Blackout Reykjavík

Blackout Reykjavík

The Last View of Kárahnjúkar • Exclusive Interview: Will Oldham An Exercise in Religious Tolerance • The Grapevine Goes to Mývatn Complete City Guide and Listings: Map, Info, Music, Arts and Events Issue 16 / 6 October - 2 November 2006 ISSUE SIXTEEN: OCTOBER 6 – NOVEMBER 2 YEAR 4

Articles The Reykjavík Grapevine crew

06 Culture of Constant Change The Reykjavík Grapevine An interview with Róbert Marshall Vesturgata 5, 101 Reykjavík www.grapevine.is [email protected] Putting Pop on the Priority List 10 Published by: Fröken ehf. An interview with Bryndís Ísfold Hlöðversdóttir editorial office 16 A Basic Form of Communicating +354 540-3600 / [email protected] for inquiries regarding editorial content. Valgeir Sigurðsson takes the stage, finally marketing office 35 The Invasion of the Visual Artists +354 540-3605 / [email protected] Sequences – Real Time Festival for inquiries regarding advertising, marketing, distribution and subscriptions.

36 The Mission is the Goal publisher’s office Exploring isolation and devotion with some LDS kids +354 540-3601 / [email protected] for inquiries regarding this publication.

the reykjavík grapevine staff Feature Publisher: Hilmar Steinn Grétarsson / [email protected] Editor: Sveinn Birkir Björnsson / [email protected] Marketing Director: Jón Trausti Sigurðarson / [email protected] 18 Connecting through Music Support Manager: Oddur Óskar Kjartansson / [email protected] Will Oldham speaks of art, entertainment and recording in Breiðholt Art Director: Gunnar Þorvaldsson / [email protected] Photographer: Óskar Hallgrímsson / [email protected] Staff Journalists: Haukur Magnússon / [email protected] Steinunn Jakobsdóttir / [email protected] Virginia Zech / [email protected] Essentials Sales staff: Aðalsteinn Jörundsson / [email protected] Jón Trausti Sigurðarson / [email protected] 08 News in Brief Staff Assistant: Jóhanna F. Sæmundsdóttir / [email protected] Distribution: Sæmundur Þ. Helgason / [email protected] Proofreader: Erika Wolfe 21 The Grapevine In Your Pocket Cover by: The man in black 30 Dining, Eating and Grubbing On cover: “I see a darkness.”

31 Bezt í Heimi are you planning an event? do you want to tell us something? send a press release to: [email protected] 35 Fiction in the Grapevine: We are always looking for articles. Faces by Bjarni Bjarnason Send your submissions to: [email protected] Are you interested in working for the Reykjavík Grapevine (or the other way around)? contact: [email protected]

Music & Nightlife You may not like it, but at least it's not sponsored. (No articles in the Reykjavík Grapevine are pay-for articles. The opinions expressed are the writers’ own, not the advertisers’.) 29 CD Reviews

32 Beauty and the Desert Printed by: Prentsmiðja Morgunblaðsins printing press # copies: 30.101 Movie Reviews The Reykjavík Grapevine can be found in: Reykjavík, Akureyri, Egilsstaðir, Selfoss, Keflavík and at key loca- tions around road #1 and at all major tourist attractions and tourist information centres. Outside Reykjavík The Reykjavík Grapevine is published 18 times a year by Fröken ltd. 39 The Lonesome Traveller: Kárahnjúkar Monthly from November through April, and bi-weekly (fortnightly) from May til October. Nothing in this magazine may be reproduced One last look before the flood in whole or in part without the written permission of the publishers. Although the magazine has endeavored to ensure that all information 42 Trolls and Bubbling Mud Pits inside the magazine is correct, prices and details may be subject to change. The Grapevine visits Lake Mývatn Subscribe to the Reykjavík Grapevine by visiting www.grapevine.is. Subscription inquiries: subscribe@grapevine and +354 540 3605 44 Beware: Polar Bear May Bite Guns but no roses in Svalbard Designed for arctic exploration. Great when waiting for a bus.

Reykjavík: Kringlan, Bankastræti 5, Faxafen 12 Garðabær: Miðhraun 11 Akureyri: Glerárgata 32 Keflavík: Airport and retailers across Iceland. www.66north.com SOUR GRAPES Complaints, criticism, suggestions, praise, money, anything at all: Contact [email protected] or send your mail to: The Reykjavík Grapevine, Vesturgata 5, 101 Reykjavík.

First off, we have two letters from this sometime ago its planned a concert centre i was warned there was work- cat called Roy. hall to be built. Cost of the project ers request here. 30 bilions krona. Whatever? The Result: unskilled job whitout any in- Hi, same guy i asked for a better job trestment by the company to educate Stefán Pálson is probably right.. told it to me: “It’s simply ridicolus!” workers, not much rice back to how Think about all of the money that and whit this he argued about what then living here is pricy: houses, was spent during World War II the price means: “If instead of this nutrition, vacation, etc etc... building tanks,airplanes,ships etc. building they give the money out Here i have experienced socially the just to defeat some misunderstood each icelandic would have10 milion value of the word “House” the little folks like the Germans and Japa- krona” For what urbanistic concern spoon icelander and english, and nese. We should have entered into a concert hall on the harbour will most probably lombards have in serious discussions with these people make of Reykjavik on line with what common and i don´t. instead of building a war machine pitcure tell me about Sidney. A similar background did´t stop a to defeat them. Think of all the Three years ago when first i came clash in the ‘70: must have been over Icelandic seamen whose ships were year i’ve seen how downtown at an horse to beat on. sunk by misunderstood German U Kaffi Rekyavik “The coolest bar of Apart for that, I do not match this boat commanders. SP ought to be the town” the deal whit an aussie this country for many other things. damn grateful not hateful. Very few beer was broken, the arms of the I cannot stand in a smokey pub, i Icelanders were killed by the U.S. precious drink by the trash: now feel very bad. I was banned from military during their long stay in it happen icelanders are back on university for i cannot speak icelan- Iceland. Having the U.S. as an ally the OZ line too? For what money dic, and all the book of the course is not a bad thing. concern i would not earn not bee- where in english. True my english is Sincerely, ing icelandic one of the ten milion poor but so far no access to a better Roy Roesel krona package. “I could live for free linguistic resources would´t improve for at least three year” i said to the it. Different think to say when taxes Hey… you are right, you are always guy at the gas station. Then i real- offices of this Iceland took a share of better off siding with the bully. Like we ized better: i’m deny about iceland- 40 percent off of my wage, gap the all know, you are either with him, or ers wage such of 400.000 kr once fact my report went lost two times against him. i´ve heard one man can earn with between tax collector, post and tax a showel. Those free years could offices. I was asking my right and have been seven. The same years an tax officials where asking the state Hi, italian friend advised me are neces- one accusing me of beeing late. The statement from Magnús sary for an icelandic passport or Who was the arrogant there? Well, [Þorkellsson, interviewed in the last citizenship. Back again to the plan, i´m living at the camp site no quids issue of the Grapevine] “In Iceland, if estethically i figure out in that for a room. Last, estetically iceland I could say that there is more placegardens more than an aquari- is a beautifull country (even if Bleik freedom or more flexibility to dis- um, on the income side people from og Blatt are no more those of 2002) cuss ideas on an intellectual basis. “ iceland whit “-sons and -dottir” and it’s two years and half i’m joked doesn’t hold water. You can say surname driving Subaru are still by fish factories, farms an other jobs anything you want at a liberal arts figuring me out as a long sleeve the 9000 not islanders do. Radio on college orange, maybe belonging to the suit Bon Jovi´s “Living on a prayer” as in the U.S. If you live in a fishbowl of a first class japanese traditional focused by a sharp reporter, sound country like Iceland you definitely beach, one of those of “no” theatre. romantic but it´s back in the ´80 have to watch what you say are you Believe it or not, even whit those and i´m sick whit it.Personally i can might not be employed the next day. opportunity i´ve heard about, four hardly trust i can find a way for op- Look at Omar Ragnarsson’s latest time my wage, the same icelandic portunities here, unfortunatly. comments as reported in Iceland came to me begging for some pizza What i will say in my small shit Review. cash they have never return. about Iceland: country, institution, Sincerely, When i realized anybody here has business, relationship and people. I Roy Roesel much bigger wage than mine i still do not know how i will remem- start suspecting some dirty racket ber that. So, Omar is out of a job then? Hmm… was slicing me off and denying me By now i am planning quick to go not? What Þorkellsson is obviously say- freedom. I could only find my mum working in a country i have better ing to is that in an Icelandic classroom, and sister call on my handy, i do not chances before the next system plan a discourse on the Middle East can stick think it was them, nobody foxy with automatically will feed me. to an objective discussion on historical a pint would never call you: “Hello Ps: I forgot to mention Thay and facts, where as in the US, the discourse i´m pooring you out!” I am vegetar- Polish syndacate. It’s a rule, how tends to stray of into a more personal ian but i am afraid i stink sushi. come there is always somebody or and subjective territory, tainted by I am arguing how far, enough for something in a cupboard worh it politics and religion. If you failed to beeing used as a screen saver in a better? comprehend that form the interview, pop stage? I decided to go away I might suggest that you could do with from Lombardy, Italy, unhappy I have no idea what this guy is talking a few years at liberal arts college in the about house parties and what come about, but the Grapevine employees U.S. whit it: building society, banking, have voted this as the most entertain- trust and insurance: no freedom ing reader response to date. and a bad family condiction jacking Back to the Esso station where your me over. I move in Great Britain illustrius newspaper use to stay first and then Iceland, at the job @>5//68;0.7=1*5.;

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@@@0;*9.?27.2< EDITORIALS 5 Yes, He Was the Most Strongest Man in the Universe! I was writing this masterpiece of an editorial, truth is a lot simpler: we have a problem with ab- the Icelandic experience, is like – you are way off. then the blackout hit and I lost all my data…. surdity. We don’t understand it. We tend to take Strangely, most of the criticism seems to come I am joking of course. things at face value, so when we are presented from people who present – as facts – such ab- While on the subject of jokes... A few months with absurdity, it fails to compute. surdities as the claim that the majority of Iceland ago, I saw a film called The Aristocrats. Present- Why do I bring this up? I don’t know. Per- believes in elves and the hidden people, or that we ing it self as a documentary, it is in reality a 90- haps because lately, ever since I took over as edi- all feast on shark, all the time, or that the women minute exercise in vulgarity. It is also hilarious. tor of the Grapevine, I have been getting all sorts are loose or the nature is unspoiled and the water The idea behind the film is to take the vulgarity of absurd criticism regarding the editorial policy is the cleanest in the world. Well, those ‘facts’ do to such an extreme that it enters the realm of of the paper. At first, I tended to take this at face not hold up under scrutiny. absurdity, and where it instantaneously becomes value, but lately, I have learned to laugh it off as At the Grapevine, we do not buy into the funny. Strangely, many people have a problem any other absurdity. Naturally, some of the criti- hype and the myths surrounding the mystical with that particular movie. cism is actually valid and thoughtfully argued. I Island in the North. We do not sugarcoat the You might think that I am about to make the value such input. But for those who claim that the truth, but present you with Iceland the way it is, tired old argument that people in general are too Reykjavík Grapevine exists for the sole purpose warts and all. We feel that is the most respecful Sveinn Birkir Björnsson, PC. That is an incredibly stale assumption. The of drawing a skewed image of what Iceland, and and honest approach. Editor

Searching for Darkness – a surprisingly successful hunt Like many Reykjavík residents, I was immensely That was a fact I was unaware of when heading black midnight sky. Now it didn’t matter anymore excited about the planned blackout in the city last to Grafarholt in a Peugeot full of friends, that there were no twinkling stars. We finally week. I had admired the idea of a lightless city determined to have a good view over the whole experienced complete darkness. The only light since I first heard Andri Snær Magnason bring it city. Parked next to a number of other cars we in view was a yellow ring up in the sky in the far up in the year 2000 in relation to Reykjavík being waited for the lights to go off. At 22:00 they did. distance, created by the light contamination from one of the European Cities of Culture. Turn Well sorta. Reykjavík, sending a gleam across the sky. off the lights, watch the stars and experience I have to say, it was awesome seeing the In saying I was disappointed with Reykjavík’s the majesty of the sky above. What a brilliant streetlights turned off. The city dimmed and the non-blackout I’m not undermining the whole gesture. At that time the proposal was denied. atmosphere grew relaxing. What pissed me off concept or the effort that was made in attempts Now, six years later, the city council gave it the were all the lights still shining in companies, gas to make it a reality. The idea has not only green light. All streetlamps in the city were to be stations and floodlit buildings in every direction gained well-earned global attention, it also saved turned off for half an hour in the hope of making I looked. Car traffic and fireworks assisted in citizens and the city money in electricity costs. the city as dark as possible. How could one not lighting up the city and spoiling it for the rest of It’s my sincere hope this will become an annual look forward to such a grand performance? us. I have to admit; when I realised this was it. I event. With every repeat occasion, new blackout Steinunn Jakobsdóttir, At the same time as I was excited for the was disappointed. supporters will join the group, someday resulting Journalist event, I was nervous for Magnason, who would As my friends and I were now longing for the in Magnason’s dream coming to majestic fruition. finally see the payoff of all his work. Regardless complete blackness we hoped to experience, and If we look at last week’s event as a rehearsal, next how cooperative the authorities were, in the end not in the mood to drive home just to turn-on the year’s premiere might prove to be a success. it would all depend on the general public and TV, we decided not to drive back downtown, but For me, the event was for the most part a private companies’ participation. in the opposite direction. In search of darkness reminder of how close we are to wilderness. In Text messages and e-mails circulated, we ended up finding ourselves driving out of only 20 minutes or so, urban residents can easily advertisements and posters printed and news the city. At first the streetlights brightened be exposed to a complete natural blackout, and stories written and broadcast, all with the goal up the edge of the road along the way but as no grumpy company owners and party poopers of encouraging people to turn off the lights in soon as we exited Mosfellsbær and approached can spoil that for us. Icelanders are privileged their homes and businesses. No one can say the Þingvallahreppur, there was no light to be seen by how easily we can enjoy the darkness and the PR didn’t do its job well. Still, I was afraid the on the road. With no traffic, the only light “unwrapped sky” just by leaving the city. If there’s solidarity wouldn’t be as expected, as in the end, we got was from the headlights of the car. We one thing I need to thank Magnason for, it is proved to be the case. parked, turned off the lights and gazed up at the simply reminding me of just that.

Lunch special! From 11.00-14.00 The luck is with you

Soup of the day + 1/2 panini + koffee = 940 kr. Espresso bar open every day 08.00-00.00 - Lækjatorg (main squ 6 interview Culture of Constant Change An interview with Róbert Marshall

BY SVEINN BIRKIR BJÖRNSSON PHOTO BY SKARI

Ten months ago, Róbert Marshall was alone were not high, that is true. But you have selected to oversee an exciting experiment for to take into consideration that for the first six 365 Media. The largest media company in months the station only reached 30 percent of Iceland, was creating the 24-hour TV news the nation. If you look at the lowest ratings, station NFS. Less than a year after the station you will see that 6-10,000 people were watch- went on the air, the plug was pulled and the ing the station. But if you combine the 12-14 experiment was regarded a failure. In an effort percent listener ratings for [the radio station] to save the project, Marshall wrote an open Talstöðin, broadcasting the same program, letter, titled “Dear John”, to the owner of 365 the 30,000 people who watched the web-TV, Media, Mr. Jón Ásgeir Jóhannesson, president the 40,000 people who visit visir.is, and the of Baugur Group. He was promptly fired. news on [the popular radio station] Bylgjan In an interview with the Grapevine, Marshall and that we provided news for [the daily discusses the final days of NFS and the future newspaper] Fréttablaðið; if you take all these of Icelandic media. things into consideration, then viewer ratings can never reflect them. Overall, this news /// You quit NFS on Friday September 22, station was providing most Icelanders with the same day you received the termination their news. letter, does that apply to the other 20 who were fired as well? /// It seems as if there is a high employee – Yes, in most cases. The station went off the turnover at 365 Media. Is that the case? air that same evening, so there was nothing – Well, I don’t know how it is overall, but on left to do there. The difference is that I was NFS, it was not very high. We took in a lot of fired on Friday morning, while everyone else new people, and we put an effort into training received a letter later that day. However, it them, we trained the first group of journal- became obvious earlier that I would be parting ists who specialised in stand-alone media ways with the company. On Friday, the week journalism, where people are responsible for before, when [the daily newspaper] Blaðið the whole production process of the news reported that plans were underway to close story. But 365 Media is a young company that NFS, I sat down and reviewed my options. is still going through a development phase. Was I prepared to be a part of that process, It has been trying to establish the right size to close the station and fire all those people? and identity. During such times, it is natural Or should I resign myself? In my mind, the to a higher than average employee turnover. choice was very clear. I had no interest in The nature of the company also encourages a being a part of closing the station, so instead high employment turnover. In a company like of resigning, I chose to write an open letter, this one, there is no constant. The culture you where I stated that from the beginning, eve- try to create is a culture of constant change, rybody involved maintained that it would take where you try to keep the company in constant two to three years to get people to establish development, constantly trying out new ideas the idea. That is, at some point, management to see if they work, and let them pass if they was ready to lose money on the project for two don’t and continue if they do. to three years. So, as soon I wrote the letter I knew that I would probably not be returning /// I’ve heard employees of 365 Media to the company, but I hoped that the station complain about this in particular, that ideas would at least continue. But, everyone knows are not given enough of an opportunity to what it means in English when a girl writes develop, such as perhaps NFS? you a “Dear John.” That is a different kind of – Experience shows that these people’s com- a termination letter. plaints are reasonable. You need stamina to maintain this culture. You have to be sure that /// So you wrote the letter knowing that it you have fully put the idea to the test before would effectively be the last thing you did as you discard it. It is the basic premise for this NFS will be moving towards? victory for one business block over another, an employee of 365 Media? model that things have been fully tried, and I – I think mbl.is has surely been moving in but rather the different models; do you still - Yes, I mean, I wrote a letter directly to the think this is where 365 Media went off track. the right direction, they are focusing on the maintain that the NFS model is a better owner, going over the head of my superiors. internet, and they simply have to take a step one? But I did not write the letter asking for a /// Then isn’t “the culture of constant further. They are doing what NFS was doing, – Yes, I think that is closer to what we will see handout. I was asking people to keep their change” backfiring? in offering a combination of text and video in the future, which is a media synergy, where words and asking for the financial means – Yes, if people don’t know the premises be- material. the combined effects are more important than to continue this experiment, there is a big hind it, and don’t work in accordance with it, that of a single unit. NFS is going to take difference. There is also a difference in being then it will inevitably backfire. Either you are /// Isn’t it embarrassing for NFS then, if this development further. In the near future, a media company under the ownership of this sort of company that I described, or you Morgunblaðið, this institution, is taking the people will be able to choose what news they Baugur and being a Baugur media relations are like [the daily newspaper]Morgunblaðið, lead in this development? watch and when they watch it. The time of company – which NFS was not, and never where you have to go back decades to see the – Yes, it would be. appointment viewing, where viewers gather will be. But it would be naïve to think that the changes made to the paper. in front of the TV screen at a pre-determined owner is not the one who has the reigns. It is /// Well, they have, in my opinion, mbl.is is a time to watch the TV preacher in the form of Rupert Murdoch who decides if Sky is on the /// So, what went wrong? Did the manage- better news site. the news anchor inform on them what hap- air or not, but that does not mean that he is ment lack the courage to keep going? – Yes, it is still the strongest news website in pened today, has ended. influencing editorial poicies. – It lacked the stamina to keep it going. I cre- Iceland. They have an advantage over other ated a budget plan for the company, which I media outlets in that respect. But that is a /// What comes next for Róbert Marshall? /// Many believe that you burnt a lot bridges followed in detail. We also had a revenue plan, good example, because mbl.is has been in – Many people ask me if I am going into when you wrote that letter, that you even which I did not create. Both these plans were operation for a long time, at least ten years I politics. committed professional suicide. Do you presented to the management and accepted. think, and I believe last year was the first time think so? Then obviously, the revenue plan did not hold they showed a profit. /// Are you? – No, I don’t think so. When you take on a water. – It is certainly something that I have consid- particular project under specific premises, /// So they had the stamina to keep it going. ered. At this point, I wonder if I am perhaps you expect those premises to hold. I gave 100 /// Doesn’t that simply mean that the busi- – Yes, exactly. It is just short-sighted to take done with this business and it is time to move percent and I believed in the project and that ness model was not realistic? on a project like this one, without realis- on. Perhaps I could be of use somewhere else. it could be successful. I was willing to fight – No, look. The revenue plan was far off, but ing what it entails and to be ready to put the for it. we had always said that we needed two to project to the test. /// I’ve heard rumours that you’ll be running three years to reach our goals. Sales were in- in the primaries for the Social Democrats in /// Was it a realistic project? creasing; nationwide distribution would have /// It seems that we have managed to draw the south district, is that true? – Absolutely. By bringing in 20 more people, made all the difference in that regard. So you up two different models here. On one hand, - Yes, I have plans to run for a pole position and greatly increasing potential income, we can’t say that model wasn’t realistic, it would the culture of constant change that NFS was in the south district. That is true. I will an- were creating a media where there was no have been realistic if the station had been in working by, and then the slow, conservative nounce it formally soon. limit to the amount of advertising you could full distribution. model used by Morgunblaðið, and at the end sell, we were broadcasting 16 hours each day. of the day, it seems as if Morgunblaðið is left /// What will be your political agenda? We were combining different mediums and /// So the premises were wrong? standing in a better position. - I think there are certain signs of danger re- methods of reporting. I am positive that this is – The premises of the revenue plan were – Yes, but I don’t know if that says anything. I garding civil rights in this country. Especially how the media will develop. wrong. am not sure if we should draw any conclusions regarding freedom of expression. I think it is from that, whether that reflects a final victory a cause for concern if the so-called “War on /// Viewer ratings never met expectations /// Mbl.is [the Morgunblaðið website] has for anyone. Terror” means that our civic rights are being though? been implementing videos along with their curtailed. Then someone else has won. – Viewer ratings for the NFS TV station regular news delivery. Is that a direction /// I am not necessarily referring to this as a

