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1 The Best of

You’ve probably already heard the jokes: Oregonians have webbed feet and they don’t tan, they rust. Even people otherwise unfamiliar with Oregon seem to know that it rains a lot here. There’s simply no getting around the fact that few states receive as much rain or cloudy weather as Oregon (except Washington, Oregon’s northern neighbor). However, Oregon’s rainfall no longer seems to have the effect it once did. Sure, it still keeps the landscape green, but it’s no longer keeping people from moving here. Once, Oregon was the promised land of 19th-century pioneers, and today, it is an amalgam of American life and landscapes. Within its boundaries, the state reflects a part of almost every region of the country. Take a bit of New England’s rural beauty, its covered bridges, and its steepled churches. Temper the climate with that of the upper South to avoid harsh winters. Now bring in some low, rolling mountains such as the Appalachians; rugged, glaciated mountains such as the Rockies; and Hawaiian- style volcanoes and lava fields. Add a river as large and important as the Mississippi— complete with paddle wheelers—and a coastline as rugged as California’s. Of course, there would have to be sagebrush and cowboys and Indians. You could even throw in the deserts of the Southwest and the wheat fields of the Midwest. A little wine coun- try would be a nice touch, and so would some long, sandy beaches. Finally, you’ll need a beautiful city, one whose downtown skyscrapers are framed by high, forested hills and whose gardens are full of roses. To explore such a diverse state takes quite a bit of planning, and knowing ahead of time the best that the state has to offer can make a visit much more enjoyable. After traveling the length and breadth of the state, I’ve chosen what I feel are the very best attractions, activities, lodgings, and restaurants. These are the places and experiences you won’t want to miss. Most are described in more detail elsewhere in this book, but this chapter will give you an overview and get you started.

1 The Best Natural Attractions • The Oregon Coast: Rocky head- up to 1,200 feet deep, the Columbia lands, offshoreCOPYRIGHTED islands and haystack Gorge MATERIAL is a unique feature of the Ore- rocks, natural arches, caves full of sea gon landscape. Waterfalls by the lions, giant sand dunes, and dozens of dozen cascade from the basalt cliffs of state parks make this one of the most the gorge, and highways on both the spectacular coastlines in the country. Washington and the Oregon sides of The only drawback is that the water is the Columbia River provide count- too cold for swimming. See chapter 7. less memorable views. See p. 234. • Columbia Gorge National Scenic • : As Oregon’s tallest Area: Carved by ice-age floodwaters mountain and the closest Cascade 05_763888 ch01.qxp 3/23/06 9:03 PM Page 5

THE BEST OUTDOOR ACTIVITIES 5 peak to Portland, Mount Hood is a central Cascades region, from the lava recreational mecca par excellence. fields of McKenzie Pass to the obsid- Hiking trails, lakes and rivers, and ian flows of Newberry National year-round skiing make this one of Volcanic Monument, you’ll find dra- the most appealing natural attrac- matic examples of the volcanic activ- tions in the state. See p. 254. ity that gave rise to the Cascade • Crater Lake National Park: At 1,932 Range. See chapters 9 and 11. feet deep, Crater Lake is the deepest • Hells Canyon: Deeper than the lake in the , and its sap- Grand Canyon, this massive gorge phire-blue waters are a bewitchingly along the Oregon-Idaho border is beautiful sight when seen from the remote and inaccessible, and that is rim of the volcanic caldera that forms just what makes it fascinating. You the lake. See p. 269. can gaze down into it from on high, • Lava Lands: float its waters, or hike its trails. See Throughout central Oregon and the p. 344.

