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Home , Alcova Dam, Big Nose George, Casper Mountain, Department of the Platte, Elk Mountain Hotel, Fort Bridger

SECTION 5 I SOUTHCENTRAL AREA NCLUDING INCLUDING CASPER, RIVERTON, LANDER AND RAWLINS

post provided a link between East and West in C communications and supply transport. The Post ASPER at Platte Bridge, also known as Fort Clay, Camp S OUTHCENTRAL

Davis, and Camp Payne, was associated with two , R significant military campaigns, the Expedition of 1855-1856 and the IVERTON Expedition of 1858-1859. Furthermore, the mili- tary camp played an important role in Indian-

Euro-American relations. , L A

The post at Platte Bridge protected the most AND ANDER REA important river crossing in , in the most hostile area of Wyoming, aiding in travel and communication on the Oregon . Undoubtedly, the camp also played a significant role in relations between Plains Indian tribes and R

the U S. Army as the post acted out it’s role as AWLINS peacekeeper, protector, and aggressor.” Memorial Cemetery and Mausoleum This site is located lust north of the Evansville Elementary School near the corner of 5th and Albany Streets on a tract of land known as the “ Memorial Park.” This is the burial tomb of six skeletons recovered from an unmarked cemetery believed to be circa 1850s. Research indicated that the initial remains consist- ed of four males and two females. Later three North of Rawlins skeletons, believed to be Native Americans, were included in the interment. Five of the skeletons, and hunted the buffalo. In addition is Food including one of the females, were clothed in mili- 1 the location of the “Mysterious Cross.” tary uniform, parts of which were recovered with Section 5 military buttons and insignia attached. Army Evansville Richard’s (Reshaw’s) Bridge, reports suggest that two of the dead may have Pop. 2,255, Elev. 5,136 Trading Post and Settlement been Sergeant John McCall, Co. E, 4th Artillery, Named for W.T. Evans, early homesteader and In operation from 1853-1965, constructed by who died in the area September 6, 1858 and the blacksmith, Evansville was the original site of the John Baptiste Richard, a French Canadian, this second a Private John Morgan. Co. A, 7th Infantry, Crossing for pioneers, used as early as was the first bridge across the who died August 25, 1858. The nine skeletons 1834. From 1851 to 1853, the Reshaw Bridge in this part of the country. It was also the first pri- were interred in the mausoleum April 12, 1963. stood here, an engineering marvel of its day. The vate business in Central Wyoming. The structure At the time of discovery the evidence indi- Sioux burned the bridge when Fort Clay (an had 12 arches, was 835 feet long and 18 feet cated that a small, little-known community adjunct to Fort Casper) was abandoned after the wide, and rested on 23 piers or cribs of hewn existed at the location between 1847–1867, and Oregon Trail was rerouted south. With the dis- timbers filled with stone. Emigrants were charged was later destroyed by Indians. Symbols, words, covery of oil, Evansville became a refinery town. as much as $5 per wagon during high water, and letters written or stenciled on the boards Now it is a suburb of Casper. thereby ensuring a more than adequate income to used in the manufacture of the coffins indicated the partners in the endeavor. that the remains had been in the ground for at Historic Evansville Skylar Scott, in “Military Camps at Camp least 100 years. One of the best-kept secrets in Wyoming is the Payne” in a report on excavations at Camp vast amount of history held within the bound- Payne, edited by David Eckles of the Office of Military Camps Bevis and Payne and Fort Clay aries of the small Central Wyoming town of the Wyoming State Archaeologist, in The These camps were in existence at various Evansville. Here can be found the Triangular Wyoming Archaeologist, Volume 28, Number 3 times from 1855 to 1859. Lieutenant Deshler Survey Point of Monument Hill, the highest point and 4, 1985, states, and members of the 6th Infantry, 10th Infantry looking north across the Platte River, Richard’s “Though not occupied over a long period of and 4th Artillery staffed Fort Clay in November (Reshaw’s) Bridge and Trading Post, a Memorial time by the Army, the military camp 1855. The fort was renamed Camp Davis in Cemetery and Mausoleum, Military Camps Davis at Richard’s Bridge played a significant role in the March 1856 but was abandoned in November and Payne and Fort Clay, Stroud’s Crossing and affairs of the region. The post protected a strategic 1856. Captain Joseph Roberts of the 4th Artillery Cabin, the convergence of the Oregon, , crossing of the North Platte River on the Oregon later established “Post at Platte Bridge,” which Mormon Pioneer, , Bridger, and Trail, and played a protective role with emigrants Bozeman , and where the Sioux, and a punitive one with hostile Indian tribes. The Continued on page 252

Casper Jan Feb March April May June July Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec Annual Average Max. Temperature (F) 33.5 37.8 45.3 56.0 66.7 78.6 87.4 85.8 74.3 60.5 44.2 35.2 58.8 Average Min. Temperature (F) 12.7 16.4 21.5 29.4 38.6 47.2 54.2 52.7 42.7 32.5 22.1 15.1 32.1 Average Total Precipitation (in.) 0.52 0.57 0.90 1.43 2.10 1.39 1.14 0.62 0.94 1.01 0.73 0.55 11.91 Average Total SnowFall (in.) 10.2 10.0 12.9 12.4 4.0 0.2 0.0 0.0 1.4 6.2 10.4 10.3 78.1 Average Snow Depth (in.) 1 1 1 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 1 1 0 Wind Speed ( mph / kmh ) 17 / 27 16 / 25 15 / 23 13 / 22 12 / 20 11 / 18 11 / 17 11 / 17 12 / 19 13 / 21 15 / 24 17 / 27 Wind Direction SW SW SW SW SW WSW WSW SW SW SW SW SW www.ultimatewyoming.com 249 Section 2 All Wyoming Area Codes are 307 Section 1 Section 5 Section 4

SECTION 5 NORTH

250 Ultimate Wyoming Atlas and Travel Encyclopedia Section 3 I NCLUDING C ASPER S OUTHCENTRAL , R IVERTON , L A NE AND ANDER REA Section 6 R AWLINS Section 5

www.ultimatewyoming.com 251 SECTION 5 SOUTH Section 4 All Wyoming Area Codes are 307 Section 5

Colorado

Continued from page 249 developed and incorporated in 1923 where the there. She was a Casper school teacher and a pas- town is currently located. senger in the plane flown by Burt Cole when the became known as Camp Payne and was later The Chicago and Northwestern Railroad accident occurred. Cole survived the accident, abandoned in May 1859. came out of to Lusk and Douglas in although he was injured. There is a small exhibit of artifacts from exca- 1886, Glenrock in 1887, and Casper in 1988. The airport at Evansville was the first airport vations of Richard’s Trading Post and Camps The Cheyenne and Burlington Railroad incorpo- to serve Casper, predating the Wardwell Airport Davis and Payne. A portion of Camp Payne is still rated in 1867. Passenger services were discontin- and the present Natrona County Airport. Cole’s preserved nearby, where approximately 40 stone ued in 1969. plane was the first one in Casper. No evidence of fireplaces used by soldiers have been identified. the runways remain. Mysterious Concrete Cross Reprinted from brochure compiled by the Evansville Stroud’s Railroad Crossing and Cabin The crumbling cross is approximately 14 feet Historic Preservation Commission. Located in the area of the W. T. Evans original by 16 feet by 16 inches. It is thought that it may ranch land which includes the town of Evansville. be a memorial to Maud Toomey, a woman killed T Edness K. Wilkins State Park Land areas were divided into sections in the early in an airplane accident at this location in 1920. 6 mi E of Casper off I-25, exit 182 1800s by the government. An old area map She was the first Wyoming woman to die in an Edness K. Wilkins State Park is a serene day-use shows Strouds where Lathrop Feed is now locat- aviation-related accident. park where families, nature lovers and those ed. Stroud’s was the original name of the town Maud Toomey was a sister of Howard Toomey looking for solitude can enjoy the huge old cot- started in 1888. Later the town of Evansville was of Newcastle, who owned the Toomey Flour Mill tonwoods as they cast reflections on the historic

252 Ultimate Wyoming Atlas and Travel Encyclopedia I NCLUDING C ASPER S OUTHCENTRAL , R IVERTON , L A NE AND ANDER REA R Section 6 AWLINS Section 5

Legend

00 Locator number (matches numeric listing in section) f Campsite (number matches North Platte River and lend shade to visitors. A 00 number in campsite chart) pond, with its sandy beach, is an oasis in the 0 Miles 11 20 summer months and the North Platte River pro- One inch = approximately 11 miles vides a natural habitat for a variety of wildlife, k Fishing Site (number matches and for fishing, canoeing and rafting. 00 number in fishing chart) The park is named after Edness Kimball Wilkins, 25-year Wyoming legislator and area resi- dent who died in 1980 at the age of 84. In 1981 Rest stop the land was purchased and almost entirely fund- ed with General Fund monies. The purchase price Interstate was approximately $380,000 and the total state investment through 1993 was $1.3 million. U.S. Highway Edness K. Wilkins State Park, containing 315 acres, was once nothing but a rock quarry. However, since master planning began in 1982, Paved State or County Road the area has taken on a massive transformation. Initial efforts focused on the installation of a road Gravel/unpaved road system and parking areas. Plantings, seeding and

www.ultimatewyoming.com 253 All Wyoming Area Codes are 307

EVANSVILLE HISTORIC AREA

Map by Evansville Historic Preservation Commission

pruning improved the vegetation in the area. As you walk along the paths through the river bluffs to enter the north bank trail. Barriers, fencing and signage allowed for continued park, notice the many bird houses placed on trees Jacob and the children reached Linn use of designated roads while certain areas at strategic heights to attract specific birds. Patient County, Oregon, and several descendants still returned to their natural state. Like the master pot- bird watchers may be rewarded with sightings of reside in that area. ter with a lump of unworked clay, the de- signers. birds from both the eastern and areas of The grave was restored and fence construct- planners and operators combined their energies to the United States. ed here in 1987, by the Oregon-California Trails Section 5 provide citizens with one of the most attractive Courtesy of Wyoming State Parks and Historic Sites Association. It is a few feet from the original site. small parks in the Wyoming state park system. Today a visitor can utilize picnic tables, grills, H Reshaw’s (Richard’s) Bridge: group shelters, playgrounds and a launch- ing National Historic Trail ramp for canoes or rafts. The handicapped acces- Curtis St at the North Platte River in Evansville sible fishing pier, the only one like it in the state, This was the site used from 1852-1865 for a has become one of the finest amenities provided wooden toll bridge crossing the Platte River to visitors. An additional nearly three miles of which served thousands of emigrants. The handicapped accessible hard-surfaced paths pro- Reshaw Bridge put the Mormon Ferry at Platte vide visitors with an opportunity to view some of Bridge Station out of business. the finest wildlife in the area. Anglers can try their fishing luck in the North Platte River and H Quintina Snodderly swimmers can take a refreshing dip at the park On private land in Natrona County swimming area. A pioneer mother, Quintina Snodderly died near This park is a gem for birdwatchers where here on June 25, 1852. A native of Tennessee, L Shilo Inn – Evansville they can add to their life lists. The park contains Quintina, with her husband, Jacob, and their 739 Luker Ln in Evansville. 237-1335 or several different habitats: it offers a river, a cot- eight children (five girls and three boys) had 800-222-2244. shiloinns.com tonwood grove and open areas. Therefore, many lived in Clarinda County, , for several years The Shilo Inn located off I-25 at Curtis Road bird varieties are drawn to the park year round. before embarking on their trip across the plains. offers 101 guestrooms, near shopping, entertain- In a cooperative effort with the Wyoming They were members of a wagon train captained ment, and many parks, museums, and historical Game & Fish Department, a variety of nesting by Rev. Joab Powell, which had left St. Joseph, sites. Guestrooms include in-room iron, hair ponds and wildlife viewing blinds have been devel- , in the spring of 1852. dryer, data ports, free local calls first-run movies, oped in conjunction with the Wyoming Wildlife Quintina’s grave was discovered and exca- entertainment, and satellite TV. The hotel offers Worth the Watching program. A riparian habitat area vated in 1974. An examination of the skeleton Free high Speed Internet Access, guest laundry, for water-type birds has been included. revealed the cause of death. Most of the ribs indoor pool, spa, sauna and steam room, free air- The local chapter of the National Audubon had been crushed, probably by the heavy port shuttle, and complimentary continental Society has identified over 50 different kinds of wheels of a covered wagon. The skeleton was breakfast. The Golden Dragon restaurant is locat- nesting birds and a list of over 200 different in otherwise perfect condition, with fragments ed in the hotel for dining. Ample parking accom- species of smaller birds. It is possible to see yel- of a green ribbon bow still around the neck. modates horse trailers and trucks. Winter guests low billed cuckoos, cormorants, bald eagles, gold- The Powell wagon train probably crossed the appreciate the exterior electrical outlets for bat- en eagles, sharp shinned hawks and up to 16 North Platte River at this point and the accident tery chargers or block heaters. AAA, senior, cor- species of ducks. may have occurred as the wagons climbed the porate, and government rates are available,

254 Ultimate Wyoming Atlas and Travel Encyclopedia and a group of fur traders (spon- sored by ) were the first Europeans to travel near Casper. Stranded here I

during the cold, hungry winter of 1812, they built NCLUDING the first rock cabin in Wyoming and kept it warm with buffalo hides. There was enough game around to sustain them through the winter months, but a visit from a band of Arapaho convinced the party C

to head east towards Nebraska until spring. ASPER The Astorians had blazed the trail, and the S

route through Casper now became frequently used. OUTHCENTRAL

Crossing the North Platte River still proved chal- , R

lenging until 1847, when the Mormons arrived IVERTON and built a ferry, the first business run in the area. The Mormon Ferry did not remain the only ferry for long, and in 1849 travelers crowded the shores of the Platte, eager to head west and find gold. , L A NE AND ANDER

Other businesses sprung up as well, including a REA Pony Express station and a telegraph office. In 1852, French-Canadian trader John Baptiste Richard (pronounced “Reshaw” by locals) came up with the idea of building a toll bridge

across the Platte, one of several bridge projects he R

spearheaded. First crossed in 1853, the bridge AWLINS could save up to a week’s travel time, and cost less than the ferries. It was not long before the ferries went out of business. During 1854, Casper, Wyoming Richard made $17,000 from passing travelers, a considerable sum in those days. children 12 and under stay free with adult. Shilo tank farm, and host of oil fields for its income. Then, in 1859, Louis Guinard built a newer, Inns is reputed for cleanliness, friendliness, and a There has been a long-standing debate between longer bridge, first crossed in 1860. Travelers pre- motto of “Affordable Excellence.” Cheyenne and Casper regarding which city is ferred to cross Guinard’s bridge, because it Wyoming’s biggest and most important. Casper seemed safer. After all, Richard’s bridge had seen prides itself on having the only statewide newspa- a lot of traffic in the preceding seven years. 2 Food, Lodging per, the Casper Star-Tribune, Wyoming’s biggest Guinard made so much money that myths arose shopping center, the Eastridge Mall, and top- regarding him sprinkling gold at travelers feet to Casper notch medical services at Wyoming Medical repay them for the wealth they’d provided him. Pop. 50,000, Elev. 5,123 Center. There are a host of recreational activities The site became known as the Platte Bridge Section 5 Known as the “Oil Capitol of the Rockies,” to keep Casperites entertained, and educational Station when the army arrived. Two dramatic Casper now has a broader economic base. The and cultural opportunities to keep them enlight- battles took place here with members of the city still depends, however, largely on its refinery, ened. Casper is also rich in Western history. Lakota, Cheyenne, and Arapaho tribes in 1865.

www.ultimatewyoming.com 255 Amoco Rd CASPER

189

Salt Creek Hwy Bryan Stock Trail

20 26 25 K St 6 3rd St F St 1 Yellowstone Ave 87 187 186 188 4 185 25 1st St 11 3 2nd St 2 5 All Wyoming Area Codes are 307 20 26

Walsh Dr Wolcott St Wolcott Poplar St 12th St Fort 13th St 7 Casper 15th St Country Club Rd 15th St

e Dr Cy Ave 9 21st St Colleg

10

Wolf Cr 39th Map not to scale Eagle Dr 8 Wyoming Blvd t S

Section 5 L St

Ove N Platte Rd Center S David St Park St Beech St Grant St

Glenarm K St Bryan Evensville Rd rland Trl Wolcott St Hereford Ln CASPER H St Center St 6 G St Wolcott St DOWNTOWN Bryan Stock Trl St John Kimbell St Elma St Beech St Durbin St Lincoln St McKinley St Jackson St Washington St Jefferson St Marys St F St 186B 25 20 20 25 188 187 Lenox St Lowell St St 4 ve Burlington Ave Yellowstone A 186A 26 C St Ave tone B St lows Yel A St e Siskin St Robin St Lark St ch St ch 26 20 Av Ave Lincoln St Lincoln ta Ave a

Bee k

Ave Durbin St Durbin David St Nichols Ave Grant St

Wolcott St 1st St Lowell St 1st St a 20 26 Center St ity Ave s w Io Minneso Nebras 5 Yellowstone Hwy 2nd St Penn Ave2nd St e Country Club Rd Univer 3 Industrial Av one Hwy Elk St 3rd St Walnut St wst est Ave Beverly St Northway St

Lenox St

idw Wilson St Kenwood St Yello M Fenway St E 4th St Huber Dr

Park St m St m 5th St

5th St Kimball St

McKinley St Jefferson St El Oak St

Spruce St 6th St E 6th St Kirk Ave Map not to scale Conwell St 7th St S Beverly St E 7th St Ash St

256 Ultimate Wyoming Atlas and Travel Encyclopedia The first resulted in the heroic death of Lt. ness room, locker rooms, game room, indoor Caspar Collins, for whom the town was eventu- park and several multi-purpose rooms and meet- ally named. Collins was said to have been trying ing areas. The facility is open 7 days a week. I to rescue a fellow soldier when his horse went NCLUDING the wrong way and carried him into the Indian M Coldwell Banker Lindsey Realty throng. He went down with pistols blazing and 146 S Elk in Casper. 232-0132. www.wyocoldwellbanker.com was found later shot full of arrows, some accounts say half-buried. The second battle Centrally located in Casper, Coldwell Banker Lindsey Realty offers full service brokerage in the C involved Sgt. Amos Custard, who also died ASPER along with his men in a fierce fight to protect form of residential, commercial, recreational farm and ranch and property management. Owners, S the supply wagons they were bringing in. The OUTHCENTRAL name “Caspar” was misspelled when the infor- Ceil and Dick Lindsey are living their dream in , R God’s country, also known as Wyoming. They mation was telegraphed to the east, and so the IVERTON newly established military base was dubbed Ft. have lived, worked, and played in Wyoming since Casper. The name Ft. Collins had already been 1978 and offer their vast experience. Ten full time used in Colorado, in honor of his father, agents at Coldwell Banker Lindsey Realty offer over 93 years of real estate experience. They will , L

William Collins. The elder Collins was com- A

hold out a helping hand for all your real estate AND ANDER mander at Ft. Laramie at the time. REA Ft. Casper was closed in 1867, and its com- needs. Stop by for a cup of coffee or give them a ponents were salvaged and moved to build Ft. call and get on their mailing list. Fetterman, which was easier to keep re-supplied from Ft. Laramie. So much of the fort disap- Stay a Day, peared so quickly that local rumors sprung up R about Indians burning it. Old Ft. Caspar (spelled a Week or AWLINS properly this time) was rebuilt in 1936 according to Caspar Collins’ own 1863 floor plans. In 1971, A While… it became listed on the National Register of Historical Places. The railroad came in 1888, and the official town site developed three miles east of where the • 100% Non-Smoking fort had been. In 1889, the city of Casper became incorporated. Many renegades were • Full Kitchens attracted to this wild place, and the air was often filled with gunfire. The first public building was • Business Center a jail, and residents slept light. Vigilantism was (Cable Network) rampant. Nearby, in what was to become the huge Salt Creek Field, oil was struck in 1889, • Fitness Center and a flurry of claim jumpers rushed in, leaving M 2nd Street, REALTORS Section 5 behind the lives they’d known in the east for the 604 E 2nd St in Casper. 577-7355 or • Coin Operated Laundry promise of “black gold.” The first refinery was 877-332-7355. www.2ndstreet-realtors.com • In-Room Internet Access built in 1895, and Casper would never again be 2nd Street, REALTORS® is owned by three sea- free of the influence of oil. soned professionals—Mary B. Moore, With the oil came coarse workers, dishonest Broker/owner, CRS, GRI; Tricia Lichty, Associate businessmen, prostitutes, gambling, and other Broker/owner, GRI; and Ramona Kuhn, Associate threats to polite society. Honest people came Broker/owner, CRS, GRI. This dedicated team is 111 SOUTH WILSON STREET too, including farmers, lumberjacks, and ranch- one of the fastest growing offices in Casper. They ers, and schools and churches emerged between have grown from three to nine licensed agents in CASPER, WYOMING 82601 the saloons. Women were only permitted to less than one year, and are still expanding. Over walk on the left side of Main Street, across from 72 years of combined real estate experience gives (307) 232-5100 the saloons. Laws were passed to prevent the them what it takes to move you or your business discharge of firearms within the city limits. The to the next level. 2nd Street, REALTORS® occu- FAX: (307) 232-5197 residents had big plans for Casper to become pies the 1923 flat iron building that once was a the capitol city of both Wyoming and the West popular donut shop. The team has restored, as a whole. Some of the tallest buildings in revamped and revitalized it to make it the won- Reservations Wyoming were built here in the early part of derful office it is today. Take the Nickel Tour; the 20th century. The town boomed until 1929, enjoy the building, the company and the friend- 1-866-500-1110 when the population diminished by half after ship of the 2nd Street, REALTORS®. the stock market crashed. World War II brought Adjacent to the another boom, the 1960s a bust, the 1970s a Food, Lodging boom, a bust again in the 1980s, and the cycle 4 Wyoming Medical Center continues today. Still, Casper is seeing the growth of more sta- 5 Food, Lodging bilizing industries, including tourism, which emphasizes its importance as the historic T Nicolaysen Art Museum “Crossroads to the West.” and Discovery Center Wyoming Tidbits 400 E Collins Dr in Casper. 235-5247 3 Food, Lodging A refurbished power plant houses this collection In 1922, the -based Producers and of artwork, including both traditional and con- Refiners Corporation built an oil refinery in T Casper Recreation temporary artists. New exhibits can be seen every Carbon County. Located on the Union Pacific couple of months in the six spacious galleries. Center and Ice Arena mainline at a cost of ten million dollars, the The facility serves as a site for a wide variety of Upstairs, kids can enjoy learning about both art programs and drop in activities for Casper resi- and science, and how sometimes the two go hand town of Parco included a central plaza with a dents and visitors. It is the focal point of recre- in hand. Call ahead to find out about current fountain, buried electrical lines, and profes- ation services in the community. The Recreation guest speakers, visiting music ensembles, and sional landscaping. The town was touted as Center features a gymnasium for basketball and other special events. Thursday nights, admission “The Wonder Town of Wyoming.” volleyball, racquetball courts, weight room, fit- is free to all. www.ultimatewyoming.com 257 All Wyoming Area Codes are 307

6 Food, Lodging and of the trails they traveled. The 27,000 square foot, multi-million dollar facility is dedicated to commemorate the emigrants who traveled west- ward in search of new lives, new land, new wealth or religious freedom in a raw, wild land few of them knew anything about. The story is

Section 5 told in the pioneers’ own words taken from thou- sands of authentic emigrant diaries and journals. Visitors to the Center’s seven galleries will spend quality time with all of the people who played a role in America’s west, ranging from the native peoples who established the travel routes the emigrants would later follow to the construc- tion crews building the first transcontinental rail- road, whose “Golden Spike” foretold the end of the . In between, visitors will S Blue Heron Books & Espresso meet fur trappers, mountainmen, missionaries, 201 E 2nd St in Casper. explorers and early hope-filled farm families in 265-3774 or 800-585-3774. covered wagons headed for a rumored “land of www.BlueHeronWyoming.com. T National Historic Trails milk and honey” in Oregon’s . [email protected] Interpretive Center Next they will encounter wild and reckless Located in the heart of downtown Casper, Blue 1501 N Poplar in Casper, N of I-25 Exit 189. “Forty-Niners” in a rush to California’s gold fields Heron Books is the place to go if you’re looking 261-7700. www.wy.blm.gov/nhtic and thoughtful Mormon families pushing hand- for a good book. They have a large selection of The names are legend in western history. The carts toward a new freedom in the valley of the regional books and Wyoming authors, unusual Oregon Trail. The Pony Express Trail. The Great Salt Lake. Young, wiry Pony Express riders, children’s books, animal welfare books, needle- . The Mormon Pioneer Trail. drivers and telegraph construction work and crafting books, Catholic books and They speak of the nation’s expansion beyond the crews round out the story. items, and much more. You can find many gifts wide Missouri all the way to the Pacific. They Throughout the galleries, viewers are treated for the book lover such as book covers, book- conjure images of slow-moving covered wagon to historically authentic life-sized displays depict- marks, and book lights. They even have a selec- trains stretching to the distant horizon. They ing life on the trails. Interactive exhibits allow vis- tion of greeting cards for whatever the occasion. recall stories of hardy pioneers facing untold itors to experience first-hand what it was like to It is a bright, cheerful and comfy atmosphere to hardships in their quest for a better life on the pull a handcart, cross the flood-swollen North sit, relax, crack a book or enjoy a beverage. other side of the shining mountains. All of these Platte River in a covered wagon, feel the bone- Serving espresso drinks, coffee, tea, iced drinks, trails are now designated as National Historic chilling cold of a November night at Martin’s juices, and biscotti. Blue Heron Books also Trails. All of them came through a place that Cove, sit in an Overland Stagecoach or mount a offers free gift wrapping, no fees for special would become Casper, Wyoming. Pony Express horse. orders, and the ability to order your books The National Historic Trails Interpretive A stop at the National Historic Trails online at their website. Center in Casper tells the story of the pioneers Interpretive Center is the best first step in any

258 Ultimate Wyoming Atlas and Travel Encyclopedia traveler’s personal mission of discovery and became Wyoming’s first junior college in 1945 adventure in Wyoming. The Center is open 8 and was initially located on the third floor of a.m. to 7 p.m. daily from April through October. Natrona County High School. The first fall I

Winter hours are 9 a.m. to 4:30 p.m. enrollment was 73. As enrollment continued to Don’t You NCLUDING Reprinted from museum brochure. climb, the college hired more faculty and expanded its curricular offerings and its facilities Deserve the T Casper Planetarium to meet the demands of steady growth. The 904 N Poplar St in Casper. 577-0310 campus now covers 125 acres with 27 buildings. Best? C

Built in 1966 by the Casper school system, public In the fall semester 2000, the enrollment was ASPER programs are presented throughout the year. 3,972; including 1,852 full-time and 2,120 part- S

Open daily during the summer, shows start at 8 time students. The student population came OUTHCENTRAL p.m. A nominal fee is charged. from all Wyoming counties, 36 other states, and , R

12 foreign countries. IVERTON T Casper Events Center 1 Events Dr in Casper. 577-3030 8 Food This state-of-the-art complex is on a hill overlook- ing Casper and the scenic Platte River Valley. , L T Crimson Dawn A NE AND ANDER Hosting rodeos, circuses and major touring acts is Museum and Park REA just a part of the many events staged at this facility. 1620 Crimson Dawy Rd S of Casper near the Hogadon Ski Area. 235-1303 H City of Casper At entrance to Parkway Plaza Motel This magical place atop reflects the life and wondrous imagination of The city of Casper, established near the site of Neal Forsling: painter, storyteller, and one-time R old , formerly Platte Bridge Station, homesteader in these parts. Born in Missouri, AWLINS was named in honor of Lieut. Caspar Collins, she came here initially to marry a lawyer in the who lost his life in an Indian battle there on July 1930s, but after a bitter divorce ended up mak- 26, 1865. The Fort was one of the small army ing a life for herself and her children in this posts which guarded the Oregon and Emigrant area. Later, she married rancher Jim Forsling, Own a part Trail and the transcontinental telegraph line dur- who joined in her frontier-style life on the ing the mid-1800s. The first railroad came to mountain. When he died in a blizzard at the Casper in 1888, and the town remained “Rail’s age of 38, she found herself alone again, but her of Wyoming! End” until 1905 when the line was extended to love for the wilderness sustained her. This love Lander. Casper’s early economy was based on was expressed in her artwork and stories, which cattle and sheep raising. Oil had been discov- she shared with area children and adults alike, ered in the vicinity and in 1895 the first oil especially on Midsummer’s Eve. These involved refinery was built. The industry has developed a variety of mystical creatures who lived in the since then until Casper is now the principal oil woods nearby, including leprechauns, witches, city in Wyoming. and forest spirits. Section 5 Erected 1965 by Wyoming State Archives Neal gave her land and her cabin to the and Historical Department and the Wyoming county shortly before she passed away in the State Historical Society. 1970s. It is now a public park, where visitors may see shrines made by Forsling for her crea- 7 Food tures. Her paintings can be seen in the cabin, and every Midsummer’s Eve, a celebration of the T Tate Geological Museum mystical takes place here. At Casper College The Tate Collection features dinosaur and other T Garden Creek Falls State Hwy 252 S of Casper ancient fossil remains, petrified wood, meteorites, Paleo-Indian artifacts, and other intriguing and This 50 foot fall south of Casper is one of the semi-precious stones, including an extensive only waterfalls in central Wyoming. A steep and assortiment of jade samples. very beautiful day hike. Off of State Highway 252, you can see the canyon cut by Garden Creek H The Armory at the base of Casper Mountain, and several trails LINDSEY REALTY Campus of Casper College in Casper provide opportunities to explore. Casper’s unique National Guard Armory was (307) 232-0132 built here in 1930 to house the Headquarters H Reshaw’s Bridge, 1852-65 1-866-232-0134 Troop of the 115th Cavalry Regiment. The Reshaw Park in Evansville indoor field provided room for training both Thousands of emigrants following the Oregon- 2233 East 2nd • Casper, WY horses and men, and even hosted the occa- California Trail crossed the North Platte River www.wyocoldwellbanker.com sional polo match until the regiment was called over a bridge built here by John Richard to active duty on February 24, 1941. (Reshaw). The $5 toll during high water saved The first level housed the drill area, horse swimming or ferrying across, and saved count- Casper Lions Club member, Lee McCune. The stalls, blacksmith shop, wagon shop, and equip- less lives in the process. Casper Lions Club was the Trail’s major benefac- ment room. The second level contained the hay Fort Clay, also known as Camp Davis, was tor. The Trail provides three bridges, a wide vari- loft, a viewing area, and a ballroom with hard- established here in 1855 to protect the bridge. ety of plant life, and 37 stations with plaques wood floors. Camp Payne was also located here in 1858-59. printed in Braille and English, along with guide In 1987, the structure was razed to improve ropes. Each station vividly explains a unique part traffic flow around Casper College. This monu- V Lee McCune Braille Trail of nature’s world. The Trail is a component of the ment reflects the fond memories of Armory 10 mi S of Casper in Casper Mountain Park under the U.S. activities shared by many Casper citizens. The trail was dedicated in 1975 “to the visually Department of the Interior. handicapped and the sighted of America to enjoy M Casper College God’s Unique World of Nature.” The Trail was a 9 Food 125 College Dr in Casper. 268-2110 or dream come true for teacher Ed Strube. The Trail 800-442-2963. www.caspercollege.edu became a community effort and after four years T Goodstein Foundation Art Casper College overlooks the city from the and 8,000 hours of volunteer labor the hand-dug Gallery, Library, and Archives foothills of Casper Mountain. The college path was completed. The Trail was named for At Casper College. 268-2269 www.ultimatewyoming.com 259 T Wyoming Game and Fish H Fort Caspar Interpretive Signs Eadsville Department, Casper At Old Fort Casper Eadsville, a mining ghost town, is situated 12 3030 Energy Ln in Casper. 473-3400 Fort Caspar miles due south of Casper on top of Casper Come see the taxidermist displays of native These fort buildings were reconstructed on the Mountain. It was founded by Charles W. Eads in Wyoming creatures, and find out more about original site in 1936 by the Works Progress 1891 after he had staked a 600’ x 1,500’ mining wildlife, hunting, and fishing in the West. Administration. The WPA was a government pro- claim around a large spring. Word had spread gram created during the Great Depression to that large deposits of precious minerals were found — gold, silver, lead, and copper. Lots were 10 Food, Lodging provide jobs for the unemployed. Prior to his death on July 26, 1885 Lt. sold in the town in 1891 - 1892, and about a T The Oregon Trail Road Caspar W. Collins made several diagrams of mil- dozen cabins were built. Foundations of three Take the Poison Spider Road west from Mills. itary posts in . This reconstruc- cabins still remain today. Some 40 to 50 people Turn south on County Road 319 after 12 miles. tion was based on his diagram of the fort. lived there hoping to find a of gold and Road re-joins State Highway 220 just north of In November of 1865 the post known as silver. Some copper was mined, and traces of Independence Rock. Platte Bridge Station was officially renamed Fort gold and silver were found. Asbestos and Travelers willing to drive on improved dirt roads Caspar in honor of Lt. Collins. feldspar were economically mined. The “spar” is can follow the Oregon Trail Road as an alternative still being mined today after nearly 100 years. The Battle at Platte Bridge to State Highway 220. This road follows the actu- The miners finally gave up and abandoned Early on the morning of July 16, 1865 Lt. the town in 1905 or 1906. Numerous artifacts

All Wyoming Area Codes are 307 al trail ruts for 41.5 miles and includes such his- Caspar Collins led a troop of men to reinforce toric sites as Emigrant Gap (mile 8.5), Avenue of were uncovered in an archeological excavation an army supply train coming into Platte Bridge Rock (mile 19), Willow Spring (mile 27.5) and of 7,800 feet. Station. Only a mile west of the post, the group Prospect Hill (mile 29), the site of another BLM was ambushed by members of the Sioux, Casper-Natron County-State Founding interpretive site. Try this in dry weather only. Cheyenne and Arapahoe nations. Inquire at Fort Caspar, the Casper Chamber of On April 9, 1889, application was made to The Indians were anxious to avenge the Commerce Information Center or BLM offices for have the town of Casper incorporated. John losses they sustained at the Sand Creek advice and directions. The route is not well Merritt made the application in Rawlins, Massacre the previous year. They hoped to marked! Source: BLM brochure. Wyoming since Casper was in Carbon County destroy Platte Bridge Station in this attack. at that time. On July 8, 1889, Casper was T Fort Caspar Museum The Indian force heavily outnumbered the incorporated and George Mitchell was elected and Historic Site group led by Collins. During the retreat, four men as the town’s first Mayor. 4001 Fort Caspar Rd, W side of Casper. 235-8462 were killed including the 20-year-old lieutenant. The first act to separate Natrona county The Army renamed Platte Bridge Station in This military post evolved from a previous site from Carbon County was presented to the honor of the young hero. Since a new post in Wyoming legislature in 1888. The county was known as Mormon Ferry Post. Colorado had recently been named in honor of established the first ferry service on the North officially organized on April 8 1890. Natrona Caspar Collins’ father, Col. W.O. Collins, the County derives its name from the mineral, Platte River near this location in June 1847 for the name Fort Caspar was chosen. benefit of all trail travelers. When Louis Guinard natron, which is carbonate of soda. The Territory of Wyoming was formed on spanned the North Platte with a 1,000-foot log The Battle of Red Buttes July 25, 1868, after separating from the Territory bridge in 1859, the post became known as Platte A desperate battle to save a supply train ended of Dakota. In 1869, the first Territorial Bridge Station. This site was one of the last oppor- tragically the same day as the Battle at Platte tunities the pioneers had to cross the river they Bridge. Sgt. Amos Custard and his men were Legislature passed the first Woman’s Suffrage had followed from central Nebraska. The army bringing five supply wagons from the Bill in the Union, thus allowing women in occupied the post from 1862-67. The present fort Sweetwater Station near Independence Rock. Wyoming the right to vote. Wyoming became a is constructed on the original site. It is the center- The group came into view of Platte Bridge state on July 10, 1890. The word, Wyoming, piece of a City of Casper park complex. Station from the direction of Red Buttes about comes from a Delaware Indian word meaning “Upon the Great Plain.” Section 5 This station was used as an overnight stage noon on July 26, 1865. stop, where Richard Burton spent the night on Unaware of the morning’s skirmish, Custard Railroads August 16, 1860. “Our station lay near the upper barely had time to assume a defensive position The first passenger train arrived in this area on crossing or second bridge, a short distance from when a large group of Indians attacked. The June 15, 1888 as part of Fremont, Elkhorn & the town. It was also built of timber at an expense four hour battle ended when the Indians over- of $40,000 about a year ago by Louis Guenot. . . . Missouri Valley Railroad System at the site of an ran the soldier’s position. “old town” that would later become Casper, It was impossible to touch the squaw’s supper: The next day a detachment from Platte the tin cans that contained the coffee were slip- Wyoming. A depot was built after the tracks Bridge Station found the bodies of Sgt. Custard were extended from the “old town” at present pery with grease, and the bacon looked as if it and 20 of his men. The only survivors were three had been dressed side-by-side with ‘boyaux’.” “A” & McKinley streets, to the area of Center and of the five men on advance patrol from the sup- Collins streets. By 1891, extra cars were added The Pony Express also established a station at ply train who made their way here to safety. this complex. Pony riders crossed the North in order to handle the traffic involved with min- Platte River on Guinard’s Bridge, but the route Casper Army Air Base ing ventures on Casper Mountain. The Fremont, stayed close to the north bank of the river until The summer of 1942 work was begun on an air Elkhorn & Missouri Valley, or locally called reaching Red Buttes Crossing, where another base in the Casper area. In four months, four Wyoming central Railroad, extended passenger Pony Express station was located. In 1862, Lt. thousand workers constructed two hundred build- service on to Shoshoni, Riverton, and Lander by Col. William O. Collins sent one company of the ings, laid utility lines, built streets and laid out run- 1906. The line eventually became part of the 11th Ohio Volunteer Cavalry to protect the tele- ways heavy enough for the largest military planes. Chicago & North Western Railroad system. graph line at “Guinard’s Bridge.” The soldiers On August 15, 1942, the first plane landed at the The Chicago, Burlington & Quincy Railroad, moved into Guinard’s abandoned trading base. The official opening was on September 1, commonly referred to as Burlington, reached post/ complex, and named the garri- 1942. Major James A. Moore, a World War I veter- Casper in October, 1913. The link through son “Mormon Ferry Post.” an, was commanding officer. The base was built Canyon connected its Big Horn It was renamed in honor of First Lieutenant to handle four thousand military personnel. It Basin line with the lines in southeastern Caspar Collins who was killed while protecting a became a training area for B-24 Liberators. A Wyoming. Their depot in Casper was built in supply train from Indian attack just north of the massive range was created to the west of the 1915. West of Casper, the consolidation of the bridge. The fort continued to protected emigrant base for bombing practice. The air base was offi- parallel lines of the North Western and trails and the transcontinental telegraph line until cially designated as the Casper Army Air Base. Burlington in 1942-23 made possible the sal- its abandonment in 1867. Once the military The base served as a training center until it was vage of 30,000 tons of rails for the war effort departed, Indians quickly burned the post, but an closed on March 7, 1945. The field became the and the elimination of 87 miles of North excellent reconstruction marks the site. Natrona County International Airport. This replaced Western Tracks. Burlington Northern now has Operated by the city of Casper, the fort has a the first airport, Wardwell Field. Many former base 84.8 miles of track in Natrona County. This rail- museum/visitor center with interpretive exhibits. personnel stayed in the Casper area helping the road has the distinction of being built from Source: and BLM brochure. city to prosper in the post-war years. west to east in Natrona County.

260 Ultimate Wyoming Atlas and Travel Encyclopedia Ella L. Watson (“Cattle Kate”) On Sturday, July 20, 1889, Ella L. Watson, pop- ularly known as “Cattle Kate”, was hanged with I

James Averell in Spring Canyon. The site is NCLUDING located 50 miles southwest of Casper near Independence Rock. Ella and Jim had adjoining homesteads on Horse Creek which flows through the Pathfinder C

Ranch. This energetic couple had built up a ASPER sizeable herd of cattle, and Jim had established S

a road house on the Sweetwater River, located OUTHCENTRAL near the Oregon Trail and the Rawlins to Fort , R

McKinney Stage Road. IVERTON One story of this hanging is that Jim Averell was a saloonkeeper who encouraged ranch hands to drink and carouse. Ella, in this story, raised a fine herd of cattle by exchanging her , L A NE AND ANDER

“favors” for young cattle “appropriated” by the REA ranch hands. The ranchers hung the two to rid the area of rustlers and troublemakers. Another story claims Averell and Watson homesteaded on prime water rights and were

honest law abiding citizens. Jim and Ella were R hanged because the ranchers felt the land that AWLINS was homesteaded was their own grazing land and wished to obtain the valuable water rights. The Mormon Ferry Guinard Bridge The center piece of the Platte Bridge Station Russell in 1899. Some still interred here are and Sebastian Nehring, Co. K., all of 11th Kan. and Fort Caspar was the bridge built here by unknown. The roster shows of 103 men. 92 Vol. Cav. were killed. Louis Guinard in 1859-1860 and used until were under 23 years of age. Lt. Collins was not Also killed the same day near here were Fort Caspar was abandoned in 1867. The yet 21. Casper was named after Caspar Collins. Privates James A. Porter and Adam Culp, both bridge superstructure stood on 28 timber crib- of Co. I, 11th Kan. Vol. Cav. bings filled with rock and gravel. Not counting Platte Bridge Cemetery the approaches, the bridge was 810 feet long You may be surprised that no one is buried Goose Egg Ranch and 17 feet wide. The total cost of construc- under these stone markers. They represent The Goose Egg Ranch first received some notori- tion was estimated at $40,000 dollars. The some of the soldiers who died while stationed ety when Owen Wister featured it in his book, toll for wagons to cross was $1.00 to $6.00, at Platte Bridge Station (Fort Caspar). The army The Virginian. In the novel, this is where the cow- determined by the height of the river. An removed the bodies originally located here and boys exchanged the babies’ blankets, and after Section 5 additional toll was charged for animals and reinterred them at Fort D. A. Russell in 1899. the dance, the mothers carried home the wrong people. This bridge symbolized the changes In 1926, members of the Civilian children. The ranch and house site were located being shaped by the expansion of America Conservation Corps unearthed three skeletons 10 miles south of Casper on the north bank of during the middle 19th Century. while working at this site. These bodies were the North Platte River, at Bessemer Bend. reburied under the large monument to your left. The Searight Brothers built the house in Salt Creek Oil Field It is almost certain that other people are 1883 and lived there until 1886. The lumber, The famous Salt Creek oil field is located in buried on the fort grounds. During the days of hardware, and materials used in the construc- Natrona County, 40 miles north of Casper. the great emigration along the Oregon Trail, this tion of the building was hauled by freight teams Representative Stephen W. Downey was the area served as a pioneer cemetery. from Cheyenne, a distance of more than 225 first man to acquire land at Salt Creek in 1883, miles. They then sold the ranch to J.M. Carey a after the discovery of the Jackass Spring oil The “Mormon” Ferry future Governor of Wyoming. seep. The discovery oil well in the area was First commercial ferry on the Platte River was The beautiful stone home slowly deteriorat- drilled in March of 1889 in the Shannon pool. established 1/2 mile south of here in June ed, and despite efforts by local historians to Mr. Shannon later built a small oil refinery in 1847 by “Mormon” pioneers on their way to save the ranch house, the building was demol- Casper in 1895 to process his oil. the valley of the Great Salt Lake. Brigham Young ished in July, 1951. The main Salt Creek oil field was opened directed nine men to remain to operate the with the discovery of oil at the Dutch No. 1 ferry. They wee Thomas Grover, Captain John S. Bridger and Bozeman Trails location in October, 1908. It initally produced Higby, Luke S. Johnson, Appleton M. Harmon, The discovery of gold in Montana in 1862 cre- 150 barrels of oil per day. As the field was Edmund Ellsworth, Francis M. Pomeroy, William ated a rush of miners traveling to Virginia city. developed and expanded, many of the Salt Empey, James Davenport and Benjamin F. The most direct routes were through Wyoming Creek wells were famous for being gushers. Stewart. The first passengers were Missourians on the Bridger and Bozeman trails. In the spring of 1863, John Bozeman, a miner from Georgia, After 20 wells were producing oil in Salt Creek, bound for Oregon. The ferry was made of two pioneered a route leaving the Franco-Wyoming Oil Company decided to build large cottonwood canoes fastened by cross Oregon/California/ near Fort a 5,000 barrel of oil per day refinery on 20 pieces and covered with slabs. It was operated Fetterman and traveled east of the Big Horn acres located immediately east of Highland with oars. The ferry operated until 1852. Cemetery. Transportation of large amounts of oil Mountains through the Powder River Country. to the Casper refineries was a problem until the Site of old Platte Bridge This area was hunting grounds claimed by the completion of two pipelines in December 1911. South side: Sioux, Cheyenne, and Arapaho, who were For some time Salt Creek was the largest Built by Louis Guinard 1858-59. Immediately determined to keep the white man out of this light oil field in the world. The Teapot Dome oil south and west are the sites of Platte Bridge region. Except for Indian resistance, Bozeman’s field of President Harding’s tenure in the 1920s Station. First overland telegraph, stage and Pony route was by far the easiest route to travel. is located nearby. Express stations on the old Oregon Trail. , in 1864, aware of the Indians’ determination to keep the emigrants out of the Old Pioneer Military Cemetery North side: Powder River country, pioneered a route leaving Lt. Caspar Collins was killed July 26, 1865 One half mile north and west across North the Oregon/California/Mormon Trail west of about three miles from this spot. His body was Platte River on the tableland occurred Platte Platte Bridge Station. Traveling north through the removed by relative to his old home in Bridge fight July 26, 1865 in which Lt. Caspar Big Horn Basin and west of the Big Horn Hilllsboro, Ohio. Bodies of soldiers killed from W. Collins, 11th Ohio Vol. Cav., and Privates Mountains, Bridger’s route passed through 1858 to 1867 were reburied at Fort D. A. George W. McDonald, Co. I, George Camp friendly Shoshoni and Crow lands The Bridger www.ultimatewyoming.com 261 Trail, though little used, proved to be a safe Mormons as well as Oregon and California alternative to the more dangerous “Bloody” bound emigrants and provided much needed MORMON TRAIL . money and supplies for the settlements in Utah. The determined resistance by the Sioux, In October of 1856 Natrona County’s great- IN THE CASPER AREA Cheyenne, and Arapaho claimed many lives from est tragedy began at what is now Bessemer 1863 to 1868, climaxing with the Fetterman dis- Bend and continued to Martin’s cove near “All The Roads Were One…” aster in December of 1866. The federal govern- Devil’s Gate. The sixth Mormon Handcart ment consented to the Indians’ demands with Company, under Captain Edward Martin, strug- From the early 1840s until the completion of the Fort Laramie Treaty of 1868 by closing the gled through an early Wyoming blizzard. Over the railroad in 1869, all of the emigrant trails Powder River country trails and forts. 135 persons perished in this 50 mile stretch. but the followed the North Of handcart travel, Chislett’s narrative states, Platte River in Wyoming. Early trappers, Pony Express “Many a father pulled his cart, with his little explorers and missionaries forged this primi- Today you stand where the Pony Express ran in children on it, until the day preceding his tive highway, which subsequently served at 1860-61, when daring riders on swift horses death. I have seen some pull their carts in the least 200.000 pioneers bound for California. carried the between St. Joe, Missouri and morning, give out during the day, and die 50.000 bound for Oregon, and 70,000 Sacremento, California. before the next morning.” Mormons bound for the deserts of Utah. A January 30, 1860 news release read: Pony Express riders, freighters, soldiers and “Have determined to establish a Pony Express Oregon/California/Mormon Trails stage coach drivers also used the same well- From 1840 to 1869, over 350,000 emigrants All Wyoming Area Codes are 307 to Sacramento, California, commencing 3rd of worn Wyoming paths linking East and West. April. Time ten days.” Horses had never crossed traveled past this area on the Oregon/California half the American continent in ten days. Stage /Mormon Trails. The promise of free land, sud- “Casper was a significant point on the stations, such as Platte Bridge Station, became a den riches, or religious freedom caused these Mormon Trail for two reasons …” Pony Express Station, each averaging 12.5 miles pioneers to endure great hardships. Thousands 1. The “Last Crossing” of the North Platte took apart. At these stations, tired horses were of persons died in the quest and are buried place near Casper. exchanged for fresh ones. Riders stayed at along this old pathway. A series of canyons upstream from Casper home stations, some 40 to 70 miles apart. Only two graves in Natrona County are identi- (southwest) remained virtually impassable until Young riders signed on the ride because of fied by name as trail dated burials. This is unusu- long after the pioneer period. Casper, then this advertisement: al due to the fact that hundreds of persons died while traveling through our county. Drowning, dis- called the “Last Crossing,” is significant in trail Wanted ease, and accidents took a toll in our area, espe- history because it is in this vicinity that all of the Wanted skinny wiry fellows not over eighteen. cially between this point and Devil’s Gate. Mormon, California, and Oregon pioneers final- Must be expert riders willing to risk death daily. The peak of migration was in 1852 when ly crossed and abandoned the North Platte Orphans preferred. Wages $25 per week. 70,000 persons passed this spot, most on River which had guided and sustained them Apply, Central Overland Express…. their way to the Callifornia gold fields. These through Nebraska and much of Wyoming. trails contributed to the largest overland migra- Crossing these swollen waters was a very dan- Despite death defying rigors of summer heat, tion in history. gerous undertaking that cost many lives. winter blizzards and Indian attacks, riders anxious- In recent times, the construction of sever- ly awaited the Pony’s first run on April 3rd. Mail Military Explorers al upstream has regulated the spring pouches, relayed from pony to pony at each John C. Fremont, the “Pathfinder”, was born in runoff flow of the North Platte, but in the mid- relay station, were shuttled across the 1900 mile 1813 and explored a large portion of central 19th century, the pioneers had to cross tor- expanse on schedule, with letters and telegrams Wyoming including the Casper area. He made rential waters up to a mile across. There were delivered on April 13th. Although it lasted a mere an independent survey to the Wind River several alternative crossing points, in the short 19 months, it shall forever remain one of the Mountains of Wyoming in 1842, and the stretch between Deer Creek and Bessemer truly remarkable feats of the old west. 13,743’ of the Wind Rivers is Bend near Casper where this perilous opera- named in his honor. Fremont tried unsuccessful- tion could be accomplished. Wind velocity, Section 5 Richard Bridge and Military Complex ly to navigate the North Platte River through a water level, and other seasonal variables influ- The military camps and Richard Bridge were canyon southwest of Casper in August of 1842. enced the particular crossing site selected. located in the bend of the North Platte River The boat capsized, resulting in the loss of impor- about one-mile north of Evansville, Wyoming. tant mapping equipment, journals, registers, 2. Casper marked the northernmost point of Locally known as Reshaw’s Bridge, the area is maps and supplies. Subsequently, he received the Mormon Trail. marked by a historical sign. the dubious honor of having this area come to Due to the peculiar deviation of the North John Richard (Reshaw) constructed a toll be known as Fremont Canyon. Through the rec- Platte River around the mountains of south- bridge in 1852-53 to offer a crossing for the ommendation of Fremont, the government pur- central Wyoming (including Casper Mountain), Oregon/California/Mormon Trail emigrants. ON chased and garrisoned Ft. Laramie in 1849. the Casper area also marks the northernmost November 2, 1985, members of the 4th Benjamin L.E. Bonneville passed this point point along the Mormon Trail. Artillery, 6th Infantry, and 10th Infantry arrived at in the summer of 1832 during the exploration the Richard trading post and established a mili- of the central Rockies. Bonneville, an American Three key events in Mormon history hap- tary camp. In January, 1856, the camp became soldier, was born in France in 1796 and served pened near Casper: known as Fort Clay. From February through June with the 7th U.S. Infantry. In 1832 he led an the name was changed to Camp Davis. Special expedition of 110 men and 20 wagons along 1. Establishment of the “Mormon Ferry” (1847) Order No. 9 on March 6, 1856, directed the gar- the North Platte River, thus becoming the first to 2. Martin Handcart Company disaster (1856) rison to ”…protect the bridge and other interests take wagons through . In 1833 he in that part of the country.” The camp at Richard found an oil seep at Dallas Dome near present 3. Attempt to establish a mail station in Bridge was abandoned in November of 1856. day Lander, wyoming. The drilling of the No. 1 Glenrock which helped precipitate the “Utah The area was again garrisoned by members Murphy well in 1884 kicked off the production War” (1857). of the 4th Artillery in July, 1858 when they of oil in Wyoming. established Post at Platte Bridge. The post was The Mormon Ferry (1847-1852) informally called Camp Payne by the troops and Robert Stuart Cabin Site As they approached the “Upper Crossing” was abandoned in April, 1859. The next time Approximately eight miles southwest of here, of the North Platte, Brigham Young sent ahead troops were garrisoned in this area, they located Robert Stuart built the first cabin in the state of a detachment of 40 men to secure a boat and at Fort Caspar near Guinard’s Bridge. Wyoming. The cabin was built in a three day prepare a way to ferry the wagons across the period in early November,1812, at a site on the river. A Missouri company had preceded them, The Mormons North Platte River at Bessemer Bend. and arranged a contract with the Mormon Brigham Young led the first group of Mormons Robert Stuart was a member of the John ferry-builders to carry their wagons across for west from winter quarters in Nebraska in 1847, Jacob Astor fur trading company that was under $1.50 per load in the “Revenue Cutter” — a finally settling in the Salt Lake Valley. When these the command of William Price Hunt in 1812. leather boat which also served as a butcher pioneers crossed the river here, they left nine After Astor’s ship, the Tonquin, blew up in the wagon and pulpit which the pioneers had the men to operate a ferry. This ferry served fellow Pacific Ocean and killed the crew, news was

262 Ultimate Wyoming Atlas and Travel Encyclopedia foresight to bring from Winter Quarters. It had the ing in the area. Even so, heavy traffic to the gold those remaining until they were grossly over- capacity to carry cargoes weighing 1,500-1,800 fields of California often created crossing delays loaded. Ironically, it was at Deer Creek, just two I

pounds. Fees were paid in flour at the rate of that lasted up to a week. By this time, an ingen- days from Casper, that the loads were reduced NCLUDING $2.50 per hundred pounds when the going rate ious rope and pulley system made it possible for from 17 to 10 pounds per person, and the pio- was $10 per hundred pounds elsewhere. Though the “Mormon Ferry” to carry a loaded wagon neers discarded the clothing, food, and blankets they got 24 wagons across and earned $34 in across the river in just five minutes. they would desperately need to sustain life with- this endeavor, they found that the wagons often in the week. Weak from fatigue and lack of food,

Original Ferry Crew C rolled over in the currents, and the horses risked many of the emigrants found themselves Thomas Crover Captain (professional ferryman) ASPER drowning. It was clear that a more efficient and caught short of clothing and rations when the

William Empey Assistant Captain S reliable strategy for crossing these swollen cur- early and harsh winter storms of 1856 struck Appleton Harmon Carpenter/mechanic OUTHCENTRAL rents had to be found. suddenly on October 19. One witness at , R Luke Johnson Doctor and hunter Brigham Young arrived at the Upper Crossing Reshaw Bridge watched these impoverished James Davenport Blacksmith IVERTON of the North Platte with the rest of the 72-wagon pioneers ford the freezing river because they James Highee Herdsman company of 143 men, three women and two could not afford the bridge toll. This part of the Edmund Ellsworth Hunter children on June 12, 1847. His party had to wait ordeal hastened the death of many.