8 news

News in Brief

BY HAUKUR MAGNÚSSON, STEINUNN JAKOBSDÓTTIR, SVEINN BIRKIR BJÖRNSSON AND VIRGINIA ZECH PHOTOS BY SKARI

Farewell to U.S. Forces nason) dream to expose urban youth to the rate doesn’t go up, quite the opposite… People and scholar Ólína Þorvarðardóttir reflected Saturday the 30th of September marked a sig- dark night skies that have influenced culture seemed to whisper and all the sounds went public opinion to the latest developments in nificant chapter in Iceland’s history when the around the world for millennia. The Rey- down [with the lights],” Magnason said. the dam spectacle. “It was foremost Ómar’s American flag was lowered at the now former kjavík City Council agreed to turn off all the The blackout signalled the beginning of call that sparked our interest in marching U.S. military base at Keflavík. After a small city’s streetlamps to participate in the event. the third annual Reykjavík International Film here in Ísafjörður. He has been very diligent ceremony, the Icelandic flag was raised alone Unfortunately, not all privately owned homes Festival (RIFF). More information on RIFF, in calling attention to the impending harm and the closure of the base and the withdrawal and businesses participated, making the event schedules and events, can be found at www. to nature and the environment and people are of the army’s presence in Iceland became of- not quite as black as hoped. In an interview filmfest.is. finally starting to realise that it’s not too late ficial. The U.S. defence force, which has been with the Grapevine, Magnason said, “We to do something about it. This is why we will stationed at Keflavík base since 1951 is gone might look at it as a dress rehearsal.” answer his call and march, expressing our sor- for good and the area now defers to Iceland’s As for the fireworks Reykjavík residents Kárahnjúkar: Final Preparations Begin row over what is happening.” control alone. Many locals celebrated the may have seen or heard, they were unplanned, On the morning of September 28th, the When asked about the effects the Ká- turning point over the weekend by throwing and perhaps served only to exacerbate the bypass tunnel for the Kárahnjúkar Dam was rahnjúkar endeavour had on the people of their own little farewell parties and a large problem of light pollution created by those closed, effectively starting the build up of Ísafjörður Ólína replied that the scope and group cheered the army’s departure at a meet- lights that were left on for the duration of the Hálsalón Lagoon, which will provide the effect of the projects is far greater than anyone ing held at NASA yesterday afternoon. “I’m the half-hour event. Magnason also noted hydro-electric dam with consistent water pres- envisioned. “In environmental and economical still celebrating,” Stefán Pálsson, spokesperson that once the lights went out it seemed that sure. The water level rose fast in the first few terms, the effects are alarming. Here in the for The Campaign Against Military Bases people turned on their headlights and “took to hours, up to 15 metres in four hours and the Westfjords, we have experienced drawbacks told the Grapevine. Yesterday, Pálsson and their cars quite a bit.” Overcast skies further 3rd of October its water level had become 65 due to the inflation caused by the dam, where a bus full of anti-war protesters went on a obstructed the much-anticipated view of metres, but as the canyon widens towards the greatly needed projects such as improving our guided trip to Reykjanes to explore the now constellations, or even the Northern Lights, top the rise of the water level will slow down, dismal road system have been postponed to desolated area, but the area is closed to public in an urban setting. Nevertheless, Magnason and the eventual water level of 200 metres is accommodate it. On another note, the country traffic. stated that he was “quite happy... Even though not expected to be reached until next summer. belongs to all of us; Easterners do not ‘pos- “It was all very informative and very the constellations were not visible, the concept sess’ the Eastern highlands any more than we unreal to walk around such a ghost village and was much bigger than that. [It was] about possess the Westfjords peninsula. This is our think about all the waist that strings along turning off time.” Thousands March For Nature and Ómar heritage and we have an obligation to pass it such military bases. To think about all the Magnason does not view the incomplete Thousands of Icelanders marched in protest on to future generations.” money spent in constructing the buildings, blackness as an indication of failure, however, the 26th of September, in support of retir- which now are empty. Money, which could stating that, “The idea has been going all over ing television reporter and nature enthusiast have been used for something very different.” the globe in newswires… I’ve been talking to Ómar Ragnarsson and his call to the Icelan- Björgólfur Officially Declared Most Successful The struggle is a long way from being over the BBC and PBS and it was in Italian pa- dic government to forego the Kárahnjúkar Human Ever. Sorta though, according to Pálsson. “The situa- pers,” and the Washington Post. The story has dam. Thursday last week saw an epoch in the In a striking turn of events that unfolded tion in the world today shows quite clearly reportedly been featured in news media as far Kárahnjúkar damming process, when water earlier last month, an article in one of Britain’s that we have a lot of tasks on our desks. The away as Australia. “I heard from people [that] was finally released to flood the valley behind premier money mags, The Financial Times, Campaign Against Military Bases is against there was [a] good atmosphere in parts of the the already-built dam. In a public address, declared Icelandic banking tycoon Björgólfur warfare in general and we have been a lead- city. People went out and strolled around with Ragnarsson called for Icelanders to might- Þór Björgólfsson the sexiest billionaire alive. ing force in protesting against wars in Iraq, their neighbours,” Magnason said. He hopes ily protest this, stating that when an unjust Referencing his ‘big blue eyes’ and ‘pleasingly Afghanistan and Lebanon here in Iceland that if people enjoyed the event, and would execution is about to go forth one should imposing Viking stature’, the magazine went for example. With this event, the umbilical like to see it repeated – hopefully growing continue disputing it until the last day. Protest on to recount his noble quest of restoring his cord has been cut and hopefully Icelandic darker with each effort – that they will express walks took place on Laugavegur in Reykjavík, family name after a 1986 business scandal government can now start innovating a new their positive opinions to bolster his efforts in Akureyri, Egilsstaðir and Ísafjörður. Police involving his father. Björgólfsson has yet to independent foreign policy and stop support- to make the blackout an annual occurrence. and organisers disagreed on exactly how comment on the accolades, but is surely con- ing other nations warfare’s.” “I would need some back-up to sell the idea many thousands marched down Laugavegur, templating his next moves in a diamond-stud- What will become of the enormous area at again,” he stated. although both agreed that the numbers were ded, champagne-fuelled private jet somewhere Reykjanes is still uncertain. Only one injury resulting from the event great. According to Reykjavík police esti- over the Atlantic. has been reported. “In the U.S. and in the mates, around seven to eight thousand people The NYU-educated, London-living Toronto area [blackouts] just brought people marched while organisers present decreed it to Björgólfsson made his first millions co-found- Planned Blackout Not So Black As Planned together…. [They] just go into the street and have been up to 15,000. Local media reports ing Russia’s Bravo brewery and now holds Thursday night the 28th of September, Rey- get to know each other,” Magnason told the up to 200 marching in Akureyri, around 100 stakes in several of Iceland’s biggest compa- kjavík experienced the world’s first [known] Grapevine. As in the New York City blackout in Egilsstaðir and 50 people protesting in nies, including national bank Landsbanki and planned blackout. The event marked the in July 2003, increased crime in the darkness Ísafjörður. In conversation with the Grapevine pharmaceutical giant Actavis. He is currently realisation of its architect’s (Andri Snær Mag- of Reykjavík proved a non-issue. “The crime right before the march, Ísafjörður organiser the world’s 350th richest man. Sexy, to boot. Special offer

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Booking phone: Tel: (+354) 562 1011 www.re.is e-mail: [email protected] 10 interview Putting Pop on the Priority List An interview with Bryndís Ísfold Hlöðversdóttir

BY STEINUNN JAKOBSDÓTTIR PHOTO BY SKARI

How to support the Icelandic music industry and promote Icelandic music abroad has been an issue of debate year after year with no clear answer in sight as to how to create an accept- able platform for the industry to grow. While a proposal on an Icelandic Music Develop- ment Fund bounced back and forth between the Ministry of Industry and Commerce and Ministry of Education, Science and Culture, other projects took priority while musicians have had to settle for little, if any, pay and lack of facilities. Meanwhile, some MPs and interest groups have been looking to Sweden for a good example of how to do things right. Export Music Sweden, formed in 1993, has aimed at promoting and marketing Swedish popular music globally, resulting in 6,533 mil- lion SEK total export income from the music industry in 2004 alone. Swedish bands have been the focus of worldwide attention, not only ABBA and Ace of Base, but The Hives, Roxette, Sahara Hotnights, Refused, The Cardigans, The Helicopters, The (Interna- tional) Noise Conspiracy and José González, making Sweden one of the largest exporters of music in the world. Bryndís Ísfold Hlöðversdóttir, a candidate for The Social Democratic Alliance (Sam- fylkingin) in the upcoming primaries, believes the same could be done for the Icelandic music industry. Hlöðversdóttir is making the issue a priority in her campaign by pointing out that investing in musical talents could be a more pleasurable way to create job opportunities than heavy industry plans will ever be.

///You talk about making music a growing industry with opportunities to create jobs. It is an idea that has been brought up a couple of times before. What makes you think now should be a good time for introducing it to the public once again? – Rightfully this is not a new idea and there have been talks on making music a trade for years but nothing has happened. The Alliance Party debated the issue in the 2003 elections and now I’m bringing the issue up again as I think it’s more important now than ever to as a model. It gets around 350 million ISK on what to do, how to apply, etc. We do have for their musicians. Today, royalties are the start focusing on new job opportunities. Re- per year from the government and with that potential but unfortunately, there’s still a lot largest growth area in the export industry, cent protests against Kárahnjúkarvirkjun are amount it can finance film projects and missing. but even though it’s not an extensive part of good examples of what Icelanders don’t want, promote Icelandic films abroad. The result is the Swedish economy, it’s a large industry so instead of making plans on more power that Icelandic movies are gaining worldwide ///Now there are number of individuals who compared to many others. plants, which I think are short-term solutions, recognition. There’s nothing to indicate that have been working hard at creating a setting At the same time the setting has been I want to look at the future and its opportuni- we can’t create the same model for the Icelan- for young musicians, Danny Pollock and quite unfavourable in Iceland. Many art- ties, like those in the music industry. dic music scene, an Icelandic Music Centre. his conception Tónlistarþróunarmiðstöðin ists have proven that it is possible to be quite It is clear we need to adjust to a new world That centre would consist of professionals (The Centre For Musical Evolution) is successful, like Björk, Sigur Rós, Gusgus, and changed situations and one angle to do and individuals who know the industry inside an example, where today 43 bands have Quarashi and Emilíana Torrini to name a few. so is to look at the Icelandic music scene seri- and out, are in touch with the grassroots facilities. Is there any interest in supporting ously, invest in it and emphasise creating a and what’s going on. This new centre would private enterprises like that one and build- ///Making this matter an electoral issue, field for that industry to grow. By that I mean handle export, host concerts, help and support ing upon? what the general public will want to know spending money on marketing and promoting musicians to attend festivals and be a general – What Danny Pollock has been doing is is whether this is profitable for the national as well as distributing Icelandic music abroad adviser for musicians as well as those who really admirable. He has created a healthy economy. and providing suitable facilities. To put popu- want to invest in Icelandic talents, all with the environment for young bands and artists and – In Sweden, it has proven to be quite profit- lar music further on the map so to speak. aim of promoting Icelandic music. has made a great effort in applying for grants able. There, music in general is a growing It’s all just a question of ideology and One idea could also be to cooperate with and keep the centre running. I think it is industry, and bands from around the globe are political stand to say we believe in Icelandic private companies and get them to donate really important to sponsor those kinds of travelling to Sweden to record and seek ex- music and that we prefer to harness people’s empty buildings as rehearsal facilities. Take enterprises and give them better opportunities pertise. Of course it will take time. We won’t talents instead of rivers and rivulets crisscross- the DV building for example, which has been to flourish. be Sweden overnight but in making an effort, ing the country. desolate for a long time. That could be a per- we are getting closer. Music will never be our fect rehearsal facility. Instead the companies ///You talk about government grants. When biggest export or save us when we are all out ///There are a lot of issues to be tackled to wouldn’t need to pay rates. decisions like those end up in a committee of fish in the sea but it is a kind of job creation satisfy everyone. How would you want to see isn’t there always a risk that the grants don’t that will get us far away from outdated think- it done? ///What do you think about the effort being go to the right people? Who will choose on ing. – My idea is to stop thinking of musicians as put into promoting music today? The Trade whom to gamble, how much he should get Marketing music internationally is a costly people with a hobby and start thinking about Council of Iceland for example organised a and why? Who’s going to evaluate the ap- project but a profitable one for the country in them as investments worth financing and pro- trip to the annual Midem music trade fair plications? the long run. The first task is to make music viding them with decent working conditions. in Cannes earlier this year under the banner – Well, what I find practical is to get interest an accepted industry but to do so there needs My aim is to create a platform for the musi- Hear Iceland! where 23 representatives from groups and bodies within the music industry to be some government intervention. cians and give them a space to grow in the 15 companies and organisations were pres- and record companies as consultants, just like It’s not all about profit though. We need form of some sort of development and export ent to promote Icelandic music for possible the Icelandic Film Centre does. The politi- to think about what kind of a country we want grants from the state treasury. As the situation buyers. cians have to create the platform and get the to build and create a more positive image. is today, very few musicians can earn their liv- – Efforts have been made, I’m not undermin- bill through the parliament and after that rely We have everything we need: the talent, the ing by creating music, let alone pay for plane ing that. I don’t know what the trade council’s on the professionals to supervise. people and the interest. It’s all just a question tickets to go abroad, but still we are producing plans are for the future though. There are of harnessing what we’ve got and making a huge amount of music every year. One thing also some grants but in my view that’s just not ///This idea, making music a real industry, music a priority. In my view, that is a far we aren’t lacking is talent and people who are enough. The Airwaves festival is a great en- comes from Sweden, which has become a more prosperous choice than many others and willing to give it all they’ve got if they get the terprise and the travel fund Reykjavík Loftbrú leading music centre. Are you looking at much more joyful choice than the aluminium possibility to do so, but Icelandic musicians an excellent project as well. The drawback Sweden as a model? smelters for example. We can easily market are greatly lacking in funding and facilities. is that there’s no official institution where – Yes, we can learn a lot from Sweden. They ourselves as a country of music, and that is a I want to use the Icelandic Film Centre people can seek guidance, grants and direction have made a very promising environment goal we should seek to achieve. ARM@CP
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FRRN’££UUUGACJ?LB?GPU?TCQAMK opinion The First Brave Step

BY TOSHIKI TOMA

In September, the Kjalarnes deanery of the national third party, faced criticism from debaters in the church. church of Iceland held a conference titled Peace and We had to endure criticism from the gay peoples’ side, Conflict Resolution. Present were two special guests, too, because they often saw us only as a part of the es- Dr. Rodney Peterson of the Boston Theological Insti- tablishment they were trying to change or fight. I think tute and Dr. Raymond Helmick of Boston College, and that there were also people who tried to use the dispute they lectured about their special field, social reconcili- in order to criticise the church, quite apart from its atti- ation and social healing. Dr. Peterson and Dr. Helmick tude to gay peoples’ rights. I have to confess that it was a have both studied social reconciliation as scholars, and really hard time for me, and I felt angry and sad. Many they have also participated in the real process in places must have hoped for more effort towards reconciliation such as Northern Ireland, the Middle East and the city and healing. But since the dispute ended, not enough of Boston. has been done. They analyse the process of social reconciliation and On the day of the Gay Pride festival in Reykjavík in healing using four key concepts: forgiveness, reconcili- August, a Rainbow Mass was held in Hallgrímskirkja ation, restorative justice and community. I can just hear church with many participants. It might have been a readers saying “OK, that’s fine, that’s beautiful!” in a kind of symbolic event to mark a reconciliation between cynical way. It looks too idealistic at first glance. But the church and the gay community. But one of the es- these concepts can help us to understand how the groups sential conditions of reconciliation is to forgive and to we belong to might choose to act in the wake of conflict be forgiven, and this has not happened yet. with another social group. Icelandic society can go ahead, of course, without In the conference, it caught my attention that some making any effort towards reconciliation between the Icelanders tended to find examples of social reconcili- church and the gay community. But we should know ation and healing in the recent history of the Middle by now that a cease-fire with no reconciliation usually East or Sri Lanka, but not in their own experiences in leads to more conflict in the future. Memories of hurt,

“Icelandic society can go ahead, of course, without making any effort towards reconciliation between the church and the gay community. But we should know by now that a cease-fire with no reconciliation usually leads to more conflict in the future.”

Iceland. I remembered a wise old saying: “It is easier to distrust, suspicion and hatred linger in peoples’ minds love the whole world than to love one’s neighbours.” So and resurface over and over. Scholars of social reconcili- I would like to point out one local example that fits into ation and healing point out a pattern. Each side in a the framework of social reconciliation: the “gay” issue. conflict creates its own stories of what happened, and During the recent debate about the legal status of over time they begin to see these stories as a kind of gay people in Iceland, and whether they may be married historical truth. Once two groups have created separate in church or not, there was a lot of conflict. Fortunately stories, it gets more difficult to get each to understand there was no physical violence, but a sort of violence of the other’s story or to put them back on a mutual track. words took place. Many people were hurt spiritually, So I think now is the right time to work for rec- and many human relationships were torn. onciliation, not in a year or two. In doing so we would Ultimately, the synod of the Icelandic church need to recognise that the parties involved still disagree recommended an ongoing effort to examine the issue and will continue to disagree for some time at least. theologically. But another important thing here is that What we need to concentrate on is not solving the one would hope to see some kind of reconciliation and puzzle, but showing our counter-disputants the same healing follow the conflict, but it has not yet taken human respect that we show to those who are on “our place. side.” We should encourage all participants to recognise I would like to make it clear that I am not trying that they have hurt others and have themselves been to bring up the issue of what is the right or the wrong hurt, too. That would allow us to take the first step in doctrine for the church. I would like you to remember reconciliation: asking for forgiveness. Again, asking for the fact that many were hurt during the debate. forgiveness doesn’t mean giving in to the other person’s Many gay people and their supporters left the arguments. Asking for forgiveness ensures that people church during these debates. Some announced their who disagree can live together in the same society, and departure in public, and some others just left. I know can continue the discussion when the time comes to some of them personally and I could see anger, disap- move forward again. pointment and irritation among them, but most of all, The final question, and my only question, is who sadness. Those who sit on the other side were wounded, should take the first step? Who will express their long- too. I mean those who were not willing to support ing to be forgiven? For me, as a pastor in the national expanded rights for gay people. I am sure that they had church, it seems quite clear and obvious that we, the reasons not to. They got harsh criticism from society, church, should act first. Do we not teach forgiveness which must have been tough for them. and reconciliation? The annual ecclesiastical council is There were people in a third position and I myself coming up now, in October. I hope that the church will was among them. These people were inside the church use this opportunity to take the first, brave step towards and yet supported the gay people. We, those in this reconciliation with the gay community.

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NEWS | BACK ISSUES | PODCASTS | LISTINGS | REVIEWS Himinn og haf / SÍA I=:=6AAG@?6;G>:C9HD;I=:6GIHHD8>:IN opinion

6cYg‚8VbegV/ Fear of a Colourless 9Zegd[jcY^h Society BZhhZYZGZfj^Zb 8DC8:GI >C=6AAG@?6 G:N@?6KÏ@ GABRIELE R. GUÐBJARTSSON

It was the spring of 2003 when I ex- culture. In this way, expectations are CDK:B7:G*i] perienced Iceland for the first time. clear, making life much easier for its '%%+*E#B# The country completely captivated citizens. It’s kind of like a McDon- me and I wanted to fit in as much as ald’s cheeseburger. No matter where  I could in the little time I had. So you go in the world, a McDonald’s at the tail end of my trip, I decided cheeseburger always tastes the same. to dip into the pools at Laugar to see I will leave it at that. what all the hot tub fuss was about. On the other hand, cohabitating While sitting back and relaxing in a diverse society is not such a bad in the euphoric steam, I noticed a gig either. Living in New York for very determined Icelandic toddler, the past five years has redefined the cloaked in hot pink floaties, swim- concept of the “melting pot” for me. ming up to me. When I taught in Brooklyn, New This child, who could not have York, I never felt like I was actually been more than one year old, was in Brooklyn because by 8:30 a.m. so bent on reaching me that I was a the world was at my door. In one of little worried that the girl thought I my middle school English classes was her mother. (Clearly a long shot, alone my students came from Haiti, but stranger things have happened.) Pakistan, El Salvador, Russia, India, Soon after, the child stopped di- Guyana, Bangladesh, Mexico, rectly in front of me, reached out her Trinidad, Nigeria, Puerto Rico and hand and touched my face. Next, Albania. The beauty of diversity she stroked my hair. For the next is that I learned as much from my two minutes I allowed the sheer students as they learned from me. honesty of a child to invade my I was spoiled and naïve to think H8=DA686CIDGJB comfort zone. It was by far the most that any other city could create the innocent expression of curiosity I multi-cultured atmosphere that I]Z>ciZgcVi^dcVa7VgdfjZDgX]ZhigVd[I]Z=V\jZ had ever encountered. Yet, I thought was encompassed by Brooklyn. The Hdad^hih[gdbHX]daVXVcidgjb to myself, has this child ever seen thing about diversity is that it allows XdcYjXidg=ŽgÂjgÌh`Zahhdc

I>8@:IH>C=6AAG@?6™>H@'#%%%$&#*%% “My biggest fear in moving to Iceland was not the temperamental weather, the colossal import tax or the hideous trolls that live in the surrounding mountains. What kept me up at night was the lack of diversity that plagued this unexploited island.”

a black person before? Do people different to be the norm and change of colour inhabit any of this land? to be more than acceptable. And, as Little did I know that in a few years we all know, the only certainty in I would be the one answering those this crazy world is change. very same questions. Unlike France, where fed-up My biggest fear in moving to immigrants stormed the streets last Iceland was not the temperamental year demanding equality and an end weather, the colossal import tax or to an institutionalised racist system, the hideous trolls that live in the Iceland has not given off vibes mountains. What kept me up at of a racist society in my opinion. night was the lack of diversity that Although people may have experi- plagued this unexploited island. enced racist incidents, I think the Over the seven or eight times that blame comes down to an ignorant I ventured back here before my of- few who have not been educated on ficial move, the lack of colour in the the waves of change occurring in the faces I ran across led me to believe world around us. Xenophobia, a fear that my experience was going to be of that which is foreign or different, dismal. At this point I had to stop will exist in every society because and ask myself, how am I going people will always be people. How- to cope with living in a colourless ever, how a country deals with a society? cultural shift is critical and needs to After researching and discuss- be thought about with precision and ing the issue with several people, I an open mind. have discovered that there are a few Based on my time in Iceland benefits to existing in a homogene- thus far, I have been pleasantly ous society. First, tradition is highly surprised by the integration of valued and maintained by the peo- thousands of immigrants onto this ple. Whether it is because they are isolated island nation. I have met passed down by individual families more minorities than I expected and or held up by the government, Ice- can honestly write that I no longer landers hold onto to their customs find Iceland to be as colourless as I quite firmly. Icelandic calendars are perceived two years ago. Although excellent tools for total strangers to it will take time for non-Iceland- learn about holidays and celebra- ers to emerge from the pockets and tions that keep traditions alive from find themselves in the mainstream, generation to generation. Second, it makes me smile to report that the the idea of “normal” is understood last time I visited Laugar, I was not by all in homogeneous societies. the only individual with an invisible The concept of knowing and see- “Touch Me” sign on their forehead. ing what is normal on a daily basis serves to be quite comforting for any The only guide that tells you the talk of the swimming pools, how to find the best cafes, how to recover from all night parties, an A to Z of Icelandic music and what "Viltu kaffi?" can really mean. Travel Guides Can Be Honest. Really

Available at your nearest bookstore 16 art

A Basic Form of Communicating Valgeir Sigurðsson takes the stage, finally

BY HAUKUR MAGNÚSSON PHOTO BY SKARI

“Music has been intertwined with my life further. Our first project was the Dancer in or 50, everybody operates on the same level tions to release the best in experimental and from the age of six. Actually, I didn’t give up the Dark soundtrack and it kind of evolved in regards to conveying ideas and emotions unorthodox music. Formed around Sigurðs- my soul to it until I turned nine and started from there, we never planned on working through music. It serves as a basic form of son, Muhly and Reykjavík-based Australian playing an instrument. After that, there was together for as long as we did.” communication and interaction that everyone composer extraordinaire Ben Frost, the label no turning back, really,” says soft-spoken Was it intimidating to work with her at participates in. released its début last month, Muhly’s criti- Valgeir Sigurðsson. first? “Their attitude towards music betrays a cally acclaimed Speaks in Volumes. October After an industrious career as a record- “No, not at all. It probably helped that certain purity in their culture, whereas our will see the release of Frost’s Theory of Ma- ist and producer in his recording studio I wasn’t a particular fan of hers, although culture seems to have alienated a large por- chines and Sigurðsson’s anticipated solo début Greenhouse, recording artists such as Björk, that would change as I got to know her. I tion of the population. Here in Iceland for is tentatively planned. Bonnie ‘Prince’ Billy and múm, he is just approached it as just another job to be done, instance, it’s more common for people over “Nico and I were originally discussing now stepping into the limelight as a musician an attitude I probably learned from [Unun 30 to withdraw themselves from those forms doing a project together that we felt might after more than a decade of working in the guitarist] Þór Eldon while touring the world of culture, perhaps feeling that they should be difficult to get a decent release for. So, we shadows. This is due more to the nature of his with him. I learned a lot from his outlook on rather leave it to knowledgeable cultural bea- figured we might as well release it ourselves work than personal modesty, although those things, one of them being that no matter how cons. This is unfortunate, as I feel that music and started conceiving the Bedroom Com- who meet him will attest he isn’t lacking in famous or notorious someone is, in the end, talks to us on so many levels, be they primal, munity. When Ben moved to Iceland, I told that department either. A quiet, contemplative they’re still just people.” sexual, intellectual… It’s a universal language him of the idea and invited him to join. He demeanour gives off the air of someone who Since working on Dancer in the Dark, if there ever was one.” liked it and wanted to be part of it, after that would rather just do his work properly than Sigurðsson has steadily added successful What determines the value of a piece of it became serious. We’ve been working hard at boast of it. the project for the last year, doing idea work “I started off as most people do, perusing and preparations, and it’s therefore pleasing to my parents’ record collection, listening to the “If you only want to partake in something to financially watch it manifest now. Although we’ve only Beatles, strumming a tennis racquet, however, got our own records planned at this time, we my uncles quickly exposed me to what was benefit from it, I have no interest in speaking with you. see the community as a growing organism happening in punk and new wave at the time. that will continue to thrive for a long time.” soon enough I was making ritualistic visits to I can’t relate to that mode of thought at all, although I Sigurðsson explains that there is indeed a the Grammið record store whenever I got to wide audience for the type of music they plan Reykjavík [Sigurðsson was born and raised suppose it must be a valid one since so many people on releasing – reaching it is just a matter of in the small town of Blönduós]. I remember distribution and aggregation. However, there going by myself to see Crass play Laugard- are practicing it.” is no business plan: “I feel that viewing music alshöll at age 12. I was pretty scared of all the as a consumer product severely diminishes its large punkers,” he says, laughing. Soon after value. This is one of the reasons we’re operat- moving to Reykjavík for high school at age 16, projects and collaborations to his résumé. His music for you? ing the project on a smaller scale and putting Sigurðsson found a job at a recording studio. level of professional respect, probably culmi- “There are many factors. It’s hard to say our own money into it, rather than, say, secur- Describing it as “a way out from a school I nated when he was asked to provide Britney exactly. Often, I will look for a certain integ- ing funding from an investor. I have a limited couldn’t find myself in,” the job quickly took Spears with some songs for consideration [he rity in the artist, if that is missing then there belief in anyone who invests in such a project over his life, eventually leading him to decide gracefully declined]. When asked what deter- isn’t really anything to get from it. When to make money. that music was what he wanted to devote his mines his decision to work with an artist, he you make something that’s been determined “If you only want to partake in something life to. says the most important thing will always be to push someone’s buttons, to please them, to financially benefit from it, then I have no The early nineties saw Sigurðsson record the possibility of a dialogue between the two. it’s unlikely to have any merit. That said, I interest in speaking with you. I can’t relate his first full-length records, but he says it was “Music is a form of communication. In order immediately feel an urge to contradict myself. to that mode of thought at all, although I through his work with Bad Taste recording to make it you have to work with someone You can of course make excellent calculated suppose it must be a valid one since so many artists Magga Stína and Unun [for whom he that you can communicate with. There needs pop music too.” people are practicing it. The Bedroom Com- ended up serving as a keyboardist] that he to be a level of trust, that really serves as the In the past year and a half, Sigurðsson munity will have to find its feet without started gaining momentum. Setting up his basis for everything else.” has embarked on his most ambitious project an investment from someone who’s simply own studio in 1997 was a milestone, as would He speaks enthusiastically of a recent visit to date: setting up an eclectic record label hoping to advance his capital. Expectations of a fruitful collaboration with Björk that com- to Mali, where he was fascinated by how the with two close friends. At first conceived as a productivity and revenue only serve to create a menced the following year. “She was moving natives approach music. “It’s a purer form of means to release a collaboration between Sig- negative pressure that stifles creative thought. back to Iceland and wanted someone to work communication, something that really under- urðsson and New York-based composer Nico And we are creating this forum to be free of with. She invited me to try my hand at it, and lines the difference between our culture and Muhly, Bedroom Community quickly evolved such things.” I guess we both liked it enough to collaborate theirs. In Mali, it doesn’t matter if you’re five into a full-fledged ‘boutique label’ with ambi- All back issues available online 1400 articles, listings and daily news from Iceland

