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Love and Money Shores in September L L MEDIA: MEDIA:Peter BEAUTY: Magazine ad Arnell on shedding Marc Jacobs outlook? Two more than 300 pounds covers up for meaningless — and advertising, his Bang words: page 8. fragrance in “cautiously London, L optimistic,” page 5. L FASHION:Erin Wasson page 9. L exits Rvca line, page 10. Women’s Wear Daily • The Retailers’ Daily Newspaper • July 23, 2010 • $3.00 WWDFRIDAYBeauty Love and Money Few subjects engender as much passion as cash and l’amour manage to stir up — making them natural as fragrance names and concepts. Lanvin’s Marry Me and Chloé’s Love, Chloé take on the romance side, while Paco Rabanne’s Lady Million addresses the wealth question. Marry Me and Love, Chloé bow in Europe in August, while Lady Million hits U.S. shores in September. For more, see page 4. Consumers, Get Ready: Inflation Could Return To the World of Fashion By Evan Clark LIFE IS GETTING MORE EXPENSIVE in the fashion world, and consumers could get stuck with some of the bill. “The era of apparel deflation is now over,” said Richard Noll, chairman and chief executive officer of Hanesbrands Inc. Cotton prices are up more than 50 percent from a year ago, labor and transportation expenses are rising and factories that closed during the recession remain dark, keeping a cap on supply as demand perks up. To top it off, Chinese officials have become more willing to allow the yuan to appreciate against the dollar, which could make goods made in the country even more expensive. “You’re starting to see price increases come through the entire supply chain, not just from See Producers, Page11 PHOTO BY GEORGE CHINSEE; STYLED BY REBECCA TULIS GEORGE CHINSEE; STYLED BY PHOTO BY 2 WWD, FRIDAY, JULY 23, 2010 WWD.COM Tod’s Sales Rise 5.2% in Half By Luisa Zargani therefore, the analysis of the sales trends is not fully meaningful.” MILAN — Tod’s SpA said Thursday that revenues Dollar figures are converted at average ex- WWDFRIDAYBeauty in the six months ended June 30 rose 5.2 percent change rates for the periods to which they refer. to 377.5 million euros, or $502 million, driven by Footwear continues to be the group’s core GENERAL gains in the U.S. and Asia, as well as the core business, as sales of the category rose 8.3 per- 1 The fashion industry is preparing for growing footwear business. cent to 282.4 million euros, or $375.6 million, expenses because of what Eric Wiseman, Profit figures were not released. Full first-half in the period. The leather goods and acces- chairman and ceo of VF Corp., described as an financial results will be presented Aug. 26. sories division showed a 2.4 percent decline apparent “pause” in the economic recovery. Chairman and chief executive officer Diego to 57.8 million euros, or $76.8 million. Sales Della Valle defined the group’s first-half fig- of apparel edged down 3.7 percent to 37 mil- 4 BEAUTY: Two years after introducing its ures as “extremely good,” noting sales posted lion euros, or $49.2 million. However, the firm blockbuster 1 Million men’s scent, Paco Rabanne a strong acceleration in the second quarter, in said the period showed “positive results for Parfums is launching Lady Million. particular in the company’s own stores. “These the Hogan apparel collections.” Della Valle’s Peter Arnell, known for creative branding solutions numbers are even more positive if considering priority is growing Hogan’s two-year apparel 8 for such companies as Donna Karan, DKNY and the demanding base of comparison,” he said. business, which, until last spring, was de- Emanuel Emanuel Ungaro, has turned his focus By label, the Tod’s brand saw sales rise 8.4 signed by Thakoon Panichgul. It is now in the percent to 195.9 million euros, or $260 million, hands of a design team. on rebranding himself. accounting for more than half of group rev- Geographically, sales in Italy were up 1.6 per- Ask magazine publishers about the outlook for enues. Hogan sales grew 4.2 percent to 137.5 cent to 203.7 million euros, or $270.9 million. In 9 the rest of the year and they all use the same two million euros, or $182.8 million. Apparel brand the rest of Europe, revenues totaled 80.3 million anodyne words: “Cautiously optimistic.” Fay showed an 11 percent decline to 34.3 mil- euros, or $106.8 million, a 3.4 percent gain com- lion euros, or $45.6 million, affected by a differ- pared with the same period last year. U.S. rev- 10 A private memorial service for Lee Alexander ent timing in spring-summer deliveries, said the enues grew 11.2 percent to 25.5 million euros, or McQueen will take place during London Fashion