Francis Pomeroy Hunter , L for the Missouri group to finish crossing. Then The Willie Company was caught near the Benjamin Stewart Coal miner at Deer Creek A NE AND ANDER

the Mormons ferried their emptied wagons sixth crossing of the Sweetwater River. Most of REA Eric Glines Crew member while displaced provisions and personal belong- the losses from the Martin Company occurred ings were carried across on the “Revenue Martin Handcart Company Disaster (1856) between the North Platte crossing and Martin’s Cutter.” Strong winds and high water (150 yards In 1856 the financial burden associated with Cove. When possible, the dead were wrapped in wide and 10 to 15-feet deep) made the cross- getting destitute European converts across the sheets and lowered into shallow graves, where

ing difficult and extremely dangerous. After a plains to join the Saints in Utah forced Mormon they were then covered with stones to keep R long day, only 23 wagons rested safely on the leaders to find ways to cut costs. Accordingly, wolves away. However, much of the time the AWLINS other side of the river. Brigham Young instructed these converts to walk hard-frozen ground prevented burial, and Frustrated by this slow progress, Brigham to “Zion” from the end of the railroad (which corpses could only be covered with blankets Young commissioned the construction of a larg- was then under construction), bearing their and snow and left above-ground. er ferry boat. Men were sent to locate two 23- meager possessions in “handcarts” which could By the time a rescue party arrived from Salt foot cottonwood trees, which were hollowed be pushed and pulled along the trail without the Lake City on November 1, over 18 inches of out like canoes to serve as the base. Cross tim- assistance of animals. snow had fallen, and temperatures had dropped bers were obtained from the mountain and A handcart was a two-wheeled, wooden to -14 F. Straggling survivors were picked up for slabbing for the floor from other cottonwoods. wagon, similar in design to an over-sized wheel- nearly 60 miles along the trail from the After just three days, the ferry was complete and barrow. Each was about six feet long, four feet Bessemer Bend area to Martin’s Cove, near had been provided as well with two oars and a wide and five feet deep when loaded to capacity Devil’s Gate, where the Martin Company sur- rudder for control. Brigham Young realized that with 400 to 500 pounds of provisions. vivors regrouped after the rescue party arrived. subsequent Mormon companies would require Nevertheless, “handcart pioneers” could make The Hunt and Hodgett wagon trains were the ferry to cross the North Platte, and he also the entire trip from Liverpool, England to the Salt caught in the same storm and added to the

appreciated the revenue-generating potential of Lake Valley for less than $45, in weeks less time, numbers gathering at Martin’s Cove — ultimate- Section 5 helping other pioneers cross the river. Wilford and with fewer casualties than those using costly ly about 800 people including the rescuers. Woodruff recorded that “ … President Young covered wagons. In all, ten handcart companies Sixty-seven of the Willie Handcart Company thought it wisdom to leave a number of the with 2,962 pioneers — three percent of the total died before the remaining members reached brethren here and keep a ferry until our number of the Mormon emigrants - journeyed to on November 9, 1856. Of the Company Came up. Emegrants will pay for fer- the Salt Lake Valley between 1856 and 1860. Martin Handcart Company, 145 died before the rying $1.50 cnts per waggon …” [sic]. The first three handcart companies reached party finally reached Salt Lake at the end of After the Mormons had completed the the Salt Lake Valley safely in 1856, but tragedy November. Many more from both companies crossing, other small wagon trains bound for struck the Martin and Willie Handcart Companies lost limbs or extremities. Others sustained life- Oregon contracted with the ferrymen to carry which followed, as well as the Hunt and Hodgett long physical impairments from the ordeal. them across. On June 19, one week after their wagon trains behind them. When they arrived at Attempt to Grow Crops and Establish arrival, Brigham Young named nine men to Iowa City (the departure point at the end of the a Mail Station Near Glenrock (1857) remain and operate the ferry while he and the railroad), these English and Scandinavian emi- Information is limited about the attempts of others pushed on to their new home in present- grants found that their handcarts were not ready the Mormons to plant crops in Glenrock for the day Utah. A tenth, Eric Glines, elected himelf to as promised. Consequently, they were delayed as benefit of who would later stay behind with the ferrymen. These ten men handcarts were hastily constructed of unsea- pass through the area en route to Salt Lake City, possessed a variety of professional skills which soned wood, which would later shrink, warp, and but some believe their efforts began in the mid- were offered to other pioneers passing through. crack as they were drawn along the trail in the 1850s and persisted until the of 1857. Mormon pioneers received these services free summer heat. Determined to reach Utah rather By 1856, Hiram Kimball had secured a federal of charge; others paid $4-5 per wagon. than be stranded among strangers, James G. contract for delivering mail along the trail. In May The original ferry was located near the pres- Willie’s company left Iowa City on July 15; Edward 1857, Brigham Young announced the erection of ent site of Fort Caspar, but a few days after Martin’s left July 26. Almost a month later, August a series of mail stations along the route, and dis- Brigham Young’s departure, in response to tem- 11, the Willie Company pulled into Florence. patched crews from Salt Lake to build them that porary competition, it was moved downstream- So late in the season, the question of pro- summer. One station was to be located at Deer several miles. A sign post advertising the services ceeding was put to a vote. All but the experienced Creek, and in anticipation of this development, a provided by the Mormon Ferry was erected 28 Levi Savage voted to travel on. Savage, with tears fort and thriving settlement were begun the miles downriver at Deer Creek (Glenrock). This running down his cheeks, reportedly pleaded for same summer near Glenrock. However, this ven- was the first advertising sign in central Wyoming. “… the old, weak, and sickly to stop until another ture was quickly abandoned in August 1857 due The Mormon ferry operation, established in spring … that if such undertook the journey at that to deteriorating relations between the Mormons 1847 by Brigham Young, marked the begin- late season of the year, that their bones would and the federal government. The ensuing dis- ning of commercial ferrying in the Rocky strew the way.” He added, “Brothers and Sisters, pute known as the “Utah War” resulted in the Mountains. Every summer between 1848 and what I have said I know to be true; but seeing you cancellation of the mail contract and the subse- 1852, Mormon men returned to Casper from are to go forward, I will go with you, will help you quent dispatch of 2,500 federal troops to Utah Salt Lake City to operate it during the “high all I can, will work with you, will rest with you, will under the command of Albert Sidney Johnson. water period” (between late May and July). suffer with you, and, if necessary, I will die with In 1847 and 1848, the Mormons enjoyed a you. May God in His mercy bless and preserve us.” Reprint of article prepared by the Casper near monopoly in the ferry business, but in 1849 As Savage predicted, a number of handcarts Wyoming Stake of The Church of Jesus Christ at least three non-Mormon ferries began operat- broke down. The cargo was redistributed on of Latter-day Saints www.ultimatewyoming.com 263 sent back to Astor via Robert Stuart. His route other pioneers cross the river. Wilford Pioneer Party would take him over the Rockies from the Woodruff recorded that “…President Young “The boats were managed by means of large mouth of the to St. Louis. thought it wisdom to leave a number of the ropes stretched across the stream, then with Stuart’s cabin was built of stone with a buf- brethren here and keep a ferry until our pulley blocks working on the before named falo hide roof. According to his diary, it was 8’ Company Came up. Emigrants will pay for fer- rope, then guy ropes attached to each end of wide, 18’ long, and 3’ high. A hole in the center rying $1.50 cents per waggon…”(sic). the boat and to the two blocks with pulleys, of the hide roof let the smoke escape. On June 19, one week after their arrival, then drop one end of the boat so that the force Following a visit by Arapahoes and learning of Brigham Young named nine men to remain and of the current pressing against it will push the Crow Indians nearby, Stuart and his party aban- operate the ferry. boat across, then reverse the process and the doned their camp on December 13, 1812. boat will recross in about five minutes,” They proceeded to present day Torrington, near “….A Company have gone back about three miles to make two canoes on which they intend the Wyoming-Nebraska border, where they 11 Food, Lodging spent the remainder of the winter. to build a boat to be used here till the next com- pany comes up. Another company also went Indians of Wyoming about half a mile up the river to make slabs or 12 Food At the time of the great migration of emigrants puncheons to lay on the canoes. A while before through Wyoming to the Pacific coast and Utah, dark the brethren returned from below with two Bar Nunn Indians were the largest group of residents in good canoes twenty-five feet long each and near- Pop. 936, elev. 5,282 wyoming. Many of these tribes such as Utes ly finished and ready to put together…” All Wyoming Area Codes are 307 Probably named for a rancher’s brand, this little William Clayton, 1847 and Blackfeet, were semi-permanent and town is now a settlement outside of Casper built nomadic, traveling in and out of wyoming as on the runways of the old Casper airport. warrior-hunting societies. The roaming buffalo “…I was called to go with 16 or 18 others supplied the Indians with all their subsistance, down the river in search of Timber for Canoes, as said he was tired of experi- H The Oregon Trail and the introduction of the horse provided the On Horse Creek Rd about 13 mi S of State mobility to hunt the buffalo in great numbers. menting with Raft after going about 3 miles we Hwy 220. At Ryan Hill Interpretive Site. found two cottonwood trees near together of The Shoshoni were located in the western Ruts of the Oregon Trail are visible at this loca- part of Wyoming, generally in the Green River which we constructed two canoes 23 feet long, put them on the Wagons & hauled them up to tion. This trail was a great roadway for large valley. The Crows were living in the Big Horn covered wagon migrations to Oregon, and Powder River Basins in northern Wyoming camp at night…” Norton Jacob, 1847 California, and Utah. An estimated 350,000 and southern Montana. The Cheyenne, people passed this way between 1843 and Arapaho, and Sioux claimed the southeast part “….Meantime a set of hands was busy prepar- 1866. 1866 marked the end of the large of Wyoming, an area heavily traveled during the ing two canoes, two and a half feet in diameter migration parties; thereafter only small parties emigrant migration. and 23 feet long, which, when coupled about traveled the trail. The great migration ended in The coming of the emigrants in great num- five feet apart with cross timber covered with the 1880’s. The trail remains an important bers was accepted peacefully by the Crow and puncheons and manned with oars, made a transportation corridor today. Shoshoni, but the Sioux, with the help of the boat with which three men could cross a wagon Cheyenne and Arapaho, resisted fiercely. From with its load…” H Wildlife and Habitat 1853 until 1877, the Sioux and their allies Erastus Snow, 1847 On Horse Creek Rd about 13 mi S of State fought this intrusion in numerous battles until Hwy 220. At Ryan Hill Interpretive Site. final defeat forced them to accept the invasion “….at first tried the plan of floating our wagons The surrounding sagebrush/grassland habitat sup- and reservation life. In Wyoming, the Wind by extending ropes down the river and attach- ports a variety of wildlife species today, just as it River Indian Reservation is home for the ing them to the end of the tongue, but the cur- did during the active trail use days. Most of the Arapaho and Shoshoni. rent would roll them over as if they were plant and animal species observed and used by nothing but a log, wheels and bows appearing the early emigrants still inhabit this area. A notable Old Fort Caspar alternately upon the surface of the water, and Section 5 Originally known to trappers and explorers exception is the buffalo, which is no longer found two lashed together by means of poles placed here. The grasses fed the emigrants’ livestock, (1830-1847) as Upper Crossing of the North under them shared the same fate… The plan Platte River, it became the Mormon Ferry in and the sagebrush fueled their fires, though not was abandoned as being too dangerous. The as satisfactorily a they might have wished. William 1847. Guinard built a bridge here in 1858, and next plan was to try small rafts, but the difficul- G. Johnson noted in his journal on June 5, 1849, troops from Platte Bridge Station guarded the ty of polling a raft in so deep and swift water that it had drawbacks—it “sends forth great vol- telegraph line and protected emigrants on the was such that the wind, aiding the current, umes of blinding smoke, particularly damaging to “Oregon Trail”. July 26, 1865, the station was would not infrequently sweep them down from the eyes of the cook.” The emigrants shot buffalo, attacked by hordes of Indians. Lt. Caspar one to two miles before it would be possible sage grouse, and cottontail as they moved Collins led an heroic attempt to rescue Sgt. to make the other shore… In attempting to through the area, supplementing their meager Custard’s wagon train, but sacrified his life in drag rafts across the current with ropes, the diet with the fresh meat. With the exception of aiding a fallen soldier. The station was current would draw them under… Prest. Young the roads, pipelines and other structures of renamed “Fort Caspar” in his honor. stript himself and went to work with all his human origin, this area appears today much as it Abandoned in 1867 ,the fort and bridge were strength, assisted by the Dr. and brethren, and did in the 1850’s and 1860’s. burned by Indians. The old fort was restored made a first rate White Pine and White Cotton on its original foundations in 1936. Wood Raft… The new raft was in operation all H Ryan (Prospect) Hill day and worked well…” Mormon Ferry On Horse Creek Rd about 13 mi S of State Wilford Woodruff, 1847 Brigham Young arrived at a point near this site Hwy 220. At Ryan Hill Interpretive Site with the Mormon Pioneer 72-wagon company “…to the upper crossing of the Platte River. Prospect Hill (now called Ryan Hill) derived its of 143 men, three women and two children Here we had considerable trouble as the river name from the view of the surrounding coun- on June 12, 1847. Strong winds and high was very high and rapid… It was decided to tryside, a view William Clayton called “pleasant” water (150 yards wide and 10 to 15-feet make two large canoes and lash them together in his 1848 Emigrants’ Guide.” To the west, the deep) made crossing the river difficult and for a ferry boat… We selected two large trees, emigrants got their first view of the Sweetwater extrmely dangerous. After various attempts to three feet through. Of these we made two large Mountains and the route they would travel to cross and frustrated by slow progress, Brigham canoes, 30 feet long. We then cut two other Independence Rock and Devils Gate, some of Young commissioned the construction of a trees and hewed them down to two inches the most spectacular sites along the trail. Those larger ferry boat. After just three days, the ferry thick and straightened the edges, making planks who could not make the 20 miles from here to was complete and had been provided as well of them 14”wide and 30’ long… We then ran it Independence Rock in one day would usually with two oars and a rudder for control. across the river, which was quickly and easily camp at Horse Creek. Once at Independence Brigham Young realized that subsequent done. In this way, the wagons were all soon Rock, they would follow the Sweetwater River Mormon companies would require the ferry to over; the stock we swam across…” for the next 90 miles, thus having access to a cross the North Platte, and he also appreciated Lewis Barney1847 reliable water source. the revenue-generating potential of helping Although this portion of the trail was repeat-

264 Ultimate Wyoming Atlas and Travel Encyclopedia edly described as barren and rough, it was not desolate. Amelia Stewart Knight wrote in her journal on June 14, 1853, “There is no less I than 150 wagons camped around us, but we NCLUDING have left most of the droves behind, and no end to the teams.” There are developed interpretive areas at Independence Rock, Devils Gate and . C ASPER Food, Lodging 13 S OUTHCENTRAL Mills , R

Pop. 2,591, elev. 5,123 IVERTON Now a suburb of Casper, this community was named for the Mills brothers, James, William, and

Thomas, who planned the Mills-Baker addition to , L

Casper in 1919. A NE AND ANDER REA H The Town of Mills City Memorial Park in Mills In 1919 the Mills Construction Company pur- chased a major portion of this area to mine sand and gravel from the floor plain of the R AWLINS North Platte River. This material was hauled by horse and wagon to the Midwest refinery (now Bessemer Bend Amoco) to build roads and tank farm dikes. By 1921 over a thousand people lived in the area H A Look Back main route of the Oregon Trail is a few miles along what is now Federal Street. On Horse Creek Rd about 13 mi S of State north of here, many emigrant travelers crossed The people voted to incorporate the Town Hwy 220. At Ryan Hill Interpretive Site the North Platte River at this site for the last of Mills in April of 1921. George Boyle was Looking east from this point, the emigrants could time on their trek west. They preferred using elected Mayor and took office in May. The Town see most of the route back to the North Platte this favorable ford rather than waiting in line built a new town hall and a highly controversial River and Casper Mountain. From the oint where and paying the tolls and ferry fees required at bond election approved money for construction they left the North Platte River, they could travel lower crossings. Ample grass, good water and of a public water system. The Town’s first water to Willow Springs, at the base of Ryan (Prospect) pleasant surroundings made this a favorite tank was built on this site in 1924 and stood Hill, in two or three days if they were not delayed campsite for some travelers, since the route to here until 1975. Mills has grown over the years by sickness or accients. Willow Springs, with its or from the Sweetwater River was three days of and today is over a square mile in size and has good water, was the customary campsite after rough, dry country and poisonous alkali water. two thousand residents. they had passed through Emigrant Gap and Rock Bessemer City, (“Queen of the Plains”), flour- Section 5 Avenue a day or two earlier. ished for a short time (1888-1891) a few miles H Sgt. Custard Wagon-Train Fight There would be no reliable source of good west of the river. Bessemer City was founded by On private land near Casper water again until they reached Horse Creek, 10 cattle kings anticipating the construction of a rail- On July 26, 1865 near this site a U.S. Army miles beyond Willow Springs, on their way to road This area was the hub of well-established stock-grazing ranches on major streams and Wagon Train under the command of Sgt. the Sweetwater River near Independence Rock. rivers. The residents of Bessemer City staged a Custard, Eleventh Cavalry was attacked Upon leaving Willow Springs they faced a 400- campaign for the Natrona County seat and in by Sioux, Cheyenne and Arapahoe Indians. In a foot climb to this point at the top of what they April of 1890 lost their bid to Casper, another vicious four hour fight, twenty troopers and an called Prospect Hill, a trying task for draft ani- nearby village. Bessemer City died and is now a unknown number of warriors were killed. All the mals pulling the belongings of emigrants. field of waving alfalfa where once stood hotels, wagons were burned. From this vantage you can see the remains of the wagon ruts immediately to the north and stores, churches and saloons. H Emigrant Gap Historical Site east. Please stay on the posted foot trail— Pony Express— About 10 mi W of Mills on Poison Spider Rd remember to enjoy and not destroy. April 4, 1860-October 24, 1861 Many emigrant pioneers passed through this Historic sites have been interpreted along the gap, or opening, in Emigrant Ridge between 14 No services Pony Express Trail by the Bureau of Land the 1840’s and the 1880’s as they traveled Management in Wyoming, Utah and . the Oregon-Mormon Trail by oxen-drawn T Bessemer Bend This effort to enhance your understanding of wagons, on horseback, or on foot. The trail Bessemer Bend Interpretive Site about 2 mi N our western heritage is in observance of the generally followed the North Platte River from of State Hwy 220 on Bessemer Bend Rd American Revolution Bicentennial. “Bessemer the Scottsbluff, Nebraska area to crossings The distinctive Red Buttes stand above Bessemer Bend” is one of three Bureau of Land near Fort Caspar (just eight miles east), Bend, the last fording site of the North Platte Management sites in Wyoming. You are invited which was active between 1862 and 1867. River on the Trail. This river, which the emigrants westward to the Sweetwater River to visit The trail departed from the North Platte River had followed for hundreds of miles, now turned ”Devil’s Gate” near Independence Rock via near Fort Caspar, meandering overland to the south and became impassable. Toll ferries Wyoming 220 and “Split Rock” via Wyoming toward Willow Springs, Ryan (Prospect) Hill, and bridges downstream of the Bend were estab- 287. If you are the adventurous sort, trace the the Sweetwater River drainage, Independence lished after 1847, but emigrants, including the original path of the Pony Express or the Oregon Rock, South Pass, and beyond to Utah, handcart companies of 1856, who did not want Trail following the route of westward Expansion. Oregon and California. to pay the tolls, used Bessemer Bend as a low- From this point the emigrants had a sweep- water crossing. There is a BLM interpretive site at The Need was There ing view to the west, the scene of their next the crossing. Source: BLM brochure. Competing with time, harsh climates, long dis- week’s journey. Emigrant Gap signified the tances, mountains, plains, deserts and the hostili- departure from the North Platte River valley and H Bessemer Bend ty of numerous Indian Bands, the Pony Express the beginning of the ascent into the Rocky Interpretive Signs met the need to carry communication 1600 Mountains. The trail crossed over the Bessemer Bend Interpretive Site about 2 mi N miles across the West. It was a triumph of organi- Continental divide at South Pass. of State Hwy 220 on Bessemer Bend Rd zation, determination and courage and was vital From here you can follow Poison Spider Bessemer Bend to the life of the Nation. The Pony Express kept Road to Oregon Trail Road which closely paral- Explorers, fur traders, mountain men and emi- the far West informed and helped to keep lels the route of the Oregon-Mormon Trail. grants have camped at this site. Although the Califonia in the Union at the outbreak of the Civil www.ultimatewyoming.com 265 War, thus playing a part in holding the Nation together. During its eighteen-month life, the Pony Express operated at peak efficiency, speeding mail from either end at an average rate of only 10 days. The time was shorter for telegrams as the “talking wire” neared completion from east and west. From April 4, 1860 to October 24, 1861, the California Overland Mail and Pike’s Peak Express (Pony Express) was the Nation’s vital communication link with the far West. How It Was Done Relay stations were set up 10 to 15 miles apart along the route, each manned by two to four men and extra horses. In the desert west, relay stations were often much farther apart. About 500 of the hardiest western horses were bought at prices up to $200 each. Above all, the 80 riders were recruited from the most dar- All Wyoming Area Codes are 307 ing, determined and toughest “wiry young fel- lows” in the West. Lightly equipped and armed, each rider rode about 35 miles and back, exchanging horses at three relay stations. Over his saddle the rider carried the mochila, a leather cover with four mail pouches. Postage for a single letter was $1 to $5. Each rider rode at top speed to his relay stations. There the pre- cious mochila was placed on a waiting horse Red Butte and the rider was off again in two minutes. Day and night, good weather and bad, winter and summer, the “Pony” never stopped, averaging mail was no longer justified. In 18 months the Goose Egg Ranch 10 to 15 miles an hour across the West. story of the Pony Express had attracted world- The Goose Egg Ranch was established in this wide attention that has not faded with time. Its area of Wyoming by the Searight Cattle The Pony’s Echo backers, Russell, Majors, Waddell and Company of Texas, which stocked it with Completion of the Transcontinental Telegraph Company, lost over $1million on the venture 14,000 head of cattle trailed in from Oregon. Line, October 24, 1861, put an end to the and never received federal support. Never the Inspiration for the name of the ranch came Pony Express. The wire now met the need for less, the Pony Express will remain as an out- when one of the cowboys found some goose urgent communication. The Overland Mail standing example of American enterprise, eggs on an island in the North Platte River. Stage Coach service for letters had been inten- endurance, courage and determination in the The ranch house, built in the fall of 1881, sified so that the high cost of Pony Express westward expansion of the Nation. was a large native stone building with a living room, kitchen, five bedrooms and a cellar. Although most materials were freighted by STHER OBART ORRIS first woman to hold a judicial position. Mrs. wagon teams from Cheyenne, the stone was E H M Morris served 81⁄2 months and handled 26 cut from nearby rocks. cases in a manner that was considered a cred- Famous for its local dances and parties, the

Section 5 Esther Hobart McQuigg was born in 1812 in the it to her position. In later years, following first house was picked by Owen Wister as the set- state of . Orphaned at the age of 14, separation from then death of her husband, ting for an incident in his western novel, “The she supported herself as a milliner until, at age Ms. Morris lived with her sons. She appeared at Virginian”. In this famous story the Virginian 28, she married Artemus Slack, a civil engineer. a number of women’s rights gatherings and switched babies in clothing and cribs while Mr. Slack died not long after the marriage, leaving political affairs, though she was apparently not their parents danced at the party. This prank Esther with an infant son. She moved to Peru, comfortable with making speeches. She died in was his reaction to being snubbed by the Illinois in 1842, where she married John Morris, 1902 in Cheyenne, Wyoming. teacher, Molly Wood, after he rode 100 miles a merchant. In 1869 Mrs. Morris, along with twin Mrs. Morris eventually became a symbol for to attend the party. sons, moved to South Pass City in the newly cre- the women’s rights movement, and stories of The ranch house was one-quarter mile east ated Wyoming Territory, joining her husband who her independent attitudes and support of of flourishing Bessemer City. It was once used as had opened a saloon there the previous year. women’s issues have been circulated. As for the a hotel, advertised as “the best hotel in central Mrs. Morris has been widely acclaimed as question of who was the main force behind the Wyoming with accommodations unsurpassed”. an influential figure in the events that estab- Women’s Suffrage Act in Wyoming, the verifi- When the Goose Egg Ranch was sold in lished women’s suffrage in Wyoming. However, able record favors William H. Bright, who intro- 1886, it became part of J.M. Carey’s spread. her role in promoting suffrage legislation in the duced the bill. A story that Mrs. Morris had Carey and his son, Robert, both were Governor territory has been disputed. The record shows obtained a promise from Bright, also a South and Senator for Wyoming in the early 1900s. that in 1869, during the territory’s first legislative Pass City resident, at a tea party to introduce the The house was razed in 1951 because it was session, William H. Bright introduced a women’s suffrage bill surfaced decades after the fact and felt to be a hazard. suffrage bill. Although the legislation was has been commonly repeated. Though this received with some humor, it did pass and was story and any direct involvement by Mrs. Morris Pony Express signed into law by Governor John A. Campbell, in the drafting and introduction of the suffrage Red Buttes Pony Express Station was located a thus according the young territory immediate bill cannot be substantiated, Esther Morris is few hundred feet from here on the ridge above fame as the first government to grant women commonly regarded as one of the heroines of the river. The station was constructed for the the right to vote in all public elections. the women’s suffrage movement. Her name Overland Stage and shared by the Pony Shortly after the legislative session, in became synonymous with equal rights, fame Express. It was also along this north bank of the February 1870, Wyoming achieved another which led to her being chosen as Wyoming’s river that the first transcontinental telegraph line “first” when three women were appointed to representative in Statuary Hall in the Capitol was built. serve as justices of the peace. Esther Morris Building in Washington, D.C. Her statue was William “” Cody, Pony Express was selected to complete the term of the presented in ceremonies at the Capitol in 1960. rider, made the longest non-stop ride from this South Pass City justice, who had resigned. She Larson, T.A. , 2nd edition, station. Completing his own run of 116 miles is the only one of the three appointees known revised. University of Nebraska Press, 1978. between Red Buttes and Three Crossings, he to have served, thereby winning accord as the Courtesy of Wyoming State Archives found his relief rider had met an untimely death, causing Cody to ride an extra 76 miles to

266 Ultimate Wyoming Atlas and Travel Encyclopedia Rocky Ridge Station. He immediately returned from Rocky Ridge to Red Buttes, completing the MORMON PIONEER led an advance party over Big route in record time. Mountain and down Emigration Canyon, enter- I

JOURNALS ing the valley on July 22, 1847. By the time NCLUDING The Astorians Brigham Young, delayed by illness, entered the John Jacob Astor’s “Astorians” are often given 0n April 5, 1847, the vanguard of The Church of valley on July 24, the first crops were already in credit for finding the “South Pass” route to Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints, the Mormons, the ground. , later crossed by thousands on headed west to the . The pioneer the Oregon Trail. Astor sent his “Astorians” by On arriving there was much cheered by a hand- C company of 148 people, led by Brigham Young, ASPER sea and land in 1810 to establish the Pacific Fur some view of the Great Salt Lake. was seeking the best route across the Rocky Company at the mouth of the Columbia River. —William Clayton S Mountains into the Valley of the Great Salt Lake. OUTHCENTRAL

Astor’s dream was to establish a Pacific base for , R his fur trading business that would become a After years of violence and persecution in the This forenoon commenced planing our pota- cornerstone for a great new American state. He Midwest, the Mormons sought an isolated area toes, after which we turned the water upon IVERTON intended to break the British fur monopoly in where they could permanently settle and prac- them and gave them quite a soaking. the Pacific Northwest and bring American terri- tice their religion in peace. The Great Basin —Orson Pratt, July 24, 1847

became their chosen “Zion.” , L tory under American control. In later years, this route from The wagons pulled out of Winter Quarters A

Wilson Price Hunt with his party of AND ANDER to the Valley of the Great Salt Lake became a REA “Astorians” traveled west, crossing northern (present-day North Omaha) and ascended the fundamental part of the wagon road to the Wyoming in July of 1811. Robert Stuart, a part- broad valley of the Platte River, traveling across Utah settlements and California. Emigrants ner in the company, traveled with others by sea. Nebraska to Fort Laramie. Waiting at the fort to headed to Oregon, by way of the Salt Lake Stuart later returned to New York with dispatch- join the vanguard company were “Mississippi Cutoff, argonauts seeking their fortunes in the es for Astor. It was this journey which pioneered Saints,” who had wintered over in Pueblo, California gold fields, and Pony Express riders R

the route over South Pass, in October of 1812. Colorado, with Mormon Battalion members AWLINS The Platte River, being a natural travel route from the “Sick Detachments.” galloping through on their way to Sacramento, across Wyoming and Nebraska, was first The pioneers followed the North Platte and California, or St. Joseph, Missouri, all passed encountered by Stuart above Bessemer Bend. Sweetwater Rivers across Wyoming to the crest along this route. Stuart’s party camped near here across the river, of the continent at South Pass and descended from November 1 to November 13, 1812, plan- to the Green River, where they were joined by In Their Own Words ning to winter in a crude cabin they built. a small group of Mormon Battalion members. Fearing Indian attack, the party abandoned the This enlarged party traveled on to Fort Bridger, I rigged up my trout rod that I had brought with cabin and proceeded down the river. on , arriving on July 7, 1847. They me from Liverpool, fixed my reel, & artificial fly & went to one of the brooks close by Camp to Stuart’s Diary Describes tarried at this “shabby” fort only long enough to do some trading and repair wagons. try my luck at catching trout …. How He Found This Place —Wilford Woodruff, 8 July, 1847 “…we reached a considerable mountain The articles generally at Bridger’s fort were at through which the River ran 4 miles, when the least one-third or one-half higher than at any The power of the air rules and the dust is Country opening, it made a large bend to the other post in America that I ever saw. worse than intollerable. north (Bessemer Bend), to the lower end of —Wilford Woodruff —Eliza R. Snow, 24 September 1847 Section 5 which we went in 2 more and encamped in a beautiful bottom of Cottonwoods surrounded They now left the well-traveled Oregon- The day has been hot and sultery, and mos- with a thick growth of the common Willow—Our California Trail, which swung sharply northwest, quitos are very troublesom… days journey was 24 miles NE.” following the faint, year-old track of the Donner- —William Clayton, 13 July 1847 Many explorers, mountain men and travelers Reed party west-southwest along the Hastings Very, very dirty thro brush & timber — up the stopped here, at what they referred to as “Red Cutoff and into Echo Canyon. Mt. where we met J.T who asked me if I had Buttes”. Among them were Andrew Sublette, lately seen my face, his own being behind a July 30, 1834, “bound for Laramy”s Fork”, John There is a very singular echo in this ravine, the black mask - we then went slash mash down Charles Fremont in 1842, and Howard rattling of the wagons resembles carpenters Stansbury, July 27, 1852. hammering on boards inside the highest rocks. over stumps, trees, etc, etc. —William Clayton —Eliza R. Snow, 1 October 1847 The Oregon Trail & California Trails The Oregon Trail was the major corridor of The final 116 miles from Fort Bridger, across The grass on this creek grows from six to westward migration—the main street of the the Wasatch Mountains, were the most difficult twelve feet high… many signs of deer, ante- West from the 1830s to 1869 when the of the entire trip. Travel through the narrow wil- lope, and bears. transcontinental railroad was completed. low-choked canyons and over the rocky crest of —William Clayton, 22 July 1847 Restless Americans from all walks of life moved the Wasatch was so difficult that it took the pio- …and beholding in a moment such as exten- west along this corridor seeking a better life in neer company 14 days to complete this part of sive scenery open before us, we could not a new land. The Mormons sought freedom the journey. refrain from a shout of joy which almost from religious, social and economic intolerance involuntarily escaped from our lips the and aggression. For others, the lure was land Counselled the company not to go any further moment this grand and lovely scenery was available for the taking. After the discovery of until they had spent several hours labour on gold in California in 1848, bands of feverish the road over which we passed yesterday within our view. fortune seekers sought the buried wealth of afternoon: all who were able to work laboured —Orson Pratt, July 21, 1847 the West. An estimated 350,000 people about two thirds of the day on the same. Hurra, hurra, hurra, there’s my home at last! passed this way between 1841 and 1866 on —Orson Pratt —Thomas Bullock, 24 July 1847 their way to western territories. For these thou- sands of men, women and children, the jour- Crossed Canyon Creek 8 times—the road sidel- ing, stumpy, bushy, etc. Excerpted from brochure produced by Utah ney was 2,000 miles of plains, deserts and Historic Trails Consortium mountains—-one step at a time. Their visions of —Eliza R. Snow personal freedom and opportunity were vital to national expansion. The long journey to Oregon took emigrants most of it near the Platte River. Howard H First White Man’s about six months, moving 10 to 20 miles a day Stansbury passed through here in July 1852 Cabin in Wyoming with their wagons, carts and packs. Time, dis- and noted the difficulties encountered by those About 2 mi W of the Bessemer Rd on State tance and hardships seasoned the travelers who had passed ahead of him. He witnessed Hwy 220. This marker no longer exists. much as soldiers are seasoned by a long war. eleven broken wagons and much discarded Approximately 2 miles northwest from here is Those who crossed the North Platte River at this equipment, such as blacksmith’s anvils, trunks, the location of the cabin built by Robert Stuart’s point had already traveled nearly 775 miles, ploughs, ovens and grindstones. www.ultimatewyoming.com 267 Pathfinder is one of the first dams built under the Reclamation Law. The storage capacity of is 1,016,000 acre feet. H Fremont Canyon Powerplant At Built to take advantage of a 350-foot ‘head’ between Pathfinder and Alcova Reservoirs, avail- able water is used to generate electric power. The reinforced concrete powerplant contains two 24,000-kilowatt generators. Construction features also include a conduit 18 feet in diam- eter and three miles in length; a surge tank 40 feet in diameter and 246 feet (24 stories) high; and a vehicular tunnel 17 feet in diameter and 1,700 feet long for access to the powerplant.

All Wyoming Area Codes are 307 H Alcova Reservoir About 30 mi W of Casper on State Hwy 220 Alcova Reservoir, below you, created by constructed by the Bureau of Reclamation and completed in 1938, is on the North Platte River .The reservoir is four miles long, has 2,500 acre surface area, and a normal water surface elevation of 5,500 feet. Water from this reservoir is diverted into Casper Canal for irrigat- Alcova Reservoir ing Kendrick Project lands. Casper Canal with a capacity of 600 cubic feet per second, is 62 miles long and serves party of Astorians. They were enroute from occurs annually between May and November, 201 miles of laterals and sub-laterals. Astoria to St. Louis to report to John Jacob Astor with peak use occurring in June as herds travel The principal crops grown on the 24,000 the fate of his ship, which was destroyed by to summer pastures in the Deer Creek Range, irrigable acres are corn, alfalfa and feed grains. Indians, and the crew killed. Stuart and six com- and in October as they return to home winter Lake shore Drive, 2 miles back, provides a panions left Astoria June 29, 1812, and reached ranges. Your courtesy and cooperation towards more complete view of beautiful Alcova reser- Wyoming in November after winter had set in. the users of the stock trail is appreciated. voir There you will find boat launching ramps, Footsore and hungry, they found game plentiful fishing, swimming areas, and picnic and camp- here and built a cabin. They had planned to H Gray Reef Dam and Reservoir About 30 mi of Casper on State Hwy 220 ing sites. stay until spring, but after Indians discovered their cabin, they left in the night and continued Constructed to regulate rather than store water. H Pathfinder Cemetery eastward down the river. Regulation of water flow in the North Platte About one mile north of Pathfinder Dam River is of particular importance for power pro- duction, for full benefits for fish life, water quali- Seven grave sites dating from 1905 to 1912 15 ty, municipal and industrial water and irrigation. are located in this tiny cemetery. Barney Flynn Gray Reef Reservoir assures that releases and Clint Moor, workers on the Pathfinder Dam, Section 5 Clarks Corner can be made from Alcova Powerplant according died February 9, 1912, in a construction acci- to varying needs for power. It provides river dent. Five men were working on the concrete 16 Food, Lodging flowage with a minimum of daily fluctuation. ladderway on the south side of the canyon The reservoir can store 1,800 acre-feet of Alcova water behind the earthfill dam which is 36 feet Planning to turn it into a health resort, an eastern high and 650 feet long. The outlet gates are WOODCHOPPERS company named this town for the hot springs, electronically controlled from Alcova Powerplant. located in some coves nearby. The resort never JAMBOREE AND RODEO came to pass, even though the water was consid- H Alcova Dam and Reservoir ered very medicinal, because people in Wyoming About 30 mi W of Casper on State Hwy 220 During the third week in June chain saws, were thought to bathe only on Saturday nights. Alcova Dam, 10 miles downstream from axes, hand saws and loggers create plenty of The Alcova Reservoir covered the springs in Pathfinder Dam, acts as a diversion structure action, along with bulls, broncs and cowboys. 1933, but the heated water can still be enjoyed in and creates a reservoirs from which water is They all come together in Encampment for a an artesian well below the dam. diverted into the Casper Canal for irrigating the unique two-day event full of activity and Kendrick Project lands. The dam is an earth and T Alcova Reservoir and Dam excitement. Starting on Friday night with a rockfill embankment structure 265 feet high melodrama and continuing after Saturday About 30 mi W of Casper on State Hwy 220 with a crest length of 763 feet. morning’s parade, the action gets under way Additional lands downstream are irrigated by Sailboarders, kayakers and water skiiers extol the with the woodchopping events. Events water released through the Alcova Powerplant virtues of this somewhat windy lake 30 miles include axe throwing, pole throwing, log southwest of Casper. Watch for golden eagles at the base of the dam, or over a controlled bucking, axe chopping, team and two-man gracing the towering pines. Although Alcova’s size spillway. The storage capacity of Alcova cross-cutting and chainsaw contests, followed does not rival that of the Pathfinder of Seminoe Reservoir is 189,000 acre feet. by a barbeque. The Wyoming Professional Reservoirs, its recreational opportunities make it a Rodeo sanctioned rodeo follows with a full “must do” when traveling in the area. H Pathfinder Dam and Reservoir About 30 mi W of Casper on State Hwy 220 slate of events including calf roping, team H Bates Hole Stock Trail Constructed for the storage of water on the roping, break-away roping, barrel racing, bare- About 5 mi N of State Hwy 220 on County North Platte River and for irrigation purposes in back riding, saddle bronc, bull riding and steer Road 316 eastern Wyoming and western Nebraska. wrestling. Saturday night brings casino night Stock Driveways were established under a pro- This masonry, arch, gravity-type dam, struc- and dances throughout town. Get some rest vision of the 1916 Stockraising Homestead Act. turally 214 feet in height with a crest length of though, Sunday brings the second day of Local ranch operators pay for trailing privileges 432 feet, is made of granite quarried from near- both the woodchopping and rodeo events. along the Bates Hole Stock Driveway. Trailing by hills. Constructed during 1905-1909,

268 Ultimate Wyoming Atlas and Travel Encyclopedia when a tram cable directly above them gave way. As the cable fell it knocked the men from their scaffolding to the bottom of the canyon I killing them. NCLUDING The other graves are of residents of the area. The farthest to the right is that of infant Leslie Wolf(e) who died from eating poison meant for coyotes. C ASPER

17 No services S OUTHCENTRAL , R IVERTON , L A NE AND ANDER REA R AWLINS

T Martin’s Cove S of Independence Rock on Hwy 220. 328-2953 Independence Rock A Mormon handcart company under the leader- ship of Edward Martin sought shelter from an of the route, which became known as the Oregon looked like to Lydia Allen Rudd with signatures early winter blizzard in a small cove in the flank Trail. Stuart’s diary indicated that he visited the of travelers like herself: of the Sweetwater Rocks about two miles west of site on October 30, 1812. Devil’s Gate. The Martin Handcart Company, the Stuart, however, did not name this giant rock. “July 5, 1852 Came to independence rock about ten last handcart expedition to attempt the Trail in That honor is credited to , who oclock this morning I presume there are a million of 1856, forded the North Platte River near Red held an Independence Day celebration here on names wrote on this rock …” Buttes on October 19 and fought snow, wind and

July 4, 1830, as he led the first wagon train to Section 5 sub-zero temperatures to reach this place in early Travelers climbed this rock not only to scrawl cross the new overland route. Before an audience or carefully engrave their names on the surface, November. Rescuers sent from Salt Lake City of 80 pioneers, he christened the rock in honor of but many read it as if it were a lengthy letter writ- found the company, “in perishing condition.” The the birth date of our nation. ten by their long absent friends or relatives. camp grounds became grave yards as the Martin Independence Rock is most famous for the Although circumstances are quite different today, Company buried their dead. Perhaps as many as names inscribed on its face—the names and dates many of us will do this very same thing. We will 145 of the 576 members of the company froze or of people who passed by this place in search of a climb the rock hoping to locate a name we starved to death. (Access from the Sun Ranch at new life in the frontier. learned in school or perhaps even a family name. Devils Gate. Hiking is required with special con- Named for a fur trader’s Fourth of July cele- sideration for handicapped access. Interpretation bration, this huge rock became the most famous Lydia goes on to write: provided by the BLM and LDS Church.) and anticipated of all trail landmarks. Here the Source: BLM brochure. trail met the cool, clean and clear Sweetwater “I saw my husbands name that he put on in 1849…” T Mormon Handcart Visitor River that would lead it to South Pass. The emi- grants paused to inscribe their names on the She passed through this area three years Center: National Historic Trail “Great Register of the Desert” while they rested after her husband. By locating his name here, 55 miles southwest of Casper on Highway 220 themselves and their livestock. They observed the she knew he had survived, at least to This site commemorates the courage and suffer- national Independence Day (no matter the actual Independence Rock. What a wonderful feeling ing of Mormon pioneers who pulled their belong- date) and congratulated themselves on reaching that must have been! ings in handcarts across the plains and mountains the perceived mid-point in their journey. Only the greatest of imaginations can conjure to avoid persecution in the East. The Visitor Described by most as “looking like a great up a realistic feeling of these terrible hardships Center provides a host of information, from his- beached whale…,” the Rock is now the site of a experienced by so many. But the emigrant’s most toric artifacts and pioneer journals to Family modern Highway Rest Area and State certain and greatest challenge, above all else, was History Research assistance, and more. Visitors Interpretative Site. that of staying alive. can also try their hand at pulling a cart along the It was the names carved in stone that caused Many who traveled this route, however, did trail once traversed by some of these pioneers. Father Peter J. DeSmet to appropriately name this not make it this far. There are some 39,000 emi- place “The Register of the Desert” in 1840. grant graves out in these wide-open spaces along T Independence Rock the trail, marked and, unmarked, with the largest About 35 mi S of Casper on State Hwy 220 As you walk around the rock, you will see hundreds of names carved or chipped into the percentage dying of cholera. The Register of the Desert surface. Possibly one of the earliest signatures to The Mormon Pioneer Trail This granite monolith is one of the more famous be found here is that of “M.K. Hugh, 1824.” landmarks along the Oregon Trail and has served as Other early names include “Hanna Snow, 1844,” The initial movement of the Mormons from a meeting place since the area was first inhabited. “G. Gingham, 1846,” “J. Bower, 1847,” “Milo Nauvoo, Illinois, to the valley of the Great Salt Independence Rock was an important place Ayer, age 29, 1849,” “W.H. Collins, July 4, 1862,” Lake occurred in two segments—one in 1846 and for the Indians who first lived here. This giant and “V.D. Moody, July 24, 1849.” one in 1847. igneous formation of feldspar and mica found its The first leg of the journey across Iowa to the way into many native legends, and later, into the The Names covered around 265 miles. diaries of many westbound pioneers. Today, many names can still be found on this The second leg, from the Missouri River to The first Europeans to visit the rock were magnificent rock, although erosion and time have the valley of the Great Salt Lake covered about members of Robert Stuart’s expedition in 1812. It obliterated a good share of the pioneer’s signa- 1,032 miles. The second leg of the journey began is Stuart who is generally credited with discovery tures. Just imagine what this rock must have on April 5, 1847 and ended on July 24, 1847. www.ultimatewyoming.com 269 Trail Ruts About ten miles north of Muddy Gap, on the north side of the highway, the ruts of the Oregon Trail are etched onto the solid cap rock and are visible from the highway. They are located on private property, but can easily be seen from your vehicle. Devil’s Gate and Split Rock Just to the west of here are several more prominent natural features that were used as trail guides by the emigrants. As you follow Wyoming 220 South, to your right you will notice the Sweetwater River making an abrupt turn. At the point where the river flows through a granite ridge is the location of Devil’s Gate. The river here has cut a chasm 330 feet (99 m) deep. It is 400 feet (120 m) wide at the top, but only 30 feet

All Wyoming Area Codes are 307 (9m) wide at the bottom! There is a scenic turnout on the right side of the road a few miles south of Independence Rock. This turnout provides an excellent opportunity to view the Devil’s Gate and the Sun Ranch. A few miles further south of this turnout you will see signs for the Sun Ranch. This is a one way road to your right that will lead you a few miles to the Sun Ranch headquarters. The Sun Ranch is a his- Devil’s Gate toric Wyoming ranch owned and operated by the Sun family for over 100 years. Recently the Mormon Church purchased the property as an This part of the trip went smoother than the of overlying rock were gradually lessened. The interpretive center for this section of the Mormon previous year’s journey due to better organization, rock then expanded outwardly shedding its sur- Trail. Historic markers for the Pony Express, better provisions and beginning when the trail face layers like an onion. Layers of granite broke Oregon and California trails are located here as conditions were optimal. The lead pioneer party off, one after the other and formed the rounded well as an excellent trail rut. left with 148 people (143 men, 3 women and 2 shape you see today. Of particular interest is the tragic story of the young boys), 72 wagons, 93 horses, 66 oxen, 52 Windblown sand and silt have grooved the Willy/Martin Handcart Company. A stop at the mules, 19 cows, 17 dogs, and some chickens. rock and polished it to a high gloss in a process Sun Ranch is certainly worth while. You will also This hand-picked group was organized into called “windfaceting.” It is because of this smooth find not only well informed but also very friendly two large divisions and further split into compa- surface that the pioneers were able to easily carve folks on hand to make you feel welcome and nies of 50 and 10. This organizational structure their names into the rock. answer your questions. was based on Brigham Young’s plan for migrating Twenty miles (32 km) south of Independence West and included details on camp behavior and A Popular Stop Rock is the Muddy Gap intersection. Turn north devotional practices to be followed. Trappers, emigrants, traders, religious leaders on Wyoming 789/U.S. Highway 287 and eight At Fort Laramie the Mormons crossed to the and followers, and just about everybody else who miles down the road (12.8 km) you will find Section 5 south side of the river and joined the Oregon passed this way, stopped, walked around and another famous landmark known as Split Rock. Trail. At Fort Bridger State Historic Site, they allover this turtleshell-like outcropping of granite. Its summit elevation is 7,305 feet (2,191 m). The struck out on their own and followed the faint That means that just about every person of the notch resembles a gun sight when viewed from year-old tracks of the ill-fated Donner-Reed party. 550,000 or so now estimated to have used the either the east or west and it is visible for more The last 116 miles took 14 days to complete Oregon Trail marveled at this uni ue formation. If than 50 miles. and were very demanding due to difficult terrain, it’s July 4th, We’re on time! weary travelers, worn wagons and weakened live- Each wagon train heading West tried to time Enjoy Your Visit, But Please Follow These Rules stock. Upon arriving at the Valley, this first party its start so the spring grass would be sufficient began planting late crops, laying out streets, to support the animals, without delaying too Many of the travelers left their names on this building shelters and preparing for winter. long to risk the early snows in the mountains. rock, either carved or painted in axle grease. We Mormon emigrants continued to arrive during the Conse quently, everyone was on the trail at the ask you as modern day travelers to help us pro- remaining weeks of summer and fall. same time. The emigrants used the race to arrive tect this historic landmark. Walk around the site Approximately 1,650 people spent their first win- at the rock by the Fourth of July. A huge cele- and even on top to appreciate the view the pio- ter in the valley. The next 20 years would see bration would then take place upon their arrival neers would have seen as they passed through 70,000 Mormons traveling by wagon and hand- with sounds of gunfire, boisterous drinking, and this area. But please do not take away the histori- carts over the Mormon Pioneer Trail. patriotic oration. cal significance of this site by placing your signa- ture on the rock or destroying the ones that are Rock Hard Facts New Beginnings still visible. It’s up to all of us to help save what Independence Rock stands 6,028 feet The sense of freedom, of new opportunities remains here for future generations to appreciate (1,808.3 m) above sea level. The tallest point of and enjoy. the rock is 136 feet (40.8 m) above the surround- and of new beginnings must have been overpow- ing terrain. If one were to walk around the base ering at times to the emigrants. Many chose to Park rules stay behind for a short time and build small com- of this rock, the distance covered would be more • No defacing or writing on the rock. than a mile, or 5,900 feet (1.8 km). The mass of munities along the route, one of which was here Independence Rock is equal to an area of 24.81 at the rock. These small communities, each one • No gathering of artifacts (anything found must acres (9.924 ha). crowded, transitory, and unsanitary, came com- be left there or turned over to State Park per- Many people believe that the shape of this plete with its own graveyard. sonnel on site.) highly polished round outcropping was created Today, it is hard to believe this area once held by glaciers. Not so. A process known to geologists such a community. With the passage of time, all • Metal detectors are not allowed. as “exfoliation” is how the rock came to have its traces of the “town” have been obliterated, recap- • The discharge of firearms and fireworks sleek and round form. turing the innocence of this area before the mass is prohibited. As Independence Rock was slowly uncovered migration began, when the grasses were tall and by erosion, the immense pressures of the weight the natives roamed these parts. • Vehicle parking in designated areas only.

270 Ultimate Wyoming Atlas and Travel Encyclopedia Alkali Flat A snow-lined lake in summer I

Do you see a white ring around Steamboat Lake? NCLUDING During spring when water levels are high, wildlife can be seen in the early morning and late evening hours drinking at the water’s edge. As the water level drops in late summer, glistening

salts of alkaline deposits look much like snow C along the shoreline. During this time, shorebirds ASPER

and waterfowl continue to use the lake, but other S OUTHCENTRAL

wildlife need to look for fresh water. , R Where do you think the animals go to find water if Steamboat Lake dries up in late sum- IVERTON mer? They might enjoy the cool waters of near- by Pathfinder Reservoir or its tributaries, the

North Platte and Sweetwater Rivers. , L A NE AND ANDER Sagebrush Overflights REA Soaring above the sage Bird species such as Sage Grouse, Sage Sparrow, and Sage Thrasher are entirely depend-

ent on healthy sagebrush habitat for meeting R

their life needs. These birds return the favor by AWLINS spreading plant seeds and preying on insects. The Falcon, American Kestrel, and Golden Eagle look for food within the healthy Steamboat Lake sagebrush habitat. They often prey upon small mammals, snakes, and other birds.

