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Faust 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa and a Little Rustic

Faust 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa and a Little Rustic

BUYING GUIDE DECEMBER 2012 A bunch of Furmint , with some botrytis-affected (aszú) berries, in Tokaj, .

40 2 CENTRAL AND 47 EASTERN EUROPE 62 OREGON 16 65 SPIRITS 25 66 BEER 33 FOR ADDITIONAL RATINGS AND REVIEWS, VISIT 40 BUYINGGUIDE.WINEMAG.COM

© HERBERT LEHMANN © HERBERT 40 URUGUAY

WineMag.com | 1 CENTRAL AND EASTERN EUROPE OFF THE BEATEN OLD-WORLD PATH

hen categorizing the world of into Old World and New acterized by extended macerations, resulting in gorgeously textured, gold- World, there’s often little mention of the of Central and hued wines that bristle with tannins. WEastern Europe. But these regions of the Old World have no- Hungary is best known in the American market for Tokaji’s sublime des- tably rich histories, and amidst centuries of war and shifting political sert wines, but the region is increasingly gaining a reputation for crafting boundaries, some have continued to make wine for more than 8,000 years. quality dry white wines made from traditional Tokaji grapes as well as in- , Macedonia and have some of the longest wine-making ternational varieties. histories in the world. , particularly the Primorska region, which lies adjacent to Ita- This month, we review over 60 wines from our Other Europe category, ly’s Friuli, boasts an array of powerful, full-bodied whites, and some stun- a category that includes wines from , , Georgia, Romania, ning red wines as well. , Slovenia and . While limited availability allows us to review only a small portion of the The widespread availability of these wines in the is quite wines from these fascinating regions, we relish the opportunity to get to recent. But for American consumers, wines from these regions represent know them and to share them with you. an opportunity to delve into the epic history of and to discov- Also in this Buying Guide, we review the latest crop of sparkling wines er unique grape varieties and regional winemaking styles, often at incred- from France and Italy, as well as new releases of table wines from and ible values. Portugal. From the New World, check out reviews of wines from Chile and Georgia boasts not only the oldest record of winemaking, but helped to Brazil, plus hundreds more reviews of wines from California and ­Oregon. establish “orange wines,” an ancient style of white-wine making that’s char- Cheers! —Anna Lee C. Iijima

BULGARIA Targovishte 2011 Premium Quality Dry chocolate-kissed finish. Blue Danube Wine Co. Best 83 (Black Sea Coastal). Buy. —A.I. Domaine Boyar 2009 Reserve Caber- Grassy with green leaf and fresh-cut herb notes, this abv: 12.5% Price: $13 87 net Sauvignon (Thracian Valley). Pristine dry, easy-drinking wine boasts lively lime-juice acidity flavors of cassis and black cherry give an elegant flo- and pleasant apple flavor. Slightly dusty notes of dried Frano Milos 2008 Plavac (Pelješac). Aera- ral quality to this dry, full-bodied Cabernet. Crisp with herb and reed distract on the finish. Bulgarian Master 88 tion is key to deciphering the layers of barnyard, acidity, it’s balanced and impeccably crafted. It finish- Vintners. —A.I. leather, earth and tannin that dominate the attack of this es long on a delicious coffee-inflected note. Bulgarian abv: 12% Price: $9 brawny, bold wine. With time, a multitude of delicate Master Vintners. Best Buy. —A.I. red-fruit, flower and hay notes unfold, contributing a abv: 13% Price: $9 feminine flair that’s elegantly appealing. Blue Danube CROATIA Wine Co. —A.I. abv: 13.6% Price: $25 Targovishte 2011 Premium Quality Dry Korta Katarina 2007 Plavac Mali 86 Muskat Ottonel (Black Sea Coastal). (Pelješac). Like Korta Katarina’s Reuben’s 90 Bastianich 2010 Adriatico Malvasia Is- Fresh and floral, this is abundantly fragrant with notes Reserve, there’s an elegant floral quality that unites rus- triana (Istria). Though aromatically subdued, of sweet cherry blossom and freshly cut herb. The pal- tic red fruit, earth and animal characteristics. Intense- 87 there’s an intensity of tangerine and lime zest flavor in ate is crisp and dry, with zesty hints of underripe stone ly concentrated with crisp sour-plum acidity, it finishes this dry, invigorating Malvasia. The midpalate is marked fruit and lemon. Brisk and clean on the finish. Bulgarian long, with a bristle of bold-yet-velvety tannins. Katha- by elegant white-flower notes that linger on the slightly Master Vintners. Best Buy. —A.I. rine’s Garden LLC. —A.I. astringent lime-pith finish. Dark Star Imports. —A.I. abv: 12% Price: $10 abv: 15.5% Price: $38 abv: 12.5% Price: $16 Domaine Boyar 2007 Royal Reserve Ma- Korta Katarina 2007 Reuben’s Private Korta Katarina 2009 Pošip (Kor ula). 84 vrud (Thracian Valley). Earthy on the nose Reserve Plavac Mali (Pelješac). Coarse 90 Waxy notes of white flower and orange peel and palate, with prominent mushroom and smoke tannins and tones of smoke, sun-dried hay and cocoa 87 persist on the nose and palate of this bold, invigorating notes, this is a massively tannic wine, with a hefty serv- powder add a bold, brawny dimension to the fleshy, ripe wine. Dry and full bodied, it’s structured and concen- ing of pulpy black-fruit flavor. It is full-bodied, with a bit plum and cherry flavors on this wine. A pretty note of trated, but it finishes crisply with hints of tart tangerine of heat on the finish. Bulgarian Master Vintners. —A.I. violet perfume and bright acidity persist from start to and hazelnut skin. Katharine’s Garden LLC. —A.I. abv: 13.5% Price: $16 finish, adding shades of elegance. Katharine’s Garden abv: 13.7% Price: $24 LLC. —A.I. Targovishte 2011 Premium Quality Dry abv: 15.4% Price: $57 84 (Black Sea Coastal). Aromas of Korta Katarina 2010 Rosé Plavac Mali and (Pelješac). The lavors of can- sweet honey and caramelized sugar on this Bulgarian Dinga 2010 Plavac Mali 83 died red cherry and flower are pleasant, but dusty herb Riesling belie a palate that’s crisp, dry and bristling with (Pelješac). Unusually balanced, this delicate 89 notes distract on the nose and palate. It’s a big wine at acidity. Fresh lemon and apple flavors lack concentra- Plavac Mali is a great introduction to a fascinating Croa- 13.9% abv, but zesty acidity keeps it relatively balanced. tion but finish briskly with a hint of dusty minerality. tian grape variety. The palate is soft and fleshy, with ripe Katharine’s Garden LLC. —A.I. Bulgarian Master Vintners. —A.I. red-cherry and plum flavors, but flecked with hints of abv: 13.9% Price: $21 abv: 12% Price: $9 hay, dried flower and herb. Delicate tannins frame the

