The Best of Montana & Wyoming

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1 The Best of Montana & Wyoming

A mix of the rugged Wild West, the even more rugged Rocky Mountains, and a few almost modern cities—or what we might call overgrown cow towns— make the states of Montana and Wyoming a delightful vacation spot. This is especially true for people who savor outdoor adventures, but it’s also the case for those looking to discover a part of the United States that many of us have seen only in the movies and on television (and that’s a rather distorted view). Here you’ll find some of the most breathtaking scenery in America; a vast array of wildlife that not only thinks it owns the place, but actually does; and even some first-class Western-style lodges, restaurants, and museums. Following are what we consider some of the best experiences in Montana and Wyoming, highlights to help you begin planning your trip.

1 The Best Vacation Experiences • Glacier National Park (MT): of wilderness, wildlife, and geo- The best vacation spot in Mon- thermal wonders. See chapter 10. tana is also the most obvious one. • Grand Teton National Park By the standard of other crowded (WY): The Grand Tetons are an national parks, this spectacular excellent short course in Rocky country is virtually undiscovered. Mountain parks for travelers with See chapter 4. less time: magnificent peaks rising • Yellowstone National Park (WY): from the Snake River plain, alpine It’s the crown jewel of American lakes, wildflowers, and wildlife, parks, and it remains the prime in a relatively small park that attraction in the Rocky Moun- can be seen in a few days. See tains. This unique park offers visi- “Grand Teton National Park,” in tors an extraordinary combination chapter 11.

2 The Best Outdoor Adventures • ExploringCOPYRIGHTED the Bob Marshall • Enjoying MATERIAL the Yellowstone Back- Wilderness (MT): The 1.5-mil- country (WY): Outfitters from lion-acre Bob Marshall Wilderness ranches around Yellowstone Complex in northwest Montana National Park will take you into is one of America’s most spectacu- the deep wilderness that sur- lar wild places. Lace up your hiking rounds the busy attractions at the boots, tie on your bandanna, and park’s center, and there you’ll get a take to the high country in Mon- flavor of the wild as rich as the tana’s northwest corner. See section Rockies can offer. If you have 7, “The Bob Marshall Wilderness experience, you can go on your Complex,” in chapter 5. own—paddling Yellowstone Lake, c544411 Ch01.qxd 4/9/04 8:45 AM Page 5

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backpacking into Bechtel Falls, Togwotee Pass. See chapter 10 for telemark skiing the powder on details.

3 The Best Wildlife Viewing • Glacier National Park (MT): The complement of Rocky Mountain experience of watching wildlife wildlife—although you have to amid the imposing terrain of wander into the backcountry to Glacier National Park is tough to find it. See section 7, “The Bob beat. With a little energy, you can Marshall Wilderness Complex,” see mountain goats, moose, elk, in chapter 5. and other native animals in their • The Lamar Valley (WY): You can natural habitat. Keep a good dis- see wildlife in many parts of Yel- tance, and be aware of any and all lowstone, including the meadows bear restrictions and regulations— across from the Old Faithful com- the grizzly is the park’s unofficial plex. But the richest trove of mascot. See chapter 4. wildlife is in the park’s northeast • The Bob Marshall Wilderness corner, a less-traveled corridor Complex (MT): Just south of that leads to the northeast Glacier, in the Bob Marshall entrance and Cooke City. See Wilderness Complex, roam a full chapter 10.

4 The Best Winter Vacations • Skiing at The Big Mountain take a snowcoach into the park, or Ski and Summer Resort (MT; cross-country ski or snowshoe to & 800/858-5439): With lots of the Lone Star Geyser and other powder, lots of skiing in the trees, attractions. See p. 303. and plenty of runs for every level of • Skiing at Jackson Hole Moun- skier, The Big Mountain is one of tain Resort (WY; & 307/733- the best resorts in the northwestern 2292): Jackson Hole offers a verti- United States. Better yet, it’s still cal drop that will take your breath relatively undiscovered. See p. 133. away, and a variety of ways to get • Wintering at Old Faithful (WY): to the bottom, from double black The chilly season in Yellowstone diamonds to intermediate slopes. is increasingly popular, and it’s Skiers who like a challenge should bound be even more so now that come here and mix the visit with the Old Faithful Snow Lodge has some ballooning, tours of the elk been transformed into a hand- refuge, and other adventures. See some, comfortable facility. You can p. 312.