2 The Best Outdoor Activities • Biking the Oregon Coast: With Meandering through remote wilder- U.S. 101 clinging to the edge of the ness in the southern part of the state, continent for much of its route this river has been popular with through Oregon, this road has anglers since early in the 20th cen- become one of the most popular tury and attracted Zane Grey with its cycling routes in the Northwest. The beauty and great fishing. Today, you entire coast can be done in about a can splash through roaring white week, but there are also plenty of water by day and spend your nights short sections that make good day in remote lodges that are inaccessible trips. See p. 172. by car. See p. 267. • Windsurfing at Hood River: Winds • Mountain Biking in Bend: Outside blast through the Columbia Gorge the town of Bend, in central Oregon, and whip up white-capped standing dry ponderosa pine forests are laced waves, and they have turned this with trails that are open to mountain area into the windsurfing capital of bikes. Routes pass by several lakes, the United States, attracting wind- and along the way you’ll get great surfers from around the world. See views of the Three Sisters, Broken p. 241. Top, and . See p. 321. • Fly-Fishing for Steelhead on the • Skiing Mount Bachelor: With ski North Umpqua River: Made famous slopes dropping off the very summit by Zane Grey, the North Umpqua is of this extinct volcano, Mount Bach- the quintessential steelhead river, and elor ski area, in central Oregon, is the for part of its length it’s open to fly- state’s premier ski area. Seemingly fishing only. The river and the elusive endless runs of all levels of ability steelhead offer a legendary fishing make this a magnet for skiers and experience. See p. 267. snowboarders from around the state, • Rafting the Rogue River: Of all the and lots of high-speed quad chairs state’s white-water-rafting rivers, keep people on the instead of none is more famous than the Rogue. standing in line. See p. 319. 05_763888 ch01.qxp 3/23/06 9:03 PM Page 6

6 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF OREGON

3 The Best Beaches See chapter 7 for details on the beaches here get a little bit warmer than listed below. unprotected waters elsewhere on the • Cannon Beach/Ecola State Park: coast, so it’s sometimes possible to With the massive monolith of actually go swimming. See p. 216. Haystack Rock rising up from the • Bandon: It’s difficult to imagine a low-tide line and the secluded more picturesque stretch of coastline beaches of Ecola State Park just north than the beach in Bandon. Haystack of town, Cannon Beach offers all the rocks rise up from sand and sea as if best of the Oregon coast. See p. 175. strewn there by some giant hand. • Oswald West State Park: At this Motels and houses front this scenic state park south of Cannon Beach, it’s beach, which ensures its popularity no a 15-minute walk through the woods matter what the weather. See p. 219. to the beach, which keeps the sand • The Beaches of Samuel H. Board- from ever getting too crowded. The man State Scenic Corridor: Some of crescent-shaped beach is on a the prettiest, most secluded, and least secluded cove backed by dense forest. visited beaches on the Oregon coast This also happens to be a popular are within this remote south-coast surfing spot. See p. 176. state park. Ringed by rocky head- • Sunset Bay State Park: Almost com- lands, the many little crescents of sand pletely surrounded by sandstone in this park provide an opportunity to cliffs, this little beach near Coos Bay find the perfect beach. See p. 228. is on a shallow cove. The clear waters

4 The Best Hikes • Cape Lookout Trail: Leading 2.5 passes two spectacular waterfalls in miles through dense forests to the tip the first 2 miles. Along the way, the of this rugged cape on the north Ore- trail climbs up the steep gorge walls, gon coast, this trail ends high on a and in places it is cut right into the cliff above the waters of the Pacific. basalt cliffs. See p. 237. Far below, gray whales can often be • Timberline Trail: As the name seen lolling in the waves, and the implies, this trail starts at the timber- view to the south takes in miles of line, high on the slopes of Mount coastline. See p. 186. Hood. Because the route circles Mount • John Dellenback Dunes Trail: If Hood, you can start in either direction you’ve ever dreamed of joining the and make a day, overnight, or multiday French Foreign Legion or simply hike of it. Paradise Park, its meadows want to play at being Lawrence of ablaze with wildflowers in July and Arabia, then the Oregon Dunes August, is a favorite for both day hikes National Recreation Area is the place and overnight trips. See p. 256. for you. Within this vast expanse of • McKenzie River Trail to Tamolitch sand dunes, you’ll find the highest Pool: The McKenzie River Trail dunes on the Oregon coast—some stretches for 26 miles along the banks 500 feet tall. See p. 211. of this aquamarine river, but by far • Eagle Creek Trail: This trail in the the most rewarding stretch of trail is Columbia Gorge follows the tum- the 2-mile hike to Tamolitch Pool, an bling waters of Eagle Creek and astounding pool of turquoise waters 05_763888 ch01.qxp 3/23/06 9:03 PM Page 7

