocomePrinceAlbertasany,this .co.za; 70ChurchSt;s/dwithbreakfast.co.za; US$51/75; Book accommodationBook online at lonelyplanet.com is acampingplaceonthetrail. can bewalked inaboutfive hours butthere Klaarstroom (10km), On Rte PrinceAlbert(40km)and 407between cut bydramaticgullies,cleftsandwaterfalls. lonelyplanet.com most common of which are dassies (agile, SAN Parks. scapes andrepresentative floraandisrunby 33,000 hectares of impressive Karoo land- h adult/child US$8/4,campsitesUS$14,dcottages US$55; National Park West, the Just 5kmnorthof Beaufort Park National Karoo up fromthetrainstation. willpickyou US$7, butmostplacestostay Prince Albert.Private fromthere taxis cost tion onPrinceAlbertRd,45kmnorthwestof drop-off pointisatthetrainsta- the closest toPrinceAlbert; no direct busortrainservice Town andJo’burg. There Cape N1 between is area’s from Oudtshoorn,orfromthe passes Most peoplevisitbydrivingover oneof the THERE&AWAYGETTING St;mainsUS$8; 18 Deurdrift US$4) are popularwithlocals. US$5) andSwartberg Armsrestaurant (mains coffee shop(mainsUS$2.40to The attached relax inandthehotel organises area activities. the mainhotel. There are amazinggardensto fromthatched-roofchoose hutsorroomsin Swartberg isathree-star countryinn;youcan able aboutthearea. areand Elsabe terrific, andvery knowledge- and beautifulantiquefurniture. HostsGeorge an owner-run withalarge guesthouse garden 66 ChurchSt;s/dfromUS$30/61; area. of informationandoffer guidedhikes inthe anditsowners are agreatsatellite TV, source as www.saxecoburg.co.za; 60ChurchSt;s/dfromUS$24/49; Lodge ofSaxe-Coburg Albert Prince SLEEPING &EATING Karoo Kombuis Karoo Lodge Karoo The park has61speciesof mammal,the Hotel Swartberg 5am-10pm) ) Thisplaceoffers lovely roomswith

, proclaimedin1979,covers (

( % % EASTERN CAPE••WildCoast EASTERN

023-415 2828/9;www.sanparks.org;

( 023-541 1647; www.karoolodge.com; 023-541 1647;www.karoolodge.com; ( % % h 023-541 1110; Karoo Kitchen; Kitchen; 023-541 1110;Karoo 023-541 1332;www.swartberg Remhoogte Hiking Trail Hiking Remhoogte dinner Mon-Sat) as ( %

Thislodge is ) 023-541 1267; As good is Karoo Karoo )

Xhosa peopleareXhosa someof thefriendliest beach called Cintsa, 38km from East London. beach 38km fromEast calledCintsa, your face atanunspoiltstretch of white-sand Heading tohit spraystarts uptheN2,sea % Cintsa (Chintsa) far between. appear onmaps,andsignpostsare few and remember thatmostof theroadshere don’t before camping.Don’tdrive after dark, and on theWildCoast,alwaysaskpermission isthemostpopularroute.fee Bay five-day PortStJohns walkbetween andCof- paths villages. thatconnectthecoastal The car forawhileandmake of use thewalking landscape. painted homeswhichtheir brightly dotthe chances are you’llbeinvited insideafew of anywhereyou’ll meet inSouthAfrica,and for itscrimerate anditsextreme poverty. stills bears thestigmaof anarea oncefeared this partof thecountry. ‘Transkei’, however, apartheid-era homelandthatoncecovered as the‘Transkei’, which wasthenameof the casional holidayresort orbackpacker hostel. shore andtheoc- are settlements tinyXhosa LondontoPortEdward.Dotted alongits East adventure andintrigue. the aptlynamedWildCoastisaplacefor history of shipwrecks andstrandedsailors, remote coves beaches sheltering anda sandy plungingintothesea, With itsrugged cliffs WILD COAST camp is10kmfurtherintothepark. therestin orcatch fromtown;however ataxi West, fromwhere toeitherhike youwillneed Dutch-stylesites cottages. orinCape or overnight 4WDguidedtrails. day walk.There are alsovehicle routes andday There are twoshort nature trailsandan11km There are agreat manyreptiles andbirds. reintroduced,been ashastheoddblackrhino. zebrashaveis smallbutgrowing.Mountain and bat-eared foxes. Theantelope population rodent-like mammals,alsocalledhyraxes) Whatever thenameforregion, the You mayhearsomepeoplerefer tothearea camp Accommodation iseitheratpleasant Facilities includeashop and restaurant. If youplantohike ordrive aroundinland This istheplacetoforego thebusoryour The WildCoaststretches for350kmfrom Public transportwilltake youtoBeaufort 043 /pop2000

491 SOUTH AFRICA AFRICA SOUTH SOUTH AFRICA has good beach access andtennis courts. three tothepool, B&B apartments.It’s close midrange mini-resort has23cottages plus cottagesUS$60; US$40/74, self-catering .crawfordscabins.co.za; CintsaEast;s/d withbreakfast cottages (US$38)are alsoavailable. are tents andsafari comfortable (US$20)and Heartland here. Tours based Thedormrooms the excellentAfrican door activitythrough backpackers offering imaginableout- every is asortof all-inclusive holidayresort for US$6/10/24; www.cintsa.com; CintsaWest;campsites/dm/dwithbathroom Buccaneer’s Backpackers SLEEPING are missing). fourofcontains theBigFive (onlyelephants US$67/53; gamedrive afternoon serve is theprivate, upmarket out forafew Alsointhearea days(orweeks). the bestplaceonthispartof the coasttohang West.It’sdefinitely and Cintsa East Cintsa twosmall,pretty comprises villages,Cintsa 492 Cofimvaba Mdantsane (120km) To Port WILD COAST Alfred Crawfords Lodge & Cabins Crawfords Lodge&Cabins

(

% EASTERN CAPE••WildCoast EASTERN

Tsomo River Tsomo

Gqunube Rv Gqunube Great Kei Great 043-734 3234;www.inkwenkwezi.com;morning/ Komga is Elliot Tsomo Beacon Bay East London Butterworth Mpetu Inkwenkwesi N 2 Gonubie Morgan's Bay GR

Somethingof ararity,‘Bucks’

) Engcobo Rv Kentani Cintsa Munyu Bashee Bridge

Taleni Haga-Haga (

Willowvale

Catspas %

Ebende

Kabonga Idutywa Qora Ntibane Inkwenkwesi Game Re- Inkwenkwesi Game

Kei Mouth

h ( Luchaba NR 043-734 3012,7343749; Nxaxo Ὀ % Maclear Qolora Mouth Manubi Nduli NR Viedgesville

Bityi Rv Elliotdale

8am-4pm) 043-738 5000;www Rv Nqabara

Nyokana ais Mbashe Rv Mbashe Sidwadweni Ciko Qunu Mthatha Stoneyridge Tsolo To Kokstad (120km) Qora Mouth Alderley Mveso Hobeni Qumbu , which Ngqungqu Mqanduli

Dwesa

Old Morley Nobantu Xora Rv Xora Buntingville Ngqeleni ) Tsitsa Bridge Dwesa NR This Tina Bridge Libode Mdumbi Cwebe NR

N 2

Bulungula Rv Umtata Mpame Rv Mdumbi Execution Rock of Old Bunting

Coast, which isreached the bytaking last resort before thebeginningof theWild Coffee Bay To reach Cintsa from East London, take Exit London,takeTo reach Exit fromEast Cintsa THERE&AWAYGETTING Mngaz Bay, is a tranquilandecofriendlyBay, camp site, US$7/12) camp sitesUS$6plusUS$1.40 perperson;hutshelterss/d Great Kei River. (vehicle ferry; percarUS$6; developed, mid-January. booked mid-Decemberand solidbetween and surfing.Pricesskyrocket andplaces get some peaceandquietforbeachcombing village of Morgan’s agoodplacefor Bay, by turningofftheN2ontoRte 349,isthe andreachedAlong thecoastfromCintsa, % Mouth Bay&Kei Morgan’s is another16kmfurtheron. West turn-off turn-off. TheCintsa East Cintsa overpass andfollowtheroadfor1kmto CoastResorts)off theN2.Goover26 (East the Tshani Notintsila

Tombo Yellowwood Park Umzimvubu Just after more Morgan’s andslightly Bay

043 /pop2200 ana

Hluleka NR

Gemvale

Rv Umtafufu Flagstaff , located about1km fromMorgan’s Mpande

Umngazi I NDA

O CEAN Holy Cross Rv Silaka NR Hospital Palmerton

Port StJohns Ὀ Book accommodationBook online at lonelyplanet.com Kei Mouth Kei Rv

Lusikisiki Ntambalala Umtentu Mgoma Mkambati Mbotyi NR (

% Msikaba Rv RGameReserve GR NR LEGEND 30miles 50km 0 0

Port Grosvenor (www.keimouth.co.za) (www.keimouth.co.za) h 043-841 1598, 1319; Impisi Coast NaturalPark Future siteofWild 7am-6pm) Nature Reserve lonelyplanet.com Port Edward acrossthe is the pont

This isthemore hippified of thetwoback- low/high seasonUS$42/49; rwithbreakfast841 1062;www.morganbay.co.za; &dinner bar serving pub grub. There’s alsoa bar serving family hotel withaMediterranean feel anda Book accommodationBook online at lonelyplanet.com arranged from East London. arranged fromEast quented bybirdsandmonkeys. Liftscanbe surrounded byindigenous forest andfre- lonelyplanet.com sessions. The dormsandrooms aresessions. comfort- yoga instruction, organic and drum meals packers It’s asoulfulplace,with inCoffee Bay. ers.com; campsites/dm/dwithshared bathroom US$4/9/22) Bomvu Paradise SLEEPING &EATING (from US$8) about US$20) sorts of daytrips,including Bomvu Paradise andthe Coffee Shack, run all Thetwobackpacker hostels,towering cliffs. beautiful kilometre-long infrontof beach set the surroundingsceneryisdramatic,witha curios anddaytrips. locals hover, tryingtosell in thevillage centre. afew Inbetween, hopeful hostels and acoupleof more upmarket hotels hamlet isabackpackers’ mecca,withtwobusy days,thisonceremoteon thebeach. These here in1863deposited itscargo of coffee beans name, butthere isatheorythatship wrecked No oneissure howtiny gotits Coffee Bay % Bay Coffee most of hotels have thecoastal campsites. on thebeachfee. isprohibited, Camping but isincludedinthebooking of inthese staying estuaries tocross. London,astherenewspaper inEast are several publishedinthe the tidetables acopyofafter You’llneed white settlement. the coastbutdisappeared asadistinctgroup Walkers) tribewholived on were aKhoesaan fitness isrequired. TheStrandlopers (Beach London.It’safairlyeasytrail,butgood East between Kei MouthandGonubie,justoutside (bookings US$30) The 60km,five-day Trails Strandloper (camp siteslow/highseasonUS$8/29) Coffee Bay itself is a fairly scruffy place,but isafairlyscruffy itself Coffee Bay There are fourovernight hutsandthecost Alternatively, the 047 /pop600 and the one-night andtheone-night % and , 043-841 1046;[email protected]) guided hikes guided hikes surfing trips surfing

( % EASTERN CAPE••WildCoast EASTERN 047-575 2073;www.bomvubackpack is Strandloper Hiking Trail Strandloper Hiking Morgan BayHotel Morgan (from US$7) Strandloper Canoe Trail Strandloper Canoe

(US$8) dagga ) is a light andairy isalight nextdoor. horse riding . Daily Dispatch , (marijuana), cultural visits camp site

( (2hr treks %

runs (trail 043-

Shell UltraCity,4kmsouthof Mthatha. .co.za; camp sitesUS$7,cabins withoutbeddingperperson .co.za; at night. to US$7)are available andthebargets lively (breakfast US$2.80toUS$5, dinnerUS$3.40 beach andanarrayof activitiesonoffer. Meals peaceful hostel withagreat viewof anidyllic from thetowncentre, thisisabeautifuland with shared bathroomUS$6/10/24) BeachRd;campsites/dm/d www.amapondo.co.za; Second Amapondo Backpackers SLEEPING famous ‘PondoFever’ formonths. andstay and thesoundof thewaves, succumbtothe travellers, lulledbytheclinkingof windchimes jamsandabsolutely nostress.traffic Many greatvegetation, dramaticcliffs, beaches, no mouth of theUmzimvubuRiver hastropical This idylliclittletownonthecoastat magnet forhippytypesbothyoungandold. The deliciouslylaid-back Port StJohns isa % StJohns Port hostels the meet US$3 andtakes onehour. Thebackpacker costs fromMthathatoCoffee Bay bus taxi road thatleaves theN2atViedgesville. Amini- If you’re take thesealed drivingtoCoffee Bay, THERE&AWAYGETTING grocery store. fromlocalsandthere’sseafood awell-stocked inthebarevenings. served snacksare dinnerUS$11)andseafood (set overlooking theocean.There isarestaurant quality, bungalow-stylerooms,withadeck US$471/70; s/dwithhalfboardUS$55/81,withoutsea views view.co.za; first pick-upisfree. –the Coast, thehostel offers ashuttle service you’re comingfromelsewhere ontheWild across theriver offer alittlemore privacy.If dorms inthemainblockbutrondavels live There localmusicintheevenings. are Shack hasadefinite partyvibe,withregular Just acrosstheroadfromBomvu,Coffee camp sites/dm/dwithshared bathroomUS$5.50/9.50/27; and friendly. very efficient able andfunkythestaff Cremorne Hotel Hotel Cremorne Hotel Ocean View Coffee Shack You can buy mussels, crayfishandother You canbuymussels, 047 /pop2100 ais (

% Baz Bus 047-575 2048; www.coffeeshack.co.za; 047-575 2048;www.coffeeshack.co.za; ( %

) OceanViewhasgood- ( ( %

% 047-564 1113; www.cremorne 047-575 2005;www.ocean ( 047-564 1344,083-3153103; % Fourkilometres 021-439 2323) at the 493 i

) SOUTH AFRICA AFRICA SOUTH SOUTH AFRICA are onoffer atthisfriendly,familyhotel, ina roomsandrusticfishermans’ cabins fortable 1506; offPussfoot Lane,First Beach;dwithshared bathroom 494 refer toas‘thecentre of theuniverse’. andwhatlocals jokingly visit inthe Highlands of theword)placeto the top(inallsenses Grassy, gorgeous isa heavenlyRhodes place: % &Tiffindell Rhodes yourown vehicle.parts, you’llneed on mostlyartificialpistes). Inthemore remote winter provide theopportunityto ski(albeit lent hikingandfishing,whilesnowfalls in and touristscarcity.Summerbrings excel- the bestof bothworlds:stunningscenery the Lesotho, enjoys Highlands North-Eastern Wild Coasttothesharply ascendingpeaksof that stretches fromthe lush valleysof the area comprisingtheout-of-the-way Roughly HIGHLANDS NORTH-EASTERN sealed. The roadfromMthathatoPortStJohns is road toLusikisikiandthen17kmof dirtroad. roundabout. here (US$4,twohours) thatdropyouatthe regular toPortStJohns minibustaxis from tobookahead.Therebut it’sessential are also (where Busstops)foraroundUS$6, theBaz the Shell UltraCity,4kmsouthof Mthatha Most backpacker placeswillpickyouupfrom THERE&AWAYGETTING in otherbuildingsontheproperty. towel.Accommodationisalsoavailable fluffy tifully decorated, withscented candlesand dreamy outdoorshower. roomisbeau- Each tages toashared braai area, kitchenette anda connects anadorable groupof woodencot- US$30, 2-bedroomcottageUS$47-59) movies, bookswapandasplashpool. Islandalsohaslaundryservice, nightspot. restaurant (dishesUS$4.70toUS$7)and itcomesaliveat night asapopularIsraeli ofthis hostel calm,but isanislandinasea bathroom US$9.50/24/30; 4Berea Rd;dm/d/trwithshared .theislandbackpackers.co.za; a cosypubandrestaurant. on thebanksof theUmzimvubuRiver. There’s locationoverspectacular theferry fromtown US$12, s/dwithbreakfast US$65/97; If you’re driving,there isagoodsealed Gwyneth’s Barn&Ekuphumleni Lodge Island Backpackers 045 EASTERN CAPE •• North-Eastern Highlands Highlands CAPE••North-Eastern EASTERN is

( % A raised walkway Araised ) Duringtheday s 047-564 1958;www

( Clean,com- ) % /fax 047-564 is a cosy guesthouse withaconvivialbarand is acosyguesthouse .co.za; 97Somerset St) .co.za; .co.za; perpersonwithfullboardUS$47) .co.za; there’s arestaurant (mainsUS$7). with woodenfloors andantiquefurniture and would have acenturyago. Roomsare comfy, thatlooksverying establishment much asit person fromUS$14) cottagesper s/dwithfullboardUS$44/89,self-catering .co.za; Inn forthekey. middle of thevillage. Inquire atWalkerbouts a great spotundershady trees inthe right camp sitesUS$5.50) Park &Caravan Campsite Rhodes SLEEPING &EATING prices). South Africa’sbesthikes (especiallyatthese and inahiker’s hut.Thisisconsidered oneof accommodation inacottage, onaguestfarm three-daysometimes-rough hike thatincludes 3-night trailwithaccommodationperpersonUS$27) pub. highest 2720m),SouthAfrica’s tion 2720(elevation: here. Enjoyanaprès-skiortwoinIceSta- 95 days(late May tomid-August) ispossible of snow-making facilitiesmeanthataseason is apurpose-built winter sportsresort. Its pass(4WDonly)fromRhodes, mountain Cape Tourism Board Tourism Cape tryside isstillravishing. the Contact swimming pools, but thesurroundingcoun- US$2; town.Theoriginal tatty spas; todayit’saratherobscure andsomewhat major of touristdrawcardbecause itsthermal Aliwal North wasintheearly20thcenturya % Aliwal North organise ashuttle (US$15return). now 2WDfriendly,butWalkerbouts Inndoes you have a4WD.TheroadtoTiffindell is don’t attempt theroute fromMaclear unless fine for2WDcars (60km,1½hours), but but the exquisite Mosheshesford,isrough through East, fromBarkly The roadtoRhodes THERE&AWAYGETTING in theevenings. hearty countrybreakfasts. Meals are available Walkerbouts Inn Walkerbouts Tiffindell (2800m),around23kmupa Rhodes Hotel Rhodes The 051 /pop28,500 h Ben Macdhui Hiking Trail Hiking Ben Macdhui 6am-10pm) Book accommodationBook online at lonelyplanet.com Rhodes’ onlyhotel isacharm- Rhodes’

( % hasdwindledtoa few grubby The village campsite isin forinformation. (

% ( % 045-974 9305;www.rhodesvillage 9045-74 9290;www.walkerbouts 051-633 3567; www.ectourism spa complex lonelyplanet.com

(

( % Walkerbouts % 045-974 9290; 045-974 9305;

(admission Eastern Eastern isa a lake justoutsidetown,andinsideit’s all sitsinstunninggardensoverlookinghouse, rather grand,withbrassbedsandantique with breakfast US$24/43) lonelyplanet.com still retain feel –and the a subcontinental oflabour in the1860s–sections theprovince population numbered lessthan 5000. colonyin1856,when itsEuropean a separate againbecame Colonyin1845,Natal the Cape claiming itacolonyin1843.Briefly linked to ontheregion,300 years itssights pro- toset of Jesus. IttooktheBritishEmpire more than day mas Day1497,andnameditforthe natal Gama, whosighted thecoastline onChrist- explorerwas namedbyPortuguese Vasco da overBattled BritsandZulus,Natal byBoers, HISTORY portunities. unforgettable andexcellenthikingop- vistas Drakensberg features Range, awesomepeaks, the farwest,heritage-listed uKhahlamba- Wars.Anglo-Boer Theprovince’s borderin duringtheAnglo-Zuluand on theBattlefields the historyof theprovince wasthrashed out another realm: thehistoricheartlandwhere reserves. wild coastal boasts alluringnationalparksandisolated, tage are proudlydisplayed.Theregion also cultural sites, where Zuluculture andheri- and traditionalsettlements most evocative Elephant Coast,hometosomeof Africa’s Head northandyouenter Zululandandthe surfand sun. sea, wishing tosoakupthesand, coast attractlocalholiday-makers andvisitors Pietermaritzburg.tal, Thebeaches alongthis port of Durbananditsnearbyhistoriccapi- heartinthe scapes. Ithasitsmetropolitan as eclecticitscultures, peopleandland- rural andrustic, (KZN)isKwaZulu-Natal andready,Rough smartandsophisticated, KWAZULU-NATAL Grey St,nearthecornerof Somerset St. andlocalbusstopison 58). Theminibustaxi rant (ontheN6nearjunctionwithRte hound andIntercape stopatNobby’sRestau- Jo’burg run.Translux,Grey- toQueenstown furniture. Conville The introduction of Indian indentured Head northwest of Durban,andyouenter A dailyCitytobusstopshere onthe ( % 051-633 2203; www.conville-farm.com; s/d 051-633 2203;www.conville-farm.com; KWAZULU-NATAL ••History , anexquisite 1906farm- ors, wary of thecity’s increasing reputation for that were previously no-go areas), manyvisit- have added somesafer beach zonestothose World, casinoand thePointdevelopments a favourite spot(thepopular uShaka Marine down.Whilethebeachfront isstill sun goes have lostsomeshimmer, especiallywhenthe the worse forwearandthecentre’s streets subcontinent. sounds andscentsofing withthesights, the places andstreets of theIndianarea teem- a distinctive Asian twang,withthemarket- descent inthecountry,Durbanalsoboasts the largest concentrationof peopleof Indian throbs toadistinctlyAfricanbeat.Home ings andfascinatingArtDecoarchitecture, peppered colonialbuild- withsomegrandiose remains acitytrademarkandthecentre, stretch hotels of andsnackbars, high-rise shopping andculturalofferings. frequented asmuch foritsstylish cafés,good the pastfew years. More recently, Durbanis holiday.Butthishaschangedseaside over offering prepackaged alively, tacky, ifslightly known asoneof thecountry’sgreat escapes, Africa’s third-largest cityhasalwaysbeen along aswatheof butter-yellow South sand, ticated, sinfulandever-changing. Stretching Durban islike amaturingadolescent:sophis- % DURBAN ince’s official capital. when Pietermaritzburg wasnamedtheprov- of until2005, as capital theKwaZulu-Natal enjoyedjointstatus homelandcapital) Natal andPietermaritzburgcapital), (theformer From thattime,Ulundi(theformerKwaZulu alargeZulu comprises partof theprovince. of thefactthatZuluhomelandof Kwa- was renamed inrecognition KwaZulu-Natal, conflict: the until theUnionof SouthAfricaisfullof Witwatersrand. lines linked Durban’sportwiththebooming and thecolonythrived from1895,whentrain culture (mainlysugar)boosted development, of development subsequent commercialagri- the BritishandBoers. dom subjugated; andthetwowars between Anglo-Zulu Wars, whichtheZuluking- saw The beachfront, withitsmultikilometre Just after Province the1994elections,Natal Today, much looks of Durban’sseafront The recorded historyof theprovince up 031 /pop3.5million difaqane theBoer-Zulu andthe

495 SOUTH AFRICA AFRICA SOUTH ὈὈ ὈὈ ὈὈὈ 34 N 3 R N 2 23 R SOUTH AFRICA 496 50 (235km) To EastLondon R (269km) Johannesburg (339km) To Bloemfontein aux-Sources L ESOTH R103

KWAZULU-NATAL Glen NR

(3282m)

Rugged Qacha's Nek R712

Mont- W

Kestell E ASTRN

Mashai 34 T

i R Linak

Umtata l

g

s e R i v r o e Matatiele

C APE e l Greylingstad

i Vaal KWAZULU-NATAL Cornelia Libode k eng

61 39 e R547 R River Cathedral Peak R Ramatseliso's Frere Mount

Royal Natal

River Mokhotlong River Warden NP

ὈὈ ὄ ὄ Cedarville S TAE D (3004m)

F RE

r Oliviershoek Pass Coffee Bay

74

Ntlehyana a River Cobham R Thabana- Reserve

(3482m) k Woodstock R546

Harrismith R546 Sani Pass

Underberg e & BorderPost Bushman's Nek Franklin

R722

n

ubu Dam

R626 mv

s Vrede

Hluleka NR Umzi b River

e Collins Pass

Tabankulu Platberg Injasuti Dome

r 35 Standerton g R Mount Ayliff 74 Bergville R (3409m) Kokstad Drakensberg Park E ASTRN 56 R722

R

N U 3 R543 Castle Giant's

Van Reenen Flagstaff uKhahlamba- Port StJohns m

Memel C APE

Mkambati River Klip

Giant's Castle GR

t Himeville

Lusikisiki a m Chelmsford Majuba Umzimkulu

NR v National Park

M PUALNG u Newcastle Dam NR To Kruger

Hill n

(307km)

Mtentu River Mtentu Umtamvuna a 11 Rosetta N Bulwer 11 Madadeni

N Ὀ 34

N R 2 River Ladysmith R612 Bizana Colenso Harding 11 N 74 Donnybrook R 74 Glencoe R Midmar Volksrust Estcourt Charlestown 56 NR R Amersfoort

NR B 33

Mooi River a R Gorge NR Ixopo River Sundays l Mooi River e Oribi Edendale

Wild CoastSun l Weenen e s Port Edward Osizweni b Ntatabomvu R617 33 65

R Dundee e R Howick Mkomazi River Mkomazi Wakkerstroom Marina Beach Karkloof Tugela Richmond r 68 Albert Falls g R Ferry Dam NR Margate 33 R

Umzinto Pietermaritzburg

Sheepmoor Iswepe

Utrecht

Port Shepstone Buffalo

L Rorke's Paulpietersburg

o 1000 Hills

Drift Valley of v Pomeroy u

ὈὈ ὈὈ Hibberdene R

River Piet Retief

Kingsley Pongola River Pongola

i

Vryheid Tugela v Kranskop Greytown Pinetown

R543 e N

3

Kelso Umlazi r 34 Monument Blood River 74 R

R

N Trafalgar 2 U IsandIwana 33 RNatureReserve WA NR NP GR FR LEGEND Reserve Scottburgh R Marine

Nqutu

Umkomaas

N m

2 Hill Botha's v

Hibiscus o

Coast Amanzimtoti t

Babanango

Tongaat i Z ULAND

Wilderness Area National Park Game Reserve Forest Reserve River KwaDukuza 69 R Umhlali

Louwsburg

Durban KwaMashu (Stanger) River Umhlanga Rocks S WAZILND

Mandini White S O U T H C O A S T Ballito Nikwalini 34 ὈὈ ὈὈ Ithala R GR R618 Blythedale 60miles 100km 0 0 Ntendeka Darnall Melmoth

Ulundi N WA 34

Eshowe R 66 g

R

Tugela Mouth

w

Lusutfu River Lusutfu Imfolozi

34 a R Dolphin

Coast v Empangeni Gingindlovu

u 66 N m 2 R (Pongola) Phongolo

Nongoma a N O R T H C O A S T Imfolozi Park Hluhluwe- 34 R M OZABIQUE River Mkuze Mtubatuba R618 Golela Bend

Lavumisa uMhlatuze

O CEAN I NDA Big Ὀ River Ὀ Ὀ Ὀ Ὀ lonelyplanet.com M APUTLND Ndumo Richards Bay Jozini KwaMbonambi Mkhuze GR GR Greater StLucia M Wetland Park P 3 Red Hill St Lucia on ELEPHANT go

Lake l N a 2 Ri COAST ver N 2 Elephant St Lucia Estuary Tembe Park Sodwana Kosi Bay Bay NP (10km) To and stylisheateries. modation options,shoppingmalls,funkybars aresuburbs. These chock-a-block withaccom- themselves atthemore base and sand, sedate more crime, andseeking thansurf,sun,sea lonelyplanet.com set upcamp inanextraordinarily jumbled set of thousands Zuluhave trainstation, Berea South Africa. is missingfrommost commercialdistrictsin area. There isabustleandvibrancyhere that around Grey andVictoriaSts,istheIndian Smith Sts. 1km westof thebeach, straddlingWestand The CityHall andthecentre of townare about becomes oneof centralDurban’smainstreets. be avoided. Point Rdandadjoiningstreets shouldstill ofpark hasitsownpatrolledbeach; sections The area’s huge uShaka Marine Worldtheme south of Marine Pde,isslowlybeingrevived. derelict, thePoint,which runsalongthespit focalpoints.Formerly of Durban’sseaside Marine Pde,which frontsthebeach, isone Orientation ing, in1893,Mohandas Gandhi. name –manymore Indiansarrived, includ- systeminequitable –slave labourbyanother ers arrived toworkthecanefields.Despite the into the1850s. were Ridge stillelephantsroamingtheBerea there colonialportcity,although important the BritishandDurbanbeganitsgrowthasan wasannexedthem. ThenextyearNatal by until aBritishfrigate arrived anddislodged of Congella in1842. to Durbanbuttheywere defeated attheBattle troops stuck bytheirclaim.TheBritishsent by aBritishforcelater thatyear,buttheBoers claimedcontrol.Itwasreoccupiedthe Boers duringaZuluraid, Durban wasevacuated northwest of Durban.Thenextyear,after ensberg andfoundedPietermaritzburg, 80km anchored here in1497. thatVascoas 1685,andit’sthought daGama provided refuge forseafarers atleastasearly aroundwhich Durbanislocated, Bay, Natal History Near theIndian area, especially around On thewestern sideof thecitycentre, In 1860thefirst indentured Indianlabour- retainedThe Boers controlforamonth In 1837theVoortrekkers theDrak- crossed West St starts asamall,butfurtherwestit West Ststarts KWAZULU-NATAL ••Durban Rd) North ofthecitycentre. Rd) North Mon-Fri, to6pmSat&Sun)Inthecitycentre. Mon-Fri, Workshop, AliwalSt;perhrUS$3.40; Pde) NearFunworld onthebeach. Place; % The traumacentre chargesUS$80perconsultation. Rd,Berea) trauma centre 031-2041377;148SouthRidge American Express American FNBandNedbank. Bank, includeStandard ties acrossthecity. These There are bankswithATMs andchange facili- MONEY Doctor Travel Hospital Entabeni MEDICAL SERVICES café Internet café Internet options: ataboutUS$5.50perhour.start Other Most hostels offer internet access.Charges ACCESSINTERNET Police office policestation Main emergency General Ambulance EMERGENCY Information area. Lindelani, NtuzumaandtheGreater Inanda Manor,Cato Richmond Farm, KwaMashu, include ships surroundingthecity.These ban’s mainlyblackpopulationlives intown- retirement town.Afairproportionof Dur- coast toUmhlangaRocks,abigresort and eateries andhostels. rich withpubs,clubs, name,Berea), the same Morningside, Musgrave andthesuburbof the wealthiersuburbs(includingGreyville, ThisincorporatesBerea. thebeginningof and spreading beyond,isthearea knownas live inappallingconditions. Most of peopleare these near-destitute and onthecitycentre’s‘township’ right doorstep. Sat) Fortravel-related advice. Centre, 45OrdnanceRd; [email protected]; InternationalConvention h Centre; perhrUS$4.50; world, Shop323,Musgrave Suburbs have sprawledallthewayup Northwest of ataridge thecity,starting 031-301 5541; 11thfl,NedbankBldg, DurbanClub 9am-6pm) h 8.30am-4.30pm Mon-Fri, 9-11amSat); 8.30am-4.30pm Mon-Fri, ( (Map (Map pp502-3 ; % (Map (Map p498 ; (Map pp502-3 ; Mp pp502-3; (Map 10177)

Central Durban Mp p498; (Map (Map (Map pp502-3 ; ( % h % 031-361 0000) 8am-4pm Mon-Fri, tonoon 8am-4pm Mon-Fri, % % % 031-202 7733;Photo- % 031-368 3399; Marine 031-368 3399;Marine (Map (Map pp502-3 ; 031-305 6998;1stfl, 031-360 1122; h 031-204 1200,24hr % 8.30am-7pm 10111; Stanger Musgrave

497 SOUTH AFRICA AFRICA SOUTH SOUTH AFRICA 498 Valley of1000Hills(12km); Temple ofUnderstanding(8km); To Pinetown(8km); N 3 4 6 1 3 2 5 DURBAN 15 M University 2 M 8

of Natal

Sydenham SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES INFORMATION Umgeni RiverBirdPark...... Sun CoastCasino...... Sugar Terminal...... Rennies Bank...... (see9) Internet Café...... (see9) Entabeni Hospital...... American Express...... Western Fwy Western

South Ridge Rd Outer Ring Rd KWAZULU-NATAL ••Durban Nicholson

Springfield

Umgeni

Cedar Rd Overport ὈὈὈ Ὀ To DurbanInternational Brighton Beach(9km)

South CoastBeaches; Clark Rd Clark Umhlangane AC

Rd Rd Davenport Airport (16km);

N

10 2 M

Silverton

Ridge Rd Rd

Berea Rd Sth Rd Berea Vause Rd Can Berea Rd Nth Rd Berea Springfield

Berea

7 Park St al

Frere Rd

Rd Thomas Rd Thomas Alpine 8

Umbilo Rd Rd Inanda Rd Canal Mgeni Sea CowLake M 4

1

9 Clark Rd Clark

Sydney Rd To NorthCoast Mariott Rd Mariott Puntans Hill

May Old Botanic Currie Rd Moore Rd Moore Gardens Rd 5 4 3 2 1

don Rd North Ridge Rd Briardene

Ὀ Ὀ Essenwood Rd ὈὈὈ ὈὈὈ ὈὈὈ Gardens Botanic B3 C4 B6 A5 A5

Dutch Rd Musgrave Rd Greenwood Cowey Rd Wharf (100m) 15 M To Maydon 3 Park

ENTERTAINMENT EATING SLEEPING tr...... A5 Ster...... Cafe 1999...... Nomads Backpackers...... Blue Waters...... Flori

da Racecourse Avondale Rd Mitchell

὆὆ ὆὆ B Greyville Park Albert Morningside Course Durban

Station North Park Berea

Royal Train

Golf Epsom

Rd Innes Rd T

rem Co Argyle Rd Argyle Victo St Grey 9th as

t R102

at Butt Riverside Rd ria Rd Ave on ery Em Rd Dv ban ὈὈὈ Winde rmere km Rd 5 17

M en 12 Station Durban M

Greyville Goble Rd Train

Natal Bay Stamford Umgeni Canal

t Umgeni Old Fort Rd Rd Hill Rd

Riverside To KwaDukuza 9 8 7 6 Pier No1

Sports Ground) (Stanger)

ABSA Stadium

(75km) A5 A5 C5

Stanger (Kings Park St

Somtseu Northern Fwy NMR Ave

Rd

Rd 6 Athlone Northway 4

Smith St West St

Pine St

Dve Snell Pde Snell

ὈὈ ὈὈ ὈὈ ὈὈ Ὀ Ὀ Ὀ Ὀ

Point Rd Point Marine Pde Marine Oasis Beach Dunes Beach Bay of Plenty Battery Beach Country Club Beach

Beach North Tekweni Beach Erskine Laguna Beach Beach Beach Dairy

Blue Lagoon Pde M 4 Beach Beachwood Mangroves South Beach Addington Beach Nature Reserve The Point Map (pp502-3) See CentralDurban Beach Bells 1km 0.5miles 0 0 To GatewayMall(12km); lonelyplanet.com Umhlanga Rocks(14km); I NDA O CEAN KwaDukuza (Stanger); North CoastBeaches D North Pier Bluff The 2595; h 337 8099; Joe Kool’s; modation bookings fornationalparksacross thecountry. modation bookings Takes Junction) www.sanparks.org; 1stfl,Tourist accom- Junction) CoversDurban; Junction) 1stfl,Tourist 304 4934;www.durbanexperience.co.za; h % 5722; groundfl,333SmithSt); Rennies Bank Rennies Rd,Musgrave) Musgrave Centre lonelyplanet.com (and with agroup)ifpossible. Always catch tainment. a cab tonightspots town aspeoplehead tothesuburbsforenter- and centralDurbanbecomesaghost night) front are potentially dangerous (especially at nearby. informal settlements andthe also betaken aroundthetrainstation Shopping careWheel Centre. Extra should Avoid and areas aroundthe SouthBeach Point Rdandthearea behind theesplanade. areas. Particular care shouldbetaken around around thebeach esplanadeandsomecentral andpickpocketsMuggings are aproblem Dangers &Annoyances SAN Parks Board Wildlife KZN following: Tourist Junctioncomplex,includingthe There are variousbookingagencies inthe Junction Tourist promotional brochures. whole provinceandoffers asmorgasbordofreference and Dealswiththe Junction) groundfl,Tourist .zulu.org.za; Office Information Authority Tourism KwaZulu-Natal Africa Durban INFORMATION TOURIST restante service. Sts; postoffice Main POST reserve accommodation in KZN Wildlife parksandreserves. accommodationinKZN reserve Here youcan Junction) .kzn wildlife.com; 1stfl,Tourist old trainstation(builtin1894). informationcentre isinthe 9am-2pm Sat)Themaintourist 160 Pine St,cnrSoldiersWay; Many areas including thecentre andbeach- h 7am-9pm) In the arrivals hall; 7am-9pm) Inthearrivals 8.30am-4.30pm Mon-Fri, to11.30amSat) 8.30am-4.30pm Mon-Fri, Centre; 031-202 7833;Shop311,Level 3,Musgrave h Mp p498; (Map Mp pp502-3; (Map 8am-4.30pm Mon-Fri, tonoonSat)Hasaposte 8am-4.30pm Mon-Fri, h 8am-5pm Mon-Fri, to 4pm Sat & Sun) Next to to4pmSat&Sun)Next 8am-5pm Mon-Fri, uShaka MarineWorld uShaka (Map (Map pp502-3 ; 9am-6pm).

Central Durban Tourist Junction Tourist Junction % (Map (Map pp502-3 ; (Map (Map pp502-3 ; cnrWest&Gardiner Mp pp502-3; (Map KWAZULU-NATAL ••Durban 031-202 8733;FNBHouse,151 % Airport Airport 031-366 7516/7;www h (Map (Map pp502-3 ; % Musgrave Centre Mp pp502-3; (Map Mp pp502-3; (Map ( % 8am-4.30pm Mon-Fri, 8am-4.30pm Mon-Fri, Marine Pde 031-304 4934;www % % 031-408 1000; 031-304 4934; 031-304 4934; ( % % % Mp p498; (Map % 031-305 031-332 031- 031- lawn, deck chairs andbrollies. spottolieand bake.safe andpleasant Ithas .co.za; SnellPde) .co.za; Coast Beach well-attended restaurants. Thecasino’s features slotmachines, cinemasandsome Casino (plus US$1.40forahappysnap). regalia. A15-minute ridecostsabout US$3.40 the beachfront, manysportingexoticZulu GoldCoast. from FloridatoQueensland’s cities typicalofrants andnightclubs seaside hotels,the canyonof bars, high-rise restau- the road,mainlyonMarine Pde,youwillfind Smith Stnorthof uShaka. Onthe othersideof runningupthebeachist superhighway from and more. ing activitiesfromsurfinglessonstokayaking andabeachrides tomake featur- youseasick, two classyrestaurants, freshwater enough Africa’slargest stadium, dolphinarium, seal tion of sharks inthesouthern hemisphere, a world’s largest aquariums,thebiggest collec- theparkboastsoneofand uShaka the Beach), World,Wet’n’WildWorld areasseveral (Sea ing thesouthernbeachfront area. Dividedinto season) US$11/7.50/10; World Point; Wet’n’Wildadult/child/seniorUS$8/6/6,Sea AddingtonBeach,the 6675; www.ushakamarineworld.co.za; indicated byflags. always swiminpatrolledareas, which are Ifyoudotake theplunge,garish andtacky. restaurants andhecticholidayatmosphere are one. Tosome,itssmorgasbord of bars and thevenuesthrough themselves. casino anduShaka Marine Worldare accessed on thePoint.The‘private’ beaches nearthe of theUmgeni River) touShaka Marine World (atthemouth runfromBlueLagoon Beaches the requisite sharknets).The‘GoldenMile’ 6km of warm-water beaches (protected by sun, youhave aplaygroundof more than If youdipintothecity’ssummersurfand BEACHFRONT Sights have increasing been occurrences. a locked garage after dark–‘smashandgrabs’ In summer,rickshaws plytheirtradealong World Marine uShaka The glitzynouveau Art Deco of The But Durban’sbeachfront ain’tforevery- If youhave acar,make sure youparkitin isamassive newinvestment inimprov-

Mp p498 ; (Map Promenade

(admission US$0.70; ispopularamongthelocalsand h % 9am-6pm highseason,10am-5pmlow is the pedestrianised tour- isthepedestrianised 031-328 3000;www.suncoastcasino Mp pp502-3; (Map h 8.30am-5pm) % Sun Coast 031-368 isa

499

Sun SOUTH AFRICA AFRICA SOUTH SOUTH AFRICA Francis Farewell Sq. Upstairs isthe Church with its old vicarage and the1909 on WestStis historic ally subjugated blacks. onthe‘DurbanSystem’ bywhichtapes whites a permanentdisplaywithgoodoral history Administrationbuilding, has former Bantu free; pp502-3; plus Africananimals. impressive displayof birdsandinsects, stuffed h pp502-3; (Map buildingisthe the same works, especiallyZuluartsandcrafts.Alsoin ing collectionof contemporary SouthAfrican h pp502-3; (Map % Edwardian neobaroque Dominating thecitycentre istheopulent1910 CENTRE CITY unsafe atnight. a notoriouslydodgyarea andisdefinitely Rd, leadingdowntothePoint,runsthrough to widenthechannel mouthin2007.Point the harbourandocean;there are plans Point isanoldarea onaspitof landbetween at thesouthernendof thebeachfront. The There are restaurants several atthePoint, Africa (andtheninthbusiestinworld). with alively trans-Africa theme. music, andabar-restaurant allcutthrough and craftshops, artists’ studios,occasionallive bohemian arts centre housingupmarket art and atheatre. decent eateries, boat-charter outfits,shops hip waterside withaclutch development, of www.wilsonswharf.co.za) pp502-3; sugar trade. of intotheformerimportance theinsight Mon-Thu, 8.30am, 10am &11amFri) sion US$1.80/90; p498; (Map the toria Embankment,contains western sideof theharbourandsouthof Vic- Maydon Wharf,which runsalongthesouth- EMBANKMENT VICTORIA 500 Durban’s BAT Centre A littlefurthernorth, The excellent On theeastern sideof themainpostoffice 8.30am-4pm Mon-Sat,11am-4pmSun) 8.30am-4pm Mon-Sat,11am-4pmSun) 031-311 2137;SmithSt) h KWAZULU-NATAL ••Durban (Map pp502–3 ). (Map 8.30am-4pm Mon-Sat,11am-4pmSun) % % 031-311 2237;130OrdinanceRd;admission % %

Mp p523; aiie Pl) Maritime pp502-3; (Map 031-365 8153; 51 Maydon Rd;adult/conces- 031-365 8153;51Maydon harbour h 031-311 2256;CityHall;admissionfree; 031-311 2264;CityHall;admissionfree; Church Square Church Square tours 8.30am,10am,11.30am&2pm KwaMuhle Museum KwaMuhle isthebusiestinSouthern . Infrontof thehallis Natural ScienceMuseum CityHall Wilson’s Wharf Wilson’s Wharf isareasonably , which offers an Mp pp502–3), (Map , anoutstand- isacolourful , boastingan

Sugar Terminal Mp pp502-3; (Map Art Gallery Art , inthe St Paul’s

(Map (Map (Map (Map

ahead foraguidedtour. the largest inthesouthernhemisphere; call Riverside Rd;adult/child US$2.80/2; Riverside St andNMRAve. Rd,which Stanger runsbetween on Somtseu Africa. It’sawayfromthemainIndianarea, photographers. parties galore forthe withtheirpetals pose ant placetowander. Onweekends localbridal Apr) to5.45pm16Sep-15 5.15pm 16Apr-15Sep, % The 20-hectare MORNINGSIDE&BEREA GREYVILLE, h on Friday. noonand2pm between Muslim shopsclose tion inthearea, butwatch yourwallet.Most from acrossAsia. It’sthemaintouristattrac- ence, withmore wares selling than160stalls shoppingexperi- rip-roaring, subcontinental h St Market manuel Cathedral. Em- RdneartheCatholic St andCathedral pp502–3 Grey) isnexttothemosquebetween cnr Queen&Grey Sts; The big AREA INDIAN pp502-3; ters acrossDurban.The bar (from US$19). to sites aroundDurbanover theweekend 251PointRd) .underwaterworld.co.za; World Underwater DIVING &FISHING Activities the centre of Chatsworth. towards Chatsworth turn-off andturn right then branch off totheN2south.Take the Follow theN3towardsPietermaritzburg and Krishna temple in thesouthernhemisphere. 8km westof Durban,isthe biggest Hare tieedanta SamiRd; bird speciesinlush vegetation andaviaries. manyAfrican from thethrong.Youcansee Umgeni River, makes forarelaxing escape BirdPark Umgeni River NORTH &WESTDURBAN Alayam Hindu TempleAlayam Hindu At thewestern endof VictoriaSt, Dozens of outfitsoffer sport-fishing char- Temple ofUnderstanding 031-309 1170;SydenhamRd;admissionfree; 7am-6pm) 6am-6pm Mon-Sat,to4pmSun) % Juma Mosque

Mp pp502-3; (Map 084-701 6912; 49 Milne St;per dayfromUS$400) 084-701 6912; 49Milne istheoldestandbiggest inSouth h h Mp pp502-3; (Map

Botanic Gardens 10am-1pm &4-8pm) 9am-4pm Mon-Fri, to11amSat) 9am-4pm Mon-Fri, Mp pp502-3; (Map

Mp p498; (Map %

(Map (Map pp502-3 ; SomtseuRd; Madrassa Arcade Madrassa 031-306 4021, Victoria St; 031-306 4021,Victoria ( % h offers atypically % organises dives Cool Runnings lonelyplanet.com 031-403 3328;Bhak- 9am-5pm) 031-332 5820;www % %

Mp pp502-3; (Map 031-579 4600; 031-306 0026; isapleas- , situated h , onthe Victoria (Map 7.30am- (Map (Map

is Centre, North Beach; Centre, North Book accommodationBook online at lonelyplanet.com .paradehotel.co.za; 191 Marine Pde;s/dwithbreakfast 191Marine .paradehotel.co.za; Surf Zone Surf surfing beaches withanynumberof breaks. For surfers, Durbanhasamultitudeof good SURFING experience. offers alaid-back, distinctlyJamaican-style lonelyplanet.com chairs. have balconies,quilted bedheads, andvelvet Blue Waters isaclassichotel. Alltherooms away fromthemadding Promenadecrowd, pa 175SnellPde;s/dwithbreakfastwa tershotel.co.za; US$88/97; room. ballroom. Requestasea-facing ing ArtDecodiningroomresembles a1950s furniture mattresses, butit’scharm- andsaggy dowdyarray of with aslightly 1970ssalesroom US$44/59; Parade Hotel BEACHFRONT the beachfront options. modation inthesuburbsisbetter valuethan alone,accom- Durban forthesunandsand and northwestern suburbs.Unlessyouare in Durban’s accommodationisinthewestern hotel-lined beachfront promenade,much of andbookonline. browse www.bookabedahead.co.za, allowsyouto Durban Africa’s accommodationwebsite, Sleeping arranged fromWilson’sWharf. andcharter otherboat tripscanbe Several & 1pm) % The luxuryyacht CRUISES for Tugela andfromUS$47forUmkomaas). .co.za) rapids. GradeII-IV April, whenyoucanripthrough water rafting, especiallyfromNovember to The Umkomaasoffers someof thebestwhite- River are The UmkomaasRiver Tugela andmighty WHITE-WATER RAFTING day) andoffers lessons(US$24perhour). Sun) Blue Waters the Despite whatyouthinkwhensee 032-943 1118;DurbanYacht Harbour;US$20;tours10am rents outboards(US$9.50/14perhalf/full offers raftingonbothrivers (from US$84 cruises dolphinwaterscruises forthree hours. ) Atthenorthernend of thebeachfront 180° Adventures a

Mp pp502-3; (Map the )

TheParade Hotel isabitold, rafting places in KwaZulu-Natal. raftingplacesinKwaZulu-Natal. Mp pp502-3; (Map

Mp p498; (Map h KWAZULU-NATAL ••Durban 9am-5pm Mon-Sat,8am-5pmSat& African Queen African %

( % % 031-368 5818; Ocean Sports 031-368 5818;OceanSports % 031-368 3877;www.blue 031-566 4955;www.180 031-337 4565;www

Mp pp502-3; (Map

Housed in astylish terracotta-colouredHoused 1950s with shared bathroom& breakfast US$12/24/34; 6291; www.gibela.co.za; 119NinthAve, Morningside; dm/s/d willhelpyouorganise outings. staff It’s outonalimbinterms of locationbutthe standards. its friendly,informalstyleandhigh this cosyhide,butitpullsinthepunters with There’s notmuch roomtoswingahippoin dm/s/d withshared bathroomUS$10/16/24; Rd,Berea; 2Jesmond 207 4366;www.hippohide.co.za; Lodge&Backpackers Hide Hippo MORNINGSIDE &BEREA GREYVILLE, downstairs bar. ellers andlocalmovers-and-shakers fillingthe exclusive hotel, withcrowdsof businesstrav- modern behemoth is arguably Durban’smost US$245; 336 8100;www.hilton.com;12WalnutSt;rwithbreakfast and NelsonMandela. and swankiestofferings andhashosted royalty ing CityHall isoneof thecity’smosthistorical pai 267SmithSt;s/dwithbreakfast.theroyal.co.za; US$220/292; littlecharm. though service This secure placeoffers motel stylingandslick Rds;s/dUS$75/93; &OldFort cnrBrickhill lodge.co.za; City Lodge CENTRE CITY ian architecture. impressive jumbleof VictorianandEdward- colonial-era landmarks,DurbanManor isan Club, oneof thecity’sfinestandmostopulent US$52/77; Embankment;s/dwithbreakfast 366 0701;93-96Victoria Durban Manor EMBANKMENT VICTORIA with pipedmusictomatch. with fresh-polish smellsandfull-ondécor front hotels, thisisclassicandcomfortable, Pde; s/dUS$112/125; 149Marine 337 3681;www.proteahotels.com/edwarddurban; and uncluttered rooms. school of architecture, withmodernishdécor ings, thiscomesfromthesteel-and-glass One of SouthernSun’sfourbeachfront offer- Pde;s/dwithbreakfast US$95/115; Marine pp502-3; Gibela Backpackers Lodge Gibela Backpackers International Durban Hilton Royal Hotel Hotel Protea Parade –Marine Court Southern SunGarden pais % pa

) Thisfive-star institutionoverlook- Mp pp502-3; (Map 031-337 3341;www.southernsun.com;167

Mp pp502-3; (Map

Mp pp502-3; (Map Edward Durban ) Housed intheformerDurban Housed pais Glitzyandchic, thisslick, ) % % Mp pp424-5; (Map

031-332 1447;www.city % Mp pp502-3; (Map Mp pp502-3; (Map

031-366 0700;fax031- Kingof thesea- )

031-333 6000;www Mp p505; (Map pais pis % pi % % % 031-303 pa 501 (Map (Map 031-

031- 031- ) )

)

) SOUTH AFRICA AFRICA SOUTH ὈὈ ὈὈ ὈὈ ὈὈ ὈὈ

SOUTH AFRICA

502

Berea South CoastBeaches Airport (18km); To DurbanInternational Rd Lancers Rd Old Dutch Rd 4 6 1 3 2 5

CENTRAL DURBAN 15 Canongate Rd Canongate M Gardens Botanic

Warwick Ave 12 INFORMATION Travel Doctor...... Tourist Junction...... Reservations...... (see 7) South AfricanParks Rennies Bank...... Police Office...... Mozambican Consulate...... Main PostOffice...... Main PoliceStation...... KZN Wildlife...... (see7) InformationOffice...... (see7) KwaZulu-Natal TourismAuthority Durban Africa...... (see19) Durban Africa...... (see7) American Express...... (78km) (N3) Pietermaritzburg To Pinetown(8km)(N3); KWAZULU-NATAL ••CentralDurban

Alexan ὈὈὈὈὈὈ ὈὈὈὈὈὈ dra Rd Sydenham

42 St Market Rd Racecourse Greyville A Albert Park ὆὆὆὆ ὆὆὆὆ ὆὆὆὆ ὆὆὆὆ ὆὆὆὆

Berea Train Centenary Rd Station

Smith St

St Georges St

St Andrews St Theatre La Theatre Brook St

West St

Carlisle St Cemetery

Russell St Russell Eilat Viaduct Eilat Dart

Victoria Embankment nell

Emmanuel St Cross

Cres Cathedral

21 St Russell Russell St 20 St Cross

Fountain La

Beatrice St Lorne St 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Alice St St Grey Royal Durban D2 C3 C4 F3 C3 C3 D1 C4 Golf Course

14

16 DLI Ave DLI Grey St Grey Prince Edward St

Leopold St Broad St Broad Victoria St B

Natural Science Museum...... (see13) Madrassa Arcade...... KwaMuhle Museum...... Juma Mosque...... Cool Runnings...... (see 34) City Hall...... Church Square...... (see17) Botanic Gardens...... BAT Centre...... (see36) Art Gallery...... (see13) Alayam HinduTemple...... African Queen...... US Consulate...... (see6) UK Consulate...... SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES

Queen St

Commercial

Epsom Rd Epsom

Newmarket St Newmarket Albert

Field

St Ascot St Ascot Mitchell Rd Albert St Albert

To Morningside(1.5km);

Fynn St Fynn Um

geni North St Rd Rd Salmon St Salmon Mitchell Park(2km) Fenton St Fenton R102 First Ave

May St 43

31 Umgeni Rd Albert

Field 10 St

Pine St Mark La Mark

6 Soldiers Way Soldiers

Smith St Durban Station 19 Train Natal Bay 24 16 15 14 13 12 11 10 C 9

4

B3 C2 B3 C4 A1 D1 C5 C4 Ὀ Ὀ Ὀ Ὀ Gardiner St Gardiner 3 To Greyville 17 7 Parade...... Southern SunGardenCourt -Marine Royal Hotel...... Protea HotelEdwardDurban...... Parade Hotel...... Durban Manor...... Durban HiltonInternational...... City Lodge...... Wilson's Wharf...... Victoria StMarket...... uShaka MarineWorld...... Underwater World...... Surf Zone...... (see35) St Paul'sChurch...... SLEEPING (1.5km) 15 33 27 44

T 41 a y Medwood 13 l Gardens o

r

Ordnance Rd

C 12 M 38

r

e

Commercial Rd Albany Gve Albany s

NMR Ave NMR 40 St Aliwal

Victoria

Exhibition Aliwal St Aliwal Kingsmead Durban Centre Ground Cricket

ὈὈ ὈὈ ὈὈ Walnut St Walnut lonelyplanet.com

Old Fort Rd Embankment Rocks (20km); To Umhlanga 23 International

Somtseu St Convention D Durban 36 Centre Cato Sq 32 11 West St

39 8 Mills La Mills

28 27 26 25 24 23 22 21 20 19 18 17

Stanger

Kitchener Stanger 2

M St St 4

F3 C4 F3 E3 C4 D3 E2 B5 B3 F5 F5 C3 St Alfred Prince Stanger St Stanger Ὀ Ὀ ὈὈ ὈὈ ὈὈ

lonelyplanet.com Cato St Cato Morrison St

Park Hoy Kearsney

ὈὈ ὈὈ ὈὈ ὈὈ ὈὈ ὈὈ ὈὈ 22 John Milne Rd Milne John Creek St Creek

34 Winder St Pine St Pickering St Rd Roy Fairport Market

Hunter St Brickhill Rd Brickhill Rd Brickhill

Palmer St

Milne St

Bay Tce Mazeppa St Mazeppa Sol Harris Cres E

Fisher St Pavilion Gull St

Tce

Playfair Rd

Quayside Rd Quayside Point Rd Point Victoria KWAZULU-NATAL ••CentralDurban

Smith St Park

Tyzack St Shamr Boscombe

Rochester St

Thistle Snell Pde

Trafalgar St

ὈὈὈ ὈὈὈ ὈὈὈὈ Ὀ La St Gillespie Point Rd Point La Sea View St

29 25

o c k

Brighton Masonic Rd

Rutherford St 28

Grenville Beatty

Marine Pde Marine 35 37 Pde Marine 26

Sturdee 5 Bay ofPlenty Addington Hospital North Beach 18 Somtseu Rd Children's Beach Bay ofPlenty Hospital

North Beach

Dairy Beach Pier Prince St Prince Pier Dairy Beach Pier F

Bell St Pier Erskine Tce Erskine New Pier

Wedge Quayside Rd Quayside

Beach Pier South Point Rd Point 19 Addington

Beach Escombe Ter Escombe O CEAN I NDA The Point G Translux...... (see 41) SA Roadlink...... (see41) Main LocalBusTerminal...... Luxliner...... (see 41) Long-Distance MinibusTaxis...... Long-Distance MinibusTaxis...... Intercape...... (see 41) Greyhound...... Eldo Coaches...... (see41) Baz Bus...... (see7) Airport ShuttleStop...... Tilt...... Natal Playhouse...... Club 330...... BAT Centre...... Rivets...... (see 23) Joe Kool's...... Cool Runnings...... Zack's...... (see 21) Workshop...... Ulundi...... (see 27) Trans-Africa Express...... (see36) Royal Carvery...... (see27) Roma RevolvingRestaurant...... New CafeFish...... Famous FishCo...... Beach Cafe...... TRANSPORT ENTERTAINMENT DRINKING EATING 30 0 0 H 44 43 42 41 40 39 38 37 36 35 34 33 32 31 30 29 D4 C5 G6 E1 E3 C3 D4 F5 D4 F2 C1 D4 D3 C3 C1 A3 0.2 mile 400 m

503

4 6 1 3 2 5 SOUTH AFRICA AFRICA SOUTH SOUTH AFRICA This reliable fishrestaurant issomethingof a and onethatlikes to party.Ifthepoolor andneat,yetrelaxedganised kindof joint, hotel was a house ofhotel wasahouse ill-repute. Nowadaysit’s 504 sea andcargo ships. sea Durban institution, witha dreamy viewof the Battery, thePoint;mains US$10-26; deck, overlooking thebeach andlife guards. or chill onthe restaurant outwithacocktail sun inalounge (hire perdayUS$3.40), Durbs’ hotnewbeach hang-out.Soakupthe Plenty Beach;mainsUS$3.50-6; restaurants. passable of thebeachfrontSeveral some hotels house spread of burgers, pizzaandcandyfloss. pressed tofindmuch more thantheusual cheap andcheerful diners, you’llbehard- While thebeachfront ischock-a-block with BEACHFRONT &THEPOINT Eating one of thebestinarea. rooms have balconies,andtherestaurant is with small-scalehomecomforts.Thecosy tive boutiquehotel balancescolonialglamour able eatinganddrinkingquarter, thisattrac- the throbbingheartof Durban’smostfashion- Rd;s/dUS$111/158; 101Florida .co.za; oils andbreakfast court. initssmallfountain its plush Moroccaninteriors, aromatherapy good tradewiththebeautifulpeoplewhoenjoy Bohemia team, Bag whodo owned bytheBean s/d US$54/81; .beanbagbohemia.co.za; 47/49CampbellAve, Morningside; among waterbabies. poolsideroomispopular down. Theseparate apartmentsbothupstairs and self-contained sion isconfigured intovariouscomfortable with breakfast US$40/61; Rd,Morningside;s/d 116Madeline www.madeline.co.za; puccino bars of theMusgrave Centre. you’re ajumpawayfromthecinemasandcap- hostel’s barisnotyourthing,then ‘Bambooza’ d with/withoutbathroomUS$27/22; 70EssenwoodRd,Berea;www.durban.co.za/nomads; dmUS$8, a highlight. secure location.Thedeliciousbreakfasts are tasteful ethnicdécorandafriendlyfeel ina building withaTuscanfeel, thisplacehas La Bordello Famous Fish Co Beach Cafe Quarters Madeline Grove B&B Grove Madeline Nomads Backpackers KWAZULU-NATAL ••Durban i

Mp p505; (Map Mp pp502-3 ; (Map

) Informertimes,thisboutique Mp p505; (Map Mp pp502-3 ; (Map

% ps

Mp p505; (Map Mp p498; (Map 031-303 5246;ceres@threecities h % % ) h Thislarge man- breakfast, lunch&dinner) % pis 031-309 6019;www 082-762 9223;Bayof pa lunch &dinner; 031-368 1060; King’s 031-368 1060;King’s % % 031-303 5425; 031-202 9709; Right in Right ) Anor- ) a

) few central restaurants surviving inDurban, few centralrestaurants surviving dinner) curry oralambdish;andthe downstairs café-bar. the artisticallyhiprestaurant (upstairs) and chandeliersthe mosaics, andgothicdécorof mains US$7-13; Embankment; 332 3337;32ndfl,JohnRossHouse,Victoria the Workshop(Map pp502–3 ). ortryoneofsausages, thefastfoodchains at there’s usuallysomeonewithabraaicooking tonearthemainpostoffice whereyour nose bunny chow ( p500 ) have goodIndiansnacksincluding Takeaway placesaroundVictoriaStMarket CENTRE CITY dishes asappealingitsviews. seafood uniquely designedrestaurant serves & dinner) Yacht Embankment;mainsUS$6-27; Mole,Victoria to Morocco. taste-tempting mealsfromMadagascar serves terrace viewsover thedocks,thisrestaurant h 1st fl,BAT Embankment; mainsUS$3.80-13; Centre, Victoria air.sea bistro fare washed downwithablastof fresh upgood this stylish (chain) eatery serves lunch &dinner; Embankment;mainsUS$3.60-10; Victoria Zack’s EMBANKMENT VICTORIA fusion-style tucker inbar-like surrounds. international diner-come-cocktail barserves mere Rd;mainsUS$4-13; 18 Windermere Rd;mainsUS$4-10; for ameal. mere Rdsare foraging thebestplacestostart The adjoiningarteries of FloridaandWinder- MORNINGSIDE&BEREA GREYVILLE, lunch and dinner. (Map pp502-3 ; buffet US$17) US$5-8) Sundays): rants (closed 267SmithSt) .co.za; stunning viewsover Durban. this reasonably eatery pricedItalian offers Cat Man Du Bean BagBohemia The Restaurant Roma Revolving Fish New Cafe Express Trans-Africa lunch &dinner) Thefoodandflavours are ascreative as

is the place to sample aBombayfish istheplacetosample (Map pp502-3 ; pp502-3; (Map Looking like anupside-downship, this Royal Hotel Book accommodationBook online at lonelyplanet.com h

. Fordaytimemunchies follow a Mp p505; (Map Upstairs at the Bat Centre, with Centre, Upstairs attheBat lunch &dinner; has several renownedhas several restau-

) Mp pp502-3; (Map Offering café-styledining, Offering %

( h %

Mp pp502-3; (Map

Mp p505; (Map 031-305 1677; Wilson’s Wharf, 031-305 1677;Wilson’sWharf, % lunch &dinner) 031-333 6000;www.theroyal has a buffet forboth has abuffet Ulundi 031-312 7893;411Winder-

na Mp pp502-3; (Map

h % lonelyplanet.com Mp p523; mains pp502-3; (Map

% breakfast, lunch& 031-305 5062;31 % This groovy Royal Carvery Oneof the ) h 031-309 6019; 031-332 0804; breakfast, h % lunch 031-

heading ontoMozambique (orPortugalfor mains US$6-18; lonelyplanet.com Rd; mainsUS$8-12; flavours of Iberia. that matter), thisisagreat the place tosample sotto (US$7/11). ri- Try thecrispyroastduckonvanilla-seed which comesin‘bitparts’–‘titbit’and‘bigbit’. creativebuzzing restaurant fusionfood serves The Rd,Berea; mainsUS$6-13; Centre, Silverton well catered for. wine (US$11)andvegetarians are extremely likeCarnivores might thekudufilletinred 4 1 3 2 Alpine GREYVILLE, MORNINGSIDE&BEREA Butcher Boys 1999 Cafe A Gruta placetoeatfortrendy Durbanites. This

Jesmond Rd South 2 DRINKING EATING SLEEPING il h u'...... D1 Billy theBum's...... Hippo HideLodge& Gibela BackpackersLodge...... Zeta Bar...... Cat ManDu...... Butcher Boys...... Bean BagBohemia...... (see3) A Gruta...... Quarters...... Madeline GroveB&B...... La Bordello...... Backpackers......

