LRB · Steven Shapin · Down to the Last Cream Puff (Print Version)
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The “Japanese Turn” in Fine Dining in the United States 1980–2017
The “Japanese Turn” in Fine Dining in the United States 1980–2017 Public Lecture by Samuel Yamashita In the 1970s, Japanese chefs began to appear in the kitchens of nouvelle cuisine chefs in France for further training, and scores more arrived in succeeding decades. Paul Bocuse, Alain Chapel, Jöel Robuchon, and other leading French culinary experts also started visiting Japan to teach their counterparts and to sample Japanese cuisine, and some eventually opened restaurants there. In the 1980s and 1990s, their frequent visits to Japan and the steady flow of Japanese stagiaires to French restaurants in Europe and the United States encouraged a series of changes that culminated in what Yamashita calls “Japanese turn.” Chefs at fine-dining establishments in Los Angeles, New York City, and the Bay Area began to use an ever widening array of Japanese ingredients, adopt the Japanese tasting-menu format, employ Japanese culinary techniques, and even add Japanese dishes to their menus. In the second decade of the twenty-first century, the wide acceptance of Japanese ingredients, culinary techniques, and concepts like umami in the restaurant world suggests that Japanese food and foodways have been naturalized and now are a part of American haute cuisine. Date: April 17, 2019 Time: 3:00 pm - 4:30 pm Place: UHM Library, Hamilton 306 Samuel Yamashita grew up in Kailua, a town on the Sponsors: northeastern shore of Oahu. A Woodrow Wilson Fellowship UHM Center for Japanese led to graduate work in Japanese history at the University of Studies seed (student equity excellence Michigan and a postdoctoral year at the Reischauer Institute at diversity) Harvard University. -
1.4 the Brain on Flavour
Spence c01.tex V3 - 04/17/2014 5:11 P.M. Page 1 1 Introducing the Perfect Meal “Once at least in the life of every human, whether he be brute or trembling daffodil, comes a moment of complete gastronomic satisfaction. It is, I am sure, as much a matter of spirit as of body. Everything is right; nothing jars. There is a kind of harmony, with every sensation and emotion melted into one chord of well-being.” (Fisher 2005, p. 325) 1.1 Introduction This is a book about the perfect meal and how to get it, or at least how to get closer to it: not in the sense of the chef travelling to the furthest corners of the globe in the search for the über-unusual and extreme of culinary delights (Bourdain 2002)1; nor in the behavioural economist’s sense of trying to opti- mize the benefits, while minimizing the costs, of the financial transaction that is dining out (Cowen 2012); and nor does this book offer a chef’s guide to, or search for, perfection as seen through the lens of molecular gastronomy or (better said) modernist cuisine (Blumenthal 2007; see also Rayner 2008). Rather, this is a book about how the latest insights from a diverse range of fields of research that include experimental psychology, design, neuroscience, sensory marketing, behavioural economics and the culinary and sensory sci- ences can, and inCOPYRIGHTED some cases already are, being MATERIAL used by a number of the 1 Note that this interest in the unusual extends all the way from the celebrity chef though to the home dining setting. -
Thierry Marx
[Type text] Press packet SYLVIA PINEL MINISTRE DE L’ARTISANAT, DU COMMERCE ET DU TOURISME Press Release Press Release www.artisanat-commerce-tourisme.gouv.fr Twitter: @ministere_ACT Paris, 10 September 2013 No. 259 Sylvia PINEL scales up the Fête de la Gastronomie with the “27 regions – 27 chefs – 27 recipes” project Sylvia PINEL, French Minister for Craft Industries, Trade and Tourism, presented the 2013 edition of the Fête de la Gastronomie yesterday, accompanied by festival patron Thierry Marx and a host of event organisers (chefs, culinary artisans, restaurant and catering professionals, local authorities, French tourism representatives, businesses, unions, confederations, partners, etc.). This year, the festival is growing to cover three days on Friday 20, Saturday 21 and Sunday 22 September 2013 and every region of France The Minister applauded the