5 The Best Hotels & Resorts • Many Glacier Hotel (Glacier • Gallatin Gateway Inn (Gallatin National Park, MT; & 406/892- Gateway, MT; & 800/676-3522): 2525): The best thing about Very old-world, the Gallatin Gate- Many Glacier, apart from its ele- way Inn is a model of historic elegant mien, its friendly service, and gance from the days of luxury its cozy rooms, is the setting, railroad travel. The Spanish-style along Swiftcurrent Lake and in building, with its vast interior the shadows of Mount Grinnell spaces, is large enough to be a rail- and Mount Wilbur. See p. 77. road station all its own. See p. 228. c544411 Ch01.qxd 4/9/04 8:45 AM Page 6

6 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF MONTANA & WYOMING Montana

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• The Pollard (Red Lodge, MT; • Old Faithful Inn (Yellowstone & 800/765-5273): You can join National Park, WY; & 307/344- Buffalo Bill Cody on the guest 7311): If you ever wonder whether register at The Pollard, a historic there is really art in architecture, spot that proves that a hotel doesn’t look at the way the rustic simplic- need to sprawl all over the place to ity and monumental structure of set the highest standard of comfort this inn make a perfect fit just and elegance. See p. 238. across the way from one of nature’s c544411 Ch01.qxd 4/9/04 8:45 AM Page 7

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CANADA 5

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most astonishing creations. A lat- create the quiet, luxurious atmos- tice of logs climbs to an 85-foot phere of a country inn despite a ceiling, and you can find peace in location in the heart of Jackson. So the upper balconies, or join the you can enjoy the amenities of the convivial crowds around the big great outdoors or a lively down- stone fireplace below. See p. 302. town and still escape for a relaxing • Rusty Parrot Lodge and Spa evening by a river-rock fireplace. (Jackson, WY; & 800/458-2004): See p. 319. The Rusty Parrot manages to c544411 Ch01.qxd 4/9/04 8:45 AM Page 8

8 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF MONTANA & WYOMING Wyoming

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90 MONTANA Gardiner Cooke City Tongue River Res. WYOMING 112 59 Devils Tower SHOSHONE Sheridan THUNDER BASIN Nat’l YELLOWSTONE 16 NAT’L Monument A NATIONAL BLACKBLACK HILLSHILLS N Buffalo Bill GRASSLAND A NATIONAL NATIONALNATIONAL T State Park N FOREST Devils Tower Jct. FORESTFOREST

O PARK

M Lake 14 BBIGHORNIGHORN Sundance DeSmet 59 East Entrance NATIONALNATIONAL Buffalo 90 (Open May 1– FFORESTOREST Gillette 90 Nov. 1) r e 16 90 iv R er e v n i o r R South Entrance h e 59 e s 196 v h (Open May 1– Nov. 1) o i rc h R u S o John D. 15 r 50 F GRAND e le Newcastle d l Rockefeller Jr. Be BRIDGER-TETON SHOSHONE w TETON o Mem. Pkwy NATIONAL P 450 NAT’L FOREST NATIONAL Mayoworth 191 PARK 450 ( FOREST Cl Teton os 387 THUNDER ed Barnum 190 85 Village in w BASIN Moose int er) 387 NAT’L Jackson BRIDGER- S

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Seminoe Reservoir er Torrington Riv ie Lara m Medicine Bow 30 Wheatland RRawlinsawlins 287 287 Res. No. 2 Chugwater

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10 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF MONTANA & WYOMING