• Dogs, cats and other pets must be on a leash. T Pathfinder Reservoir and Dam Sagebrush Critters 30 mi SW of Casper on State Hwy 220, onto There’s more out there than meets the eye! • No killing of wildlife, including rattlesnakes. County Rd 409 for 10 mi Hidden in the sagebrush habitat is a variety of • Please pack out your own trash. Pathfinder, the first dam in eastern Wyoming, is wildlife species. They include the swift prong- near the junction of the Sweetwater and North horn antelope, the chattering Richardson’s • Overnight camping by Special Use permit only. Platte Rivers. Much of the irrigation water supplied ground squirrel, the slithering prairie rattlesnake, Site Hours: open year round, sunrise to sunset daily. by the reservoir flows into Nebraska, but the dam and the wily coyote.

itself was considered an engineering marvel when Healthy sagebrush habitat includes young Section 5 Reprinted from Wind River Country Brochure and completed in 1909. The 214-foot granite structure and old sagebrush stands, together with grass- Wyoming State Parks and Historic Sites Brochure is held together with cement, and steel was hauled land openings. This habitat, referred to as a in wagon teams from Casper. The dam is listed on mosaic of vegetation, provides the proper mix T Devil’s Gate the National Register of Historic Places. of grasses and shrubs for sagebrush-dependent At interpretive site on State Hwy 220 The reservoir is a popular fishing spot with both species to survive. about 12 mi NE of Muddy Gap locals and travelers. The crystalline blue waters are Devil’s Gate is a narrow cleft carved by the home to trout and walleye. The area also boasts Steamboat Lake Sweetwater River through a ridge called the some of Woming’s best sailing and windsurfers take Reservoir of life Sweetwater Rocks-370 feet deep, 1,500 feet long, advantage of the consistent winds. This wetland provides a temporary resting place and only 50 feet wide in places. T Pathfinder Interpretive Center for many species of waterfowl, shorebirds, and Devil’s Gate is among the more interesting songbirds. The wetland’s water supply comes geographical landmarks along the emigrant trails. 30 mi SW of Casper on State Hwy 220 to County Rd 409 for 10 mi from seasonal springs and snowmelt, but by This natural feature became visible approximately late summer, the water level recedes and the 15 miles to the east. The gorge was impassable to This quaint old stone building was once the lake may even dry up. wagons, and the trail passed to the south of the home of the Pathfinder Dam tender; now it hous- Some of the migratory birds stay long ridge, but this dark, gloomy canyon intrigued the es an assortment of exhibits and informative enough to breed and raise their young here. emigrants. Many camped here, and almost all signs. Open in the summer on Saturday from 11- Can you spot the man-made structures along took the detour to inspect the gorge. 5 and Sunday 10-4. the shoreline? These elevated platforms allow Osborne Cross recorded his delight on July H Steamboat Lake ducks and geese to nest above the reach of 10, 1949. “This gap is truly wonderful, being a hungry foxes, weasels, coyotes, and . space not over twenty yards wide and about five Interpretive Signs N of Independence Rock Rest Area on State Pathfinder hundred feet high, having very much the appear- Hwy 220 ance of being chiseled out by the hand of man A safe haven for birds rather then the work of nature.” More than 20 Riparian Habitat Green band of life Birds traveling long distances need to stop and graves are thought to be located in the immedi- rest along the way to gather strength for continu- ate vicinity, although only one is marked, and Riparian vegetation, which is found along ing their journey. Located in several parcels along many emigrant inscriptions can still be found on streams, rivers, lakes, and reservoirs, is more the shores of Pathfinder Reservoir. Pathfinder the rock walls of the gorge. abundant and stays green longer than the vege- National Wildlife Refuge (NWR) provides an This remarkable cleft in the east end of the tation characteristic of the drier uplands. Both important nesting area for migratory birds during Sweetwater Rocks drew diary comments from waterfowl and songbirds depend on food and their annual spring and fall migrations. many pioneers. Many walked and waded in the shelter provided by this plentiful vegetation that The National Audobon Society has joined Sweetwater River through the gorge while their grows in and near the water. with the partners listed below to ensure that this wagons followed the trail through the pass to the Sedges, small grass-like plants, together with Refuge continues to provide a safe haven for east, a route now followed by an access road to cattails and bulrushes, are often found in ripari- migratory birds. Local citizens are helping to the historic Sun Ranch. A BLM interpretive site is an areas. The riparian vegetation along the monitor the condition of the Refuge by surveying located just south of the Gate giving details of the shores of Steamboat Lake provides important bird numbers and species. This information will long and colorful history of the area. shelter and food for many bird species. Can you tell us about the health of both the birds and the Source: National Park Service and BLM brochure. spot any birds along the shoreline? habitat on which they depend on their life needs. www.ultimatewyoming.com 271 How can you get involved in the Pathfinder conservation effort? Contact Wyoming Audubon THE 1856 A fast-traveling group of Mormon mission- at 235-3485 or your local Audobon Chapter for ary organizers who were headed west to Salt more information. HANDCART DISASTER Lake overtook the Willie and Martin Companies. Migratory bird species in North America gen- Although the missionaries had traveled the Trail erally follow one of four migration routes known Cholera, childbirth, Indian attack, drowning at themselves at least once east to west and back as “flyway.” Pathfinder NWR is located within the river crossings, accidents, even cannibalism. again, they encouraged the emigrants to press Central Flyway. Birds stop to feed, nest, and There were lots of ways for emigrants to die on on, knowing what hardships could be in store breed near the Refuge waters. Can you spot western trails in the 1800s. However, mother for them. The missionary leader, Franklin D. geese, mallards, and western grebes on nature was perhaps the most efficient killer of Richards, purchased 100 buffalo robes at Fort the lake below? all. The largest, single disaster ever recorded on You can discover the importance of three Laramie and left instructions for them to be dis- habitat types found on the Refuge by following the Mormon Pioneer Trail, befell two parties of tributed to the emigrants upon their arrival. The the short pathway along the rim overlooking Mormon converts who were pulling handcarts missionaries continued to Salt Lake at good Steamboat Lake. in the late fall of 1856, and this time, it was speed and arrived on October 1st. Richards weather that was the grim reaper. immediately met with Mormon leader Brigham T Seminoe Reservoir and Dam The Mormon Exodus of 1846-47 to Utah Young to apprise him of the situation. About 5 mi S of Pathfinder Reservoir Territory was only the beginning of emigrant In the meantime, early winter storms blast- More than one million acre-feet of water is travel on the overland route or the Mormon

All Wyoming Area Codes are 307 ed eastern Wyoming and the cold, exposure, retained by this 295-foot-high concrete arch. Trail to Utah. Thousands of converts followed in overwork, short rations, and bad decisions completed in 1939, this is the farthest upstream succeeding years. Besides religious freedom, began to take their toll. of the North Platte dams. The reservoir winds moving to Zion offered the hope and opportu- One man in the Willie Company, John through rugged pine-sprinkled mountains and nity of economic freedom, especially for dis- Chislett, recorded …Cold weather, scarcity of white sand dunes. Horseshoe Ridge, a 500-foot placed and poverty-stricken victims of Europe’s food, lassitude and fatigue from over-exertion, cliff visible on the eastern shore of the reservoir, industrial revolution. soon produced their effects. Our old and infirm provides a ready subject for photographers. Moving from Europe to Utah was expensive The area has two state park developed camp- people began to droop, and they no sooner grounds along its northwest shore, open from and not all converts had the money so the lost spirit and courage than death’s stamp April through October. Latter Day Saints Church’s Perpetual Emigration could be traced upon their features. Life went Fish for trout and walleye, or hook on your Fund financed expenses for tens of thousands out as smoothly as a lamp ceases to burn water skis and enjoy this scenic recreational area. of eager overseas emigrants. when the oil is gone. At first the deaths A grasshopper plague descended on Utah occurred slowly and irregularly, but in a few T in 1855 and funds were short. So, an earlier days at more frequent intervals, until we soon About 5 mi S of Pathfinder Reservoir plan, which cut expenses for emigrants was thought it unusual to leave a campground History given the go-ahead and the great handcart without burying one or more persons. The Seminoe Mountains around Seminoe State treks of 1856-1860 were underway. Instead of The Martin Company was several days and Park were once the site for gold prospecting dur- large wagons, handcarts held lighter loads and miles east of the Willie Company, and were in ing the late 1800s. The name “Seminoe” is com- were pulled by humans, thus replacing expen- an even worse predicament than the others monly assumed to come from the Seminole tribe, sive wagons and draft animals. when the bad weather hit. Members of the but is an Americanized spelling of the French Almost 4,400 converts arrived in the United Martin Company had made several serious name Cimineau. Basil Cimineau Lajeunesse was a States during the winter 1855-56. They landed errors in judgement, such as crossing a freezing French trapper in the area in the 1800s. at New York and went by train to Iowa City, Iowa river on foot rather than pay the toll even Seminoe State Park, located on the northwest — the outfitting and jumping off point. The first though they had the money, and by throwing side of the reservoir, was established in 1965 three handcart “companies” of 1856 made it to away the buffalo robes purchased for them at through an agreement between the U.S. Bureau of Section 5 Salt Lake without major incident. They paralleled Reclamation and the Wyoming Recreation Fort Laramie because they were too heavy to Commission (predecessor to Wyoming State the Missouri River from Iowa City to Florence, pull in the handcarts. Parks and Historic Sites). Nebraska; from there they followed the Platte Once the emigrants realized their mistakes, and North Platte Rivers into Wyoming Territory to it was too late to do anything about them. They Facts & Figures Fort Laramie. They continued on the “river road” hoped that help was on the way from Salt Lake, was completed April 1, 1939. following the Sweetwater to South Pass. From several hundred miles away. However, courage, The dam is a concrete arch construction and con- here, they went to Fort Bridger and on to Salt stout hearts and their faith in God, didn’t stop tains 210,000 cubic yards of concrete. It is 295 Lake, traveling part of the Hastings’ Cutoff which winter’s relentless grip or the grim reaper’s vis- feet high, 530 feet long, 15 feet wide at the top, the ill-fated took in 1846. its to their camps. Their journey to Zion had and 85 feet wide at the bottom. The crest eleva- The Willie Company (fourth) and the Martin turned into a death march. For a lot of rea- tion is 6,361 feet. The reservoir has 180 miles of Company (fifth) groups of handcart pullers ran sons—some good, some bad—and a bit of plain shoreline and a reservoir capacity of 1,017,279 into the same problem the Donners did—snow. old bad luck, about 1,000 people were trapped acre feet of water. The 500 people making up the Willie Company on the high plains of Wyoming in danger of Wildlife left Florence, Nebraska on August 18th, 1856 dying to the last man, woman and child. Wyoming wildlife is at its finest in and near followed by 576 people in the Martin Company By early October, the story of the Willie and Seminoe State Park. Patient visitors will be on August 25th, who were in turn followed by Martin Handcart Companies had become three rewarded with a variety of creatures passing by— 385 people in the Hodgett Wagon Train. separate stories—the plight of the Willie big horn sheep, elk, , , antelope, The last half of August is much too late to Company east of South Pass; the Martin coyote, mountain lion, , fox, , travel hundreds of miles overland by wagon or Company, who were even further east between skunk, jack and cottontail rabbit. Bird by foot through Wyoming’s high plains and Fort Laramie and Devil’s Gate; and, the rescue watchers may glimpse the American or expect to reach Salt Lake before the snow flies. efforts originating out of Salt Lake City. plus several types of waterfowl. Bring your binoc- Winter comes early and fast in the mountains When Brigham Young got word of the state ulars, sit back and enjoy! and higher elevations around South Pass. of the handcart pilgrims on the eve of the Fishing In fact, the Willie Company had a general Mormon Church’s semi-annual conference, he Good river fishing can be found along the vote at Florence and with the exception of one wasted no time making a decision. Addressing North Platte River from I-80 at Fort Fred Steele clearthinking man named Levi Savage, voted to members of the church, Young called for imme- State Historic Site all the way to the Gray Reef continue on to Zion. For a lot of bad reasons, diate action in no uncertain terms, …It is to save Area below Alcova Dam. In between lies the which were hotly debated later, over 1,000 the people. This is the salvation I am now seek- famous “Miracle Mile,” well- known for its blue emigrants continued their journey flying in the ing for. To save our brethren that would be apt ribbon fishing. face of common sense and impending winter. to perish, or suffer extremely, if we do not send Seminoe Reservoir offers some great fishing,

272 Ultimate Wyoming Atlas and Travel Encyclopedia them assistance. I shall call upon the Bishops ride in relative comfort to Salt Lake. She toiled soap, until the frozen parts would fall off, after this day. I shall not wait until tomorrow, nor until her way through snow and cold until she came which I would sever the limbs with my scissors. I

the next day, for 60 good mule teams and 12 or to the overlook of the Salt Lake Valley. Seeing Some of the emigrants lost toes, others fingers, NCLUDING 15 wagons. I do not want to send oxen. I want the end of her journey of thousands of miles and again others whole hands and feet… good horses and mules… from Scotland, she took her handcart loaded One young girl went to bed with her family, In addition to teams, supplies, and food, with all her earthly goods, pushed it over a cliff, only to awaken screaming in pain in the night. Brigham called for 40 good young men who and proudly walked into the valley owning only A man was eating her fingers while she slept. C

know how to drive teams, to take charge of the the clothes on her back. He was dragged off into the snow, began eat- ASPER teams that are now managed by men, women, The Willie Company’s arrival in Salt Lake was ing his own fingers, and was found dead the S

and children who know nothing about them… cause for a huge celebration before harsh reali- next morning. OUTHCENTRAL By October 7th, the first rescue group left ty set in. Of the original 500 who had set out for That one incident, which occurred at Willow , R

Salt Lake consisting of “16 good four-mule Salt Lake, 67 were dead, and many other’s had Springs, is the only documented instance which IVERTON teams and 27 hardy young men headed east- lost fingers or entire limbs to frostbite. And even approached the unthinkable actions of the ward with the first installment of provisions.” The worse yet, over half the emigrants were still Donner Party—cannibalism.

people in Salt Lake realized the magnitude of somewhere out on the plains in serious trouble. Even with the aid of food and supplies, the , L A

the situation and kept a steady stream of wag- The last of the handcart emigrants of 1856, deaths continued on the final leg, so many in AND ANDER ons, supplies, and help headed east. By the end the Martin Company and the Hodgett Wagon fact that there is not an accurate count to this REA of October some 250 teams were on the road. Train, were in dire straits by October. Winter had day. The figures range from 135 to 150 fatalities One member of the first rescue group, Harvey struck with a vengeance. Clothing was short, in the Martin Company alone. Add to that num- Cluff, recorded later, … Nine miles brought us rations were shorter, people were dying of expo- ber the 67 deaths recorded in the Willie

down to the Sweetwater River where we camped sure, and hundreds of miles still loomed Company and uncounted deaths of the Hodgett R

for the night. On arising in the following morning between them and safety. It was fast becoming Wagon Train, over 200 people or about one out AWLINS snow was several inches deep. During the two a matter of logistics — getting enough provisions of six perished. It was the greatest single tragedy following days, the storm raged with increasing to hundreds of people facing extinction. in the entire history of the western migration. fury until it attained the capacity of a northern bliz- One of the rescuers, Harvey Cluff wrote, On Through sheer perseverance and unwaver- zard. For protection of ourselves and animals, the arriving at Devils Gate we found the express ing support from Salt Lake, the emigrants finally company moved down the river to where the wil- men awating (sic) our coming up, for as yet made it to the Valley. On November 30, 1856, lows were dense enough to make a good pro- they had no word as to where the companies they arrived in Salt Lake. tection against the raging storm from the north. were. Here we were in a dilemma. Four or five Like so many other human disasters, even The express team had been dispatched ahead as hundred miles from Salt Lake and a thousand before all the emigrants were safely housed in rapidily as possible to reach and give encourage- emigrants with handcarts on the dreary plains Salt Lake, people started looking for someone ment to the faultering emigrants, by letting them and the severity of winter already upon us… to blame. know that help was near at hand. The first rescuers finally found the emigrants Somebody definitely had to be at fault, but The original 500 people making up the 65 miles east of Devil’s Gate at Red Bluffs who exactly? A few whisperings of criticism Willie Company were no longer 500. As they where they had been trapped by a blizzard. And reached the ears of Brigham Young saying that the Section 5 struggled westward on the Trail, each morning they were in pitiful shape. Dan Jones recorded leadership of the Mormon Church was to blame. there were fresh corpses to bury. Captain Willie what he saw, … A condition of distress here A dynamic leader and not given to taking criticism, had left his charges and pressed on ahead to met my eyes that I never saw before or since. Young exploded. In a speech given at the find the help he knew was on the way. Back at The train was strung out for three or four miles. Tabernacle on Temple Square, he didn’t mince camp, John Chislett described the situation, There were old men pulling and tugging their any words, … If any man, or woman, complains …The weather grew colder every day, and carts, sometimes loaded with a sick wife or chil- of me or of my Counselors, in regard to the late- many got their feet so badly frozen that they dren — women pulling along sick husbands — ness of some of this season’s immigration, let the could not walk, and had to be lifted from place little children six to eight years old struggling Curse of God be on them and blast their sub- to place. Some got their fingers frozen; others through the mud and snow. As night came on stance with mildew and destruction, until their their ears; and one woman lost her sight by the the mud would freeze on their clothes and feet. names are forgotten from the earth… frost. These severities of the weather also There were two of us and hundreds needing That same year, 1856, was the eve of yet increased our number of deaths, so that we help. What could we do? another fight for Mormon survival — the Utah War buried several each day. The rescuers bolstered spirits and encour- of 1857, when the Territory was “invaded” by sol- On October 21, the first rescuers arrived and aged the people along the Trail. Their immediate diers of the United States. In many ways, Young in Chislett’s words, Shouts of joy rent the air; goal was to reach Devil’s Gate where the deci- was the leader of a sovereign nation, struggling to strong men wept till tears ran freely down their sion would be made on whether to continue or hold his people and his country together. He furrowed and sun-burnt cheeks…Restraint was to attempt to hole up for the winter. could not afford dissention in the ranks. set aside in the general rejoicing, and as the Between the crossings of the North Platte The best summary of the entire 1856 hand- brethren entered our camp the sisters fell upon and the first crossing of the Sweetwater, 65 peo- cart disaster was written by Wallace Stegner in them and deluged them with kisses. ple died. Once they arrived at Devil’s Gate, they Collier’s magazine, July 6, 1956, “Perhaps their Half of the rescuers pressed on ahead to camped in a sheltered cove two miles west of suffering seems less dramatic because they bore find the Martin Company while the remaining that famous landmark. The spot is still known it meekly, praising God, instead of fighting for life half reinforced the Willie Company people and today as Martin’s Cove. with the ferocity of animals and eating their dead got them on their way. By no means was their More people died at the Cove and many to keep their own life beating, as both the Fremont ordeal over, in fact, a few days later, while others were near death. Because of the logisti- and Donner parties did. And assuredly, the hand- camped on present-day Rock Creek east of cal problems involved in supplying what cart pilgrims were less hardy, less skilled, and less Atlantic City, 15 people died in a single 24-hour amounted to a small city throughout a long win- well equipped to be pioneers. But, if courage and period and were buried in two graves. ter, the decision was made to press on. A small endurance make a story, if human kindness and The Willie Company continued their struggle group of men were chosen to stay behind at the helpfulness and brotherly love in the midst of raw west, meeting the supply trains headed east. They stockade at Devil’s Gate to guard possessions horror are worth recording, this half-forgotten made to it Salt Lake City on November 9th. One which were left there until spring. episode of the Mormon migration is one of the individual story, though, stands out and embodies Ephraim Hanks one of the rescuers, described great tales of the West and of America.” the determination and true grit of the emigrants. the horrors of tending to the wretched travelers, One young Scotch woman—Margret Dalglish …Many of the immigrants whose extremities Reprint of article by Mike W. Brown, —continued to pull her handcart despite offers were frozen, lost their limbs, either whole or in Public Affairs Officer, Rock Springs District, to load her meager possessions in a wagon and part. Many such I washed with water and castile Bureau of Land Management. www.ultimatewyoming.com 273 particularly in June and July, for both trout and between high rocks. This is the most interesting walleye. Both species inhabit the entire reservoir sight we have met with on our journey.” though there are areas of greater concentration for each. State record walleye have been pulled from Later, the Mormon Pioneer Trail and the Seminoe in years past. California and Pony Express Trails came over This piece of land is one of the loveliest in Fishing licenses are required and may be pur- this same ridge. Some 500,000 emigrants fol- Wyoming. Along the western boundary, which chased at—Seminoe: The Seminoe Boat Club; lowed the Trail west. Many travellers called it Popo Agie (pronounced “po-po-zsha”) shares Rawlins: Bi-Rite Drug Store & Sporting Goods the Emigrant Road. with , stands , at 13,255 feet the highest point in the area. and Trails West Taxidermy; Muddy Gap: Three Following the River Forks Muddy Gap Service (gas station); and From here to Split Rock, a day’s trail journey More than 20 other summits rise above 12,000 Miracle Mile: Miracle Mile Ranch. west, the Oregon Trail followed two routes: one feet. The lowest elevation in the Popo Agie is the close to the Sweetwater River, the other a little Middle Fork of the Popo Agie River at 8,400 feet H Devil’s Gate Interpretive Signs on the eastern boundary. Bordering the north At interpretive site on State Hwy 220 about 12 further from it but more direct. mi NE of Muddy Gap side is the Wind River Indian Reservation, out- Capt. commented standing country where visitors must first obtain Sun Ranch August 1, 1852: a permit before entering. In front of you is the Sun Ranch, one of the first “…Frost during the night; morning clear, More than 300 alpine and subalpine lakes large open range ranches in Wyoming. The orig- calm and very beautiful. The road passing and ponds, many filled with trout, send their All Wyoming Area Codes are 307 inal ranch building, which today makes up part occasionally through deep, heavy sand contin- of the Mormon Handcart Visitor Center, was ued up the right bank of the Sweetwater, waters down sparkling streams and over water- contructed in 1872. …The valley is here nearly two miles wide, with falls to the Middle Fork and North Fork of the Tom de Beau Soleil (a French Canadian rolling hills between the two mountain ranges, Popo Agie River and the South Fork of the Little name later anglicized to “Sun”) came to which… form its limits.” Wind River. All the water eventually ends up in Wyoming after the Civil War. He worked as a Stansbury was a federal topographical engi- the Wind River. This rough land features high, trapper and as a military scout with William neer who was mapping both emigrant routes jagged peaks; deep, narrow valleys and “Buffalo Bill” Cody. He also cut railroad ties and a possible right-of-way for the railroad. canyons; sheer granite walls; cirque basins; talus under a contract with the Union Pacific Railroad. slopes; and perennial snowfields along its east- in his book Forty Years on The 1872 cabin was used as headquarters for a ern side. The area, which abuts the Continental the Frontier, wrote this about the Sweetwater successful ranching and hunting guide business. Divide, encompasses about 25 miles of the It later became the “Hub and Spoke Ranch,” River in 1852: “…its beautiful clear cold waters having a southern Wind River Mountain Range, with with operations extending well into the Great forests of lodgepole pine and Douglas fir, Divide Basin. The Sun Ranch is a Registered sweetish taste, caused by alkali held in solu- Engelmann spruce, and subalpine fir. National Historic Landmark. tion…not enough , however, to cause any In a Smithsonian Institute report issued in Portions of the Sun Ranch were acquired apparent injurious effects…” 1879, it was said of the Wind River Mountains, by the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Devil’s Gate Mail Station Saints in 1997. The visitor center, constructed “when a good Indian dies, he falls into a beau- The U.S. Post Office Department contracted tiful stream of bright, fresh water, and is carried mostly by volunteer labor, opened its doors in monthly mail delivery that passed here going to the pleasant grounds [of the Winds]. . . . “ The the spring of 1997 as part of the celebration between Independence, Missouri and Salt Lake of the 150th anniversary of the 1847 Mormon City, Utah. This service normally used light-draft temperature rarely exceeds 80 degrees Pioneer wagon train. wagons in summer and pack mules in winter Fahrenheit, but it may plunge to 40 below zero in the winter. Snow may fall any day of the year, A Tribute to Hardship and remained the only mail delivery through here until late 1858. The Devil’s Gate mail sta- and most of the precipitation is snow. There are Thousands of pioneers journeyed over 1,000 occasional heavy rains in summer, and light miles to reach this point. Illness and death were tion was located one half mile south of the Gate. afternoon thunderstorms are common. common. Everywhere along the trail people

Section 5 Trails to Opportunity died and were buried. Many miles of trails attract a relatively large The Oregon Trail was America’s main street number of visitors, which has led to a few It is estimated that one out of ten emigrants west. Building upon American Indian foot restrictions on camping in some areas. Check who started on the trail died before completing paths, emigrants bound for the Pacific the trip. Roughly 90 percent of the deaths were Northwest used the trail. They were soon fol- with the district ranger. caused by disease, the rest were from childbirth, lowed by Mormons fleeing persecution, gold Courtesy: US Forest Service accidents, and violence. In the late 1840s and seekers rushing to California and the thunder- early 1850s, cholera was reaching epidemic pro- ing hooves of the Pony Express. portions on the trails. Cholera is caught by drink- ing tainted water. Symptoms include high fever, The Way West Bridger, taking the into the Salt vomiting, and dehydration. In a few instances, Following Indian paths, fur trapping mountain Lake Valley. At this time, the Valley was part of almost entire wagon companies were wiped out men traveled west. Astor’s Mexico, a situation that was changed by the by cholera’s incredibly painful and rapid death. opened the trail through the Rockies at South Mexican-American War (1846-48). Buried on this ridge, safe from trampling Pass in 1812. Mountain men guided the first wagon train over it in 1841. Until the Days of Fleeting Glory feet and iron-wheeled wagons, are over 20 Starting in 1860, the California Overland Mail known American Indian and emigrant graves. Transcontinental Railroad was completed in 1869 the Oregon Trail was the way west. As and Pikes Peak Express galloped into history The Emigrant Road many as 500,000 men, women and children and the legend of the Pony Express was born. The Oregon Trail passed over the ridge to the journeyed this way over some 2,000 miles of For 18 months, “wiry young men” on fast hors- east of Devil’s Gate, Good grass, water and the deserts, plains and moutains. es carried the mail, covering the 1600 miles shelter of the hills made this a popular campsite. from St. Joseph, Missouri to Sacramento, Yellow Metal California in 10 days. Explorer Brevet-Captain John C. Fremont, With the discovery of gold in California in 1848, 1842: the rush was on! By 1850, nearly 75,000 Why Wyoming? “In about three miles, we reached the entrance “49’ers” traveled through this valley. Numerous There was no other route across the west that of a kanyon where where the Sweet Water Trail cutoffs were developed that saved time or provided the three essential things needed for issues upon the more open valley we had made for easier going. Some were pioneered travel; good water every day; a dependable sup- passed over. The usual road passes to the right by California emigrants and are known today as ply of grass; and, a passable grade to and of this place…Wilderness and disorder were the California Trail. through the which can be the character of the scenery…” found only at South Pass. Seeking Zion Oregon emigrant James Mathers stopped Church leader Brigham Young led the first The Cleft in the Rock here July, 1846, and wrote: Mormon wagon train west along the trail in Devil’s Gate is a 370-foot high, 1,500-foot long “…encamped above the pass of the river, 1846-47. He followed the Oregon Trail to Fort fissure carved over the centuries by the

274 Ultimate Wyoming Atlas and Travel Encyclopedia Sweetwater River. It was a major landmark on destruction has been by no means as great as These natural landmarks of the Sweetwater the Oregon Trail…a pleasant change for weary upon the North Fork of the Platte and the cross- Valley allowed the travelers to make note of travelers on the four day trek across the rough, ing over to the Sweetwater.” their progress along the trail. dry country from the North Platte River. Locating good water, forage for their animals I NCLUDING The Pony Express and Overland Stage and fuel for fires was the main concern each Fr. Pierre-Jean DeSmet, S.J., 1841 coaches followed these routes; the Pony day for the emigrants crossing the prairie. “…Travelers have named this spot the Devil’s Express changing horses at Plant’s Station a few Wagons traveled between 16 and 20 miles Entrance [Devil’s Gate]. In my opinion they miles from here. a day, depending on the weather and terrain. should have rather called it Heaven’s Avenue.” Legend of Devil’s Gate They were built sturdy yet lightweight. Oxen C ASPER Goldrush 49’er, J.G.Bruff, wrote: and Arapahoe legend is one explana- were preferred over mules and horses for haul- tion of how Devil’s Gate was formed. A power- ing the wagons. Though oxen were slower, they S

“…some of the boys clambered up the rocks OUTHCENTRAL on the north side of the Gate…where they fired ful evil spirit in the form of a tremendous beast adapted better to the strenuous journy and vari- , R with enormous tusks ravaged the Sweetwater ous conditions on the trail.

pistols and threw down rocks, pleased with the IVERTON reverberation, which was great. I made a careful Valley, preventing the Indians from hunting and Provisions had to last for a possible six sketch of this remarkable gorge.” camping. A prophet informed the tribes that the month journey as supplies were scarce or very Great Spirit required them to destroy the beast. costly if purchased at stations along the way.

Martin’s Cove They launched an attack from the mountain Many emigrants took too many belongings and , L A

Two miles to the northwest, nestled at the foot passes and ravines, and shot countless arrows soon found their animals suffering. Possessions AND ANDER REA of the Sweetwater Rocks, is Martin’s Cove. Here into the evil mass. The enraged beast, with a would be left along the trail to lighten the Captain Edward Martin’s exhausted company of mighty upward thrust of its tusks, ripped a gap wagon load. Mormon handcart emigrants sought shelter in the mountain and disappeared through the from an early winter storm in November of gap, never to be seen again. History Named in Stone 1856. Of 576 men, women and children, 145 Independence Rock is one of the most famous Robert L. Munkres, “Independence Rock and landmarks on the Oregon Trail. Emigrants want- R had died before rescue parties from Salt Lake AWLINS City reached them. ed to reach the rock by the Fourth of July to “A condition of distress here meet my eyes ensure passage over the western mountain that I never saw before or since. The ranges before winter snows. (Mormon) train was strung out for two or three Wyoming Tidbits Many theories vary about naming the rock miles. There were old men pulling and tugging but most versions originate with events that their carts, sometimes loaded with a sick wife Mormon leader Brigham Young established happened on the Fourth of July. or children, women pulling along sick hus- the first commercial ferry operation in the William Sublette, and early mountain guide, bands, little children six to eight years old strug- Rocky Mountain area near the future town of is credited with christening it in honor of our gling through the mud and snow. As night Casper in 1874. nation’s birthdate on July 4th, 1830. One ver- came on the mud would freeze on their sion was based on the Rock standing independ- clothes and feet. We gathered on to some of ent from the other rock formations on the plains. the most helpless with our riatas tied to the Explorer John Fremont wrote in 1842 upon carts, and helped as many as we could into Devil’s Gate” in Annals of Wyoming, April 1968. visiting the Rock, “…the rock is inscribed with…many a name famous in the history of camp…Such assistance as we could give was H The Oregon Trail Section 5 rendered to all until they finally arrived at this country…are to be found among those of The Oregon Trail passed over the ridge to the traders and travelors…some of those have Devil’s Gate fort, about the first of November. right of Devil’s Gate. Good grass, water and the There were some 1,200 in all, about one half been washed away by the rain, but the greater shelter of the hills made this a popular camp- number are not very “legible.” with handcarts and the other half with teams. site. Oregon emigrant James Mathers stopped The winter storms had now set in in all their Names were sometimes painted with ordi- here July 8, 1846, and wrote: “…encamped nary paint, wagon tar or with a mixture of black severity. The provisions we took amounted to above the pass of the river, between high rocks. almost nothing among so many people, many powder, buffalo grease and glue. Others were This is the most interesting sight we have met carved into the hard stone with tools carried for of them now on very short rations, some with on our journey.” almost starving. Many were dying daily from wagon repairs. Mormons stationed professional exposure and want of food.” H Devil’s Gate Mail Station stone cutters at the rock to engrave names for —Daniel W. Jones, 1856 The Devil’s Gate Mail Station was located here. one to five dollars a name. The Post Office Department contracted monthly Few names remain today, as lichen, weather Devil’s Gate mail delivery along this route from independ- and time are eroding them away. Devil’s Gate, the 370-foot high, 1500-foot long ence, Missouri, to Salt Lake City, Utah. This serv- Vandalism and graffiiti are also contributing cleft, carved over the centuries by the ice, using light wagons in summer and pack to the destruction of this historic national land- Sweetwater River, was a major landmark on the mules in winter, remained the sole mail service mark. Please preserve and respect our Oregon Trail. A pleasant change for weary travel- until late 1858. John M. hockaday and George Wyoming heritage. ers coming across the rough, dry country from Chorpenning established, under contract, this sys- the North Platte River, a four day trek. Goldrush The Ox-Team Monument Expedition tem of relay stations. These pack-mule stations In 1852 and estimated 50,000 pioneers passed 49’er, J. G. Bruff, wrote of Devil’s Gate: “…some preceded regular stagecoach service to Utah and of the boys clambered up the rocks on the Independence Rock on their way west. Among California. Plant’s Station, a few miles west of this number was the family of 21-year-old Ezra north side of the Gate…where they fired pistols here, was used later as one of the stagecoach Meeker, recently of Eddyville, Iowa, but natives and threw down rocks, pleased with the rever- stations on the route to Utah and California. beration, which was great. I made a careful of Indiana. Meeker, his wife Eliza, and their sketch of this remarkable gorge.” H Independence Rock infant son, arrived at Puget Sound, Washington Interpretive Signs Territory, in October 1852. They eventually set- Sweetwater River At Independece Rock Rest Area tled in the Puyallup Valley, where over the years From here to Split Rock, a day’s trail journey on State Hwy 220 they experienced success and failure in farming, west, the Oregon Trail followd two routes: one principally in raising hops. Indepedence Rock: What is the close to the Sweetwater River, the other further Keenly aware of the national significance of Significance of Prospect Hill? from it but more direct. Capt. Howard Stansbury the Oregon Trail in the development of the Left of Independence Rock on the horizon, sits comments August 1, 1852: a small but very important peak, Prospect Hill. American Pacific Northwest, Meeker wrote sev- “…the road passing occasionally through This landmark is named because “… from the eral books on the subject. In 1906, greatly deep, heavy sand continued up the right bank summit…is a grand prospect of the surround- concerned that the Oregon Trail would fade of the Sweetwater…the valley is here nearly ing country. …” from memory, he decided to retrace the old two miles wide, with rolling hills between the From atop Prospect Hill, the emigrants trail eastward with covered wagon and ox- two mountain ranges, which…form its limits. would have a good view of Independence Rock, team, for the purpose of permanently marking About a dozen burnt wagons and nineteen Devil’s Gate and Split Rock for the first time. the trail. He called this journey the Ox-Team dead oxen passed today along the road; but the Monument Expedition. www.ultimatewyoming.com 275 The presence of the 75-year-old pioneer allowing emigrants a choice: a shortcut or Time and Understanding with his long white beard, his considerable pro- water and forage. Thousands of immigrants migrated past the motional skills, and the enthusiasm he engen- Sublette Cutoff…a shortcut through 50 point whre you are now standingon their way dered brought about a generous response from waterless miles. The other fork went southwest to settle the “new frontier” and begin new communities along the old trail. As a result, a to Ft. Bridger, adding 46 extra miles but favoring lives. They brought with them the coming of line of stone monuments now marks the the livestock. a new age. course of the trail from The Dalles, Oregon, Church Butte…and eroded sandstone for- The abundant wildlands and free-ranging across the mountains and plains to Kansas. mation named for its shape. wildlife seemed limitless to those early set- Fort Bridger…an oasis where good water, tlers. They believed such vast natural Here at Independence Rock he wrote: grass and necessary supplies could be had. resources would last forever. Along with the July 3 1906, We drove over to the “Rock”, from settlers, however, came new ideas and tech- Impressions at the Rock and Devil’s Gate the “Devil”s gate, a distance of six miles, and nologies, railroads and more settlers. Soon, Many emigrants recorded their daily struggles camped at 10:00 for the day…I selected a the natural resources of Wyoming were more spot on the westward sloping face of the stone and observations in diaries, letters and jour- readily available to the new settlers and the for the inscription, “Old Oregon Trail, 1843-57.”, nals while traveling the Oregon-California-Utah rest of the world. near the present traveled road, where people Trail. Enough of these documents survive that The unrestricted use of these natural can see it…and inscribed it with as deep cut one can glimpse at the experiences of a vari- resources quickly lead to diminishing wildlife letters as we could make it with a dulled, cold, ety of people, from teenage children to adults. and wildlands. Eventually, conservation efforts All Wyoming Area Codes are 307 chisel, and painted, with sunken letters with the Some entries are brief notations on travel sprang up to preserve wildlife and the wildlands best of sign writer’s painting oil. On this expedi- conditions while others are very descriptive on which wildlife lived. tion, where possible, I have in like manner and informative. As we grow to understand our relationship inscribed a number of boulders, with paint only, Rachel Taylor, age 15, 1853 with the earth, we realize that our future well- which, it is to be hoped, before the life of the bing depends on our willingness and desire to paint has gone out, may find living hands to July 21st Started in good season and about act responsibly when we use the earth’s pre- inscribe deep into the stone; but here on this noon reached the Sweetwater, a swift clear cious natural resources-her soil, water, air, plants huge boulder, I hope the inscription may last stream. Later in the day passed and animals. for centuries. Independence Rock. We forded the river here Wyoming’s vast natural wildlands are as and were somewhat hindered. Encamped important to people as they are to over 600 Meeker continued his 1906 odyssey near the river where grass is abundant. We species of wildlife. A measure of our future through major eastern cities to Washington, have here a frightful as well as romantic situ- may very well be reflected in our ability to D.C., where on November 29 he met with ation. Just back of us Independence Rock responsibly conserve wildlife and preserve its President Roosevelt. In subsequent years habitat, for we all share the same space, food, Meeker continued his promotion of the Oregon stands out in bold relief, and in front of us shelter and water. Trail. In 1916 he made the journey in a yawns the Devils Gate. Pathfinder model automobile, and in 1924 he July 22nd Today a party of us go to explore the Independence Rock was flown over the trail by army pilots. The old Gate and found the place as wild and rugged Thousands who traveled the Oregon Trail in pioneer died in Seattle, Washington, at the age as could be imagined. central Wyoming were unaware that they of 97 on December 3, 1928. were the beneficiaries of a long series of Cecella Adams & Parthenia Blank, twin sisters, geological events. The granite peaks around Wyoming Landmarks on the Trail ages 23, 1852 you are mountains that rose, sank and then Emigrants depended on known land marks and were buried in sand and ashy sediments. landscape features to guide them in their jour- 25 Sun W.W. this morning we started at 3 Erosion exposed their summits and created ney west. Guidebooks were available providing o’clock to feed and get breakfast Sand very the Sweetwater Valley, part of an east-west detailed descriptions and trail mileage. Even deep and dealt very troublesome Stoped for subtle features such as springs, alkali lakes, passageway through the Rockies. The route

Section 5 dinner opposit Independence Rock. It is a great was used by game animals, Native ravines, bluffs and aspen groves were noted curiosity but we were all so tired that we could Americans and fur trappers, followed at mid- with considerable detail to aid in the long trek. not go to the top of it It is almost entirely cov- century by wagon train and handcart emi- Within the territory that is now Wyoming ered with names of emigrants. Went on to the grants, stagecoach passenger and Pony were some outstanding trail landmarks; Fort Devil’s Gate and encamped, this is a great Express riders. For some this was the halfway Laramie, , Red Buttes, Prospect Hill, curiosity but we have not time to visit it and point in a 2,000-mile trek from the Missouri Independence Rock, Devil’s Gate, Split Rock, regret it very much. Passed 3 graves Forded River to the West Coast. Arriving here early in Three Crossings, Ice Slough, South Pass, Pacific the Sweet water M 16 “ Springs, Parting of the Ways, Church Butte and July, emigrants celebrated Independence Fort Bridger. Amelia Hadley, age 26, 1851 Day. In July 1841, Jesuit missionary Pierre Fort Laramie…a military post at the eastern Jean De Smet wrote of this granite landmark: foot of the Rockies and an essential supply and Monday June 16…This is an independent rock “The first rock which we saw, and which truly service depot. standing aloof from the rest of the mountains, deserves the name, was the famous Independence Rock and Devil’s and has a triangular appearance look like a Independence Rock. It is of the same nature Gate…Imposing landmarks that were a Fourth great rock tooled down from the rest of the as the Rocky Mountains. At first I was led to of July meeting place for many emigrants and mountains. It has the appearunce of a court believe that it had received this pompous often described as “sublime” and “a natural house standing in the centre with a block of I name from its isolated situation and the curiosity.” never seen any thing more splendid see a solidity of its base; but I was afterward told Three Crossings… where the Sweetwater great many names whom I knew” that it was called so because the first travel- ers who thought of giving it a name arrived River had to be crossed three times within a James Akin, Junior… mile and a half. at it on the very day when the people of the Ice Slough…a marshy area where water col- Friday July 2nd 1852 “Travel 18 miles-sandy United States celebrate the anniversary of lected, froze and was kept insulated beneath road and dusty-pass Independence rock-cross their emancipation from Great Britain…lest it the tundra-like sod. Ice could be dug a foot or sweet water-pass devils gate-camp near sweet might be said that we passed this lofty mon- more below the ground surface, providing trav- water—not much grass” ument of the desert with indifference, we elers a luxury in the summer months. cut our names on the south side of the rock South Pass…a gradual ascent over the con- under initials (I. H. S.) which we would wish tinental divide. It marked the long-awaited Wyoming Tidbits to see engraved everywhere, and along with Oregon country and the separation of waters a great number of others, some of which into the Atlantic or Pacific Ocean. In 1874 a railroad car filled from the Rawlins perhaps ought not be found anywhere. On Pacific Springs…a marshy meadow provid- red paint mines headed east, where its cargo account of all these names, and of the dates ing good grass and the first water flowing west. was used to paint the Brooklyn Bridge. that accompany them, as well as of the Parting of the Ways…a fork in the trail hieroglyphics of Indian warriors.

276 Ultimate Wyoming Atlas and Travel Encyclopedia Independence Rock first wagon train to cross the overland route, visitors to enjoy the majestic beauty of the land- Father DeSmet, early missionary, on July 5, christened Independence Rock in honor of the mark while refreshing themselves. 1841, surnamed this rock “The Great Record of nation’s birthdate. I the Desert” on account of the many names and First Lodge of Masons NCLUDING dates carved on its surface. Prehistory and Geology The first lodge of Masons in what is now the It was an important landmark and camp site The Sweetwater causeway was probably first State of Wyoming, was convened on for the emigrants of the Oregon and Utah Trails used by animals. Early North American Indians, Independence Rock on July 4, 1862 by a body crossing this territory from 1840 to 1869. following migratory animal herds, also used this of Master Masons who were traveling west on overland passage. When their descendants, the Old Oregon Trail. To commemorate this C The first Masonic lodge held in Wyoming ASPER was opened on this rock on July 4, 1862. including the Shoshone, Arapahoe, and other event Casper Lodge, No. 15, A.F. & A.M. of Plains tribes acquired the horse, the animal casper, Wyoming, held memorial services here S The rock is of igneous origin consisting of OUTHCENTRAL red and white feldspar and mica. Marks on the hooves and the poles of their travois wore the on July 4th, 1920. , R trail deeper and wider. sides show the action of the glacier, which IVERTON crossed this part of the country in the Pre- The geologic formation of Independence H Pronghorns and Sagebrush At turnout just S of Martin’s Cove Oligocene period. Rock is shown in the 3 diagrams at right. Of all our magnificent big game animals, only the

Early Eocene Time, 50 million years ago. , L Early Ranching pronghorn antelope cannot be traced back to The Granite Mountains were uplifted. A By 1869 people gradually began to settle this AND ANDER Eurasia. Other big game animals are believed to REA Sedimentary rocks were stripped by streams area. Cattle herds which had multiplied and have migrated to the continent via the now from this rising fold, causing the granite core to overstocked Oregon range were driven back sunken Bering land mass located between Siberia be exposed, a part of which is Independence along the Oregon Trail to graze the empty and Alaska. Thus, it can be said that the prong- Rock, shown on the diagram as I.R. plains. Other herds came to Wyoming, horn is a true native of North America. Montana and Colorado from the great Texas Miocene Time, 15 million years ago. R

The pronghorn is not a true antelope and AWLINS herds. The journey’s end for many herds were The broad granite core of the Granite belongs to an entirely different family well watered valleys such as along the Mountains sagged downward several thousand (Antilocapridae) than other antelope. The prong- Sweetwater River. feet. As a result, most of this once-majestic Although the Valley of the Sweetwater was mountain range became lower than the basins horn is the only living representative of this fam- once an active scene of westward migration, to the north and south and was largely buried ily. Like other horned animals (i.e. cattle, sheep, today it is a vast grazing land used by owners of by enormous amounts of gray, windblown sand. goats) the pronghorn grows hollow horn sheaths working ranches. Independence Rock and the In some places the sand accumulated to a composed of fused hairy fibers. It is the only ruts of the Oregon Trail remain as evidence that thickness of 3000 feet. horned animal in the world that sheds and a nation once passed this way. regrows its sheaths annually and is the only Independence Rock as you see it today. horned animal with a branched or pronged horn. Military Involvement Most of the sediments that buried the rounded Members of the deer family (i.e. deer, elk, Increased travel along the Oregon Trail and the summits of the Granit Range have been moose) grow antlers, not horns, of solid bone, construction of a telegraph line along this route stripped away. Summits such as Independence which are also shed and regrown each year. The led the Indians to the realization that their exis- Rock have been re-exposed and appear today pronghorn is also one of the world’s fastest ani- tence was threatened by another civilization. As essentially as they were at the time of their bur- mals and has been clocked at speeds up to 70 a result, violence between emigrants and Section 5 ial 15 million years ago. miles per hour. Indians increased. By 1860-61 several small military garrisons were built to protect travelers The Preservation of Despite healthy population numbers today, the and keep the communication lines open. Independence Rock pronghorn once faced near extinction. Pressure The Three Crossing Station was located An important landform like Independence Rock from settlers and market hunters reduced a thriv- about 18 miles north and west of this site. It is protected and preserved only through the ing population to about 5,000 pronghorns by was a sturdy stockade, manned by one non- efforts of many people and organizations. Not 1903. From 1908-1915, the pronghorn hunting commissioned officer and 6 privates. all attempts at preservation and commemora- season in Wyoming was closed in order to allow Sweetwater Station, located about 2 miles tion are acceptable by current standards, how- the population to recover. Today, nearly two- northeast of Independence Rock was a tele- ever, and some actions left permanent scars on thirds of all the world’s pronghorn antelope are graph relay station, military supply base, as well the National Historic Landmark. found within a three hundred mile radius of as a Pony Express and Overland Stage station. Past attempts to memorilize an event or Casper and the state hosts a total pronghorn pop- Both sites were abandoned in 1866. person by the placement of a plaque on the ulation of nearly a half-million animals. Rock damaged the surface. Today, nine bronzed The Great Emigration legends, bolted to this igneous summit are Pronghorns depend on sagebrush for food in the Independence Rock was one of the most mute testimony to us about people of the winter and Wyoming features more vast expanses noted Oregon Trail landmarks. Between 1848 immediate past and tell us what they believed of sagebrush than any place in North America. and completion of the transcontinental rail- to be important about their history. Considering the relationship between pronghorns road in 1869, the trail was the major route and sagebrush, it is not hard to see why followd by emigrants from Independence, A preservation ethic was fostered by public knowledge of the importance of the site. Public Wyoming has more pronghorn antelope than any Missouri to California, Utah and the other place in the world. Williamette Valley of Oregon. gatherings and celebrations held by the Rock Father Pierre DeSmet, a Jesuit missionary, over the years, including Independence Day dubbed the rock “The Register of the Desert” commemorations, Mason Lodge celebrations, 18 Food for at one time it had an estimated 40,000 and a National Boy Scout Jamboree, helped names engraved on its surface. Almost all of build public awareness. Bairoil the names, sometimes applied with a mixture As part of the united States bicentennial cel- This was a company town for the Bair Oil of powder, buffalo grease and glue, are now ebration, the State of Wyoming established Company, founded by Charles Bair in 1916. Prior coverd with lichens, mother nature’s eraser, Independence Rock State Historic Site with to becoming an oilman, Bair made his money as a which is slowly decomposing the rock. administratie responsibilities given to the sheep mogul. Bairoil’s claim to fame is a hang- Wyoming Recreation Commission. In an effort gliding world record, set in 1989 by Kevin Fur Trade and Naming the Rock to retain the undisturbed atmosphere surround- Christopherson, who rode an updraft 287 miles Eastward-moving Astorian fur traders in 1812 ing the rock, development at the site was kept from here to North Dakota. were probably the first white men to discover to a minimum. A fence placed around the area Independence Rock. Regardless of the date of of the historical inscriptions reduces contempo- Lamont discovery, the rock was a well-known landmark rary damage. Rancher James Lamont, who established several to the fur trapping mountain men. Hundreds and thousands of people stopped windmills in the area, gave his name to this little Theories about naming the rock vary, but here to rest, to meet, and to picnic and the area town. Its now in the heart of Lost Soldier Oil one likely version states that on July 4, 1830, continues to serve in the same capacity as Field, so keep your eyes open for both windmills William Sublette, leader of the Independence Rock State Historic Site, allowing and oil pumps. www.ultimatewyoming.com 277

287 Inver

RAWLINS Blvd ness

Hig

hley Blvd

3rd St

E Brooks St E Kendrick St Harshman St 287

E Murray St Bonanza St

McMicken St

All Wyoming Area Codes are 307 Daley St

W Walnut St Colorado St Mahoney St

Birch St 7th St Mahoney St Spruce St Utah St 19

14th St 22 Airport Rd 11th St 1st St 30 2nd St 287 W Maple St3rd St 4th St 5 30 6th St th St 7th St 8th St

10th St 80 30 W Cedar St 215

30 Washington St W Center St E Center St 21 State St E State St E State St Bennett St W Hugus St 211 E Davis St E Davis St E Miller St E Miller St 30 80 E Donnel St 80 30 Map not to scale 214

long, north trending fold in the earth’s crust. Food, Lodging Food, lodging 19 The geologic feature rises a thousand feet 20 Rawlins above the surrounding plains. Granite rocks that Rawlins I-80 Exit 214 Pop. 9,006, Elev. 6,755 range in age from 2.6 billion years to 10 million years are exposed along its crest and slopes. 21 Food, Lodging General John A. Rawlins aided General Grenville The reddish rocks that comprise much of the Dodge with protection of workers laying the Union distant hills are the Flathead Sandstone Rawlins I-80 Exit 211 Section 5 Pacific Railroad in 1868. When Dodge discovered a (Cambrian) which is 520 million years old. The spring here, Rawlins said he’d like to have a spring gray strata that overlie the Flathead Sandstone named for him, because they were so refreshing. 22 Food, Lodging are part of the Madison Limestone Dodge obliged him then and there, and the town (Mississippian Period), a 360 million year old took the name of Rawlins Springs when it was rock unit. Both the Flathead Sandstone and established. It was later shortened to Rawlins, to avoid confusion with nearby Rock Springs. Madison Limestone were deposited in shallow In 1889, after the Wyoming Territorial Prison seas which once covered this area. The had burned down in Laramie, it was officially Flathead Sandstone contains hematite, a red moved to Rawlins. The soon-to-be State iron mineral, that was mined in this area from Penitentiary (Wyoming achieved statehood in 1870 to the early 1900s. 1890) was not completed until 1901. During that The now abandoned mines were located in time, the town had grown, and the prison ended the rock outcrops located a mile to the south up being in the middle of it. In 1981, a new of this sign. Some of the mined hematite was prison site was established south of town, where used as a “barn red” paint pigment noted for inmates are housed today. The old Frontier Prison its durability and covering qualities. This popu- is now a museum and historic site. lar “Rawlins Red” enjoyed the distinction of Rawlins is also known for being the site of an being selected in 1893, as the paint for the iron oxide deposit mined for paint pigment. newly constructed Brooklyn Bridge. Hundreds “Rawlins Red” paint is still used on barns and of tons of ore were extracted annually between houses across America, and was the original paint 1879 and 1886, and the paint made from it T Old Frontier Prison chosen for the Brooklyn Bridge, which was was used all across the country on a wide vari- 5th and Walnut St in Rawlins. 324-4422 approved by General Rawlins himself, then ety of buildings and structures. Cost increases While outlaws roamed the windswept high Secretary of War for the U.S. Government. for extracting, shipping and processing the ore plains, canyons and mountains of post-Civil War as well as technological advances in pain man- T Rawlins Uplift Wyoming, the territorial legislature was planning ufacture eventually led to permanent closure of a state-of-the-art penitentiary at Rawlins in antici- Just north of town, this jutting ridge of stratified the mines. rock is full of fossils and a variety of minerals. pation of statehood. This new Wyoming State Penitentiary, which would serve from 1901 until M Wyoming Ranch Company, LLC 1981, would send a strong message to these free- H Rawlins Paint Mines Rawlins and Medicine Bow. Just N of Rawlins on U.S Hwy 287 321-7777 or 925-210-0560 wheeling desperados… Wyoming would no The hills located to the south and west (your longer be a haven for the lawless! left) are part of the Rawlins Uplift, a 40 mile The Old Pen, as the Wyoming Frontier Prison

