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September 14, 2017 La Loire the Loire Valley Is Called the Jardin De La France, and in This Garden Grow Many of Our Favorite Grape Varieties

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September 14, 2017 La Loire the Loire Valley Is Called the Jardin De La France, and in This Garden Grow Many of Our Favorite Grape Varieties The Wine and Cheese Cask 407 Washington Street • Somerville, Massachusetts 02143 (617) 623-8656 August 15, 2017 – September 14, 2017 La Loire The Loire Valley is called the Jardin de la France, and in this garden grow many of our favorite grape varieties. Take a trip around Touraine and taste great whites made from Chenin, Sauvignon and the rare Romorantin. Also try a pair of reds made from the noble Cabernet Franc and the lively Gamay. And because it’s still summer... a dry Rose. Chenin Blanc Le Bois Jacou 2016 Saumur Blanc ‘Les Epinats’ (Cave de Saumur) 2015 Touraine Gamay ‘Le Bois Jacou’ (Jean-Francois Sale Price $9.99 – $101.90 case of twelve Mérieau) The Cave de Saumur always delivers wonderful dry Chenin Sale Price $14.99 – Blancs. The fantastic $152.90 case of twelve value, single-vineyard Mérieau’s Gamay is a ‘Les Epinats’ is aromatic raspberry-red fruited de- and crisp, with deep light with a gently tannic mineral flavor and a long, dry finish. The warm 2015 dry finish. Great with vintage puts a little more cold poached salmon with body on the framework a dill sauce. of this impressive Gamay. Great with fried chicken and corn on the cob. L’Arpent Blanc 2016 Touraine Sauvignon ‘L’Arpent des Vaudons’ (Jean- Les Chiens Chiens Francois Mérieau) 2015 Chinon ‘Les Chiens Chiens’ (Domaine de La Noblaie) Sale Price $14.99 – $152.90 Sale Price $17.99 – $183.50 case of twelve case of twelve In our modest opinion Cabernet Franc is the great red grape that Jean-Francois Mérieau is not enough people know about. The communes of Chinon, adroit with virtually all of the Bourgueil, and Saumur-Champigny all make red wines of a Loire Valley’s grape varieties. quality that far exceeds the price on the bottle. The 2015 His biggest seller chez Chinon from Domaine Wine Cask is his zesty dry de la Noblaie is a grace- Sauvignon Blanc with its fruit ful and generous red and mineral components that with smoky blackberry bring to mind a more expensive Sancerre. The 2016 is packed aromas, a palate of fine- with pithy citrus and a clean, long finish. Great with a goat grained tannins, and a cheese and green bean salad. long, singing finish. Have this with a grilled chicken Cri de Cour and a spicy cole slaw. 2014 Cour Cheverny (Francois Cazin) Sale Price $14.99 – $152.90 case of twelve Baudry Encore Yes, we did feature this vintage of 2016 Chinon Rosé (Bernard Baudry) Cour-Cheverny from Cazin before, Sale Price $17.99 – $183.50 and we are more than happy to have it case of twelve back in stock because Romorantin is a At Baudry the rosé is not grape that rewards with age. The 2014 rushed. They hand harvest was a textbook Loire vintage, and this the grapes, let the natural wine has now shaken off its nervous yeasts start the fermenta- youth and broadened in body and tion, and then follow with a weight its delicious stone fruit and complete malolactic fermentation to give the wine total dryness almond flavors. Try this with grilled and a round, rich finish. Year after year this is our favorite Loire swordfish and a tomatillo salsa. Valley Rosé. Listed prices are honored through September 14th. We will not honor mistyped prices. Vol. 41, No. 9 Aix en Rosé 2015 Red Burgundy 2016 Coteaux d’Aix-en-Provence Beaune et Nuits (Domaine de la Chapelle Saint Victor) After a few challenging and small harvests, producers exulted Sale Price $11.99 – $122.30 case in Burgundy in 2015 with an only slightly below average sized of twelve harvest of exceptional quality. Understandably, prices went Here is another example of a up, but we have been securing our old favorites and trying delicious, delicate, pale dry Rosé some new Domaines to offer some affordable, high-quality from Provence. Plus it’s organic red Burgundy. and a great value. Great with 2015 Chorey-les-Beaune (Joseph Drouhin) grilled eggplant and a tomato Sale Price $27.99 – $285.50 case of twelve salad. Summer lives! In our experience Drouhin’s Chorey-les-Beaune exceeds its Del Pino price category in warmer, riper years. The location of Chorey at the base of the Corton hill 2015 Barbera d’Alba (Cantina del Pino) needs a bit of heat for full ripe- Sale Price $21.99 – $224.30 case of twelve ness. The impressive vine age With their penetrating aromas of 50 plus years certainly helps. and near perfect balance, all The 2015 drinks well now and of Cantina del Pino’s reds will age and improve over the share a transparent purity, but next five years. their Barbera d’Alba practi- cally transcends the varietal. 