Mp p505; (Map AC

h Ridge Rd Mp p498; (Map

Mp p505; (Map

lunch &dinner; KWAZULU-NATAL ••Durban h

Coronation Rd Coronation % Rd Sydenham lunch &dinner; % 031-312 8675; 200C Florida Rd; 031-312 8675;200CFlorida

% 031-202 3406; Silvervause 031-202 3406;Silvervause Nelson 10 031-312 8248; 170 Florida 031-312 8248; 170Florida 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1

a

C3 C3 D2 C3 C3 D4 C3 D4 A4 Nononti Ave Nononti

Waverton

) Ave Rorvik Kinnord Pl Kinnord a

If you’re not Essenwood h Norfolk Rd Norfolk Gardens

Carleton

Ros

Ridge Rd B ) Rd Marriott Earl Haig

lunch &dinner) A stylish

ebank Dublin ὈὈ ὈὈ

Musgrave Guildford Jameson Park North Ridge Rd M 8 Valley View

Shepstone Springfield Heath

Esselmont Ave Montpelier Rd Montpelier Nimmo bohemian openuntil6am. feel and itstays St) Milne bar isreliablycocktail raucous. Durban’s upwardly mobile,thissuburban Windermere Rd,Morningside) lizard’s favourite. lines provide thebackdrop forthislounge soft Voluptuous red-plush andcurvy seats The bestoptionsare foundinthesuburbs. Drinking ‘in’ group. Boys ispopularwithbusiness peopleandthe ‘steak asyoulike it’,Butcher joint serving Currie Rd Mitchell Park Cool Runnings Billy theBum’s Zeta Bar Zeta Twelth Tenth Ave

Clarence Rd Clarence Medeira

Ὀ Eleventh Ὀ ὈὈ ὈὈ Greyville Racecourse Ninth Ave

This (in)famous place has a truly Rasta This(in)famous placehas a trulyRasta Cowey Rd Avondale Rd

Seventh Ave 10

Argyle Rd Argyle Mp p505; (Map Royal Durban Golf Course

Sixth Lne 1 Hollander

Eastbourne Dve Tremanton

Fifth Ave Burman Bush Mitch Mentone Lambert Farrell

Mp pp502-3 ; (Map

Fourth Lne Rd Florida

Mp p505; (Map ell

6 Innes Rd

% Cres Sixth Madeline Rd Madeline 4 7 Gordon Morningside

Attractingacrowdof

St Kolling

031-312 9436; 258 Florida Rd) 031-312 9436;258Florida Mitchell Rd Daly Rd Daly

5 Seventh Rd Rosetta 400m 0.2miles 0 0

La Ninth

St Marys St Second Lennox Rd Lennox

3 Ave Eighth

% Ave

%

Steel Kent Rd Kent

031-303 1988;504 Bishop Rapson 031-368 5604;49 D

McKenzie 8 Argyle Rd Argyle Stanford Windermere Rd

Hill Rd Greyville

Silver Churchill Umgeni Rd Harvey Larch

9

Percy Osborne Rd Keswick Powell Goble 505 SOUTH AFRICA AFRICA SOUTH SOUTH AFRICA place shares DJswiththeHilton’s Rivets bar. centre, Rainbow isconsideredcentre, thecentre Rainbow of Mall .sterkinekor.com; Rd); Centre, Musgrave Musgrave Clubbing inapoint-blank In-your-face sense. tochunky bass. house from deep Friday isoften the bigone,withqualitymusic Tilt NIGHTCLUBS on thefirst orlastSundayof themonth. haunt. Itfeatures concertsandheadlineacts the jazzsceneandstillpreferred local 23 StanfieldLane) and top-flight jazzmusicians. regularand Sundayevenings, drumcircles, venue features fromDJsonFriday everything of Durban’smore interesting haunts,this Embankment) Pl,Victoria .batcentre.co.za; 45Maritime performances intheCityHall. esting springconcertprogrammewithweekly 9438; www.kznpo.co.za) Orchestra Philharmonic KwaZulu-Natal MUSIC LIVE Ster Imax There are cinemasinallof themajor malls: CINEMAS to 1pmSat). 1st fl,theWorkshop,CommercialRd; through to Shakespeare performances,canbebooked Many Sharks fromtheNatal events, games Entertainment cocktails. a contingent of andpricey thebeautifulset boasts Thursday chichi jazznights, décor, a barinthegutsof theHiltontobe,Rivets International, 12WalnutSt) ispartynight. Sunday night dancemusicandfeisty crowds. screen TV, of big- spot cooksupacocktail coldbeer, for anydayonthebeach, thisvenerable night- Beach) Pde,North Marine cab –thisis Come late asitfillsupafter 11pmandcatch a 506 Big-screen action in the Gateway Mall. intheGateway Big-screen action Joe Kool’s Rainbow BAT Centre Club 330 Rivets Mp pp502-3; (Map (

% Musgrave Centre ( % KWAZULU-NATAL ••Durban 031-566 3222; Gateway Mall, Umhlanga Ridge) UmhlangaRidge) Mall, 031-566 3222;Gateway

Mp pp502-3; (Map Computicket 031-566 4415; Gateway Mall, Umhlanga Ridge) UmhlangaRidge) Mall, 031-566 4415;Gateway

(Map (Map pp502-3 330PointRd) ; www.330.co.za; Restaurant &JazzClub Restaurant

not (Map pp502-3 ; pp502-3; (Map InPinetown,8kmwestof the Mp pp502-3; (Map % anarea towalkaround. Mp p498; (Map Theorchestra hasaninter- 031-306 9356;11WalnutRd) The inevitable finish line Theinevitable As glossyasyou’dexpect Mp pp502-3; (Map

% 031-336 8100; Durban Hilton 031-336 8100;DurbanHilton % % % h 031-332 9697;Lower 0860-300 222;www 031-332 0451;www (

% 9am-5pm Mon-Fri, 9am-5pm Mon-Fri, % 031-702 9161;

083-915 8000; ( % Gateway 031-369 One This

.playhousecompany.com; SmithSt) .greyhound.co.za) Cape Town (US$77) and Port Elizabeth(US$68). Cape Town(US$77)andPort competitor to1time,itlinksDurbanwithJo’burg(US$61), South African Airways South African Airlink South African Nationwide Air Kulula 1time agents. and maycostlessthanpricesquoted bytravel are forthecheapest available one-wayfares main centres. Pricesquoted (internet fares) airlines linkDurbanwithSouthAfrica’sother off theN2,16kmsouthof thecity.Several Airport Durban International AIR &Away There Getting drama andmusicmostnights. Hall, Durban’scentraltheatre hasdance, Natal Playhouse THEATRE walk around. you’rewhat level on. Thisisnotanarea to full-on rave sceneandthrobcity,depending US$30, eight hours), Cape Town (US$63,22 hours),US$30, eight Cape (US$1.40, 2½hours),Bay Jo’burg (US$26to hours).eight three dailytoJo’burg buses (US$18toUS$23, bus companieshave here: theiroffices not Umgeni Rd.Thefollowinglong-distance pp502–3 ). It’ssafest toenter fromNMRAve, (Map neartheDurban trainstation stations the timeperiod. any direction andasoften asyoulike within allowyoutotravel(US$115/220) passes in next toDurbanAfrica. Theseven/14-day h % The popularanduseful BUS Elizabeth. Town (US$80)andPort FliesatleastoncedailytoJo’burg(US$60),Cape .co.za) Bloemfontein (US$201)andNelspruit(US$260). Elizabeth(US$57), Fliesdailyto Port www.saairlink.co.za) (US$195), George (US$200) andNelspruit(US$103). (US$195), George Elizabeth(US$128),EastLondonCapeTown Port .flysaa.com) FliesatleastoncedailytoJo’burg(US$105), airline offering somegreatairline offering dealstoJo’burg(US$41). Greyhound leave buses Long-distance fromthebus Eldo Coaches 8.30am-4.30pm Mon-Fri, tonoonSat) 8.30am-4.30pm Mon-Fri, Junction; 031-304 9099;www.bazbus.com; 1stfl,Tourist ( ( % % 0861-345 345; www.1time.co.za) A no-frills Ano-frills 0861-345 345;www.1time.co.za) 0861-585 852; www.kulula.com) A no-frills Ano-frills 0861-585 852;www.kulula.com) (Map (Map pp502-3 ; ( has daily buses toRichards hasdailybuses

% Mp pp502-3; (Map Mp pp502-3; (Map 0861-737 737;www.nationwideair (SAAirlink; (SAA; % % Baz Bus Opposite theCity % %

( % % 031-978 1111;www 083-915 9000;www lonelyplanet.com 031-369 9444;www 031-307 3363) 011-978 1111; has an office hasanoffice 031-451 6666)

Mp pp502-3; (Map has is lux.co.za) aboutcars.com) .co.za) Hassomereasonable.co.za) deals. Newcastle (US$23,5½hours). (US$19,fourhours) and hours), Ladysmith (US$12, onehour),Estcourt(US$13,2½ and PortShepstone (US$16,1½hours). to 27hours), PortElizabeth(US$44,15hours) lonelyplanet.com is huge. Use the NMR Ave entrance, 1stlevel. Durban train station TRAIN care shouldbetaken ifentering them. ranksareminibus taxis’ unsafe andextreme it costsUS$18.Theareas inandaroundthe (Map train station Berea pp502–3 ). ToJo’burg Coast region leave of Cape Eastern fromthe running mainlytothesouthcoastand theWild (Mapto thetrainstation pp502–3 ). Others the streets opposite theUmgeni Rdentrance leave taxis Some long-distance from stopsin TAXI MINIBUS Imperial Rental Comet Car Budget Avis Around-about Cars attheairport: offices Most major car-rental companiesalsohave CAR across thecountry. partnership withTranslux,gotodestinations operated27 hours). in Citytobuses, Town(US$63, hours)US$28, eight andCape hours). London;US$40,15 (via MthathaandEast Jo’burg (US$26,6½hours) andPortElizabeth US$62,23hours),Town (viaBloemfontein; .saroadlink.co.za) hours) andPretoria (US$24,ninehours). national AirportandPark (US$24,8½ Station to Margate (US$11,2½hours), Jo’burg Inter- .intercity.co.za) US$31, 15hours). US$47, 15½hours) andMaputo (viaJo’burg; (US$66, 23hours), Gaborone(viaJo’burg; Town hours),(US$26 toUS$30,eight Cape .intercape.co.za) SA Roadlink Luxliner Intercape Translux alsorundailytoPietermaritzburgBuses ( % ( has daily buses toJo’burg hasdailybuses (US$27to % ( 031-304 1741,086-102111) %

Mp pp502-3; (Map 086-101 6622) has daily services fromDurban hasdailyservices

Mp pp502-3; (Map has several daily buses toJo’burg dailybuses hasseveral 031-337 3731) has double-decker buses to Cape hasdouble-decker toCape buses Mp pp502-3; (Map

Mp pp502-3; (Map ( KWAZULU-NATAL ••AroundDurban % ( %

Mp pp502-3 ; (Map 031-903 4994;www.cometcar 021-422 4022;www.around % % % 031-308 8111;www.trans % 031-305 9090;www 0861-287 287;www 031-307 5424;www % 0860-008 888) service. and traditional Zulucommunities make for eateries, villages buttherolling hills,sleepy The area aboundsintouristycraft shopsand skirts toNagleDam, eastof Pietermaritzburg. geni Valley) runs fromthecity’swestern out- the getaway fromthe steamy streets of Durban, andhassle-freeA pleasant kitsch) (ifslightly AROUND DURBAN Cabs Morningside costsaboutUS$4. thebeach between andFloridaRd, A taxi TAXI area.Durban metropolitan theouter-lying runthrough Aqualine buses areas. Trips costaroundUS$0.40.Thelarger most of thebeachfront andcentralresidential MynahandAqualine. Mynahcoversservices from theWorkshop. isonCommercialRdacross buses ropolitan tre (Map pp502–3 ) forinner-city andmet- The mainbusterminal andinformationcen- BUS pp502–3). (Map Sts 10pm fromthecornerof AliwalandSmith 5amto to theairportonhourbetween centre’s major hotels return (US$4).Buses the airportregularly tothebeach andcity The tripshouldcostaboutUS$20. thesame taxi, forclientsatcompetitive prices.By services Some hostels shuttle runtheirowntaxi TO/FROM THEAIRPORT Around Getting Swaziland andKruger NationalPark. three-day choof fromDurbantoPretoria via price, youcanenjoyold-worldluxuryona train onwhich, foramere US$1100starting Town(US$87/59,38hours). to Cape forthedeparturerun (phonethestation day) and the Jo’burg (1st-/2nd-classUS$34/22,12½hours), male andfemale compartmentfor sleeper they are andarranged intoseparate efficient travellers report feeling unsafe. not recommended fortravellers; hardy even The localinner-city orsuburbantrainsare Durban Transport The are anothermatter – services Long-distance Valley of1000Hills Airport ShuttleBus Airport ( % Rovos Trans Oranje, 0860-669 943)

(www.rovosrail.co.za) (www.rovosrail.co.za) (

%

runs areliable 24-hour (alsoknownasthe Um- 031-309 5942) ( which makes aweekly % 031-465 1660) is aluxurysteam runsthebus departs Mozzie

507 SOUTH AFRICA AFRICA SOUTH SOUTH AFRICA ( mation isavailable from Trafalgar iscalledthe Hibiscus Coast.Infor- Hibberdene. Thearea fromHibberdeneto are Umkomaas, Scottburgh, Park Rynieand Airport. Furthersouth,othermajor centres area about10kmfromDurbanInternational Amanzimtoti, ahuge resort andresidential dation options. beautiful forest walks,eatingandaccommo- toPortShepstone, close provides Reserve, a brolly.ThestunningOribiGorge Nature in summerthere ain’tmuch roomtoswing of(the latter because theAliwal Shoal), and one. Theregion isasurfers’ anddivers’ delight along theN2andRte 102,albeitapleasant this massof shoulder-to-shoulder getaways There’s abit of aGroundhogDayfeel about border. Cape to PortEdward,neartheEastern side resorts andsuburbsrunningfromDurban The SouthCoastisa160km-longstringof sea- SOUTH OFDURBAN guard. (US$0.70) are available fromthesecurity hours’ trails duration.Maps of self-guided and grasslandwalksof onetosix between round) Reserve secrets. The600-hectare experience isoneof theregion’s bestkept DurbanandPietermaritzburg.between freeway, orheadtoHillcrest fromtheN3 103, which beginsinHillcrest, offtheM13 an interesting visit.Youcandrive ontheRte 508 % Surprisingly, Route 2of the1000Hills The SouthCoast’sfirst official townis facing thesea. past thevillage. village. Sea Fever Dive Centre Quo Vadis La Manzi Dive Charters Named after thewrecked ship, the The highlightofthisstripisthe Aliwal Shoal,touted asoneofthe10bestdive sites intheworld. SOUTH COAST DIVING Aliwal Dive Charters equipment hire andair-tank refills. Rates rangefrom US$230toUS$250. ‘raggies’from wrecks, (ragged-mouthsharks),tropicalfishandsoftcorals. rays,turtles, since metasimilarfate here. Today,theshoal’sledges,caves andpinnacles are hometoeverything mended foritscharters. 039-312 2322; www.hibiscuscoast.kzn.org.za; Panorama039-312 2322;www.hibiscuscoast.kzn.org.za; hasavarietyof stunninggorge, wetland Numerous operatorsalongtheSouth Coast offer daydives andfour-day courses with dives, KWAZULU-NATAL ••SouthofDurban

(adult/child US$1.40/0.70; ( % 039-978 1112;www.raggiecave.com; Scottburgh)BasedattheCuttySark Hotel,andrecom-

( % ( % Hibiscus CoastTourism Hibiscus 039-973 2542;www.aliwalshoalscubadiving.co.za; Umkomaas)Onthemainroad Krantzkloof Nature Krantzkloof Nature ( 039-973 1328;www.seafever.co.za; Umkomaas) Towards thefrontofvillage % h 039-973 1345; www.divealiwal.co.za; Umkomaas)Onthemainroadpast 039-973 1345;www.divealiwal.co.za; 6am-6pm year- Aliwal, which ranagroundonthereef in1849,othershipshave

Lehr’s FallsLehr’s (US$27)and (US$40),abseiling 100m Gorge Swing(read bungee jump)off attheOribiGorgebased Hotel. Itoffers a % &Around Margate to aviewingarea of thegorge. with breakfast US$58/89; Hotel Gorge off theN2alongOribiFlatsRd. white-water are rafting(US$47). These 11km and birds. South Coastwithbeautifulscenery,animals kulwana River, of isoneof the thehighlights gorge,the N2.Thespectacular ontheUmzim- h .com; admissionUS$1.40,campsitesUS$4,2-bedhutsUS$15; This % Reserve Nature Gorge Oribi the region. hub. PortEdwardisthelastmaincentre in frantic Margate istheclaustrophobic holiday surroundingareas,pleasant while10kmsouth, dustrial administrative centre, buthassome 9am-1pm Sun) Beach,Margate; Pde, Main and shopsensures thatit’snota‘glamour’ concrete jungle’sstringof chain restaurants putting upthevisitors. Thisclaustrophobic ing upthevolume,andaknotof hotels lively, withastringof bars andclubspump- The southcoast’stouristmeccaisloudand To overnight inthearea, check outthe Port Shepstone istheSouthCoast’sin- Wild 5 Extreme Adventures Wild 5Extreme 6am-6pm) 039 /pop34,000 039 nature reserve nature

( isinlandfromPortShepstone, off . % 039-687 0253; www.oribigorge.co.za; s/d 039-687 0253;www.oribigorge.co.za; (

% s h , alarge pineplaceclose 039-679 1644;www.kznwildlife ) 8am-5pm Mon-Fri, to1pmSat, 8am-5pm Mon-Fri,

( % lonelyplanet.com 082-566 7424) Oribi Oribi is to 1pmSat,9am-1pmSun) Panorama Beach,Margate; Pde,Main Book accommodationBook online at lonelyplanet.com nice littlebeach. gate isaquieter version of Margate, witha and-grind brandof beach life. NearbyRams- resort, butit’sfunifyou’re intothebump- lonelyplanet.com minibus taxis also run between Durban and also runbetween minibus taxis and ban and Umhlanga Rocks, andbuses cultures. the Indiansubcontinent, pluscolourfulZulu cane growers andindentured labourers from colonialists, Indians,French Mauritian sugar- ing mixof peoples:descendantsof former B&Bs andlistsotheraccommodation. you leave theN2to enter Ballito. Itbooks noon Sat) BallitoDr; .dolphincoast.co.za; that favour thearea. of dolphins phin Coastbecause thebottlenose Umhlanga, totheTugela isknownastheDol- northof fromZimbali,slightly The section ment villages beaches. withsomepleasant upmarket timeshare apartmentsandretire- north totheTugela River isaprofusion of The stretch of coastfromUmhlangaRocks OFDURBAN NORTH (US$34, 10hours). Margateregular between buses andJo’burg an office inHibiscusCoastTourism,andruns Tourism return).same-day Bookthrough gate twicedaily(US$11single,US$15fora .margate.co.za/minicoach) The THERE&AWAYGETTING leafy gardensandabar. rary, individualstylingandprivate sundecks, has five ‘designer’bedroomswithcontempo- innearbyRamsgate, 200mfromthesea house, breakfast fromUS$47; rperpersonwith .wailana.co.za; 436AshmeadDr,Ramsgate; well asagood-sizedpool. charm. Lounge There andpub,as isaLadies old-English hotelestablished hasdelightful gate; perpersonwithbreakfast US$28; Sunlawns Hotel SLEEPING Metropolitan Dur- runbetween buses The NorthCoastishometoafascinat- Dolphin CoastPublicity Luxliner Wailana BeachLodge Margate Mini Coach Mini Margate is near the BP petrol station, justwhere isneartheBPpetrolstation,

( %

( % 039-312 2322; www.hibiscuscoast.kzn.org.za; 039-312 2322;www.hibiscuscoast.kzn.org.za;

( 039-317 4628;www.luxliner.co.za) % KWAZULU-NATAL ofDurban ••North as /fax 039-3121078;UplandsRd,Mar- linksDurbanandMar- . h

( ) ( ( % Thissvelte guest- % % 8.30am-4.30pm Mon-Fri, to 8.30am-4.30pm Mon-Fri, h 039-314 4606;www as 031-312 1406;www 032-946 1997;www 8am-5pm Mon-Fri, 8am-5pm Mon-Fri, Hibiscus Coast Hibiscus Thislong- ) has ais 2211; www.southernsun.com;LighthouseRd;s&dUS$370; liciously stylish on theinside. the exterior, butthistop-notch classicisde- Natal offersNatal adifferent face of South rhythms, thisbeautifulswathe of KwaZulu- Evoking images of wildlandscapes andtribal ZULULAND langa andDurban. Metro Umh- 716and706runbetween buses THERE &AWAYGETTING pavementpleasant cafés. breakfasts, lunches anddinners andmany antidote to Umhlanga’sconcrete towers. with anold-school atmosphere thatoffers an thisspotexudescolonial-eragrace lighthouse, US$58-84; 2 LighthouseRd;swithbreakfast US$72-107,dperperson Box Oyster SLEEPING &EATING onto thebeach. stunning duneforest, acrossthelagoonand are manybirdspecies.Thetrailsleadthrough town. Despite itssmallsize(26hectares) there h The Umhlanga LagoonNature Reserve The institute isabout2kmoutof town. Sharks Boardpersonnel ontheirboattrips. to Thursday. Thepubliccanaccompanythe at9amand2pmTuesday shark dissections mans. There are audiovisual and presentations specifically inrelation totheirdanger tohu- institutesearch dedicated tostudyingsharks, US$2.80/1.60; adult/child 1AHerrwoodDr;audiovisual&dissection .co.za; The SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES malls. beach resort, moneyedsuburbiaandsmall like mixof a‘sh’)iscosmopolitan upmarket Umhlanga (the‘h’ispronouncedsomething The buckleof Durban’schichi commuter belt, % Rocks Umhlanga land towns. otherin- KwaDukuza (Stanger) andseveral There’s ahuge choice of eatingoptionsfor Beverley Hills SunIntercontinental Hills Beverley 6am-6pm) 031 Umhlanga Lagoon Nature Reserve Umhlanga LagoonNature Natal SharksBoard ais ) Theydidn’tpulloutthestopson

h isonariver mouthjustnorthof ( % 8am-4pm Mon-Fri, noon-6pmSun) 8am-4pm Mon-Fri, 031-561 2233;www.oysterbox.co.za; Intheshadowof Umhlanga )

( % 031-566 0400;www.shark (admission free;

( % isare- 031-561

509 SOUTH AFRICA AFRICA SOUTH SOUTH AFRICA past. reportedthat bilharzia hasbeen here in the Mpushini Falls er’s Market, where localcraftsare sold. Craft- andtheMuseum Missionary Museum, Vukani ZuluBasketry Collection,Zululand the access totheZululandHistoricalMuseum, h NongqayiRd;adult/child US$2.80/4; [email protected]; The SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES modation optionsonoffer. there are manydecentattractionsandaccom- placed forexploringthewiderregion and but thesuburbsare leafyandquiet.Itiswell atmosphere,has arural,rough-and-tumble typifies idiosyncraticZululand.Thecentre and surroundedbygreen rollinghills, Eshowe Situated aroundabeautifulindigenous forest % Eshowe hours).eight (US$1.40, 2½hours) andJo’burg (US$30, time. visitors there are better placestospendyour surrounding lakes andmarshes, butformost by the350orsobirdspeciesthatfavour the ing very little. Bird-watchers mayberewarded aluminium smelters andawebof roadslink- pangeni, andisamassof modernsuburbia, of andthenearbytownof Richards Bay Em- Umhlathuze incorporates theindustrialport % Empangeni) Bay& (Richards Umhlathuze Shaka. about Zuluhistoryandthelegendary King traditional Zuluvillages. Here, youcanlearn Hluhluwe-Imfolozi Parktacular anditsmany still commonplace. all thesocialproblems thatcomewithitare best-known, cultures. poverty Intense and one of thecountry’smostenigmatic,and historical andcontemporary into insight tribal group,theregion offers afascinating around Durban.Dominated bytheZulu to theordered suburbandevelopments areand traditionalsettlements incontrast Africa, where finecoastline,mist-cladhills 510 The region ismostvisited forthespec- Greyhound rundailytoDurban buses From the museum youcanalsowalkto From themuseum 7.30am-4pm Mon-Fri, 9am-4pm Sat&Sun) 7.30am-4pm Mon-Fri, 035 /pop14,700 035 /pop115,000 Fort Nongqayi Museum Village Nongqayi Museum Fort KWAZULU-NATAL ••Zululand (40minutes return), butnote ( %

035-474 1141; includes charm, complete withagiantgargoyle. fers shabbybutspaciousbackpacker slightly of anoldBritishArmybrothel, this placeof- some walkingtrails. double withshared bathroomUS$10/18/24), backpackers (campsites US$7,dorm/single/ colonial-era pretensions. There’s aseparate whitewashed buildingwithroomsthatooze US$33/47; St;s/dwithbreakfast 474 4919;www.eshowe.com;38Main St;s/dwithbreakfast US$30/42) Main Amble Inn SLEEPING Nkandla. west of town,off theroadtoEntumeniand belt forest inasugar-cane region. It’s16km indigenous mist- than Dlinza,andpreserves ( andrivers.reserves Trail, athree-day nature circuitthrough ofThis isthestart thePrinceDabulamanzi some great viewsof thecanopyand birdlife. (www.zbr.co.za/boardwalk; adult/childUS$3.40/0.70) May-Aug) /boardwalk; admissionfree; marker, where warriors whoreturned from marker is getroad thatwilleventually youtoRte 34). on Rte ontoRte 66,andturnright 230(adirt warriors. FromEshoweheadnorth for6km orchards and canefieldsratherthanZulu today Nikwaliniisregimented withcitrus once loomedover thisbeautifulvalleybut Shaka’s kraal(fortifiedvillage), KwaBulawayo, Valley Nkwalini intoZululand. deeper taxis (US$2.80, 45minutes), thebestplacetocatch hour), Gingindlovu (US$0.90)andMelmoth toEmpangeni,and totheright) (US$4,one Main Stsroundabout –goacross thebridge rank (downhillfromKFCneartheOsborne/ leaveMinibus taxis fromthebusandtaxi THERE&AWAYGETTING activities ontap. as welltheGeorge’s microbrewery and101 % Reserve Dlinza Forest of forest thatnowmakes upthe200-hectare to have hiddenhiswives inthethickstand Across theroadfromKwaBulawayo Backpackers &Zululand Hotel George The 100m-long When warapproached, KingShaka issaid 035-474 5084;admissionfree; . There isprolificbirdlife aswell is

( % Coward’s Bush Book accommodationBook online at lonelyplanet.com 035-474 1300; [email protected]; 116 035-474 1300;[email protected]; ) March intothisattractive, Dlinza Forest Aerial Boardwalk Aerial Dlinza Forest ( %

h Entumeni Nature Reserve Entumeni Nature 035-474 4029;www.zbr.co.za 6am-6pm Sep-Apr, 8am-5pm 6am-6pm Sep-Apr, , nowjust another h Fillingtheguts lonelyplanet.com 6am-6pm) islarger

( % offers offers 035-

exhibits on Zuluhistoryand culture. Italso rary culture. learn abouttheirtraditionalandcontempo- the Mfuli River. localZulusand Guestsmeet onthebanksofnestled atthebottomof cliffs located Melmoth between andEshowe, by renowned It’s Leitch. ‘white Zulu’Barry tages, beehive huts androndavels, isowned ner, bed&breakfast US$185/277) US$155/132) Eshowe. walini, 3kmoff Rte 66and14kmnorthof Book accommodationBook online at lonelyplanet.com % &Simunye Shakaland ceived woundsintheback,were executed. battle withouttheirspears, orwhohadre- lonelyplanet.com h Museum Cultural-Historical the floors of identifiable buildings. where archaeologicalsee digshave uncovered rebuiltthe Ondinisite hasbeen andyoucan Anglo-Zulu War. of The royal kraalsection 1879),thefinalengagement of(July the1879 ofby Britishtroopsafter theBattle Ulundi h Ondini in1873, capital asCetshwayo’s Established SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES to explore intheimmediate area. therehowever, are stillplentyof historicsites and merely functionalfeel. ForZulufanatics, centre (cum-shopping mall)hasatemporary Ulundi haslostmuch of itsheartandsmall Pietermaritzburg, which gainedpre-eminence), and untilrecently of jointcapital KZN(with Once thehubof thepowerful Zuluempire % Ulundi &Around four-star overnightcountry. Youcanalsostay atthe tobethebestin performance issaid of Zuluculture andcustoms;theZuludance ence (NandiwasShaka’s mother)isadisplay formative authenticity.TheNandiExperi- blend of perma-grin performance and in- 11am) US$26; NandiExperience www.shakaland.com; the Protea-managed Created forthetelemovie asaset Simunye Zulu Lodge Simunye Zulu Shakaland isatNormanHurst Farm, Nik- Also located atOndini is the 8am-4pm Mon-Fri, 9am-4pmSat& Sun) 8am-4pm Mon-Fri, 8am-4pm Mon-Fri, 9am-4pm Sat&Sun) 8am-4pm Mon-Fri, 035 035 /pop15,200 beatsupatouristy,butentertaining, (High Place; (High . hotel

(s/d with Nandi Experience &fullboard (s/d withNandiExperience KWAZULU-NATAL ••TheElephantCoast % 035-870 2050;admissionUS$2; ( % Shakaland 035-450 3111;s/dwithdin- , acollectionof cot-

(incl inOndiniadmission; (

% , withgood wasrazed Shaka Zulu, 035-460 0912; h KwaZulu KwaZulu display

Catering to passing dignitaries andbureau- topassingdignitaries Catering of the Kings; admission free; of theKings; significance totheZulu.Thegreat 28 AlbiziaSt; dm/dwithshared bathroomUS$9.50/22; vately run group of traditionalbeehive huts. especially the tree house (US$20), haslost especially thetree house tothewildlife it’sclose parks. pens, although Nowadays it’saplace where very littlehap- Blacksmith’, asShaka’s spears were madehere. while others itmeans ‘Place of believe the ambi means‘Placeof theGatheringof Kings’, and Mtubatuba. thatKwaMbon- Somebelieve Empangenitiny townoff theN2,between KwaMbonambi (often calledKwambo)isa % KwaMbonambi Mountains. Estuary, andtothenorthwestbyLebombo by theImfolozi River justbelowtheStLucia The ElephantCoastisboundinthesouth diverse mixof environments andwildlife. stretch of naturalbeauty,withafabulously gion knownasMaputaland) isaphenomenal Coast (which incorporates thenorthernre- the tourismauthority–labelledElephant inSouthAfrica’, marked ‘PlacesIMustSee Not farfromthetopof thescribbled list COAST THE ELEPHANT (US$6, 1½hours). Vryheid (US$5.50,1½hours) andEshowe todestinationsincluding Inn, withservices parkisopposite theHoliday The minibus-taxi THERE&AWAYGETTING specials. forts of achain hotel. Ask about theweekend crats, thisoffers thepredictably safe com- St;s/dUS$95/101; Magogo 870 1220;Princess location; thepricestingsforwhatyouget. tohave onthe The owners seemed capitalised US$53) Bushcamp uMuzi SLEEPING eMakhosini are buriedhere. Amonument,the of Shaka, DingaanandMpande)Dinizulu (father Senzangakhona (chiefs) Nkhosinkulu, beadwork ondisplay. has oneof thecountry’sbestcollectionsof Holiday Inn Garden Court Holiday InnGarden Cuckoos Nest Cuckoos The 035 InsidetheOndinicomplexisthispri- Emakhosini Ophathe Heritage Park OphatheHeritage Emakhosini , sitsonahill.

( %

( % 035-580 1001;www.cuck-nest.com; 035-450 2531;dwithbreakfast h (

8am-4pm) % 035-870 1012;fax035- isof great

ais makhosi Spirit of Spirit (Valley (Valley

511 s

) ,

)

SOUTH AFRICA AFRICA SOUTH SOUTH AFRICA .wendybnb.co.za; 3 Riverview Rd, Riverview; rwithbreakfast Rd,Riverview; 3Riverview .wendybnb.co.za; known and most evocative parks.Coveringknown andmostevocative name suggests, at a base camp. name suggests, at a base (three days, US$363)is,asthe nights/four area (note: trailsare The seasonal). system, inaspecial24,000-hectare wilderness One of Imfolozi’s mainattractionsisitstrail WILDERNESS TRAILS –comeprepared.mosquitoes (low-risk) malarialarea andthere are lotsof dents onlyandcostUS$20perperson. drives only.Thedrives are open toresort resi- offers drives,night whileMpilaCamp night Camp Hilltop of Imfolozi. information centre, isintheeastern section holding centre and withanattached museum dam onitattractswildlife. the HluhluweRiver Hluhluwe,andthe bisects folozi formsthenorthernborderof thepark; Imfolozi, andtheBlackIm- flows through on theriver flats:theWhite ImfoloziRiver and wilddogs.Thelandisquite hillyexcept rhinos (blackandwhite), leopards,giraffes 96,000 hectares, theparkhaslions,elephants, 6am-6pm Mar-Oct) wildlife.com; adult/childUS$9.50/4.70; Park Hluhluwe-Imfolozi % Park Hluhluwe-Imfolozi fashioned homeycharm. US$76; Wendy’s B&BCountryLodge aneattownwithsugarmill.Here,erview, east; take Rte 8byminibustaxi). stop forStLucia(StEstuaryis25km destinations,Mtubatubaisthe from those and Mkuze)westintoZululand.Coming (US$11 toUS$14,twohours; viaHluhluwe (US$9.50, twohours) northtoPhongolo herethrough ontheirwaysouthtoDurban this chaotic run placeisthatminibustaxis For travellers, theonlyreal reason tovisit % Mtubatuba &Around stopovera pleasant ifstuck. moved on,butit’sspaciousandfriendly some of itsperkinesssincetheformerowners 512 Bear in mind that the reserves are ina inmindthatthereserves Bear The The wildlife drives here are very popular. On thesouthernsideof MtubatubaisRiv- 035 035 s KWAZULU-NATAL ••TheElephantCoast Centenary Centre Centenary ) dripswithsoft furnishings andold- ( % isoneof SouthAfrica’sbest- 035-562 0848)

( (

% h

( offers morningand 035-550 8476;www.kzn 8am-4pm) % h 035-550 0407;www 5am-7pm Nov-Feb, , awildlife- Base Trail

Imfolozi side is spectacular Imfolozi sideisspectacular River; and US$70) Imfolozi formore peaceandquiet. and more accommodationcentres sedate in a much-neededbar. Tryoneof thesmaller side, withstupendousviews,arestaurant and This isthesignature resort ontheHluhluwe person US$31/63,2-bedunitswithfullboardperUS$63) the campsite. hours ahead–shouldbemadedirect with Sat) St, cnrSoldiersWay; ban’s wildlife.com) through You mustbookaccommodationinadvance SLEEPING &EATING the night. ers mustsitupin1½-hourwatches during help prepare thefood (provided) andhik- five days,US$240),youcarryequipment, camp. Onthe guests mustcarrytheirgear for7kminto Trail fully catered. Similaristhe have noamenities(bucket shower)but are days, US$200)isatsatellite camps,which 30km) from Ulundi. western side,isaccessible byroad(tarred for Gate,goma. onImfolozi’s Thethird,Cengeni onto theRte 618justafter Mtubatuba toNon- theN2 byturningleft off Gate, isaccessed entrance,theNyalazi Mtubatuba. Thesecond 15km westof theN2,about50kmnorthof The mainentrance,Memorial Gate, isabout THERE&AWAYGETTING mum charge. billed perperson butare subjecttoamini- and catered. isfullyhosted Centre, near theCentenary &walksUS$240) (9-bed lodgeperpersoninclwildlife drives US$33) campsperperson rest hutsperpersonUS$29,2-bedsafari onapplication) &walks,price person inclwildlife drives and catered nine-bed lodge at There’s alsoafullyhosted and self-contained. lodges perpersonUS$63,minimumUS$418) The mainaccommodationcentre onthe Be warned:allaccommodationoptionsare Be The Muntulu BushLodge Muntulu Camp Hilltop . Last-minute bookings – those made48 bookings–those . Last-minute (three days,US$300)but nights/four inthecentre and of thereserve is perched high aboveis perched high theHluhluwe Tourist Junction Junction Tourist Short WildernessTrail Short KZN Wildlife KZN inPietermaritzburg oratDur- Book accommodationBook online at lonelyplanet.com Munywaneni BushLodge Munywaneni

( % Primitive Trail Primitive h 035-562 0848;rest huts/chaletsper 8am-4.30pm Mon-Fri, 9am-2pm 8am-4.30pm Mon-Fri,

(8-bed bushlodgesperperson ( ( % % 033-845 1000;www.kzn 035-304 4934;160Pine (twonights/three Extended Wilderness Extended Mpila Camp Mpila Camp lonelyplanet.com (fournights/ Mtwazi Lodge is secluded issecluded (8-bed bush Masinda Masinda (4-bed . (per

,

Book accommodationBook online at lonelyplanet.com Hiking Hiking Boat Tours kilometres, fromtheMozambicanbordernear Unesco a Park, World Heritage Site, stretches for280glorious Wetland Lucia St Greater The % WetlandPark StLucia Greater lonelyplanet.com Exodus Adventures Bhangazi Horse Safaris Horse Riding (see p514 ) andare guidedwalks. main trailsare Shores allintheEastern area Hiking isawesomearoundtheregion. The Safaris St LuciaKayak Canoeing h Rds; &Katonkel cnrMacKenzie .zululink.co.za; St LuciaTours&Charters BirdingRoute Zululand Birding information. Lucia Estuaryandare first useful stopsfor ators. Many of have inSt these based offices run orcanorganise tours touroper- through Most hostels rent snorkelling equipmentand ACTIVITIES &TOURS and campsites. 48 hours, tryyourluckdirectly withthelodges Durban 031-3044934) Wildlife KZN Wildlife accommodationmustbebooked at affected bythechanging ecologicalfactors. lake, withbothanimalandplantspeciesbeing long-term solutiontothemanagement of the Controversyto asevere drought. surroundsa currently for50years, atitslowestlevel due ary. Despite itspasthealthywater itis levels, crowds duringtheholidayseason. forests.and coastal Theoceanbeaches pullbig reefs andbeaches, tolakes, wetlands,woodlands ecosystems, offering fromoffshore everything andprotects of fivea jigsaw distinct reserves Lucia), the328,000-hectare area ismadeupof ofa series lakes St ontheother(includingLake Lucia. WiththeIndianOceanononeside,and lane (Maphelana), atthesouthernendof St Lake inthenorthofKosi Bay Maputaland, toMape- Remember thatunless specified,allKZN isAfrica’slargest StLuciaitself Lake estu- 035 6.30am-6pm) InStLucia Estuary. ( % in Pietermaritzburg 033-8451000, KWAZULU-NATAL ••TheElephantCoast with 48hours’ notice. Within ( % ( % ( ( 083-349 8575) % % ( % 035-590 1555) 035-550 4438) 033-753 5644) 035-590 1259;www % in .santalucia.co.za; 30Pelican St;s/dwithbreakfast US$39/78; Whale Watching tion onthereserves. Pelican Rd; hr US$4; Wildlife Drives Sleeping bookings. h Rd; St&Katonkel .advantagetours.co.za; cnrMacKenzie fare. old-fashioned luxurytotheusual standard ownersfriendly andhospitable addssome as for cooking,andorganised fun. kitchen –abusybar,hugestaples (serviced) makes upforit:BiB’soffers allthebackpacker the roomsare tarnish ofOccupying aseries sprawlingbuildings, with shared bathroomUS$9.50/20,dUS$27; St;campsitesUS$6,dm/d www.bibs.co.za; 310MacKenzie MacKenzie St. Wildlife office, and are Sugarloaf 590 1340;www.kznwildlife.com; Pelican St). three sites runby In St LuciaTours&Charters Wildlife KZN café Internet Information are notcute). down thetown’squieter streets (beware, these Hippossometimesamble to thethousands. of activityasthepopulationswells from600 village thispleasant isahotbed season, high which toget yourbearingsof theregion. In and theregion’s gateway, is agoodplacein St LuciaEstuary,thepark’smainresort town ST LUCIA ESTUARY Tours Barker Shaka EcoTours Leisure Advantage Tours Barker Shaka Safaris Zulu Euro Bhanga Nek Turtle Tours

BiB’s International Backpackers BiB’s International Santa LuciaGuestHouse St Lucia Estuary itself, youcancampat St LuciaEstuaryitself, 6.30am-6pm) Offers plentyofinformationandtour 6.30am-6pm) Offers Eden Park ) h This highly acclaimedB&Bwith Thishighly h

(per personUS$7) 7am-10pm) AtBiB’sInternationalBackpackers. ( ( ( 8am-12.30pm & 2-4.30pm) Offers informa- 8am-12.30pm &2-4.30pm)Offers % % % ( % (per personUS$9) ( 082-968 3766) 035-590 1340;fax1343; ( ( 035-590 1056; 310 MacKenzie St;per 035-590 1056;310MacKenzie % % % 035-590 1162) ( KZN Wildlife KZN % 035-590 1075) 035-590 1259) 035-590 2173) Iphiva 035-590 1162) ed buttheatmosphere ( isontheestuary,as %

( % 035-590 1259;www

(per personUS$7) , neartheKZN 035-590 1151;www ( (

% % The pretty 033-845 1000, 035-590 1056; pis , off 513

) SOUTH AFRICA AFRICA SOUTH SOUTH AFRICA 40km. Youmustbringyourownfood. .kznwildlife.com; campsitesUS$10, 5–8-bedlogcabins at the swimming. andthebeaches150m high are excellentfor Someofitself. theforested dunesare sand the lake andtheocean,northof Vidal Cape 2/4.70; 1224; www.kznwildlife.com; adult/child/vehicle US$2.80/ This beautiful % VIDAL CAPE bagandtent.equipment, sleeping sion. Youmustbringyourownfood,cooking US$7) US$9.50) the MissionRocksranger station. should bemadeandyoucheck inat park istohike oneof thetrails.Reservations of thissection the By farthebestwaytosee Trails Hiking ing afabulous life. array of sea sion Rocksare covered inrockpoolscontain- 1202) where youwillfindthe north of theboomgate are the of ecosystems toexplore. kilometres Fourteen ofan excellentselection wildlife, andavariety ofits eastern flank. Thissection theparkhas US$2.80/2/4.70; ( gate forthe on theeastern sideof thelake, istheboom Two kilometres northof StLuciaEstuary, % EASTERN SHORES(MFABENI) RESERVE have your ownwheels. Estuary, theonlywayof getting aroundisto Ifyou’reweek. notdoingtours outof StLucia .com) The Getting There &Away clean. apartments isspankingnewandsparkling thesmallcomplexoftraveller: self-catering This smartplacecaters tothebetter-heeled St;s/dUS$70/76; 70MacKenzie hideaway.co.za; 514 % Hippo Hideaway Hideaway Hippo There isKZNWildlife accommodation The The 035 035 035-590 1202;www.kznwildlife.com; adult/child/vehicle forthehikingtrails.Atlowtide,Mis- dropsbackpackers timesa several off isaguided,65kmlong,five-day excur- Baz Bus h KWAZULU-NATAL ••TheElephantCoast isaguided,three-day trailof about Mziki Trail Mziki Bhangazi Emoyeni Trail 6am-6pm) ( h % Eastern Shores (Mfabeni)Reserve Shores Eastern coastal camp

5am-7pm) in Durban031-3049099;www.bazbus (

Complex % takes in the land between takes inthelandbetween ( % 035-590 1202;perpersonnight

( % 035-590 1025;www.hippo , which has the sea on , which hasthesea ranger station 035-590 1202;perperson ( %

( % 033-845 1000; www 033-845 1000,590 Mission Rocks Mission ( %

as 035-590 )

, tours (activities fromUS$20 perperson). host of activitiesfrom snorkelling toturtle on themainstreet of thevillage, organises a Bhangazi. marine life. its scubadivinganddiversity of underwater It’s possiblybestknownonthetouristtrailfor gamefishing. deep-sea trails andsomeserious fers scenery,guidedwalking stunningcoastal Thislittlesliceof of- paradise the highlights. National Park andOzabeni–provide mostof here, parks–SodwanaBay butthetwonearby The spread-out village of isalso SodwanaBay andsilence. Andthat’sitsappeal. sea sand, Wetland Park, isn’tawholelotmore than the very northerntipof theGreater StLucia Spectacular ashelteredSodwana Bay, recess at % SODWANA BAY are twoexcellentcamps. rainfall. CheckwithKZNWildlife –there It willreopen assoonthere issufficient water inthelake andthearea closed. hasbeen years, there lastingseveral a drought isno perately therainbirdtosing.Due needs Both Fani’s IslandandFalse Park Bay des- PARK BAY FALSE & ISLAND FANI’S 35km furtheron. Vidalisapproximatelytrance gates. Cape theen- andthrough the CrocodileCentre per personUS$32,8-bedbushlodgeUS$47) .orcasafaris.co.za; .orcasafaris.co.za; in foratreat here. St Lucia.way downtoLake Bird-watchers are US$2.80/1.40/2; ( system, headsouthtotheadjoining reception; dayvisitors payUS$0.70. also here), charge youpayaone-off of US$6at massive camp-site area (someof thelodges are person). there are turtle-viewing tours (US$20per November andFebruaryholidays. Between the area canbecomevery congested during offshore coral reefs are wellworthvisiting,but are someanimals, andthedunes,swamps located on thecoast,eastof Mkuze. There .kznwildlife.com; adult/childUS$2.80/2; % Orca Launches If youoptforaccommodationinthepark’s Sodwana BayNationalPark From StLuciaEstuaryheadnorth,past For amore peacefullookatasimilareco- 035 035-571 0268;www.kznwildlife.com; adult/child/vehicle Book accommodationBook online at lonelyplanet.com h h ( % 6am-6pm) 8.30am-4.30pm Mon-Fri, tonoonSat) 8.30am-4.30pm Mon-Fri, 035-571 5000,083-6547204; www , which runsallthe (

% lonelyplanet.com 035-571 0051;www h , near Lake , nearLake 6am-6pm) Ozabeni is , camping atOzabeni,andhundreds of camp Book accommodationBook online at lonelyplanet.com west. KZN Wildlife KZN Sleeping &Eating lonelyplanet.com birds. aswellmoresented, than400 speciesof othersought-after animalisrepre-every kept ‘secret’. Itlackslions,butjustabout hectares,some 36,000spectacular isawell- covering in1912,thisreserve, Established .com; adult/child/vehicleUS$4.70/2.40/4.70; Reserve isthe A possibletriphighlight % MKHUZE GAME & AROUND RESERVE thornveld (thornyvegetation areas). pansand the coast,palmsgrowamongsalt especially alongthePongolaRiver. Nearer hippos. Forests of huge figsspread inland, riversand sluggish harbouringcrocodilesand soil ecological zone:flatandhotwithsandy Mozambique’s Tsonga people. It’sadistinct by up totheMozambiqueborderwassettled The area northof Hluhluwe-ImfoloziPark Tongaland region. populated asit’safairlydensely port (taxis) you shouldn’thave troublefindingtrans- town of Jozini.Fromthere toSodwana Bay runfromtheN2uptosmall Minibus taxis Getting There &Away thevillage.main roadthrough (from US$190perperson sharing).It’sonthe divers, offering combinationsof dive packages palms andthatched roofs, caters tohigh-life slick resort, withneatboardwalks,banana wanadivelodge.com; s/dwithhalfboardUS$100/164) from Hluhluwe. and abar. willpickyouup ForUS$20,staff apool cabins inalovely satellite TV, setting, ithas factory-style operation,nevertheless tion of DivingInstructors (PADI) resort isa from US$25/40; SodwanaBayNationalPark;.co.za; s/dwithshared bathroom Park. Nationalsites andcabins atSodwanaBay Park campsites/5-bedcabinsperpersonUS$19/30) Ozabeni campsitesperpersonUS$4,SodwanaBayNational The nearest ATM isinMbazwana,14km Sodwana BayLodge Coral Divers 035

( % is ( 031-845 1000,5739001;www.kznwildlife %

( % KWAZULU-NATAL ••TheElephantCoast 033-845 1000;www.kznwildlife.com; ThisProfessional Associa- ) 035-571 0290;coraldivers@mweb

( % 035-571 0095;www.sod Mkhuze Game Game Mkhuze h 6am-6pm). Offers Offers This

lodge atNhlonhlela,andavarietyof accom- mountaininn.co.za; s/dwithbreakfastmountaininn.co.za; US$70/126; with full board & activities fromUS$200; with fullboard&activities safari camps&chaletsperpersonUS$13/33) safari rest huts/2-&4-bed Nhlonhlela bushlodgeUS$27,Mantuma beside the Mozambique border and close to beside the Mozambique border andclose ( A littlefurtherwest, the % NDUMO GAME RESERVE theparkitself. through braai facilities. there isalarge diningarea, ashaded pooland wooden platforms.Inthecentre of thecamp tents safari builton commodation insecluded and blackrhino). elephant the BigFive (lion,leopard,buffalo, zambique’s civilwar. Theparkalsoboasts saved fromMo- Maputo ElephantReserve, of elephantherdsfromthe last survivors 160 elephantsinthearea, manyof them the the Mozambique border. There are nowabout adult/child/vehicleUS$4/2/4.70; .co.za; of tected belt)forests inthesandveld (dry,sandy Africa’s lastfree-ranging elephants are pro- Heading South backtotheN2fromKosiBay, % TEMBE ELEPHANT PARK alladdtotheappeal. serve GameRe- courts anddrives totheMkhuze lounge area withbloominggardens,tennis luxurious touch. Amassive indoor-outdoor is anold-school colonialwithamodernand Mountain. Zulu factionsin1884,are foundnearGhost which date rival froma bigbattlebetween Ndwandwe tribe;occasionallyhumanbones, burialplaceforthe town, wasanimportant range ontheN2. apply. modation atMantuma. Minimumcharges adult/child/vehicle US$4.70/2.40/4.70; % (US$12) are available. time. It’s15kmfromMkuze. Wildlife drives viewing inthecountry.Morningisbest holes, which offer someof thebestwildlife Tembe ElephantPark The townof Mkuzeiswestof theLebombo Only 4WDvehicles are allowedtodrive Tembe Lodge Ghost MountainInn 033 035 KZN Wildlife KZN hashidesatwater still,thereserve Better 033-845 1000,035-591 0004;www.kznwildlife.com; ( %

( % 033-845 1000;www.kznwildlife.com; Ghost Mountain 035-592 0545; www.tembe.co.za; r 035-592 0545;www.tembe.co.za;

( (

% % 035-573 1025;www.ghost 035-592 0001;www.tembe Ndumo Game Reserve Ndumo Game h h s offers a bush bush a offers , southof the 6am-6pm) 5am-7pm) ) offers ac- as 515 on is

)

SOUTH AFRICA AFRICA SOUTH SOUTH AFRICA 516 of 10US$47, minimumchargeUS$470) identified here.been system, andmore than250birdspecies have sharksandsomecrocsin thelake Zambezi snorkelling justoffshore. There are hippos, in SouthAfrica. Acoralreef offers excellent of themostbeautiful(andquietest) beaches the hillsideintoanestuarylinedwith some features astring of fourlakes thattipdown life.com; adult/child/vehicleUS$2.80/1.40/2; Reserve The jewelof theElephantCoast, % KOSI BAY NATURE RESERVE off Rte 22. lake, eitherfromMkuzeorMhlosinga, is viathevillage of Mbazwana,southof the The mainroute tothereserve the reserve. of birdlife. Thelake ispopularforfishing. There are hippos,somecrocsandalarge range isarange of dunesupto165mhigh. sea sand theeasterncoast, andbetween shore andthe on thewater Itliesvery tothe level. close covers 60and70sqkm,depending between .com; adult/child/vehicleUS$2.80/1.40/4.70; Africa, Protecting thelargest freshwater lake inSouth LAKE SIBAYA NATURE RESERVE administered byKZNWildlife. is Mabibi Thereserve andNine-MileBeach. Manzengwenya, Bay, Black Rock,Rocktail Bhanga Sibaya,KosiBay, Nek, includes Lake inthesouth,and the northtoSodwanaBay stretchesThis reserve fromMozambique in Reserve Forest Coastal person US$7,2-bedrest hutsperpersonUS$27) tion rest hutsare offered by able 2kmoutsidetheparkgate. and Camping available. walks (US$6)andvehicle tours (US$1.40)are known asa‘miniOkavango’. plains andpans,which attractsvisitors. It’s the PongolaandUsutu Rivers, andtheirflood and antelope speciesbutitisthebirdlife on black andwhite rhinos,hippos,crocodiles Mkuze. On some10,000hectares, there are the Swazilandborder,about 100kmnorthof Fuel andlimited suppliesare usuallyavail- Wildlife-viewing andbird-watching, guided The 44km There iscurrently no accommodationin 033

( % KWAZULU-NATAL ••uKha

Lake Sibaya Nature Reserve Reserve SibayaNature Lake 033-845 1000;www.kznwildlife.com; campsitesper ( % 033-845 1000,035-5920234;www.kznwild Kosi BayTrail KZN WildlifeAccommoda- KZN (4 daysperperson forgroup

is a self-catered, isaself-catered, hlamba-Drakensberg Parkhlamba-Drakensberg (www.kznwildlife Kosi Bay Nature Kosi BayNature h h . 6am-6pm) 6am-6pm)

US$7, s/dUS$20/40) board office on the Kosi Bay Camp access Camp board officeontheKosiBay These 10modernchaletsThese have allthemod Posbus757,KwaNgwanase;s/dwithbreakfast.co.za; US$47/80) country’s bestbeaches in20minutes. Mouth accessroad.Youcanwalktooneof the by theparksboardoffice ontheKosiBay munity-run campsite offers campingright 3318; campsitesperpersonUS$8) commodation isinbasicchalets. snorkelling, dolphinswims,anddiving.Ac- beaches, picksupfromMkuzeandorganises road, thisexcellentplaceoffers transfers toall tonegotiatetracks. needed thesandy away fromthewater. 4WDsare Inmanycases, around theregion’s dunesandoften sandy Most lodge accommodationisdispersed Sleeping &Eating north of KwaNgwanase). Mouth(19km andKosiBay KwaNgwanase) (7kmnorthof Camp –KosiBay the reserve of There thereserve. are twoentrancesto centre, some10kmwest is thenearest service butvery littleelse. the reserve, stopping each inremote night camps. guided hike aroundtheKosiestuarinesystem, jagged, green of sweep theDrakensberg. its airbrushed, publicity-shot alter ego, itisthe brochure clichés. Ifanylandscapelives upto South Africanthat theyhave becometourist- Today, someof are thevistas sorecognisably renamed uKhahlamba- Drakensberg Park. inNovemberitage status 2000,whenitwas buttresses wasformallygranted WorldHer- 243,000-hectare of summitsand sweep basalt try’s mostawe-inspiringlandscapes. Thisvast kingdom of offer Lesotho, someof thecoun- uKhahlamba- SouthAfrica andthemountain ary between the of Drakensberg which formthebound- Range, peaks tabletop The PARKUKHAHLAMBA-DRAKENSBERG a4WD. village need –youmight (east)justbeforebut turnhardright Ndumo N2 andheadtowardsNdumoGameReserve, To get here, take fromthe theJoziniturn-off Getting There &Away plus large mozzienets. barandrestaurant, cons includingDSTV, Maputaland Campsite Utshwayelo I GwalaLodge There are campsites andbasic cabins in Book accommodationBook online at lonelyplanet.com

( % Around1kmfromtheparks 033-592 0654;maputaland@polka (

% ( % 084-588 0564;campsites Thisquiet,com- 033-592 9626,073-134 lonelyplanet.com KwaNgwanase

