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PROPERY OF TWIN LIGHTS PUBLISHERS PROPERY OF TWIN LIGHTS PUBLISHERS PROPERY OF TWIN LIGHTS PUBLISHERS PROPERY OF TWIN LIGHTS PUBLISHERS PROPERY OF TWIN LIGHTS PUBLISHERS PROPERY OF TWIN LIGHTS PUBLISHERS Cape Cod Martha’s Vineyard & Nantucket PROPERY OF TWIN LIGHTS PUBLISHERS PROPERY OF TWIN LIGHTS PUBLISHERS PROPERY OF TWIN LIGHTS PUBLISHERS PROPERY OF TWIN LIGHTS PUBLISHERS FPO 02IMG_7710.tif digital art on New Disk 1 PROPERY OF TWIN LIGHTS PUBLISHERS PROPERY OF TWIN LIGHTS PUBLISHERS A PHOTOGRAPHIC PORTRAIT PHOTOGRAPHY BY Paul Scharff NARRATIVE BY Karen T. Bartlett Copyright © 2008 by Twin Lights Publishers, Inc. All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced in any form without written permission of the copyright owners. All images in this book have been repro- duced with the knowledge and prior con- sent of the artists concerned and no respon- sibility is accepted by producer, publisher, or printer for any infringement of copyright or otherwise, arising from the contents of this publication. Every effort has been made to ensure that credits accurately comply with information supplied. First published in the United States of America by: Twin Lights Publishers, Inc. 8 Hale Street Rockport, Massachusetts 01966 Telephone: (978) 546-7398 http://www.twinlightspub.com ISBN: 1-885435-83-5 ISBN: 978-1-885435-83-5 PROPERY OF TWIN LIGHTS PUBLISHERS PROPERY OF TWIN LIGHTS PUBLISHERS 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Waiting it Out (opposite) FIRST ENCOUNTER BEACH, EASTHAM Powerful receding tides along the coast of Cape Cod can expose a mile or more of ocean bottom,PROPERY leaving OFsculpted TWIN sand LIGHTS PUBLISHERS PROPERY OF TWIN LIGHTS PUBLISHERS formations, sparkling ribbons of shallow water, and an occasional boat. (frontispiece) LECOUNT HOLLOW BEACH, WELLFLEET (jacket front) HOWES BEACH, DENNIS PROPERY OF TWIN LIGHTS PUBLISHERS PROPERY OF TWIN LIGHTS PUBLISHERS (jacket back) APTUCXET TRADING POST, BOURNE Narrative by Karen T. Bartlett www.karentbartlett.com A former resident of New England, Bartlett is an award-winning travel writer whose work appears in books, magazines and newspapers throughout North America and the Caribbean. Special thanks to Debra and Ken Traugot, innkeepers/owners of the Beechwood Inn; to Stephanie and John Lowell, owners of East Dennis Oyster Farm; and to William DeSousa-Mauk, Vice President of Michael Patrick Communications, for going above and beyond to help in our quest for accu- racy and timeliness in the preparation of this book. Book design by: SYP Design & Production, Inc. www.sypdesign.com Printed in China “ ...you’re sure to fall in love with old Cape Cod.” he historic seaside communities of Cape including Black Sam Bellamy’s pirate ship that went Cod, Martha’s Vineyard, and Nantucket down in 1717. stir the souls of artists and photographers, From historic Sandwich at Cape Cod’s upper arm, T romantics, and scholars. A skyline of to its oyster-rich elbow, to the vibrant and colorful lighthouses, windmills and church spires, accented art colony of Provincetown at its fist, the Cape with a kaleidoscope of colorful wooden boats and encompasses 413 square miles. Martha’s Vineyard rainbow-hued lobster buoys, are set against land covers 100 square miles, and tiny Nantucket—once and seascapes of tranquil ponds, raging surf, and the whaling capital of the world—is tucked into just heather-covered moors. Parabolic dunes that rise 80 50 square miles. Throughout the 563 square-mile to 100 feet inspire breathtaking awe. maritime landscape are hundreds of fine art gal- Abundant wildlife draws bird-watchers and natu- leries, artisans studios and craft boutiques. A strik- ralists, while sports enthusiasts come for unparal- ing, 252-foot high monument celebrates the fact leled sailing, fishing, kayaking, and kiteboarding. that it was the tip of Cape Cod, not Plymouth, PROPERYWhile cars OF TWINmay often LIGHTS be necessaryPUBLISHERS for some ven- where thePROPERY Mayflower OF TWINfirst landed. LIGHTS PUBLISHERS tures, the most delightful ways to experience Cape Local museums are rich with treasures, from qua- Cod, Martha’s Vineyard and Nantucket are on foot, hog-shell wampum to pirate pieces of eight; from by bicycle, and by boat. There are more than 100 Mayflower Pilgrim-related artifacts to treasures from miles of dedicated bicycle paths, endless miles of the heyday of whaling. A wealth of 17th to 20th winding country lanes, and pristine wooded and century collections range from the bells of town seaside trails. criers to John F. Kennedy’s personal family photos. PROPERYThere OF are TWIN sleepy LIGHTS villages PUBLISHERS and gentrified towns; The CapePROPERY is the OF home TWIN of LIGHTS Peter Cottontail PUBLISHERS and vintage railroads and historic bridges; salty fish- Sandwich Glass. It was here, at America’s oldest ing wharves and fashionable yacht harbors. With professional summer theater, that legendary stars architecture ranging from sea captains’ mansions to like Bette Davis, Humphrey Bogart, and Gregory quintessential