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Connecting Through Music Will Oldham speaks of art, entertainment and recording in Breiðholt

BY HAUKUR MAGNÚSSON PHOTOS BY STEVE GULLICK

For the past decade, musician Will Oldham When something bad happens, it usually – That’s good [laughs]. Well, the goal was to tive, it might risk the possibility of a positive – also known under the moniker Bonnie makes me feel safe because I know you can’t work with the people we had at hand to come relationship between us. I am not very good at ‘Prince’ Billy – has proven to be a prolific and have too many bad things happen on a given up with the record we came up with. I didn’t expressing myself in those ways, so if I want important voice in contemporary music, ex- day. Like a sort of karmic distribution, yeah. think about anybody else’s records in rela- something from somebody, I’m pretty much panding his audience and cultural impact with It could be a precursor to worse things, but I tion to this one, sometimes I do but this time fucked. I don’t know how to ask for anything each new release. Therefore, it was pleasing to think that you’re safe as long as you take it as I didn’t since I managed to gather a pool of unless I have some solid way of speaking their learn that his latest release, The Letting Go, a symbol right away and try to attend to your individuals that was collectively so strong. If language, which takes a lot of effort. The was recorded in Reykjavík, with fabled Björk karmic issues rather than just, say, accepting it there’s something there that you recognise as language of individuals who are themselves, collaborator Valgeir Sigurðsson acting as a as something terrible. The instant you accept carrying forward some of Valgeir’s past work, in their own way creating and living in their producer. Wanting to learn more about what things as being terrible, you’re really just ask- then that’s pretty cool. In gathering musi- own linguistic system, it’s challenging to find drove him to record in our revered city, and ing for more bad things to happen to you. cians and recordists for making a record, I’ve a way to express the desire to collaborate, to what drives him in general, the Grapevine lo- always hoped to represent a good example of find a way of entry. cated Oldham in Louisville, Kentucky, where /// Recording an album with Valgeir Sig- the work of people I’m collaborating with at a With Dawn McCarthy from Faun Fables it has been raining a lot lately. urðsson must have been a new experience given time. [a prominent voice on The Letting Go], it to you, as he is very involved, probably the took me years of listening to their records /// Good evening. Is this Mr. Oldham? and communicating, doing a couple of shows – Yeah. How are you? together, spending time with her here and “Big heroes of mine in music, people like country sing- there before I felt we were on strong enough /// I am a bit stressed out. grounds to broach the subject of collaboration. – Yeah, me too. er Merle Haggard or the R&B giant R Kelly, I don’t know I felt she wouldn’t have understood because I was seeing her do things that I strive for /// Really? if it will ever happen, but some day I want to do some- or am perplexed or fascinated by – or even – Yeah. pissed with – it might be difficult for her to thing with them in a recording studio.“ understand why I feel there’s a connection /// Why are you stressed out? between what we do. I want her to know I am – What do you mean why am I stressed out? approaching her music with respect. If that opposite of people like one of your former /// Like paying a tribute, or spreading the doesn’t translate, and you get the collaboration /// You just said you were. producers, Steve Albini. word about things you like? by coercion, then the working relationship – Yeah. Well, I got back last night after being – I am very pleased with the results. It’s a – And wanting to learn from these things. probably isn’t going to be a good one. In any out of town and now I am preparing for a different approach for sure, but both of their I think the best opportunity to learn from case, I have a tremendous respect for Dawn tour. It’s hard work. Just now, when I went personalities become so involved. There’s someone is to have an interaction with them, and the whole of Faun Fables. They remind to answer the phone, I went into a room I a different quality and quantity of knob in the studio for instance. That’s very valuable me of how great things can be and how great haven’t been in since I got back. There’s been turning, but in terms of infusing the experi- to me. they are. They help point me in the right a lot of rain lately, and I just discovered that ence with their person, it’s not dissimilar. It’s direction sometimes when I feel directionless there’s been a leak in this room. There’s lot of always a different experience. Ideally, it does /// By now, you’re probably in a position that or lost. plaster on the floor from when the rain flowed affect the music in a good way. The reason to anyone would love to work with you. through the roof. It’s frustrating because the work with anyone for a record has to do with – Well, a lot of the people I admire are folks /// You feel you’ve strayed off course in the rain has been so extreme that it’s probably go- the desire for him or her to affect the music in who don’t even know I exist. I like all dif- past? ing to be very hard to find a repairman who’s a good way. ferent kinds of musicians from all over the – Not necessarily. It’s a daily concern, you available. world that I may never even get the chance to know, tending to direction. I don’t feel like I appreciate when bad things like this hap- /// One of the things I noticed from the new see play, let alone work with. I won’t tell you I’ve severely strayed off course, but that’s be- pen, however, because I know that bad things record is that in a way it’s reminiscent of who they are, however, so I can keep silently cause I tend to direction with such persistence. have to happen to all of us and if that’s the some of Valgeir’s past work with Björk and praying and hoping that active movement Being on the right track is a lot of work. worst bad thing that happens, then I feel safer. others. can draw me to them. If I become pro-ac- feature 19

/// You spoke of a tour. Are there any plans to come to Iceland? – No, nothing planned for now. This tour will take me through Middle America and then the West Coast, that’s it for now. In the beginning of next year, we’ll try to do some shows in Israel and Turkey. I am a little uncomfortable with going to Israel, but yeah, I think it’s a good idea. I feel the opportunity is there and I am into conquering ignorance – that’s among my own principles. It’ll be interesting to see the audience that comes to those shows; you don’t really have a concep- tion of a normal human being on any side of the conflict that’s going on there, which is all we’ve known throughout my lifetime, at least. I am thinking there must be more ways to look at it; I am counting on it in fact.

/// Has your worldview changed a lot in the past decade? I notice listening to your early records such as Arise Therefore that they seem all dark, conveying a certain bleakness even, while the later ones seem more accept- ing and content in a way. You reference love a lot, and seem to be using it in the universal sense… – Yeah, it’s more of a universal kind of love. It’s about trying to learn from the works of others. Also trying to express a desire to open- ness and for connection that can only come with something that’s greater than respect. It has to do with acceptance, a kind of harmony.

/// Are you then documenting a personal journey, sending out messages to the world? – I can only hope. Doing what can be done. But maybe not. If I said I was documenting something or delivering a message, that sets me up for potential failure. I don’t want to say that there’s a goal and I don’t feel like a goal is something that reveals itself. You know you work at moving towards something, know- ing that in the shortest term you’re moving towards the next thing and in the next one you’ll be moving towards your own death, which is an end in itself. After that, you’re heading towards infinity. None of those things are definable or foreseeable; therefore, an unreached goal would count as a failure. Music should of course be a goal in and of itself, but it should also be a goal that has re- verberations that continue towards those other ends and everything that is between now and lyrics and chord progressions and melodies. – Yeah, but with the understanding that the a mutual understanding can be formed. those things. I try and reach for such things It’s rewarding when I find a broader audience greatest possible audience might not be that It’s nice whenever I finish a recording or a because, yeah, that’s what I listen and look out that doesn’t think I’m too crazy. Trying to great. I want to reach a wide audience, but I tour and I feel like I’ve done something that I the window for. make something for that audience to experi- also want to continue to make music that I could share with someone that I want to have ence, also knowing that at some level I will be wouldn’t disdain or resent. You always com- a communication with, if I feel that it could /// You obviously see yourself more as an art- sharing that experience. My absolute, purest promise to a certain extent, but it’s important explain to them how I value their listenership, ist than an entertainer. particular taste would not be something that not to go too far. It happens all the time that like with that record. I feel with any music – I feel I have a responsibility to fulfil as an could be appreciated on a grand scale. It just Domino asks me to do this and that, like, there are people who might not be able to ac- entertainer. Here’s more: say an artist has wouldn’t. That’s why it’s more important to ‘Why don’t you want to be on a cover of a cess it unless it’s through a specific recording. his field, be it painting, sculpture, theatre or me to make a record that serves itself and magazine or do more press or tour more?’ I Big heroes of mine in music, people like coun- music. My goal, then, would be to be an artist serves its audience as well. If I really made want to do that for them, and I understand try singer Merle Haggard or the R&B giant R whose field was entertainment. I think of a record to just serve myself I would end up what they are saying, but I would be at a loss Kelly, I don’t know if it will ever happen, but entertainment as being very serious and im- alone in a dark, wet room, you know, that’s to continue afterwards. some day I want to do something with them portant, from Laurel and Hardy and upward. not really where I want to be tomorrow. I’d For instance, Greatest Palace Music [an in a recording studio. I don’t know if there’s It has to do with emotions of release, giving rather do more things that are in the light and album where Oldham covered and ‘softened anything I can do to make that happen, rather up or extreme hilarity and absurdity. What than continue doing things my way and hop- does ‘entertainment’ mean, anyway, and what’s ing that some day that weird, magical gateway the difference between that and art? “I would say the main, important difference was that art will open. I would say the main, important difference I’ll finish a song, and hope it could make was that art isn’t necessarily funded by the isn’t necessarily funded by the consumer but entertain- them understand how I admire them. I don’t consumer but entertainment always is. In that necessarily think I’ve done anything that Mer- way, entertainment is a million times more ment always is. In that way, entertainment is a million le Haggard would understand, he’s one of the important to me than art and being an enter- people that I admire most in the world, but tainer is more important to me than being an times more important to me than art and being an enter- I know that there are weird things with my artist. The relationship with the audience is so records that I don’t expect him to even need direct, while the government or rich collec- tainer is more important to me than being an artist.” to extend himself towards because he seems so tors are going to pay for something that is art, fulfilled by his own explorations. It’s a huge rather than the person who is actually going thing to imagine that he would, but I know to have a relationship with the piece. That’s with the community. A good record of mine up’ some of his older songs with a selection he does listen to music and that it’s a possibil- what’s most important to me about what I do. should involve my needs, the listeners’ and of Nashville’s finest] wasn’t done to conform ity. I thought the song I Called You Back on I feel the value of my work is determined very the other people who worked on the record. If to anyone’s standards. It’s still really exciting The Letting Go was something he might have precisely by the audience. I manage that, then I feel I’ve accomplished when something like that happens, that allows sung, but I don’t think he would even like it, something but ultimately it is the audience for a different group of people to access the even if that recording of that song is my most /// Do you then try and find out what it’s that holds the lion’s share of determining if a music. The same as with The Letting Go, a favourite thing that I’ve been involved with. likely to go for? record is worthwhile. couple of days ago there was a review of it on He probably wouldn’t think it was anything at – I think that is important to some extent. [American] National Public Radio (www.npr. all, but it doesn’t change the fact that I totally /// Kind of like being a selfish lover. You just org). That was exciting to me because I feel love that song, and it doesn’t change the fact /// You really do that? end up making love to yourself? like a lot of people don’t get to listen to good that I totally revere him. It’s a strange predica- – I think I do. I came at this thing not as a – Yeah. At the same time, there are inconsid- music or see great movies because of cultural ment. creator, but as an audience member. Before I erate lovers who retain their marital union for barriers that have arisen between them and made things, I was an audience member and a lifetime. There are inconsiderate musicians that. People will listen and they won’t know /// It might not translate to the general a lot of what I’m doing when creating things who continue to make music without giving how to get it. They’ll sit and ask themselves, population. It’s not necessarily weird music, is about wanting to evolve as such. To develop a shit. You know it’s shitty, I know it’s shitty; ‘How am I supposed to be relating to this?’ there is a certain aesthetic you need to tend a richer and more interconnected relationship still they continue to make records and get The only way for my entire audience to to in order to be able to get all there is from with the audience member. If I, say, create a accolades. appreciate the music is if they come to it of it. Like adding to your vocabulary. record and ask Valgeir, Don, Emmet and Jim their own accord and find something in it that – Yeah, exactly. And you know, a lot of the to collaborate, it is because I, the audience, /// You want to reach the widest audience satisfies them as individuals. I’ll do what I can >>> continues on next page want to hear them work together with these possible? do and they’ll do what they can and hopefully, 20 feature

people that I admire the most, people like a lot of great music on there, but at the end really super important little hints of how a some of the great pools that are there. I can’t Dawn [McCarthy] or Ben [Chasny, of Six of the day I think the visual takes away from creative dynamic can work. remember the names of my favourite ones, but Organs of Admittance], Merle Haggard or the experience of the music. I like the idea of Now, there were some rough spots, but I liked having a slide. A slide is important, as R Kelly, those are people that I don’t think being in some ways available to the audience, for the most part, it was a smooth, enjoyable is hot water. My priorities, when swimming, necessarily need to expand their vocabulary but I ultimately don’t think of it as something process. When it comes to recording sessions, are having hot water and a big slide. because their world seems so huge and fulfill- I would really want to get involved with at this I am not the most relaxed person in the world. As for the darkness, I thought I was look- ing in itself. Maybe they don’t feel that way, point. It’s a short, expensive amount of time to focus ing forward to it in a way, to needing to focus maybe they’re constantly seeking something on and realise a year-and-a-half of ideas, to on each other, on all of us who were involved and I don’t recognise it because they sound so /// Even though you’re pretty good look- just try and cram all those ideas together. in the recording process instead of the sun. confident and appealing to me. ing… Communicating with people in terms of the Most of the time we were recording it was – That shouldn’t have anything to do with the music itself, paying attention to their actions rainy and grey, even when it was light out /// Maybe as an artist, you shouldn’t seek to experience of my music, no matter how hand- and performances in the recording studio, it’s it was rainy, grey and cold. We tracked and expand your vocabulary, but that’s some- some I am. Is there anything else you’d like super tense and demanding. But it’s also very tracked and once we had done the tracking, thing that’s necessary to you as an audience? to know? I should really start looking into my rewarding. I love that part, but it’s really hard. we went away for the weekend, to this little – Yeah, as an artist I don’t want to. Do- roof situation… country house that Valgeir’s father has, to lis- ing something that’s beyond my abilities or ten to all the songs. That was amazing, being vocabulary just for the sake of doing it is not a in that stormy, isolated, traumatic landscape good idea. However, if you’d pick ten records “There are inconsiderate lovers who retain their mari- in a warm little cabin. We had a bunch of randomly out of my collection, it would be whale meat we stir fried, that was great and difficult for you to make the connection, tal union for a lifetime. There are inconsiderate musi- delicious. while to me it is both natural and impossible Also, for the whole time we were there, to define. It’s only like five percent of the time cians who continue to make music without giving a Dawn [McCarthy] was fascinated by your that there is going to be a way to make a con- Christmas visitors (the 13 Icelandic Santa nection and that’s what has been mind-blow- shit. You know it’s shitty, I know it’s shitty; still they Clauses). That became a running theme for ingly fortunate about working with Dawn, for the stay as we’d learn more and more about instance. It doesn’t mean I’d be dissatisfied continue to make records and get accolades.” them. They were really grim, and that’s right with my life if I didn’t make a connection up our alley, a part of the attraction. with Merle Haggard or this Indonesian group called Surosama. It doesn’t mean life sucks. /// Yeah, you should definitely get going. /// How was the experience of staying here /// Did you learn about the Christmas cat? It’s not even a missed opportunity because it For the sake of our readers, could you maybe in general? And did the darkness affect you – Yeah, I think that’s great, saying he’ll eat helps me know the limits of what that com- spare five minutes on how you came to at all [The Letting Go was recorded in the you if you don’t get new clothes for Christmas. munication is. Then I can continue making record in Iceland? months of December and January, when the You need that kind of stimulation to be able to music at the level of other artists and audience – A couple of years ago, Björk and Matthew sun is more or less absent from Iceland.]? accept sucky presents. members. The bulk of the music I listen to is Barney contacted me about providing a voice – We started out with the musicians staying At the end of the tracking process, we music that I’m always going to be an audience for one of the songs on Drawing Restraint in a hotel in downtown Reykjavík. It wasn’t scheduled a day off where we went driving member for, and that’s great. Ideally, most 9, something I was very happy to be asked I very satisfying since we lost a bit in travel- around the countryside a bit. There was a full people who connect to my music are going to might add, and Valgeir was the one recording ling time and it was also kind of anonymous moon and when it cleared up it was beautiful. do it in relation to their own universe and not it. It was great and afterwards, Valgeir said, and cold, being a hotel. So Valgeir’s brother We drove around all day and the whole time mine. That’s why it’s mass produced; so it can reminiscing about our musings from the Björk Míó – whose presence contributed a lot to we had the moon sitting on one side of the have existence in the places that I myself will tour a few years ago that he thought it would our stay – he soon found this wonderful older horizon and the sun sitting on the other side. never reach. be a good idea for us to work together. I fig- woman named Svana who rents rooms out of For the whole time we were out it stayed that ured that it would of course be a perfect way her house just a short trip from Greenhouse way, and it was magical, in a way. /// Would you like to participate in the of making the record I’d been writing at that studios, after we got that it was just magical. mainstream to a greater extent, to spread out time. Also, it was great to have just completed We all had our cosy little bedrooms and she A web-exclusive extended dance-mix of this the impact of your influence? a short recording session with him. It was would make a little breakfast for us, each day interview can be found at Grapevine.is. There’s – No, I mean. I wouldn’t necessarily want to manifest seeing him working and choosing we would feel more a part of where we were, some really interesting stuff there, so you should be a featured MTV artist, even though there’s the sounds, recording and playback, those are you know. We’d go swimming every day in really check it out. ^i»h[gZZ

Issue 16, 2006 8 Page Listings Section in Your Pocket

Another Glorious Week of Noise Once again, the whole of Reykjavík, nay Iceland, braces events taking place all over 101 Reykjavík. of Iceland’s crop serve up its finest offerings non-stop for itself to welcome the annual Iceland Airwaves festival For the visiting music enthusiast, Airwaves five whole days. and the plethora of young and exciting musical talent offers many prospects to broaden one’s horizons. Visiting Judging by past experience, the safest plan to experience it brings, both local and international. The festival has artists such as Kaiser Chiefs and the Go! Team offer up what Airwaves can offer at its chaotic best is to forego ex- steadily grown ever since its inception as a means to a serving of what’s often referred to as ‘hot’ in the outside pectations and plans altogether, opting instead to wander promote Icelandic dance legends Gusgus in 1999, and world, but it’s the local talent that should be the real cause randomly around the venues and the city, taking in what has seen some now-revered musicians off to greater fame. for excitement and what will most likely give participants catches your eyes and ears at any given moment. HM Now being held for the eighth time, Iceland Airwaves the defining moments of their visit. Iceland has a thriving boasts what can likely be called its most impressive music scene going all year with concerts happening all Iceland Airwaves takes place at various places in 101 line-up ever, with nearly 200 artists performing at eight over the country regularly, but the truly good thing about Reykjavík, October 18-22. For a full festival schedule and venues. And that’s not counting the numerous off-venue Airwaves is that it offers a chance to witness the cream further info, visit: www.icelandairwaves.com. Music and nightlife events usually start around ½[SLUKPUNHOLYZ]LP[PUYLSLHZLJVUJLY[ 21:00, unless otherwise stated. Pubs close at 01:00 I=J:H96N¶&%D8ID7:G on weekdays and much, much later on weekends. NASA 1V[,S\IKL9HYPZ3VOUU`96N¶+D8ID7:G VEGAMÓT HÁSKÓLABÍÓ KAFFI HLJÓMALIND (starts at 14:00) *SMVUZA -VU+HSSP/\UR +SVVK0YV\WPUJVUJLY[MVSSV^LKI` KAFFIBARINN KAFFIBARINN -3*UUH+Yk 4SV]U¡-3ZL[ PRIKIÐ SIRKUS -3;HNNP 5HKPLZ7PNO['*TLYPJHZ7L_[=VW ANGELO 6VKLSHUKOV\ZL-3 5P]LT\ZPJ /YHUaHUK4YPZ[{MVSSV^LKI`-3 PRIKIÐ AMSTERDAM -HUUP-LS\_L 3HTZLZZPVU^P[O/¶1T\ZPJZJOVVS PRIKIÐ Z[\KLU[Z 9LYMLJ[-PZVYKLYHUKN\LZ[Z L:9C:H96N¶&-D8ID7:G HRESSÓ DILLON -3³YUP<]LPUZ 6\NPZVUPUJVUJLY[ KAFFIBARINN -30\SSPºZ{TH I=JGH96N¶&'D8ID7:G PRIKIÐ BAR 11 gN*UKYVTHUK;V`HS/VY[\ULPU -39SH[\YU 6€T¡-3ZL[ JVUJLY[ +LNNP+S\LZIHUK CAFÉ OLIVER SIRKUS BAR 11 RÓSENBERG -396N¶'%D8ID7:G -3/€ZP ANGELO 12 TÓNAR (starts at 17:00) AMSTERDAM 2JLSHUK*PY^H]LZMLZ[P]HS' -3*SMVUZA -VU+HSSP/\UR ^^^PJLSHUKHPY^H]LZJVT 6k[PUJVUJLY[MVSSV^LKI`-36HNNP KAFFIBARINN KAFFIBARINN GRAND ROKK, PRAVDA, GAUKU- HRESSÓ RINN, THE NATIONAL THEATRE -34kYP 2JLSHUK*PY^H]LZMLZ[P]HS' BASEMENT, REYKJAVÍK ART *U[OVU`9HWWH PRIKIÐ ^^^PJLSHUKHPY^H]LZJVT MUSEUM, IÐNÓ AND NASA NASA GRAND ROKK, PRAVDA, GAUKU- 1HSSP;L`UPZPUJVUJLY[ RINN, THE NATIONAL THEATRE ;L`RQH]vR0YHWL]PULWYLZLU[Z /YHUaHUK4YPZ[{MVSSV^LKI`-3 RÓSENBERG BASEMENT, REYKJAVÍK ART @LZ[MVYKZZWLJPHS'96N¶&(D8ID7:G 17:30) 5H`5V^4PYH4PYH6PKP*TIPLU[HUK -32UN]PHUK-34VJVVU -3

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;CA71 others. For more info visit: www.nordicmusicdays.is. CAFÉ & - Tíu Dropar &* Café Victor '' Pravda '* Ölstofan '- Kaffibr Café Roma oaj]d]kk Laugavegur 27 Hafnarstræti 1-3 Austurstræti 22 Vegamótastígur Pósthusstr f]logjc Laugavegur 118 A very nice, old-fashioned café. It’s sub- Spelled with a C rather than the Icelandic Pravda is one of the biggest clubs/bars in Ölstofan is an unpretentious, comfortable Café, bistro, restauran terranean, as all traditional coffee shops K, presumably in an effort to seem more downtown Reykjavík, situated in one of and straightforward place to relax. It’s also you want to call it, Ka Roma, at the far end of the main street should be, and this place makes you feel cosmopolitan. This ploy seems to be work- the more ideal locations for such an insti- known as a hangout for the ‘intellectual’ consistently pleasant p Laugavegur, is a deli-type coffee house warm, both with its atmosphere and the ing, as the bar has become a hangout for tution in the city. It’s divided between two circles of Reykjavík, as well as some media and refreshments of w offering a variety of breads, soup and generosity of the coffee refills. older foreigners. The Viking ship sitting floors, although the distinction between types, the opposite of ‘intellectual’ in this happen to crave. They tempting cookies, cakes and other sweet on top of the building might also add to the ambiance on the top and bottom floors country. Music is almost never played selection of beers in R things. Their specials around lunch time the appeal. The crowd is very mixed, both has faded away in recent times. at Ölstofan – so you can actually have a mend the Cobra and S are always a bargain. in origin and age, and so is the music. conversation.