278 Ultimate Wyoming Atlas and Travel Encyclopedia is affectionately called today, is “haunted by histo- practiced medicine from 1893 and maintained her recorded into this institution was on July 16, ry” around every corner. Tales of great train rob- license until her death in 1962 at the age of 96. 1891. Starting in December of 1901 prisoners bers, wily escapes and of women driven to crimes The Post Office and sign from Fort Fred were transferred from Laramie to Rawlins and I of passion are told on the regularly scheduled Steele are on display. The Army used Fort Steele this transfer was completed in 1904. Of all pris- NCLUDING guided tours offered daily from April thru October. from 1868 to 1886 to protect the building of oners incarcerated in this institution, probably Group tours and off-season tours are also available. the railroad. the most publicized was Bill Carlisle the great Stand inside the tiny dark cells, sit in the gas Also displayed are sheepwagons, various train robber. The total capacity of inmates that chamber, fill your senses with the history of the western saddles, sidesaddles, McClellan saddles could be incarcerated was 373. C

wild west. Observe artwork with an ominous mes- and tack, a sample of brands from the area, one ASPER sage, walk within the great stone walls. Visitors to of 6 hand painted on silk original state flags, 23 Food S the prison will see the place where 9 prisoners newspapers dating from 1879, a turn-of-the- OUTHCENTRAL were hanged and 5 prisoners were executed by century buggy, a 1920 American La France Sinclair , R lethal gas. Be part of an unpleasant but necessary Hook ‘n Ladder 52 foot long fire truck, a mys- Pop. 423, Elev. 6,592 IVERTON chapter in mankind’s history of Wyoming. tery safe that was found behind a wall of a Established as a company town for the oil refin- Visitors may browse thru history in the prison building that was torn down in 1983, and shoes ery in 1923, this town was originally named museum where historical information sits side- made from the skin of Big Nose George and the by-side with confiscated inmate-made weapons Parco, for the Producers Oil and Refinery , L

lower portion of his skull. A

Company (POR-co?). When the Sinclair AND ANDER and an exhibit of the movie, “Prison”, filmed on The museum is open year round and admis- REA Company bought the refinery in 1934, the name location at the Old Pen. The Old Pen Gift Shop sion is free. Call for hours. was changed to reflect the new ownership. It was offers souvenirs and western gifts as well as Excerpts from museum brochure. inmate-made crafts of leather, horsehair items and not until 1967 that homes and public buildings jewelry. The proceeds from the tours and gift T Wyoming Peace were actually sold to the employees and the town government. A peaceful community with several shop are returned to the Old Pen for historical Officers Museum R and operational use. 5th and Walnut in Rawlins. 344-4422 mission style buildings, an ornate fountain in the AWLINS Portions excerpted from prison brochure. center of town, and an inn listed as a National This museum is located the Frontier Prison Historic Place, Sinclair is often overlooked by Photo credit: Old Pen Joint Powers Board Museum. You will see descriptions and photos of passing travelers. various inmates who once occupied the facility. There are also various exhibits of artifacts relating to T Parco/Sinclair Museum law enforcement, including memorials. There is a At the Town Hall in Sinclair. 324-3058 also a gift shop. The museum is open year around. Colorful exhibits of items from Wyoming’s past H Rawlins are on display in this quaint museum which is At front of Rawlins City Hall in Rawlins housed in an old bank building. Self-guided tours introduce visitors to the history of Parco, the In the summer of 1867, a survey party led by town whose name was changed when Sinclair Oil General Grenville M. Dodge seeking a route for Company bought the refinery in 1934. Open 1-4 the Union Pacific Railroad, stopped one half p.m. during summer months, the museum also mile southwest of here. welcomes visitors who stop at town hall next General John A. Rawlins, a member of the door if the museum is closed. Section 5 party, spoke of the spring there as the most gracious and acceptable of anything he had had on the march and said that if anything 24 No services was ever named after him he wanted it to be T Carbon County Museum a spring of water. Fort Steele 9th and Walnut in Rawlins. 328-2740 General Dodge replied: “We will name this Located 12 miles east of Rawlins on Highway 80, then north two miles along the west bank of the Carbon County in its original form was traversed Rawlins Springs.” by the Oregon Trail, The Bozeman Trail, Overland Platte River, Fort Steele stands just across the Trail, Cherokee Trail, the Outlaw Trail, the Union H Wyoming State Penitentiary Union Pacific tracks. It was established in 1868 as Pacific, the original and ulti- 5th and Walnut St in Rawlins a fort to protect the Overland Stage Line and the Union Pacific railroad from Indian attacks. Four mately Interstate 80. Parts of Carbon County Before Wyoming was granted statehood, prison- companies evolved comprised of three hundred were in the Louisiana Purchase in 1803, the ers were incarcerated at the territorial prison men; the companies served to safeguard travelers Mixican Secession in 1843, and the Texas located in Laramie. This was by Act of Congress and to construct the fort. Soon afterward, a town Annexation in 1845. of January 24, 1873 and the territorial prison half-mile to the south was born, named Rawlins has always been the county seat of was completed December 23, 1873. It housed Brownsville. Due to its numerous saloons and Carbon County. In 1870 a formal government 67 prisoners in a formidable stone barn with gambling joints, the Army forced Brownsville off was started in Carbon County and in 1890 gabled roof and heavily barred windows. The government land. The town relocated three miles Wyoming became a state. Rawlins has long been National Territorial Building Act of 1888 provid- west of the fort and renamed itself Benton. a transportation center. It served as a railhead for ed that a penitentiary building for the use of the stage and freight lines serving Casper, the Big territory shall be erected in the City of Rawlins Records indicate that Fort Steele’s Army never once Horn Basin, the Wind River Basin and northwest- at a cost not exceeding $100,000.00 encountered a battle. The west side of the fort was ern Colorado. Construction of this territorial prison was begun “Officers Row,” and the east side contained the The museum contains artifacts telling the tales July 23, 1888 and was named The Wyoming men’s barracks, laundries, and a sawmill. Passing of the mining and ranching ventures in this area as State Penitentiary by the Act of Admission July through on the south side was the railroad. In well as the Thomas Edison expedition and an 10, 1890. It is situated on 65.31 acres of land 1886, the fort was abandoned. Eight years later, extensive photograph collection of early day scenes within the City of Rawlins, Carbon County. Great the property was purchased by the Cosgriff and people in Rawlins and the surrounding area. slabs of stone and rock, observed on the out- Brothers for one hundred dollars. Soon after con- Exhibits include the memorabilia of Dr. Lillian side structure, were wagoned from the Larson verting the buildings to stores and residences, fire Heath, Wyoming’s first woman physician, who Stone Quarry south of Rawlins. The first prisoner destroyed much of the town, and the remaining

Rawlins Jan Feb March April May June July Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec Annual Average Max. Temperature (F) 30.7 33.9 41.2 52.3 63.7 75.1 83.3 81.0 70.5 57.0 40.7 32.1 55.1 Average Min. Temperature (F) 12.5 14.9 20.3 27.7 36.5 44.7 51.4 50.0 40.9 31.2 20.3 13.9 30.4 Average Total Precipitation (in.) 0.50 0.53 0.68 1.05 1.33 0.91 0.76 0.75 0.80 0.82 0.58 0.49 9.21 Average Total SnowFall (in.) 7.9 7.5 7.8 7.1 1.6 0.2 0.0 0.0 1.2 3.4 7.7 7.5 51.9 Average Snow Depth (in.) 2 2 1 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 1 1 1 www.ultimatewyoming.com 279 buildings became the property of the Leo Sheep died September, 1868 when the Army kicked it retraced their route east laden with furs. Company. Today, many of the buildings are foun- off its reservation. On weekdays, three thousand These men left little evidence of their passing, dations or depressions in the ground. people lived in Benton. And during the weekends, but they explored the routes used by thou- five thousand people populated the town. Water sands of future settlers destined for locations T Fort Fred Steele was hauled from the Platte River, and it was sold west of Wyoming. State Historic Site for a dollar a barrel. Two popular institutions were Although suggestions to build a transconti- I-80 Exit 228. Follow signs. 320-3013 the North Star Saloon and the Desert Hotel. In nental railroad had been made in the 1840s, History addition, twenty-three saloons served beer, with no decision was reached until after the out- Fort Fred Steele was established on June 20, five dance halls contributing to this town’s lively break of the Civil War when Congress selected 1868 and occupied until August 7, 1886 by sol- environment. During its wild three-month exis- a central route through southern Wyoming. diers who were sent by the U.S. Government to tence, one hundred people were killed. The Union Pacific Railroad, chartered by guard the railroad against attack from Indians. T Carbon Timber Town Congress, built track westward from Nebraska The construction of the transcontinental Union through Wyoming to Utah. You will find Carbon Timber Town two miles Pacific Railroad across southern Wyoming in The military constructed a series of forts from the rest area adjacent to Interstate 80 along 1867-1869, in turn, brought the cattlemen and a highway bridge that turns into a gravel road along the Union Pacific route to protect con- sheepherders, loggers and tie hacks, miners and heading northward. Little is known about this struction crews against attack by hostile Indians. merchants who changed a wasteland into the company timber town’s past. Fort Fred Steele, named in honor of Civil War Wyoming Territory. hero Major General Frederick Steele, was estab-

All Wyoming Area Codes are 307 The town’s operation was comprised of ties Colonel Richard I Dodge, who selected this coming down the North Platte River shortly after lished in June, 1868 where the railroad crossed site on the west bank of the North Platte River, the establishment of Fort Steele in 1868. During a the North Platte River. Until 1886, when it was named the fort for Major General Frederick drive, the ties strung out for twenty miles. One decommissioned, the garrison at Fort Fred Steele, 20th U.S. Infantry, a Civil War hero. half million ties required dozens of men to refloat Steele performed a variety of policing activities Although the fort at first resembled a tent city, those that became stuck or grounded. The involving both Indians and civilians. Colonel Dodge’s military quartermaster quickly process of transferring the ties from the moun- The railroad also promoted mercantile built the fort according to Army specifications by tains to the railroad took two months. These development, and livestock, lumber and mining using local materials and labor. In fact, many of drives were conducted yearly up to 1931, with industries. After the departure of the military, the 300 troops here at the time received extra pay Saratoga serving as the halfway point. these industries continued and the town of Fort for their help with this effort. Key civilians who Steele survived. Completion of the transconti- were also employed at the post included a H Fort Fred Steele nental Lincoln Highway through Wyoming in sawmill engineer, blacksmith, saddler and wheel- Historical Overview 1922 contributed to a brief economic revival. wright. Like many other frontier outposts, the I-80 Exit 228 Fort Steele rest stop However, rerouting of the highway in 1939 and military relied, too, upon a licensed trader or sut- The south central portion of Wyoming has long the demise of the tie industry in 1940 ended ler to supply fresh produce and mercantile goods been a travel corridor for prehistoric and historic the town’s function as a commercial center. for its personnel and dependents. people. Native American tribes from the Great After the major Indian threat had passed, the Basin region to the west crossed this area to H Fort Fred Steele War Department deactivated the post and trans- hunt buffalo on the eastern plains. Interpretive Signs ferred its troops to other military facilities From 1810 until the decline of the Rocky Just over 1 mi N of I-80 Exit 228 throughout the United States. Only a guard was Mountain fur trade in the late 1830s, fur Bridge Tender’s House left to oversee this federal property. traders and trappers traversed this region on The bridge tender’s house was constructed by Industry their way west in quest of beaver pelts, then the Union Pacific Railroad to serve as an After the fort was abandoned, a sparse popu- lation of civilians remained at what would be For each cattle rustler he shot, he would charge known only as Fort Steele. Prospering briefly as a OM ORN T H the cattlemen $500 and, of course, receive Section 5 logging center, millions of felled trees were float- ed down the North Platte River from the The legendary , most famous of the their admiration. It was about this time that he Medicine Bow and Sierra Madre Mountains to West’s hired guns, and certainly Wyoming’s, was reported to have said that, “killing men is this small community where they were turned was born in Missouri on November 21, 1860. my specialty. I look at it as a business proposi- into railroad ties and fence posts. Later, a major Considered an incorrigible youth his father, tion, and I think I have a corner on the market.” sheep sheering plant was established to remove being of the old school persistently attempted His trademark was a large rock, which he the animals’ wool made thick and rich by the to beat this badness out of the boy. After one placed beneath the dead man’s head. harsh Wyoming winters. The railway that passed such beating, Tom ran away from home and In 1901 Horn was accused of the murder of through the community facilitated shipment of worked at various odd jobs as he roamed the a fourteen year old boy named Willie Nickell. those bales to the east where the raw goods were West. By the time he was 17, he was employed Horn said he had mistaken the boy for his processed and woven into material for fashion- by the Government as a U.S. Army scout. play- father who was trying to bring sheep into the able garments for men and women. ing a prominent role in ’s surrender in Wyoming cattle ranges. Horn’s demise came America’s First Transcontinental Highway 1886. Horn was the man who managed to when he was arrested after bragging about the In 1912 the mighty Lincoln Highway was negotiate the terms of surrender with the noto- killing to the deputy U.S. Marshall while drink- conceived as a transcontinental highway to paral- rious Apache Chief. ing. He was convicted by a jury in Cheyenne lel the original railroad that crossed this country. Tom Horn arrived in Wyoming during the and sentenced to hang. That dream became a reality in 1922 as the con- Range Wars of the 1890s. He hired on as a stock Horn escaped from the Cheyenne jail but crete ribbon was completed and linked the east detective with the Swan Land and Cattle was promptly recaptured. During his final days and west coast. A brief economic revival for Fort Company located about 50 miles northwest of in jail he spent his time weaving the rope that Steele followed that achievement. The rerouting Cheyenne, Wyoming to scare would-be ranchers would hang him in November of 1903 at the of the highway in 1939, plus the demise of the tie and farmers out of the Iron Mountain area. The age of 42. His death ended the era of the industry a year later was the village’s death knell. cattle ranchers didn’t take kindly to sheepmen or “Outlaw West” in Wyoming, putting an end to Excerpted from Wyoming State Parks and Historic homesteader’s who built homes in the middle of . road agents and rustlers. Sites brochure. grazing land. While in this employment, Horn Tom Horn is buried in the Old Pioneer T Benton was supposedly responsible for eliminating a Cemetery, which is part of the Columbia Benton lies three miles west of Fort Steele and number of cattle rustlers in the area. Some true Cemetery in Boulder, Colorado. A reprieve was known as the wildest town in Wyoming. and some perhaps tall tales on Tom’s part. came in 1993 when forensic experts and Nothing remains, except wild stories and millions Horn saw himself as a benefactor of socie- Amnesty International staged a retrial in which of broken bits of glass from thrown bottles. ty. Getting rid of cattle thieves was considered Horn was found not guilty—too late to actually Its proximity to the fort attracted several hun- to him on a par with killing a wolf or a coyote. do him any good. dred troops. Benton was born on July 1, 1868 and

280 Ultimate Wyoming Atlas and Travel Encyclopedia employee surveillance point. The bridge tender limited and usually occurred upon the retire- the main military complex. Ironically, it is one of could respond quickly to locomotive-caused ment or death of a superior. the few fort structures remaining. It replaced the fires and could remove flood debris which original magazine, a dugout constructed when I might damage the bridge and cause interrup- Fort Steele Schoolhouse the post was established in 1868. NCLUDING tions to railroad traffic. After the fort was decommissioned and the mil- The structure was built in 1881 from locally Restored by the Wyoming Recreation itary buildings were sold at auction, the resi- quarried stone and from materials fabricated at Commission in 1983, the one and one-half dents of the Fort Steele community converted the Headquarters in story, clapboard-sided structure was probably some of the old structures into homes and Omaha and shipped by rail to Fort Fred Steele. businesses or built anew on top of bare foun- C built before 1887. The replacement of steam by With sturdy walls on random-coursed ashlar ASPER diesel locomotives in the mid-1900’s eliminated dations. The schoolhouse was built in 1919 sandstone, the powder magazine remains over the foundation remains of the fort hospital. S the necessity for a bridge tender and the house essentially the same as it was in 1881, although OUTHCENTRAL was abandoned. The one-story, gable-roofed structure with clap- the tin roof has been replaced with shingles , R board siding served as a library, church, and and internal shelving has been removed. IVERTON Fort Fred Steele After 1886 community meeting house as well as an educa- Few artillery pieces and only small quanti- Officially abandoned in 1886, the fort came tion center for the town. ties of ammunition were kept at the post. under the jurisdiction of the Department of the Work and leisure time at Fort Steele did not Fort Fred Steele generally had only a single Interior in 1887. In 1892 and 1893 most of the change drastically with the closing of the fort. , L

mountain howitzer, and sometimes a Gatling A buildings were sold at public auction. In 1897 The trains continued to stop daily supplying the AND ANDER gun on hand. Other explosive and com- REA the land, opened to homesteading, was patent- community with fresh produce and other nec- bustible materials such as powder, fuses and ed by the Union Pacific Railroad. essary goods while carrying local timber and signaling fireworks probably also were stored Primary industries in the town of Fort Steele wool to points beyond. The North Platte River in this building. after the turn of the century were sheep ranch- still provided the town folk with a pleasant loca- ing and tie processing. The Lincoln Highway, the tion for their leisure activities. Major General Frederick Steele 1818-1868 R nation’s first transcontinental highway, passed General Steele commanded a division of the AWLINS Enlisted Men’s Barracks through the town and boosted the economy Union Army at Vicksburg. Later he commanded Two stone foundations and chimneys remain of between 1920 and 1939. When the highway all Union forces on the line of the Arkansas, was moved in 1939 most commercial activity the five enlisted men’s barracks once at Fort Fred Steele. The walls were constructed of logs exercising President Lincoln’s policy of concilia- ended. The number of residents declined rapid- tion and reconstruction. At the end of the war ly and the town became practically deserted. and boards and battens while a shingled roof he served in Texas, on the Mexican border. He In 1973 the Wyoming Stage Legislature cre- protected pine floor boards. Tar paper covered then was sent to Oregon and Washington as ated the Fort Fred Steele State Historic Site. interior walls. Kitchens doubled as mess and commander of the Department of the Columbia. Although the number of structures has declined washrooms, and iron bedsteads took up most Shortly following his death, Fort Fred Steele dramatically over the years what remains stand- of the floor space. was named in his honor, ing is mute testimony to the flourishing and Enlisted life in the frontier army could only subsequent passing of several frontiers. be characterized as boring, with inadequate Post Trader Residence salaries and a monotonous diet. Most soldiers This site is the remains of the Post Trader’s resi- Brownsville and Benton spent their days drilling and digging ditches. dence. The photograph taken of the building During construction of the Union Pacific Railroad Social activities for enlisted men were limited later in the army’s occupation of the fort attests land speculators and a large contingent of Section 5 and alcohol consumption prompted periodic to the prosperity enjoyed by the Post Trader. undesirables kept pace with or moved ahead of orders from the commanding officer restricting the construction crews and their military escorts. The Post Trader was appointed by the saloon activities. Secretary of War, and the position was highly Townsite speculators tried to anticipate depot In 1892 the barracks buildings, sold at auc- locations, purchasing land, selling lots and con- prized because of its profit possibilities. In 1868 tion with other fort structures, were purchased J. W. Hugus established dry goods, liquor, structing tent towns. by private citizens. Only the two central barracks Before the railroad reached the North Platte freighting and ferry operations, all welcomed by remained when the first transcontinental auto travelers and local residents including the fort’s crossing at Fort Fred Steele, speculators set up road, the Lincoln Highway, passed through the the town of Brownsville on the river’s east soldiers. Alcohol use apparently caused the Post town of Fort Steele in the 1920s. The road Commander concern as he frequently ordered bank. Commanding Officer, Major Richard I. bridged the Platte River directly north of the Dodge, issued an order July 2, 1868 proclaim- Hugus to limit sales to soldiers. town and passed close by the old army bar- Hugus, one of the area’s leading merchan- ing all lands within a three mile radius of Fort racks, one of which was given a new function Fred Steele to be part of the military reserva- disers, continued as Post Trader until 1884 as a gasoline station. when he sold his business to Fenimore tion and prohibiting civilian residence. Benton The last two barracks were destroyed by Chatterton, a long-time employee. Chatterton thus grew up on the west edge of the reserva- fires set by vandals on New Year’s Eve, 1976. tion. In a matter of days Brownsville’s popula- later held the office of Wyoming Secretary of tion resided in Benton. The tent town of Sheepherders’ Community State and served as Acting Governor from Benton lasted only a few months when its Sheep were introduced to Wyoming in the 1903 to 1905. 1850s near Fort Bridger, about 180 miles west of population moved west to Rawlins Springs. Carbon Timber Company Fort Steele. By 1880 the number had grown to Construction of the Union Pacific Railroad stimu- Officers’ Quarters over 350,000 head ranging primarily along the lated the growth of the timber industry in south- The collapsed sandstone building west of the route of the Union Pacific Railroad, The Cosgriff ern Wyoming. Two companies began supplying sign is all that remains of the once imposing Brothers owned one of the largest sheep ranch- ties to the railroad in 1868, but the firm of Coe eight room, one and one-half story ing operations in Wyoming at that time, and they and Carter was the leading supplier to the Fort Commanding Officer’s quarters. Residences for established herds in the Fort Steele area in 1881. Fred Steele collection yards until 1896. staff officers were four, wood-framed double After the fort was decommissioned they acquired Cut and shaped in the Medicine Bow quarters with a captain in one-half and two lieu- many of its buildings and in 1903 constructed Mountains to the south, ties were floated down- tenants in the other half. Compared to enlisted one of the largest sheep shearing plants in men’s barracks, the officers’ quarters were luxu- Wyoming. In 1905 over 800,000 pounds of rivcr during spring run-off and were gathered rious. Amenities included lath and plaster walls, wool was shipped to Boston, the single largest behind a boom here. Coe and Carter also sup- kitchens with cellars and large enclosed yards. shipment of wool ever sent out of Wyoming. plied timbers for coal mines at Carbon, Hanna, Officers’ salaries greatly exceeded those of L. E. Vivion, owner of the Leo Sheep and Dana to the east, and lumber for buildings enlisted men. They could hire servants and sup- Company, purchased most of the Cosgriff land at Fort Fred Steele and the surrounding area. port a family, activities prohibited to the enlisted holdings including the land at Fort Fred Steele in The Carbon Timber Company, successor to Coe man. Social activities at Fort Fred Steele includ- 1915. The house, lean-to, and shed in this area and Carter, floated over 1.5 million timbers ed dinner parties, card games, theatrical presen- are the remains of a sheepherders’ community. down the North Platte in 1909. tations, dances and outdoor activities such as Directly across the North Platte River east of fishing, hunting, ice skating and sledding. Even Powder Magazine Fort Steele are the remains of the Carbon with these diversions, daily military life was The powder magazine housed the fort’s Timber Company tie processing facility, a pri- monotonous. Opportunities for promotion were munitions and therefore was located away from vately-owned site. www.ultimatewyoming.com 281 Cemetery wagon train was attacked by and Food, Lodging The post cemetery served as a graveyard for 26 Arapahoes. They captured two little girls—Mary soldiers, their dependents, and civilians during Fletcher, 13, and Lizzie Fletcher, 2, after killing army occupation of Fort Fred Steele (1868- Elk Mountain their mother and injuring the father and brothers. Pop. 192, Elev. 7,268 1886). Although some soldiers died during the Mary was found and bought back by a white Indian Wars of the 1860’s and 1870’s, most of Once a stage station and then a railroad station, trader a short time later and was returned her to the military deaths at the fort were the result of this town was named for the nearby mountain, her father in Salt Lake City for a fee and supplies. accidents and disease. Civilians and travelers part of the Medicine Bow elk feeding range. Lizzie was not found until over 30 years later, liv- who expired in the vicinity of Fort Steele also ing on the Wind River Reservation. Mary had set- were interred in the cemetery. H Wagonhound Tipi Rings tled in Iowa and read about Lizzie in a I-80 Exit 267 at rest area Although the Fort Steele hospital provided newspaper. She returned to Wyoming, identifying medical services to military personnel and their The stone circles or “Tipi Rings” at this site mark her sister. Lizzie was married and living with her dependents, the lack of refined medical tech- the location of a prehistoric Native American Arapaho husband, John Brokenhorn. She spoke niques often resulted in death from infection campsite. The stones were probably used to no English and enjoyied a high status in the com- and diseases like pneumonia and tuberculosis. anchor the skins of conical tents, known by the munity, chosing to stay on the reservation rather The infant mortality rate was particularly high Sioux word “Tipi”. The stones were placed than reunite with her sister. and 25% of the graves in the cemetery were around the base of the tipi to hold down the occupied by children. skins as well as to provide additional support to McFadden

All Wyoming Area Codes are 307 The 100’ X 140’ cemetery was enclosed by the tipi in high winds. After the introduction of Originally a railroad station, McFadden was a picket fence and contained eighty irregularly the metal ax, wooden pegs gradually replaced once named Ohio City, but was renamed for an spaced graves. Each grave was numbered, the the stones for holding down the skins. oil company official when oil was discovered number appearing on a painted wooden peg at The tipi was used for shelter and sleeping. nearby in 1917. the foot of the plot. Gravesite markings included Most daily activities occurred outside the struc- wood headboards for the military but they ture. A hearth in the center of the tipi was used T Turbine Windmills proved impractical as inscriptions soon became for heat and cooking in poor weather. If you like wind, this is the place to be. One of the obliterated by weathering. Although few persons In prehorse times, tipis averaged approxi- windiest places in the nation is now the home of of historical fame were buried in the Fort Fred mately 12 feet in diameter, and poles used in one of the biggest wind farms. From miles away Steele cemetery, an exception was Jefferson J. their construction were up to 15 feet long. Eight you can see the 69 towering white windmills Standifer, who participated in many western to 12 buffalo hides were needed for the con- which crank out 41,000 kilowatt-hours of electric- gold rushes including the brief 1867 boom at struction of a tipi. The hides of buffalo killed ity per day, powering 20,000 homes. Travelers on South Pass City, Wyoming. during the summer were preferred because I-80 between Rawlins and Laramie will see one of Not all those who perished at Fort Steele they were thinner and lighter in weight. A the largest wind farms in the West outside of were buried in the post cemetery. Rather than smudge fire was built inside a new tipi, and the California. Energy is created for Utah, Oregon, surrender their loved ones to an eternity on this smoke was allowed to permeated the leather. Washington, and Wyoming. A project that was wind-swept riverbank, some chose to ship the This process waterproofed the leather and started in the 1990s, there are now 119 wind tur- deceased by rail to other final resting places. aided in its preservation. bines capable of generating 91.4 megawatts of Military families occasionally requested official It has been estimated that there are over 1 electricity. These generators have the capacity to assistance with the shipments. Officers reported million tipi rings in the . supply electricity to 23,764 homes for an entire civilian requests for coffins and embalming As such, they are one of the most common year. The largest rotors on these wind generators materials, complaining that to supply them was archaeological features to be found in this part have a diameter of 57 feet. Imagine the wingspan not a military responsibility. of the country. The features at this rest area of a Boeing 747 and you’ll have an idea. The When the post was decommissioned in have been preserved by the Wyoming Highway beauty of wind power is that there are no emis- 1886, the Secretary of the Interior declared the Department and the Office of the Wyoming sions and no waste to be managed. cemetery exempt from sale or transfer to public State Archaeologist for your benefit. Please feel because of the military burials. In 1892 the free to inspect the tipi rings up close, but do Food, Lodging Section 5 28 graves of the soldiers, their dependents and not disturb the rocks. some civilians were moved to Fort McPherson Centennial National Cemetery near Maxwell, Nebraska. 27 Food Pop. 50, Elev. 8,076 Civilians continued to use the cemetery after Named for the centennial of the Declaration of the departure of the military and the last docu- Arlington - Independence, a gold mine was discovered here mented burial took place in the 1920’s. The The Rock Creek Station, also known as Arlington in 1876 by Col. Stephen W. Downey, pioneer and land occupied by the cemetery is still owned by or Rock Dale, was built in 1860, along the statesman. The gold ran out quickly, and only a the United States government. Overland Route. As a stage station known as a few tough customers remained behind. Logging home station, Rock Creek became a commercial and ranching became the little town’s livelihood, as well as “entertainment” center for immigrants. and in time, Centennial became a stopover for Rock Creek thrived as a supply and social center travelers on their way to the Snowy Range. The Wyoming Tidbits for growing agricultural and timber interests in village provides a stunning view down into the the surrounding area. To serve the many needs of Centennial Valley, and up the slopes of the tree- Wyoming author Owen Wister’s classic novel the travelers, Joe Bush, owner of the stage station covered mountains, an especially lovely sight in The Virginian is the source for the famous operated a dancehall-saloon, general store, and autumn when the aspens turn gold. line, “When you call me that, smile...” blacksmith shop from one building. He also built a toll bridge. The block building is one of the original buildings still standing on Main Street. Map not to scale One of the oldest log cabins in Wyoming still 25 stands in Arlington. 4th St A post office was established in 1892 and 3rd St

T Walcott Rock Creek or Rockdale was renamed Arlington. Spruce Ave Spruce 2nd St Ave Beech

Walcott known as “new highway Walcott” is Arlington continued to operate as a commercial- Oak Ave Oak

seven miles east of the Fort Steele turnoff. The Ave Pine agricultural center into the 20th century. As one 1st St

“railroad Walcott” is one mile north. In the rail- Ave Cedar

of the earliest settlements in Carbon County, Rock Ave Maple

road Walcott, you will find the old “Glub Creek contributed in a commercial and social Ave Elm Saloon” with its false front. Across the tracks are sense to the development of south central a number of old cabins that are now used by the Wyoming. Arlington has been listed on the Vivian Sheep Company. Once a major shipping National Register of Historic Places since 1983. CENTENNIAL hub for the Union Pacific, especially during the Today Arlington is mostly ranch country and mail copper boom, Walcott was named for a respect- comes to the post office in Rock River. ed train conductor. The Rock Creek Station is near where a Rd Creek Walnut

282 Ultimate Wyoming Atlas and Travel Encyclopedia Albany Like the county of the same name, Albany was

named for the capitol city of New York by leg- I islator Charles Bradley, who came from that NCLUDING area. Once a railroad stop, Albany is now the central point in a scenic valley of cabins and small ranches. C

Fox Park ASPER Once a gathering place for wild foxes, railroad S officials chose this site as a stop due to its prox- OUTHCENTRAL imity to good lumber for ties. In 1906, a post , R office was established. Modern lumber companies IVERTON continue to log in nearby Medicine Bow National Forest, although environmental concerns have

changed the way the timber is harvested. , L A NE AND ANDER Mountain Home REA Nestled at the foot of the Medicine , this one-time stage station is now a traveler’s playground.

T Nici Self Museum R

2740 State wy 130 in Centennial. 742-7158 AWLINS Partially housed in a 1907 Hahn’s Peak and Pacific Railroad depot, the museum’s exhibits Grand Encampment Museum. depict the general history of the Centennial Valley. a range of topics are covered, including mining, ranching, lumbering, and railroading. A In 1908, the company, which had produced 1944 Union Pacific caboose and many large Riverside Pop. 59, Elev. 7,137 two million dollars in copper ore, was indicted pieces of farming, ranching, and mining equip- for over-capitalization and fraudulent stock sales. ment are at the site. The museum is open from Situated on the Encampment River, this was once part of the site of rendezvous for mountain men The mines closed, and Rudefeha, Dillon, mid-June through Labor Day Friday through Copperton, Rambler, Battle and Elwood became Monday from 1 p.m. to 4 p.m. and Native Americans. Although Riverside was never a mining camp, it came into being in 1851 ghost towns. Encampment and Riverside survived T Sugarloaf Recreation Area as the result of serving as the gateway to the min- but the “Grand” was quietly dropped. The museum captures some of this history Just east of the Snowy Range Pass in the Medicine ing district and as a neighbor to the prominent through its collection. On the complex is the Bow-Routt National Forest is this magnificant town, Encampment. Originally named after a man Section 5 “Doc” Culleton Building. Inside you’ll see a variety recreation area. Sharp spires carved from glaciers called Dogget who started a store and station, the of displays including a folding oak bathtub and a rise above small lakes and islands. Trails lead to town eventually came to be known as Riverside. square grand piano. Also at the complex is the various lakes and fragrant and colorful alpine Soon, cabins were built, and sixty buildings George Kuntzman Building, the Wolfard School meadows. A viewing platform provides panoram- followed. The most noted building being a forty- House, a U.S. Forest Service guard station, a ic vistas of Libby Flats, Medicine , and room hotel that burned and was rebuilt. The cop- Tiehack cabin, and the Lake Creek Stage Station. surrounding valleys. per ran out and the town became a shell of its former glory. Recent growth in tourism has One of the more unusual exhibits is the two- breathed new life into the one-time ghost town. story outhouse. Though most dwellings in the 29 Food, Lodging mining communities in the hills above T Grand Encampment Museum Encampment in the early days were settled on Encampment At Encampment. 327-5308 solid earth, many of the nearby Chic-Sale struc- Pop. 443, Elev. 7,323 An abundance of fine pelts drew the first white tures were designed in higher fashion, to over- Encampment was named, like the nearby river, men into this valley, long held sacred by the come the problem of deep, drifting snows. Some for being the site of Indian camps during hunt- Indians. The trappers’ day soon passed, and was of these outhouses were erected high atop a base ing season. In the early 1800s, trappers and succeeded by others, equally brief. Tie cutters, of cribbed up logs; others were slender, silo-like traders joined the Native Americans. The ren- cattle barons, and hunting expeditions came and creations with doors opening high up on their dezvous site was officially called the Grand went. Thomas Edison accompanied one of these fronts; a few were even impressive with newly Encampment. The town developed in 1898 expeditions, and at Battle Lake he conceived the shingled exteriors. Most were approached by when copper was discovered and mined here. A idea for the incandescent light. Homesteaders and wooden steps leading up five or six feet to railed sixteen-mile tramway, the longest in the world, ranchers, the first permanent residents, began to platforms in front of the doors; others were was built to convey the ore to the smelter. The arrive in the 1870s. reached by railed ramps from building to out- mine played out ten years later, and the commu- The year of 1897 produced an electrifying house. A two-story outhouse is part of the display nity turned to ranching and logging. Now locals change. A rich copper strike in the Sierra Madres at the Grand Encampment Museum complex. invite tourism, as the scenic mountains above precipitated the new city of Grand Encampment The museum is open daily from Memorial draw those who crave the quiet life. Many of the and several satellite settlements. A 16-mile aerial Day weekend through September and on week- early buildings have been restored, and provide a tramway—the longest in the world—supplied the ends through October. Call for hours. Admission glimpse of the old mining days. Judge Charles E. smelter. Power was provided by water through a is free. Brochures for a local walking tour can also Winter, author of the lyrics for the state song, 4’ wooden pipeline. The S & E Railroad was con- be obtained here. “Wyoming,” was from Encampment. structed, but its completion came a little late. Excerpted from museum brochure.

Centennial Jan Feb March April May June July Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec Annual Average Max. Temperature (F) 32.6 34.9 39.6 49.3 59.4 70.0 76.9 75.2 67.4 56.4 41.3 34.0 53.1 Average Min. Temperature (F) 12.3 13.9 16.9 24.3 32.7 40.5 46.8 45.1 37.6 28.9 19.1 13.9 27.7 Average Total Precipitation (in.) 1.10 0.87 1.06 1.32 1.65 1.38 1.53 1.22 1.20 0.79 0.99 1.08 14.20 Average Total SnowFall (in.) 17.8 14.4 18.2 13.8 6.1 0.7 0.0 0.0 1.8 5.4 14.1 19.3 111.5 Average Snow Depth (in.) 2 2 1 1 0 0 0 0 0 0 1 2 1 www.ultimatewyoming.com 283 T Dillon Named for saloon owner Malachi Dillon, this SARATOGA town was founded after neighboring company town Rudefeha banned saloons. Soon afterwards, Dillon became the largest town in the Sierra

N 1st St Madres. Today, several buildings still stand, nes- tled among the trees. By 1907 Dillon was a ghost Chatterton Dr N 3rd St town along with Rudefeha.

ChattertonStamp St Dr Cemetery Rd

Hugus Ave East River St

W Bridge St T Rudefeha W Farm St 2 8th St 7th St 6th St Rochester St St nd E side of Bridger Peak State St summit NW of Encampment Main St 9th St An abandoned mine shaft, tramway towers and W Bridge St St 1st several support buildings remain in this old min-

10th St Spring St 11th St Jack Creek Rd 13th St ing company town in which the Ferris-Haggerty W Elm St Ryan Park Rd mine was located. When company officials S River St N Spring Creek Rd banned saloons, bar owner Malachi Dillon 5th St 4th St 3rd St Maple Ave moved a short distance away and built a spot for All Wyoming Area Codes are 307 miners to wet their whistles. Rudefeha became a ghost town by 1907. Willow Ave Mountain View T Indian Bathtubs Greenwood 1 mi W of Riverside on State Hwy 230 Locust Ave These intriguing rock basins collect rainwater and

Myrtle Ave Nort melting snow, and Native Americans came here to h Platte R Pine Ave clean off after hunting. Take Blackhall Road about Aspen Ave one mile to the trailhead, which takes you about iver another mile on foot to the bathtubs.

Map not to scale T Robert A. Peck Art Center, Central Wyoming College 2660 Peck Ave in Riverton. 855-2202 The Robert A. Peck Arts Center presents touring performances, theater and music productions, and monthly art exhibits. Featured artists includ- T Old Encampment destroyed. Although the railway came in 1908, ed are local, regional, and national recognized. Situated on the stream known as Encampment the smelter had closed completely. Legal troubles Open Monday through Friday, 8 a.m. to 10 p.m. River nine miles above its junction with the soon followed as the company was accused of and Saturday and Sunday, from 12 p.m. to 6 p.m. North Platte lies what used to be Encampment. huge fraudulent stock sales and eventually Closed holidays. Numerous minerals, including gold and copper endured the wrath of the court. were found here in 1879. Unlike the other towns, The famous tram was removed in 1910, and H Thomas A. Edison On State Hwy 70 between Encampment and no rush was forthcoming since the amounts dis- the railroad that once served the cattle shippers Savery overlooking Battle Lake covered were minute. Several families built log was soon replaced by trucks. The town died in homes and settled here, and eventually a tiny Camped near this spot in 1878, while on a fish-

Section 5 June of 1962. post office was built. A resident named Ed ing trip. It was here that his attention was direct- Haggerty discovered a copper mine in 1897, and T Rambler ed to the fiber from his bamboo fishing pole from this discovery, the town slowly grew. Rambler is nestled near a lake on the western which he tested as a suitable filament for his A stage service was started from Saratoga to slope of the Continental Divide. Today, only three incandescent electric lamp. the north over primitive, muddy roads. During its buildings still stand as reminders of this copper Born February 11, 1847—Died October 18, height, 5,000 people called Encampment home; it boom town. Up until January 1, 1904, half a mil- 1931 Age 84. was one of the wildest and most boisterous camps lion pounds of copper was extracted in Rambler. H Encampment, Wyoming in the State of Wyoming. At various points, four All of the ore was hauled by mules over the newspapers sprang up, with the Grand Divide and down to Encampment smelter. (Grand Encampment) Encampment Herald surviving the longest of its Elevation 7,323 Feet following rivals: the Encampment Echo, T Battle At N end of town at Encampment Encampment Record, and the Valley Roundup. High on the Continental Divide, approximately Gateway to the sites of ghost towns of the The North American Copper Co. was created 10 miles west of Encampment, this ghost town Copper Country. Once a favorite hunting here. In 1898, the company acquired the largest was named for an 1841 confrontation between ground of Prehistoric man, later “Camp le mine, Rudefeha, for a half-million and then sold whites and Indians. The town was first a home to Grand” became a noted rendezvous of Indians thousands of dollars worth of stock. The compa- loggers and miners. Ore mined in the town was and trappers. In 1897 the town site was laid ny built a twenty mile tramway—the longest in shipped to Encampment to be smelted. out by Willis George Emerson and associates; the world at that time—to carry ore from the in 1897 Ed Haggarty made his big strike on mine to the reduction plant. The tram could T Copperton the Continental Divide. In 1902, during the carry 98 tons daily. Miners hoping to find copper in this area named mining boom, the longest aerial tramway in The beginning of Encampment’s demise start- the town. When the copper ore vein played out in the world was built to convey ore 16 miles ed in 1906 when the mill at the largest smelter the early 1900s, so did the town. Few remains are from the great Ferris-Haggarty mine to the burned. Two years later, the remainder was visible today of this once-thriving mining town. smelter at Encampment. In 1908 the industry

Saratoga Jan Feb March April May June July Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec Annual Average Max. Temperature (F) 33.2 36.8 43.5 54.6 65.6 76.0 83.1 80.9 72.1 59.6 43.7 35.4 57.0 Average Min. Temperature (F) 10.4 13.2 19.3 27.1 35.5 43.4 49.3 47.1 38.5 28.8 19.0 12.1 28.6 Average Total Precipitation (in.) 0.47 0.44 0.73 0.94 1.39 0.95 0.94 0.92 0.87 0.98 0.56 0.44 9.61 Average Total SnowFall (in.) 8.9 7.7 9.5 5.6 1.7 0.1 0.0 0.0 1.1 3.4 8.1 8.2 54.3 Average Snow Depth (in.) 3 2 1 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 1 2 1

284 Ultimate Wyoming Atlas and Travel Encyclopedia collapsed. Encampment is now a beef, timber, hunting, fishing and resort center. I

H Battle Country NCLUDING State Hwy 70 between Encampment and Savery at Battle Lake Overlook The year is 1841. This country was teaming with beaver and other fur-bearing animals, and C

it was jealously guarded by Indians. Because ASPER the lure of beaver was so great, a group of S

American Fur Company trappers invaded these OUTHCENTRAL mountains determined to trap the streams. , R

On August 20, , with thirty-two IVERTON trappers under his command, had a desperate battle with an overwhelming force of Cheyenne and Sioux Indians. On that day, ten men were sent out from camp to drive buffalo. Those , L A NE AND ANDER remaining in camp would head off the bison REA after the ten started them running in their direction. By accident, the ten men ran onto a large body of Indians, and were attacked with great fury. One trapper was wounded badly in

the fight and he turned his horse in the direc- R tion of camp, which he reached safely. Fraeb AWLINS ordered twenty of his men to mount, and he led them to the rescue of the nine who were desperately fighting the unequal conflict. The arrival of the reinforcements decided the battle and the Indians retreated. Saratoga The Indians’ resentment of their defeat was immediate. Retreating northeast, they fired the forest, thus serving notice that they Springs, was once neutral ground for the Indian town of Saratoga, and 35 miles southeast of would make the country a wasteland rather tribes inhabiting the Platte Valley before the arrival Rawlins. The Hatchery was established in 1914 than let the white men take it. The immediate of white settlers. In 1884, Fenimore C. Chatterton and has primarily served as an egg producing area was denuded. changed the name to Saratoga, a name derived facility for most of its years of operation. From this trapper-Indian conflict, Battle from an Iroquois Indian word Sarachtogue, which The current mission of the Hatchery is to pro- Creek, Battle Lake, the town of Battle and Battle translates to “place of miraculous water in the vide four million Lewis Lake lake trout eggs to the Great Lakes restoration effort, and to provide Mountain received their name. rock” Chatterton borrowed the name from Section 5 The battle occurred where the creek in Saratoga Springs, NY, a town he had visited in his 3.5 million Plymouth Rock brown trout eggs to front of you joins the Little , about youth. The town was later incorporated in 1890. other Federal, state and tribal programs. The eight miles south. The museum’s newest section is a natural his- Hatchery maintains the back-up broodstock for tory room featuring a world-class specimen col- the McConaughy . We are also 30 Food, Lodging lection and minerals of local historical importance involved in rearing and breeding the endangered as well as interpretive displays on the geologic Wyoming toad for reintroduction into the wild. Saratoga history of the Valley. They are open year round, seven days a week, Pop. 1,726, Elev. 6,786 Other exhibits at the museum include a from 8:00 a.m. until 4:00 p.m. and provide guid- caboose donated in 1982 by the Union Pacific ed group tours upon advanced request. Fish Local Native Americans called the hot springs Railroad, a sheep wagon, tie hack tools, a geology spawning activities can be observed from the end here the “place of magic water” and often came exhibit, and the Katharine Bakeless Nason of September through October. here to find relief from illness. The first home- steader, William H. Cadwell, set up a bathhouse Archaeology room. Excerpted from museum brochure. T Saratoga Petroglyphs in the area, and travelers came from near and far N of Saratoga along the North Platte River to soak in the springs. Fennimore Chatterton, T Saratoga Hot Springs Cliffs above the river bear reminders of the emi- post trader at Fort Steele, hoped to turn this into Hobo Pool grants, who carved their names on the rock. a resort town, and thus named it for the On State Hwy 130 in Saratoga renowned Saratoga Hot Springs in New York State. The town was established in 1878, but did A soaking pool bordered with a wall of moss rock 31 Food, Lodging not prosper until the railroad came in 1907. The greets swimmers. On the bank of the North Platte copper boom also created growth, until the mines River, the pool is open all year, with water tem- Elmo ran out. Today, Saratoga is largely an agricultural peratures hovering around 105 degrees. Free to Founded by a group of Finnish homesteaders, community, and also mills lumber from the near- the public. Elmo was named for one of their number who by mountains. With the only “blue ribbon” trout was killed in an Indian raid. stream in this part of the state, Saratoga is gaining T Saratoga National increasing attention as a major tourist center. Fish Hatchery Hanna 4 mi NE of Saratoga and 35 mi SE of Rawlins Pop. 873, Elev. 6,777 T Saratoga Museum The Saratoga National Fish Hatchery is located in Mark A. Hanna, for whom this town was named, 104 Constitution Ave in Saratoga. 326-5511 Southern Wyoming, four miles northeast of the was a politician and financier who once sat on The Saratoga Museum, opened in 1980, is housed the board of directors for the Union Pacific in the town’s original c1915 Union Pacific Railroad Railroad. This name was not given to the town Depot. The museum provides an opportunity for until 1886, and by that time, the Hanna town its visitors to explore the history of the Platte Wyoming Tidbits site had already existed as a stage station and a coal mining camp since much earlier in the cen- Valley. The museum exhibits tell the story of early Due to the winter storms that sweep across man in the Americas and Saratoga’s pioneer ranch- southern Wyoming, residents dubbed a por- tury. In fact, the first coal town established in ers, merchants, tradesmen, loggers, clergy, den- tion of I-80 near Rawlins the Sno Chi Minh Wyoming, in 1868, (Carbon) is now a ghost tists, physicians, educators and the women Trail. Complete whiteout conditions are not town a few miles to the east. A graveyard and a working beside them in the settlement of the uncommon in the area. few ruins are all that remain. Valley. Saratoga, Wyoming, originally called Warm Hanna is still primarily a coal town, being situ- www.ultimatewyoming.com 285 ated between two of the states biggest working coal H Owen Wister fields: the Medicine Bow strip mine to the west, “When you say that, smile” MEDICINE and the huge Cyprus Shoshone mine to the north. In Medicine Bow east of the train depot BOW Medicine Bow Owen Wister whose writings acquainted the Cherry Ln Cottonwood St Pop. 274, Elev. 6,353 Cottonwood St

nation with pioneer Wyoming ranch life, made Oregon St Spruce St Medicine Bow’s birth is the result of the Central Medicine Bow the beginning of his most popu- Oak St Wyoming St Colorado St Maple St Pine St Pacific and Union Pacific Railroads tracks being Sage St

lar novel, “The Virginian”. Maine Ave Birch St laid in the bend of the Medicine River. A rail- St h St Montana Ct Utah St road station was built so that water could be Editor’s note: The line, “When you call me that, New Hampshire Blvd Beec smile!” is one of the most recognized lines 287 30 pumped from the river and a tank supply kept Medici from Western literature. It occured in Wister’s for the engines. ne Eventually, two saloons sprung up, and a gen- novel during a saloon scene in Medicine Bow. Bow Mc

eral store owned by J.L. Klinkenbeard. Medicine F Map not to scale adden Bow as incorporated in 1909; its first mayor was 32 No services August Grimm. In 1913, one of the grandest hotels in the state, The Hotel Virginian, was built, H Interconnected to all Life whose walls were decorated by cowboy artist At rest area T Hell’s Half Acre

All Wyoming Area Codes are 307 C.M. Russell. In a time before time, only the natural forces of A marvel of nature, this collection of intricately On November 8, 1919, a train stopped at the wind, water, weather and fire affected plant and eroded rock formations in the midst of the Medicine Bow station was held up by an escaped animal life in Wyoming. In later times, Native prairie actually covers 320 acres. The colorful convict, William Carlisle. Carlisle escaped, but Americans hunted, camped and lived in this canyon walls of this convoluted geological won- was eventually apprehended in the Laramie basin. Since that time, the natural wildness of derland served as a backdrop for the movie Mountains and was returned to prison. the land has changed. Yet the changes seen Starship Troopers in 1996. Captain Bonneville One individual who made the residents of here over the past 200 years are not nearly as named the place the Devil’s Kitchen when coal Medicine Bow proud was Owen Wister, author of evident as those that have taken place else- deposits here caught fire in the 1800s and The Virginian. In gathering information for his where. Few places in the world still offer the burned for years, creating a sulfurous, smoky popular book, Wister rode the land of Two Bar diversity of native plant and animal species as atmosphere within the red-walled maze. Ranch to capture the feel of the area. do the sagebrush basins of Wyoming. Native Americans used to come to the Many things that were here then are still H Hell’s Half Acre Medicine for the ash wood that grew here now. Sagebrush is still here, and sage spar- 42 mi W of Casper at Hell’s Half Acre turnout on U.S. Hwy 20/26 on its banks, which was especially good for rows still nest in its branches. Sage grouse still making bows. The Indian conception of the nest in tall prairie grasses near sagebrush plants, This unique setting of natural beauty covers English word “medicine” had multiple meanings, and pronghorn antelope still feed on tender approximately 320 acres. Viewed from a point which included healing, good luck, and quality. sagebrush shoots. Over 250 species of wildlife of maximum depth, its walls and pinnacles Thus, a “medicine bow” was one that would still freely range across the sage-covered plains. show soft and varied hues comparable to the assure good hunting. Despite their lasting wildness, the basins Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone. and of Wyoming have not totally Investigation has confirmed that in former escaped change. The bison, wolf and grizzly days the Indains drove great herds of buffalo bear are gone forever, never to return. The into this depression for slaughter. Flint arrow- black-footed ferret, which once stalked heads and buffalo bones have been found through vast prairie dog towns in search of here. A detachment of Captain B.L.E. Boneville’s food, was nearly wiped out but may return to party visited this site in July 1833. This area has once again hunt the basin. been dedicated to Natrona County by the

Section 5 In fulfilling our present and future needs, we Federal Government. must not forget about the needs of the sage- brush, the little sage sparrow, the sage grouse No services and the pronghorn antelope. We are all inter- 34 connected to the land and water—we have to Arminto remember that their destiny is ours. T Medicine Bow Museum The post office here was named for Manuel 405 Lincoln Hwy in Medicine Bow. 739-2383 Armenta, who owned the nearby Jack Pot 33 Food, Lodging Ranch. Union Pacific Railroad officials changed Located in an old railroad depot built in 1913, the spelling. Armenta was accused of being a the museum is home to Old West and local histo- Natrona horse thief, but also had a reputation for help- Elev. 5,610 ry artifacts including a collection of cowboy ing those in need, a sort of Western Robin chaps and branding irons. Natrona received it’s name from the natural Hood. The second incorporated town in T deposits of trona or carbonate of soda also known Natrona County, Arminto once promised to 502 Hanna Basin in Hanna. 325-9424 as soda ash. Trona is used to manufacture glass rival Casper economically. containers, fiber-glass, specialty glass, detergents, The Hanna Basin Museum is located in the Old food additives, and photography, and pH control Ervay Community Hall on Front Street. The exhibits of water. Trona is one of the most widely used Once a post office, this town was named for cover the general history of the Hanna area. and important commodities in the United States. founder Jake E. Ervay in 1882. There are a variety of exhibits including photos, documents, and artifacts on the coal camps, rail- Powder River Waltman road, homesteading, and ranching. Hours are 1 Pop. 50, Elev. 5,714 Once called Keg Springs, this town was named p.m. to 5 p.m. Admission is free but donations Named for the famous river, Powder River is in for Waltman Walters, who was the son of a are accepted. the heart of sheep country. Northwestern Railroad official.

Medicine Bow Jan Feb March April May June July Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec Annual Average Max. Temperature (F) 31.9 35.6 42.7 54.9 65.2 76.2 83.3 81.2 72.1 59.6 42.2 33.8 56.6 Average Min. Temperature (F) 11.3 13.4 18.3 26.0 34.5 42.3 47.4 45.3 36.2 27.1 18.5 12.7 27.8 Average Total Precipitation (in.) 0.45 0.50 0.70 1.12 1.61 1.23 1.17 0.84 0.94 0.81 0.53 0.42 10.32 Average Total SnowFall (in.) 6.5 6.0 6.3 5.8 1.3 0.1 0.0 0.0 1.5 2.6 5.4 4.9 40.4 Average Snow Depth (in.) 1 1 1 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 1 1 0

286 Ultimate Wyoming Atlas and Travel Encyclopedia Cary Dr 20

13th St

12th St I NCLUDING Terry Ln 11th St Cedar St Cherry St Oak St California St 10th St Pine St 9th St SHOSHONI 8th St Idaho St 7th St 7th St C 6th St ASPER 5th St

Bonneville Rd

4th St S B St A St Maple St Pine St Oak St OUTHCENTRAL Wyoming St King St 3rd St Main St Oregon St 20 Dakota St Minnesota St 20 26 , R 26 Elm St 1st St IVERTON Map not to scale

H Bridger Road-Waltman , L A NE AND ANDER

Crossing REA At Waltman Rest Area on U.S. Hwy 20/26 Here the present-day highway crosses what remains of an all but forgotten road. That road led to the remote gold fields of western

Montana, booming since 1862. R The Government, in 1859, ordered Captain AWLINS W.F. Raynolds, Topographic Engineers, U.S. Army, to reconnoiter Rocky Mountain topogra- Hell’s Half Acre phy and potential routes leading to areas of indicated mineralization. Old Jim Bridger, noted explorer since fur trade days, was Raynolds’ other unique life forms. The golden eagle, sage John B. Okie had a warehouse here where he guide. In 1864 official energy was still concen- thrasher, cottontail rabbit, horned lark, sage would stockpile wool until prices went up. trated on the Civil War and that most famous of lizard and western jumping mouse are just a few of the over 150 species of wildlife com- Moneta mountain-men laid out this road himself. Pop. 10, Elev. 5,428 The Oregon Trail was the trunk line of the monly found associated with sagebrush. western roads. Although Motnna’s mines lay far Wildlife agencies and state and federal land Once called Big Springs, this town got its name north of its course, further west—in Idaho a managers work with people using the land and from an Indian word meaning “running water.” branch-road turned off to those diggings. But its many resources to maintain these native that right-angle turn added some two hundred habitats and free-ranging wildlife populations— 36 Food, Lodging time-consuming, exhausting miles to the short- so you and future generations can always enjoy Section 5 est feasible roadway. During 1863, John “Mama Sage” and her wildlife. Shoshoni Bozeman had pioneered a road, east of the Big While at first glance the sagebrush commu- Pop. 675, Elev. 4,820 Horn Mountains and up the Yellowstone Valley, nity takes on the appearance of “wasteland,” it Named for the tribe, this is one of several varia- cutting across the angle, saving two weeks travel is an integral part of that magic formula which tions on the spelling. The town became a stop on time. Still, by crossing Indian hunting grounds, makes Wyoming a wildlife paradise. the Northwestern Railroad in 1904, and the sur- his road increased the hazard of overland rounding land was opened for homesteading the freight and travel. 35 No services following year. This was one of the towns in the Bridger’s route—west of the Big Horns— area that needed help from federal troops to settle reduced danger from indian attacks while saving Lost Cabin the furor over land rights that accompanied home- ten days time. But the Bridger road was a com- Named for a fabled gold mine where prospectors steading claims. Fires in 1907 and 1908 destroyed promise. It never was as well known as either built a cabin. The cabin was never found after most of the original buildings. The drug store here of its alternatives. Later, it was important in the Indians scared them off. This little town grew up is famous in the region for its milkshakes. settlement of northwestern Wyoming. around the property of John B. Okie. Okie came to Wyoming as a penniless cowboy, then gradual- H Mama Sage ly got involved in the sheep industry, invested in At Waltman Rest Area a line of stores, and eventually became a million- It is not coincidence that Wyoming supports aire. He built an elaborate mansion, which the over two-thirds of the world’s population of Indians called “The Big Teepee”, that had elegant pronghorn antelope and sage grouse. The only chandeliers, marble fireplaces, Persian rugs, and vast expanses of sagebrush-grassland habitat extensive gardens tended by Japanese gardeners. left on the North American continent are found It even boasted an aviary. His home had electric in Wyoming, Nevada and Montana. Pronghorn lighting while everyone else in the area still used antrelope and sage grouse require these exten- kerosene lamps. The Okie mansion is privately sive, uninterrupted native habitats to roam freely owned today, but can be seen from the road. between summer and winter range.. Sagebrush provides the major food source for these Lysite species, especially in winter when snow covers A prospector named Jim Lysaght (pronounced most other vegetation. Lysite) gave his name to this town and the nearby Our state’s sagebrush habitat also supports Lysite Mountain. Indians killed him in 1876. Shoshoni jail.

