Cape Cod Cover Revised Spine14mm

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PROPERY OF TWIN LIGHTS PUBLISHERS PROPERY OF TWIN LIGHTS PUBLISHERS Cape Cod Martha’s Vineyard & Nantucket

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A PHOTOGRAPHIC PORTRAIT

PHOTOGRAPHY BY Paul Scharff

All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced in any form without written permission of the copyright owners. All images in this book have been reproduced with the knowledge and prior con- sent of the artists concerned and no respon- sibility is accepted by producer, publisher, or printer for any infringement of copyright or otherwise, arising from the contents of this publication. Every effort has been made to ensure that credits accurately comply with information supplied.

First published in the United StatesPROPERY of OF TWIN LIGHTS PUBLISHERS PROPERY OF TWIN LIGHTS PUBLISHERS America by:

Twin Lights Publishers, Inc. 8 Hale Street Rockport, Massachusetts 01966 Telephone: (978) 546-7398 http://www.twinlightspub.com

ISBN: 1-885435-83-5 ISBN: 978-1-885435-83-5

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Waiting it Out (opposite) FIRST ENCOUNTER BEACH, EASTHAM Powerful receding tides along the coast of Cape Cod can expose a mile orPROPERY more OF TWIN LIGHTS PUBLISHERS PROPERY OF TWIN LIGHTS PUBLISHERS of ocean bottom, leaving sculpted sand formations, sparkling ribbons of shallow water, and an occasional boat.

(frontispiece) LECOUNT HOLLOW BEACH, WELLFLEET

(jacket front) HOWES BEACH, DENNIS

(jacket back) APTUCXET TRADING POST, BOURNE

Narrative by Karen T. Bartlett www.karentbartlett.com A former resident of New England, Bartlett is an award-winning travelPROPERY writer OF TWIN LIGHTS PUBLISHERS PROPERY OF TWIN LIGHTS PUBLISHERS whose work appears in books, magazines and newspapers throughout North America and the Caribbean.

Special thanks to Debra and Ken Traugot, innkeepers/owners of the Beechwood Inn; to Stephanie and John Lowell, owners of East Dennis Oyster Farm; and to William DeSousa-Mauk, Vice President of Michael Patrick Communications, for going above and beyond to help in our quest for accu- racy and timeliness in the preparation of this book.

Book design by: SYP Design & Production, Inc. www.sypdesign.com

Printed in China “ ...you’re sure to fall in love with old Cape Cod.”

he historic seaside communities of Cape including Black Sam Bellamy’s pirate ship that went Cod, Martha’s Vineyard, and Nantucket down in 1717. stir the souls of artists and photographers, From historic Sandwich at Cape Cod’s upper arm, T romantics, and scholars. A skyline of to its oyster-rich elbow, to the vibrant and colorful lighthouses, windmills and church spires, accented art colony of Provincetown at its fist, the Cape with a kaleidoscopePROPERY of colorful wooden OF boatsTWIN and encompassesLIGHTS 413 PUBLISHERS square miles. Martha’s Vineyard PROPERY OF TWIN LIGHTS PUBLISHERS rainbow-hued lobster buoys, are set against land covers 100 square miles, and tiny Nantucket—once and seascapes of tranquil ponds, raging surf, and the whaling capital of the world—is tucked into just heather-covered moors. Parabolic dunes that rise 80 50 square miles. Throughout the 563 square-mile to 100 feet inspire breathtaking awe. maritime landscape are hundreds of fine art gal- Abundant wildlife draws bird-watchers and natu- leries, artisans studios and craft boutiques. A strik- ralists, while sports enthusiasts come for unparal- ing, 252-foot high monument celebrates the fact leled sailing, fishing, kayaking, and kiteboarding. that it was the tip of Cape Cod, not Plymouth, While cars may often be necessary for some ven- where the Mayflower first landed. tures, the most delightful ways to experience Cape Local museums are rich with treasures, from qua- Cod, Martha’s Vineyard and Nantucket are on foot, hog-shell wampum to pirate pieces of eight; from by bicycle, and by boat. There are more than 100 Mayflower Pilgrim-related artifacts to treasures from miles of dedicated bicycle paths, endless miles of the heyday of whaling. A wealth of 17th to 20th winding country lanes, and pristine wooded and century collections range from the bells of town seaside trails. PROPERY OF TWIN criersLIGHTS to John F. Kennedy’sPUBLISHERS personal family photos. PROPERY OF TWIN LIGHTS PUBLISHERS There are sleepy villages and gentrified towns; The Cape is the home of Peter Cottontail and vintage railroads and historic bridges; salty fish- Sandwich Glass. It was here, at America’s oldest ing wharves and fashionable yacht harbors. With professional summer theater, that legendary stars architecture ranging from sea captains’ mansions to like Bette Davis, Humphrey Bogart, and Gregory quintessential seaside cottages including an entire Peck made their stage debuts, and famed play- village of Victorian Gingerbread houses—Cape wrights, the likes of Eugene O’Neill and Tennessee Cod, Martha’s Vineyard, and Nantucket are the Williams, wrote and saw some of their first plays stuff of artists’ dreams. produced. Few beaches on earth compare with the forty Whether you come to research the deepest unbroken miles of windswept seashore on Cape secrets of the ocean, celebrate the ancestry of Cod, immortalized in Henry David Thoreau’s 1865 America, or experience the endless beauty of it all; book, Cape Cod. The dramatic, multi-hued mineral whether you live here, or simply come for a steam- cliffs of Martha’s Vineyard lure geologists to ing bowl of clam chowder and a taste of the most explore their mysteries.PROPERY Centuries ofOF powerful TWIN tides succulentLIGHTS oysters PUBLISHERS in the world, may Paul Scharff’s PROPERY OF TWIN LIGHTS PUBLISHERS and violent nor’easters have created one of the evocative photography on these pages keep the largest shipwreck graveyards on the Atlantic Coast, memories fresh, and bring you back again.

Brant Point Light (opposite) NANTUCKET Near the Nantucket ferry landing, standing just 26 feet tall, Brant Point Light occupies the site of the second lighthouse built in America, 30 years after Boston Light. Though destroyed many times by fire and wind, the spirit of the original remains intact.