ὈὈ ὈὈ

R712 escarpment buttheAfrikaansnamecap- a more accurate descriptionof thesheer of‘Battlement Spears’. TheZuluwordis the ZulunameditQuathlamba,meaning lonelyplanet.com for thousands offor thousands by years –thisisevident worldly atmosphere. People have lived here tures somethingof theDrakensberg’s other- Molumong Khatleli Glen NR DRAKENSBERG NR NP GR FR LEGEND WA WildernessArea Royal Natal Terae Letseng-la- Rugged ὈὈὈὈὈ ὈὈὈὈὈ ὈὈὈὈ ὈὈὈὈ ὈὈὈὈ ὈὈὈὈ Ὀ Ὀ Drakensberg means‘DragonMountains’; Sterkfontein (25km) Phuthaditjahaba To NP Cavern (3282m) Mont-aux-Sources Dam NR Sehlabathebe NP Nature Reserve National Park Game Reserve Forest Reserve Rugged GlenStables Sterkfontein Bushman's Nek Cleft Peak Dam (3281m) Mountain Lodge Montusi Hlalanathi L ESOTH Masenkeng Matsoaning Mokhotlong Pizza Tower of Ngoangoana KWAZULU-NATAL Park ••uKhahlamba-Drakensberg Oliviershoek Pass Cathkin Peak Didima Woodstock Camp Dam ὈὈ ὈὈ Castle NR (3181m) Cathedral Peak Garden Champagne Castle (3004m) Cathedral Peak To Kokstad NR Injasuti Dome Ntlenyana NR Mzimkulwana (100km) Thabana- (3482m) WA Mzimkulu Cobham Backpackers Amphitheatre Giant's CastlePeak Bushman's Nek Castle Hotel (3377m) Champagne Bergville (3409m) NR Hotel Giant's Castle Van Reenens (3130m) Sani Pass Pennygum Redi Central Drakensberg (3312m) Information Centre Pass Khotso Horse Spioenkop Vergelegen Lotheni Coleford Trails Spioenkop NR Ὀ ὈὈ ὈὈ NR NR Cowl NR Falcon Ridge Monk's NR Inkosana Lodge Dam Winterton Sani Lodge Country Lodge Valemount NR Drakensberg Sun Wyford R616 Underberg Battlefield Spioenkop Himeville Castle Camp Giant's R617 74 R R600 NR Highmoor WA Mkhomazi Maqabaqabeni NR Himeville Lower Lotheni in search ofin search sites andsights. spending mostof yourtimebehind awheel ing one(orafew only)placesratherthan

Draycott areas of interest soyou’re better off select- 50 years ago. its peakswere first climbedlittlemore than the manySanrock-artsites –yetmanyof

U

m NR Swamp z

i Kamberg

m There’s nosingleroadlinkingallthemain

Rockmount

k

u lu NR R

i

v N e 3 Besters r Wembezi 74 R Redcliffe Bulwer R612 Wagendrif Klip River Frere R617 NR Ladysmith R103 Deepdale Chieveley Colenso Donnybrook Nottingham Mooi River Rosetta B Road Estcourt l

o 11 N u Ὀ Ὀ

k Balgowan r a 12miles 20km 0 0 n Elandslaagte Elandslaagte Battle of

Nowadi s

Midmar Dam

Tugela River Tugela

River Weenen GR

Mkomazi

L M

Weenen

River i

o o

n o

s i

R

Craigie Burn Sundays

R103 i Richmond v

e Karkloof R617 r Ὀ Ὀ

River Edendale Howick 74 Dam R

Hilton River Rietvlei

517 R622 SOUTH AFRICA AFRICA SOUTH SOUTH AFRICA on Rte 600, this private enterprise is extremely helpful. isextremely enterprise 600,thisprivate on Rte Based intheThokozisacomplex,13kmoutsideWinterton 488 1207;www.cdic.co.za; Thokozisa; Centre, Old Main Rd,Underberg; Centre, OldMain ( Tooth, the Eastern Buttress and the Sentinel. ButtressTooth, the Eastern andthe Sentinel. flows allthewayto theAtlantic. becomestheOrangeeventually River and Rivers here;ern Khubedu rise the last of these theTugela,called because Elands andWest- behind isMont-aux-Sources(3282m), so Falls drop850minfive stages. Loomingup Herebelow orfromuponhigh. theTugela and canyon,which from isequallyspectacular sublime Amphitheatre, an8kmwallof cliff cessible scenery,theparkiscrowned bythe of theDrakensberg’s mostdramaticandac- the airasparkstretches across. Withsome of into thesurroundingpeaksrisingashigh outstrips itsrelatively meagre size,withmany US$3.40/2; Park est summits,the8000-hectare Spanning outfromsomeof% therange’s lofti- Royal NatalNationalPark the middleof summer. weather gear. Coldsnapsare in possibleeven derstorms soyoushould alwayscarrywet- are attheirbestloomingoutof themist. gain inatmosphere, peaks andeerie asthestark you’ll invistas whatyoulose cloud. However, rain fallsandviewscanbeobscured bylow thisiswhenmostofin summer,although the snowfalls,youshould visit and, ontheheights, If youwanttoavoid mostof thesharpfrosts When toGo Centre EscapeTourism Southern Drakensberg Tourism Drakensberg Okhahlamba InformationCentre Drakensberg Central localinformationoffices: several ban KZNWildlife eitherthePietermaritzburgthrough orDur- accommodation (exceptcamping)inadvance In general, youmustbookallKZNWildlife Information 518 and central Drakensberg. and centralDrakensberg. h Tatham1557; www.drakensberg.org.za; Rd,Bergville; berg, Himeville andSaniPass.berg, Himeville to 12.30pmSat)Coversthesouthernregion fromUnder- % Much of therainfallsinsuddenthun- Other notable peaks intheareaOther notable are Devil’s 036 9am-4.30pm Mon-Fri, to 1pm Sat) Covers the northern to1pmSat)Coversthenorthern 9am-4.30pm Mon-Fri, 033-701 1471; www.drakensberg.org; Clocktower 033-701 1471;www.drakensberg.org;

( % KWAZULU-NATAL Park ••uKhahlamba-Drakensberg 036-438 6310;www.kznwildlife.com; adult/child h 5am-7pm)

branches. There are also hasapresence thatfar h 9am-4.30pm Mon-Fri, 9am-4.30pm Mon-Fri, h ( 9am-6pm) % Royal Natal 036-448 ( % 036- trails. of activities, includingtwo-day horse-riding permit costsUS$4. no fee forthe hut, butanovernight hiking on theescarpmentnearTugela Falls. There’s Fuel isavailable inthepark. There’s basicprovisions. alsoashopselling has suffered lessfromvandalism.Thenotable has manymore rockshelters andcaves, and thelatter atGiant’sCastle; asthose served areRoyal Natal’s fewer andnotaswellpre- There are Sanrock-artsites, although several ROCK ART which hasbecomeagrowingproblem. a large populationof baboons, thefeeding of everywhere, asare hares. alsohas RoyalNatal reedbuck.mon isthemountain Hyraxes are Of thesixspeciesof antelope, themostcom- ensberg butthere isstillquite alottobeseen. of andothersections theDrak- Giant’s Castle heath andscrub. altitudesgrass yieldsto the valleys.Athigher in grasslandandsmallyellowwoodforests in Broadly speaking,much of theparkiscovered ing thatthepark’sfloraisextremely varied. andvalleys,itisn’tsurpris- plateaus, cliffs 1500m inaltitudeanddistinctareas such as With plentifulwater, arange of more than WILDLIFE 2-4.30pm) on thenortheastern side. adjoinsthepark Rugged GlenNature Reserve Stables Just outsidethepark gates, the HORSE RIDING ( should bookwiththe and takes Gate. youuptoBasotho fromtheMahaito thesummitstarts campsite arewalks inRoyalNatal daywalks.Thehike (20km, 10hours) hikes, mostof the25-odd four tofive days)andthe forthe Except HIKING TRAILS boundary. Ridge,on Surprise outsidethepark’snorthern Caves,just pastthemaingate, andCannibal sites are SigubuduShelter, northof theroad % Royal Natal isnotasrich inwildlifeRoyal Natal as The park’s If you plan to camp on the mountain, you If youplantocamponthemountain, 058-713 4415)

( % isabout1kminfromthemaingate. 036-438 6422) . Otherwise there’s. Otherwise abasichut Amphitheatre-to-Cathedral visitors centre organises awide range QwaQwa tourist officer QwaQwa tourist

( Mont-aux-Sources h lonelyplanet.com 8am-12.30pm & Rugged Glen (62km,

US$10/22) campsitesUS$5.50,dm/d [email protected]; s/d withbreakfast US$28/50;mainsUS$3.50-7; dinner; dorm roomdoors. in theworks.Note, there are nolocksonthe sotho (US$35)andarock-climbingwallis Onoffer arenorth of tours Bergville. toLe- this recently relocated backpackers is21km Book accommodationBook online at lonelyplanet.com offers campingandexcellentaccommoda- African chocolate-box lid,thispretty resort unless youare experienced,itmaynotbe Wildlife before office youattempt aclimb; You mustapplyforapermitfromtheKZN The parkhasbecomeameccaforclimbers. CLIMBING lonelyplanet.com 5km from Oliviershoek Pass. andabout about 30km northwestof Bergville runsoff theRteThe roadintoRoyal Natal 74, THERE &AWAYGETTING isjustafterThe turn-off theTowerof Pizza. homeliness withplentyof five-star comforts. opulent placeblendsathatch-and-fireplace With oodlesof bush-lodge exclusivity,this s/dwith halfboardUS$140/260; .montusi.za.net; inlushforest surrounds. service award-winning resort offers family-friendly with fullboardUS$93/124) access. also offers cottages comfortable andinternet very goodoven-fired pizzaisprepared. It Tugela River. tion onafinger of landoverlooking the s camp sitesperpersonUS$7,2-/4-bedchaletsUS$52/93; park. camp sitesperpersonUS$8) Reserve Nature inside thepark,orinnearby 438 6303;fax033-4386231;campsitesperpersonUS$8) two-bed chalets. commodation, includingsomereasonable The park’smaincamphasavarietyof ac- Thendele SLEEPING &EATING granted. Cavern Cavern Hlalanathi The followingplacesare alloutsidethe Montusi MountainLodge Tower ofPizza Backpackers Amphitheatre You canalsocampat ) Withalocationlifted froman straight i Facing outover theAmphitheatre,

( ) ( % Yep, there really isatower,where %

( 033-845 1000;chaletsperpersonUS$43-47) % 036-438 6270;www.cavernberg.co.za; s/d (

%

KWAZULU-NATAL ••uKha ( 036-438 6308; www.hlalanathi.za.net; 036-438 6308;www.hlalanathi.za.net; % 033-845 1000,4386303;fax6231; Northof this RoyalNatal, 036-438 6480;towerofpizza.co.za; . Mahai

( %

( % 036-438 6243;www (

036-438 6106;amp % Rugged Glen 033-845 1000, h ais lunch &

) a minibus taxi fromtherea minibustaxi (US$2.80,45min- creaking, 150-year-old farmhouse. fers cosyroomsinthatched rondavels orina ensberginn.com; 3Tatham Rd;s/dwithbreakfast US$31/57) .co.za; s/dwithhalfboardUS$70/112; .co.za; minutes) andEstcourt (US$1.60,45minutes). (US$0.80, 15 (US$1.10, 30minutes), Bergville ofan expanse lawn. US$24/48) Rd;s/dwithbreakfast .wheretostay.co.za/lilaclodge; Springfield native isthe restaurant and dowdyrooms.Anotheralter- Rd;s/dUS$20/35) Main .co.za; the of Spioenkop. into Sanrockart,ZuluhistoryandtheBattle tonoonSat) 3pm Mon-Fri, ( makes stopover. apleasant Drakensbergthe gateway totheCentral and thispeacefullittletownis Quaint andsedate, % WINTERTON and talks. falcon-, kite- andeagle-flying demonstrations adult/child US$4/1.40; Sun turn-off is distance. prefer toadmire fromasafe theirmountains ful region who isjustaspopularwiththose with dramaticsceneryaplenty,thisbeauti- isabighitwithclimbers. But Berg the Central (3377m)areChampagne Castle foundhere – (3312m), theMonk’sCowl(3234m)and Peakmost formidablepeaks–Giant’sCastle Crowned withsomeof the Drakensberg’s Berg Central and Ladysmith. utes). AdailyGreyhound busstopsatEstcourt Park Resort terrace restaurant. plain,smalltowninnwithanice is aslightly point forthenorthernDrakensberg. jumping-off isnevertheless auseful Bergville aroundtheedges,Small andalittlerough % Bergville % You’ll have andtake toget toLadysmith There Peak are toCathedral minibustaxis Doubling asthetown’sfavoured nightspot, kilometres fromtheDrakensbergSeven Bergville’s swankieroptionisthe Bergville’s The 036 036 Bridge Lodge Bridge 036-488 1885; Kerk St;admissionbydonation; 036-488 1885;Kerk Drakensberg Inn Drakensberg , astringof on cottages andunits,set

( % Lilac Lodge 036-448 1001;sanfordparklodge@mweb hlamba-Drakensberg Parkhlamba-Drakensberg (

% h Falcon Ridge offers anexcellentinsight 036-488 1554;thebridge@futurenet talks 10.30am) has a pleasant thatched hasapleasant

( %

( % 036-448 2946;www.drak Winterton Museum Winterton

036-488 1025;www ( s , withawesome % ) , which of- 082-774 6398; h Sanford 519 9am-

SOUTH AFRICA AFRICA SOUTH SOUTH AFRICA pagne Castle. pagne Castle. on offer. It’sonRte 600,enroute toCham- cuisine andheapsof activitiesandwalksare digenous gardenandcleanrooms. Excellent the bestbackpackers inKZN,boastsanin- rondavels with/withoutensuiteUS$25/17; sana.co.za; dm/dwithshared bathroomUS$11/34,thatched rock art. fers intoSan anexcellentmultimediainsight near themaingate. Theartcentre here of- chalets. There isalsocamping self-catering views, arestaurant, andarange of excellent (US$16) and Durban(US$54). tle Peak. willcollect youfromEstcourt Staff at theendof theroadtoChampagneCas- a s/dwithfull boardUS$92/157; www.champagnecastle.co.za; is the (US$4 perperson). bookings forcampingandovernight hiking southwest fromWinterton. takes Theoffice Hotel, which isattheendof Rte 600running person US$9.50) and ChampagneCastle. Monk’s Cowlare thetwopeaksMonk’sCowl fers superbhikingandrockclimbing.Within another stunningsliceof theDrakensberg, of- .kznwildlife.com; adult/childUS$2.80/1.40; Reserve Monk’s CowlNature % MONK’S COWLNATURE RESERVE as camp sitesperpersonUS$6,chaletsUS$44-49; Didima Camp guides. (per person/vehicle US$2/4.70)andarranges the scenicdrive (4WDonly)upMike’s Pass life.com) ability orequipmentisrequired. but otherthanbeingphysicallyfit,nospecial hours return)long day’sclimb(10km,seven and CleftPeak Peak (3281m).Cathedral isa (2930m),theHorns(3005m) includes theBell .kznwildlife.com; adult/childUS$3.40/1.80; Reserve ral Peak Nature of therampartsof Peak, Cathedral A beautifullyphotogenic area intheshadow % CATHEDRAL PEAKNATURE RESERVE 520 One of KZNWildlife’s swankiestofferings, The One of thebetter-known resorts inthearea The The ) 036 036 , conveniently located inthemountains KWAZULU-NATAL Park ••uKhahlamba-Drakensberg , in Didima Camp, sells permitsfor sells , inDidimaCamp, ) Champagne Castle Hotel Champagne Castle hasathatched lodge boastinghuge Inkosana Lodge park office park office is 3km beyond Champagne Castle is3kmbeyondChampagneCastle

( % 033-845 1000;www.kznwildlife.com;

( ( % %

( 036-468 1103;campsitesper 036-488 8000;www.kznwild %

( % ( 036-468 1202;www.inko % 036-488 8000;www

036-468 1103;www ( % s h h 036-468 1063; ) , oneof 6am-6pm) 6am-6pm) Cath ed- Cath ,

from Giant’sCamp. only bevisited aspartof atourthatdeparts (a30-minute walk),whichant’s Camp can vultures. US$65; 3718; [email protected]; perpersonUS$20,minimum The in thereserve. which isfound onlyintheDrakensberg, nests summits. lives intheboulders nearthemountain rodentcalledtheicerat,whichshort-tailed 60 mammalspecies,therarest isasmall, in thespring. ests inthevalleysandswathesof wildflowers withsmallfor-gorges cliffs basalt andhigh is mainlygrassland,wooded The reserve WILDLIFE limited provisions.selling andthere’s Camp akiosk able atGiant’sCastle ment tothewest. barrenand Lesotho’s plateau over theescarp- huge forest tothenorthandsouth reserves ged, remote andpopular destination,with 1904, mainlytoprotect theeland,itisarug- sits at1300mabove in Established level. sea Drakensberg’s loftiest itslowestpoint –even adult/child US$3.40/1.80; serve peak, Africa’s highest Rising uptoInjasutiDome(3409m),South % Reserve Game Giant’s Castle hours), under andBan- itself; Giant’s Castle the Meander Valley; Giant’s Hut(10.5km, four aboveander Hut(5.5km, twohours), onacliff andleadtoMe-Trails beginatGiant’s Camp HIKING Sangroups. clash between reflects thepaintingshere, which record a it’s an8kmwalkeach way.Thecave’s name tour; and mustbevisited onaself-guided child US$3.40/0.70; of the20thcentury. that thelastSanlived here atthebeginning rock art,withatleast50sites. Itisthought isrich inSan GameReserve Giant’s Castle ROCK ART Battle Cave You can see thepaintingsat You cansee Limited supplies (includingfuel)are avail- The rare lammergeier, orbeardedvulture, Altogether there are tobeabout thought 036 ( h % May-Sep) May-Sep) 033-845 1000,3533718;www.kznwildlife.com;

(admission US$3.40) h is the best place to see the is thebestplacetosee 9am-4pm) Lammergeier Hide Hide Lammergeier h 5am-7pm) Giant’s Castle Game Re- Game Giant’s Castle , 2kmsouthof Gi- is nearInjisuthi lonelyplanet.com isoneof the Main Cave ( % 036-353 (adult/

‘hiking fee’. ing utensils. Thefee forthehutsisaone-off bagsandcook- sleeping which you’ll need in Pietermaritzburg orDurban. KZNWildlife huts.Bookthrough mountain and six-bed chalets andfour- andeight-bed Book accommodationBook online at lonelyplanet.com escarpment near Bannerman’s Pass.escarpment nearBannerman’s nerman’s Hut(11km,4½hours),tothe close lonelyplanet.com from the mainescarpment area, Southeast of andalittle away Giant’s Castle KAMBERG NATURE RESERVE smorgasbord of wildernessareas. Giant’s CupTrail,theregion alsooffers a as somegreat walks,includingthefabulous renowned hikingarea asaserious andaswell overney uptoLesotho theSaniPass. Itisalso boasts oneof theregion’s thejour- highlights: andUnderberg, theSouthernBerg meville townsof fromthepleasant accessed Hi- Best WildernessAreas Southern Drakensberg Camp. Giant’s Castle are kilometresjane) butthese stillseveral from (KwaDlamini, Mahlutshini andKwaMankon- court tovillages nearthemainentrance the past,robberies have reported. been andin roads astheycanbecomeunpassable back are –donottake theunsealed sealed The roadsfrombothMooiRiver andEstcourt THERE&AWAYGETTING on andaroundRte 600. son US$42-47) wildlife.com; mountainhutperpersonUS$4,chaletper- Loskop, northwestof Estcourt. from hascampsites. Itisaccessed reserve spotonthenorthernsideofand pleasant the 7849; campsitesperpersonUS$6.50) basic suppliesonly. stove. There’s asmallshop atreception with fires,lowed tolight tobringa soyou’llneed caves forhikers. Note thathikers are notal- aswelltrailhutsand inside thereserve, There are accommodationcentres several SLEEPING out. setting trail youmustfillintherescue register before There are othertrailsaswell,butforeach Infrequent runfromEst- minibustaxis There are placesoutsidethe reserve, several Camp Giant’s Castle Camp Injasuti Hutted Hikers at canstay Themaincamphastwo-,four- KWAZULU-NATAL ••uKha

( mountain huts

% ( % 033-845 1000;www.kzn 033-845 1000,036-431 This secluded Thissecluded Kamberg Na- Kamberg

(US$4) , for rock-art walks. has anumberof antelope speciesandguided seum andsomeveryseum gooddaywalks. Lower Loteni, about30kmnortheastof Hi- chalets. adult/child US$2/1.40; son) are available. person). campsites Basic (US$5.50per per- hiking trails,some withtrailhuts(US$8per a goodplacetoget informationonthemany ontheD7;it’s is about 15kmfromHimeville adult/child US$2.80/1.40; Reserve Nature are in Mzimkulwana Nature Reserve The MzimkuluWildernessArea andthe COBHAM NATURE RESERVE River. Fromthere thearea isanother2km. Lower LothenitoSaniPass road,attheMzinga Road,offthe is44kmfromNottingham off but youcancamponhikes (US$4).Theturn- There are campsites noestablished inthearea, Reserve Nature The anyoneelse. days withoutseeing is oneof thefew placeswhere you canhike for www.kznwildlife.com; adult/childUS$2.80/1.40; The RESERVES MKHOMAZI &VERGELEGEN NATURE them. can close Road. Theroadsaren’t great andheavy rain or65kmsouthwestof meville Nottingham chaletsperperson US$24) 3-bed child US$2.80/1.40; Lotheni RESERVE NATURE LOTHENI from Rosetta. south justpastthesigntoKamberg, 31km andKamberg.Giant’s Castle Turnoff tothe h ( ofThe parkoffice HIGHMOOR NATURE RESERVE RoadorRedcliffe. Nottingham N3 southof MooiRiver, travelling viaeither adult/child US$2.80/1.40,2-bedhutsUS$27; Reserve ture adult/child US$2.80/1.40;campsitesperpersonUS$5.50; % The accessroadrunsfromthehamletof KZN Wildlife KZN You canget offthe there fromRosetta, Camp sites areCamp available. 6am-6pm) 033-845 1000,033-2637240;www.kznwildlife.com; Mkhomazi Nature Reserve Nature Mkhomazi

( % is off the road from Rosetta to isofftheroadfromRosetta 033-702 0540;www.kznwildlife.com; adult/

( %

( ( % % h ( hlamba-Drakensberg Parkhlamba-Drakensberg % 033-267 7251;www.kznwildlife.com; h 033-702 0831;www.kznwildlife.com; 033-702 0712;www.kznwildlife.com; 6am-6pm) 033-845 1000;campsitesUS$7, h 6am-6pm) Highmoor Nature Reserve Nature Highmoor 6am-6pm) offers campsites and has a Settlers’ Mu- hasaSettlers’ hastroutfishing. . Theparkoffice ( % 033-266 6444; h h Vergelegen Vergelegen 6am-6pm) Cobham 6am-6pm) 521

SOUTH AFRICA AFRICA SOUTH SOUTH AFRICA tour company. and insidertipsabouttheregion its through offers arange of fabuloustours andactivities composition of thehikingparty. US$9/7) dation is in limited sceneryondayfour.mountain Accommo- San rockpaintings andthebreathtaking 033-845 1000) ahead, through booking walk it.Early great walks.Anyreasonably fitperson can Pass toBushman’sNek,isoneof the nation’s five daysandfive runningfromSani nights), Without doubt,the Giant’s CupTrail(68km, GIANT’S CUPTRAIL rondavels US$30) camp sitesUS$6;dm/dwithshared bathroomUS$9/11,2-bed the side). on theLesotho to 4pmontheSouthAfricanside(until5pm Lesotho. Theborderisopendailyfrom8am the chalet. apassporttocrossinto Youneed let. Various operators run4WDtripsupto bordercrossing,istheSaniTopCha- Lesotho Natal. andKwaZulu- Lesotho road linkbetween available. Amazingly,thisisalsotheonly direction andinexpensive ridesare horse are magical. There are hikes inalmostevery (onaclearday!) in thecountryandvistas of Lesotho. pass At 2865m,thisisthehighest hairpin bendsintothecloudstokingdom of ridearound SouthAfrica:aspectacular The drive upthe Sani Pass isatriptotheroof % SANI PASS sites caves. oreven day walk. buttresses androck-artsites andagood(long) Peak.Rhino Thearea hasmanysandstone man’s NekValley Horse Trails. road pastKhotso is 30kmwestof Underberg –carryalongthe per personUS$5.50,hutsUS$8; www.kznwildlife.com; adult/childUS$2.80/1.40;campsites ofThe parkoffice CASTLE GARDEN 522 Highlights includethe Highlights At thetopof thepass,justbeyond At thebottomof at thepassyoucan sleep hikers trailhuts,camp Overnight canuse incorporates beautiful This reserve 033 Sani Lodge . Nofirewood isavailable soyou’ll need KWAZULU-NATAL Park •• uKhahlamba-Drakensberg is advisable. Fees isadvisable. are onthe based which besides accommodation

( % , dominated bythe3051m KZN Wildlife KZN 033-702 0330;www.sani-lodge.co.za; Garden Castle Garden shared huts shared ( up toninemonths ( Bathplug Cave Bathplug Cave

% (adult/child per trail (

in Pietermaritzburg % h 033-701 1823; 6am-6pm) Bush- with

camp sites nexttotheborder,and right to stay. place just downtheroad,isalsoapleasant in theregion. Themore Himeville, sedate money, shoppingandtoorganise activities good infrastructure, andistheplacetogofor peaks forabreath of thefresh Ithas stuff. up insummer,whenDurbanites headtothe Drakensberg, thissmallfarmingtownfills Clustered inthefoothillsof thesouthern % Underberg r withhalfboardUS$40) Bushman’s NekHotel streams.co.za; campsitesperpersonUS$12) Park Caravan streams on horseback. theborderandintoLesotho can trotthrough NationalPark. Sehlabathebe Lesotho’s You trails upintotheescarpment,includingto (no vehicles!). Fromhere there are hiking borderpost This isaSouthAfrica–Lesotho % BUSHMAN’S NEK orUnderberg. you upfromHimeville head of thetrail;arrange forthelodge topick a stove andfuel.SaniLodge isalmostatthe for thesouthern Drakensberg. The is aprettier, more-sedate point jumping-off A skipandajump fromUnderberg, Himeville % Himeville find onerunningtotheSaniPass Hotel. maritzburg (US$4,1½hours) andyoumight (US$0.40,10minutes) andPieter-Himeville (US$15, twohours). runto Minibustaxis and dailyexceptSundaytoPietermaritzburg (US$17, 1½hours) onMondayand Thursday, toUnderberg runs minibuses fromKokstad road. Kokstad to explore. It’s8kmfromUnderberg onthe ful charm, andhas48hectares of grounds s/dwithbreakfastafrica.com; US$52/92) Country Lodge tailored tomore specialistinterests. day tours uptheSaniPass, aswellpackages US$38; Rd;daytoursperperson .com; ClocktowerCentre, OldMain Sani Pass Carriers The cosy,thatched farmhouse Sani Pass Tours Accommodation optionsinclude 033 /pop1500 033 033 h 9am-5pm Mon-Fri, to2pmSat&Sun) 9am-5pm Mon-Fri,

( ( % % , eastof theborderpost.

033-701 1686;www.valemount

( 033-701 1064;www.sanipasstours

( % ( % % 033-701 1017;[email protected]) in Pinetown 031-7019999; 033-701 1249;www.silver lonelyplanet.com oozesgrace- , which has Valemount Himeville Himeville offers offers Silver- tion of French andEnglish 19th-andearly- rustic, village-green atmosphere. with cosybar,comfyroomsandlashingsof Book accommodationBook online at lonelyplanet.com Himeville is minibus taxis toUnderberg isminibustaxis Himeville parks and reserves. parks andreserves. Wildlife forallKZN tion andaccommodationbookings Dr; .kznwildlife.com; QueenElizabethPark, DuncanMcKenzie Rd;perhrUS$2.80)Forinternetaccess. Victoria bric-a-brac. anincrediblecountry, contains arrayofthe 12.30pm) Museum lonelyplanet.com admission free; Gallery One of isthe thecity’s finestsights SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Tourism Pietermaritzburg WildlifeHeadquarters KZN IDS Computers INFORMATION the city’svitality. streets. Alarge studentpopulationaddsto ofbrings echoes thesubcontinenttoitsbusy a colourfulflavour andtheIndiancommunity city isvibrant:itslarge Zulucommunitysets andrefurbishedmuseums hotels. Byday,the proudlyhouse day martinis.Today,these hark backtoanage of pithhelmets andmid- ally knownasPMB)grandhistoricbuildings shared withUlundi), Pietermaritzburg’s (usu- istrative andlegislative (previously capital Billed astheheritage city,andKZN’sadmin- % Pietermaritzburg and plentyof Europeantrees. is picturesque, hillycountry,withhorse studs Pietermaritzburg. Westof Pietermaritzburg little tointerest visitors. Themaintownis east. Thisismainlyfarmingcountrywith to Estcourt,skirtingZululandthenorth- The MidlandsrunnorthwestfromDurban THE MIDLANDS (US$0.70, 10minutes). US$13, sUS$36-39,dUS$65-70) dm ( and surrounds. to1pmSat)Has excellentinformationonthecity Mon-Fri, 117CommercialRd; .pmbtourism.co.za; % For accommodation,the About theonlyregular transportfrom h 033 /pop457,000 033-702 1305; www.himevillehotel.co.za; Main Rd; Main 033-702 1305;www.himevillehotel.co.za; 8am-5pm Mon-Fri, tonoonSat)Providesinforma- 8am-5pm Mon-Fri,

( , oneof in thebestruralmuseums

( % % 033-342 1804;fax394 9831; CommercialRd; 033-702 1184;admissionbydonation; h ( % 10am-6pm Tue-Sun) KWAZULU-NATAL ••TheMidlands 342 7135; Victoria Centre, 157 342 7135;Victoria ( ( % % isahomeyinn, 033-345 1348;www 033-845 1000;www , afinecollec- h Himeville Arms Himeville 8am-5pm Tatham Art Tatham Art h 9am-

self-catering units. self-catering a comboof unpretentious, cleanroomsand Tatham Gallery,this arty littlecaféwhips up US$3.40-5; Palate Artist’s EATING service. ful colonial-stylesurroundsand personal this elegantplaceoffers contrived buttaste- US$74-104, dUS$91-119; s McFarlane cnrHowickRd&George .guestnet.co.za; Lane; or leadtheway. town; theowners are happytopickyouup It’s10kmoutofcity daysandrusticnights. optionisgreat seeking forthose out-of-town and alandscapedrockpool,thisexcellent twUS$57; .co.za; s crumpets.co.za; 1Freelands Pl;s/dwithoutbreakfast US$27/40; around andhandytothecentre. one of themoststylishrenovated backpackers net extravaganzas andethnicadornments,is place,withmulticolouredbright mosquito- Alfred St;s/dUS$11/23) 312Prince www.chauncey.co.za; activities. place. Offers a wealthof informationand at thisfriendly,ifalittledog-eared, bohemian reflect tails many wagging thewarmwelcome 317BulwerSt;dmUS$10, dfromUS$23; .co.za; Umphiti Backpackers SLEEPING St. Themain temples and areplica of atrek wagon. include Retief’sprayerbookandwater bottle, to1pmSat) Mon-Fri, Sts; adult/student/childUS$0.40/0.20/0.10; Museum ern hemisphere. load-bearing red-brick buildinginthesouth- City Hall Old Supreme Court.Thenearby,colonial-era colonial buildings defiantopposite alsostands the station, from a1st-classcarriage atPietermaritzburg A 20th-century works housed inthebeautiful 20th-century workshoused statue ofGandhi Redlands Hotel &Lodge Hotel Redlands Torwood Lodge Backpackers Street Alfred Prince inthecentre,Back there are two Duvet &Crumpets Duvet For trekker relics, headtothe ) In aquiet,leafylocation,thisplaceoffers atthenorthernendof Longmarket

(cnr ChurchSt&CommercialRd) ( h % breakfast &lunch) 033-394 6834; cnr Longmarket &Boshoff 033-394 6834;cnrLongmarket ( s % mosque . Afrikanericonsondisplay on Church St. )

With a quaint rural setting Withaquaintruralsetting 033-342 8327;Commercial Rd;lunch , whowasfamouslyejected ( % ( (

% % as 033-390 1072;www.torwood is nearby, on East St. isnearby,onEast 033-394 3490;umphiti@mweb 033-394 4133;www.duvetand

( % Swish and stately, Swishandstately, ) Upstairs at the 033-394 3333;www ( % isthelargest h 033-345 7045, Voortrekker Voortrekker 8am-4.30pm s Hindu Hindu The ) This 523

old SOUTH AFRICA AFRICA SOUTH SOUTH AFRICA are essential. a classySpanish-influenced menu.Bookings of with aseries roomsand Victorian house city’s fine-dining option islocated inacosy US$5.50-13; open duringgalleryhours. a range of creative andfresh, healthyfare. It’s 524

Havelock Duvet &Crumpets(1km) To Butchery(10m); Cornwallis Rd 4 1 3 2 5 PIETERMARITZBURG Station Roberts Rd Train Els Amics Mayor's Walk Headquarters (4km) KZN Wildlife Victoria Rd Lodge (400m); To RedlandsHotel& 19 Statue ofGandhi...... Old ColonialBuildings...... Hindu Temple...... Hindu Temple...... City Hall...... Pietermaritzburg Tourism...... IDS Computers...... oqe...... D1 Mosque...... SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES INFORMATION Rd KWAZULU-NATAL ••TheMidlands

Greyling St h 18

( AC

Pine St Pine Boom St % lunch & dinner Tue-Fri, dinnerSat) lunch &dinnerTue-Fri, West 033-345 6524; 380 Longmarket St;mains 033-345 6524;380Longmarket

Pietermaritz St

Berg St Chapel St Chapel

Church St 1

Longmarket St

ὈὈὈ ὈὈ ὈὈὈ ὈὈ Ὀ Ὀ

Loop St Rd Howick

8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 St Levy Burger St Rd Commercial

Showgrounds B3 B3 D2 D2 B3 C3 A2

Agricultural West Royal B rneAfe tetBcpces... D3 Prince AlfredStreetBackpackers...... Els Amics...... Artist's Palate...... (see9) Afro Café94...... Umphiti Backpackers...... Voortrekker Museum...... Tatham ArtGallery...... EATING SLEEPING To R56;Underberg(109km);

Himeville (118km); Sani Pass(130km) Rd Chatterton The 8 7 ὈὈ ὈὈ

Burger St 9 Umsinduzi Umsinduzi 3 ὆὆὆὆὆὆ ὆὆὆὆὆὆ ὆὆὆὆὆὆ ὆὆὆὆὆὆

Alexandra Victoria Rd

bok loinandcuban oxtail. tospring- sine’: fromHluhluwe Impalasalad get theirmouths around ‘worldAfricancui-

mains US$3.40-11; and gents (300g)steaks of type,racksof every Rd;mainsUS$6-9.50; Roberts Park St Boshoff 2

15 Church St

17 Butchery River Voortrekker Afro Cafe 94 Cafe Afro Cemetery 16 Boom St 10 20 McDonalds 14 13 12 11 10 9 Plaza

(

% D2 C3 D3 C2 B3 Commercial Rd Commercial Loop St To Johannesburg

13 Prince Alfred St h ( 033-342 5239; www.thebutchery.co.za; 101 033-342 5239;www.thebutchery.co.za; Burger St (520km)

%

SA Roadlink&TransluxBuses...... Minibus TaxistoUnderberg...... Minibus TaxistoLadysmith...... Long-Distance Buses...... City Buses...... (see17) Budget...... TRANSPORT ryon necp u fie. C3 Greyhound &IntercapeBusOffices.. lunch &dinner) St Retlief

0.3miles 500m 0 0 033-345 0773; 266 Prince Alfred St; 033-345 0773;266Prince h St Miller

11 Longmarket St 14 12 noon-late) Torwood Lodge(10km) To Airport(5km); Carnivores can lonelyplanet.com To SARoadlink(1.2km); Translux Buses(1.2km) Ladies (200g) Ladies D 6 To Greytown N

Umsinduzi 3 5

To Durban East 20 19 18 17 16 15 (80km) (73km) 4 C3 A3 A4 C3 C3 River Protea Hotel. h itzburg twiceaweek. GETTING THERE&AWAYGETTING out. Vegetarians are alsocatered for. packed deckof eaters make forasizzling night drying biltong,wall-to-wallwineracksanda lonelyplanet.com 10 hours) andDurban(US$7/4.70, 2½hours); Saturday) toJo’burg (1st/2ndclass US$29/20, Natal, bythe Pietermaritzburg isserviced Train Pietermaritzburg Tourism). departfromMarketOther taxis Sq(behind 3½ hours) andJo’burg hours). (US$16, eight (US$5.50, 2½hours), Newcastle (US$11, (US$7,2½hours), UnderbergLadysmith one hour),Estcourt(US$5.50,1¾ hours), from Pietermaritzburg includeDurban(US$4, St infrontof Destinations thetrainstation. generallyMinibus taxis congregate inChurch Minibus Taxi agents here. Most of themajor car-rental companieshave Car .com) upintotheSouthernDrakensberg.buses and DurbanInternational Airport. Durban,Pietermaritzburg(US$8) between (US$7 toUS$24,1½hours). Port Elizabeth(US$42,15hours) andDurban Town(US$54,22hours), hours), eight Cape hours), Pretoriato seven to (US$26,seven burg includeJo’burg (US$17toUS$27,six by thelisted companiesfromPietermaritz- Destinationsoffered oflevel onboardservices. 287 287) Luxliner Translux alds Plaza. Burger St,ordirectly opposite inMcDon- areMost buscompanies’headoffices in Bus season). airport, fliestoJo’burg daily(US$114high SAAirlink Air The Sani Pass Carriers Cheetah Coaches Cheetah 8am-5pm Mon-Fri, tonoonSat) 8am-5pm Mon-Fri, travels DurbanandPietermar- between which runsdaily(exceptTuesday and offer similarpricesdependingonthe Baz Bus ( (

% % ( % 031-308 8111) Greyhound/Cityliner Greyhound/Cityliner 011-914 4321) 033-386 92861) Budget ( % KWAZULU-NATAL ••Thukela (

in Durban031-3049099;www.bazbus %

( %

( % 033-701 1017;[email protected]) , 033-342 4444) and SA Roadlink , withanoffice atthe 033-342 8433;224LoopSt; isintheImperial Intercape Intercape ( % ( runsdaily 083-915 9000) % 345 6890) ( % Trans runs 0861 , , man’s River TourismAssociation office,on baths andmassive breakfasts. ( The 6000-hectare % Reserve Spioenkop Nature and BloodRiver Battles. defence of Rorke’s Drift andtheMajuba Hill of theheroic Zulu attheBattle Isandlwana, thedefeat ofSpioenkop, theBritishby ofinclude theSiege theBattle of Ladysmith, Africa’s recent historytookplacehere. They some of themore conflictsinSouth important is often Route as describedastheBattlefields the northwestof Thearea KwaZulu-Natal. willbehappyin History buffs Thukela, in THUKELA hours). (US$7, 2½hours) andJo’burg (US$13,eight Pietermaritzburg (US$6,1¾hours), Durban (US$2.40,onehour), 40 minutes), Ladysmith from EstcourtincludeWinterton (US$1.40, tom of Phillips St,inthetowncentre. Fares (US$24, 7½hours). Durban (US$1.40,2½hours) andJo’burg Upper Harding rundailyto St.Thebuses s St;s/dwithbreakfast US$35/53; [email protected]; 76Albert dens, the a trails,a self-guided antelope species.Thereseveral are twoshort which hasblackandwhite and rhinos,giraffes life.com; adult/child/vehicleUS$1.60/1.60/2; Reserve Weenen Game 5000-hectare undulatingthornveld of the isnearby. excellent wildlife reserve Durban toJo’burg/Pretoria busroute, andan farming communities.It’sconnected onthe it’ssurroundedbypleasant feel, although has aquieter andmore rough-and-tumble Once athrivingtown,the Estcourt of today % &Around Estcourt a Wednesday, returning onaMonday.There is Town (1st/2ndclassUS$82/56,36hours) on and the % five-bed cottage five-bed train informationline Greyhound stopoutsidetheBush- buses A lovely placeringed bytropicalgar- The main minibus taxi rankisatthebot- The mainminibustaxi Around 25kmnortheastof Estcourtisthe ) 036 036 , boastsplentyof extrassuch asVictorian 036-488 1578; www.kznwildlife.com; admissionUS$2; Trans Oranje, Ashtonville TerracesAshtonville (per personUS$15) camp sites camp sites Spioenkop Nature Reserve Spioenkop Nature

( %

( % which heads to Cape which headstoCape 036-354 7013;www.kznwild 0860-008 888) (per personUS$6)

( % in the reserve. in thereserve. 036-352 7770; h . 6am-6pm) 525 and

,

SOUTH AFRICA AFRICA SOUTH SOUTH AFRICA Boer guncapable ofBoer heaving a shell10km. Nearby isareplica ofLadysmith. and Black Mambazo. including aroomdedicated toLadysmith h ( the siege. tostorein 1884),wasused rationsduring to thetownhallinMarket (built House child US$0.30/0.10; The excellent SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES place towalkaround. isapleasant during thesiege –Ladysmith buildingsinthecitycentreseveral were here Mambazo. Apartfromthe historicalaspect– Black place of thevocalgroup,Ladysmith it hashittheworldheadlinesashome- forcesfor118 days.Moreby Boer recently, War,whenitwasbesieged1902 Anglo-Boer Dolores Smith. de Leon JuanaMariaher actualnamewasLady delos have hadamuch more colourfulmoniker; governor SirHarry Smith,butitcouldwell was namedafter thewife ofLadysmith Cape % Ladysmith the Rte 600;followthesigns). fromtheRte 616(not battlefield isaccessed to get here. Ifcoming bycar,theSpioenkop Winterton off theRte acar 600.Youwillneed entrance isontheeastern side,13kmfrom dining room. field, isaluxury‘barracks’withconverted barn US$120/132) rperpersonwithfullboardUS$120,4-/6-personcottages .co.za; sites andonefour-bed tented bush camp. per personUS$7,bushcampUS$20) pool, horse ridingandvulture hide. over 270birdspecies.There’s aswimming variousanteloperhinos, giraffes, speciesand trips intotherange. Animalsincludewhite and nottoofarfromtheDrakensberg forday handy formostof thearea’s battlefield sites Dam ontheTugela River. is Thereserve h 526 % The reserve is northeast of Bergville butthe isnortheastof Bergville The reserve Spion KopLodge inavalley, Inside thereserve There’s alsothesmall Outside the The townachieved fame duringthe1899– 9am-4pm Mon-Fri) 036 6am-6pm; 036-637 2231; 25 Keate St;adult/childUS$0.30/0.10; 036-637 2231;25Keate Pollux KWAZULU-NATAL ••Thukela , overlooking battle- theSpioenkop , used bytheBritish indefence, used of s Siege Museum h ) town hall is based on the Spioenkop ontheSpioenkop isbased , withsomedustydisplays

9am-4pm Mon-Fri, to1pmSat) 9am-4pm Mon-Fri, ( % 036-488 1404;www.spionkop are twoguns, ( %

Cultural Museum Cultural 036-637 2231;adult/ iPika offers camp Long Tom (camp sites

, next Castor , a

straightforward pleasant B&B(anditsdogs) pleasant straightforward Checkers Shopping Centre. Buses intheOval Bus tickets fromShoprite/ canbepurchased Bus THERE&AWAYGETTING 1980s renovations (shagpilecarpet). which combineold-stylegrandeurwithsome historicaldigsandoldschool pub Enjoy these St;s/dwithbreakfast US$44/77; 140Murchison .co.za; the sundeck. cooking andviewsof theDrakensbergs from with battlefieldsartefacts, scrumptioushome smart thatched abode. There’s snugrooms as ersrestlodge.co.za; 61CoveCres; s/dwithbreakfast US$44/59; camp ifyou’re tryingtosave thepennies. up of letyouset jungleforagardenandmight welcomes alltravelling types.Ithasalittleslice Convent Rd;s/dUS$23/30; Boer &Brit SLEEPING ( 7702, 072-2629669;[email protected]) areout of Ladysmith Warandare intheAnglo-Boer cialise based recommendedTwo highly guideswhospe- TOURS north of Newcastle, inearly1881. The with the British defeat at Majuba Hill,40km The first Warendedabruptly Anglo-Boer Hill Majuba times. Pretoria) bothstophere, butatinconvenient and thedaily The Train Jo’burg (US$15,five hours). one hour),Durban(US$10,2½hours) and St. Somedestinationsare Newcastle(US$4.70, bound forJo’burg are nearbyonAlexandra near thecornerof andLyellSts.Taxis Queen rankiseastofThe maintaxi thetowncentre Minibus Taxi Town(US$52,19hours). Cape hours), Pretoria hours) and (US$26,seven ban (US$20,fourhours), Jo’burg (US$26,six withDur-chison Rd, andconnectLadysmith onMur- petrolstation depart fromtheCaltex % Royal Hotel Lodge Buller’s Rest 036-631 0660). Trans Oranje ) You’llwanttodiginlong-term atthis

( % Book accommodationBook online at lonelyplanet.com

Trans Natal ( % 036-631 2184;fax036-6373957;47-49 036-637 2176;royalhotel@intekom (Durban to Cape Town) (DurbantoCape s

( Elizabeth Spiret Elizabeth Spiret % ) True toitsname,this 036-637 6154;www.bull (DurbantoJo’burg/ and lonelyplanet.com John Snyman ( % 036-637 as site

) 4pm) Book accommodationBook online at lonelyplanet.com tifully rugged andthe each British soldierfell. cairns andmemorialsmarkthespotwhere of hill,whiteout fromthebase Isandlwana also inthevicinity. is signposted andSchuinshoogte battlefieldis N11. Themore remote Nekbattlefield Laing’s (adult/vehicle US$0.50/1.40; lonelyplanet.com US$389/589; Fugitives’ s/dwithhalfboard gitives-drift-lodge.com; Drift; battlefields. tion Centre. Thelodges organise tours of the trackfromtheRorke’srough DriftOrienta- placeis5kmup atlefields, thishospitable ai s/dwithhalfboardUS$39/77; Drift; Rorke’s driftlodge.co.za; Lodge Drift Rorke’s SLEEPING hill atthebackof thevillage. know thissite asShiyane, theirnameforthe isexcellent.TheZulu original mission station, 9am-4pmSat&Sun) 4pm Mon-Fri, Centre centre ited together. atthe Start became thecultclassic of never made abouttheBattle Isandlwana, ing style. Tellingly, the mainbodyof theBritishforceindevastat- of itsgreat battlefielddisasters byannihilating hours earliertheZulusdealtEmpire one the precursor of Rorke’s Drift,where only travel 15kmacrosstheplaintoIsandlwana, history. dramatic placeinBritishmilitary andthebattlewasassured its the survivors warriors. Victorialavished Queen medalson fromaround4000Zulu small mission station 139 Britishsoldiers successfullydefended a eyed variety,where on22–23January 1879, heard of Rorke’s Drift,avictoryof themisty- youwillhave astar, Michael doubtless Caine If youhave seen % Drift Rorke’s & Isandlwana a photographicdisplay. duringthebattle,has asahospital tage, used Cottage The sceneryaroundRorke’s Driftisbeau- Peace negotiationstookplaceat Fugitives’ Drift Lodge Drift Fugitives’ For thefullpicture, youmust however, Ideally, thetwobattlefieldsshould bevis- 034 , where there Spread isasmallmuseum.

( ( ) % % Withwonderfulviewsover thebat- atthefoothillsnearMajuba. Thecot- 034-271 8165;adult/childUS$2/0.70; 034-642 1687;adult/childUS$2/0.70; ais MPUMALANGA Zulu, ( Zulu Dawn % ) Thisopulent private

h Rorke’s Drift Rorke’s 034-642 1805; www.rorkes 034-642 1805;www.rorkes ( Zulu % thefilmthatmade 7am-5pm) , onthesite of the 034-642 1843;www.fu Isandlwana Visitors Isandlwana Visitors (1964)isnow. (1979),thefilm isoff the

Orientation Orientation O’Neill’s h h 8am- 8am- river, offers theZuluperspective of events. the besthiking trailsinSouth Africa. historic towns, roaringwaterfalls andsomeof aside afewworth setting daystoexplore the way toKruger National Park, butit’s well ment. Many travellers on their zipthrough plains atthedramaticDrakensberg Escarp- tumble onto thelowveldtheir spectacular est, iswhere theplateaus of thehighveld begin to aquieter paceof life. Sun; pronouncedM-poo-ma-lan-ga) adheres unassuming Mpumalanga (Placeof theRising and peacefulsilenceof itsnature reserves, to therelaxed rhythmof itsoldminingtowns flowofFrom thesluggish theCrocodileRiver MPUMALANGA donation; and 45kmfromVryheid. the Rte 33; theturn-offis27kmfromDundee US$2/0.70; Museum Blood River (wagon circle).Themonumentandthenearby bronze re-creation of the64-wagon the Vow’isnow‘Dayof Reconciliation’. the site on16December,buttheformer‘Dayof SouthernAfrica. Afrikaners‘civilise’ stillvisit hadadivinemandatethe Boers toconquerand asproof that inAfrikanerhistory,seen event ofThe Battle BloodRiver becameaseminal Voortrekkers barely sustained afew casualties. the river ranred withtheirblood–whilethe 12,000 Zulus.More than3000Zulusdied– diplomatic partybycrushing anarmyof trekkers avenged themassacre of PietRetief’s On 16December1838asmallforceof Voor- % Monument River Blood andRorke’sconnects Isandlwana Drift. 42km) andaccessiblefromRte 66.Adirtroad is70kmandRorke’s (Isandlwana Driftis dee The battlesites are bothsoutheastof Dun- THERE&AWAYGETTING from Rorke’s Drift. (single/double US$250/297).It’sabout10km less-glamorousrooms inaslightly guesthouse memorabilia.class andmilitary There are isdrippingincolonial-style wildlife reserve This inlandprovince, South Africa’ssmall- The The battlesite ismarked byafull-scale 034 Ncome Museum h h 8am-4.30pm) 8am-4.30pm)

( , ontheothersideof the (

% % are 20kmsoutheastof 034-632 1695;adult/child 034-271 8121;admissionby laager 527

SOUTH AFRICA AFRICA SOUTH ὈὈ 33 N N 1 SOUTH AFRICA N 4 rushing rivers and theoccasionalrocky bluff. and bushwillow interrupted byopensavanna, rael, withhuge tracts of acacia,sycamore figs Try toimagineanationalparkthesizeof Is- Kruger National Park untouristed paceawayfrommajor towns. National Park’s doorstep anda laid-back, includeitslocationat Kruger tractions. These Drakensberg Escarpment,ithasnumerousat- lacks thedramaandscenicsplendour of the roam Kruger NationalPark. Whilethearea fields fortheancestors of theanimalsthatnow vast bush-covered were expanses theplaying that you’llget ataste forbygonedays,when It’s inMpumalanga’s hot,dryeastern lowveld LOWVELD EASTERN 528 42 N Heilbron MPUMALANGA Vereeniging Vaal Dam PRETORIA NR NP GR LEGEND JOHANNESBURG Modimolle Steyn Petrus MPUMALANGA ••EasternLowveld N 3 Nature Reserve National Park Game Reserve

G AUTEN

ὄ Pie masn Heidelberg Rv 33 R 12 N R544 11 N Balfour R546 50 R545 R547 R R546 ὅὅ ὅὅ Siyabuswa Delmas 25 R Bronkhorstspruit 34 R Elander 11 N 35 S TAE R F RE 37 Mokopane R ὄ ὄ Ὀὄ 38 R Roedtan Vrede Morgenzon Witbank Standerton Grobersdal 35 R R555 Middelburg 39 17 R Bethal N Vandyksdrif

11 Klip N N 4 11 N Newcastle 11

Volksrust N River To Polokwane L IMPO 36 R 33 (10km) R

Vaal Hendrina

Dullstroom Steelpoort Belfast 37 Carolina R Amersfoort Machadodorp River ὄ Ὀ Ὀ Biosphere Reserve Ekangala Grassland River To Durban (360km) 65 Ermelo R 38 R Watervalsrivier Sheepmoor Wakkerstroom Schoemanskloof Lydenburg roads and comfortable camps,but ifyoupre-roads and comfortable first steps. totake its spot anewbornimpala struggling on arecent killandthenext dayyoumight morning youmayspotaprideof lionsfeasting and deathisplayedoutonadailybasis. One of access.It’saplacewhere thedramaof life diversity ofof wildlife andease conservation, protected areas –knownforitssize,history National Park. some notionof whatit’slike tovisitKruger of tohave smalleranimals,andyou’llstart hipposandmanyspecies giraffes, cheetahs, andblackrhinos (the buffaloes Big Five), plus Now fillitwithlions,leopards,elephants,Cape To Tzaneen Pass (10km) Iswepe Badplaas Erasmus The park hasanextensive network of sealed Kruger isoneof theworld’smostfamed Echo Caves Pass Nelshoogte Waterval 36 33 R Boven R N 2 Abel 17 Pass N Piet Retief R541 36

Amsterdam Pilgrim's Rest

R Long Tom Pongola Pass R526 Pass Sabie Songimvelo Blyde River Canyon NR 33 Lundzi R Sandlane

White River Rv Ὀ ὈὈὈ ὈὈ ὈὈὈ ὈὈ ὈὈὈ GR Kowyns Pass Vryheid K WAZUL-NT Barberton Oshoek 40 R Nelspruit 40 Josefsdal R Graskop 40 R 40 38

R 60miles 100km 0 0

R Bhunya Crocodile Hazyview Mgwenya Mahamba Pass Saddleback Sand Kl

MBABANE a Phalaborwa Bulembu ser International ie River Mpumalanga Boondocks S WAZILND R536 Airport Piggs Peak

Kruger T River i m Olifants River b Numbi Gate a Manzini

R569 v a t i Matsamo R570

Jeppe's Reef R i River lonelyplanet.com v e

Kruger NP r

Gate Malelane

N S R571 4

Lavumisa a

Siteki Namaacha

b

Pongolapoort i Komatipoort e

Bend Big Moamba R

N

2

Dam i v

e

Lebombo r Mountains Nova Lake

N 2 N E U Q I B M A Z O M 3 metres away. scents of thebushare more never thanafew thesoundsand when yousticktothetarmac, bikeand mountain andhikingtrails.Even fer there tokeep itrough, are also4WDtracks, lonelyplanet.com able onboth sides). areinternational border crossing (visas avail- at theGiriyondo Gate, which doubles asan possible toenter Kruger from Mozambique in theVenda region. Inaddition,it is now fromThohoyandou far north,isaccessed Trichardt); and ( 6509) the BlydeRiver area. west, isconvenient ifyou’re coming from main rest camp. Gate toSkukuza,Kruger’s isthe closest theN4beforeoff Nelspruit);Paul Kruger gates are fromHazyview easilyaccessed (turn ( Jo’burg. The Both are readily accessiblefromtheN4 735 6152) park’s southernedge are Olifants,TimbavatiLetaba, andSabie. Shingwedzi,include theLimpopo,Luvuvhu, rivers flowingacrossKruger fromwesttoeast the eastalongMozambiqueborder. Major risingupto Mountains with theLebombo undulating covers themajority of thepark, is achain of private wildlife reserves. unfencedwest, andsharingthesame terrain, about 350kmlong.Rimmingtheparkto south. Itaverages about 65kmacross,andis to thewestandMpumalanga Mozambique totheeast,LimpopoProvince Kruger isalong,narrowwedge bordered by ORIENTATION enveloping. andwildernessatmospheresetting are all- centrations are somewhatlower,thebush Maria andPafuri. Here, animalcon- although at itsbestinthefarnorth,aroundPunda centrations andtheeasiestaccess.Kruger is tion of animalcon- thepark,withhighest anothervehicle.without seeing roads, it’seasytotravel foranhourormore north of Phalaborwa Gate andalonggravel ends andschool holidays,orsticktoareas % % There are 10 Terrain rangingfromtheflattogently Southern Kruger isthemostpopularsec- Additionally, aslongyouavoid week- 013-735 6870) 013-735 58-12) isnearest toPolokwane; and Crocodile Bridge isreached viaMakhado (Louis Numbi and MPUMALANGA ••EasternLowveld Pafuri heks Orpen Paul Kruger

( % (entrygates). Onthe (

( % % Phalaborwa 013-735 5133) 013-735 6888) 013-735 6355) Malelane

( % (

% Punda Maria 013-735 6012) 013-735 5107)

( % ,

( Phabeni , inthe , tothe % 013-735 013- .

southwestern theOlifants and corner between River.Luvuvhu is prolificalongthe rivers andnorthof the smaller predators are allwidespread. Bird life monkeys, cheetahs, leopardsandother vervet kudus,waterbucks, baboons,wildebeests, Burchell’s zebras,blue Impalas, buffaloes, 6.30 Wildlife are fenced). you canbefinedfordoingso(the camps 5.30/4.30 It’s anoffence toarrive late atacampand Nov &Dec 6 6/5.30 5.30 Oct 6 close(pm) 6 Sep 6 6.30 May-Aug Apr 6 open(am) 6 5.30 Mar 6.30 Feb 5.30 Jan 4.30/5 6.30 Month Gates/camps Gates/camps follows: andarecording totheseason, currently as within thepark. authorities restrict numberof thetotal visitors if you’re theyear,park camping).Throughout and atanyonerest campforfive days(10 intheparkforamaximumofcan stay 10days, to enter thepark.Duringschool holidaysyou applies toKruger. The SANParks (see WildCard p412 ) also Community(SADC)nationals. Development zens andresidents, andforSouthAfrican discounts available forSouthAfricanciti- US$16/8 peradult/child, withsignificant Day orovernight entrytotheparkcosts Entry ings are butnotessential. advisable andweekends,Christmas andEaster) book- TownandDurban. Cape directly tourismoffices inNelspruit, through Pretoria) St, Muckleneuk, Parks Accommodation canbebooked through Bookings INFORMATION Bicycles andmotorcyclesare notpermitted (school holidays, season inthehigh Except Rainfall is highest (700mm ayear)inthe ishighest Rainfall ac- Entry gate openingtimesvaryslightly

( % 012-428 9111;www.parks-sa.co.za; 643Leyds . It’salsopossibletobook

529

SAN SOUTH AFRICA AFRICA SOUTH ὈὈὈ ὈὈὈὈ ὈὈ ὈὈὈὈ ὈὈὈὈὈ ὈὈὈὈ ὈὈὈ ὈὈὈ

SOUTH AFRICA 530 (130km) To Polokwane To Makhado(90km) To Thohoyandou(18km) R527 Giyani R540 (343km) To Jo'burg Hans Merensky CanyonNR 81 Blyde River Airport 4 R 6 1 3 2 Mutale Limpopo 5 KRUGER NATIONALPARK MKIA 71 Tshiturapadsi Hoedspruit R Mavamba Sabie River Groot Letaba River Kampersrus WA NR NP GR FR CA LEGEND NR

Sabie R532 Namakgale Mica Graskop Nkomo MPUMALANGA ••EasternLowveld R531

Masisi R524 Shingwedzi

R537 L IMPO River R530 Kiepersol Hazyview Pafuri

Rv Gate Wilderness Area Nature Reserve National Park Game Reserve Forest Reserve Conservation Area Nelspruit Luvuvhu Lulekani The Peak Phalaborwa

(2231m) ὈὈ ὈὈ 40 River R Eastgate Airport Z IMBAWE 40 White River A R Phabeni Gate Numbi Klaserie Gate Punda Maria 28 8 Gate

Phalaborwa Gateway Airport Kruger Park Sand River Sand Kruger Marite

River Orpen (666m) N Gate 4 NP Newu Gate 27 13 Pafuri

35 Letaba 32 6 Newington Manyeleti

5 Hlamala 7 16 Sengwe 2 Olifants Babalala GR

M PUALNG River 26 22 S WAZIL A ND R536

R569 River Malapati 40km 20miles 0 0 11 24 23 Sabie SandGR 18 1 Paul Kruger 14 Mooiplaas 38

R570 33 River Gate M OZABIQUE 37

21 avati

Malelane Timb 15 Gate

Sweni River Tshokwane 30 29 36 19 Crocodile B Komatipoort Bridge Nwamanzi Gate Giriyondo 17 31

25 River 12 Massingir 20 9 Dam Sango Eileen Orpen 34 R571 Dam 3 10

4 Lebombo Mountains elands, roans andsables. Olifants River, and isalsoeaten bytsessebes, elephants, which are mostcommon north of is mopani.Themopani isafavoured foodof drops below500mm andthedominanttree and bluewildebeests. particularly lions,whoprey onimpalas,zebras and blackrhinos.Joiningthemare predators, lations of giraffes impalas,zebras,wildebeests, (600mm). Inthisregion there are large popu- dile River, experiencesreasonable rainfall restSatara campandsouthtotheCroco- of theOlifantsRiver ontheplainsaround by predators. is lessfavoured byantelope and,therefore, favoured but by white rhinos andbuffaloes, Crocodile Rivers. Thisterrain isparticularly Talamati BushveldCamp...... Skukuza RestCamp...... Sirheni BushveldCamp...... Singita LebomboLodge...... Shingwedzi RestCamp...... Shimuwini BushveldCamp...... Satara RestCamp...... Roodewal BushLodge...... Rhino PostCamp...... Punda MariaRestCamp...... Pretoriuskop RestCamp...... Orpen RestCamp...... Olifants RestCamp...... Mopani RestCamp...... Maroela SatelliteCamp...... Malelane SatelliteCamp...... Lukimbi SafariLodge...... Lower SabieRestCamp...... Letaba RestCamp...... Jock SafariLodge...... Crocodile BridgeRestCamp...... Boulders BushLodge...... Biyamiti BushveldCamp...... Berg-en-dal RestCamp...... Bateleur BushveldCamp...... Balule SatelliteCamp...... Wolhuter Trail...... Sweni Trail...... Olifants Trail...... Nyalaland Trail...... Northern PlainsAdventureTrail...... Nonokani AdventureTrail...... Napi Trail...... Metsimetsi Trail...... Mananga AdventureTrail...... Madlabantu AdventureTrail...... Bushman Trail...... Avis...... (see 36) Tamboti SatelliteCamp...... TRANSPORT SLEEPING TRAILS North of theOlifantsRiver therainfall ofThe eastern section thepark,to thesouth lonelyplanet.com 38 37 36 35 34 33 32 31 30 29 28 27 26 25 24 23 22 21 20 19 18 17 16 15 14 13 12 11 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 B4 B4 B5 A2 B4 B2 A3 B4 B4 B5 A2 A5 B4 B4 B3 B4 B6 B6 B5 B3 B5 B6 A3 B6 B6 A2 B4 B6 B5 B4 A2 A1 A4 A5 B5 B4 A5 B6 Book accommodationBook online at lonelyplanet.com eastern boundary of thepark.Thetraillasts rugged 500km4WDrouterough, alongthe There iswoodland,bushveld, grassplains at PundaMaria) thanthemopanicountry. to700mm rainfall(close which hasahigher far northaroundPundaMaria andPafuri, lonelyplanet.com in themorning. better chance wildlife of onthe move seeing accompanied byarmed rangers. Youhave a Lower SabieandPretoriuskop. Allwalksare larger Skukuza, camps,includingSatara, person US$30/24) and afternoon thanthedrives areBetter guided morning Bush Walks want todrive. booked onthemorningof theday thatyou All are after rains, andcanonlybe closed Trail Adventure Madlabantu Gate); camp); are: (and thepointswhere them) youcanreserve vehicle plusaUS$14refundable deposit.They ing aboutfourhours, andcostingUS$62per accompanies you). the trail(plusvehicle of theranger who Only five vehicles are permitted atatimeon to provide yourownvehicle, foodanddrink. mum of fourpeoplepervehicle). You’llneed five daysandcostsUS$668pervehicle (maxi- 4WD trailsisthe The longest of andmostestablished Kruger’s 4WD Trails camps. and drives canbebooked fromthegate and by awater hole,river orlake. Bushwalks of timeforsimplysittingstill–preferably Allowplenty days, andideallyatleastaweek. in aday,theparkmeritsatleastfourtofive forKruger it’spossibletoget Although asense ACTIVITIES the CrocodileRiver onthesouthernborder. areasmost prominentamongthese isalong there are stillareas thatsupportwildlife. The continent. ably oneof thebestbirdingareas onthe Rivers, atropicalriverine forest. It’sargu- andLimpopo theLuvuvhu and, between Perhaps themostinteresting area isinthe There are alsofourshorter trails,all averag- Note outsidetheparkborders thateven Northern Plains Adventure Trail PlainsAdventure Northern Mananga Adventure Trail Adventure Mananga Nonokani Adventure Trail Adventure Nonokani , which are possibleatallthe MPUMALANGA ••EasternLowveld bush walks Lebombo Motorised EcoTrail Lebombo Motorised (Pretoriuskop camp).

