Love and Money Shores in September

PHOTO BY GEORGE CHINSEE; STYLED BY REBECCA TULIS WWD Love and Money shores in September. For more, seepage4. Millionhits U.S. whileLady Chloé bowinEurope inAugust, MeandLove, Million addresses thewealth question.Marry Chloé take ontheromance side,whilePaco Rabanne’s Lady l’amour and cash as MeandChloé’s Love, Marry names and concepts.Lanvin’s passion much as manage to stir up — making them naturalengender as fragrance subjects Few through the entire supply chain, not just from evenmoreexpensive. country dollar, whichcouldmakegoodsmadeinthe to allowtheyuanappreciateagainst off, Chineseofficialshavebecomemore willing cap onsupplyasdemandperksup.To top it during the recession remain dark, keeping a expenses are rising and factories that closed from a year ago, labor and transportation executive officerofHanesbrandsInc. over,” andchief saidRichardNoll,chairman stuck withsomeofthebill. in thefashionworld,andconsumerscouldget LIFE IS GETTING MORE EXPENSIVE By EvanClark To the World of Fashion of World the To Inflation CouldReturn Consumers, GetReady: Women’s Wear Daily • The Retailers’ Daily Newspaper • July 23, 2010 • $3.00 “You’re starting to see price increases come Cotton pricesareupmorethan50percent “The era of apparel deflation is now page 9. optimistic,” “cautiously words: meaningless outlook? Two Magazine ad MEDIA: L See

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London, BEAUTY: L 2 WWD, FRIDAY, JULY 23, 2010 WWD.COM Tod’s Sales Rise 5.2% in Half By Luisa Zargani therefore, the analysis of the sales trends is not fully meaningful.” MILAN — Tod’s SpA said Thursday that revenues Dollar figures are converted at average ex- WWDFRIDAYBeauty in the six months ended June 30 rose 5.2 percent change rates for the periods to which they refer. to 377.5 million euros, or $502 million, driven by Footwear continues to be the group’s core GENERAL gains in the U.S. and Asia, as well as the core business, as sales of the category rose 8.3 per- 1 The fashion industry is preparing for growing footwear business. cent to 282.4 million euros, or $375.6 million, expenses because of what Eric Wiseman, Profit figures were not released. Full first-half in the period. The leather goods and acces- chairman and ceo of VF Corp., described as an financial results will be presented Aug. 26. sories division showed a 2.4 percent decline apparent “pause” in the economic recovery. Chairman and chief executive officer Diego to 57.8 million euros, or $76.8 million. Sales Della Valle defined the group’s first-half fig- of apparel edged down 3.7 percent to 37 mil- 4 BEAUTY: Two years after introducing its ures as “extremely good,” noting sales posted lion euros, or $49.2 million. However, the firm blockbuster 1 Million men’s scent, Paco Rabanne a strong acceleration in the second quarter, in said the period showed “positive results for Parfums is launching Lady Million. particular in the company’s own stores. “These the Hogan apparel collections.” Della Valle’s Peter Arnell, known for creative branding solutions numbers are even more positive if considering priority is growing Hogan’s two-year apparel 8 for such companies as Donna Karan, DKNY and the demanding base of comparison,” he said. business, which, until last spring, was de- Emanuel Emanuel Ungaro, has turned his focus By label, the Tod’s brand saw sales rise 8.4 signed by Thakoon Panichgul. It is now in the percent to 195.9 million euros, or $260 million, hands of a design team. on rebranding himself. accounting for more than half of group rev- Geographically, sales in Italy were up 1.6 per- Ask magazine publishers about the outlook for enues. Hogan sales grew 4.2 percent to 137.5 cent to 203.7 million euros, or $270.9 million. In 9 the rest of the year and they all use the same two million euros, or $182.8 million. Apparel brand the rest of Europe, revenues totaled 80.3 million anodyne words: “Cautiously optimistic.” Fay showed an 11 percent decline to 34.3 mil- euros, or $106.8 million, a 3.4 percent gain com- lion euros, or $45.6 million, affected by a differ- pared with the same period last year. U.S. rev- 10 A private memorial service for Lee Alexander ent timing in spring-summer deliveries, said the enues grew 11.2 percent to 25.5 million euros, or McQueen will take place during London Fashion company. Sales of Roger Vivier rose 28.3 percent $33.9 million. Aggregate revenues for the rest of Week on Sept. 20. to 9.5 million euros, or $12.6 million. However, the world rose 17.3 percent to 68 million euros,

L EYE the company said the brand “is still in a start- or $90.4 million, led by China, Hong Kong, South 12 up phase, focused on preserving its exclusivity; Korea and Taiwan. Wednesday night’s Cinema Society and Sony Alpha Nex 5-sponsored screening of “Get Low” had stars Robert Duvall and Sissy Spacek both Kevin Kline showed up looking appropriately put together.

Damiani, Galliano Set to Collaborate Classified Advertisements...... 11 TO E-MAIL REPORTERS AND EDITORS AT WWD, THE ADDRESS IS By Alessandra Ilari fident that Minoli’s compe- [email protected], USING THE INDIVIDUAL’S NAME. tence and experience will WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. COPYRIGHT ©2010 MILAN — Damiani SpA bring a significant contri- FAIRCHILD FASHION GROUP. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. VOLUME 200, NO. 16. WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) is published daily (except for Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one on Thursday unveiled bution to the company,” additional issue in January, May, June, October and December, two additional issues in March, April, August, September and a partnership with said Guido Damiani, chair- November, and three additional issues in February) by Fairchild Fashion Group, which is a division of Advance Magazine Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by Condé Nast: John Galliano to pro- Damiani and John Galliano are man and ceo of the publicly S. I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, President/CEO; John W. Bellando, Executive Vice President/COO; duce jewelry for the partnering to produce jewelry. listed jewelry company. Jill Bright, Executive Vice President/Human Resources. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY, and at additional designer’s eponymous Damiani posted a net loss of mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 886549096-RT0001. Canada Post: return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: P.O. Box 503, RPO West Beaver Cre, brand. 18.2 million euros, or $23.5 mil- Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6 POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North This confirms a WWD lion at current exchange, Hollywood, CA 91615–5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: report in April. in the fiscal year ended Please write to WWD, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008, call 800-289-0273, or visit www.subnow.com/wd. Please give both new and old addresses as printed on most recent label. Subscribers: If the Post Office alerts us that The first collection, which March 31, as revenues your magazine is undeliverable, we have no further obligation unless we receive a corrected address within one year. If melds luxury with the idea dropped 2.7 percent to 145.8 during your subscription term or up to one year after the magazine becomes undeliverable, you are ever dissatisfied with of a modern treasure trove, million euros, or $188 million. your subscription, let us know. You will receive a full refund on all unmailed issues. First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production correspondence to WOMEN’S comprises five pieces — a Besides a slew of in-house lines WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions and reprint requests, please call 212-630-4274 ring, three pairs of earrings that include Damiani, Salvini and or fax requests to 212-630-4280. Visit us online at www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild magazines on the and a necklace — initially only Bliss, the Milanese jeweler makes World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these available in the Galliano boutique in jewelry for Jil Sander, Martin offers and/or information, please advise us at P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. Paris. Besides Japanese pearls, the Margiela, Gianfranco Ferré, Ferrari, WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS OF, OR FOR DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND stones employed include white and Ducati and Maserati under license. TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART black diamonds, peridot, red tourma- Minoli is ceo of Mantero Finanziaria, WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED line, smoky quartz and onyx. the umbrella company of Gruppo TO DO SO BY WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED A first-year sales forecast was un- Mantero that produces fabrics, apparel MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE. available and the prices of the exclusive and accessories. Minoli stepped down pieces are upon request. from Pomellato in October 2009 and was Meanwhile, Damiani has appointed succeeded by Andrea Morante, an entre- DAILY Francesco Minoli, formerly chief execu- preneur-cum-investment banker. tive officer of Pomellato, as a director of Ironically, in 2002 Damiani acquired QUOTE The era of apparel its board. an 18 percent stake in Pomellato, a move “ “With an eye on the future devel- that at the time Minoli viewed with deflation is now over. opment of our business, we are con- skepticism and annoyance. —” Richard Noll, chairman and chief executive officer of Hanesbrands Inc. Page one.