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Bourne Bridge BOURNE Along with her look-alike, the Sagamore Bridge over the Cape Cod Canal, the historic cantilever Bourne Bridge opened in 1935 connecting the Cape with the mainland. Each bridge has a ship clear- ance of 135 feet.

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Cape Cod Canal (above) Sagamore Bridge (opposite, top) Railroad Bridge (opposite, bottom) BOURNE BOURNE BOURNE Part of the Intracoastal Waterway, the When it was built, the 616-foot horizon- The Railroad Bridge, supported by 271- approximately 17 mile-long man-made tal span of the Sagamore Bridge made foot high towers, is the second longest Cape Cod Canal connects Cape Cod it the longest list span in the world. It lift bridge in the U.S. Though there is Bay to Buzzards Bay. The widest sea brings as many as 200,000 vehicles no longer train service from the main- level canal in the world, it is spanned on a single summertime weekend over land, the Cape Cod Central Railroad by two highway bridges and a railroad Buzzard’s Bay from U.S. Route 6. still uses it for sightseeing and dinner bridge. excursions.

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Jonathan Bourne Historical Center (top) Walking Tour (bottom) Recycled Windmill (opposite) BOURNE BOURNE BOURNE When it split from Sandwich in 1884, The Bourne Center is an ideal starting Joseph Jefferson, the Cape Cod actor Bourne became Cape Cod’s second point to tour some of the oldest historic who portrayed Rip Van Winkle, used this town. Many of its buildings and arti- sites on Cape Cod, including the Briggs- Dutch-style windmill as an art studio back facts date back to the 1600s. This McDermott House, a fine example of in the time of his good friend President library-turned museum was named for early 19th Century Greek Revival Grover Cleveland, who had a summer one of the founding fathers, whaling architecture with period furnishings. home here. Relocated to the Aptucxet ship owner, Jonathan Bourne. Museum complex, it’s now a gift shop.

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Trading with Wampum Aptucxet Museum BOURNE BOURNE The original Aptucxet Trading Post was The museum collection includes arrow- built in 1627 by the Plymouth Colony. heads, wampum, and other period arti- Its excavated foundation may be the ear- facts. Most mysterious is the Bournedale liest remains of a Pilgrim building. The Stone. Some say it is a rune stone dating Pilgrims used wampum, the currency back to the Viking era. The museum made from local quahog shells, to trade offers history tours and classes in basket with the Indians. making and wampum bead making.

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Glass Art Green Briar Nature Center (top and bottom) SANDWICH SANDWICH Mason jars catch the light at the Green Beloved Cape Cod storybook author Briar Nature Center. In the 1900s, they Thornton W. Burgess would have appre- may have held homemade strawberry ciated this whimsical sign on the lawn rhubarb jam or plum chutney from Ida at The Green Briar Nature Center. Putnam’s Jam Kitchen. The Thornton W. The famous Briar Patch, home of Peter Burgess Society offers demonstrations Cottontail, has nature trails through real and classes in the historic Jam Kitchen. briar thickets just like in the stories.

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Rainbow over Shawme Lake (top) Solitary Moment (bottom) The Golden Hour SANDWICH SANDWICH SANDWICH The beautiful spire of the First Church Resident swans share their sanctuary Incorporated in 1639, the historic sea- of Christ, the turning of the leaves, and with a lone fisherman on Shawme Lake. side community of Sandwich was the a perfect rainbow over Shawme Lake The lake is a kettle pond, which is a first town on Cape Cod and is one of cast an enchanting aura over an early body of fresh water created more than the oldest towns in the United States. autumn morning in Sandwich. 18,000 years ago from glacial depres- Its many period homes are especially sions. There are more than 350 kettle lovely when the leaves turn red and ponds on Cape Cod. gold.

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17th-Century Grist Mill (top and bottom) Scenic Boardwalk SANDWICH SANDWICH Fresh ground corn is still available in Traversing more than1,000 feet of marshes, season at Dexter’s Grist Mill on Shawme rivers, and dunes, the Sandwich Board- Lake. Historic features of this circa 1654 walk commands awe-inspiring views. In working grist mill in Sandwich include 1991, Hurricane Bob destroyed it, and ancient stone walls and the residents sold more than 2,000 planks to original millstone. raise money for rebuilding. Names and sentiments are engraved on the planks.

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Sandwich Glass Museum Thornton W. Burgess Museum SANDWICH SANDWICH Sandwich Glass of the 1800s-era is Museum turned 100 in 2007. It now has Thornton W. Burgess, creator of the prized the world over. The factory in more than 5,000 pieces on display in 15 beloved character, Peter Cottontail, is Sandwich was created by Deming Jarves, galleries, and offers demonstrations in honored in his hometown of Sandwich. who perfected the machine that pro- the glass art. Burgess wrote some 15,000 syndicated duces its most famous product. Jarves newspaper stories and 170 children’s and his artisans also made blown, cut, books. The grounds have an award-win- and molded glass. The Sandwich Glass ning herb garden and wildflower garden.

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Research at Work Town Center Stroll (top) Ship Ahoy (bottom) WOODS HOLE WOODS HOLE WOODS HOLE Woods Hole revolves around a scientific Woods Hole is hardly just a destination Art, architecture, and nautical themes community, yet retains the distinctive for oceanography buffs. The village and merge on Water Street, as illustrated by flavor of Old Cape Cod. Organizations its surrounding region also please nature the landmark sculpture protruding from headquartered here include the Woods lovers and epicures; and shoppers the wall of the Candle House. Built in Hole Oceanographic Institution, the delight in the unique blend of stores the 1800s to store whale oil and make Marine Biological Laboratory, and NOAA’s and galleries along the waterfront. spermaceti candles, it now is used by the Northeast Fisheries Science Center. Marine Biological Laboratory.

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Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution U.S. Coast Guard WOODS HOLE WOODS HOLE WHOI (pronounced hoo-eee) is the technology, climate change, global The U.S. Coast Guard Sector South- largest private, nonprofit marine research warming, and polar research. WHOI eastern New England is one of the organization in the world. Its mission is works with universities worldwide, from largest in the United States, with nearly to conduct research to advance and undergraduate to post-doctoral studies. It 2,000 personnel, serving in multiple sta- communicate an understanding of the utilizes state-of-the-art instrumentation, tions including a LORAN (Long Range ocean’s interaction with the Earth. Its including deep submergence vehicles and Aids-to-Navigation Station). focus includes natural hazards, ships and robotic seafloor mapping systems.