' Ráðhúskaffi . Kaffitár &+ Vegamót '( Café Cultura '+ Thorvaldsen '. Glaum City Hall Bankastræti 8 Vegamótastígur 4 Hverfisgata 18 Austurstræti 8 Tryggva Ráðhúskaffi, situated inside the Reykjavík This is the downtown store of one of the Vegamót (crossroads) has an appealing The trendy Café Cultura is located in the This place is fancy, and it knows it. Civil- Partly a sports bar, Gl City Hall, is a comfortable choice for the country’s finest coffee importers, and the lunch menu, they serve brunch during the same building as the Intercultural Centre, ian attire is looked down upon, so don’t popular venue for live view over Tjörnin (the pond). It’s espe- quality of the product is as excellent as weekends, and the kitchen is open until and has a distinct international flavour. expect to get in wearing hiking boots. DJs mostly it’s just a good cially convenient on Iceland’s so-called you would expect. While anything here is 22:00 daily. After that the beat goes on, A good-value menu, friendly service and play on Thursdays, Fridays and Saturdays. and party. They can ho ‘window weather’ days – the days that are good, the speciality coffee drinks are truly and you can check the end results in pho- settings that allow you to either sit down Arrive before 12 if you want to avoid the ings before midnight o only beautiful if you stay indoors. Coffee, remarkable: our favourite, the Azteca, an tos published the day after on their web- and carry on discussions, or dance the queue. you would be hard pre light snacks, art exhibitions, Internet ac- espresso drink with lime and Tabasco. site www.vegamot.is. If you like Oliver, try night away. deal on a keg party tha cess, a topographic model of Iceland and Vegamót and vice versa. municipal politics: all conveniently under the same roof.

( Grái Kötturinn &% Segafredo &, B5 Hverfisgata 16a By Lækjartorg Bankastræti 5 Belly’s Grái Kötturinn (the grey cat) is a cosy Italian coffee chain Segafredo seems to be B5 is a bistro with a Scandinavian focus on 41 place that’s especially popular during the doing brisk business by Lækjartorg, with the menu. Don’t be fooled by the impres- SPOTthis morning hours. Their breakfast is legend- locals and tourists alike flocking to sip sive collection of design classics that you Hafnar ary, but they tend not to be open later in their espressos at the conveniently placed see in the window when passing by – it’s 45 the day. A great place to nurse a hangover, tables outside. The staff are expert baristi, neither cold nor overly expensive, but or just to start the workday. and, even though Iceland is proud of its rather a cosy place with friendly service. Austur coffee, nobody quite tops the Segafredo 39 latte. 26

BARS 'N' BISTROS ) Kaffi Hljómalind && &- Rósenberg Laugavegur 21 Sólon Lækjargata 2 Despite hosting the occasional rock con- Bankastræti 7a Perhaps the closest thing to a jazz club in cert, Kaffi Hljómalind is a peaceful café Sólon is a nightclub on Friday and Sat- town, here old instruments line the walls. with perfect windows for people watching urday nights, but during the daytime it’s People go there for conversation and to and a lot of daylight. It’s run by a non- a café/bistro. On weeknights they’re a listen to music rather than dance. The profit organisation and only serves organic restaurant with a decent menu as well, and place tends to have jazz- or blues-type Belly’s is not a particularly trendy, or clean, of sports; the arm-wrestling machine is & fair-trade products. It’s strictly a non- an art exhibition on the walls to finish the music, and is developing a bluegrass scene. establishment, but it offers some of the best fun, too. The cheap beer alone could make smoking establishment. package. beer prices in town along with a welcoming Belly’s the underpaid Grapevine staff’s atmosphere and some rather interest- locale of choice, but it also has a decent ing patrons. A multitude of televisions music selection. mounted on its walls helps its visitors keep in touch with what’s going on in the world Hafnarstræti 18a, 101 Reykjavík

38 * Mokka &' Litli Ljóti &. Grand Rokk 47 32 Skólavörðustígur 3a Andarunginn Smiðjustígur 6 Kaffi Mokka is one of the oldest cafés Lækjargata 6b As the Viking-style garden and logo accu- in Reykjavík, dating back to the 1950s. Known for its all you can eat fish buffet, rately signal, this hardcore chess hangout 31 Famous for their dark, smoky atmosphere, this restaurant/guesthouse is also a fine is no place for the weak. Yes, chess bars are 37 29 loyal clientele and some of the best waffles place to sit down and relax with a latté or that tough in Iceland. Even if the down- 27 in town. some beer when suffering from a case of stairs atmosphere can feel a bit ominous 15 severe hipster-burn. at times, it’s one of the best venues for live music in town. If you speak Icelandic you Austurstræti can also take part in the pub quiz on Fri- days at 17:30. Participation is free and the Bankastræti Ingólf winner walks away with a case of beer! 40 12 2 36 Lækjargata Skóla + Ömmukaffi &( Kaffibarinn '% Bar 11 43 Austurstræti Bergstaðastræti 1 Laugavegur 11 Tjarnargata The name literally means “grandma’s cof- Kaffibarinn has a reputation as a hangout While the place is only open on the fee shop,” but here you can find people for artists and others who think they are weekends, Bar 11 is a popular rock bar Þingholtsstræti of all ages and all nationalities. It has a hip. Friday and Saturday nights serve as on Laugavegur and one of the main late- Bergstaðastræti very friendly, down-to-earth feel to it. the weekly peaks of claustrophobia, while night party venues in town. You’ll feel the Affordable prices on coffee, cakes and the weekdays and afternoons can be comfort- floor jumping every Friday and Saturday, Óðinsgata lunch menu. Try their speciality, the South able, if banal. and it’s neither you nor an earthquake. African latte. Live concerts and a nice foosball table upstairs.

, Babalú &) Sirkus '& Hressingarskálinn ') Prikið ', Kaffi Amsterdam (% Dillo Skólavörðustígur 22a Klapparstígur 30 Austurstræti 20 Bankastræti 12 Hafnarstræti 5 Laugav One of the youngest coffeehouses in Of absolutely no relation to the trashy The celebrated site of one of the more Prikið has changed noticeably in char- Kaffi Amsterdam is a cosy tavern located Legendary Icelandic r Reykjavík is also the homiest. Almost like culture guide, or trashy TV station that famous coffeehouses in Iceland, this bar/ acter in recent years, as it used to be an in the centre of Reykjavik. Known mostly known to DJ at this pl a living room away from home, Babalú stole its name, Sirkus is worshipped like café/bistro brings a European flair to the old-fashioned and traditional downtown for its rambling late-hour drinking crowd, time, and Þröstur from keeps it simple, quiet and cosy with coffee few other locales in Iceland. Elements of city. That is until about 11, when things coffeehouse. Somehow the younger crowd Amsterdam recently established itself as a tended the bar. You ca and the occasional crêpe. the odd and alternative cultural institu- get to rockin’, and you can see the true caught on and transformed the place to its fresh new venue for the city’s music talent. antee this place will be tion include an upstairs that looks and character of Reykjavík. present form: a diner during the day and you walk in on a Frida smells like a bus, a garden, a flea market a rowdy nightclub on weekends. You can and a queue on weekend nights that looks also borrow board games there, such as never-ending. backgammon or chess, and it is a popular breakfast spot early in the morning. RESTAURANTS MUSEUMS rennslan (& () Argentína (, Tapas )) Bæjarins Bestu ræti 9 Barónsstígur 11a Vesturgata 3b Tryggvagata Krua Thai ÌgW¨_VghV[c nt, bar – whatever Tryggvagata 14 Perennial favourite, Argentína is a fine Those with a bit of money and time on A veritable institution in central Reykja- ÌgW¨g affibrennslan is a dining steak house. For whale-etarians, their hands would do well to spend an vík, and probably the most consistently lll#a^hiVhV[cgZn`_Vk^`jg#^h This authentic Thai restaurant is one of place to go for snacks you can also sample the local Minke, or evening or two at Tapas, having course successful business the city has seen, the better bargains in town. We challenge whatever variety you excellent fish. This restaurant has main- after course of wonderful miniature dishes Bæjarins Bestu is actually just a simple I]Z8jaijgZ=djhZ you to find a better meal for the same y also have the largest tained its reputation with three things: served to them. Oddly, it’s also a great hot dog stand. Their menu consists of hot =kZg[^h\ViV&* price anywhere else. They have their menu Reykjavík. We recom- perfect cuts of meat, excellent service, and place to get tasty and affordable lobster. dogs and Coke – and nothing else. You lll#i]_dYbZcc^c\#^h outside with numbered colour images. Just Staroprammen.  an excellent wine list. If you don’t feel like getting up right away don’t have to be a Buddhist to ask them to say the number and eat the food. afterwards, there’s also a lounge. make you one with everything. GZn`_Vk†`:aZXig^XVaBjhZjb GZ[hiŽÂkVgkZ\jg lll#gV[]Z^bVg#^h

mbar (' Tveir Fiskar (* Vín og Skel (- Sægreifinn )* Subway agata 20 Geirsgata 9 Laugavegur 55 Geirsgata Austurstræti laumbar is also a Located right by the harbour, Tveir Fiskar If you like fresh seafood and are in the Places recommended for their local touch You know exactly what you get when you ICELANDIC bands and DJs, but boasts some of the freshest fish in town mood for something a little different, this tend to instantly loses any element of the walk into a Subway restaurant, and their FISH BUFFET place to get drunk – they prefer it to still be moving when cosy but ambitious restaurant just might exotic, but Sægreifinn (The Sea Baron) is sub sandwiches are always made from ost private gather- they buy it. Their menu also dares to be fit the bill. Shellfish, salmon, squid, lobster an exception. It’s a combination of a fish fresh ingredients – right in front of your on weekdays, and different, and this just might be your only and other creatures of the deep predomi- store and a... well, not exactly a restaurant eyes. Reasonably priced and far healthier essed to get a better chance to sample the debatable delights of nate the menu here. There is no smoking but a place that serves prepared food, than most alternatives – provided you an here. raw dolphin.  in the restaurant, but if you want to have a located in a harbour warehouse. Smell of show some restraint when you order. go at sitting outside there are fleece blan- fish, the view over the harbour, an old man ALL YOU CAN EAT... kets provided. that looks exactly like an Icelandic fisher- man should. What’s not to love? ...EVERY NIGHT

(. Shalimar )+ Nonnabiti DOWNTOWN REYKJAVIK Austurstræti 4 Hafnarstræti 11 THE UGLY Prides itself on being the northernmost Almost certainly the best junk food in the DUCKLING Indian/Pakistani restaurant in the world. Greater Reykjavík area, and extremely 44 Their cooks know exactly what they are popular with drunken youths on week- GUESTHOUSE rstræti 33 doing with the spices and as a result we ends. This place has none of that Subway have given them two glowing reviews and commitment to healthy living, and they Lækjargata 6B • 101 Reykjavík • Tel. 552 9815 46 42 ur a ‘Bezt í Heimi’ recommendation in the probably contribute significantly to the stræti 10 past. You can still see the latter article ever-increasing “size” of the nation. They 6 hanging in their window – and we stand also serve burgers and sandwiches, and 6 by it. have lunchtime offers. 21 22 28 18 49 Bankastræ17 43 Ingólfsstræti 11 ti 3 23 )% Við tjörnina ), Hamborgarabúlla Lækjargata 9 Templarasund 3 24 Tómasar (Búllan) 20 19 Hverfisgata Geirsgata 1 Laugavegur If you’re looking for high-quality food in a 14 unique but cosy setting it doesn’t get much 5 better than Við Tjörnina (literally, By the Tómas originally popularised the ham- Pond). They’re known for their traditional burger in Iceland when he opened his Skólavörðustígur13 famous Tommaborgarar shop. A couple of 16 8 living room décor and innovative fish dishes made from a variety of fresh catch- decades and business ventures later he has 25 gone back to the basics and now has one 48 es. The ambiance is something you have to experience to truly appreciate. of the most popular fast food restaurants downtown – affectionately known as Búl- Klapparstígur 30 lan (the joint).

FAST FOOD )& )- First Vegetarian American Style (Á næstu grösum) Tryggvagata 26 Laugavegur 20b

Famous for their burgers and fries, One of the first places in Reykjavík to American Style actually serves a variety of specialise in vegetarian and vegan dishes. American-influenced dishes with a strong Despite having changed owners a couple local flavour. You get the feeling that you of years back, the quality has remained lfsstræti are expected to eat a great deal, so loosen consistent and you almost get the feeling your belt a bit before you dig in. that the place is being run on sheer prin- ciple as much as anything else. Hverfisgata Laugav ólavörðustígur egur 35 4 )' Pizza King ). Kebabhúsið 34 Hafnarstræti 18 Lækjargata 2 Most people get to know Pizza King after Some of the best fish and chips in town 7 a late-night drinking session leaves them can be found at Kebabhúsið, and they ob- tired and hungry downtown, and it truly viously have a selection of kebabs as well. Frakkastígur is a lifesaver in those situations. The dif- The falafel comes recommended, despite ference between Pizza King and some less being a relatively unappreciated menu 1 savoury fast food options downtown is item in Iceland, and the beef and lamb that you would be happy to go back to eat pitas are quite good as well. there while sober, and their special lunch -“>ÊV >À“ˆ˜}Ê Barónsstígur offers make that a very attractive option. Ãi>vœœ`ÊÀiÃÌ>ÕÀ>˜ÌÊ Ü ˆV ʜvviÀÃÊÌ iÊLiÃÌÊ ˆ˜Êvœœ`Ê>˜`Ê܈˜i° on (( Hornið (+ Tjarnarbakkinn )( Bernhöftsbakarí *% Vitabar vegur 30 Hafnarstræti 15 Vonarstræti 3 Bergstaðastræti 13 Bergþórugata 21 rockers have been Means “the corner” and the place lives up Tjarnarbakkinn is right above the Iðnó The oldest bakery in Reykjavík, founded Actually a bar, but best known for its ham- lace from time to to its name by… well, being on a corner. theatre, so it’s an ideal place to go before in 1834. If you are particular about your burgers. A burger with fries for 500 is one m Mínus has even This is actually the oldest Italian restau- shows, or during if you prefer a more quiet bread this is about the best place in cen- of the best meal deals in town, but special an pretty much guar- rant in town, celebrating its 27th year, and atmosphere. If you sit by the window tral Reykjavík to stock up on a variety mention must go to the Forget-Me-Not e rocking any time it always seems to be consistently popular. you get nice view of the pond, and in the of freshly baked loaves – they also do a blue cheese and garlic extravaganza. ay or Saturday night.  Excellent quality pizza, pasta and salads – summers you can enjoy your meal outside. particularly moist and juicy version of the all priced affordably. The lamb comes especially recommended; ever popular vínarbrauð pastries. You can  it’s one of those rare traditional Icelandic even call ahead and have your favourite /i“«>À>Ã՘`ÊÎ]£ä£Ê,iގ>ۈŽ dishes that aren’t an acquired taste. items reserved, if you’re afraid someone /i\Êxx£ÊnÈÈÈ else might beat you to that last snúður or ‡“>ˆ\Êۈ`̍œÀ˜ˆ˜>Jȓ˜iÌ°ˆÃ kleina.

INDIAN - PAKISTANI CUISINE Discover THE ORIGINAL EASTERN TA STE IN THE WEST AUSTURSTRÆTI 4, Te l : 551 0292 www.shalimar.is G69>D IK

G{h& GZhXjZ BZ get more complex, some new twists and power in Providence’s underworld, Caffee Government radio station often featur- Focusing on a group of New York City sub-plots slap you right in the face, with a is implicated in his brother’s corruption, ing talk shows, radio soap operas, and firemen, this dark comedy show becomes good dash of humour of course. All in all, collusion and bribery while trying to fight traditional music. more twisted, brutal and chaotic with the characters can be quite likable although racism in the neighbourhood and be a good every single episode. When the ill-temper- nothing is sacred to them, not even family role model for his kids. It doesn’t help that G{h' ed Tommy Gavin (played by Denis Leary) ties or friendships. his lonely wife is cheating on him with the More progressive government radio sta- mailman. Nothing seems to work out, but tion, featuring a variety of music as well as is not lambasting some punks he tries to 7gdi]Zg]ddY of course Caffee never loses his cool. news discussion programmes. patch things up with his ex-wife, reconcile with his three children and drag survivors There’s no actual celebration or a slaugh- 7na\_Vc (98.9 FM) out of burning buildings. When Tommy’s tered calf when the lost son, Mike, returns I]ZHZkZci]=ZVkZcl^i]=Zbb^

I]ZJ#H#kh#?d]cAZccdc I]ZGdVYId:;ADG9 I:M6H8=6>CH6LB6HH68G:/ I=:L>8@:GB6C A German English-language production 76GCN6G9 I=:7:<>CC>C< Nicolas Cage plays a sheriff baffled by a based on Cornelia Funke’s fantasy novel. Animal Farm, as seen by today’s storytell- The origins of THE CHAINSAW neo-pagan community in this pointless Supposedly avoids the trappings of the ers. Probably. MASSACRE are explored in this shock- remake of the classic 1973 movie of the colonies’ family adventure movies. fest gorestravaganza. same name. 8=>A9G:CD;B:C LDGA9IG69:8:CI:G This Alfonso Cuarón adaptation of a P.D. I=:9:K>AL:6GHEG696 I=:L>A9 Oliver Stone is responsible for this non- James novel is set in 2027… where no one In which a naïve young country girl You know the score by now; CGI-based conspiracy theory take on the events of can have children! Supposedly manages to tackles an über-bitch magazine editor action comedy featuring some lovable September 11. Allegedly tasteful and be both apocalyptic and entertaining. played by Meryl Streep. It’s nice to have shiny animals, celebrity voice talent and moving. you back, Meryl. William Shatner. Probably very amusing. <6G;>:A9/6I6>AD;ILD@>I" Sambíóin Álfabakka, Sambíóin Kring- lunni, Háskólabíó, Nýja Bíó Akureyri, I>:H I=:6C Visit www.kvikmyndir.is for regularly Nýja Bíó Keflavík. Lovable cartoon cat Garfield frolics in Kevin Costner is back! This time, he’s updates on new films and showtimes. England. Some castles are involved. serving in the Coast Guard alongside a Smárabíó, Laugarásbíó, reckless young hothead played by Ashton Kutcher. GZ\cWd\^cc ={h`‹aVW†‹ AVj\Vg{hW†‹ ?68@6HH' Hverfisgata 54 Hagatorgi Laugarási Doing for culture in general what the JC>I:9.( This first of the 9/11 feature films at- 101 Reykjavík 107 Reykjavík 104 Reykjavík Spanish Inquisition did for Catholicism, Tel. 551-9000 Tel. 525-540 0 Tel. 565-0118 the Jackass crew churns ‘em out in this tempts to give a real-time account of the one. Give them your money, please. events on board United Flight 93, where passengers foiled the terrorist plot. Sam- HVbW†‹^c @g^c\ajW†‹ HVbW†‹^c6`jgZng^ bíóin Kringlunni. Álfabakka 8 Kringlunni 4-12 Ráðhústorgi BNHJE:G:M"<>GA;G>:C9 109 Reykjavík 103 Reykjavík 600 Akureyri Uma Thurman plays a cuckolded super- Tel. 575-890 0 Tel. 575-890 0 Tel. 461-4666 hero out for revenge on her former beau. NDJ!B:6C99JEG:: Sounds interesting enough. Smárabíó. Owen Wilson stars as a best man who Hb{gVW†‹ HZa[dhhW†‹ CÅ_V"7†‹ overstays his welcome at Matt Dillon and Smáralind Eyrarvegur 2 Hafnargata 33 Kate Hudson’s house. Laugarásbíó. 47:; I6AA69:<6C><=IH/I=:76A" 201 Kópavogur 800 Selfoss 230 Reykjanesbær A69D;G>8@N7D77N Tel. 564-0000 Tel. 482-3007 Tel. 421-1170 The Grapevine lists exhibitions from galler- www.gerduberg.is G:N@?6KÏ@6GIBJH:JB H>CHHDC Laugarnestangi 70 email at [email protected]. GZn`_Vk†`¶ÖgaVjch{ig^$GZn`_Vk†` Compiled by Virginia Zech H8JAEIJG:BJH:JB Tue.-Sun. 14-17 ¶;gdbVc6bWjh] Sigtún &%&<6AA:GN 6g^H^\kVaYVhdce]didZm]^W^i Open daily 10-16 EZgbVcZciZm]^W^i^dcd[i]Zldg`d[ Hverfisgata 18 Admission ticket is valid on the same day hXjaeidgH^\jg_‹cÓaV[hhdc C=¡Á for all three museums. Thu.-Sat. 14-17 and by appointment Laugavegur 23 www.101hotel.is/101hotel/101gallery/ www.listasafnreykjavikur.is E]did\gVe]n^ci]ZHigZZihd[9dlcidlc Thu.-Sun. 14-18 GZn`_Vk†` 08 Sep – 14 Oct =6;C6G=ÖH I]ZGZn`_Vk†`BjhZjbd[E]did\gVe]n HijYZcih[gdbi]ZhZXdcYnZVgd[i]Z Tryggvagata 17 ^hXZaZWgVi^c\^ih'*i]Vcc^kZghVgnl^i] ¸KZg`VbZcc$Ldg`Zgh¹ 6XVYZbn HeZhh^e]didZm]^W^i^dc Open daily 10-17 Ve]did\gVe]^Xadd`WVX`Vii]ZeVhi XZcijgnd[a^[Z^ci]ZXVe^iVa#I]ZhZgZi" 6JGJB >-<6AA:GN 10 Jun 2006 – 07 Jan 2007 gdheZXi^kZhVgZdcY^heaVn^cA¨`_Vgidg\! Klapparstígur 33 I]Z:gg‹8daaZXi^dc/G 333DJIH>9:G:N@?6KÏ@ www.i8.is Flókagata Open daily 10-17 HZnÂ^h[_ŽgÂjg/ 16 Sep – 13 Oct 14 Sept – 21 Oct 6gdc7Zg\bVccZm]^W^i^dc 7V`\gjccjg$7VX`\gdjcY 08 Apr – 03 Dec H@6;I;:AA I=::>C6G?ÓCHHDCBJH:JB =^aYjg7_VgcVY‹ii^g AZi»hAdd`Vi6gi/6hZg^Zhd[Zm]^W^i^dch www.skaftfell.is Eiriksgata ZheZX^VaanYZh^\cZY[dgX]^aYgZc >8:A6C9>8A67DJGJC>DC»H =V[cVg[_ŽgÂjg/ Tue.-Sun. 14-17 6GI<6AA:GN www.skulptur.is G:N@?6KÏ@ BJH:JB Freyjugata 41 Kistuhylur 4 =6;C6G7DG< Tue.-Sun. 13-17 EZgbVcZciZm]^W^i^dcd[i]Zldg`d[ www.arbaejarsafn.is Mon.-Sun. 11-17 Free Entrance hXjaeidg:^cVg?‹chhdc I=:G:N@?6KÏ@BJH:JBD; @Z[aVk†`/ @A>C<76C<<6AA:GN E=DIDXZaVcY^X;Vh]^dc'%%+ index.htm &)DXi¶%*Cdkº%+ 6`jgZng^: Permanent Exhibits 30 Sep – 19 Nov =gV[c]^aYjg6gcVgY‹ii^gCZlNdg` EDAH@6&.+."&.-."EdaVcYjcYZg 96AÏ<6AA:GÏ BZY^ZkVaBVcjhXg^eih0I]ZCVi^dcVa Vgi^hih BjhZjb"Vh^ilVh0I]ZA^WgVgnGddb Xdbbjc^hb Brekkugata 9 8]g^hC^ZYZci]Va =6AAG@?68=JG8= Mon.-Sat. 14-18 9L6G;<6AA:GN www.hallgrimskirkja.is Grundarstígur 21 28 Sept – 22 Nov <6AA:GÏ Opening Hours Vary Á6G<6AA:GN X]jgX]»hXdchZXgVi^dc'+DXidWZg Wed.-Fri. 14-18 Fri.-Sat. 13-18 Bæjarháls 1 &.-+l^i]Zm]^W^i^dcd[YdXjbZcihVcY Mon.-Fri. 8:30-16 Sat.-Sun. 14- 17 e]didh[gdbi]ZX]jgX]»hXdchigjXi^dc www.or.is/Forsida/Gallery100 Free Entrance 6@JG:NG>6GIBJH:JB eZg^dY&.)*"&.-+VcY[gdbi]ZXdchZ" safn.is/english/index.html Kaupvangsstræti 12 <6AA:GÏ6C>B6 XgVi^dcXZgZbdcn^ihZa[# Tue.-Sun. 12-17 Ingólfsstræti 8 16 Sept – 05 Nov ‘06 listasafn.akureyri.is Tues.-Sat. 13-17 A>K>C<6GIBJH:JB I^ad7Vjb\~giZaBVgi^c@dWZ Laugavegur 26 http://www.animagalleri.is/ 26 Aug – 22 Oct ‘06 Wed., Fri.-Sun. 13-17 >cDXidWZgHV[cl^aaWZegZhZci^c\V Visual Arts Thu. 13-22 15 Sept – 07 Oct eZg[dgbVcXZVgihZg^ZhVheVgid[i]Z 6c:m]^W^i^dcd[i]Zldg`hd[>XZaVcY^X >V^cH]VgeZ www.nylo.is/ HZfjZcXZh6gi;Zhi^kVa#7Zh^YZhHV[c! CVi^dcVaK^hjVa6gih6lVgYCdb^cZZh dkZg(%KZcjZhVgdjcYGZn`_Vk^`l^aa 03 Oct – 04 Nov I=:C6I>DC6A<6AA:GN WZji^a^oZY[dgZm]^W^i^dcd[i]ZZkZci»h =_Žgijg=_VgiVghdc Fríkirkjuvegur eZg[dgbVcXZVgie^ZXZh#JeYViZYhX]ZY" Tue.-Sun. 11-17 jaZhVcYa^hi^c\hXVcWZ[djcYdca^cZVi <6AA:GN;DA9 Free Entrance lll#hZfjZcXZh#^h listasafn.is Rauðarárstígur 14-16 www.gljufrasteinn.is Mon.-Fri. 10-18 Sat. 11-16 I=:C6I>DC6ABJH:JB Suðurgata 41 Sun. 14-16 Open daily 10-17 www.myndlist.is natmus.is/English <6AA:GÏH¡K6GH@6GAH 30 Sep – 26 Nov Bankastræti 7 Ó`jcch_‹cVg]dgc$Jc`cdlceZgheZX" www.saevarkarl.is i^kZBncY^gca†[^b†cj$>bV\Zh[gdb Mon.-Fri. 10-18 Va^[Z Sat. 10-16 Temporary Exhibitions: Current exhibition: GjYda[A#GZ^iZg E]did\gVe]n[gdb>XZaVcY!&.(- >ck^h^WaZldbZc^c>XZaVcY^XVgi <6AA:GNIJGE:CI>C: 6gX]VZdad\^XVagZhZVgX]VcY>XZaVcY»h Ingólfsstræti 5 cZlk^Zld[]^hidgn Tue.-Fri. 12-18 Sat. 11-16 Permanent Exhibitions: www.turpentine.is I]ZBV`^c\d[VCVi^dc <:A<6AA:GÏ I=:CDG9>8=DJH: Hverfisgata 37 Sturlugata 5 Mon.-Fri. 10-19 Tue.-Sun. 12-17 Sat. 10-17 www.nordice.is/english