Cibani to Depart Ports 1961 Post CORRECTION By Marc Karimzadeh A photo caption with Joseph Abboud was incorrect on page 10, Tia Thursday. It should have read Joseph Abboud and other executives. NEW YORK — Tia Cibani, who was instrumental in the creation of Cibani the Ports 1961 label, is stepping down from her role as creative director at the end of this month TODAY ON Fiona Cibani, her sister and creative partner whose main focus has been the Ports International brand, will now also take over the creative director post for Ports 1961. “We applaud Tia for her contributions in giving the Ports 1961 brand a unique and distinctive identity during her five years as cre- .COM ative director,” said Ports 1961 president Jacqui Wenzel. “She leaves WWD a solid foundation in place and a readily identifiable aesthetic that is appreciated by a deeply loyal following around the world. We wish her well in her future endeavors.” Tia Cibani joined Ports in 1990, working with DSquared’s • Additional images from Dean and Dan Caten, who were heading the design team then. the “Get Low” premiere She moved to Xiamen, China, in 1993 to oversee the development • Today in Fashion: They of the brand there, and only returned in 2003 to head the North Are Wearing – Some American launch of the Ports 1961 label. Over the past five years, Like It Hot

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I[fj[cX[h(&&-rHWbf^BWkh[d PHOTO BY GEORGE CHINSEE 4 WWD, FRIDAY, JULY 23, 2010 The Beauty Report Paco Rabanne Brings Its Millions to U.S. P A R I S — Two years after introducing its blockbuster 1 campaign for Lady Million, shot by Nathaniel Goldberg, Million men’s scent in most parts of the world, Paco will mostly run as single pages. Rabanne Parfums is now launching a sister fragrance, L a d y Million is the first floral fragrance for Paco called Lady Million, globally. Rabanne. International Flavors & Fragrance’s Anne Flipo, T h e masterbrand will be sold in the U.S. exclusively at Béatrice Piquet and Dominique Ropion concocted its Sephora, marking Paco Rabanne Parfums’ return to that fresh fl oral woody scent. Top notes include bitter orange, market. The Puig-owned label has not introduced a fra- raspberry and neroli. In Lady Million’s middle are orange grance in the U.S. in 10 years. blossom, Arabian jasmine and gardenia, while in the base S i n c e its 2008 launch, 1 Million has become market there are patchouli, amber and honey notes. Following a leader in countries where it has a mid-July introduction in France, Lady presence, and its business by the end Million in September is to be launched of June was growing 54 percent year- elsewhere in Europe, the U.S., Middle over-year, according to José Manuel East, Latin America and Asia. Albesa, chief brand offi cer of Puig. At P u i g executives would not divulge such a pace, he said 1 Million could sales projections, but industry sourc- close the year with wholesale rev- es estimate Lady Million will gener- enues of about 130 million euros, or ate 65 million euros, or $83.8 mil- $167.6 million at current exchange, lion, in fi rst-year wholesale revenues outside the U.S. worldwide. T h e concept for Lady Million came T h e eau de parfum spray comes in naturally, said Albesa. “We just tried 30-, 50- and 80-ml. sizes, which are to to fi nd what would be the counterpart retail in France for 43 euros, 61 euros of the 1 Million man,” he explained, and 79 euros, respectively, or $55.40, The Marry Me ad. adding notions of Bonnie and Clyde $78.60 and $101.80. Ancillaries will in- or Mr. and Mrs. Smith sprang to mind. clude a 150-ml.-size shower gel, body W h e r e a s the 1 Million bottle lotion and deodorant, each priced at 22 is shaped like a gold ingot, Lady euros, or $28.35. Million’s takes a diamond form. Noé I n the U.S., the 1 Million and Lanvin’s Duchaufour-Lawrance created both. Lady Million masterbrand will be For the flacon’s design, executives sold in Sephora — including its J.C. were inspired by Rabanne’s gold-col- Penney locations and through its Web ored, geometric dresses. site — starting in the second half of Proposal “ W e wanted to have something The print ad. September. very architectural,” said Albesa. “ I t was important to come in the L O N D O N — Lanvin has a fragrant proposition D r e e Hemingway was signed on to U.S. with the right business model to in the pipeline for fall. star in Lady Million’s advertising. (Hemingway will also [reintroduce] this brand,” said Didier Maine de Biran, T h e fashion brand and Inter Parfums, its star in ads for Ferragamo’s Attimo fragrance this fall.) general manager of Puig USA. Paco Rabanne currently fragrance license holder, will introduce Marry Ten-, 20- and 30-second fi lm spots, destined for televi- retails just its Pour Homme scent there. Me, a scent for women, starting in late August. sion and Internet, were produced by Mademoiselle Noï. T h e masterbrand campaign will be used in the U.S. W h i l e its moniker is suggestive of a mat- In it, Hemingway conjures up magical wishes — like “We’re also going to use a very strong digital plan to com- rimonial bent, Philippe Benacin, chairman shoes, men and jewelry — with the snap of a fi nger. In municate with our customers,” said de Biran, without di- and chief executive offi cer of Inter Parfums the masterbrand’s fi lm, featuring both Hemingway and vulging details. SA, said the fragrance was not conceived to Matt Gordon, each tries to out-wish the other in spots that N o r would he discuss sales estimates. But industry cater to the bridal market. Rather, its name come in 20- and 30-second formats. sources project the masterbrand will make $25 million in is a celebration of happiness and complicity. I n certain countries, Lady Million will be teased with wholesale revenues during its fi rst year in the U.S. B e n a c i n , who took inspiration for the ads primarily featuring 1 Million. Meanwhile, the print — Jennifer Weil name from a Japanese photography book, said the scent will likely appeal in particular to women in Japan and the Far East, where Lanvin’s fragrance business generates about half of its annual sales. “ I t ’ s very kawaii [cute, in Japanese],” he A Thing Called Love for Chloé added. “Of course, everybody is free to offer it as a gift and understand what they want P A R I S — Love, Chloé — the new women’s fragrance from [from the name.]” Chloé that’s due out starting in late August — is a mix of The S u b l i m i n a l scented messages aside, Marry something old and something new. Love, Me was concocted with a 20- to 28-year-old P l a y i n g on its Parisian heritage, it’s meant to be a dis- Chloé target audience in mind. tillation of today’s on-the-go Chloé woman, according to ad. “ I t ’ s very young, fresh and modern,” said Françoise Mariez, senior vice president of marketing for Benacin. “It’s romantic and poetic.” European licenses at Coty Prestige, a division of Coty T h e scent, blended by Givaudan’s Antoine Inc., which holds the Chloé fragrance license. Maisondieu, comprises top notes of bitter or- L o v e , Chloé comes two years after the Chloé signature ange, jasmine tea, white peach and freesia. scent was launched in spring 2008. Both are fl orals, but At its heart are jasmine absolute, magnolia whereas Chloé has more of an olfactive emphasis on a and rose petal notes, while amber, white ce- rose note, the new scent’s juice has a retro powdery, cos- darwood and musk notes are in its drydown. metic effect. T h e eau de parfum will be available as I t ’ s an element that was key for the fashion house’s 30-, 50- and 75-ml. sprays priced in the U.K. creative director Hannah MacGibbon, who was involved at 32 pounds, 47.50 pounds and 59.50 pounds, in every aspect of the fragrance project. Ezra Petronio respectively, or $48.86, $72.50 and $90.85 at was its creative director. current exchange. “ H a n n a h MacGibbon was really crazy about this cos- T h e fragrance’s packaging, designed by metic feeling; at the beginning, she provided us with pow- easy portability, said Mariez. Cent Degrés with input from Alber Elbaz, der,” said Mariez. L o v e , Chloé’s name is supposed to be a signature of Lanvin’s artistic director, plays on elements L o v e , Chloé’s juice, concocted by Givaudan perfumers sorts, she continued. of the fashion brand’s heritage. The glass Louise Turner and Nathalie Cetto-Gracia, has top notes “ I t ’ s a mix of tenderness, joyfulness, but also the as- bottle, for instance, is faceted to recall the including orange blossom and pink pepper. In the heart sertiveness of the [Chloé] woman,” she added. shape of a bow, a detail often associated are notes of iris absolute, lilac, hyacinth, wisteria blos- T h e new scent will be launched exclusively at with Lanvin designs. A fuchsia satin bow is som and heliotropine. While notes of musks, talc and rice Harrods in the U.K. on Aug. 22 and will then be intro- attached to the neck of the fl acon, which is powder are in the base. duced in all other markets starting in September, except topped with an asymmetric cap. A television advertisement for Love, Chloé was direct- for the U.S., where there will be an exclusive at Saks M a r r y Me’s print advertising, shot by ed by Roman Coppola and features Raquel Zimmermann Fifth Avenue starting in mid-October. Germany will get David Bellemere, depicts a young couple striding joyfully through a day in the French capital. In Love, Chloé in February 2011. perched atop a bicycle in a Parisian park. the 20- and 30-second spots, she’s in numerous locales, C o t y executives would not discuss sales projections, There will also be a television campaign, as including on the Pont Alexandre III. but industry sources estimate Love, Chloé will generate well as a sampling drive, including minia- “ T h e TV spot is a mix of very modern with a touch of $50 million in fi rst-year wholesale revenues worldwide. tures and vials. vintage,” said Mariez. T h e Love, Chloé line is to include 30-, 50- and 75-ml. I n d u s t r y sources estimate Marry Me Single- and double-page print ads were shot by Inez eau de parfum sprays, which are to retail in France will generate 25 million euros, or $32.2 mil- Van Lamsweerde and Vinoodh Matadin. for 53 euros, 72 euros and 91.80 euros, respectively, or lion, in retail sales from September through I t ’ s back to the future, too, with the design of Love, $68.20, $92.65 and $118.10. December. It will bow in Europe, the Far Chloé’s fl acon, which was inspired by an old bottle. It has There will also be a 200-ml. body lotion for 36 euros, East and Middle East in late August and a metal plaque at its base and a chain affi xing the cap to or $46.30; a 200-ml. shower gel for 30.80 euros, or $39.65, September before rolling out to the U.S. and the bottle’s neck. The fl acon’s thin glass is meant to give and a 100-ml. deodorant for 26.60 euros, or $34.25. South America in 2011. a feeling of preciousness, and its shape was devised for — J.W. — Brid Costello WWD, FRIDAY, JULY 23, 2010 5

