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1 The Best of Montana & Wyoming

A mix of the rugged Wild West, the even more rugged Rocky Mountains, and a few almost-modern cities—or what we might call overgrown cow towns—make the states of Montana and Wyoming delightful vacation spots. This is especially true for people who savor outdoor adventures, but it’s also the case for those looking to discover a part of the United States that many of us have seen only in the movies and on television (and that’s a rather distorted view). Here you’ll find some of the most breathtaking scenery in America; a vast array of wildlife that not only thinks it owns the place, but actually does; and even some first-class Western-style lodges, restaurants, and museums. Following are what I consider some of the best experiences in Montana and Wyoming.

1 The Best Vacation Experiences • Glacier National Park (MT): The • Grand Teton National Park (WY): best vacation spot in Montana is also The Grand Tetons are an excellent the most obvious one. By the stan- short course in Rocky Mountain dard of other crowded national parks, parks for travelers with less time: this spectacular country is virtually magnificent peaks rising from the undiscovered. See chapter 5. Snake River plain, alpine lakes, wild- • Yellowstone National Park (WY): flowers, and wildlife, all in a relatively It’s the crown jewel of American small park that can be seen in a few parks, and it remains the prime days or combined with Jackson for a attraction in the Rocky Mountains. longer vacation. See “Grand Teton This unique park offers visitors an National Park” in chapter 12. extraordinary combination of wilder- ness, wildlife, and geothermal won- ders. See chapter 11. COPYRIGHTED MATERIAL 2 The Best Outdoor Adventures • Exploring the Bob Marshall Wil- See section 7, “The Bob Marshall derness (MT): The 1.5-million-acre Wilderness Complex,” in chapter 6. Bob Marshall Wilderness Complex in • Enjoying the Yellowstone Backcoun- northwest Montana is one of Amer- try (WY): Outfitters from ranches ica’s most spectacular wild places. Lace around Yellowstone National Park up your hiking boots, tie on your will take you into the deep wilderness bandanna, and take to the high coun- that surrounds the busy attractions at try in Montana’s northwest corner. the park’s center, and there you’ll get 05_255629 ch01.qxp 4/18/08 6:13 PM Page 5

THE BEST HOTELS & RESORTS 5 a flavor of the wild as rich as the along Slough Creek, or telemark ski- Rockies can offer. If you have experi- ing the powder around Shoshone ence, you can go on your own—pad- Lake. See chapter 11 for details. dling Yellowstone Lake, backpacking

3 The Best Wildlife Viewing • Glacier National Park (MT): The Complex, roam a full complement of experience of watching wildlife amid Rocky Mountain wildlife—although the imposing terrain of Glacier you have to wander into the back- National Park is tough to beat. With country to find it. See section 7, “The a little energy, you can see mountain Bob Marshall Wilderness Complex,” goats, moose, elk, and other native in chapter 6. animals in their natural habitat. Keep • The Lamar Valley (WY): You can see a good distance, and be aware of all wildlife in many parts of Yellowstone, bear restrictions and regulations—the including the meadows across from grizzly is the park’s unofficial mascot. the Old Faithful complex. But the See chapter 5. richest trove of wildlife is in the park’s • The Bob Marshall Wilderness northeast corner, in the valley nick- Complex (MT): Just south of Gla- named “The Serengeti of North cier, in the Bob Marshall Wilderness America.” See chapter 11.