01 Aug - ? C¡HI>76G 6gdc7Zg\bVc Ingólfsstræti 1a <:GÁJ7:G<8JAIJG6A8:C" GZ\jaVgZm]^W^i^dchWnadXVaVgi^hih IG: G:N@?6KÏ@-,& $"'/I=: Gerðuberg 3-5 H:IIA:B:CI:M=>7>I>DC Mon.-Thu. 11-17 @@@0;*9.?27.2< Wed. 11-21 Aðalstræti 16 /@B Open daily 10-17 Thur.-Fri. 11-17 NEWS | BACK ISSUES | PODCASTS | LISTINGS | REVIEWS Sun-Sat. 13-16 O`b &-!LZYcZhYVn";g^YVn&%"'%!HVijgYVn"HjcYVn&'"'% I]Z>XZaVcY9VcXZ8dbeVcn7dg\VgaZ^`]h^Â!A^hiVWgVji(BdcYV Jóhannsson. Friðgeir Jóhann and nsson Jóhan- byValdimar composed is music The Company. Dance Iceland atthe dancers both Rúnarsdóttir, Valgerður and Halldórsdóttir of Aðalheiður consisting Vaðall, team choreography bythe Nothing) About (Much sig um Hver is piece second The 5-14. October Iceland, in Days Music of Nordic apart is music The premiere. the at music the perform will who Ratkje, Maja singer/songwriter Nordic and Másson by Áskell composed is music The byÓlöf Ingólfsdóttir. Arrived) Have (We komin erum Við is piece first The choreographers. byIcelandic created were pieces Both 12. October pieces, dance original new two premiere will Company Dance Iceland The >XZaVcY9VcXZ8dbeVcn ;dgbdgZ^c[dk^h^i/lll#hVajg^cc#^h# screened. be will novel, onhis based film, Oscar-winning the which after 22, onOctober Patient) atSalurinn English of The (author Ondaatje Michael writer with arendezvous with concludes festival The literature. and films on is emphasis Library, Kópavogur atthe while Canada in culture pioneer and enous onindig- seminars as well as acts music of live aselection house will Hall Concert Salurinn while Gallery Art Kópavogur in open will exhibitions Three Canada. in artists contemporary as well as culture Inuit the tohighlight aims festival the art indigenous onCanadian focus aspecial 14-22. With October from Kópavogur in ues ven- atvarious place take will concerts and films seminars, with arts visual and music acting, dance, in culture aboriginal modern mixing Festival Culture A Canadian >cY^\Zcdjh8jaijgZ[gdb8VcVYV n"IjZhYVn&%" &.!HVijgYVn"HjcYVn&("&, GZn`_Vk†`BjhZjbd[E]did\gVe]nIgn\\kV\ViV&*!+i][addgBdc 22nd. November through runs exhibit The inmate. onetoan which and toastudent belongs room which guess viewers so categories into aren’t sorted photos The different. quite is inside phere atmos- the although ways, many in other each resemble which dormitories, student at same todothe idea the got country, the around cells prison inside photographs shooting been had who Golli, of Photography. Museum ShotatReykjavík The in aphotoexhibition opened recently Golli, as known better Þorbjörnsson, Kjartan Gddbh[dg>begdkZbZci YVn&("&+ GZn`_Vk†`8jaijgVa8ZcigZXZaVcY HVijgYVn"Hjc" YVn";g^YVn&%" reviews 29 >I8G

Tómas R. Einarsson Brain Police Toggi Romm Tomm Tomm Beyond the Wasteland Puppy Worth four beers. Worth three beers. Worth two beers.

Bassist Tómas R. Einarsson playing and great composi- Veteran rockers Brain Police is their monotonous sound Toggi has spent the last son. But he has a knack for is an institution in the small tions. DJ Gísli Galdur of return with their fourth – it’s easy to spot their songs three years honing his début writing good pop tunes and Icelandic jazz world. He is Trabant fame adds some studio album, sporting a on the radio – but it’s harder album and it shows. The the lyrics have the neces- known for excellent bass turntable magic on a few new guitarist, Búi Bendtsen. than hell to pinpoint which first single, Heart in Line, is sary ingredients of sadness, playing on numerous albums tunes, thereby modernising The result is more guitar song it is or from what al- a polished melancholy acous- sorrow and regret. Toggi’s with a handful of bands. Ap- the conventional salsa feel, heavy than past albums bum. Beyond the Wasteland tic pop tune – complete with voice is perfectly suited for parently he bought his first especially on the wicked track without losing their distinc- shows improvement in that a full-blown string chorus. these songs and the produc- bass with money earned on Eineygði Kötturinn (One- tive stoner-rock sound. The department. Evidently, Brain These 12 songs are well- tion – including the pretty an oil rig in the North Atlan- Eyed Cat). This reviewer band is as tight as Baden- Police are developing their written, well-executed and booklet – is excellent. It’s tic. Now that’s jazz. Romm admits to not being much Powell’s Boy Scout knots sound. So if you’re not anal well... not that memorable. just that all this feels so Tomm Tomm is his third for hot salsa dancing but this – especially the connection about musicians constantly It’s a great modern mystery harmless somehow. I’m sure album with Cuban/Latin jazz album certainly calls for some between drummer Jónbi coming up with new ideas how Coldplay have become a fair number of songs will and includes 14 musicians of that. An excellent album and bass player Höddi. Seen (hell, AC/DC have made the world’s biggest band become big radio hits and a from Iceland and Cuba. It is for hot summer nights and live Brain Police are a tough over 15 great albums that all but it’s not a great mystery fair number of lonely people filled to the brim with a cool Mojitos. PH act to follow and Beyond sound pretty much the same) where Toggi gets his inspira- will sing along – but that’s as summer feeling, excellent the Wasteland captures and just want a good, solid, tion from – although Travis far as it will go. PH that well. So a great album? rock album then Brain Police would be a better compari- Almost, but not quite. The has your medicine. PH problem with Brain Police

Fighting Shit Donni And Clout Forgotten Daughters, Gestir Monkey Paw Abandoned Sons Burtur Frá Toftunum Worthless. Worth three 1/2 beers. Worth two beers.

Ah yes, improv music: Why? ual songs in the liner notes, Fighting Shit’s second interest. The whole thing is This Faroese melodrama Sólini and Døgg’s indulgent Why the fuck? This is stupid like anyone would ever give a full-lengther is a tasty, if rounded up nicely with its doesn’t really focus on its croon. Too bad the strings and retarded jam music for shit. This entire CD is about somewhat shallow chunk finely crafted closer, I Am strengths enough to create and some of the guitar work stupid and retarded people, as enjoyable as waking up to of thrashcore that speeds The Quiet End, an epic- the rain-drenched mental tend to get a little bit too and if that isn’t bad enough, the sound of your legs being through its half-hour with length battle between metal murk it strives for, but there jazzy and plain, condensing they’ve taken the liberty of separated from your torso vigorous power, stopping chord progressions and punk are slices of brilliance here, the album’s mysterious fog writing all kinds of cute little with a rusty hatchet. SE just long enough in the quiet riffs and beats. SE such as the cavernous, smog- into a pool of stagnant water. anecdotes and comments on areas to keep one from losing gy waft of Í Skuggum Av SE the recording of the individ-

ceg^hdc!ndjYZVa^cX^\VgZiiZh#>c>XZaVcY!ndjYZVa^cWZZgh#LZYdc»iXdcYdcZi]^h!lZ_jhiVXXZei^iVh[VXi#DcZWZZg2*%% >H@Vii]ZhZZYnWVghlZ[gZfjZci#I]VibZVchVbV^chigZVbgZaZVhZXdhihjdid'*%%>H@###dg)%#NZhi]VibjX]#I]Vi»h l]nlZYdi]ZWZZgi]^c\#GZk^ZlZYWnE{aa=^abVghhdcVcYH^cYg^:aYdc Between ISK 1000 Between ISK 2500 30 $ Under ISK 1000 $ $ and ISK 2500 $ $ $ and ISK 4000 $ $ $ $ Over ISK 4000 DINING, EATING

& GRUBBING By Haukur Magnússon and Steinunn Jakobsdóttir Photos by Skari

panion and I arrived on a Thursday evening. with an interesting course, thinly sliced tuna VITABAR Busy in the sense that almost every table CARUSO with tomatoes and mozzarella (1.490). The Bergþórugötu 21, 101 Reykjavík was occupied. Even the counter contained Þingholtsstræti 1, 101 Reykjavík carpaccio was simply put impeccable. The Tel: 551-7200 customers gulping down a big one. Luckily Tel. 562-7335 tuna dish tasted good and was inventively we got a table and with no real need to look presented. $ at the menu we both ordered the specialty, $ $ The extravagant blend of veal and the Gleym-mér-ey burger or Forget-Me-Not lobster-tails (4,390) was our main course, burger, consisting of a 200 grams hamburger along with spaghetti Calabrese (1,790). Our On the corner of Vitastígur and Bergþóru- covered in blue cheese and garlic sauce. Along Caruso has long been of the establishments otherwise competent waiter neglected to ask gata stands the legendary local bar Vitabar, with a small portion of French fries (which one is bound to notice while strolling down for our preferred cookng of the veal, so the a Reykjavík burger fan´s favorite. This is the should be quite enough for a normal eater) and Bankastræti any given night. Its trademark of too-well-for-our-tastes state it arrived in was place most locals will point out to tourists a soda, the meal only put us back 1.050 ISK. sorts is an inviting row of candle-lit windows, a foreseeable disappointment. The course was looking for a quick hamburger meal, the way I have to give compliments to the service, where one can usually observe a plethora satisfying and fine tasting however, although hamburgers should be presented, that is, those which was excellent. We only waited a couple of seemingly satisfied patrons engaged in the lobster-tails didn’t serve any real purpose who are fed up with multinational chains like of minutes for our fresh-from-the-grill burg- conversation while gorging on the restaurant’s apart from adding an air of luxury to the meal. McDonald’s and Burger King, who by the ers to arrive at the table and the hearty dish version of Italian food. Also extravagant was the size of the veal-cut: way can’t be found in the city centre. Vitabar was just as expected. Made the old-fashioned The restaurant Caruso, then, has an allure fans of meat will not be let down by it. actually is a pub and a popular hangout spot way, the burger is extremely flavourfull. The when seen from the street, so my companion The Calabrese was an altogether subtler for a crowd of thirsty middle-aged regulars, beef itself perfectly grilled and with the right and I were excited to have the chance to affair. Plentiful and modestly presented, but if you don’t mind the smoke or the occa- amount of sauce, the burger was just as greasy experience it first hand. We were not let the course carried the pleasant taste of its sional drunkenness the burgers are simply the as it should be. As the sauce dripped down our down. The first thing one notices when fresh ingredients followed by a surprisingly juiciest you’ll get in Reykjavík, and the price chins, we were once again reminded that the entering Caruso is that it’s every bit as cosy as hot aftertaste. The spaghetti was boiled to to pay is fairly cheap as well. Gleym-mér-ei burger is the ultimate, perched their window-display indicates. A warmly lit, perfection, too, something often lacking in When entering Vitabar, one’s first on top of the hamburger kingdom. comfortable establishment, the undertones of Iceland’s Italian restaurants. thought will probably not be that you just set For those who don’t like the blue-cheese an Emiliana Torrini album quietly playing in We enjoyed our desserts in a pleasant foot into one of downtown’s more popular fast taste there’s always a special offer on a cheese- the background proved a perfect companion to Cognac lounge reminiscent of a larger version food restaurants. The place is not very big and burger with fries for 650 ISK. Also worth the relaxing dining experience we enjoyed. of some grandmother’s living room. While the interior is rather basic. A couple of tables mentioning is the beef steak, which comes Caruso’s menu is spun out of Italian the homemade coconut ice cream ‘Caruso’ are aligned against the walls, the lighting is with fries, salad, béarnaise sauce and a large culinary traditions, albeit with a twist; few (1,150) was a standard affair, it managed to rather murky and the establishment hasn’t beer for a laughable 1,700 ISK. of the courses are traditionally Italian in the arouse our stomachs out of the slumber the been renovated for years, but all that helps in In my opinion, few things in life are better strictest sense. While waiting to order, we heavy meal had put them in and thus served creating a cosy feeling where you just want to than a bite at Vitabar, especially if you’re on a munched on fresh baguettes smeared with a its purpose well. However, our order of liquid take it easy, as if right at home. A big bonus tight budget. If you’re aching for a burger and garlic-style sauce that accompanied (we were chocolate cake with ice cream (1,290) was a is the selection of newspapers and magazines beer in a chilled-out atmosphere or just need also provided with consumer size packages disappointment: although it had a pleasant that fill one corner of the counter for custom- to grab a quick meal on the way home from of smjör – an unfortunate style breaker). taste, it simply wasn’t liquid – causing it to ers to browse while waiting for a meal. work, Vitabar comes highly recommended. SJ For starters, we decided to sample carpaccio remind us more of a bakery-style ‘skúffukaka’. The place was quite busy when my com- with fresh parmigiano (1,550 ISK) along HM we recommend ¸DcZd[:jgdeZ»h [^cZhiZchZbWaZh#¹ - BBC Music Magazine jeXdb^c\XdcXZgih SATURDAY, OCTOBER 14TH @ 5:00 PM SATURDAY, OCTOBER 28TH @ 5:00 PM ZYYV^ [‹hiWg¨ÂjgbVaZX]d^g Conductor ::: Hermann Bäumer ".%i]Vcc^kZghVgn Soloists ::: Gunnar Guðbjörnsson, Conductor ::: Árni Harðarson Bjarni Thor Kristinsson Male Choir of Fóstbræður Choir ::: Schola Cantorum Various songs (arr. Jón Þórarinsson) Choirmaster ::: Hörður Áskelsson Gustav Holst ::: Six choral folk songs Jón Leifs ::: Edda I Samuel Barber ::: A stopwatch and an ordnance map SATURDAY, OCTOBER 21TH @ 3:00 PM bjh^XhX]ddad[bdh[ZaahW¨g TUESDAY, OCTOBER 31ST @ 7:30PM ")%i]Vcc^kZghVgn WZZi]dkZc$WgV]bh^ Conductor ::: Kurt Kopecky Conductor ::: Rumon Gamba Choirs and brass band of Mosfellsbær Soloist ::: Olli Mustonen Hector Berlioz ::: Roman Carnival Beethoven ::: Piano Concerto no. 1 Pjotr Tchaikovsky ::: 1812 Overture Beethoven ::: Piano Concerto no. 2 Páll P. Pálsson ::: Arrangements for Choir Brahms ::: Symphony no. 3 and Orchestra XdcXZgi^cbdh[ZaahW¨g THURSDAY, NOVEMBER 2ND @ 7:30PM WZZi]dkZc$WgV]bh^^ Conductor ::: Rumon Gamba Soloist ::: Víkingur Ólafsson Beethoven ::: Piano Concerto no. 3 Brahms ::: Symphony no. 4 i^X`ZihhdaYVilll#h^c[dc^V#^hdgiZa#*)*'*%%# All concerts take place in Háskólabíó unless otherwise noted.

Coffee for the Coffee Enthusiast

BY SVEINN BIRKIR BJÖRNSSON

The company Kaffitár (i.e. Coffeetear – reflecting the The selection of beverages is plentiful. My per- Icelandic habit of asking for ‘a tear’ of coffee) was estab- sonal favourite is the Americano, a delicious espresso lished in 1990 by coffee lover Aðalheiður Héðinsdóttir. saturated with a little hot water. For those with a sweet Her goal was to educate her countrymen on the finer tooth, a hot cup of cocoa is always enjoyable. A large se- aspects of coffee drinking. The company imports the lection of quality tea from all four corners of the world is Fíton/SÍA finest coffee available, directly from farmers around the also available. I must admit that I have a guilty pleasure [a\gdje^hi]ZbV^chedchdgd[ world. Héðinsdóttir is one of the company’s two coffee for the chai latte, a milk-based tea drink, flavoured with i]Z^XZaVcYhnbe]dcndgX]ZhigV samplers and travels the world to find the best available Indian chai mix and a lot of syrup. raw materials as well as to establish a professional rela- Of course, if you are hungry for something more tionship with the farmers themselves in places such as substantial than liquid, a selection of scones, bagels and Kenya, Nicaragua and Colombia. The coffee is selected other goods are available. The biscotti comes highly after careful scrutiny, where the coffee’s aroma, taste recommended. and body are judged and only the best is deemed good If lounging around in coffeehouses, leading the enough. The coffee itself is processed in Iceland under bohemian life is not your cup of tea (pun intended), it the company’s strict quality standards. is also possible to buy ground coffee or coffee beans by After establishing a viable import business, weight and enjoy your cup at home, or perhaps, put it in Héðinsdóttir decided to branch out, starting a chain of a thermos and enjoy it out in the wilderness. Nothing coffeehouses around Reykjavík. One of these happens compares to a hot of cup coffee out in the nature. to be my favourite coffee shop in town. The Kaffitár But good coffee is not produced by the raw material shop located in the National Museum of Iceland. Sitting alone. At Kaffitár it is possible to stock up on all the squarely on the University of Iceland campus, Kaffitár is available equipment to produce and enjoy both coffee a favourite among university students, offering a product and tea, be it coffee grinders, cups, kettles or French far superior than the university cafeteria. press coffee makers. The newly renovated museum building offers You could really say that it is the one-stop coffee the perfect surroundings to enjoy a tasty cup of your shop. favourite beverage. The museum’s book shop offers the appropriate mental stimulation, while the quiet museum Kaffitár atmosphere allows for easy flowing conversation. A Suðurgata 41, 101 Reykjavík large window offers a view over the university book- Tel. +354 551 7710 store and a small pond outside that brings an element of Opening hours: Tuesday-Friday from 8-17; tranquillity to the place. Weekends: 11-17 COME TO THE NORTHERNMOST INDIAN-PAKISTANI CUISINE AND TRY ONE OF THE MOST SAUCY, SNAZZY, & SPICY CURRIES IN ICELAND.