WWD.COM Marc Jacobs Perry Sparkles At Scent Soiree HOLDING COURT IN A CUSTOM-MADE LATEX DRESS festooned with musical notes (“The Girl From Ipanema,” should you want to play the tune), towering black stilettos and a purple wig, Katy Perry unveiled Purr, her new fragrance, on Thursday evening at Manhattan’s Andaz Fifth Avenue. Calling herself “a pain in the ass when it came to doing this,” Perry noted she wasn’t afraid to demand excellence. In fact, the ﬁnal bottle wasn’t presented, as it’s “90 percent, but not 100 percent, done,” so a prototype was unveiled. “You can put all the bells and whistles on things, and it can still smell like s--t,” Perry told the group of about 25 beauty editors and Nordstrom executives. “I was very particular about this.…I couldn’t put out something that I didn’t 100 percent believe in. Even my cat, Kitty Purry, likes it.” And make no mistake, she doesn’t plan to worry about traditional fragrance trappings such as gifts-with-purchase. “There’s no way I’m going to give a janky-ass bag away to the consumer I think is buying this awesome product,” she said ﬁrmly. “Or, ‘here’s a free umbrella, but you live in Phoenix.’ No. I want people to feel like they’re getting value in a product again, especially being partners with Nordstrom. I don’t want to be associated with cheap, because I think you can still get quality at a good price. When people unwrap this, I want them to be impressed with the bottle and think that it will be a cute little tchotchke even when the bottle’s empty.” The ads, being shot today by Miles Aldrich, involve “costumes and fun ideas,” said Perry, declining to reveal more details. And as for the oft-asked question — “How’s the wedding planning going?” — Perry joked, “Go to hell,” before turning serious, noting that between her new album, her new perfume and her planned nuptials, “there’s a lot to take care of. My schedule is always planning one thing or another, and sleep.” — Julie Naughton

Katy Perry

Mischa Daisy Barton Lowe

Jesus Luz British Bash Marks Jacobs’ Bang Launch By Brid Costello LONDON — The launch of Bang, Marc Jacobs’ latest fragrance, went off, well, with a bang at Harvey Nichols department store here Thursday night. Model-cum-DJ Jesus Luz spun a thumping soundtrack as PYTs, including Daisy Lowe, Jaime Winstone and Diana Vickers, sipped cocktails and awaited the arrival of the designer, who received a rock-star welcome. (The crowd also went wild when Luz played a Madonna track to wrap up his set.) If canapés seemed to do several rounds of the soiree before being nibbled, it was perhaps because partygoers were conscious of their waistlines, having gotten an eyeful of Bang’s advertisement, which stars a very toned Jacobs in the buff. AQUINO

“More power to him if he’s got the balls to do it,” said Mischa Barton of the ad, which JOHN Y B

also features a strategically placed factice. “I think it’s a cool statement.” Y Beth Ditto, who knows a thing or two about the subject of baring it all, having posed in the nude for the cover of Love magazine, offered her two cents on how to look good naked. PERR “Stand up, don’t sit down,” she said, while holding court with popstrel Pixie Lott in the

party’s VIP section as Jake Shears took over DJing duties. JENKINS;

Winstone, meanwhile, proclaimed she would only strip to promote a scent if it was called TIM Y B Naked and Beautiful. Standing next to his image, Jacobs was unabashed.

“I’ve exposed myself to that point and beyond many times,” he said with a grin. “It’s not PHOTOS Erin the ﬁrst time I’ve taken my clothes off for a picture.”