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2 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | DECEMBER 2012 The Wine Enthusiast Buying Guide The Buying Guide includes ratings and reviews of new- release and selected older beverage products evaluated by Wine Enthusiast Magazine’s editors and other qualified tasters. Regular contributors to our Buying Guide include Tasting Director Lauren Buzzeo, Assistant Tasting Director Anna Lee C. Iijima, Executive Editor Susan Kostrzewa, Managing Editor Joe Czerwinski, Associate Editor Andrew Hoover, Contributing Editor Michael Flowers 2010 Sea View Ridge Estate Schachner and Spirits Editor Kara Newman in New York, 98 (Sonoma Coast). European Editor Roger Voss in Bordeaux, Italian Editor A cool climate has given this wine bracing acidity and Jarvis 2010 Finch Hollow Estate Grown Monica Larner in Rome, California Editor Steve Heimoff in Oakland, Contributing Editor Paul Gregutt in Seattle and gentle-yet-persistent tannins. Its flavors of wild raspber- 96 Fermented Unfiltered Contributing Editor Virginie Boone in Santa Rosa. ries and cherries, with spice and mineral overtones, are (Napa Valley). Astonishingly rich, this is everything If a wine was evaluated by a single reviewer, that taster’s delicious. There’s a feral quality that expresses umami you want a Chardonnay to be. It’s fantastically concen- initials appear following the note. When no initials appear perfectly, suggesting -sautéed, tamari-splashed trated in , guava, green apple, pear and lime following a wine review, the wine was evaluated by two or more reviewers and the score and tasting note reflect mushrooms and crisped prosciutto. The is powerful fruits; it’s creamy and suave in lees influence; and it’s the input of all tasters. Unless otherwise stated, all Spirits and present in the form of toast and sweet vanilla, but brisk in acidity, despite undergoing malolactic fermen- Reviews are by Kara Newman and all beer reviews are by perfectly balanced with the wine’s volume. For all its tation. The texture is honeyed, with a perfect touch of Lauren Buzzeo. richness, the wine finishes bone dry. this impec- smoky, new French oak. The estate grapes come from Each review contains a score, the full name of the product, its suggested national retail price, its abv as reported to us by cable Pinot Noir now through 2020. —S.H. the winery’s vineyard high up in the Vaca Mountains, the submitter and a tasting note. If price or alcohol content abv: 14% Price: $70 east of the Silverado Trail. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. cannot be confirmed, NA (not available) will be printed. abv: 14.7% Price: $115 Prices are for 750-ml bottles unless otherwise indicated. TASTING METHODOLOGY AND GOALS All tastings reported in the Buying Guide are performed blind unless otherwise noted. Typically, products are tasted in peer-group flights of from 5–8 samples. Price is not a factor in assigning scores. When possible, products considered flawed or uncustomary are retasted. ABOUT THE SCORES Ratings reflect what our editors felt about a particular product. Beyond the rating, we encourage you to read the accompanying tasting note to learn about a product’s special characteristics. Classic 98–100: The pinnacle of quality. Superb 94–97: A great achievement. Iron Horse NV Joy! (Green Valley). This Knights Bridge 2009 Beckstoffer To Excellent 90–93: Highly recommended. Very Good 87–89: Often good value; well recommended. 97 multivintage bottling is extraordinarily rich in 96 Kalon Vineyard Good 83–86: Suitable for everyday consumption; orange fruit. You’ll find complex layers of smoky but- (Napa Valley). Beckstoffer To Kalon Cabs aren’t al- often good value. ter, yeasty brioche, vanilla and toasted oak. What’s so ways fabulous, because so many source its Acceptable 80–82: Can be employed in casual, less- critical circumstances. remarkable, though, is the mouthfeel: While it’s brisk in fruit, but Knights Bridge has a great track record. This Products deemed Unacceptable (receiving a rating below 80 acidity, it feels as soft and gentle as satin. It’s so beautiful release is their best ever. Dry and soft in the mouth, it’s points) are not reviewed. now that you’ll find it difficult to keep from drinking the drinkable now, yet so firm are the tannins that it will eas- SPECIAL DESIGNATIONS entire magnum immediately. —S.H. ily age. As for the flavors, they’re incredibly complex in Editors’ Choice products are those that offer excellent abv: 13% Price: $189/1.5 L blackberries, black currant and licorice. Best now and quality at a price above our Best Buy range, or a product at any through the next 10 years. —S.H. price with unique qualities that merit special attention. Cellar Selections are products deemed highly collectible abv: 15.5% Price: $135 and/or requiring time in a temperature-controlled to reach their maximum potential. A Cellar Selection designation does not mean that a product must be stored to be enjoyed, but that cellaring will probably result in a more enjoyable bottle. In general, an optimum time for cellaring will be indicated. Best Buys are products that offer a high level of quality in relation to price. There are no specific guidelines or formulae for determining Best Buys, but wines meriting this award are generally priced at $15 or less. SUBMITTING PRODUCTS FOR REVIEW Products should be submitted to the appropriate reviewing location as detailed in our FAQ, available online via winemag. com/contactus. Inquiries should be addressed to the Tasting Iron Horse 2004 Chinese Cuvée (Green & Review Department at 914.345.9463 or email tastings@ Valley). Marked by its soft, mousse-like refine- Pol Roger 2002 Extra Cuvée de Réserve wineenthusiast.net. There is no charge for submitting 96 products. We make every effort to taste all products submitted ment, this is sheer silk and satin in the 96 Brut (). The most re- for review, but there is no guarantee that all products submitted mouth. On the palate, the raspberry, lime and vanilla cent vintage release from Pol Roger is this superb 2002. will be tasted, or that reviews will appear in the magazine. All samples must be accompanied by the appropriate submission flavors are subtle, while leesy doughiness and oakiness Notes of apple, almond, citrus and a hint of toast min- forms, which may be downloaded from our Web site. bring a touch of smoke. This is a beautiful wine for a cel- gle together effortlessly. It can be consumed now, espe- LABELS ebratory toast, or to enjoy with lobster, crab or scallops. cially with food, but its mixture of maturity and fresh- Labels are paid promotions. Producers and importers are given It would also perfect a weekend brunch alongside plain ness promise to age beautifully for many years to come. the opportunity to submit labels, which are reproduced and old scrambled eggs and buttered toast. —S.H. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. Cellar Selection. printed along with tasting notes and scores. For information on label ­purchases, contact Denise Valenza at 813.571.1122; fax abv: 13.5% Price: $98 —R.V. 866.896.8786; or email [email protected]. abv: 12.5% Price: $110 Find all reviews on our fully searchable database at buyingguide.winemag.com