(morning/afternoon per (morning/afternoon (Satara camp); (Satara (Phalaborwa (Shingwedzi , a .co.za) Drakensberg initsKruger itineraries. (camp sites forone totwopeopleUS$14) is erator andfan. all of which are furnished andhave arefrig- in safari the nextstep upinbothcomfortandprice. tages (aboutUS$121foruptofourpeople)are people) range fromsimpletoluxurious; cot- bungalows (aroundUS$64toUS$72 fortwo ablutions andcommunalcooking facilities; people) are thecheapest option,withshared more rustic, withoutanyfacilities. away,andareare somedistance set much of therest campshave satellite camps, which shops, restaurants andotherfacilities.Several other stylesof accommodation,as wellas of huts,bungalowsandcottages andseveral offercamps. These camping,plusarange Most visitors inoneof stay thepark’s12rest SLEEPING &EATING half board. and Kruger forUS$570perperson, including day panoramatours intheBlydeRiver taking is fees andmeals.Anothergoodbudget option Kruger fromabout US$60perday,plusentry (see Graskop and p538 p533) (see ) allof which canorganise tours into Nelspruit p535), are thebackpacker lodges inHazyview (see At thebudget thebestplacestocontact level, TOURS ( centralreservations ings through p529 ). No children under12are allowed.Make book- The walksshouldbebooked wellinadvance. huts,plusfoodandequipment. tic, pleasant per person, includingaccommodationinrus- day andSundayafternoon. TheycostUS$340 and three withdepartures nights, onWednes- modest pace. strenuous, covering about 20kmperdayata armed guides.Thewalksare notparticularly knowledgeablepeople), andguidedbyhighly are doneinsmallgroups(maximumeight experience.the SouthernAfricansafari They andamajorthe park’shighlights, attractionof Kruger’s wildernesswalkingtrailsare oneof Wilderness Trails African Routes African Wildlife Safaris Some campsalsooffer theoptionof staying Huts (aroundUS$32toUS$39fortwo For those withtents orcaravans,For those camping Most wildernesstrailwalkslasttwodays , which alsoincludesSwazilandandthe

tents (aboutUS$32fortwopeople),

(

% (www.wildlifesaf.co.za) 031-563 5080;www.africanroutes hasfour-

531 SOUTH AFRICA AFRICA SOUTH SOUTH AFRICA .saexpress.co.za) Kruger, is thegateway fornorthernKruger. away. Phalaborwa, inthe north ontheedge of 50km away,andMalelane Gate about65km from Jo’burg (see p534 ). NumbiGate isabout toand andminibus taxis bybuses served venient large townnearKruger, andiswell For mostvisitors, Nelspruitisthe most con- Bus &MinibusTaxi Town. hours), withconnectionstoCape Airport (US$175,1½ Eastgate Hoedspruit while DurbanandMKIA(US$190,1½hours),tween 1111; www.flysaa.com) MKIA (US$300,2¼hours). Townto MKIA (US$160,onehour);Cape Phalaborwa (US$175,onehour);Jo’burg to one-way fares times:Jo’burg andflight to borwa (2kmfromPhalaborwa Gate). Some with Kruger Park Gateway AirportinPhala- Malelane andCrocodileBridge Gates), and Airport (MKIA)nearNelspruit(forNumbi, Town withMpumalangaKruger International linkingbothJo’burgdaily flights andCape SAAirlink Air THERE&AROUND GETTING Nelspruit ( opposite ). best placesforthisare Hazyview ( p535 ) and outside thepark.Forbudget travellers, the west ( right ). Anotherpossibilityistostay borderingKruger tothe the private reserves very luxuriousaccommodationinmanyof maximum of sixpeople. ple, plusUS$25peradditionalperson, toa range fromUS$106toUS$120forfourpeo- in theirentirety byasinglegroup.Prices middle of thewilderness,andmustbebooked and twobush lodges, which are inthe set ing cottages withoutshopsorrestaurants) (smaller, more remote clusters of self-cater- camps. bush walkscanbearranged atallof therest an ATM atSkukuza. Wildlife drives and and wedzi; banksatSkukuzaandLetaba; Lower Sabie,Skukuza,MopaniandShing- (a converted naturalrockpool),Berg-en-dal, generally necessary. available atmanyrest camps;bookingisnot 532 At theopposite endof thespectrum,there’s There are alsofive bushveld camps There are swimming poolsatPretoriuskop South African Airways South African MPUMALANGA ••EasternLowveld South African Express South African

( % flies daily between Jo’burg fliesdailybetween and 011-978 1111;www.saairlink.co.za) flies six times weekly be- fliessixtimesweekly

( %

( % 086-035 9722,011-978 011-978 5577;www has all-inclusive rfromUS$800; are based on the high season rate.) season are onthe high based son sharing, all-inclusive. (Priceslisted here from aroundUS$270toover US$800perper- andmostarein theprivate pricey– reserves park are also athomehere. BigFivethe same populationsthatroamthe directly borderKruger (withnofences), and Sabie Sand,Manyeleti andTimbavati – – experience inthepark.Themainreserves comparable wildlife-watching towhatyou’ll Kruger isastringof thatoffer private reserves Spreading over avastlowveld area justwestof Reserves Wildlife Private Kruger’s CrocodileBridge Gate. class US$25/17/9),which isabout12kmfrom Nelspruit toKomatipoort(1st/2nd/economy The Train gest camps. Kruger. There are atthebig- petrolstations park, andthisisthebestwaytoexperience and Phalaborwa airports. pruit, Hoedspruit Skukuza, andthere iscarrental fromtheNels- Avis and PundaMaria hours). about 620km(eight Skukuza is500kmfromJo’burg (sixhours) Car private lodges. has emergedHoedspruit asthegateway tothe more inthisarea. lodges andsmaller reserves Reserve Game all-inclusive rfromUS$1100; Reserve Game Reserve withinthelargeinclude those find agooddeal.Thebetter-known reserves toatravelworth talking agent tohelpyou running tours intotheprivate parkssoit’s guided trip.There are hundreds of operators watching before you headtoKruger foraself- rangers cantrainyouintheartof wildlife reserve. are simply lodges insideadesignated wildlife They’re not.They themselves ‘gamereserves’. Note that manyof placeslike these tocall to experiencethebushinlapof luxury. and are whowant the placetogoforthose connoisseurs, best opportunitiesforsafari Because of attention, thepersonalised safari Because The private reserves offer amongAfrica’s The private reserves There are around200 lodges andcamps Most visitors drive themselves aroundthe

( Komati %

(http://sabi.krugerpark.co.za) 013-735 5651;www.avis.co.za) ( p596 ) runsfromJo’burg via

( ( % % 011-442 2267;www.malamala.com; 011-119 4300;www.londolozi.com; as as ) . There are many , lonelyplanet.com ) and Londolozi Private Private Londolozi hasabranch at Sabie Sand Game Sabie SandGame Mala Mala Mala Mala Book accommodationBook online at lonelyplanet.com dile River Valley in thesteamy, subtropical provincial sprawlsalongtheCroco- capital, Nelspruit, Mpumalanga’s largest townand % Nelspruit lonelyplanet.com Lowveld Tourism Lowveld INFORMATION tion of yourplunge. whileyouconsiderthenextdirec-your stuff makingitagoodplacetosortout taurants, accom modation optionsand plentyof res- lowveld. There are somegood,affordable parks. forallnational bookings takes at NelspruitCrossingMall h DanPienaar Sts; .info; cnrGeneral &LouisTrichardt To Johannesburg(335km)

4 1 3 2 Kaapschehoop St Crocodile NELSPRUIT 013 /pop235,000 8am-5pm Mon-Fri, to1pmSat)Thishelpfuloffice 8am-5pm Mon-Fri, Koraalboom St N 4 River Koorsboom AC ( MPUMALANGA ••EasternLowveld %

St 013-755 1988/9;www.lowveld International Airport(28km) To MpumalangaKruger

To UtopiainAfrica (1km); Barberton (40km) viaR40 Old Pretoria Rd Pretoria Old

General Dan Pienaar St 1 B ueg us og...... B3 Auberge GuestLodge...... SLEEPING INFORMATION Nelspruit Backpackers...... Mozambique Consulate...... Lowveld Tourism...... ὈὈὈ ὈὈὈ de Villiers St Sarel Louis Trichardt St 40 R 3

Cilliers Piet Retief Andries

Pretorius 4 Nel St Nel of avisaattheborder. visaprocessingforUS$11–halftheprice Does same-day 32BellSt; [email protected]; Andrew St US$5.50, dmUS$9.50,s/dwithshared bathroomUS$18/24; 102Van.funkymonkeys.co.za; WijkSt;campsitesperperson canorganise itineraries inthearea.safaris, BusstopanditstravelBaz wing,Mbombela Rooms have recently upgraded.It’sa been comfortandlocation. best combinesservice, s US$5.50, dmUS$9.50,s/dwithshared bathroomUS$18/24; St;campsitesperperson Pretorius hotmail.com; 9Andries NelspruitBackpackers SLEEPING Consulate Mozambique Anderson St Funky Monkey Backpackers Funky Monkey

) Paul Kruger St Kruger Paul AmongNelspruit’sbackpackers, this one

8 Voortrekker St Voortrekker

Nel St Potgieter St Potgieter 5 Nelspruit

Sonheuwel Brown St

Reserve Nature 4 3 2 1

Rothery St Rothery

2 St Henshall

C3 C2 B3 Russell St Russell 10

Nelspruit Ferreira St Ferreira TRANSPORT EATING iiu aiPr...... C2 Minibus TaxiPark...... TicketOffices...... Villa Italia...... Mozart's TeaGarden...... Keg &Jock...... Costa doSol...... Intercape, Greyhound&Translux

Streak St Bell St Plaza

Bester St 0.4miles 600m 0 0 Nel St Nel Branders St Brown St 9

Van Wijk St Van der Merwe St Currie St Currie (

( Ὀ St Jones % % 7

Britz

Emhke St Emhke

Drysdale St Drysdale 013-752 7396; 013-741 2237;nelback@ St St Mostert Van Riebeeck (

h

Murray St Murray Venter St %

6 Marloth St Marloth Park

8am-2pm Mon-Fri) 8am-2pm Mon-Fri) 083-310 4755;www Backpackers (600m); Ave Sheppard

D

To FunkyMonkey Old VicTravellers Ferreira St Ferreira To Komatipoort Inn (1km)

du Preez 10 9 8 7 6 5 (128km) St C2 C2 D3 D3 C2 533

N 4 SOUTH AFRICA AFRICA SOUTH SOUTH AFRICA 2531; www.saairlink.co.za) Sat) Paul Kruger Sts;mealsUS$5.50-7; house, andasmallyard. house, roomsinthemain withcomfortable house packers, with self-catering facilitiesormeals packers, withself-catering terminal canbearranged. Busstop,andpick-upsfromthebus is aBaz It’salittlefarfromtown,butit friendly staff. braaiarea withapooltable, cious house, and items onoffer ifyouare not. a diet.Ofcourse, there’s alsoafew fattening Mozart’s isagoodplacetogoifyou are on 750 2531;www.flysaa.com) with flights commercialairport.Thereclosest are daily code MQP; Airport Mpumalanga KrugerInternational Air THERE &AROUND GETTING Sat) Van lightmealsUS$3.40-5;breakfast &lunchMon- derMerwe; and Fridaynights. side patio. There’s live musiconWednesday a lively placewithgoodpubfoodandastreet- hang-outinNelspruit,theKegnight &Jockis US$4; cuisine. classic Portuguese goodsoupsand featuring seafood, Villa Italia fare.of pizzasandotherItalian goodpastas, awiderange long-time localfavourite serves Kruger Sts;mainsUS$4.70-8; Italia Villa EATING Sonheuwel Nature Reserve. Thisoneoverlooks the and friendlyservice. exquisite décor guestvillawiththoughtful .com; 6DaleenSt;s/dwithbreakfast US$57/97; centre Busstop. nearaBaz tion onthearea. It’sabout 3km southof the on request, tents for rent and lotsof informa- is cottagesUS$57; bathroom US$40/34,4-personself-catering .krugerandmore.co.za; 12ImpalaSt;dmUS$12,dwith/without US$38/52; .aubergeguestlodge.com; 3deVilliersSt;s/dwithbreakfast is 534 Utopia inAfrica Utopia Inn Travellers Old Vic GuestLodge Auberge Mozart’s Tea Garden Mozart’s Keg &Jock Keg Costa doSol Offering awidevarietyof Offering healthyfoods, placeopposite AquaintlittlePortuguese h MPUMALANGA ••EasternLowveld ) ) Afriendly,somewhatupscaleback- Apopular,well-runplaceinaspa- % lunch &dinner) s

( % 013-753 7500;www.kmiairport.co.za) ) A quiet, well-maintained guest- Aquiet,well-maintained

( South African Airways South African %

013-752 5780; cnr Louis Trichardt &Paul013-752 5780;cnrLouisTrichardt ( % (

013-755 4969;Ferriera St;mainsfrom % 013-752 6382; cnr Louis Trichardt & 013-752 6382;cnrLouisTrichardt toJo’burg (US$160; one Probablythebestlate- 013-745 7714;www.utopiainafrica

( and %

( h ( 013-755 2287;cnrFerreira & % % h SAAirlink lunch &dinner) 013-741 2866;www 013-744 0993;www lunch &dinnerMon-

(SAA;

( as % % 013-750

isthe This (MKIA; An 013- ) (US$1.40, five hours). Komatipoort (US$6,twohours) andJo’burg one hour),Graskop(US$3.40,1½hours), Sabie (US$2,onehour),Hazyview (US$2.30, (US$1.80,40minutes),minutes), Barberton and fares includeWhite River (US$0.90,20 Nelspruit Plaza. destinations Minibustaxi parkisbehind The localbusandminibustaxi Minibus Taxi Promenade Mall. offices for Jo’burg orUS$19toMaputo. The andcharges US$20toUS$24 best service Greyhoundspruit. Amongthese, offers the toria) andMaputo (Mozambique)viaNel- all operate Jo’burg dailybetween (andPre- and Greyhound in town. (Swaziland), andstopsatallthebackpackers Nelspruit withJo’burg/Pretoria andManzini Baz Bus Bus Town. withJo’burg times weekly andCape several tionwideair.co.za) Kruger (47km) Gates. to thePhabeni (12km),Numbi (15km)orPaul overnight stopbefore theearlymorning dash facilities, butconsider itlittlemore thanan Kruger NationalPark. There are reasonable centre andgateway fornearby acts asaservice Strung outalongRte 40,thetownof Hazyview % Hazyview Jo’burg andKomatipoort viaNelspruit. The Train per person). and ORTambo International Airport(US$24 a three-times-daily Nelspruit shuttle between to Durban(US$51perperson oneway)and shuttle langa International Airport,aweekly to/from Kruger Mpuma- a chauffeur service US$2.80 perperson door-to-door. Italsohas intownfor ates aconvenient shuttleservice Durban (US$240;1½hours). Town(US$275;2¼ hours) and hour), Cape City Bug Intercape Nationwide Airlines 013 /pop20,000 Komati Translux

(Louis Trichardt St) (Louis Trichardt ( %

( % 021-439 2323;www.bazbus.com) (

Book accommodationBook online at lonelyplanet.com % ( (see (see p596 ) runsdailybetween

% flights alsoconnectNelspruit flights ( 013-741 4114;www.citybug.co.za) % 013-753 2100;www.greyhound.co.za) 086-1287 287;www.intercape.co.za) 013-755 1453;www.translux.co.za)

are together opposite ( % 086-173 7737;www.na lonelyplanet.com connects oper- ticket ticket ,

other spacious,somewhatrusticplace,with www.gecko-bushpackers.co.za; dmUS$9.50,dwith/without www.gecko-bushpackers.co.za; Book accommodationBook online at lonelyplanet.com try tourist office try tourist (US$2.80, onehour)andSabie Centre. Sat, 9am-1pmSun) 013-737 8191;www.big5country.com; lonelyplanet.com Swaziland. you’re travelling to/from Mozambiqueor dile Bridge Gate. It’saconvenient stopif away fromKruger NationalPark’s Croco- Komati andCrocodile Rivers andonly10km near the confluenceofombo Mountains, the This bordertownisatthefootof theLeb- % Komatipoort one hour). about US$2. do organise pick-upsfromNelspruit (US$13 fromJo’burg). Thebackpacker places stops attheShell inHazyview petrolstation bus City toCity’sdailyJo’burg–Acornhoek THERE&AWAYGETTING turn-off fromRte 40. in thearea. Toget here, take theUmbhaba with majestic views andfree-roaming wildlife inthebush about13kmfromKruger,place set s/d cottagesUS$70/114) Rte 538. It’s 3kmupfromthejunctionof Rte 40and toKruger.with cookingfacilitiesandsafaris popular backpackers isinawoodedsetting dm/dUS$10/24; www.big5backpackers.co.za; also bearranged. area andapool table. Mealsa self-catering can dorm rooms,somedoubles,shaded camping, is about2.5kmfromHazyview. Ithasbright ing andcosybackpackers inthearea, Gecko bathroom US$25/23; Kruger’s NumbiGate. way stop,andabout500malongtheroadto or Zuluhuts.It’sabout 2kmsouthof thefour- trips toKruger andaccommodationindorms dm US$10,dhutswithshared bathroomUS$18; campsitesperpersonUS$5.50, .krugerparkbackpackers.com; Kruger Park Backpackers SLEEPING For informationstopbythe Minibus taxis godailytoNelspruitMinibus taxis Thulamela Big 5Backpackers &Campsite Bushpackers Gecko 013 /pop4700

( % intheRendezvousTourism

MPUMALANGA ••EasternLowveld s ( 013-737 7171;www.thulamela.co.za; % An upscale, comfortable Anupscale,comfortable

) Perhaps themostwelcom- ( % 013-737 7414,inPerry’s Bridge 013-737 7534,083-5246615;

( % 013-737 7224;www h

( % 8am-5pm Mon- Big 5Coun- 013-737 8140; si s This ) An- ) 712 2707;www.fountainbaths.co.za; 48Pilgrim St;cottages braai area anddoubleroomswithTV. meals from US$3.40; with burgers, and other basics. salads isagood budgetopposite themuseum choice, h Pan Co-co EATING private bathroom,andgoodviews. rooms,including somewith with pleasant up asteep hilljustsoutheastof Market Sq, 1 KloofSt;s/dwithbreakfast US$27/49; catering cottages. per personUS$27) & Tate Sts;dUS$20-34) chalets. areas, campingandself-catering the towncentre, withlotsof shadeandgrassy This caravan parkisconveniently to close US$8, caravansitesUS$11,s/d/trcottages23/34/43; St;campsitesperperson General www.barbertonchalets.co.za; Park Chalets&Caravan Barberton SLEEPING the area. tion, tours of historicsites anddayhikes in the towncentre canassistwithaccommoda- St; ( along inarelaxed countrymanner. prominence declinedandthetownplods first stockexchange. Barberton’s However, was aboomtownandhometoSouthAfrica’s gold rush daysof thelate 19thcentury,whenit The splendidtownof dates tothe Barberton % Barberton forUS$24. side youcanbuyavisa dures are fairlyswift and ontheMozambique you’re drivingontoMozambique,exitproce- (Mozambique; US$9,1½totwohours). If KomatipoortandMaputothe runbetween near theScore supermarket, andregularly do large clippedgroundsandapopularpub. plain stucco-and-thatch chalets around set chaletsUS$120/142; 5-/7-personself-catering s/dwithbreakfast US$35/62, www.komatiriverchalets.co.za; % Fountain BathsHolidayGuestCottages Bye Apart Ate Bye Apart Chill Inn The helpful Chalets Komati River Kloof House leaveMinibus taxis fromjustoff RissikSt h 5.30-9pm Mon-Sat,5.30-8pm Sun) 013 /pop29,500 013-712 2121; www.barberton.co.za; Market Sq,Crown Market 013-712 2121;www.barberton.co.za; 7.30am-4.30pm Mon-Fri, 9am-4pmSat&Sun) 7.30am-4.30pm Mon-Fri,

(

% ( % 013-712 2653;CrownSt;mainsUS$3.40-5;

013-712 3477,082-7336755;cnrDeVilliers ( This pleasant placehasself- Thispleasant %

( h Thiswelcominghotel hasa % 013-712 4268;www.kloofhuis.co.za; Tourist InformationCentre Tourist 9am-9pm Wed-Mon, to5pmTue) 013-712 2846; 27DeVilliersSt; (

% 013-793 7623,082-3474669; Thiscasualeatery i

( % AcosyB&B ) 013-712 3323; as

( % 535 has s ) 013- in

)

SOUTH AFRICA AFRICA SOUTH SOUTH AFRICA the escarpment and meeting theBlydeRiverthe escarpmentandmeeting which snakes northfromGraskop,following with amazing vistas andbatterieswith amazing vistas of souvenir God’s Window north alongRte 534(aloop off Rte 532)are jutting outfromthe escarpment.Justtothe for the ing onfoot. but ifyouhave thetime,it’swell worthexplor- with stopsatthemanywonderfulviewpoints, visitors drive alongthe edge of thecanyon, itswaydowntothelowveld. Most as itcarves Reserve Nature Canyon is rimmedbythe26,000-hectare most impressive naturalfeatures. Much of it nearly 30kmlongandoneof SouthAfrica’s The BlydeRiver’s canyonis spectacular Canyon Blyde River ing thearea. car hire isthebestoptionforreally explor- thegoingisslow; around viaminibustaxi, Whileit’spossibletoget season. during high parts of thecountry,andinvariably fillsup accommodation ispricierthaninsomeother prime holidayterritory, which meansthat abundance of adventure activities.It’salso nic areas, marked bystunningviewsandan lowveld. It’soneof SouthAfrica’smostsce- 1000m, before spillingoutontotheeastern point where thehighveld plunges downover or theTransvaalDrakensberg) marksthe here isknownastheKleinDrakensberg The DrakensbergKLEIN DRAKENSBERG Escarpment(thesection morning, by8am. (40 minutes). Mostdepartures are intheearly Nelspruit road).Thefare toNelspruitisUS$2 park nearEmjindini(3kmfromtownonthe rite, butit’sbetter togotheminibustaxi A few stopintownnearShop- minibustaxis THERE&AWAYGETTING andfastfood. sandwiches tourist informationoffice. Themenufeatures and watch thepassing parade. It’snexttothe 2pm Sat) 4985; lightmealsfromUS$3.40; steak,pasta, porkorlambchops. relaxed, welcomingatmosphere. from Choose the oldsystem andwhatyou’llfindisavery to send-off The themeisatongue-in-cheek 536 Heading northfromGraskop,lookfirst Victorian Tea &Restaurant Garden Victorian MPUMALANGA •• Klein Drakensberg MPUMALANGA ••KleinDrakensberg Thegazebohere isagreat spottorelax Pinnacle and , animpressive rockformation Wonder View – Wonder View (admission perpersonUS$2.80) h 8am-5pm Mon-Fri, to 8am-5pm Mon-Fri, two viewpoints

( Blyde River Blyde River % 013-712 , Potholes; there are somebeautifulwaterfalls atBourke’s powerstation Luck hydroelectric takes youinacircularroute totheBelvedere ( dere DayWalk dere end of thetrail. tosortoutonwardtransportfromthe need ing office atBourke’s LuckPotholes. You’ll % ing thatothers paidUS$7.Theydidn’t.). (they willshow youadoctored record show- iftheydemandUS$7 pay themUS$0.70even themselvesguides thatattach toyou.Only waryof thevolunteer Be echo when tapped. get theirnamefromdripstoneformationsthat Stone-Age relics have found.Thecaves been Rte 36,are walks inthesurroundingarea. of thecanyon.There are anumberof short like pointed ‘roofs’ risingoutof thefarwall Rondavels you’ll reach aviewpointoverlooking the holes andintotheheartof thenature reserve, canyon. entrance fee andfindinformationabout the ( and Treuer Rivers. There’s a whirlpools neartheconfluenceof theBlyde intotherockby cylindrical holeswere carved here, near it intheafternoon). (or ifyouare comingbacktoGraskop,catch detour 2kmsouthtotheimpressive nature reserve. good alternative inor aroundthe istostay Rest. Ifyou’re continuing furthernorth,a day jauntfromGraskop, SabieorPilgrim’s It’s easytoexplore thecanyon bycarasa SLEEPING be madeatPotholes. and rockpoolsonthiswalk.Bookings should the be madethrough at Bourke’s LuckPotholes.Bookingsshould which beginsatParadise andfinishes Camp Trail Hiking Canyon BlydeRiver The mainroute isthepopularandvery scenic HIKING % the rainforest (300steps). AtGod’sWindowtakesellers. thetrailupto The shortbutreasonably strenuous The BlydeRiver northof canyonstarts West of andoff here, outsidethereserve Continuing northpastBourke’s LuckPot- 013-759 5432;[email protected]) When youreturn toRte 532,take ashort 013-769 6019) –huge cylinders of rock withhut- Bourke’s LuckPotholes Bourke’s Book accommodationBook online at lonelyplanet.com (admissionUS$0.70;five hours Echo Caves , where youcanpaythereserve (admissionUS$3.40) Mpumalanga Parks Board (US$8;2½days), , oratthebook- lonelyplanet.com . These bizarre. These visitor’s centre Lisbon Falls where Belve- Three )

white-water andmore. rafting,abseiling Blyde River. Theresort canorganise hiking, alongthe at thenorthernendof thereserve here is made more appealingbyitslocation Book accommodationBook online at lonelyplanet.com self-catering chaletUS$70; self-catering .aventura.co.za; campsitesUS$8,plusperpersonUS$4,6-person lonelyplanet.com .aventura.co.za; campsitesUS$15plusperpersonUS$3;2-/4- in Limpopoprovince. trips. TheeasiestaccessisfromHoedspruit you organise bird-watching andbotanical with viewsover canalsohelp thelowveld. Staff justnorthwestofis inagoodsetting Swadini, rperpersonUS$20) with halfboardUS$39,self-catering campsitesperpersonUS$6,r .trackers.truepath.com; To Dullstroom(5km); (270km) (254km); To Pretoria Johannesburg Belfast (58km) (150km) To Polokwane DRAKENSBERG ESCARPMENT&EASTERNLOWVELD ὈὈ ὈὈ Aventura Resort Swadini Aventura Resort Aventura BlydeCanyon Trackers Rushworth’s

R577 Lydenburg Swartkop Steelpoort 36 R540 R NR Watervalsrivier Pass

36

R p River

C Kwena

Waterval-Boven i Dam Pass Patattanek es roc R555

pr Krugerspos od Spekb MPUMALANGA ••KleinDrakensberg u ile it Sterkspruit Ohrigstad

Lydenburg

Gustav Klingbiel

River Echo Caves oom Erasmus JG Strijdom NR

Rv Ὀ ὈὈ ὈὈ ὈὈ Tunnel Pass Schoemanskloof as Abel Pass

River Elands Valley NR

40

Houtbos R

( Long Mants Tom %

(2053m) Madunusa Pass

( M 37 R % ( %

Ohrigstad

Bike Trail Sudwala Caves (1984m) Spitzkop a

Dam NR Bridal VeilFalls

) Ceylon

n

Accommodation

Lone Creek Caspersnek hibi loop Prospector's Hiking Trail 015-795 5033;www k

Blyde Canyon 013-769 8005;www

e 015-795 5141;www

Falls

Mac-Mac Falls l Rv Blydeport

Montrose e

k Aventura R532 Rushworth's

Pass Hendriksdal

Falls e Blyde Pilgrim's

l Three Sisters

e Dam Nelspruit Robbers Trackers N 4 Rest Pass Forest Falls Kowyns Pass ὈὈὈὈ ὈὈὈὈ ὈὈὈὈ Horseshoe Falls R539 Mt Carmel Lisbon Aventura Paradise Falls Swadini (1271m)

Berlin Blyde Resort Falls This Rosehaugh Kaapschehoop Camp Canyon NR Blyde River Sabie London Falls Three Rondavels Sabie Falls Marepeskop

Witklip 37 Treur R532 R (1944m) Dam Mac-Mac Pools Hiking Trail Fanie Botha

To Barberton Ma Belvedere R536 Graskop

To Hoedspruit

R531 (20km) Blyde RiverCanyonVisitor'sCentre Bourke's LuckPotholes; c-Mac Rv The Pinnacle Blyde RiverCanyon View Wonder

area. Itoffers afullrange of resort amenities, convenient fordiscovering thesurrounding lar resort islocated justoff Rte 532,andis (13km) Kampersrus

Window God's .wildadventures.co.za; Pilgrim St; informationoffice tourist Escarpment are hardtobeat. nearby viewsover theedge of theDrakensberg slowly emerging asatouristdestination.The thequiettownofRiver Canyon, Graskop is toexplore base thedramaticBlyde A useful % Graskop hiking trails. including agolfcourse nearby,andhorse and

Sandspruit Rv Sandspruit Hiking Trail person self-catering chaletsUS$75/93; person self-catering Rv (2231m) The Peak Moholoholo The bestplacesforinformationare the 013 / pop 2000 / elevation 1450m 013 /pop2000elevation 37 R ὈὈὈ ὈὈὈ ὈὈὈ ὈὈὈ ὈὈὈ ὈὈὈ ὈὈὈ R537 Nelspruit Kapama

Wolhuter K

Kiepersol r Longmere Dam Joubert Da Gama Danie

Klaserie Dam o Project Cheetah White River Dam

Napi k

R535 Mut R533 Acornhoek o Jan WassenaarDam 40 R

Bushbuckridge d Bushman lum

i u

Forest Lodge Hlalanathi M l International Airport Nabana Park Mpumalanga Kruger vi

Hazyview o p nwana

o 40 R River Timb o River 40 R538 R a r v a t ὈὈ ὈὈ ti s Empakeni (1037m)

b Numbi Gate Sand ( e h % r R536 Orpen Gate

g Pretoriuskop 8.30am-5pm Mon-Sat) Orpen

013-767 1833;www Phabeni Gate

Berg-en-dal Sare 6miles 10km 0 0

Nsikasi River

s N 4 nwa

Komatipoort (36km)

Rv Rv Sabie Sand Private GR This popu- ) Kruger NP Manyeleti Malelane Park (10km); Paul Kruger GR To Marloth To Satara Gate Ὀ Ὀ Ὀ (31km) 537

, SOUTH AFRICA AFRICA SOUTH SOUTH AFRICA St; pancakes US$1.60-4; St; pancakes (US$2.40, onehour). utes), Sabie(US$2.40 minutes) andHazyview partures toPilgrim’sRest (US$1.40,30min- southern endof town,withdailymorningde- (Main stand The minibustaxi St)isatthe THERE &AWAYGETTING breakfasts andexcellentseafood. interior of aship,thisnewcomeroffers English US$5.50-8; influence. tional SouthAfricandishes withaMalay uptradi- yview, thislocalfavourite serves about 1kmoutof townontheroadtoHaz- 7 of meatsorvegetables. tasty maple syrup–mostare with a choice stuffed ofa stack buttermilk pancakes withbutter and Bar Pancake Harrie’s EATING trucks rollbyinthenight. area. Avoid roomsfacingthestreet astimber spacious rooms,bar,restaurant andlounge US$38/67) Sts;s/dwithbreakfast &LouisTrichardt cnrMain hotel.co.za; downstairs. modern roomsandacharming restaurant fast fromUS$28/49) St;s/[email protected]; LouisTrichardt adventure tours. flat.Theowners canorganise a self-catering variety of rooms,plusrondavels, tent sites and as rondavelUS$37; dm US$9.50,s/dfromUS$21/26,self-catering 47deLangeSt;campingUS$6, 1112; www.yebo-afrika.nl; National Park. canarrange great-valuestaff toKruger safaris communal feel andbackpacker vibe. The hasaveryacross thetrainline,Green Castle westofatmospheric oldhouse the centre US$16/22, withbathroomUS$20/27) per personUS$5.50,dmUS$8,s/dwithshared bathroom 63Eeufeeshome.global.co.za/~graskop; St;campsites Backpackers Castle Green SLEEPING Backpackers. inside Sparsupermarket andGreen Castle 538 h Autumn Breath Autumn Backpackers Graskop Valley View Boat House Southern Breeze Graskop Hotel dinner) MPUMALANGA •• Klein Drakensberg MPUMALANGA ••KleinDrakensberg ) ThisDutch-run backpackers hasa This is an efficient andcosyhotel with Thisisanefficient h Located intheMagodi Lodge 8am-9pm Tue-Sun) ( % ThisquaintB&Bhasthree

( ( h

% 013-767 1980; 7 Main St;meals 013-767 1980;7Main %

( ( % % 8am-5.30pm) 013-767 1244;www.graskop 013-767 1866,082-8772811; 013-767 1273; Louis Trichardt 013-767 1273;LouisTrichardt 082-890 2587;dishesUS$4-

( % Designed like the 013-767 1761;http:// Located inan Don’texpect

( % 013-767 rooms, hasadefinite partyatmosphere and with ahandfulof cleandoubles anddorm B&B isagoodchoice foratreat, witharched ventures. forSabieXtremepub. It’salsothebase Ad- amenities, includingcookingfacilitiesanda vibe’ withlotsof activitiesandalltheusual hasabusy‘backpackerpopular establishment dm US$9,dwithshared bathroomUS$20; St;campsitesperpersonUS$5.50, Main .sabiextreme.co.za; Lodge Sabie Backpackers SLEEPING rafting andbungee jumping. www.sabiextreme.co.za) .com) the Graskop. About 3kmsoutheastof thefallsare is about 12kmnorthof Sabie off Rte 532to Old Lydenburg Rd.Thepopular FallsCreek ing the70m waterfalls The area aroundSabieisdotted withbeautiful SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES days. spirit occupiedforseveral tional Park andactivitiestokeep yourpioneer of accommodation,easyaccesstoKruger Na- sberg Escarpment,Sabie offers agoodrange Perhaps themostinvitingtownonDraken- % Sabie setting. of or savoury pancakes sweet ina cosy US$2.80; Pancakes Petena’s EATING and aquietlocation. windows, plush roomswithprivate entrances, house.co.za; PowerSt;s/dUS$44/90; the banksof theSabieRiver. camping site inshaded, spaciousgroundson Old Lydenburg Rd,Merry Pebbles isalarge 4-/8-person chaletsUS$110/162) campsitesperpersonUS$11;cabinss/dUS$20/51; .co.za; bynight. drumming sessions can arrange adventure tours bydayandbongo per personUS$6,dmUS$9.50,s/dUS$11/22) 2130; www.billybongo.co.za; OldLydenburgRd;campsites Sabie Townhouse Billy BongoBackpackers Hardy Ventures Merry Pebbles Merry 013 / pop 12,000 / elevation 1100m 013 /pop12,000elevation Mac-Mac Pools Mac-Mac and h Sabie Xtreme Adventures Adventures Sabie Xtreme

. Bothare northwestof Sabieoff (admission toeachUS$0.70-1.40) 9am-5.30pm) Book accommodationBook online at lonelyplanet.com Bridal Veil FallsBridal

( %

( (

% , where youcanswim. %

can help organise abseiling, can helporganise abseiling, ( % 013-764 2266;www.merrypebbles 013-751 1693;www.hardyventure 013-764 1541; Main St; pancakes St;pancakes 013-764 1541;Main Dineonyourchoice 013-764 2292;www.sabietown Justnorthof townoff

(

( % % andthe68m 072-370 7219,072-720 s 013-764 2118;www lonelyplanet.com ( % Thisupscale ) is Thisplace, Mac-Mac Falls Mac-Mac 013-764 2118; , includ- This ) Lone

the road. building,andanATMmuseums just down Book accommodationBook online at lonelyplanet.com [email protected]; 6ThirdLane;mealsUS$4.70-12; [email protected]; grilled crocodile,andwarthogstew. specialities such asbiltongpâté,ostrich fillet, h lonelyplanet.com 2-person tents US$19,dwithshared bathroom US$19; campsitesper personUS$5.50, [email protected]; Park Caravan Rest Pilgrims SLEEPING theinformation centre.through howgoldwaspanned.Visits are arrangedsee (guided toursadult/childUS$1.40/0.70) Graskop roadistheopen-air from the1920s.Justeastof townalongthe edge of townfurnishedwithperiodobjects mine-manager’s residence atthenorthern sion US$2.80; esting ishistoric restored homeandageneral store. More inter- total admissionUS$1.40) The town’sthree main SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES St,Uptown; Main monument). made historicalvillage (it’snowanational town wassoldtothegovernment asaready- finallyfizzledoutin1972 the when thestuff 1873 whengoldwasdiscovered nearby, SabieandGraskop.Foundedinbetween located ashort detouroff themainroute ings are thefabric of tinyPilgrim’sRest, andhistoricbuild- Tourist shops, craftstalls % Rest Pilgrim’s permarket. (Maintransport stand St)isbehindSparsu- to/from Hazyview (US$2.80,onehour).The alsorunfrequentlyand Sabie).Minibustaxis Nelspruit Sabie (US$2.80,onehourbetween pruit, fromwhere youcanget to minibustaxis There are fromJo’burg dailybuses toNels- THERE&AWAYGETTING of standards. pot) andotherAfrikanerdishes, plusarange tures in arefurbished traincar,Smokey’s menufea- about US$5.50; Wild Fig Tree There’s an TrainDiner Smokey breakfast, lunch&dinner) 013 /pop600 potjiekos h h h information centre tours 11am&2pmMon-Sat) (stew cooked inathree-legged lunch &dinner)

GAUTENG ••History 9am-12.45pm &1.15-4.30pm) ( Alanglade % feature aprintingshop, (

% 013-764 3098,2239; Thisplacefeatures local museums 013-764 3445; Main St;mains 013-764 3445;Main AnAfrikanerdiner (

%

( where youcan 013-768 1060;admis- % Diggings Museum Diggings (

( % %

013-768 1427; 013-768 1060; , aformer 013-768 1060; atthe s

)

in British concentration camps, theBoers inmotion. set led tothe1899–1902 SouthAfricanWarwere only amatter of time before that theevents profits beingmadeinthegoldmines,itwas British turnedtheirattentions tothecolossal then frontiervillage of Pretoria. Butasthe inthe itscapital Republic) andestablishing SouthAfrican Afrikaansche Republiek(ZAR; century, foundingtheindependent Zuid- hereColony, hadbeen sincethemid-19th area was catapulted intothemodernage. until 1886,whengoldwasdiscovered, andthe tively quietandchiefly through ruralplaceright The area nowcalledGauteng remained arela- History urban poverty. alongsidesomeofset thecountry’sstarkest it’s astrange conurbationof opulentsuburbs city onthecontinent.Sprawlingandbooming, burg, theprovincial and third-largest capital down theM1motorwayawayisJohannes- belies aturbulentpast.Fiftyorsokilometres toria, thecountry’sadministrative capital, 10% of theGDPof thewholeof Africa. (GDP) and,perhapsmore extraordinarily, counts for34%of itsgrossdomesticproduct 1.5% of thecountry’sland surface,yetac- Gauteng (pronounced‘how-teng’) covers just Fast, bustlingandacabaret of contradictions, the Western love forher gold-bearing ore. all life, then Gauteng isaprovince bornof isthemotherofIf Africa,asthecliché goes, GAUTENG Rest andGraskop(US$1.40,30minutes). Pilgrim’s runbetween Sporadic minibustaxis THERE&AWAYGETTING good spotforadrink. four-poster adjoining,isa beds.Church Bar, furnished inperiodstyleandincludebrass torian architecture. Theroomsare elegantly of thetownandafineexampleof woodenVic- US$38/62; the towncentre ontheBlydeRiver. basic roomsandlarge grounds.It’sjustpast The cheapest placeintown,withfixed tents, Boers, escaping British rule in the Cape escapingBritish ruleintheCape Boers, The laid-back, friendlyatmosphere of Pre- Royal Hotel After suffering severe losses, particularly After severe losses, suffering a ) Thisisthehistoriccentrepiece

( % 013-768 1100;s/dwithbreakfast

539 SOUTH AFRICA AFRICA SOUTH R53 ὄ ὈὈὈ ὈὈὈ ὈὈ ὈὈ R565 R509

R501 SOUTH AFRICA is without adoubtthegreat bigbeating heart Jo’burg, orJozi asit’smore commonlyknown, % JOHANNESBURG all-too-familiar 20th-century drama. Transvaal, wasatcentre stage inSouth Africa’s Gauteng, thenknownas nents. Consequently anditsmostenergeticworst abuses oppo- would becomethehubof boththesystem’s rounding Jo’burg –notleast of themSoweto– managed fromPretoria, andthetownshipssur- ofthousands blackminer exploded intolife, butlittlechanged forthe Africa in1910.Thefledglingcityof Jo’burg andultimatelyeeniging theUnionof South conceded defeat, leadingtotheTreaty of Ver- 540 R59 To Mafikeng(167km) (472km) To Kimberley To Upington(796km) Klerkskraal Pilanesberg R24 GAUTENG Maropeng &CradleNR Mountain Reserve 14 R54 N Cradle ofHumankind& Derby Rustenburg 011 /pop5.7million Heldina NP Sun City Kgaswane Potchefstroom Sterkfontein Caves GAUTENG ••Johannesburg Boshoek Boons R53 Pilanesberg R500 Airport

Vaal Rex Vredefort 12 ὄ ὄ ὈὈ N

RiverR723 Mogwase Maanhaarrand Welverdiend NORTH-WEST N 4 PROVINCE Magaliesburg Fochville Parys Dam Bospoort R27 R556 R24 Beestekraal Roodekopjes R511 Vaalkop Carletonville Dam R54 Marikana Wonder Cave Krugersdorp Westonaria Dam Lion NR& Randfontein R59 N Rhino & 1 Loch Vaal To Bloemfontein(388km); Pansdrif Cultural

FREE STATE Village R560

Lesedi s. Apart Cape Town(1265km) Rietspruit Skeerpoort ὄ GR Assen Atlanta Boipatong Oaktree

Sharpeville

Ennerdale Moratele Brits River Krugersdorp Lenasia Lanseria Airport R82 heid wouldbe JOHANNESBURG R57 Soweto Klipvoor Vanderbijlpark Muldersdrift Gold Mine Old Kromdraai Sasolburg Dam Cheetah Reserve Sebokeng Walkerville De Wildt Hartbeespoort Deneysville Roodepoort Mabopane Sandton Park Lion

R59

Vereeniging

R

Vaal Dam i v

R42 e

Meyerton R80 r Oranjeville ὈὈὈ Ὀ Ὀ Midrand Randvaal Boksburg Kyalami Alberton PRETORIA Thokoza Germiston LIMPOPO Katlehong Suikerbosrand through coilsofthrough razor wire. nated, whiletheother looked onimpassively society where onehalfof the populationstag- crime andpoverty hadmanifested ina itself reigned supreme; acitywhere spirallinggun newsflash wasacitywhere fear andloathing proved themost enduring.TheJo’burg of the multicolour dimensions. inthree,century SouthAfricacanbewitnessed city, where alltheupsanddownsof 21st- foibles –istodayafascinating,multitudinous colossus of Jo’burg –withallitsthrillsand playedout,the traordinary nationhasbeen Often the stage onwhich theepicof thisex- and-Hyde roleintheglobalconsciousness. Vaal Dam of SouthAfricaandhaslongplayedaJekyll- Centurion Brakpan In thepast,city’sdarker personality Tembisa NR Kempton Park NR R54 OR Tambo International Airport Thema

Van Riebeeck Temba

Kwa-

Dasville e n i a

P

a r

Benoni s

Sammy Marks R Mamelodi

i v e Heidelberg r Museum NR To Polokwane(Pietersburg)(198km); Roodeplaatdam Suikerbosrand Makhado (LouisTrichardt)(312km); Tsakane N 1 Jameson Park Bapsfontein Springs Cullinan Daveyton ὄ Villiers Nigel Thohoyandou (378km) Rust deWinter R29 Grootvlei N 3 Rayton Delmas Rust de Winter NR Balfour Diamond Mine Cullinan Greylingstad 30miles 50km 0 0 To Pietermaritzburg(490km); W

a MPUMALANGA t e

Durban (568km) r Ekangala v R548 a KwaMhlanga

l Bronkhorstspruit River

Devon Elands Roodebank Witnek Arbor MPUMALANGA V Val Ὀ a NR GameReserve NP GR LEGEND lonelyplanet.com

a Vaalplaas

l Leandra

Balmoral R (Pietersburg) (174km)

Evander River

i

v Nature Reserve National Park e

R547 R23 r W i

Cilliers l Dennilton Verena

g To Polokwane Charl N

4 e Ogies To Volksrust Kinross Standerton To Nelspruit Witbank Trichardt R573 (322km)

12

N (83km) River R544 R546 persist, but armed with a new self-confidence – persist, butarmedwithanewself-confidence inequalities many willtake timetoheal.Stark South Africa’sturbulent20thcentury,and stereotypes. bearthescars Jo’burg of does lonelyplanet.com Rape Crisis Line Crisis Rape Rd) Main Headquarters, SA PoliceHeadquarters Fire AIDS line EMERGENCY Information directions. other bigtownships surroundthecityinall The maintownship isSoweto( p544 ), but the stereotypically suburbantotheappalling. urbs. Conditionswithinthemrange from contrasttothenorthernsub- present astark make arefreshing change. Melville, Greenside, Parkhurst andNorwood The inner-suburban restaurant enclaves of ping mallsformthecentre of mostsociallife. are where mosttravellers Sterile shop- stay. suburbs of bigtrees bighouses, andbigfences arc formedbytheN1andN3freeways. These white middle-andupper-class areas, within dangerous Yeoville. To thenortheastof thecentre istheequally across tothedangerous suburbof Hillbrow. steep ridge runswest–eastfromBraamfontein up centralJo’burg. Northof thecitycentre, a of thecity,isatcore of toclean aneffort cultural precinct, atthenorthwestern edge redevelopmentHowever, of theNewtown thecentreclose, town. becomesavirtualghost inthecitycentre;son tostay after theshops onCommissionerCentre St.There’s norea- blocks –inparticularthe50-storey Carlton grid,isdominateda straightforward byoffice east of thecitycentre. Johannesburg International) is25kmnorth- Tambo formerly International Airport(JIA; one canbeextremely time-consuming.OR is surprisinglyeasyandgetting aroundwithout areCars kinghere, sogetting aroundwithone Orientation of urbanrenewal andsocialregeneration. toahealthierdiet beginning tointroduceitself township of Soweto–Africa’s gianthubis ironically mostpronouncedintheinfamous As there ever, isanelementof truthtothe The blacktownshipsringthecityand The northernsuburbsare predominantly The large citycentre, which islaidouton ( % 10111) ( % 0800 012322) ( % GAUTENG ••Johannesburg 011-806 1888) Mp p547 ; (Map % 10111;

an 78 4thAve, perminUS$0.10; Melville; 4.30pm Mon-Fri, tonoonSat) 4.30pm Mon-Fri, be contacted for general South Africa information. forgeneralSouthAfrica be contacted 3001; 90ProteaRd,Sandton; suburbs. in thenorthern Sturdee Ave, Rosebank; main publichospital. % are eagerbutwoefullyundertrained. Staffmembers middle oftheNewtownCulturalPrecinct. are inthe body’sglisteningnewheadquarters The tourist Henry NxumaloSt,Newtown; 1600; www.gauteng.net;& 1CentralPlace,cnrJeppe taxi toyourfinaldestination. taxi arrive after darkanddon’t have acar,catch a walk aroundcentral Jo’burg –ifyou atnight onyourguard.You’dbecrazyto be constantly Hillbrow, are notuncommon andyoumust city centre andotherinnersuburbs,notably inthe curity inJo’burg. muggings Daylight Pay careful attention toyourpersonal se- Dangers &Annoyances SA Tourism Company Tourism Jo’burg Authority Tourism Gauteng TOURIST INFORMATION office atthe There isaposte restante service POST and inmajor malls. Thomas Cook)have branches attheairport can Express andRenniesTravel (anagent for commercialcentre.facilities atevery Ameri- There are bankswithATMs andexchange MONEY Rosebank Clinic Hospital General Johannesburg MEDICAL SERVICES than most. the centre of Melville, ispriceybutopenlater everywhere. net caféandwi-fi hotspotsare poppingup most Jo’burg mallsandsuburbshave aninter- US$2.80 toUS$8perhour. Alternatively, internet facilities,charging anythingfrom Most of thecity’shostels andhotels have ACCESSINTERNET Mon-Fri) A private endeavour;coversthecityofJo’burg. Aprivate Mon-Fri) Cnr, 195JanSmutsAve, Parktown North; groundfl,Grosvenor 214 0700;[email protected]; 011-488 4911;M1/JubileeRd,Parktown) Jo’burg’s (Map (Map p547 ; (Map (Map pp542-3 ; Out of Print Books Out ofPrint Mp pp542-3; (Map % 0800 110 226; Jeppe St; 0800 110226;Jeppe h 7am-10pm) A private hospital 7am-10pm) Aprivate . % h h (Map (Map pp542-3 ; (Map (Map p547 ; 011-895 3000;fax895 8am-5pm Mon-Fri) Can 8am-5pm Mon-Fri) 8am-5pm Mon-Fri) 8am-5pm Mon-Fri) % Mp pp542-3; (Map h 011-328 0500;14

( % h 10am-9pm) 011-482 6026; % 8am-5pm % h 011-639 main post 011- 8.30am-

541 , in SOUTH AFRICA AFRICA SOUTH 70 M N 1 SOUTH AFRICA 542 To Casalinga(4km) 4 6 1 3 2 5 JOHANNESBURG

Maraisburg Western Bypass Western Commando Rd

Welteve Main Rd Main

GAUTENG ••Johannesburg Newclare Northcliff Long 5th den Rd Fuel Rd

Coronationville Main Reef Rd Reef Main A

Perth Rd Perth Republic Rd

Soweto Rd St Dr Strijdom Hans Western Bypass Linden

Milner Ave St Rabie

Nasrec Rd Sophiatown

Hwy Ave 3rd

Po Randburg

Beyers 15 rtland Ave rtland Naude

8th St Ferndale Roosevelt Auckland Dr Douglas

Bond St Craigavon Dr Park Park

21

High St High Greenside

1st Ave 1st Hendrik Verwoerd Dr Homestead Tana Rd

25 Judith Rd Judith 19

Melville Craighall Dr Conrad

M

1 Ave

Jan Smuts Ave Smuts Jan Gros

1st Ave 1st 8 Ave Hertzog Barry Park Brixton

Church StRd Main Central Parkhurst

Rosebank venor Pe 24

B M Ave 6th 7 ter

Dunkeld Rd Parkview West

Westcliff Pl Parkwood

28 Newtown To Bloemfontein(425km); William Nicol Dr Nicol William Cape Town(1395km) 11 Kimberley (457km);

7th Ave Main Rd 10 1 20 2 Booysens Rd

Parkmore Sandton Sandhurst Dr Bryanston Turffontein Dunkeld

Map (p547) See CentralJohannesburg

Parktown Course Rd Bompas Hyde Park Saxonwold Race Braamfontein

Bree St 5 4 13 Witkoppen Rd Killarney Smit St 23 29 6 Hillbrow Morningside

Station

Glenhove Rd

11th Ave Rd Summit Park Turf Kath Stadium

Melrose Oxford Rd 9 Rand Rd 3 Wanderers Ground 18 Berea Cricket erine Illovo 7 Dr C

17 Houghton Grayston Dr Grayston

Wemmer Louis

1st Ave 1st South Rd Rd Rivonia Ὀ M Melrose 2 Pan Norwood

Rockey St

Pretoria St North Yeoville 16 Sandown Troyeville

M

Botha 1 N Rd Nanyuki

1 Ivy Rd Ivy Roberts Ave

Valley

Corlett Dr Bez Bowling Ave Bowling

Ave Heidelberg

Kensington La Observatory

14 To Durban

(588km) Louis Botha Ave Botha Louis 26

12 Observatory Ave Alexandra

Gardens

Crystal Rd Jeppestown To Pretoria(40km) Orange 24

Grove Pretoria R Main Rd lonelyplanet.com 22

Kitchener Ave D

Doornfontein Marlboro Kew

25 London Rd R Bruma Bruma 27 Lake Rembrandt N 3

Jules St

Park Rd Eastern Bypass Eastern N 1

lonelyplanet.com Stanhope St Stanhope Backpackers (16km); Modderfontein To DunedenHotel 12 Eastern N Bypass (4km); Airport Airport; Purple Emerald Guest Sydonia St Palms (18km); House (20km) International OR Tambo N 3 M 2 E SAA Office...... Rosebank RooftopMarket...... (see 23) Oriental Plaza...... Bruma LakeMarketWorld...... 206 Live...... Cool Runnings...... Yum...... Rosebank Mall...... Moyo's...... (see 16) Cranks...... (see 23) Chinatown...... Catz Pyjamas...... Ten Bompas...... Sleek Backpackers...... Saxon...... Quatermain Hotel...... Melrose ArchHotel...... Inchanga RanchResort...... Garden Place...... Rosebank...... Don SuitesApartmentsat Diamond Digger'sLodge...... Craighall House...... Backpackers Ritz...... Apartheid Museum...... US Consulate...... SA Tourism...... Rosebank Clinic...... Mozambican Consulate...... Johannesburg GeneralHospital...... Jo'burg TourismCompany...... French Consulate...... TRANSPORT SHOPPING ENTERTAINMENT DRINKING EATING SLEEPING Telkom Tower...... SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES INFORMATION GAUTENG ••Johannesburg 0 0 Minor RoadsNotDepicted F 29 28 27 26 25 24 23 22 21 20 19 18 17 16 15 14 13 12 11 10 2 miles 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 C4 B5 D5 D5 B5 B4 C4 D5 B5 B4 B3 C3 C3 C4 A1 D4 C4 D5 B3 B4 C5 B6 C4 C3 C4 C4 C5 B4 B4 4 km 4 6 1 3 2 5 child US$1.40/1; 308 1331;50thfl,CarltonCentre, 152CommissionerSt;adult/ to putthingsinperspective: remember that Sophiatown. ones on the Treason Trials(1956–61) and excellentexhibitions,including has several 121Bree St;adult/childUS$1.10/0.50; .org.za; Africa atour.a goodplacetostart South Africa’sfirst female tradeunionist),is Fitzgerald Square Mary cinct, which occupiesthenewlybrushed-up andcafés,Newtown’scultural pre-museums rejuvenate thedowntownarea. Surroundedby Today, Newtownisatthecentre ofto efforts NEWTOWN positively serene.ing cityseems deck,thesprawl- moteness of theobservation take theliftto of blackartists. porary workandlong-overdue retrospectives bitions featuring more adventurous contem- landscape andfigurative paintings,andexhi- collection of European and SouthAfrican h p547; (Map a no-go area) isthe heart of thecity. ing toboostconfidenceoncemore inthe Braamfontein tothenorthare graduallyhelp- Newtown tothesouthanduniversity-oriented mosphere today, butregeneration projects in to turn‘bad’.Thearea retains itsedgyat- andbuildings too-promising crimestatistics ofdistrict tovanishunderamountain none- tothenorthernsuburbs,leavingfleeing the the mid-1990s,withmanywhite businesses The citycentre choked andlargely diedin CENTRE CITY Sights &Activities going onaroundyou. advice, listen toitandremain aware of what’s vulnerable. into. It’swhenusingATMs thatyou’re most the cityyouwouldhave littlereason tostray and thatmuch ofparts thecrimeafflicts most travellers comeandgowithoutincident Tue-Sun) At theheartof theculturalprecinct, On theNoordStsideof JoubertPark (itself Crime isabigproblem, butitisimportant To get of anoverview thehubof Jo’burg, local The secret tosuccessissimple:seek 10am-5pm Tue-Sun)