O’Connor — With contributions from Lucie Greene JACOBS 6 WWD, FRIDAY, JULY 23, 2010 The Beauty Report Standouts Launch at Sold-out Show Cosmoprof Spotlights Beauty Rebound The throngs of new products at Cosmoprof tended to center on a few scorching trends, including frizz-free items, gel nails and media partnerships. Below, some of the standouts in a sea of copycats. By Rachel Brown what retailers are doing to reach them were top- ics discussed during a panel entitled “Behind the — R.B. IN THE AIR-CONDITIONED OASIS OF THE Retail Door — The Reality Check,” moderated by Mandalay Bay Convention Center in Las Vegas, a this reporter. Panelist David Altman, founder and ANTIAGING HAIR CARE: Following Ken Paves’ SelfHelp Collection number of beauty trends — frizz-busting salon ser- chief executive offi cer of MarketShare Advisors and Redken’s Time Reset launch into antiaging hair care, Zotos vices, gel-polish manicures, antiaging hair care, LLC, (and former senior vice president, general International is leaping into the segment with an eight-item line Argan oil and its ballooning constellation of rela- manager, Bath & Body Works Direct) pointed out called AGEbeautiful, hitting shelves in August. Zotos’ vice president tives, among them — were generating enough heat the aspirational customer has disappeared — of core brands, Bruce Selan, stressed the line would be a value-priced to almost contend with outside temperatures top- and may not return — despite luxury perking up. alternative at roughly $7.99 to $8.99. “This is not a line for the 60- ping 110 degrees. Panelist Claudia Lucas, former senior vice presi- plus. It is for the 30-plus because hair starts to age from 30 on,” he At the eighth annual Cosmoprof North America dent and general merchandise manager for beauty said. Selan added that Zotos, which he said experienced its “best trade show, held here from Sunday to Tuesday, at Henri Bendel, who is now consulting for Rue La fi rst half in our history,” is also launching 28 shades of professional the force of these trends spotlighted pockets of La, an invitation-only online boutique, suggested permanent hair color under the AGEbeautiful label as well. strength as the beauty industry rebounds from the the drivers in the current market can’t be pigeon- depths of the recession, even while uncertainty holed into luxury or other segments, but rather ANTIFRIZZ SALON SERVICES: Salon Tech’s new Keratin Straightening persists with unrelenting high unemployment and frequently fi t a broader “masstige” profi le. System has three steps: an Activating Cleanser, Thermal Keratin stock-market oscillations. The show’s 700 exhibi- Panelist and former Walgreens vice president, Treatment and Keratin Concealing Mask. At a presentation on the tors demonstrated to attendees — from distributors general merchandise manager Kathy Steirly paint- system, Salon Tech national sales manager, Lee Ann McColl, said to retailers to salon and spa it addresses concerns about dry hair and hair loss with its ability owners to packaging experts, to be washed out at the salon, and white clay, an ingredient that totaling around 25,000 versus Items from the protects against heat. She declared the system gives off the least 22,500 last year — that cash- Barista Bath & formaldehyde fumes on the market, but said the company will strapped consumers will spend Body line. later release a fume extractor and a completely formaldehyde-free on beauty when an innovative straightening system to eliminate those fumes that do exist. service or product offers dis- cernible advantages over the ARGAN OIL: In what Vanessa Solomon, president of Colomer USA’s humdrum fare. multicultural group, said is a fi rst for the mass market, the Crème of Beauty industry figures Nature brand is this month introducing Argan oil in fi ve products — are looking better. Salon Gloss & Shine Polisher, Replenishing Sheen Spray, Foaming Wrap and spa owners surveyed Lotion, Gloss & Shine Mist and Intensive Conditioning Treatment by the Professional Beauty — priced from $1.50 to $7.15. “What we are hearing from our Association reported a 3.7 per- customers is, ‘This is something we want, but we can’t afford,’” she cent and 0.4 percent jump in said of the Argan oil products available to date. fi rst-quarter service and retail sales, respectively. Chicago- GEL POLISH: LeChat Nail Care Products presented Perfect Match, a soak-off formula gel polish product, in six of its most popular shades to a packed Cosmoprof booth. Gina Dominguez, an educator for the Hercules, Calif.-based company, said the four-step application process takes six to 10 minutes, and one of Perfect Match’s main TO THE POINT point of difference to competitors is price, which runs about $5 less than others on a wholesale basis. LeChat nail lacquers correspond • Salons showed a 3.7 percent jump in with its gel polish colors for touch-ups. fi rst-quarter service sales and a 0.4 percent jump in fi rst-quarter retail sales. MOVIE COLLABORATION: For holiday, nail polish specialist OPI Products ed a picture of a tough road for upstart brands Inc. is launching a collection of glitters and shimmers associated • Mass beauty sales driven by nail care to break through at drugstores. Steirly, who is with the Sony Pictures fi lm “Burlesque” starring Christina Aguilera (+9 percent) and eye makeup (+6.7 percent). founder and ceo of Kathy Steirly Associates LLC, and Cher opening nationwide Nov. 24. Bottles explained that the stockkeeping optimization ef- will retail for $8.50 and be sold across OPI’s • Napoleon Perdis to enter Dillard’s. forts in drugstores caused buyers to turn to private distribution network that includes professional label programs for newness and that much of the salons, Beauty Brands, J.C. Penney, Regis, focus for drugstore and mass market executives is Trade Secret and Ulta. OPI president and • Newcomer Barista Bath & Body awarded on food to attract return visitors. chief executive offi cer George Schaeffer said “most likely to succeed.” Despite the uphill battle to gain a foothold in fi lm partnerships lead to robust performance stores, newcomers to Cosmoprof said they re- at the brand. “Alice sold out in less than ceived a warm welcome, and retailers checking 70 days, literally. We did millions,” he said, based research fi rm SymphonyIRI Group’s year- out the latest crop of brands gave positive reviews. referring to a collection of polishes inspired over-year data for supermarkets, drugstores and “I had the opportunity to meet individually with by the movie “Alice in Wonderland.” mass market stores excluding Wal-Mart revealed a dozen emerging brands as part of Cosmoprof ’s growth in soaps (up nearly 5.6 percent), facial cos- Discover Beauty Program,” said Coe-Hutshing, TV LICENSE: Under a licensing agreement metics (2.56 percent), nail (9.92 percent) and eye cos- referring to Cosmoprof ’s program highlighting with ABC, HairUWear is introducing a metics (6.77 percent), although bath products (-4.77 emerging brands. “I would say the overall caliber “Dancing With the Stars” collection of percent), women’s fragrances (-5.03 percent), lip cos- of brands this year was the best and most profes- hair pieces and clip-in extensions in metics (-5.38 percent) and skin care (-0.48 percent) sional — i.e., market ready — ever.” 12 colors priced from $10 to $49. foundered. Coffee-inspired brand Barista Bath and Body, Anne Buhrdorf, HairUWear’s director Still, the industry remains in fl ux. Bumble and priced from $4.50 for lip balm to $150 for gift sets, of marketing retail, said an infomercial bumble’s entrance into Sephora — a shot across claimed Discover Beauty’s award given to the featuring the collection is scheduled to the bow for salon owners fi ghting to keep profes- Discovery Beauty exhibitor believed to have the premiere in September or October. A sional hair care brands in their channel — illus- greatest ability to succeed in the marketplace. collection affi liated with a similar BBC trates that traditional industry walls are coming Barista’s eight debut products tap into the benefi ts of program in the U.K., “Strictly Come down. Speculation at Cosmoprof about the move coffee — the brand asserts it can be an effective exfo- Dancing,” will also be released. focused on whether there’d be a Bumble and bum- liant and astringent, for example — and feature play- ble backlash from salons, and whether other pro- ful names that are twists on coffee terms, such as the NATURAL BEAUTY: Neuma, a hair care fessional hair care brands would follow. Industry Triple Shot shower gel and Make Mine Black soap. line containing certifi ed organic extracts veterans were split on the former and were confi - Christine Willett, ceo of Barista Bath and Body with the tag line “Beautiful Sustainable” dent that Bumble and bumble would be emulated. marketer CMN Products Inc., said she didn’t know marketed by the manufacturer Cosway OPI’s Bring on the Bling. “As long as Bumble maintains its prestige dis- what to expect at Cosmoprof but was pleased by the Co., was unveiled at Cosmoprof with 23 tribution, if I were a salon owner, I wouldn’t get response from beauty retailers and spas that viewed stockkeeping units ranging from $18 rid of it,” said Shawn Tavakoli, owner of Beauty the brand, which could eventually partner with a to $60. Tommy Dionisio, vice president of Cosway, said, “There is a Collection, a Los Angeles-area beauty retailer coffee brand, including Henri Bendel and Red Door. whole white space for something that marries health, sustainability that has salon services. “Bumble’s effort at being “The reception we got from buyers [indicated] that and performance.” He singled out the line’s Argan Treatment, Moisture in prestige retailers is to create a point of conve- they are looking for a full, new brand,” she said. Shampoo and Moisture Condition products as its stars. nience for consumers to fi nd the product rather For established brands, expansion is often than through diverted channels….That is probably being propelled by opportunities arising in the TAKE A SHOT: Continuing efforts to boost Bed Head’s shampoo and very helpful for the brand.” wake of the recession. Napoleon Perdis said conditioner business, Tigi in September is launching Styleshots Robin Coe-Hutshing, founder of Studio his namesake cosmetics brand is heading into shampoo and conditioner for the brand in Epic Volume, Hi-Def Curls BeautyMix at Fred Segal in Santa Monica, Calif., Dillard’s to take over space left vacant due to and Extreme Straight varieties, priced from $15.95 to $16.95. a longtime vendor of Bumble and bumble prod- Prescriptives’ shuttering. He added that addition- “They will start working on your end style in the shower,” said Lynne ucts, agreed convenience should be the priority. al U.S. distribution would soon come from Stage McNelis, Tigi’s vice president of marketing. In the Rockaholic brand, “Brands need to serve their customers. If the cus- Stores and Von Maur. Tweezerman ceo Conny Tigi plans to build upon the success of Dirty Secret Dry Shampoo, tomer base expands, the brand needs to expand Wittke said the beauty tools company is making which McNelis said is within Tigi’s top 10 products across all brands, with them. Customers are very savvy. They know a “big push” for its $20 ProCurl Eyelash Curler to with $19.95 Dirty Secret Dry Conditioner launching next month. “The how to use these products. They don’t need a ‘pro- capture business from the Eyelash Curler by Shu [dry] shampoo helps get rid of your oil at the root level. What you will fessional’ to show them how to do it,” she said. Uemura, the L’Oréal-owned brand that ceased U.S. do is use the dry conditioner at the bottoms to contain fl y aways and The nature of today’s beauty customers and operations earlier this year. messiness,” explained McNelis. WWD, FRIDAY, JULY 23, 2010 7