6 The Best Guest Ranches • Triple Creek Ranch (Darby, MT; hike, fish, or simply relax and & 406/821-4600): This place is eat in the popular restaurant. wonderful. It’s pretty much the There are bird walks with natural- perfect guest ranch, where guests ists and forays into Yellowstone. are pampered like European roy- See p. 229. alty, and the prices reflect it. It has • Lost Creek Ranch (Moose, WY; all the traditional dude ranch & 307/733-3435): Positioned activities, or you can just swim in next door to a national park and the pool or work out in the fitness possessing a beautiful view of the room. See p. 107. Tetons on one side and the Gros • Lone Mountain Ranch (Big Sky, Ventres on the other, Lost Creek MT; & 800/514-4644): Lone layers on the comforts and activi- Mountain Ranch is a winter and ties. You can ride, hike, swim, fish, summer resort that has views into float, play tennis, shoot skeet, play the Spanish Peaks Wilderness billiards, and eat gourmet food. Area. In winter there are 45 miles Regulars return every year, and of cross-country trails over terrain there are only 10 cabins, but if that will challenge every level of you can get a reservation, it’s skier. In summer, you can ride, worth it. See p. 323.

7 The Best Bed & Breakfasts • The Garden Wall Inn (White- & 307/674-8150): There’s lots to fish, MT; & 888/530-1700): enjoy here: the 100-mile view This delightful B&B, built in from a secluded peak tucked amid the 1920s, is full of charm—all the Bighorn Mountains; a rustic of the furnishings are period hideaway that features a massive antiques, including claw-footed three-story living area and rooms tubs and Art Deco dressers; and decorated with country quilts and gourmet breakfasts include spe- lodgepole furniture; and the cialties like wild huckleberry chance to take a wildlife safari and crepes. See p. 136. search for a glimpse of moose, elk, • The Sanders (Helena, MT; or ever-present deer that inhabit & 406/442-3309): Built in 1875, the area. See p. 378. this historically important B&B • Nagle Warren Mansion (Chey- has been beautifully restored. The enne, WY; & 800/811-2610): Italianate brick-and-shingle man- This lavishly restored home by sion is located in Helena’s historic renowned architect Erasmus district, and you’ll settle on origi- Nagle, built in 1888 with stately nal 1875 furniture under the eyes spires and ornate Victorian details, of portraits hung by the original now oozes luxury inside and out owner, U.S. Sen. Wilbur Fiske as an elegant B&B, with the mod- Sanders. See p. 154. ern advantages of TVs, CD play- • Spahn’s Big Horn Mountain Bed ers, and phones in all of the and Breakfast (Big Horn, WY; rooms. See p. 399.

8 The Best Restaurants • Indigo (Great Falls, MT; & 406/ Jr. masterminds a menu of creative 453-1760): Chef Kevin O’Connell continental fusion in a dimly lit c544411 Ch01.qxd 4/9/04 8:45 AM Page 11

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room that feels more New York cuisine as “Western proteins with than Great Falls. The menu shat- Eastern spices and sauces,” with ters expectations of Montana cui- dishes like Asian BBQ ribs and sine, encompassing everything yellowfin sashimi on coconut- from the bayou to the Far East. orange rice. The atmosphere melds See p. 191. the historic and contemporary, • Buck’s T-4 Restaurant (Big Sky, with great results. See p. 248. MT; & 406/995-4111): This is • The Blue Lion (Jackson, WY; the place to experience what is & 307/733-3912): This is an old often called “Montana Food”— stalwart, still serving some of the game and beef, and lots of it. best food in the region, with deli- Buck’s has an extensive menu of cious game dishes like grilled elk game meats, excellently prepared, loin in peppercorn sauce, and and you can’t beat its charbroiled fresh seafood flown in daily. See steaks. See p. 230. p. 324. • The Dining Room at Chico • Jenny Lake Lodge Dining Room (Pray, MT; & 800/468-9232): (Grand Teton National Park; The vegetables served here are & 307/733-4647): The five- grown at the resort’s own green- course dinners here (from prime house. The game is raised here, rib of buffalo to smoked sturgeon and it’s served expertly, along with ravioli) are so good you might be beef, lamb, and other Rocky distracted from the spectacular Mountain staples. Portions are scenery just outside the window. generous and beautifully pre- You may be roughing it in the sented. See p. 234. park, but you’ll need to dress • Q (Billings, MT; & 406/245- properly at this establishment. See 2503): Proprietor Suzy “Q” Schaer p. 347. describes her hip new eatery’s