THE BEST MUSEUMS 7 formed as the McKenzie River wells side of the Cascades, passes through an up out of the ground after flowing open ponderosa pine forest to the west underground for several miles. The of Bend. Paralleling the river and pass- trail leads through rugged, overgrown ing tumultuous waterfalls along the lava fields. See p. 262. way, it is an easy trail that’s popular • Deschutes River Trail: The Deschutes with hikers, mountain bikers, and jog- River, which flows down from the east gers. See p. 320.

5 The Best Scenic Drives • Gold Beach to Brookings: No other Cascade crest twice, takes in views of stretch of U.S. 101 along the Oregon half a dozen major Cascade peaks, coast is more breathtaking than the negotiates a bizarre landscape of lava segment between Gold Beach and fields, passes several waterfalls, and Brookings. This remote coastline is skirts aptly named Clear Lake, the dotted with offshore islands, natural source of the McKenzie River. This is rock arches, sea caves, bluffs, and one of the best drives in the state for beaches. Take your time, stop at the fall color. See p. 261. many pull-offs, and make this a • Crater Lake Rim Drive: This scenic leisurely all-day drive. See p. 228. drive circles the rim of the massive • Historic Columbia River Highway: caldera that holds Crater Lake. Along Built between 1914 and 1926 to the way are numerous pull-offs where allow automobiles access to the won- you can admire the sapphire-blue ders of the Columbia Gorge, this nar- waters and the ever-changing scenery. row, winding highway east of See p. 270. Portland climbs up to the top of the • Highway: This road gorge for a scenic vista before diving covers roughly 100 miles as it loops into forests where waterfalls, includ- out from Bend along the eastern slope ing the tallest one in the state, pour of the Cascades. Views of Broken Top off of basalt cliffs. See p. 236. and the Three Sisters are frequent, and • The Santiam and McKenzie Passes: along the way are numerous lakes, This loop drive, which crosses the both large and small. See p. 321.

6 The Best Museums • Portland Art Museum: Although Goose,” the largest wooden plane the main focus is on bringing block- ever built. There are also plenty of buster, touring shows to town, the smaller planes on display to provide a Portland Art Museum recently added little perspective for this behemoth of a new wing for contemporary and the air. See p. 133. modern art. The museum also has • Jensen Arctic Museum (Mon- respectable collections of Native mouth): This museum is not very American artifacts and Northwest big, but it contains an amazingly contemporary art. See p. 98. diverse collection of artifacts from the • Evergreen Aviation Museum Arctic. Even more surprising than the (McMinnville): Looking like a cross thoroughness of the collection is the between a gigantic airplane hangar fact that the museum is here in Ore- and a huge barn, this museum is gon, not in Alaska. See p. 146. home to Howard Hughes’s “Spruce 05_763888 ch01.qxp 3/23/06 9:03 PM Page 8

8 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF OREGON • Columbia River Maritime Museum the area’s Native American tribes. See (Astoria): Located near the mouth of p. 309. the Columbia River, this large mod- • The High Desert Museum (Bend): ern museum has fascinating exhibits With its popular live-animal exhibits, on the Coast Guard and the danger- this is more a zoo than a museum, ous waters at the mouth of the river. but exhibits also offer glimpses into See p. 166. the history of the vast and little- • Favell Museum of Western Art and known high desert that stretches Indian Artifacts (Klamath Falls): from the Cascades eastward to the This museum houses an overwhelm- Rocky Mountains. See p. 317. ing assortment of Native American • National Historic Oregon Trail artifacts, including thousands of Interpretive Center at Flagstaff Hill arrowheads, spear points, and other (Baker City): The lives of 19th-century stone tools. See p. 272. pioneers, who gave up everything to • The Museum at Warm Springs venture overland to the Pacific North- (Warm Springs Reservation): Set in a west, are documented at this evocative remote valley in central Oregon, this museum. Set atop a hill in sagebrush modern museum houses an out- country, the museum overlooks wagon standing collection of artifacts from ruts left by pioneers. See p. 334.