The Beauty Report WWD.COM Seasonal, Impulse Items Sought to Lift Sales SNIPPETS NEW YORK — Retailers and manufacturers came to the Karmin has off-shelf merchandising solutions for BEAUTY APP FOR THAT: To make sure cosmetics and sun care Efficient Program Planning big-box chains as well as small stores. “We give fixtur- scheduling a beauty appointment is Sessions, held last week at the Sanibel Harbour ing that produces big profits that buyers can sell man- “as easy as that,” the founders of Marriott in Fort Myers, Fla., looking for ideas that can agement on,” he said. “You have to change up what must-visit Mizu New York salon have snap shoppers back into a buying mood. you sell so when customers come in, they always see created a customized application At the cosmetics show, retailers’ picks included something new. You need a wow factor, especially for the iPhone available on iTunes. ideas to expand seasonal sales beyond Christmas when all the stores are starting to look alike.” Claiming it is the first New York salon and to add impulse items that can be easily merchan- Marie Todd, senior vice president of Lotta Luv, said to do so, Mizu said the app offers dised in areas other than just beauty. More than 40 retailers were interested in men’s items, as well as more one-touch calling, a salon locator retail firms were represented at the cosmet- impulse, low-price-point items to net add-on dol- via the iPhone’s GPS, appointment ics meeting, along with 27 cosmetics and lars. Many chains wanted impulse request capability via e-mail and fragrance suppliers. The sun care show bins with novelty items they a quick list of the salon’s services was attended by 50 retail firms, in- could position in beauty and prices. Mizu, created by former cluding CVS Pharmacy and Kmart, and other high-trafficked Bumble and bumble stylists Vaughn and 30 suppliers. Buyers looked for areas. Lotta Luv took Acord and Damian Santiago, concepts to expanded sun care be- the opportunity to partnered with ad agency Guts-Ad to yond the summer months and noted show a new men’s lip create the free app. The salon is some overlap between the two critical balm called ChapFix. Mizu’s app. located at 505 Park Avenue. categories, such as bronzers. The sun care meet- For one buyer, the meet- by mass ing also offered retail- NEW HIRE: Woodley & Bunny has tapped Tom Seeberger as their ing offered an opportunity Faye Brookman ers opportunities to new head of sales and education for the distribution side of their to seek seasonal volume heat up sales. Retailers business. Seeberger is known best for building the Bumble & building beyond holiday. She identified foundations with bumble brand, creating its academy and styling programs. found ideas from Karmin sun care properties and sun Industries to stimulate ac- care with bronzer or glitter as PLUS ONE: Hairstylist Paul Norton has joined the Nexxus Salon tivity around events, such overlapping areas between Hair Care Artistic Team as the brand’s newest celebrity stylist. as Valentine’s Day, back- sun care and cosmetics. Norton will be appearing at consumer and industry events and to-school and Halloween. One item that stood out, will also help to create content for Nexxus online platforms. “They are cute, novelty according to several buyers, Throughout July Norton will be featured in a series of instructive items,” the buyer said. was the Cool Off Towelette “how-to” style videos launching on the Nexxus Facebook page. Mitch Takefman, vice from It’s 2 Cool. The pre- He will also communicate directly with Nexxus’ Facebook fans. president of Karmin moistening towelettes pro- (formerly Forecast), said vide a way to cool down PRETTY BUSY: Taylor Momsen just keeps racking up those savvy retailers are on during the heat. They ad campaigns. The 16-year-old starlet, who was recently the prowl for items are infused with herbs, revealed as the not-so-secret face of Madonna’s Material to take advantage of plant botanicals and es- Girl line for Macy’s, will also star in advertisements for John traffic in stores and sential oils. With most Galliano’s new women’s scent, due to be launched in the fall, add another “regis- of the U.S. gripped in a a spokesman for the brand confirmed, following a report in ter ring.” His firm is heat wave, several buy- the French edition of Grazia magazine. Earlier this year, the taking upmarket-style ers grabbed handfuls “Gossip Girl” star and lead singer of rock band The Pretty items and making them of samples to survive Reckless starred in the spring ad campaign for British high- “accessible” to mass. A Karmin’s Nightfall collection display. the summer. Off Beat street retailer New Look. It won’t be Momsen’s first foray few examples include had unique licensed into fragrance: In January, she hosted the launch of the Love his firm’s take on the vampire trend with a collection sun care products that also got the nod from chains as Rocks fragrance collection by Victoria’s Secret Beauty. called Nightfall. The tattoo-inspired motif is captured summer seasonal hits for next year. in another grouping of lip, eye and nail products. The Summer, in fact, could have put a small dent in at- POLISH PARTNERSHIP: To celebrate back-to-school, Essie items are priced at $4 to encourage impulse sales. tendance. Although the show is always deemed pro- Cosmetics and Teen Vogue have collaborated on a limited One trend Takefman has noticed is the cycling ductive, some manufacturers noted the timing could edition nail polish called Declare Your Denim. The shade, which back to nostalgic packaging, such as traditional heart- have interfered with some vacations. “The show is a becomes a darker and edgier blue with multiple shaped boxes and “the cute little soaps your mom bit small and not what it used to be. But it is still good applications, aims to celebrate fall’s favorite wouldn’t let you use.” and a good value for the money,” one vendor said. staple — the classic blue jean — and also help out victim’s of the Gulf Coast oil disaster. Teen Vogue is inviting readers and denim lovers to don their favorite pair of jeans and head to PCPC Fights Toxic Chemical Use Allegations Military Island (Broadway, between 43rd and By Kristi Ellis cosmetics and that is something that for the group, said the industry 44th streets) in Times Square, July 28, the cosmetics industry opposes.” shares the same broad goals with from 9 a.m. to 11 a.m. to take part in a WASHINGTON — Lawmakers and The legislation would require the lawmakers of enhancing FDA charity denim drive, in partnership with consumer advocacy groups manufacturers to conduct safety test- oversight of cosmetics and person- Fashion Delivers Charitable Foundation. squared off with the cosmetics in- ing on all ingredients; direct the FDA al care products, but it has major Consumers can pay $5 to have a new dustry’s main trade and lobbying to establish a list of prohibited ingre- concerns with the legislation. pair of denim donated from one of Teen group this week over new legisla- dients; require cosmetics manufactur- “We do believe that the bill they Vogue’s denim sponsors, or donate a new tion aimed at toughening safety ers to list the name of each ingredient, proposed has a number of prob- pair of their own. Those making donations standards for ingredients and im- including the components of fragranc- lems,” said Hurson. “It actually pro- will receive a bottle of Declare Your Denim posing strict new industry testing es, on each product label; provide re- poses new standards for personal (only 500 bottles have been created). The and labeling requirements. call authority to the FDA for products care products that are significantly event will also feature roving photographers Essie’s Declare Reps. Jan Schakowsky (D., Ill.), that fail to meet the new safety stan- stricter than those currently ap- snapping photos of attendees in their Your Denim Ed Markey (D., Mass.) and Tammy denim, to be displayed live on the Times nail polish. Baldwin (D., Wis.) unveiled the “Safe Square Jumbotron, as well as free copies of Cosmetics Act of 2010” on Tuesday Teen Vogue’s August special denim section. night, calling for an end to what they From lipstick to lotion, our medicine claim is a highly unregulated indus- “ ALES APPOINTMENT: Bernard Flobert has been named managing try that relies on self-policing, calling cabinets are filled with personal care director of Alès Groupe, the company announced Thursday. for stronger authority for the Food He replaces Patrick Alès, the firm’s founder and principle and Drug Administration and new products that may contain potentially shareholder, in the role effective immediately, though he will standards and testing for hazardous be operational in the position from Aug. 23. Alès will remain ingredients and chemicals in cosmet- dangerous chemicals. president of the firm’s board of directors. Flobert’s résumé ics and personal care products. ” — Ed Markey (D., Mass.) includes stints at Danone, McKinsey & Co., LVMH Moët “From lipstick to lotion, our med- Hennessy Louis Vuitton, Darty and The Phone House. In 2009, icine cabinets are filled with person- dards; require the Secretary of Health plied by the FDA to food, drug and Flobert founded a consultancy, which advised Alès on the al care products that may contain & Human Services to conduct annual medical devices.” modernization of its brands and their commercial development potentially dangerous chemicals,” random sample tests for pathogens or Hurson said one of the indus- in France. “I am convinced Alès Groupe has considerable said Markey. “This important bill contaminants, and require mandatory try’s primary concerns and “biggest growth potential in France and internationally,” stated Flobert. closes a gaping hole in our federal reporting of adverse health effects by problems” with the legislation is Alès Groupe’s brands include Lierac and Phyto. laws that allow potentially danger- cosmetics manufacturers, packagers that it calls for distributors, packers, ous chemicals to remain in the cos- and distributors. salons, ingredient suppliers and di- CHANGES AT PIERRE FABRE: Olivier Bohuon will be replacing metic products we use every day.” The Personal Care Products rect sellers to register with the FDA. Jean-Pierre Garnier as chief executive officer at Pierre Fabre Schakowsky said, “This legisla- Council, the cosmetic industry’s main The council released its own Group effective Sept. 1. Bohuon, 51, is executive vice tion requires real FDA oversight trade and lobbying group, held a proposals last week to strengthen president of Abbott Corp. and president of its pharmaceutical and relies on independent, scientif- press conference call on Wednesday oversight of the FDA and establish division, a $22 billion business. “I will head the group in ic analysis by the FDA of the manu- to defend itself against allegations of a new FDA ingredient review pro- close collaboration with its chairman and founder and we will facturers’ claims about which ingre- rampant use of toxic chemicals in its cess, among other measures. It will jointly pave the future,” Bohuon said upon the announcement. dients are safe. Most importantly, a products and oppose the legislation. lobby to have its proposals included Pierre Fabre is the second largest independent French safety standard would ban entirely John Hurson, executive vice in pending legislation introduced by pharmaceutical company and generates a sales turnover of 1.8 the use of dangerous chemicals in president for government affairs Rep. John Dingell (D., Mich.). billion, or about $2.3 billion at current exchange. 8 WWD, FRIDAY, JULY 23, 2010