INDIAN INDIAN LUNCH DINNER 990.- 1190.-

INDIAN - PAKISTANI CUISINE

AUSTURSTRÆTI 4, Tel. 551 0292 www.shalimar.is 32 reviews Reykjavík International Film Festival The Grapevine goes to the movies

BY ÁSGEIR H INGÓLFSSON

hellish environments where redemption in and intriguing exit of any athlete in living Turtles Can Fly the next life seems much further away than memory. The highs, lows and subtexts of the supposed paradise of the afterlife? his German adventure would have made Turtles Can Fly, and so can Kurdish cinema. Shakespeare proud. Sadly, this is not a film Director Ghobadi’s stated intent is to help of those events but of a forgotten league breed a true Kurdish culture of cinema and Lights in the Dusk game against Villarreal last year. That is the just with this one film he puts many more filmmaker’s quest though, to capture the established film cultures to shame. The film Aki Kaurismäki is probably the one Finn- ordinary day – as exemplified with footage is a stunningly beautiful meditation on child- ish director you’ve heard of. His work has from events around the globe that same day. hood in the midst of a never-ending war. Our shown us the Finns as a nation of reserved The concept, to follow just one player but main protagonist is Soran, always nicknamed people who talk little and move their other not the game, is not a complete novelty (a Satellite since one of his many talents is to facial muscles even less. Combine that with German filmmaker once did a similar film install those prophets of the newest CNN a quirky sense of humour and you have the with George Best) but courageous neverthe- broadcasted war. He is the hustler of the potential for a film as hilarious as Kauris- less. But it doesn’t quite work simply because town, but one with a heart of gold and all mäki’s previous Leningrad Cowboys Go one man walking around and running for 90 his dealings seem aimed to help the chil- America. But repeat it often enough and you minutes can only be so interesting. They al- dren in the village, since the adults seem to start to become a bit of a parody of yourself, low us into his head with the use of subtitles busy watching the news. We also have the and even guilty of reinforcing national stere- that enrich the film but the one beat they clairvoyant Henkov, the most resolute arm- otypes rather than exploring them. This, missed was letting us see what he saw; we less boy you ever saw, his little sister Armin his most recent film, centres on a lonely always see Zidane but we never see they by whom Satellite is smitten, and a baby boy watchman who falls in love with a homely game from his perspective. The subtitle of who turns out not to be their brother but just blond. But later we see that same girl turned the film (A 21st Century Portrait) is also a child left behind by those who had killed to ice by a different hairstyle and clothing puzzling. Zidane has always seemed a very their parents. Henkov isn’t the only one to be and we immediately recall the icy blonds of classical, almost old-fashioned footballer who handicapped though, a lack of limbs is quite Hitchcock and sure enough the story seems was more poet than athlete. The 21st century common with these kids and they move flu- to be taking a Vertigo-like turn when it turns part might have suited David Beckham idly despite that. This is landmine country. out she has been hired to manipulate him in better. But special praise has to be given to But the nobility and purity of heart some of order to steal some jewellery. But sadly the Icelandic band Kimono for combining their these kids display is enough to soften even movie never comes close to the emotional haunting music with the noise of the players the most cold-hearted critic. And Armin, complexity of Hitchcock’s masterpiece. It and the audience to create a truly stunning Soran’s sad and haunted object of affection, does, however, always maintain the warmth soundscape the visuals rarely equalled. has the grief of the world on her shoulders. If Kaurismäki has towards his characters and there’s any soul in us we will too by the end. that does go a long way. Clean, Shaven

Princess 12:08, East of Bucharest In the early days of Icelandic filmmaking the major problem used to be the sound. It Princess is a pitch-dark morality tale of a There are some who say the Romanian revo- simply wasn’t good enough and the term priest who goes on a mission to avenge his lution of 1989 wasn’t really a revolution at “good Icelandic film” almost began to mean a dead porn-star sister, accompanied by the all, but simply a scheme cooked up by those film where you could actually hear what the sister’s baby daughter Mia. This is not only next in charge to Nicolae Ceausescu who actors said. But that was a technical problem. the perfect answer to anyone who thinks had grown tired and fearful of the tyrant’s In Clean, Shaven it seems to have been an cartoons are just for kids but also a bloody idiosyncrasies. Those theories take strength artistic decision. Like most artistic decisions good movie. In an inspired move flashbacks from the fact many of those have remained director Lodge H. Kerrigan makes in the are made from blurry live action footage, giv- in power and proven themselves well-versed film it is a poor one. The film, for what it’s ing us the back-story on two very different in the corruption Ceausescu bred, although worth, seems to be about a schizophrenic yet close siblings, August the clergyman and they’ve thankfully never equalled that royal who tries to reunite with his daughter on a Christina, the Princess of the title. While family for sheer madness. Director Corneliu eerie remote island while also being impli- dead she is still very visible since the com- Porumboiu doesn’t try to ask those questions cated in a murder case. He’s also very much pany she worked for sees no reason to recall directly but rather wonders what exactly a into self-mutilation, including the one truly her material after her death, meaning little revolution is and how you can be a part of it. memorable scene in the movie. But all of the Mia will encounter her mother in the nearest After an aimless first half the movie comes characters are distant and uninteresting, a newsstand. The movie shifts easily between to life inside of a TV studio on December worthy topic in itself, but since the camera an icy revenge thriller to tender scenes where 22nd, exactly 16 years after Ceausescu fled in (and the microphone) is equally distant August gets to know his little niece Mia. a helicopter and relinquished power. It’s the and uninteresting we might as well all be at Then it turns into the movie Fight Club talk show from hell, featuring a host incred- home. Reading the festival booklet it claims would have been had it been made by an ibly uncomfortable in front of the camera the film “immediately grabs the audience’s angry feminist but by the final scene we’re and two old men who reminisce aimlessly attention” and I couldn’t help but think of reminded of the unflinching morality of a about the events, although one of them is the girl three seats away who fell asleep five Christopher Nolan film where the end never more busy making paper airplanes from his minutes in. I bet she had a better time. justifies the means. Perhaps not for the faint note sheets. The other claims to have taken of heart but certainly full of heart. part in the revolution, but when viewer after viewer calls in doubting his words we start Russian Ark to wonder if cheering in the streets after it’s Paradise Now finally safe makes one a revolutionary or not. Aleksandr Sokurov wrote himself into the The main criticism is really that he had been record books by filming the longest continu- They are monsters to some and martyrs to too late for the revolution because after 12:08 ous shot in movie history, the 96-minute others. But rather than judging the notorious everybody knew dancing in the streets revolt- movie that is Russian Ark. It’s a walk suicide bombers of our time it wouldn’t hurt ing was perfectly safe (although that is surely through the many rooms of the Hermitage to try to understand where they are coming a latter-day simplification). It is of course an Museum with a cast of thousands that rep- from. Here we have two childhood friends absurd notion that one can be a few minutes resents various aspects of Russian history. So in Palestine, Said and Khaled, who go on a late for a national uprising but puts the ques- many will probably call it a technical marvel. mission that goes awry before it can properly tion of the nature of revolutions under the It is not, a technical marvel would be to do begin – and after that questions are raised microscope. These questions are interesting, this well. Basically Sokurov’s achievement about whether they should try again or not. but sadly the scene (which is more than half lies in knowing how to work a steadicam and These are ordinary men in hellish circum- the movie) goes on a little too long for the the newest digital technology, getting a lot of stances, having lived under occupation since film to truly deliver. actors to dress in period customs for the shot birth. A girl they know challenges them on and not bother to cut the film. It’s not that their methods and tells them they are harm- the idea is bad, it’s actually brilliant. The ing the cause to no end. And while they may Zidane, a 21st Century Portrait problem is that we are accompanied by the not share her belief in a peaceful solution one cinematographer and a French marquis that starts to feel they agree about the futility of In the beautiful Kurdish film Turtles Can both blather aimlessly throughout the whole their mission. The title is a clear indication Fly Zinedine Zidane is referred to, proudly, film about absolutely nothing at all and of that, Paradise Now as in right now. Said as a Muslim by a young boy. Shortly after- hardly any of the talk seems in any way rel- repeatedly refers to life under the occupa- wards an armless boy headbutts our main evant to Russian history. A rich and fascinat- tion as hell on earth and seems to crave the protagonist to the ground. The film was ing history that, if you can read Icelandic, is paradise he’s been promised on the other made before the World Cup final but I don’t covered infinitely better in Árni Bergmann’s side. That actually raises interesting ques- think anybody in the audience could help but short tome Rússland og Rússar (Russia and tions about religious fundamentalism, with think of the Gallic master at that moment. the Russians). But this ark sinks a wonderful its strong belief in a better afterlife. Can it be Zidane’s exit from the world of football last premise – and it’s also often poorly lit. that such notions will always thrive in those summer was probably the most dramatic poetry Nýhil Poetry in the Grapevine: Þórdís Björnsdóttir @@@0;*9.?27.2<

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Þórdís Björnsdóttir (b. 1978) has been affiliated with the Nýhil group ever since releasing her first book in 2004, Ást og Appelsínur, which received Belgískt gæðakonfekt frá Galler. much hype (for a poetry book, anyway). Since then, she has released the prose book Vera and Linus in cahoots with Jesse Ball, as well as the book of poetry this week’s Nýhil selection is culled from: …og svo kom nóttin Kringlan (…And Then Came the Night). 568 9966

Handgert íslenskt And Then the Night Came eðalkonfekt frá Hafliða The wood filled with creatures that sang with faded voice and flitted. Ragnarssyni As the warm breeze they surrounded me, filling me with such gladness úr Mosfellsbæ. that I fell to nothing in peace and slowly ran away like water.

It was fine watching them move. They watched each other’s eyes like fish in the green calmness of the core, and gave to him images; Belgískt gæðakonfekt með a beautiful flower, a little stone that felt right in the palm. líkjör, súkkulaðifylltir vindlar og eðal marsipan ávextir. The bleeding trees drank into themselves . . . mikið úrval af þýskum konfekttrufflum. And there a girl lies hidden, her eyes closed! Yes, all’s fine while she sleeps on soundly so like the soil. BERGSTAÐASTRÆTI 13 I covered myself with a blanket, hoping she would not see me. - PHONE: 551 3083 But through a tear in the cloth I peered and saw.

I heard how you changed your voice while you sang for the crawling worms, and whispered words into the hole Oldest bakery in Iceland so they all came up covered in blood.

“How much I would like to be the wind,” she finally said out loud through the air and vanished between the trees. since 1834

The wind and I.

How did it all begin? Step into Multimedia techniques bring Reykjavík’s past to life, providing visitors with insights into how people lived in the Viking Age, and what the Reykjavík environment the Viking Age looked like to the first settlers. The Settlement Exhibition 871±2 is located at Aðalstræti 16

Reykjavík City Museum www.reykjavik871.is 34 fiction

Faces

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TIGER TOMSSON from a book, I slid down under my desk. Crawled between the girls’ chairs, inching my way toward the teacher’s desk. The kids sat quiet as corpses, and Our house had once been a two-storey affair with a basement, but then the Miss Astrid’s reading achieved ever higher levels of dramatic fervour. When I second floor was destroyed in a fire, and the roof collapsed onto the first. After reached the teacher’s desk, I slithered underneath the narrow slat on the front of that, the house looked like a venerable old lady who has pulled her hat down it and peeked under her skirt. Her stout thighs were encased in black stockings, over her eyes. It was clad in rusty corrugated metal and leaned charmingly into exuding heat and humidity. I glanced back at the boys who sat in the row by the the wind. In the yard stood an elegant birch tree that, upon losing its battle with window, terror tattooed on their faces. I grabbed her crotch. A most educational the first violent storm after we moved in, made an excellent bridge leading up sensation. She hopped screaming out of her seat. to the balcony. There was a ghost in the tiny basement apartment, a lovesick old woman who had the habit of lying next to people when they awoke and looking I looked pensively at her. Her face was beet-red. She couldn’t believe what had soulfully into their eyes. just happened. She couldn’t even manage to work herself up into the neurotic hysteria that she resorted to so often I could never take her seriously. Just asked One morning, soon after we moved into the house and I was allocated the me gently to sit down. Forced a tense laugh and tried to make a joke out of it. bedroom that looked out over the spacious yard, I woke up positively convinced No one understood what had happened, least of all I myself. I’d only done it that I could fly. I announced as much to Jamie, my friend and next-door because I was bored. It was nice to see that sergeant-major transformed into a neighbour, who usually agreed with me about everything – until the day human being for a split second. when I convinced him to run away from home with me. This most faithful of friends denied point-blank that I could fly. I tried to appeal to his intelligence, explaining that it could only happen in a really stiff wind, and then only if I IN THE COUNTRY went outside in a great wide coat and spread it out like wings against the wind; then I would take flight and could glide along the gutter on the edge of the roof. When spring came I was sent north to the country. Out in the barnyard was Admitting, of course, that if I let go of the gutter I was in trouble. But it was a large group of boys milling around aimlessly, as no one was hired to talk enough to hold on with one finger. to them. I was to sleep in a large dormitory lined with bunk beds. There were tussles, yelps, and giggling in every corner of the room. The cacophony He didn’t think so. reminded me of a colony of birds nesting high up on a cliff. I was the youngest boy in the group and had no particular desire to go in there, so I took my bag I found this utter disbelief on the part of my friend strangely enervating. The and continued down the hall until I reached a door and opened it. Two made-up next time it was fiercely windy I went out into the yard in my parka and took beds. Family photos and pictures of angels here and there. These people were position on a big rock beneath the bedroom window. I must have known deep obviously well connected in heaven. The light from outside seeped in through down how it would turn out, for I felt distinctly ashamed of myself for acting the black curtains and played on the old suit hanging on the wall. It seemed to like this; after all, I was seven years old. But I had to make sure, so I opened the recognise the place. I sat down on one of the beds. wings of the parka into the autumn winds. Nothing happened. It then became clear to me that I’d dreamed it all, and that there were ruthless boundaries In a little while a curly-haired farm hand in boots came in and told me that I between worlds. was supposed to sleep in the dormitory, not in this bedroom. I didn’t answer him. Just looked at the pictures. He rattled off a series of names familiar and Ever since that time, the house, which has long since disappeared from the exotic. Said then that it would be best if we went over to the dorm so he could face of the earth, followed me. Though I only lived there for about three years, show me my bunk. I looked at the bedside table. Next to an angel walking over I never live anywhere else. My dreams of that house are always populated by a bridge lay a thick, heavy tome with gilt-edged pages. I started paging through bus number five and a large tomcat. The house, which may be about to topple the book. The farm hand looked me over for a minute. Said then that he’d see over or may be newly renovated, is my state of being at any given time. The bus, whether I couldn’t just stay here in the bedroom for the first few days. which sometimes glides along inside the house, sometimes careens driverless down the street at a hundred and forty, and sometimes stands rusted and forlorn I lived in that room all summer. Actually, another boy came later and stayed in in a suburban parking lot, is the movement and direction my life is taking. And the other bed, but I was miffed that anyone should barge into my quarters like the cat in the house, which is sometimes eating an apple, sometimes saying that, so I never even looked at him. I can’t even describe him. He was nice to something like “Thanks” when I offer him some tuna fish, is the soul. me, though. Maybe he even thought we were friends.

I called him Tiger Tomsson because he was golden with white stripes. I had The farm hand came and said our prayers with us in the evenings – first with found him hungry and bedraggled on the street and had taken him home with the other boy, and then with me. The cook had begun to read the Bible for us me. I offered him some tuna, and he slept at my feet. Then I was ordered to take during the lunch hour, and it seemed to me an exciting story, though I couldn’t him out, and when I went to school he followed me to the bus stop outside the understand a word she said. The farm hand read to me from some book that was Single Parents’ Association building. The wind slapped us like a wet rag in the supposed to be a story about a boy growing up, but to me it was one unrelieved face, and I left him in the shelter of a new building next to the bus stop. Told tragedy from beginning to end. It was called Confessions and was by some guy him to wait there. When I came home three hours later, having received an called Augustine. adequate dose of education for that day – in my opinion, at any rate – there he stood waiting for me. From that day on I never allowed him to be banished from First there was a long and detailed account of how the author had been a the house. shockingly bad boy when he was little. This description was so painful and teeming with remorse that I became pretty solidly convinced that he had killed his teacher, his parents, his siblings – probably everyone he knew. Finally he NÚ ANDAR got to the point. He’d stolen an apple. The man so regretted his childhood peccadilloes that one would have thought they had alienated him from God An unsettled feeling always welled up inside me when bus number five for time and all eternity, though he never mentioned any crime other than approached the stop near the university. The kids from my neighbourhood having colluded with his friends to steal one poor miserable apple. The part he got out there, walked across the square, and went to the primary school. My considered worst was the fact that he knew it was wrong when he did it. But he restlessness had its root in the fact that I was never sure whether I would get did it nevertheless. I thought this was odd, because if he didn’t know he mightn’t out of the bus with them or stay aboard and go downtown. At first my friends take the apple, then he wasn’t really stealing it. Just taking it. And for simply participated in the suspense: “Tiger, aren’t you going to show?” A great farewell taking it he wouldn’t be cast out from the company of the righteous forever. ceremony took place in the bus when it became clear that I wasn’t going to There must have been something special about that apple and that apple tree. So school that day, and the kids promised to say I was sick and wished me well out I asked the farm hand, in the big world. Little by little things changed, though, and soon enough the kids were astonished when I did get off the bus with them: “Tiger, are you going “Was that apple from the same tree as the one the cook was telling us about, the to school?” one no one was allowed to eat from in Paradise?”

Miss Astrid, our teacher, had discovered that I was the root of all evil in the He thought it over for a minute. Then he said, a little hesitantly, class, and perhaps she had something there. Actually I didn’t do much myself, but the other kids were strangely willing to act out the monstrosities that my “Mebbe so.” fertile mind conjured up. One time Miss Astrid tried to outfox me by making me sit at the back of the middle row, behind the girls. She was delighted with It seemed to me that I had figured out what these people were always talking her own cunning, for I couldn’t get away with anything from that location. I about, and so I decided then and there to believe in God and say my prayers was bored to death sitting back there, and once while she sat and read aloud every evening. art 35 The Invasion of the Visual Artists Sequences Real Time art festival

BY STEINUNN JAKOBSDÓTTIR PHOTO BY SKARI

The first Sequences – Real Time Festival, an international cross-media art festival focusing on time-based art phenomena will kick off Friday October 13th and perk up downtown Reykjavík for two weeks. The festival includes 140 local and international artists, musi- cians and performers who will invade over 30 venues in Reykjavík’s city centre. Established museums and galleries, shops, bars and public spaces will be hosting multiple exhibitions focusing on time-based art phenomena. Link- ing contemporary visual art with other media, especially sound and performance art, bring- ing together different art forms. The Grapevine talked to Christian Schoen, director of the Centre for Icelandic Art and one of the festival’s organisers, and discovered that there’s going to be a lot of very weird things happening in the city.

“Basically the idea was to establish a platform for what I think is very typical for the Icelan- dic art scene today. Typical in the sense of this special raw and creative energy characteristic in Iceland as well as the collaboration and in- terrelation between visual arts, sound and per- formance art. Numerous artists are working in collaboration with other artists and musicians. Here, art and culture has kind of a different notion than in other parts of the world. The drill hole at Hellisheiði. The short film Time- the festival, called the Helium Choir, which useless? Well, that all has to unfold when you freedom in creativity in general is something Killing will be on display at the Naked Ape, is a 20-minute sound installation, will take see the performance.” that makes Iceland very attractive and is in my The National Gallery will focus on the post- place up in the tower of the Apótek building At Skífan record store, Stefánsdóttir’s view something very unique but very typical 1980s paintings by the first generation influ- while Marta María Jónsdóttir will show her three video works, Dinner Party, Mobiler, of its art scene,” Schoen explains. enced by pop and punk culture, while a ping animated film on the corner of Laugavegur and Playtime will be screened at the same “To create a festival is nothing new but a pong dance installation by Egill Sæbjörnsson and Klapparstígur. time. “The useless element is also very clear lot of art festivals have no clear focus,” Schoen will take place at SAFN. The list goes on and “I’m personally very excited to see the in the video works. In Dinnerparty I’m for continues. “I think that festivals make sense on. artists working in public spaces,” Schoen says. example preparing a dinner party but not in if they are really focusing on something con- “You’ll have to find the exhibitions or stumble any ordinary way. I cook fish with a hairdryer temporary, something up-to-date. Therefore Praying in a pyramid on them, kind of like a surprise. The front and boil potatoes in a food processor and in we stressed that in our concept we would be Sequences’ opening ceremony will take place wall of the Icelandic Parliament will for exam- Playtime, which I worked on in cooperation focusing on time-based art projects. Time- at The Living Art Museum, which is the ple be lit up one night,” (that event is a video with Davíð Þór Jónsson keyboardist, I play based art is a term that is used in art theory artistic heart of the festival. Hosting various projection by Andrew Burgess). Giving the some weird instruments, change an ironing for specific projects that deal with time and performances, video projections, and sound old building a fresh new look. The city centre board into a cello and use a blender as drums are somehow in perception time based. The installations, it will begin with performances will be no less exhilarating when Copenha- for example,” Stefánsdóttir adds, but how that subtitle “real-time festival” stresses that you by Geirþrúður Finnbogadóttir Hjörvar and gen/New York collective Parfyme Deluxe all worked out, she says we’ll just have to see really have to be here to experience it. You Snorri Ásmundsson. Ásmundsson’s Pyramid will get on their weird little wagon and speed for ourselves. can’t transport the idea of the festival through of Love will undoubtedly grab someone’s around town with the aim of helping people For the upcoming two weeks there will be catalogues for example. You have to experi- attention but he is building a pyramid made and doing good deeds. plenty to see and the schedule is quite packed. ence what is going on by showing up at the out of plexiglas, which he will sit inside to Ilmur María Stefánsdóttir is very mysteri- Asked about certain highlights, Schoen points venue at the time the performance takes place, meditate and pray for love and happiness. ous when explaining her project, called Stupid out particularly the schedule at Tjarnar- and even participate in it.” “I find that love, peace and happiness is People, which she will perform opposite Café bíó movie theatre, where a row of local and By the number of artists taking part in the lacking in our society. With this perform- Hljómalind on Laugavegur, Friday the 13th. foreign artists and musicians will put on a rich festival, it is clear that the need for expres- ance I want to send a positive message out to Stefánsdóttir describes the performance as program of video and performance nights. sion and creation is strong in local as well as the public,” Snorri says. The pyramid will be “a surreal, pointless and useless perform- “It is really hard to point out certain international art culture today. The Reykjavík placed in various locations around the city ance about a lonely cat in a tree, wet window events. Of course you can’t be everywhere at downtown will be somewhat crowded with during the festival. washing, eccentric painting, impossible the same instant but we try not to have too contemporary visual artists putting up art The basic idea for this festival is namely jumping in the wrong outfit, a 70s circus in much going on at the same time. If locals are performances, sound installations and video not to invade only established art venues like windy rain, poorly performed with frightfully willing to participate with us, I’m pretty sure projections and the venues are as diverse as the galleries and museums but also places where bad technique.” When asked to clarify a bit that this festival is going to be a very unique exhibitions they are housing. To name a few, life is, where the public hangs out and wanders Stefánsdóttir told the Grapevine that the idea event, and hopefully an annual one.” Gallery Turpentine will host Jón Sæmundur around. Performances will take place at Aus- is basically to take things out of context and Auðnasons’s Longplay installation and Húbert turvöllur, Laugavegur and various other public find them a new role. “The useless element in For full program visit: www. sequences.is. Nói’s movie of a 50-megawatt geothermal spaces. Musician Kira Kira’s contribution to things is very dominating. What do I mean by 36 religion