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Native Cranberries (top) Watchful Gull (bottom) Beach House (opposite) FALMOUTH FALMOUTH FALMOUTH Peat bogs in Falmouth go red with cran- Food, and the art of acquiring it, is the Window boxes of red geraniums or berries in October when the waterlogged raison d’etre for most species of gulls. other vibrant flowers often provide the cranberries are ready for harvesting. The Unable to crack tough oyster and clam only spot of color in a typical Cape Cod native Cape Cod fruit was said to be shells, they drop them onto rocks and scene. Unlike many summer cottages, an part of the Pilgrims first Thanksgiving then swoop down to scoop out the occasional beach house does have the feast. bounty. comforts of a year-round residence.

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Historic Falmouth Village (top and bottom) Tidal Pond FALMOUTH FALMOUTH To walk through Falmouth is to enter maritime history and life of the period, After their first seaside homes suc- the pages of an artfully illustrated histo- including a re-created early 1800s doc- cumbed to storms and erosion, early ry book. There are shops to explore and tor’s office. Pictured is the memorial to Cape Codders moved to sheltered a cemetery bearing names and dates the Falmouth veterans of World War I waters inland from the coast. The com- from 1735. The Museums on the Green, and the Spanish-American War. bined salt and fresh water ecosystems consisting of two restored 18th-century of tidal ponds support a rich wildlife homes, feature exhibits on whaling and population.

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Falmouth Heights Beach (top) Ferries and Cruises (bottom) A Schooner Moment FALMOUTH FALMOUTH NANTUCKET SOUND The graceful crescent of Falmouth Besides basic transportation between There may not be a sweeter sight on Heights Beach is popular with walkers, the Cape, Martha’s Vineyard, and Nan- a summer day than a three-masted and its shallow inlets make natural tucket there are harbor cruises, canal schooner under full sail, gliding into splash pools for children. cruises, lighthouse-viewing cruises, wine view as it makes its fleeting pass and beer-tasting cruises, and excursions between two golden dunes. to the Elizabeth Islands.

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Gay Head Light (top) Nobska Point Light (bottom) Cliffs of Gay Head MARTHA’S VINEYARD MARTHA’S VINEYARD MARTHA’S VINEYARD High atop the 130-foot-high Aquinnah Nobska Point lighthouse at Woods Hole For two centuries, artists have been Cliffs (Gay Head) of Martha’s Vineyard, is a favorite photo subject from the decks captivated by the play of light on the the picturesque 1799 Gay Head Light of passing boats. The grounds are open multi-colored clay cliffs of Gay Head presides over some of the most treacher- to the public and the lighthouse opens on the western shore of Martha’s ous waters on the New England coast. for scheduled tours. The Keeper’s House Vineyard. The beaches are public; the It is open to the public on weekend is home to the commander of the Coast cliffs themselves, a National Landmark, evenings for sunset tours in summer. Guard sector that manages the station. are off limits for erosion control.

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Mineral Art East Chop Light (top and right) MARTHA’S VINEYARD MARTHA’S VINEYARD Interactions of iron oxide with silts and Once called the Chocolate Lighthouse sediments, silicate and clay minerals, for its original brown color, the solitary with highlights of quartz and charcoal, cast iron 1878 lighthouse stands sentry create the paint-box hues of the Gay 40 feet atop Telegraph Hill at the Head Cliffs. The unique mineral com- “chop,” or entrance, to Vineyard Haven position lures geologists from around Harbor. It mirrors its Tisbury sibling, the world. the West Chop Light.

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Menemsha Harbor (top) PROPERY OF TWIN LIGHTSMARTHA’S VINEYARD PUBLISHERS PROPERY OF TWIN LIGHTS PUBLISHERS The historic Martha’s Vineyard fishing village of Menemsha, with its scenic harbor, is a prime destination for fisher- men and boaters. It also is a starting point for sightseeing charters and cycling excursions. Serenity on Menemsha Pond MARTHA’S VINEYARD Victoria Gazebo (left) There are many tranquil moments on MARTHA’S VINEYARD Menemsha Pond. At other times, sailors Ocean Park, in Oak Bluffs, is surrounded and paddlers thrive on the excitement of by fashionable Victorian, Queen Anne, strong incoming tides and stiff breezes, and Gothic Revival homes. The Victor- especially at the north end of the pond. ian gazebo makes an artful backdrop for summer concerts and fireworks displays.

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Along Tisbury Road Winding Roads (top) Dune Cottages (bottom) MARTHA’S VINEYARD MARTHA’S VINEYARD MARTHA’S VINEYARD Picket fences, gabled cottages swathed Pastoral country roads connect the ham- Sprinkled all along the coastline, just in sun-washed gray cedar shake siding, lets, villages, and towns of Martha’s inland of the dunes, are quaint summer and profusions of summer flowers define Vineyard. From early spring to late fall, houses. Very few have manicured gar- the inviting island nature of Martha’s explorers may encounter sunflower dens; most reflect the true ambience of Vineyard. fields, flower stalls, fruit and vegetable the Vineyard, surrounded by natural stands, and quaint shops that offer vegetation and kitchen gardens. locally produced jams, jellies, and crafts.

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Fashionable Edgartown (left) Black Dog Tavern (right, top and bottom) At Anchor MARTHA’S VINEYARD MARTHA’S VINEYARD MARTHA’S VINEYARD Stately 19th-century sea captains’ man- Clam chowder aficionados must not door. Ferry riders make the adjacent Look for any body of water around the sions blend artfully with interesting miss the opportunity to savor what some bakery their last stop before heading Vineyard and you’re sure to spot a fish- shops and galleries, antique stores, deem to be the best chow-dah in New back across the harbor. ing boat, sailboat, kayak, or canoe at museums, and eateries along the narrow England. The Black Dog Tavern, just rest. It’s what they do here. This one streets of Edgartown, Martha’s Vineyard, west of Vineyard Haven center, is hard was last seen bobbing peacefully at which overlooks one of America’s finest to miss, with its vintage 1914 rail car Hartsville Inlet. yacht harbors. and the black dog presiding over the

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Cruising to the Vineyard Sunrise at West Chop Light MARTHA’S VINEYARD MARTHA’S VINEYARD High-speed transport to Martha’s From its humble beginnings as a 25-foot Vineyard includes first-class charters, rubblestone structure, the pristine white with comfortable inside as well as deck lighthouse with its pretty, red-roofed seating to catch the breezes and views. keeper’s house has served mariners for A trip between Falmouth and Oak Bluffs nearly two centuries. The active Coast (Martha’s Vineyard) takes 35 to 55 min- Guard station, closed to the public, is utes, depending on speed and vessel. visible from West Chop Road.