Shoshoni Jan Feb March April May June July Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec Annual Average Max. Temperature (F) Insufficient Data Average Min. Temperature (F) Insufficient Data Average Total Precipitation (in.) 0.16 0.12 0.22 0.90 1.55 1.18 0.59 0.48 0.68 0.51 0.27 0.15 6.82 Average Total SnowFall (in.) 2.5 2.0 2.3 2.5 1.1 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.4 0.7 2.4 2.3 16.1 Average Snow Depth (in.) 2 1 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 1 0 www.ultimatewyoming.com 287 T Boysen State Park 37 Food, Lodging Located north of Shoshoni, Boysen State Park was named for the Asmus Boysen who built the Riverton ROUNDUP original dam on the Wind River in 1908. The Pop. 9,660, Elev. 4,956 massive reservoir and current dam built in 1951 Once a rendezvous site, Riverton was part of the The largest cowboy poetry event in the state is at the entrance to picturesque Wind River Wind River Reservation when it was first estab- Canyon. Part of the original dam can still be takes place in October in Riverton. Cowpokes lished. Originally named Wadsworth for the gather to tell tales and clever rhymes. seen adjacent to the tunnels in the Lower Wind Indian agent at Fort , Riverton was River Campground. platted in 1906. A scuffle over homesteader The area is popular with water skiiers and claims resulted in federal intervention shortly fishermen. Rainbow and brown trout, walleye, hides. The Heritage Center displays provide a thereafter. Over the first half of the twentieth close-tip look at these animals that have been so sauger, ling, catfish, bass, perch and crappie century, extensive irrigation projects and well abound. Facilities at the state park including vital in the settling of the American West. digging created a lush farmland. Dairy cattle In addition to its wildlife displays, the camp sites, restrooms, drinking water, picnic were also brought here, and continue to be a Heritage Center houses an extensive gift store areas, boat ramps, marinas, and grocery stores. mainstay of the economy. Wyoming’s biggest specializing in Native American art and jewelry. The first white men passed through this dairy farm is located here. Locally made beadwork and leather goods-trade- area in 1825. The CB&O Railroad wen through During the 1960s, huge deposits of uranium marks of the and Northern

All Wyoming Area Codes are 307 the canyon in 1911 and the state highway went were discovered in the nearby Gas Hills. This Arapaho tribes that inhabit the Wind River Indian through in 1925. Boysen became a state park boosted the economy, until nuclear power came Reservation-can be purchased at the store. The in 1956. under scrutiny in the 1970s. Central Wyoming Heritage Center also sponsors slide shows, lec- Community College opened here in 1968. H Merritt’s Pass Marker tures and Native American dancing demonstra- Now Riverton has a diversified economic tions throughout the year. The museum is open Wind River Indian Reservation. Permission base, and its attractive location near the Wind required to visit marker year round Monday through Saturday. River Mountains is inviting to tourists and new Reprinted from museum brochure. Merritt’s Pass, so named when Gen’l. Merritt, businesses alike. Commanding Fifth U. S. Cavalry, passed T St. Stephens Indian through these mountains in September of Heritage Center 1877 upon a scouting expedition. This monu- At the St. Stephens Mission ment is erected in memory of Col. George M. St. Stephens mission was established in 1884 by a Sliney, W. N. G., who served under Gen’l. Jesuit missionary, and provided schooling for Merritt’s command on this expedition. Col. Arapaho children. Arapaho Chief Black Coal con- Sliney was so impressed by the beauty and fer- sented to its being built in 1888. The Center tility of the Owl Creek Valley, as seen from this houses a museum which is open Mon.-Wed. and point, that he then and there determined to Friday, 9 a.m. -3:30 p.m. (closed 12-1 for lunch) return and make his home in the valley. His and is open all year. plan materialized and on October 3, 1883, the Colonel returned and crossed through this pass T Wind River Casino accompanied by his wife and three daughters. 10369 Hwy 789, 1 mile S of Riverton. 866-657-1604. www.windrivercasino.com The Wind River Casino is the only casino in IVERTON ENDEZVOUS Wyoming. Offering over 44,000 square feet of R R gaming activity, it is owned and operated by the T Riverton Museum Northern Arapaho tribe on the Wind River

Section 5 As the site of the fur trade’s 1830 rendezvous 700 E. Park in Riverton. 856-4779 Reservation. This attraction is open seven days a and 1838 rendezvous, Riverton played host to A local history museum, the Riverton tells the week, twenty-four hours a day all year long. many of the legendary names of the moun- story of homesteaders who founded the town in There are over 400 Class III lively, Vegas style tain man era. Jim Bridger, William Sublette, Kit 1906. Housed in a charming brick building (the slots, bingo, and tables with live deal- Carson, and are only a few of former Riverton Methodist Church), the museum ers. There are always exciting special promotions the legendary trappers and traders who met offers colorful displays and self-guided tours. No and car giveaways to check out. The deli and here in 1838. The most impressive of these admission fee is charged, but donations are always cafe on site serves mouthwatering food includ- was the 1838 event, which drew as many as welcome. Museum is open 10-4, Tuesday through ing Indian tacos, juicy burgers, and daily spe- 300 people including mountain men and Saturday, throughout the year, and is closed for cials. There is plenty of parking available for all sizes of vehicles. This is also a great place to traders, Native Americans and missionaries to major holidays. An extensive research library pro- refuel your vehicle with the 789 Truck Stop on a bench of cottonwood trees at the conflu- vides access to published and primary source materials about local and Wyoming history. the premises. Just down the road in Ethete is a ence of the Big Wind and the Little Wind. For smaller satellite casino. several days, they traded and celebrated a T Wind River Heritage Center season of trapping the mountains. 412 E Freemont in Riverton. 856-0706 Riverton boasts the only rendezvous site Dedicated to preserving the natural and human that remains on original ground. The 1838 history of the West, the Wind River Heritage Rendezvous reenactment is held the third Center features lifelike displays of the Jake Korell week of June. The event features men and Wildlife Collection and a collection of historic women who demonstrate skills that were traps dating from 1804, from the fur trade era. used by the mountain men that have other- The Korell Collection specializes in Wyoming wise been virtually lost through the decades. wildlife including big-game species, predators Events include live encampment, black pow- and furbearers. Bison, bears and grey wolves are der shooting, beading, basket weaving, pow- among the most popular exhibits. Colorful diora- wow, Indian dancing, and food. Later in July, mas depicting the animals’ natural habitat serve the Riverton Rendezvous takes place at the as backdrops for the mounts. same site. Both events bring in mountain men Wildlife play an important role in the Wind LF Blair Hotels and women with historic food and crafts. The River Valley. The area has always been a prized Holiday Inn Riverton hunting ground. Historically, wild animals pro- Riverton Rendezvous also features a car and 900 E Sunset in Riverton. 856-8100 or vided meat, fur, bones, hides, horns, and even 877-857-4834. www.blairhotels.com bike show, rodeo, demolition derby, cowboy teeth. Today, they continue to be valued both for poetry, stock car races, and live music. Located in the heart of the Wind River Indian their aesthetic appeal and for their meat and Reservation, the Holiday Inn-Riverton offers its

288 Ultimate Wyoming Atlas and Travel Encyclopedia guests a full service experience with the emphasis on service. Guests are welcome to enjoy any of 26 their 122 deluxe sleeping accommodations as Major Ave IVERTON I well as the facilities in the hotel. Facilities include R NCLUDING an indoor Fundome with an indoor pool, exercise Cooper Rd Webbwood Rd room, QT’s Restaurant and the Bottoms Up N 8th St W

Lounge. Conveniently located on Wyoming Gasser Rd Highway 26, the hotel is en-route to Yellowstone N 16th St E C

and National Parks and participates ASPER W Sunset Dr E Sunset Dr in the Kids Eat Free/Kids Stay Free program. 26

37 S 26

There is plenty of parking including space for OUTHCENTRAL College View Dr Mary Anne Dr oversized vehicles W Pershing Ave , R Lincoln Ave

N 13th St Lincoln Ave C Wind River RV Park Roosevelt Ave IVERTON N 10th St E N 12th St E W Park Ave N 9th St E E Park Ave 38

1618 E Park in Riverton. 800-528-3913. E Fremont Ave N 14th St N 18th St E N 15th St E N 16th St E www.windriverrvpark.com 26 Main Ave N 12th St E E Main Ave Washington Ave N 5th St E N 7th St E N 6th St E Riverview Rd Federal Blvd E Adams Ave , L

S Wind River Mercantile E Jefferson Ave A NE AND ANDER

E Madison Ave REA Rein Rd N 12th St E N 12th St E N 12th St E 223 E Main St in Riverton. S 1st St E Monroe Ave 856-0862 or 888-879-6583 Skaggs Ln Summit Dr Pinnacle Dr Peak Dr

38 Food, Lodging S 12th St Wilshire R

Map not to scale AWLINS

N.B. owned a ranch here and was a civil engineer; establishment of St. Michael’s Mission at the site Irene was a respected school teacher on the Wind of the present community of Ethete. The mission, River Reservation. She was also a granddaughter which was established in 1913, is laid out in a of early mountain man, . circle like an Arapaho encampment. The build- ings are intact, although the mission is no longer 40 No services active, and the Northern Arapaho Cultural Museum, which contains an impressive collection Pavillion of traditional Arapaho clothing, implements, and Pop. 165, Elev. 5,609 ceremonial objects as well as an outstanding col- This little town was named for the nearby butte lection of photographs and portraits. that resembles a pavillion. L Super 8 Motel - Riverton 42 Food Section 5 1040 N Federal Blvd in Riverton. 857-2400 or 41 800-800-8000. www.super8.com Arapahoe Named for the tribe, Arapahoe sits just off the The Super 8 Motel is right on your way to Ethete edge of the Wind River Indian Reservation. In Yellowstone National Park and Teton National This reservation fringe town began in 1887 as a 1880, the Indian Service established the fist post Park, and set in the center of Wyoming cowboy post office, railroad station, and Episcopalian mis- country. Each of the 32 unique and comfortably sion. The Arapaho name (pronounced Ee-thuh- office here. Annuities were distributed separately decorated rooms come with 19” remote control tee), meaning “good,” indicates the tribe approved to the Arapaho and Shoshone people due to ani- TV’s with HBO and ESPN, individually controlled of the development. It was important to have mosity between the tribes. The Crows actually climate, data ports, and 24-hour front desk. Pets alternate gathering places for the different tribes, gave the Arapaho the name by which we know are allowed Guests are served a complimentary who still fostered old rivalries. The village is now a them; it is their word for “tattooed.” The continental breakfast with fresh baked muffins, colorful hodge-podge of eclectic cobblestone and Arapaho have no R sounds in their language. doughnuts, bagels, coffee and orange juice. There log buildings, dominated by the old mission, and They called themselves He-nau-ana-nan-wan, is plenty of free parking for all sizes of vehicles. decorated in artistic Arapaho splendor. “the chosen people.” The atmosphere is perfect for every vacationer’s T Arapaho Cultural Museum Hudson traveling experience and convenient to the multi- Pop. 407, Elev. 5,094 tude of area recreational opportunities. At St. Michael’s Mission This houses traditional tribal artifacts, including John G. Hudson was a rancher and legislator who L Tomahawk Motor Lodge warrior implements, women’s regalia, healing promoted the railroad. He owned the land on 208 E Main in Riverton. 856-9205 emblems, children’s toys and tipi ornaments. which the town was built in 1905, where Indians, There are also artifact demonstration and craft coal miners, and oil field workers could trade 39 work areas. The museum offers great insight into goods and services. The town was initially named the tribe and its traditions. Alta, an Indian word meaning “swift water” for Kinnear the nearby Little Popo Agie River. Coal was the Pop. 44, Elev. 5,410 T St. Michael’s Mission main moneymaker here around 1912, which N.B. and Irene Kinnear, for whom this post office The Episcopal Diocese of Wyoming purchases brought many European immigrants, especially was named, were prominent figures in the valley. land from Yellow Calf and Wallowing Bull for the many of Slavic descent.

Riverton Jan Feb March April May June July Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec Annual Average Max. Temperature (F) 29.2 37.2 48.0 58.9 69.4 79.7 88.8 86.6 75.4 61.5 42.5 31.4 59.0 Average Min. Temperature (F) -0.1 7.0 18.4 28.7 38.5 46.1 51.6 49.0 39.1 28.3 14.0 3.0 27.0 Average Total Precipitation (in.) 0.21 0.24 0.46 1.14 1.76 1.29 0.76 0.47 0.83 0.87 0.46 0.27 8.77 Average Total SnowFall (in.) 3.6 4.0 5.4 5.5 1.0 0.2 0.0 0.0 0.6 3.3 5.2 4.4 33.2 Average Snow Depth (in.) 1 1 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 1 0 Wind Speed ( mph / kmh ) 6 / 9 6 / 9 7 / 12 8 / 13 8 / 13 8 / 13 8 / 13 7 / 12 7 / 11 6 / 10 6 / 9 6 / 9 Wind Direction WSW WSW WSW WSW WSW WSW WSW WSW WSW WSW WSW WSW Cloud Cover (out of 8) 5.0 5.0 5.1 5.2 5.2 4.2 3.6 3.6 3.6 4.2 4.9 4.6 www.ultimatewyoming.com 289 bronze statues seen all over the US, including several that line the streets of Lander today. It is also an oil country hub, as well as being the first place in Wyoming where oil was discovered in 1833, by Captain Bonneville, who called a pool of oil he found here the “Great Tar Spring.” When the “Spring” was drilled 51 years later, it proved to be a “spouter” capable of producing 200 bar- rels a day of top-notch crude. The area is now called the Dallas Dome Field. Today, Lander provides a pleasant combina- tion of Old West hospitality and New West style. From cowboy-style horseback riding to modern eateries, guest ranches to bed and breakfasts, the town has something to greet travelers of all tastes. The community continues to honor its agricultur- al and mountaineering traditions, but has also become the headquarters for several environmen- All Wyoming Area Codes are 307 tal groups, such as the Wyoming Outdoor Council and the Nature Conservancy. All in all, Lander is a place where balance is achieved in marvelous ways. T Lander Children’s Museum The Lander Children’s Museum was formed in 1999 and provides children the opportunity for Lander innovative learning experiences that encourage them to interact with their surroundings. The stands on the creek of the same name. A military museum is targeted toward the 3-12 age group. 43 Food, Lodging post, Fort Augur (later Fort Brown) was set up The museum offers a variety of hands-on here to disperse commodities to the . It exhibits, encompassing the fields of math, sci- Lander was later moved farther north, closer to the reser- ence, art, music and reading. The Museum pro- Elev. 5,357, Pop. 7,500 vation, and dubbed Fort Wahakie. vides a place where children and families can Hailed by several publications as one of the “Best Disagreements over reservation boundaries explore, learn and discover together. The muse- Small Towns in the West”, Lander is a friendly inhibited settlement for a few years thereafter. In um is open on Saturdays from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. mix of the old and the new. The Lander Valley 1872, Chief Washakie renegotiated with the U.S. A small admission is charged. was once the tribal territory of the Shoshones, Government, and sold the land south of the T Fremont County and is still home to the sole reservation in the North Fork of the Popo Agie (po-PO-zha) River. state, the Wind River Reservation. This area was a Many settlers came from the overflowing South Pioneer Museum part of ’s excursions in 1807 and Pass City, where gold had attracted the masses. and Museum of 1808, and next became a rendezvous spot for The emerging town was dubbed Pushroot, due to the American West mountain men. Pioneers began settling in the val- the warm downdrafts from the Wind River 636 Lincoln St in Lander. 332-4137 ley in the late 1860s, and Major Noyes Baldwin Mountains that seemed to push crops from the This museum site includes a collection of struc- established a trading post in 1868, which still ground earlier in spring than anticipated. When tures and outdoor activity areas which take visi- Section 5 the town applied for a post office in 1875, the tors through the history of the American West. name Pushroot was rejected. Resident and former Teepee camps, logs cabins, and an old pioneer LANDER Pony Express rider Franklin Lowe suggested cemetery are among the highlights. The museum naming the town for Frederick W. Lander, who grounds are still a work in progress, due to a JAZZ FESTIVAL had engineered the nearby Lander Cut-off of the major resoration and expansion program begun Oregon Trail in 1857. in 1998, when the original building was declared Lander’s annual Labor Day Weekend event Agriculture was the towns best source of rev- unsafe. The museum not only features traditional Western experiences, but provides glimpses into offers beautiful scenery, excellent music and enue, and with the help of windmills, residents the past of immigrants from all over Europe, Asia, an uncrowded, small town full of enthusiastic were able to effectively irrigate most of the valley. The population grew slowly but steadily over the and Africa. Come and see what made the West jazz fans. Typically the event begins with a next several years. The town became county seat the place everyone wanted to be. Dixieland Extravaganza on Friday evening, when Fremont County was established in 1884. outdoor venues on Saturday, local venues for The streets had been designed extra wide to Saturday Night Ramble, and Gospel on accommodate the freight wagons with their large Wyoming Tidbits Sunday, and finishing with an afternoon and ox teams, and they remained so even after the In Encampment resides the state’s only two- evening of music, food and fun. Big names railroad arrived in 1906, effectively ending the story outhouse. The upper level was used and regional music are brought to town with need for the freighters. only when the snowdrifts were deep enough events for the entire family. Lander is known today as the “City of Bronze” to bury the first level. for its bronze foundry, which has produced many

Lander Jan Feb March April May June July Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec Annual Average Max. Temperature (F) 31.8 37.4 45.6 55.6 66.0 77.1 86.1 84.5 73.1 59.7 42.7 33.4 57.8 Average Min. Temperature (F) 8.8 13.8 21.6 30.7 40.1 48.4 55.5 54.0 44.3 33.1 19.3 10.7 31.7 Average Total Precipitation (in.) 0.48 0.59 1.16 2.08 2.47 1.39 0.75 0.48 1.04 1.22 0.87 0.53 13.06 Average Total SnowFall (in.) 8.6 10.7 17.5 20.7 6.7 0.7 0.0 0.0 2.6 9.3 13.9 9.8 100.7 Average Snow Depth (in.) 5 5 2 1 0 0 0 0 0 0 2 3 2 Wind Speed ( mph / kmh ) 6 / 9 6 / 9 7 / 12 8 / 13 8 / 13 8 / 13 8 / 13 7 / 12 7 / 11 6 / 10 6 / 9 6 / 9 Wind Direction WSW WSW WSW WSW WSW WSW WSW WSW WSW WSW WSW WSW Cloud Cover (out of 8) 5.0 5.0 5.1 5.2 5.2 4.2 3.6 3.6 3.6 4.2 4.9 4.6

290 Ultimate Wyoming Atlas and Travel Encyclopedia T Sinks Canyon Tweed Ln State Park Visitor Center N 2nd St 3079 Sinks Canyon Rd. 332-3077 I

LANDER NCLUDING The visitor center has interpretive materials, an outlook to the Sinks, and nature trails. 287 D St T 7 mi SW of Lander. 332-6333 Jefferson St Adams St C Sinks Canyon is so named because the Middle Jefferson St ASPER

Fork of the Popo Agie River rushes out of the S

Washington St OUTHCENTRAL

Wind River Mountains, down the canyon and , R then abruptly vanishes into a large cavern halfway Hobson St Market St

Poor Farm Rd IVERTON down the canyon. The river is underground for Wood St 1/4 mile until it emerges in a large, calm pool on N 5th St Eugene St the other side of the canyon and then continues its course into the valley below. Lincoln St , L A

The Sinks and Rise are natural occurrences, not AND ANDER uncommon in limestone formations around the E Main St REA world. The uniqueness about the Sinks is its size Garfield St N 4th St Black Blvd N 3rd St and the length of time the water is underground. N 2nd St Sweetwater St 287 N 1st St The lower portion of the canyon is made up Dabich Ave primarily of sandstone and limestone formations Priggs DrCanyon St R

which are easily eroded by wind and water. The AWLINS formation in which the river actually vanishes is Cliff St S 3rd St called Madison Limestone, a massive, off-white CanyonStS 2nd St S 8th St Cascade St limestone formation that is very soft and soluble. S 7th St Cliff St Geologists speculate that the Sinks could Cross St ShoshoneS 4thSt St have been formed in two ways: either the cavern and cracks in the limestone already existed Parks St 287 because of earth tremors and the river found and Buene Vista Dr Fremont St flowed into them; or the river naturally eroded the soft limestone creating its own passage underground. It’s likely that a combination of these two events created the Sinks. For many years it was unknown if the water in the Rise was Map not to scale the same water flowing into the Sinks. Dye tests had been attempted on occasion but no conclu- Section 5 sive evidence was found. In 1983 the U.S. What does Popo Agie mean? Geological Survey and Sinks Canyon State Park The name Popo Agie (pronounced Po-Po EAGLE BRONZE staff conducted an official dye test using red dye. Zshuh) comes from the Crow Indians and means The dye, called Rhodamine, was poured into “Tall Grass River.” “Agie” means river in the Crow FOUNDRY the water above the Sinks and testing with a flu- language and “PoPo” means tall grass or tall rye orometer was simultaneously started in the pool grass. The Crow named the river this because of at the Rise. Samples were taken every five min- the tall bunches of rye grass that grew along the For a truly unique and inspiring experience utes but the first traces of dye were not detected banks of the river in the valley. while traveling through Lander, plan a stop at until two hours after it had been dumped into Eagle Bronze Foundry. This unique foundry Wildlife, Flora and Fauna the Sinks. When the testing was finished, nearly produces world-class art and sculpture for all of the dye had been recovered, leading the Famous for the mysterious Sinks and Rise and some of the most famous artists and collec- researchers to conclude that all of the water flow- its spectacular geology, Sinks Canyon is the home ing into the sinks comes out at the Rise. to a myriad of wildlife, birds and plants. There tors throughout the world. The foundry was However, two new facts were discovered during are three major habitats in the canyon and each is started in 1985 using the 7,000-year-old lost the testing: 1) MORE water comes out at the Rise unique. The most dramatic contrast in habitats is wax bronze casting method. Small bronzes to than flows into the Sinks, and 2) the water that between the heavily forested north facing slope large monuments are produced from incep- flows out into the Rise is a few degrees WARMER and the drier, sagebrush and juniper covered tion to completion. Visitors can see the entire than the water entering the Sinks. south facing slope. The central mystery of “where does the water The north facing slope is in the shade much of process. The foundry is renowned for quality go for over two hours?” has yet to be solved. the winter allowing heavy snow to accumulate. and ships fine art casting to clients through- Geologists speculate that there could be a large This snow provides moisture needed for Limber out the US, Canada, Japan, Europe and the underground aquifer or lake that slows the Pine and Douglas Fir trees. Birds such as the Middle East. The sculpture mix ranges from Western Tanager, the Mountain Chickadee, Blue progress of the water. There could also be a myri- small jewelry-sized pieces through monu- ad of channels and passages that the water has to Grouse and Townsend’s Solitaire live in these circulate though before it reaches the Rise. It is thick, coniferous forests. Mammals such as the mental castings in both bronze and stainless probable that a combination of these two geologic Pine Martin, Porcupine, Black Bear and the Red steel alloys. Eagle Foundry produces more formations slows the progress of the water. Squirrel prefer the forest. Wildflowers such as bronze monuments than any other foundry Heartleaf Arnica, Lupine and Phlox are also found. in the United States. Over 750 monuments Rainbow Trout in the Rise The south facing slope receives a great deal of have been completed, including the largest The huge trout in the Rise are not stocked. They sunshine all winter which melts snow quickly. have arrived there naturally and stay because it Lack of snow makes it excellent winter range for bronze monument in the world. Tours are is a protected area with an extensive food sup- many animals because they don’t have to struggle open to the public Monday through Friday ply. The fish are mainly Rainbow Trout, though to find food. and Mule Deer are beginning at 9:30 a.m. During the winter, some are Browns. commonly seen on this rocky slope in the winter. tours are given Monday, Wednesday, and No one has weighed or measured the fish but Golden Eagles and tiny Cliff Swallows can be Friday. Eagle Bronze Foundry is located at some of the larger ones probably weigh up to 12 seen souring above the cliffs. Green-tailed pounds. There is no fishing in the Rise, but visi- Towhees and Kestrels also make this place their 130 Poppy Street, just 1 mile east from tors enjoy throwing fish food to the trout from home. Wildflowers such as Sego Lily, Hawksbeard downtown Lander. the observation platform above the Rise. and Arrowleaf Balsamroot are bright splashes of www.ultimatewyoming.com 291 color among the blue-grey sagebrush. The third Sinks Canyon habitat is the Riparian zone along the Popo Agie River. It is the moist area along either side of the river where thick stands of Aspen, Chokecherry and Willow grow. Moose are occasionally seen in the Riparian zone browsing on Willow or Red-Osier Dogwood. Birds such as the Lazuli Bunting, the Dipper, the Rufous Hummingbird and Black- headed Grosbeak can be seen in the heavy foliage. In this moist Riparian zone are wildflow- ers flouris such as Sticky Geranium, Yellow Monkeyflower and Columbine. All of these habitats make Sinks Canyon a rich place to observe nature. Surrounding National Forest and wilderness areas extend the opportunity to experience Wyoming’s beauty at its best. Remember, you are a visitor to the home

All Wyoming Area Codes are 307 of the Bighorn Sheep, Marmot and the Golden Eagle. Please respect the wildlife, observing them from a distance, and please leave the wildflowers for others to enjoy. Reprinted from Wyoming State Parks and Historic Sites brochure. H Sinks State Park S of Lander “The Sinks” are a series of cracks and crevices at the back of the cavern before you. The water of the Popo Agie River flows into the Sinks. It then reappears at the “Rise of the Sinks”, a large calm pool 1/4 mile down the canyon. The Sinks are eroded into the soft white Madison Limestone formation. No spelunkers have explored very far into the sinks since the cracks narrow down to very small log and rock choked passages. It is unknown exactly how old the Sinks are although they are likely an Ice-Age feature thou- sands of years old. The glaciers that carved the canyon exposed the soluble limestone and the billions of gallons of water from melting ice helped create the underground passages For many years it was unknown whether the

Section 5 water flowing into the Sinks was the same water flowing out at the Rise. Dye test have proven the connection but have also revealed another mys- tery: it takes the water flowing into the Sinks over over 2 hours to reappear at the Rise. It was also discovered that more water flows out at the Rise than goes in at the Sinks. Why the water takes over two hours to make the journey and where it goes during that time is still a mystery. The amount of water flowing into the Sinks varies throughout the year. Most of the time much of the limestone cavern is exposed and all of the river’s water flows underground through the cracks and fissures in the rock. The average flow of the Popo Agie into the Sinks is about 100 cubic feet per second. This level drops in the winter and jumps dramaticlly during spring runoff. In late May and early June the river swells with melted snow from the mountains and the river fills the cavern com- pletely. During run-off over 500 cubic feet per second of water flows into the cavern. The water is so high that logs and driftwood are

Wyoming Tidbits White men first discovered oil in 1824 at a site near Lander. Capt. Bonneville noticed oil during a fur trading expedition in 1832, but development didn’t start until the mid 1880s. The Popo Agie River disappears into this cavern at Sinks State Park just south of Lander.

292 Ultimate Wyoming Atlas and Travel Encyclopedia jammed into cracks in the ceiling of the cave- high above where people stand when the water is low. The cracks in the limestone can- I not handle all this extra water and the excess NCLUDING spills over into a seasonal streambed (called the overflow channel) to the left. Depending on how much snow is in the mountains, the Sinks can overflow from a few days to a few C

weeks. Every year during spring run-off there is ASPER water flowing both below and above ground S between the Sinks and Rise. OUTHCENTRAL , R

H Sinks State Park: IVERTON The Rise of the Sinks Just past entrance to Sinks Canyon State Park The Rise of the Sinks is a large spring where , L

the water of the middle fork of the Popo Agie A NE AND ANDER River reappears after flowing into a limestone REA cavern called the Sinks, located a quarter of a mile upstream. The water flows underground folowing an unknown path. Geologists speculate the water travels through many cracks and fissures creat- R ed in the water-soluble limestone until it rises AWLINS to the surface in this calm pool. The Rise is an active geologic formation that changes from year to year. Erosion in the river and underground alters water flow patterns and changes the amount of sand flowing into the pool. Some years the sandbar is almost gone and some years it takes up part of the upper end of the Rise. Shaped by ice-age glaciers and the power of the river. Sinks Canyon has served as a natural travel corridor for wildlife and people for thou- sands of years. Known to Native Americans for centuries, the first white to see the Sinks and Rise were fur trappers. The name Popo Agie Section 5 (pronounced Po-Po-zsha) is a Crow Indian word which means “Grass River.” The Rise was donated to the City of Lander in 1969 by Pacific Power and Light Company. The site is now part of Sinks Canyon State Park administered by Wyoming State Parks and Historic Sites. H Sinks State Park: Geology S of Lander Sinks Canyon offers an excellent opportunity to study geology. The Canyon, shaped by ice-age glaciers, cuts through 400 million years of geo- logical history. Some stratigraphy is visible above the Rise. The uppermost formation, recognized by its light color and massive cliffs is the Tensleep Sandstone. The black and red HE EOLOGY OF INKS ANYON streaks on the face of the cliffs are oxides of T G S C iron and manganese and are called “desert Sinks Canyon cuts through some 600 million elevations and deposited here as the glaciers varnish.” The next formation is the Amsden years of geological history and provides and melted, and the moraines or glacial debris Formation but is difficult to see because it has eroded to a grass and tree-covered slope. excellent opportunity to see the layers of rock (rocks and fine silt) left in long piles. You can Below this is Madison Limestone. Through exposed because of the Wind River Uplift. see a medial moraine cross section revealed this soft formation the Sinks and Rise occur. You have a unique opportunity to see the during road construction between the Visitor Water enters through fractures 1/4 mile different geologic formations during your drive Center and Popo Agie Campground. Look for upstrem at the Sinks, then moves laterally through the canyon. The youngest formation, the road cut where you see the widest variety down through the formation These geologic about 280 millon years old is called Phosphoria of rock sizes and types. features create the unique wildlife habitats and is at the top of the cliffs to your right. The This canyon is a young one, and yet it found at Sinks Canyon. Pre-Cambrian granite of over 600 million years shows us millions of years of rocks formations, Limestone can be dissolved by carbonic acid, a weak, naturally-forming acid created by the ago is exposed at the bottom of the switch- exciting evidence of the glaciers and of the combination of water and carbon dioxide. This backs about 4 miles from this point. Sinks—where the Popo Agie River disappears acid dissolves the limestone and continued water There is also evidence of the glacial action into a cavern formed by erosion only to reap- movement will create channels in the stone. In that was once a part of this area, including pol- pear in a trout filled pool called the Rise. this fashion the Sinks were created. The water ishing and striation of rocks, glacial erratics or reappears here through small fractures around the large boulders carried down from higher Source: Wyoming Recreation Commission the sides of the pool and in the sandy bottom. www.ultimatewyoming.com 293 H Sinks State Park: landmark of history, have been recognized for Trout in the Rise preservation by: U.S. Department of the Interior, Just past entrance to Sinks State Park Bureau of Land Management, Sublette County Historical Society. The Middle Popo Agie River is an excellent trout This trail has been marked at all accessible strem and here at the Rise two of the trout points with brass caps. species in Wyoming are found. Both brown and rainbow trout inhabit the Rise. Trout migrate upstream looking for suitable spawning areas, and the Rise acts as a natural barrier to any further upstream movement. The trout in the Rise arrived there naturally and stay because it is a protected area with an extensive food supply. The pool is deep enough and there is enough year-around water flow that it never freezes. It is unlikely that any fish travel through the fractures in the S Eagle Bronze rock upstream to the river running into the Gallery of Fine Art

All Wyoming Area Codes are 307 Sinks cavern. No one has weighed or meas- 343 Main St in Lander. 332-3384. ured the fish in the Rise, but some of the larg- www.eaglebronze.com. [email protected] er ones probably weigh 9 to 10 pounds. Located in downtown Lander, Eagle Bronze Trout swim by expanding their muscles on Gallery features a variety of fine art from national- the side of their body while relaxing the mus- L Holiday Lodge National 9 Inn ly recognized artists; including watercolors, oils, cles on the other side. In addition to what visi- 210 McFarlane Dr in Lander. 332-2511 or 800-624-1974. www.holidaylodgelander.com etchings, and bronze sculpture. Many of their tors feed them, the trout primarily eat aquatic bronze sculptures are actually cast at the Eagle insects, such as mayflies and stoneflies. The Holiday Lodge sits next to the Popo Agie Bronze Foundry, which has been in Lander since River (pronounced po-po’-zsha), in the midst of 1985. Started by Beverly and Monte Paddleford, H Lander Valley Historical Sites all the treasures in the Wind River country. The At Jct of Hwys 287/789 and 789 at roadside park the Foundry is renowned for quality and ships Clark family has owned and operated the Lodge fine art casting to clients throughout the US, Scouts and trappers visited this area in 1811 and for 22 years. They don’t consider themselves fancy, Canada, Japan, Europe and the Middle East. rendezvous were held 1829, 1830, and 1838. but do offer the things you remember from the Beverly’s studio is on site at the gallery and allows old days-clean cozy rooms, friendly faces, and old- Camp Magraw, 1857, site 2.1 miles north. visitors to get a glimpse of her work in progress. fashioned hospitality. They have DSL, expanded Her accomplishments and commissions are wide cable TV, direct dial phones, spa, winter plug-ins, Fort Thompson, 1857-1858, was located 4.4 ranging and include monumental wildlife, coin laundry, and riverfront camping for those miles north of here. Christian art, and human figures. The gallery is hardy souls touring on bicycles. When you visit open year round and offers sculpture, drawing, Camp Augur, 1869-1870, became the original Lander, bring your family and stay with theirs! and painting classes to the public. Hours are 11 Camp Brown, 1870-1871. Location was 1/2 to 5 p.m., Tuesday through Saturday. mile west on the south side of Main Street. CM Rent-A-Wreck (Sleeping Bear RV & Camp) Lander was named in 1875 in honor of Gen. 715 E Main in Lander. 888-757-2327. Frederick West Lander. www.sleepingbearrvpark.com Wyoming Tidbits H Oregon Trail-Lander Cutoff South Pass Area Popo Agie (pronounced pu-POH-zah) Section 5 About 30 mi SW of means “beginning of waters” in the Crow Hwy 287/789 Jct with State Hwy 28 Indian language. This is an old trail used by the Indians and the trappers of the fur period, a short cut to the Snake River country. It was proposed an emi- 44 grant road by mountain man John Hockaday in 1854. No emigrant trails crossed the mountains T Sweetwater River north of here. It was improved as a wagon road 18.5 mi W of Jeffrey City on US-287 for the government by F. W. Lander, in 1859 to The trail crossed the Sweetwater River for the avoid dry wastes of the roads to the south and sixth time about three miles southwest of the to provide more water, wood and forage. Here bridge on US-287. From this point, the Trail it commenced the crossing of the south end of takes a southwesterly course directly toward the Wind River Mountains and the Continental Great South Pass at the southern end of the Wind Divide and on to the Pacific Northwest. Thirteen S JB’s Wild Wyoming 628 Main St in Lander. 332-2065. River Mountains, the range that dominates the thousand people and thousands of domestic www.JBSWildWyoming.com skyline to the west. US-287 turns to the north- animals passed this way in 1859 and for thirty west and leaves the trail corridor as it crosses years thereafter it was used heavily, setting the JB’s Wild Wyoming carries Wyoming specialty products from meats to treats, including Wyoming Beaver Rim to drop into the Wind River valley. destiny of an empire. These wagon tracks and Sweetwater Station and a highway rest area offer lonely graves for many miles beyond, a great made sauces, jams, mustards, and huckleberry products. You’ll find buffalo and elk products, visitor services and information at this point. smoked meats, jerky and sausages, along with a Source: BLM brochure. selection of natural and organic produce and T Hudson-Atlantic City Road Wyoming Tidbits foods. Gluten free products are available. They This graveled road turns S from US-287 5 mi W also provide custom game processing. Satisfy your of Sweetwater Station and parallels the trail as President Gerald Ford’s father, Leslie L. King, sweet tooth with Wild Wyoming Fudge, made in- it approaches South Pass a lumber company executive in Riverton, and house with many flavors to choose from. Find Although this road stays some distance north of his grandfather, C.H. King, were two of the gifts such as collectible retro Wyoming prints and state’s wealthiest men. Ford’s mother the actual trail, it does offer good overlooks to poster cards; Wild Wyoming gift boxes for him, such historic locations as Rocky Ridge, Lewiston divorced King and later married Gerald Ford. her and the kids; body lotions, lip balms, soaps, Sr. Born Gerry King, the future president legal- Lakes and the gash of Sweetwater Canyon. On and fun bath buddies; books specializing in the the west end, the road connects with the South ly changed his name to Gerald R. Ford., Jr. Wyoming region, the Natives and the Pioneers; shortly after his 21st birthday. Pass — Atlantic City Historic Mining district near and a full line of Forest Circus parody products. WYO-28. It is an interesting fair weather choice

294 Ultimate Wyoming Atlas and Travel Encyclopedia for travelers wishing to stay closer to the trail. Contact with the Lander BLM office or Chamber of Commerce is advised before starting out. I

Source: BLM brochure. NCLUDING H The Sweetwater Valley At Jct of U.S. Hwy 287/789 and State Hwy 135 at Sweetwater Rest Area

The Sweetwater Valley is the mid-section of the C ASPER 2000 mile-long Oregon Trail. West of Casper, S

Wyoming, branches of that trail, meld into a sin- OUTHCENTRAL gle transportation corridor and here, paralleling , R

the serpentine Sweetwater River, the trail IVERTON approaches the base of South Pass. On the other side is “Oregon Country” where routes diverge toward Utah, California and Oregon. For a week emigrants plodded this stretch of , L A NE AND ANDER high altitude, semiarid desert. Everyday, more of REA the same alkali, sage and sand a continuing American Sahara. “How long for a timberd country” wrote one traveler. “…In a thousand miles I have not seen a hundred acres of wood.

All that comes near to arborification is a fringe R of cottonwood and willows along the banks of AWLINS creeks and rivers. These everlasting hills have an everlasting curse of barrenness….” For others, however, the Sweetwater was a relatively agreeable part of the journey. It was Split Rock summer, the river was low and clear, and there was grass for stock. Days were bright and mild, and scenery was plentiful. “…Still by the Sweet ever unearthed in the world. Found by Verla and remains frozen during the spring and early Water. The valley is becoming more narrow and Rhoades in 1943, it weighed 3,366 pounds. This summer because of the insulating peat. the stream more rapid. In advance and a little part of Wyoming is the richest jade source in the Early explorers and the emigrants who trav- to the north of our trail we can see the Wind world at present. Jeffrey City was also used as a eled to Oregon and California stopped here River Mountains. Their lofty summits are cov- scenic backdrop in the movie “Supergirl.” often, welcoming the ice after having spent ered with snow, and in their dazzling whiteness many days traversing the hot prairie. One forty- appear truly sublime.” T Split Rock niner, Henry Tappan, wrote in his journal that it Midway between Jeffrey City and Muddy Gap on was a good place to enjoy a julep. Travelers Section 5 H Sweetwater Willows U.S. Hwy 287/789 At Sweetwater Station Rest Station who arrived late in the summer were disap- As the dominant landmark of the Sweetwater pointed to discover that the ice had finally melt- In summer, the trilling “Kroo-oo-oo” of the sand- ed. Today the Ice Slough is nearly dry and very hill crane is heard along the Sweetwater River. Valley, the unmistakable “gun sight” notch in the summit of Split Rock aimed the emigration little ice forms in the winter because much of The endangered whooping crane has been the water has been drained off for irrigation. seen in the marshy meadows immediately directly at Great South Pass, still more than 75 south of this spot. The Sweetwater’s wide flood- miles to the west. A BLM interpretive site is at H Split Rock plain, enhanced by the irrigated and naturally this location. A second highway turn-out a few miles west offers a better (although reverse) view Midway between Jeffrey City and Muddy Gap occurring wet meadows, supports wildlife as on U.S. Hwy 287/789 large as the 1,000 pound moose and as small of the “split” and also a look at the Old Castle, a A famous natural landmark used by Indians, as the 1/4 ounce pygmy shrew. The vegetation smaller landmark south of the Trail and highway. trappers and emigrants on the Oregon Trail. Site zone in the river’s floodplain is called riparian Source: BLM brochure. of Split Rock Pony Express 1860-61, stage, and habitat. Willows are often dominant woody veg- T Ice Slough telegraph station is on the south side of the etation in Wyoming’s riparian habitats. Willows 9.5 mi W of Jeffrey City on US-287 Sweetwater. Split Rock can be seen as a cleft in provide food and cover for moose in winter, the top of the Rattlesnake Range. food and dam building materials for the beaver, While resting near this marshy spring, 49er J. and streamside shade and insects for fish. Goldsborough Bruff wrote, “by digging a couple of feet, ice is obtained. The surface is dug up all H Split Rock Willow roots also help stabilize stream- Interpretive Site Signs banks. Without stabilizing vegetation, the around by travelers as much from curiosity as to obtain so desirable a luxury in a march so dry Midway between Jeffrey City and Muddy Gap streambanks erode and spring floods cut deep- on U.S. Hwy 287/789 er into the riverbed. This accelerates erosion and thirsty…” The tundra-like turf that covers the marsh once provided enough insulation to pre- Split Rock and affects wildlife. Unstable streambanks Split Rock was a relay station during the turbulent result in a loss of land, soil moisture, and vege- serve frozen sub-surface water well into the hottest summer months. For the pioneers, it was 18 month life of the Pony Express. The Express tation growth. This affects wildlife and livestock, operated at a gallop, speeding mail across the and ulltimately man. Willows are one of the a minor miracle. Source: BLM brochure. West in only 19 days. However, because of the valuable plants that help maintain a healthy “talking wire,” its days were numbered. The tele- and diverse wildlife community. H Ice Slough graph reached California by October 1861, end- About 10 mi W of Jeffrey City on US Hwys 287/789 ing a unique American experiment. 45 Food The Ice Slough is a tributary which drains into the Sweetwater River approximately five miles Jeffrey City east of this point. Immediately before you is a Elev. 6,324 slough or low lying wet area from which the trib- Wyoming Tidbits This company town is named for Dr. Charles W. utary takes its name. This marshy expanse is cre- The Arapahoes, historically considered ene- Jeffrey, a philanthropist who promoted mining in ated by a variety of grasses and related tufted mies of the Shoshone, began living on the the area. The Jeffrey City area is famous for being marsh plants called sedges which form a patch- Shoshone reservervation in 1878. The the home of the Western Nuclear Company, work of surface plant life. Water from the tribu- Shoshone are now outnumbered on the which processes uranium from nearby mines. It is tary flows through unseen beneath the peat-like Wind River Reservation by the Arapahoes. also the site of the biggest single chunk of jade vegetation. The water freezes solid in the winter www.ultimatewyoming.com 295 How it was done two days. From Split Rock, it was about six The Oregon Trail Mail relay stations were set up 10 to 15 miles days to South Pass, the gateway to the Great The Oregon Trail, the main route of westward apart, each with two to four men and extra Salt Lake Valley, California’s gold fields and expansion from 1812 to 1869, passed through horses. About 500 of the hardiest western the Pacific Northwest. the valley below. An estimated 350,000 people ponies were bought at prices up to $200 each. Emigrants on the Oregon and the Mormon journeyed past this point in search of new lands Most important of all, 80 riders were recruited Pioneer Trails coming from Devil’s Gate, 12 and new lives in the West. from the most daring, determined and toughest miles east, often camped below this point on Two routes of the Oregon Trail coming from “wiry young fellows” in the West. the Sweetwater River where good grass and Devil’s Gate, twelve miles east, converged Lightly equipped and armed, each rider rode water were available for stock. West of here, below this point on the Sweetwater River where about 70 miles round trip, exchanging horses at ruts carved in the rocks by iron wheeled wag- good grass and water were available for the three relay stations. Over his saddle he carried ons are still visible. Generally, Mormon emi- stock. Just west of here, ruts carved in the rocks the mochila, a leather cover with four mail grants tried to stay on the opposite side of the by iron-tired wagons are still visible. pouches. Postage for a single letter varied from river from the main trail to avoid confrontations $1 to $5. Each rider rode at top speed to his with others also heading West. Split Rock Station relay stations where the precious mochila was Split Rock Station, used by the Pony Express placed on a waiting horse and he was off again In 1844, recorded this in his and the Overland Stage, was located in the in about two minutes. Day and night, good journal about this spot. meadow below. A small log building later weather and bad, winter and summer, the served as the Split Rock Post Office until it was “(August) 17. Smokey But the sun rose All Wyoming Area Codes are 307 “Pony” never stopped, averaging 10 to 15 miles closed in the early 1940s. over the Eastern Mountains in its usual an hour across the West. Shoshone, Arapahoe, Crow and Sioux majesty. Some recent Signs of a war party of Indians occupied this pleasant valley before the The Pony’s Echo Indians ware discovered yestarddy which Oregon Trail became heavily traveled. Their Completion of the transcontinental telegraph caused some uneasiness…roled up the Steam hunting patterns, culture and life style were line on October 24, 1861 doomed the Pony on the South side…the most rugged bare changed forever. Friction between the tribes and Express. During its short life, the Express attract- granite rocks lay along the North side close to the newcomers from the East led to tragic war- ed world-wide attention that has not faded with the water…saw some fine herds of Ibex or fare and the loss to the Indians of the country time. Russell, Majors, Waddell and Company wild sheep some of which were taken and they had known as theirs. It was due to such lost over $1 million on this venture. found to be very fine eating…This region hostility that a division of the Sixth Ohio Cavalry Nevertheless, the Pony Express stands tall as an seems to be the rufuses of the world thrown was garrisoned at this site in 1862 to provide outstanding example of American enterprise, up in the utmost confusion.” escort service for and emigrant endurance, courage and determination. Trails to Opportunity wagon trains and to establish protection for the The Oregon Trail was America’s main street telegraph line. west. Building upon American Indian foot- The Sweetwater Rocks Wyoming Tidbits paths, emigrants bound for the Pacific The “Sweetwater Rocks” date back at least Northwest used the trail. They were soon fol- 1,400 million years and are some of the oldest The first oil well in Wyoming was dug in 1884 lowed by Mormons fleeing persecution, gold found in the Rocky Mountain area. These near Lander. Mike Murphy and two helpers seekers rushing to California and the thunder- Precambrian granites have been re-exposed in used picks and shovels to dig into the ing hooves of the Pony Express. recent times by erosion of much younger Chugwater formation near the Popo Agie River. The Way West Miocene and Pliocene sediments. When the Following Indian paths, fur trapping mountain sediment pressures were removed, granite slabs peeled off, producing the smooth rock Split Rock Meadows men traveledd west. Astor’s Pacific Fur Company knobs. Erosion along old fractures and shear Shoshone, Arapaho, Crow and Sioux Indians occu- opened the trail through the Rockies at South zones left the large cracks in the rocks. pied this pleasant valley long before the Oregon Pass in 1812. Mountain men guided the first “Split Rock” served as a well known land- Section 5 Trail, which changed their cultures and life styles wagon train over it in 1841. Until the mark and navigational aid because of its unique forever. This led to tragic warfare and the eventual Transcontinental Railroad was completed in loss of country they had called their own. 1869, the Oregon Trail was the way west. As shape. Emigrants were guided by the rock for many as 500,000 men, women and children an entire day’s travel when they were approach- Split Rock Relay Station, a crude log structure journeyed this way over some 2,000 miles of ing from the east. It remained in view as a with a pole corral, was built at the base of the deserts, plains and mountains. checkpoint behind them from the west for mass of rocks directly in front of you. It was used another two days. by both the Pony Express and the Overland Stage Split Rock Station and Site Map and until the early 1940s was a U.S. Post office. The Pony Express generally followed the Oregon 46 Food Trail through Wyoming to Fort Bridger, then fol- The Pony Express generally followed the Oregon lowed the existing mail route across Utah and I-80 Exit 209 Trail through Wyoming to Fort Bridger which is Nevada to Placerville and Sacramento, California. located 185 miles west of here, then followed the Split Rock Relay Station, a crude log structure existing mail route across Utah and Nevada to with a pole corral, was located at the base of the 47 No services Sacramento, California. mass of rocks directly in front of you. Come view the site at a trail station a short walk from here. I-80 Exits A detachment of the 1st Independent Battalion 184,187,196,201,204,206 Ohio Cavalry, which later became the 11th William C. “Buffalo Bill” Cody exchanged Ohio Cavalry, was garrisoned here in 1862. The horses at this site on a record ride from Red H Continental Divide troops provided escort for stagecoaches and Buttes Station to Rocky Ridge Station and back. Due to another rider’s untimely death, Cody “The Backbone of the Nation” emigrant wagon trains and protected the new Elevation 7,178 feet telegraph lines. was forced to add an extra leg to his normal relay and eventually covered a total distance of Above Sea Level Split Rock 322 miles in 21 hours and 40 minutes, using On I-80 Exit 184 Originally called the Emigrant Road, the Oregon 21 horses in the process. On another occasion, The three principal river systems of the U.S. Trail was the main route of westward expansion Cody rode one horse at top speed for 24 miles west of the Ohio have their source in Wyoming. from 1812 to 1869. An estimated 500,000 when chased by Indians from Horse Creek The Mississippi thru the Missouri and its branch- people journeyed past here in search of new Station east of Independence Rock to Plant’s es, the Madison, Gallatin and Yellowstone; the lands and new lives in the West. Station just east of here. Columbia flowing into the North Pacific, by its Because of its unique shape, Split Rock “Split Rock”, the mass of rock on the skyline longest branch, the Snake; the Colorado by its was a well known trail landmark and naviga- to the north, was an Oregon Trail landmark. It longest branch, the Green. tion aid. Emigrants were guided by the rock was visible for a day before it was reached from Precipitation falling west of this point finds it for an entire day’s travel from the east. It the east and for two days when it was viewed way into the Green and Colorado and eventual- remained in view behind them for another looking back from the west. ly to the Gulf of California, and that falling east

296 Ultimate Wyoming Atlas and Travel Encyclopedia of this point finds its way to the by way of the Mississippi drainage basin. THE AND THE I Food, Lodging NCLUDING 48 America’s Heritage: The Red Desert Pass and the crossing of the Continental Divide. The pass served as the primary mountain gate- Wamsutter Hidden away in southwestern Wyoming lies Pop. 681, Elev. 6,709 way from the east to the west for hundreds of one of the most unique and spectacular land- thousands of emigrants. Even today you can still Named for a UP bridge engineer in 1884, this set- scapes in North America—The Red Desert. A C

see the imprints that their wagons left behind on ASPER tlement along the railroad had originally been wondrous and incredible place: the desert’s their long journey along the Oregon, California called Washakie, until confusion with Fort stunning rainbow-colored hoo-doos, towering S and Mormon pioneer trails. OUTHCENTRAL

Washakie forced them to change the name. The buttes and prehistoric rock art define this rich Prior to the arrival of early settlers and , R landscape and provide a truly wild “home on