The Mission is the Goal Exploring isolation and devotion with some LDS kids

BY HAUKUR MAGNÚSSON PHOTO BY SKARI

“I didn’t pick Iceland. I was assigned it,” says Speaking in tongues “We mainly do it on our own and use an people a week. They had two conversions last Elder William Ferrell, 22, a native of Utah Elders Maxwell and Ferrell share simi- hour of every morning to advance our studies. year, but this year’s looking better, with ten and a missionary from the Church of Jesus lar backgrounds. Both come from devout We’ll write down words we don’t understand baptisms so far and more to come.. Christ of Latter-day Saints, whose adherents Mormon families and the faith has formed a and try and look them up or ask people we “People are usually polite,” Elder Max- are most commonly referred to as Mormons. large part of their lives. Elder Maxwell has six meet what they mean. Once in a while, we well replies. “But sometimes they are not. “What happens is that in the church, we siblings who are all “pretty much Mormon,” will have a member of our church that gives Especially at night, when they’re drunk and have a living prophet and apostles. When as he describes it, although he is the first in a class.” Elder Ferrell agrees and offers: “One don’t know what they’re doing. We have been we have the desire to go out on a mission we his family to ever go on a mission. “I was a of the major things that helps us more than threatened, cussed at, spit at and had doors fill out a form and send it in for evaluation. normal kid. I grew up playing sports, listening anything is talking with God and asking him slammed in our faces, told to ‘get the F outta Divine inspiration then determines where we to music. I was in bands and stuff when I was for help. You have to be humble enough to ask here!’ But usually, they’ll just not want to talk get sent, although we of course have the right a teenager and associated with all types of for help, something that not everyone knows about it. We’re used to hearing that. Some to decline a given mission. We spend two kids, I went to concerts and parties although I how to do. It is a very humbling experience to people are afraid of change and if they would months at the Missionary Training Centre, didn’t participate in the drinking or smoking. speak Icelandic to Icelanders after only learn- find out that what we’re saying is true, that or MTC, preparing for our mission, mostly Around the time I turned 19 however, I de- ing it for two or three months from someone would mean a lot of change for them. That’s a learning how to teach but also taking lan- cided that I wasn’t going to go to church just who doesn’t speak the language fluently.” big part of it, people don’t want to think about guage tips from Elders who have been in our to go, I wanted to find out if there was more Do you speak Icelandic to one another? it or challenge how they’re living; they’re designated region.” to it. I received an answer, and the answer I “We try to, as much as we can. Try is a comfortable with where they’re at and would Twenty one year old Arizonan Elder Bren- got is the reason I am here now. I wouldn’t be good word. From the first day we started rather not talk about it at all. That’s the most nik Maxwell, a soft-spoken psychology major spending two years of my life as a missionary learning at the MTC, we started to pray in common reaction, I would think. and punk rock enthusiast says the decision is if I didn’t know.” Icelandic. It was hard at first, but it got easier “Although I’m not sure how I would react not an easy one. To go about it properly, they Elder Ferrell went through a similar after a while. Now, we sometimes even find it if someone from another religious persuasion must effectively distance themselves from the process before deciding to ‘go missionary’. He difficult to switch to English for our prayers,” would come to me and try and convert me. I’d outside world for two years spent in a strange says that Mormon youth is actively encour- says Elder Ferrell. probably be willing to talk about it, now more country. For the course of their mission, they aged to think critically about the things they than ever. We are rather experienced in rejec- can not follow any media, news or pop culture are taught and make up their own minds as Punk rock missionary tion.” in any way. And although they do get to to whether they decide to heed the call of Elder Maxwell speaks of his love for giv- Referring to the last year and a half (ten communicate with their families via e-mail faith. “You have to be 19 to go on a mission ing young kids from the congregation guitar months for Elder Maxwell) as the biggest [Monday is e-mail day], phone calls are limited and when I turned that age, I started asking lessons. His main musical inspirations were, learning experience of their lifetimes, the to greetings on Christmas and Mother’s Day. myself if I should go on a mission. It was in the past: “Punk music, screaming music. Elders tell me how they’ve come to fathom “We want to concentrate on our mission. something I’d always thought that I wanted As I Lay Dying and Alexisonfire are personal more about forgiveness and looking at life We shouldn’t really be worrying about what’s to do, but when the time came, I wanted to favourites. I didn’t listen to the typical music from different people’s perspectives. They happening in Iraq or what’s going on in pop be sure that it was right for me so I sought out most LDS kids like. I am pretty sure I will tell me they’ve learnt humility and made a culture. If I happen to hear the radio these classes that teach about scripture and did a lot reconsider my listening habits when I get back lot of great friends. One thing they haven’t days, I am at a complete loss,” says Elder of studying myself. I obviously came here, but home. I might at least go over the CDs and experienced, however, is what most visitors to Maxwell, “I don’t recognise any of the songs. I wanted to make sure I was going because it take out any tracks that have swear words in Iceland will. That’s actually rather refreshing for a change. was something meaningful and not out of a them.” “I would think that tourists that have been And if something important is in the news, sense of obligation.” You didn’t have any problems participating here for a week have seen more of the attrac- people we know will usually call and let us A noteable thing about Mormon mis- in the punk rock scene in your hometown? tions than we’ve seen to this day,” says Elder know.” Continues Elder Ferrell: “Not watch- sionaries in Iceland is how quickly they seem “Not at all. It’s maybe not the scene I Ferrell and Maxwell continues. “The mission ing TV is a kind of a benefit too, I think. It’s to learn the difficult language. They claim would go back to now, there was a lot of is why we are here and we spend most of our made me realise how much time and effort the only notable difference in how they study smoking and drinking involved and I don’t time working towards that goal. We’ve prob- goes into it. Although sometimes, if we have languages from other people is that they pray a think I’d want to be around that anymore. It ably seen more of the streets and the people time to spare on preparation day, we can lot – not the answer those striving to teach the was fun, though, being around all my friends, here than most tourists do. We did go on a watch like a Disney movie to pass the time. language to foreigners were hoping for. I wasn’t drinking with them or participating tour of the Golden Circle, of course, and we’ll We were watching Mulan yesterday, that was Says Elder Maxwell: “When I first in those aspects, although it could be enter- go to the Blue Lagoon, but not to go swim- nice, we saw that and Hercules.” got here I talked to a administrator of the taining to watch them. But I managed to be ming.” There are other things they must leave language department that teaches Icelandic there without following blindly. I thought for Is it because of the naked showering behind as well. When asked if they have to foreigners. I approached him on the street myself, like I was raised to.” policy? girlfriends waiting back home, Elder Maxwell like so many others and he was like, ‘How They tell me that they generally try to “No, it’s just… we don’t go swimming at tells of a girl who said she’d wait for him when long have you been here?’ and I was like, ‘Five approach people they meet on the street to all while we are here. We’re a group of 20 year he decided to take up the mission. “She got months.’ And he was just amazed and asked to offer them a lesson in Mormonism, although olds and while we’re here, it’s best not to think married before I even made it to the MTC. interview me, to find out what we were doing they sometimes resort to knocking on people’s about certain things. Therefore, we keep our- Do I regret leaving? Not at all. I figured it differently and if his program could benefit doors. They try to approach at least ten differ- selves in a position so we don’t have to worry would probably happen. I guess she just didn’t from that. When I told him how we went ent people every day and that between the two about that.” have it in her.” about it, he said it didn’t help at all. of them they probably go through about 200

38 overview Best of Kárahnjúkar Reviewing the dam project that split a nation

BY STEINUNN JAKOBSDÓTTIR AND SVEINN BIRKIR BJÖRNSSON PHOTO BY FABRIZIO FRASCAROLI

As the Kárahnjúkar power plant inches closer to completion, opposition against the project increases. The Reykjavík Grapevine has com- piled the major events that have shaped the discussion in the last few years.

1999: The government of Iceland, the Na- tional Power Company and Norsk Hydro sign a declaration of intent to explore the viability of building an aluminum smelter in Reyðar- fjörður, powered by a hydroelectric dam in Fljótsdalur. Norsk Hydro later withdraws their interest out of concern for dam’s environ- mental effects.

14.2.2000: The group Friends of the Envi- ronment start a petition against the planned Fljótsdalur dam project. The petition was signed by 45,000 people by the time it was presented to the Prime Minister and the Min- ister of Industry.

14.7.2000: The National Power Company presents an assessment of environmental ef- fects of a proposed dam in Fljótsdalur, located at Kárahnjúkar.

29.5.2001: Icelandic Nature Conservation Association (INCA) issues a resolution reject- ing plans for the proposed Kárahnjúkar dam, due to the irrevocable environmental damage the project calls for.

2.8.2001: The Icelandic National Planning Agency rules against the Kárahnjúkar dam tion of intent on the continued discussion of mentary elections in May 2003. The proposal project. The National Power Company, along the construction the Kárahnjúkar dam and is declined with thirty-five votes against six, 5.1.2005: The Icelandic Labor Union ASÍ with 100 inhabitants of East Iceland appeal the construction of an aluminum smelter in while ten MPs abstain from voting. Twelve criticises wages paid to foreign workers on the decision. INCA considers the verdict the East Iceland. MPs are not present during voting. the Kárahnjúkar project. They receive 50,000 biggest victory for environmental protection ISK less than minimum wage according to a in Iceland. 2.9.2002: Minister of Industry authorises 5.3.2003: Parliament approves a proposal that contract for the project. the construction of a 750 MW power plant allows the Minister of Industry to enter into 20.12.2001: Minister for the Environment, at Kárahnjúkar to provide the Reyðarfjörður negotiations on the building and operation 7.4.2005: New geological studies show that Siv Friðleifsdóttir, reverses an earlier verdict aluminum smelter with energy. of an aluminum smelter in Reyðarfjörður. dislocations at the Kárahnjúkar damming site by the Icelandic National Planning Agency on The proposal is accepted with forty-one votes are more extensive than originally anticipated. the Kárahnjúkar dam project and agrees to the 6.12.2002: Italian contractor Impregilo has against nine. One MP abstains from voting. The studies indicate that water pressure from hydroelectric power plant as long as 20 condi- the lowest bid for the construction of the Ká- Twelve MPs are not present. the Hálsalón lagoon could cause movement in tions on environmental protection are met. rahnjúkar dam. The Italians’s bid is substan- the dislocation. tially lower than cost estimates. 14.3.2003: Opponents of the Kárahnjúkar 20.12.2001: Member of Reykjavík City dam plan a torchlight procession in front 19.7.2005: Protest camp established at Kárah- Council, Ólafur F. Magnússon, resigns from 7.12.2002: Swedish contractor NCC claims of the parliamentary building. Sixty-three njúkar. the Independence Party, citing the party’s to have pulled out of the bid for the Kárahn- candles were lit, one for each of the country’s environmental policy and the party’s support júkar dam project for environmental reasons. MPs. Fifty-four candles are then blown out, 27.3.2006: Twenty-six-year-old Icelandic for the Kárahnjúkar dam project as reasons. representing the fifty-four MPs who did not worker is fatally injured in an accidental 10.12.2002: In a meeting in City Coun- vote against the Kárahnjúkar dam. explosion at the Kárahnjúkar dam. 6.2.2002: Minister of Industry proposes a bill cil, council member Ólafur F. Magnússon that would allow the damming of Jökulsá á demands that the Mayor of Reykjavík declare 15.3.2003: 1,000 people attend a meeting in 2.4.2006: Icelandic worker is fatally injured Brú and Jökulsá í Fljótsdal. that the City of Reykjavík will not take part Reyðarfjörður where Minister of Industry- in an accident at the Kárahnjúkar damming in the signing of an agreement between the Valgerður Sverrisdóttir, Minister of Finance site. 15.2.2002: INCA, along with three individu- National Power Company and Alcoa, planned Geir H. Haarde, CEO and director of Alcoa als, sue Siv Friðleifsdóttir, Minister of the later that week. Alain J.P. Belda, head of Alcoa’s, negotia- 12.5.2006: Three hundred people protest Environment and Geir H. Haarde, Minister tions committee Michael Baltzell, CEO of outside the parliament building as the corner- of Finance on behalf of the Icelandic govern- 10.1.2003: The executive boards of Alcoa and the National Power Company Jóhannes Geir stone for the power plant’s control station. ment, following the earlier decision of the the National Power Company agree to a price Sigurgeirsson, director of the National Power Minister for the Environment to revoke the for energy for the Reyðarfjörður aluminum Company Friðrik Sophusson and the mayor 7.8.2006: Protesters camp by Kárahnjúkar Icelandic National Planning Agency’s verdict smelter. Minister of Industry, Valgerður Sver- of Fjarðabyggð Guðmundur Bjarnason, sign a closed by local police authorities. Fourteen and authorise the Kárahnjúkar dam project. risdóttir, celebrates the agreement. Energy contract for the construction of an aluminum people are arrested. prices are kept confidential. smelter in Reyðarfjörður. 8.4.2002: Parliament approves a proposal that 26.8.2006: The MPs of the Leftist-Green allows the Kárahnjúkar dam and authorises 14.1.2003: Premiere of Ómar Ragnarsson’s 18.3.2003: The National Power Company party ask the government to postpone plans the National Power Company to build and documentary Á Meðan Land Byggist to a full and Impregilo sign a contract for the con- to start filling the Hálsalón lagoon until risk operate a hydro-electric power plant in Fljóts- house in Austurbæjarbíó. struction of the Kárahnjúkar dam, worth 38 assessment can be re-evaluated. dalur with 750 MW production capacity and billion ISK, plus VAT. to dam Jökulsá á Brú and Jökulsá í Fljótsdal, 14.1.2003: On behalf of the City of Rey- 21.9.2006: TV news reporter Ómar Ragnars- the Kárahnjúkar dam. The proposal is ap- kjavík, Mayor Ingibjörg Sólrún Gísladóttir 20.12.2003: The first of three giant drills son declares that he can no longer maintain proved with 44 votes against nine, while two meets with representatives from Alcoa and used for the construction of the Kárahnjúkar his objectivity regarding the Kárahnjúkar MPs abstain. agrees to pose a request to city council that the dam arrives from Cleveland, Ohio, The drill project, and will not report on the matter in City of Reykjavík will guarantee a loan for the is 130 tons, its largest piece weighing 70 tons, the future. Ragnarsson calls for the shutdown 19.4.2002: Representatives from Alcoa study National Power Company for the construction making it the heaviest payload ever transport- of the dam and that plans to fill the Hálsárlón the possibility of building an aluminum smelt- of the Kárahnjúkar dam. ed on Icelandic highways. lagoon be postponed. er in Reyðarfjörður. 16.1.2003: 1,000 people protest the proposed 15.3.2004: An Icelandic worker is fatally in- 26.9.2006: Twelve-thousand people join a 11.7.2002: The chairmen of seven Icelandic developments at Kárahnjúkar outside Rey- jured while working on the Kárahnjúkar dam. demonstration march in support of Ómar environmental and nature preservation as- kjavík City Hall, while City Council meets to 24. 4.2004: Drilling starts. Ragnarson and in protest against the Kárah- sociations encourage Alcoa to revise plans for discuss the city’s loan guarantee. City Council njúkar dam. the construction of an aluminum smelter in approves the guarantee. July 2004: TV news reporter Ómar Ragnars- Reyðarfjörður. son, publishes the book Kárahnjúkavirkjun - 28.9.2006: The construction of the Kárahn- 4.3.2003: Leader of the Leftist-Green með og á móti (Kárahnjúkar – Pros and Cons) júkar dam is complete, build up of Hálsalón 19.7.2002: Valgerður Sverrisdóttir, Minister Party, Steingrímur J. Sigfússon, proposes an lagoon begins, and the water reservoir will of Industry, G. John Pizzey, vice president of amendment to the Kárahnjúkar law, which 8.7.2004: First ground is broken for the flood 57 km2 of Europe’s largest unspoiled Alcoa Inc. and Friðrik Sophusson, director of would allow a nationwide referendum on the construction of the Reyðarfjörður aluminum wilderness. the National Power Company, sign a declara- Kárahnjúkar dam in relation to the parlia- smelter. travel 39

Outside Reykjavík Kárahnjúkar

The Lonesome Traveller: Kárahnjúkar One last look before the flood

BY FABRIZIO FRASCAROLI PHOTOS BY FABRIZIO FRASCAROLI

It takes only ten years of detoxification and a landmark for the entire region. Another am surprised to hear people speaking English Fljótsdalur valley: beyond it, the wild begins, total abstinence from cigarettes for a smoker’s landmark, and a common denominator of at every corner, but in a remote Icelandic as well as my walk. No real plans in mind: body to completely undo the damage of these lands is Snæfell: queen of Icelandic town the size of a napkin – there will be a I have enough time at my disposal (roughly former years of dependence, and return to its mountains, the highest non-glacier summit power plant effect, you can bet on that. two weeks) for giving myself over to some original state, as if never touched by the habit in the country, an immense mass of rock and I have not been in the East for some years. thorough exploration. The Kárahnjúkar camp of tobacco intake. It is my favourite argu- ice that towers above the land and claims the Coming back, I am only positively impressed is the ultimate destination, and Snæfell a ment against those who eagerly sentence me horizon for a range of many kilometres. This by the friendliness of the people. Even after compulsory midway halt – besides that, noth- to premature death. It also brings me to beg is the Snæfell area, one of the largest wilder- a seven-year lucky career in hitchhiking, I ing is truly settled. It feels good, however, to the question, how much time will be needed nesses in Europe, a well-known destination am still especially surprised by how easy it start the journey in sunny and warm weather, for a heavily altered ecosystem to find balance for hardcore trekkers long before it ended up is to find a lift and get around. As if being as these may be the last glimpses of summer I again, and heal from the cancers of ill policy- as sacrificial lamb of a harnessing project, and accepted as a passenger is not enough, farmers am accorded. making and forced industrialisation? Kárahnjúkar usurped the title of lordship over offer me carrots from the crop, or invite me Again, I have never been here before, and Kárahnjúkar. One of the unpronounce- the region. Curiously, in spite of five years of to their homes for coffee. It is a refreshing I am aware that I am exploiting the moment able names (to foreign readers) of Icelandic scrambling up across the Icelandic highlands, sensation. as a last chance to see these places as they geography. A modest elevation forking into I had never hiked here before. “Tourists The drive through Hallormsstaður is a used to be, and will be no more. I don’t really two distinct peaks. It is a location that used to mainly arrive in Reykjavík, and from there pleasant affair, too. Lots of trees all around, feel the coming doom as an incumbent threat, be mostly unknown, even to locals, which has but the consideration clearly affects my sensa- suddenly risen to international notoriety and tions as I approach. I seek the wild essentially relevance in the context of one of the most “I used to believe – or at least to behave according to for the sense of freedom it brings back to heated debates this country has seen. my life, but in this case it feels different. I And yet, for the most part, Kárahnjúkar the conviction – that there is always a second chance dislike any flavour of a scheduled, calen- is only a label – an inappropriate and rather dared, or charted trip, which inevitably takes misleading one, as often happens when the in life, that a missed opportunity will be redeemed by something away from the pure enjoyment of language of media takes over, and obses- a looser plan. I have a sort of existential bit- sively repeated expressions become both sign another similar one. I must now realise that it is not terness about this, even. I used to believe – or and referent, burying reality under a veil at least to behave according to the conviction of indeterminacy and intangibility. Thus, always so.” – that there is always a second chance in life, Kárahnjúkar has become the moniker for a that a missed opportunity will be redeemed much broader region. But it is not healthy by another similar one. I must now realise practice to underplay the reality of things they start spreading,” a hunter once told me. even surpassing the size of a grown man: a that it is not always so. through ambiguity and vagueness. And some He seemed to apply rudiments of migratory rarity in the Icelandic landscape. The locals The countryside along the banks of the of the areas that will be affected – or utterly theory to the tourist’s behaviour. “But few proudly call it a forest, which may sound like river Jökulsá á Fljótsdal runs smooth, almost flooded – in the context of the much disputed reach the opposite side of the country, and a bit of an exaggeration, but this remains bucolic in bright weather. Rich vegetation “Kárahnjúkavirkjun” (Kárahnjúkar Power that’s why the East is still so wild and beauti- the largest wood in the country nonethe- with cliffs of basalt towering above and sheep Plant) lay there, where the Kárahnjúkar peaks ful.” less. Here, the presence of the trees connotes roaming ubiquitously, is bordered by the river are unable to show their presence. autumn as a distinct part of the year, not as a bed playing nice tricks with the rushing mud- The project – a big part of which has Fljótsdalur valley and Eyjabakkar mere transition between summer and winter. dy waters, forcing them to continuous jumps, now been completed – affects the surround- My journey begins in Egilsstaðir. It is It may vary in length, depending on when the falls, unexpected bends, in an unbroken and ings of two of Iceland’s most powerful rivers, September 14th, which means I am already real cold actually arrives, but it is the moment almost hypnotic chain of potential camera both running from the icefalls of Vatna- on the edge of a possible winter. Unsurpris- when the leaves turn red and the surround- shots. Trees – real ones – make their appear- jökull: Jökla, stemming from Brúarjökull, ingly the campsite is basically deserted (with ings exhibit their most vivid and charming ance again in Kleifarskógur, a tender and and Jökulsá á Fljótsdal, running through the the exception of myself and another solitary colours. People there seem particularly fond truly lovely wood embellished by the yellow flats of Eyjabakkar from Eyjabakkajökull. journeyman, a Canadian bicyclist on a multi- in this seasonal luxury. shades of its flora, fast and gushing waters The peaks of Kárahnjúkar are far from being month adventure across Northern Europe). I Glúmsstaðir is the last farm in the >>> continues on next page 40 travel

falling from the cliffs above and cutting its Jökulsá á Brú almost 15°C during the night, and consider- Autumn has finally imposed its colours on precipice. Further on, Snæfell discloses itself Jökla, Jökulsá á Dal, Jökulsá á Brú: three dif- ing today’s weather conditions, I can only feel the landscape – the last autumn anyone will for the first time, accompanied by its vassal ferent names for the same glacial river. They glad and sage for having dumped my original ever be able to admire around here. I usually Laugafell, and that presence saturates the run from the Brúarjökull icefall, cut the land plan of a two-day traverse across Brúarjökull. find the thought of autumnal decay to be picture. A work camp is built here, where west of Snæfell, carve one of the deepest and It seems that winter has come. made bearable only by the perspective of the one of the four dams that are part of the sheerest canyons in Iceland, skirt the peaks The storm ceases sometime during the following resurrection. But a sleep without Kárahnjúkar Power Plant project will soon be of Kárahnjúkar themselves, and finally direct night and still weather greets me upon awak- awakening – such as the one which is now ex- operational. The sight obviously does not help their own course towards the eastern coast, ening. It is still freezing cold, however. Under pected here – that’s a different issue entirely. to make the surroundings more charming. carrying with them amounts of mud and silt the white cloak of snow, the landscape only I have covered a very wide part of the There are explosions in the distance; a farmer unrivalled by any other stream in the country. reveals its contours, unreal and stylised in a area around Snæfell by now, and I believe I told me yesterday of drilling machines, the It is this watercourse and its surroundings monochromatic representation. Small ponds am finally starting to grasp its peculiar and diameter of five metres, piercing and wound- that will pay the highest toll for the realisa- surface every now and then, dark mirrors to specific beauty. Especially fascinating for ing the mountains – I am starting to grasp tion of the hydro-electric project. The first 20 the sky, which appears like a plate of stainless me is how different these locations feel from the scale of what is going on. km of the river and anything along it stand- steel. It reflects a pale light, colder than the the rest of the Highlands. Even in the most Where the land is completely flat, the wa- ing below 600 m of altitude, as well as part of snow itself. Kárahnjúkar is now big and vis- remote and solitary places, far away from ters of Jökulsá á Fljótsdal become placid and the icefall itself, will be regularly submerged ible, standing out against the vast flatness in Reykjavík, Iceland is punk-rock: a young slow, spreading over a vast area and branching by the water reservoir – every summer – just front of me. land, fast, rugged, raw and barren, with sud- into a number of veins and rivulets. This is to reappear again in wintertime, when ice- I have been out here for one week already. den and disharmonic explosions of energy and Eyjabakkar, a wetlands pullulating with life melt is least intense, by then deformed and The thought of the cold and other possible violence. And Iceland is noisy: thundering to an extraordinary extent, and one of the covered in mud. snowstorms (more than probable this time and growling waters, feedbacks in the wind main havens for birdlife and biodiversity in – I never have the perception of silence, fall- Iceland. But biodiversity, we all know, is not ing asleep in my tent in some remoteness of synonymous with cash, and heavy industry “Again, I have never been here before, and I am aware the countryside. rarely makes poetic distinctions. So part of But here it is different. Here everything Eyjabakkar is ready to be submerged by a that I am exploiting the moment as a last chance to is dilated, solemn and majestic, almost water reservoir: right here, right now. grave, overgrown in the red and green of the The flatlands extend unbroken south- see these places as they used to be, and will be no vegetation – because royalty does not tolerate wards in the distance. The only elevation in nudity. And silent, terribly silent – a silence the range is now Snæfell itself, which has more. I don’t really feel the coming doom as an incum- you can hear and listen to. All the lines in grown terribly close on my right, mysteriously the visual range – straight and regular – seem enveloped by the thick fog that has descended bent threat, but the consideration clearly affects my drawn according to geometries of Euclidean on the land. A reddish tonality dominates perfection. Parallel lines form stratified ter- at the chromatic level, but it is not given to sensations as I approach.” races that almost look man-made. shine in today’s dull weather. I have never It feels curious, but hardly accidental, learned to take swampy grounds into more how emotionally Sigur Rós have fought for serious account when making my route, and I flank the course of Jökla twice, first along of year) are coming to feel like a deterrent, the preservation of this region, when one the outcome is always the same – and mostly the east bank – starting down from Gamla- pushing me from carrying on any further, thinks of how perfectly their music and the an unpleasant – one: I end up walking in Jökulkvísl, the ancient springs that now lay though I will eventually be thankful for not surroundings appear to reflect each other. In soaking wet shoes. Great. Pink-footed geese north outside the glacier’s surface – and then giving up. As I re-descend the course of Jökla both, the sense of melancholy and nostalgia take flight in flocks. I can hear their call on the west side. The experience turns out along the west bank, heading south towards for something which is not here seems to above me, as my march becomes miserable totally different from my previous ones – and Kringilsárrani, a radical change takes place, shine through – something that, in this case, and faltering. not because of the change of perspective. It is and I am awarded the most unexpected reviv- soon will be no more. I reach the western flank of Snæfell, the sudden mutation in the weather condi- al of summer I’ve ever enjoyed: three days in where the welcoming hut is located, after a tions that affect my journey the most now. I a row of crystal-clear sky, terse visibility over Kringilsárrani walk at altitude through mist and drizzle. see my first reindeer this morning, as soon a range of 60 km, and warm sun. I am back The oasis of Kringilsárrani lies right beneath The thick veil of fog condemns me to an al- as I start walking, still slightly numb after to wearing my lightest clothing, something the glacier, protected as an island, encircled as most blind navigation for the whole day. The the night. The animal’s silver mantle flashed I thought wouldn’t happen again for the rest it is by the two impassable rivers of Jökla and hut’s seasonal opening is already over, and I swift and sudden like an apparition in the of the year. It remains terribly chilly at night, Kringilsá on the flanks, and Brúarjökull at can be only grateful that Ferðafélag Fljóts- impenetrable fog, merely a few metres away and every morning I have to cope with a thick the back. A preserved wilderness area, unique dalshéraðs (the local Touring Club, which from me. I did not even have time to think of layer of frost spread over my tent and the both for its fauna (besides the rich birdlife, built and runs the shelter) has agreed to leave putting hands on the camera. Such a sight, land. Packing a frozen tent proves particu- herds of reindeer freely roam here) and its a set of keys at my disposal. I have become so early in the day, felt like an omen. And in larly miserable, and even muddy or sandy soils geology (seldom will you appreciate so neatly seriously wet by now, and drying out my gear fact, shortly afterwards, the snow began to are turned hard as solid rock all the way until the millenarian action of the glacier in shap- will surely prove easier here than inside a tent. fall, slow and in big flakes at first. Rapidly noon. ing the land). Now Snæfell is entirely hidden in a it becomes a storm in every sense. I push my Over the last few days, the surroundings The approach to Kringilsárrani is a cloak of melancholy. The lesser elevations of way northwards now. An evil frontal wind have completely changed in shades. Light walk across Brúarjökull, and through a Sauðahnjúkur and Fitjahnjúkur occupy the makes it particularly difficult to keep my brown is now pervasive, while patches of vivid rather primitive but effective ropeway scarily scene in its stead. balance. The temperature must have dropped and deep red stain the slopes around me. suspended above the impetuous waters of the travel 41