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Edgartown Light (opposite) Beach Roses (above) MARTHA’S VINEYARD MARTHA’S VINEYARD Originally built on pilings in the harbor, A rainbow palette of blues, greens, yel- Edgartown Light eventually became lows, and pinks along Oak Bluff Road landlocked by shifting sands. Legend compels travelers to stop and smell the says it was a favorite spot for one last beach roses. Similar views are common kiss before whalers went out to sea, throughout Martha’s Vineyard. earning its nickname “Bridge of Sighs.”

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Vineyard Sound Harbor Chowder, Lobsters, and Ambience (top) Number Two Old South Wharf (bottom) NANTUCKET NANTUCKET NANTUCKET When the fish aren’t biting, one can The Straight Wharf Fish Store on The gallery of popular sculptor David always pull up a chair and enjoy the Nantucket gives the Vineyard’s Black Hostetler is one of many treasures await- view. These particular chairs, patiently Dog Tavern a bit of friendly competition ing discovery in the weathered gray awaiting their owners, overlook with its own homemade clam chowder. and white fish houses along the wharf. Vineyard Sound Harbor on Martha’s Chowder and lobster taste better when Nantucket is a thriving artist’s haven Vineyard. enjoyed on the harborfront dock. with nearly 50 galleries and dozens more artisans’ home studios.

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Bicycling the Island (above) PROPERY OF TWIN LIGHTSNANTUCKET PUBLISHERS PROPERY OF TWIN LIGHTS PUBLISHERS For a true Nantucket experience, one must slip down back roads and travel beside the crests of cliffs and dunes. The best views are often enjoyed from the seat of a bicycle. Cycling is the primary way locals get around their island. Another Dawn in Paradise NANTUCKET Window Boxes (left) The silent salt air and the gentle slap of NANTUCKET waves early on a Nantucket morning The question is not whether to have a give no hint of the bustle of activity to window box, but what to plant in it. come. Artists frequently set up their Boxes, baskets, pots, and even old easels to capture such moments in oils, boats, spill over with flowers from chalks, watercolors, and pastels. May to October.

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PROPERY OF TWIN GoingLIGHTS Somewhere? PUBLISHERS (above) PROPERY OF TWIN LIGHTS PUBLISHERS NANTUCKET Some folks would wonder why you’d want to, if you’re standing here at Gardiner’s Corner in Nantucket Town; but here are the coordinates, just in case. Meet Me at the Hub Cobblestones (left) NANTUCKET NANTUCKET “Meet me at the Hub” is a common Big sailing ships needed ballast for stabi- phrase among Nantucket visitors, who lization, and England had plenty of big love the tree-shaded benches, wide gas- stones to spare. Once the ships were lit cobblestone streets, brick sidewalks, unloaded on Nantucket, the irregular and 19th century buildings-turned- shaped and earth-hued stones were laid boutiques in the center of town. out as a track for heavy horse carts.

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Stunning Sunsets (top) Sandy Neck Light (bottom) Stage Island (opposite) BARNSTABLE BARNSTABLE BARNSTABLE Like snowflakes, no two sunsets are Since 1931, when its beacon was deacti- Luxury living combined with a front row alike. The brilliant lavender, red, or vated, the lighthouse in Barnstable seat at Mother Nature’s theater defines orange afterglow of a summer sunset Harbor has been of no help to lost life on Stage Island. Just five feet above often is even more spectacular than the mariners. It stood headless for 75 years sea level, the island overlooks salt marsh sunset itself. until October 2007, when, to great fan- and the Bass River. fare and fireworks, the light was restored. The lighthouse is privately owned.

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Long and Winding Roads (opposite) Landscaping with Boats (above) CAPE COD BARNSTABLE The first rule of thumb when exploring Nearly everyone in these parts either has this region is simple: get off the beaten a boat or access to one. When its nauti- path. People who follow the back roads, cal days come to an end, many a small while respecting private property, are boat finds new life as a landscaping rewarded with visual pleasures that accent for a park or a summer cottage. highway travelers miss.

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For Grownups Too Centerville Historical Museum MASHPEE CENTERVILLE The Cape Cod Children’s Museum in Tucked inside this 1840 house are a mar- Mashpee is just plain fun, with a pirate itime gallery, a 19th-century schoolroom ship, a rowboat, and a train to climb and a Colonial Revival kitchen, as well aboard, as well as a planetarium, a as artifacts, uniforms, and toys reflecting puppet theater, a toddler play area, the history of Centerville. The gift shop and family-friendly interactive exhibits. carries unique collectibles from antique sailors’ Valentine pins to local crafts.

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Wind Power (top) Aunt Betty’s Pond (bottom) Sunrise Over Hyannis HYANNIS HYANNIS HYANNIS Special fencing protects the fragile sands Little is known about Aunt Betty except Gold-infused sea grasses and a pink- of Kalmus Beach against erosion due to that in the 1800s she had an apple tinged dawn sky greet early risers on powerful summer thermal winds. Those orchard bordering her namesake pond. Hyannis beaches. At this hour, the sand same winds make Kalmus Beach a para- Cape Cod was named for a fish, and it’s is still pleasantly cool, and the only foot- dise for windsurfing and kitesurfing. unclear whether the name Martha’s Vine- prints are those of the egrets and gulls. Facilities include a picnic area, conces- yard honors founder Bartholomew This wooden bridge at Colonial Way is sions, showers, and a lifeguard station. Grosnold’s daughter or his mother in law. one of many in Hyannis.

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John F. Kennedy Memorial (above) HYANNIS PROPERY OF TWIN LIGHTSA bronze medallion PUBLISHERS featuring the profile PROPERY OF TWIN LIGHTS PUBLISHERS of beloved Hyannis citizen, and 35th U.S. President John F. Kennedy is imbedded in a stone wall facing Lewis Bay. The wall overlooks a small park with a fountain and benches.