Hole-in-the-Wall gang once robbed a train nearby. explorers, the desert was also home to many IVERTON Beautiful turritella agates, derived from ancient the range” for the largest migratory game herd cultural and spiritual sites of the Shoshone peo- shelled invertebrates, can be found in the wild in the lower 48 states—over 50,000 pronghorn ple. Scattered throughout the landscape are country to the south. antelope in addition to a rare desert elk herd. two thousand-year-old rock art sites, and stone Since the settlement of the West and even circles are said to be significant spiritual sites for , L A

long before, this region has played a special AND ANDER

H Wamsutter the Shoshone people. Tipi rings, outlining REA 243 McCormick St in Wamsutter role in the lives of Native Americans and early ancient campsites of the Shoshone are evident settlers. For thousands of years the Red Desert “On summer nights, this lonely place is merely a throughout the region. A dramatically scenic has been a sacred place of worship for the small group of lights set in blackness and black volcanic plug known as the Boar’s Tusk Shoshone and Ute Tribes. Pioneers, Pony that is strongly associated with the origins of silence. Over the immense darkness, stars shine Express riders, Mormon settlers and mountain brilliantly, neither dimmed by other lights nor their culture is also in the center of the region. R

men also found important landmarks among AWLINS hidden by smoke and dust in the air. A meteor the desert’s features, guiding them west toward Losing Touch with the Land: Development flames against the sinking stars; an aeroplane, Oregon, Washington, Utah and California. Pressure Continues winging toward Cheyenne or Salt lake City, seems trying to imitate it. Wamsutter is on the A Rich High Desert Landscape The Red Desert is the largest unprotected edge of the Red Desert, where colors change and undeveloped high elevation desert left in The desert offers an unparalleled wilder- hourly, according to the brilliance and direction the United States. Despite this distinction, the ness experience, with world-class wildlife area has long been the focus of multinational of the sunlight.” (from Wyoming: A Guide to Its viewing and hunting opportunities. Seven History, Highways and People, 1941.) This is oil, gas and mining corporations. According to wilderness study areas (WSAs) including: the Bureau of Land Management, this pres- the Great Divide Basin. To the south and west Buffalo Hump, Sand Dunes, Alkali Draw, South the waters flow to the Pacific Oean. To the east sure will continue to grow, with the industry Pinnacles, Honeycomb Buttes, Oregon Buttes hoping to turn southwestern Wyoming into and north they flow to the Atlantic. but here, and Whitehorse Creek, the largest cluster in the major natural gas producing region in the atop the nation’s Continental Divide, the waters Wyoming, lie within the Jack Morrow Hills area United States by 2015. drain inward, with no outlet to the sea. Ute and of the Red Desert. These WSAs make up the Over 90 percent of southwestern Wyoming’s Shoshoni Indians once roamed this semiarid heart of a landscape that includes the largest public land is available for oil and gas leasing Section 5 desert but were eventually forced out after the active sand dune field in North America, ice-cold and development. Thousands of gas wells 1850s by increasing numbers of whites traveling freshwater ponds, seasonal wetlands, aspen sprawl throughout this region, linked together along a transcontinental corridor containing the covered buttes, volcanic features and colorful by a growing web of service roads, giant over- Overland Trail (15 miles south). Stage stations clay hillsides for which the desert is famous. head powerlines and pipelines. These gas fields served as the first settlements until 1868 when Throughout the year these landscapes serve fragment wildlife habitat and disrupt animal the Transcontinental railroad was built. as home for thousands of animals and a para- behavior and migration. Emissions from gener- Wamsutter emerged as a section town on the dise for humans to retreat from the world into a ators and compressors degrade air quality, mainline of the Union Pacific, and later devel- vast wilderness. In the springtime, thousands of while contamination from spills can pollute sur- oped as a railhead for shipping cattle and sheep sage grouse gather in the desert as they have face and groundwater. with stockgrowers from Wyoming and colorado done for centuries. In the fall, hunters and The Bureau of Land Management is respon- using the stock yards. In the early 1900s, as new wildlife lovers descend on the region to track sible for developing a management plan for the deer, antelope and elk through sixfoot stands of lines were built, Wamsutter’s importance began region. It is within this plan that the future of the sage, limber pine and aspen. Rock hounds and to decline. however, the Lincoln highway—which rare desert elk and the heart of the Red Desert paleontologists can find fossilized shark’s teeth, became U.S. 30 and then Interstate 80—brought itself will be decided. Permanently protecting tortoise shells and petrified wood scattered on 600,000 acres, out of 15 million acres of pub- many travelers and Wamsutter hung on as a the ground. Anthropologists can gaze at the service community. Eventually, oil, natural gas, lic land in southwestern Wyoming would safe- sheer southern face of Steamboat Mountain, guard at least one area of the state’s and uranium were discovered, securing the wander back in time and picture the land when town’s existence. Wamsutter, the oldest continu- magnificent wide-open landscape, an area that it once was a favorite “Buffalo Jump” hunting possesses all the qualities of a National Park. ally occupied town within the basin, like many area for Native Americans. Wyoming communities expanded and contract- Safeguarding Our Last Best Places ed to accommodate economic realities and a Heart of the West’s History microcosm of Wyoming history. Citizens in Wyoming and around the country Mountain men exploring the Rockies first have attempted to permanently protect the Red set foot in the wild, wide open land of the Red Desert for over 100 years. Dr. Frank Durham Desert in 1825. During one of the earliest sur- launched the first effort in 1898 to designate WAMSUTTER veying expeditions of the west, in 1871, Dr. the region as a “winter game preserve.” His Wilson Ferdinand V. Hayden, passing through part of attempts were followed by Wyoming Governor 80 the Red Desert, noted the region’s aspen St Leslie Miller’s 1935 campaign to designate the McCormickMcMachon Rd groves and clear flowing springs upon “great Divide Basin National Park.” Despite many Boyd StGriner Ave 173 Logan St Wamsutter Croo Steamboat Mountain. Except for a few roads nner Ave decades of support and numerous attempts the 30 He and the tragic loss of bison herds roaming the Gleason Dr Ave Red Desert has yet to be protected—leaving any Great Divide Basin, the landscape looks very Second St Second Murray Ave Wertz decision about the future of the region to the k s Gap Rd similar today as it did then. BLM’s current planning process. Bugas Ave On the northern edge of the Red Desert lies

Bucho Ave a historic gold mining area. Here, the old mining This article reprinted with permission from towns of South Pass City and Atlantic City remain Wyoming Outdoor Council. For more information Map not to scale today. Just south of them lies the Sweetwater on the Red Desert contact the Wyoming Outdoor River valley that provided an easy route to South Council, 262 Lincoln, Lander, WY 82520. Latham Rd www.ultimatewyoming.com 297 49 No services T Superior Community Center Wyoming Tidbits 27 Main in Superior. 382-7223 I-80 Exits 168, 170 Once a bustling community of 3,000 people, Jade is the official stone of Wyoming. It is Superior lost much of its population when the 50 found along the Sweetwater River, and in coal mines closed in 1963. Interpretive signs areas of Fremont and Sweetwater counties. guide visitors through the history of the area. Red Desert H Superior In the central part of the Great Divide Basin’s Red H Overland Stage Route In Superior Desert, this tiny town overlooks the biggest S side of 1-80 at Exit 130 stretch of unfenced land in the lower 48 states. This monument is dedicated to the miners who Remains of old stage station can be seen on worked here and especially to those who lost the other side of the railroad tracks at Point of their lives. It is also a monument to the living—- 51 No services Rocks exit southwest of exit against the hillside. those who have remained and exemplifiy the men and women whose independent character I-80 Exits 152, 154, 156, 158 H Overland Stage Route created this commuity. I-80 Exit 130 near Point of Rocks Table Rock The town of Superior, Wyoming had its ori- At the beginning of the Civil War military gins in the coal boom days around the turn of Also known as Pulpit Rock, the stone pinnacle for strength in the West declined and often it was the century. A prospecting team led by Morgan All Wyoming Area Codes are 307 which this railroad station was named was the impossible to safeguard stage carrying the Griffiths entered Horse Thief Canyon in 1900, site of a sermon given by Brigham Young in 1847 United States mail along the and established the site for the first of to Mormon pioneers headed for Utah. In 1876, Oregon/California/Mormon Trail. Early in 1862 Superior’s many coal mines. The town grew to the area achieved further notoriety when two “Stagecoach King” acquired the its largest population of 2,700 in the mid prospectors salted the mines at Diamond Mesa transcontinental stage business and the United 1940s when, during world War II, hundreds of and Ruby Gulch in order to swindle several east- States mail subsidy contract. He named his new workers came to the mines, living in quarters erners out of over a half million dollars. company the Overland Stage Line and soon fashioned from boxcars. abandoned the central trail. The Superior mines produced nearly 53 No services Holladay determined that a route further 24,000,000 tons of coal annually in their prime, south was better because it would be safer, second only to Rock Springs. There were eight I-80 Exits 136, 139, 142, 146 shorter and closer to Denver where economic mines in the area, all but two owned and oper- Bitter Creek growth was taking place due to the 1859 gold ated by the Union Pacific Coal Company to sup- rush. The new route, established by trapper and ply their locomotives. The Premier and A station on the Overland Stage Route, the town explorers, became known as the Overland Trail. Copenhagen Mines were independents. became a railroad grading camp in 1868. The The Overland split off from the older Oregon The Union Pacific mines were the last to creek for which it was named got its taste from Trail near North Platte, Nebraska. From that close their mining operations, forbidden by law the high alkali content of the water. point, coaches paralleled the South Platte, rolling to sell their coal to the public, and having no H Mama Sage west through Colorado before turning north to great use for it themselves because of the At rest area just E of Exit 142 begin a steep and rocky climb into southern advent of the diesel locomotive. The D.O. Clark Wyoming where the trail flankd the medicine Mine was closed in 1963. Oh! “Mama Sage.” It seems endless, the sage; Bow Range before turning westward again. After The town of South Superior was an incorpo- the rolling sage-covered Wyoming hills. crossing plains, rivers and streams and winding rated town, with a separate identity from the Sagebrush, the shrub that means survival to the through mountain passes, the trail entered the company town of Superior. This Hall and the world’s largest populations of pronghorn ante- Green River Basin. Traffic passed through this standing buildings located north of here are all lope and sage grouse. Blown free of snow by valley, following Bitter Creek to its confluence part of South Superior. The company-owned the Wyoming winds, sagebrush is the major with the Green River. It then branched north to houses and stores have long since disappeared. Section 5 winter food for these species, and provides join the Oregon Trail near the junction of the These are the remnants of an independent ven- important habitat for a host of small mammals Blacks Fork and Hams Fork Rivers. From there ture built to serve the miners living in the area. and birds. the trail continued west and south toward Salt The sagebrush deserts of the Great Divide, Lake City and eventually Placerville, California. H Superior Interpretive Signs Green River, Bighorn River and Wind River The short, but exciting period of Overland At Superior Union Hall basins also support large herds of wild, free- Trail transportation lasted for several years Prospecting ranging mule deer and horses and over 150 until 1869 when the Union Pacific Railroad In 1900, while prospecting was being carried on other species of wildlife. The only elk herd in replaced the transcontinental overland stage in the vicinity of Cumberland, Morgan Griffiths, Wyoming associated entirely with a sagebrush as the major, east-west transportation system. Gus Paulsen and a party of prospectors went desert is found immediately north of this area. Nevertheless, the emigrants and settlers con- northeast from Rock Springs to prospect in There are 13 species of sagebrush in our tinued to use the trail until after the turn of Horse Thief Canyon, since outcrops of a promis- state. Sagebrush has a deep taproot, which the century. ing deposit of coal were known to exist there. enables it to survive in areas with as little as six Only twenty miles out, they established inches annual precipitation. Sagebrush is a H Point of Rocks Monument their camp in the picturesque canyon, named hearty shrub and an able provider for Wyoming’s I-80 Exit 130 near Point of Rocks by early settlers who claimed that a gang of wildlife. That is why Wyoming works so hard to Ruins of Almond Overland Stage Station, 1862- outlaws had made this their rendezvous and keep her sage-covered ranges productive. 8. Located beyond railrod tracks, 1640 feet to hiding place for their stolen horses. One of the “Mama Sage” is a special part of the formula southward of this marker. Erected by Wyoming crew was delegated cook for the party, with that makes our wildlife—worth the watching. Historical Landmark Commission 1947. the understanding that anyone who com- plained about the cooking would immediately 54 Food 55 Food take over the job. One morning when breakfast was especially Point of Rocks Superior inedible, a crew member spoke out unguarded- Elev. 6,509 Pop. 244, Elev. 6,700 ly, stating that the biscuits were nothing but This was once the Almond Stage Station, serving Once a booming coal-mining town, Superior had dough, the bacon burnt to a cinder, and the as a stopover for those headed to the gold mines a population of over 3000 when the original coffee not fit to drink. In the midst of his tirade, at South Pass and Atlantic Cities. Its name is mines closed in the 1960s. Named for the he remembered the agreement, and stopped taken from the nearby sandstone ridge overlook- Superior Coal Company, which in turn was with a smile. “You know, boys, I like everything ing the Bitter Creek. The station was established named for the high quality of the coal here, cooked that way.” The original cook kept his in 1862. Now, Point of Rocks is mainly a compa- Superior was the setting for the 1992 film thankless job and the men continued to sit ny town for the nearby Jim Bridger Coal Mine Leaving Normal. Today, the nearby Jim Bridger down to their less-than-delectable victuals. and Power Plant. Mines and Power Plant are revitalizing the area. With drinking water from the springs in the

298 Ultimate Wyoming Atlas and Travel Encyclopedia vicinity, and wild game, including deer, antelope, and sage chickens in abundance, the crew had all the necessities, and were not dependent on I the day’s drive by buckborard and mule to NCLUDING headquarters in Rock Springs. Morgan Griffiths was a native Welshman who came to America in the late 1870s. Universally liked by all who knew him, he car- C

ried on much of the preliminary negotiation ASPER work when the United Mine Workers of S

America organized the miners of the Union OUTHCENTRAL Pacific Coal company. , R

Gus Paulsen, who later became Mayor of IVERTON Superior and Outside Foreman of mines, had quite a reputation. The miners said he could take a meager lunch, a pocket compass, and a , L

map of any district, no matter how difficult the A NE AND ANDER terrain, and locate the section corners with REA unerring accuracy. He had the distinction of once refusing a raise in salary when it was offered him, stating that the company was then paying him all that he was worth. R

Opening the Mines AWLINS Prospecting revealed that Seams Nos. 3, 1, 7, and 13, the latter also known as the Van Dyke Seam, were of sufficient thickness to justify the development of mines. Preliminary railroad sur- veys were made up the long canyon from The Superior Union Hall was built as a trapezoid. Thayer Junction on the main line. In the meantime, locations for mines had been selected and a town site laid out. On October 23, 1903, the drift into “C” Mine was 10,000 shares, with a par value of $100 each, Superior, after the Superior Coal Company started, and on February 24, 1906, the slope headquarters located in Cheyenne, Wyoming. which originally opened the mines. was begun. “A” and “B” Mines were opened The company merged with the Union Pacific While the company-owned homes were April 30, 1906, and “D” Mine on June 30th of Coal Company on May 1, 1916. built adjacent to the mines, the town of South the same year. “A” Mine was opened on No. 7 In 1934, when it became evident that the Superior was developed to house independent- Seam, and later included Seams Nos. 1 and 3. coal reserves contiguous to the present Superior ly-minded individuals. At first a tent town, called Section 5 The work was under comparatively light mines were nearing exhaustion, active prospect- various names such as “White City” and “Dog cover, and haulage was carried on by mules, ing was started in the vicinity of the mines. By Town”, it grew, and a relatively large commercial with a few electric locomotives. The haulage mid 1936, reliable evidence indicating reserves center developed. from Nos. 1 and 3 Seams was conducted by an of 40,000,000 tons justified the opening of a endless rope haulage on an outside plane to new mine of large capacity, with further sub- 56 No services the tipple, a distance of 3,500 feet. The coal stantial reserves partially prospected. was all undercut with electric mining machines, Put on a producing basis on New Year’s H Riverton Project and drilled with electric drills. Day 1939, the D.O. Clark Mine, was modern Just W of the Jct of U.S. Hwy 26 and 287 at “E” Mine was opened during 1910, and a in every respect. Named for the man who did Diversion Dam Jct rest area modern steel screening plant was constructed so much pioneer coal mining work in Portions of the High Plains were not settled that year. A shaft had been sunk for a distance Wyoming, Utah, Colorado and Washington, it until the early 20th century because water was of 100 feet from ground level, with a 200 HP was designed for production of 7,500 tons per needed for irrigation. Responding to pressure electric hoist with full automatic control erected day of two shifts. for Western settlement, Congress created the on the steel headframe that mounted the shaft. Premier Mine and Copenhagen Mine Reclamation Service in 1902. Its purpose was Self-dumping cages were used for hoisting pur- were opened and managed by private coal to develop water resources making possible cul- poses. By 1937, “E” ‘s reserves had been companies not directly associated with the tivation of what was considered desert waste- depleted and the mine closed down. UP Coal Company. land. One effort was the Riverton Project. The first shaking conveyor installed in the Located in the Wind River Basin it was under- Rock Springs district was put into operation in Town Development taken by the Bureau of Reclamation in 1920. “C” Mine during 1927. About 1910 a gas pro- This map shows the location of the Union The Midvale Irrigation District of the ducer plant was installed at “D” Mine, the gas Pacific coal mines and coal camps built in the Riverton Project involves 73,000 acres, three being used to operate an electric generator, but years between 1906 and 1910. The town of dams—Bull Lake Dam to the south and the quantity of electric power developed was so South Superior is purposefully left off this map. Diversion Dam and Pilot Butte Dam to the east, small and the expense so great, that the plant It was not owned by Union Pacific Coal 100 miles of canals and 300 miles of laterals. was abandoned in 1922. Company and in this time period, “the compa- Diversion Dam, completed in 1923, diverts The Superior mines were originally opened ny” as it was called, had little use for the future water from the Wind River to the Wyoming by the Superior Coal Company, organized town. South Superior is located between Canal. It is noteworthy as the first dam in the December 28, 1905, with a capital stock of “Superior” and “Japanese village” shown on this nation with a road incorporated into its structure map. It was bordered on the west by Union and the first to contain a fish ladder. Pacific’s “B” Mine. Historian T. A. Larson describes the Riverton A number of dwelling houses and miscella- irrigation project as “a perennial object lesson in Wyoming Tidbits neous mine buildings were placed under con- the formidable difficulties inherent in large- struction as soon as the site for mining scale reclamation projects in the West.” Initially The Red Desert in south central Wyoming development was chosen, and during the life of posing financial and engineering problems, it drains neither to the east nor to the west. The ”A” Mine, a store and schoolhouse were erect- came to involve legal and political issues. continental divide splits and goes around the ed. In the main part of the town, store and During the rise of Native American self determi- desert on all sides leaving the basin without office buildings were constructed. nation the Arapaho and Shoshone tribes exer- normal drainage. The town was known as Reliance until, on cised their right to Wind River water, granted by July 14, 1906, the name was changed to an 1868 treaty. Court battles were fought over www.ultimatewyoming.com 299 water used to irrigate land opened to home- H steading by Congress in 1905. The struggle Wyoming Tidbits South of Fort Washakie on highlights the importance of water to the West. Highway 287 just past Ethete turnoff H Wyoming Winds Wyoming’s first Indian reservation is also its Fort Washakie, headquarters of the Wind River At Diversion Dam rest area only one. The Wind River Reservation was cre- Reservation, was originally established as Camp ated in 1868 and is more than 2 million acres. Augur, on the site of present-day Lander, in This site lies at the northernmost extent of the 1869, in accordance with the treaty with the Snowy Range Mountains, a spot where the high Shoshone and Bannock Indians to protect them mountain peaks end and the winds begin. T Shoshone Tribal from Sioux, Arapahoe, Cheyenne and other hos- Winds here may exceed 70 mph at times, blow- Cultural Center tile bands. In 1870 it was re-named Fort Brown, ing winter snows, leaving ridges and slopes bare, The Shonshone Tribal Cultural Center is located and in 1871 it was moved to the present loca- and exposing grasses and shrubs to provide in the Historic Fort Washakie exhibits of tribal tion, built from adobe and from materials sal- food for elk, mule deer and pronghorn antelope. crafts, art, Shoshone leaders treaty documents, vaged from the old fort. In 1873, the Elk and mule deer migrate from the high maps, agreements, and other historical artifacts. commanding officer headed a company mountain summer range to these foothills and There are also a displays of historical data and assigned to explore toward the head of the Big basins to winter. The Wyoming Game and Fish photographs. Vaious events such as walking tours, Wind River for a possible wagon route. In com- Department has acquired 12,870 acres of the cultural classes, and workshops are held through- pliment to the Shoshone chief, the post was wind blown slopes and basins along out the year. There is also a gift shop offering named Fort Washakie in 1878. It was aban- All Wyoming Area Codes are 307 Wagonhound Creek to protect and maintain this Native American handcrafted articles. The center doned in 1908. crucial winter range. is open Monday through Friday, 9 a.m. to 4 p.m. The exposed vegetation provides important H The Shoshone-Episcopal winter forage for elk, mule deer, and antelope T Washakie’s White House Mission Boarding School These animals require both food and cover to An interesting, history-filled building on the 1890-1945 survive the harsh winter conditions. Winter grounds of the Shoshone Tribal Cultural Center is On Trout Creek Rd S of Fort Washakie 2 mi W range in Wyoming is in critically short supply. If Fort Washakie’s historic White House, built in of Hwys 26/287. Just N of the mission building significant numbers of animals are to survive, 1913. The Cultural Center is open M-F, 8-4:45. The school was founded by the Reverand John winter range must be protected. Admission is free, donations requested. Roberts. Born in Wales, in 1853, Roberts was a These winter ranges are managed to pro- missionary to the Shoshones for 66 years. vide a balance of vegetation, including grasses T Chief Washakie Plunge ‘Our hope is in the children and the and shrubs to provide forage, and conifers to A warm outdoor pool, jacuzzi, and private baths, young people, the old people can’t hear!” So provide cover from wind, sun and heat loss located on the Wind River Indian Reservation. spoke Washakie, Chief of Shoshones, when, in during cold periods. Wind and man interact on T Fort Washakie 1889, he gave this land—160 acres of hal- the land to free and protect your wildlife lowed Shoshone ground, traditional place of resource. As you travel, keep in mind the Shoshone Cemetery Fort Washakie solemn assembly and religious ceremony—to Wyoming wind is a friend! his friend the “White Robe”, the Reverend Mr. A number of notable individuals are buried here. Roberts. Thus the unlettered warrior-states- 57 Following are the names and inscriptions from man, nearing the end of a long life and heavy their monuments. They can all be found in the labors, bequeathed a share of his burdens to Fort Washakie southwest corner of the cemetery. an Oxford educated ecclesiastic who, through- Pop. 300, Elev. 5,570 Sacajawea out a similarly long lifetime, would similarly Named for the great Shoshone Chief Washakie, Died-April 9, 1884 labor to lighten the problems of people experi- who encouraged peaceful relations between A guide with the Lewis and Clark Expedition encing transition. whites and Native Americans, Ft. Washakie is the 1805-1806. Identified, 1907 by Rev. J. Roberts To that end the missionary established his school. Its cornerstone was laid in 1890 and,

Section 5 only fort ever named for an Indian chief. It is who officiated at her burial. now the headquarters for the Wind River despite wilderness handicaps, the Georgian Reservation. Originally called Ft. Brown, and Bazil building was completed within a year. Here, on later Ft. Augur, it became a place of protection Son of Sacajawea Aged 86 years Died 1886. He soil consecrated by former tribal rituals, for the Shoshone people from the Arapaho and was reburied here. January 12, 1925. Shoshone girls learned a Christian catechism. To their teacher’s credit, new knowledge was Sioux, their traditional enemies. Chief Washakie Baptiste Charbonneau lived here until his death in 1900, when he was imparted without disparagement of old beliefs. Dedicated in the memory of Baptiste Washakie, approaching his centenarian year 102. The fort remained a protective entity until Charbonneau papoose of the Lewis and Clark 1909, when hostilities between the Shoshone and having studied the “White Robe’s” proce- Expedition—1805-1806 Son of Sacajawea. Born dure, submitted to baptism on January 25, and Arapaho declined. Some of the original Feb 11 1805. Died on this reservation 1885. buildings still stand. 1897. Honored and respected, the Reverend Buried west in the Wind River Mountains. John Roberts D.D., L.L.D. retired from office fol- Richards And Hall lowing 40 years of service. But only death, com- Sacred to the memory of Mrs. Maggie Richards ing in 1949 in his 96th year, could end his work. Wyoming Tidbits and Mrs. Hall. This school, largely self supporting through Pioneer white settlers killed July 23rd, AD. revenues from its farm lands, was in session for The Shoshone Indians believe that deceased 1873 by a raiding band of hostile Sioux Indians 55 years. It closed in 1945. tribe members should take all their personal in their ranch home on the site of the present belongings with them. They often placed the City of Lander, Wyoming H Washakie At Fort Washakie on Blackcole St deceased’s iron bedstead atop the grave as a marker. At the Sacajawea Cemetery a few T Shoshone Episcopal Mission The great Shoshone Chief, and skilled hunter, miles from Fort Washakie, there are still many See a collection of original structures from one of strategist, and warrior against his tribal enemies iron bedsteads visible. the earliest missions on the Wind River Indian was noted for his friendship towards the white Reservation still in use today. men. He united his people. He was born about

Fort Washakie Jan Feb March April May June July Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec Annual Average Max. Temperature (F) 32.4 40.7 46.7 56.9 67.4 77.4 85.6 84.2 74.3 62.1 45.0 36.5 59.1 Average Min. Temperature (F) 3.1 10.4 16.0 25.3 34.8 42.4 47.6 46.3 37.0 27.7 15.4 6.2 26.0 Average Total Precipitation (in.) 0.32 0.39 0.75 1.84 2.58 1.70 0.78 0.56 0.99 0.93 0.64 0.31 11.79 Average Total SnowFall (in.) 6.6 7.1 10.6 11.2 2.4 0.3 0.0 0.0 0.9 5.5 9.2 6.1 60.2 Average Snow Depth (in.) 2 2 2 1 0 0 0 0 0 0 2 2 1

300 Ultimate Wyoming Atlas and Travel Encyclopedia 1804 and died February 20, 1900. Shoshone Indian Reservation was created by the Great CHIEF WASHAKIE was made. It is thought that the various Treaty of July 3, 1868. Fort Washakie, from Shoshone tribes may have united under one I 1879 to 1909, was a military post. Chief Washakie is remembered as one the the chief to deal with threats by hostile tribes, NCLUDING most famous and beloved Native Americans. such as the Sioux and Cheyenne. Washakie became an ally of white men, 58 Food, Lodging This last great chief was a pioneer in changing a course in American history by leading his deciding early that warfare was pointless and a people to a mutually cooperative relationship policy of adaptation and mutual assistance Atlantic City C should be followed. He assisted U.S. Army Pop. 57, Elev. 7,675 with the U.S. government. The date of ASPER Washakie’s birth is unknown, but it is widely operations, with military forces and advice, Driving 27 miles south of Lander on Wyoming S believed that when he died in 1900 he was at against hostile tribes, particularly the Sioux and OUTHCENTRAL Highway 28, and then taking a gravel road left Cheyenne. Washakie granted right-of-way , R for roughly less than five miles, you arrive in least 100 years old. His father was a Flathead and his mother was from one of the Shoshone through Shoshone land in western Wyoming to IVERTON Atlantic City, a century-old ghost town. Gold the Union Pacific Railroad, aiding the comple- miners poured into this district in the late 1860s tribal groups, probably a Lemhi. The future tion of a coast-to-coast rail line. and, within a few months, created three typical Shoshone chief was named Pina Quanah Washakie’s forces fought with General frontier gold camps here — South Pass City, (Smell of Sugar) when he was born. , L

The surviving story of how Washakie Crook against the Lakota and Cheyenne in the A

Atlantic City, and Miner’s Delight. Today, Atlantic AND ANDER Battle of the Rosebud during the summer of REA City can easily claim the title as boom/bust capi- became associated with the Shoshones 1876. Although the confrontation was a stand tal of Wyoming. Since its official platting in April relates that the Flathead village in which his 1868, the town has experienced a continuing family was living was attacked by Blackfeet off, Washakie has received credit for influencing series of mining booms and busts, all but one Indians. Washakie’s father was killed. The sur- Crook’s decision not to pursue the allied Indian tied to the fortunes of gold. viving villagers scattered. Washakie’s family armies further. He advised Crook to, “Leave them alone for a few days. They cannot subsist R

In 1867, Atlantic City’s population approached was eventually taken in by Lemhis. He and a AWLINS 300. When W.H. Jackson took his 1870 photo- sister remained with the Lemhis even after their large numbers in the camp and will have graph of Atlantic City, the town sported a three their mother and other family members to scatter out for meat and pasturage. They will block main street with business buildings on both rejoined the Flatheads. begin to fight among themselves and some will sides and heavily populated residential areas on Washakie later joined the Bannocks, a tribe sneak away to their agencies.” When General the hillsides and in Beer Garden Gulch. hostile to white men. He lived with them five Custer confronted the massed Indian armies Several miners from South Pass City in 1868 years before joining the Green River Snake only one week later, he met with total defeat. discovered “The Atlantic Ledge”—gold-bearing Indians, who had peaceful relations with whites. Washakie’s strategy of divide and conquer final- quartz several feet thick and thousands of feet Washakie became close friends with Jim Bridger ly won the war. long. The discovery spawned a boom of free- during the 1830’s and gave his daughter to The Shoshone chief also sought the best milling gold that resulted in a population of near- Bridger in marriage. Perhaps this friendship for his people, requesting schools, churches, ly two thousand in two years. influenced Washakie’s decision to ally himself and hospitals on Shoshone lands. He also During the town’s boom, it possessed a brew- with the whites in exchange for their defense of pushed for a reservation in his beloved “Warm ery, a beer garden, a large dance hall, and an his people against their Indian enemies. Valley” (Wind River Valley) which had been opera house. After three years, the town consisted given to the Crows, enemies of the

Washakie became a noted warrior. Section 5 of a log school and a two-story stone building Although the name by which he would be Shoshones, in the 1851 Fort Laramie Treaty. constructed by J.W. Anthony in which Robert widely known has been translated in various In 1868 the United States, determining that McAuley operated a store. The ninety-foot upper ways, it apparently dealt with his tactics in bat- the Crows had broken treaty terms, gave the story served as a dance hall where tle. One story describes how Washakie devised valley to the Shoshone Indians at the Fort conducted business. In 1862, Emil Granier, a a large rattle by placing stones in an inflated Bridger Treaty Council. In 1896, Washakie French engineer, proposed a twenty-mile sluice- and dried balloon of buffalo hide which he tied ceded lands bounding mineral hot springs way to provide water. The ditch, built with on a stick. He carried the device into battle to near Thermopolis for public use, requesting $1,000.00 and three hundred Swedes, passed frighten enemy horses, earning the name “The that a portion of the waters be set aside for through miles of hard rock, circled around the Rattle.” Another translation of “Washakie” is free use by people of all races. town and angled south. Christina Lake, located at “Shoots-on-the-Run.” The famed leader and warrior died on the head of the ditch, was dammed to create a By 1850 Washakie was head chief of the February 20, 1900. He was buried with full mil- vast water supply. Unfortunately, the grade had itary honors at Fort Washakie. Washakie is been laid out with too much slope, leaving the Shoshones, apparently earning the position by his deeds in battle and wise counsel, remembered for his clear vision and strong sluices wiped out and water spilling over. The leadership in an extremely difficult era. result was a supply of “liquid gold” that had every though there is no record to show exactly —Courtesy of Wyoming State Archives miner rushing in, creating small bonanzas and when and under what conditions the decision heavy whiskey consumption. Forlorn and defeated, Emil Granier returned to France to explain the project’s failure and to Along the way they left heaps of rock which are the growing interest in vacation homes made the request refinancing. Instead, Granier was jailed, still visible today. Many of the nearby mines re- town slowly grow again. In the 1980s the U.S. tried, and sentenced to life imprisonment. opened. By the start of World War Il, this short- Steel mine closed, and with economic hard times Despite the Granier ditch failure, Atlantic City lived excitement faded: When the government throughout Wyoming, most of the people in this made the following additions: Mr. Giessler creat- declared gold a non-strategic metal, the mines community left to find jobs. ed a new store in 1898; the Carpenter family cre- were forced to close. In their search for metal, Each spring, the eternal hope of the gold min- ated a two-story log hotel in 1900; July 4, 1900 scavengers came into the area and dismantled ing community grows as geologists, promoters, included a rodeo on Main Street; and in 1912, many of the mines in the district. and would-be investors drift in and out of the log church was built which came to be By the 1950s, Atlantic City was listed as a Atlantic City. The wind of this old gold town known as “National Shrine.” ghost town. During several winters in the 1950s always whispers of another boom on its way. By 1875, all of the gold had been harvested, and early 1960s, only three or four people Atlantic City Tour remained in the town. In 1950, the only remain- and in 1920, all of the mines were shut down. 1. Beer Garden Gulch. To the east lies Beer Garden ing business in operation was the Carpenter During the Great Depression of the 1930s, Gulch, so named because of the two breweries Hotel— a one-night stay in the cabin was one Atlantic City experienced a small boom as the that operated during Atlantic City’s early years. dollar and meals were fifty cents. E.T. Fisher Company built and operated a dredge Nothing remains of the extensive saloons, gaming Later in the 1960s, interest in a different on the streams near Atlantic City where it took houses, and red light district. Only the stream, out seven hundred thousand dollars in gold. The metal-iron ore brought hundreds of people to the which provided the water for Wyoming’s first two-man operation was comprised of a “traveling area when U.S. Steel constructed a large, open pit brewery, still exists. mill” mounted on rails. While one man controlled mine three miles northwest of Atlantic City. the dredge, the other handled the two-story gold Although most of the miners commuted from 2. Dexter Mill. The large Dexter Mine and Milling washer, oiling bearings, and watched for nuggets. Lander, several settled in Atlantic City. This and Company’s cyanide mill was built in 1904 at con- www.ultimatewyoming.com 301 store. For many years, Giessler successfully oper- ated the store, a freighting business, and a ranch on Willow Creek. He installed the first telephone system in the area in 1904. After his death, his wife, Emma, operated a cafe and boarding house for the booming town. After the store closed in the late ‘30s, it was not opened again until the iron ore boom in the 1960s. A U.S. Steel worker, Lyle Moerer, restored the building. He and his wife, Jerrie, ran a store, gas station, and bar for several years. Since then, various owners have operated it as a bar and steak house. It is on the National Register of Historic Places. 12. Drilling Rock. While hand drilling holes for dynamite was dangerous and demanding work, the early miners enjoyed showing off their skill at drilling contests. This rock was quarried from

All Wyoming Area Codes are 307 nearby cliffs and brought to Atlantic City for con- tests. In recent years, there has been a national revival of drilling contests. 13. Harsch Chicken House. This structure, slowly being reclaimed by the elements, is easily spotted in early photo- graphs of Atlantic City. A long time resident of the town remembers it as the Atlantic City Harsch family’s chicken house. It also probably served as an early home.

siderable expense, but it recovered little gold. The 7. Assay Building. Early photographs of Atlantic City 14. Main Street. This block contained a variety of company eventually went bankrupt. In the late show the front part of this building, which may businesses through the years, including a butcher ‘20s, the buildings were moved to the Carissa have been one of the several assay offices during shop, a general store, a drug store, and several Mine near South Pass City where they still stand the first boom. Presently it is a private residence. saloons. The private residence in the middle of today. A private residence was built on part of the the block on the north side was once part of foundation of the mill. 8. Granier building. Emile Granier came to Atlantic Blackie’s Saloon. The Huff-Green saloon was City in 1884 before Atlantic City’s second gold located next to it. 3. School House. Education was sporadic in early boom. A French capitalist, he supposedly invest- Atlantic City. The first recorded school was taught ed almost a quarter of a million dollars in his 15. McAuley Cabin. This cabin, where the Robert in a private home in 1869 by Miss Irwin. Some hydraulic mining project. To the south and west McAuley family lived for many years, dates back time later a schoolhouse was located here, but of Atlantic City, one can still see evidence of the to the late 1860s. Many other families have occu- around the turn of the century, a cowboy riding 25-mile ditch constructed to bring water down pied it through the years. through town knocked down a pupil, Jean from Christina Lake, high in the Wind River 16. Fisher Cabin. Now abandoned, this cabin Harsch. The citizens then moved the school to a Range, to Granier’s claims east of Atlantic City. belonged to a bachelor by that name, according safer location off of the main roads, east of the His ditch was completed in 1888 and operated to several accounts. It may have also been used present location of the church. for several years. In 1893, Granier’s company as a schoolhouse. Section 5 went bankrupt, and he left. Ironically, Granier’s 4. Sypes Barn. The Sypes dairy barn dates to the dream of worthwhile gold recovery was realized 17. McAuley Store (Hyde’s Hall). This building early 1900s. Below the barn, the Sypes also built a by the Fischer-Crawford dredging operation in was constructed around 1869 by J.W. Anthony, huge, two-story house. Charley Sypes was a book- the 1930s; the dredge’s gold was retorted into who was never paid for his work, as happened keeper and caretaker for the Dexter Mining and $10,000 bricks in Granier’s former building, with many of his jobs. Robert McAuley then Milling Company. In addition to running the which burned down a few years later. opened a store here that supposedly also had dairy, he also served as postmaster for several gaming tables, a saloon, the post office, and one years during the 1920s at the Granier building. 9. Saloon. The saloon was one of the of the best dance floors in Wyoming. According When the Timba Bah Mining Company took over earliest and most popular places in Atlantic City. to local legend, Calamity Jane, then living in the the Dexter interests, Sypes remained as its agent. An 1869 edition of the Sweetwater Mines news- nearby settlement of Miner’s Delight, was once a He later committed suicide because of debts, and paper noted that it was owned by Bill Long dance hall girl here. The second story was his large, white house was dismantled and moved. (Lawn) who was part Indian and was reportedly removed after being weakened by an earthquake at one time kidnapped by Chief Red Cloud. in the early 1900s. Judge McAuley, the Justice of 5. Gustafsen House. Martha Harsch and Pete Saloons were built before the church and schools, the Peace, was a well respected, imposing man Gustafsen occupied this home after they married as in most frontier mining towns. of the community. In the 1920s, one of the local in 1912. Martha’s sister, Nora, whose husband dis- characters, Tom Hyde, who was famed for the appeared after their first year of marriage, also 10. Harsch House. John Murphy, an early miner, many wives he wooed and lost through lonely lived with them. The Harsch sisters were always built a house here in 1868 and operated it as the hearts clubs, restored the building and renamed called by their maiden name. Until Martha’s death, Atlantic Hotel, which was mentioned in James it Hyde’s Hall. It served as a community dance the Harsch family had been an integral part of the Chisholm’s book, South Pass, 1868. Murphy also hail for several years. town’s history for almost a hundred years. Most of owned a house of ill repute in South Pass City. the family members are buried in the Atlantic City Active in creating Wyoming Territory from the 18. Private Cemetery. On the hillside behind the Cemetery on the hill east of town. Dakota Territory, he served as the first sheriff of McAuley Store, on private land, is a small ceme- Carter County. He remained in the area and died tery, sometimes called a children’s cemetery. Only 6. Gratrix Cabin. Reportedly the oldest building in in Lander, where the local newspaper obituary one headstone remains since most of the others Atlantic City, it was occupied by Judge Buck mentioned his “weakness for strong liquors.” were made of wood. The inscription reads: “Lydia Gratrix, a late 1860s arrival who served as a Justice Mae, only daughter of R. and L. McAuley, 1874.” of the Peace. The building may have also served as 11. Giessler Store and Post Office (Atlantic City the site of town meetings and a school. Gratrix Mercantile). After the success of an earlier store 19. St. Andrews Episcopal Church. In 1911, the boasted of having lived in three counties (Carter, east of the McAuley Store, Lawrence Giessler con- Atlantic City residents began raising money Sweetwater and Fremont); two territories (Dakota structed this building in 1893 out of adobe brick, through plays and dances to build the town’s first and Wyoming); and one state (Wyoming)—all covered with metal siding. The next year he built church. It was consecrated in 1913, and for many while living in this same house at this site. a large livery barn across the street, behind the years Miss Ellen Carpenter looked after it. By the

302 Ultimate Wyoming Atlas and Travel Encyclopedia T South Pass City Pop. 17, Elev. 7,905

Sister city to Atlantic City, this gold mining town I was built in 1866 when soldiers from Fort NCLUDING Bridger decided to prospect here. Before that, it had been a stopping place for wagon trains head- ed west, and then a stage and Pony Express sta-

tion. It flourished until the gold ran out in the C 1870s. The population once peaked at 2,000 in ASPER

1868. Periodic attempts to find more gold in the S area have met with occasional success, but no OUTHCENTRAL , R great “mother lode” has been found since the early days. Calamity Jane worked here during the IVERTON , and Esther Hobart Morris, the world’s first female Justice of the Peace, upheld that office

here. South Pass City still feels like a genuine Old , L

West town, complete with false front buildings, A NE AND ANDER thanks to restoration efforts since the 1960s. REA South Pass City originated from a gold mining camp on Willow Creek in 1867 that quickly grew to become the largest town in the state. Within eighteen months, its population exceeded two thousand. And in 1870, South Pass City boasted R AWLINS ATLANTIC CITY a population of 4,000. Reprinted from Atlantic City Brochure Unlike other gold-mining communities that evolved into saloon towns, South Pass City became a family-oriented community for miners with wives and children due to the Indian raids. During the raids, the town’s women and children 1960s, the church was beginning to show its age. 25. Carpenter Hotel (Miner’s Delight Inn). The quickly headed towards a cell behind a local mer- Through a community effort, the new people of Carpenter family arrived in Atlantic City in chant’s wine cellar. Continuing to join forces, the Atlantic City restored the building. Since then it October 1890 during an aborted attempt to women of South Pass City also held meetings and has served as the ecumenical, community church. reach the West Coast. Clarence Carpenter went discussed women’s rights. Mrs. Esther Hobart It is on the National Register of Historic Places. to work for Emile Granier. The next year, his Morris, was a strong advocate of women’s right to wife, Nellie, began serving meals to miners in vote. That same year, Mr. William Bright created a 20. Third School House. When the second school their home on this location. Due to a small boom bill that passed, giving equal suffrage to women. house—a cold, drafty building—began sliding from the Dexter Mining Company in 1904, the down the hill in 1927, the town’s people dis- After the bill’s passage, Mrs. Esther Hobart Morris

Carpenters built a new addition, took in board- Section 5 was appointed justice of the peace. mantled it to build this schoolhouse, which ers, and put up the Carpenter Hotel sign. When The town also claimed the first area bank, a remained in use until the 1950s when the popu- Nellie became ill, her daughter, Ellen, took over school system, a newspaper, and a stage service. lation of Atlantic City plummeted. Today this is most of the work. During the boom of the The following mines of South Pass City became a private residence. 1930s, the hotel was expanded again. “Miss Ellen” gained a wide following with her all-you- highly productive: the Carissa Lode, the Franklin, 21. Huff Hotel. Jake Huff built the Huff Hotel, one can-eat, family-style meals. Miss Ellen operated the Shields, and the Jim Crow Hoosier Boy. of the most imposing buildings of early Atlantic the hotel until her death in 1961. Former visitors However, when the largest of the mines, the City, as well as a livery barn, candy store, and of the hotel, New Yorkers Paul and Georgina Carissa Lode, dried out, so did the population. By bunkhouse. Only the Huff Candy Store remains. Newman, bought and began restoring the hotel 1880, South Pass City was nearly deserted. Today, Built later, about 1903, it was operated by the in 1963. For more than two decades the Miner’s the remaining buildings are the jail, the hat shop, Huff sisters. Among the first settlers, Jake Huff Delight Inn was recognized widely for its fine and the Smith Sherlock store that has been had a financial interest in many of the businesses, dining. After Paul’s death in 1986, Gina kept the recently converted into a museum. From the including a brewery, saloon, gold mines, a stamp restaurant open. In 1997, Ken, Donna and Lester south, the graveyard overlooks the town, and to mill (west of town), and a lumber mill. Ballard purchased the former hotel. Their love of the north, you can see the Carissa Mine. 22. Harsch Blacksmith Shop. An early arrival in the history of the area brought them to Atlantic T South Pass City South Pass City, Philip Harsch had a blacksmith City, where their historic building is presently a State Historical Site shop in that town until he moved to Atlantic City bed and breakfast. Travel 35 mi S of Lander on Hwy 28, and opened this shop. His son, Henry, operated it 26. Diana Stamp Hall. The first stamp mill in turning at the sign, and go another 2 mi until the 1920s. The dredging of the 1930s to reach South Pass City. 352-0256. Atlantic City, a ten stamp mill, was constructed in http://www.wy.blm.gov/rsfo/rec/trails.htm destroyed the remaining structures, but horse- 1869 by a man named Rice. Later the Diana Gold shoes still occasionally turn up in the vicinity. Company milled ore from various mines here. The South Pass gold rush started in 1867, and South Pass became the largest city in Wyoming. 23. E.F. Cheney Blacksmith Shop (Located across the Because of metal scavengers, nothing remains of the mill. Local residents have always referred to But the boom went bust almost as quickly as it street). This young man arrived in Atlantic City by started, and the region fell into decline. Today the stagecoach from Point of Rocks during a spring the road and hill and Mill Hill, and it has been a favorite ski hill for decades. partially restored ghost town of South Pass City is snowstorm in 1869. His diary, found at the Pioneer the center of the South Pass Historic Mining Museum in Lander, is one of the few day-by-day 27. Toll Road. In April 1869, the Carter County District with numerous historic sites. accounts of life in early Atlantic City. In the 1870s, Commissioners approved the operation of a toll South Pass City contains over 20 original he opened his own shop, but as the population of road between South Pass City and Atlantic City. structures, including a jail, livery stable, school, the town decreased, he moved his business to the The original site is probably in the draw, halfway saloons, and home. The authentically furnished growing community in Lander Valley. up the hill. However, people were not inclined to pay a toll since other roads could be taken, and 24. Atlantic City Volunteer Fire Department. Atlantic the toll was soon discontinued. City existed as a community for almost a hundred years without a fire department. With the influx Portions of this article are reprinted Wyoming Tidbits of people during the iron ore boom, a volunteer from Atlantic City brochure. The first gold mining district in Wyoming fire department was organized. Local residents, was organized on November 11, 1865, at including those from South Pass City, donate South Pass City. many hours to keep the fire department viable. www.ultimatewyoming.com 303 mend his wagon. A gun could be purchased or repaired at the gun shop and be used at the SOUTH PASS AREA shooting gallery. A miner lucky enough to “strike it rich” could deposit his gold at the local bank or ship it home on a Stage. A stout jail held troublemakers, while a school saw to the educational needs of the children. Doctors and lawyers hung out shingles to serve the needs of the new frontier community. Ranchers and farm- ers soon moved nearby. Booms and Busts All booms must end. In 1872, a bust hit the Sweetwater Mining District. Most miners became discouraged over the absence of large gold deposits and the lack of sufficient capital. By 1875, less than one hundred people remained in the area. Even the nearby military post of Camp

All Wyoming Area Codes are 307 Stambaugh closed in 1878. Many prospectors wandered to other boom towns to continue their relentless search for Reprinted from Wyoming State Parks and Historic Sites brochure. gold. Some folks moved to nearby settlements and played important roles in the founding of South Pass Hotel will give you a realistic glimpse A Busy, Dynamic Community such towns as Lander, Pinedale and of what it was like to stay in the real west during Businessmen arrived to fill the needs of the Thermopolis. However, a few persistent miners the late 1800s. At the Miner’s Exchange Saloon, prospectors, and South Pass City soon developed remained and helped start the area’s future gold booms. A large hydraulic operation, a copper you can play billiards on a restored ca. 1840 bil- a main street one half mile long. A resident could mine, a dredge, a strip mine and the continued liard table, or you can visit the Smith-Sherlock conduct business in general stores, butcher gold speculation created South Pass mining General Store. At the Gold Mining Interpretive shops, restaurants, sawmills, clothing stores, rushes in the 1880s, 1890s, 1930s and 1960s. Center you’ll gain historic insight on the gold sporting goods stores, a jewelry store and a furri- mining practices during the late 1800s. Costumed The population of Atlantic City and South Pass er. Visitors could stay at one of seven hotels and City bounced between a handful of people and interpreters can be seen at times throughout the seek an evening’s entertainment at several saloons summer, gold panning and black smithing. as many as 500 residents. Today, a few prospec- and “sporting houses” all supplied with liquid tors continue to pan for gold and a couple of Oregon Trail and South Pass refreshments by two local brewers and a whole- miners are still digging for ore. sale liquor establishment. The Oregon Trail had several major destina- Woman Suffrage tions, including Utah and California. The first A miner could leave his horse at one of four large emigration occurred in 1843 when over livery stables and hire any of several blacksmiths This rough and ready frontier community 1,000 people made the arduous 2,000 mile, six to shoe the animal, sharpen his mining tools or played a role in the woman suffrage movement. month trip. In total, nearly 500,000 individuals followed this route across the continent. The ruts of their wagons and the graves of those who died enroute are still visible nearby. The last recorded wagon crossed South Pass in 1912. South Pass is Section 5 the gentle ascent where the trail crosses the Continental Divide called “Uncle Sam’s backbone” by the emigrants. A stage and telegraph station where the trail made its final crossing of the Sweetwater River was established in 1850. That nearby site is now known as Burnt Ranch. Gold Many Oregon Trail emigrants were traveling to California in search of gold which had been discovered at Sutters Mill in 1848. Thousands of people hoped to strike it rich, but only a few succeeded. By the 1860s, gold and silver dis- coveries in Colorado, Nevada, Idaho and Montana resulted in hundreds of new boom towns. When the Carissa Mine began producing gold in 1867, a rush to the South Pass area began and South Pass City was founded. The boom continued in 1868 and Atlantic City and Miners Delight were quickly erected. The area’s population soared to approximately 2,000 resi- dents. Dozens of mines and hundreds of placer claims kept the miners busy. South Pass City

South Pass City Jan Feb March April May June July Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec Annual Average Max. Temperature (F) 25.7 28.3 33.5 45.1 57.4 67.3 76.6 74.6 65.4 53.1 37.2 28.1 49.3 Average Min. Temperature (F) 0.9 3.4 8.8 19.6 27.8 33.9 39.8 37.9 30.0 21.5 10.6 3.7 19.8 Average Total Precipitation (in.) 1.26 0.92 1.16 1.46 1.49 1.32 0.84 0.95 1.02 1.04 0.90 1.09 13.44 Average Total SnowFall (in.) 17.9 15.7 17.6 17.2 6.9 0.8 0.0 0.0 1.6 8.0 13.4 16.2 115.3 Average Snow Depth (in.) 18 19 17 7 1 0 0 0 0 0 4 9

304 Ultimate Wyoming Atlas and Travel Encyclopedia SOUTH PASS TOUR I NCLUDING C ASPER S OUTHCENTRAL , R

7. Carissa Saloon. The Carissa dates to the 1890s IVERTON and operated sporadically until 1949. An earlier saloon called the “White Swan” doubled as a

whorehouse and was located next door to the , L

east. The stone-walled remains of the “cribs” used A NE AND ANDER by the Swan’s “soiled doves” is visible in the hill- REA side near the northeast corner on the Carissa. 8. Smith Sherlock Co. Store. Built in 1896 of logs Reprinted from Wyoming State Parks and Historic Sites brochure. salvaged from the 1870 Episcopal Church, this

building was intended to replace the old Smith R Store next door. The family operated this busi- AWLINS In the first territorial legislature, William Bright, a stuck in a knothole while tripping the light ness, including the Post Office until 1948. Peter saloon keeper, mine owner and representative fantastic and had to be pulled free by several Sherlock blinded during an 1880s mining acci- from South Pass City, wrote and introduced a men. The dance hall now contains the fee dent, was the clerk. He could find anything in the woman suffrage bill. When this bill passed and counter, information center, video theater, store and recognized patrons by the sound of the governor signed it in December 1869, exhibits and a gill shop. ALL VISITORS MUST their footsteps. The Friends of South Pass now Wyoming became the first territory or state to PAY FEES HERE. operate a concession area here. allow women the right to vote and hold office. In February 1870, the county commissioners 4. Administration. The original buildings include 9. Interpretive Center/Gold Mining Exhibit. This gen- appointed Esther Morris as justice of the peace, a liquor warehouse, residence, law office and eral mercantile store was built by town constable making her the nation’s first female judge. Even store. This modern facility houses artifacts not Jim Smith about 1874. The store provided goods though her selection was controversial in South currently on exhibit, research files, etc. for local miners, residents and area cowboys. The Pass City, she was an effective judge and tried Authorized personnel only. building was used as a warehouse after 1896 for twenty-six cases. Esther Morris represents the the Smith Sherlock Store. Today the building is 5. Tibbals Cabin. The two stone dugouts at the utilized as a museum exhibit center. important and unique role that women played in rear were miner’s residences in 1867-68. In the Section 5 frontier towns. 1880s the existing front room was built and the 10. The Cave (Fort Bourbon). The massive interior In 1966 the Wyoming 75th Anniversary kitchen was added in the 1890s which then stone wall was built in 1868 to protect perishable Commission purchased South Pass City as a incorporated the dugouts as additions to the food and liquor. Archaeologists found secretly birthday present for the citizens of the state. The kitchen. Barney Tibbals, manager of the Carissa buried gold in a cast iron pot near the back wall. once dilapidated buildings are now restored to Mine, lived in this cabin and later rented it to Folklore says when townspeople feared Indian their splendor of 1898-1912 and most are open his employees. attacks, women and children were locked safely to the public. Many of the 30,000 artifacts in the in the back while the men went out to fight. site collections are original to the town and are 6. Carr Butcher Shop. During the early 1900s exhibited in their original locations. The labor of William Carr operated a butcher shop here. 11. The John & Lida Sherlock House. This was built many individuals and several state agencies have Animals were killed and quartered at his corral in during the 1890s and early 1900s. When the combined to create one of the most authentic his- Slaughterhouse Gulch, about two miles south of family had another child, they added another toric sites in existence. Visitors can literally step town then processed at the shop. room. The original building on this lot was a back into another era to view the “Old West” as it really was at South Pass City.

Wyoming Tidbits

South Pass City is said to be haunted by the spirit of Polly Bartlett. An innkeeper, Polly supposedly laced her guests meals with arsenic and took their gold. Shot by a victim’s relative, Polly was buried in an unmarked grave at the edge of town.

South Pass City Tour 1. Public Parking Area. 2. Restroom Area. now located near the parking area and a uni-sex facility is located near the Sherlock House. 3. Visitor Center. This 1890 dance hall also functioned as a theater, community center and Sunday school for many years. A stage driver who lost a leg to frost-bite, got his wooden peg The Carissa Mine www.ultimatewyoming.com 305 large hotel which burned about 1877. The cabin 22. Red Garage. This garage, built in the 1920s to currently is under restoration. house one of the Sherlock family’s first automo- biles, was constructed of logs salvaged from the 12. Restroom And Drinking Fountain. butcher William Carr’s abandoned home and Jim 13. Ruins. This collapsed cabin once stood across Smith’s 1868 cabin, located where the Collections the street, west of the red garage. The original Administration Building #3 is today. foundation is still visible and was moved to this 23. Ice House. This small frame cabin was used to location in the 1950s. The original building on store ice for food preservation and later as a sum- this lot was a store, also used as a post office and mer residence. court house during the 1860s and 1870s. 14. Stamp Mill. This huge device crushed gold bear- ing ore fed under the 1,000 pound pistons through chutes at the rear. The gold was then separated from the dust by a variety of methods. In 1869 this mill stood near the Franklin Mine a half mile 28. Miner’s Exchange Saloon. John Swingle, a coun- upstream and was powered by a large overshot ty commissioner, building contractor, bar owner, water wheel. Later, in Palmetto Gulch two miles stable owner and undertaker erected this struc- All Wyoming Area Codes are 307 east, it was run by steam. This is the only remain- ture in 1869. This was his popular Miners ing mill of more than 20 used in the district. It was Exchange Saloon, where gold could be exchanged moved to this location to protect it from vandals. for whiskey. Later, the building was used as a res- DO NOT CLIMB ON THE STAMP MILL. idence. A millinery operated by two “tough 15. Wolverine Mine. This small mine was dug women” in this building may have disguised a searching for a vein of gold ore. Known as the bordello in the rear. Wolverine Mine it never found a paying quantity of 29. Sweetwater County Jail. In answer to the needs gold and was soon abandoned. The exhibit allows 24. South Pass Hotel. Opened as the Idaho House of the raucous mining town, the county built this visitors to safely enter a mine tunnel and experi- in 1868, this was the finest of many hotels in jail in 1870. One man who could not bear incar- ence the damp, enclosed atmosphere of a mine. South Pass City. It was acquired in 1873 by Janet ceration in the tiny, frigid, dark cells committed 16 Schoolhouse. Citizens built this school just west Sherlock, the widowed mother of five children. A suicide; several others attempted to escape. No of the parking lot (#1) about 1890. The building hotel was considered a respectable business for a one was ever legally executed in South Pass City. was moved away from the creek to this location proper woman to operate. The local stagecoach County offices were moved to Green River in in 1911. The school closed about 1948 when the stop was at the front door and the office at times 1873, but use of this jail continued for several last families with children moved away. served as the town Post Office. Robert Todd years. By the 1880s it was abandoned until the Lincoln, General Phil Sheridan and many other front room was appropriated for use as a school 17. Cody Cabin. This small and hurriedly built notables stayed here. The Sherlock family quar- room. The alphabet is still visible on cabin was constructed in the late 1890s. ters and kitchen are accessed from the rear. above the front door. Archeological investigations done prior to restora- tion indicate that a married couple lived in this 25. Restaurant. Janet Sherlock Smith built the 30. Libby/Pest House. Harry Libby built this two cabin for a brief period of time. Exhibit installa- restaurant as an addition to the South Pass room home in the spring of 1899 after being tion is planned in the near future. Hotel in 1899. The front room became the fired by Barney Tibbals from the Carissa Mine. hotel’s new lobby with the dining room and Libby and his family left South Pass City in 18. Reniker Cabin. William Reniker, a Civil War kitchen to the rear. February 1900 and sold the cabin to Joe Blewett. veteran, lived in this cabin when not working his In 1901 the cabin again sold to J. J. Marrin and gold mine on Reniker Peak northwest of town.