7 The Best Family Attractions • Oregon Museum of Science and in the country, is home to hundreds Industry (Portland): With an OMN- of Steller’s sea lions that lounge IMAX theater, a planetarium, a sub- on the rocks beneath busy U.S. 101. marine, and loads of hands-on See p. 208. exhibits, this Portland museum is fun • West Coast Game Park (Bandon): for kids and adults alike. See p. 98. The opportunity to pet baby wild ani- • Oregon Coast Aquarium (New- mals, including leopards and bears, port): This modern aquarium is the doesn’t come often, so it’s hard to pass biggest attraction on the coast. Tufted up this roadside attraction on the puffins and sea otters are always coast. See p. 221. entertaining, while tide pools, jelly- • Wildlife Safari (Winston): Giraffes fish tanks, sharks, and a giant octopus peer in your window and rhinocer- also contribute to the appeal of this oses thunder past your car doors as very realistically designed public you drive the family through this aquarium. See p. 199. expansive wildlife park. The savan- • Sea Lion Caves (north of Florence): nalike setting is reminiscent of the This massive cave, the largest sea cave African plains. See p. 302.

8 The Best Historical Sites • Lewis and Clark National Histori- interpreters bring the history of the cal Park (Astoria): This new national fort to life. See p. 166. park comprises numerous historic • Jacksonville: With more than 80 sites that explorers Lewis and Clark buildings listed on the National utilized during the winter of Register of Historic Places, this 19th- 1805–06. The sites are located century gold-mining town is the best- around the mouth of the Columbia preserved historic community in River. During the summer, costumed Oregon. Here you’ll also find two 05_763888 ch01.qxp 3/23/06 9:03 PM Page 9

THE BEST B&BS 9 inns housed in buildings constructed Baker City’s National Historic Oregon in 1861, which makes these Oregon’s Trail Interpretive Center. See p. 334. oldest buildings being used as inns. • Kam Wah Chung & Co. Museum See p. 287. (John Day): This unusual little • Oregon Trail Wagon Ruts (Baker museum is way off the beaten path City): It’s hard to believe that some- but is well worth a visit if you’re any- thing as seemingly ephemeral as a where in the vicinity. The museum wagon rut can last more than 150 preserves the home, office, and years, but the path made by the thou- apothecary of a Chinese doctor who sands of pioneers who followed the ministered to the local Chinese com- Oregon Trail cut deep into the land. munity in the early part of the 20th One place you can see ruts is near century. See p. 339.

9 The Best Hotels for Families • Embassy Suites (Portland; & 800/ go rafting and horseback riding. See EMBASSY or 503/279-9000): Unlike p. 311. most other Embassy Suites, this is a • Black Butte Ranch (Sisters; & 800/ historic hotel, but it still has those spa- 452-7455 or 541/595-6211): With cious suites that are great for families. stunning views of the Three Sisters Plus, there’s a pool and video arcade peaks, this central Oregon resort has down in the basement. See p. 76. a solid feel of being in the mountains. • Hallmark Resort (Cannon Beach; Four pools, a kayaking lake, horse- & 888/448-4449 or 503/436-1566): back riding stables, and bike paths Set on a bluff with a great view of provide plenty of options for keeping Cannon Beach’s famous Haystack the kids entertained. See p. 314. Rock, this is just about the most fam- • Seventh Mountain Resort (& 800/ ily oriented hotel in town. There are 452-6810 or 541/382-8711): Al- two indoor pools. See p. 178. though this resort is close to the • Lake of the Woods (Klamath Falls; Mount Bachelor ski area and has an & 866/201-4194 or 541/949-8300): ice-skating rink in the winter, it is most This old-fashioned lakefront lodge in popular with families in the summer, the southern Oregon Cascades is a bit when kids flock to the pools, the like a summer camp for the whole miniature golf course, the playground, family. There’s great swimming and and the basketball court. See p. 324. you can rent boats and mountain • Sunriver Lodge & Resort (Sunriver; bikes. See p. 273. & 800/801-8765 or 541/593-1000): • Kah-Nee-Ta High Desert Resort This resort south of Bend in Oregon’s & Casino (Warm Springs; & 800/ high desert is popular with families 554-4786 or 541/553-1112): This for its many miles of bike trails that remote resort is centered around a meander through pine forests. There huge warm-springs–fed swimming are also riding stables and canoes and pool that is a major magnet for kayaks for rent on the gentle waters of vacationing families. You can also the Deschutes River. See p. 324.