WineMag.com | 3 Knights Bridge 2009 Beckstoffer Dr. 95 Crane Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon Evening Land 2010 Seven Springs Vine- (Napa Valley). Dusty tannins and notes of dried herbs 95 yard La Source Pinot Noir (Eola-Amity give this vigorous young Cabernet a mark of immaturity Hills). In a stellar lineup of 2010 Evening Land Pinots, that strongly suggests time in the cellar, despite flashy Sequoia Grove 2008 Cambium (Napa this is the best. It displays eye-popping character and blackberry and black currant flavors. The winery has 95 Valley). An extraordinary wine, this is one of depth, a ripe powerhouse at just 13.1% alcohol. Black done a great job with fruit from the Dr. Crane Vineyard the best offerings from Sequoia Grove. Everything is cherry fruit comes laced with and baking for several years, and this majestic wine is right up there pitch-perfect: Its fine, ripe fruit flavors of blackberry, spice notes. It’s a full, round, rich, and fruity wine that with the great ’07 vintage. Best after 2018. Cellar Se- blueberry and black currant are balanced with earthy, just never quits. Cellar Selection. —P.G. lection. —S.H. herbal tones; its tannins are soft and rich, with a sharp abv: 13.1% Price: $60 abv: 15.5% Price: $135 acidity and a tasteful overlay of oak. Delicious as it is now, you’ll want to cellar this wine for at least six years. Cellar Selection. —S.H. abv: 14.4% Price: $125

Pol Roger 2002 Extra Cuvée de Réserve Hidden Ridge 2007 55% Slope Impass- 95 Blanc de Blancs Brut (Champagne). This 95 able Mountain Reserve Cabernet Sau- is a thouroughbred, elegant sparkler. With its delicate vignon (Sonoma County). This has intensely con- acidity, apple and grapefruit flavors, and tense, steely Viader 2009 Red (Napa Valley). Made from centrated flavors of black currant, blueberry preserves, texture, it is an extremely well-blanced wine. Although 95 70% Cabernet Sauvignon and 30% Cabernet violet, vanilla and buttered toast; it’s as delicious as any it is ready to drink now, it could certainly age in bottle Franc, it has every hallmark of a young Napa Valley Bor- Cabernet out there. The structure shows firm tannins for many years. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. Cel- deaux blend. It’s dry, smooth and complex in tannins, and fine acidity, true to its mountainous origins. Keep lar Selection. —R.V. with balancing acidity and an incredible array of flavors, this in your cellar for at least six years, and as many as abv: 12.5% Price: $135 including blackberry, black currant, cherry, chocolate, 20. Cellar Selection. —S.H. dried herb, smoky oak and spice. It has that important abv: 14.9% Price: $75 but hard-to-define quality of sophistication. It’s deli- cious now, and it should develop in the bottle for at least 10 years. —S.H. abv: 14.3% Price: $115

Schramsberg 2005 J. Schram (Napa- 95 Mendocino-Sonoma-Marin). This four- county blend is a selection of what the winemakers Jarvis 2010 Finch Hollow Estate Grown consider their best lots of the vintage. Made from 86% 95 Cave Fermented Chardonnay (Napa Val- Chardonnay and 14% Pinot Noir, it most certainly ley). Unbelievably rich and decadent, this tastes of needs some time in the cellar, as it’s scoury right now. Bella 2009 Barrel 32 Zinfandel (Sonoma honey drizzled over crushed ripe , guavas But its richness is already apparent: it shows complex 94 County). Bella’s quartet of new 2009 Zinfan- and pears. Added hints of buttered toast, vanilla bean, toast, leesy yeast, crème brûlée, lemondrop sour candy dels is their best ever. This small-production wine, a caramel and sweet cream come with scads of savory pie and ripe pear flavors. A gorgeous sparkling wine that best-of-barrels selection from their various , is spices. —S.H. will benefit from at least 12 years of aging. Cellar Se- softly tannic and silky, and its flavors of wild berry, cur- abv: 14.7% Price: $95 lection. —S.H. rant, cola, spice and sandalwood should be enjoyed now. abv: 12.5% Price: $115 The mouthfeel is utterly luxurious, offering the best ele- ments of a Napa Valley cult Cabernet, with the briary, rustically chic qualities of Zinfandel. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $48

4 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | DECEMBER 2012 Le Cadeau 2010 Diversité Pinot Noir (Wil- Chamisal Vineyards 2010 Califa Selec- 94 lamette Valley). Among an outstanding lineup Trisaetum 2011 Ribbon Ridge Estate 94 tion Chardonnay (Edna Valley). This is the of well-defined, beautifully refined Pinots from Le Ca- 94 Riesling (Ribbon Ridge). Perhaps the best winery’s small-production, high-end Chardonnay, which deau, the Diversité takes top honors. Sourced from the of a stellar lineup from Trisaetum, this off-dry estate shows the brilliant essence of Edna Valley. Few Char- winery’s vineyard in the Chehalem Mountains, it shows bottling is packed with grapefruit and pineapple flavors. donnays in the state are this streamlined, low in alco- excellent varietal character, with exceptional depth and They run tart and deep into the palate, full and focused, hol, crisp and minerally. An accomplishment in this day detail. It beautifully melds the notes of mixed red fruit, with the vineyard’s signature minerality. Cellar Selec- and age of fat, oaky bottlings, this has a steely taste that light earth, and sensitively-applied barrel. Editors’ tion. —P.G. is relieved by subtle hints of lime, vanilla and buttered Choice. —P.G. abv: 10.5% Price: $24 toast. Only 600 cases were produced. Editors’ Choice. abv: 13.1% Price: $48 —S.H. abv: 13.4% Price: $40

Prats & Symington LDA 2009 Chryseia Alexander Valley Vineyards 2008 Cyrus 94 (Douro). Still an icon of Douro reds, this is 93 (Alexander Valley). This Bordeaux-style Evening Land 2010 Seven Springs Vine- marked by elegance. The fruit blends effortlessly with blend, based on Cabernet Sauvignon and , is 94 yard Pinot Noir (Eola-Amity Hills). A richly the acid-laced, firm tannins. It has fine potential for ag- the winery’s best in years. It shows the soft tannins detailed riot of flavors, this outstanding Pinot Noir of- ing over at least five years. Premium Port Wines, Inc. and herbal quality of Alexander Valley Cabs, yet is rich fers notes of lavender and rosemary on the nose and Cellar Selection. —R.V. enough in blackberry, currant and oak to satisfy. Its tan- flavors of strawberry and raspberry on the palate, with abv: 14.5% Price: $55 nin structure feels elegant, with layers of complexity to hints of beetroot, clean earth and . The finish adds accompany fine cuisine. Drink now–2015 for its fresh- a lingering, resonant flavor of pastis.Editors’ Choice. ness. —S.H. —P.G. abv: 14.4% Price: $60 abv: 13.3% Price: $45

Sequoia Grove 2008 Stagecoach Vine- 94 yard Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). A very fine Cabernet, rich, ripe and complex, from a very expensive neighborhood. The wine shows its pedi- Jarvis 2009 Will Jarvis’ Science Project gree in the refined, silky and satiny texture. Its flavors Bella 2009 Maple Vineyards Zinfandel 94 (Napa Valley). Although this wine’s price has are simply gorgeous, with mineral-infused black currant 93 (Dry Creek Valley). This is rich and ripe in increased over the years, its quality has remained con- notes. But the wine is still young and tannic. Give this blackberry, currant, mocha, tobacco, cola and spice. It stant. It’s an unusual blend of 95% and cellar candidate 6–8 years, and it could go well beyond has a beautiful texture, feeling softly tannic and velvety, 5% Merlot, with firm tannins and a cut of fresh acidity, that. Cellar Selection. —S.H. seemingly frictionless on the palate yet with fine grip. giving it a rich cherry intensity. The sheer luxury of the abv: 14.4% Price: $90 The head-trained vines are at least 50 years old. Edi- mouthfeel alone merits this wine’s high score. —S.H. tors’ Choice. —S.H. abv: 13.7% Price: $125 abv: 14.4% Price: $38