Section 5 Anna Tibbals. Some evidence suggests that this He moved the cabin to this spot from another cabin may have been utilized as a Pest House or location. Penciled numbers used to properly “isolation hospital” during a small pox epidemic reassemble the cabin are still visible inside. in February 1901. Exhibit installation is planned in the near future. 31. Rock Cabin. The hack room of this cabin was 19. E. A. Slack Cabin. Esther Morris was the first built about 1867. The family who lived here sim- woman in the nation to hold political office. She ply threw their trash on the ground outside the served successfully as a justice of the peace in door. When the front room was added, the trash South Pass City in 1870. The five room cabin dump became their floor. Later, according to leg- where she lived with her second husband and end, the hack room was the first jail in South Pass sons was located about 50 feet east of this recon- City. There is no interior exhibit here. struction. E. A. Slack, Esther’s son published his newspaper the “South Pass News” and lived in 32. Masonic Lodge. This is a private reconstruc- this house beginning in June 1871. The original tion of the Freund Brothers gun shop, agents for building burned in December 1871 and Slack the Winchester 18-shot repeating rifle. The moved his press to Laramie, Wyoming where he Ancient Free and Accepted Masons #28, U.D. published the “Laramie Daily Independent.” The 26. Exchange Saloon & Card Room. Beginning Nebraska, now Wyoming Lodge #2, rented the original Gordon Hand Press, which survived the about 1873 the building was converted into the second story of the building for a meeting place. fire is located in the northwest corner of the front Exchange Saloon and operated as such, through The same organization (Lander, WY) reconstruct- room. It is on loan from the Univ. of Wyoming, the turn of the century. The lean-to next to the ed the building. building was added to the saloon as a card room American Heritage Center. Reprinted from Wyoming State Parks during the 1880s. 20. Blacksmith Shop. This 1915 shop contained a and Historic Sites brochure. forge and tools to repair wagons and horsedrawn 27. Livery Stable. This barn was built in the 1890s of logs salvaged from earlier structures. This part T Miner’s Delight equipment. When automobiles became common, 12 mi NE of Atlantic City the smith had to learn new skills and obtain new of town was the location of many stables which types of tools and parts. This building was built of catered to miners, investors and locals who want- From Atlantic City, a gravel road leads toward logs salvaged from the 1868 Ticknor Store located ed to buy or rent horses, wagons or stable their Lander, where in a little over two miles, a dirt on Price Street just south of Willow Creek. own animals. It was also the scene of clandestine road branches to the east. If you drive another activities; many whiskey bottles and at least one one and one-half miles, you will pass the Gold 21. Variety Theater. Constructed on the foundation gun was buried under the floor of this stable and Dollar Mine, and a little more than a mile of an 1860s store, this modern theater is used for later found in archaeological excavations. beyond, is the Miner’s Delight cemetery. Take a historic programs and speakers. left, go one quarter of a mile, and you will be on

306 Ultimate Wyoming Atlas and Travel Encyclopedia Main Street of Miners Delight. Founded in 1867 by Herman Nickerson and MARTHA JANE the miners believed that where Martha Jane friends, Miners Delight became a town when went, calamity followed. Thus the nickname by I

“color” was discovered in Spring Gulch. “CALAMITY JANE” CANARY which she would be known the remainder of NCLUDING Originally, the town was called Hamilton City. her life, was born. She had signed on for sever- al military expeditions as a bullwacker but was The name was changed to Miners Delight when Sorting the fact from the fiction when it comes fired when her gender was discovered. the mine by this name became successful. In its to Calamity Jane’s colorful life isn’t easy. She ultimately married Clinton Burk in El first year, the mine provided three hundred thou- Indeed, her autobiography written to raise Paso and gave birth to a daughter. In 1896, C sand dollars worth of gold. Since 1874, the mine money contains inaccuracies and, according to ASPER has been dewatered and reworked seven times, after returning to Deadwood, Burk departed some who knew her, complete falsehoods! town after embezzling money. Jane’s daughter S with the last being 1927. Martha Jane Canary was born in 1852 in OUTHCENTRAL Today, you can still see the standing head was taken from her and placed in a convent to , R Missouri. Her mother abandoned the family be reared by the sisters. frame, and near the mine amidst deep brush, is the soon after a younger child was born. The search IVERTON long row of miners’ shacks. “Calamity Jane” grew If Calamity Jane liked shooting and riding, for her had led the family to the gold fields of she loved whiskey even more. Her binges were up here. Orphaned at an early age, Martha Jane Virginia City, , where Martha Canary (Calamity) was quickly adopted, and her notorious, and she spent more than one night

Jane learned to shoot a rifle and ride a horse as , L new parents moved to Miners Delight during its in local jails for drunken, disorderly conduct. well as any man. Martha Jane and her sisters A Her alleged love affair with AND ANDER first year of existence. A woman from the East per- REA saw destitution after their father’s death, and suaded “Calamity Jane” to visit New York, which is another point on which historians disagree. she was forced to beg and use whatever she visited for a year. Martha returned educated Some say they were a couple; others say means necessary to feed her siblings. and conducted business in the dance hall above Calamity Jane’s imagination worked overtime in McAuley’s Store in Atlantic City. Miners Delight Although her claim to be a scout for that regard. Whichever the truth, when Calamity General Custer was never substantiated, Jane died in 1905, at just 52 years of age, her boasts the title of “Calamity Jane’s home town.” R

Martha Jane insists it was true. She moved on final wish to be buried next to Wild Bill in AWLINS T The Duncan through Wyoming and Colorado, where she Deadwood was fulfilled. Her final words were Traveling from Atlantic City, a gravel road winds up nursed miners infected with small pox. Some of addressed to her daughter, recorded in a letter. Mill Hill that levels off and heads SE. At the crest 1 mi S of town, a dirt road branches to the right where the Mary Ellen Mine sits. Within 1 mile of an elevation 7,200 feet. During the spring rains, T South Pass the turnoff, “The Duncan” comes into view. Main Street was deemed unsafe. From State Hwy 28, take the dirt Oregon In 1911, the first rich strike of ore was made, Today, five of the town’s eight structures Buttes Rd S from the summit of the first resulting in forty thousand dollars’ worth of ore remain. A two-story barn sits on the north side hill W of the Sweetwater bridge. Watch being removed in three years. In 1914, the opera- that was used to shelter relay horses for the Pony for Trail ruts and historic markers in tion ran into financial difficulty and closed. Thirty- Express. The Pacific Springs store stands intact 2.8 mi. Follow trail W to markers. two years later, new owners made improvements, without the false front, and now serves as a stor- This broad pass, the highest point on the trail is but only twelve tons of ore were processed that age house for a nearby ranch. at the summit of an almost imperceptible year, valued at a total of two thousand dollars. This area, which was once a celebration spot approach to the Continental Divide and was the The mine underwent another spurt of activi- on the Oregon Trail, marked the first camping key to the entire trail system. Every emigrant ty in 1956 when three thousand tons were spot for emigrants after crossing South Pass, wagon train and handcart company that went Section 5 shipped at twelve dollars per ton. During the which is seventy-four hundred feet high. westward rolled through this Pass. There was no height of its prosperity, “The Duncan” consisted Travelers typically celebrated the crossing and other way to go. No other path offered a depend- of several dozen cabins, a small store, and a then woke up to three miles of mud. able supply of grass and water plus an easy grade two-story dormitory. By 1918, the town consisted of only a post to and through the mountains. On crossing the office named Pacific. As you drive through Pacific Pass one pioneer woman noted that, “we have T Lewiston Springs, you can see railroad tracks that pass on forever taken leave of the waters running toward 12 mi E of The Duncan the edge of town. The tracks are used by U.S. the home of our childhood and youth…” Two- Lewiston, Wyoming is accessed by traveling Steel Corporation, and trains on this line haul iron and-a-half miles farther west the emigration south from Atlantic City up Mill Hill, passing ore from Atlantic City to the Union Pacific line. encountered Pacific Springs, the first water flow- The Duncan turnoff, and then heading eight miles east on a gravel road. To the side, you will spot a bronze monument on the banks of Rock Creek that tells the story of 13 Mormon emi- grants traveling to Utah in October of 1865 who froze to death during a single night and were buried in one grave. Four miles east of this marker there is fork to the left—this is Lewiston. The two-remaining buildings are the old store and the livery. Founded in 1879, Lewiston once had more than twenty-five buildings and four saloons in its heyday. The most famous mine was Bullion Shaft, and one-half mile south of town lies the Hidden Hand Mine, the Iron Duke Shaft, and the Good Hope Mine. T Fort Stambaugh On private property just S of Miner’s Delight Established in 1870 to protect miners, this camp was named after Lt. Charles B. Stambaugh who was killed by Indians just a month before the post opened. T Pacific Springs 12.5 mi SW of South Pass City Founded in 1853, Pacific Springs –once called the “Old Halter and Flick Ranch” –is commonly known as the muddiest spot on the Lander- Rawlins Stage Road as it sits on a swampy flat at Miner’s Delight was the childhood home of Calamity Jane. www.ultimatewyoming.com 307 ing westward. Stone monuments mark the Pass T South Pass ing plateau, with low ridges and hills on both and honor and Eliza Spalding, South Pass sides and a wide sage and grass-covered saddle the first white women to cross South Pass. between. Many emigrants commented that they South Pass was perhaps the most important land- Source: BLM brochure. scarcely noticed the ascent or the crossing. mark along the emigrant trails. It marked the end On July 12, 1846, made his T South Pass Overlook of the long ascent to the Continental Divide and way “up a very gentle ascent to the South Pass 4 mi SW of Sweetwater Bridge on State Hwy 28 the emigrants’ arrival at the frontier of the Oregon of the Rocky Mountains, or the dividing ridge This BLM interpretive site offers information country. It was also thought to be the halfway separating the waters of the Atlantic and the and a panoramic view of Pacific Springs, South point along the trail. Pacific. The ascent to the Pass is so gradual, that Pass and the Oregon Buttes. American Indian, South Pass dictated the location of the emi- but for our geographical knowledge . . . we mountain man, fur trade, Oregon, Mormon, grant trail, for only via its gradual ascent was should not have been conscious that we had California and Pony Express Trail involvement wagon travel over the Continental Divide practi- ascended to, and were standing upon the sum- with South Pass are all interpreted. cal for large-scale emigration. South Pass is the mit of the Rocky Mountains-the backbone . . . of Source: BLM brochure. wide, flat summit of a long and gradually ascend- the North American Continent.” T Willie Handcart FARO “There are many esoteric methods of staking Company Marker bets, but they add little to the game and tend At Rock Creek on the Lewiston rd about 8 mi to confuse the inexperienced, so they are omit- SE of Atlantic City. Access via dirt roads. Make All Wyoming Area Codes are 307 The most popular game in the Wild West. It was ted here.” local inquiry for directions and road conditions. also one of the wildest games played in the saloons of the frontier. Saloons that offered One can imagine betting on two or four cards A mass grave and plaque commemorate the fate Faro posted signs that read: “Buck the Tiger”, at a time, in a manner similar to Roulette. of the Willie Handcart Company. Poorly supplied Faro Played Here. and traveling far too late in the season, the com- In the game of Faro, the dealer is also the After the initial bets are placed, the card deck is pany was trapped by a winter storm as it banker. During the game, his personal fortune shuffled, and then placed face up inside a shoe. approached South Pass in mid-October 1856. Before help arrived from Salt Lake City, about 67 is at risk. One notorious episode in the histo- The first top card is called the “soda”, and nei- ry of Faro is the story of Black Jake. Black Jake of the 404-member party had starved or frozen to ther wins nor loses. After play starts, the soda is death. In terms of numbers of deaths, the com- owned a Faro table in Virginia City, Nevada in discarded next to the betting board. the 1860s. According to legend, he shot him- bined Willie and Martin handcart companies dis- self after losing $70,000 in one night. The For 25 successive turns, the prior top card is asters were the greatest ever suffered by any group traveling the trail. next owner of the table lost his personal for- discarded onto the soda pile. The next top card Source: BLM brochure. tune in one night. He, too, shot himself. is a loser, and is discarded between the shoe Considered bad luck, the table was stored and the soda. The next top card is a winner; it H Meadows in the Sage until the 1890s when the Delta Saloon is left on the deck. At South Pass Rest Area on State Hwy 28 just S brought it out of retirement and turned it into of South Pass City a Blackjack table. As the story goes, a drunken On successive turns, the prior winner card is discarded onto the soda pile. With spring, the meadow grasses and broad - gold miner, stinging from heavy losses at a leafed plants, called forbs, emerge green and neighboring saloon entered the Delta. He pro- Whenever the loser and winner cards are the succulent. Antelope, mule deer, and elk winter- ceeded to wager his last possession, a gold same denomination for a turn, this is declared ing south and west of here return each spring ring, for $5. He won, and went on to win a “split”. The dealer takes half of all bets staked to the green grass and forb meadows found in $86,000, a gold mine, and some horses. He for or against that denomination; this provides the sagebrush desert and stream bottoms near wiped out the dealer’s fortune. The dealer, as the house edge in a fair game. the base of the Wind River Mountains. you would expect, shot himself. The table was These small green plants provide life-giving retired and never used again. Thinking of play- After each turn, the dealer settles any bets on nutrients crucial to the last developmental Section 5 ing Faro? Might want to unload your pistol if the winning and losing cards. All other bets stages of the embryo. Once born, the health you’re thinking of dealing. are unaffected, and remain in place for the and survival of the fawn or calf depends on the next turn. amount and quality of milk provided by the The Rules of Faro mother, which in turn depends on her intake of Between turns, a player may modify any bet by this succulent green feed. The following rules are paraphrased from “The declaring that he wants to “bar” a given bet for Board Game Book”: Forbs and grasses also provide the moist one turn. conditions necessary for insect production. Insect Players: Any number. A player may “halve” a bet by telling the deal- production in the sagebrush and meadows are highest in May and June. Almost all bird life Pieces: Gaming chips, 1 standard deck er; such a declaration stays active until revoked by the player. requires insect food to produce eggs and young. of 52 playing cards The newly hatched birds must consume large amounts of insects to acquire enough protein Aim: Gambling game of pure chance A player may also add or remove a copper from any bet. and calcium for their rapid growth. Rules: Shrubs, such as sagebrush, provide fall and After each turn, winning and losing bets are set- winter feed as well as yearlong cover for wildlife The dealer is the banker, and sets the mini- tled, and new bets can be made for the next in this country. And so, it is the grass and forb mum and maximum bet amounts. The maxi- turn. meadows scattered throughout the sagebrush mum bet limits refer to the wager amount for lands that are an important part of that special plain bets, and to the number of times a bet When the deck is exhausted, a new deal is formula helping to keep Wyoming’s wildlands may be “parleyed”. started, and play proceeds. abundant with wildlife. Players place bets on a cloth-covered board The last card in the deck is called the “hock”, H The Carissa Gold Mine containing the 13 card denominations (Ace, 2 and is not used. Just N of South Pass City thru 10, Jack, Queen, and King) displayed for a When there are only 3 cards left in the deck Soldiers from Fort Bridger discovered gold in single suit (usually spades). (one more turn), players may Call the Last Willow Creek in 1865. By 1867 the gold All bets are even-money bets; a bet may be Turn by guessing the order that the 3 source was located and claimed in the gulch east of this sign. Development of the once declared against the given denomination by denominations will appear. If the 3 cards are famous Carissa Mine, visible across the gulch, “coppering” it. different, and the player guesses correctly, he wins 4 times the bet. If 2 of the three began immediately. Various special bets are allowed. According to cards have the same denomination, he wins Exaggerated stories of gold strikes and the R.C. Bell: twice the bet. Carissa’s wealth spread across the West during the winter of 1867-1868. The following spring

308 Ultimate Wyoming Atlas and Travel Encyclopedia fitted with new furniture.” The dining room was constantly supplied with game and all other available luxuries. I

Janet Sherlock began operating the hotel in NCLUDING 1873 to support herself and her children after the death of her husband. Hotels were seen as extensions of the home and, therefore, one of the few businesses socially acceptable for a C

woman to own. ASPER Local businessmen who convinced her to S

buy the hotel were concerned for more than OUTHCENTRAL

her welfare. They were worried the dubious , R

sanitation of the filthy establishments run by IVERTON competitors might scare away prospective min- ing investors. The hotel was operated by the Sherlock- Smith family from 1873 to the mid-1920s , L A NE AND ANDER

when it closed. It was used as a private resi- REA dence until the 1960s. This building was dis- mantled to replace rotted timbers and then safely reconstructed by the State of Wyoming using original material where possible. R

South Pass Hotel AWLINS This hotel was purchased by Janet Sherlock- Smith in the early 1870s and was operated by her and her family through the 1940s. It is the only remaining hotel of five that was in town The South Pass during the early boom years. At one time the Post Office for South Pass City was located in the hotel and the mail slot is visible in the thousands of people rushed to this area hopin’ women the right to vote. eastern most front door. This hotel also served to ‘strike it rich.” For eight months in 1870, Esther Morris as a stage stop. The miners established South Pass City, now served as South Pass City’s justice of the peace, During the late 1890s and early 1900s the a Wyoming State Historic Site, in the valley one making her the nation’s first woman judge. After family made its residence in the rooms on the third mile south of this spot. It is the second her death in 1901, some historians claimed that bottom floor of the hotel. The beds, dressers oldest town in Wyoming. Mrs. Morris had helped Bright write the suffrage and washstands in these rooms are original to The Carissa produced an estimated 60,000- bill. Believing this theory, the Historical the hotel during this period. The portraits on the 180,000 ounces of gold. Landmarks Commission dedicated the adjacent wall in this room are portraits of Janet’s parents, Section 5 Please note: The Carissa Mine is private marker in 1939 on the former location of the Peter and Janet McOmie. property. NO TRESPASSING. Morris family’s five room cabin. However, recent studies indicate that Bright H The Exchange Saloon was the only author of the suffrage bill, In South Pass City although he may have received some urging This building was constructed in 1869 as The from his wife Julia and some help from Exchange Bank. J.W. Hiff owned the bank and it Edward Lee, Secretary of the Territory. Morris operated until the fall of 1870. After 1870 it probably held court in the county building near was operated as The Exchange Saloon and the center of town. continued to operate it as a saloon and card- Today, Esther Morris is recognized as the room untill the mid 1900s. , nation’s first woman justice of the peace. The Calamity Jane, and Wild Bill Hickok frequented monument and the nearby 1870 period cabin this establishment. honor Mrs. Morris, who exemplified the spirit of frontier women. H Butch Cassidy In South Pass City H South Pass City Interpretive Plaques In 1901 or 1902 “I was probably 7 or 8 South Pass City years old…I remember Butch Cassidy coming through the town, and he was quite a drinker South Pass Hotel Rooms and he’d get pretty well oiled down there and he’d be down to the bar…he’d wind up over Only one of the upstairs rooms was provided right across from the Sherlock store where my with heat. Guests in other rooms used several dad had that bar leased…why, us kids would go blankets and probably shared their beds with strangers who, like themselves, may not have down there and all to get nickels and dimes bathed in many days. In winter, they may and silver dollars even and we’d holler ‘Hello have awakened in the morning to find ice on Uncle Butch’ and he’d pitch them out in the dirt their blankets. and us kids would just scramble to get them…” The holes above the doors permitted air cir- —Oral interview with William Carr 1981 culation between the rooms but did not help H Esther Morris keep the rooms warm. On grounds of South Pass City Historical Site None of the rooms were supplied with adjacent to Esther Morris Cabin plumbing. To wash, guests could take a sponge bath from the basins on the wash stands. They Controversy exists concerning Esther Morris and had to brave the cold winds and use the out- woman suffrage. In 1869, the legislature passed The South Pass Hotel house behind the hotel or use the chamber and Governor Campbell signed a woman suf- This hotel opened in 1868 as the Idaho House. pots beneath the beds. The unpleasant daily frage bill authored by William Bright, a South It advertised itself as “the only first class house task of cleaning the pots often fell to one of the Pass City resident. As a result, Wyoming in the city with commodious rooms comfortably girls in the proprietor’s family. became the first territory or state to allow www.ultimatewyoming.com 309 Emmett earned about $3.00 per day, work- newpapers for a decade, but in 1842 Fremont ing as a laborer in the Carissa Mine, while he created enthusiasm for South Pass by explaining paid about $7.50 per month for rent. The that a traveler could go through it without any Connell family purchased supplies in the Smith- “toilsome ascents”. Sherlock Store and probably supplemented As knowledge of South Pass became wide- their food supply with wild game that could be spread, a great western migration commenced. hunted in the area. Thousands of Mormons, and future Oregonians and Californians, would cut a wide swath along Food Costs the route in the next twenty years. 50 lbs. flour $1.75 2 lbs. butter .70 cents H The Fur Trade 1 lbs. coffee .20 cents At South Pass Rest Area on Hwy 28 just S of 31/2 lbs. bacon .60 cents South Pass City 30 lbs. potatoes .75 cents The demand for beaver pelts in the early 1800s 4 1/2 lbs. cheese .99 cents led to the exploration and eventual settlement The Saloon 1 can tomatoes .15 cents of the American West. South Pass was part of a Saloons were common gathering places for 1 can lobster .40 cents major thoroughfare through the Rockies and its miners in Central and Northern Rocky Mountain 1 gal syrup $1.00 discovery is significant to the era known as the mining camps. Men could catch up on news of All Wyoming Area Codes are 307 fur trade. the latest gold or silver strikes, discuss politics, Wood was the primary source of heat and South Pass was first crossed by white men or talk about the results of the latest champi- cooking fuel and cost about $4.00 per cord. in 1812. The Astorians, a small party of onship boxing match. In many instances, Archeological evidence also suggests that coal trappers led by Robert saloons in the mining camps were also used for was used for heating and cooking, and proba- Stuart, used it as they traveled east with dis- polling places, Sunday sermons, courtrooms, bly obtained from coal mines in the Rock patches for company owner, John Jacob Astor. and town meetings. Springs area. Even though Stuart noted South Pass in his Bitter cold and large amounts of snowfall dur- diary and word of his journey was printed in a ing the winter months in the Central and Missouri newspaper, it would be another Northern Rocky Mountains kept mining to a mini- decade before white men “rediscovered” it. mum. A feeling of isolation was prevalent in remote mining camps. This feeling was worse in For Jedediah Smith and other mountain the winter, due to sporadic mail and supply deliv- men working for fur entrepreneur William eries, as well as the difficulty involved in traveling Ashley in the winter of 1823-24, the rugged long distances between towns. One winter resi- in front of you was a barrier dent wrote, “Everything is dead here…You can- between them and the beaver-rich Green River not imagine the ennui I endure.” Another wrote, Valley further west. Failing to negotiate these “genius is taxed to provide amusement to pass mountains through further north, the long winter evenings….” Saloons helped pro- Smith and his men finally reached the Green vide this badly needed amusement in the form River by traversing the southern end of the of gambling, drinking and camaraderie; at least range at this gradual incline. Traveling west with for the male portion of the population. supplies in 1825, Ashley initiated the Rendezvous, an annual event lasting until Tibbals Cabin approximately 1840 when the demand for beaver played out. H On Top of the World H South Pass At South Pass Rest Area on Hwy 28 just S of At South Pass Rest Area on Hwy 28 just S of Section 5 South Pass City South Pass City From where you’re standing South Pass doesn’t The South Pass, in which you are now located, look all that remarkable. But compared to the is perhaps the most significant transportation rugged Wind River Mountains, it can easily be gateway through the Rocky Mountains. Indians, recognized as a type of gateway. mountain men, Oregon Trail emigrants, Pony Nevertheless, crossing the Continental Express riders, and miners all recognized the Divide into “Oregon Country” was a task for all value of this passageway straddling the westward-bound travelers, and many described Continental Divide. Bounded by the Wind River their feelings about the event. In 1852 Lucy Range on the north and the Antelope Hills on Rutledge Cooke, a young woman with the south, the pass offered overland travelers a Faro ”California Fever” wrote: broad, relatively level corridor between the Faro is thought to have developed in France “…This morn we arrived at the South Pass Atlantic and Pacific watersheds. in the 17th Century. Throughout the 1800s, after which all water we see will be running to Mining plays a fundamental role in the his- faro was an extremely popular game in the the Pacific. So we are now on the other side of tory of the South Pass region. Gold may have United States. One reporter called faro, “our the world…” been discovered as early as 1842, but gold national card game.” Faro is a pure gambling H South Pass fever did not strike until 1867 when a sample game, with no skill involved. The player places a At South Pass Rest Area on State Hwy 28, just of South Pass ore arrived in Salt Lake City. News bet on a card or cards to win, or places a cop- S of South Pass City of the discovery spread swiftly and hordes of per token on a card or cards to lose. Faro’s pop- expectant millionaires descended on the new Even after the rediscovery of South Pass in ularity started to dwindle after 1900, and by the towns of South Pass City, Atlantic City, and 1824, it was years before the route was used 1940s, the game could scarcely be found. Miner’s Delight. The boom played out quickly. extensively. Fur trapper/trader William Sublette The easily obtained placer gold was rapidly brought a small caravan of wagons to South Tibbals Cabin exhausted and miners began leaving the area in Pass in 1828. While his party did not take wag- Barney Tibbals bought this cabin when he the early 1870s. ons over the pass, they demonstrated the feasi- moved to South Pass City to manage the Despite the brief duration of the boom, min- bility of using them. Carissa Gold Mine in 1896. After he married ing activity did not cease. In 1884, an enterpris- Captain took the first Anna Smith they moved into the managers ing Frenchman named Emile Granier began wagons over South Pass in 1832. But it was quarters at the mine, and rented this cabin. organizing the construction of a hydraulic gold U.S. Government explorer, Lt. John Charles Emmett and Katie Connell rented this cabin mining system which employed many local resi- Fremont, who was responsible for publicizing from 1899 to aboout 1906. The first three of dents over a ten year period. The Fisher Dredge the South Pass route. Scattered references to an their six children were born while the Connells Company recovered considerable gold ore from lived at South Pass City. easy passage over the Rockies had appeared in

310 Ultimate Wyoming Atlas and Travel Encyclopedia the bed of Rock Creek during the 1930s. More thousand people and thousands of domestic recently, the United States Steel iron ore mine animals passed this way in 1859 and for thirty operated near Atlantic City from the early 1960s years thereafter it was used heavily, setting the I until 1983. Hard rock mines also reopen peri- destiny of an empire. These wagon tracks and NCLUDING odically and some are presently operating. Until lonely graves for many miles beyond, a great the next boom arrives, travelers can experience landmark of history, have been recognized for the flavor of a Rocky Mountain mining town by preservation by: visiting nearby South Pass City, which has been U.S. Department of the Interior, Bureau of C

restored by the State of Wyoming. Land Management, Sublette County Historical ASPER Society. H The Corridor West S This trail has been marked at all accessible OUTHCENTRAL

At South Pass Rest Area on State Hwy 28 just S points with brass caps. , R of South Pass City IVERTON The trail over South Pass is a transportation cor- H Willie’s Handcart Company ridor which served many purposes. In addition 8 mi S of Atlantic City on the E bank of Rock Creek to being the route to Oregon and California, it Captain James G. Willie’s Handcart Company of was used by Mormon pioneers and by the Mormon emigrants on the way to Utah, greatly , L A NE AND ANDER

Pony express. exhausted by the deep snows of an early winter REA A great exodus to the Salt Lake Valley in and suffering from lack of food and clothing, had 1847 was only the beginning of Mormon emi- assembled here for reorganization by relief par- grant travel along the Oregon Trail. About ties from Utah, about the end of October, 1856. 68,000 took the Utah branch of the trail from Thirteen persons were frozen to death during a

1847 until 1869 when the completion of the single night and were buried here in one grave. R

Union Pacific Railroad ushered in a new phase Two others died the next day and were buried AWLINS of overland travel. The community of Zion at nearby. Of the company of 404 persons, 77 Salt Lake offered economic opportunity as well perished before help arrived. The survivors Parting of the Ways Monument as religious freedom. reached Salt Lake City November 9, 1856, For a brief eighteen months beginning in passed this point and continued nine and one April, 1860, eighty young men carried the H Willie’s Handcart Gravestone half miles west southwest from here to a place nation’s mail on horseback for 1600 miles from 8 mi S of Atlantic City on the E bank of Rock destined to become prominent in Oregon Trail St. Joseph, Missouri to Sacramento, California. Creek history-the starting point of the Sublette Cut-off. Riding day and night-regardless of weather - on In memory of those members of the Willie There, instead of following the regular the fastest horses available, Pony Express riders Handcart Co. whose journey started too late Oregon Trail route southwest to Fort Bridger, maintained a vital communication link between and ended too early and were buried here in a then northwest to reach the Bear river below east and west at the beginning of the Civil War. circular grave October 24 & 25, 1856. present day Cokeville, Wyoming, this wagon The completion of the trascontinental telegraph train pioneered a new route. Either Hitchcock or William James, 46 line in October, 1861 marked the end of the Greenwood, it is uncertain which, made the Bodil Mortinsen, 9 Pony Express. Though the owners of the Express decision to lead the wagons due west, in effect Elizabeth Bailey, 52 Section 5 lost more than a million dollars, the venture cap- along one side of a triangle. Nils Anderson, 41 tured the imagination of the entire world. It was the Gold Rush year of 1849 that James Kirkwood, 11 brought this “Parting of the Ways” into promi- Ole Madsen, 41 H The Sweetwater Mining Region nence. Of the estimated 30,000 Forty-niners Samuel Gadd, 10 State Hwy 28 at turnout to South Pass City probably 20,000 travelled the Greenwood Cut- James Gibb, 67 With the discovery of gold near Willow Creek off which, due to an error in the 1849 Joseph Lars Wendin, 60 in 1867, thousands of people rushed into this E. Ware guide book, became known as the Chesterton Gilman, 66 region, mined the streams and hills, and built Sublette Cut-off. Anne Olsen, 46 some of the territory’s first towns—South Pass In the ensuing years further refinements of Thomas Gurldstone, 62 City, Atlantic City, and Miner’s Delight. Even the Trail route were made. In 1852 the Kinney Ella Nilson, 22 though 3000 people lived in the area and and Slate Creek Cut-offs diverted trains from por- William Groves, 22 more than 30 mines were operating by 1869, tions of the Sublette Cut-off, but until the covered Jens Nilson, 6 a bust soon occurred, and the towns dwindled wagon period ended, the Sublette Cut-off in size. Since then, three more booms have remained a popular direct route, and this “Parting sustained the area’s mining tradition and 59 No Services of the Ways” was the place for crucial decisions. sense of community. A quartzite post inscribed Fort Bridger S. The region’s history still survives today. H “Parting of the Ways” Cut-off and a Bureau of Land Management Besides several sites in and around Atlantic City, S of Sublette County line on U.S. Hwy 28 information panel now mark the historic “Parting the South Pass City State Historic Site contains This marks a fork in the trail. Right to Oregon, of he Ways” site. 24 historic structures and dozens of exhibits. left to Utah and California. Located just two miles along the adjacent dirt H The Parting of the Ways road, the site is open from May 15 to October 1812, Robert Stuart and east bound Astorians S of Sublette County line on U.S. Hwy 28 15 and is free of charge. used South Pass Gateway. Trail ruts at this site were mistakenly identified as the Parting-of -the-Ways where emigrant par- H Oregon Trail-Lander Cutoff- 1824, Eleven westbound Ashley-Henry men led by Jedediah Smith and Thomas Fitzpatrick. ties separated on their journeys to Oregon, South Pass Area California, or Utah. Just S of South Pass City turnoff on Hwy 28 1832, N. Wyeth and Capt. B.L.E. Bonneville parties. The actual Parting-of-the-Ways is approximate- This is an old trail used by the Indians and the ly 10 miles west of this spot. Where you are trappers of the fur period, a short cut to the 1836, Missionaries M. Whitman and H.H. standing now is part of the main Oregon Trail Snake River country. It was proposed an emi- Spalding and wives. over which 350,000 - 500,000 people passed grant road by mountain man John Hockaday in 1841, Bartleson-Bidwell party. on their way West between 1844 and 1869. 1854. No emigrant trails crossed the mountains Look closely at the ground between the north of here. It was improved as a wagon road 1852, Peak year, estimated 40,000 emigrants pullout fence and the monuments. The uneven for the government by F. W. Lander, in 1859 to “ridges” in the ground are trail ruts made by the avoid dry wastes of the roads to the south and H The Parting of the Ways passage of iron-wheeled freight wagons and to provide more water, wood and forage. Here S of Sublette County line on U.S. Hwy 28 stagecoaches on a road that connected south it commenced the crossing of the south end of In July 1844 the California bound Stevens- Pass with the Union Pacific Railroad in Green the Wind River Mountains and the Continental Townsend-Murphy wagon train, guided by Isaac River, southwest of this spot. The freight road Divide and on to the Pacific Northwest. Thirteen Hitchcock and 81-year old Caleb Greenwood, was used from about 1870 to 1900 - and the www.ultimatewyoming.com 311 resulting ruts caused the confusion later with Mexican Territory, and Louisiana Purchase had a On December 14, 1862, Tribbett died of an the actual Parting-of-the-Ways west of here. common boundary. The large landmark, just to appendicitis. His burial was described by Pvt. Enjoy and appreciate your trail resources, the south of where you are standing, is Pacific Anthony Barleon in a letter written to Bennett’s but remember that they are very fragile. Please Butte. The great height and mass of the butte, sister, Arviley, at home in Athens county, Ohio. ensure that your visit doesn’t result in any dis- combined with a ridge to the north paralleling “We made a coffin of such lumber that we turbance to the Trail. the emigrant trails, helps to create a visual had which of course were rough boards but we channel through which travelers migrated on planed them off as smooth as we could. We H South Pass their way through South Pass. dressed him up in his best clothes which were On State Hwy 28 about 6 mi SW of the South new and clean, laid a blanket around him, and Pass Rest Area H South Pass we tucked a blanket around the coffin which John Jacob Astor’s ‘Astorians” are often given At South Pass on the Oregon Trail made it look a little better… When the time credit for the discovery of the “South Pass’ ‘ South Pass was discovered in 1812 by a small arrived for his burial he was bore off by the route to western territories. Astor sent his party of Astorians led by Robert Stuart as they arms of 6 of his former associates accompa- “Astorians” by sea and land in 1810 to establish traveled east with dispatches for John Jacob nied by an escort of six men who performed the Pacific Fur Company at the mouth of the Astor. It was “rediscovered” in 1824 by a party the usual military escort and ceremony. When Columbia River. He intended to break the led by Jedediah Smith as they searched for a we arrived at the grave we put the coffin in British fur monopoly in the Pacific Northwest winter crossing through the Wind River Mountain and the escort fired three rounds over his and bring American territory under American Range. William Sublette led a small caravan of grave. So he was buried with all the military

All Wyoming Area Codes are 307 control. The overland party, led by Wilson Price wagons to South Pass in 1828. While the party honors of a soldier.” Hunt, crossed northern Wyoming in July of did not take the wagons over the pass, they In July, 1863, four newly recruited companies 1811. Robert Stuart, a partner in the company, proved that wagon travel was possible. were consolidated with the old battalion to form traveled with others by sea. Stuart later returned Captain Benjamin Bonneville took the first a new regiment, designated the Eleventh Ohio overland to New York with dispatches for Astor. wagons over South Pass into the Green River Volunteer Cavalry, which continued to serve on It was this journey in October of 1812 which Basin in 1832. But it was Lt. John Charles the frontier until the last companies were mus- pioneered the route across this natural pass Fremont who would be credited with widely tered out on July 14, 1866. By Civil War stan- over the continental divide, later to become publicizing the route over South Pass as a result dards casualties in this regiment were light. Three known as South Pass. of his expedition in 1842. Scattered references officers and fifteen men died as a result of The discovery of South Pass, an important to the easy passage over the Rocky Mountains actions against Indians; one officer and fifty-eight segment of the Oregon- California emigrant had appeared in newspapers for a decade, but men, like Bennett Tribbett, died of natural causes. trails, hastened one of the greatest mass emi- Fremont ignited enthusiasm for South Pass by grations in the annals of American history. explaining that a traveler could go through the H Johnny Williams Restless Americans from all walks of life moved pass without any “toilsome ascents.” On private land in Sweetwater County west, crossing this pass, seeking a better life in With the discovery of South Pass, the great This is the probable gravesite of ten-year-old a new land. Among them were Mormons seek- western migration began. Thousands of Johnny Williams, who died on or about June ing freedom from religious, social and economic Mormons, future Oregonians and Californians 20, 1851. intolerance and aggression. For others, the lure would use the trail in the following years. Johnny was riding in the rear of the baggage was land available for the taking. The discovery wagon when the oxen took fright and ran. of gold in California in 1848, attracted bands of H Pacific Springs Johnny went to the front of the wagon and feverish fortune seekers. An estimated 350,000 From State Hwy 28 take Oregon Buttes rd 4 mi clung to the driver but was thrown out; the people passed this way between 1841 and W of South Pass to the Oregon Trail. Travel wheels of the wagon ran over his head. about 1 mi S on the Trail 1866 on their way to western territories. His mother wrote this in a letter to Johnny’s For many emigrants, the first tangible evidence grandmother: “We buried him there by the Chronology that they had crossed South Pass was Pacific roadside, by the right side of the road, about 1812 Discovery of South Pass by Robert Stuart Springs, “the fountain source of the Pacific one-half mile before we crossed the Fononelle.

Section 5 and his group of Astorians streams,” according to pioneer Joseph We had his grave covered with stones to pro- Goldsborough Bruff. The broad expanse of the tect it from wild animals and a board with his 1826 First crossing of the pass by a wheeled pass from Pacific Springs was proof that the name and age and if any of our friends came vehicle journey to the Pacific coast was geographically through I wish they would find his grave and if half over. But the event was only a slight conso- it needs, repair it.” 1832 First wagon train crossing, led by Army lation, the road ahead was still long and hard. Captain B. L. E. Bonneville The springs was a major camping spot along H Plume Rocks 1836 Narcissa P. Whitman and Eliza R. Spalding, the trail, providing good water and grazing. A 2.5 mi W of State Hwy 28 and the False Parting of the Ways Monument on the Oregon-Mormon first white women to cross South Pass number of pioneers also died here, most hav- ing succumbed to cholera contracted elsewhere Trail 1843 Beginning of the great migration along the trail. Several graves are known in the In the days before man-made landmarks domi- vicinity of Pacific Springs. nated the landscape, natural features such as 1847 First wave of Mormon emigration In the 1860’s, a stagecoach and Pony Plume Rocks served as travelers signposts. J. 1849-1851 Peak period of emigration to the Express station was located at the springs prob- Goldsborough Bruff noted in his journal on American West ably in the areas of the Halter and Flick Ranch. August 3, 1849, “… on right about 300 yards Some sources indicate that the station was distant some low clay bluffs, of a dark dingy red 1860 The Pony Express used this route for its burned by Indians in 1862. The exact location hue, and singularily plume-formed projections brief nineteen month existence of the station is unknown. on top from the effects of the elements.” Pacific Springs became an important water While topographical features like Oregon H Oregon Buttes source for early livestock operators and they Buttes served as navigational points on the hori- S of South Pass on the Oregon Trail remain so today. The springs lie on private zon, minor features such as Plume Rocks To the south stand the Oregon Buttes, a major property owned by John Hay. The Hay family served to keep emigrant travelerrs more pre- trail landmark. The name is significant because has been involved in ranching in southwest- cisely on course. They were especially critical in the Buttes were roughly the beginning of the ern Wyoming for five generations dating to situations where it was not possible to sight Oregon Territory and also helped keep emi- the 1870s. between two navigational points on the horizon grants encouraged, even though there were still both ahead of and behind the travelers. hundreds of miles of rough going ahead. Today, H Bennett Tribbett the Oregon Buttes are an Area of Critical Located on private land in Fremont County H Parting-of-the-Ways Environmental Concern because of their cultural along the Oregon Trail 12 mi W of the False Parting of the Ways significance and important wildlife values. Private Bennett Tribbett was a nineteen-year-old Monument on the Oregon-Mormon Trail About twelve miles to the southwest of soldier stationed here at Three Crossings This point on the trail is called the Parting-of- Oregon Buttes is the Tri- territory site. This site is Station. He was a member of Company B of the-Ways. The trail to the right is the Sublette the location where the Oregon Territory, the First Battalion, Sixth Ohio Volunteer Cavalry. or Greenwood Cutoff and to the left is the

312 Ultimate Wyoming Atlas and Travel Encyclopedia SCENIC DRIVES Wild Horse Viewing in I Southcentral Wyoming NCLUDING General Information The Rawlins BLM Field Office is home to approx- imately 1,650 wild horses, the largest population of wild, free roaming horses outside of Nevada. C ASPER While the horses generally inhabit the more remote and isolated portions of the field office, S OUTHCENTRAL

there is one area where you can see wild horses , R without leaving your vehicle. You need to keep in IVERTON mind, however, that there is no guarantee you will observe wild horses on any given day. Even if you don’t see any horses, your trip won’t be in

vain. You will pass through a variety of land- , L A

scapes and habitat types and may encounter a AND ANDER REA variety of wildlife species and observe several of the uses of the public land. The Land and Its Uses The town of Rawlins is in the North Platte River drainage, part of the sys- R tem. Eight miles north of Rawlins, you will cross AWLINS the Continental Divide, but instead of crossing into the Pacific drainage, you will enter the Great Divide Basin—a large, high desert basin from which no water flows to either ocean’s drainage. The Red Desert lies within this basin. Average annual precipitation in the basin ranges from six The trail ruts of the pioneers are still clearly visible throughout much of southcentral Wyoming. to nine inches. Nevertheless, the basin contains several natural playa lake systems that provide important habitat for migratory waterfowl and a main route of the Oregon, Mormon and T Little Snake River myriad of other wildlife. California Trails. The Sublette Cutoff was Valley Museum The viewing route will pass both historic and opened in 1844 because it saved 46 miles In Savery. 383-7262 current signs of the area’s considerable natural gas over the main route. It did require a 50 mile The museum is housed in the former Savery and uranium resources. In addition, rural agricul- waterless crossing of the desert and therefore School building. Exhibits include historical cloth- ture is an important use of the area—Wyoming Section 5 was not popular until the gold rush period. The ing, furniture, farm implements and books, as well isn’t called the Cowboy State without reason! name tells the story, people who traveled a as the Dr. Noyes Room and the John Terrill Room. Livestock grazing on the public land is managed thousand miles together separated at this There are restored historical buildings on the by the BLM through the issuance of grazing per- point. They did not know if they would ever grounds including the , Strobridge- mits. Depending on the time of year, you may see each other again. It was a place of great Groshart-Hays house, Blair Cabin, and Dutch Joe encounter either sheep or cattle and the people who tend them. sorrow. It was also a place of great decision—to School. Open Memorial Day through Labor Day, You will probably see more pronghorn ante- cross the desert and save miles or to favor Wednesday through Saturday, 11 a.m.-5 p.m. their livestock. About two-thirds of the emi- lope than wild horses along the viewing route grants chose the main route through Fort T Gaddis Matthews House since there are more pronghorn in Wyoming than Bridger instead of the Sublette Cutoff. This old cabin was once a gathering place for there are people. As a result of successful regula- Butch Cassidy and his cohorts. tion of hunting by the Wyoming Game and Fish Department and careful use of the habitat by all 60 H Jim Baker’s Trading Post users, the pronghorn antelope has returned from At the Little Snake River Museum in Savery its near extinction at the turn of the century to its Baggs present level of abundance. During the fall, you Pop. 348, Elev. 6,245 This cabin was erected by Jim Baker, famous mountain man, plainsman, hunter, trapper, will probably encounter many hunters in pursuit Situated on a scenic bend of the Little Snake guide, scout, and Indian fighter on the Little of pronghorn or other big game. Small animals River, this little pastoral town was named for Snake River in Carbon County, Wyoming, in are also abundant in the area. You might George and Maggie Baggs, major ranchers in the 1873. Acquired by the State of Wyoming in encounter a coyote hunting for its next meal of area. It’s peaceful feel today belies its infamous 1917 and transported to Cheyenne, Wyoming, prairie dog, ground squirrel, or rabbit. The small past. Once a gathering place for outlaws in the to be preserved as a lasting memorial to this birds which fly up in front of your car are horned 1880s and 90s, its isolation made it the perfect brave pioneer citizen. larks. You may also see sage grouse and a variety place to celebrate the latest heist. A rock fortress of raptors such as hawks and eagles. But it is also nearby was their hideout once the party was over. H Jim Baker possible that you may complete your entire trip The Gaddis Matthews House, a refuge cabin built At the Baker Cemetery west of Savery without seeing another living being. by Butch Cassidy’s gang, still stands here. Here lies Jim Baker Points Along the Route The viewing route begins 14 miles north of Born in Illinois Dec. 19, 1819 Dixon Rawlins at the intersection of U.S.Highway 287 Pop. 79, Elev. 6,245 Died May 15, 1898 and Carbon County Road 63 and ends at Jeffrey Robert Dixon, for whom this town was named, One of the oldest Pioneers City. It’s total length is 69 miles. About midway was a long-lived trapper. He hoped to live long of the Rocky Mountains. through the route, you can choose to travel on to enough to see a railroad train cross the Laramie Jeffrey City and subsequently Lander, Riverton, Plains, but he died in an Arapaho raid the year Contemporary of ‘Kit” Carson, Jim Bridger, Casper, or Rawlins, or you can turn south and before the Union Pacific arrived. Freemont, and the rest who helped to civilize join I-80 at Wamsutter. It is only a few miles this district. A government scout, guide, and more from Rawlins to Lander via the viewing Savery Indian fighter. His memory should be respected route than it is via U.S. Highway 287, but it will Once the stomping ground of mountain man Jim forever by those who live in all this region, the take longer due to the road. The route is paved Baker, this tiny town is near his gravesite. fighting land of the Indian tribes. for the first 30 miles and the rest is graveled. www.ultimatewyoming.com 313 Consider purchasing the Bairoil 1:100,000 scale the Great Divide Basin. On a clear day, you can Some of the special features of this area land ownership status map obtainable at any see the Oregon Buttes on the historic Oregon include the Seminoe, Pathfinder, and Alcova Wyoming BLM office for $4.00. The map shows Trail (50 miles WNW), Continental Peak to the Reservoirs, the North Platte River, and fishing at all but the first three miles of the route and con- right of the buttes (50 Miles WNW), and the the Miracle Mile, Seminoe State Park, and the tains other information about the area. The yel- Wind River Range (70 miles NW). These features Seminoe, Pedro, and Haystack mountain ranges. low areas on the map show BLM-managed public are situated at the western and northern edges of The US Bureau of Reclamation manages the reser- land. The white and blue areas are private or the Great Divide Basin along the Continental voirs, dams and campgrounds along the Miracle state-owned lands. If you wish to leave the desig- Divide. Turn right to continue the tour to Jeffrey Mile and the banks of the reservoirs, except at nated route, be sure to respect private property. City or turn left to reach Wamsutter and Seminoe State Park. The alternating white and yellow squares are Interstate 80 23 miles to the south. Reprinted from Wyoming Department of known as the “checkerboard.” Transportation Brochure Before starting the route, make sure your vehi- 48.8 Intersection with Sweetwater County Road cle is in good repair. If it has not rained recently, 22 which leads to Bairoil approximately 20 miles Battle Pass you can make this trip in any full or mid-sized to the east and U.S. Highway 287 at Lamont a This rarely traveled, 57-mile section of highway passenger car. Make sure that your spare tire is few miles further. Wild horses may be viewed takes you from Baggs to Encampment by way of usable and that you have drinking water and some along this road but it is very rocky in sections. the Sierra Madre Mountains. There are no serv- ices between the two towns. From either end, basic emergency supplies with you. If you break 50 The numerous small dirt mounds are the result the route follows , and down, it may be a long time before someone of uranium prospecting. At this point, you cross

All Wyoming Area Codes are 307 passes below Bridger Peak, across Battle Pass at comes along to rescue you. A good pair of field the Continental Divide at an elevation of 7,041 9916 feet, by the ghost town of Battle, and past glasses or perhaps even a portable spotting scope feet above sea level and leave the Great Divide the . Along the way is would also be handy. Do not attempt to make this Basin and re-enter the Platte River drainage. Five trip during inclement weather. Be especially cau- miles straight ahead is Crooks Peak. Crooks some of the loveliest forest scenery in the state, tious when there is snow on the ground. Mountain is to the west of Crooks Peak. Crooks including a side road (FDR 801) known as Even the horses with the most recent domestic Gap separates Crooks Peak and Green Mountain Aspen Alley. This features a drive through an origins have been roaming free for many genera- to the east. The features were named after famed extensive aspen grove, an especially enchanting tions. Although some horses are accustomed to Indian fighter General . place in spring and fall, when the colors are in traffic and may appear unconcerned when a vehi- transition. Views of both the Encampment and cle approaches, you should not attempt to 55.2L Intersection with Three Forks/Atlantic City Little Snake River Valleys greet travelers at either approach the horses. To do so might endanger Road—40 miles to Atlantic City and neighboring end of the drive. yourself and cause unnecessary stress to the horses. South Pass State Historic Site. This road is not Two kinds of information follow. A point regularly maintained. Crooks Creek is on the Pilot Butte Wild Horse Scenic Loop introduced by “22R” means that it is 22 miles right side of the road. This drive gives visitors a chance to see an from the start of the route and is on the right side abundance of wildlife, including antelope, elk, of the road. A point introduced by “5-17” means 58-63 These last few miles of the route cross most- deer, rabbits, coyotes, hawks, eagles, and sage that it encompasses the entire area between the ly privately-owned lands. The streams and stream- grouse. But the most visible is probably the 5th and 17th mile of the route. side areas are home to a rich diversity of plants wild horse. Most wild horses in Wyoming are and animals. You will see the remains of some of located in the southwestern quarter of the state. 0 Point of beginning at the junction of Carbon the original homesteads in the area and follow the The Rock Springs BLM is the headquarters for County Rd 63 and U.S. Highway 287. Set your route of the Rawlins-Ft. Washakie stage for a ways. the management of the horses, which oversees trip odometer to zero. Stop at the turnoff and about 2500 of the 6000 horses in the area. The 60-69 As you near Jeffrey City, pay close attention read the sign explaining the Shamrock Hills existence of the wild herds is a credit to the pri- to the warning signs and be on the lookout for Raptor Concentration Area. The sign details the vate landowners here who do not fence their heavy equipment, especially large ore hauling story of the successful management of the ferrugi- land, allowing the horses and other wildlife to trucks. Even though traffic is sparse, it is not nous hawk, a relatively rare species. wander as necessary for food, water, and shelter non-existent.

Section 5 0-6 Greasewood/saltbush habitat type in the winter. 69 At Jeffrey City, a thriving city of 8,000 during It takes about 2.5 miles to complete this drive 6-69 The remainder of the route consists of the the uranium boom, you rejoin U.S. Highway 287. if you do not stop to look at the sights. The road sagebrush/grass habitat type. Soils become some- You can either turn left (west) and reach Lander or is mostly gravel, and conditions may vary, so high what sandier as you proceed toward the next Riverton or turn right (east) and return to Rawlins clearance vehicles are recommended. From Rock crossing of the Continental Divide. The grass and to the south or travel north to Casper. With a little Springs, travel 14 miles north on Elk Street (Hwy. forb (broad-leafed plants) species change imagination, you can reverse all of these directions 191) to County Road 4-14 (Fourteen Mile Road). throughout this area, but the sagebrush remains a and begin your journey at Jeffrey City. Turn left and continue 2.5 miles, then turn left constant feature of the landscape. again onto CR 4-53. Follow this road for 21.5 Seminoe/Alcova Scenic Backway miles to Green River. The dirt road becomes 25.3R Intersection with BLM road 3215. Bairoil This is a 64-mile route passing through some of Trona Drive. Follow Trona around the curve and can be reached by following this road. Followed Wyoming’s most arid country, but due to the turn right at its intersection with Hillcrest. Drive south, the road joins the Riner Road, crosses the dams and reservoirs built on the North Platte one block to Flaming Gorge Way. Downtown Chain Lakes Desert Wetland Complex, and even- River, this country also boasts some of the most Green River will be to your left. You can also tually intersects with Interstate 80. The wetland choice fishing and water recreation sports in begin the tour here and return to Rock Springs. complex, consisting of many playa lakes, capil- Wyoming. There are no towns, stores, gas sta- Article courtesy of Bureau of Land Management. lary springs, and bogs, is approximately five tions, or telephones between Sinclair and Alcova. miles to the south. Do not attempt to explore the Limited services are available at the marina store Gas Hills Uranium Mine wetland area. It is possible to become hopelessly at Seminoe Reservoir. The road varies from two From Riverton, drive south on Highway 789 mired in what initially may appear to be a pass- lane to single lane, with pullouts for passing as it to the junction with Highway 136 (Gas Hills able road or trail. goes through the Seminoe Mountains. Road). Bear left on Highway 136 and head 45 miles due east. 29.4R The Sweetwater Mill processed uranium The Backway usually can be driven by a pas- ore into yellowcake during the uranium boom of senger car from May to December, depending on In the fall of 1953, Neil E. NcNiece discov- the 1960s and 70s. It is one of the few mills in the amount of snow. In some places it is paved, ered what would become one of Riverton’s great- the U.S. designated by the Nuclear Regulatory and in other it is improved with gravel, but can est legacies when he happened upon area Commission as being in standby status. This get quite muddy, especially north of the Miracle uranium deposits. Although many realized the means that it could begin operating again in a Mile area. Because of the steepness of the road significant economic potential of the find, early short time period. in a few spots, motor home and vehicles pulling development of the site was limited due to inex- large trailers are not advised to travel between perienced miners and a lack of quality equip- 33.3 Intersection with Sweetwater County Road Miracle Mile and Seminoe State Park. Driving ment. However, when larger mining firms caught 23N. This point is almost exactly in the middle of time is about 2.5 miles, but can take longer wind of the discovery, development of the mine depending on stops to enjoy the sights and var- rapidly accelerated with mining activity continu- ied recreation. ing to this day.

