Rice, the Grain of Culture

RICE, THE GRAIN OF CULTURE Presented by Dr. Kwanchai A. Gomez, Board Member and Secretary of the Thai Rice Foundation, at the Siam Society Lecture Series, The Siam Society, Bangkok, Thailand, 20 September 2001. Introduction For more than half of humanity, rice is life. It is the grain that has shaped the history, culture, diet, and economy of billions of people of Asia. Many of them sleep on rice straw, drink rice liquor and offer rice to their gods. The growth stage of the rice crop marks the passage of time and season. In the languages of China, Japan and many others, the day begins with "morning rice" and ends with "evening rice." In this part of the world, rice is not just a cereal; it is the root of civilization. In Thailand, rice is the essence of life. It permeates all aspects of the life of people from all walks of life. Rice is in music, particularly folk songs. It is in various forms of the arts – from poems to paintings to sculptures. It is in tradition, folklore, ritual and even language. For most of us, life without rice is simply unthinkable. Yet rice is almost always taken for granted. As societies become more affluent, they are becoming less attached to rice. The rich rice cultural heritage is fast disappearing, and we need to do something before there is nothing left to preserve. This paper discusses some of the more significant aspects of the rice culture of Thailand, and describes some projects of the Thai Rice Foundation that is designed to preserve this rich rice cultural heritage. Rice, an Ancient Crop From archeological evidence, based on the print of the paddy (unmilled rice) in the ancient bricks discovered from Ampur Non Nok Tha in Korn Kaen Province, rice has been planted before 5,500 years ago (around 2960 b.c.). This is even earlier than in China (around 2737 b.c.) and in India (around 1957 b.c.). Furthermore, drawings of ancient people at Pha Taem in Ubon Rajathanee province that date back to 6,000 years ago show rice planting, water conservation, and various types of foods produced in a rice farm such as fish, prawn, crab, and some domesticated animals such as cow, buffalo and chicken. Since then, rice cultivation has spread all over the world. Rice grows happily in tiny fields along the Khyber Pass, beside Lake Balaton in Hungary, and along the Murrumbidgee River in New South Wales. And with all that rain, the plains of Spain turn out mucho arroz, the basis of that famous rice dish, paella. But, on the world scale, these are the exotic rice harvests, destined to be made into rice puddings, or thrown for luck at weddings, "a custom," says the encyclopedia, "clearly of Eastern origin." Of everyday, run-of-the-mill rice, ninety percent of the world's crop is grown in Asia. Over the centuries, rice has shaped the landscape, culture and character of the Asian peoples. Look behind the sweeping beauty of the terraces of Bali and Banaue and you 2 will find societies whose customs and rituals are inextricably tied to the rice they grow. Wherever the crop has been planted, festivals, traditions, rituals, and languages celebrate its importance. Even for those for whom rice is an everyday sight, something magical – more like spiritual -- still radiates from the depths of the green fields. Thais, thought to be the world’s first rice cultivators, carried rice with them wherever they went during their early migrations throughout Southeast Asia, South Asia, and China. In fact their sole concern, when choosing land on which to settle, appears to have been whether or not there was enough water to plant rice. The vast river valleys and deltas, known today as Thailand, suited this purpose so well that the Thais finally organized themselves into a single nation here nearly a thousand years ago. Established by a people who seem to have a spiritual connection with the grain, Thailand seemed destined to become the rice bowl of Asia. Thailand has led the world in rice exports since the 1960s, and the quality of Thai rice, according to the perception of many discerning Asians, is considered the best in the world. Rice Rituals Rice is the only crop that Thai farmers arranges to give 'blessings' at every stages of its life, from planting to harvesting. It is done to boost morale and reduce worries, with the hope that the produce will be abundant and will ultimately bring joy, happiness and stability to the farmers, their families and the community as a whole. Thus, the various rituals of rice are closely related to both the communal way of life and their religious beliefs. They emphasize the need to live together in harmony and to be mutually supportive. In addition, such