JFK Museum (left) Hyannis Harbor HYANNIS HYANNIS A life-size bronze statue by sculptor Stately yachts, weathered fishing boats, David Lewis depicts JFK walking bare- and ferry boats share the busy Hyannis foot, as he was remembered, along the Harbor, where picturesque wharfside beach in Hyannis Port. The museum’s restaurants are gathering places for video gallery, hosted by Walter Cronkite, boaters, land tourists, and locals. The features hundreds of photographs of the harbor is walking distance to the JFK 35th president’s time on Cape Cod. Museum, shops, and the train depot.

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Cape Cod Central Railroad (top and bottom) Toad Hall Classic Sports Car Museum HYANNIS HYANNIS All aboard the shiny red train at the Toad, the Lord of Toad Hall (Wind in the Hyannis Depot for a ride into the 1840s. Willows), loved red motorcars. So does Passengers enjoy gourmet dinners in vin- Bill Putman, the owner of the Simmons tage dining cars, or sightseeing through Homestead Inn, in Hyannis Port. His the Cape Cod landscape. The railroad private collection of more than 50 red teams up with Hy-Line Cruises for rail- classic cars is open for public viewing sail trips to the Kennedy compound. for a small admission.

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St. Francis Xavier Church (above and left) Old Time Carousel (top) Cape Cod Potato Chips (bottom) HYANNIS HYANNIS HYANNIS White columns, arches, salmon-pink The Cape Cod Carousel & Fun House A whopping 250,000 people a year walls, and inspired stained glass art Arcade in downtown Hyannis is a make the pilgrimage to the factory define the beautiful Roman Catholic popular family tradition for vacationers. where the legendary kettle-cooked sanctuary in Hyannis where the Naturally, there’s ice cream and cotton Cape Cod Potato Chips, as well as Kennedy clan worshipped and married, candy, as well as kiddie rides and minia- popcorn, tortilla chips, and salsa, are and where John F. Kennedy was an ture golf. made.Tours are free and everyone altar boy. gets to taste.

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Shopping Yarmouth (top) Edward Gorey House (bottom) Captain Bangs Hallet House WEST YARMOUTH YARMOUTH YARMOUTH Shopping, shopping, and more shopping Among the oldest houses in Yarmouth is Most of the original sea captains’ homes are just three reasons to visit the charm- the home of Edward Gorey (1925-2000), throughout Cape Cod, dating back to ing Cape Cod village of West Yarmouth. the eccentric author, artist, playwright, the 1800s, are privately owned, so this The Antiques Center of Yarmouth has set designer, and animal rights activist. one offers a rare glimpse into the life- more than 100 vendors, and nearby is The home-turned-museum celebrates style of the wealthy mariners. The muse- the charming thatch-roofed home of the period architecture as well as Gorey’s um houses treasures from China, mar- famous Christmas Tree Shop. creative genius. itime art and artifacts, and more.

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Judah Baker Windmill (top and opposite) Black-eyed Susans (bottom) YARMOUTH CAPE COD Judah Baker’s windmill, circa 1791, A summertime rite of passage is the withstood more than two centuries of flashy display of black-eyed susans, like weather, nearly a century of milling this one in Hyannis, that occur all over grain, and the indignity of several moves Cape Cod and the islands. from village to village. Now restored, it resides prettily at the public Windmill Park on the Bass River in Yarmouth.

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Swan Pond Timeless Beauty (above) Night on Bass River (pages 72–73) DENNIS DENNIS DENNIS Adirondack chairs in gardens and at In many places, the serenity of Cape In the pre-dawn stillness, before Cape water’s edge are a common sight Cod’s marsh-fringed waterways seems Cod awakes, there’s barely a ripple in throughout Cape Cod, Martha’s Vine- little changed in hundreds of years. the water, and even the birds have not yard, and Nantucket. Their pretty colors One might imagine a Wampanoag begun to think about breakfast. In a few make an artful foreground for the sum- dugout canoe gliding silently along a hours the scene will be transformed like mery blues and greens of Swan Pond, canoe trail, with only the scream of a a theater set, bustling with recreational an authentic Cape Cod kettle pond. circling hawk to break the silence. and commercial fishing activity.

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Herring River (top) Howes Beach (bottom) Magical Sunset DENNIS DENNIS DENNIS A single red boat on a vast watery land- Pristine white sands and gentle dunes No matter where you’re headed at the scape inspires the artist’s imagination. make the Dennis coastline a choice spot sunset hour, sometimes you’ll just have Equally inspiring is the Herring River’s for family photos and beach weddings. to be a few minutes late, as happened rich history of cranberry farms, herring Favorable winds draw kiteboarders to one magic evening somewhere along the and alewife (shad) fisheries. Due to the Dennis, particularly to Howe’s Beach Bass River in Dennis. Fortunately, there threatened population, herring runs have and West Dennis Beach. Chapin Beach are plenty of perfect spots along the been closed on Cape Cod in recent years. is among the most beautiful in the world. roadsides to pull off and gawk in safety.

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Rich Heritage (opposite) DENNIS PROPERY OF TWIN LIGHTSThe culture and heritage PUBLISHERS of Cape Cod is PROPERY OF TWIN LIGHTS PUBLISHERS expressed from the architecture of the museum building itself to the interactive presentations, permanent and traveling exhibitions, lectures, artist programs, classes, and field trips.

Cape Cod Museum of Art (above and left) DENNIS A majestic eagle with an eight-foot wingspan welcomes visitors to the Cape Cod Museum of art in Dennis, where more than 1,800 works of art celebrate local and regional talent. The eagle is part of the Birds of Steel series by Cape Cod artist Del Filardi.

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Flowering Fruit Trees (top) Harwich Beach Dunes (bottom) Protected Coves (top) Wychmere Harbor (bottom) HARWICH HARWICH HARWICH HARWICHPORT Among Cape Cod’s showiest heralds of Barely a ripple mars the perfect stillness Those marvelous winds that make Cape One of the prettiest harbors in all of springtime is the awe-inspiring flowering of a cloudless spring afternoon along Cod a world sailing center also can turn New England is Wychmere, ringed with cherry tree on the lawn of the Christian Highway 6, where a lone pine tree into the powerful gales and nor’easters grand homes, country clubs, and a mari- Science Church of Harwich. Through- stands watch over the Harwich Beach that give Cape Cod its character. But na; where a typical summer day will out the Cape, springtime reveals her dunes. there is no shortage of peaceful harbors host more than 100 pleasure boats, soft side with a profusion of flowering and sheltered coves like the one in private cruise and deep-sea fishing cherry, apple, and peach trees. Harwichport. charter boats.