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Knights Bridge 2010 West Block Char- Charles Heidsieck NV Brut Réserve donnay (Knights Valley). This wine has var- (Champagne). It’s rare to find a nonvintage 93 93 ied over the years, but with the cool 2010 vintage, it blend with such attractive bottle age; in most the fruiti- Le Cadeau 2010 Équinoxe Pinot Noir really shows how fine its can shine. A full de- ness dominates. This has a toasty character, with an al- 93 (Willamette Valley). With its tangy cherry- gree of alcohol lower than the 2009, it’s bone dry, brisk mond note and a ripe mouthfeel that balances its warm pie and plum flavors, its excellent concentration and its in acidity, and stimulating in its minerally taste and tex- pear and yellow-fruit flavors. This demonstrates a full, accents of red licorice and loam, this is a flavorful and ture—like a lick of cold steel. There is a fortunate streak rich style. Remy Cointreau USA. Editors’ Choice. complex wine that’s set in an elegant frame of acid and of Meyer lemon candy that lends enough richness to —R.V. tannin. It takes full advantage of the refined style that satisfy. Reminiscent of a fine Chablis, it’s drinking well abv: 12% Price: $60 the 2010 vintage has made possible. Editors’ Choice. now. —S.H. —P.G. abv: 14.5% Price: $65 abv: 13.1% Price: $48

Gallo Signature Series 2010 Pinot Noir Knights Bridge 2009 Cabernet Sauvi- 93 (Santa Lucia Highlands). Richness and deli- 93 gnon (Knights Valley). An extraordinarily cacy commend this Pinot. Part of a new line from the ripe, graceful Cabernet, rich and forward in blackber- Le Cadeau 2009 Côte Est Reserve Pinot venerable E.&J. Gallo, this wine is quite successful, es- ry, cassis and dark chocolate flavors. It feels velvety and Noir (Oregon). Tasted alongside the winery’s pecially at this price. It’s rich and fruity, with impressive 93 refined, with that hard-to-define quality of importance light and elegant 2010 Pinots, this 2009 Reserve bold- depth and length, and its finish is long, spicy and oaky. that characterizes the best wines. It should develop bot- ly stands out. The fleshy, black fruit flavors are bigger Editors’ Choice. —S.H. tle complexity over the years, but it’s so fresh and deli- and fuller across the palate than those from the later abv: 14.8% Price: $35 cious that it’s fine to drink now too. —S.H. vintage. The finish is streaked with a cola note and will abv: 15.5% Price: $115 leave you reaching for the bottle as soon as your glass is empty. —P.G. abv: 13.8% Price: $75

Jarvis 2010 Estate Grown Cave Ferment- Lagar de Bezana 2008 Single Vineyard ed Chardonnay (Napa Valley). The grapes 93 Limited Edition (Alto Cachapoal). for this estate Chardonnay are sourced from the winery’s 93 Superpretty aromas of earth, balsam wood, coconut, vineyards way up in the Vaca Mountains. This is a flashy Liparita 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon graphite and blackberry comprise the excellent bou- wine, showing the ripe tropical fruit, cream, smoke, 93 (Oakville). A beautiful Cabernet, showing quet. It feels full and shows great definition, with smoky honey and buttery qualities of a fine Chardonnay. classic Oakville ripeness in its flavors of black and red dark-berry flavors and notes of licorice and pepper. —S.H. berry, currant and spice. There’s also a fine, tangy note abv: 14.3% Price: $58 It’s elegant on the finish for such a muscular, modern of green olive that brings an earthiness to the fruit. The Syrah. Drink now–2016. One of Chile’s best . structure is seamless, the tannins smooth and flashy. Vino Del Sol. Editors’ Choice. —M.S. Drinkable now, and should develop for at least 10 years. abv: 14.5% Price: $40 —S.H. abv: 14.8% Price: $60

6 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | DECEMBER 2012

H. Blin 2002 Blin’s Édition Limitée Mil- 92 lésime Extra Brut (Champagne). Tight acidity dominates this top cuvée from Blin, and between that and its strong citrus character, it needs time to breathe before drinking. Then it fills out with delicious, refreshing acidity, followed by a crisp finish. Robert Macauley 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon Houde Wines. —R.V. 93 (Napa Valley). The question with this dra- Bella 2009 Big River Ranch Zinfandel (Al- abv: 12.5% Price: $70 matic Cabernet is: How will it age? It’s a big wine, dry 92 exander Valley). This is dry, rich, heady, spicy and impressively rich in blackberry, black currant, dark and utterly delicious. As usual, it contains a splash of chocolate and crème de cassis. It’s also tannic, and the Petite Sirah. Already throwing some sediment, it’s pret- considerable new oak hasn’t fully integrated yet. If you ty tannic, with complex flavors of wild blackberry and have a good cellar, stash it away until 2015. Cellar Se- blueberry, black currant, licorice, cola, bacon and plum lection. —S.H. sauce, with a hint of exotic pepper and spice. This great abv: 14.8% Price: $72 Zinfandel is a joy to drink. —S.H. abv: 14.7% Price: $38

Hoopes 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon 92 (Oakville). The tannins are tough as nails on this 100% Cabernet, so even though it has a beautiful core of blackberries and cassis, it isn’t drinkable now. Miguel Torres 2008 Manso de Velasco Feudi di San Gregorio 2010 Privilegio (Ir- Such is the purity of the structure that the wine should 93 Viñas Viejas Cabernet Sauvignon (Cu- 92 pinia). A precious passito wine made easily hold its own for 10–12 years, throwing sediment ricó Valley). This is as stout as they come, with excel- partly from Fiano, this is redolent of honey, candied and gathering mellow sweetness. Cellar Selection. lent depth, structure and pulse, all of which make it a fruit and sweet almond. The palate is creamy and soft, —S.H. prime cellar candidate. It shows balsamic aromas of ce- with a sweet apricot overtone and a touch of fresh acid- abv: 14.9% Price: $65 dar, spiced berry and earth. The mouthfeel is ripe and ity. Palm Bay International. —M.L. abv: 12% Price: $60/500 ml smooth, with grip and power held in reserve. It tastes of chocolaty berry fruit and savory herb, and it’s warm and roasted on the finish. Drink from 2013–2018. Dreyfus, Ashby & Co. Cellar Selection. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $65