Mp p547; (Map , nexttotheMarket Theatre complex % h 011-725 3130; Joubert Park; admissionfree;011-725 3130;Joubert % 9am-7pm) 011-833 5624;museumafrica@joburg . Thisplacehasareputable Top ofAfrica Mp p4 nmd after named p547; (Map Johannesburg Art Gallery Art Johannesburg . Fromthequietre- Mp p547; (Map

h 9am-5pm % Museum Museum 543 011-

SOUTH AFRICA AFRICA SOUTH SOUTH AFRICA in SouthernAfrica. bridgecable-stayed isthelongest of itskind (two daysafter his85thbirthday),the295m, opened byNelsonMandela on20July2003 among theliveliest andmostinteresting dela Bridge very real lawlessnessandatripintoitsguts, ithasareputation days,however, for These were allowedtolive officially sidebyside. districts inJo’burg where blacksandwhites suburbs inthecity,becomingoneof thefirst St) Goldreich pp542-3; (Map Crowned bythelooming,269m HILLBROW &CONSTITUTIONHILL Soweto shebeen. industries andthere isare-creation of a1965 Sat) 4900; 15President St;admissionUS$1.40; visits. museum between an excellentplacetowhileawayafew hours p549 ), withitsshows, bars andrestaurants, is 544 The The nearby Looming over Newtownisthe the Jo’burg city centre. Park(US$1.50 oneway) that arrive inDiepklooforOrlandofromthe taxiranknearJoubert in for toursoperating fromJo’burg. rely onyour guesthouseownertogetyousafely betweenthevariousattractions. See opposite St(thegreatestas Vilakazi dangerisgetting hopelesslylostonthewayintoSoweto)andthen to dothis,stickthearea Pieterson StandHector surroundingVilakazi Sq. tourisnotoutofthequestion–although heedlocaladvicecarefully.self-guided Ifyouchoose made toimprove signposting (aperennial problem),andthe infrastructure isnowsuchthat a tourist iseitherunsafe orinappropriate. Mostvisitorsstillcomeonatour,butmoves are being suburbsare pleasantstereotypemiddle-class squashers. media’s beloved wasteland, thesprinkler-fed imageofSowetoasacrime-ridden lawnsofthese and OrlandoWest,are indicative ofthegrowthanewmoneyedclass. Against theWestern township are stillcharacterised bydesperate poverty, whileothers,suchasDiepkloofExtension figure) to4million(localestimates) peoplelive inSoweto–ischanging. Large ofthe sections identity fortheircommunity. narrative and,after aninitialexodus,localblacksare alsoreturning, intent onforging anew now floodintothearea, attracted bysomeofthemostpoignantlandmarksinSouthAfrica’s onajourneyofself-discoveryembarked thatisasmuchaboutthefuture asthepast.Tourists descendants isthebiggest,mostpolitical,troubledanddynamictownship too, andhasoflate Western Townships. This sprawlingconurbationofthecountry’smigrantlabourforceandtheir Soweto, bornofanideaassimpleandsoullesstheacronymdevisedfor itsname–South- No townshipinSouthAfrica, even theworld, hasasmuchpoliticalandhistoricalmeaning SOWETO unlocksthesecrets of thecountry’sbrewing Most transport inandoutofSowetois bymotorvehicle, usually byoneoftheminibustaxis Most transport If youare atourasfar flexibilitywhileavoidingthealoofness,take on atourandwantextra Soweto isbyfarthemostvisited townshipinthecountry,sodon’tfeel thatcoming here asa And sothefaceofthissprawlingcommunity–anythingfrom2.3million(the latest official GAUTENG ••Johannesburg SAB Centenary Centre SAB Centenary

Mp p4 www.blueiq.co.za) p547; (Map Market Theatre Theatre Market , Hillbrowwasonce

Mp p547; (Map h complex (see complex (see Telkom Tower 10am-6pm Tue- . Officially . Officially Nelson Man- % 011-836

chilling accuracy.Thisremains oneof South SouthAfrica’seraofdetails segregation with apartheid system. unravelling andeventual plementation of the intothearchitecture,colourful insight im- text, audioandlive accountstoprovide a usingfilm, museums, Africa’s mostevocative Parkway; adult/childUS$3.40/1.60; Rd&Northern cnrGoldReef 4700; www.apartheidmuseum.org; The SOUTHERN SUBURBS languages.in all11official the changing heard SouthAfricawithcases Constitutional Court onSouthAfrica’snew focuses development 1892 andwasonceanotoriousprison,the the rampartsof the try’s –chief touristattractions.Builtwithin becoming oneof thecity’s–ifnotcoun- adult/child US$2.80/1.40; p547; recommended. without anextremely guide,isnot savvy Inspiring, impressive % Apartheid Museum Apartheid 011-381 3100; www.constitutionhill.co.za; KotzeSt; 011-381 3100;www.constitutionhill.co.za; , itself avery, itself real symbolof h Old Fort

9am-5pm Wed-Mon) Mp pp542-3; (Map Constitution Hill h , which dates from lonelyplanet.com 10am-5pm Tue-Sun) % is slowly 011-309

(Map (Map

tentious place bedecked inzebramotifscan’t .co.za; 85ThirdAve;.co.za; s/dwithbreakfast US$54/67; newlyweds. ers, longer stayers, business peopleand even andfacilities forovernight- superior service Ave, butoffers rooms, clean andcomfortable Book accommodationBook online at lonelyplanet.com 53 Garden Rd,Orchards;s/dwithbreakfast US$60/101; 53 Garden township, andSoweto(perpersonUS$42). thecity’sgrimmest Alexandra (perpersonUS$40),perhaps townships,includinghalf-daytoursto to Jo’burg’sgritty Ibz Tours Imbizo Tours lonelyplanet.com pais school bric-a-brac fordécor. flooring, asunterrace andplentyof old- has lashingsof comfyclass,withOregon pine ing ‘old’Melville grace,thiscolonial-eravilla Ave; 66Sixth .co.za; s/dwith breakfast US$57/72; swimming pool. rooms clustered intimately aroundasparkling ofpeace andquietinaseries small,neat Melville’s nightlife, Thulanimanages tooffer Despite its toplocationjustmetres from excellent braais. and hasapatiothatisthelaunch padforsome inexpensive meals price andlocation.Itserves be beaten foritscombinationof comfort, breakfast US$36/45; 11 WaltonAve, AucklandPark; dwithout/withbathroomincl and Norwoodistothenorth. Melville islocated northwestof centralJo’burg MELVILLE &NORWOOD safer areas. hostels have orrelocated eitherclosed to backpacker favourite butisnolonger. All off inthe’burbs.Yeoville wasforyears a has scared awaycustomers; you’re better are crime excellentvaluebutthat’sbecause Some of incentralJo’burg theplacestostay Sleeping Walks Tours a localhealer. visit backyard theatre, milkacow,listentojazzandeven inashebeen,watch where youcanmeetlocals,drink toSoweto. Italsooffersshuttle (US$8)fromMelville tours townshiptours,withacheap different fromthezoo-like Taste ofAfrica tours around parts ofJo’burg. tours aroundparts walking regular weekend per personfromUS$16)Offers Garden Place Garden Die Agterplaas Pension Idube Thulani Lodge Thulani ( ( % % ( ) It’s slightly awayfromGrant It’sslightly % 011-444 1639;www.walktours.co.za;

ps

GAUTENG ••Johannesburg 011-838 2667)Specialisesintours (

( % Mp pp542-3; (Map ( % 082-565 2520) Offers something 082-565 2520)Offers % 011-482 1106;www.thulanilodge 011-482 4055;[email protected]; 011-726 8452;agterplaas@icon ) Thispositively unpre- % 011-485 3800; a ps Ooz- ) ) options with stylish fittings, excellent service options withstylishfittings,excellent service of Jo’burg’s bestmidrange accommodation offers excellentrooms. black-owned hotel chain inthelandandit www.sleekhostel.150m.com; 477JanSmutsAve, www.sleekhostel.150m.com; Randburg; s/d withbreakfast US$40/67; 10AlexandraAve,[email protected]; Craighall; has none of theoldJo’burg charm of suburban the cheapest intown. Worse, it placetostay US$236/392 Arch;s/d with breakfast from Sq, Melrose 6666; 1Melrose o Top End another huge bonus. Its award-winningrestaurant, theCourier,is and agreat locationneartheglitzof Sandton. s/d inclbreakfast US$103/143; 137WestRdSouth,Morningside; www.quatermain.co.za; s/d withbreakfast US$72/88; % beautiful gardenandswimmingpool. rooms each withprivate entranceandpatio,a hasneatlydesigned Sandton, thisguesthouse more and Rosebank orlesshalfwaybetween Craighall House MIDRANGE cramped. rooms are very large andthedoublesabit of bars andrestaurants. Curiouslythedorm and-a-skip fromHydePark Mall, andplenty is inacharacterful oldmansionasafe hop- not‘TheRitz’,thisbackpackers Certainly dm/s/d withshared bathroomUS$11/24/35; West; Rd,Dunkeld 1ANorth www.backpackers-ritz.co.za; Fourways. thecitycentreabout halfwaybetween and are basicbutclean.It’sinahandylocation with apersonal touch. Dormsanddoubles A converted isnowasmallhostel run house dm/s/d withshared bathroomUS$11/14/27; A-frame hutswithanimal-printlinens. casino. Accommodationisincute private minutes fromtheshopsandcasinoof Monte- pis camp sitesUS$5.50,dm/s/dUS$10/27/34,cabinsfromUS$20; 51InchangaRd,Craigavon; 2505; www.inchangaresort.co.za; Resort Inchanga Ranch Budget NORTHERN SUBURBS Quatermain Hotel Hotel Quatermain Don Suites Apartments atRosebank Apartments Don Suites Ritz Backpackers Sleek Backpackers 011-880 1666;fax8803366;10TyrwhittAve, Rosebank; Melrose Arch Hotel ArchHotel Melrose pais ) Awonderfulcountryretreat just

Mp pp542-3; (Map

Mp pp542-3; (Map

Mp pp542-3; (Map Mp pp542-3; (Map

pa Mp pp542-3; (Map ) This is certainly not Thisiscertainly pas ps Mp pp542-3; (Map ) Thisistheonly % ) % % % Well located 011-326 0326; Thisisone ) Mp pp542-3; (Map 011-325 7125;

011-290 0900; 011-787 8070; pis pis % % 011-708 011-214 545

) )

SOUTH AFRICA AFRICA SOUTH SOUTH AFRICA rooms. Airporttransfers are offered. and hasplentyof homecomfortsand decent ofis withineasystrikingdistance theairport Readers recommend which thisguesthouse, cinema andapubforpost-tourfrolics. including aJacuzzi, abig-screen sauna, home backpackers, imaginableamenity, withevery tique hotel offers no-holds-barred luxury. opulent Jo’burg, thisgorgeous, all-suite bou- pais .com; 36SaxonRd,Sandhurst;rwithbreakfast fromUS$570; 546 around Diagonal St–just follow yournose. cooked on and onthe braai,trythe stalls For acheap mealof CENTRE&NEWTOWN CITY for thewidestrange of produce. markets inthebowelsof shopping every mall tered aroundthenorthernsuburbs. without cars, mostof thebestplacesare scat- Unfortunately forvisitors, especiallythose whim,craving,every occasionandbudget. Jo’burg isstacked withrestaurants tosatisfy Eating Park; Kempton s/dUS$37/54; Rhodesfield, Gauteng.passing through forbackpackersfriendly, well-runwaystation quiet suburb10kmfromtheairport,thisisa shared bathroomUS$30/35trUS$44; 1BoompeiperAve,.co.za; Park; Kempton dwithout/with shared bathroomUS$9.50/24; dm/dwith St,Kensington; 36Doris www.oneandonly.co.za; Diamond Digger’sLodge EASTERN SUBURBS lobbytoilet. initsunisex televisions with anexcellentwinelistandfloor-mounted dividually styled,five-star suites, arestaurant US$320; West;rwithbreakfast .tenbompas.com; 10BompasRd,Dunkeld dream… Africa of integration andprosperity.Dare to andclientelè hintatafuturemixed staff South ful, unconventional stylingandthoroughly Johannesburg, thisistheplacetobe. Itstaste- unashamedly positive aboutcontemporary thatisforward-looking,brashand everything of Butforataste of Soweto’sguesthouses. B&Bs, northehomespunurbanAfricanchic Emerald GuestHouse Purple Palms For self-caterers, headtotheglitzysuper-For self-caterers, Saxon Ten Bompas GAUTENG ••Johannesburg pas Mp pp542-3; (Map ) The

Mp pp542-3; (Map ( % ) Atrueoriginal,with10in- ne plusultra 011-393 4393;info@purplepalms % (Map pp542-3; (Map (

% pis mealie pap 011-292 6000;www.thesaxon 011-394 1198;19HalifaxSt, % pis 011-341 0282;www of impossibly Anexcellent % ) pais andmeat 011-624 1676; ) Ina

) Newtown; mainsUS$5.50-12; & dinner); Arch cuisine. whips upameanmixof African andAsian town classicintheMarket Theatre complex of curiosandcharacter, thisgay-friendly New- a pieandchips. balcony andwatch thecitypassyoubyover style pubbelow,orsitoutontheupstairs can whileawaythedayindarkEnglish- & dinner) mainsUS$4.70-7; St,Marshalltown; 1770; 88Market to thedogs. groaningabout howit’sallgone city stalwarts and white drinkingwithhepcatsandgrizzly younglionsblack in townwhere you’llsee Mandela) foryears. It’soneof thefew places despite having attracted luminaries(including ‘only goodIndianrestaurant inthecountry’) chef/patron Madanjit Ranchod Itispositivelytan’s. unpretentious (though reflect itspast,there’s nothingquite like Kapi- a taste of thenewcityinsurroundingsthat fering worldcuisine,butfor justaboutevery awash withaward-winningrestaurants of- St;mainsUS$4-8; Kort geous staff – what moregeous couldyouaskfor? staff yummy breakfas, great cappuccinosand gor- US$3.40; Ish Caffé Cafés &QuickEats tables. watching theworldgobyfrompavement ambience, withpatronssippingdrinks and the warmermonths 7thSttakes onaParisian Bohemian, youthfulatmosphere prevails. In away, knownas‘NewMelville’. and aroundthebusierMain Rdabout1km area around 7thSt,knownas‘OldMelville’, andcaféshaveRestaurants sprungupinthe come thetrendiest eatingstripinJo’burg. Northwest of Braamfontein, Melville hasbe- MELVILLE porary Africaneats. chain offers aninnovative menuof contem- lunch) dinner); Guildhall Bar&Restaurant o Moyo’s Gramadoela’s The bestfoodisinOldMelville, where a (Map (Map pp542-3 ; Oozing chi-chi African charm, thisbusy Rosebank Established waybackin1888,you Established h

( Newtown %

(www.moyo.co.za; mainsUS$7-13; Kapitan’s breakfast, lunch&dinner) Book accommodation onlineBook at lonelyplanet.com 011-482 4320;cnr7thSt & 4thAve; lightmeals ( % ( %

Mp p547; (Map % 011-646 0058; Zoo Lake; 011-646 0058;ZooLake; 011-684 1477; 5 Melrose Sq; 011-684 1477;5Melrose h

Mp p547; (Map 011-838 1715;Bree St; lunch &dinner) h % (Map pp542-3; (Map lunch &dinner;

% 011-838 6960;Bree St, lonelyplanet.com Chicdesign, 011-834 8048;11A does Jo’burg is

h a % callitthe h a breakfast & h ) h Melrose 011-833 lunch & ) Full lunch lunch ὈὈ lonelyplanet.com (100m) To Carfax 4 6 1 3 2 5 CENTRAL JOHANNESBURG 3

21

Witwatersrand Empire

Main University Jan Henri St Henri Department ofHomeAffairs...... Botswana Consulate...... Top ofAfrica...... SAB CentenaryCentre...... Museum Africa...... Mary FitzgeraldSquare...... Johannesburg ArtGallery...... Constitution Hill...... Zimbabwe Consulate...... Swaziland Consulate...... SA PoliceHeadquarters...... Main PostOffice...... Gauteng TourismAuthority...... esnMneaBig...... B4 Nelson MandelaBridge...... SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES INFORMATION

of the Smuts

Rd

5 Smit St St Station 10 11

De Korte St AC

Juta St

Eton

18 20 Jan Smuts Ave Smuts Jan GAUTENG ••CentralJohannesburg

Newtown Rockridge

Jorissen St

19 Market St Bertha Bezuidenhout St Bezuidenhout

Pim St ὈὈ ὈὈ 13 De Villers Graaff

17 6

Becker St Becker

Nelson Queen Queen

De Beer St Beer De

Mandela

West St West Girton Melle Winchester To Northern 12

Braamfontein

Elizabeth Suburbs

Bri Jeppe St St Melle

Bree St Davids St dge Ameshoff St 14 13 12 11 10

Stiemens St 16

9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Ferreira St Ferreira Diagonal St

Kort St Kort B5 B4

D6 A6 A5 A5 D4 C3 B6 A3 A6 C5 OxfordA5 Dr

Biccard St Biccard Sauer St Sauer Hoofd St

Gramadoela's...... (see 20) Beautiful Things...... Market Theatre...... Laboratory...... Kippie's JazzInternational...... Horror Café...... Guildhall Bar&Restaurant...... (see15) Kapitan's...... ulhl a etuat...... B6 Guildhall Bar&Restaurant...... SHOPPING ENTERTAINMENT DRINKING EATING B 7 St Simmonds

Leyds St Ὀ Ὀ Ὀ Ὀ ὈὈὈ ὈὈ Oxford

Library 1

Sq St Loveday Simmonds St Simmonds 2

Hillside Jubilee Kerk St St Harrison

Main St 15 St Loveday

Juta

Market St Joubert St Joubert

Market (200m) Rissik St Rissik De Villiers St

Wolmarans St Smit St St Andrews

To Faraday De Korte

Plein St South African Sam Hancock Sam for Medical

Commissioner St Entrance President St Bree St

Jeppe St Research Station Institute

22 Park Empire

Marshall St St Joubert

ὈὈ ὈὈ Anderson Gandhi Queens 8

Sq

Eloff St Eloff 30 23

Hospital St Hospital 21 20 19 18 17 16 15

Hoek

29 Von Brandis St Brandis Von

A6 A5 A5 A5 A5 B6 Fox St Queens

25 Wanderers St Wanderers

Clarendon Orange Grove(6km)

4 St George King Kruis St Kruis Norwood (4km); York

CapeTown...... Minibus TaxistoSoweto...... Minibus TaxistoPretoria...... Kroonstad&Ficksburg...... Minibus TaxistoDurban...... Zimbabwe...... Offices...... ai oRsbn ado...... C5 Taxis toRosebank&Sandton...... TRANSPORT Minibus TaxistoUpington,Kimberley& Minibus TaxistoLesotho,Bloemfontein, C6 Minibus TaxistoBulawayo, Metrobus Terminal...... Long-Distance BusesBooking

To M1(2km);

Carlton St Klein Centre

Smal St Mall St Smal 27

0.3miles 500m 0 0 24

Edith Cavell St Cavell Edith Klein St Klein Joubert

Park 14

Van Der Merwe Von Weilligh St Weilligh Von 28

Pretoria St

9

Bruce

Esselen St Twist St Twist Kapteijn St Delvers St Delvers Pietersen St

Kotze St Caroline

Ockerse

Quartz St Quartz Troye St Troye Hillbrow 26

Leyds St

Bok St

Marshall St St Claim

De Villiers St Koch St Polly St Polly Noord St Banket Fox St Main St

Plein St Hancock St

Pritchard St D Bree St

Kerk St Jeppe St

To Berea(2.5km);

Banket St Banket Yeoville (2.5km) Mooi St Mooi

Catherine St Catherine

Beatrice

Gold St Gold 30 29 28 27 26 25 24 23 22 Troyeville St Nugget

Barnato

(1km) Abel

Olivia C4 D4 C4 D4 C4 C4 C4 Nugget St Nugget 547

To SOUTH AFRICA AFRICA SOUTH SOUTH AFRICA for vegetarians. modern surrounds.Theyalsoclaimtocater sublimeaged cutsin ket serves steakhouse place forahardcore meatfeast, thisupmar- ful people. and there’s anattached barfilledwithbeauti- foodisfreshThai andVietnamese andzesty, décor gives thisplaceahip,stylishedge. The mains US$5.50-8; mains US$5.50-9.50; 15; (US$6). of isfishfilletwith lemongrass thehouse burg. Among thetried-and-tested favourites the first Thai-Vietnamese places inJohannes- going after almost20years, Crankswasoneof mainsUS$4.70-8; bank Mall; society. malls thatformthecore of northernsuburbs suburbs are centred onthehuge shopping affluent The manyeatingoptionsinthese NORTHERN SUBURBS Ave; mainsUS$7-16; dishes predominate. some legendary food.Europeanmeatandfish a veteran of theneighbourhood, whipsup h on weekends. aMelvilleSoulsa favourite. Breakfast isserved African cooking,andoutdoorsofas have made menusfeaturing fusionSouth day andnight h restaurant ishardtobeat. food butafter outthis24-hour alongnight Rd &3rdAve) Pyjamas Catz Restaurants into abar. tuckertaurant before slowlytransforming res- upsometasty itserves Come nightfall, inside, thisplaceheaves atbreakfast time. outsideandhuge,terrace comfysofas seating onMondaynights. closed homemade gateaux, andafullmealmenu.It’s of freshly baked treats delicioussweet such as Jo’burg’s withadailyselection bestpatisseries, 548 Chaplin’s De LaCreme Cranks Grill Melville Soi h Soulsa Spiro’s Cafe lunch &dinner; lunch &dinner;

( lunch &dinner; GAUTENG ••Johannesburg %

( Mp pp542-3; (Map 011-726 5775;cnr7thSt&3rdAve; mainsUS$6-12; %

Afairlysterile placewithcheap ( %

Mp pp542-3; (Map 011-482 5572;167thSt;mainsUS$4.70-12;

( h

% (

a % 011-482 4657;854thAve; mainsUS$11- ( a h % h breakfast, lunch&dinner) 011-482 1162;cnr7thSt&2ndAve; a ) 011-726 7716;cnr7thSt&4thAve; Flash,oh-so-trendy Asian ) breakfast, lunch&dinner) 011-727 28-12;cnr7thSt&3rd lunch &dinner; Funky décor, differing Funkydécor,differing % ) This twee littlebistro, Thistwee h 011-880 3442;Shop52,Rose- % lunch &dinner; 011-726 8596; cnr Main 011-726 8596;cnrMain a Theonly ) Oneof a With Still ) tured artistsloungingonitsretro furniture, an ultra-cooldesignandJo’burg’s mosttor- 1770; 88 Market St) 1770; 88Market people-watching. two of lager. There’s anupstairs terrace for history whilestokingthefires withapintor 26 GleneaglesRd,Greenside; mainsUS$5.50-27; places. precinct inNewtownalsohasafew decent Theareaand Rosebank. aroundthecultural urbs, particularlyaroundMelville, Norwood Much of thenightlife isinthenorthernsub- the outrageous conservative. tothedownright ing mixof bars, pubsandclubs,ranging from Party-loving Jo’burg chang- hasaconstantly Drinking at about9.30pm. and HongKongstylerestaurants; mostclose cheap Taiwanese, Korean, Sichuan, Shanghai Chinatown (Map pp542–3 ) withanumberof Rd,andthere’s anestablished Observatory off onDerrickAve,near BrumaLake Cyrildene, day. open every cafés alongGrantAve, mostof which are There are more than20bars, restaurants and an eastJo’burg version of Melville’s 7thSt. restaurants thathasgrownandmatured into The suburbof Norwoodhasanenclave of OTHER SUBURBS formostofcooking. Closed January. ininnovativerooms, Yumspecialises fusion tion. Oneof thecity’smostcelebrated dining dinner; cocktails (US$2.40). cocktails over-24s. Tryone of andwell-priced thetasty than runningacross thefloors andisonly for place hasratsdaubed onthewallsrather town. when weswungthrough this wasdefinitely Melville’s hippesthangout Berlin Bar MELVILLE gay andlesbiannight. Thursdays whileSaturdayis isreggae night, shortofhorror, butthisplaceisnever action. Newtown) Horror Café CENTRE&NEWTOWN CITY Ratz Bar Ratz Other placestoeatintheeastern suburbsis Guildhall Bar&Restaurant Yum a Mp pp542-3; (Map

Theneongreen a décorisindeed ) Asmallrestaurant withabigreputa- Mp p547 ; (Map

( Mp p547; (Map % Agreat placetosoakupsome 011-726 2019;9B7thSt) % % % 011-482 9345;67thSt) 011-486 1645; www.yum.co.za; 011-486 1645;www.yum.co.za; 011-838 6735; 5 Becker St, 011-838 6735;5Becker

(Map (Map p547 ; lonelyplanet.com This cosy % h With 011-833 lunch & menu for late-night munchies.menu forlate-night lashings of orange décor. There’s afullfood retro-style offers affair beautifulpeopleand venues from WitsUniversity toCity Hall. stages aregular circuitof concerts,utilising such astempura (US$3)are served. trendy, noisyTokyo-stylebar. Asian snacks chic andloadsof plasticcharacterise this lonelyplanet.com sion US$9.50) Carfax Contemporary 2733; www.jpo.co.za) Orchestra Philharmonic Johannesburg Classical mous raves. come outtoplayandregularly holdenor- but it’sonweekends whenJo’burgers really Jo’burg ishometoathrivinglive musicscene, LIVE MUSIC&NIGHTCLUBS gate, malls. Sandton andRosebank with screens intheFourways,Westgate, East- .co.za) Kinekor shoppingcentre.with oneinalmostevery Huge cinemacentres are foundacrossJo’burg, CINEMAS www.computicket.com) credit card, contact bookingsby is alsogood.Forentertainment Mail &Guardian guideisinFriday’s The bestentertainment Entertainment mined drinkers. this isagoodspotattheweekends fordeter- action andanEnglishpub-styleambience, Ave) andwatchto sipacocktail Norwooddriftby. stairs terrace baratthisplaceistheperfect spot Sundeck Bar NORWOOD lively are nights asure thing. atmosphere, thumpingbass-linesandlate, of Jamaican-style bars ispopular. Arelaxed Jo’burg, thatthisfranchise soitisnosurprise 27A 4thAve) Cool Runnings Tokyo Star English Pub Mo Café Offering plentyof Offering rough-and-tumble hasthewidestdistributionof multiplexes,

(

(central bookings (central bookings % Reggae isaperennial Reggae favourite in

( This industrial space symbolises Thisindustrial spacesymbolises 011-834 9187; 39Pim St, Newtown;admis-

% ( %

(

( % % 011-728 8256;GrantAve) 011-728 2279;72GrantAve) GAUTENG ••Johannesburg

The city’sbuddingorchestra 011-834 9187;784thAve) 011-483 1101;cnrAlgernonSt&Grant Mp pp542-3; (Map . . ‘Tonight’ inthedaily . ‘Tonight’ Computicket % 082 16789;www.sterkinekor % ( %

Thiscamp, 011-482 4786; ( 011-915 8000; % Theup- Anime 011-789 Star Ster-

p547; crafts fromacrossthecountry. a community-runinitiative artsand selling shows every Saturdayat1pm. shows every withfreefor communitytalent, localtheatre of theMarket Theatre thatactsasashowcase of craftsandlotsof kitsch. % Newtown, you’llfind as aplacetogoshopping. Ashortwalkfrom tion. Theyare asmuch awealthywhite habitat Western consumergoodsof descrip- every Jo’burg on its mallsjammedwith pridesitself MALLS of teresting placetowanderaround, withplenty Rd) 9648; Observatory Factory, 2President St,Newtown; park. Mall’sSunday inRosebank car multilevel ellery, booksandfertility dolls.Held every beadwork,jew- shop fortraditionalcarvings, 5530) Market Rosebank Rooftop ARTS &CRAFTS Shopping Jazz International. as galleries,acaféandtheexcellentKippie’s SimonTheatres andBarney –aswell Laager There are three live theatre venues –theMain, venueis themostimportant forlive theatre. Bree St) .markettheatre.co.za; Theatre Market THEATRES the localhip-hopcrowd. here. Nextdoor,208keeps theflagflyingover bass androcktrackskeep thefeet tapping Botha Ave, OrangeGrove) around 9.30pm. at Gigs kickoffonFridayandSaturdaynights SouthAfricanjazztalent. the bestplacestosee Kippie’s isa Bree St,Newtown;admissionUS$7) 3316; www.kippies.co.za; musicscene.house-oriented club tickets intown,withweekend DJsanda integrated Jo’burg andisoneof thehottest Faraday Market Bruma Lake Market World Market Bruma Lake Beautiful Things 206 Live Other theatres includethe JazzInternational Kippie’s muti 011-838 6752; Bree St,Fordsburg; % One of themostconvenient placesto 011-836 0516;BezuidenhoutSt) stalls.

(Map (Map pp542-3 ; ‘must do’inJo’burg as it’soneof

Mp p547; (Map This place sells awiderange Thisplacesells

(cnr EloffSt&N2) (Map (Map p547 ; Garage, drum‘n’ ragga, Oriental Plaza Oriental TheMarket Theatre %

(Map (Map pp542-3 ; (Map (Map pp542-3 ; % h 011-728 5333;206Louis

(Map (Map p547 ; % h 011-832 1641;www 10am-4pm) Thisisanin- 011-492 3696;Bus Laboratory , an offshoot , anoffshoot 9am-5pm Mon-Fri, 9am-5pm Mon-Fri, (Map (Map pp542-3 ;

% % % Thisia 011-788 011-833 011-622 549 (Map (Map

SOUTH AFRICA AFRICA SOUTH SOUTH AFRICA other major buslines – more aswellthe informationaboutthese, 287; www.intercape.co.za) real Jo’burg inallitsdiversity. 19 hours) viaUpington(US$35, 10hours). (US$51 toUS$63, 19hours). Town at leastonebusrunning dailytoCape Intercape, Greyhound andTransluxall have To Cape Town mence inPretoria atthePretoria station. notheading northcom- in Jo’burg, allservices 2223; www.saroadlink.co.za) 1154; www.greyhound.co.za) .translux.co.za) owned linesof to/from Jo’burg isprovided bythegovernment- .com) Town)by Cape region (Swaziland,Durban,GardenRoute and Jo’burg tothemostpopularpartsof the you willalsofindthebookingoffices. centre, inthenorthwestcornerof thesite, where part fromandarrive atthePark transit Station bus lines(nationalandinternational) alsode- ziland andZimbabwe. Themainlong-distance Botswana,Namibia,Swa- zambique, Lesotho, Jo’burg fromthePark complexforMo- Station leave A numberof international busservices BUS offer much cheapest fares. Jo’burg withmajor destinationsandoften Kulula, 1Time andNationwide,alsolink and international terminals of JIA. SAA, which inthedomestic alsohasoffices .saexpress.co.za) and Airlink pp542-3; destinations try nesburg International. (JIA; mestic airportis South Africa’smajor international anddo- AIR &Away There Getting 8.30am-3pm Sat) 550 Except for City to City buses, which start forCitytobuses, Except The most comprehensive range of services The mostcomprehensive range of services Smaller budget airlines,includingComair, For regular tonationalandregional flights Intercape also runs to Cape Town (US$59, Intercape alsoruns toCape Backpackers cannowbeconnected from % . Allhostels have andprices. timetables South African Express South African

GAUTENG ••Johannesburg (SAAirlink; 011-921 6262;www.acsa.co.za) % 0861 359722;www.flysaa.com) and . All flights canbebooked . Allflights through , ourfavourite foralookatthe % Baz Bus City to Translux South African Airways South African OR Tambo Airport International 011-961 1700;www.saairlink.co.za) – see –see p592 . and , (

% SA Roadlink

Greyhound

( (

021-439 2323;www.bazbus ( % Intercape Intercape % % , formerlyJohan- 0861-589 282;www 011-978 5577;www 0861-589 282) , South African South African

( ( ( % % %

(SAA; Map (SAA; Map 0861 287 011-333 012-323 . For

Hazyview toKruger iscloser thanNelspruit, hours) andHazyview hours). (US$10,eight ices fromJo’burg toNelspruit(US$11,seven (US$1.40, five hours). bique daily(US$20,ninehours) viaNelspruit hour later. TransluxrunstoMaputo, Mozam- inJo’burgstarts andpicksupinPretoria an (US$25, five hours). Note thatthisservice Park isNelspruit.Greyhound runsthere daily The nearest large towntoKruger National To Mpumalanga&KrugerNationalPark hours). Intercape hours), (US$17,eight eight asdoes has atleastonebusadaytoDurban(US$23, hours).Richard’s (US$30,eight Translux Bay Estcourt (US$24,7½hours), andthenonto (US$24,6½hours) and hours), Ladysmith Newcastle(US$26,fiveices thatrunthrough hours),(US$28, eight includingslowerserv- Greyhound toDurban hasfourdailybuses To Durban&KwaZulu-Natal part daily. Town(US$34,19hours). de- Buses to Cape offers competitive highly rates fromJo’burg but there isn’tadirect connection. Namibia(US$34,12hours), bus toWindhoek, From Upington,youcanalsoget anIntercape (Pietersburg; US$19, five hours). Intercape (US$20, 7½hours). Tzaneen (US$17, 6½hours) andPhalaborwa Limpopo,stopping in that headeastthrough US$18, 4½hours). Transluxalsohas services four hours) andPolokwane(Pietersburg; viaMokopane(Potgietersrus;goes US$17, hours), butthisstrangely arrives at2am!It as Makhado (Louis Trichardt; US$18,6½ togettaxi totheborder. there you’ll have toget alocalbusorminibus go asfarPolokwane(Pietersburg). From toZimbabwe. Mostnowonly offering services At thetimeof writing,nobuscompanieswere To theNorth erly Kruger NationalPark camp. good optionifyou’re atamore staying north- Phalaborwa (US$20,7½hours), which isa trips intothepark. and hasbackpackers’ hostels thatcanarrange Greyhound has daily services toPolokwane Greyhound hasdaily services asfar hasadailyservice Translux does SA Roadlink,thenewestbuscompany, City tohassomeslow,cheap serv- Translux also has daily buses runningto Translux alsohasdailybuses lonelyplanet.com overnight fromJo’burg to PortElizabeth US$16, 4½hours) viaPretoria, andthesmaller Jo’burgbetween andPolokwane(Pietersburg; hours). (US$20, seven also headsnorthtoGaborone,Botswana lonelyplanet.com ations) on NoordSt,eastof JoubertPark; and (andother FreeBloemfontein destin- State George St;Pretoria onNoord St;Lesotho, taxis atthenorthernendofBulawayo taxis King Upington onWanderers St; StnearLeyds the direction of Townand Kimberley,Cape luggage. whilecarryingyour forataxi go searching the riskof itisn’tagoodideato mugging, ofConcourse andWanderers St.Because tion over theMetro the train tracksbetween new road-transportinterchange inPark Sta- The majority of already minibustaxis the use MINIBUS TAXI bill whenitcomestoreturning thecar. kilometres andyoumayendupwithanasty main operators offer alimited numberof free various locationsaroundthecity.Many of the at ORTambo International Airportandat All themajor rental operators have counters CAR price.Knysna forthesame trip takes 17hours. Intercape alsooperates to andGeorgeBay (allUS$38fromJo’burg); the thenOudtshoorn,Mossel four timesweekly, berley three orBloemfontein timesweekly 13 hours). London(US$36, (US$42, 15hours) andEast Plettenberg (US$42,18hours). Bay beth viaCradock(US$40,15hours) andonto (US$40, 14½hours). viaCradock a TuesdayandSundayservice (US$40,14½hours), and and Graaff-Reinet hours) (US$30,10hours) viaBloemfontein from Jo’burg toPortElizabeth(US$47,14½ (notonSundayandTuesday) aweek services hours). Transluxalsohasfive(US$20, seven London (US$43,15hours) viaBloemfontein toEast Translux operates adailyservice To theSouth connections toTzaneen andPhalaborwa. towns enroute. FromPolokwane,there are Translux runstoKnysna(US$36)viaKim- Greyhound thattravel hasdailybuses You can also find minibus taxis goingin You canalsofindminibustaxis toPortEliza- Intercape has dailyservices LinkTours North GAUTENG ••Johannesburg

( % 015-291 1867) runs buses runsbuses at Jo’burg’s Park Station. two blocks west of the Carlton Centre, and two blocks westof Centre, the Carlton area. The mainbusterminal isat GandhiSq, covering 108routes intheGreater Jo’burg Sq) 375 5555;www.mbus.co.za; Gandhi BusServices Metropolitan BUS collect youfromtheairport. before youget intothecab.Mosthostels will agree ona price otherwise erally beused, way tothenorthernsuburbs.Meters willgen- shuttle. ( if youare carrying yourbags.The here so headingstraight isnottobeadvised tion isconfusingandknownformuggings, Theareatails. immediately aroundPark Sta- (Metrobus; 45 minutes); contact JIAandParkhour between (US$11, Station half runevery 5amand10pm,buses Between 25km eastof centralJo’burg inKempton Park. merly Johannesburg International) isabout OR Tambo for- International Airport(JIA; TO/FROM THEAIRPORT Around Getting ( p595 . Tickets canbebooked atthe Jo’burg andelsewhere inthecountry,see 18 to/from For informationontrainservices TRAIN 14 Tzaneen 18 30 18 Thohoyandou (Venda) 4 Pretoria Polokwane (Pietersburg) Nelspruit 23 47 (Mozambique) Maputo 19 (Swaziland) Manzini 22 Komatipoort 23 Kimberley 38 13 Harrismith (Botswana) Gaborone Durban 26 Cape Town Bulawayo (Zimbabwe) Destination Fare trips fromJo’burg includethefollowing: and NoordSts.Fares fluctuate, butrates for nearthecornerofDurban taxis Wandeers (US$) % % Taxis are expensive ataroundUS$43one 0860 008888) 011-884 3957) % 011-375 5555;www.mbus.co.za) kiosk on the main concourse kioskonthemainconcourse isanotherreputable airport Metropolitan Bus Services BusServices Metropolitan (Metrobus; Map Map (Metrobus; p547 ;

runs services runsservices Airport Link Airport forde- Spoornet % 551 011-

SOUTH AFRICA AFRICA SOUTH SOUTH AFRICA 8000; www.computicket.com) is expected within 15years toform partof a government buildings. local inthelessgrandiose council holdseat while ablackmayor andablack-dominated intheUnionBuildings, Mbeki hashisoffice the liberated country’sblackpresident. Thabo byword forwhite dominationisnowhometo amount of historyforitsage. administrative –carriesaremarkable capital dela, thepretty, laid-back cityof Pretoria –the the presidential inaugurationof NelsonMan- headquarters of theapartheidstate and site of At oncethe‘AfrikanerJerusalem’, former % PRETORIA Metro lineshouldalsobeavoided. with blacktownships. TheJo’burg–Pretoria the Metro system, mostlyonlinesconnecting a very problem withviolentcrimeon serious in thePark concourse. There Station hasbeen ices call,orvisitthehelpfulinformationoffice For inquiriesabout TRAIN TaxisRose’s Radio TaxiMaxi Cabs US$10, andsignificantlymore toSandton. should atriptoRosebank costaround Station rankatParka fare Fromthetaxi attheoutset. toaskalocalthelikelywise priceandagree on this city.Theyoperate meters iftheywork.It’s Taxis are in anexpensive evil butnecessary TAXI zone.a mugging end of theroute andavoid rank–it’s thetaxi Jo’burg, besure toget before off itreaches the anywhere. city centre andUS$1.20willget youalmost will get youaroundtheinnersuburbsand Fares dependingonroutes, differ butUS$0.70 MINIBUS TAXI the busterminal orComputicket US$6).Travellers tag (starter from buytags Metrobus prefer system itstag youtouse (US$1.40). zone one(US$0.50)toeight fares workonazonalsystem rangingfrom 552 International TaxiInternational Pretoria isjust50km fromJo’burg, and Ironically, thecitythatforsolong wasa Three reputable firms: intocentral If youdotake aminibustaxi 012 /pop1.65million GAUTENG ••Pretoria ( % ( ( % 011-648 1212) % Metro 011-403 9625) 011-390 1502) . (

% 011-773 5878) ( % 011-915 serv- small communityof farmers suddenlycontrol- in thelate thesituation.A 1880srevolutionised was againgranted totheTransvaalin1906, be atwarwiththeBritish.Self-government and within20years wouldagain theBoers led someof therichest real intheworld estate Civil War. the sceneof duringthe1863–69Boer fighting torius, heroof of theBattle BloodRiver, was Pretoria, which wasnamedafter Andries Pre- violent disputes themselves. amongtheBoers were ongoingwars withtheblacktribesand wasashaky There institutionthough. ZAR asthesitebought fortherepublic’s The capital. and Vaal Rivers. then Orange, Free theOrange Statebetween Republiek northof theVaal River, andtothe, independence totheZuid-Afrikaansche in theearly1850swhenBritishgranted The Great Trek reached itslogicalconclusion History nightlife. university studentsdrive Pretoria’s vibrant remaincapital whilethetens of of thousands educational institutionsassociated withthe remains and Afrikaans culturally.Military at aslowerpacethanitsgiantneighbour and megalopolis of 20millionpeople. Yet itmoves ing west to Church Sq,thehistoric centre of Menlyn, BrooklynandAr cadia, before head- restaurant zonesof the suburbsof Hatfield, which themainnightlife and runsthrough should hittheeastern edge of Church St, of theUnionBuildings. which stand east belowalong further onisthecityproper,spreading westto grounded spaceship.Acoupleof kilometres building, lookinglikeSouth Africa(Unisa) a suddenly, andyou’llnoticetheUniversity of port. FromJo’burg, theM1freeway quietens Jo’burg, orfromORTambo International Air- You willlikely arrive in Pretoria byroadfrom Orientation Hendrik Verwoerd. came intoexistence undertheleadership of until 1961,whentheRepublicof SouthAfrica 1910 butPretoria wasnottoregain itsstatus Union of SouthAfrica came intobeingin ria wasmadetheadministrative The capital. Preto- anunwieldycompromise and through The discovery of goldontheWitwatersrand In 1853twofarmsontheApiesRiver were If youenter thecityfromairport,you koppie , onthenorthernside lonelyplanet.com bet for logging on. bet forlogging bookings andinquiries. h Savage Rd)Theplacetoheadforinamedicalemergency. known suburbanclinic. EMERGENCY Information the UnionBuildings. the cityandhometohotels, embassiesand lonelyplanet.com The square formedby Vermeulen, roughly ing tothe safer Hatfield andBrooklynareas. with restaurants mov- andotherbusinesses particularly inthe citycentre andSunnyside, than Jo’burg. crime is aproblem, Thatsaid, Pretoria safer andmore iscertainly relaxed Dangers &Annoyances 8am-2pmSat) Mon-Fri, tonoonSat;callcentre 7.30am-5pm fices 8am-4pmMon-Fri, www.sanparks.org; 643Leyds St,NewMuckleneuk; of weekends. on astonishingly foracitythissize,closes Sq; www.tshwane.gov.za; OldNederlandscheBankBldg,Church The TOURIST INFORMATION main square. building onthe tonoonSat)Inanhistoric 4.30pm Mon-Fri, postoffice Main POST Nedbank Express American ties acrosstown. There are bankswithATMs andchange facili- MONEY AcademicHospital Pretoria Hatfield Clinic MEDICAL SERVICES ies, BurnettSt;per30minUS$2; Cafe Odyssey Internet ties, butcheaper alternatives are available. Most hostels andhotels offer internet facili- ACCESSINTERNET Police Service Rescue Emergency Metro Fire Galleries. South African National Parks South African Also inPretoria isthenationalheadoffice h 9am-5pm) ( % Tourist InformationCentre Tourist ( 7.30am-4pm Mon-Fri) % 10111) (cnrBurnett&Festival toHatfield Sts)Next 10111) There is a police station on Railway St. 10111) There isapolicestationonRailway ( % (cnrChurchSt&Sq; GAUTENG ••Pretoria ( % 012-362 7180; 454 Hilda St)Awell- 012-362 7180;454Hilda for all your wildlife reserve forallyourwildlife reserve (

% 012-346 2599; Brooklyn Mall; 012-346 2599;BrooklynMall; ispretty and, useless 012-362 2467;HatfieldGaller- h ( % (SAN; 9am-11pm)

011-354 1000;Dr

( ( % % % 012-358 1430; 10177) 012-428 9111; isagood h 8am- h of- office workersoffice lounging onthegrass. Lion’, Paul Kruger, looksdisapprovingly at western side. andthemainpostoffice atthe tion Centre; theTouristInforma- Riche andhouses Café building,whichlandsche adjoinsthe Bank held, onthenorthernside;Old Neder- Nelson Mandela tolife imprisonmentwas Justice, where theRivoniaTrialthatsentenced inthenortheastern; thePalacetional Bank of Theatre inthenorthwestern corner;First Na- building onthesouthernside;OldCapitol (OldGovernment)clude theOuRaadsaal buildings surrounds At theheartof Pretoria, imposing public CHURCH SQUARE it’s a10-minute walkuphill. entrance roadtothemonument,fromwhere Church Sq.Ask thedriver toletyouoff atthe Valhalla busfromKruger Stnear thecornerof is possibletocatch theVoortrekkerhoogte or and thehighveld. roof andagreat panoramicviewof Pretoria River. leadtothe andelevator Astaircase story of thetrek andof of theBattle Blood impressiveInside, ahighly bas-relief tells the cube inspired bytheruinsof Great Zimbabwe. sive with64wagonsinatraditionaldefen- carved South Africa. Africa’ andtheirhistoricalrelationship to a powerfulsymbolof the ‘White Tribe of attended by250,000peopleandstillremains 12,000 Zulus. of AndriesPretorius, defeated approximately during which underthecommand 470Boers, ofBattle BloodRiver on16December1838, ent spirit.Inparticular,itcommemorates the andindepend- pioneering totheBoers’ tament the Voortrekkers, thestructure remains ates- 1949 tocommemorate theachievements of many Afrikaners. 1938and Builtbetween vehicle US$1.40; ( The looming &MUSEUM Sights &Activities reputation. Du Toit,BoomandSchubert Stshasabad % In thecentre, abronzesculpture of the‘Old The monumentis3kmsouthof thecity.It The edificeissurroundedbyastonewall The building’sinaugurationin1949was 012-323 0682;Eeufees Rd;adult/childUS$3.40/1.40, laager . The building itself isahuge. Thebuildingitself stone h Voortrekker Monument&Museum Voortrekker 8am-6pm) Church Square ishallowedturffor . These in- . These 553

SOUTH AFRICA AFRICA SOUTH ὈὈ ὈὈ ὈὈὈὈ ὈὈὈὈ 14 N

R101 SOUTH AFRICA

554 Potgieter St Potgieter Train Station Belle Ombre 4 6 1 3 2 5 PRETORIA Museum (1.5km) Voortrekker Monument & To OppikoppiBar(400m); 23 Province North-West (100km); To Rustenburg

GAUTENG ••Pretoria Schubart St Schubart

Church St

Bosman Street 3rd ὈὈ ὈὈ ὈὈ ὈὈ ὈὈ Train Station

Boom St

Schoeman St A

Bloed St

Vermeulen St Struben St

Proes St

Jacob Maré St

Skinner St

Skinner St

Visagie St Bosman St Bosman

Entrance 4th N

4 36

Minnaar St

18 N

4 25 38 St 9 Volkstem R101

Church Paul Kruger St Kruger Paul Sq

Pretorius St

44 33 Pretoria St Kruger Paul Ὀ Ὀ ὈὈ Station Pretoria Central Train 42 24

22 43 St Andries M 8 5th

B

Scheiding St Burgers

Rail

Park

way

Van der Walt St Walt der Van Odyssey InternetCafe...... New ZealandEmbassy...... Nedbank...... Namibian Embassy...... Mozambiquan HighCommission.. Main PostOffice...... Lesotho Embassy...... Irish Embassy...... German Embassy...... French Embassy...... Dutch Embassy...... Canadian HighCommission...... Botswanan HighCommission...... Australian Embassy...... INFORMATION St JG Strijdom 45

Sq 6th

8 41 St Prinsloo Nelson Mand Dr Savage Rd

ela Blvd

Flowers St Flowers Normaal St Toit Du 7th

Station Gerhard Moerdyk St Mears

To Doornkloof(12km); Train Berea St Berea Airport (46km) Johannesburg International 15 Dr Savage Rd

Soutpansberg Rd C 14 13 12 11 10 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Mears St SIGHTS&ACTIVITIES 9 8th Ὀ G4 G4 G4 E3 D3 A4 B4 H3 E3 F3 F4 G4 H3 F4

Mears St SA PoliceMuseum...... Gardens...... Pretoria NationalZoological Paul KrugerHouseMuseum...... Museum ofAnthropology...... Zimbabwean HighCommission.... US Embassy...... UK HighCommission...... Tourist InformationCentre...... Swazi Embassy...... ParksHeadOffice...... South AfricanNational Pretoria AcademicHospital......

16 Greef St Troye St St Beatrix

Edmond St

Devenish Street Walker St Walker

Jeppe St Jeppe Train Station St Rissik 29

10 Leyds St St Hamilton N

Celliers St 4 N 4

Vermeulen St Muckleneuk Kotze St Kotze ὈὈ ὈὈ ὈὈ ὈὈ

Church St lonelyplanet.com

Devenish St Berea St Berea Leyds St

Annie Betha

Rose Esselen St Esselen D

Pretorius St

Bourke St Schoeman St

Park St Park Reitz St Reitz 21 20 19 18 17 16 15 25 24 23 22 A4 B3 A4 B5 E3 F4 H3 A4 E3 C6 C2

Vos St ὈὈ ὈὈ ὈὈ ὈὈ ὈὈ lonelyplanet.com Buildings

Meintjieskop Union Wessels St Wessels 31 George Ὀ Ὀ EATING SLEEPING Diplomat Guesthouse...... Chancellor's Court...... Harrie's PannekoekHuis...... (see35) Café Riche...... Café 41...... Pub&Grill...... Africa Traditional Victoria Hotel...... That's It...... Sheraton Pretoria...... Pretoria Backpackers...... Orange CourtLodge...... North SouthBackpackers...... Brink Park Walker Street Arcadia Train Station To BuleCrane(1.4km);Cynthia's Indigo Sunnyside Mood (1.6km);Crawdaddy's(1.5km); Park

Johnston St 11 6

Meat Company (1.6km); Jorissen St Jorissen Blackwood St Blackwood 17 Bule Crane(1.4km); E

Reitz St Reitz Minni St Arcadia

Rivier St Jameson St Jameson

GAUTENG ••Pretoria

Melville St Brecher St St Beckett East St East Ὀ ὈὈὈὈ ὈὈὈὈ

Gov

Bond St George Rd

Merton Ave

Thomas Ave

21

ern

Queen Wilhelmina Ave Wilhelmina Queen Venning Park me Farenden St Farenden 36 35 34 33 32 31 30 29 28 27 26 Rose Garden 30 32

26 nt Ave nt 27 5 B5 F4 E4 F5 D3 H4 F4 F4 A4 F4 G4 Clydesdale 40

4 Kirkness St St Eastwood TRANSPORT ENTERTAINMENT DRINKING Kariba Restaurant...... Jose's...... Taxi Rank...... Taxi Rank...... Long-distance MinibusTaxis...... Bus Terminus...... State Theatre...... Herr Gunther's...... (see34) Eastwood's...... Cool Runnings...... Loftus Versfeld Versfeld

Stadium Harcourt Ave Train Station Loftus F Muckleneuk 35 (Bailey's) 20

Russel St

Orient St Orient Geo

Arcadia St Tom Jenkins St

Lynnwood Rd

Park St

1 rge

University Rd Wash

Hill St Hill ing

of Pretoria University

Schoeman St Pretorius St

Church St ton Blvd Rissik Train 41 45 44 43 42 40 39 38 37 Station

ὈὈ

Murray St Murray Roper St F4 G4 A4 G3 B4 B4 B5 B4 B4 Charles St Charles R104 N To NationalBotanicalGardens 4 N

4

G Festival St Festival Meintjiesdrif

(3km); Boeremark(4km) Marais St Marais Hatfield 12 39 37 14

34 William St St Hilda Springbok 13 0.3miles 0 0 3 Hatfield Sq Park Ὀ

Hillcrest

Soutpansberg Rd Duxbury St Duxbury

To BronbergCountryLodge(5km); Frances St Frances

Duncan St St Grosvenor Mpumalanga viaN4(73km)

Allcock St 2 Belgrave To 1322Backpackers International (400m) Brooklyn Hartbeespruit Train Station LimpopoviaN1(50km);

Sq Amos St Amos Johannesburg (53km);

H Alexander St St Duncan

Burnett St

Prospect St Doreen St Doreen South St 7 28 500 m

Arcadia St

Gordon St

19 555

Glyn St Glyn

4 6 1 3 2 5 22 M SOUTH AFRICA AFRICA SOUTH SOUTH AFRICA cleverly designedto mimiclog-cabincleverly accom- sites/dm/s/d US$6/9/13/16; 1322Arcadia St,Hatfield;camp www.1322backpackers.com; International 1322 Backpackers BUDGET east of thecentre. and boutiquehotels. Again, tend tobe these also hasitsfairshare of upmarket business looking formidrange B&Boptions. Thecity Muckleneuk, isalsothebestplace tostart andalongwithBrooklynNewghetto intosomethingofdeveloped abackpacker Hatfield, withitsbars andrestaurants, has Sleeping offices. gardens andare hometothepresidential grandeur –are surroundedbyexpansive imperial structures –withaself-conscious government. Theimpressive red sandstone buildingsareThese theheadquarters of of ahillthatoverlooks thecity. probably thecablecarth is away anafternoon, thehighlight however impressive spottowhile enough andpleasant & BoomSts;adult/childUS$4.70/3; gardens zoological About 1kmnorthof thecitycentre isthe GARDENS NATIONALPRETORIA ZOOLOGICAL the nation’spoliceforce. of exhibitscovering theturbulenthistoryof one of withscores thecity’sbetter museums, child US$1.40/0.90; The SOUTH AFRICANPOLICEMUSEUM the Kruger, butyoucan’tget malariaeither. indigenous animalsandbirds.It’snotexactly 7632; Paul KrugerSt;adult/childUS$1.40/0.90; Opposite CityHall, this MUSEUM OFANTHROPOLOGY man amongallthebric-a-brac. toget afeeling forthe esting, butit’sdifficult former residence of Paul Kruger. It’sinter- adult/child US$1.40/0.70; Kruger HouseMuseum A shortwalkwestfromChurch Sqisthe PAUL KRUGERHOUSEMUSEUM 556 Mon-Sat, 11am-5pmSun) police museum GAUTENG ••Pretoria h

( 9am-5pm Mon-Sat,11am-5pmSun)

(cnr Pretorius &VolkstemSts;adult/ (cnr Pretorius % hasdioramasof various h ( % ps 012-328 3265;cnrPaul Kruger 8am-4.30pm Mon-Fri) 012-326 9172;60ChurchSt; at runsuptothetop museum h Afriendly hostel )

( 8am-6pm) % 012-362 3905;

( h % . It’san 9am-5pm 012-322 , the Paul is the high lifethe high of BurnettSt,buthasatirelessly This hostel of iswithineasywalkingdistance in 1894,thisgracious,historicplace has10 serviced apartments, with TV andkitchen. apartments,withTV serviced this oasisamongtheconcrete jungleoffers ton StandnotfarfromtheUnionBuildings, Scheiding St;s/dwithbreakfast US$60/83; pleasant guesthouse inaleafysuburbhas guesthouse pleasant Located nearthecornerof Farenden St,this St, Clydesdale;s/dwithbreakfast US$42/55; It That’s MIDRANGE and spacious,wood-floored rooms. garden andfishpond,open-planchilling area verted toHatfield homeclose withapleasant bathroom US$20/30; 425Farendeniabackpackers.net; St;dmUS$11,s/dwithshared Jacuzzi. reinvigorate wearyfeet withasoakinthe perfect spottoescapebackintothebush,or offers abreath of fresh, countryair. It’sthe eastern reaches of Pretoria, thisrusticplace campsites/dm/dUS$7/9.50/28; erpoort; Plot207,LynwoodRd,Tieg-.bronbergbackpackers.co.za; garden. pleasant travel dinners,tasty asavvy agency anda convivial buzzof itsown.Trimmingsinclude dm US$6/11,s/dwithshared bathUS$18/24; 355GlynSt,Hatfield;campsites/ northsouthbackpackers.com; lights. own night beds are madeof chunky woodandhave their Dorm modation despite itssuburbansetting. US$78/103; 822Arcadia St,Arcadia;s/dwithbreakfast.thediplomat.co.za; comforts. Victorian-style rooms withallthecreature Hotel Victoria TOP END US$54/108/162; 540Vermeulenabsamail.co.za; St;1-/2-/3-bedroomapt four-bed familyunit(US$70). self-catering ofoption forgroupsorfamiliesbecause the what old-fashioned) rooms.It’sagood withspacious(ifsome- mended guesthouse pas 797Park St,Clydesdale;s/dUS$47/54; cellorscourt.co.za; good-sized rooms. Diplomat Guesthouse Lodge Orange Court Chancellor’s Court Backpackers Pretoria Bronberg CountryLodge Bronberg SouthBackpackers North

( % pais ) A well-located, reader-recom- Book accommodationBook online at lonelyplanet.com 012-344 3404; www.thatsit.co.za; 5Brecher012-344 3404;www.thatsit.co.za;

pa ( % pis 012-323 6054;fax012-3242426;200 ) Onthecornerof Hamil-

(

( % % (

% Anearly-20th-century )

012-326 6346; orangecourt@ 012-326 6346;orangecourt@ ( 012-344 1404;www.chan % 012-343 9754;www.pretor

( ( ) Thisisalarge con- % % 012-344 3131;www 012-811 0497;www lonelyplanet.com 012-362 0989;info@ p pa pas pis ) On the ) Built )

) African beatsmake thisoneof themore up- An outdoordeck,goodfoodandtraditional tifully designedbistro-stylerestaurant with and sweet pancakesand sweet withextremely imagina- something different forthepalate –savoury in theheartof thecity’sChurch Sq. historic eateries, enjoyingachoice spotright mains US$4.70-13; Book accommodationBook online at lonelyplanet.com furniture. filledwithimpressiveguesthouse looking ting forthisimmaculately designedfour-star home anditsbeautifulgardenare theset- lonelyplanet.com it’s plate-breaking (FridaysandSatur- nights this quality eatery isalocalfavourite. When ranean foodsmean you’llunderstand why h Hatfield. beat, laid-back optionsindistinctlybourgeois Sts;mainsUS$5.50; &Hilda cnr Prospect village. that makes youforget you’re inashopping a large outdoordeck,andahiddensection There’s a massive menuandswiftservice. chutney variant. sultana tive fillings.Wetriedthepickledfishand h 342 3613;EastwoodSq,Rd;mainsUS$4-5.40; Pannekoek Huis Harrie’s HATFIELD &ARCADIA h dishes. ofselection heartyWest-and SouthAfrican with localbusinesstypes,thankslargely toits restaurant isalunchtimeefficient favourite Theatre,in thebeautifulformerCapitol this mains US$2.80-5.50; Restaurant Kariba CENTRE CITY considerations. ommendations inthecitycentre duetosafety New Muckleneuk.There are few eatingrec- Most peopleheadtoHatfield, Brooklyn and Eating top-notch service. able, spick-and-spanSheraton trimmingsand Pretoria’s glitziestplace,itoffers allthereli- .com; cnrChurch&WesselsSt;rfromUS$109; Jose’s TraditionalPub&Grill Africa Riche Café Café 41 Café Sheraton Pretoria lunch &dinner) breakfast, lunch&dinner) lunch &dinner)