9 The Best Fly-Fishing • The Madison (Yellowstone, MT): • The Snake (WY): It seems some- Brown trout are not native to this how fitting that the menacing- area, but no one’s asking them to sounding Snake River is home to a leave—on this popular river run- feisty strain of cutthroat trout, ning from Yellowstone National making it one of the most satisfy- Park into Montana, they’re the big ing Western rivers to fish. With attraction. The Madison eventu- picture-perfect scenery and the ally joins up with its “holy trinity” resort town of Jackson within cast- counterparts, the Jefferson and ing distance, this Wyoming river Gallatin, at the Missouri headwa- is popular, but it’s still an angler’s ters near Three Forks, but a lot of paradise. See chapter 11. anglers fish it around West Yellow- stone, where you can find good guides. See chapter 8.

10 The Best Golf Courses • Old Works (Anaconda, MT): wonderfully integrates the rocky Jack Nicklaus has created a course bluffs, the historic nature of the that is as much fun to play as it is old copper-processing sites, and beautiful to look at. The course prairie grasses and sage. See p. 158. c544411 Ch01.qxd 4/9/04 8:45 AM Page 12

12 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF MONTANA & WYOMING

• Teton Pines (Jackson, WY): play from the gold tees, but water You won’t find a more beautiful comes into play on nearly every view from any golf course in the hole. See p. 322. country—except maybe the neigh- • The Powder Horn (Sheridan, boring Jackson Hole club—with WY): Under the majestic Bighorn the granite Grand Teton loom- Mountains, this gorgeous 27-hole ing over every shot. This Arnold course mixes Scottish-style golf, Palmer design is not that long wide-open fairways, and some unless you’re foolish enough to serious target practice. See p. 376.

11 The Best Museums • Lewis and Clark National His- nationally renowned for showcas- toric Trail Interpretive Center ing Montana’s best artists, from (Great Falls, MT; & 406/727- Charles Russell to Deborah But- 8733): This offers a great perspec- terfield and Russell Chatham. See tive on the “Corps of Discovery,” p. 245. from its conception back East • Buffalo Bill Historical Center to its endpoint at the mouth (Cody, WY; & 307/587-4771): of the Columbia River at the An art museum, a firearm gallery, Pacific Ocean. Films, lectures, and the memorabilia of the West’s demonstrations are among the great showman, and exhibits offerings. See p. 189. about the Plains Indians comprise • Yellowstone Art Museum the finest museum in the Rocky (Billings, MT; & 406/256-6804): Mountains. See p. 357. The Yellowstone Art Museum is

12 The Best Performing Arts & Cultural Festivals • International Wildlife Film horse-drawn set. In addition to a Festival (Missoula, MT; & 406/ healthy dose of range rhyme, there 728-9380): This film festival has are arts-and-crafts shows, and become a required festival for booths full of leather. See p. 197. international filmmakers who spe- • Grand Teton Music Festival cialize in wildlife. It goes for a (Jackson, WY; & 307/733-1128): week in early April, and includes Under the energetic direction of panel discussions and workshops, Eiji Oue, the festival gathers musi- as well as screenings of the world’s cians from orchestras around the best wildlife films. See p. 94. country for a summer program of • Montana Cowboy Poetry Gath- classical music, mixed with the ering (Lewistown, MT; & 406/ occasional Duke Ellington tribute. 538-5436): Held each year in Top international soloists appear, mid-August, this is a rhyming and there is a fine chamber-music good time for the bowlegged and program, too. See p. 328.