Feudo Arancio Stemmari 2009 Hekate 92 Passito (Sicilia). The folks at Feudo Arancio Stemmari have been playing around with this ’s blend for a number of years. They have achieved Hypothesis 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon impressive results with this vintage, which boasts a dark 92 (Napa Valley). Ripe, smooth and flashy, this golden color and intense aromas of honey, candied fruit Cab easily stands beside more expensive bottlings. It and peach. Prestige Wine Imports Corp. —M.L. has that Napa Valley quality of elegant complexity and abv: 12% Price: $31/500 ml dryness. The cool vintage has resulted in intense black- Trisaetum 2010 Ribbon Ridge Estate Pi- berry and currant flavors, while preserving vital acidity 93 not Noir (Ribbon Ridge). This is a firm wine, and brisk tannins. Oak adds the perfect touch of smoky- tightly-wound, with whiffs of mineral and cement. Plum wood sweetness. Drink this fancy Cabernet over the and cherry flavors mingle with notes of dried herb, earth next 4–5 years. —S.H. and brown spice. The wine rolls along into a lengthy fin- abv: 15% Price: $40 ish, with excellent body and balance. Cellar Selection. —P.G. abv: 13.6% Price: $55

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Rodney Strong 2009 Alexander’s Crown Le Cadeau 2010 Côte Est Pinot Noir (Or- 92 Cabernet Sauvignon (Alexander Valley). egon). An elegant version of the Côte Est, this Iron Horse 2007 Ocean Reserve (Green 92 This is the winery’s top Cabernet. The ’09 is very ripe, is an Oregon Pinot sourced from the winery’s vineyard Valley). A beautiful sparkling wine that shows rich and forward, offering powerful blackberry, cherry 92 in the Chehalem Mountains that’s bursting with juicy the Iron Horse signature of balanced elegance. The and currant flavors that are wrapped into soft, gentle goodness. It’s a wine with finesse, full of tart fruit flavors lime, raspberry, vanilla and brioche flavors are rich and tannins. It’s quite good, but it needs a couple of years in like cranberry and cherry, tight and well-suited for 10 intricate, but particularly lovely is the texture, which is the bottle. Best around 2015. Cellar Selection. —S.H. or more years in the cellar. Cellar Selection. —P.G. soft and silky. —S.H. abv: 15.5% Price: $75 abv: 13.1% Price: $48 abv: 13.5% Price: $40

Summers 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon 92 (Calistoga). This is a rich, well-structured Iron Horse 2007 Russian Cuvée (Green Liparita 2009 V Block Cabernet Sauvi- Cabernet, but such are the tannins that it needs time 92 Valley). One of the winery’s sweeter sparkling 92 gnon (Yountville). Hard tannins and a brood- in the cellar. The cool vintage was kind to the Calistoga wines, this one’s mostly Pinot Noir, which accounts ing toughness mask the fruit on this wine, hiding the fruit, keeping the alcohol modest and the tannins hefty, for the full-bodied flavors of raspberries. One-quarter black cherry and currant under a cloak of dry astringen- while allowing the grapes to develop intense flavors of Chardonnay brings refreshing lime acidity. Beautiful cy. However, it seems to have all the pieces in place to blackberry and black currant. Give it 6–8 years in a for drinking now with sweetly buttered shellfish dishes age gracefully. Should be fine by 2018–2020.Cellar Se- good cellar. Cellar Selection. —S.H. or, if you’re in a splurgy mood, toast points with caviar. lection. —S.H. abv: 14.1% Price: $32 —S.H. abv: 14.7% Price: $60 abv: 13.5% Price: $38

MacRostie 2009 Pinot Noir (Sonoma

92 Coast). Give this wine some time in the de- Viu Manent 2009 Viu 1 (Colchagua Val- ley). As always, this is among the best Jarvis 2008 Lake William Estate Grown canter to let it aerate. After an hour or two, a smooth, 92 silky Pinot Noir will emerge, ripe in flavors of cherry- Chile has to offer. The nose is concentrated and packed Cave Fermented (Napa Valley). Directly 92 pie filling and spice, with fine acidity and gentle tannins. with huge aromas of black fruit, vanilla and earthy to- from the bottle, this Cabernet Sauvignon-based blend With grapes from four vineyards, it shows a mastery of bacco. It feels pure and incredibly deep, with beefy ber- is tight and closed. The tannins and acids dominate, de- the art of blending. —S.H. ry and toasted plum flavors. The chewy, easy-to-like fin- spite a wealth of sweet fruit flavors like blackberry, cher- abv: 14.2% Price: $34 ish is mellow. Drink now–2017. Baystate Wine & Spir- ry and cassis. In all respects, especially structurally, it’s a its. —M.S. pedigreed wine. Have faith in its future, and cellar it for abv: 14.5% Price: $75 eight years. Cellar Selection. —S.H. abv: 14.7% Price: $155

8 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | DECEMBER 2012

Rodney Strong 2009 Symmetry Meritage Altemasi 2004 Graal Riserva Brut (Tren- (Alexander Valley). This is a luxu- to). Made by the folks at the important wine co- 91 91 riously fruity wine to drink now with fancy beef dishes. operative Cavit, this elegant metodo classico sparkling Mainly Cabernet Sauvignon, it shows a juicy softness wine offers a pretty bouquet of toasted bread, apricot, I Sodi 2005 Riserva (Vin Santo del Chianti framing blackberry, cherry and oak flavors. Give it an honey, dried herb and citrus. It shows a smooth, fine 91 Classico). This expression of Vin Santo—the hour in the to aerate and develop. —S.H. quality with refreshing acidity on the close. Palm Bay only way to complete a long dinner in Tuscany—shows abv: 15% Price: $55 International. —M.L. lovely aromas of sweet apricot, pressed flower, pine nut abv: 12% Price: $45 and candied fruit. Due Fratelli Imports. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $50/500 ml

Symington Family Estates 2009 Vale do 91 Bomfim Reserva (Douro).Sourced from Krutz 2011 Ceja Vineyard Magnolia Se- old vines, this elegant offering shows delicious fruit and 91 ries Chardonnay (Sonoma Valley). Napa great depth of flavor. The tannins slide easily into the Feudi di San Gregorio 2009 DUBL Brut Cabernet specialist Krutz has been assembling a good red berry note and layered acidity. It shows the struc- 91 Greco (Campania). The impressive natu- record for Chardonnay in recent years, and with this ture of the Douro while maintaing an accessible style. ral structure and staying power of Greco make this a release, Krutz reaches into Sonoma Valley, with excel- Premium Port Wines, Inc. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. creamy and sophisticated metodo classico sparkling lent results. Dry, crisp and creamy, this has vanilla and abv: 13.5% Price: $25 wine, with aromas of honey, pear and Golden Delicious yeast-accented citrus and peach flavors. It’s a Cham- apple. Palm Bay International. —M.L. pagne-like Chardonnay, defined by elegance. Editors’ abv: 12.5% Price: $43 Choice. —S.H. abv: 13% Price: $22