seaside cottages including an entire Peck made their stage debuts, and famed play- village of Victorian Gingerbread houses—Cape wrights, the likes of Eugene O’Neill and Tennessee Cod, Martha’s Vineyard, and Nantucket are the Williams, wrote and saw some of their first plays PROPERYstuff of artists’OF TWIN dreams. LIGHTS PUBLISHERS produced.PROPERY OF TWIN LIGHTS PUBLISHERS Few beaches on earth compare with the forty Whether you come to research the deepest unbroken miles of windswept seashore on Cape secrets of the ocean, celebrate the ancestry of Cod, immortalized in Henry David Thoreau’s 1865 America, or experience the endless beauty of it all; book, Cape Cod. The dramatic, multi-hued mineral whether you live here, or simply come for a steam- cliffs of Martha’s Vineyard lure geologists to ing bowl of clam chowder and a taste of the most explore their mysteries. Centuries of powerful tides succulent oysters in the world, may Paul Scharff’s and violent nor’easters have created one of the evocative photography on these pages keep the largest shipwreck graveyards on the Atlantic Coast, memories fresh, and bring you back again. Brant Point Light (opposite) NANTUCKET Near the Nantucket ferry landing, stand- ing just 26 feet tall, Brant Point Light occupies the site of the second light- house built in America, 30 years after Boston Light. Though destroyed many times by fire and wind, the spirit of the original remains intact. 4 PROPERY OF TWIN LIGHTS PUBLISHERS PROPERY OF TWIN LIGHTS PUBLISHERS PROPERY OF TWIN LIGHTS PUBLISHERS PROPERY OF TWIN LIGHTS PUBLISHERS PROPERY OF TWIN LIGHTS PUBLISHERS PROPERY OF TWIN LIGHTS PUBLISHERS Bourne Bridge BOURNE Along with her look-alike, the Sagamore Bridge over the Cape Cod Canal, the historic cantilever Bourne Bridge opened in 1935 connecting the Cape with the mainland. Each bridge has a ship clear- ance of 135 feet. 6 7 PROPERY OF TWIN LIGHTS PUBLISHERS PROPERY OF TWIN LIGHTS PUBLISHERS PROPERY OF TWIN LIGHTS PUBLISHERS PROPERY OF TWIN LIGHTS PUBLISHERS PROPERY OF TWIN LIGHTS PUBLISHERS PROPERY OF TWIN LIGHTS PUBLISHERS Cape Cod Canal (above) Sagamore Bridge (opposite, top) Railroad Bridge (opposite, bottom) BOURNE BOURNE BOURNE Part of the Intracoastal Waterway, the When it was built, the 616-foot horizon- The Railroad Bridge, supported by 271- approximately 17 mile-long man-made tal span of the Sagamore Bridge made foot high towers, is the second longest Cape Cod Canal connects Cape Cod it the longest list span in the world. It lift bridge in the U.S. Though there is Bay to Buzzards Bay. The widest sea brings as many as 200,000 vehicles no longer train service from the main- level canal in the world, it is spanned on a single summertime weekend over land, the Cape Cod Central Railroad by two highway bridges and a railroad Buzzard’s Bay from U.S. Route 6. still uses it for sightseeing and dinner bridge. excursions. 8 9 PROPERY OF TWIN LIGHTS PUBLISHERS PROPERY OF TWIN LIGHTS PUBLISHERS PROPERY OF TWIN LIGHTS PUBLISHERS PROPERY OF TWIN LIGHTS PUBLISHERS PROPERY OF TWIN LIGHTS PUBLISHERS PROPERY OF TWIN LIGHTS PUBLISHERS Jonathan Bourne Historical Center (top) Walking Tour (bottom) Recycled Windmill (opposite) BOURNE BOURNE BOURNE When it split from Sandwich in 1884, The Bourne Center is an ideal starting Joseph Jefferson, the Cape Cod actor Bourne became Cape Cod’s second point to tour some of the oldest historic who portrayed Rip Van Winkle, used this town. Many of its buildings and arti- sites on Cape Cod, including the Briggs- Dutch-style windmill as an art studio back facts date back to the 1600s. This McDermott House, a fine example of in the time of his good friend President library-turned museum was named for early 19th Century Greek Revival Grover Cleveland, who had a summer one of the founding fathers, whaling architecture with period furnishings. home here. Relocated to the Aptucxet ship owner, Jonathan Bourne. Museum complex, it’s now a gift shop. 10 PROPERY OF TWIN LIGHTS PUBLISHERS PROPERY OF TWIN LIGHTS PUBLISHERS PROPERY OF TWIN LIGHTS PUBLISHERS PROPERY OF TWIN LIGHTS PUBLISHERS PROPERY OF TWIN LIGHTS PUBLISHERS PROPERY OF TWIN LIGHTS PUBLISHERS Trading with Wampum Aptucxet Museum BOURNE BOURNE The original Aptucxet Trading Post was The museum collection includes arrow- built in 1627 by the Plymouth Colony. heads, wampum, and other period arti- Its excavated foundation may be the ear- facts. Most mysterious is the Bournedale liest remains of a Pilgrim building. The Stone. Some say it is a rune stone dating Pilgrims used wampum, the currency back to the Viking era. The museum made from local quahog shells, to trade offers history tours and classes in basket with the Indians. making and wampum bead making. 12 13 PROPERY OF TWIN LIGHTS PUBLISHERS PROPERY OF TWIN LIGHTS PUBLISHERS PROPERY OF TWIN LIGHTS PUBLISHERS PROPERY OF TWIN LIGHTS PUBLISHERS PROPERY OF TWIN LIGHTS PUBLISHERS PROPERY OF TWIN LIGHTS PUBLISHERS Glass Art Green Briar Nature Center (top and bottom) SANDWICH SANDWICH Mason jars catch the light at the Green Beloved Cape Cod storybook author Briar Nature Center.