company. Sales of Roger Vivier rose 28.3 percent $33.9 million. Aggregate revenues for the rest of Week on Sept. 20. to 9.5 million euros, or $12.6 million. However, the world rose 17.3 percent to 68 million euros, L EYE the company said the brand “is still in a start- or $90.4 million, led by China, Hong Kong, South 12 up phase, focused on preserving its exclusivity; Korea and Taiwan. Wednesday night’s Cinema Society and Sony Alpha Nex 5-sponsored screening of “Get Low” had stars Robert Duvall and Sissy Spacek both Kevin Kline showed up looking appropriately put together. Damiani, Galliano Set to Collaborate Classified Advertisements.................................................................................................11 TO E-MAIL REPORTERS AND EDITORS AT WWD, THE ADDRESS IS By Alessandra Ilari fident that Minoli’s compe- [email protected], USING THE INDIVIDUAL’S NAME. tence and experience will WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. COPYRIGHT ©2010 MILAN — Damiani SpA bring a significant contri- FAIRCHILD FASHION GROUP. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. VOLUME 200, NO. 16. WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) is published daily (except for Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one on Thursday unveiled bution to the company,” additional issue in January, May, June, October and December, two additional issues in March, April, August, September and a partnership with said Guido Damiani, chair- November, and three additional issues in February) by Fairchild Fashion Group, which is a division of Advance Magazine Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by Condé Nast: John Galliano to pro- Damiani and John Galliano are man and ceo of the publicly S. I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, President/CEO; John W. Bellando, Executive Vice President/COO; duce jewelry for the partnering to produce jewelry. listed jewelry company. Jill Bright, Executive Vice President/Human Resources. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY, and at additional designer’s eponymous Damiani posted a net loss of mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 886549096-RT0001. Canada Post: return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: P.O. Box 503, RPO West Beaver Cre, brand. 18.2 million euros, or $23.5 mil- Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6 POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North This confirms a WWD lion at current exchange, Hollywood, CA 91615–5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: report in April. in the fiscal year ended Please write to WWD, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008, call 800-289-0273, or visit www.subnow.com/wd. Please give both new and old addresses as printed on most recent label. Subscribers: If the Post Office alerts us that The first collection, which March 31, as revenues your magazine is undeliverable, we have no further obligation unless we receive a corrected address within one year. If melds luxury with the idea dropped 2.7 percent to 145.8 during your subscription term or up to one year after the magazine becomes undeliverable, you are ever dissatisfied with of a modern treasure trove, million euros, or $188 million. your subscription, let us know. You will receive a full refund on all unmailed issues. First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production correspondence to WOMEN’S comprises five pieces — a Besides a slew of in-house lines WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions and reprint requests, please call 212-630-4274 ring, three pairs of earrings that include Damiani, Salvini and or fax requests to 212-630-4280. Visit us online at www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild magazines on the and a necklace — initially only Bliss, the Milanese jeweler makes World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these available in the Galliano boutique in jewelry for Jil Sander, Martin offers and/or information, please advise us at P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. Paris. Besides Japanese pearls, the Margiela, Gianfranco Ferré, Ferrari, WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS OF, OR FOR DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND stones employed include white and Ducati and Maserati under license. TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART black diamonds, peridot, red tourma- Minoli is ceo of Mantero Finanziaria, WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED line, smoky quartz and onyx.
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