314 Ultimate Wyoming Atlas and Travel Encyclopedia High Meadow Trail #712 Distance: 3 miles Climb: steep I Rating: difficult NCLUDING Usage: light Location: This trail intersects with the Smith Lake Trail #715, and travels in a south/southeasterly direction to its junction with North Fork Trail #710 in Sanford Park. C At the Junction of Smith Lake Trail #715, the ASPER High Meadow Trail heads south, crossing Smith S OUTHCENTRAL

Lake Creek. This junction is unmarked, as the , R trail is not maintained by the Forest Service. Just IVERTON beyond this junction, the trail descends, dropping into the North Fork Drainage, and ending at its junction with the North Fork Trail #710 on the

northwest side of Sanford Park. , L A NE AND ANDER Ice Lakes Trail #706 REA Distance: 7.2 miles Climb: steep Rating: difficult Usage: light/ moderate R

Location: In the southeast corner of Salt Cache Park, at AWLINS a signed junction, turn northwest onto the Ice Lakes Trail. This trail begins at the intersection of the Tayo Lake Trail #707 and ends at its junction with the Pinto Park Trail #708. South of Lander This trail heads west, then begins a steep climb for another mile. From here, a good view of Containing four types of uranium deposits, HIKES the Middle Popo Agie Valley is offered. The trail Gas Hills is now recognized as Wyoming’s leading then drops down and you must follow cairns uranium producer. Since its initial discovery, the around a small pond, and once again begin district has also produced twelve-percent of the Wind River climbing steeply. The view opens behind you, as entire US uranium production. The site is open Mountains (East) Roaring Fork Mountain, Sweetwater Gap, and the for self-guided trips. Bears Ears Trail #716 Cirque above Little Mountain Sheep Lake in Mt. Distance: 16 miles Nystrom are easily observed. After crossing the Castle Gardens Climb: steep saddle, the Ice Lakes come into view. From this Section 5 From Riverton, drive south on Highway 789 Rating: very difficult point, the trail drops steadily to the lakes. The to the junction with Highway 136 (Gas Hills Usage: heavy trail continues north into the deep Creek Lakes Road). Bear left on Highway 136 and proceed 35 Location: Travel 15 miles northwest of Lander on area, then junctions with the Deep Creek cutoff miles east. Turn left onto a dirt road and continue Hwy. 26/287, then turn west at Trout Creek Road trail#709 on the north side of the outlet of Lower 6 miles to a BLM sign. Bear right onto another across from the Ft. Washakie historical marker, adja- Deep Creek Lake. The trail switches back as it dirt road and continue 5 miles to the site. The cent to a Conoco Station. Follow road southwest for climbs into the Bear Lakes, then continues along drive takes at least 1 1/2 hours and visitors 19 miles across Wind River Indian Reservation. the west side of Echo Lakes, and ends at the junc- should not attempt to visit in winter or in Continue south (left) at the Moccasin Lake Dickinson tion of the Pinto Park Trail #708. muddy/wet conditions as the road is impassable. Park junction for 1.7 miles to the signed Bears Ears Smith Fork Trail #710 Jutting out of the remote desert miles from Trailhead parking area. the nearest sign of civilization is the historically Distance: 15 miles significant Castle Gardens. The area draws its The trail climbs some switchbacks, and at 3 Climb: moderate name from the sandstone outcroppings that eons miles, the double pronged stone outcroppings Rating: easy of erosion have shaped into turrets and towers known as Bears Ears come into view. After five Usage: light reminiscent of castle architecture. In addition to miles, you drop down from Adams Pass, cross a Location: Travel 15 miles northwest of Lander on Hwy 26/287, then turn west at Trout Creek Road, across its strange formations, Castle Gardens invites visi- corduroy over marsh, proceed over a permanent from the Ft. Washakie historical maker and adjacent to tors to experience Native American history. snow field, and cross Sand Creek. At the head the Conoco Station. Follow this road southwest for 19 During ancient times, Native Americans of the valley, the spectacular Wind River Peaks, miles across the Wind River Indian Reservation. chipped petroglyphs into sandstone walls in an which for the Continental Divide west, can be Continue south (left) at the Moccasin Lake/ Dickinson effort to record history, speak to the gods, share seen. In the Glacial cirques, numerous alpine Park junction, and go 4.1 miles past the Dickinson important stories, or simply mark a significant lakes grace the terrain. Continue south over the Creek campground to signed trailhead parking area. cultural place. Castle Gardens is one such place in rocky trail and come to the Trail which petroglyphs have been found, and the site junction at 9 miles. Fork right and descend into Follow the Smith Lake Trail across the cor- is one of the finest examples of the area’s rock art. Valentine Meadows, past the moss Lake Trail duroy and up the slope into the trees where it In addition, Castle Gardens ranks high in impor- (Dutch Oven) junction, and drop to the north intersects with the North Fork Trail. This trail tance among other western US petroglyph sites. side of Valentine Lake. The trail descends into travels across a ridge and drops into the North An unpaved hiking trail provides easy visitor the South Fork Little Wind River drainage and Fork of the Popo Agie River Drainage, then heads access as it winds through the site. Area petro- crosses the river. Here the trail connects with upstream, past the junction with the Shoshone glyph images include circular shield motifs, water Washakie Trail #718. The Bears Ears Trail heads Lake Trail, and enters the Popo Agie Wilderness turtles, medicine men, warriors, hunters with north, and follows downstream past the junc- approximately one mile before the first river weapons, bear claws, bison, antelope, deer, elk, tion of the Trail. The trail crossing. The trail crosses the river again at the sheep, weasels, and birds. The Bureau of Land leaves the river, climbs west, and descends onto lower end of Sanford Park, passes the junction of Management opened the site to the public in Grave Lake. On the north side of the lake, High Meadow Trail, then crosses High Meadow 1960, and it was added to the National Register you’ll pass the intersection with Onion Creek. The trail crosses the river a third time at of Historic Places in 1969. All visitors are asked Meadows Trail #902. On the northwest side of the upper end of Sanford Park and continues past to treat the site with the utmost respect so as to Grave Lake there is another junction with the junction of the Pinot Park Trail. At 9.5 miles, preserve this Native American legacy for the Baptiste Lake Trail #719, and the trail travels you cross the North Fork for the last time. As the enjoyment of future generations. southwest, climbing Hailey Pass. trail enters Lizard Head Meadows, just past the www.ultimatewyoming.com 315 (PRW) West of Encampment Platte Ridge Trail #510 Distance: 7.9 to 8.4 miles Climb: 900 feet Rating: difficult Usage: light Location: Take Hwy. 230 to the eastern portion of the Wyoming/Colorado border crossing. Near the border is FDR 898. Take this road about 8.5 miles to the Pelton Creek Campground. You will find the trailhead here. This trail climbs steadily, then begins to drop down to Douglas Creek. After traveling about 7 miles, the trail forks to the east and west. The east fork intersects with the Douglas Creek Trail #506 and goes for about one mile, the west fork intersects with the Platte River Trail #473 and goes about 1.5 miles. All Wyoming Area Codes are 307 Platte River/ Six Mile Gap Trail #473 Distance: 8.4 miles Climb: moderate Rating: difficult Usage: light Location: Travel about 22 miles south of Encampment on Hwy. 230, and turn east onto FDR 492. Continue 2.1 miles to Six Mile Gap Campground. The trailhead is located here. Somewhere near Split Rock This trail follows the North Platte River junction of Lizard Head Trail, there is a good Stough Creeks Lake Trail #702 through the lower end of the North Gate Canyon. view of Cirque of . The trail continues Distance: 7 miles Trail users should be aware that the trail crosses to Lonesome Lake and makes an easy climb to Climb: steep the North Platte River and Douglas Creek but has Jackass Pass. Rating: difficult NO bridges. Check water conditions before start- Usage: heavy ing out, and avoid crossing before July 1st, when Silas Creek Trail #722 Location: Travel 18 miles southwest of Lander on water levels are at their highest. Distance: 1.8 miles Sinks Canyon Road (Hwy. 131). Then take FDR Devil’s Gate Trail #505 Climb: gentle 300 to Worthen Meadows Reservoir junction. Turn Distance: 2.8 miles Rating: easy right and drive 2.3 miles to the Stough Creek Lakes Climb: 1,000 feet (descent) Usage: heavy Trailhead. Location: Travel 23.4 miles southwest of Lander on Rating: difficult Sinks Canyon Road (Hwy. 131). Then take FDR 300 The trail begins climbing steadily up a rocky Usage: light to Fiddlers Lake. The Christina Lake Trail starts at road 1/2 mile to Roaring Fork Lake, crossing the Location: Travel to Fox Park on Hwy. 230 and the parking area on the South end of the lake. outlet of the lake, and then reaches a corduroy turn west on FDR 512. This road intersects with 506D. Follow the Christina Lake Trail to the Junction with over a marsh at 1.7 miles. As you break out of The trailhead is at the road’s end. This is an extremely Section 5 Silas Lake Trail. the trees and begin to climb west, the trail cross- rocky, steep road that requires high clearance vehicles, es a tributary and swings across a meadow to an and does not accommodate RV’s or horse trailers. Early This trail travels west until Lower Silas Lake is open alpine saddle, Roaring Fork Pass, at 5 and late season snow may also limit access. visible from the trail, then it crosses Silas Creek. miles. The view takes in Roaring Fork Mountain Although this is a relatively short hike, it is The trail continues upstream several hundred and Wind River Peak. The trail then drops rated difficult for its steepness. After following the yards, then you must return by the same route. steadily to a creek crossing, and continues to the East Fork of Devil’s Gate Creek, it crosses West junction at Stough Creek Basin Trail #704. At the Smith Lake Trail #715 Fork. Check runoff conditions before attempting junction the trail heads south to Big Stough and Distance: 7.5 miles this hike. The trail intersects with the Douglas Shoal Lakes. You can stop here, or continue Climb: gentle Creek Trail #506 at the end. Rating: easy south through open country to reach the higher Usage: heavy Stough Creek Lakes. Douglas Creek Trail #506 Location: Travel 15 miles northwest of Lander on Hwy Tayo Lake Trail #707 Distance: 9.1 miles Climb: 800 feet (descent) 26/287, then turn west at Trout Creek Road, across Distance: 4.1 miles Rating: difficult from the Ft. Washakie historical marker and adjacent Climb: steep Usage: light to the Conoco Station. Follow this road southwest for 19 Rating: moderate Location: Travel to Fox Park on Hwy. 230 and turn west miles across the Wind River Indian Reservation. Usage: heavy on FDR 512. This road goes all the way to the northwest Continue south (left) at the Moccasin Lake/ Dickinson Location: This trail intersects with the Middle Fork corner of the wilderness, where the trailhead begins. The Park Junction, and go 4.1 miles past the Dickinson Trail #700 at Tayo Park, and ends at Tayo Lake. Creek campground to the signed trailhead parking area. road has many switchbacks, requiring a high clearance After entering Tayo Park, the trail crosses the vehicle. Trailers and RVs are not recommended. Early This trail drops down to the marsh near Twin Middle Fork of the Popo Agie River and climbs and late season snow may also limit access. Parks Creek and crosses the corduroy before begin- steeply to Salt Cache Park. The trail continues ning a gradual climb up. Continue traveling on the Baby Lake Trail #859 southwest past Poison Lake, then crosses Tayo road for 1/2 mile before reaching the Smith Lake/ Distance: 4.2 miles Creek and intersects with Coon Lake Trail #705. North Fork junction. Go right onto the Smith Lake Location: Travel about 18 miles west of Encampment From here, the trail heads northwest, crossing Trail and continue climbing. You will go southwest on Hwy .70. Turn south on FDR 811, by Lost Creek the Tayo Creek again and ending at Tayo Lake. and drop across a creek at 3 miles. At 4.5 miles is Campground. When road forks, take FDR 811.1A to Encampment Area (including Platte River the signed High Meadows Trail junction. Stay right gravel parking lot and trailhead. Wilderness, Encampment River Wilderness, and on the trail and begin climbing steadily to the #412 () Areas) Cook Lake Trail junction. Say right and continue Distance: 13. 5 miles 100 yards to Middle Lake. To get to Cathedral Location: Travel 12 miles west of Encampment on Lake, follow the cairn-marked trail and climb west. Hwy. 70 to Battle Pass. South of here is the Huston

316 Ultimate Wyoming Atlas and Travel Encyclopedia Park Wilderness Area at Red Mountain. It is about 10 The bare granite Pedro Mountains dotted with #108. Scenic alpine trail on the north side of miles from here to the Continental Divide. The trail ponderosa pine have no official hiking trails nor Brown’s Peak. can also be accessed from Green Mountain Trailhead. roads with legal public access. For that reason, Lake Marie Falls #290 I Go two miles south on Green Mountain Trail to reach they are not crowded and have great allure to the NCLUDING Huston Park Wilderness Area. Again, the Divide is most adventuresome cross-country hikers and Distance: 0.2 miles about 10 miles additional traveling distance. backpackers. Only those with extensive back- Climb: 50 feet country experience in orienteering should Rating: easy Green Mountain Falls Trail #478 attempt to go where there are no trails. Usage: moderate/ heavy Distance: 1.2 miles Location: off of Lake Marie West Parking Area. C Location: Travel 6 miles west of Encampment on Hwy. Cottonwood Creek Dinosaur Trail Short scenic loop trail along South French Creek at the ASPER

70, then south on FDR 550, then west on FDR 406. Distance: 0.5 mile base of the peas of the Snowy Range. S OUTHCENTRAL

Go 1.5 miles to the trailhead. Climb: steep , R Roaring Fork Trail #860 Rating: moderate/difficult Silver Lake #291 Distance: 7.4 miles Usage: moderate Distance: 1.6 miles IVERTON Location: Travel 23 miles west of Encampment, then Location: South off of Hwy. 220 onto the Climb: 280 feet turn south on FDR 807. For about 6 miles do FDR Seminoe/Alcova Scenic Backway, about 5 miles, then Rating: easy

851, then continue east for 1.5 miles until the junc- west towards the reservoir. Usage: moderate/ heavy , L Location: Silver Lake Trailhead. A tion with FDR 851.1A. Take this road about 2 miles AND ANDER In 1991, numerous dinosaur bones and the REA east to the trailhead. FDR 851.1A requires a high Loop trail around Silver Lake in sub-alpine ter- clearance vehicle. skeleton of a medium-sized dinosaur called Camarasaurus were discovered by 5th grade stu- rain, with a short steep section to get to the lake. Verde Mine Trail #858 dents from Casper. Most of the original skeleton Tipple #293 Distance: 3.2 miles now resides in a Casper museum. Today, a BLM

Distance: 2.1 miles R Location: Travel 23 miles on Hwy. 70 west of trail runs through the sandstone ledges of the Climb: 400 feet AWLINS Encampment to FDR 807. Go south about 6 miles to Morrison formation. Present along the trail are Rating: easy FDR 851. Continue 8.5 miles to FDR 851.1D. The many vertabrate, invertabrate, and plant fossils. Usage: moderate trailhead is about 4 miles from this junction. This road The slopes of the trail can be quite steep, and Location: By Tipple Trailhead or Miner’s Cabin requires a high clearance vehicle. hikers should be in good physical condition Trailhead. before undertaking the walk. Green Mountain Trail #479 Trail traverses sub-alpine terrain with spectac- Distance: 1.2 miles Snowy Range Trails ular views of the Snowy Range and South French Location: Travel 6 miles west of Encampment on Hwy. Creek. 70, then go south on FDR 550 for 5.7 miles. Turn west Heart Lake Trail #101 on FDR 406, then go 1.5 miles to trailhead. Distance: 0.8 miles Dipper Lake #294 Climb: 200 feet Distance: 3.4 miles Encampment River Trail #470 (Commissary Rating: easy Climb: 1400 feet Park) Usage: moderate Rating: difficult Distance: 15.6 miles Location: Dipper Lake on forest road #103 Usage: light

Location: Travel 6 miles west of Encampment on Hwy. Location: By Dipper Lake on forest road #103 Section 5 70, then go south on FDR 550 for about 14.5 miles to Trail access is from Dipper Lake Trail #294. FDR 496. Turn southeast and go about 4 miles to Very scenic alpine trail on the west side of Trail passes Dipper Lake and climbs steeply to reach trailhead. . Medicine Bow Peak. Hog Park Creek Trail #475 Quealy Lake #102 Medicine Bow Peak #297 Distance: 1.1 miles Distance: 4. 1 miles Distance: 4.5 miles Location: Travel 6 miles west of Encampment on Hwy. Climb: 500 feet Climb: 1600 feet 70, then go south on FDR 550 for about 14.5 miles to Rating: moderate Rating: quite difficult FDR 496. Turn southeast and go about 2 miles to Usage: light Usage: light/ moderate reach trailhead. Location: By Quealy Lake on forest road #103. Location: Off of Lake Marie West Parking Area of Lewis Lake Trailhead. East Fork Trail #472 Trail crosses sub-alpine terrain N of Medicine Distance: 6.7 miles Bow ridge passing three lakes. Very scenic. A very steep climb through open rocky alpine Location: Travel one mile east of Riverside on Hwy. terrain with a panoramic view. Trail climbs to the 230. Go south on County Rd. 211 for 14.3 miles. This Vagner Lake Trail #103 top of Medicine Bow Peak, the highest point in road becomes FDR 409 after the Forest Boundary is Distance: 0.5 miles the Medicine Bow National Forest. Climb: 100 feet crossed. The road will reach the intersection with FDR Lakes #296 496. Stay on 409 past the intersection, and continue 3 Rating: easy Distance: 1.8 miles miles to trailhead. Usage: light Location: By Quealy lake on forest road #103. Climb: 900 feet Purgatory Gulch Trail #477 Spur from Quealy Lake Trail #102 to Vagner Lake. Rating: difficult Distance: 0.5 mile Usage: light Location: Travel one mile east of Riverside on Hwy. North Gap Lake #108 Location: Off of Mirror Lake Picnic Area Distance: 2.5 miles 230 then go south on County Rd. 211, which turns into Trail goes through open alpine country past FDR 409. After about 6 miles turn onto BLM Rd. Climb: 700 feet Rating: moderate Lookout Lake with panoramic views of Medicine 409.1B. The trailhead is about 2 miles southwest of this Bow Peak. point. A high clearance vehicle is required. Usage: light Location: Off Lewis Lake Trailhead. Meadow Falls #297 Seminoe/ Pathfinder/Alcova Area Trail follows a gentle grade past several high Distance: 2.7 miles mountain lake traveling across a few boulder fields. Climb: 350 feet Pedro Mountains Rating: moderate Distance: varies Shelf Lakes Trail #109 Usage: moderate Climb: varies Distance: 1.1 miles Location: Off of Silver Lake Trailhead. Rating: varies Climb: 120 feet Usage: light Rating: easy Loop trail that passes through sub-alpine ter- Location: South off of Hwy. 220 onto the Usage: moderate rain with a 600 foot spur to view Meadow Falls. Seminoe/Alcova Scenic Backway, about 25 miles, then Location: Off Lewis Lake Trailhead. Ties into the Silver Lake Trail. west into the wilderness. French Creek Canyon #298 Trail access is from the North Gap Lake Trail Distance: 5.3 miles www.ultimatewyoming.com 317 Climb: 1600 feet Location: Off FDR #500 at marker 500.3 A. Golf Rating: difficult Only high clearance vehicles can access this trailhead. Usage: light Trail gradually follows the contour of Savage Run Creek Casper Golf Club • Casper 234-2405 Location: off of Tipple of Miner’s Cabin or French through mostly forested land. It dead-ends at private Lander Golf & Country Club • Creek Canyon Trailheads. property, which isn’t accessible to the public. An exten- Lander 332-4653 sion trail (#501 A) leaves the main trail, just south of Renegade Golf Course • Riverton 857-0117 This trail starts at milepost 0.6 of the Tipple the main fork on Savage Run Creek, beyond the Links at Casper Golf Club • Casper 234-2405 trail from the L ake Marie Trailhead or milepost Cottonwood Creek Trail, to connect with FDR #512. Saratoga Inn, Hot Springs & Golf Resort • 1.85 from the Miner’s Cabin Trailhead, for a total Saratoga 326-5261 mileage of either 5.9 or 7.1 miles. Trail follows Cottonwood Creek #501 Rawlins Municipal Golf Course • South French Creek through sub-alpine forest, Distance: 1.5 miles Rawlins 328-4573 meadows, rock canyons, and past Sunshine Falls. Climb: steep Riverton Country Club • Riverton 856-4779 Rating: difficult Lost Lake #395 Usage: light Ski Areas Distance: 3.5 miles Location: Off FDR #512 (Platte Access Road) Hogadon Basin Ski Area 235-8499 Climb: 180 feet at marker 512 V. Rating: moderate Guest Ranches Usage: light/ moderate Trail descends down and across Cottonwood Location: off Lewis Lake Trailhead or Brooklyn Lake Creek, and over another hill which descends into Miracle Mile Ranch • 325-6710 All Wyoming Area Codes are 307 Campground. the Savage Run Creek Trail. Overland Trail Guest Ranch • Arlington 378-2400 Trail traverses through sub-alpine terrain Mountain Meadow Guest Ranch • passing through meadows and by high mountain INFORMATION PLEASE Centennial 742-6042 streams and lakes. Rustic Mountain Lodge • Tourism Information Encampment 327-5539 Deep Lake #110 Twin Creek Ranch and Lodge • Distance: 0.5 miles National Historic Trails Interpretive Center Lander 335-7485 Climb: 180 feet 261-7700 Black Mountain Ranch • Lander 332-6442 Rating: easy Casper Area Convention & Visitors Bureau, Resort at Louis Lake • Lander 332-5549 Usage: moderate/ heavy Natrona County Travel & Tourism Council Allen’s Diamond 4 Ranch • Lander 332-2995 Location: Off Lewis Lake Trailhead or Brooklyn Lake 234-5362 Willow Creek Inn • Lander 332-7396 Campground. Lander Chamber of Commerce 332-3892 Hart Ranch Hideout • Lander 332-3836 Rawlins-Carbon Country Chamber of Commerce Trail traverses through sub-alpine terrain VR Halawasa Ranch • Pavillion 857-2057 324-4111 passing through meadow and by high mountain Hat 2 Wranglers • Pavillion 856-1993 Chamber of Commerce of Riverton 856-4801 streams and lakes. Strathkay Wranglers Ranch • Saratoga-Platte Valley Chamber of Commerce Riverton 856-2194 Miner’s Cabin #201 326-8855 Wolf Hotel Restaurant & Lounge • Saratoga 326-5525 Distance: 0.7 miles Government Climb: 200 feet Brush Creek Guest Ranch • Saratoga 327-5241 Rating: easy BLM Casper Field Office 261-7600 Medicine Bow Guest Ranch • Usage: moderate/ heavy Wyoming Game and Fish Department, Casper Saratoga 326-3439 Location: Off Medicine Bow Peak Overlook off 473-3400 Sierra Madre Guest Ranch • Saratoga 326-5261 Highway 130. BLM Lander Field Office 332-8400 Battlecreek Outfitters • Savery 383-2418 BLM Rawlins Field Office 328-4200 Antelope Retreat • Savery 383-2625 A self-guided loop trail which follows a gentle BLM Resevoir Management Group 261-7600

Section 5 grade past historic Red Mask mine and Cabin and BLM Wyoming State Office 775-6256 Lodges and Resorts includes several interpretive signs along the way. MedicineBow-Routt National Forests Thunder Lodge at Willard Springs • Sheep Lake #389 Basin 745-2300 Powder River 620-0178 - Washakie Ranger Distance: 8.2 miles North Platte Lodge • Alcova 237-1182 Districts 527-6241 Climb: 1300 feet Snowy Mountain Lodge • Centennial 742-7669 Medicine Bow-Routt National Forests Thunder Rating: very difficult Grand & Sierra Bed and Breakfast Lodge • Basin National Grassland - Brush Creek/Hayden Usage: light Encampment 327-5200 Ranger District 745-2300 Location: Off Sand Lake Trailhead or Sheep Lake Spirit West River Lodge • Riverside 327-5753 Trailhead on forest road #317. Mountain Hideaway Lodge • Saratoga 326-5887 Car Rentals Saratoga Inn, Hot Springs & Golf Resort • Trail passes through high flat sub-alpine coun- Hertz • Riverton 856-2344 Saratoga 326-5261 try with many open parks, lakes and streams. Aries Car Rentals • Casper 234-3501 Around Town Rent-A-Car • Casper 265-5667 Vacation Houses, North Fork #390 Avis Rent A Car • Casper 237-2634 Cabins & Condos Distance: 4.4 miles Hertz • Casper 265-1355 Dredge Station • Atlantic City 339-7404 Climb: 1300 feet Enterprise • Casper 234-8122 Atlantic City Mercantile • Atlantic City 332-5143 Rating: quite difficult Jim’s Aircraft Service & Car Rental • Riverton Valley’s End Guest House • Centennial 742-5715 Usage: moderate 856-3599 Middle Mountain Guest Cottage • Location: Off North Fork Trailhead on forest road Price King Rent-A-Car • Casper 472-7378 Centennial 755-0696 #317 or by North Fork Campground. Quality Auto Rentals • Rawlins 324-7131 TNT Guest House • Fox Park 755-5050 Trail follows the North Fork of the Little Rent A Wreck • Lander 332-9965 Outlaw Cabins • Lander 332-9655 for most of the route. Good fishing Hospitals High Country Guest House • Lander 332-2106 opportunities, and a good mountain bike trail Mountain Rose Cabin • Lander 332-2830 from the west to east end. Lander Valley Medical Center • Lander 332-4420 Bear Trap Bar, Cafe, & Cabins • Riverton Memorial Hospital • Riverton 856-4161 Riverside 327-5277 Memorial Hospital of Carbon County • Rawlins Three River Cottages • Saratoga 326-8750 Savage Run Wilderness Area 324-2221 Savage Run Creek #501 Wyoming Medical Center • Casper 577-7201 Bed and Breakfasts Distance: about 10 miles Miner’s Delight B&B • Atlantic City 332-0248 Climb: steep Airports The Bunk House • Lander 332-5624 Rating: quite difficult Riverton 856-7063 Wolf Hotel Restaurant & Lounge • Usage: light Casper 472-6688 Saratoga 326-5525

318 Ultimate Wyoming Atlas and Travel Encyclopedia Rustic Mountain Lodge • Outlaw B&B • Lander 332-5624 Sweetwater Fishing Expeditions F 332-3986 Encampment 327-5539 Centennial Trust Co. • Centennial 721-4090 Great Rocky Mountain Outfitters FR 326-8750 Cottage House of Squaw Creek • Brooklyn Lodge B&B • 924-1236 Hack’s Tackle & Outfitters FH 326-9823 I

Lander 332-7485 Old Depot B&B • Riverside 327-5277 Horseback Adventures E 326-5569 NCLUDING Far Out West B&B • Saratoga 326-5869 Kingfisher House • Saratoga 326-8217 Medicine Bow Drifters F 326-8002 Hood House B&B Inn • Saratoga 326-8901 Wyoming Trout Company FR 327-5444 Delfelder Inn B&B • Riverton 857-3100 Outfitters and Guides Meadow Lake Outfitters HF 332-6158 Blue Spruce Inn B&B • Lander 332-8253 Lander Llama Company G 332-5624 Dan Artery’s Rimrock Hunts H 332-2029 C

Sand Creek Ranch • Alcova 234-9597 The Bunk House G 332-5624 Saratoga Outfitters H 327-5504 ASPER Edna’s B&B • Lander 332-3175 Teton Horseback Adventures & Swift Creek A Cross Ranch H 327-5794 S

Whispering Pines B&B • Lander 332-9735 Outfitters E 856-3628 AJ Outfitters H 473-1196 OUTHCENTRAL Willow Creek Inn • Lander 332-7396 Battlecreek Outfitters H 383-2418 Big Game Outfitters H 856-3364 , R

Brooksong B&B • Saratoga 326-8744 Wildhorse Country Tours E 383-2015 Diamond J Outfitters H 326-8259 IVERTON Antique Bed Inn • Casper 265-2304 BJ Outfitters H 472-7956 Wyoming Trophy Outfitters H 234-6167 Ivy House Inn • Casper 265-0974 Paradise Outfitters EG 856-2950 7D Ranch Outfitting FHEG 587-9885 Baldwin Creek B&B •Lander 332-7608 Rocky Mt. Horseback Adventures EG 332-4502 , L A NE AND ANDER REA Dining Quick Reference Price Range refers to the average cost of a meal per person: ($) $1-$6, ($$) $7-$11, ($$$) $12-up. Cocktails: “Yes” indicates full bar; Beer (B)/Wine (W), Service: Breakfast (B), Brunch (BR), Lunch (L), Dinner (D). Businesses in bold print will have additional information under the appropriate map locator number in the body of this section. R AWLINS MAP# RESTAURANT TYPE PRICE CHILD COCKTAILS MEALS CREDIT CUISINE RANGE MENU BEER SERVED CARDS WINE ACCEPTED

1 Blue Heron Espresso Coffee $ No 1 Fire Rock Steakhouse Fine Dining $$/$$$ Yes Yes L/D Major 1 Applebee’s American $$ Yes Yes L/D Major 1 Roadway Husky Family $$ Yes L/B/D Major 1 Country Mill Restaurant Family $$ Yes Yes L/D/B Major 1 Dori Lou’s Restaurant Family $$ Yes B/L/D Major 1 Home Town Buffet Family $$ L/D Major 1 Pammy Jo’s Java Coffee Coffee Drive Thru B/L 1 Sandwich Bar Sandwiches $ Yes L

1 Mountain View Sub Shop Sandwiches $$ Yes L/D Section 5 1 Great American Deli Deli $$ No L/D Major 1 Blimpie’s Subs & Salads Sandwiches $ Yes D/L Major 1 Crazy Buffalo Steakhouse Steakhouse $$$ Yes Yes L/D Major 1 El Jarro Mexican $$ Yes B L/D M/V 1 Hamburger Stand/Tasty Freeze/Wienerschnitzel Fast Food $ Yes L/D/B M/V 2 La Costa Mexican Restaurant Mexican $$ Yes B L/D M/V 2 Cookery/Pepperoni’s Family $$ No L/D/B Major 2 Hot Dog on a Stick Fast Food $ L/D 2 1 Potato 2 Fast Food $ Yes L/D 2 Java Jitters Espresso Coffee $ L/D 2 Flaming Wok Chinese $$ Yes L/D M/V 2 Pretzelmaker Pretzels $ L/D 2 Pic-a-Piece Pizza Pizza $ L/D 2 Mrs. Fields Cookies Bakery $ L/D 2 Taco Bell Fast Food $ Yes L/D 2 Taco John’s Fast Food $ Yes L/D 2 Mongolian Grill Mongolian $ Yes L/D M/V 2 Domino’s Pizza Pizza $$$/$$ No Yes D/L Major 2 Wendy’s Fast Food $ Yes D/L Major 2 Pizza Hut Pizza $$ Yes B L/D Major 2 Red Lobster Seafood $$$ Yes Yes L/D Major 3 Godfather’s Pizza Pizza $$ Yes B/W D/L Major 3 South Sea Chinese Restaurant Chinese $$ No W/B L/D M/V 3 Subway Sandwiches $ Yes L/D M/V 4 Johnny J’s Diner Homestyle $$ B/L/D Major 4 Subway Sandwiches $ Yes L/D M/V 4 Red & White Café Family $$ Yes L/B/D Major 4 Ghost Town Restaurant Family $$ No D/L/B Major 4 Yellowstone Grill & Daylight Donuts Family $$ No Yes L/D/B Major 4 Western Grill Restaurant Family $$ Yes D/L/B 4 Pizza Place Pizza $$ Yes L/D 4 Sherrie’s Place Family $$ Yes B/L Major 4 Plow’s Diner Family $$ Yes L/D/B 5 The Wonder Bar American $$/$$$ Yes Yes L/D Major www.ultimatewyoming.com 319 Dining Quick Reference—Continued Price Range refers to the average cost of a meal per person: ($) $1-$6, ($$) $7-$11, ($$$) $12-up. Cocktails: “Yes” indicates full bar; Beer (B)/Wine (W), Service: Breakfast (B), Brunch (BR), Lunch (L), Dinner (D). Businesses in bold print will have additional information under the appropriate map locator number in the body of this section.

MAP# RESTAURANT TYPE PRICE CHILD COCKTAILS MEALS CREDIT CUISINE RANGE MENU BEER SERVED CARDS WINE ACCEPTED

5 PB’s Fish Factory at Parkway Plaza Family $$ Yes Yes L/D Major 5 Old House Restaurant Homestyle $$ Yes L Major 5 Parkway Café Family $$ Yes Yes L/D/B Major 5 Botticelli Ristorante Italiano Northern Italian $$ No Yes L/D Major 5 Sanford’s Grub & Pub Brew Pub $$ Yes Yes D/L Major 5 Don Jaun Mexican Restaurant Mexican $$ No W/B L/D Major 5 Sandwich Bar Sandwiches $ Yes L 5 Barry’s Italian Restaurant Italian $$$ No Yes D/L Major

All Wyoming Area Codes are 307 5 Fajita Cantina Mexican $$ Yes L/D 5 First Street Bakery Bakery $$ Yes L/B Major 5 Eagle Bowl & Café American 5 Golden Dragon Chinese $$ Yes L/D M/V 5 Cheese Barrel Vegetarian $$ Yes B/L M/V 5 Cottage Café Family $$ L/D Major 6 303 Grille Fine Dining $$/$$$ Yes L/D Major 6 La Cocina:Best Mexican Food Under The Sun Mexican $$ B L/D Major 6 Remington's in Ramkota American $$/$$$ Yes Yes B/L/D Major 6 Metro Coffee Company Coffee/bakery $ Yes L/D M/V 6 Drakes Family $$ Yes Yes L/D/B Major 6 Subway Sandwiches $ L/D M/V 6 JB’s Restaurant Family $$ Yes B/L/D Major 6 Dairy Queen Fast Food $ Yes L/D Major 6 Casper’s Good Cooking Family $$ 0No B/L/D Major 6 Sidelines Sports Bar & Grill American $$ No Yes L/D Major 6 TCBY Fast Food $ L/D 6 Hardee’s Fast Food $ Yes B/L/D 6 Poor Boy’s Steakhouse Family $$ Yes L/D Major 7 Peaches’ Family Restaurants Fast Food $ Yes L/D 7 Sunrise Coffee Coffee Drive Thru $ L/B 8 Elkhorn Canyon Café Family $$ Yes L/D 8 Sedars Colonial Restaurant Fine Dining $$$ No Yes D Major 8 TCBY Fast Food $ No L/D Major Section 5 8 Village Inn Family $$ Yes L/D/B Major 8 Pizza Hut Pizza $$ Yes B L/D Major 9 Quizno’s Sandwiches $ Yes L/D 9 Guadalajara Mexican $$ Yes L/D Major 9 Adam’s Rib & Steakhouse Steakhouse $$$ No Yes D/L Major 9 New Moon Café Chinese $$ L/D Major 9 Subway Sandwiches $ Yes L/D Major/M/V 9 Moxie Java No 9 Taco Bell Fast Food $ Yes L/D 9 Wings & Things Fast Food $ Yes L/D Major 9 Don’s Fireside Restaurant & Lounge Steakhouse $$$ Yes D Major 9 Quizno’s Sandwiches $ Yes L/D Major 10 Armor’s Silver Fox Lounge Steak/Seafood $$$ Yes D/L Major 10 West Side Café American $$ Yes B/L/D Major 10 Goose Egg Inn Steakhouse $$$ No Yes D Major 10 Westside Café Family $$ Yes B/L/D V/M/D 10 Pizza Hut Pizza $$ Yes B L/D Major 12 Chatters Bar & Grill American $$ Yes L/D Major 13 Taco John’s Fast Food $ Yes L/D 13 Buzy B’Z Family $$ Yes L/B 13 Fort Java Outpost Coffee House $ No L/B 13 Subway Sandwiches $ Yes L/D M/V 13 TCBY Fast Food $ Yes L/D Major 13 Bid’s Place Sandwiches $$ Yes L/D Major 13 Kopper Kettle Restaurant Family $$ Yes L/D/B Major 13 Herbo’s Family $$/$ Yes L/B M/V 14 The Breadboard Sandwiches $ L/D 16 Alcova Lakeside Marina & Restaurant Family $$$/$$ Yes Yes B/L/D Major 16 Sunset Grill Family $$ Yes Yes B/L/D Major

320 Ultimate Wyoming Atlas and Travel Encyclopedia Dining Quick Reference—Continued Price Range refers to the average cost of a meal per person: ($) $1-$6, ($$) $7-$11, ($$$) $12-up. Cocktails: “Yes” indicates full bar; Beer (B)/Wine (W),

Service: Breakfast (B), Brunch (BR), Lunch (L), Dinner (D). Businesses in bold print will have additional information under the appropriate map locator I NCLUDING number in the body of this section.

MAP# RESTAURANT TYPE PRICE CHILD COCKTAILS MEALS CREDIT CUISINE RANGE MENU BEER SERVED CARDS

WINE ACCEPTED C ASPER

19 Peppermill Bar & Grill American $$ L/D Major S OUTHCENTRAL

19 Wendy’s Fast Food $ B/L/D , R

19 Taco Bell Fast Food $ Yes L/D IVERTON 19 Subway Sandwiches/ $ Yes L/D Major 19 Aspen House Restaurant American $$ B/L/D 19 China Panda Chinese $$ L/D , L

19 Rustlers Family Restaurant Family $$ B/L/D Major A NE AND ANDER 19 Taco John’s Fast Food $ Yes L/D REA 20 Subway Sandwiches $ Yes Major 20 JB’s Big Boy Restaurant Family $ Yes B/BR/L/D Major 21 Cappy’s Drive In Restaurant Fast Food $ L/D

22 Pantry Restaurant Family $/$$ B/L/D Major R

28 Old Corral Hotel Steakhouse $$/$$$ Yes Yes D/B Major AWLINS 28 Mountain View Historic Hotel Family $$ Yes B/L D/M/V 28 Albany Lodge Restaurant Family $$/$$$ Yes B/L/D Major 28 Three Horned Rhino Family $$/$$$ Yes Yes B/L/D Major 28 Beartree Tavern & Café Family $$ No Yes L/D/BR V/M 28 Friendly Store Café Family $ Yes Yes L/D/B Major 29 Airport Café Family $$ Yes L/D/B Major 29 Oriental Palace Chinese Restaurant Chinese $$ Yes L/D M/V 29 Perrett’s Pizza $$ Yes B/W L/D M/V 29 QT’s Restaurant Family $$ Yes L/D/B Major 29 Country Cove Restaurant Family $$ L/B Major 29 Bear Trap Cafe & Bar American $/$$ Yes Yes L/D/B M/V 29 Pine Lodge Bar Bistro $ No Yes Major

29 Sugar Bowl Family $ No Section 5 29 Grand & Sierra Bed and Breakfast Lodge Family $$/$$$ B Major 29 Bear Trap Bar, Cafe, & Cabins Family $$ Yes D/L/B Major 30 Wolf Hotel Restaurant & Lounge Steakhouse $$ Yes L/D/B Major 30 Mom’s Kitchen Family $/$$ Yes B/L/D 30 Bubba’s Bar-B-Que Restaurant Barbeque $$ Yes L/D Major 30 Lollypops Ice Cream $ 30 Lazy River Cantina & Lounge Fine Dining $/$$ Yes L/D V/M 30 Donut Ranch Bakery Bakery & Desserts $ B/L 30 Corral Restaurant Family $/$$ No B/L/D M/V 30 Wilder Stumpy’s Eatery American $/$$ No L/D Major 30 Saratoga Inn, Hot Springs & Golf Resort Fine Dining $$$ Yes L/D Major 31 Dip Bar & Diner Family $$ No Yes L/D 33 Hell’s Half Acre Family $$ Yes Yes B/L/D Major 33 Sanford’s Tumble Inn Family $$ Yes Yes L/D Major 35 Steelman’s Brite Spot Tavern $ Yes L/D 36 Hot Stuff Pizza Pizza $ No L/D 36 Wrangler Cafe Family $/$$ Yes B/L/D Major 37 Windriver Mercantile Tea Room Natural Foods $ B/L Major 37 Sundowner Station Restaurant & Lounge Family $$ Yes Yes L/D Major 37 Burger King Fast Food $ Yes D/L/B M/V 37 China Panda Chinese $$ Yes D/L Major 37 Dairy Queen Fast Food $ Yes D/L 37 El Durango Mexican $$ B/W Major 37 Golden Corral Family Restaurant Family $$ Yes L/D Major 37 Kentucky Fried Chicken Chicken $ Yes L/D Major 37 Pizza Hut Pizza $$ Yes B L/D Major 37 Taco Bell Fast Food $ Yes L/D 37 Trailhead Family Restaurant Family $$ Yes D/L/B Major 37 Wendy’s Fast Food $ Yes D/L Major 37 Pony Expresso Coffee Shop $ L/B 37 JB’s Restaurant American $$ Yes L/D/B Major 38 Arby’s Fast Food $ Yes D/L/B Major 38 Bull Steakhouse Steak/Seafood $$$ Yes L/D Major 38 Domino’s Pizza Pizza $$ Yes D/L Major www.ultimatewyoming.com 321 Dining Quick Reference—Continued Price Range refers to the average cost of a meal per person: ($) $1-$6, ($$) $7-$11, ($$$) $12-up. Cocktails: “Yes” indicates full bar; Beer (B)/Wine (W), Service: Breakfast (B), Brunch (BR), Lunch (L), Dinner (D). Businesses in bold print will have additional information under the appropriate map locator number in the body of this section.

MAP# RESTAURANT TYPE PRICE CHILD COCKTAILS MEALS CREDIT CUISINE RANGE MENU BEER SERVED CARDS WINE ACCEPTED

38 McDonald’s Fast Food $ Yes L/D/B 38 Subway Sandwiches $ Yes L/D/B Major/M/V 38 Taco John’s Fast Food $ Yes L/D 38 Daylight Donuts Coffee Shop $ No L/B 38 The Depot Mexican $$$ Yes L/D Major 38 Good Time Charlie’s Bar & Grill $$ Yes Yes L/D Major 39 La Cantina Restaurant Mexican/American $$ Yes Yes L/D Major 42 Club El Toro Steakhouse $$$ Yes Yes D All Wyoming Area Codes are 307 42 Svilar’s Dining Room Fine Dining $$$ No Yes L/D 42 El Toro Fine Dining $$$ No Yes D 43 Pronghorn Lodge and Oxbow Restaurant American $$ Yes Yes B/L/D Major 43 Tony’s Pizza Pizza/Italian $$ W/B L/D Major 43 Maverick Motel, Restaurant & Lounge Western Steakhouse $$/$$$ Yes B/L/D Major 43 Arctic Circle Fast Food $ Yes L/D Major 43 Wildflower Bakery & Espresso Bakery $$ B/L/D 43 Subway Sandwiches $ L/D Major 43 Silver Spur BBQ & Deli BBQ $$ L/B 43 Showboat Diner Steaks/American $$ Yes L/D/B 43 Pizza Hut Pizza $$ Yes B L/D Major 43 Judd’s Grub Burgers $ Yes L/D 43 Hitching Rack Fine Food $$$ No Yes D Major 43 Gannett Grill Sanwiches $ Yes D/L Major 43 Highwayman Café Homestyle $$/$ Yes D/L/B Major 43 McDonald’s Fast Food $ Yes L/D/B Major 43 Cowfish Steak/Seafood $/$$$ Yes Yes D/L Major 43 China Garden Chinese $$ No D/L M/V 43 Big Noi Family Restaurant Thai $$ No D/L/B 43 Breadboard Soup/Sandwich $ No D/L 43 The Magpie Family $$/$ Yes B/L 43 The Oxbow Family $$ Yes B/L/D Major 43 Dairy Land Drive In Fast Food $ No D/L

Section 5 43 Mom’s Malt Shop Ice Cream $ 43 Taco Bell Fast Food $ Yes L/D 45 High Plains Bar & Café Family $$ Yes Yes B/L/D 46 Flying J-The Cookery American $ No Major 48 Broadway Cafe Family $ Yes B/L/D Major 54 Point of Rocks Café Family $$ Yes B/L/D M/V 55 Canyon Bar Tavern $ Yes 58 Atlantic City Mercantile Steak/Family $$$ Yes Yes L/D Major 60 Wagon Wheel Cafe Family $ No B/L/D V/M

NOTES:

322 Ultimate Wyoming Atlas and Travel Encyclopedia Motel Quick Reference Price Range: ($) Under $40 ; ($$) $40-$60; ($$$) $60-$80, ($$$$) Over $80. Pets [check with the motel for specific policies] (P), Dining (D), Lounge I

(L), Disabled Access (DA), Full Breakfast (FB), Cont. Breakfast (CB), Indoor Pool (IP), Outdoor Pool (OP), Hot Tub (HT), Sauna (S), Refrigerator (R), NCLUDING Microwave (M) (Microwave and Refrigerator indicated only if in majority of rooms), Kitchenette (K). All Wyoming area codes are 307.

MAP # HOTEL PHONE NUMBER PRICE BREAKFAST POOL/ NON OTHER CREDIT ROOMS RANGE HOT TUB SMOKE AMENITIES CARDS SAUNA ROOMS C ASPER

1 Shilo Inn 237-1335 101 $$/$$$ CB IP/HT Yes P Major S OUTHCENTRAL

1 Sleep Inn 235-3050 $$$$ CB IP Yes DA/M/R Major , R 1 C'mon Inn 472-6300 125 $$$$ CB IP/HT Yes DA/M/R Major IVERTON 1 Red Stone 234-9125 59 $$$ Yes Major 1 Holiday Inn Express 237-4200 84 $$$$ CB IP/HT Yes DA/M/R Major 1 Comfort Inn 235-3038 56 $$$ CB IP/HT Yes P/DA Major , L

3 Skyler Inn Extended Stay Suites 232-5100 66 $$ Yes P/D/R/M/K Major A NE AND ANDER 4 Yellowstone Motel 234-9174 17 $ Yes P/R/M/K Major REA 4 Virginian Motel 266-3959 18 $$ Yes P/DA/K D/M/V 4 Colonial House Motel 577-1263 20 $$ CB OP Yes P/K/M/R Major 4 Bel Air Motel 472-1930 10 $ Yes K M/V 5 Parkway Plaza Hotel & Convention Center 235-1777 300 $$$ IP Yes P/K/DA Major R

6 Best Western Ramkota 266-6000 229 $$$$ IP/HT Yes P/D/L/DA Major AWLINS 6 Hampton Inn 235-6668 122 $$$$ CB OP Yes DA Major 6 Holiday Inn 235-2531 200 $$$$ IP/HT/S Yes D/L/P Major 6 National 9 Inn 235-2711 47 $$ CB Yes P Major 6 Quality Inn & Suites 266-2400 92 $$$ CB Yes P/DA Major 6 Motel 6 234-3903 111 $$ OP Yes P/K Major 7 Ivy House Inn 265-0974 31 $ OP Yes P/K Major 8 Red Arrow Motel 234-5293 10 $ No P/M/R Major 9 CY Motel Complex 473-2202 9 $ CB Yes P/DA/M/R M/V 9 Westridge Motel 234-8911 28 $$ CB Yes P Major 10 Super 8 - Casper 266-3480 66 $$ CB Yes Major 10 All American Inn 235-6688 38 $ OP Yes P/M/R Major 10 Royal Inn 234-3501 36 $ OP Yes P/DA/K Major

11 Ranch House Motel 266-4044 12 $ Yes P Major Section 5 19 Days Inn 324-6615 118 $$ HT/IP Yes P/D/L/DA Major 19 Lodge at Rawlins 324-2783 132 $$ IP Yes P/D/L Major 19 Key Motel 324-2728 $ No 19 1st Choice Inn 328-1401 50 $ P V/M 19 Sleep Inn 328-1732 81 $/$$ Yes P Major 21 Super 8 Motel 328-0630 47 $$/$ Yes Major 21 Best Western Cottontree Inn 324-2737 122 $$ HT/IP/S Yes L/D/P/DA Major 21 Motel 7 324-2263 32 $ No P/D Major 21 Budget Inn 328-1600 62 $ CB Yes P/R/M Major 21 Bucking Horse Lodge 324-3471 42 $/$$ CB Yes P/R/M/K Major 21 Ideal Motel 324-3451 59 $ Yes P/R/M D/V/M/Major 21 Best Motel 324-3456 26 $ Yes P/R/M Major 22 Rawlins Motel 324-3456 24 $$ Yes P Major 26 348-7774 12 $$/$$$ CB Yes D/DA/R Major 28 Old Corral Hotel 745-5918 16 $$$ FB Yes L/P/D 28 Mountain View Historic Hotel 742-5476 6 $$$ Yes P/K/D Major 28 Friendly Motel 742-6033 8 $$ No L/DA/P Major 29 El Rancho 856-7455 24 $$ Yes P M/V 29 Vacher’s Bighorn Lodge 327-5110 13 $$$ P/K Major 29 Riverside Garage & Cabins 327-5361 9 $$ Yes P/K Major 30 Wolf Hotel 326-5525 9 $$ Yes L/D Major 30 Hacienda Motel 326-5751 32 $$ P/K V/M/D 30 Riviera Lodge 326-5651 30 $/$$ Yes P Major 30 Silver Moon Motel 326-5974 14 $$$ Yes P/K Major 31 Trampas Lodge 379-2280 18 $ P/R M/V 31 Golden Rule Motel 325-6525 21 $$ Yes P Major 33 Hell’s Half Acre 473-7773 11 $$ Yes P/DA/L/D Major 33 Motel 20/26 234-7205 3 $$ Yes K/P/R/M V/M 36 Desert Inn Motel 876-2373 52 $ P/K/R 36 Shoshoni Motel 876-2216 12 $ P M/V 37 Holiday Inn Riverton 856-8100 123 IP Yes D/L/P/DA Major 37 Comfort Inn 856-8900 63 $$$/$$$$ CB IP/HT Yes DA/M/R Major 37 Super 8 Motel 857-2400 32 $$ CB Yes P/DA Major 37 Thunderbird Motel 856-9201 45 $ Yes P/L Major www.ultimatewyoming.com 323 Motel Quick Reference—Continued Price Range: ($) Under $40 ; ($$) $40-$60; ($$$) $60-$80, ($$$$) Over $80. Pets [check with the motel for specific policies] (P), Dining (D), Lounge (L), Disabled Access (DA), Full Breakfast (FB), Cont. Breakfast (CB), Indoor Pool (IP), Outdoor Pool (OP), Hot Tub (HT), Sauna (S), Refrigerator (R), Microwave (M) (Microwave and Refrigerator indicated only if in majority of rooms), Kitchenette (K). All Wyoming area codes are 307.

MAP # HOTEL PHONE NUMBER PRICE BREAKFAST POOL/ NON OTHER CREDIT ROOMS RANGE HOT TUB SMOKE AMENITIES CARDS SAUNA ROOMS

37 Jackpine Motel 856-9251 19 $$ Yes Major 37 Roomers Motel 857-1735 16 $$ Yes P/DA Major 37 Inn El Rancho/ 856-7455 23 $$ Yes P/K Major 37 Sundowner Station—Motel 856-6503 61 $$ S Yes P/D/L Major 37 Hi Lo Motel 856-9223 23 $$ Yes P/R/M/K Major 38 Tomahawk Motor Lodge 856-9205 32 $$ Yes P/DA/K Major 38 Days Inn 856-9677 33 $$ Yes P Major 38 Driftwood Inn 856-4811 28 $$ Yes P/R/M Major All Wyoming Area Codes are 307 38 Mountain View Motel 856-2418 20 $ Yes P/K M/V 43 The Holiday Lodge National 9 Inn 332-2511 40 $$ CB HT Yes P/K Major 43 Pronghorn Lodge 332-3940 56 $$$/$$ CB HT Yes K/M/R/DA/P/D Major 43 Maverick Motel, Restaurant & Lounge 332-2300 31 $$ FB P/D/L/K Major 43 Western Motel 332-4270 13 $ K M/V 43 Rock Shop Inn 332-7396-1 8 $$ D/L/P Major 43 Silver Spur Motel 332-5189-1 25 $$ OP Yes P Major 43 Downtowner 332-3171 16 $ Yes P/R/M Major 43 Teton Motel 332-3582 16 $$ OP Yes P/K M/V 43 Horseshoe Motel 332-4915 15 $$ Yes K/D/L Major 45 JC Motel 544-9317 18 $ P 48 Sagebrush Motel 328-1584 8 $ No P V/M 60 Country Inn Motel 383-6448 11 $$ No P/R/M/K V/M 60 Drifters Inn 383-2015 41 $/$$ Yes P/D/L/R/M Major

NOTES: Section 5

324 Ultimate Wyoming Atlas and Travel Encyclopedia