(

% ( %

( % 012-430 7778; 235 Hilda St;mainsUS$8; 012-430 7778;235Hilda 012-342 8914;EastwoodSq,Rd; h Thisisoneof Pretoria’s more Platters of delicious Mediter- 012-328 3173;2ChurchSt;mainsUS$4-8; GAUTENG ••Pretoria h

( breakfast, lunch&dinner) %

( breakfast &lunchMon-Sat) % (Harry’s Pancake House; 012-326 5654;1Parliament St;

Aslickoutfitoffering 012-429 9999;www.sheraton

( % h pais 012-362 1604; lunch &dinner) Abeau- Based % 012-

) Hill (opposite theVoortrekker Monument), sible, but the steak is fabulous, the seafood sible, butthesteak isfabulous,theseafood laid downtheirlives tomake thismenupos- looks alake thatisthebreeding site forthe St) 11; cnr Middle &DeySts;mainsUS$5.50-8; cnr Middle at sunset, andthebaroffersat sunset, DIY braais. The views over thecity are great, particularly this isoneof thebest-located pubsinPretoria. tion stakes. clearly notintheintegra-in arow,though the ‘bestpubinPretoria’ awardthree years during andafter anyrugbyencounter. It’s won Sts) tosoak themup. sausages 2Ljugsof and beer, raucous placeserves quite drunken after 10pm. getthe party.Nights hot,steamy andreally ular drinkinghaunt,butanyone’swelcomeat rulestheroostatthisperenniallyReggae pop- bravado andstudentshenanigans. withlashingsofall cutthrough backpacker fers densityof ahigh bars, eateries andclubs, Hatfield, catering foralltypes.BurnettStof- There are bars intrendy andnightspots several Drinking greens (US$7),too. there’s animpressivedon’t despair: platter of ernous paeantothecarnivorous.Vegetarians (US$6) isbecomingalocallegend atthiscav- US$9-16; winecellar.It alsohasacolossal sublime andtheatmosphere cosyandstylish. mains US$7-20; the pubisgreat atsundown. Afrikaner tional bird.Itdoes endangered bluecrane,SouthAfrica’sna- food tucker. steakatmosphere andsea- andno-nonsense placehas ajumping,bar-style surf-and-turf a Crawdaddy’s BROOKLYN &NEWMUCKLENEUK outdoor seating. days), you’llunderstand whythere’s somuch A Germanic answertotheIrishbar,this AGermanic Eastwood’s Cool Runnings Company Meat Cynthia’s IndigoMoon Oppikoppi Bar Herr Gunther’s Blue Crane h ThisArcadiainstitutionispacked before, ) Withfaux-Louisiana-swampstyling,this lunch &dinner; h lunch &dinner;

(

h ( % % ( %

lunch &dinner;

012-460 0589;Shop3,BrooklynPiazza, ( (

( 012-460 7615; Melk St;mainsUS$5.50- 012-460 7615;Melk % % ( % % 012-344 0243;cnrEastwood&Park a 012-460 2515; 273 Middle St;mains 012-460 2515;273Middle 012-362 6975;HatfieldSq,Burnett 082-499 7668) 012-362 0100;1075BurnettSt) ) Thisrestaurant over-

( a % ) The house burger Thehouse 012-346 8926;283DeySt; a h Alotof cows ) OnMagasyn potjiekos lunch &dinner; and 557

SOUTH AFRICA AFRICA SOUTH SOUTH AFRICA full details of services. full details these north uptheN1alsostophere –see p550 for running Town originate inPretoria. Services Jo’burg toDurban,the southcoastandCape will pick up anddropoff at Pretoria hostels. two cities,itwillcost about US$6. in time. the Ifyouonlywant to gobetween Jo’burg regardless of theone-hourdifference from Pretoria are from identicaltothose 5105; www.saroadlink.co.za) www.greyhound.co.za) 287; www.intercape.co.za) City to here.information offices forecourt. Youwillalsofindbookingand Building leave buses Most long-distance fromthe Jo’burg, unless thegeneral direction isnorth. commence inPretoria before pickingupin Most nationalandinternational busservices BUS across theglobe. See p752 forinformation. Africa’s international from hub,withflights OR Tambo International AirportisSouth AIR &Away There Getting theatre. tions –includingopera,music,balletand &ChurchSts) cnr Prinsloo Theatre State THEATRES friend oraspartof atour. are these bestvisitedshebeens; withablack Mamelodi andAtteridgeville, have plentyof the latest listings. uninspiring. Checkoutthe tion, Pretoria’s live-music scenecanbeabit Despite beinghometoalarge studentpopula- LIVE MUSIC&NIGHTCLUBS bookings. .sterkinekor.co.za) daily. Pretoria. The There are large several cinema complexes in CINEMAS Entertainment 558 Translux, Greyhound andIntercape fares The surroundingtownships,especially Ster-Kinekor Baz Bus Most GAUTENG ••Pretoria

(Scheiding St) Translux

(Cape Town ( %

( % also provides listingsandmakes 0861-589 282)

Pretoria News Pretoria (central bookings (central bookings ( % 012-392 4000;www.statetheatre.co.za; inthePretoria train-station and % hostsarange of produc- 0861-589 282;www.translux.co.za) , Greyhound 021-439 2323; www.bazbus.com) services runningfrom services SA Roadlink , Intercape Pretoria News Pretoria % lists screenings

( % 082 16789;www

( 012-323 1154; ( % % 0861 287 012-323 1928 for ,

METRO METRO bus terminal. Paul Kruger SttoChurch Sq,themainlocal walk fromthecitycentre. runalong Buses originates here. which linksPretoria, Town Jo’burg andCape Zimbabwe border. Theluxury Polokwane (Pietersburg) toMusina,nearthe via Nelspruit).The Komati (daily fromPretoria Town)andthe toCape Pretoriarunning through are the Line Main TRAIN ations includingJo’burg (US$4). andtravelthe trainstation toahostof destin- gofromthemainterminalMinibus taxis by MINIBUS TAXIS panies are represented inPretoria. Many larger localandinternational com- CAR (US$26, 6½hours). Tzaneen (US$20,five hours) andPhalaborwa Polokwane (Pietersburg; US$1.40,3½hours), from the1928Buildingandheadsnorthto and Van derWaltSts, and onthecorner of There are ranks onthecorner of taxi Church TAXI US$0.90, depending onthedistance. pharmacies. Fares range fromUS$0.70 to bus terminus available fromtheinquiryofficeinmain A bookletof androute timetables mapsis There’s anextensive networkof localbuses. BUS &MINIBUSTAXI ing US$13to/fromhostels andhotels. Pretoria hour,charg- aboutevery day andnight ORTambobetween International Airportand hotels, offer free pick-up. If youcallahead,mosthostels, andmany TO/FROM THEAIRPORT Around Getting Jo’burg byMetro. recommend travelling Pretoria between and of incidentsof high crime,wedon’t Because Get YouThere Get LinkTours North Pretoria isabout a20-minute trainstation (daily fromJo’burg toKomatipoort

( %

( 0860 008888;www.spoornet.co.za) %

( 012-308 0839;ChurchSq) %

( % 012-346 3175) Bosvelder 012-323 0379) lonelyplanet.com runsnorthvia runsshuttles Blue Train, Trans Karoo alsoruns orfrom trains

807; perkmUS$1.10). AROUND PRETORIA AROUND PRETORIA get ametered from taxi Pretorius andPaul Kruger Sts.Oryoucan lonelyplanet.com ( Around 9km eastof thecitycentre, the National Botanical Gardens kilometre off themain road. 34km –thecentre isontheleft,abouthalfa Hartbeespoort), take Rte 5131northwest for inadvance.week are andyoushouldcallatleasta essential only ifyou’re fit!Bookingsforallactivities run,but can alsogoonathrillingcheetah their precarious existence inthewild.You ferent age groupsbeingfed, andlearnabout cheetahs of dif- In anopentruckyou’llsee some of Africa’smostendangered predators. gered species list. here thatthe theendan- isnowoff cheetah to alarge degree it’sthankstotheworkdone endangered animals. Fri) runsUS$14; US$25, cheetah Rd;tours Farm North www.dewildt.org.za; 513Pretoria 22,Rte Centre Research Wildt Cheetah west of Pretoria, impressive isthehighly Just pastHartbeespoort, about 50kmnorth- Centre Research De WildtCheetah to Irene. route fromPretoria isalongLouisBothaAve freeway (US$3.80)andRte 21.Themostdirect ing life. and gives intoSmuts’amaz- avividinsight shaded bytrees, ithasafamilyatmosphere, & Sun) per carUS$0.70; Nelmapius Rd,Irene; adult/childUS$0.70/0.40,picnicgarden museum kloof turned intoanexcellent andhasbeen to 1924,and19391948. was thecountry’sprimeminister from1919 An architect of theUnionof South Africa,he general, politicianandinternational statesman. JCSmutswasabrilliantscholar, Boer General Museum House Smuts’ Thu, Sat & Sun, cheetah runssummer/winter7am/8amTueThu, Sat&Sun,cheetah & % , famousforitsbreeding successof rare and To get toDeWildtfromPretoria (via issignposted fromboththeN14 The house Tours provide into afascinatinginsight Work beganatDeWildtinthe1960sand Smuts’ homewasonceknownasDoorn- 012-114 3200; CussoniaAve, adult/child Brummeria; . Surroundedbyawideveranda and ( % 012-667 1941; [email protected]; 012-667 1941;[email protected]; h FREESTATE ••Bloemfontein 9.30am-4.30pm Mon-Fri, to5pmSat 9.30am-4.30pm Mon-Fri, h tours 8.30am&1.30pmTue, Rixi TaxisRixi

( % 012-504 1921;

( % 0800 325 gardens De

place boasts afew interesting attractions, time to kill withincitylimits thisrelaxed ifyou’ve However, anything else. gotsome definitely more of ajumping-off pointthan if you aresights in theneighbourhood. It’s ithasafew although interestingvisit Bloem, There’s noreal reason togooutof yourwayto so whenschool’s nightlife israging. insession, ness oriented. Butit’salsoauniversity town, (asthelocalscallit)isgenerally busi- ‘Bloem’ tourismin and SouthAfrica’sjudicialcapital, of lager. memory of ahardday’sdrive withicypints and more thanafew great pubstodrownthe to navigate, there are sophisticated restaurants makes andsafe itanidealplacetocrash.Easy at theintersection of afew major highways, location, smackinthemiddleof thecountry Bloemfontein’s Town, KimberleyorLesotho, Whether you’re comingfromJo’burg orCape % BLOEMFONTEIN is beginningtobreak apart. blackandwhite impenetrable barrierbetween inthesmallestruralvillages,even theonce- racial harmony,progress ishappening.Today, State hasalongwaytotravel ontheroadto live on.Whilethere’s noquestionthatFree anddreamsstark, of anAfrikanerArcadia thecoloursearly 1990s.Thelinebetween is it often theclockstoppedtickingin seems experience. Inthisstaunchly Afrikaansregion theFreethrough State canbeamind-opening you travel thesurface,ajourney todigbeneath Africa’s not-to-be-missed attractions.Butif any trumpcardswhenitcomestoSouth hold It’struethatFree doesn’t State houses. flowers painted Sotho languishbybrightly over bumpyroads;where giantfieldsof sun- and overalls drive rustybakkiesfullof sheep This isaplacewhere farmers infloppyhats FREE STATE Church Sq. Take theMeyerspark orMurrayfieldbusfrom Rd; thegardensare ontheleft-handside. intoCussonia for about 8km,thenturnright the country. are planted withindigenous florafromaround US$1.40/0.70; By car,headeastalongChurch St(Rte 104) As theprovincial of capital theFree State 051 /pop480,499 h 6am-6pm) cover 77hectares and

559 SOUTH AFRICA AFRICA SOUTH SOUTH AFRICA 560 0 100 km FREE STATE 0 60 miles

To Johannesburg (40km) Ermelo To Swaziland FREE STATE LEGEND Vereeniging Balfour (120km) Delareyville Hartbeesfontein Potchefstroom Vanderbijlpark GR Game Reserve R378 NP National Park Klerksdorp Sasolburg M P U M A L A N G A R507 NR Nature Reserve Migdol Parys Vaal Vryburg Standerton R380 Vredefort River Dome Villiers VierfonteinR Vaal 53 Vaal Dam Dam N O R T H - W E S T R504N Wolmaransstad Viljoenskroon Koppies NR 12 Frankfort Cornelia Hotazel R P R O V I N C E Heilbron Klip River 34 Koppies Dam Wilge Bloemhof Dam River Bothaville NR Rhenoster Rv Volksrust N R Vrede Kuruman R NR 30 14 47 Taung R506ὈὈὄὄVaal R Ὀ N Tweeling 59 PetrusR River Maokeng1 R Bloemhof R R Steyn26 KroonstadR N i 57 v R 76 34 3 e N 31 r R Memel 11 Sandveld Wesselsbron Reitz 34 Newcastle NR CornelisRiver River Hoopstad Odendaalsrus Mullers Wonderwerk Warden Welkom Pass Caves Sand River Arlington Molen River Harts Chelmsford

Ventersburg R Liebenbergs Dam Hertzogville Virginia iver Warrenton Collins Pass Dundee Danielskuil Sand Bohlakong Willem PretoriusR GR Bethlehem Glencoe Bultfontein 26 Senekal Harrismith Postmasburg ὄR385 ὄὈὈὈὄὄὄR Ὀ g Kestell Ὀ Paul Roux Van Reenen 59 r TheunissenN Snijmanshoek Sterkfontein N 1 N Visierskerf e Peak Dam Boshof R700 Clarens 12 Erfenis 5 b River Winburg Peak Phuthaditjhaba Dam e Salpeterkrans Ladysmith Koegelbeen Vaalbos R Rustler's t Golden Gate Soutpan Fouriesburg Caves Vaal NP 64 Dealesville Marquard Valley t Highlands NP Brandfort R i Kimberley 26 W Caledonspoort N F R E E S T A T E Ficksburg 3 R River Soetdoring Woodstock R 64 NR Clocolan Ficksburg Bridge Dam 74 Griekwastad R385 Excelsior (Griquatown) R357 Modder Peka Bridge Ritchie Petrusburg Estcourt Bloemfontein NThaba Tweespruit Greytown ὄO ὈὄJacobsdalὈὈὄR ὄ8'Nchu TeyateyanengὈὈὈὈὈK W A Z U L U- r 48 an Botshabelo Ladybrand N A T A L g e R705 MASERU Katse Mokhotlong R R702 Maria Maroka i R Maseru Bridge M a l u tDam i M o u n t a i n s v e Koffiefontein NP 26

r Kalkfontein Dam NR Hobhouse Dewetsdorp et A3 Ri Riv River Hopetown er Pietermaritzburg Prieska R706 Reddersburg Wepener N A2 L E S O T H O 1 Jagersfontein Van Rooyens Gate Fauresmith Edenburg River Drakensberg R N Welbedacht 48 6 R701Dam Mafeteng R726 N 12 ὄStrydenburg ὄὄ Sephapo's Gate ὈὈὈ Umzimkulu To Durban (80km) N Orange 10 R lonelyplanet.com Petrusville R717 26 Mohale's Hoek A4 Philippolis Smithfield Caledon N O R T H E R N Makhaleng Bridge C A P E Springfontein Zastron River R369 Bethulie Rouxville r Donkerpoort Tussen die Rive Umzinto ge Riviere Game n Carnarvon Britstown Gariep Dam ra Farm O Aasvoëlberg NR To Cape Town De Aar (Vulture Mountain) E A S T E R N C A P E (730km)ὄ Colesberg Aliwal North Book accommodationBook online at lonelyplanet.com ping centre, with fast connections and prices tomatch. andprices ping centre, withfastconnections shop- front; perhrUS$4)AflashplaceintheWaterfront parks and reserves inthearea. parks andreserves 264, Bloemfontein9300)Forinformationaboutnational and there are ticket countersforall major buscompanies.and there are ticket tahs) bytheTswanatahs) peoplewhoinhabited it, Originally calledManguang (Placeof Chee- History galleries. including oneof SouthAfrica’smoststriking lonelyplanet.com Afrikaners. and one still buriedinthe psyche of many in oneof thecamps.It’sapowerfulimage well tohiswife andbaby,whoare toperish theBritish,biddingalastfare-pony tofight off onhis picts abeardedAfrikaner,setting War, theNationalWomen’sMemorial de- camps duringthe1899–1902Anglo-Boer children whodiedinBritishconcentration Commemorating the26,000women and ANGLO-BOER WARMUSEUM NATIONAL WOMEN’S MEMORIAL& Monday). on mains forUS$2.80toUS$4.70(it’sclosed collection of worksbySouthAfricanartists. inanexquisite 1935mansion,holdsa housed donation; 9609; [email protected]; 16HarrySmithSt;admissionby leries, the One of SouthAfrica’smoststrikingartgal- OLIEWENHUIS ARTMUSEUM Sights &Activities centre Tourist Information centre & Tourism ofEnvironmentalAffairs Department State Free Connix Internet Information links tothecoast. wealthy citywithimposingbuildingsandrail president, hadgrownintoa Bloem however, the endof Johannes Brand’s25-yearterm as by thesoldiers By of SothokingMoshoeshoe. village danger inconstant of beingwipedout frontier in 1854.Atthetimeitwasastruggling ofcapital thenewlyminted Orange Free State oftain Flowers’. becamethe Bloemfontein today theAfrikaansnametranslates to‘Foun- fontein.co.za; 60Parkfontein.co.za; Rd; noon Sat) Pick up a walking-tour map. noon Sat)Pick upawalking-tour The museum’s caféhasbreakfastThe museum’s andlunch h ( % 8am-5pm Mon-Fri, 10am-5pmSat,1-5pmSun) 8am-5pm Mon-Fri, Oliewenhuis Art Museum Museum Oliewenhuis Art (Park here, Rd)Long-distance busesarrive 051-405 4062;fax051-4033778;POBox ( % FREESTATE ••Bloemfontein ( % 051-448 5648;LochLoganWater- h 051-405 8489;www.bloem 8am-4.15pm Mon-Fri; to 8am-4.15pm Mon-Fri; ( % 051-447 , Bermuda, IndiaandPortugal. Bermuda, upnotonlyinSouthAfrica,butalso set cluding photosfromconcentrationscamps .navalhillbackpackers.co.za; Delville St;dm/dUS$11/24; .navalhillbackpackers.co.za; basketball court.It’sa goodplaceforkids. park hasaswimming pool,atrampolineand Two kilometres outof town,thiswell-organised Petrusburg Rd;campsitesUS$9.50,s/dchaletsUS$24/30; Park Caravan Reyneke BUDGET Sleeping and acaféhere. 10am-5pm Sat,noon-5.30pmSun) 9609; 36AliwalSt;admissionUS$0.70; teresting displayatthis complete isthemost in- with soundeffects, A great re-creation of a19th-century street, NATIONAL MUSEUM body of water. onasmall a shopping mall.It’soutside,set Waterfront ismoreBloem’s than pleasant it’sabittacky, Town’s.Although on Cape Yes, hasaWaterfront, Bloemfontein modelled WATERFRONT bush romp. and hitthetrailforagoodold-fashioned Walking ispermitted, soget outof thecar Reserve hill, where you’llalsofindthe the war. horse, alandmarkforBritishcavalry during On theeastern sideof thehillisalarge white War.emplacements duringtheAnglo-Boer This wasthesite of theBritishnaval-gun NAVAL HILL at theInformationCentre. about US$27,withdiscountsforgroups.Book ally runforaslongyouwant.Theycost guang township.Tours are informalandusu- ( or theMysticBoer p563 ) inthevibrantMan- unlikely onatrip to theWaterfront tomeet simple mealatalocaldive withpeopleyou’re oreata You canhangoutintheshebeens MANGUANG Sun) US$0.70; War Museum Naval Hill Backpackers Naval Hill There are goodviewsfromthetopof the , which hassomeinteresting displays,in- The memorialisinfrontof the

h ( % 8am-4.30pm Mon-Fri, 10am-5pmSat,2-5pm 8am-4.30pm Mon-Fri, 051-405 8124;admissionfree;

( % 051-447 3447;MonumentRd;admission (

% 051-523 3888;fax3887;

( . There isalsoashop % museum 051-430 7266; www h 8am-5pm Mon-Fri, 8am-5pm Mon-Fri, Franklin Game Franklin Game

h ( % Anglo-Boer Anglo-Boer 8am-5pm) 051-447 561 s

.

) SOUTH AFRICA AFRICA SOUTH ὈὈὈ ὈὈὈ ὈὈὈ Ὀ Ὀ 48 R SOUTH AFRICA 562 Kimberley (160km) To ProteaHotel N1 (4km); Bloemfontein (2km); N1 viaHaldonRd(4km) Caravan Park(2km); To Reyneke 4 6 1 3 2 5 BLOEMFONTEIN

Parfitt Ave TRANSPORT DRINKING EATING SLEEPING SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES INFORMATION STA Travel...... Minibus TaxiStand...... D6 Interstate Office...... (see20) Central Park(BusestoThaba'Nchu).. Bus Station...... Bus InformationOffice...... NettletonWorkshop RoadsideCafé...... Oolong Lounge...... Mystic Boer...... Cool Runnings...... Seven onKellner...... Jazz TimeCafé...... (see5) Fishpaste...... Barba's Café...... Piccolo B&B...... Naval HillBackpackers...... Kloof Lodge...... Hobbit BoutiqueHotel...... Ansu Guesthouse...... Waterfront...... Oliewenhuis ArtMuseum...... National Museum...... Franklin GameReserve...... Tourist Centre...... (see1) Information Centre...... Connix Internet...... (see5) FREE STATE ••Bloemfontein Captain Proctor General Dan Pienaar Ave ὈὈ ὈὈ

Faure Ave Rd Park AC Kings Park

Enrich St Mimosa Att Horak Ave Horak Att Mall Westdene St David Jan Van Riebeeck Willows

22

Victoria Rd Victoria

Henry St Henry Eduard Rd Eduard

Kingsway 3rd Ave

Thomson Kellner St Kellner

Betoger Ave St Reitz President Van Zastron St Zastron der Stel

Harris St 1

19 St Reid Nelson Mandela Ave Mandela Nelson To Jagersfontein 11 M Ella St 15 Ὀ ὈὈὈ ὈὈὈὈὈ ὈὈ ὈὈ ὈὈ ὈὈ

(126km) 17

President Steyn Ave Steyn President

L

12

o 22 21 20 19 18 17 16 15 14 13 12 11 10

c 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1

h 14

L

o 2nd Ave (Tweedelaan) g a

n 16 A4 D6 B6 D5 B4 B4 B4 B5 C5 B4 B4 C1 D4 C5 B4 D1 B5 C3 C5 D4 A6 11

Connor

Ave Van Pienaar B Brebner Rd Brebner 5 N

8 General Hertzog N 8 R706

Selbourne St Selbourne Reiger St General St Andrew St Andrew St

7 President Rhodes President

President Boshof St Elizabeth Oranjesig

St Schoor Van

Erstelaan (1st Ave)

Albrecht Kom Ὀ Brill ὈὈὈ ὈὈὈ ὈὈὈ m

andant

Harry Smith St Smith Harry Ave

Barnes Rd Barnes Senekal Happy Valley Markgraaff St Park City Hall To NationalWomen's Memorial (2km); Anglo-Boer War Museum (2km) Albrecht Signal

President Brand St Hill

13 Prophet St

Green Kloof Collins

Goddard St Goddard

Hoffman Eerste 10 Nelson Mandela Ave Mandela Nelson

City

Maitland St Maitland Tweede

Sq Winter St Arboretum Paul Roux St Ὀ Ὀ ὈὈ Ὀ ὈὈ

8

Charles St Charles

Dickie Clark St St Morgan Derde

3 St Henry Zastron St Zastron

Aliwal St Vierde

St Georges St Georges St Douglas St Douglas Gordon Grants

Ramblers Harry Selbourne St Selbourne Ground

Church St Cricket

Hill Queens Fontein St Fontein Fort

4

Alexandra Ave Alexandra Smith St Smith 0.3miles 500m 0 0 Twin-Towered

Manguang West Burger St Ave Union R700 Church 18

(4km) Cricket St Cricket To

20 Short St Short

Fraser St Fairview

Waverley Aliwal St Rd Waverley Plaza

Awkes St Awkes Delville St

Peet St Peet Union Ave

Fichardt 9 Harvey Rd Harvey

East Burger St lonelyplanet.com Louis Botha St 21 National Park(60km); Naval Thaba 'Nchu(60km); D Andries Pretorius St Hill Botshabelo (40km);

Hanger St To Airport(10km); Berg St Maseru (120km) 6

Maria Moroka Whites Rd Mannion Ave Alexandra 2 Station 13 M

St Train Milner St N 8 30 M a night. There’sa night. acosybarandlounge anda place isnothingfancy,butperfectly finefor families orsmallgroups,Piccolo’soffers an an interesting menufeaturing zippy Asian-inspired rooms. Youcanorderdrinks Collection, thisupmarket placehasall-white Kellner St;s/dUS$40/54; Kellner guidebooks are soifthe published,however, party. Placescanswitch owners faster than sion thatguestswere intrudingonaprivate of management givingthedistinctimpres- we’ve hadnumerousreports fromtravellers with funkyindustrialdécor. Unfortunately, Book accommodationBook online at lonelyplanet.com pi lonelyplanet.com a variety of fillings(such asCajun chicken, Yemeni-style layered wrappedaround dough US$2.80-5; Jazz Time Café Eating fireplace. gourmet restaurant barwitha andcocktail summer orcheck outtheyear-round on-site on theterrace bythelong,skinnypoolin US$87/130; Ave, 202NelsonMandela [email protected]; Brandweg;s/d great views fromtheoutdoorpatio. alike. Thebedroomsare cottage-style and awards attractingromanticsanddignitaries old-world Hobbitisthewinnerof numerous here,Tolkien societythatmeets thecharming, pais 19Presidentbit.co.za; SteynAve; s/dwithbreakfast US$80/108; same. huge, boastscoolerfurniture andcoststhe just nextdoor. Ask fortheluxuryroom–it’s very onKellner goodrestaurant, Seven ( right ), with allsortsof birds. few otherroomyoptions.Thegardenisfilled fouranda African-themed unitthatcansleep 4 ProphetSt;rfromUS$34; the pool. leafy gardenarea where there’s agazeboby done upinearthycolours andopenontoa three modernroomshere are andairy, light house.com; 80WaverleyRd;s/dUS$30/35; Ansu Guesthouse MIDRANGE &TOPEND backpacker potential. personnel change kickass thishasserious Protea Hotel Bloemfontein Hotel Protea Piccolo B&B Hobbit BoutiqueHotel Kloof Lodge ) Thisisanüber-cool lookinghostel h pis lunch &dinner) )

Don’tbescared off bythelocal

( ( % ( % %

FREESTATE ••Bloemfontein ( % 051-436 1483; [email protected]; 051-436 1483;[email protected]; 051-447 7603; [email protected]; 7 051-447 7603;[email protected]; 051-430 5727; Waterfront; mains 051-430 5727;Waterfront; ) Part of the Protea Luxury pan 051-436 4654;www.ansuguest p

( % Thishipeatery has ) A perfect choice for 051-447 0663;www.hob

) ( % This rambling 051-444 4321; ps zivas The ) – Ave St) &President Reitz to sinka few beers. as abitof abikers’ hangout,it’sagood place andareputation loud music,abig-screen TV karaoke onSunday. mostly rockandblues–atweekends and this CoolRunningshasDJsandlive bands– chain of bar-restaurants, Caribbean-themed dela Ave; admissionUS$7-10) black leatherchairs andspacefordancing. The super-mod interior isslickandshiny with hip lounge attractsatrendy youngcrowd. h and burgers provide thefuel. rock and(sometimes)hip-hopoutfits.Pizza month, plusthere are regular gigs byunsigned onthewalls. One ‘big’bandplaysper Boers with psychedelic pictures of long-bearded vides aneccentrictwisttoAfrikanerculture, most popularpubandlive musicvenue pro- Waterfront. and compete forthenightlife scenewiththe dela Ave, bustlewithrevellers intheevening Kellner StandNelsonMan- St,andZastron to live music.Thecorners of 2ndAve and good range of placestodrink,partyandlisten As auniversity hasa town,Bloemfontein & Entertainment Drinking bubbly picked fromtheextensive winelist. Afterwards, chill onthepatiowithabottleof andIndianinspiredMiddle Eastern delights. thing fromwood-fired pizzastodelicious US$7-8; Wednesday. also hasalarge listandlive cocktail musicon ing chicken souvlaki(US$5),are delicious.It hidden secrets. TheGreek specialities,includ- so:it’soneof by localsandrightly Bloem’s fast, lunch&dinnerMon-Sat) extremely reasonable. ern restaurant. Thebarisbuzzyandtheprices rolls orrolledporkfilletatthistrendy, mod- with green-bean prawn Vietnamese salad, fromblackenedsalmon Choose Canadian mains US$4-5; are andjazzrecitals cocktails of anevening. feta andavocado), foldedandtoasted. There Cool Runnings Oolong Lounge Mystic Boer onKellner Seven Barba’s Café Fishpaste Workshop Roadside Café Tue-Sat) h Bloem’s latest hotspot,thisultra Bloem’s lunch &dinner) ( % h

( %

( % 051-430 2662;31President SteynAve; lunch & dinner Mon-Fri, dinnerSat) lunch &dinnerMon-Fri, ( 051-430 2206; 84 Kellner St) 051-430 2206;84Kellner % (

051-430 2542;162ndAve; ( Alarge, raucouspubwith % % 051-430 7364;163NelsonMan- Barba’s isrecommended Barba’s This place does every- Thisplacedoes 051-447 7928; 7 Kellner St;mains 051-447 7928;7Kellner 051-448 7244;16A2ndAve; Part of anationwide

( % 051-447 2761;cnr2nd

Bloem’s Bloem’s h

break- 563 SOUTH AFRICA AFRICA SOUTH SOUTH AFRICA lines Mimosa Mall) Mimosa (US$31, 10hours). Town (US$48,12hours) andPortElizabeth hours), Pretoria hours), Cape (US$27,seven weekly via Bloemfontein between Jo’burg between viaBloemfontein weekly (US$36/25/15). The economy classUS$52/36/21) andDurban Bloem Town(1st/2nd/ fontein Cape between net.co.za) The TRAIN least onebusdaily,buttimesvary. Jo’burg (US$11,sixhours). There’s usuallyat hours), Kimberley(US$7,fourhours) and forMaseru,train station (US$6,three Lesotho leaveMost minibustaxis fromopposite the MINIBUS TAXI to Friday. three hours) at6.10amand2.10pmMonday Georges SttoMaseru (US$4.70, inLesotho Parkfrom theCentral shopping centre inSt Bookbothatthetouristcentre.tables. ers fordrinks,foodandagameonthecasino day. Theticket priceof US$7includesvouch- Thaba ’Nchu dailyexceptTuesdayandThurs- runbythehotelsalso ashuttle in bustoBloem Thaba ’Nchu hour(US$1.40). There’s every from theinformationcentre to inBloem .za) (US$43, 10hours). Town Knysna (US$36,12hours) andCape hours), London(US$24,seven hours), East five hours), PortElizabeth(US$27,nine (US$20, ninehours), Jo’burg/Pretoria (US$20, .translux.co.za) centre inPark Rd. leave buses Long-distance fromthetourist BUS destinations. and Jo’burg (US$135)amongmanyother Town(US$160) withCape nect Bloemfontein airport, exceptprivate taxi. centre andthere isnotransportto/fromthe airportis10kmfromthecity Bloemfontein AIR &Away There Getting 564 A buscalled Greyhound Big SkyBuses STA Travel SAAirlink runs daily buses toDurban(US$31,9½ runsdailybuses

Shosholoza Meyl Shosholoza ( % FREE STATE Free State ••Northern Trans Oranje 011 3447200;www.flynationwide.co.za) canorganise flights.

( %

runs daily buses toDurban runsdailybuses (

% ( % 051-433 3225)

Interstate (www.bigskycoaches.co.za) 051-444 6062; [email protected]; 051-444 6062;[email protected]; 051-447 1558;www.greyhound.co Translux

( % Algoa travels via weekly 0860 008888;www.spoor

( % and (

% runsfive times 051-448 4951) 051-408 4888;www Nationwide Air- operate con- runs national monument. You can see the national monument.Youcansee opposite thepretty magistrate’s building,isa 4951) office St Georges St.There isalsoa ontheN1,isatypicallarge,Kroonstad, % Kroonstad Free State. not much toattracttravellers tothenorthern yearning tospendafew daysonafarm,there’s Unless you’re really interested inminingor more thanathirdof thecountry’soutput. diately. NowtheFree State goldfieldsproduce imme- inApril1938andarushstarted State Gold wasdiscovered inthispartof theFree FREESTATENORTHERN information isthe Thebestplaceforschedulesthe evening. and thatfinishearlyin vides infrequent services public-busBloem’s system, Interstate, pro- Around Getting Jo’burg (1st/2nd/economyUS$19/14/12). and Bloemfontein three between timesweekly (US$28/20/11). The Londoneconomy US$19/14/7)andEast fontein Jo’burg ontherunbetween (1st/2nd/ Amatola hours) andPortElizabeth(US$32/22/13).The (1st/2nd/economy US$19/14/7,about seven 10 hours) andPaarl (US$32,14 hours). All London (US$30, (US$20, four hours), East toJo’burg/PretoriaGreyhound services (US$8). faux-Greek Dinner canbearranged statues. from theroomstolarge gardenscattered with US$38/47) ( River, ispopularwithanglers. northeast of ontheRhenoster Kroonstad ( Blood River vow. onaguncarriageis standing makingthe Moederkerk statue Reserve. for exploringnearbyKoppiesDamNature rural Free townandmakes State agoodbase % % There are dailyTranslux,Intercape and It’s easytofindthe The 4000-hectare The 056 /pop106,064 056-72 2521; 056-212 8280;[email protected]; s/dwithbreakfast in the Central Park intheCentral shopping centre in

(Hoffman Sq) inthegroundsof theimpressive old market building old market intown.Theclassicalthemeextends runsfive viaBloem- timesweekly

(Mother Church;CrossSt) h . 7am-9pm) Interstate office Interstate Koppies Dam Nature Reserve Koppies DamNature Diamond Express , located about70km

(cnr Mark & Murray Sts) &Murray (cnr Mark Arcadia Guesthouse lonelyplanet.com . Sarel Celliers bus information

( % Celliers Celliers 051-448 runs NG ,

the area here. don’tmiss spendingasunset not boastanyof theBigFive, butifyou’re in 255 0012;fax0022;admissionpervehicleUS$8) .sanparks.org) Book accommodationBook online at lonelyplanet.com Bumped upagainstthewildandrugged HIGHLANDS EASTERN Ultra City. attheShell stopoutonthehighway buses lonelyplanet.com a day. foothills, rangingfrom45 minutes tohalf booked through is limited to18peopleatatimeandmustbe Dam. Langtoon passes Glen Reenen the Malutis Thereturn trailto can beseen. the park,fromwhere Mont-aux-Sourcesand of pointin (2732m),thehighest Generaalskop the trackclimbsuptoaviewpointon theside day great thepark.Onsecond way tosee (US$9.50 perperson) isatwo-daytrek anda circular,33kmtrailThis well-maintained, Trail Rhebok Hiking SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES park reception. snaps are possible. Buyentrypermitsatthe are mild butrainfallsatthistimeandcold frost andsnow;summers (January toMarch) August) intheparkcanbevery cold,with vulture.bearded andCape to Winters (June numerous birdspecies,includingtherare boks, Burchell’s zebras,jackals,baboons and including blesboks,elands,oribis,grey rhe- end of anotherperfect Africanday. bottle of goodSouthAfricanred andtoastthe in themiddleof thegrasslands.Pullouta Village. You’llnowbeoff themainroadand Cultural and take theturn-off fortheBasatho a few moments,thenheadoutintotheopen and rustingoldcars –butonlystophere for pretty tempting –loadsof blazingsandstone The sceneryfromthewestern approach is The NationalPark Highlands Golden Gate destination, trendy littleClarens. country retreats andSouthAfrica’snewestart ing goldenfields,hippyhideaways,fabulous monolithssandstone toweringabove undulat- and wellworthexploring.Theregion boasts is themostbeautifulportionof theFree State border,this thatguardLesotho’s mountains There are alsoshorter hikingtrails inthe Hikers tobereasonably need fit.Thetrail There are plentyof animalsinthepark, Golden Gate Highlands NationalPark Highlands Golden Gate . FREESTATE ••EasternHighlands SAN Parks

( % 012-428 9111;www ( might might % 058- essentially an open-air museum, peopledby anopen-airmuseum, essentially shop forallthingsoutdoors. Popular excur- tours US$2.80; 93 Van St;rperperson US$14) Reenan Inn Clarens SLEEPING hours). three hours) andhorse riding (US$24,two sions includewhite-water rafting(US$51, St; .infoclarens.com; Main the perfect bucoliccountry retreat. ticated artgalleriesandquietshady streets is this townof whitewashed buildings,sophis- fields andthemagnificentMaluti Mountains, limestone rocks,hunter-green hills,spun-gold againstabackdropof craggy you depart.Set aboutlongafter talking tle thenfindyourself placesyoustumbleuponexpectinglit- those The jewelof theFree State, Clarens isoneof % Clarens Harrismith onRte 74andthenRte 712. with yourownvehicle youcanapproach from thepark.Alternatively, through and goright Harrismith, viaClarens andPhuthaditjhaba, and Bethlehem runbetween Minibus taxis THERE&AWAYGETTING race viewsandasnugcoffee shop. boastingwonderful ter-red cliffs, sandstone ‘proper’ hotel isfabulously located upagainst lets US$63,buffet dinnerUS$11; s/daroundUS$48/67,dcha- .proteahotels.com/goldengate; GoldenGate Hotel Protea chalets andcampsites bytheriver. Africans onholiday,withwell-maintained camp sitesUS$13,dchaletsUS$51) Camp Rest Glen Reenen SLEEPING but bringyourownfood. rondavels (US$54), two-person self-catering plants, andarock-artsite. in Youcanstay per person) explores medicinalandother afew Sothodishes. serving door restaurant, openforlunch anddinner, Sotho life. There’s acurioshop andanout- actors depictingvariousaspectsof traditional Village Cultural Within theparkyou’llfindsmall Basotho Cultural Village Mountain Odyssey Tourism Mountain OdysseyTourism A two-hourguidedhikingtrail(US$3.40 058

( h %

( 8am-4.30pm Mon-Fri, to5pmSat&Sun) 8am-4.30pm Mon-Fri, % 058-256 1119; [email protected]; 058-256 1119; [email protected]; 058-721 0300;[email protected]; h

( % 8am-6pm) ( i % Popular withSouth ( 011-428 9111;2-person % Run by the same Runbythe same ) 058-255 1000; The park’sonly 058-256 1173;www isaone-stop Basotho

www 565

, SOUTH AFRICA AFRICA SOUTH SOUTH AFRICA mental area’mental meaning you’llfindpeoplein try’s originalhippyhangout,isan ‘experi- .rustlers.co.za; dmUS$9,rfromUS$34; from drumming topermaculture are taught. or private cottages. Avarietyof workshops, on-site restaurant anddigsineitherdorms various altered There’s states. mental an Fouriesburgbetween andFicksburg. side. Thisremote valleyislocated offRte 26 scattered amidthisrough-and-ready country- down browndustybywaystorandom oases of nowhere, ditch thepavement andhead To journeyintothewildlybeautifulheart % Valley Rustler’s a varietyof options. sleeping It’sagreatMountains. rusticretreat, offering outcropping withfineviewsover theMaluti location againstacamel-shaped sandstone person US$25,chaletsfromUS$52) Farm border, 800m fromtheLesotho Steyn’s house. stone buildings hem. There are anumber of fineold Free after State theBritishoccupiedBethle- of Warandwaspronouncedthecapital Boer inFree State.the highest border posttoLesotho. Twonearbypeaksare spot just12kmnorthof the Caledonspoort Fouriesburgtains, occupiesamagnificent Entirely moun- surroundedbywild,craggy % Fouriesburg quencies andcostsweren’t exactlyclear. and Harrismith fromClarens fre- –although There are afew toBethlehem minibus taxis THERE&AWAYGETTING of late afternoon tea. can enjoyaheartymorningbreakfast oracup fabulous viewsfromtheterrace, where you luxuriously appointed bedrooms.There are fers buckets of intimate countrycharm and of- guesthouse This impeccablymaintained rperpersonwithbreakfastintercom.co.za; fromUS$30) option. Tourism,thisisthetown’sbestbudgetsey friendly folksthatoperateOdys- Mountain 566 Fouriesburg intheAnglo- wasastronghold Guesthouse Clarens Lake About 11kmoutsideFouriesburg, andjust Rustler’s Valley Retreat 051 058

( % NORTH-WEST PROVINCE PROVINCE NORTH-WEST 058-223 0368;www.camelroc.co.za; dmUS$8,rper inthetownincludingPresident (

% ( sits in a spectacular sits inaspectacular % 058-256 1436;weyer@ 051-933 3939;www s Camelroc Guest Camelroc ) , thecoun- sand- .cherryfestival.co.za) with fineantiquesandmodernartwork.Din- building. The12guestroomsare decked out i [email protected]; 21BloemSt;rperpersonUS$34; office onthemainroad. Caltex office around thedistrict;get amapfromthe in bloom.The thetreesand Octoberare thebesttimestosee cherry industry.There’s a with whipped-cream dollopsof snow. arelar inwinter whenthemountains topped don River, Ficksburg isparticularlyspectacu- onthebanksof Mountains theCale- Maluti Nestled againstthepurplemajesty of the % Ficksburg room andgreat viewsof thevalley. terrific roundswimmingpool,Zulusteam cottages, a sandstone farm withcomfortable completely opposite experience. It’saworking US$34; Lodge the otherdirection, isthe Ficksburg. The retreat pick-ups(US$2.80)from does afield, Madikwe Game Reserve isoneofafield, Madikwe Game Reserve Park Further isourpick foraquicksafari. into thewild.Nearby Pilanesberg National all colours (along withplentyof tourists). cultural placepopularwithSouthAfricans of apartheid-era’s mostfamousretreat isamulti- sive for thewhite sanctuary elite, todaythe lent andkitschy themeparks.Onceanexclu- casino resorts are SouthAfrica’s mostopu- addictsto gamblers.safari something foranyone–frommusiclovers to country’s best-kept secrets, theregion offers escaping big-cityclutter. Hometosomeof the Province provides theperfect antidote for just twohours fromJo’burg, theNorth-West With someof itsmostrevered attractions PROVINCE NORTH-WEST with awell-stocked winecellar. ner canbearranged, andthere’s acosypub The Ficksburg isthecentre of theFree State’s area,In thesame justafew kilometres in When youtire of artificial beaches, head The Disney-esqueSunCityandLost City ) 051 isinacharming, Victoriansandstone

( ( is % % Bella RosaGuesthouse 051-933 2130; 051-933 2828; www.franshoek.co.za; rperperson 051-933 2828;www.franshoek.co.za; ) , perfect ifyou’re lookingfora inNovember butSeptember Cherry Trail h 9am-4.30pm Mon-Fri) isatouristroute Cherry Festival Franshoek Mountain

lonelyplanet.com ( % 051-933 2623; inthe tourist tourist (www

ὄ ὄὄὄ 31 R

lonelyplanet.com than Cape Town.Inthe endthepeace-lovingthan Cape missionaries first visited thecity,itwasbigger ellery withChina. By1820, whenEuropean theytradedcopper andironjew- so developed The peoplewholived here hadaneconomy about 30kmnorthof modern-dayZeerust. tion centred onthe‘lostcity’of Kaditshwene, complex andsophisticated Iron-Age civilisa- illegal inSouthAfricaitself. ters withprostitutes, which wouldhave been and pleasure resorts forinterracial encoun- South Africanmen,whovisited itscasinos ofcame famousfortheexcesses thewhite The nominallyindependenthomelandbe- offor thousands ‘relocated’ Tswana people. (often shortened to‘Bop’),dumpingground apartheid homelandof Bophuthatswana of thearea oncecovered bythefragmented The North-WestProvince takes inmuch HISTORY visitors. farfewer animals,itsees ing withthesame toJo’burgit’s closer thanKruger, andteem- South Africa’sbestopensecrets. Even though (646km) Springbok (147km); To Upington River Kuruman Makopong Postmasburg NORTH-WEST PROVINCE NR MountainReserve NP MR GR LEGEND ὄ ὄ ὄ ὄ Rest McCarthy's The North-WestProvince wasthesite of a Severn R375

Nature Reserve National Park Game Reserve Kuruman River Kuruman Hotazel Sishen Kuruman 31 R Werda Terra Firma NORTH-WEST PROVINCE ••History PROVINCE NORTH-WEST 14 N Danielskuil Caves Wonderwerk Boshoek Ganyesa R378 B OTSWAN N ORTH-WES Lykso P ROVINCE Mabule Reivilo 47 To Kimberley R Vryburg (72km) Piet Plessis A2 Harts

Jwaneng

Stella

River M

Setlagole o

l

o

Taung p ὄ ὄὄὄ ὄ ὄ o Schweizer-

Warrenton

Reneke Rive 34

R

Kanye Mmabatho R506 r R377 Airport Vaal Migdol Christiana Bloemhof 49 R 12 N Lobatse GABORONE Bloemhof Ramotswa Mafikeng Dam Ramatlabama 8am-1pm Sat) ( the well-stocked appealing). travellers willfind this optionparticularly Park elsewhere (budget andwantingtostay ing nearbySunCityorPilanesberg National than itmakes ifyou’re ahandybase visit- There’s noparticularreason tovisit,other ing townabout115kmnorthwestof Jo’burg. Rustenburg isalarge andprosperousmin- Sitting attheedge of theMagaliesberg Range, % RUSTENBURG platinum minesnearRustenburg. herestill important andthere are extensive to thefieldsaroundLichtenburg. Miningis in the1870s,resulting inanenormousrush fell intoruins. was sacked byahordeof 40,000peopleand Zulu incursions intotheFree State. Thecity for theaggression of theSotho,displacedby ofinhabitants Kaditshwene proved nomatch Ottosdal Mmabatho % Lichtenburg Zeerust Skilpadshek Diamonds were discovered intheprovince On thewayinto Rustenburg, you’llfind 014 /pop123,000 014-597 0904; Main Rd; 014-597 0904; Main Madikwe ὈὈ Ὀ GR Wolmaransstad Tlokweng Makwassie 59 R

River 49 Bakerville R Sand Odendaalsrus M Kopfontein Nietverdiend Klerksdorp R503 a r i

. g Orkney Ventersdorp o R 52 ive

R r

Swartruggens River Potchefstroom Pilanesberg 53 Bothaville Kgaswane R 30 R Sun City Welkom Rustenburg NP 34 Stilfontein R 14 tourist information centre tourist N MR N 1 Mogwase Ὀ Ὀ Ὀ R565 0 0 30 76 12 R R N 59 h R 24 Magaliesberg R N 4 R53 26 Kroonstad R

Range Assen 7.30am-5pm Mon-Fri, 7.30am-5pm Mon-Fri, N 1 Thabazimbi S TAE Kosmos F RE Brits Klipvoor Dam Borakalalo JOHANNESBURG G AUTEN Hartbeespoort Bohlakong NP Sasolburg Dam Warmbad Hartbeespoort Vereeniging Nylstroom Temba PRETORIA Vaal Dam Ὀ 60 miles 100 km 57 Reitz R 567 N 1 N 3

34

R SOUTH AFRICA AFRICA SOUTH SOUTH AFRICA rooms are comfyandwellappointed. rates includebreakfast anddinnerthe isourtopchoice intownconsidering house US$2.80-5; .net; s/dUS$20/41) 12km outside town off Rte 24. Set innatural 12km outsidetownoffRte 24.Set US$8) Sol Kerzer, Disneylandcollideswithancient 568 hostel, SunCityisa pretty good bargain. The helping topayover 3500salaries. that theyarethemselves withthethought weekends. canalsoconsole Losers atthetables especially Asian peoplewhoflockhere at best features isthe mixof black,white and daysoneofwealthy whites, these SunCity’s pretty damnfun. grotesquely gaudy,yetavisithere canalsobe tion thisgambling-centricresort isalmost of clinkingslotmachines, there’s noques- andhundredsing volcanoes upon hundreds monkeys, acres of artificialbeaches, explod- Vegas. of Filledwithgildedstatues lions and Egypt inademented attempt tolooklike SunCity Welcome toSinCity,SouthAfricanstyle. At % SUN CITY (about US$0.70). where youcancatch intotown aminibustaxi the wana (US$20,five hours). Thebusstopsat toria (US$15,fourhours) andGaborone,Bots- in Rustenburg Pre- dailyonitsrunbetween Intercape &Away There Getting and crocodileragout(US$4.70). as smoked (US$5.50), warthogandsauerkraut An Austrianrestaurant offering such delights 99 Leyds St;s/dwithhalfboardUS$40/74) African wildlife. owner (anartist)knowsalotaboutSouth bush, it’satranquilB&Bandthefriendly hearty breakfast. a simple buttidyrooms;theowners serve Joan’s isagoodold-fashioned B&Boffering Ave,61 Wildevy ProteaPark; s/dwithbreakfast US$20/34) Joan’s B&B Sleeping &Eating Karl’s Bauernstube Karl’s Traveller’s Inn Traveller’s Started asanapartheid-erahavenStarted for If you’re tired of justhanging aroundthe Bushwillows B&B 014 BP petrolstation , thelegendary creation of entrepreneur NORTH-WEST PROVINCE ••SunCity PROVINCE NORTH-WEST

( h %

( %

lunch & dinner Tue-Fri, dinnerSat,lunchSun) lunch &dinnerTue-Fri, ( 014-557 1000; www.suncity.co.za; admission 014-557 1000;www.suncity.co.za; % 0861 287287;www.intercape.co.za) Thisisalovely optionabout (

014-533 3086;[email protected]; %

(

% 014-592 7658; [email protected]; 014-592 7658;[email protected]; (cnr Van Staden&SmitSts)

( % 014-537 2333;wjmcgill@lantic 014-537 2128; Rte 24;mains 014-537 2128;Rte Thisguest- , from stops on thepremises, aswell asanumberof res- lively of the hotels, withgamblingfacilities cheapest optioninthecomplex,islaid- Country Club lucky –andwealthyguests. but towhich accessisprohibited toallbutits City food courts,shopsandmovie theatres. painted onthedomeceiling,italsohouses Done upinajunglethemewithanimalmurals smoking casinosinthe side. It’scheesy, but fun. bridge shakes whiledryicepours outof either earthquakes fromahiddenmike, andthe and aboutlostcivilisations some nonsense rides. Every hourorsoavoiceboomsout park ous water slides andotheramusement wave-making machine, beach, asandy numer- of life-sized fake elephants,and basicallyconsists City The bestpartof SunCityisundeniably Sights &Activities luxurious hotels. this placealsoboastsoneof theworld’smost ifyou’veOf course gotthecashtosplashout, various restaurants, shopsorslotmachines. to aboutUS$4),which canbespentatthe and you’llalsobegiven 30‘Sunbucks’(equal admission fee covers allthemainattractions, conveniences. are modernwithallthe typical upmarket back andaimedatfamilygroups. Rooms 7800; www.suninternational.com) or through complex adaytriponly. the townof Rustenburg ( left ) andmakingthe ing atPilanesberg NationalPark ( opposite ) or you have yourowntransport),considerstay- If theSunCityhotels are tooexpensive (and Sleeping (US$32) andwater-skiing (US$32). (US$50),jetskiing facilities forparasailing the shores of alarge artificiallake, which has US$67 (US$47forhotel guests). Sun CityCabanas All thefollowinghotels canbebooked holesatthesuperb Eighteen smokingandnon- You’ll findseparate In theheartof LostCityis Sun CityHotel Near themainentranceis Valley oftheWaves Sun International centralreservations Sun International , which isentered over abridge flanked by , ahotel that couldinspire hallucinations, Sun City Book accommodationBook online at lonelyplanet.com orthe

(r fromUS$280;

( %

(r fromUS$160; 014-557 1000;www.suncity.co.za) , apoolwithlarge-scale Lost CityGolfCourse . entertainment centre entertainment as lonelyplanet.com Palace oftheLost Waterworld as ) Gary Player Gary Themost ( %

011-780 ) cost The , on Lost

. as palatial. plex, buttheroomsare stilleasilydescribed City asthemostluxurioushotel inthecom- displacedbythePalacehas been of theLost fourth-largest nationalparkinSouthAfrica, Sun City.Inreality, atover 500sqkm it’sthe it’snearlyontopofnuated zoo justbecause centre. andanentertainment anightclub taurants, lonelyplanet.com more than25kmfrom oneendof theparkto good-value accommodation. Sinceit is no gravel roads,hidesandpicnicspots, some of birds. too. Theregion alsohasadiverse population here early 2000,Africanwilddogscanbe seen zebras andawidevarietyof antelopes. Since hippos,buffalos, rhinos, elephants,giraffes, also findjackals,hyenas,white andblack the lionsandleopardscheetahs, you’ll of anextinct1200-million-year-old volcano. area around Mankwe which Lake, isthecentre with impressive scenery,particularlyinthe h ( Don’t befooledintothinkingthis PILANESBERG NATIONAL PARK ontheRte 565. and Boshoek routemost straightforward isviaRustenburg your hotel topickyouup. tohireairport, you’llneed acarorarrange for Town (US$140).Fromthe fromCape a week fromJo’burga week (US$70)andthree times 1111; www.saairlink.co.za) of theSunCitycomplex. Tiny Pilanesberg Airportisabout9kmeast &Away There Getting just aboutget youaburger andasoft drink. entertainment centre. Your30Sunbuckswill There are plentyof fast-food jointsinthe All thehotels have of aselection restaurants. Eating and water-filled gardens. botanical compared withtheawesomepublicspaces almostunimaginative ceilings buttheyseem coloured carpetsandduvets andhand-painted of luxury.Theroomsare doneupwithbold- over-the-top propertyredefines thefantasy % There isanexcellent100km networkof From Jo’burg it’satwo-hourdrive. The Palace oftheLostCity All thebigcatsare here, andalongwith Cascades dawn-dusk) 014-555 5356;adult/childUS$2.80/1.40,pervehicleUS$2;

(r fromUS$322; issomekindof superan- tacky NORTH-WEST PROVINCE ••Pilanesberg PROVINCE NationalPark NORTH-WEST operates flights sixtimes operates flights (r fromUS$470;

as SAAirlink ) The Cascades The Cascades as national park

( % 011-978 This )

of bushveld, savanna grasslandandriverine more than10,000 animalsinto the area. All brought operation, calledOperation Phoenix, people. Amassive translocation seven-year ing amore environment forlocal sustainable job-creation scheme andawayof provid- to protect theendangered wildlife, butasa in1991,notonly wasestablished The reserve forest ontheedge of theKalahari Desert. Madikwe One of thelargest inSouth Africa, reserves Reserve Game Madikwe and Jo’burg). and Rte 510 ifyou’re comingfromPretoria Manyane Gate tothenortheast(viaRte 556 Gate tothewest(viaRteBakubung 556)or from thedirection of SunCityusing either There are fourgates intoPilanesberg. Enter THERE&AWAYGETTING Tshukudu isthemostexclusive. .co.za) by Lodge breakfast &dinnerUS$216/297; US$216/297; breakfast. includeabuffet Rates come withfullbaths andcovered porches. tents atthis site northwestof Manyayne gate with breakfast US$123/132; tentUS$118,d/trchalet campsitesUS$25,dsafari pard.co.za; a heartybreakfast buffet. include a shopanddecentrestaurant. Rates chalets facilities,including withhigh-quality Near Manyane Gate, thiscomplexhasposh tent US$47,d/trchaletwithbreakfast fromUS$98/152; campsitesUS$19,2-personsafari www.goldenleopard.co.za; Park Complex&Caravan Manyane Sleeping &Eating atUS$160perperson.Sun City,starting runs two-dayPilanesberg thatalsovisit safaris, St, Pretoria) ( transport tovisitthepark. from Jo’burg orPretoria orhave yourown Lookout. Lenong you misstheviewpointsover thecrater from wide varietyof animals.Onnoaccountshould % ferent a environmentsintheparkandtosee the other,itiseasytocover therange of dif- Kwa Maritane Lodge Kwa Maritane Complex Bakgatla tojoinanorganised tour You’ll eitherneed Legacy hotels Legacy hotels 083-302 1976; www.footprintsinafrica.com; 425Farenden083-302 1976;www.footprintsinafrica.com; , are the park’s three mainluxuryoptions; (s/d withfullboardUS$472/675;

( based atthePretoria based Backpackers % ais 083-629 8282) ( % ( % ) 011-806 6806;www.legacyhotels , as Bakubung Lodge Bakubung

014-555 5351;www.goldenleo (s/d withbreakfast &dinner comprises 760sqkm comprises ais The luxury safari Theluxurysafari ) Footprints inAfrica Footprints

as ( % and ) 014-555 5351; Tshukudu Tshukudu

, allrun ) (s/d with as 569

) SOUTH AFRICA AFRICA SOUTH SOUTH AFRICA prehistoric timesonward. hibits andphotos ontheregion dating from intimate campwithabodesinopen-fronted Centre grand 10am-1pm Sat) Sts;admission bydonation; Martin Museum Mafikeng tion. Themainreason tovisit istheexcellent town withalarge middle-class blackpopula- hatswana president, LucasMangope. absurd buildingserected bycorruptBophut- and and becamefamousforthemonumental dependent’ homelandof Bophuthatswana, ofMmabatho wasbuiltasthecapital the‘in- bined andMmabatho ispartof Mafikeng. towns about3kmapart,butare nowcom- Mafikeng andMmabathowere originally twin % MAFIKENG prevailed upontostopinthereserve. ontheirwayfromGaboronecanbe Buses 510 fromRustenburg, orRte 49fromZeerust. gatesteng viatheN4andRte tothereserve It takes about fourhours todrive fromGau- THERE&AWAYGETTING inAfrica. else Tree Lodge –cancompete withanywhere sign flair,Jaci’s twolodges –SafariLodge and ais s/d withfullboardaroundUS$870/1081,children US$200; and allmeals. includebushwalks,wildlifeable. drives Rates and hotwater boilers ensure it’sstillcomfort- ity orrunningwater –canvasbucket showers log cabins,especiallysincethere’s noelectric- US$216/337) .thebushcamp.com; s/dwithfullboard&shared bathroom guided wildlife drives inopenvehicles. and campswithinthepark,allof which do you’ll have tobookintooneof the24lodges Madikwe isnotopentodayvisitors, sotovisit SLEEPING &EATING South Africa’sbest-kept secrets. option forchildren. InallMadikwe isoneof species. It’salsomalaria-free, makingitagood are nowpresent, together withover 350bird of theBigFive, plustheendangered wilddog, 570 For helpandinformation visittherather Jaci’s Lodges Mosethla BushCamp Today Mafikeng isafriendlyandrelaxed 018 /pop50,900 NORTH-WEST PROVINCE •• Mafikeng ••Mafikeng PROVINCE NORTH-WEST

( % Mafikeng Tourism Info & Development Info & Development Tourism Mafikeng There’s nothingfancyaboutthis ) For sheer luxury,panache andde- 018-381 3155; www.tourismnorthwest.co.za; 018-381 3155; www.tourismnorthwest.co.za; , which hasreams of quirkyex- ( %

( % 083-00 2071;www.madikwe.com; 018-381 6102; cnr Carrington & 018-381 6102;cnrCarrington ( % h 011-444 9345;www 8am-4pm Mon-Fri, 8am-4pm Mon-Fri, get anen-suite room.Allthespick-and-span bracket; payaroundUS$14extraandyou’ll This isMafikeng’s bestoptioninthisprice is stylishandelegantwithultramodernfur- dela Dr;mainsUS$6-8; ais Dr;rUS$120; NelsonMandela [email protected]; buzzing. meals andheavy cakes. Theatmosphere is Pharmacy, thisis mains US$2.80; FarmaCafé Eating swana homeland. town centre, isalegacyof theoldBophuthat- opulent resort andcasino,3.5kmfromthe posted off Shippard St. nishings andabeautifulgarden.It’swellsign- 12CookSt;rUS$80; worldonline.co.za; there’s avery convivialrestaurant-bar. fridge andkitchenette,rooms have and aTV, Havenga Sts;s/dwithshared bathroomfromUS$20/30; GuestLodge View Garden Sleeping tonoonSat) Mon-Fri, Dr; Rd&NelsonMandela cnr Licthenburg (Botswana; US$2.80);Gaborone (US$4.70); (US$2); Lobatse running all day);Zeerust headed fortheBotswana border(US$0.70, the forecourt of the Mafikeng trainstation, (US$1.40, sixhours). fromMegacity toJo’burgates dailyservices is 16kmnorthwestof Mafikeng. with connectionstoothercities.The airport toJo’burg fourdaysaweek (US$120) flights (Botswana). and liesonthemainroute to/fromGaborone 24km tothenorth,isbusiestborderpost their wayto/fromBotswana. Ramatlabama, Many Mafikeng peoplecomethrough on &Around There Getting with aflourish. domes, which waiters thetuxedoed remove the plates comecoveredservice: withsilver old-fashionedgood mealsandhasdelightfully PlaceHotel does restaurant intheBelvoir Long-distance minibus taxis leave minibustaxis Long-distance from Mmbatho Buses SAAirlink Tusk MmabathoResort Ferns CountryLodge Karibu Restaurant Karibu )

Mafikeng’s luxuryoption,this

( ( % Book accommodationBook online at lonelyplanet.com % h 011-978 1111;www.saairlink.co.za) 018-381 4906; 17 Nelson Mandela Dr; 018-381 4906;17NelsonMandela breakfast &lunchMon-Sat) .