Media Weigh i ng In With Peter Arnell By Lisa Lockwood WWD: Do you cheat once in a while? did with Donna Karan — the speeding car, which was P. A . : A lot of people say, “You’re crazy, you’re so thin.” I the first image. I was innocent and raw and without TALK ABOUT REINVENTION. never cheat. I’m on the diet all the time. any boundaries. I only did what I did from my heart. The advertising guru known for creative branding My brain was not involved. The second most creative solutions for such companies as Donna Karan, WWD: Do you exercise? thing I ever did was painting the DKNY billboard and DKNY, Emanuel Emanuel Ungaro, Concord Watches, P. A . : I run every morning outside for one hour. the third was the Samsung microwave man, where Samsung and Con Edison, has turned his focus on I changed the course of Samsung’s entire culture rebranding himself. WWD: What do you eat for breakfast? [photographing a fit, shirtless guy in jeans carrying a Peter Arnell, chairman and chief creative officer P. A . : I’ll have 1 1/2 ounces of All-Bran, six slices of Samsung microwave into his college dorm]. of Arnell, has written a self-help book called “Shift” banana and 1 1/2 ounces of soy milk. I snack on oranges (Broadway Books, 2010), which details how he shed 256 all day long. They work for me. The fiber is incredible. WWD: What do you think of the state of advertising today? pounds by eating only oranges, fruits, vegetables and It cleans your system out and there are a lot of vitamins P. A . : [Thumbs down.] Fashion firms need to learn grilled fish. By applying some of the business strategies and minerals. I’ll eat a minimum of 10 and as many as what the Europeans did a long time ago: They figured and tactics he used on his numerous clients, he created 50 in a day. I’ll only eat fruits and vegetables. I take out how to make an event public. Fashion in New what he likes to call the “new and improved version of about 30 vitamins a day. I eat no meat, no chicken and a Yo r k is an intimate, exclusive and scarce thing. They Peter Arnell.” little grilled fish. There’s no sugar, no butter, no bread, need to do more public events With a penchant for living life to the extreme, Arnell 150 ounces of water a day, and one cappuccino a day in — more powerful live ideas that has transformed his life by drastically changing his a paper cup. engage people directly. The best eating habits. He admits he had no surgery and credits advertising in the world is to a lot to oranges, which kept him on track. In the book, WWD: Have you found yourself to be a calmer person? invite the public to an event. Why he writes, “I’m constantly peeling oranges. But truth P. A . : Nothing’s calmed down. I’ve never been a smoker, can’t New Year’s Eve be with one be told, the oranges peeled me as well. That’s what although I smoked cigars. I smoked for years, but I million people in Times Square, they’ve done for a long time. and have a company like Guess They peeled away layers within Jeans do an event during that me. They convinced me that I Peter time? The problem is people in could change. That I didn’t Arnell: I’m much fashion advertising tend to want have to remain the way I was — After “ to control their image. They’re a 400-plus-pound man in and more facile in the image-management what should have been a before business. They don’t want to let 150-pound body.” his and able to go of the process and tradition. Arnell writes that he used weight L “Shift,” by People who run those companies to be physically imposing — loss. move more, Peter Arnell. don’t have the time, money and “That’s a diplomatic way to say knowledge of the Web. They’re I was obese” — and that obesity and I’m not much more about “touch me, feel is what people noticed first me.” If someone spends $200,000 when they met him. “I’ve always distracted [in a magazine], it’s an ego trip. loved food. I used to devour The Web is not an ego trip. good food the way I devour life, as much by savoring every new sensation WWD: You seem to have a lot of (or new thought) that comes to my weight. nervous energy. What do you do me over the course of the day. ” to relax? I still do that in my life, but not P. A . : I tried it once and it didn’t with food anymore.” work. I prefer to be active. Arnell’s branding advice, and thought processes behind many WWD: Where do you go to be of his innovative ad campaigns, inspired? are woven throughout the 200- P. A . : I’m very inspired by Kyoto, page book. “Branding is about [Japan], and I go to Rome a simplicity and scale. Most lot. Rome is, in my mind, the people don’t relate to small; they epicenter of innovation, style relate to big. So as a marketer, and invention. It was built so it pays to think really big and to well and it will last forever. move fast. You have to approach marketing like Formula 1 WWD: How do you racing; respond quickly, think describe the Peter Arnell ahead, and know where you are brand today? And going,” he writes. The newly how would you have nimble Arnell sat down with previously described it? WWD at Sant Ambroeus last P. A . : “Unpredictable,” week over grilled vegetables, “determined” and discussed the book, his most and “complex,” memorable campaigns and his A“compassionate” and “difficult.” new outlook on life. “Hysterical,” as in funny. Ten years ago, some of the words WWD: Why did you decide to are the same, but most of my write the book? words back then would be much Peter Arnell: People were hocking different. I’d use “random” me. They said, “You’ve got to Arnell’s campaigns for Donna Karan, DKNY and Samsung. instead of “unpredictable” and tell the world about the weight “chaotic” instead of “complex.” loss.” I’m down to 143 pounds. It [the weight loss] took stopped. I don’t drink any alcohol, and I could. I just 30 months, and it’s been six years and I’ve never gone have no interest. WWD: How would you like to be remembered? back. Unfortunately, people engage with their eyes. P. A . : The thinnest man on earth. That my book spent They don’t engage with their minds. People don’t get WWD: Who monitored your diet? the longest time on The New York Times Best-Seller to know who you are. I had spent my whole life with P. A . : I went to Dr. [Louis] Aronne [a weight-loss list (currently number 14). I’d like to change people’s people saying to themselves, “How can such a smart specialist] who put together a consortium of doctors, perception of people with Down syndrome. (Proceeds guy allow himself to be so heavy and unhealthy?” consisting of Dr. Martin Post, a cardiologist, and from “Shift” are going to the Special Olympics.) I’d like a dentist, Dr. Stephen Chu. I was into it from the to remove the prejudice. I’m on the board of Special WWD: How has your new trim physique affected the beginning. Every time I went on my scale. I lost weight. Olympics. I’d like to be remembered for designing and way you work? producing one of the most memorable Italian sports P. A . : The offices do reflect the structured quality. I was WWD: You always used to wear elastic-waist pants and cars ever. In March 2011, De Tomaso [where he is chief always neat and orderly. The office is as fit as I am. an untucked white shirt. What brands do you like to innovation and design officer] is coming out with the There’s a lot of process and regiment. wear now? Pantera. I’ve been given the responsibility to design P. A . : All my suits are made for me in Rome, at F&G the new one. WWD: How did your family adjust to your weight loss? Albertelli. I went down to a size 28 in pants. [His waist P. A . : There’s a big pressure off the family when the had been 68 inches]. I wear Gucci jeans now. WWD: What was the best reaction you got from your pressure of Pop having a stroke is out of the picture. weight loss? But the places you go with them and the time you WWD: Has losing all that weight helped your creativity? P. A . : Bill Clinton was speaking about the need for better spend with them is always surrounded by food. “Let’s P. A . : My photography is much more creative. I’m nutrition in schools and called out to me, “I’m going to call in Chinese food,” or “Dad’s home for dinner.” much more facile and able to move more, and I’m not embarrass you now, Peter, stand up. When I first met Peter None of these work in the same way. You have to distracted as much by my weight. But the best work a few years ago, he weighed 356 pounds,” Clinton said. adjust. I think I had an influence on them. Fish gets I’ve ever done was at 320 pounds. The single most “Now he is 150 pounds — and he doesn’t have any stretch exchanged for meat, and water for soda pop. important thing that I feel I ever did was the work I marks.” For me, it was one of the proudest moments.

McQueen Memorial

10 WWD, FRIDAY, JULY 23, 2010 WWD.COM McQueen Memorial Wasson Said Splitting From Rvca By Venessa Lau 12/31/10. The term expires in between the development and go-to-market processes for [the spring TO HEAR THE RVCA BRASS TELL IT, Erin collection], so both parties opted not to develop Service Set for Sept. Wasson has not left the building. the season as part of our current agreement.” “The current rumors are completely incor- Where does Wasson stand on all of this? She rect and misleading statements,” said Rvca confi rmed the fall collection was defi nitely her founder and creative director last. “My focus is on continuing Pat M. Tenore, via e-mail, of with my Low Luv brand,” Wasson the gossip circulating that the said. “I’m expanding the line, cre- label dropped the model as its ating more pieces and collaborat- IANNACCONE women’s wear designer. “Rvca ing with other people as well.” and Erin have not parted ways She declined to give more indefi nitely. Erin is part of the THOMAS details about the upcoming Rvca family, and we hope to BY projects but emphasized that

work with her on new collabora- PHOTO the split with Rvca was “ami- tions in the near future.” cable.” “The deal was always However, her current con- supposed to fi nish on Dec. 31,” tract is ending. Wasson’s con- she explained. “Pat and I have a tract was apparently always wonderful relationship.” supposed to end now — and As for the reports that she the recent announcement that and her team were “total chaos Billabong took over Rvca had no and the epitome of unorga- direct impact. nized,” according to one un- But Tenore noted the col- named source within the Rvca laboration, which launched for ranks, Wasson countered that spring 2009, was only for three “the fact of the matter is I wear seasons. Do the math and that many hats. I was also modeling, LONDON — A private memorial service for Lee Alexander means spring, not fall, should I was designing the [Low Luv] McQueen will take place during London Fashion Week on Monday, have been her last collection. jewelry line, so it was always Sept. 20, according to a Gucci Group spokeswoman. Moreover, press reports reveal- a situation of fi nding the right The service will be held at St. Paul’s Cathedral here, and will ing the partnership at the time time to do everything. I’m ex- be a celebration of the designer’s life and work, the spokeswoman noted Wasson signed a three- tremely hands-on.” said. year contract. She continued, “Speculation A look from Family, friends and colleagues of the designer, who died in So what gives? Marketing di- is speculation. That’s just the Erin Wasson’s February, are expected to attend. rector Brian Garofalow made a world we live in today and you fall collection correction that the “agreement have to take it all with a grain — Samantha Conti for Rvca. was for a time term, expiring of salt.” FASHION SCOOPS BIRTHDAY TREAT: Former President Clinton would have A R T OF THE SCARF: Following the success of Burberry’s “Art of the Trench” been proud. During lunch on Thursday at project, Hermès is celebrating its silk scarves with a fanzine, a Web site and the Four Seasons restaurant, Clinton a series of global events highlighting different ways of wearing the iconic confi dante Vernon Jordan got a little extra carré. British photographer Matt Irwin, art director Dean Langley and stylist dessert with his meal. As Jordan dined Francesca Burns traveled to New York, London, Tokyo and Paris for the with Blackstone Group co-founder Pete “J’aime mon carré” (“I love my scarf”) project, which portrays four women Peterson, a skinny blonde strolled into and their scarves in playful and lighthearted settings. There will shortly be the Grill Room, planted herself in front of a dedicated Web site, jaimemoncarre.com, which will also include “how- Jordan and rolled her top down. As the other to” instructions on knotting the scarves and details of special events patrons began cheering and clapping, the from Australia to the Czech Republic. In Paris, concept store Colette woman proceeded to shove her chest in his will host a special orange box — inspired by the luxury fi rm’s trademark face and kiss Jordan as he blew out a Bundt packaging — from Sept. 27 to Oct. 16 selling

L A limited PITTS/LANDOV cake with parsley in the middle of it (an inside edition Hermès for limited edition Hermès for Colette scarves and joke between the two men), and full of candles Colette silk scarf. lozenges. (to celebrate his 75th birthday). As it turns out, ROBERT

