Proceedings ITAA 2012 Annual Conference
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Proceedings ITAA 2012 Annual Conference Honolulu, Hawai`i November 14-17, 2012 Creative Design Fiber Art Anderson, Verretta. Armorium Axak, Natalia. Aloft Bird Angel Wings Baker, Renee. Bold Bella Bennett, Sarah. Sangiovese Bernstein, Rebecca. Vested in Geometry Campbell, J.R. Oops, Sorry II Chang, Li-Fen. Eco-Pop Dames, Abigail. Coral Reef Daniel, Katy. Uncaged Dewey, Audra. Rebirth: In Memory of Aunt Vicky Gam, Hae Jin. Forget Me Knot Hall, Hanna. Viivat Her, Mai See. Fallen Queen Hobbs, Kayna. Whimsically Charred Kane, Laura. Tree Ring Dress Kwon, Yoo Jin. Mountain, Cloud, and Portrait of a Beauty LaFleur, Rosetta. Aqua Windows Malicsi, Jose Basil. The Imeldific Dress Mamp, Michael. Hidden Memories, Forgotten Prayers II Mamp, Michael. Hidden Words Milani, Cassandra. Earth Warrior Moody, Anna and St. Germain, Megan. Zeitgeist Morris, Kristen. CoVess Parsons, Jean and McBee-Black, Kerri. Winter Pyne, Ellen. Medusozoa Pyne, Ellen. Seraph Ray, Sheryl. Flight of the Weaver Rich, Angelina. Rustic Luxury Roche, Calli. Corporeal Extensions: Exercises in Paper Draping Roche, Calli. Racism Imbued Salas, Feliz. La Femme Parisienne Salas, Feliz. Midnight Solstice Sanden Will, Sherry. Natural Textured Wooden Dress Sanders, Eulanda. Organized Chaos Song, Ji Hyun and Yoo, Young Sun. Inconsistent Maze Sparks, Diane and Jiang, Kinor. Metallic Shibori in Rose Gold Stannard, Casey. Sea Ice Tipton, Jo Dean. Jia Tomita, Anna. Gift of Nature Winford, Sarah. Film Noir Wolens, Lily. Condom Couture Wolens, Lily. Our Dark Shadow Yang, Eunyoung. Brushstrokes in Red Yu, Yang. Circles Honolulu, Hawaii 2012 Proceedings Armorium Verretta Andersen, Colorado State University, USA Keywords: Repurposed, recyclable Armorium was designed with the intent to create a dress using 100% recyclable and repurposed materials. The inspiration for this garment came through the collection and experimentation of materials from pop tabs from aluminum cans, glass bottle caps, aluminum foil, and trash bags and combination of textures. A layering of the pop tops with hammered bottle caps created an armor-like appearance that was incorporated into the chest plate of the dress. This garment was designed and constructed to be modeled in a student produced fashion show featuring recycled garments. The bodice was draped to create a pattern for the bodice. The bodice was constructed with a base of heavyweight non-woven interfacing. Over 1200 pop tabs and bottle caps were sewn and glued to the bodice on the dress form to maintain the shape and fit of the dress. Each pop top tab was sewn onto the garment one at a time. The pop tabs were overlapped to create curves over the female dress form. The bottle caps were flattened with a hammer and then cut in half. The bottle caps were then individually glued on the garment while it was on the dress form in order to create the shape. Page 1 of 2 © 2012, International Textile and Apparel Association, Inc. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED ITAA Proceedings, #69 – www.itaaonline.org 2012 Proceedings Honolulu, Hawaii The skirt was designed with flat pattern drafting. The skirt includes five separate layers of black plastic trash bag tiers which meet at center back. The side aluminum foil panels were made by creating the texture and shape by hand. As a final touch, tabs on the front, back, and side panels were spray painted to create metallic shades. Page 2 of 2 © 2012, International Textile and Apparel Association, Inc. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED ITAA Proceedings, #69 – www.itaaonline.org Honolulu, Hawaii 2012 Proceedings Aloft Bird Angel Wings Natalia Axak, Texas Woman’s University, USA Keywords: Design, sustainability, silk Purpose Nature, with its infinite treasures and looks, never ceases to inspire us. Earthy and natural, the design draws inspiration from a whimsical forest with beautiful animals, birds and flowers. In creating the elegant sheath dress with bateau and silk bow enhanced neckline, the designer concentrated on sustainable design elements by using recycled and organic materials including fine quality organic silks and wools. The designer’s goal was to design a dress that was feminine and elegant, yet cutting-edge and enhanced a woman’s natural femininity. In seeking to identify the target customer, the designer defined an ideal woman as urban, 25-45 year old, who wants to stand out from the crowd and express her own individuality. She is elegant, stylish, and innovative. The designer’s apparel will encourage her to experiment with her wardrobe, develop an individual sense of style and build her fashion confidence even further. She is an affluent customer who likes quality product with innovative details. The wearer is passionate about life and the environment around her. Process The design was inspired by gardens and the dreamlike silhouettes of nature. A larger collection was conceptualized for the defined customer. The designer used a lot of natural fibers like silk and wool to