4 The Best Winter Vacations • Skiing at Whitefish Mountain increasingly popular, and it’s bound Resort (MT; & 800/858-5439): be even more so now that the With an annual snowfall of 300 Old Faithful Snow Lodge has been inches, a vertical drop of 2,500 feet, a transformed into a handsome, com- superpipe for the snowboarding fortable facility. You can take a snow- crowd, and virtually no lines, White- coach into the park, or cross-country fish Mountain is one of the best ski ski or snowshoe to the Lonestar areas in the northwestern United Geyser and other attractions. See States. See p. 134. p. 305. • Skiing at Big Sky and Moonlight • Skiing at Jackson Hole Mountain Basin (MT; & 800/548-4486 or Resort (WY; & 307/733-2292): 877/822-0430): Big Sky and the Jackson Hole offers a vertical drop much newer Moonlight Basin have that will take your breath away. There connected their trail systems, making are a variety of ways to get to the bot- for a combined 5,300 acres of ter- tom, from double black diamonds to rain—the largest ski area in the coun- intermediate slopes. Skiers who like a try, not to mention the one with the challenge should come here and mix most vertical drop. See p. 229. the visit with some ballooning, tours • Wintering at Old Faithful (WY): of the elk refuge, and other adven- The chilly season in Yellowstone is tures. See p. 313.

5 The Best Hotels & Resorts • Many Glacier Hotel (Glacier National about Many Glacier, apart from its Park, MT; & 406/892-2525; www. elegant mien, friendly service, and glacierparkinc.com): The best thing cozy rooms, is the setting; it sits along 05_255629 ch01.qxp 4/18/08 6:13 PM Page 6

6 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF MONTANA & WYOMING Montana

CANADA KOOTENAIKOOTENAI MONTANA EEurekaureka GLACIER 89 BLACKFEET NATIONALNATIONAL 37 FLATHEADFLATHEAD NATIONAL FORESTFOREST NATIONALNATIONAL INDIAN FORESTFOREST PARK RESERVATION 93 2 2 WhitefishWhitefish West Glacier LLibbyibby East Glacier Bear Paw Battlefield Fort Union Elmo St. Pk. National 2 HHungryungry Lake Historic Site Kalispell 15 HorseHorse Conrad Elwell ReservoirReservoir 87 Bear Creek MMONTANA O 200 89 Fort Rec. Area N SSwanwan LLakeake Benton IIDAHO T LOLOLOLO FFlatheadlathead D A NNat’lat’l WWildlifeildlife RRef.ef. A N LakeLake Choteau Rock Creek H A NATIONALNATIONAL O Rec. Area FORESTFOREST 80 FFLATHEADLATHEAD PPolsonolson LEWISLEWIS ANDAND CCLARKLARK IINDIANNDIAN Nelson Creek NATIONALNATIONAL FFORESTOREST Augusta LEWIS AND CLARK Rec. Area RRESERVATIONESERVATION NATIONAL FOREST NinepipeNinepipe GreatGreat 200 Nat’lNat’l WildlifeWildlife Ref.Ref. FallsFalls SSuperioruperior LLOLOOLO 200 15 200 83 NATIONALNATIONAL 200 A COEURCOEUR D’ALENED’ALENE 87 T

FORESTFOREST O

NATIONALNATIONAL FORESTFOREST 89 K

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90 NATIONAL FOREST O HelenaHelena FFORESTOREST N LOLOLOLO
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FORESTFOREST I 0 30 mi CHALLISCHALLIS IDAHO FOREST O M H NATIONALNATIONAL O Yellowstone A Y

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0 30 km IDAHO I

Swiftcurrent Lake and in the shadows historic spot that proves that a hotel of Mount Grinnell and Mount doesn’t need to sprawl all over the Wilbur. See p. 83. place to set the highest standard of • The Pollard (Red Lodge, MT; comfort and elegance. See p. 240. & 800/765-5273; www.thepollard. • Old Faithful Inn (Yellowstone net): You can join Buffalo Bill on National Park, WY; & 307/344-7311; the guest register at The Pollard, a www.travelyellowstone.com): If you 05_255629 ch01.qxp 4/18/08 6:13 PM Page 7