Martin Ray 2011 Reserve Chardonnay Viña Requingua 2009 Potro de Piedra Herdade do Esporão 2009 Esporão 91 (Los Carneros). Martin Ray’s Reserve Carne- 91 Family Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon- 91 Reserva (Alentejo). This is Esporão’s flag- ros Chardonnay is turning out to be a consistently great Cabernet Franc (Curicó Valley). Year in and year ship estate wine blend, a rich summation of the warm, wine for its price. This is dry, crisp in acidity and com- out, this ranks as a fine blend of 85% Cabernet Sauvi- ripe fruit that’s produced on this Alentejo estate. With plex, showing classic, oak-tinged flavors that veer to- gnon and 15% Cabernet Franc. Look for a comported big, powerful black fruit and a dense texture, this has ward tropical fruits, pears and green apples. —S.H. nose with blackberry, cassis and earth tones. The palate a rounded, solid and chunky feel, and the tannins are abv: 13.5% Price: $25 is layered and chewy, with deep, dense flavors of black- cushioned by the ripeness. Age this for at least four berry, licorice, spice and herb. Toasty and long on the years. Esporão Wines & Olive Oils. —R.V. finish; drink now–2016. Puerto Viejo Wines. Editors’ abv: 14.5% Price: $25 Choice. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $25

WineMag.com | 9 Gloria Ferrer 2007 Blanc de Blancs 90 (Carneros). The vintage was a very good one for Gloria Ferrer and especially for their Chardonnay, which forms the basis of this bottling. It’s a rich sparkler, Viu Manent 2009 San Carlos Single Vine- Kelleher 2011 Block 21 Sauvignon Blanc dryish and elegant, with flavors of lime, pear, dough, yard (Colchagua Valley). The bou- 90 (Napa Valley). Showing how fine Sauvignon 91 honey and vanilla. —S.H. quet shows pure, nicely extracted blackberry and leather Blanc can be in Napa Valley, this has citrus, melon and abv: 12.9% Price: $28 aromas. The palate is healthy and structured, with black- honey flavors. It’s dry, creamy and rich in vanilla flavor, berry, toast and mild herb flavors. It remains warm, with a bright edge of acidity. A touch of oak adds a note spicy and composed on the finish. Drink now–2016. of smoke. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. Baystate Wine & Spirits. Editors’ Choice. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $28 abv: 14.5% Price: $25

Grgich Hills 2009 Estate Grown Caber- 90 net Sauvignon (Napa Valley). There’s lots of richness to this Cabernet, a testimony to the sunny MacRostie 2009 Wildcat Mountain Vine- Berlucchi NV Cuvée ’61 Brut (Franciacor- ripeness of the vintage. It bursts with flavors of cassis 90 yard Chardonnay (Sonoma Coast). Al- 90 ta). This fresh, creamy Chardonnay-based spar- and blackberry and blueberry jam, complemented by though new oak accounted for only 25% of the barrels kler is making waves thanks to its crisp acidity and full- the toasty, smoky butteriness of oak barrels. It’s a lovely used, the oakiness stands out in the form of buttered bodied mouthfeel. The balance is spot-on, with delicate wine to drink now with upscale fare. —S.H. toast and popcorn. But these interventions work well aromas of apricot, baked bread and sweet citrus that are abv: 14.6% Price: $60 because the underlying Chardonnay itself is rich and backed by smooth and persistent perlage. Terlato Wines strong in tropical fruit flavors. —S.H. International. —M.L. abv: 14.1% Price: $35 abv: 12.5% Price: $30

Iron Horse 2007 Brut X (Green Valley). 90 This wine is a little scoury in the mouthfeel, with big bubbles that give it some roughness, but oth- erwise it is a fine brut. Among the driest of the winery’s Quevedo 2009 Cláudia’s Reserve (Dou- new releases, it shows citrus, tropical fruit and yeast fla- 90 ro). This manages to be rich, smooth, complex vors, with firm acid. —S.H. and full bodied without losing any of its fruitiness. The abv: 13.5% Price: $50 tannins are enveloped by its ripe, generous texture. Feudi di San Gregorio 2009 DUBL Brut Worth aging a year, but you can also drink it now. P.R. 90 Rosé (Campania). Native Aglianico grapes Grisley Company. —R.V. give this metodo classico sparkling wine its pretty pink abv: 13% Price: $22 color. Aromas recall wild berry, stone fruit and pink grapefruit. The quality of the perlage is steady, bright and tonic. Palm Bay International. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $43

10 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | DECEMBER 2012 Sequoia Grove 2010 Chardonnay (Carne- Miguel Torres 2011 Santa Digna Este- ros). Restrained, vibrant and dry, this shows Jarvis 2008 Estate Grown Cave Ferment- 90 lado Rosé (Central Valley). This might be herb-inflected tropical fruit and citrus flavors, with a 89 ed Petit Verdot (Napa Valley). The tough Chile’s best sparkling wine, made entirely from País, the 87 yeasty note of lees. Oak lurks subtlely and tastefully in and chewy tannins make this hard to appreciate now, so-called Mission grape. It’s well balanced, with straw- the background. Bone dry, this is more elegant than op- despite its strong core of black cherry jam. Upon de- berry, raspberry, nectarine and plum aromas. It feels ulent, making it food friendly. —S.H. canting, the structure softens slightly and more complex surprisingly elevated and classy, expressing a range of abv: 14.2% Price: $28 fruits, herbs and spices emerge. —S.H. fruits, including cherry, cantaloupe and plum. Dreyfus, abv: 13.8% Price: $80 Ashby & Co. Editors’ Choice. —M.S. abv: 12% Price: $20

Symington Family Estates 2009 Altano 90 Quinta do Ataíde Reserva (Douro). The Martin Ray 2011 Chardonnay (Russian Korbel 2010 Brut Made With Organical- flagship of the Altano range, this single-vineyard wine, 88 River Valley). Dry, creamy and crisp in acidity, 87 ly Grown Grapes (California). With a pale aged in new wood, has beautiful smooth tannins to ac- this has rich pineapple, lemon, lime and buttered toast straw color, this brut is properly dry and crisp, although company its ripe berry fruits. It’s open, rich and con- flavors. It’s easy to drink and enjoy. Editors’ Choice. it does have a honey-sweet richness. It shows citrus centrated, and it could well age for 3–4 years. Vineyard —S.H. and pear flavors, with the yeasty, doughy earthiness of Brands. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $20 a good sparkling wine. A little scoury and fairly priced, abv: 14% Price: $24 it’s a fine bubbly to drink now.Editors’ Choice. —S.H. abv: 12% Price: $13

Valter Sirk 2010 Rebula Ribolla Gialla (Goriška Brda). Hints of smoke and nut add a 90 Dalliance 2010 Red Wine (Lake County). savory tone to the concentrated fig, pear and tangerine- Korbel NV Brut (California). This nonvin- This hodgepodge of Zinfandel, Syrah, Tempra- skin flavors. Richly textured on the palate, with bold, 87 87 tage brut is almost always a successful bottling nillo, , Cabernet Sauvignon and , all brisk acidity, it finishes long with citrus oil and white for Korbel. This release will not disappoint: It’s a fine grown in Lake County, will please many palates. It’s a blossom notes. Vias Imports. —A.I. sparkling wine, dryish, crisp and rich in flavors of or- subtle and satisfying red marked by sweet tannins, a soft abv: 13% Price: $30 ange, lime, vanilla and yeast, with a hint of strawberry. mouthfeel and rounded notes of cherry, plum and va- —S.H. nilla. —V.B. abv: 12% Price: $13 abv: 14.5% Price: $20

