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“A Stronger Focus on Health and Safety”

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“A Stronger Focus on Health and Safety” www.cossma.com | E51280 12/2020 INTENSIFIED Effects of liquid crystals in formulations p 16 NETWORKED New strategy to find partners p 48 “A STRONGER FOCUS ON HEALTH AND SAFETY” Andrew McDougall, Associate Director Beauty & Personal Care Mintel p 58 Brings together aesthetic medicine and professional beauty care! www.beauty-forum.com/mb-try 766-19_EA_Magazin_medBF_210_engl.indd 1 07.10.20 08:32 EDITORIAL Great results ooking back at 2020, the year can best be summed up with the words ‘turbu- FOLLOW COSSMA ON: lent and exciting’. Both privately and in business life, there were many chan- Lges and numerous cuts that we had to deal with. Yet all of these events, no matter how unpredictable they were, never left us in a state of shock. It is remark- able how much creativity and commitment the so-called ‘new normal’ has facili- tated. I am all the more pleased that our current focus “Innovative Concepts” from www.cossma.com page 8 onwards presents interesting new developments that have been brought about this year. The wealth of ideas runs through the entire beauty industry: whether it be breaking new ground at events (p 46), finding business partners (p 48) or designing special eye-catching packaging (p 52). Yes, Coronavirus has changed our business (p 58), www.linkedin.com/company/cossma-digital but it has also motivated us to new ways of thinking. And we should definitely take this motivation with us into the new year and continue to benefit from it next year and beyond. I wish you happy holidays and a good start into a hopefully healthy 2021! www.twitter.com/cossmamagazine Sincerely yours, www.youtube.de/cossmatv Georg von Griesheim, Managing Director www.cossma.com l 3 Contents COSSMA 12/2020 7 MARKETS & 14 Anaïs Hecker, Omya: COMPANIES Smooth & white 07 News 16 Léa Couillault, Seppic: Effects of liquid crystals 10 GO FUTURE: 23 Michelle Strutton, Mintel: INNOVATIVE International product CONCEPTS launches 12 Stefan Fellner, Premium Organic: Power of the moore 24 INGREDIENTS 26 Karine Deruddre, Ashland: Increasing naturality level 30 Òscar Expósito, Vytrus Biotech: Wellbeing & body odour 34 Formulations: Creams, Lotions, Exfoliants 35 News Ingredients 36 GREEN PACKAGING 26 Increasing naturality level 36 Ulrich Krzyminski, Beyond Plastic: Future of packaging 4 l COSSMA 12I2020 8–23 Innovative cosmetic concepts of 2020 52 New packaging ideas 46 Interview with Cathy Laporte, SERVICES Reed Exhibitions: 3 Editorial Predictable increase in quality 6 Download List 48 Interview with Udo Eberlein, 61 Events Diary Chemster: 62 Suppliers‘ Guide Finding new partners digitally 65 Advertisers’ Index 66 Preview/Imprint 50 PACKAGING 52 Andrea Wildies, STI Group: Gift season all year round 56 Interview with Antonia Benvegnù: Rethink processes 46 Changes at trade fairs 58 PERSONALITIES & PROFILES 58 Interview with Andrew 38 MARKETING McDougall, Mintel: How Corona changed cosmetics Front cover picture: 40 Market Survey: Andrew McDougall, Mintel Group Service Providers 60 News: Personalities & Profiles Background: Imageflow/Shutterstock.com www.cossma.com l 5 SERVICES Free Downloads for subscribers | www.cossma.com/download CLICK THROUGH OUR WEB TV CLIPS: WWW.COSSMA.COM/TV CHRISTOPH KNOKE CAROLINE MOULIN ERWIN SCHUSTER Managing Director Germany, Founder, Nao Design Trends Head of Market Segment New Information Resources about the influence of “K-Beauty” on Markets and APAC, Geka about how an e-commerce panel works. packaging trends. about his company’s innovations in sustainable packaging. DR JOHN BELL MATTEO MORETTI DR CHARLOTTE ZECH VP, R&D External Innovation, President of Polo Cosmesi Managing Director, Johnson & Johnson about the Italian association Polo Faber-Castell Cosmetics explains the “Flash Cosmetic Pitch”. Cosmesi and green packaging. about future trends in cosmetic pencils sourcing sustainable ingredients. LOG IN AND TAKE FULL ADVANTAGE! On the COSSMA website, we post lots of additional information related to the topics covered in the magazine. You will find more than 1,000 useful additional items to extend your knowledge and understanding: more information on the ingredients and finished products that we cover; market data and statistics; supplier listings; literature references; scientific articles; product formulations and useful base formulations. Search for the topics you are interested in at www.cossma.com Shutterstock.comKiuikson, photo: 6 l COSSMA 12I2020 www.cossma.com MARKETS & COMPANIES News NEW INTERNAL TRAINING CENTRE SILAB | After two years of construction work, the company is receiving the keys to its new building on its single site in Brive (France), which includes a centre for inter- nal training. This contemporary architec- VIRTUAL EVENT tural structure with a surface of 4,500 sqm WECOSMOPROF | The second edition of the digital event is on four levels and with an amphitheatre. of the international network Cosmoprof Worldwide Bologna, Integration ended with excellent results. Over 40,000 operators visited the event from 5 – 18 October, and more than 500 compa- completed nies