river Kringilsá. It is a sort of rite of passage were appositely built to be an observation appalling. These areas used to host a highly From this vantage point, I take a last look introducing hikers here to a different world. post, the gaze embraces all the main summits diversified basin of life – machinery is going at the canyon carved by Jökulsá á Brú, wind- A couple of kilometres further along the river, of the Highlands: the Snæfell massif with all to cover it under a veil of non-existence. This ing southwards. It is my last chance to stare Töfrafoss (i.e. “the magic waterfall”) offers its peaks, to start with, and Kverkfjöll, like region used to represent a unique instance in at it as it is, before it will be buried under the itself up as a spectacle of immense power, a embedded in Vatnajökull, and Trölladyn- Icelandic landscape, a term of comparison surface of an artificial lake, but strangely I crowning twofold rainbow springing from the gja, Dyngjufjöll, all the way to Herðubreið, against which the country could define itself. am still spared that sense of imminence. The crashing waters. which usually looks like a Christmas-cake; Now its otherness will be denied, specificity main dam, the one erected on the western Hraukar appear as a stripe of tumuli today it appears like a crown. And yes, also erased in the total levelling of the geographi- side of the Kárahnjúkar mountain, is close covered in emerald green grass and sur- Kárahnjúkar in the north, the most recent cal spaces. Yes, it will be another fragment at hand now. A sheer and immense wall rounded by clear ponds. From here towards – and heretical – acquisition in this pantheon of difference rendered to the Moloch of obstructing the canyon – it almost gives me the Brúarjökull, a staggering and truly unique of celebrated mountains, the place where the oblivion, according to that perverse logic of a feeling of vertigo as I stare at it. And as it sequence of glacial moraines develops, giving doom of the whole region is engraved like a homologation and univocal thought, sadly stands beside there, idle and close, Kárahn- a strange impression of dynamism to the land. sentence into reinforced concrete. inherent to industrialism. júkar looks both succubus and accomplice, as And it is around Hraukar that more reindeer Part of Kringilsárrani – including Töf- someone who has made a deal with the devil start making their appearance. I count about rafoss – is going to be directly affected by Kárahnjúkar and is now victim – willing or not – to the a dozen in one day, but I never manage to get the flooding, and will be disappearing under When I finally get to the Kárahnjúkar camp, stipulations of an inescapable fate. closer to them than some 20 metres. water. And even though most of the area will on Monday, September 25th, I have eleven The waters of the river run exactly be- If Snæfell is the landmark and the patron not meet the same fate, it is hard to believe days and around 180 km of walk in the wild neath my post, waiting for the moment they of the whole region, Kringilsárrani definitely that the fragile ecosystem won’t suffer heavily behind me. will be definitively contained and accumu- represents its spiritual core. A reindeer coun- from the environmental changes all around. There is intense traffic and the activity lated. Already now, they look still. try, shamanic, hieratic – it seems infinitely Here in particular, the perspective of of cars, trucks, and Caterpillars is evident all vaster and higher than it actually is. As one such locations submerged under an artificial around. Noises come from every direction in Thanks to: stares at the snow-clad peaks all around, a su- lagoon gives the disturbing feeling of profa- the distance. The girl who sells me my coffee Ferðafélag Fljótsdalshéraðs (Tel. +354 863 perior sense of ascension and elevation comes nation of sacred ground. It is not the thought asks me, almost shocked, why on earth I 5813) for accommodation at the Snæfell Hut. to dominate, while the perception of space of lost and marred beauty that bothers me. bother to walk. I suppose that my motivations Campsite Egilsstaðir (Tel. +354 471 2320) for appears altered in the strong magical aura Landscapes change – often for the worse would not be understood, so I give it to her accommodation in Egilsstaðir. that pervades the surroundings. As I climb – for natural reasons as well as artificial. A plain and simple, “It is my job.” At least this Ljósmyndavörur (Tel. +354 568 0450) for high- one of the few hills near the glacier, just up to waterfall cannot be preserved in a museum. explanation does not elicit any objection. quality Fuji films. 700 m, the outlook over the horizon becomes Rather, in this place, it is the deliberate attack I find a lift. Someone will drive to breathtaking, even inspiring. As if the place on diversity and otherness that I find truly Egilsstaðir in half an hour.

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www.bluelagoon.com 42 travel

Outside Reykjavík Mývatn

Trolls and Bubbling Mud Pits The Grapevine visits Lake Mývatn

BY VIRGINIA ZECH PHOTOS BY SKARI

Tourists who come to Iceland for culture, glimpse of Mývatn. The lake is named for the partied all night, unfortunately all the way setbacks because of volcanic activity, since rather than nature, are likely to miss Lake plentiful black flies that swarm near its waters until sunrise, which of course turned them to 1977. The borehole stations, red “space igloos” Mývatn. Less than two hours’ drive from and feed the multitudinous birds who make stone, thus explaining the fantastic rock for- as my companion called, along with the plant Akureyri, there are no towns of notable size it their home. Luckily, this was a clear, damp mations seen here. I don’t know about trolls, and traversing pipelines make Krafla an right on the lake. While this may be per- day, and there were no flies to be seen. A light but I definitely saw a formation that looked interesting man-made alteration to the natural plexing at first, given Mývatn’s considerable drizzle accompanied my fellow tourists and exactly like a sheep. Ragnarsdóttir informed landscape. beauty as well as its annual tourist draw, it is me on our next nature walk around the pseudo us that later on, “people called scientists Leaving Krafla we made our final stop at explained by the fact that it is illegal to build craters that litter Mývatn’s shores and islands. came” to refute the original troll/sunlight the “other Blue Lagoon,” the Mývatn Nature homes adjacent to her shores. Avid birdwat- Pseudo craters can be concentric, with up explanation, but I would recommend going Baths. Similar in almost every respect to its chers will know the lake for the plentiful bird to four or even more craters sitting one within to Dimmuborgir with a sense of humour and Reykjanes area comparison, the Nature Bath species that live around her waters – Mývatn the next. They differ from other volcanic imagination to get the full experience. is smaller, less crowded, and feels altogether a is, in fact, Europe’s largest bird sanctuary. craters in that nothing is blown out of the Now heading further away from Mývatn, lot more like a lagoon than a tourist attrac- But even if birds aren’t your thing, a wealth vents, but on releasing steam from the ground we drove to Grjótagjá. Natural bathing caves tion. Like its counterpart, both locations are of natural beauty, as well as geological and they collapse inward on themselves. The at Grjótagjá are set in a chasm ripped into the famous for their beneficial effects on various man-made history, are to be found within only craters here are grassy and home to a number earth by volcanic activity and were long used skin conditions, psoriasis sufferers in parti- a few kilometres of Lake Mývatn. of sheep (which Ragnarsdóttir encouraged me by locals until an eruption in 1975 made the cular claim the mineral-filled waters alleviate Our trip began with an early morning to chase on hearing how much I have wanted waters too hot to bear. They are slowly cooling their symptoms. Suits and towels are available flight from Reykjavík to “the capital of the to pet them – I was mercifully stopped by my down again, but even without using the caves for bathers who happen by the Nature Baths North,” Akureyri. There we immediate- co-worker who informed me their speed defies for a bath, it is worth the climb down into the on their tours of the Mývatn area. ly boarded our homebase for the day – a the size of their legs). Despite the pastoral natural caverns to get a look at the steaming After our soak, my five companions and I minibus. Our tour was small, composed of setting found on many of Mývatn’s edges, evi- blue waters. The caves are just off the road- again loaded ourselves back into the minibus myself, our cameraman, a pair of newlyweds dence of recent volcanic activity is all around, side, but totally invisible to those unaware of and drove off at record speeds to Akureyri from Northern Ireland, a young man from looming sepulchral in the background. Hver- their existence. where we would catch our evening flight. Japan, and our driver and guide, Ragnheiður fjall, an enormous, black volcanic crater would From Grjótagjá we move on to Hverarönd. Landing in Reykjavík, I reflect that the scope Ragnarsdóttir. A native of the Akureyri area, dominate the horizon for much of the day’s Bubbling mud pits and abandoned sulphur of the geography available to Iceland’s tourists Ragnarsdóttir began the day by taking us on journey. boreholes make Hverarönd, as Ragnarsdóttir in the span of a day is almost incomprehen- a brief driving tour of the city. We were in- Following this walk we took a lunch break put it, a “warm and smelly” tourist attraction. sible. Returning to the capital only 12 hours formed that Akureyri is home to the 30-time in Reykjahlíð, a place in legendary for the The bubbling mud – a few dark grey, puls- after leaving her behind makes a journey into national hockey champs (in a nation with four volcanic activity that came in 1729. The tale ating pools that can reach 400°C – which lie wild nature, as well as a tour of metropolitan competing teams, but still impressive) as well goes that as the lava flowed towards the town, throughout the area, are best characterised by nightlife, easily attainable in 24 hours. Oh, as the Iceland’s winter sports association (the its people came together in the church and my companion’s remark, “So this is where the Iceland. local ski area is capable of carrying over 3,000 prayed that the lava would not overtake it. black paint is made.” As for the bo- people per hour up its slopes in wintertime). After praying for hours, and finding themsel- reholes, Germans originally drilled On leaving Akureyri our first stop is ves still alive, the townspeople vented outside them for sulphur before leaving Goðafoss, a double waterfall named for the where they saw that lava had bypassed the Iceland at the outbreak of WWII. THE BEST WAY TO pagan idols Þorgeir Ljósvetningagoði threw church building on not one, but both sides. In an example of “Scandinavian GET TO MÝVATN: into it after deciding at Alþingi that Iceland Regardless of your religious persuasions, it is cooperation,” as Ragnarsdóttir should convert to Christianity a millennium a startling sight. Reykjahlíð is also where we told us, after the war, Danes took AIR ICELAND OFFERS DAY-TRIPS FROM ago. Not as large as Gullfoss in the southwest, took our lunch break at the local hotel. They over sulphur excavation which REYKJAVÍK TO MÝVATN Goðafoss offers up clear aquamarine waters served my companion and me, respectively, they “exported from Iceland to in contrast to Gullfoss’s opaque glacial French fries and their special of traditional make gun powder, and sold it For more information, log on to runoff. Though the Grapevine’s acrophobic Icelandic lamb soup. to Norway, and the Norwegians www.airiceland.is cameraman did not seem enthusiastic about Getting back on the road we headed to used to shoot the Swedish.” AIR ICELAND PROVIDED TICKETS AND A STIPEND the various vantage points of the river fed by Dimmuborgir, a word that translates to En- Following what was, indeed, FOR THIS TRAVEL PIECE. Goðafoss on the short cliffside walk, I very glish as “dark castles.” As with many locations a smelly though interesting walk, much enjoyed taking the misty trail to the in Iceland, the geology here has a mythology we hopped back in the minibus nearby restaurant, which was our next depar- to accompany it. The story is that there was and drove up past the Krafla ture point. once a lonely troll whose friends paid him a power plant. The plant has From Goðafoss we drove on, to our first visit to cheer him up. The trolls danced and been operational, despite some Whales& WhalesPuffin Island Take part in an adventure at sea with an unforgettable 3-hour trip into the world of whales and sea birds. Located in Reykjavik's old harbour, only a 5 minute walk from the city centre. A spacious double-deck and a special viewing area on the third deck ensures a spectacular view into the deep blue sea. Puffin season April May June July Aug Sept Oct Call us on or visit 9:00 9:00 9:00 9:00 9:00 9:00 13:00 13:00 13:00 13:00 13:00 13:00 13:00 555 3565 www.elding.is 17:00 17:00 17:00

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Beware: Polar Bear May Bite Guns but no roses in Svalbard

BY IAN WATSON PHOTO BY IAN WATSON

I had never been on cruise ship in my life miner, drove us a few kilometres out of town can and do eat humans. small and broken, with more water than ice. before I spent three weeks last summer giving and up a hairpin road to the mine entrance. The most impressive building in town is We stood on deck looking down at the ice lectures on the North Atlantic aboard the We put on dusty mining suits and piled into a the brand-new university centre, which also as the ship bumped against one floe and the Prinsendam, a Dutch ship carrying mostly dilapidated minivan for a spooky five-minute houses the museum, bookshop and tourist next, kind of like pushing croutons around in North American passengers. I wasn’t paid ride deep into the mountain, following the ups office. The university centre is a cooperative a bowl of soup. for my work, but the trip was free, and I was and downs of the coal seam to the mine face. project of several mainland Norwegian uni- From Svalbard we sailed to Akureyri, allowed to bring along a guest. The other pas- Our guide let us see the huge machine that versities, not an independent institution. It has passing the mysterious island of Jan Mayen sengers were friendly, and I was scandalously chews at the mountain and showed us how to beautiful polished wood floors, and everyone on the second morning out. Long, skinny Jan overfed, eating piles of fresh pineapple every drive metre-long bolts into the ceiling to stop has to take off their shoes even to enter the Mayen belongs to Norway. It is home to a morning and nightly five-course dinners. But it from collapsing. Unlike coal layers in Ger- public spaces. I couldn’t resist buying a book huge glacier-capped volcano, called Beer- the high point of the cruise was getting to many or West Virginia, the seams on Svalbard on polar bears at the bookshop and another on enberg, and a weather station with 18 crew see two very special places in the high Arctic: are above ground – indeed, tens of metres Franz Josef Land. members, who have found that the island has Svalbard and Jan Mayen. above ground – so one goes up to them, not I once imagined Longyearbyen as a sort an average of four truly sunny days per year. The “capital” of Svalbard is Longyear- down. This also means they are easier to of arctic camp, with Nansen-like figures There is no harbour, so we couldn’t land. byen, not named after anything having to do ventilate, which is why we were able to drive stumbling out of tents with ice in their When I woke up and looked out the window, with its many weeks of summer daylight and a car into the seam. Half of Mine Number 7’s beards, smelling of polar-bear steak. In fact the ship was sailing through a giant fog-bank winter dark, but rather after an American coal production goes to the Longyearbyen power Longyearbyen reminded me very much of and I was afraid I wouldn’t see the island at mining entrepreneur named John M. Long- plant and the rest is exported to mainland certain Icelandic towns – say, Borgarnes or all. But the fog cleared during breakfast, we’d year who founded the town in 1906. Ap- Europe. Siglufjörður. One main difference is that it’s hit one of the four annual sunny days, and the proaching ships take the broad Isfjord in from Fewer than a dozen people still work in a town of transients who mostly live there for view of Beerenberg and the north coast of the the sea, make a right turn into the smaller mining in Longyearbyen, although quite a few only a few years – no one really has roots in island was great. Adventfjord, pass the airport and pull up at more commute in shifts over to the large coal Longyearbyen. And there aren’t any reindeer I have mixed feelings about the life of a the pier. The town stretches up from the shore mine in the nearby settlement of Sveagruva. wandering the streets in Borgarnes. cruise lecturer (at this stage in my life I prefer into a bleak, narrow valley between two high Longyearbyen is reinventing itself as a tour- Before stopping in Longyearbyen, to work for money instead of free time). But I mountains. A single street of shops and pubs ism and education centre. I had a small-world our ship sailed under bright sunshine into can recommend Svalbard and (if you can ever gives way to brightly coloured wooden houses. moment when one of the other mine tour Magdalenafjord at Svalbard’s northwestern get there) Jan Mayen. Svalbard is easy enough Disused mine tramway towers sprout from the participants turned out to be an acquaintance tip, as well as Hornsund in southern Sval- to reach, with frequent flights from Oslo and mountain slopes like bare raspberry canes in from Reykjavík, who had just spent seven days bard. Both fjords had fine glaciers and craggy Tromsø, many ships going there each summer, winter. At the upper end of town is a cemetery circumnavigating Svalbard on a small cruise peaks, and Hornsund has a small Polish-run and lots of things to do (see www.svalbard. where victims of the Spanish flu lie alongside ship, the Polar Star. She said she’d seen 30 scientific research station. We also sailed up net, where I reserved the mine tour). As for one of the Norwegians killed in the German polar bears. We met two middle-aged Danish past 80° north to the edge of the polar ice cap. Jan Mayen, Icelanders have known about it bombardment of Svalbard in 1943. women in front of the shop, newly in from a I thought we’d see giant icebergs, like the since the year 1194 without ever finding an The highlight of our visit to Longyearby- trekking tour, broad smiles on their faces and Antarctic ice sheets, but the polar ice cap is excuse to spend much time there. Unless you en was a trip to Mine Number 7, the youngest their rifles still strapped to their back. Anyone made of thin, flat floes formed from frozen speak Norwegian and can swing yourself a of the island’s coal mines and the only one who leaves settled areas must carry a rifle and sea surface which extend just inches above job at the weather station, you’ll have to be that is still producing. Our guide, a former know how to use it, as Svalbard’s polar bears and below the water. At its edge, the floes are content with a sail-by. SUHVHQWV

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Available at your nearest bookstore 46 interview Guantánamo Detainees Released Into Captivity The Grapevine conducts an interview during visiting hours

BY VIRGINIA ZECH PHOTO BY SKARI

After three years in military think it was appropriate to have bands it was a totally different story. captivity, Rhuhel Ahmed and those kinds of scenes in the film. They wouldn’t laugh about things. Asif Iqbal are touring the globe to They would be serious. present Michael Winterbottom’s /// What impact do you think documentary film, The Road to these decisions had on the film as /// You’ve said that it is necessary Guantánamo. It tells the story of a whole? to ‘forget your family’ and accept these young men’s terrifying and Asif – The film’s still powerful. It the reality of your imprisonment unlikely journey from England to just doesn’t have what we didn’t to stay sane. How was it to be sud- Pakistan, Afghanistan, and U.S. want in there. denly reunited? detention sites in Guantánamo Bay, Rhuhel – It was difficult. You were Cuba. As guests of the Reykjavík /// There are some funny moments back at home, in your own bedroom International Film Festival, where in the film that arise from the now. And you’ve got other relatives the film is being screened, Ahmed absurdity of situations you faced. with you. You have to share [space] and Iqbal were able to sit down with How did you maintain your sense again. In prison it’s just you in your the Grapevine – barely – before be- of humour? cell in your bed. There’s no Mom, ing shuttled to another event, din- Rhuhel – It’s just the way we are. no Dad, no sisters, no brothers. You ner, a panel discussion, another film Since we were younger we’ve always have no responsibilities. You don’t screening and yet another Q & A. had a great sense of humour. Even if need to go out and buy bread, buy /// Are you pursuing legal action /// What should people be doing to we were badly treated, anything we the milk, or pay the bills. You’re in against England, as is pending stop situations like Guantánamo? /// We’ll start with the obvious found funny we just laughed. It was prison – that’s it. against America? Asif – Campaigning against what’s – what’s your current take on easier to get through if you laugh Asif – No contact with anyone. Rhuhel – We can’t pursue any in happening. Everyone looks at America? about some things, rather than be Rhuhel – You can’t touch anybody. England because Guantánamo America [to] give freedom to the Rhuhel – We don’t hate the Ameri- serious and take everything to heart. And all the sudden you’re back was opened by Americans. It has rest of the world, [as] the main can people. [They] have nothing to If you make a joke out of something home and your mom’s talking to you nothing to do with England. They democratic state, but what they’re do with Guantánamo. They were you move on. and your dad’s talking you and they might have had a part to play behind doing is completely against human not the ones who decided to open want to touch you. They want to the scenes. But up front it was all rights. If they’re doing it, [then] it’s Guantánamo and lock people away /// Is this common among prison- hug you. It’s odd. It felt abnormal. American-run. It was the American open season for everyone else to do indefinitely. It was the government. ers? To get back and reintegrate into army, George Bush and his admin- it. We know China tortures people, So, we don’t like Bush and we don’t Rhuhel – No, I wouldn’t say it’s society again – it’s really difficult. istration. The British just went to but America is always telling eve- like the administration either, or the common among prisoners. There interrogate detainees and you can’t ryone else off [for torture]. They’re U.S. army. were three of us and we were child- /// The English government really take them to court for that. basically hypocrites… There’s an hood friends. If something hap- essentially abandoned you in Amnesty postcard campaign, if peo- /// You chose to leave certain ele- pened to him I would laugh, [and Guantánamo; is it difficult to feel /// Besides the film, what are you ple would just sign them and send ments of your experience out of the vice versa]. But not everybody’s the at home there? currently doing on behalf of hu- them to Mr. Bush. film. Why? same. We were young. We have Rhuhel – No, that’s our home. We man rights? Rhuhel – That was because our family, but we don’t have wives or were born there, grew up there, Asif – We’ve been working with At that point, a tall man came in and parents were going to watch the sons or daughters, so we didn’t have went to school there. Everything Amnesty in different countries barked that the time was up. They film. Our family – sisters, brothers that worry. We didn’t have anyone we know is back in England. What [and] back home. We’re trying to have a rigorous schedule to keep, and – we didn’t want them to know what else to care for. That’s why we had the government did, that’s just poli- get Camp X-Ray closed and stop free time is limited. exactly happened to us and other a bit of a laugh in prison. For those tics. We were just pawns. torture, because torture doesn’t detainees. For that reason we didn’t people who were fathers and hus- work. >iXg\m`e\8[@e[\o Classifieds Accomodation O Sushi 30 Grundarfjörður Hostel 46 Rósenberg 26 HVa`VH@haZZe^c\WV\VXX# Transportation '%%%>H@# 8dd`^c\[VX^a^i^ZhVkV^aVWaZ Galleries and Museum Air Iceland 47 Gljúfrasteinn, Halldór Laxness Museu 27 Budget-Car rental 35 Reykjavík Art Museum 43 Hertz-Car Rental 47 [email protected] :hXVeZ[gdbl^ciZgXdaYVcY Settlement Museum 33 Sixt Car Rental 17 hcdlid;adg^YV»hlVgbi]VcY www.hostel.is hjch]^cZ +354-5626533 Restaurants, Bars and Cafés Other AdkZan'7G#$'7#]dbZdci]ZHVgVhdiV$ +354-8956533 2 Fiskar 24 Icelandic Dance Company 16 7gVYZcidc

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“A slide is important, as is hot water. My priorities, when swimming, are having hot water and a big slide.” Musician Will Oldham reveals the secrets to a good recording session. Page 18.

“It is clear we need to adjust to a new world and changed situations and one angle to do so is to look at the Icelan- dic music scene seriously, invest in it and emphasise creating a field for that in- dustry to grow.” Bryndís Ísfold Hlöðversdóttir, candidate in the Social Democrats Primaries on her political agenda. Page 10.

“It probably helped that I wasn’t a particular fan of hers, although that would change as I got to know her.” Recordist Valgeir Sigurðusson, on work- ing with Björk. Page 16.

“Everyone knows what it means in English when a girl writes you a “Dear John.” That is a different kind of a termination letter. “ Róbert Marshall writes letters. Page 6.

“If Snæfell is the landmark and the patron of the whole region, Kringilsárrani defi- nitely represents its spiritual core. A reindeer country, shamanic, hieratic – it seems infinitely vaster and higher than it actually is.” Fabrizio Frascaroli goes to Kárahnjúkar. Page 39.

“By the number of artists The only guide that tells you the talk of the swimming pools, how to taking part in the festival, it is clear that the need for find the best cafes, how to recover from all night parties, an A to Z of expression and creation is Icelandic music and what "Viltu kaffi?" can really mean. strong in local as well as international art culture to- day.” Steinunn Jakobsdóttir examines the Travel Guides Can Be Honest. Really Sequences Art Festival. Page 14. Available at your nearest bookstore

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