THE BEST HOTELS & RESORTS 7

CANADA 5 KOOTENAI Eureka MONTANA Scobey 16 NATIONAL FLATHEAD 24 FOREST NATIONAL FOREST 13 2 Fort Belknap 2 FORT PECK Whitefish Havre Nelson M Libby BBearear PPawaw BBattlefieldattlefield Reservoir ilk FortFort UnionUnion R INDIAN RESERVATION NationalNational iv Hungry ROCKY BOYS FORT BELKNAP er 2 HistoricHistoric SSiteite ver Horse INDIAN RES. INDIAN RES. Mi i Ri Reservoir Fort Peck ssour 66 BBearear CreekCreek 16 200 M 191 O U.L. Bend National RRec.ec. AreaArea 13 N Swan Lake I T LOLO Flathead Wildlife Refuge D A Nat’l Wildlife Ref. 200 A N Lake iver RRockock CCreekreek H NATIONAL i R A sour O Mis RRec.ec. AArearea FOREST FLATHEAD Polson Fort Peck LEWIS AND CLARK Charles M. Russell Lake INDIAN Devil’s Creek NelsonNelson CreekCreek NATIONAL FOREST Nat’l Wildlife Rec. Area Rec.Rec. AreaArea 16 RESERVATION Refuge 200 Ninepipe Great Crooked Creek 200S Glendive Nat’l Wildlife Ref. Falls Rec. Area Jordan LOLO 81 191 Superior 200

NATIONAL 87 A COEUR D’ALENE 200 94 T

FOREST O

NATIONAL FOREST 59 K

Lewistown A

D DAKOTA

Missoula LEWIS AND CLARK

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NATIONALNATIONAL FFORESTOREST O NO Helena FOREST N LOLO Canyon Martinsdale 191 12 12 NATIONAL Ferry Harlowtown Miles City White FOREST Lake Roundup DEERLODGE Sulphur 1 94 Philipsburg NATIONAL Springs M GALLATIN 87 59 I O FOREST Missouri D N A Anaconda Headwaters St. Pk. NATIONAL H T A BITTERROOT O FOREST Ekalaka N A NATIONAL LLittleittle Powderville FOREST Billings 90 BBighornighorn BBattlefieldattlefield Ashland

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NATIONAL Gateway NNATIONALATIONAL 310 BIGHORNBIGHORN CANYONCANYON FOREST 59 212 212 Tongue

FORESTFOREST NATIONALNATIONAL REC.REC. AREAAREA Big Sky R River i RedRed LodgeLodge Biddle v CUSTERCUSTER Bighorn Reservoir e r MONTANA Gardiner CookeCooke CityCity NATIONALNATIONAL FFORESTOREST Lake WYOMING SALMON NATIONAL FOREST West 59 Yellowstone 212 789 16 BEAVERHEAD YELLOWSTONE 310 14 NATIONAL FOREST BBuffalouffalo BBillill 90 SALMON NATIONAL SStatetate PParkark 789 BBIGHORNIGHORN 59 NATIONAL PARK Cody G 14 NNATIONALATIONAL N 90 FOREST I 16 Gillette CHALLIS 20 FORESTFOREST O M H NATIONAL O A Y

TARGHEE NATIONAL FOREST D FOREST W I 16

ever wonder whether there’s really art ceiling. You can find peace in the in architecture, look at the way the upper balconies, or join the convivial rustic simplicity and monumental crowds around the big stone fireplace structure of this inn make a perfect fit below. See p. 304. just across the way from one of • Four Seasons Resort Jackson Hole nature’s most astonishing creations. A (Jackson, WY; & 307/732-5000; lattice of logs climbs to an 85-foot www.fourseasons.com/jacksonhole): 05_255629 ch01.qxp 4/18/08 6:13 PM Page 8

8 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF MONTANA & WYOMING Wyoming GardinerGardiner CookeCooke CityCity GGardinerardiner CookeCooke CityCity MONTANA WYOMING Mammoth 212 Springs Jct. 789 BIGHORN SSHOSHONEHOSHONE YYELLOWSTONEELLOWSTONE Powell Lovell NATIONAL