exceptional drive behind this edition, which now boasts a record 6,700 events nationwide (tastings, cookery workshops, demonstrations, screenings, conferences, festivals, visits, etc.) and over 30 large-scale banquets (see details at http://www.fete‐gastronomie.fr/en/events/). Given that the food and drink sector is all about sharing and enjoying and is a key economic player in France for jobs and tourism, Sylvia PINEL has scaled up the Fête de la Gastronomie this year with new projects: “27 regions, 27 chefs, 27 recipes”: 27 top chefs from the 27 French regions have cooked up simple, gourmet recipes using French regional produce and costing just five euros (preparation). These recipes are available free at: http://www.fete‐ gastronomie.fr/en/news/ “Draw your favourite dish”: a major nationwide drawing competition has been organised for 8-11 year olds to inspire kids to take an interest in good food. -
The Contradictions of Australian Food Culture
Terra Nullius, Culina Nullius: The contradictions of Australian food culture John Newton A thesis submitted for the degree of Doctor of Creative Arts University of Technology Sydney 2014 CERTIFICATE OF ORIGINAL AUTHORSHIP I certify that the work in this thesis has not previously been submitted for a degree nor has it been submitted as part of requirements for a degree except as fully acknowledged within the text. I also certify that the thesis has been written by me. Any help that I have received in my research work and the preparation of the thesis itself has been acknowledged. In addition, I certify that all information sources and literature used are indicated in the thesis. Signature of Student: Date: 1.11.14 2 Abstract In addressing the contradictions of Australian food culture, this project asks four questions. First and most importantly: how is it that after more than 225 years, we have no Australian or regional Australian food culture, nor even any evidence – through recipes and dishes – of its more tangible and visible vector, cuisine? Secondly: what are the consequences for a nation and its people of having bypassed this important stage in the evolution of a society? Thirdly: why in over 200 years living here do we eat practically nothing that grows locally but those fish, birds, crustaceans and shellfish analogous to European produce? And finally, if we do not have a food culture in the historical sense, what do we have? The second third and fourth questions will be answered during the course of the project. The answer to all these questions will require, firstly, an exploration of the history of European occupation of this land and its occupiers. -
A Reflection on the Story, Current Positioning, Offerings and the Darker Side of the Luxury Gastronomy Book, the Michelin Guide
Research in Hospitality Management 2021, 11(1): 59–65 RHM https://doi.org/10.1080/22243534.2020.1867386 2021 ©The Authors Research in Open Access article distributed in terms of the Hospitality Creative Commons Attribution License [CC BY 4.0] Management (http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0) A reflection on the story, current positioning, offerings and the darker side of the luxury gastronomy book, the Michelin Guide Nguyen Vinh Hoa & Isaure May* Luxury Hotel School, Paris, France *Correspondence: [email protected] ABSTRACT: This article gives some personal reflections on the luxury status of the most famous gastronomic bible — The Michelin Guide. The question being addressed — Is the Guide still considered a luxurious commodity? By using secondary data, the findings show that it is still recognised internationally as the symbol of “la haute cuisine” world and its epicurean experience. Importantly, being awarded stars has significant impacts on the pricing and visibility of restaurants. Besides, given the dualistic nature of the Guide, its offers become more present and accessible. However, many controversies are gravitating around Michelin: decrease in quality; unsuitable selection processes; secrecy and perceived unfairness in the evaluation system; restaurants and chefs refusing to be featured or awarded; the consumption of alcohol and drugs in Michelin-starred high-end kitchens; and chefs’ suicide due to strong pressure. KEYWORDS: beverages, consumers, food, luxury, Michelin Introduction What is luxury? When it comes to luxury establishments such as high-end In order to have a deeper understanding of the place of the eateries or luxury hotels, the Michelin Guide, also known as Michelin Guide in today’s world, it is necessary to go back the “Red Guide”, has undeniable authority and power in the and define the concept of luxury, what it stands for and how luxury cuisine world. -
