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Get Inspired by the Hot New Foodie Destinations from Around the World ( TRAVEL SPECIAL ( A plate ın the sun Get inspired by the hot new foodie destinations from around the world BOOST YOUR BASICS Our cheat’s guide to quick The Sunday Times food magazine midweek meals March 2017 ( THE TRAVEL ISSUE As our love a air with Middle Eastern cuisine continues, Rachel Walker checks out the new food trends at Israel’s street-food stalls and buzzy restaurants . Plus, fi ve top chefs share recipes inspired by the region THE BIG FALAFEL our days into my trip to Israel, it with two other chefs in 2009 . It 2 cloves of garlic, crushed my notebook is full of scribbles: quickly caught the attention of the Za’atar A squeeze of lemon juice knafeh , jibneh , m ujadara . I’ve London-based brother and sister Layo eaten challah rolls stu ed with and Zoë Paskin , who realised it would lamb cutlets Heat the oven to pulled duck, and lamb wraps travel well and persuaded the chefs to With slow-roasted 180C (200C non-fan) . Flaced with green, spicy zhoug . Each open a branch with them in Britain. The aubergine and Put the aubergines into evening, my suitcase becomes a little result is the Palomar , in Soho, which tahini dressing a roasting tin that they heavier, weighed down by dried launched in 2014 to knock-out reviews fi t into snugly, brush all barberries and black limes, candied and was followed by a cookbook and a Israel is a Mediterranean over with 1 tbsp of hibiscus and sesame halva . sister site, the Barbary . country, and there’s a the oil and roast for Britain has been in the throes of a For three years, Elad swapped the lot of overlap with the 45-50 minutes, turning love a air with Middle Eastern cuisine pomegranates at Ma c hane Yehuda cuisine of Spain . These every so often until they for 15 years now, ever since Yotam market for the hustle of Soho. Now, are all ingredients I grew are very tender and look Ottolenghi set up shop in England and he’s heading back home. But his fi nal up with and use on a like they have defl ated. fi rst introduced us to sumac. And our move was to organise a trip for daily basis. Meanwhile, mix love for all things za’atar is only getting London chefs to travel to Israel. Jose Pizarro together all the stronger. Yet as I toured Israel and its Fergus Henderson sits at one end of Pizarro, London SE1 ingredients for the fast-paced food scene, it became clear the table, next to Hawksmoorʼs zaʼatar. Add the rest of the familiar falafel and fattoush are just executive chef , Richard Turner , with SERVES the oil, then use it to the start . other top chefs shoulder to shoulder 4 people coat the cutlets and set It’s in unexpected outposts that down the length of the table. They’ve TIME aside to marinate. Israel’s chefs are pushing the come to fi nd out how much more there 55 minutes For the dressing, boundaries . Down Jerusalem’s dusty is to discover, how many more forms INGREDIENTS b lend all the ingredients market lanes is a pioneering restaurant: chickpeas can take. 2 large aubergines and season well. Machneyuda . There are bowls of Throughout Israel, street shacks sell 2 tbsp olive oil When the aubergines velvet-thick tahini and pu ed warm wedges of hot , deep-fried aubergine 12 lamb cutlets are almost done, heat a pita and chamshuka (chopped meat with a fondant-like silky centre. Sweet Pomegranate molasses heavy pan or griddle with hummus) . Once the main course challah and fl u y breads make Britain’s Sumac over a high heat and is cleared away, the table is covered in supermarket “pita” look like shoe soles. 25g pine nuts, toasted sear the cutlets for 2 tinfoil and the mad ceremony of We feast on hay-smoked dates and wild A handful of coriander, minutes on each side, dessert begins as the fi rst slice of pears poached in hibiscus, and wines roughly chopped until they are golden semolina cake is fl ung across the table. made in the Golan Heights . We eat but still pink in the It captures the chaos of an ancient sweet baklava and sip treacle-thick For the za’atar middle. Set aside . bazaar. Laughter fi lls the room, co ee infused with cardamom. 