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Cape-Style Stores (opposite, top and bottom) 50 Golf Courses (above) HARWICH HARWICHPORT With more than 20 beaches in Harwich Cape Cod and the islands, with their alone, there’s quite a demand for sup- dramatic seaside links and distinctive plies, and the Town Center of Harwich inland courses, rank among the top golf offers it all in quaint and charming style. destinations in the country. Some, like There also are galleries and boutiques, the Harwichport Golf Course pictured including the popular Adventures in here, have been designed as integral Knitting, Cape Cod’s oldest yarn shop. parts of historic villages.

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Springtime on the Cape (above and left) Atwood House Museum CHATHAM CHATHAM It’s showtime in April and May for the Captain Atwood’s 1752 home and many tulip, daffodil, burning bush, and a vari- of its period furnishings have been ety of dogwood and fruit trees. One faithfully maintained by the Chatham event not to miss is Daffodil Days at Historical Society. On the grounds is a Falmouth’s Spohr Gardens. re-created 1940s fishing camp. The light from the old Chatham lighthouse flashes during museum hours.

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Chatham Lighthouse (above and left) CHATHAM Old sailors still whisper of ghostly horsemen swinging their lanterns on Cape Cod Style moonless, stormy nights, luring mariners CHATHAM to their doom. Some called them moon cussers. Whether due to ghosts, cussers Cedar shake siding, gables, balconies, or nature, the Chatham Lighthouse itself wide verandahs, and pretty white fences has twice succumbed to brutal storms. were favored features of homes built in After the Chatham Light received state- Chatham during the 18th and 19th cen- of-the-art aerobeacons, its beautiful turies. Some of the thick hedge walls Fresnel lens was acquired by the have been tended for more than a Atwood House Museum. century.

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Art and Candy (above) Chatham Railroad Museum (above) CHATHAM CHATHAM PROPERY OF TWINArtistic hand-carvedLIGHTS signs— PUBLISHERSand often PROPERYFish were its first passengers,OF TWIN and salt LIGHTS PUBLISHERS the fragrance of homemade candy or exports were the first freight when the pastries—entice customers into the railroad opened in 1887. Later, vacation- locally owned sweet shops that are ers flocked to the colorful Victorian interspersed with fine galleries and bou- gothic depot. Retired in 1937, the old tiques on Chatham’s Main Street. depot has been a museum since 1960.

Monomoy Theatre (left) Red Caboose (right) CHATHAM CHATHAM Every summer for 50 years, members of Restored to its 1910 perfection, the little the critically acclaimed Ohio University red caboose that logged more than a Players have commuted to their 1930s million miles in the New York Central era theater in Chatham, where they per- System now delights railroad buffs and form to sold-out audiences with produc- children in Chatham. tions that range from Broadway musicals to Shakespeare.

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Museum of Natural History (above and left) Brewster Ladies Library (above and right) BREWSTER BREWSTER Abutted by three hundred acres of con- Back in 1852, when it was started by servation land, this 80-acre site is nature twelve ladies from the town, male bor- at her best. There are honeybee hives, rowers were required to pay a bit more an aquarium, and even a live osprey cam. than the ladies. The free community The museum has an active calendar of library still is a private institution main- lectures and events, including the popu- tained by The Brewster Ladies Library lar Wednesday Walks around the Cape. Association.

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Brewster Flats Dip Me in the Water (top) Oyster Farming (bottom) BREWSTER BREWSTER BREWSTER Powerful receding tides on Cape Cod A cool dip in the ocean is a perfect Cape Cod is famous for its succulent Bay expose over a mile of ocean floor. way to finish a long bike ride along oysters, and the Dennis Oyster, grown at The resulting landscape, called the unspoiled marshlands and quiet beaches. the farm of John and Stephanie Lowell Brewster Flats, is said to be the widest For those who don’t bring their own, on Quivet Creek, was crowned the expanse of tidal flats in North America. there are more than 50 places to rent favorite at the Cape Cod Oyster Festi- Crabs, clams, and other mollusks remain bikes throughout the Cape, Martha’s val. The oyster farm is tended when spe- temporarily stranded in the tidal pools. Vineyard, and Nantucket. cially-made gear is exposed at low tide.

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High Tide (top) Sand Bars Exposed (bottom) Paine’s Creek (top) Ripples in the Sand (bottom) BREWSTER WEST BREWSTER BREWSTER BREWSTER When visiting one of Brewster’s ocean- Shimmery white tips of sandbars begin While several of the beaches, especially At low tide, marsh grasses and tidal side beaches, the decision must be to appear as the tide recedes on Brewster Crosby’s Beach, are ideal for long walks markings are exposed, transforming the whether one wants to walk or swim. beaches. All seven beaches have conven- at surf’s edge, those seeking a spot away sand into an artist’s canvas of golden rip- Those who would rather play in the surf ient parking. Swimmers find the water from foot traffic to park a beach chaise ples, marked only with the footprints of than explore the tidal pools should plan on the bay side to be warmer and calmer may prefer Paine’s Creek Beach. sea birds searching for their breakfast. their arrival near high tide. than on the ocean side.

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Golden Sunrise Jonathan Young Mill (top) Uncle Seth’s Pond (bottom) ORLEANS ORLEANS ORLEANS Dawn breaks like a golden curtain rising Adjacent to Town Cove is a picturesque The family-friendly warm water pond on the little fleet of vessels at rest in windmill built more than two and a half with the sandy bottom is as cozy as its Town Cove. The sheltered cove lies at centuries ago. Though retired from its name. Peaceful and fringed with a the end of Nauset Marsh in Orleans. job of milling corn, its works still func- grassy lawn, the little Orleans beach is tion, and guides are on hand for tours. especially popular with families.