presented their products on “Cosmoprof My Match”, “WeCosmoprof x Alibaba.com”, “WeCosmoprof x Born”, and DKSH | By integrating “WeCosmoprof x Needl” platforms, taking advantage of the specialty chemicals dis- services specifically made available by the organisers to tributor Axieo, the com- meet the needs of individual sectors. pany has gained broa- www.wecosmoprof.com der market coverage and customer reach in the The new facility offers training opportunities. Asia Pacific region and now assumes a leading This facility, which is dedicated to continu- role in the Australian ing education, demonstrates the company’s strong commitment to developing talent in COLLABORATING: a scientific and technological environment CRODA AND ENTEKNO driven by innovation. www.silab.fr CRODA | The company announces its collaborative part- nership with Entekno Materials, which will herald a step change in solar protection. Croda has become a minority The market coverage in Find the right chemistry shareholder as well as the company’s exclusive route to the Asia Pacific region has grown through the NOURYON | A long-term partnership with integration of Axieo. Dutch soccer club AFC Ajax is signed. The agreement unites Nouryon and the Dutch and New Zealand mar- soccer club AFC Ajax with a strong focus kets. The expansion in- on a sustainable future. Together they want cludes two innovation to launch a local program with a focus on centres in collabora- education. The two also share a connection tion with the renowned through Nouryon’s essential chemistry, Monash University in which is used in everything from the spor- Melbourne, bringing the ting equipment used by soccer teams to DKSH global network of the construction of the stadiums where innovation centres to 46 they play. worldwide. www.nouryon.com www.dksh.com In their collaboration, Croda and Entekno want to concen- trate on the development of inorganic sunscreens. market for the Personal Care industry. They will also become an R&D partner, focused on driving innovation and delive- ring inorganic sunscreens to the market. Entekno Materials is a Turkish company focused on the development of a “New Charlie Shaver, Chairman and CEO of Nouryon Generation of Particle Technology”. (left) and Menno Geelen from Ajax Amsterdam www.croda.com celebrate the long-term partnership. NouryonDKSH,Silab, Croda, WeCosmoprof, photos: www.cossma.com l 7 Business/Shutterstock.com Lucky Kotin/Shutterstock.com photos: photo: 8 l COSSMA 12I2020 www.cossma.com GO FUTURE Innovative concepts Power of the moor . p 10 Smooth & white . p 14 Effects of liquid crystals . p 16 International launches . p 23 www.cossma.com l 9 GO FUTURE: INNOVATIVE CONCEPTS Power of the moor Ingredients | The active ingredient peloid, which comes from a new shade of natural healing moors, has been used in the medical field for a long time. In-vivo and in-vitro studies have dealt with the effectiveness in the schülke´s line of natural and nature-identical products cosmetic field and have achieved clear results. is growing with three new products for preservation and protection of personal care products. euxyl® ECO 910 - Fresh product protection with carefully selected natural oil N N Stefan Fellner, eloid has been indicated for the which concentrates the healing pro- Founder and CEO, Premium treatment of chronic rheumatic perties of medicinal peloid in a pure effisin® LA natural - Easy to handle organic acid solution Organic, Carinthia, Austria, Pprocesses, degenerative osteo- and potent form. It was sustai- with antimicrobial activity www.premium-organic.com arthrosis, sequelae of osteo-articular nably extracted from an organic pe- effisin® PG natural - Multifunctional ingredient with excel- injuries, fractures, dislocations, dis- loid of an accredited healing moor orders following vasculopathies, der- deposit at 500m above sea level in lent safety profile and great skin moisturizing properties matological diseases, etc¹. Austria. Schülke & Mayr GmbH Cosmetic peloids have an essential A series of in-vitro studies was per- 22840 Norderstedt | Germany | Tel. +49 40 521 00-0 | Fax -244 function in the maintenance of healthy formed to investigate skin barrier www.schuelke.com | [email protected] and pro-aged skin. The objective was enhancement, wound healing factors schülke Personal Care to investigate and demonstrate the and anti-inflammatory efficacy, while dermocosmetic properties of paten- pro-ageing, soothing and cleansing ted Alpine Heilmoor Extract (AHE). efficacy of cosmetic grade AHE were AHE is a micronised dark powder determined in in-vivo clinical stu- Organic Premium graphs: motorclassic/Shutterstock.com, photo: we protect lives worldwide 10 l COSSMA 12I2020 www.cossma.com ANZ_Personal Care_210x145mm_10.2020_COSSMA.indd 1 03.11.20 21:05 GO FUTURE: INNOVATIVE CONCEPTS dies. AHE was also investigated for promoting collective and directional its skin acceptability and future use. migration of epithelial cells2. E-cad- herin was found to be expressed in Materials and methods two isoforms of different molecular A series of in-vitro studies with weight: E-cadherin B1 (120kDa) and HaCaT cells and reconstructed hu- E-cadherin B2 (90-100kDa).
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