BY the scantily clad blonde, who many thought was OPENING CEREMONY FOR FRANCOPHILES: It’s that time Vernon Opening Jordan a stripper, is a food blogger named Becky Wunder. of year again. Opening Ceremony revealed its latest PHOTO A quick glance at her site shows that Wunder has Ceremony lineup of internationally inspired collaborations. been featured in six editions of Playboy. revealed its This year’s country of origin is France so, come latest novelty September, Opening Ceremony’s New York, Los SHOE FETISH: Halle Berry, Vogue’s September cover girl, is merchandise. Angeles and Tokyo stores will be overrun with novelty about to go deeper into the fashion world. She’s been cast merchandise sourced from the fashion capital of in the fi lm “Shoe Addicts Anonymous,” an adaptation of the world. Ladurée, Carven, Jean Paul Gaultier, the best-selling novel by Beth Harbison. The comedy, which agnès b., Repetto, K. Jacques and Maison Michel, will be released in fall 2011, is being produced by Galgos the accessories line by Chanel’s head accessories Entertainment’s Russell Nuce and Mark Bozek, and Parallel designer Laetitia Crahay, are among the labels creating Media. Bozek was formerly president and chief executive specialty, limited edition collections for the store. offi cer of HSN Inc., launched hsn.com, and before that was Customers can expect a Western kitten-heeled ankle vice president of broadcasting at QVC. Nuce was previously bootie from Repetto for Opening Ceremony, and a vice president and general counsel of Wear Me Apparel at 10-piece range of animal ears, headbands and hats Kids Headquarters. from Maison Michel for OC. And in what OC co-owner “It’s more ‘First Wives’ Club’ than ‘Sex and the City,” said Humberto Leon describes as an “unexpected choice Bozek of the fi lm, which is about four Chicago women who that felt right,” there will also be a capsule collection come together because they’re all obsessed with shoes and wear of clothes featuring prints based on the exotic animals

AQUINO the same 7.5 size. “Halle related to it. She gets all these serious found in Deyrolle, Paris’ foremost taxidermy house, parts and said, ‘Nobody thinks of me as a comedic actress’ but which he discovered on a tip from Jason Schwartzman. JOHN

Halle BY she’s really funny. She also loves shoes,” he added. Bozek said Berry they’re still in the process of casting three other female parts. LUNCH LINES: Banana Republic creative director Simon PHOTO The movie will be ﬁ lmed this fall in Chicago and Michigan. Kneen and “Mad Men” costume designer Janie Bryant Bozek is also involved in another fashion project that didn’t get much sleep the night after the retailer puts his home shopping background to work. He and Nuce are the executive producers of hosted the season four premiere of the Emmy-winning

“SelleVision,” which is a black comedy about a ﬁ ctitious shopping network. A half-hour pilot, show. The duo was back at the Sunset Tower Hotel the written by Bryan Fuller, creator of “Pushing Daisies,” will air this fall on NBC. next day to host a luncheon celebrating their second

IMAGES collaboration on the “Mad About Style” campaign, SHANGHAI SURPRISE: In Bottega Veneta’s case, one way to warm locals’ hearts beyond which schools shoppers in the fi ner points of 9-to-5 accessories and ready-to-wear is through music. As part of the World Expo in Shanghai, the and cocktail hour dressing. “We met for the fi rst time Italian house is sponsoring the world premiere of Tan Dun’s “Martial Arts Trilogy” on Aug. 7. To when fi lming video blogs for the campaign, and we mark the occasion, the brand is also launching a micro-site next Monday, which is accessible hit it off so well that AMC better watch out, we may via bottegaveneta.com and will feature an online auction of a special edition Bottega Veneta HARRISON/GETTY be doing our own show,” laughed Kneen. Meanwhile, handbag replete with four tickets to the concert. For those whose bids don’t win, 25 more such Bryant shared some tricks of her trade, such as using bags are available at 11 Bottega Veneta stores across China. The sale of these bags will benefi t FRAZER upholstery fabrics to achieve a vintage look for her the Spring Bud Project of the China Children and Teenagers’ Fund. costumes, and altering collars and sleeves from rental CREDIT: Janie Bryant and house pieces. “They win out in the end, because, for NEW DEAL: Diesel Group won’t be renewing its 16-year-old licensing agreement for eyewear with Simon Kneen every one piece that gets lost or damaged, we have to Safi lo Group when it expires on Dec. 31. PHOTO give them fi ve of our costumes,” she said. Diesel Group’s eyewear business accounted for 2 percent of Safi lo’s 2009 revenues. Diesel’s in talks with a new licensee, the identity of which could not immediately be learned. Fashion Front will not appear today. Bridget Foley is on assignment. WWD, FRIDAY, JULY 23, 2010 11 WWD.COM Financial For WWD’s stock chart and more financial news, see WWD.com / business-news. Producers Under Pricing Pressure Continued from page one last year, but will begin to inch up a few per- TO THE POINT a supply and demand imbalance,” Noll said. “There is centage points in 2011. A digest of recent earnings results: no question that costs are working their way through the “The cost of cotton and the ultimate cost supply chain and you will see a broad-based increase, I of denim, for us, yes, it’s a factor,” Shearer • VF CORP. think, in retail prices for apparel in 2011.” said. “The cost of copper and the cost for zip- Results: Second-quarter net income grew 46.7 percent to $110.8 The industry is also working on tighter inventories pers for us is a factor.” Materials account for million, or $1 a diluted share, 23 cents above estimates. Revenues and pushing suppliers for quicker turns. Noll said his 50 to 60 percent of VF’s product costs, while up 7.3 percent to $1.59 billion. company had spent $15 million more on air freight so labor accounts for about 20 percent. Highlights: Gross margin reached an all-time high of 47.1 percent of far this year to bring in goods from Central America and Shearer said investors are closely watch- sales, 320 basis points above the year-ago level, as operating income Asia. “When you’re running with such short lead times, ing the cost of cotton, which has risen about leaped 40 percent at the jeanswear coalition and 35 percent at the you need to speed it up and air freight is just a lot more 53 percent over the last year to 76 cents outdoor and action sports group. expensive than ocean freight,” he said. a pound. But he said general inflation in Guidance: Full-year EPS expected to hit $6.10 versus prior estimate In that vein, Columbia Sportswear Co. also said China spurred on by higher labor costs was of $5.90. Thursday it had incurred increased costs to “expedite the bigger factor for VF. Stock: Shares closed at $78.40, up $4.44, or 6 percent. production and delivery of fall orders to customers.” “We’re seeing everything happen at Retailers and vendors would like nothing more than once,” said David Bassuk, managing direc- • HANESBRANDS INC. to pass the additional expense on to consumers. That will tor at AlixPartners’ retail practice. “There’s Results: Second-quarter net income $85.4 million, or 87 cents a be a tall order given an unemployment rate of 9.5 percent, rising prices, but what we’re also seeing and diluted share, matching estimates at 2.8 times the year-ago level. a sharp downturn in consumer confidence over the past hearing very strongly from the consumer Revenues gained 9.1 percent to reach $1.08 billion. month and what Eric Wiseman, chairman and ceo of VF that she’s not willing to pay more. The re- Highlights: Operating profits up to 11.4 percent of sales from Corp., described as an apparent “pause” in the recovery. tailers and the brands are seeing it from 8.5 percent in second quarter of 2009. Outerwear sales up 16.1 both sides. Only the strong will survive. percent, to $263.3 million, as segment operating income hit $17.4 There will be more and more players not million, 2.5 times the year-ago mark. ANALYSIS making it through this and that’s retailers, Guidance: Full-year EPS estimated at $2.25 to $2.35 versus previous Still there’s a growing sense that the pressures build- brands and factories.” view of $2.15 to $2.27. ing in the supply chain will sooner or later make their “This is essentially going to affect every- Stock: Shares closed at $24.49, down 45 cents or 1.8 percent. way to the consumer. It could be a rude awakening after one,” said Scott Tuhy, debt analyst at Moody’s (Hanesbrands reported results after the close of the markets more than a decade of shrinking price tags. Investors Service. “At the end of the day, Wednesday.) According to Commerce Department figures, apparel higher prices will probably need to be passed prices hit their high in 1992 and have fallen each year on to the consumer. The question is how will • COLUMBIA SPORTSWEAR CO. since with just two exceptions, including last year when the consumer react to it. We’ve had years of Results: Second-quarter loss was $10.6 million, or 31 cents a diluted prices inched up 0.6 percent. Even with the increase, apparel deflation, trying to move prices up share, 11 cents better than estimates but higher than the loss of apparel in 2009 cost a staggering 20.4 percent less than is going to be a challenge. If the consumer $9.9 million, or 29 cents, reported in last year’s quarter. Revenues it did 17 years earlier. psyche improves and people are willing to rose 23.7 percent to $221.8 million. “It does feel like perhaps we are at an inflection point move up, that’s an environment that’s a little Highlights: Gross margin increased to 43.7 percent of sales from where the consumer will likely see some pricing increas- bit easier.” 41.5 percent a year ago during the lowest revenue quarter of es,” Bob Shearer, VF Corp.’s senior vice president and The renewed focus on costs came as VF re- Columbia’s fiscal year. chief financial officer, told WWD. “The cost side is a little ported second-quarter earnings that beat esti- Guidance: Midteen percentage increase in third-quarter sales more certain than the pricing. Pricing will be part of our mates and lifted its guidance Thursday, which expected, but operating margins are expected to decline, due in part equation as we look into 2011 and see higher costs.” Hanesbrands did as well following the close to costs to expedite production and delivery of fall orders. Vendors and retailers have always wrangled over of the markets on Wednesday. Reporting after Stock: Shares closed at $48.22, up $1.96 or 4.2 percent. (Columbia price and in many cases carried negotiations through market Thursday, Columbia beat estimates reported results after the close of the markets Thursday.) the season and beyond as retailers come back to sup- but reported a wider loss for the quarter. pliers looking for markdown money to compensate for Buoyed by encouraging earnings news lines that did not perform as well as expected. in and out of the apparel and retail sec- VF, the country’s biggest producer, is relying on its tors, the S&P Retail Index staged a 2.9 percent, to close at 10,322.30. Like VF and Hanesbrands, brands, scale, network of owned factories and broad cent rally, retaking the 400 mark and landing up 11.47 companies outside the sector — including Caterpillar base of suppliers to mitigate cost pressures building points at 404.62. It was the first 400-plus close for the Inc. and AT&T Inc. — both beat estimates and raised in the supply chain. Less than 25 percent of the firm’s index in a week. guidance, although Amazon.com Inc. shed more than 10 goods come from China, where the changing labor dy- The major indices advanced strongly, although all percent of its share price in after-hours trading follow- namic has pushed prices up significantly. fell short of the retail index’s percentage gain. The Dow ing an after-market earnings miss. The company said costs will be down this year versus Jones Industrial Average added 201.77 points, or 2 per- — With contributions from Arnold J. Karr

