The Best of Oregon

05_763888 ch01.qxp 3/23/06 9:03 PM Page 4 1 The Best of Oregon You’ve probably already heard the jokes: Oregonians have webbed feet and they don’t tan, they rust. Even people otherwise unfamiliar with Oregon seem to know that it rains a lot here. There’s simply no getting around the fact that few states receive as much rain or cloudy weather as Oregon (except Washington, Oregon’s northern neighbor). However, Oregon’s rainfall no longer seems to have the effect it once did. Sure, it still keeps the landscape green, but it’s no longer keeping people from moving here. Once, Oregon was the promised land of 19th-century pioneers, and today, it is an amalgam of American life and landscapes. Within its boundaries, the state reflects a part of almost every region of the country. Take a bit of New England’s rural beauty, its covered bridges, and its steepled churches. Temper the climate with that of the upper South to avoid harsh winters. Now bring in some low, rolling mountains such as the Appalachians; rugged, glaciated mountains such as the Rockies; and Hawaiian- style volcanoes and lava fields. Add a river as large and important as the Mississippi— complete with paddle wheelers—and a coastline as rugged as California’s. Of course, there would have to be sagebrush and cowboys and Indians. You could even throw in the deserts of the Southwest and the wheat fields of the Midwest. A little wine country would be a nice touch, and so would some long, sandy beaches. Finally, you’ll need a beautiful city, one whose downtown skyscrapers are framed by high, forested hills and whose gardens are full of roses. To explore such a diverse state takes quite a bit of planning, and knowing ahead of time the best that the state has to offer can make a visit much more enjoyable. After traveling the length and breadth of the state, I’ve chosen what I feel are the very best attractions, activities, lodgings, and restaurants. These are the places and experiences you won’t want to miss. Most are described in more detail elsewhere in this book, but this chapter will give you an overview and get you started. 1 The Best Natural Attractions • The Oregon Coast: Rocky head- up to 1,200 feet deep, the Columbia lands, offshoreCOPYRIGHTED islands and haystack Gorge MATERIAL is a unique feature of the Ore- rocks, natural arches, caves full of sea gon landscape. Waterfalls by the lions, giant sand dunes, and dozens of dozen cascade from the basalt cliffs of state parks make this one of the most the gorge, and highways on both the spectacular coastlines in the country. Washington and the Oregon sides of The only drawback is that the water is the Columbia River provide count- too cold for swimming. See chapter 7. less memorable views. See p. 234. • Columbia Gorge National Scenic • Mount Hood: As Oregon’s tallest Area: Carved by ice-age floodwaters mountain and the closest Cascade 05_763888 ch01.qxp 3/23/06 9:03 PM Page 5 THE BEST OUTDOOR ACTIVITIES 5 peak to Portland, Mount Hood is a central Cascades region, from the lava recreational mecca par excellence. fields of McKenzie Pass to the obsid- Hiking trails, lakes and rivers, and ian flows of Newberry National year-round skiing make this one of Volcanic Monument, you’ll find dra- the most appealing natural attrac- matic examples of the volcanic activ- tions in the state. See p. 254. ity that gave rise to the Cascade • Crater Lake National Park: At 1,932 Range. See chapters 9 and 11. feet deep, Crater Lake is the deepest • Hells Canyon: Deeper than the lake in the United States, and its sap- Grand Canyon, this massive gorge phire-blue waters are a bewitchingly along the Oregon-Idaho border is beautiful sight when seen from the remote and inaccessible, and that is rim of the volcanic caldera that forms just what makes it fascinating. You the lake. See p. 269. can gaze down into it from on high, • Central Oregon Lava Lands: float its waters, or hike its trails. See Throughout central Oregon and the p. 344. 