Georgiou, Pauline. 2019. 'Staged Nostalgia': Negotiating Identity Through Encounters with the Landscapes of Conflict in Cypr
Total Page:16
File Type:pdf, Size:1020Kb
Georgiou, Pauline. 2019. ‘Staged Nostalgia’: Negotiating Identity through Encounters with the Landscapes of Conflict in Cyprus. Doctoral thesis, Goldsmiths, University of London [Thesis] https://research.gold.ac.uk/id/eprint/26977/ The version presented here may differ from the published, performed or presented work. Please go to the persistent GRO record above for more information. If you believe that any material held in the repository infringes copyright law, please contact the Repository Team at Goldsmiths, University of London via the following email address: [email protected]. The item will be removed from the repository while any claim is being investigated. For more information, please contact the GRO team: [email protected] ‘Staged Nostalgia’: Negotiating Identity through Encounters with the Landscapes of Conflict in Cyprus Pauline Georgiou For the degree of Doctor of Philosophy Department of Anthropology Goldsmiths, University of London 1 I …………………………………………….. hereby declare that this thesis and the work presented in it is entirely my own. Where I have consulted the work of others, this is always clearly stated. Signed: ______________________ Date: 2 ABSTRACT The thesis is an ethnography of modern day Greek Cypriot society and the struggle to establish identity and belonging through encounters with the landscape. It contributes to the anthropological literature on Cyprus and on wider literature on heritage, tourism and borders. The historical conflict that has left Cyprus divided for 44 years becomes the basis for an identity crisis which is then fuelled by internal conflicts based on perceptual dichotomies and divisions. Collectiveness is achieved through socializing mechanisms and recitals such as the proposed ‘staged nostalgia’ which involves the public and collective performance of patriotism, mourning, victimization and nostalgia. This public and private distinction and the performance of ‘staged nostalgia’ resonates throughout the thesis as encounters with the landscape shape perceptions of identity. Chapter Two introduces Greek Cypriot identities as ‘products of conflict’, covering the historical, social and politico- economic context of the suggested identity crisis. Then, four chapters approach the questions through a focus on the physical landscape and interactions with it during fieldwork. First, the contested border becomes the edge upon which identity negotiations take place. The division of the physical landscape reflects the social divisions and as the border becomes penetrable new perceptions and challenges are formed. Then, interactions with the physical landscape of loss and decay challenge notions of temporality and monumentalization. The heritage landscape becomes a space of further contestation as multiple narratives compete for legitimization. Internationalist and nationalist heritage regimes attempt to establish narratives of heritage as top-down impositions onto the landscape. At the same time, local voices and memories are lost in time and selective histories are passed on. Parallel to this, tourism spaces become opportunities for public display and consumption of the contested ‘self’ where contradicting notions such as ‘modernity’ and ‘tradition’ compete. While individuals express their struggle to conceptualize their personal relationship with identity, ‘staged nostalgia’ takes over in the public sphere to display a very particular socio-political existence 3 LIST OF ACRONYMS AND ABBREVIATIONS AHDP Association for Historical Dialogue and Research AKEL Progressive Party of Working People CAC Cyprus Agrotourism Company under CTO CMP Committee on Missing Persons CTO Cyprus Tourism Organization DISI Democratic Rally EOKA National Organization of Cypriot Struggle/Fighters EU European Union EUC European High Commission in Cyprus OBZ Occupy Buffer Zone TCC Technical Committee on Crossings TCCH Technical Committee for Cultural Heritage TIKA Turkish International Cooperation and Development Agency UN United Nations UNDP-PFF United Nations Development Programme- Partnership for Peace UNFICYP United Nations Peace-keeping Force in Cyprus 4 LIST OF FIGURES Figure 1: Satellite picture of the old town of Nicosia and outline .................................................. 12 Figure 2: Approximate map of Cyprus ....................................................................................................... 13 Figure 3: The use of flags. ................................................................................................................................ 72 Figure 4: The Ministry notebooks ............................................................................................................... 92 Figure 5: Abandonment and decay ...........................................................................................................100 Figure 6: Restored sections of the Green Line. .....................................................................................100 Figure 7: UN entrance to the Buffer Zone of the Green Line ..........................................................106 Figure 8: The crossing at Ledras street ...................................................................................................109 Figures 9: Graffiti. .............................................................................................................................................112 Figures 10: Activism. .......................................................................................................................................150 Figure 11: Detail of the contested border ..............................................................................................152 Figure 12: The Green Line ............................................................................................................................153 Figure 13: Restored street ............................................................................................................................153 Figures 14: The life of Decay. .......................................................................................................................161 Figure 15: Detail of the contested border ..............................................................................................164 Figures 16: Remains of conflict on the edges of the Green Line ...................................................168 Figure 17: The ghost city of Famagusta ..................................................................................................169 Figure 18: Poster seen in the old town ....................................................................................................187 Figure 19: CTO brochure featuring the image of Aphrodite on the logo ...................................222 Figure 20: Agrohotel lobby ...........................................................................................................................237 5 LIST OF APPENDICES Appendix 1: Pseudonyms…………………………………………………………………………...………….271 Appendix 2: Translations of poems and songs featured……….………………………………….274 6 ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS Reflecting back to the process of this project I have much to be thankful for. I would first like to express my gratitude to my supervisors Charlotte Joy and Mao Mollona for their invaluable support and feedback over the years, to Mark Johnson and Victoria Goddard, and to everyone the Anthropology Department at Goldsmiths for providing a safe and productive work space. Thank you to my examiners for their vital feedback and suggestions for this final draft. I owe much gratitude to the organizations who made this ethnographic research possible by allowing me in; the Cyprus Tourism Organization for opening its doors to me, the UNDP- PFF team and TCCH for making me feel like one of their own, and the unnamed Agrohotel in beautiful Pitsilia which hosted me for a few –very cold- months. I have the utmost respect for them and for the individuals within them. To the new friends I made as part of this project, thank you, this is the product of our many hours of talking about, at times difficult, but always constructive topics. To old friends who are also present in this work, thank you for being such an inspiration. Your input has been instrumental. I have had the strongest support system throughout my life and particularly these past few years, without which I would not be who I am today: To my parents, all the thank yous will never be enough. Thank you for your support in every step of my life and the unlimited love that I receive from you every day. Everything I do is a reflection of this, including this thesis which is dedicated to you. To the rest of my family, especially my two amazing brothers, the rest of our crazy cousins, and my remarkable giagia, thank you for everything. Wherever we all are in the world, your love is present in my life daily. To my close friends in Cyprus and in the UK who provide an outlet of laughter and fun, you have been more important to my sanity than you will ever know. Finally, to my partner in life and my best friend. Thank you for holding my hand through the good and bad, for your unlimited amount of patience and positivity, for always being there to listen to my fears and my silence, for challenging me and teaching me so much, for being my home and my escape, for helping me through my occasional darkness and for bringing out my light. I could never have done this without you. 7 To my parents Adam and Niki, and to Kyria Loukia 8 Table of Contents Abstract