A BLACK HILLS NNATIONALATIONAL FOREST 14 N BBuffalouffalo BBillill 310 A NATIONALNATIONAL NATIONAL T SStatetate PParkark N FFORESTOREST 789 FOREST

O PARKPARK

MMONTANA Cody BIGHORN 14 14 Yellowstone 16 20 20 WYOMING Shoshone 16 Greybull NATIONAL Lake Lake EastEast EntranceEntrance Buffalo Bill IDAHO (Open(Open MayMay 11–– Reservoir FOREST Lewis Nov.Nov. 1)1) Lake 89 Heart Lake 191 SouthSouth EntranceEntrance (Open(Open MayMay 1–1– Nov.Nov. 1)1) 287 Worland GRANDGRAND JJohnohn DD.. 16 RockefellerRockefeller Jr.Jr. SSHOSHONEHOSHONE TETONTETON BBRIDGER-TETONRIDGER-TETON Mem.Mem. PkwyPkwy NNATIONALATIONAL NAT’LNAT’L FFORESTOREST NNATIONALATIONAL PARKPARK Moran Jct. ( FFORESTOREST 89 Cl Hot Springs TetonTeton os ed State Park VillageVillage in w MMooseoose in Thermopolis ter Dubois ) WIND RIVER 789 JJacksonackson BBRIDGER-RIDGER- Wind River INDIAN 20 26 RESERVATION 287 Boysen Boysen State Park TTETONETON Reservoir 191 26 Pavillion 89 Ocean 189 Bull Lake Shoshoni Lake 20 NNATIONALATIONAL Kinnear 26 FremontFremont LakeLake Fort Washakie Riverton

287 BRIDGERBRIDGER FFORESTOREST Lander TETONTETON 191 SSHOSHONEHOSHONE Sinks Canyon State Park NATIONALNATIONAL NNATIONALATIONAL 789 FORESTFOREST 28 FFORESTOREST MEDICINE BOW 189 287 NATIONAL

Big Sandy FOREST Reservoir

Fontenelle Reservoir Big Sandy Rec. Area

IDAHO 28 Fossil Butte WYOMING Nat’l Mon. UTAH 191 Rawlins Kemmerer 372

Granger 80 Rock Springs Woodruff 189 Narrows MEDICINE Reservoir 789 430 BOW 191 80 NATIONAL 0 20 mi Evanston FLAMING FOREST 530 GORGE MEDICINE BOW NAT’L REC. 0 20 km NATIONAL FOREST AREA Baggs 05_255629 ch01.qxp 4/18/08 6:13 PM Page 9

THE BEST HOTELS & RESORTS 9

Gardiner Cooke City Gardiner Cooke City WYOMING 90 112 59 Devils Tower SHOSHONE Sheridan THUNDER BASIN Nat’l YELLOWSTONE 16 NAT’L Monument A NATIONAL BBLACKLACK HHILLSILLS N Buffalo Bill GRASSLAND A NATIONAL NNATIONALATIONAL T State Park N FOREST Devils Tower Jct. FORESTFOREST

O PARK

M 14 BBIGHORNIGHORN Sundance 59 East Entrance NATIONALNATIONAL Buffalo 90 (Open May 1– FFORESTOREST Gillette 90 Nov. 1) 16 90

South Entrance 196 59 (Open May 1– Nov. 1) GRAND John D. 15 50 Newcastle Rockefeller Jr. SHOSHONE TETON BRIDGER-TETON Mem. Pkwy NATIONAL NAT’L NATIONAL Mayoworth 450 FOREST 191 PARK 450 ( FOREST Cl Teton os 387 THUNDER ed Barnum 190 85 Village in w BASIN Moose int er) 387 NAT’L Jackson BRIDGER- Edgerton GRASSLAND