rituals also play an important role on the village economy that involves rice production, distribution and exchange. Some examples are the following: · Rituals for rain making. They aim at requesting the power that be to bless the lives of the farmers so that they be free from harm and/or calamities and achieve prosperity throughout the year, and more specifically to ask for rains before they prepare the land for planting and also throughout the crop season. Varying forms of the Rain-Pleading Ceremony are practiced in the northeast, primarily because it is a rain-fed rice area (i.e., nonirrigated area). In the north, the rituals are more for giving offerings to the Water Spirit, who protects water sources, so there will be enough water throughout the cultivating season. This ceremony is a chance for all farmers who depend on the same water source to get together and discuss the work before their operation starts. 3 · Rituals for protecting the rice crop. These rituals mark the end of transplanting. They give offerings to ancestral and wandering spirits to ask them to protect and nurture the rice crop towards a plentiful harvest. They also pay homage to Mae Posop, the Rice Mother, to gain protection of the rice fields throughout the whole season. · Rituals for bountiful harvest. This is done to show respect to 'rice' in order that the harvest will be abundant and so that both farmers and their animals will be free from harm during the harvesting process. The rite is also a thanksgiving ceremony to Mae Posop, as well as an apology if she was disturbed during plowing, planting and harvesting. In some cases, it also celebrates the completion of all the hard work for the current crop and to wish for a plentiful harvest in the next crop. Rice Goddesses In most rice-growing countries of Asia, the spirit of rice resides in the Rice Mother or the Rice Goddess. In Indonesia, Dewi Sri is the rice mother and goddess of life and fertility. She is the best loved and most worshipped Hindu deity. She is everywhere, from everyday rituals -- such as putting pinches of rice along the edges of fields to keep evil spirits and animals at bay -- to grand temple celebrations with elaborate offerings of dyed rice paste, the Balinese fervently honor their Rice Mother. In Thailand, the Rice Goddess is Mae Posop. Mae Posop and the Balinese Rice Goddess, Dewi Sri, are treated in similar ways -- respectful and protective. Just as mothers give food and milk to their children, so Mae Posop gives her body and soul to everyone. The birth and life of Mae Posop appear in the legend and folklore of all regions of the country. There is evidence indicating that the image of Mae Posop was designed at least 700-800 years ago, although that has essentially remained unchanged until today. From the way Mae Posop is portrayed (the way she sits and the way she dresses, for example), it is generally believed that she is a local goddess in contrast to most others that were taken from India. The thing that is interesting about Mae Posop, both in terms of art and her dominance as the rice goddess, is the way she is presented in all paintings and statues: that is Mae Posop always hold a rice shaft or several rice shafts in her hand. Mae Posop is the goddess who is the protector of rice. Thai people, since ancient times, believe that rice is important for their survival. Farmers in particular will hold various rituals that demonstrate their deep respect and gratitude to Mae Posop, at varying stages through out the growing season, from land preparation to panicle initiation to harvesting. They believe that that would bring them prosperity and wealth. 4 Whoever tills and cultivates the soil ought to worship the Rice Mother, for she will endow him/her with health and wealth. Whoever does not worship her will suffer as a consequence. He will be emaciated by hunger and sickness, and harassed by poverty. A man who is careful, whether in reaping, threshing or pounding paddy, and does not allow any grains to be scattered over the ground, will be happy and wealthy. If no care is taken and the paddy is allowed to be trodden over or disturbed by animals, or left over in a damp place, the Mother will be angry and leave the careless owner. That person will then be unlucky in his occupation. At the panicle initiation stage, which is considered to be equivalent to Mae Posop being pregnant, offerings of bitter fruits (limes and lemons) and mirror are made. It is believed that the pregnant Rice Goddess craves bitter fruits and, as she is at the peak of her beauty, she would enjoy admiring herself in a mirror.

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