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Eating Dinner, Writing Culture: the Unique Communicative Power of Food and Travel Journalism

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Eating Dinner, Writing Culture: the Unique Communicative Power of Food and Travel Journalism Eating Dinner, Writing Culture: The Unique Communicative Power of Food and Travel Journalism by Robert McKeown A thesis submitted to the Faculty of Graduate Studies and Postdoctoral Affairs in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of: Master of Journalism in School of Journalism and Communication Carleton University Ottawa, Ontario © 2016 Robert McKeown Abstract By examining a body of articles about the food of Thailand, this thesis argues that food and travel journalism represents a unique strain of the craft in the way it regularly and positively engages with other cultures. Discussing texts from magazines like Saveur and celebrated publications like The New York Times, this thesis attempts to show that the editorial coverage of food culture demands an approach that is distinct from more traditional topics like politics and hard news. From engaging with multiple senses at once to the intensely personal nature of eating, food and travel journalists have the rare opportunity to provide insight into the various tastes of cultural Others in a way that is both powerful and positive in its ability to emotionally connect with their readers. Through content and framing analysis of the aforementioned publications and ethnographies of celebrated Thai restaurants, this thesis argues that as experiences surrounding Thai food are textualized, journalists thus create an arena that is at once practical (for the knowledge of readers and audiences) and symbolic in its ability to represent not just a single meal, but an entire culture as well. Acknowledgements Beginning, well, at the beginning, much is owed to Professors Susan Harada and Chris Dornan for giving me the chance to come to Carleton for my Master’s. The school’s combination of commitment to excellence and personal attention to students really helped me focus, get inspired, and begin to achieve my academic goals. My Canadian family and my Dad, whose generosity in time and car seat space also helped make this possible. I always knew I’d return to Canada and my experience the last year in Ottawa only went to show the decision was the right one. To that end, an extended Chelsea family thank you to Jess Milton and Josh Kilberg, for the initial inspiration for my graduate (and soon Doctoral) study and the many wonderful meals, e-mails, and conversations that their friendship gifted me. To my dear Mom, without whom none of this would be possible and who has always shown me strength, grace, and unconditional love in her actions, her words, and her knowing and supporting silences. Beyond her, my American family the Scanlons of Florida and North Carolina and my brother Alex, whose belief and dedication was unwavering in the beginning of what I hope will be a lifelong process of culture, food, and communication. Last, but not least, the small but steadfast support system from Asia and the food world – JB, RC, EMR, IG – from whom I’ve learned how to succeed, but also fail and learn to succeed all over again. iii Finally, my advisor Professor Chris Waddell. He took me in quickly and showed me belief in my pursuit of a new (-ish) area of journalism scholarship, an ease of intellectual application and a talent for quick transitions between disciplines. His easygoing yet pointed approach to scholarship is the reason why no doubt so many more will follow in my footsteps, achieving more than they thought and illuminating just how much is possible in the years to come. My academic foundation will forever bear his name. iv Table of Contents Abstract............................................................................................................................. ii Acknowledgements...................................................................................................iii-iv Table of Contents ........................................................................................................v-vi List of Tables .................................................................................................................. vii Chapter 1: Introduction................................................................................................ 1 1.1 Object of Study ...................................................................................................................... 2 1.2 Proposed Methodology .......................................................................................................... 4 1.3 Research Questions................................................................................................................ 6 1.4 Theoretical Overview............................................................................................................. 7 Chapter 2: Literature Review.......................................................................................... 9 2.1 The Greater Context of Food ................................................................................................. 9 2.2 Theory with a Capital T: Globalization ............................................................................... 12 2.3 Representation, Power, and (Culinary) Others .................................................................... 16 2.4 Changing Notions of Ethnography, Travel, and Culture ..................................................... 19 2.5 Theories of Tourism and Travel .......................................................................................... 25 2.6 Media as a Means of Transmission...................................................................................... 29 2.7 Food, Texts, and Media in a Cultural Role.......................................................................... 36 2.8 Food, Language, and the Role of Art and Craft................................................................... 40 2.9 Approaches in Methodology and Content Analysis ............................................................ 46 Chapter 3: Methodology................................................................................................. 51 3.1 Introduction.......................................................................................................................... 51 3.2 Objects of Study and Research Questions ........................................................................... 54 3.3 Objectives of Methodology.................................................................................................. 56 v 3.4 Structure of Methodology ................................................................................................... 57 3.5 Quantitative and Keyword Analysis Results and Tables…………………………………..62 Chapter 4: Findings and Context……………………………………………………...69 4.1 Saveur Magazine:Thai Food, Culture, and Travel Articles................................................. 69 4.2 Eat, Read Compare - San Francisco's Kin Khao and Bangkok's Nahm .............................. 71 4.3 Controlled Coverage - The New York Times and Thailand in News and Taste................... 73 Chapter 5: Discussion Part 1 ......................................................................................... 75 5.1 Tasting Local, Cooking Global: Thai Street Food and Traditions in Saveur Magazine...... 75 Chapter 6: Discussion Part 2 ......................................................................................... 87 6.1 Thai Restaurants: A Comparative Analysis......................................................................... 87 6.2 Thai Cooking 'Far': Kin Khao in San Francisco .................................................................. 95 6.3 Thai Cooking 'Near': Nahm in Bangkok.............................................................................. 99 6.4 Relational Cuisine - In Authenticity and Chefs We Trust ................................................. 103 Chapter 7: Discussion Part 3 ....................................................................................... 107 7.1 General Notes on Thai Food Talk...................................................................................... 107 Chapter 8: Conclusion.................................................................................................. 117 8.1 Towards a Set of Normative Practises for Food and Travel Journalism .......................... 125 Bibliography .................................................................................................................. 129 vi List of Tables Table 1 Saveur Magazine Corpus (2007-2015) ………………………………………67 Table 2 Nahm and Kin Khao Comparison Corpus …………………………………...67 Table 3 New York Times Comparison Corpus (2015)………………………………….68 vii Chapter 1 : In troduction The food of Thailand, as some might put it conversationally, is having a moment right now. It is trending in cities of all sizes in No rth America, as well as Asian financial hubs like Hong Ko n g and Singapore, where waves of openings advertising ‘regional’ or ‘modern’ Thai cuisine are scorching a chili-hot path to renown. The revered Michelin Guide - the fire-engine red and religiously followed source of valourization for restaurants worldwide - has awarded its much sought after ‘stars’ to several small, casual Thai eateries in cities like San Fra n c isc o , Cope nha ge n, and Ne w York, whose marketing plans boast of authenticity and regional ta ste. Eve n Bangkok, once a hospitality laggard, is birthing new restaurants celebrating its national cuisine with some ranking in the top few dozen spots in the foodie-beloved San Pellegrino’s World’s 100 Best Resta u ra nts
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