10 The Best B&Bs • Heron Haus (Portland; & 503/ elegant old mansion is surrounded by 274-1846): Located in one of Port- lush grounds and has a view over land’s prettiest neighborhoods, this the city. If you want to sample the 05_763888 ch01.qxp 3/23/06 9:03 PM Page 10

10 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF OREGON epitome of bathroom luxury around castlelike ambience, or it could be the 1920, ask for the room with the mul- abundance of European antiques and tiple-head shower. See p. 77. original art. See p. 177. • Springbrook Hazelnut Farm (New- • Channel House (Depoe Bay; & 800/ berg; & 800/793-8528 or 503/ 447-2140 or 541/765-2140): Situated 538-4606): Set in the midst of the on the cliff above the narrow channel Yamhill County wine country, this into tiny Depoe Bay, this B&B offers working hazelnut farm captures the one of the most striking settings on the essence of rural Oregon and distills it Oregon coast. The contemporary into a tranquil and restorative retreat. design includes guest rooms made for You can opt to stay in the carriage romance—a hot tub on the balcony, a house or a cottage. See p. 135. fireplace, and an unsurpassed view out • Black Walnut Inn (Dundee; & 866/ the windows. See p. 197. 429-4114 or 503/429-4114): Set • Newport Belle Bed & Breakfast high in the hills above Dundee, this (Newport; & 800/348-1922 or inn is designed to resemble a Tuscan 541/867-6290): The rooms at this villa and is a luxurious retreat amid B&B may not be the most luxurious wine-country vineyards. See p. 135. or the largest, but the fact that they are • Willamette Gables Riverside Estate on a replica paddle wheeler moored in (Newberg; & 503/678-2195): Yaquina Bay near the Oregon Coast Designed as a replica of a Natchez, Aquarium certainly makes them some Mississippi, plantation home, this of the most unusual. See p. 202. modern B&B is set on the banks of • Heceta Head Lightstation (Yachats; the Willamette River and will have & 541/547-3696): Ever dreamed of you dreaming of Scarlet O’Hara and staying at a lighthouse? Well, on the Rhett Butler. See p. 135. Oregon coast, your dream can come • The Secret Garden (Eugene; & 888/ true at this former lighthouse keeper’s 484-6755 or 541/484-6755): Housed home. The Victorian B&B, which in what was once a sorority house and claims one of the most spectacular before that the home of one of locations on the entire coast, is set Eugene’s founding families, this very high on a hill above the crashing elegant inn is utterly tasteful. The waves. See p. 208. garden has some very interesting • Chetco River Inn & Lavender Farm secrets. See p. 160. (Brookings; & 541/251-0087): • Arch Cape House (Cannon Beach; Want to get away from it all without & 800/436-2848 or 503/436-2800): sacrificing luxury and great food? Patterned after a French château, this Book a room at this remote B&B on mansion-size B&B may seem oddly the crystal-clear Chetco River. The out of place on the Oregon coast, but setting––in the middle of a national no one staying here seems to mind. It forest––is as tranquil as you could could be the huge guest rooms and want. See p. 231.