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Gentle Slopes (top and bottom) The Sisters (top) Coast Guard Beach (bottom) ORLEANS EASTHAM EASTHAM Nauset Beach (top) and Skaket Beach Once there were three demure ladies in The forty-mile stretch of beach that (bottom) are gently sloped white sand white dresses and black hats. The 15-foot Henry David Thoreau named the great beaches. With a nine-foot tidal change, lighthouses, dubbed the Three Sisters of Outer Beach starts at the tip of Nauset a dramatic transformation takes place at Nauset, distinguished Eastham from Spit, just south of the former Coast Guard low tide. Bits of seaweed and shells are North Truro and Chatham. The red and surf-rescue station. It is now managed by often caught in lush sea grasses, which white Nauset Light was brought from the National Park Service and is consid- are fully submerged during high tide. Chatham to represent the Three Sisters. ered one of the best beaches in the U.S.

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Picture Window Sunrises and Sunsets (top) Wooden Boat Magic (bottom) EASTHAM EASTHAM EASTHAM The Eastham Visitor Center on the Cape The first and last hour of each day Wooden boat enthusiasts keep sharp Cod National Seashore has excellent brings a different light and a different eyes out for visual treasures on canals interpretive programs, a fine museum, mood. At first light, it may be the prom- and ponds of Cape Cod, Martha’s Vine- and a bookstore. One of its most com- ise of a great day’s catch. As the setting yard, and Nantucket. Occasionally, one pelling attractions is the spectacular sun turns the world golden, it’s the feel- is rewarded with a chance encounter like panoramic view of marsh, pond, beach, ing—for at least a moment—that all’s the perfect red specimen spotted early ocean, and sky. right with the world. one morning on Collins Pond.

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Nauset Light Beach Alone in a Crowd EASTHAM EASTHAM A solitary lifeguard stand emphasizes The breathtaking scale of Nauset Beach the vastness of the beach and dunes at makes it nearly impossible to appear Nauset Beach, on one of America’s most crowded, even on a summer Sunday spectacular coastlines. Strong receding morning. The beach stretches for ten tides in winter often expose the remains miles to Orleans, with special sections of one of the Three Sisters lights. reserved for permitted off-road vehicles.

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Bird Watching (top) Wildlife Sanctuary (bottom) Breakers (top) Mini-Vacation (botom) WELLFLEET WELLFLEET WELLFLEET WELLFLEET The Outer Cape, which begins in Orleans The Audubon-managed Wellfleet Bay Rolling waves on LeCount Hollow Beach The sand of LeCount Hollow Beach is and encompasses Eastham, Wellfleet, Wildlife Sanctuary is set on 1,100 acres bring to mind a quote from Henry close to the road, making a quick Truro, and Provincetown, shelters a of marshes, woodlands, and ponds. It Beston’s book, The Outermost House: “The lunchtime beach escape easy for locals. diverse population of songbirds and includes hummingbird and butterfly gar- volutes of the breakers approach, tum- Families with small children enjoy the shore birds. Birders can follow self- dens, and offers naturalist-guided marine ble, and dissolve, and over the glisten, shallow, wider than average tidal pools, guided trails or join naturalist walks from life cruises and excursions to Monomoy the foam, and moist, sea-fragrant air still which are several degrees warmer than the Wellfleet Bay Wildlife Sanctuary. National Wildlife Reserve in Chatham. fly the small shorebirds hastening.” the ocean.

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Sunrise (top) Parabolic Dunes (bottom) Cahoon Hollow Beach WELLFLEET WELLFLEET WELLFLEET In the ephemeral moments between the Sand dunes make ideal hosts for hardy A sandy path fringed in sea grasses and first hint of dawn and the promise of a vegetation that thrives on salty winds flowers meanders down the massive gorgeous summer day, both sea and sky and dry soil. In return, dune grass and dunes to the Cahoon Hollow Beach, are bathed in light, infused with laven- other plants such as chokecherry, bear- where there are neither stairs nor signs, der, red, and gold. A sailor’s forecast berry, beach heather, and lichen serve or any other obstructions to mar the nat- states, “Red sky in the morning, sailors take as anchors to protect the dunes from ural views of sea and sand. warning. Red sky at night, sailors delight.” erosion and wind destruction.

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Outermost Cottages The Lobster Man (top) No Child Left Inside (bottom) WELLFLEET WELLFLEET WELLFLEET No phone, televison, or internet are Repeat visitors to the National Seashore The National Park Service maintains the among key selling points of the Cook eagerly watch for their first glimpse of Cape Cod National Seashore, with an family’s 14 dune-top cottages. Those the famous lobsterman, built atop a extensive calendar of guided walks and wishing to experience the Cape Cod of restaurant in Wellfleet. The building talks, interactive exhibits and fascinating Henry Beston’s , The Outermoust House, will may change names but the hardy lob- children’s programs such as the outdoor find the ambience almost unchanged sterman has remained for years. adventure, “No Child Left Inside.” since its writing more than 80 years ago.

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Wellfleet Harbor Actor’s Theater (top) Slice of Americana (bottom) Reflect on This (opposite) WELLFLEET WELLFLEET WELLFLEET WHAT earned critical acclaim for more The more things change, the more they This Wellfleet scene showcases all the than 20 years with only a glued-together stay the same. Young lemonade vendors elements of the quintessential Cape Cod former nightclub. It recently christened take advantage of the summer traffic neighborhood, right down to the walk- the Julie Harris Stage, a state-of-the-art, along Main Street in Wellfleet to earn ing bridge and the church tower. 200-seat venue to showcase its cutting- spending money for themselves and edge theater productions. The theater is extra for a worthy cause. So please, located at 2357 Route 6. don’t forget the tip.

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Hatch’s Fish & Produce Market (top) Wellfleet Flea Market (bottom) Cape Cod Souvenirs WELLFLEET WELLFLEET WELLFLEET Young Cliff Hatch started his business Treasure hunters descend on the Well- Beach-goers lacking their buckets and half a century ago selling fresh fish door fleet Drive-in-Theater every weekend, shovels can find all they need at this to door from his pickup truck. Today, to sort through the bounty of as many roadside shop. Pick up a starfish float, people wait in line when the fish comes as 300 sellers during the high season. sunscreen, and some salt water taffy for off the boats. Hatch’s also carries organ- Antiques, garage sale items, housewares, a snack… and stop on your way home ic produce, cut flowers, and homemade crafts, and probably the kitchen sink, for just the right souvenir. honey and jams from area farms. are waiting to be bargained for.