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Korbel NV Chardonnay (California). This Shannon Ridge 2011 High Elevation Col- is Korbel’s Chardonnay-based sparkling wine, 87 87 lection Chardonnay (Lake County). Nu- Zinfandelic 2009 Old Vine Zinfandel and it showcases the house style of clean acidity, slight anced yet straightforward, this is deliciously simple in its (Amador County). This Zinfandel takes time sweetness and scouring bubbles. The Chardonnay approach. Notes of honey, vanilla and stone fruit shine 87 shines through in its typical notes of lime and kiwi fruit. to unlayer, but once it does, the combination of leather most brightly, and the finish teases with a tropical mist- and blackberry is tasty, and the finish is pleasantly spicy. —S.H. ing of coconut. —V.B. abv: 12.5% Price: $13 —V.B. abv: 13.9% Price: $23 abv: 14.5% Price: $19

SPIRITS

Arehucas Ron Miel Guanche 90 (Spain; Copa Spirits, Jack- sonville, FL). From Spain’s sunny Ca- nary Islands, this honey-sweetened 7-year-old rum has a lovely sweet-spice SIP 2011 Moscato (California). This is the scent akin to chai tea, a sweet vanilla- Orion Wine 2010 Rocca del Dragone 87 kind of wine that has made Moscato so popular. bean—almost dulce de leche—flavor and 87 Falanghina (Campania). This fragrant Fa- It’s sweet in flavors of white sugar, honey, tangerines, a honeyed finish that coats the tongue. langhina shows bright aromas of white flower, jasmine lemon pie and vanilla bean. Its crisp acidity abv: 20% Price: $30 and honeysuckle. Very subtle tones of banana and pine- is bright, and its alcohol is low. Pair it with tangy food. apple fill in the back and give the wine momentum and Editors’ Choice. —S.H. depth on the finish. Traditional Wine Innovations LLC. abv: 11% Price: $15 —M.L. abv: 12.5% Price: $15

BEST BUYS

Orion Wine NV Rosa Bianca Brut (Vene- Vigilance 2011 Chardonnay (Red Hills 87 to). Fresh and informal, this opens with tanger- 87 Lake County). Full and fleshy, with a tropi- ine aromas, followed by notes of passion fruit, citrus and cal edge, this is creamy in its vanilla and almond paste white flower. It’s easy and fresh, with tonic bubbling on flavors. With its layers of depth and richness, this is a the close. Traditional Wine Innovations LLC. —M.L. crowd-pleaser. —V.B. abv: 12% Price: $13 abv: 14.1% Price: $25 Calcu 2010 Cabernet Franc (Colchagua 90 Valley). Dark in color, this smells great, with cassis, plum and black cherry aromas, bearing very lit- tle herbal character. It feels tight and secure, with ripe blackberry, tobacco and oak flavors. Global Vineyard Importers. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $14

12 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | DECEMBER 2012 BEST BUYS BEST BUYS BEST BUYS

Edi Sim i 2010 Giocato 89 Pinot Grigio (Primorska). There’s a stunning mineral-driven edge to this concentrated Pinot Grigio. Full bod- ied yet elegant, it boasts fresh pear and melon flavors and a bristling lime-juice acidity. August Wine Group. Best Buy. —A.I. abv: 13.5% Price: $12 Mirassou 2011 Chardonnay (California). MontGras 2010 Reserva Cabernet Sau- There’s a lusciousness to this Chardonnay that vignon-Syrah (Colchagua Valley). Jammy 87 88 makes it really easy and fun to drink. It’s rich in orange red-berry aromas come with a hint of lemony oak. It marmalade, honey, buttered popcorn and vanilla fla- feels meaty, with a rich texture for a $12 wine. Flavors vors, brightened with crisp acidity. Best Buy. —S.H. of roasted black fruits come with an overriding peppery abv: 13.5% Price: $12 note and a touch of heat, but overall the wine is sturdy, flavorful and balanced. Palm Bay International. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $12

Woodbridge by Robert Mondavi 2011 87 Sauvignon Blanc (California). This is a styl- ish Sauvignon Blanc, bearing nice lemon and lime fla- Symington Family Estates 2009 Vale do vors, with a rich notes of tropical fruit and honey. The Viu Manent 2010 Gran Reserva Cabernet Bomfim (Douro).This big, bold, structured finish is clean and spicy. Best Buy. —S.H. Sauvignon (Colchagua Valley). Smooth 88 89 offering is full of ripe blackberry flavor and integrated abv: 12.9% Price: $8 on the nose, this has cassis and berry aromas that fill tannins. It is intensely rich and already delicious. Bom- out nicely with air. On the palate, it has a solid spine. A fim is the main winery for the Dow Port brand. Premi- creamy oak flavor blends nicely into raspberry and cas- um Port Wines, Inc. Best Buy. —R.V. sis notes. This shows Cabernet’s spice on the finish, with abv: 14% Price: $12 an herb accent. Baystate Wine & Spirits. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $14

Barefoot Bubbly NV Moscato Spumante 86 (California). This is overtly sweet, with a sug- ary edge to its vanilla and tangerine flavors. It has the clean quality you’d expect from a Barefoot sparkling Line 39 2010 Chardonnay (North Coast). wine, and will appeal broadly to the Moscato-loving 87 Bright and lemony, this has tight acidity and lay- crowd. Best Buy. —S.H. ers of toasty caramel and vanilla. This will pair with a abv: 10.5% Price: $11 Korbel NV Blanc de Noirs (California). wide range of dinner options and would make for a wor- 88 Slightly sweet, with scouring bubbles, this is thy go-to midweek wine. Best Buy. —V.B. one of Korbel’s fuller-bodied sparklers. It’s rich and de- abv: 13.5% Price: $10 licious in raspberry, strawberry, vanilla and dough fla- vors. For such a nice bubbly, this comes at an excellent price. Best Buy. —S.H. abv: 12% Price: $13