1 tsp sesame seeds, toasted Halve the aubergines punctuated by shouts of “l’chaim” as Part of the excitement is how new 1 tbsp fresh oregano, and place one half of glasses of arak are knocked back. It’s this is to Israel, too. It’s taken the young fi nely chopped each on 4 warmed fun, free, fl uid. Waiters whip tea towels country decades to establish its 1 tbsp thyme leaves plates. Score their fl esh round their heads in time to Israeli folk culinary identity. When the state was 1 tsp sumac with a knife, then spoon music. The whole time, Yossi “Papi” founded in 1948 , refugees from Russia, 1 tsp ground cumin over the tahini dressing. Elad — my self-appointed “spiritual Poland, Hungary and elsewhere in Drizzle each with a little guide” for the trip — gently bobs in Europe brought with them bagels, For the tahini dressing molasses. Sprinkle with JERUSALEM BOUND From top: Rachel with chef Pascal Aussignac; the Dome of time to the beat. His grandfatherly face borscht and brisket. Delis stocked 150g Greek yoghurt a pinch of sumac, the the Rock; a stall at Machane Yehuda is lit up by smiling eyes. Machneyuda pickled gherkins and preserved meats, 70g tahini pine nuts and coriander. PHOTOGRAPHS: LISA LINDER. FOOD STYLING: JENNIFER JOYCE. PROP STYLING: SARAH BIRKS. BIRKS. SARAH STYLING: PROP JENNIFER JOYCE. STYLING: LINDER. FOOD LISA PHOTOGRAPHS: ILAN SPIRA GETTY, INSET: MELLOR. BOWL: DAVID ICECREAM MAP: STANFORDS. ENLIST. SUNGLASSES: market; shots of aged Israeli spirit is, after all, his restaurant. Elad founded and restaurants with starched A pinch of ground cumin Serve with the lamb . • The Dish March • ( THE TRAVEL ISSUE tablecloths tried to replicate the ground black pepper. roughly chopped, seeds brasseries and bistros they left behind. Line a baking tray Lemon and left in “Music, food, art — the influences all with parchment and za’atar 2 cloves of garlic, crushed came from Europe,” says a Tel Aviv scatter the onions ½ tsp ground cumin resident standing beside me in a queue over it. Pour over the chicken ½ tsp ground coriander for harissa lamb in pita. “Not any more. molasses mix, cover 3 tbsp olive oil The chefs in the city are getting their with another sheet skewers Juice of ½ lemon inspiration from closer to home.” of parchment and With fiery zhoug The following night, at the home of secure with foil. Cook 01 Cut the chicken Ruti Broudo, whose empire of coffee for 30 minutes. Raise thighs into bite-sized shops, bakeries and restaurants has the oven temperature This recipe makes a pieces. For the been at the forefront of the Tel Aviv to 200C (220C non-fan), delicious lunch when marinade, use a peeler food movement since the 1990s, we remove the foil and piled into warm pita to get large strips of pile in for a feast that shows just how top sheet of parchment, breads with salad lemon zest, then juice Israel’s cuisine has changed. then cook for another leaves, radishes and the lemons. Place in a The evening starts with European- 10 minutes, until cucumber and is also a large bowl with the rest inspired canapés: chopped liver on the onions are great one to use when of the ingredients and challah bread, and glasses of chicken caramelised. barbecue season mix well. Add the broth with mini dumplings threaded 03 For the dressing, use arrives. The amounts chicken to the bowl, on cocktail skewers. Then, spiced a balloon or electric mean that you might mixing well again. Cover dishes from the Middle East and whisk to mix the tahini have some leftover and leave to marinate, Northern Africa. There’s chermoula and lemon juice with zhoug — it can be ideally overnight. fish stew and slow-cooked lamb served 200ml iced water, until stored in a jar with a 02 To make the zhoug, with hot zhoug. We wrap the meat in it has the pouring little olive oil and will place all the ingredients, lachuch, a Yemeni flatbread pocked consistency of thick keep in the fridge for a apart from a handful of like a crumpet so the meat juices flood cream. Taste and season week, but I’ve never coriander, in a food into the holes. It’s a smorgasbord of with salt if necessary known it to stick processor. Add a Sephardi and Maghrebi influences, the — some tahini brands around for that long. generous pinch of salt melting pot of modern Israeli cuisine are saltier than others. You will need 8-10 and blitz well until you that now confidently celebrates its 04 To finish the salmon, skewers for this — if have a bright green Middle Eastern roots. heat a large frying pan you're using wooden paste, similar in “A chef in France or Italy is Blackened 30g parsley , chopped as hot as you can get it. ones, soak them in cold consistency to pesto. expected to respect a set of rules. 3 plum tomatoes When it’s dry and water first to prevent You may need to add a There’s a particular way to make a salmon smoking, add the butter, them from burning.
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