11 The Best Small Inns • Cannery Pier Hotel (Astoria; waterfront and looks as if it could & 888/325-4996 or 503/325-4996): have been a cannery at one time. See Located on a pier 600 feet out in the p. 169. Columbia River, this new luxury • Stephanie Inn (Cannon Beach; hotel fits in perfectly on the Astoria & 800/633-3466 or 503/436-2221): 05_763888 ch01.qxp 3/23/06 9:03 PM Page 11

THE BEST HISTORIC HOTELS & LODGES 11 Combining the look of a mountain choice guest rooms provide the per- lodge with a beachfront setting in fect setting for forgetting about your Oregon’s most artistic town, the everyday stresses. See p. 229. Stephanie Inn is a romantic retreat • Steamboat Inn (Steamboat; & 800/ that surrounds its guests with unpre- 840-8825 or 541/498-2230): Ore- tentious luxury. See p. 178. gon’s North Umpqua River is leg- • Coast Cabins (Manzanita; & 503/ endary for its steelhead fishing, and 368-7113): Although not actually an this is where you stay if you want to inn or a lodge, this collection of five return to elegance and comfort after a modern cottages is so thoroughly day on the water. However, many enchanting that I had to include it guests show up with no intention of here. Beautiful perennial gardens sur- casting a fly into the river’s waters. round the cottages. See p. 182. See p. 268. • Sylvia Beach Hotel (Newport; • The Winchester Inn (Ashland; & 888/795-8422 or 541/265-5428): & 800/972-4991 or 541/488-1113): Taking literature as its theme and dec- Located only 2 blocks from the the- orating its rooms to evoke authors— aters of the Oregon Shakespeare Festi- from Edgar Allan Poe to Dr. val, this place has the feel of a country Seuss—the Sylvia Beach Hotel is the inn although it’s located right in most original small inn in the North- town. Rooms are in three different west. The fact that it’s only a block buildings, including a modern Victo- from the beach is just icing on the rian cottage. See p. 283. cake. See p. 203. • Pine Ridge Inn (Bend; & 800/ • Tu Tu Tun Lodge (Gold Beach; 600-4095 or 541/389-6137): This & 800/864-6357 or 541/247-6664): luxurious inn is located on the out- Though some might think of this as a skirts of Bend on a bluff overlooking fishing lodge, it’s far too luxurious for the Deschutes River. With its spa- anglers to keep to themselves. A cious rooms and suites, antiques, and secluded setting on the lower Rogue regional art, it provides both elegance River guarantees tranquillity, and and a Northwest flavor. See p. 322.

12 The Best Historic Hotels & Lodges • The Benson (Portland; & 888/ • Columbia Gorge Hotel (Hood 523-6766 or 503/228-2000): With River; & 800/345-1921 or 541/386- its crystal chandeliers, walnut panel- 5566): Opened in 1921 to handle the ing, and ornate plasterwork ceiling in first automobile traffic up the the lobby, this 1912 vintage hotel Columbia Gorge, this Mission-style is Portland’s most elegant lodging. hotel commands a stunning view See p. 76. across the gorge and is surrounded by • Hotel Elliott (Astoria; & 877/EST- colorful gardens. See p. 245. 1924 or 503/325-2222): Originally • Timberline Lodge (Mount Hood; opened in 1924, this hotel retains & 800/547-1406 or 503/622-7979): much of its original character, but Built by the WPA during the Great now features lots of modern touches Depression, this stately mountain and contemporary styling. When it’s lodge with grand stone fireplace, time to relax, you’ll have to choose exposed beams, and wide-plank floors between the roof-top garden and the showcases the skills of the craftspeople cellar wine bar. See p. 169. who created it. See p. 259. 05_763888 ch01.qxp 3/23/06 9:03 PM Page 12