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For more images from the party, see WWD.com/eyescoop. WALK THE LINE

HOLLYWOOD’S PORTRAYAL OF THE UPPER class has varied over the past few decades. In 1940, “The Philadelphia Story” was entertainingly aspirational. Earlier this year, “High Society” was not. Thankfully, the latest project to examine the world of the elite falls closer to the former, though it’s doubtful anyone would aspire to be “The Extra Man.” As Henry Harrison, Kevin Kline plays a society walker who lives in squalor — his tiny walk-up apartment is riddled with vermin and he frequently runs out of clean dress socks, so he paints his ankles black. But every so often, Henry manages to escape his dilapidated existence via a shiny black Town Car sent by 90-year-old wealthy and widowed women who request his company on the social circuit. “It’s a symbiotic parasitic relationship [Henry has] with these women,” Kline says. “But he’s reﬁ ned it to an art.” To research the role, Kline relied L Luciana Duvall in Ralph Lauren; Lucy Punch in Christian Cota. heavily on Jonathan Ames’ novel of the same name, on which the ﬁ lm is based. And if he needed anything else, well, New York City provided ample material. WWD spoke with Kline to discuss walker watering holes, walker behavior and THE that walker mecca: Palm Beach. — Emily Holt

WWD: Before ﬁ lming, were you familiar with the term “walker?” Kevin Kline: Oh yeah, I knew what a

‘LOW’ DOWN EICHNER walker was. I’ve probably even met THE MORE ESTEEMED AN ACTOR IS, THE LESS a few over the years inadvertently,

fussy they are about how they look on a red carpet. Or STEVE without necessarily knowing that L Kevin Kline so it seemed Wednesday night at the Cinema Society BY that’s what they were.

and Sony Alpha Nex 5-sponsored screening of “Get KLINE Low,” where stars Robert Duvall and Sissy Spacek both WWD: Outside of the book, where did you go to ﬁ nd material for the role? showed up looking appropriately put together but K.K.: I talked to a waiter friend of mine at a sort of nice restaurant not overly so. (The film’s other star, the elusive IMAGES; where these types hang out. He told me a great story. There was one Bill Murray, was a no-show.) [walker] that always came in, and whenever it was time for the bill to For his moment in the spotlight, Duvall come, he’d always step outside to make a phone call or visit the men’s wore a Ralph Lauren sport coat, black room. It’s wonderfully discreet and humorous. [I also did] a little pants and a black polo shirt. “My wife research about Jerry Zipkin, who was a famous walker. loves Ralph Lauren,” Duvall said. CAPRI/SAGA/GETTY

“She’s very good at style. She’s jealous FRANK WWD: Paul Dano [Kline’s co-star] said you two went walker stalking on

of him.” Left to his own devices, the BY the East Side. Oscar winner prefers jeans and “kind of K.K.: We went to one restaurant because we wanted to meet and have gaucho” boots that he buys when he’s in Argentina. lunch. I asked around and picked a restaurant where we thought we

“When I get boots made, it never works,” Duvall BRADBURY might spot, if not extra men, the kind of women that extra men would said, “so I just take something off the shelf that escort. I don’t know that we actually saw any [extra men]. works better.”

Spacek also took a sartorial cue from a family MORELAND; WWD: Which restaurant was it? member, borrowing her daughter’s jeans for the K.K.: Damned if I can remember, it was so long ago. It was on the East affair. “They’re Urban Outﬁ tters, strictly out of her LEXIE Side. I can’t plug them. I don’t know if they’d look at it as a plug or BY closet,” Spacek said. “She brought them to me and possibly an insult. I was told 21 was a place to go. said, ‘Mom, you’ve got to wear these.” Spacek, also an Oscar winner and nominated for an Emmy for her PHOTOS WWD: Henry is always migrating to Palm Beach. Have you ever been? guest role on “Big Love,” paired them with kitten-heel, K.K.: I think I was….Yes, I was there. It certainly wasn’t the side PARTY L “Get Low” director Aaron Schneider black satin J. Crew sandals and a black jacket from of Palm Beach that Henry Harrison saw. It was just a vacation with with Sissy Spacek in Joan & David; Joan & David. “I’ve had it for 30 years,” she said. “It LOW” our children. And mostly we just saw a lot of people we knew from

Robert Duvall. Right: Daniel Merriweather. ﬁ nally came back. If you wait long enough, it all does.” “GET New York.

Ray Bradbury in 1951, was the life changer that made fi lmmaker John Huston RAY’S ORIGINAL recruit him to write the screenplay for “Moby Dick.” Bradbury was less enthused about François Truffaut’s 1966 “Fahrenheit 451” fl ick, only NEARING 90, RAY BRADBURY DEFINES PROLIFIC. AUTHOR, commending Bernard Herrmann’s musical score and leading actor essayist, playwright, screenwriter, lecturer, poet and visionary all apply, Oskar Werner’s warring ways with Truffaut. but his description is far earthier. Nor was he too high on the New Yorkers he encountered as a young “The truth is I’m a great big pomegranate that exploded and all man. “I made a lot of friends in New York. They were all very sick and my seeds are all over the place. I’m very thankful for that,” he told very strange. I learned from them the scent of death. I knew I didn’t his biographer, Sam Weller, during a Skype chat Wednesday night at want to die, be sick or be noncreative, so I went home and said, ‘To hell McNally Jackson Books in Manhattan. with those people.’ I just learned to be me,” Bradbury said. Best known for “Fahrenheit 451,” the 1953 sci-fi thriller that predicted the advent of fl at-screen TVs, violence, electronic devices for long distance messaging and a society of nonreaders, he is now polishing “It’s become brilliant — that’s what.” up “Juggernaut,” a book of short stories due out in December. He will — RAY BRADBURY ON HOW HIS WRITING HAS CHANGED OVER THE YEARS make the rounds as a guest of honor at this weekend’s Comic-Con International in San Diego. Asked Wednesday how his writing has changed over 60-plus years, he chortled, “It’s become brilliant — that’s what.” Bradbury, a high-school graduate, addressed the demise of Contrary to recent fi lm industry rumors, no one has bought the rights education in America: “All our students shouldn’t do what their for a fi lm remake of his short story “The Martian Chronicles,” nor for teachers tell them to do or to be. They should go to the library and “Fahrenheit 451,” whose rights are still owned by Mel Gibson. “And he’s teach themselves. Libraries should be the center of our life. There you having trouble with his Russian girlfriend. I think I saw on TV that he hit can get a free education and become yourself. You don’t need a teacher. her,” Bradbury said, which caused the crowd to erupt with laughter. You can teach yourself. Don’t think — do.” Au courant as he is, Bradbury was repeatedly reminded of his salad And for such a prescient author, it’s no surprise he has some days by Weller. Offi ce-free and strapped for cash in the early Fifties, predictions of his own. “Big government is too big,” he said. “We’ve got Bradbury recalled getting “a big bag of dimes” from the bank, renting to give government back to the people. Remember the United States a typewriter for 10 cents an hour in a UCLA building’s basement, is governed by the people for the people. We the people need to speak sitting down and whipping off “Fahrenheit 451” in nine days. “I spent now and demand that government get out of the way.” $9.80,” the Illinois native said. But “The Fog Horn,” a story penned — Rosemary Feitelberg