( % h the

( % 018-381 2680;Megacity) lunch &dinner) placeforbreakfast, light

(

% ( 018-386 2222;NelsonMan- %

( % 018-381 3110; cnr North & 018-381 3110;cnrNorth 018-381 5971;ferns@ 018-389 1111;mma ais lonelyplanet.com Thisgrand h InEra’s 8am-6pm Ferns ) oper- has s

) for afew rand. stop Mafikeng the morning. and Rustenburg (US$4).Mostleave earlyin lonelyplanet.com white farmers. were attacked, leading tothedeaths of 13 spot of racial tension: in2005some35farms est poverty rates inthecountry,isalsoahot ‘Crook’s Corner’. other outlaws–somuch sothatitwasdubbed a haven forivoryhunters, gunrunners and bique andZimbabwe,earnedareputation as ern Limpopo,neartheborders with Mozam- a periodof resistance againstthesettlers. Conflict withthelocalNdebelepeoplemarked inPietersburgbase (nowPolokwane)in1886. their in themid-19thcentury,establishing in the8thand9thcenturies. area of 30,000sqkmandenjoyingitsheyday holdingswayoveradvanced civilisations, an heart of oneof Africa’smosttechnologically Mapungubwe NationalPark wasoncethe 500,000 years, whilethearea thatisnow ological record stretching backmore than Sites inthe area have offered upanarchae- HISTORY Venda people. and theintriguingtraditionalhomelandof the to thetropicalfruitfarmsof Valley theLetaba money. Heritage Site thatgives Kruger arunforits Mapungubwetacular NationalPark, aWorld will bebetter off headingnorthtothespec- BigFive spotters hot springsatBela-Bela. life parks,lodges andresorts, includingthe scrubby hillsthatare wild- hometoseveral Limpopo (theBushveld) undulates into what gems lieoff thebeaten path. placesgivesnects these littleimpression of thatcon- driving alongthebusyN1highway doormat intomore exoticdestinations.But Park andGauteng, andisoften considered a Botswana,Zimbabwe,Krugertween National Modern Limpopo sitsatakey crossroadsbe- LIMPOPO City buses runalongtheroute the between City buses East ofEast theN1,drylandscapegives way Heading northfromJo’burg, southwest The province, which has oneof thehigh- Around theturnof the20thcentury,east- The Voortrekkers madethisregion home (cnr Main St&StationRd) (cnr Main LIMPOPO••History andMegacity to theroadBoekenhout for8km. head 13kmsouthontheN1andturneast US$3.40/2) ance totheVoortrekkers. ation, tells thestoryof thelocalpeople’sresist- Mon-Fri) adult/student/child US$0.40/0.10/0.10; isnearby. Citrusestate, sphere, theZedebiela The largest citrusfarminthesouthernhemi- operations forplatinumanddiamond mining. are quieter now,andthetownisakey of base from thepeoplealready livingthere. Things early byVoortrekkers, notwithoutresistance this way),227kmnorthof Pretoria, was settled tobeup town(they all seem This conservative % &Around Mokopane (Potgietersrus) ( are 426species listed) andhasabasic birds(thereof thecountry’sbestplacestosee h ( The 3000-hectare Reserve Nylsvley Nature is cheaper intheevening. universe.centre Admission of theBela-Bela sitsatthe kind intheworldandcertainly biggest of tobethesecond Resort, issaid its child US$5.50; St;adult/childUS$8/7,5-10pmadult& Voortrekker .co.za; it up. no shortage of folkfrom thebigcitiestosoak bubble outof hourandthere’s theearthevery century. Around22,000Lof thewarmstuff discovered bytheTswana intheearly19th baths) hasgrownonthebackof thehotsprings (Warm- The small,soporifictownof Bela-Bela % (Warmbaths) Bela-Bela train stopsattownsalongtheN1. runalongtheN1,and buses Pietersburg/Polokwane. route, includingtheprovincial of capital popo. Theprovince’s major townslinethis toria totheZimbabweborderdividesLim- runningfromJo’burgN1 highway andPre- (butheavilyThe wide,mostlystraight tolled) THE N1HIGHWAY % % Makapan The Translux, Greyhound andCityto The 6am-6pm) 015 /pop120,000 014 /pop37,200 014-743 1074;campsitesUS$7) 014-743 1074;adult/child/vehicleUS$1.40/0.70/2.70; , atthebackof thePublicityAssoci- Arend Dieperink Museum Dieperink Arend hydro spa , 23kmnortheast of Mokopane, isa h ’ , 20kmsouthof Naboom,is one s Caves 7am-4pm &5-10pm) (

% ( % Nylsvley Nature Reserve Nylsvley Nature 014-736 2200;www.aventura 015-491 8458; adult/student . For the reserve, . Forthereserve, , attheAventura

( h % 7.30am-4.30pm 015-491 9735; Bosvelder camp site 571

SOUTH AFRICA AFRICA SOUTH SOUTH AFRICA 572 0 50 km LIMPOPO (NORTHERN PROVINCE) 0 30 miles Mazunga

To Harare Province) LIMPOPO ••Limpopo(Northern Serule (555km) Z I M B A B W E Mmadinare Motloutse River Tuli r

Ὀ e Circle Bubi River v

i Rv opo R imp Riv i Chicualacuala L er z e n Pont Beitbridge e Mapungubwe w B O T S W A N A Drift River NP Limpopo M Serowe R572 Musina Musina Masisi Platjan NR Parfuri Gate Lotsane River Zanzibar Palapye Bridgewater R525 Thulamela Zanzibar River R508 r Archaeological Matavhelo e River Tshipise iv Site ὈGregory Alldays ὈὈὈὈR Mamoluki 208 Brak u Maasstroom Nwanedi h R527 r Sand Wyllie's v e NP vu Swartwater iv Poort u R L R524 WaterpoorR523 Pass Makhado Lose Martin's Grobler's Lesheba Wilderness; u t p a n Sibasa Babalala Limpopo River Tolwe Lajuma Mountain Retreat S o s b e r Sefare Drift Bridge R522 g Thohoyandou Tom Burke Vivo Makhado Mavamba Mahalapye (Louis Trichardt) Tshakhuma

Marnitz Magalakwin R521 River Beauty Lajuma; Borchers LEGEND Medike Mountain Ben Lavin R Baltimore 81 Nsama GR Game Reserve Reserve NR R578

MonteM Christo Legkraal NP National Park Limpopo Bandelierkop ὈὈὈὈGiyani o Dendron Mamaila Kruger NR Nature Reserve n Steilloopbrug R529 Stockpoort g Botlokwa River NP WA Wilderness Area o M O Z A M B I Q U E l Moletzie R WR Wilderness Reserve R Marken N Kalkbank 36 Mooiplaas i 11

v Lapalala River Bird Sanctuary Mooketsi Modjadji NR er Ellisras Gilead N GaModjadji Buffel's Drift Giriyondo 1 Letaba Letaba River Matlabas Duivelskloof- Valley Hans Merensky NR r R R518Lapalala Matlala GaKgapane e Afguns 33 Magoebaskloof iv Wilderness Groesbeek Ndzalama WR Lulekani Lake R Pass Tzaneen a Mokamole R Letsitele R Nova an River Elmeston Mokolo 71 71 Phalaborwa Lagoa tw Percy Fyfe Polokwane Haenertsburg Namakgale go Dam Melkrivier Boyne Gravelotte Nova N Spanwerk ὈSterkwater ὈNR R (Pietersburg)ὈὈὈὈὈὈὈὈὈ Hermanusdorings 37 River MahwelerengR518 Wolkberg Olifants Oliphants Drift Rooibokkraal Welgevonden WA R526 C Reserve Mokopane ro Matlabas Makapan's Mica c R510 (Potgietersrus) Chuniespoort Trichardtsdal o Sentrum Marakele Vaalwater Cave Lekgalameetse To Gaborone d R517Bakkers Klaserie Private il NP NR (50km) e PalalaR519 NR Kransberg Pass ὅὅὅ Lebowakgomo R Hoedspruit River (2100m) Tweetstroom Mookgophong 37 Kapama r g R527 Maricosdraai W b e (Naboomspruit) GR Timbavati R531 a t e r Alma Immerpan Hoedspruit Eastgate Airport River Ben Alberts Rankin's Mosdene Orpen To Gaborone R516 Thabazimbi ὅὅὅNR N Kampersrus R Gate (85km) Derdepoort NR Pass N 11 Roedtan R Drakensberg 40 Modimolle1 36 Acornhoek d (Nylstroom) Nyani Cultural Kayaseput n Nylsvley ὄ ὈRooiberg Mabula ὈὈὈὈὈὈὈὈὈὈὈVillage a NR

Sand lonelyplanet.com r R511 GR R n R510 33 Watervalsrivier River i e Northam Bela-Bela Pass Bushbuckridge t Leeupoort n (Warmbaths- Graskop o Settlers f RiverWarmbad) Elands River M P U M A L A N G A River i t N O R T H - W E S T Moretele Sabie Hazyview W Lydenburg Sabie River P R O V I N C E Assen Klipvoor Grobersdal Dam G A U T E N G To N4 (45km); To Sun City Marigo Temba White River Beestekraal To Pretoria (40km); Pretoria (289km); Nespruit To Rustenburg (32km) Ὀ Johannesburg (83km)ὈDamwal Johannesburg (305km) Ὀ(20km) ὈὈὈ the country,with21wildlife speciesinclud- of thelargest in municipalwildlife reserves devoted tonorthernSotho culturedevoted andin- of PolokwaneonRte 37toChuniespoort,is Book accommodationBook online at lonelyplanet.com tree.co.za; 138 Marshall St;s/dwith breakfast US$57/72; tree.co.za; 138Marshall Association. prebook visitswiththeMokopaneTourism dated tobethree millionyears old.Youmust as has yieldedbonesof anearlyhuman,known palaeontological site of worldsignificance,and lonelyplanet.com comforts comeasstandard. bungalows andallthecouch creature potato this busylittleplace, where roomsare intwee ais welcomes andoodlesof homecomforts. parrots, thistip-tophideawayoffers friendly a soundtrackprovided byabraceof talking Surrounded byacycad-filled gardenandwith St;s/dwithbreakfast US$40/52; 2Voortrekker .co.za; the backpacker market. cater to place doesn’t this smart,self-catering 43BokSt;s/dUS$37/39; .co.za; Lodge Travellers SLEEPING produce handicrafts. cludes anauthentic‘living’village where locals h Museum are available. centre in UnionPark. andchalets Camping a 20kmhikingtrail.Itissouthof thetown andwhiteing zebras,giraffes rhinos,plus child/vehicle US$1.60/1.10/2.70; Reserve Polokwane Game SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES sprinkler. be getting soaked byanoverzealous garden to days,thebiggest riskseems these capital backstreets of SouthAfrica’ssafest provincial sipated andifyouare the wanderingthrough Much to have of thisconflictnowseems dis- andthe‘hostilenatives’. of tail tropicaldisease Voortrekkers toescapetheusualcock- seeking centre, Polokwanewasfoundedin1886by streets surroundingabustlingcommercial A ratheragreeably cluster sedate of suburban % Polokwane (Pietersburg) Plumtree Lodge Plumtree Guest House Vivaldi The Australopithecus africanus, 8.30am-12.30pm &1.30-3.30pm) 015 /pop140,000 Bakone Malapa Northern SothoOpen-Air Northern Bakone Malapa

( % ) Thecrowdsvote withtheir feet at 015-295 2432;adult/childUS$0.40/0.20; (

% LIMPOPO••TheN1Highway

015-291 5511;incatrav@worldonline ( (

% % 015-295 6162;vivaldi1@mweb a 015-295 6153;www.plum

( h % ) Despite thename, 7am-4.30pm) , 9kmsoutheast 015-290 2331;adult/ radiocarbon- isone a

) Jo’burg (US$14, five hours). hours), Makhado (US$2.80, 1¼hours) and Polokwane include Thohoyandou (US$4,2½ President Kruger Sts.Fares andDevenish from rankisonthecorner ofThe mainminibus taxi Minibus Taxi depart fromoutsideLibraryGardens. hours) andJo’burg (US$16, 4½hours). Buses (US$5.50, 1¼hours), Pretoria (US$1.40,3½ Mokopane (US$6,40minutes), Mookgophong PolokwaneandJo’burg. Thebusstopsat tween Hans Van St) Rensburg stop onCivicSq. hours) andHarare (US$38,12hours). Buses links PolokwanewithJo’burg (US$25,five anumberof smallertowns. serve runs thecheaper which Citytobuses, hours), (US$47,24hours). andLusaka Italso (US$19, 3½hours), Jo’burg (US$19,4½ Sts) &ThaboMbeki bert Translux Bus port (US$110 toUS$157oneway). offices attheairport,fliesdailyto/fromJo’burg SAAirlink Air THERE&AWAYGETTING surrounds. thighs inyee-har upsteaks thesizeof aspringbok’s place serves mains US$4-7; eats. based Grobler Stoffers of thewidestselection steak- brary Gardens,buttheSavannah on Centre inLi- You canfindalltheusualtakeaways EATING North LinkTours North Cock Greyhound Greyhound can beconfusingattimes. catch up.As aresult, travel intheprovince signs andmanylocalresidents have yetto changed ontheofficialrecord, someroad whileallnameshaveUnfortunately, been name thengive theoldnameinbrackets. changed inrecent years. Welistthenew the nameofprovince itself,have been Many townnamesinLimpopo,including WHAT’S INANAME?

( % ‘

n

( 015-288 0122) ( % ’ % Bull h 015-295 5548; www.translux.co.za; cnrJou- 015-295 5548;www.translux.co.za; 015-288 0166;www.saairlink.co.za) ( %

lunch &dinner; ( % runs daily (10am) buses be- runsdaily(10am)buses 011-276 8500;www.greyhound.co.za) ( % runs services to Pre runsservices toria is5kmnorthof town. 015-296 0961; Savannah Centre; 015-296 0961;Savannah 015-291 1867; 13 Library Gardens, 015-291 1867;13LibraryGardens, a ) Thispub-style Polokwane air- , with 573

SOUTH AFRICA AFRICA SOUTH SOUTH AFRICA between Jo’burgbetween andMusina. Fares include: Polokwane daily(exceptSaturday)enroute dinner. den andenjoyalazybreakfast, lunch orlight sandwiches. of burgers locally famous sausages, and lutely packed withpeopletrying toget hold St; h Cafe d EATING good nature. It’s10kmfromthecentre. onitsconvivialatmosphereprides itself and styled rooms,thisbeautifullyremote place of quirkycharacter andcolourful,individually lantic.net; s/dwithbreakfast US$42/55; arehowever, alittledowdy. (often empty)Merry Monkpub.Therooms, andthe has clippedgardens,charming staff resort-style place,ontheroadtoMusina, s/dwithbreakfast.mountainviewhotel.co.za; US$37/52) basic rooms,kitchenette andabraaiarea. welcoming placeonthemainroadhassome HlangananiSt;s/dUS$27/36; lodge.co.za; person US$6) GroblerSt;campsitesper www.caravanparks.co.za/makhado; Park Caravan Municipal Makhado SLEEPING perdayupto4peopleUS$189). 0102; [email protected]; up to4peopleUS$160) South Africa’s900birdspecies. versity of floraand fauna, including615of whichmountains, boastanextraordinarydi- nature andhikingtrailsinthenearby reserves board tosomeworthwhilecountrylodges, that surroundsit.Treat thetownasaspring- contrasttotheverdanta stark countryside Makhado isalittlehardontheeyes– Scruffy % (LouisTrichardt) Makhado 7¼ hours). hours) andMusina(1st/2ndclassUS$14/9.50, Makhado (1st/2ndclassUS$9.50/5.50,four Jo’burg hours), (1st/2ndclassUS$15/10,eight The Train 574 Africa Ricky GuestHouse Ultimate Hotel Mountain View Lodge Louis Trichardt For areliable touroperator,contact h breakfast, lunch&dinner) 015 /pop90,000 Bosvelder ’

Art ( LIMPOPO •• The N1 Highway LIMPOPO ••TheN1Highway 8am-8pm Mon-Sat) % ’ s Takeaway

( % Acentralcampingoption. 015-516 2076; [email protected]; perday 015-516 2076;[email protected]; 015-516 5760;129KroghSt;mainsUS$2.80-7;

( % or 086-000 8888)

Travel Africa Trails Africa Travel ( % Thisplacegets abso- (

% Kickbackinthegar-

( % 015-516 0414;36Boabab ( % 015-517 7005;ultimategh@ 015-516 2222;www.ltt 015-517 7031;www s passes through through passes

( % With buckets ) is 015-519 3025; ( % 082-139 This ) This Face Face on aVenda-style village. Surroundedbywild- US$34/115; 593 0076;www.lesheba.co.za; rondavel/full-boardrperperson Perched intheclouds, LESHEBA WILDNERNESS US$5.50 perperson perday. modation isinhutsandthere’s atrailfee of accom- laria, bilharziaandticks.Overnight forest Take station. precautions againstma- itbeginsatHanglipclimb upa1719mpeak; The two-day,20.5km TRAILS HIKING SOUTPANSBERG (LouisTrichardt) Around Makhado northeast of Songozwi St. supermarket carparkoffBurger St,ablock (1st/2nd classUS$20/14,11hours). stops here andlinksMakhado withJo’burg end of Kruger St.The the cornerof St. theN1andBaobab on hours) petrolstation stopbytheCaltex (US$24, 5½hours) andHarare (US$50,11 linkingMakhadoMost buses withJo’burg local agent forGreyhound andTransluxbuses. alley offBurger St(opposite Bradlows),isthe h The THERE&AWAYGETTING Musina is a hot, dusty settlement withafron- Musina is ahot,dustysettlement town totheZimbabwe border, The closest % Musina entrance gate onyourleft. the to theleft.After about3km,you’llsee 10km, thentake theFortEdwardturn-off personUS$11) US$9; dlodgeUS$35,perextra person (camp sitesperpersonUS$5.50;dhutUS$29, extra zebras andjackals.Arange of 240birdspecies,aswellgiraffes, contains bikewalking andmountain trails. Thereserve US$4/1.40; ( somewhatneglected,Although this RESERVE NATURE LAVIN BEN ers. It’s36kmwestof Makhado onRte 522. rooms withcosyfireplaces andoutdoorshow- in rondavels, orafull-board option inbed- the resort accommodation offers self-catering life, includingrare brownhyenasandleopards, % Take theN1southfromMakhado forabout isatthesouthwestern The trainstation The minibus taxi rankisintheShopriteThe minibustaxi 8am-1pm & 2-4pm Mon-Fri, 9-11amSat) 8am-1pm &2-4pmMon-Fri, 015 /pop20,000 015-516 4534;www.satis.co.za/benlavin; adult/child Louis Trichardt Travel Agency Travel Louis Trichardt h is Book accommodationBook online at lonelyplanet.com 6am-6pm) ) is an excellent hideaway based based isanexcellenthideaway isstillworthvisitingforits Lesheba Wilderness Bosvelder Hanglip Trail lonelyplanet.com (

( %

% accommodation isavailable. , downan 015-516 5042; 086-000 8888) includesa ( reserve %

015-

Inspiration didn’tplayaroleintheplanning hours) orHarare (US$34,10hours). stop here ontheirwaytoJo’burg (US$25, 7½ .co.za/html/2175.html; Rte 572;s/dUS$42/56; Rte .co.za/html/2175.html; Book accommodationBook online at lonelyplanet.com Mapungubwe NationalPark. centre totheexcellent placeclose isasleepy largest inthesouthernhemisphere. Thetown VenetiaDeBeers diamondmine,thesecond defunct copperminesandthestill-active tier feel toit.Thetowngrew aroundnow- lonelyplanet.com catch oneattheborder asthere are many further souththan Musina, take aminibus taxi If you’re comingfromZimbabwe andwantto Minibus Taxi Translux Bus 1km fromthecrossingitself. rank ontheSouthAfricansideof theborder, coming fromZimbabwe,there isalarge taxi north of Musina,isopen24 hours. Ifyouare 14km The ZimbabweanborderatBeitbridge, THERE&AWAYGETTING restaurant, located nearthetouristoffice. and ribsfeature prominentlyatthischain ate cowboyattitudeandlarge platters of steak mains US$4-8; about 45kmoutof Musina. hyenas. It’sontheroadtoMapungubwe, including white leopardsand rhinos,giraffes, hasarich varietyofRanch wildlife species, better private Dongola wildlife reserves, s/d US$42/56; Mapungubwe. from MusinaalongRte 572,onthewayto hush andwide,openspaces.Itislocated 8km units, surroundedbyplentyof bush-style lodgepleasant hassomeniceself-catering for Limpopo. but theroomsare fineandmercifullycheap of thisplace,andthedécor isratherflaky, limpopo.co.za; 6NationalRd;sUS$17-22,dUS$27-38; Lodge Limpopo River SLEEPING &EATING from Polokwane. thatched hut onthewayintotownN1 office forinformationonthearea. It’sina www.golimpopo.com; NationalRd; Dongola Ranch Stop inatthe Buffalo Ridge Spur Buffalo Ridge Ilala CountryLodge

( % s h 015-295 5548;www.translux.co.za) ) breakfast, lunch&dinner; Considered oneof Limpopo’s LIMPOPO••Venda Region (

% Musina Tourism Musina

015-533 1948;www.dongola.co.za;

(

( ( % % % 015-534 0204; riverlodge@ 015-534 0204;riverlodge@ 015-534 1127;NationalRd; 015-534 3220;www.places h 8.30am-4pm Mon-Fri) (

% a 015-534 3500; s Corpor- ) buses buses ) This a

) 000 8888) Venda Homeland, thecityof Thohoyandou Created of asthe capital theapartheid-era % &Sibasa Thohoyandou to playamajor life. roleineveryday huts, alandwhere mythandlegend continue of mist-cladhilltops,dustystreets andmud from thefreeway takes anAfrica youthrough uptown Jo’burg; here ashortdiversion even is aworldawayfromtheSouth Africa of under theapartheidregime, theVenda region ofthe start the18th century.Longneglected to thearea frommodern-dayZimbabweat homeland of the Venda people,whomoved Soutpansberg region, thisisthetraditional Perhaps of themostenigmaticsection the VENDA REGION on Rte 572. Pontdrift road.It’sa60kmdrive fromMusina and LimpopoRivers, northof theMusinato (US$54; (US$9.50) sites are already available. tered, three-day trails(US$240)tothemajor Shortmuseum. walks(US$4)andfullyca- Iron Age inanon-site artefacts canbeseen andmany intoZimbabwecivilisation sight opportunities forwildlife-spotting. all of theBigFive, withalmostunparalleled 28,000 hectares andboastspopulationsof tember parkcovers 2004,thisspectacular h www.sanparks.org/parks/mapungubwe; adult/childUS$8/4; the louder thaninLimpopo’snewestattraction, The callof thewildisperhapsnowhere NationalPark Mapungubwe hours) viaMakhado andPolokwane. slowly) toJo’burg (1st/2ndclassUS$25/17,14 The daily(exceptSaturday) Train minutes). theborderandMusinacostUS$2(20 tween and Jo’burg (US$1.40,7½hours). Taxis be- 1½ hours), Polokwane(US$5.50,2½hours) fares fromMusinaincludeMakhado (US$4, more there thaninMusina. Destinationsand The parkisattheconfluenceof theShashe At the Leokwe Rest Camp youcan Rest Camp At theLeokwe Mapungubwe Hilloffers anexcellentin- 6am-6pm). 015 /pop50,000 Mapungubwe NationalPark Mapungubwe as , or stay inopulent,two-bed, orstay terminates atMusina. Ittravels (very Opened uptothepublicinSep- ) . Bosvelder

( % 015-534 2014; (

% chalets camp 575 086

SOUTH AFRICA AFRICA SOUTH SOUTH AFRICA 758 MphephuSt;s/dwithbreakfast US$40/44) adult/vehicle US$1.40/2; drop to providesRange anextremely scenicback- The drynorthern sideof theSoutpansberg Park National Nwanedi Tusk Venda. Thefare isUS$0.50. toSibasa in thecarparkof theshoppingcentre nearthe nine hours). (US$2.80, 1½hours) andJo’burg (US$1.40, Destinations andfares includeMakhado Pretoria (US$1.40,7½hours). 8.30am forJo’burg (US$1.40,8½hours) and centre of leave Sibasa. Buses morningat every run fromaterminal justupRte 524fromthe City to THERE&AWAYGETTING a pennyortwo. trimmings andplentyof ways tofritter away the localhustleandbustle. Itoffers plentyof sino resort looksratherincongruousamong slice of Vegas intheheartof Venda, thisca- Mphephu St;s/dwithbreakfast US$70/96; rooms. mud wallsandthatched roofs, andhasclean opts formock-traditionaldécor,withfake smiles too. blooming bougainvilleahere –andplentyof As bythename,there promised isplentyof villalodge.com; MphephuSt;s/dwithbreakfast US$34/45) Bougainvillea Lodge SLEEPING Thohoyandou; Centre &Culture Arts dudzi, canbearranged through far north. exit pointifyouplantoexplore thepark’s Kruger’s PundaMaria Gate, andagoodentry/ leaves fromSibasa. few kilometres north.Mostpublictransport marketplace. Theadjacenttownof isa Sibasa with allthepush-and-shove of thebackstreet shopping centre andadjacentcasinoresort ofdose Africanchaos, matching alooming functional town-planningwithahealthy (Elephant Head) blendssomeimpressively 576 Tours to nearby sights, including Lake Fun- Tours includingLake tonearbysights, Thohoyandou isaneasy65kmdrive to In Thohoyandou, congregate minibustaxis Tusk Venda The main minibus taxi rank is in Sibasa. rankisinSibasa. The mainminibustaxi Lodge Vevisa LIMPOPO ••TheWaterberg Nwanedi National Park

( % h

( % 015-295 5548; www.translux.co.za) 015-295 5548;www.translux.co.za) 6am-6pm)

( % 015-962 4600; www.tusk-resorts.co.za; 015-962 4600;www.tusk-resorts.co.za;

( h 015-962 5252; [email protected]; 015-962 5252;[email protected]; ( % % . 6am-6pm) 082-401 9756; Punda Maria Rd, 082-401 9756;Punda Maria 015-962 4064;www.bougain , although it’sa , although ( % as Thohoyandou Thohoyandou 015-539 0723; Thisplace Alittle ) buses buses

wildlife speciesand thelargest colonyof the try. Elephants, rhinosand manyotherlarge the Waterberg’s coun- mountain spectacular per tentUS$7) silly doingit. yourlegs.Andtrynottolook from between turn yourbacktoit,bendover, andviewit the lake youmustdosowithproperrespect; Makhado. Rememberthatwhenyouapproach have atourorganised fromThohoyandou or tribe. The easiest waytoget permission isto from thelake’s custodians,theNetshiavha dou, butyoucan’tvisititwithoutpermission lives here. culture andoncerequired humansacrifice, place intherites of theVenda’s matriarchal The pythongod,whoholdsanimportant covered theearthbefore landwascreated. tohavelieved comefromthegreat that sea This lake isasacred site, asitswater isbe- Fundudzi Lake enter from thewest. dirt road.It’ssimplertocomeviaTshipise and lost, andthere are kilometres several of bad road isscenicthere’s agoodchance of getting dou, entering attheNwanedigate; the though restaurant.licensed suppliesareBasic available andthere’s afully adult/child US$8/4; ( Wildlife Reserve. intheDinaka horsesafari ing aneight-day offers thegreatest varietyof options,includ- Adventures two- tothree-hour ride. one charges aroundUS$24toUS$34fora Vaalwater youupwithasteed. Each canset eral operators andlodges nearthetownof is idealforexploringonhorseback, and sev- tional placeetched byrivers. River.to theLapalala Itisawildandinspira- from ThabazimbiinLimpopo’ssouthwestup makes uppartof theBushveld region, stretches The 150km-long Waterberg which Range, THE WATERBERG Tshihovhohovho FallsTshihovhohovho major walkinthe park istothevery scenic contrast totheVenda’s lush landscapes.The % The ratherisolated The rollingterrain of theWaterberg Range The lake is35kmnorthwestof Thohoyan- You canreach theparkfromThohoyan- The parkhas 014-777 1745; www.sanparks.org/parks/marakele; 014-777 1745;www.sanparks.org/parks/marakele;

, andfour-person ( Book accommodationBook online at lonelyplanet.com % h 014-755 4003;www.ridinginafrica.com) camp sites 7.30am-6pm) . Marakele NationalPark Marakele (per personUS$2.80,plus

Horizon Horseback Horizon isintheheartof lonelyplanet.com rondavels

(US$47) .

the Matlabas River. located 17kmfromreception onthebanksof .co.za) Book accommodationBook online at lonelyplanet.com deteriorate markedly to anda4WDisneeded theroads road,butintheparkitself sealed breeding pairs) calltheparkhome. endangered vultureCape intheworld (800 lonelyplanet.com Forestry Association Forestry trails,contact book hutsonthese three-day, 40km two-day, 21km Debengeni Falls a numberof waterfalls inthearea including of thickindigenous forest. andlarge plantations passing through tracts quickly downtoTzaneen and thelowveld, edge of thehighveld, andtheroadhere drops The Magoebaskloof istheescarpment onthe Pass Magoebaskloof for shorthikes signposted fromtheroad. plenty of placeswhere youcanget outandgo 71 isarguably thebetter drive, andthere are along themore gentle George’s Valley. Rte Magoebaskloof Pass, whiletheRte 528runs with theRte 71reaching Tzaneen viathesteep fruits below,andforested hillsabove. andcropsofwith tea plantations tropical Homeland. Thevalleyissubtropicalandlush, twochunkstween of theformerLebowa The ValleyLetaba iseastof Polokwane,be- Valley Letaba area. intheHoedspruit the manyprivate reserves Kruger NationalPark, oravisittooneof popular foranorth–southtraverse through Tsonga, Shangaan andLobedupeople. It’salso rich area, beingthetraditionalhomeof the Limpopoisanattractive,Eastern culturally THE EAST the Rooiberg road. where thisroadintersects withtheMatlabas– on theThabazimbi–Almaroad,3kmfrom water, over Bakkers thespectacular Pass. there accessroad6kmpastVaal- isarough access someof thebesttrails.Fromnorth, It canbereached fromThabazimbiby At Haenertsburg theroadsplitsintwo, There isfour-bed tented accommodationin The The high summerrainfall meansthereThe high are Two recommended walkingtrailsare the Tlopi Tent Camp . booking office booking in the De Hoek State Forest. State intheDeHoek LIMPOPO••TheEast Debengeni Falls Trail

Dokolewa Waterfall Trail Dokolewa Waterfall (d US$75, extras perpersonUS$14) (d US$75,extras ( %

( h 012-481 3615; ecotour@safcol from 8am) islocated Komatiland andthe . To , 305 2424; Danie Joubert St) 305 2424;DanieJoubert Reserve Covering just305hectares, Reserve Modjadji Nature behind theTzaneen Mall. Phalaborwa (US$1.40, onehour). 4½ hours), Jo’burg (US$19, 5½hours) and book tickets atthe (US$20, sixhours) Youcan fourdaysaweek. North LinkTours runfromtoJo’burg buses THERE&AWAYGETTING US$50/61) with18roomsandapub. also anupmarket hotel (single/doublerooms breakfast.and ahealthycontinental Thisis decentsteaks, Grove salads town, High serves lunch &dinner) Agathatzaneen.co.za; Rd;mainsUS$5.50-8; for US$27. cal garden.There are alsosomebasicrooms chalets andaleafytropi- self-catering fortable thatched, four-star placehassomevery com- One of thetown’sswankiestoptions,this viewlodge.co.za; s/dwithbreakfast US$47/69; andbedsinoldworkers’setting cottages. blend of budget accommodation, withafarm many backpackers, Satvikoffers amore rustic dm/d US$9.50/24) Valley George’s Rd;campsitesUS$5.50, [email protected]; Village Backpackers Satvik SLEEPING &EATING mountains. chances tobike, climborhike inthenearby spotwithplentyofpleasant quietcorners and Surrounded bylush,subtropicalhills,thisisa best knownforitsavocados andmangoes. and thesecond-largest inLimpopo,isperhaps thelargestneen, Valley townneartheLetaba At thehubof arich fruit-growing area, Tza- % Tzaneen 71, nearthejunctionwithRte 36. and juices.It’sonthebottomstretch of Rte country breakfasts pluslocallyproducedjams Haenertsburg andTzaneen. Youcanget good great placetobreak uptheroadtripbetween .com/thewheelbarrow; mealsUS$4-8; Most minibus taxis depart fromarank Most minibustaxis runtoPretoriaTranslux buses (US$19, Lodge Grove High Lodge River Fairview 015 /pop81,000 The Wheelbarrow The

( % Probablytheclassiest placein 082-393 5551; adult/vehicleUS$1.40/2.70; Less technicolour than Less tacky

( Caltex petrolstation Caltex

% ( . % ( % 015-305 3039;www.tzaneen 015-307 7242;highgrove@ 015-307 2679;www.fair

h ( % ojdi Nature Modjadji 9am-4.30pm) 015-307 3920; h ais (

breakfast, % 577 isa 015-

) SOUTH AFRICA AFRICA SOUTH SOUTH AFRICA 30 AnnaScheepersAve; campsitesUS$7,dm/s/dwithshared off to the reserve isafurther18km. off tothereserve about 10kmnorthof Duivelskloof; theturn- 578 .co.za; cnrKoper&EssenhoutSts; s/dwithbreakfast.co.za; US$54/95; ably pricedtours and activities. town andoffer anexcellentrange of reason- the park.Theowners willpickyouupfrom roar, thisisagreat spottoplanyourforay into toKruger enough to hear thelions Close bathroomUS$40) bathroom US$10/19/27,dwithprivate comfy bedandayouthfulvibe. but it’sagoodspotifyou’re lookingfora and afriendlyatmosphere. crumbly, It’satad tolifebrought bylashingsof colourfulpaint backpackerstween andB&B, thisplaceis US$11/17/27; St;campsitesperpersonUS$6,dm/s/dfrom 15 Birkenhead Daan &Zena SLEEPING &EATING you mustphoneinadvance. artificial holeinAfrica,at9amonFriday,but 780 2911;admissionfree) route isonlyfor4WDvehicles. ondo bordergate Kruger andintoMozambiqueatthe zambique asit’snowpossibletodrive across Limpopo andMpumalanga. Airport) www.madsafari.com; by airtoJo’burg. a carfortouringtheparkandthenreturning by flyingfromJo’burg toPhalaborwa, hiring in SouthAfrica,itispossibletovisitKruger northern Kruger. Forpeoplewithlimited time if you’re intending toexplore centraland Park. of thetown’sproximity toKruger National andhotels thrivingontheback guesthouses ratheroutof place–withagroupofseem watered Hippos’signs suburbia–the‘Beware Phalaborwa isaneatlytended stretch of well- % Phalaborwa in accom modation on anethereal atmosphere. has Thereserve and thesurroundingVulovedu take Mountains Modjadji cycad.Inthesummermists,thisplace h Take fromRte theGaKgapaneturn-off 36 Sefapane Lodge Sefapane You cantourthenearby Elephant Walk Phalaborwa isalsoanewgateway toMo- Phalaborwa makes point anidealstarting 7.30am-6pm) 015 /pop109,000 SOUTH AFRICA DIRECTORY ••Accommodation SOUTH AFRICADIRECTORY ais ’ s

protects forests of theancient ( % (

( % % Mad Safari Tours Safari Mad

015-781 6049;www.daanzena.co.za; ( % , said toboastthelargest, said 013-735 8919) rondavels 015-781 5860; www.elewalk.com; 015-781 5860;www.elewalk.com; ) Bridgingthegapbe- runstripsintoKruger, 015-780 6700; www.sefapane copper (per personUS$17).

. See . See p299 . This ( %

mine 072-536 0667; ( %

Giriy- 015-

(US$180). The an officeattheairport,fliesdailytoJo’burg north of town. the airport. borwa Mall, Nelson Mandela St; NelsonMandela borwa Mall, Fri, 10.30am-1pmSat,4-6pmSun) Fri, Hiring acarisoften thecheapest wayof seeing CAR Middleburg, andare cheaper butslower. travelbuses toJo’burg (US$18,9½hours) via hours).Jo’burg Cityto (US$23,seven four hours), Pretoria (US$25,sixhours) and (US$1.40, 2½hours), Makhado (US$23, Tzaneen (US$1.40,onehour),Polokwane via PolokwaneandconnectPhalaborwa with travel Transluxservices City tobuses. 9am-noon Sat) Travel TurnSure Key Bus SAAirlink Air THERE&AWAYGETTING dining andAfricantrimmingsaplenty. placehasaniceterraceorientated foralfresco St; mainsUS$4-10; Accommodation isinrondavels. ofeateries andawhiff genuine exclusivity. styling, asunken bar,oneof thetown’sbest as in Europe, Australasiaor NorthAmerica. less than youwouldpay for theequivalent often standards, find high forsignificantly Whatever yourbudget, you’llgenerally ACCOMMODATION DIRECTORY SOUTH AFRICA 1½ hours). can catch connectionstoTzaneen (US$4.70, gale (US$0.70,20minutes). Fromhere, you and mostrunfromthetownshipof Namak- There aren’t inthisarea, manyminibustaxis Minibus Taxi Sun) 781 0376; 10.30am-1pmSat,4-6pmSun) Mon-Fri, the Kruger Park. Buffalo Pub&Grill and ) Sefapane hasplentyof safari-park Sefapane h

Budget ( % isthelocalagent forTransluxand 8am-6pm Mon-Fri, 10.30am-1pmSat,4-6pm 8am-6pm Mon-Fri, Book accommodationBook online at lonelyplanet.com 015-781 5823;www.saairlink.co.za) h airport ( % Avis lunch &dinner;

( 015-781 5404; %

( % (

%

015-781 7761;Shop42,Phala- ( % h 015-781 0829;1Lekkerbreek 015-781 3169; allhave at offices 015-781 5823) 8.30am-4.30pm Mon-Fri, 8.30am-4.30pm Mon-Fri, , a lonelyplanet.com Imperial h Thistourist- ) 8am-6pm Mon- h is2km

( % 8am-6pm , with 015- lonelyplanet.com and lodges. the national parksandatother private parks many of the accommodationoptionswith watching. which isalsothebest timeforwildlifeseason, get someexcellentdealsduringthe winter low have pricing. Conversely, ‘midseason’ youcan it’smore although commonto season, as high other school holidaysare alsooften classified times.The bookings are duringthese essential are Advance and minimumstays imposed. whenroompricesoftenaround Easter, double, December–January school break, andagain ations, withrates duringthe risingsteeply Europe orNorthAmerica. youwouldpayin lessthan,those or slightly would expectforpricesthatare similarto, offerPlaces atthislevel alltheamenitiesyou superbhotels. andseveral classic guesthouses the bestwildlife lodges intheregion, aswell be very goodvalue. budget tomidrange category –alsotends to tion atnationalparks–usuallypricedinthe accommoda- room.Self-catering comfortable private bathroomandaclean, orsemiprivate a good value,especiallyforB&Bs.Expect only budget optioniscamping. them; awayfromtouristareas sometimesthe price category isthatthere aren’t of enough cottages. Themaincaveat withplacesinthis camping, backpackers hostels andself-catering US$100, topendUS$100andabove. budget US$40andbelow,midrange US$40to Prices foraccommodationinthischapter are: At thetopend,SouthAfricaboastssomeof Be aware thatminimumchargesBe applyat There are pricevari- significantseasonal Midrange accommodationisparticularly At thebudget themainoptionsare level,

  PRACTICALITIES   

Access electricity (220-250V AC, 50Hz) with a three-pin adaptor(roundpins,thoughSouth (220-250VAC, withathree-pin Accesselectricity 50Hz) SouthAfrica usesthemetricsystem forweightsandmeasures. SABC radio comes in 11 languages. BBC’s World Service is available on short wave, medium isavailableonshort SABCradiocomesin11languages. BBC’sWorldService hasamore Tune toSABCforthenews(SABC3ismostlyEnglish).e-TV independent theTV Best weekly: stores. Africa hasitsownuniqueversion); theseare easyenoughtofind–checkincampingsupply wave and(innearLesotho) FM. viewpoint. M-Nethasmovies andsports. for travel news. ent; the Sunday Times; SOUTH AFRICA DIRECTORY ••Activities SOUTHAFRICADIRECTORY Mail &Guardian theJohannesburg . Bestdaily:the Star; Sowetan and the surroundingMpumalangaarea. in ahotairballoonincludeSabie ( p538 ) and spots include thefollowing: forbird-watchers.Africa is aparadise Top With itsenormousdiversity of South habitats, Bird-Watching River. ( p468 Plettenberg), between andStorms Bay bungee jumpatBloukrans River Bridge ( Town,try ners. InCape and numerousschools offer courses forbegin- www.sahpa.co.za) Gliding andParagliding Association Town’s Table Mountain. tinations forparagliding,particularlyCape www.aeroclub.org.za) is the pursuits. forgetting Ahelpfulcontact started make SouthAfricaafinedestinationforaerial of pointsfrom which high tolaunch yourself Ideal weatherconditionsandanabundance Pursuits Aerial toyourdestinationaspossible.as close at hostels. Trytobookdayorovernight trips to theoneslisted here, ask othertravellers and sible toall,whatever theirexperiencelevel. struction meanthatmostactivitiesare acces- bungee jump.Goodfacilitiesandin- highest possible –fromostrich riding to theworld’s favourable climate, justabout anythingis Thanks toSouthAfrica’sdiverse terrain and ACTIVITIES % Good placestofloatover thecountryside Business Day South Africa boasts the world’s highest South Africaboaststheworld’shighest South Africaisoneof theworld’s bestdes- There are dozensof operators. Inaddition 021-554 0592) . Others to look for: the tolookfor: . Others Aero ClubofSouthAfrica Aero canprovide namesof oper ators, . Checkout . . Getaway Paragliding Cape Town Paragliding Cape Sunday Independ- South African Hang South African

( % ( %

magazine 0861-018 018; 012-668 1219; 579

SOUTH AFRICA AFRICA SOUTH SOUTH AFRICA raptors and migratory species. See raptors andmigratoryspecies. See p528 . forits areas, andtheparkisknownparticularly the prime are considered for birding;thesouthandfarnorth Southern Africa. of themostsignificantwater-birdbreeding groundsin and theGreater StLucia WetlandPark ( p513 one ) protects ( p515 ) hostsover400specieswithinits36,000hectares, and January/February. Novemberdays of visibility, between high round, butatits most diveable, withmany thewater iscold year-the Atlanticseaboard, visibility tends Inthewest,along tobehighest. shoreline isfromMay when to September, Garden Route have divingschools. Elizabeth, andmanyresort townsalongthe coastnearPortsites Cape off theEastern and sometimeswhalesharks.There are several tiful coralreefs dolphins andthechance tosee some excellentwarm-water divingwithbeau- –there’sparticularly aroundSodwanaBay area northcoastwhere is theKwaZulu-Natal – and giantkelp forests. Totheeast,main Peninsula,Cape knownforitsmanywrecks To thewest,maindive sites are aroundthe Diving 790 5611;www.doorway.co.za/kayak/recskasa) the Coastal Kayak Intrapid Rafting tures Unite January include toApril.Goodcontacts best months inmostareas fromDecember/ the Greater StLuciaWetlandPark ( p513 ). Park ( p464 ). There’s at someserene canoeing AugrabiesFallsespecially through National andtheOrangein theWestern River, Cape; ( p452 ) andWildernessNationalPark ( p453 ) province; thewaterways aroundWilderness Blyde andSabieRivers, bothinMpumalanga andrafting.Popularonesincludethe noeing that doflowyear-round offer rewarding ca- &Rafting Kayaking Canoeing, South Africahasfew major rivers, buttheones KwaZulu-Natal Northern Kruger NationalPark Peninsula &WestCoast Cape 580 about 120kmtothenorth. seabird-watching, asisWestCoastNationalPark ( p457 ), within Table MountainNationalPark ( p419 ), isexcellentfor For sea kayaking, try the Cape Town–based Town–based kayaking,trytheCape For sea The besttimetodive the KwaZulu-Natal rain-dependent, withthe ishighly Rafting Sea Kayaking Association ofSouthAfrica Association Kayaking Sea

( ( % SOUTH AFRICA DIRECTORY •• Activities ••Activities SOUTH AFRICADIRECTORY % 021-425 5181;www.felixunite.com) 013-751 1693;www.hardyventure.com)

( %

( % 021-439 1134;www.kayak.co.za) 021-461 4918). Oneofthecontinent’sbestareas Mkhuze Game Reserve Reserve Game Mkhuze CapeofGoodHope, , . Hardy Ven- ( %

and and Felix 021- definite elementof risk inthesport,sowhen local hiking clubs, contact local hikingclubs,contact Forest Regionauthorities.Tofindoutabout ( trails are administered bythe Elsewhere, mosttrails inKwaZulu-Natal. % on yourown. suggested routes, andit’suptoyousurvive hiking only.Littleinformationisavailable on erberg WildernessArea ( p457 ), have off-trail group of atleastthree. and wildernessareas require hikers tobeina on thematanyonetime. Mostlonger trails have limitsastohowmanyhikers canbe all mustbebooked wellinadvance. Many huts withelectricityandrunningwater –and accommodation –fromcampingtosimple ability.Sometrailshave tosuitevery enough excellent system of well-marked trailsvaried South Africaiswonderfulforhiking,withan Hiking along thecoast. that advanceddivers canfindchallenges all currents andoften windyconditionsmean for somesites tothesouthandwest.Strong wetsuit formanydivingsites, andadrysuit at leasta5mm youwillneed be sufficient), the warmermonths (whena3mmwetsuitwill carefully before signingup. hunting for operators, check their credentials and venturevillage.co.za) sort yououtinclude carpment inMpumalanga. Operators who can TownandalongtheDrakensbergCape Es- Places where youcangive things a tryinclude jumping. hiking, swimmingandsomeserious Kloofing (orcanyoning),isamixof climbing, Kloofing (Canyoning) March toOctober. extremes of wetandheat.Thebesttimeis tobepreparedyou’ll need insummerfor Drakensberg. Peninsulathe Cape Pointandthe nearCape advance arrangements. Primeareas include are possible almosteverywhere andrequire no ( % % Hiking ispossibleyear-round, although Shorter hikes, fromanhouruptoafullday, With theexceptionof during SodwanaBay KwaZulu-Natal Nature Conservation Conservation Nature KwaZulu-Natal Designated wildernessareas, such asCed- 033-845 1000;www.kznwildlife.com) 012-428 9111;www.sanparks.org) 083-535 4538;www.hiking-south-africa.info) Abseil Africa ,

Day Trippers (www.abseilafrica.co.za). Adventure World Adventure

(www.daytrippers.co.za) Hiking SouthAfrica Hiking lonelyplanet.com orthevarious controls most SAN Parks Board (KZN Wildlife; (KZN There’s a

.

(www.ad

lonelyplanet.com Africa and Lesotho ( Africa and Lesotho p522 ); Citrusdal ( p458 ), down) Sani Pass, South ontheborderbetween overnight anddaytrails; therideup(and ( the DeHoopNature Reserve p446 ), with Africa. Somesuggestions toget youstarted: There are trailsalmosteverywhere inSouth Mountain Biking Trail Whale Hiking over themountain,andultimately alongthestunninglybeautifulAtlantic CoasttoCape Point. series ofthree youfromCityBowl trails(onenowopen,theothertwotoopensoon)thattake Tiskma Trail Tsitsikamma Kdsik Trail Kodaspiek scenery alongthebanksofOrange River. are given inthroughoutthechapter. more contacts; Following are details trailsandtheirbooking someofSouthAfrica’s tophiking SOUTH AFRICA’STOPHIKES Klipspringer Trail Hiking CapeNorthern guided walks. Park National Kruger Up to2½daysintheBlydeRiver Canyon area. Blyde River Canyon Trail Hiking Mpumalanga in theverdant Soutpansberg Range. Trail Hanglip Limpopo Cup Giant’s KwaZulu-Natal Trail Rhebok Hiking Free State Garden Route Trail Otter Eastern Cape Trails Hoerikwaggo Cape Peninsula &Western Cape Lucia parksandreserves. There St are andLake Mkhuze alsowildernesstrailsandguidedwalksinHluhluwe-Imfolozi, rarely out). booked through theforests, intheopposite Trailbuthiked paralleltotheOtter direction (thistrailis inseason. opportunities in DeHoopNature withtheaddedbonusofwhale-watching Reserve, mountain desert landscapes. mountain desert Highlands NationalPark.Highlands 48; A Parks; SAN ( p468;

52; Z Wildlife; KZN ( p522;

54; oaiad Eco-Tourism; Komatiland ( p574; SOUTH AFRICA DIRECTORY ••Activities SOUTHAFRICADIRECTORY (note out). thatthistrailisnearlyalwaysbooked (Richtersveld NationalPark;(Richtersveld

(De Hoop Nature Reserve; (De HoopNature Reserve; ( p468 ; Forestry Department; ( p427 ; Table MountainNationalPark; ( p565 ; SANParks;

( p531;

( p464 ; AugrabiesFalls NationalPark; %

SAN Parks; 012- 4289111;www.sanparks.org) % 033-845 1000) ( p536 ; MpumalangaParks Board; % % % 012-428 9111;www.sanparks.org) % % 013-754 2724; www.komatiecotourism.co.za) U 013-754 2724;www.komatiecotourism.co.za) 012-428 9111;www.sanparks.org) 027-831 1506) 028-425 5020) % Uptofive daysinthesouthernDrakensberg. 042-281 1712) Mountain Bike Mountain Bike South Africa of anunofficial nationalhub. of Townissomething selection trails.Cape ( p453 ) andsurroundingarea, withagood derberg Wildernessarea ( p457 ); andKnysna with anetworkof trails;thearea aroundCe- Useful sources of information include % 021-465 8515;www.hoerikwagotrails.co.za) % Twodayswanderingamidincredible Five alongthecoastline daysofhiking 054-452 9200)T Five daysonthecoastalong A five-day hike runninginland hike Afive-day % 013-759 5432;[email protected]) TwodaysinGoldenGate Wildernesstrailsand hree daysofstunning (www.mtbsa.co.za) p totwodays

and A

581 SOUTH AFRICA AFRICA SOUTH SOUTH AFRICA South Africa’smainsurfmagazine. .rocrope.com) Bay shoreline, Cape Bay especiallybetween 582 wildlife watching inSouthAfrica tends tobe forexample), region (Botswana andZambia, In comparisonwith othercountriesinthe are oneof thecountry’s biggest attractions. South Africa’spopulations of large animals Watching Wildlife further outtosea. they reach Durban,they’re often considerably bythetime coast,although KwaZulu-Natal continue whales The their progress andupthe aroundtheCape Bays. (p456) tenberg ( southeast;andMossel Bay p450 ) andPlet- Point andMuizenberg, andfromGordon’s annual WhaleFestival. country, complete withawhalecrierandan is theunofficialwhale-watching of capital the where whalescometocalve southernright – Bryde’s andkillerwhales.Hermanus ( p444 ) – November, withoccasionalspottingsalsoof offshoreregularly June/Julyand between seen andhumpbackwhalesareSouthern right togooutinaboat. land, withoutneeding gracefulgiantsfrom these best spotstosight South Africaisconsidered oneof theworld’s Whale-Watching .wavescape.co.za, and about ApriltoJuly). ern coastsisautumnandearlywinter (from of theyearforsurfingsouthernandeast- from PortAlfred northwards.Thebesttime coast Cape particularly alongtheEastern but SouthAfricaoffers myriadalternatives, Most surfers willhave heardof Jeffrey’s Bay, Surfing www.mcsa.org.za) Mountain ClubofSouthAfrica For informationonregional the clubs,contact of manyotherclimbingandbouldering sites. work Drakensberg. The facesof theKwaZulu-Natal the close-to-sheer Some of themostchallenging climbingison Rock Climbing mountain-biking magazine. The bimonthly e-zine SouthAfrica Mountain Bike For more informationcheck outwww Other favoured spotsincludetheFalse

(www.saclimb.co.za) SOUTH AFRICA DIRECTORY ••Books SOUTH AFRICADIRECTORY is another useful contact. isanotheruseful . Roc-n-Rope Ride South African ClimbingInfoNet- South African isthemainSouthAfrican haslistingsandphotos Zig Zag

( (MCSA;

%

013-257 0363;www (www.zigzag.co.za) (www.mtb.org.za)

% 021-465 3412; , . their culture. Sanpeopleand accountingofSouthernAfrica’s intriguing The WildAlmondLine The AllMyLife FollowedMe Have Strikes No Future WithoutForgiveness Indaba, MyChildren Bushman the African &Mythsof Customs oftheHunter: Heart The Country ofmySkull tothe1993Elections Age Stone ofLesothofromtheLate History A Short yourself inregional life andculture. fiction andnonfiction–tobeginimmersing Following isalistingof somebooks–amixof BOOKS aluxuryexperienceinthebush. seeking there are plentyof pricierchoices forthose It isalsocomparatively inexpensive, although accommodation forallcategories of traveller. very accessible,withgoodroadsandexcellent .co.za) Afrikaans, Xhosa. Afrikaans, .co.za) Town Cape Interlink the following: ZuluandAfrikaans,including learning Xhosa, There are numerouslanguage schools for Language COURSES (www.tinytourists.com) Town-based chase, trytheCape things out,andforequipmentrental orpur- of offers Forsomehelpsorting forassistance. to children, andyoushould have noshortage MostSouthAfricansaresetting. welcoming travellers of allages inagenerally hazard-free parks,itoffersamusement plentytodofor collection of andahandfulof museums ming poolsandhikingtrails,plusagood abundance of nationalparks,beaches, swim- tion ifyou’re travelling withchildren. Withits destina- South Africaisaneminentlysuitable CHILDREN army. intheapartheid-era being aconscript A memoirofgrowingupinasegregated countryand compendium oftraditionalmythologyandfolktales. struggle againstdominationandinjustice. recounting ofonewoman’s –Apowerful Mashinini chairman. Commissionbyits work oftheTruth&Reconciliation chroniclingofthe Another, somewhatmore hope-filled, and readable historyofthe MountainKingdom. Commission by a prominent Afrikaaner journalist. Commission byaprominentAfrikaaner oftheTruth&Reconciliation recounting ofthehearings . by Credo Mutwa –Anexcellent byCredo Mutwa by AntjieKrog–Awrenching ( byLaurens vanderPost –An % by Larry Schwartz – byLarrySchwartz 021-439 9834; www.interlink

by StephenJGill–Aconcise byDesmondTutu – lonelyplanet.com byEmma Tiny Tourists

ivory isnotpermitted. export of protected animalproductssuch as Knowledge; 870; Private Bag X923, Pretoria 0001) BagX923,Pretoria 870; Private /department/default.asp?dept=zuludund; Durban)Zulu. /department/default.asp?dept=zuludund; Xhosa. 3585; www.languageteachingcentre.co.za) Afrikaans, courses inbothStellenboschandCapeTown. BasedinStellenbosch,andruns wineacademy.co.za) Zulu. http://slls.uiplay.co.za/index.aspx?Action=AFL) University ofNatal University Language Teaching Town Cape Centre lonelyplanet.com including thefollowing: the risksby followingbasic safety precautions, No matter where youare, youcanminimise system hashadaproblemwith violentcrime. ofsections Jo’burg, andthecity’smetro train are muggings Daylight common incertain some townshipareas andotherurbancentres. without incident. the majority of travellers visitthecountry despite andnewspaper headlines, thestatistics keep thingsinperspective, andremember that you’ll faceinSouthAfrica. tryto However, from caraccidents,it’sthemajor riskthat and,apart Crime isthenational obsession DANGERS &ANNOYANCES &Excise ment ofCustoms duties. Formore the contact details, of souvenirs intoSouthAfricawithoutpaying wine, 400cigarettes anduptoUS$165worth You’re permitted tobring1Lof spirits,2Lof CUSTOMS courses. wine-tasting Runs DixonSt,Waterkant) CapeQuarter, .thenose.co.za; Nose WineBar WineAcademy Cape contacts: Some useful Wine Tasting visits inotherpartsof thecountry. but theorganisation canalsosortouttours and ThemainfocusisSoweto, a three-night stay. Costs vary,butaverage US$80perperson for daily of instructioninanAfricanlanguage. or ruralarea whilereceiving anhourorso arrangementa homestay ineitheratownship ‘immersionganises visits’inwhich youlive in Africa’s surfaceis ifyouwanttogetA goodcontact belowSouth oftheWitwatersrand University The risksare inJo’burg, highest followed by % 011-487 1798;www.phaphama.org) Mp pp424-5; (Map SOUTH AFRICA DIRECTORY ••Customs SOUTHAFRICADIRECTORY ( % ( TALK % 031-260 2510;www.nu.ac.za 021-889 8844;www.cape ( (Transfer of African Language ofAfrican (Transfer % % 012-422 4000,0800002 . Theimportand 021-425 2200;www ( % 011-717 4245; ( % 021-425 . Itor- Depart- .com; 15 Sussex Dr, Ottawa, Ontario K1M1M8) Ontario .com; 15SussexDr,Ottawa, Tiergartenstrasse 18,Berlin10785) Pl, Yarralumla, 2600) CanberraACT in NewYork, ChicagoandLosAngeles. sachusetts Ave NW, Washington DC20008) Also consulates South Africa House,TrafalgarSq,LondonWC2N 5DP) South Africa 29 QueensRd,Gaborone) Dublin 2) Tce, Centre, Earlsfort 2nd fl,AlexandraHouse,Earlsfort see thatentry. Wassenaarseweg 40,theHague2596CJ) Windhoek -1200) Ave, St&NelsonMandela RSA House,cnrJanJonker .co.mz; Avenida EduardoMondlane41,Maputo)