12 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF OREGON • Crater Lake Lodge (Crater Lake mineral springs, but today it is, National Park; & 541/830-8700): instead, a superb choice for anyone Perched on the rim of the caldera (not attending the Oregon Shakespeare crater) that holds the blue waters of Festival. See p. 281. Crater Lake, this mountain lodge isn’t • Geiser Grand Hotel (Baker City; actually a historic hotel, but it incorpo- & 888/434-7374 or 541/523-1889): rates details from the original lodge Originally opened in 1889 at the that used to stand on this same site. height of the Blue Mountains gold The setting is breathtaking. See p. 270. rush, this Baker City grand dame has • Ashland Springs Hotel (Ashland; been completely renovated and suc- & 888/795-4545 or 541/488-1700): ceeds in capturing the feel of a Wild This historic high-rise hotel was orig- West luxury hotel without sacrificing inally built to cash in on Ashland’s any modern conveniences. See p. 337.

13 The Best Dining with a View • Chart House (Portland; 503/246- shoreline known for putting on some 6963): Perched high on a hillside, of the coast’s best displays of crashing this restaurant boasts the best view of waves. See p. 198. any restaurant in Portland. The • Saffron Salmon (Newport; & 541/ Willamette River is directly below and 265-8921): As you dine at this off in the distance stand Mount Hood restaurant at the end of a pier on the and Mount St. Helens. See p. 89. Newport bayfront, keep an eye out • Roseanna’s Oceanside Café (Ocean- for sea lions and fishermen unloading side; & 503/842-7351): You can their catch. See p. 204. expect a long wait to get a table here • Lord Bennett’s Restaurant and on a summer weekend, but the view of Lounge (Bandon; & 541/347-3663): the haystack rocks just offshore makes The beach in Bandon is strewn with this place an absolute legend on the dozens of huge monoliths that make Three Capes Scenic Loop. See p. 187. this one of the most impressive • Pelican Pub & Brewery (Pacific stretches of shoreline in the state, and City; & 503/965-7007): Cheap pub this restaurant has the perfect view for food and good microbrews are usu- enjoying sunset over the sand, surf, ally enough to keep an Oregon brew- and giant rocks. See p. 223. pub packed, but this one also has a • Multnomah Falls Lodge (Columbia head-on view of Haystack Rock and Gorge; & 503/695-2376): This his- is right on the beach. See p. 187. toric lodge is at the base of Oregon’s • Tidal Raves (Depoe Bay; & 541/ tallest waterfall, and although not 765-2995): When the surf’s up, you every table has a view of the waterfall, can practically forget about getting a there are plenty that do, especially in table at this oceanfront restaurant. the summer when there is outside The windows overlook a rugged seating. See p. 240.

14 The Best Off-the-Beaten-Path Restaurants • The Joel Palmer House (Dayton; them in almost every dish on the & 503/864-2995): Mushrooms are menu. The restaurant is quite formal, the chef’s obsession at this wine- housed in an immaculately restored country restaurant, and you’ll find old home. See p. 138. 05_763888 ch01.qxp 3/23/06 9:03 PM Page 13

THE BEST OFF-THE-BEATEN-PATH RESTAURANTS 13 • Cascade Dining Room (Mount this is ostensibly a fishing-lodge dining Hood; & 503/622-0700): Located room, but the multicourse gourmet inside the historic Timberline Lodge, meals served here have become the the Cascade Dining Room is Ore- stuff of legends. See p. 268. gon’s premier mountain-lodge restau- • Kokanee Café (Camp Sherman; rant and has long kept skiers and & 541/595-6420): Located amid other hotel guests happy. See p. 260. the ponderosa pines on the banks • Log Cabin Inn (McKenzie Bridge; of the Metolius River near the West- & 800/355-3432 or 541/822-3432): ern theme town of Sisters, this rustic This place is an Oregon classic and in restaurant has the look of an upscale the past has served the likes of Clark fishing lodge, but its clientele is much Gable and President Herbert Hoover. broader than just the foolish fly Try the venison medallions. See p. 263. anglers who come to test the waters of • Steamboat Inn (Steamboat; & 800/ the Metolius. The trout is, of course, 840-8825 or 541/498-2230): Set on always a good bet. See p. 316. the banks of the North Umpqua River,