Dans La Haute Gastronomie
Les ‘Revenue models’ dans la Haute Gastronomie Frédéric NLEMVO (POUR LA CORRESPONDANCE) Professeur, Groupe Ecole Supérieure de Commerce de Troyes 217, av Pierre Brossolette, BP 710, 10002 Troyes Cedex, France Tél: ++33 3 25 71 22 45 u Fax: ++33 3 25 49 22 38 [email protected] Bernard SURLEMONT Professeur ordinaire, Ecole des HEC, Université de Lausanne CH – 1015 Lausanne, Switzerland Tél.: ++41 21 6923461 u Fax: ++41 21 6923495u E-mail : [email protected] Diego CHANTRAIN Doctorant, Ecole des HEC, Université de Lausanne CH – 1015 Lausanne, Switzerland Tél.: ++41 21 6923379 u Fax: ++41 21 6923495u E-mail : [email protected] Colin JOHNSON Professor & Department Chair Department of Hospitality Management, San José State University One Washington Square, San José, CA 95192-0211 (USA) Tél.: 001 408-924-3197 u Fax: 001 408-924-3199u E-mail: [email protected] RESUME Ce papier présente un volet des résultats d’un projet de recherche à long terme portant sur les aspects managériaux et financiers des restaurants de la haute gastronomie. A ce jour, peu de recherches ont été menées sur la manière dont les grands chefs disposant de deux ou trois étoiles au célèbre Guide Rouge Michelin génèrent leurs revenus. Nous avons conduit des interviews exploratoires approfondies auprès de vingt grands chefs situés en France, en Belgique, en Grande-Bretagne et en Suisse ayant gagné deux ou trois étoiles Michelin au cours des dix dernières années. Après avoir présenté certaines des principales facettes de l’industrie de la haute gastronomie, nous décrivons et analysons les trois revenue models que nos interviews ont permis de mettre en évidence : (a) « Tous les œufs dans le même panier » (concentration sur son métier de base) ; (b) « Autant de paniers d’œufs que possible » (diversification maximale des sources de revenus) et (c) « Seulement les paniers d’œufs qu’on peut porter » (diversification partielle des sources de revenus). -
21-28 March 2015
21-28 MARCH 2015 AT CONSTANCE BELLE MARE PLAGE table des matières table of contents Message de Jean-Jacques Vallet Les membres fondateurs 5 26 - 27 Message from Jean-Jacques Vallet The founding members Les organisateurs Constance Hotels and Resorts 6 - 7 27 - 30 The organisors Message de Dominique Loiseau Les dîners exclusifs 9 32 - 33 Message from Dominique Loiseau The exclusive dinners Les Chefs étoilés Bernard Loiseau 10 - 13 35 - 40 The starred Chefs Campagne en Europe Les cuisiniers des îles 14 - 15 42 - 44 Roadshow in Europe The island cooks Le concours Les membres du jury 16 46 - 51 The contest The jury members Les commis Concept 17 52 - 53 The commis Les critères de notation Le concours de cocktails 18 55 The assessment’s criterias The cocktails competition Le dîner 12 étoiles Le concours “art de la table” 19 57 The 12 stars dinner The “art of the table” competition Le concours sommellerie Champagne Deutz 20 - 21 59 The wine competition Le programme de la semaine Le concours café gourmand 22 - 23 61 The week’s program The “café gourmand” competition La remise des prix Repères historiques 24 63 - 67 The prize giving Historical landmarks 3 INSPIRED BY PASSION Mots de bienvenue de Constance Hotels and Resorts Welcome from Constance Hotels and Resorts C’est toujours un immense plaisir d’annoncer le Festival It is always a great pleasure to announce the annual Culinaire Bernard Loiseau organisé au Constance Belle Festival Culinaire Bernard Loiseau, at Constance Belle Mare Plage, mais l’édition de cette année sera d’autant Mare Plage, -
Press Release 2021 Page 4 to 15 Bernard Loiseau, a Brand, a Culinary Hallmark, an Art De Vivre the Brand Identity and Values of Bernard Loiseau Page 6 & 7