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Truro Vineyard Cape Cod Light TRURO TRURO Vineyard and winery tours and tastings Henry David Thoreau slept in this Truro a tempest; take up your residence on the add a heady flavor to the Cape Cod lighthouse, which had the first flashing top of Mount Washington, or at the experience at the Roberts family vine- light in the United States. Originally Highland Light.” yard. The Truro Vineyard produces nine called Highland Light, it overlooks one maritime wines on a former 1830s era of the largest graveyards of wrecked farm. There’s a lovely gift shop in the ships on the Cape. In his book, Cape Cod, restored 19th century Federal house. Thoreau wrote: “[to] feel the full force of

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PRINTER PLEASE NOTE: NEW VERSION OF THIS IMAGE WILL NOT HAVE THE CAST SHADOW AT RIGHT.

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Longnook Beach Going Barefoot TRURO TRURO The colorful beach umbrellas, crowds of Apparently it’s easier to walk barefoot in swimmers and sunbathers, and even the the soft sand at the base of massive sand rolling surf are dwarfed by the sheer dunes, if masses of abandoned footwear magnitude of the dunes at Longnook give any clue. Soaring more than 100 Beach. Those seeking solitude and miles feet over the tide line, the dunes at of unspoiled nature need only step a few Truro are the highest on Cape Cod. yards away from the nearest parking lot.

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View from the Monument (top and bottom) Pilgrim Monument (opposite) PROVINCETOWN PROVINCETOWN The Pilgrim Monument yields some of Many people are unaware that the Thanksgiving Day involves approxi- the most spectacular views in New Mayflower landed first in Provincetown mately 3,500 lights, which remain England. In Provincetown Harbor, fish- Harbor. It is where the Mayflower illuminated through New Year’s Day. ing trawlers and sightseeing boats add Contract was drawn up and the first dimension to the view of pleasure boats child born to Pilgrims in New England along the docks. The natural harbor is a was born here. The Traditional Lighting mile long and three miles wide. of the Monument ceremony on

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Artful Ascent Town Crier Bells and More (top and bottom) PROVINCETOWN PROVINCETOWN In 1907, President Theodore Roosevelt From the bells and attire of town criers, grims and Provincetown history, the sailed to Provincetown on the presiden- to artifacts and replications of the ever-changing exhibitions keep the tial yacht, Mayflower, to lay the corner- Mayflower, the Provincetown Museum museum experience fresh. The museum stone of the Pilgrim Monument. There brings history to life. Its collection even and monument together, locally called are 60 ramps and 116 steps to the top of includes the town’s first fire engine, built PMPM (Pilgrim Monument and Pro- the nearly 253-foot monument, which is by an apprentice of Paul Revere. While vincetown Museum) are on High Pole the tallest granite structure in America. the primary focus is on the Mayflower pil- Hill Road overlooking the town center.

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Whydah Museum PROVINCETOWN The Whydah Gally, wrecked in a 1717 nor’easter off the coast of Cape Cod, PAAM was a pirate ship under the command of PROVINCETOWN the dastardly Black Sam Bellamy. The first authenticated pirate wreck ever Reclining Nude by Penelope Jencks wel- found, its salvage operation by The comes guests to the Provincetown Art National Geographic Society has been Association and Museum. The museum in progress for two decades. Interactive houses historic and contemporary per- displays, weaponry, ship models, and manent collections, and hosts world pieces of eight are among the museum class traveling exhibitions, concerts, treasures. and art classes.

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Nice Buoys (top) Chariots for Hire (bottom) Commercial Street PROVINCETOWN PROVINCETOWN PROVINCETOWN To lobstermen, a buoy is like a personal Locals book their PediCab chariots The rainbow-hued main street of fingerprint. Distinctive patterns of bars months in advance for the outrageous Provincetown is one of the happiest and hues make it easy to identify traps. and colorful annual Provincetown carni- spots on the Cape. Fine art, jewelry, After a storm, dislodged buoys make val. PediCab rides add to the ambience antique, and clothing boutiques rub bright finds for beachcombers. The col- of Provincetown for visitors by offering shoulders on Commercial Street with orful buoy wall at Townsend Lobster Co. a variety of specialty tours from galleries lively cabarets, quirky kitsch emporiums, is a popular Provincetown landmark. to graveyards. and quaint B&Bs.

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On The Water Dune Shacks (top) Flying In (bottom) PROVINCETOWN PROVINCETOWN PROVINCETOWN Beachy summer rental cottages and sea- Scattered atop isolated grassy dunes in The single runway at Provincetown side restaurants dominate the picture- the Provincelands are 19 artful shanties; Municipal Airport stays busy with more postcard view of Provincetown Harbor all that remain of a1920s-era writers’ col- than 250 general aviation flights a day, from the MacMillan Pier. The pier is the ony. Built in the 1800s to shelter ship- along with the year-round operations of center of lively activity, from whale wreck rescue crews, the shacks became its one commercial airline, Cape Air. tours to commercial fishing to colorful retreats for literary giants cummings, processions and the annual Pier Dance. Kerouac, Mailer, O’Neill and others.

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Pilgrim Lake (top) Rooftop in the Dunes (bottom) Grand Entrance PROVINCETOWN PROVINCETOWN PROVINCETOWN Pilgrim Lake, or as it is historically The massive scale of the Provincetown The expansive blue waters of Pilgrim known, East Harbor, is one of Cape dunes is evidenced by the dwarfed Lake on the approach from Truro to Cod’s original inner harbors. The stark, rooftop of a large home tucked into the Provincetown invoke a breathtaking wind-swept dunes that rise right out of treeline. The Cape Cod National sensation of being embraced by the sea. the water afford breathtaking views. Seashore encompasses more than 43,000 acres and thirty-plus miles of unbroken shoreline.

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Wisteria as Art (top) Secret Lanes (bottom) PROVINCETOWN PROVINCETOWN Residents of Cape Cod, Martha’s Vine- Charming cottages and landscapes are yard, and Nantucket are famous for their tucked cozily along narrow, unpaved dedication to their cottages and their lanes. Here in this magical place where gardens. This stunning display of wiste- American history began, there’s sure to ria and matching shutters begs the ques- be another discovery just around the tion: will the paint colors change with next bend in the road. the gardening season?

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