2 The Best Outdoor Activities • Biking the Oregon Coast: With Meandering through remote wilder- U.S. 101 clinging to the edge of the ness in the southern part of the state, continent for much of its route this river has been popular with through Oregon, this road has anglers since early in the 20th cen- become one of the most popular tury and attracted Zane Grey with its cycling routes in the Northwest. The beauty and great fishing. Today, you entire coast can be done in about a can splash through roaring white week, but there are also plenty of water by day and spend your nights short sections that make good day in remote lodges that are inaccessible trips. See p. 172. by car. See p. 267. • Windsurfing at Hood River: Winds • Mountain Biking in Bend: Outside blast through the Columbia Gorge the town of Bend, in central Oregon, and whip up white-capped standing dry ponderosa pine forests are laced waves, and they have turned this with trails that are open to mountain area into the windsurfing capital of bikes. Routes pass by several lakes, the United States, attracting wind- and along the way you’ll get great surfers from around the world. See views of the Three Sisters, Broken p. 241. Top, and Mount Bachelor. See p. 321. • Fly-Fishing for Steelhead on the • Skiing Mount Bachelor: With ski North Umpqua River: Made famous slopes dropping off the very summit by Zane Grey, the North Umpqua is of this extinct volcano, Mount Bach- the quintessential steelhead river, and elor ski area, in central Oregon, is the for part of its length it’s open to fly- state’s premier ski area. Seemingly fishing only. The river and the elusive endless runs of all levels of ability steelhead offer a legendary fishing make this a magnet for skiers and experience. See p. 267. snowboarders from around the state, • Rafting the Rogue River: Of all the and lots of high-speed quad chairs state’s white-water-rafting rivers, keep people on the snow instead of none is more famous than the Rogue. standing in line. See p. 319. 05_763888 ch01.qxp 3/23/06 9:03 PM Page 6 6 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF OREGON 3 The Best Beaches See chapter 7 for details on the beaches here get a little bit warmer than listed below. unprotected waters elsewhere on the • Cannon Beach/Ecola State Park: coast, so it’s sometimes possible to With the massive monolith of actually go swimming. See p. 216. Haystack Rock rising up from the • Bandon: It’s difficult to imagine a low-tide line and the secluded more picturesque stretch of coastline beaches of Ecola State Park just north than the beach in Bandon. Haystack of town, Cannon Beach offers all the rocks rise up from sand and sea as if best of the Oregon coast. See p. 175. strewn there by some giant hand. • Oswald West State Park: At this Motels and houses front this scenic state park south of Cannon Beach, it’s beach, which ensures its popularity no a 15-minute walk through the woods matter what the weather. See p. 219. to the beach, which keeps the sand • The Beaches of Samuel H. Board- from ever getting too crowded. The man State Scenic Corridor: Some of crescent-shaped beach is on a the prettiest, most secluded, and least secluded cove backed by dense forest. visited beaches on the Oregon coast This also happens to be a popular are within this remote south-coast surfing spot. See p. 176. state park. Ringed by rocky head- • Sunset Bay State Park: Almost com- lands, the many little crescents of sand pletely surrounded by sandstone in this park provide an opportunity to cliffs, this little beach near Coos Bay find the perfect beach. See p. 228. is on a shallow cove. The clear waters 4 The Best Hikes • Cape Lookout Trail: Leading 2.5 passes two spectacular waterfalls in miles through dense forests to the tip the first 2 miles. Along the way, the of this rugged cape on the north Ore- trail climbs up the steep gorge walls, gon coast, this trail ends high on a and in places it is cut right into the cliff above the waters of the Pacific. basalt cliffs. See p. 237. Far below, gray whales can often be • Timberline Trail: As the name seen lolling in the waves, and the implies, this trail starts at the timber- view to the south takes in miles of line, high on the slopes of Mount coastline. See p. 186. Hood. Because the route circles Mount • John Dellenback Dunes Trail: If Hood, you can start in either direction you’ve ever dreamed of joining the and make a day, overnight, or multiday French Foreign Legion or simply hike of it. Paradise Park, its meadows want to play at being Lawrence of ablaze with wildflowers in July and Arabia, then the Oregon Dunes August, is a favorite for both day hikes National Recreation Area is the place and overnight trips. See p. 256. for you. Within this vast expanse of • McKenzie River Trail to Tamolitch sand dunes, you’ll find the highest Pool: The McKenzie River Trail dunes on the Oregon coast—some stretches for 26 miles along the banks 500 feet tall. See p.

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