2015 Côtes de Nuits Villages (Domaine Gachot- This can be partly explained Monot) by time and terroir: the vines Sale Price $29.99 – $305.90 case of twelve are 70 years old and located Back in 1990’s Making Sense in the Ovello vineyard, one of the best sites in Barbaresco. of Burgundy, Burgundy sage The 2015 may be a bit riper and darker than the 2014, but it is Matt Kramer wrote: “Good still a pure expression of Barbera with its spicy raspberry fruit Côte de Nuits Village should and zesty dry finish. reflect the name. The wine should be fairly dark, with Scharzhofberger some tannin and a vaguely 2015 Scharzhofberger Riesling Kabinett (Reichsgraf von earthy fruitiness.” This pro- Kesselstatt) ducer’s version comes from their home village of Corgoloin Sale Price $17.99 – $183.50 case of twelve and that of neighboring Prémeaux-Prissey, two of only five The Scharzhofberger vineyard is sometimes called the villages allowed to contribute to a Côte de Nuits Village. This Montrachet of the Mosel because it is so mythic that it does meaty, dense Nuits is the real deal. not require its village name of Wiltingen to precede it on the label. Egon Müller is widely recognized as the best producer Julienas of Scharzhofberg, but 2015 Julienas (Stephane Aviron) good luck finding his Sale Price $19.99 – $203.90 case of twelve wine, and if you do be Of the ten Crus of Beaujolais, the two that please us most are ready to pay a steep price. Morgon and Julienas. Morgon Our best alternative comes is more abundant and available, from an estate nearly as while Julienas is elusive and famous. The Reichsgraf discreet. Our most regular visi- von Kesselstatt, with over tor from Julienas is Stephane 650 years of production, Aviron, whose wines veer is now enjoying a renaissance with its dry-styled Mosels. The towards Burgundian territory great Scharzhofberger shines in 2015 with impressive palate with their subtle fruit and more presence in an off-dry style. It hits all the right notes with its earth-driven style. The 2015 is ripe, round fruit and crisp, slate-inflected finish. A great wine a delicious, structured Cru with a hint of pepper between the for a simple meal of charcuterie and fine cheese. layers of fruit. Have this great Gamay with a roast chicken. Spicy and Speziale Specialty Foods 2016 Verduno Pelaverga (Fratelli Alessandria) Arethusa Farm Diva $21.99 per lb. (Regular price $22.99) Sale Price $19.99 – $203.90 case of twelve Though they only began making cheese in 2011, Arethusa Farm We are all in for vine diversity and always like to hear a story has an impressive number of high-quality offerings across a range of an old grape brought back from the brink of extinction. of styles for such a young dairy. Diva is a washed-rind cow’s Even better to taste one. The Alessandria family spearheaded milk cheese, reminiscent of an Italian the movement to save robiola in size, shape, and texture. Pelaverga, a grape variety The silky paste offers a clean, milky from their home village of sweetness, while the tacky orange rind Verduno. An underdog out hints at nuttiness and slightly more of central casting, Pelaverga pungent aromas and flavors. This is too light in color for a red balance makes it incredibly approach- grape, lacks tannin, and is able for a washed-rind cheese, sure to late to ripen. But in the hands please both devotees to the style and of a careful grower this those just beginning to explore “stinky” cheeses. delicate variety shines with a Jura Erguel $22.99 per lb. (Regular price $24.99) spicy aroma and gorgeous lingering red fruit. Have this slight- ly chilled with seafood risotto and a salad of bitter greens. One of the newer products imported from Europe by New York- based Columbia Cheese, Jura Erguel hails from a cooperative- Golden Aligoté owned dairy in the Jura mountain region of Switzerland. Jura 2015 Bouzeron (Domaine De Villaine) Erguel is a testament to both the quality of the unpasteurized Sale Price $29.99 – $305.90 case of twelve cow’s milk sourced from small family farms and to the skill of the If Bouzeron had a theme park cheesemakers. Its clean, lactic flavor and toothsome texture make it would have to be called it an extremely pleasant and versatile Alpine cheese. Aligoté-ville because this Cypress Grove Truffle Tremor $28.99 per lb. is the village that holds the (Regular price $30.99) only appellation dedicated to this grape. It certainly helps Cypress Grove out of Arcata, CA has a loyal following for their to have Aubert de Villaine, American original, Humboldt Fog. Less well known but equally one of the directors of the Domaine de la Romanée-Conti as deserving of praise is Truffle Tremor.
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