259 TETON

Lance Creek NATIONAL 87 Edness Kimball 59 Fremont Lake 20 Wilkins State Park 270 18 26 BRIDGER FOREST 25 20 TETON Casper SHOSHONE 18 NATIONAL NATIONAL FOREST Alcova 270 FOREST MMEDICINEEDICINE BBOWOW Glendo 85 Reservoir 220 NNATIONALATIONAL Pathfinder Fort Reservoir 77 FFORESTOREST Laramie 487 26

Seminoe Reservoir Torrington

Medicine Bow 30 RRawlinsawlins 287 287 Chugwater

25

Saratoga 80 MEDICINEMEDICINE 87 85 Laramie BOWBOW Curt Gowdy Centennial Cheyenne NATIONALNATIONAL 210 State Park
80 FORESTFOREST 30 MEDICINEMEDICINE BBOWOW 230 NNATIONALATIONAL FORESTFOREST 05_255629 ch01.qxp 4/18/08 6:13 PM Page 10

10 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF MONTANA & WYOMING The newest—and most deluxe— inn.com): Centered on a serene and lodging option in Teton Village, the green courtyard, the new and ultrastylish Four Seasons opened in improved Chamberlin Inn is now December 2004 and immediately set Cody’s best lodging option, just a a new standard for ski-in, ski-out lux- block from the center of town and ury. See p. 322. featuring charming historic rooms • Jenny Lake Lodge (Grand Teton and apartment units. Of special note National Park, WY; & 800/628- is the Hemingway Suite—“Papa” 9988; www.gtlc.com): My favorite stayed here in 1932. See p. 360. property in any national park, this • The Occidental Hotel (Buffalo, WY; lodge justifiably prides itself on seclu- & 307/684-0451; www.occidental sion, award-winning food, and the wyoming.com): Born as a tent in individual attention that comes with 1878, The Occidental has burned to a cabin resort kept intentionally the ground and been lost in a poker small. The property is a hybrid of game in its storied history. After 8 mountain-lake resort and dude years and a $1.8-million restoration, ranch, with various extras included in the grand hotel reopened in 2002. its prices. See p. 347. See p. 383. • The Chamberlin Inn (Cody, WY; & 888/587-0202; www.chamberlin

6 The Best Guest Ranches • Triple Creek Ranch (Darby, MT; beautiful view of the Tetons on one & 406/821-4600; www.triplecreek side and the Gros Ventres on the ranch.com): This place is wonderful. other, Lost Creek layers on the com- It’s pretty much the perfect guest forts and activities. You can ride, ranch, where guests are pampered hike, swim, fish, float, play tennis like European royalty, and the prices and billiards, shoot skeet, and eat reflect it. It has all the traditional gourmet food. Regulars return every dude ranch activities, as well as a pool year. There are only 10 cabins, but if and a fitness room. See p. 110. you can get a reservation, it’s worth it. • Lone Mountain Ranch (Big Sky, See p. 324. MT; & 800/514-4644; www.lm • Eatons’ Ranch (Wolf, WY; & 800/ ranch.com): Lone Mountain Ranch 210-1049; www.eatonsranch.com): is a winter and summer resort that This is the country’s oldest guest has views into the Spanish Peaks ranch, and one of the best. Founded Wilderness Area. In winter there are by Howard Eaton (the namesake of 45 miles of cross-country trails over the Howard Eaton Trail in Yellow- terrain that will challenge every level stone), the ranch got its start in of skier. In summer, you can ride, North Dakota in 1882 before relocat- hike, fish, or simply relax and eat in ing in 1904 to remote and rugged the popular restaurant. There are bird Wolf Creek Canyon, about 20 miles walks with naturalists and forays into west of Sheridan and a picture-per- Yellowstone. See p. 231. fect spot for a dude ranch. The third • Lost Creek Ranch (Moose, WY; through fifth generations of Eatons & 307/733-3435; www.lostcreek. now run the ranch, which has repeat com): Positioned next door to a guests year after year. See p. 380. national park and possessing a 05_255629 ch01.qxp 4/18/08 6:13 PM Page 11