create the product because of the customer’s expectation of quality and comfort. Using 100% organic silks will make a figure even more feminine and beautiful, paying attention to the environment at the same time. Luxurious fabrics with intricate details indicate prestige with an air of sophistication. The delicate fabric and dreamlike silhouette are well crafted together with the consumer’s desire for adventure and self-discovery in mind. Sketches of daytime dresses cut on the bias were created with loose silhouettes. The garment was selected for design and construction from the group. The designer sought the perfect fabrics, wanting to keep the garment earthy and sustainable, yet sophisticated. Organic silks were found in different weights and fabric construction with a delicate hand. The fabrics were airy and breathable and would translate well into a multi-regional geographic market. Because the look of the garment is focused on natural beauty and because it draws its inspiration from whimsical forest with beautiful animals, birds and Page 1 of 2 © 2012, International Textile and Apparel Association, Inc. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED ITAA Proceedings, #69 – www.itaaonline.org 2012 Proceedings Honolulu, Hawaii flowers, color trends were selected for 2012-2013, with a neutral and natural color palette including camel, ancient bronze, yew tree, and pond. Fabrics for the dress were primarily in the cream and camel coloring. The designer had attended a felting workshop prior to designing the garment and had found wool clippings from a recent sheering. The decision was made to create a unique fabric for part of the design that enhanced its beauty and focused on its sustainable theme. After experimenting with the wool and silk gauze, the designer damp laid ringlets of cleaned wool on the silk gauze, and using a punch felting tool began to abrade the wool into yard goods of the silk base. Some of the ringlets of wool were left loose on the ends to create dimensionality and surface interest. After sufficient felting, the wool fibers integrated with the silk to create a medium weight, textural fabric, unlike any available in the market. A pattern and muslin were created using draping and flat pattern techniques and the garment was constructed. Techniques: The garment was constructed using hand and machine sewing. A muslin was created for a first fitting to ensure fluid movement without a body tight fit. The goal was to create a sheath dress that had a smooth flow across the body, just hinting at the elegant curves of the wearer. Upon final approval of the fit, the fabrics were prepared. A hand-made felted fabric, created using organic silk and wool fiber, composed the skirting while a silk gauze shell fabric was used for the bodice and bow. A single layer of the gauze was embellished with organic wool clippings using a hand felting technique. Ringlets of wool fiber in variegated natural cream colors were integrated into the silk leaving dimensionality. Wool was sprinkled across the fabric rather than an even coating for appearance purposes, was felted, and finished with periodic amber crystal beads. The felted silk was used for the skirting of the sheath dress. A lining of fine silk chiffon was used to finish the dress. A side zipper was inset and couture stitch techniques were used to finish French seams and hems. Because the dress design was created for women that value individuality, quality products, and sustainable lifestyles, the raw silk and wool composition incorporated innovative details that conveyed the designer’s unique vision. The dress provides customization of a unique, one-of-a- kind look for a sustainable and organically-minded, sophisticated consumer. Page 2 of 2 © 2012, International Textile and Apparel Association, Inc. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED ITAA Proceedings, #69 – www.itaaonline.org Honolulu, Hawaii 2012 Proceedings Bold Bella Renee Baker, Illinois State University, USA Key Words: digital print, draping, drafting The purpose of this look was to blend the classic, chic influence of Cristobal Balenciaga and the modern edge of Nicholas Ghesquière. This aesthetic fusion is the perfect ensemble for an exciting, romantic Hawaiian evening. The process for the dress started with the design of the Hawaiian print. I created the Hawaiian print in Adobe Illustrator. I was inspired by the life and shapes common to Hawaiian prints and I wanted to maintain Cristobal Balenciaga’s elegant color preferences. I designed the print in black and it was then digitally printed onto white cotton fabric. To achieve the mint color of the dress, I combined two dyes, teal and kelly green. I mixed several batches to achieve the desired color. I felt the mint and black color combination would have received Cristobal Balenciaga’s approval. I wanted the ensemble to honor the Balenciaga name and maintain the aesthetic allure of the current creative director, Nicholas Ghesquière. The top of the dress is color blocked with a silver/gray, shimmery fabric to add dimension to the print.