Press release 2021 Page 4 to 15 Bernard Loiseau, a brand, a culinary hallmark, an art de vivre The brand identity and values of Bernard Loiseau Page 6 & 7 The Bernard Loiseau revolution Page 8 to 11 Heritage and succession Page 12 to 15 Page 16 to 59 Bernard Loiseau establishments Le Relais Bernard Loiseau, our headquarters Page 20 to 41 Loiseau des Ducs, Dijon Page 42 to 47 Loiseau des Vignes, Beaune Page 48 to 53 Loiseau Rive Gauche, Paris Page 54 to 59 Page 60 to 63 The innovations Your press contact Bérangère Loiseau +33 6 79 11 48 61 [email protected] Bernard Loiseau, a brand, a culinary hallmark, an art de vivre Bernard Loiseau, Bernard Loiseau, a brand, a culinary hallmark, a brand, a culinary hallmark, an art de vivre an art de vivre The brand identity and values The Bernard Loiseau Group: of Bernard Loiseau key figures A timeless legacy: living for the terroir Our values For nearly 20 years now, the Bernard Loiseau The headquarters Group has kept alive the genius and innovation Relais Bernard Loiseau in Saulieu of one man who revolutionised gastronomy and whose values have become truly timeless. French-style excellence “The Bernard Loiseau Experience” is about living High gastronomy, art de vivre for a terroir, awakening all the senses through and heritage authenticity, conviviality and the highest possible standards at all times. Bernard Loiseau’s life’s work has grown into this very company, a major force in high-end 3 restaurants Nearly 40 years gastronomy and French-style art de vivre. -
Molecular Gastronomy: Basis for a New Culinary Movement Or Modern Day Alchemy?
Molecular Gastronomy: Basis for a new culinary movement or modern day alchemy? Prof John Cousins The Food and Beverage Training Company London [email protected] Dr Kevin D O’Gorman* Department of Management Strathclyde Business School 199 Cathedral Street Glasgow University of Strathclyde [email protected] 0141 553 6006 Mr Marc Stierand Department of Management Science Strathclyde Business School University of Strathclyde [email protected] * Corresponding Author Molecular Gastronomy: Basis for a new culinary movement or modern day alchemy? Abstract Purpose – To explore the phenomenon of molecular gastronomy by conducting empirical research focusing on renowned chefs. Design/methodology/approach – Literature review summarising past culinary innovations then focusing on the origins and evolution of molecular gastronomy, followed by 18 phenomenological interviews with a snowball sample of world class chefs from across Europe. Findings – There is far greater confusion about what molecular gastronomy might be than is implied in previous studies. The term has become wrongly used to describe a possible culinary movement mainly as a result of media influence. Leading chefs, whose new restaurant concepts have become associated with it, reject the term. Research limitations/implications – With only 20 years of history molecular gastronomy is still a comparatively new phenomenon, this initial research presents a clear picture of its evolution so far and the increasing confusion the use of the term has created. It’s still far too early to decide if these are heralding a new gastronomic movement. Practical implications – Although molecular gastronomy itself may not provide a foundation for a genuine and lasting development of cuisine it is generating fascination with the fundamental science and techniques of cuisine and showy culinary alchemy. -
International Cookbook for Quinoa: Tradition and Innovation
International Cookbook for Quinoa: Tradition and innovation Project management: Salomón Salcedo and Tania Santivañez. Coordination and editing: José Luis Reyes and Melisa Aytekin. Design: Mariana Young. Photography: Claudio Guzmán. Recipe photographs: Jonathan Astorga. Food presentation for photographs: Aramark team. Nutrition advisors: María José Coloma, Ryan Gorczycki and Shelly Johnston. Collaborators: Daniela Marín and Byron Jara. The designations employed and the presentation of material in this information product do not imply the expression of any opinion whatsoever on the part of the Food and Agriculture Organization of the United Nations (FAO) concerning the legal or development status of any country, territory, city or area or of its authorities, or concerning the delimitation of its frontiers or boundaries. The mention of specific companies or products of manufacturers, whether or not these