THE BEST RESTAURANTS 11

7 The Best Bed & Breakfasts • The Garden Wall Inn (Whitefish, • Bentwood Inn (Jackson, WY; MT; & 888/530-1700; www.garden & 307/739-1411; www.bentwood wallinn.com): This delightful B&B, inn.com): This B&B is an architec- built in the 1920s, is full of charm— tural marvel: a 6,000-square-foot log all of the furnishings are period mansion with 43 corners. See p. 321. antiques, including claw-foot tubs • Wildflower Inn (Jackson, WY; and Art Deco dressers. Gourmet & 307/722-4710; www.jacksonhole breakfasts include specialties such as wildflower.com): A terrific B&B on 3 wild huckleberry crepes. See p. 137. lush and secluded acres near Teton • The Sanders B&B (Helena, MT; Village, the Wildflower Inn features & 406/442-3309; www.sandersbb. comfortable and luxurious rooms com): Built in 1875, this historically named after local wildflowers, with important B&B has been beautifully private decks, exposed logs, and a restored. You’ll relax on original fur- remarkable sense of privacy. See niture under the eyes of portraits p. 322. hung by the original owner, U.S. Sen. • Spahn’s Big Horn Mountain Bed Wilbur Fiske Sanders. See p. 156. and Breakfast (Big Horn, WY; • The Symmes-Wick House (Lewis- & 307/674-8150; www.bighorn- town, MT; & 406/538-9068): wyoming.com): With a 100-mile Charles and Carole Wicks have beau- view from a secluded peak tucked tifully restored this 1909 shingle-style amid the Bighorn Mountains, this Arts-and-Crafts home, which sits rustic hideaway features a massive right in the heart of the Silk Stocking three-story living area and rooms dec- District. Though you can easily see orated with country quilts and lodge- the stately exteriors of all of the sur- pole furniture. See p. 379. rounding homes, a stay here provides • Nagle Warren Mansion Bed & the unique opportunity to view the Breakfast (Cheyenne, WY; & 800/ inside of one, replete with rich hard- 811-2610; www.naglewarrenmansion. wood floors, Tiffany glass, and period com): Originally built in 1888 by antiques. famed architect Erasmus Nagle (it • The Lehrkind Mansion Bed & was the first house in the state with Breakfast (Bozeman, MT; & 800/ indoor plumbing), the mansion was 992-6932): Located in the Historic converted into an elegant bed-and- Bozeman Brewery District, the Lehr- breakfast in 1997. Grand and spa- kind Mansion looks like something cious, the three-story structure oozes out of a fairy tale. Everything is luxury, from the furnishings (almost period, from the rare 1897 Regina exclusively regional antiques) to the music box in the parlor to the many stately spire that anchors the build- original fixtures in the bathrooms. ing’s southeast corner. See p. 402. See p. 220.

8 The Best Restaurants • Cafe Kandahar (Whitefish, MT; Chef Andy Blanton uses as much & 406/862-6247): Inspired by local produce and meat as he can in French and Creole traditions but such creations as seared elk roulade more than willing to experiment, with forest mushroom, but he also 05_255629 ch01.qxp 4/18/08 6:13 PM Page 12

12 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF MONTANA & WYOMING experiments with far-flung influences the region, with delicious game in a number of creative seafood and dishes, such as grilled elk loin in pep- pasta dishes. See p. 141. percorn sauce, and fresh seafood • The Dining Room at Chico Hot flown in daily. See p. 325. Springs (Pray, MT; & 800/468- • Jenny Lake Lodge Dining Room 9232): The vegetables served here are (Grand Teton National Park; & 307/ grown at the resort’s own greenhouse. 733-4647): The five-course dinners The game is raised here, and it’s here (from prime rib of buffalo to served expertly, along with beef, smoked sturgeon ravioli) are so good lamb, and other Rocky Mountain sta- you might be distracted from the ples. Portions are generous and beau- spectacular scenery just outside the tifully presented. See p. 237. window. You may be roughing it in • The Blue Lion (Jackson, WY; & 307/ the park, but you’ll need to dress 733-3912): This is an old stalwart, properly at this establishment. See still serving some of the best food in p. 349.