Kang’ombe House, Robert Mugabe Cres, Lilongwe) Mugabe House,Robert Kang’ombe USA UK New Zealand Netherlands Namibia Mozambique Malawi Kenya Israel Ireland Germany France Canada Botswana Australia .gov.za/foreign/sa_abroad/index.htm. www.dfa the following.Forafulllistingsee Diplomatic representations abroad include Embassies&Consulates South African EMBASSIES &CONSULATES Roshanmaer Place,Lenana Rd,Nairobi) Tower, 50DizengoffSt,64332,Tel Aviv) d’Orsay, 75343Paris, Cedex07)     One of thegreatest dangers duringmug- If you’re goingtovisitatownship–and Avoid areas deserted and dayandnight, Listen tolocaladviceonunsafe areas. ( that you will fight back. that youwillfight resist orgive themanyreason tothink if youget achance. calm,anddon’t Stay you are armed,andthatyouwillkillthem willassumethat is thatyourassailants especiallyinJo’burg, gings orcarjackings, trusted guideoraspartof atour. of yourvisittoSouthAfrica –gowitha beoneofit willcertainly thehighlights weekends. district areas of larger and citiesatnight especially avoid thecommercialbusiness ( % % ( ( ( % ( ( % 020-7451 7299; www.southafricahouse.com; 020-7451 7299;www.southafricahouse.com; ( % ( % % % 202-232 4400;www.saembassy.org; 3051Mas- ( ( % % % 03-525 2566;www.safis.co.il; 16thfl,Top ( 020-282 7100; [email protected]; 020-282 7100;[email protected]; % 01 53 59 23 23; www.afriquesud.net; 59Quai 01 53592323;www.afriquesud.net; 01-661 5553;[email protected]; 01-773 722; [email protected]; 3rdfl, 01-773 722;[email protected]; 613-744 0330;www.southafrica-canada ( ( Representation accredited Representation fromAustralia, 061-205 7111; [email protected]; 061-205 7111;[email protected]; % 02-6273 2424; www.sahc.org.au; Rhodes Rhodes 02-6273 2424;www.sahc.org.au; 030-22 0730; www.suedafrika.org; 030-22 0730;www.suedafrika.org; % 390 4800; [email protected]; 390 4800;[email protected]; 70-392 4501; www.southafrica.nl; 70-392 4501;www.southafrica.nl; 01-490059, 491614;sahc@tropical

583 SOUTH AFRICA AFRICA SOUTH SOUTH AFRICA fl, Westguard House, cnr West & Gardiner Sts) fl, WestguardHouse,cnrWest&Gardiner 191 JanSmutsAve, Rosebank) pp542-3; % Muckleneuk); St,New 250Melk 1600; [email protected]; 3000; 19th fl, House, 22 Riebeeck St) House,22Riebeeck 3000; 19thfl,Safmarine .co.za); .co.za); 8977; 180BlackwoodSt;germanembassypretoria@gonet in Cape Town 5062; 1stfl,SouthernLife Plaza,1059SchoemanSt); Town % Braamfontein) in Jo’burg % Durban 426 2944;3rdfl,Castle Bldg, 45CastleSt); Jeppe St); Jeppe Jo’burg % Mozambique Lesotho Ireland Germany France CityBowl) Mall, St George’s pp428-9; 1103 ArcadiaSt,Hatfield); % Canada Botswana Australia 9amandnoon. usually between services, most are openinthemorningsonlyforvisa more embassies andconsulates; important forotherAfricancountries. hunting forvisas Jo’burg andinDurban. consulatesSome countriesalsomaintain in sessions). Town’sparliamentary during Cape Town (which embassy becomestheofficial Pretoria, withanoffice orconsulate inCape Most countrieshave theirmainembassyin inSouthAfrica Embassies &Consulates Zimbabwe 584 7 ElcombeSt,Belgravia,Harare) tralia.co.za; 292 Orient St,Arcadia,Pretoria) tralia.co.za; 292Orient 122 De Korte St,Braamfontein) 122 DeKorte p547; (Map Life St,CityBowl); Centre, 8Riebeeck 2089; 43Brown St) West St); The followinglistincludessomeof the South Africaisagoldminefortravellers 021-423 1575;2DeanSt); 012-430 9640;24AmosSt,Colbyn) 012-460 7648; 391 Anderson St, Menlo Park)012-460 7648;391AndersonSt,Menlo 012-401 0300;529EdmondSt,Arcadia); 012- 4223000;www.dfait-maeci.gc.ca/southafrica/; (Map (Map pp428-9 ; (Map (Map pp502-3 ; (Map (Map pp542-3 ; Consulate inCape Town

SOUTH AFRICA DIRECTORY ••Festivals &Events SOUTH AFRICADIRECTORY

Embassy inPretoria

Embassy inPretoria (

High CommissioninPretoriaHigh % % Consulate inNelspruit Consulate in Cape Town High CommissioninPretoriaHigh % (Map (Map pp554-5 ;

Embassy inPretoria

( % ( High CommissioninPretoriaHigh % % 011-778 5600;3rdfl,StandardBankBldg, 021-423 5240; 19th fl, Reserve BankBldg,60 021-423 5240;19thfl,Reserve Consulate inCape Town Consulate inDurban 011-339 3653;76JutaSt,IndentHouse,

High CommissioninPretoriaHigh 011-403 3748;2ndfl,Future BankBldg, 021-423 0431; 54 Keerom St,CityBowl) 021-423 0431;54Keerom 04-753147; [email protected]; 04-753147; [email protected]; % % % 021-421 1045;4thfl,Southern (Map pp554-5 ; (Map (Map pp554-5 ; Consulate inCape Town % 031-304 0200;Room520, 320 011-327 2938,3272944;252 (Map (Map pp554-5 ; (Map (Map p533 ; Mp pp428-9; (Map Consulate inJo’burg 012-342 3740;www.aus (Map (Map pp428-9 ; ( % (Map (Map pp554-5 ; (Map (Map pp428-9 ; (Map (Map pp554-5 ; Consulate inJo’burg Mp pp554-5; (Map 031-307 2168;2nd ; Consulate inCape % (Map (Map pp554-5 ; % % Consulate in Consulate in % % 012-342 013-753 012-425 % (Map (Map Consulate (Map (Map 012-427 021-405 Consulate 021-

pp502-3; St,CityBowl); Centre, 8Riebeeck Cape Town St,Arcadia); 255Hill 7500; [email protected]; in Jo’burg Centre, Foreshore);4th fl,BroadwayIndustries 4737; 29thfl,DurbanBayHouse,333SmithSt) in the second week of March, thisspinaround theCape in thesecond weekofMarch, February at theWaterfront. It’sfollowed byaJazzathon costumes andgeneralrevelry. songanddanceparades,colourful 1–2 January,withribald isheld Carnival) CapeTown’slongest-runningstreet party Arcadia,Pretoria) Hatfield Gardens, 100 StrandSt,CityBowl) Consulate inCape Town 825ArcadiaSt); 344 3910;www.dutchembassy.co.za; Zimbabwe USA UK Swaziland New Zealand Netherlands Pretoria) [email protected]; 197BlackwoodSt,Arcadia, Namibia Cape Argus CycleTour Argus Cape Festival Kavadi TownNewYearCape Karnival January the country. .southafrica.net) tination chapters. thedes- see in thecountry.Forotherevents, there’s always somethinggoingonsomewhere South Africahosts dozensof festivals, and FESTIVALS &EVENTS Consulate inJo’burg Cape Town % March asasignofdevotion. piercing ofthebodywith skewers It’saccompaniedbythe godMuruga. honour oftheHindu in Durban,in annually (January–February andApril–May) Killarney); Consulate inCape Town St,Arcadia) http://pretoria.usembassy.gov; 877Pretorius 6th fl, Braamfontein Centre, 23 Jorissen St) 6th fl,BraamfonteinCentre, 23Jorissen Consulate inJo’burg % 20 AndersonSt)

High CommissioninPretoriaHigh 012-342 5125; 798 Merton Ave, Arcadia); 012-342 5125;798Merton 012-344 1910;715GovernmentAve, Arcadia);

Embassy inPretoria Mp pp542-3; (Map % Mp pp428-9; (Map ( Mp pp554-5; (Map Consulate inDurban %

High CommissioninPretoriaHigh High Commission inPretoriaHigh 031-305 3041; 22 Gardner St) 031-305 3041;22Gardner

Embassy inPretoria (Map (Map pp554-5 ; also haslistingsof festivals around 021-461 4710;55KuyperSt,Zonnebloem); The major Hindu festival, heldtwice ThemajorHindu (Map (Map p547 ; Mp p547; (Map (Map (Map pp428-9 ; (Map (Map pp416-17 ; (Map (Map pp554-5 ; South Africa Tourism SouthAfrica % (www.cycletour.co.za) Held % % (Map (Map pp502-3 ; 011-646 6900; 1 River St, 011-646 6900;1River 012-481 9100; (Map (Map pp554-5 ; 021-425 3670;SouthernLife % % % (Map (Map pp554-5 ; Consulate inDurban (Cape Town Minstrel (CapeTownMinstrel 403 7372,2036; 011-838 2156;17thfl, 012-342 8656;BlockC, % (Map (Map pp554-5 ; lonelyplanet.com (Map (Map pp554-5 ; % % 021-421 5660; Consulate in 012-431 4000; 021-421 4280; % % Consulate in Consulate % 031-304 012-421

(Map (Map (www 012- ; April April. late March/early ofallraces;heldinOudtshoorn(WesternCape) speakers this festival thataimstoseekunitybetweenAfrikaans at EnjoyallthingsAfrikaans 203 8600;[email protected]) November (Eastern Cape). festival, heldannuallyinearlyJulyatGrahamstown arts creative pulseatthecountry’slargest with SouthAfrica’s Absa Klein Karoo National Arts Festival NationalArts Absa KleinKaroo 30,000 entries. Peninsula isthelargestbicycleraceinworld,with over lonelyplanet.com at popular borderposts. andyou’ll likelyflights, encounter longqueues ondomesticandinternational up, asdoseats of holidayperiods, publictransportfills these prices are Atthe beginningandend ineffect. tourist areas isfullybooked andpeak-season accommodationinnationalparks and close, break.the Easter Many shopsandbusinesses December–January school holidaysaswell South Africa’smajor holidayperiodsare the School Holidays Day ofGoodwill Day Christmas Day ofReconciliation Day Heritage Women’s Day Youth Day Day Workers’ Day Constitution orFreedom Family Day Monday Easter Sunday Easter Good Friday Day Human Rights New Year’s Day HOLIDAYS Diwali Festival National Arts FestivalSplashy Fen Music Rustler’sValley, Free State. lifestyle sort. loversofevery that’sanannualhighlightforalternative Easter weekend heldaround .rustlers.co.za) Anoff-beatmusic-centred party Rustler’s Valley OneWorldUnityParty July foothills ofthesouthernDrakensberg. Splashy Fen Farm, ofUnderberginthe about20kmnorth at heldinlateApril Rock, popandjazzwithafringe; of Lights. The Durban Indian community’s three-day Festival TheDurbanIndiancommunity’sthree-day 16 June 17 April March/April 1 May 24 September 9 August March/April 25 December March/April 1 January 26 December SOUTH AFRICA DIRECTORY ••Holidays SOUTHAFRICADIRECTORY 21 March 16 December (www.nafest.co.za) Get intouch (www.nafest.co.za) Get (www.splashyfen.co.za) 27 April (www ( % 044- you planonhikingthere –are available from pensive thanEurope andNorth America. South Africaisstill lessex- swing, although in recent years, andis currently ontheup- accept them. arenote andsomebusinesses reluctant to R200. There have forgeries been of theR200 R5. Thenotes are R10,R20,R50,R100and two, five, 10,20and50cents, andR1,R2 market forthecurrency. Thecoinsare one, is dividedinto100cents.There isnoblack South Africa’scurrency istherand(R),which MONEY p580). (see NatureKwaZulu-Natal Conservation Park, Jo’burg). Park10 Rembrandt Plaza,cnrLister&HeineRds,Rembrandt Unlimited Maps mended. Government mapsare available from recom-trails, atopographicalmapishighly will behelpful. of that stock agoodselection road atlases bookstores intheCNAchain alsousually Town,DurbanandJo’burg. Manyin Cape is country. Agoodplacetolookforanyof these of(AASA) series mapscovering theentire the AutomobileAssociation of SouthAfrica Map Studio’s Some goodcountrymapstolookforare MAPS able toprovide thecable). and/or broadband(forwhich theyshouldbe hour. Mosttophotels have wireless access town. Costsaverage US$1.40toUS$4per and there are internet major cafés inevery Africa. Many hostels offer emailfacilities, Internet accessiswidelyavailable inSouth ACCESS INTERNET /calendar.htm. www.saschools.co.za/sasFor exactdates, see October; andearlyDecembertomid-January. late toearly Junetomid-July;late September is); April (varying,dependingwhenEaster They are approximately late March toearly creased, butnotbyasmuch. times, accommodationpricesare often in- holidays, butnotasintense. Duringthese Map Studio Map The valueof therand hasfluctuated wildly For anyhikingdoneawayfromestablished The provinces theirschool stagger holidays. The situationissimilarduringotherschool Drakensberg if maps–essential

(www.mapstudio.co.za)

( Tourist Map % 011-882 1741; www.mapoffice.co.za; 011-882 1741;www.mapoffice.co.za; (1:2,500,000)and , withbranches

585 SOUTH AFRICA AFRICA SOUTH SOUTH AFRICA travellers cheques or andcash,plusaVisa lars, eurosorBritish poundsinamixture of major cities. as Postnet. Poste restante isavailable inall such using oneof theprivate mailservices, day. Formailing anything of valueconsider Monday toFriday and8amtonoonSatur- arePost offices openfrom8.30amto4.30pm POST around 10%to15%isusualintourist areas. Wages are low,andtipping isexpected; Tipping rand whenyouleave. toreconvert these ceipts asyou’llneed leftover cheques withoutfees. bank. Renniesalsochanges othertravellers usually get rate of ahigher exchange froma for itsowntravellers cheques, you’ll though in major cities.Neither charges acommission cies, andthere are AmericanExpress offices Rennies Travel, alarge chain of travel agen- cheques. it worksoutbestintheendtobuyUSdollar Cook hastravellers cheques inrand,though Nedbank are associated Thomas withVisa. can Express, and andFirst NationalBank sions. Nedbankisassociated withAmeri- in major currencies withvaryingcommis- in allmajor cities. ally thebest)andforeign-exchange bureaus are Bank tional, NedbankandStandard usu- isreadilyCash exchanged atbanks(First Na- Moneychangers branches across thecountry. isaMasterCardard Bank agent –bothhave agent Visa Nedbank isanofficial andStand- atmanyATMsbe used forcashadvances. especially MasterCard andcanalso andVisa, areThese widelyaccepted inSouthAfrica, Cards Credit cards belongingtotheCirrusnetwork. most of which give cash advancesagainst There are ATMs inallcitiesSouthAfrica, ATMs ATMs. MasterCard forwithdrawingmoneyfrom 586 Most bankschange travellers cheques The bestcurrencies tobringare USdol- The ThomasCookagent inSouthAfricais Keep atleastsome of yourexchange re- SOUTH AFRICA DIRECTORY ••Post SOUTH AFRICADIRECTORY with news of andlinks. upcoming events free), prefixesbers. These include: South Africaonly)followedbysix-digitnum- four-digit nationwideprefixes within (foruse the telephone number. There are alsoseveral given of atthestart orwith each section, town.SouthAfricanareasame codesare must alwaysbedialled,unlessyouare inthe digits, includingthelocalarea code,which number. code (withouttheinitialzero)andtelephone % an international callfromSouthAfrica,dial South Africa’scountrycodeis PHONE CODES dial and 8amMonday.Forreverse-charge calls, 8pmFriday andbetween 8pm onweekdays, phones. International callsare cheaper after for yourcall,butatdoubletherate of public private phone centres where you canpaycash Phonecards are widelyavailable. There are also US$0.90 perminute toEurope)canbepricey. per minute) andinternational calls(from calls(fromaboutUS$0.30 tic long-distance US$0.10 forthree minutes), whereas domes- Local callsare relatively inexpensive (about South Africahasgoodtelephone facilities. TELEPHONE www.southafrica.net) Tourism South African The maingovernment tourismorganisation is TOURIST INFORMATION C). (Cell % mobile networks. pay-as-you-go SIMcardfromoneof thethree alocal prepaidit’s compatible),andinsert or yourownphone(check aheadthat is touse about US$0.40perminute. Aneasyalternative relatively inexpensive, butcallcharges average C Cell dacom GSM system. digital the country,andnetworkoperates onthe The mobile-phonenetworkcovers mostof MOBILE PHONES % The maincodesformobile phonesare Telephone numbers inSouthAfricaare 10 The three major mobile networks are 082 (Vodacom), 09, followedbythecountrycode,localarea 0861 (flat-rate calls). %

(www.cellc.co.za)

% (www.vodacom.co.za) 0900. 0860 (charged asalocalcall),and , which hasahelpful website . Hiringamobile phone is %

( % 083 (MTN) and , 011-895 3000,083-1236789; MTN

(www.mtn.co.za) (www.mtn.co.za) lonelyplanet.com % % 27. Tomake 0800 (toll % and 084 Vo- www.ectb.co.za) 2657; www.northerncape.org.za) rely oncommissions (5%is usually builtinto aretourist office. These private entities,and towninthecountryhasatleastone every almost varying quality.Inadditiontothese, there are provincial tourismorganisations, of lonelyplanet.com These aren’tThese issuedatthe borders, andmustbe toget (alsofree)need avisa before youarrive. are ofThese validforastay upto90days. be issuedwithafree entrypermitonarrival. and theUSAdon’trequire Instead, you’ll visas. UK), mostWestern Europeancountries,Japan wealth countries(includingAustralia andthe Visitors onholiday from mostCommon- VISAS South Africa Disabilitiesin tional CouncilforPersons withPhysical mobility impaired atallitsparks. commodation andtrailaccessibilityforthe ofexcellent andinspirationaloverview ac- SAN Parks whoareto those mobility impaired orblind. ever-expanding networkof facilitiescatering travellers,the continentfordisabled withan South Africa isoneof thebestdestinationson TRAVELLERS WITHDISABILITIES Board Tourism Cape Western Authority Tourism Cape Northern ( Board Parks &Tourism Province North-West www.mpumalanga.com) Authority Mpumalanga Tourism Board Limpopo Tourism Authority Tourism KwaZulu-Natal www.gauteng.net) Authority Tourism Gauteng Board Tourism State Free Board Tourism Cape Eastern following: thathaveations (iethose paidup). of memberorganis- recommend theservices be aware thatmanytouristoffices willonly their hotel rates) fortheirexistence. Also, .co.za) www.tourismcapetown.co.za) 7500; www.kzn.org.za) 730; www.golimpopo.com) .dteea.fs.gov.za) % For more onindividualprovinces, details If youaren’t entitledtoanentry permit,you’ll Provincial touristoffices includethe Another helpful initial contact isthe Another helpfulinitialcontact 018-397 1500,2931611;www.tourismnorthwest

( %

( % 012-428 9111;www.sanparks.org) 011-726 8040;www.ncppdsa.co.za). TRANSPORT IN SOUTH AFRICA •• Getting There &Away INSOUTHAFRICA••Getting TRANSPORT ( % ( % ( ( 015-295 8262,0860-730 % ( % % 051-447 1362;www ( 011-832 2780; 043-701 9600; % ( ( 021-426 5639; % % 013-752 7001; 053-832 031-366 has an

Na- the entire surrounding region, is The major airhubforSouth Africa,andfor AIRPORTS &AIRLINES Air should consider(see p766 ). are there mandatory,although are someyou against yellowfever. No othervaccinations have aninternational vaccinationcertificate Africa)orSouthAmerica,youmust Central Africa (which includesmostof Westand East, travelling theyellow-fever through zonein tobeacceptable. seems an airticket, anoverland though ticket also quired toshow anonwardticket –preferably enter. Travellers arrivingbyairare often re- andhassle-freeAfrica isstraightforward to Once youhave South anentrypermitorvisa, SouthAfrica Entering THERE&AWAY GETTING AFRICA INSOUTH TRANSPORT try; processingusuallytakes onemonth. can embassyorconsulate inyourhomecoun- theSouthAfri- shouldbemadethrough these togetneeds aworkpermit.Applicationsfor coming toSouthAfricadovolunteer work opportunitiesinthecountry. volunteer .volunteerabroad.com) is A goodinitialcontact interested inteaching orwildlife conservation. workispossible,especiallyifyou’reVolunteer VOLUNTEERING Durban, Jo’burg andPretoria. -affairs.pwv.gov.za) at the sions, andforre-entry shouldbemade visas, orentry-permitexten-Applications forvisa VISA EXTENSIONS lists thenationalitiesthatrequire visas. .com) mission inLondon(www.southafricahouse The website of Com- theSouthAfricanHigh most countries;forapartiallistingsee p583 . South Africahasconsularrepresentation in forprocessing. late. weeks Allowuptoseveral ataSouthAfricanembassyorconsu- obtained If you’re comingtoSouthAfricaafter Unless youhave aUKpassport,anyone

has an overview of requirements,has anoverview visa and Department ofHomeAffairs Department , with branches in Cape Town, , withbranches inCape , withextensive listingsof Volunteer Abroad Volunteer

(http://home OR Tambo

(www

587 SOUTH AFRICA AFRICA SOUTH SOUTH AFRICA % www.saexpress.co.za) National Park. Singapore Changi Airport. Also serves CapeTown. Also serves Singapore ChangiAirport. Town. Cape Amsterdam.Alsoserves .com) Hub:SchipholAirport, ( Heathrow Airport, London. Also serves CapeTown. London.Alsoserves Heathrow Airport, pacific.com) Hub:HongKongInternationalAirport. ( -atlantic.com) Hub: London. Also serves Cape Town. -atlantic.com) Hub:London. Alsoserves Atlantic Virgin Airlines Singapore Qantas Lufthansa KLM Airways Kenya Airlines Emirates Egyptair Pacific Cathay Airways British Air France to/from Jo’burg (exceptasnoted): .co.za) Airlink African togetherflights withitssubsidiaries international routes, itoperates regional work andsafety record. Inadditiontoits national airline,withanexcellentroute net- 359 722,011-9785313;www.flysaa.com; hubJIA) .kmiairport.co.za) Airport International regional asdoes flights, mobile-phone andcar-rental outlets. gateway. Ithasaforeximportant bureau, and from Europe,andisbecominganincreasingly 1200; www.airports.co.za) and car-rental outlets. foreign-exchange bureaus andmobile-phone of shops,restaurants, internet access, ATMs, Johannesburg International. Ithasafullrange worldairportguides.com/johannesburg-jnb) Airport International 588 www.egyptair.com.eg) Hub:CairoInternationalAirport. Hub: Charles de Gaulle Airport, Paris. Airport, Hub: CharlesdeGaulle Hub: Kingsford Smith Airport, Sydney. SmithAirport, Hub: Kingsford .emirates.com) Hub:DubaiInternationalAirport. serves CapeTown. serves Also InternationalAirport. Hub:Frankfurt .lufthansa.com) tional Airport, Nairobi. tional Airport, Interna- Hub:JomoKenyatta www.kenya-airways.com) % % 031-451 6758;www.airports.co.za) South African Airways South African Some otherinternational carriers flying The smaller Airport TownInternational Cape (KL; 011-880 8560); 011-441 8600); and TRANSPORT IN SOUTH AFRICA •• Getting There &Away INSOUTHAFRICA••Getting TRANSPORT (QF; (MS; % (AF; (LH; South African Express South African % 0860-247 474,011-8819696;www.klm % (CX;

(SAAirlink; % nearNelspruitandtheKruger % 011-441 8550;www.qantas.com.au) (BA; www.britishairways.com) (BA;www.britishairways.com) (VS; (VS; (KQ; Durban International Airport Durban International 011-3-12 2202,011-8804126/9; (EK; Cape Town Cape Town 0860-340 340; www.airfrance.fr) 0860-340 340;www.airfrance.fr) . % (SQ;www.singaporeair.com) 0861-842 538,021-4153506;www % % receives manydirect flights (JIA orJNB; (JIA

%

011-9.500 8-120;www.cathay (MQP; 011-340 3400; www.virgin 011-881 9795,011-5718817; % (SAA; airlinecodeSA;

011-883 8420;www ( ( 011-978 5313;www.saairlink % % % Mpumalanga Kruger % 021-674 0601)Hub: 021-936 -1200)Hub: 013-753 7500;www handles several handlesseveral

011-921 6262;www. ( %

(CPT; –formerly 011-978 5577; % Jo’burg % 021-937 Jo’burg is the South (DUR;

0861-

West of Massingir (Mozambique). West ofMassingir Nelspruit andheavilytravelled. Zeerust; amainborderpost. main borderpost. South Africaandare tocross. straightforward All of landlocked borders Lesotho’s are with LESOTHO thecrossings arewise, hassle-free. completely duringperiodsof water. high Other- to2WDvehicles,passable andmaybeclosed Some of themore remote crossingsare im- Gate Skilpadshek/Pioneer Ramatlhabama Rest McCarthy’s Gate Kapfontein/Tlokweng Polokwane/Pietersburg. Grobler’s Bridge 4pm, andmanyhave longer hours. border posts.Allare 8amand openbetween There are 18officialSouthAfrica/Botswana BOTSWANA Border Crossings www.ibike.org) BicycleFundInternational sources of backgroundinformationare the own bicycleintoSouthAfrica. Twohelpful There are norestrictions onbringingyour Bicycle (8am to 4.30pm) justsouth of Kgalagadi Town;and atRietfontein/Aroab from Cape hours) northof Springbokandenroute to/ of (24 Upington; atVioolsdrif/Noordoewer atNakop/Ariamsvlei (24hours)those west South Africa/Namibiaborderposts include NAMIBIA Pafuri Kosi Bay/Pontad’Ouro Garcia Komatipoort/Ressano Giriyondo are asfollows: The SouthAfrica/Mozambique borderposts MOZAMBIQUE comingintoLesotho.evenings, and,onsomeweekend long exitingLesotho of queueshere Bloemfontein; are often very The maincrossingisatMaseru Bridge, east west ofZeerust; amainborderpost. eastern corner. well north ofDurban. well north Transfrontier Park. ( h ( h 8am-4pm) InKrugerNationalPark’s north- and 8am-4pm Oct-Mar, 8am-3pm Apr-Sep) 8am-3pmApr-Sep) 8am-4pm Oct-Mar, ( ( ( h h h SA-Cycling 6am-8pm) North of Mafikeng; a ofMafikeng; 6am-8pm) North 8am-4.30pm) NearKgalagadi 8am-6pm) Northwest of 8am-6pm) Northwest ( h (

( % 8am-4pm) Onthecoast, h ( h (

(www.sa-cycling.com) in theUSA206-7670848; h 6am-10pm) North- 6am-10pm) North of 6am-10pm) North lonelyplanet.com 6am-10pm) Eastof . tricky inwetweather.tricky road fromPiggs (Mpumalanga)and Peak toBarberton Malelane andapossibleroutetoKrugerNationalPark. Malelane from Piet isMpumalanga. Retief in KwaZulu-Natal. Durban andSwaziland’sEzulwiniValley. Oranjemund (6amto10pm)onthecoast,but There’s also aborderpostatAlexanderBay/ Rietfontein crossing. istheclosest itself; the borderatKgalagadiTransfrontierPark Transfrontier Park. It’snotpossible tocross lonelyplanet.com South Africa andallof itsneighbours. These crosstheborders between Numerous buses Bus for immigration. needed there’s nocharge forthegovernment forms gration andcustoms.Despite theirinsistence, Zimbabweimmi- trying to‘help’youthrough and payableinUSdollars only. require which are visas, available attheborder ing CommonwealthandUSpassport holders, at theborder. Mostothernationalities,includ- (free) toget it intoZimbabwebutcanobtain Limpopo Bridge. avisa SouthAfricansneed vehicles the payatollatthebordertouse can change money. border isMusina(15kmsouth),where you SouthAfricantowntothe long. Theclosest areso searches andqueuesoften thorough Limpopo River. There’s lotsof smuggling, (24hours) South AfricaisatBeitbridge Zimbabweand The onlyborderpostbetween ZIMBABWE Onverwacht/Salitje Reef Matsamo/Jeppe’s Mananga Mahamba Josefsdal/Bulembu Golela/Lavumisa include thefollowing: 360km southeastof Pretoria. Someothers Ngwenya ( (and agoodplacetopickuplifts)isatOshoek/ at4pm.Thebusiestcrossing small postsclose posts, allof which are hassle-free. Note that There are 11South Africa/Swaziland border SWAZILAND of borderposts. these arethat Namibianvisas notavailable atany public accessisusuallynotpermitted. Note Ignore thetoutsonZimbabweside When entering orleaving SouthAfrica, ( ( h h h 7am-6pm) Southwest of Komatipoort. 7am-6pm) SouthwestofKomatipoort. 7am-10pm) Thebestcrossingtouse ( 7am-10pm) approximately TRANSPORT IN SOUTH AFRICA •• Getting There &Away INSOUTHAFRICA••Getting TRANSPORT h ( ( h h 7am-10pm) Enroutebetween ( 8am-4pm) Alongtheunpaved h 8am-6pm) North ofPongola 8am-6pm) North 7am-8pm) Southwestof

on the between Francistown, nearthe border with between sible totravel the Botswanalegof thejourney There are nocross-border trains,butit’spos- TRAIN Martin’s hours). Drift (eight Jo’burgbetween andPalapye (Botswana)via (1½ hours). There are alsodirect minibuses direct over minibuses theborder toLobatse Jo’burg toMafikeng, fromwhere there are do thetripinstages, take aCityLinkbusfrom Jo’burg, departures are fromPark To Station. of themainbusterminal,at6am.In starting leaveone, these fromthenorthwestcorner Mafikeng (North-WestProvince). InGabor- and Gaborone(aboutUS$1.40,sixhours) via Jo’burg thedaybetween that runthroughout alternativefortable isoneof theminibuses hours). Acheaper butless safe andless com- toGaborone(US$20,sixruns dailybuses ( From Jo’burg/Pretoria, BUS From Botswana the nearest large town. orrepairstations togo shops;you’llneed bouring countries. a carnettovisitanyof SouthAfrica’sneigh- South African–registered vehicles don’tneed yourlocalautomobile association. through rary waiver of importduty;arrange forthis passage endouane, driving licence. a You’llalsoneed istration papers, liabilityinsuranceandyour thevehicle’smotorcycle, youwillneed reg- If you’re arriving inSouthAfricaviacaror &Motorcycle Car change vehicles ontheotherside. towalkacrosstheborderand it’s necessary Afewtaxi. routes godirect, sometimes though South Africa’sneighbours bylocalminibus of astudentID. offer studentdiscounts,uponpresentation price fortrans-border routes. Many buslines pricesareon. Visa notincludedintheticket then reboard busandcontinue yoursame totake caredisembark of formalities, visa to ally nohassles.Attheborder,you’llneed sometimes lengthyqueues,there are usu- unless youhave yourownvehicle. Otherthan % are waytotravel themostefficient overland, It’s alsopossible to travel to/fromallof Border postsgenerally don’thave petrol 0861 287287,021-3804400;www.intercape.co.za) which actsasatempo- Intercape Mainliner Intercape carnet de 589

SOUTH AFRICA AFRICA SOUTH SOUTH AFRICA Jo’burg/Pretoria andMaputo viaNelspruit large rundailybetween ‘luxury’ buses Several BUS From Mozambique recommended. clearance,buta4WDis 2WD withsufficient Pass; it’spossibletoexitviathisroute witha viaSani a4WDtoenterYou’ll need Lesotho all are possibleina2WDexceptSaniPass. to thesouthandeastare unpaved, though of thecountry.Mostof theentrypoints cycle are onthenorthernandwestern sides The easiestentrypointsforcarandmotor- CAR (about US$17,five hours). border and Butha-Buthe viaCaledonspoort are sometimes direct Jo’burg between taxis on toButha-Buthe andpointsnorth.There cross theborder,andthenget aminibustaxi toFicksburg, take aminibustaxi Lesotho, travelling Jo’burg between andnorthern Africa; aboutUS$2,45minutes). Ifyouare andMatatieleQacha’s Nek(Lesotho) (South (see p522 dailybetween taxis ); andseveral and Underberg (SouthAfrica)viaSaniPass (Lesotho) Mokhotlong between minibus taxi Africa sideof Maseru Bridge. leaving Maseru, togotheSouth you’llneed you intoMaseru comingfromSouthAfrica; ing) andMaseru. routes willbring Allthese (16km fromtheMaseru Bridge bordercross- bothJo’burg between andLadybrand bus taxis Maseru hours), anddailymini- (sixtoseven Jo’burg between and least three weekly buses to Maseru (US$2,1½hours). There are alsoat belo; US$4,onehour),andthenfromthere are toBotshabelo(Mta- fromBloemfontein Park, andonthebusatMaseru Bridge. the BigSkybooths Central atBloemfontein’s and onSundayafternoon. Tickets are soldat morning, andfromMaseru Bridge onFriday tein (twohours) onFridayandSaturday fromBloemfon- hours), withexpress services fontein andMaseru Bridge (US$4.70,three dailyineach directionbuses Bloem- between Big SkyCoaches BUS From Lesotho South Africa,viaGaborone. neartheborderwith Zimbabwe, andLobatse, 590 Via minibus taxi, thequickestVia minibustaxi, connections Other useful connectionsincludeadaily Other useful TRANSPORT IN SOUTH AFRICA •• Getting There &Away INSOUTHAFRICA••Getting TRANSPORT (www.bigskycoaches.co.za) runstwo www.intercape.co.za) 077, 302083;www.pantherazul.com) Alternatively, inPonta mostplacestostay ontheMozambiqueside). (4WD isnecessary yourownvehicle border,youwillneed Bay For travel to/fromMozambiqueviatheKosi CAR ing ontoManzini (US$4.50,3½hours). der post(US$2,1½hours) withsomecontinu- morning fortheNamaacha/Lomahasha bor- and Namaacha. (Swaziland) hours), BigBend passingthrough DurbanandMaputobetween (US$31,8½ See p592 formore Bus. ontheBaz where youcanget toMaputo. aminibustaxi and DurbanwithManzini (Swaziland),from www.bazbus.com) NelspruitandJo’burg.between NelspruitandMaputo,lines between butnot You canalsotravel ineach direction onthese Translux Panthera Azul Mainliner Intercape Greyhound includethefollowing: nine hours). These to and Komatipoort(US$20toUS$30,eight the Mozambique section atthe border.the Mozambique section tobuythe ticketthe whole way,you’llneed for (US$3.50, 1½hours). Even ifyoutake thetrain so slow,it’smuch better totake aminibus ontheMozambique sideis but asservice (Mtc15,000, economyclassonly,five hours), change totheMozambican traintoMaputo 14 hours). OnceatKomatipoort, youcan (1st/2nd/3rd classfromUS$25/17/9, 13to and KomatipoortviaPretoria andNelspruit operated byShosholoza Meyl, linksJo’burg The daily(exceptSaturday) TRAIN and 45kmeastof Nelspruit. Middel burg andWitbank,atMachadodorp with tollsontheSouthAfricasidebetween ing Jo’burg withMaputo Garcia, viaRessano holidays. and alsoduringtheSouthAfricanschool d’Ouroiseasyatweekends border andPonta fers foraroundUS$20.Hitchingthe between d’Ouro (Mozambique)willarrange trans- Minibuses departMaputoMinibuses dailyinthe Panthera three timesweekly Azulhasbuses Alternatively, the There’s tollroadconnect- agoodtarmac ( % ( % 011-774 3333;www.translux.co.za) ( linksJo’burg/Pretoria, Nelspruit % 012-323 1154;www.greyhound.co.za) 011-618 8811, Maputo 021-302 011-618 8811,Maputo ( % Baz Bus 0861 287287,021-3804400;

lonelyplanet.com ( % Komati 021-439 2323; train, tween Windhoek andUpington(25hours). Windhoek tween overland operators. Swaziland andLesotho; it’salsotheUSagentforseveral inbitsof circuitthattakes including a22-daySouthAfrica www.adventurecenter.com) Budgetto midrange tours hoek viaUpington(US$65,20hours). It’spos- hoek TownandWind- Cape between times weekly Mainliner Intercape BUS From Namibia lonelyplanet.com African WildlifeSafaris African Company Adventure Africa Centre Adventure possible tourcompanies: flower-watching etc).Followingisalistof for variousspecialinterests (bird-watching, packageise tours toSouthAfricaincluding Dozens of companiesorgan- tourandsafari TOURS in parttofuelshortages. Jo’burg andZimbabwewere suspended,due between At thetimeof research, busservices BUS From Zimbabwe leave taxis distance earlyinthemorning. change attheborder. minibuses Most long- 2½ hours). to Formanyroutes, you’llneed Manzini andMaputo (Mozambique;US$4.50, hours), Durban (US$16,eight andbetween (US$0.90, fourhours), Manzini between and (Park MbabaneandManzini Station), coast. KwaZulu-Natal DurbanandManziniand between viathe Jo’burg/Pretoria toManzini viaNelspruit, ( The bestconnectionsare onthe BUS From Swaziland namib.com.na) The TRAIN days,withachangesame of businUpington. Intercape Mainliner (US$83,25hours) onthe sible totravel with fromJo’burg toWindhoek Garden Route. Garden National Park, inCapeTownandthe plusotheritineraries aroundKruger reserves includingtheprivate safaris, wildlife Upper-end 882 9453;www.africa-adventure.com) in South Africa and neighbouring countries. andneighbouring in SouthAfrica Customised wildlife.africanwildlifesafaris.com.au) safaris % Minibus taxis run daily between Jo’burg rundailybetween Minibus taxis 021-439 2323;www.bazbus.com) Trans-Namib ‘StarLine’ runs twice weekly be- runstwiceweekly ‘StarLine’ TRANSPORT IN SOUTH AFRICA •• Getting Around INSOUTHAFRICA••Getting TRANSPORT (

( % %

(www.intercape.co.za) Namibia 061-2982175;www.trans 510-94 1879,800-2282747; ( % ( 03-9696 2899;www % , which runsfrom 954-491 8877,800- runsfour Baz Bus

faris.com) Offers a good range of Cape to Kruger itineraries. agoodrangeofCapetoKrugeritineraries. Offers faris.com) Elizabeth. CapeTown,Durban,Jo’burg andPort has flightslinking and AirwaysflightswithinAfrica, OperatesBritish .co.za) airport transfer services andcarrentals. transfer services airport ElizabethandMpumalangaKruger. Port AlsooffersGeorge, Jo’burg,CapeTown,Durban, flightslinking ates no-frills tours. Greater StLucia WetlandsPark. includingintheWesternCapeand South Africa, in rides forhorseaficionados,withvarious .com) Strictly Swaziland cyclingitinerary. and andincludingaSouthAfrica upscale wildlife safaris, .net.au) Caterstoallbudgets,fromoverlandtrucktours Nelspruit. Elizabeth,SunCityand Port Cape Town,Durban,George, Jo’burg, ship withVirginAtlantic,andhasflightslinking 7200; www.nationwideair.co.za) Operatesinpartner- Route itinerary. CapeTownandGarden includingatwo-week packages, SouthernAfrica various www.wildernesstravel.com) Offers Wild Coast in the Eastern Cape isbeautiful Cape intheEastern Wild Coast areWestern Cape excellentbiking areas. The PeninsulaThe Cape andtheWinelandsof the South Africaoffers somerewarding cycling. Bicycle Nationwide Airlines Kulula.com Comair Town andEastLondon.Alsooffers carrentals. Elizabeth,andbetweenCape andPort London, George Jo’burgwithCapeTown, Durban andEast flights linking 1time flying domesticallyincludethefollowing: save significantlyistobookonline. cellent safety record. domesticroutes andshare SAA’sex- service Express SAAirlink route network tomajor cities.Itssubsidiaries, mestic carrier,withanextensive andefficient 722, 011-9785313;www.flysaa.com) carrier, In additiontobeingtheinternational flag Air AROUND GETTING Wilderness Travel Travel Peregrine In theSaddle Guerba Safaris Born Free In addition to SAA and its affiliates, airlines In additiontoSAAanditsaffiliates, Domestic fares aren’t cheap. Onewayto ( % ( ( ( % % %

( South African Airways South African % 0861-345345; www.1time.co.za) No-frills No-frills 0861-345345; www.1time.co.za) ( 0860-435 922,011-9210222;www.comair 01373-826 611; www.guerba.com) Overland 01373-826 611;www.guerba.com) Overland 011-978 5577 % ( 011-978 5313;www.saairlink.co.za) % 0861-585 852; www.kulula.com) Oper- 0861-585 852;www.kulula.com) ( ( % 01299-272 997;www.inthesaddle ( % % ( % 03-8601 4444;www.peregrine 800-472 3274;www.bornfreesa 510-558 2488,800-3682794; ; 0861 -737737,011-344 www.saexpress.co.za) isthemaindo-

(SAA; % 0861-359 and , also 591 SA

SOUTH AFRICA AFRICA SOUTH SOUTH AFRICA the bigcities duringthe apartheid regime. people from theHomelands toandfrom has taken over theroutes thatoncecarried ( Bus,aswellwithmosthostels. with Baz a nominalextracharge. Youcanbookdirectly rangements off themain routes for withthose hostels alongtheway,andhastransfer ar- passes. checking travel outtheirone-andtwo-week the hop-on/hop-off feature. It’salsoworth more economicallyifyoutake advantage of on theothermajor lines,butcanworkout Point-to-point fares are more expensive than Jo’burg, passing nearKruger NationalPark. from DurbanviaZululandandSwazilandto ban andtheGardenRoute. Italsohasaloop Jo’burg viatheNorthernDrakensberg, Dur- Townand Cape between door-to-door service travellers. Itoffers fares hop-on,hop-off and ing almostexclusively tobackpackers and is night. the runthrough services many long-distance network linkingallmajor cities.Note that with areliable andreasonably comfortable they’re themainformof publictransport, together withtheless-appealingminibustaxis, they are inmanyothercountries.However, inSouthAfricaaren’tBuses thedealthat Bus don’tcarryluggage ontheroof.buses want bicyclesintheirluggage holds,andmini- workwell,asmostbuslinesdon’t doesn’t for comfort. and thatroadsnearurbanareas are toobusy ber are thatit’sillegaltocycleonhighways, ings of cyclingclubs.Otherthingstoremem- routes, andhaslist- diaries, suggests several majorbetween townsare often long. especially inthesteamy lowveld anddistances hot, ing, summerdayscanbeunpleasantly of violentthunderstorms. Whenitisn’train- mer (late November toMarch), intheform the westcoast)gets mostof itsraininsum- of and thecountry(exceptforWestern Cape offers wideplains. and challenging, whilethenorthernlowveld 592 % Baz Bus Mixing cyclingwithpublictransport SA-Cycling The Baz Bus drops off andpicksupatmany Busdropsoff The Baz A goodalternative buslines tothestandard In partnership with Translux, When planning,keep inmind thatmuch 011-774 3333,0861-589 282;www.translux.co.za) TRANSPORT IN SOUTH AFRICA •• Getting Around INSOUTHAFRICA••Getting TRANSPORT

( %

(www.sa-cycling.com) 021-439 2323;www.bazbus.com) postscyclists City to , cater-

lux between. London, Mthatha,Durbanandpointsin burg PortElizabeth,East withBloemfontein, is anewlinelinkingPretoria andJohannes- Intercape’s buses. newSleepliner regular fares) forareclining ononeof seat hauls, it’sworthpayingmore (about8%above than TransluxandGreyhound. Forlonger 4400; www.intercape.co.za) bique country, plusNelspruit special deals. andoffersland andRichards Bay, frequent also hasaJo’burg toDurbanroute viaZulu- Greyhound forTranslux, and pricingsimilartothose and aninformationdesk. centre, where there are bookingcounters originate at Jo’burg’s Park transit Station Manytowns inKwaZulu-Natal. services (for Zimbabwe),PietRetief,andvarious Mthatha, Nelspruit,Hazyview, Beitbridge towns. DestinationsfromJo’burg include places, includingtownships andmining lines, andgotomanyoff-the-beaten-track are lessexpensive thanontheother Services (US$136) Swaziland–Durban–Drakensberg–Jo’burg loop via theGardenRoute (US$215); Jo’burg– are: Town toDurban Cape hop-off service Busone-way fareshours). Baz forhop-on, TowntoKnysna(US$23,eight and Cape hours);to Durban(US$11US$20,eight Town(US$59,19hours); Jo’burgto Cape imate one-wayfares anddurations: Jo’burg disproportionately expensive. Someapprox- shortrunsare although lated bydistance, pric ing structure, fares are calcu- roughly is no-frills. City’s service air-con andoften videoandatoilet.Cityto would betheequivalentof ‘luxury’lines,with hound, aswellSARoadlink’snewerbuses Translux,Intercapelines, although andGrey- along theGardenRoute. (en route toMozambique) andvarioustowns London,Mthatha,Nelspruit Elizabeth, East Plettenberg Port Durban,Bloemfontein, Bay, Town,Knysna, connecting Cape has services The main long-distance busoperator The mainlong-distance SA Roadlink anextensiveOffering network,withroutes Servicing primarilythewestern half of the Servicing Except for the Baz Bus,which hasitsown fortheBaz Except There are noclasstiers on anyof thebus

( % ) , 011-774 3333,0861-589282;www.translux.co.za) Intercape Mainliner Intercape

( %

( % 083-915 -1200;www.greyhound.co.za) 011-333 2223;www.saroadlink.co.za) pricesare somewhatless ( en route toMozam- (

% 0861 287287,021-380 lonelyplanet.com Trans- ,

up to40%. any specials,which cansometimessave you iftheyare running the buscompaniestosee busjourneys,andalwayscheckseveral with inquire abouttravel ifyou’llbetaking passes, and Intercape hasbackpacker discounts.Also offer citizendiscounts, studentandsenior lonelyplanet.com you, clean yourwindowsand askiftheoilor An attendant for willalways fillupyour tank be paidforincash. There’s no self-service. or unleadedinall three countries,andmust Petrol costsaboutUS$0.70 perlitre forleaded FUEL home country. able fromamotoringorganisation inyour aninternationalneed drivingpermit, obtain- you’ll and ifitcarriesyourphoto;otherwise English (orifyouhave acertified trans lation), licence fromyourhomecountryifitisin yourdriving In SouthAfrica,youcanuse LICENCE DRIVING nations, soitpaystohave agoodroadmap. will refer numbers ratherthandesti- tothese 44), andwhenyouaskdirections mostpeople numbered (egR44–showninthisbookasRte tion of thenextlarge city.Smallerroadsare giving route numbers, ratherthanthedirec- erally onlydirecting youtosmallertownsor alternative routes, signpostingissparse,gen- (marked byablack‘A’inyellowcircle).On circle), andthere’s alwaysanalter native route (markedtoll section byablack‘T’inyellow plenty of warningthatyou’re abouttoenter a There’s ondistance. payable, based always atollis routes (eg N1). Onsomesections interesting backroadstoexplore. themainroutescondition, andoff there are economical. Mostmajor roadsare inexcellent If you’re inagroup,it’salsooften themost isthebestwaytogetyour ownwheels around. from themainbusandtrainroutes, having South Africaisidealfordriving,andaway & Motorcycle Car be counted on. atthelastminute, butthisshouldn’t a seat peak periods).It’ssometimespossibletoget much inadvanceaspossiblefortravel during in advanceforIntercape Mainliner, andas made atleast24hours inadvance(72hours Prices rise duringschool holidays;alllines Prices rise The country is crossed bymanynational The countryiscrossed should be For themainlines,reservations TRANSPORT IN SOUTH AFRICA •• Getting Around INSOUTHAFRICA••Getting TRANSPORT Cape Town. Cape Hire and stone (KwaZulu-Natal), clude .co.za) .co.za) estcarhire.co.za; SouthAfrica) estcarhire.co.za; aboutcars.com) recommended, notlegallyrequired though damage to orlossof your vehicle is highly Insurance forthird-party damage and INSURANCE 1860; www.britz.co.za). .africanleisure.co.za) are are cheaper. Twoplacesto try,bothinJo’burg, twointhebackofsleep acanopiedpick-up, include campinggear. campers, Bakkie which or attractlarge fees. Somecamper-van rentals one-wayrentalsthough are often notpossible, Renting acampervanisanotheroption,al- Tempest rialcarrental.co.za) Imperial per dayorless. can arrange better deals,fromaroundUS$25 Also check withbackpackers’ hostels; many expensive, theytend though tocomeandgo. Local car-rental companiesare usuallyless Hertz Europcar Budget Avis Around AboutCars to SouthAfrica. youragentthrough athomebefore coming mileage deals,it’sbesttobookandprepay about US$60.Forcheaper rates andunlimited 200km free of at perday.Rental a4WDstarts about US$40perdayincludinginsuranceand age requirement of at start 21years. Rates Africa. Mostcompanieshave aminimum rental isrelativelyCar inexpensive inSouth HIRE .europcar.co.za) hours. are plentyof manyopen24 petrolstations, US$0.30andUS$0.70. between water checking, needs andshould betipped For motorcyclerental, in- goodcontacts

( Along mainroutes inSouthAfricathere African Leisure Travel Leisure African % Mp p432; (Map ( % Motozulu ( ( % ( 0861-113 748,011-9233660;www.avis.co.za) ( % % % 021-935 4800,011-3909700;www.hertz 0861-016 622,011-3980123;www.budget 0860-031 666,011-3961080;www.temp 0861 131000,011-5741000;www.impe 0800 011344,011-5744457;www %

(www.motozu.lu.ms) and ( 021-423 0823;www.lecap.co.za) % Britz 4x4Rentals Britz 0860 4220422;www.around

( % 011-792 1884;www Le Cap Motorcycle Le Cap inPortShep-

( % 011-396

593

in SOUTH AFRICA AFRICA SOUTH SOUTH AFRICA passenger. are mandatoryfor thedriver andfront-seat as intheUK,Japan andAustralia. Seatbelts Driving isonthe left-handsideof theroad, ROAD RULES the keys immediately. do get don’tresist, carjacked, justhandover Ifyou the junctionisclear,andrunlight. practicetochecksuspicious, it’sstandard that stopped atared andnotice anything light and keep yourtaste incars modest. Ifyou’re windows woundupanddoors locked atnight, have killedfortheircars. alert,keep been Stay jackers are almostalwaysarmed,andpeople rentalrather thanastandard car. Thecar- more likely ifyou’re drivingsomethingflash it’s isaproblem, though big cities,carjacking In Jo’burg, extent intheother andtoalesser Carjacking storms candamage yourcar. you toacrawl.Inthelowveld, summerhail- of steamy thickfogcanslow KwaZulu-Natal, areas andespeciallyinhigher rainy season, andreportpolice station itthere. Duringthe safety, it’sbesttocontinuethenearest in anarea inwhich you’re of uncertain your adviceisthatifyouhitananimal Standard are anotherhazard,especiallyinruralareas. drivers remain adanger. permitted (over 0.08%inSouthAfrica)drunk Africa, butgiven blood-alcohol thehigh level Theretraffic. isalcohol breath-testing inSouth and theyoften assumethatthere isnoother Drivers ruralroadsoften onlittle-used speed passingroomthemajorinsufficient dangers. with overtaking blindandovertaking with country. the mostdangerous stretch of roadinthe Westisconsidered tobeand Beaufort over Town Cape 15,000).TheN1between someestimates10,000 (although placeitat record, withtheannualdeathtollaround South Africahasahorrificroad-accident HAZARDS ROAD Town. Bowring Head InsuranceBrokers IndependentBrokers African andInsuranceagenciesgood contact include for private-vehicle owners. TheAASAisa 594 Animals andpedestriansontheroads The mainhazardsare yourfellow drivers, TRANSPORT IN SOUTH AFRICA •• Getting Around INSOUTHAFRICA••Getting TRANSPORT ( % 021-425 1460) ( % , all based inCape , allbased ( 021-761 8332) %

086-100 1002) and , Lions First For getting aroundwithinacityortown,the Local Transport way toget somewhere. sometimes inruralareas itmaybetheonly form of travel wecanrecommend. However, larly inandnearurbanareas, andit’snota This isespeciallytrueinSouthAfrica,particu- Hitching entirely isnever safe inanycountry. Hitching US$0.30 andUS$0.70fortheirservices. them (theydon’tbite) andtipthembetween niceto your shopping or other errands.Be keep aneyeonyourparked carwhileyoudo on thecontinentwhowill(mostusefully) unemployedAfricansfromelsewhere wise you’ll encounter carguards–usuallyother- haveright, of theright way. approaching itfromthe about, andthose At roundabouts,vehicles already intheround- asthanks. probably flashtheirhazard lights the emergency lanetoletthempass,andwill faster drivers willexpectyoutomove into they’re onaminorcrossstreet). Onfreeways, arrivingfirstthose thefirst if togo(even roads. Allvehicles are required tostop,with (crossroad), which onmajor canoccureven rules. Themainoneisthe‘four-way stop’ bouring countries. Mostaccommodate 14to South Africa isn’tasfullit isinmanyneigh- elsewhere insub-Saharan Africa–‘full’in and, happily–especially ifyou’ve travelled neighbouring towns.Theyleave when full Africa –withincities,tothesuburbs andto runalmost everywhereMinibus taxis inSouth Minibus Taxi onweekends. many buses andthererunning earlyintheevening, aren’t usuallystop are extensive. services However, are cheap androutes, which are signboarded, other urbanareas have citybussystems. Fares Town,Jo’burg, PretoriaCape andseveral BUS Pretoria have metrocommuter trains. Town, Jo’burg and tricycle),andCape ised rikki (smallopenvans)and Durban, you’llhave otheroptionssuch asthe hire. Inafew Townand places,such asCape and regular –eithershared taxis orprivate main optionsare minibustaxis citybuses, In Johannesburg andotherurbanareas, There are afew localvariationsonroad tuk-tuk lonelyplanet.com (motor- are bythefactthat however, outweighed, tensive route networkandcheap prices.These about20. taking larger16 people,withtheslightly ‘Sprinters’ lonelyplanet.com following: withbudget-touraffiliated operators. ellers bulletinboards, andsomeare directly hostels aroundthecountry. Many have trav- travellers isfromthenetwork of backpackers’ get informationontours geared tobudget to exclusive Thebestwayto luxurysafaris. from budget-oriented overland trucktours There are dozensof tours available, ranging Tours andcomparableinsafety. minibus taxis, are more These slightly taxi. expensive than basically asmallerversion of theminibus the onlytransportoptionisashared taxi, In sometowns(andonlonger routes), Shared Taxi age aboutUS$1.10perkilometre. totelephoneyou’ll need foracab. Pricesaver- butusually stand, sionally, you’llfindataxi Occa- citieshaveLarger service. aprivate taxi Private Taxi be ahassle. luggage ontheroof, stowingbackpackscan transport. As don’tcarry mostminibustaxis areas toavoid before as usingminibustaxis and alwaysaskforlocaladviceonlines one, read thenewspapers, don’trideatnight, intolocallife.insights Ifyouwanttotry lic transport.They’re alsoagoodwaytoget maybetheonlychoiceminibus taxis of pub- they are fine. a handyandpopularwaytoget around– Town,where centralCape they’renotably remain aregular feature. Inotherareas – and reports of andother incidents muggings some routes are stillconsidered unsafe, highly recent years, insomeareas minibuses andon thingshavegunned. Although downin settled incidents where were crowdedtaxis machine- companies competingforbusiness,including gangster-style thevarious shoot-outsbetween byisolated outbreaks tarnished also been of accidents. Thereputation of has minibustaxis leave alottobedesired, andthere are many andvehicledriving standards conditionsoften Minibus taxis haveMinibus taxis theadvantages of anex- Some tour operators totry includethe Away fromtrainandmainbusroutes, TRANSPORT IN SOUTH AFRICA •• Getting Around INSOUTHAFRICA••Getting TRANSPORT .spoornet.co.za, clickon‘Passengers’).spoornet.co.za, and aroundCapeTowntheWesternCape. in CapeTown,plus‘wellness’toursandotheroptions Wininganddining 1151; http://gourmet.cape-town.info) National Park, Routeand otherareas. theGarden inKruger taking Cape Town,pluslongeritineraries ‘biodiversity’toursaround ments.co.za) Outdoor-oriented Aimed atoldertourists. midrange toursalongpopularroutes,includingdaytours. atlas.com) Oneofthemajorcoach-touroperators,offering various itineraries basedoutofCapeTown. itineraries various outfitoffering Abackpacker-oriented [email protected]) the surroundingarea. days,focusingonKrugerNationalParkone toseveral and toursrangingfrom Budget-oriented .bundusafaris.co.za) travellers, plus various toursforseniors. travellers, plusvarious foryounger Offers.co.za) campingandoverlanditineraries compartment. in thedining car,orinthe comfortof your of travelling more securely. Meals are available areand three in2ndclass) –these a goodway class) twoin1stclass or acoupe(which sleeps fourin1stclassandsix 2nd (which sleeps tively, youcanhire aprivate compartment additional charge forbeddinghire. Alterna- fares berth,butthere’s includeasleeping an fares are onshortsectors notinflated. and,unlike buses, thelong-distance affordable thebus.Thetrainsaretaking alsorelatively way toget around,andmore than comfortable p596 are). These agood andsafe, albeitslow, trains’ (someof themainroutes are listed, connecting major citieson‘name services trains are runby South Africa’sShosholoza Meyl passenger Train Wilderness Safaris SouthAfrica Thompsons Springbok-Atlas Encompass Africa Eco-Ist Tours TownGourmetAdventure Cape Company Bundu Safari BirdWatch Cape Routes African Africa’s main tourist spots. maintourist Africa’s inSouth tourtaking includingatwo-week and safaris, tours package andtop-end .thompsonssa.com) Midrange luxury bushcamps. alsooperatesseveral andspecial-interest trips; safaris luxury high-end specialistoperatoroffering Upmarket and surroundingareas. Asmalloutfitfortwitchers,focusingonCape Town .co.za) On overnight journeys,1st-and2nd-class ( % 021-559 2420; www.eco-tourisminvest 021-559 2420;www.eco-tourisminvest ( ( % ( % % ( (www.wilderness-safaris.com) (www.wilderness-safaris.com) % 031-563 5080;www.africanroutes Spoornet 021-762 5059;www.birdwatch 021-460 4700;www.springbok 021-434 9932;encompass ( % ( % 011-675 0767;www

( 031-201 3100;www % , andoffer regular 011-773 2944;www ( % 083-693

595 SOUTH AFRICA AFRICA SOUTH SOUTH AFRICA Seat 61 Seat the SouthAfricanrails,check out advance (youcanbookuptothree months in the above - ‘Do the right thingwith ourcontent.’ the above -‘Dotheright thetermsandconditionsonoursite foralongerwayofsaying youknow, orresell it.See everyone site,mass emailitto only. Inotherwords, pleasedon’tuploadthischapterto apeer-to-peer Inreturn, wethinkit’sfair toaskyouuseitforpersonal,non-commercial purposes restricted. © LonelyPlanetPublications. iteasier foryoutouse,accessthischapterisnotdigitally Tomake Komati Diamond Express Bosvelder Amatola 20 hours. Algoa Main routes includethefollowing: ROUTES ( the through or try canbedoneatanyindividualstation, advance). Bookingsforanywhere inthecoun- 596 © LonelyPlanetPublications Komatipoort-Maputo train. Komatipoort-Maputo tothe dleburg andNelspruit;daily;13hours;connects weekly; ninehours. to Friday; 20hours. to Friday; % Tickets mustbebooked atleast24hours in 0860-008 888,011-7744555) Jo’burg–Port ElizabethviaBloemfontein;daily; Jo’burg–Port TRANSPORT IN SOUTH AFRICA •• Getting Around INSOUTHAFRICA••Getting TRANSPORT

Jo’burg–Komatipoort via Pretoria, Mid- viaPretoria, Jo’burg–Komatipoort (www.seat61.com/South Jo’burg–EastLondonviaBloemfontein;Sunday Jo’burg–Musina via Makhado; daily;17hours. viaMakhado; Jo’burg–Musina Shosholoza Meyl Reservations Centre Reservations Meyl Shosholoza Jo’burg–Bloemfontein;three times . For an overview of. Foranoverview % 20Africa.htm) The Man in Man The .

an extraUS$180. Jo’burg andPretoria. Gautrain recommended reasons. forsecurity Thenew Town andPretoria, mostlinesaren’t though inJo’burg, Cape There are metroservices TRAINS METRO put avehicle onboardthe double theone-wayfares. It’spossibleto Elizabeth US$49/33/20.Returnfares are Town–Pretoria US$70/47/31;Jo’burg–Port fares: Jo’burg–Durban US$34/22/13;Cape Some 1st-/2nd-/economy-class sample Trans Oranje Trans Natal Trans Karoo fontein andKroonstad;weekly;31hours. fivetimesweekly;13½hours. maritzburg; daily; 28hours. (www.gautrain.co.za) Jo’burg–DurbanviaLadysmithandPieter- Pretoria/Jo’burg–Cape Town via Kimberly; TownviaKimberly; Pretoria/Jo’burg–Cape Cape Town–Durban via Kimberley, Bloem- CapeTown–DurbanviaKimberley, maysoonconnect Trans Karoo lonelyplanet.com for