have been patented, does not imply that these have been endorsed or recommended by FAO in preference to others of a similar nature that are not mentioned. The views expressed in this information product are those of the author(s) and do not necessarily reflect the views or policies of FAO. ISBN 978-92-5-108057-3 (print) E-ISBN 978-92-5-108058-0 (PDF) © FAO, 2014 FAO encourages the use, reproduction and dissemination of material in this information product. Except where otherwise indicated, material may be copied, downloaded and printed for private study, research and teaching purposes, or for use in non-commercial products or services, provided that appropriate acknowledgement of FAO as the source and copyright holder is given and that FAO’s endorsement of users’ views, products or services is not implied in any way. -
Presenter Biographies
PRESENTER BIOGRAPHIES All social media handles refer to Instagram accounts unless otherwise indicated. GASTÓN ACURIO, chef, writer, entrepreneur, and one of the most important promoters of Peruvian cuisine in the world, studied gastronomy and hospitality in Madrid and Paris, where he met his future wife, Astrid Gutsche. He founded his first restaurant in his hometown of Lima, Peru, in 1994, Astrid & Gastón, which went on to get top 20 rankings for years on the World’s 50 Best Restaurants and Latin America’s 50 Best Restaurants lists. The evolution of the menu over time from classic French dishes to experimentation with other ingredients and Peruvian preparations launched a country-wide trend. Gastón opened Astrid & Gastón franchises in Chile, Colombia, Mexico, and Spain, and created other brands, including La Mar, Tanta, Panchita, Chicha, Madam Tusan, Bachiche, and Papacho’s. In 2007, Gastón began focusing on education and founded the first school of chefs and waiters for low-income youth in Pachacútec, Ventanilla, Callao. That same year, he founded APEGA, the Peruvian Society of Gastronomy, with which he organized the first International Gastronomic Fair of Lima, subsequently named Mistura, one of the most important gastronomic events in Latin America. He has received many honors and awards, including Peru’s Order of Merit for Distinguished Services in the Grade of Grand Cross, the most important after the Order El Sol de Perú; Entrepreneur of the Year from América Económica; the World Gastronomy Award in Sweden; the World’s 50 Best Restaurants’ Diners Club Lifetime Achievement Award; and, with Astrid, the Eckart Innovation Prize. -
«Unser Fehler War, Dass Wir Die Französische Als Wichtigste Küche Der Welt Titulierten»
Datum: 26.05.2019 SonntagsZeitung Medienart: Print 8021 Zürich Medientyp: Tages- und Wochenpresse 044/ 248 40 40 Auflage: 152'566 Seite: 53 Auftrag: 3006223 Referenz: 73638943 www.tagesanzeiger.ch/sonntagszeitung/ Erscheinungsweise: wöchentlich Fläche: 106'131 mm² Themen-Nr.: 032.019 Ausschnitt Seite: 1/3 «Unser Fehler war, dass wir die französische als wichtigste Küche der Welt titulierten» Dreisternekoch Cäsar Troisgros will sich nicht auf den Lorbeeren ausruhen, die seine berühmte Familie einst geerntet hat ngre,mi «Die Frage, die jetzt zählt, ist: Werden Sterne künftig weiterhin für Qualität verliehen oder für Modernität?» Daniel Böniger Monsieur Troisgros, wie hat Ihr Vater reagiert, als Sie offen- barten, dass Sie Küchenchef werden wollen wie er? Es war nach dem Essen am Fami- lientisch. Meine Eltern waren glücklich über den Entscheid. All- zu überschwänglich reagierten sie aber nicht. Es gab keine Umarmun- gen. Vielleicht hatten sie es ja schon geahnt. Wo blieb da die jugendliche Rebellion? Tatsächlich dachte ich als Teenager darüber nach, allen irgendwann zu zeigen, dass ein Troisgros auch einen anderen Beruf erlernen kann - grad weil alle um mich herum stets an- nahmen, dass ich Küchenchef wer- den würde. Musik hätte mich inte- ressiert. Klar war für mich jedoch immer, dass ich gerne Leute erfreu- en würde. Und wie sollte das besser funktionieren als mit Essen? Schon Ihr Vater hat die Troisgros-Küche von seinem Vater übernommen - und sie weiterentwickelt. Haben Sie das auch vor? Ich weiss einfach noch nicht genau, wie. In einem Familienbetrieb muss sich jede Generation wohl- fühlen. Zugleich muss sie auch den Geist der Tradition am Leben er- halten.