9 The Best Fly-Fishing • The Madison (MT): Brown trout around Yellowstone. See chapters 9 aren’t native to this area, but no one’s and 11. asking them to leave; on this popular • The Snake (WY): It seems somehow river running from Yellowstone fitting that the menacing-sounding National Park into Montana, they’re Snake River is home to a feisty strain the big attraction. The Madison con- of cutthroat trout, making it one of verges with its “holy trinity” counter- the most satisfying Western rivers to parts, the Jefferson and Gallatin, near fish. See chapter 12. Three Forks, but lots of anglers fish it

10 The Best Golf Courses • Old Works (Anaconda, MT): Jack golf course in the country—except Nicklaus has created a course that is maybe the neighboring Jackson Hole as much fun to play as it is beautiful club—with the granite Grand Teton to look at. The course wonderfully looming over every shot. See p. 315. integrates the rocky bluffs, the his- • The Powder Horn (Sheridan, WY): toric nature of the old copper-pro- Under the majestic Bighorn Moun- cessing sites, and prairie grasses and tains, this gorgeous 27-hole course sage. See p. 161. mixes Scottish-style golf, wide-open • Teton Pines (Jackson, WY): You won’t fairways, and some serious target find a more beautiful view from any practice. See p. 377.

11 The Best Museums • Lewis & Clark National Historic the Pacific Ocean. Films, lectures, Trail Interpretive Center (Great and demonstrations are among the Falls, MT; & 406/727-8733): This offerings. See p. 192. offers a great perspective on the • Museum of the Rockies (Bozeman, “Corps of Discovery,” from its con- MT; & 406/994-2251): The center- ception back East to its endpoint at piece of this first-rate museum is the the mouth of the Columbia River at fabulous dinosaur exhibit. The 05_255629 ch01.qxp 4/18/08 6:13 PM Page 13

THE BEST PERFORMING ARTS & CULTURAL FESTIVALS 13 exhibit, which just had a stellar • National Historic Trails Interpre- makeover, has made the place one of tive Center (Casper, WY; & 307/ the premiere paleontological attrac- 261-7700): This excellent facility tions in the world. See p. 218. uses state-of-the-art exhibits to give • Buffalo Bill Historical Center modern travelers an idea of what life (Cody, WY; & 307/587-4771): An on the “road” was like for the emi- art museum, a firearm gallery, the grants who passed through here in memorabilia of the West’s great the mid-1800s on the Oregon, Mor- showman, and exhibits about the mon, California, and Pony Express Plains Indians comprise the finest trails. See p. 390. museum in the Rocky Mountains. See p. 358.

12 The Best Performing Arts & Cultural Festivals • International Wildlife Film Festival for the bowlegged and horse-drawn (Missoula, MT; & 406/728-9380): set. In addition to a healthy dose of This film festival has become a range rhyme, there are booths full of required festival for international leather and arts-and-crafts shows. See filmmakers who specialize in wildlife. p. 199. It goes for a week, from early to mid- • Cheyenne Frontier Days (Chey- May, and includes panel discussions enne, WY; & 800/227-6336): The and workshops, as well as screenings “Daddy of ’em All,” Cheyenne Fron- of the world’s best wildlife films. See tier Days is a 10-day Western specta- p. 98. cle of parades, rodeo, dances, and • Montana Cowboy Poetry Gather- concerts. It’s safe to say that this is the ing (Lewistown, MT; & 406/538- most vivid demonstration of Western 5436): Held each year in mid- hospitality you’ll encounter in the August, this is a rhyming good time modern world. See p. 398.