WineMag.com | 13 BEST BUYS GEORGIA DRY HUNGARIAN WINES 2009 Marani Vineyards Eszterbauer 2011 Nagyapám Kadarka 88 (Kakheti). Floral and herbaceous 89 (Szekszárd). Ripe raspberry, cherry and violet on the nose, there’s an abundant freshness to the red aromas shine on this standout red. Full-bodied in style, plum and pomegranate flavors on this elegant Saperavi. the palate is pristine, with ripe red fruit that’s balanced Dry in style, with brisk acidity, it balances a crisp, fruity by zippy cranberry acidity. Finishes long with a murmur profile with a backbone of coarse tannins. Corus LLC. of velvety tannins. Blue Danube Wine Co. —A.I. —A.I. abv: 14% Price: $18 abv: 13.5% Price: $16 Sauska 2010 Birsalmás Furmint (Tokaj). Telavi 2008 Marani Mukuzani Saperavi Notes of smoked hazelnuts mingle with scents Barefoot Bubbly NV Pink Moscato (Cali- 89 (Kakheti). Smooth and supple, with loads of of ripe pear and yellow flower on this dry, full-bodied fornia). What a delicious, easy-to-like bubbly. 88 86 juicy, ripe blackberry and plum flavors, this full-bodied, wine. It’s richly oaked, but bright, lemony acidity and It’s definitely on the sweet side, but crisp in acidity, with luscious red is another great bang-for-your-buck Geor- chalky minerality add balance. It finishes on a rich note raspberry jam, vanilla and buttered toast flavors. It will gian offering. Big, bold tannins persist on the palate of sweet cream and butter. Opici Wines. —A.I. pair nicely with ham sandwiches, fried chicken, fresh that’s laced with tasty, lingering notes of coffee and dark abv: 13.5% Price: $43 fruit. Best Buy. —S.H. chocolate. Perfect with winter braises and . Corus abv: 9.5% Price: $11 LLC. —A.I. Sz ke Matyás 2011 Zöld Veltelini Grüner abv: 13.5% Price: $14 89 Veltliner (Mátra). A note of white, waxy flower and a wisp of smoke on the nose introduce intense fla- Telavi 2010 Marani -Chardon- vors of tangerine, lime and peppery leaf on the palate. 87 nay (Kakheti). Brisk minerality and a hint of Bright acidity and a glimmer of wet stone linger on the hazelnut add savory tones to this blend of indigenous finish. Blue Danube Wine Co. Best Buy. —A.I. Georgian Rkatsiteli and Chardonnay. It’s dry and full- abv: 13% Price: $13 bodied, yet surprisingly sprightly, with bright acidity and delicate flavors of stone fruit and citrus rind. Corus Chateau Dereszla 2011 Semi-Dry (Tok- LLC. Best Buy. —A.I. 88 aji). A hefty dose of Muscat makes this Tokaji abv: 13.5% Price: $9 blend particularly flamboyant on the nose, with loads of sweet, waxy honeycomb and yellow flower aromas. It’s Telavi 2008 Satrapezo Saperavi (Kakhe- a shade off-dry, but steely acidity and a tart tangerine Arrogant Frog 2010 Lily Pad Noir Pinot ti). A rich, earthy mushroom note adds a rustic flavor cut through the sweetness, leaving only a touch Noir (Pays d’Oc). Vibrant notes of red cherry, 87 85 flair to this dark, ripe, full-bodied red. The palate is a of honey on the finish. One, LLC.Best Buy. plum and blueberry are partnered with earthy hints of shade sanguine, with hints of game and plum conserve —A.I. forest floor and cocoa. This is a solid selection that’s per- and a ripple of velvety tannins. It’s developing beauti- abv: 13% Price: $13 fect for entertaining. It’s well balanced, with light tan- fully, so drink now–2015. Corus LLC. —A.I. nins, lifted acidity and a medium-length, black-pepper- abv: 13.5% Price: $35 Pfneiszl 2010 Újra Együtt Kekfrankos kissed finish. Palm Bay International. Best Buy. —L.B. (Sopron). This Hungarian Kekfrankos, or abv: 13% Price: $9 88 Telavi 2009 Satrapezo 10 Qvevri Rkatsite- Blaufränkisch, packs quite a punch on the nose and pal- 87 li (Kakheti). Notes of rose and waxy flower ate, with ebullient red-fruit notes that are melded with mingle with savory nut and nut skin on this traditional- hints of green herb, briar and smoke. It is delicately ly-made . Long on the skins structured but remarkably complex through its long, in clay vessels gives it a deep, golden hue, and a concen- lingering finish. Blue Danube Wine Co. —A.I. trated palate, with flavors of tangerine, crushed stone abv: 12.5% Price: $15 and a bristle of grape-skin astringency. Corus LLC. —A.I. Royal Tokaji 2010 Furmint (Tokaj). Sweet abv: 13% Price: $30 87 honeysuckle and caramelized sugar notes are enticing on this dry yet honey-flavored Furmint. Full- Wine Man 2010 Saperavi (Kakheti). Dark, bodied, it features concentrated honeydew and apple 87 fleshy black-fruit and cocoa notes on the nose flavors and just a hint of green that lingers on the finish. and palate get a blast of zestiness from the persistent Wilson Daniels Ltd. —A.I. Royal Muscato NV Pink (Vin Mousseux). cranberry and spice flavors. It is full-bodied, with a firm abv: 13.5% Price: $16 Muscat’s typical sweetness and delicacy give this 85 layer of tannins that grip tightly on the finish. Corus an attractive balance of crisp acidity and ripe raspber- LLC. Best Buy. —A.I. Sauska 2009 Cuvée 107 (Tokaj). Waxy ry flavor. It’s light, lively and intensely fruity. Patriarche abv: 12.5% Price: $10 lemon-skin and smoked nut flavors add dimen- USA. Best Buy. —R.V. 87 sion to the concentrated notes of orange, apple and abv: 11% Price: $8 Telavi 2009 Marani White white flower on this dry, full-bodied blend of Hársleve- 86 (Kakheti). While aromatically subdued, this lu and Chardonnay. It is bold in structure, with a rich, is a refreshing, easy-drinking white blend, with pleas- round profile and a lusciously oaky finish. Opici Wines. ant lemon and apple flavors. A hint of orange peel and —A.I. a brisk, lime-accented acidity highlight the midpalate. abv: 14.5% Price: $55 Drink now. Corus LLC. Best Buy. —A.I. abv: 13.5% Price: $10 Sauska 2008 Cuvée 7 (Villány). Hints of 87 baking spice, smoke and black coffee add kick to the sweet black-plum and cherry flavors on this full- bodied red blend. It’s a big, luscious wine, with abun- dant vanilla and toasted oak notes, but hints of fresh

14 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | DECEMBER 2012 herb and peppery black spice add balance. Opici Wines. Royal Tokaji 2005 Betsek Aszú 6 Putton- citrus and apricot entice on this deliciously fruity Mus- —A.I. 91 yos (Tokaj). Heady with notes of orange mar- kat Ottonel. Semidry in style, the palate is generously abv: 15% Price: $55 malade and lavender, this honeyed Tokaji is remarkably sweetened with the juice of fresh yellow cherry and brisk. Its showstopping acidity shines through the layers peach. With so much zippy acidity, it finishes nearly dry. Sz ke Matyás 2011 Irsai Oliver (Mátra). of caramel and orange cream. Effortlessly long on the Bozic’s Imports. Best Buy. —A.I. 87 Intense notes of white flower and lemon peel palate, it is not at all cloying. Wilson Daniels Ltd. Edi- abv: 12% Price: $11 perfume this lovely aromatic white. Dry on the palate, tors’ Choice. —A.I. with tart tangerine and lime flavors, it is marked by hints abv: 9.5% Price: $104 Murfatlar 2010 Zestrea Demidulce Fe- of blossom and zesty lime pith. Crisp and tonic on the 88 teasca Neagra (Murfatlar). Despite Roma- finish. Drink now. Blue Danube Wine Co. —A.I. Patricius 2006 Leonis Aszú 3 Putton- nian labeling standards, this demidulce is only a shade abv: 13.5% Price: $13 90 yos (Tokaj). Almost lacy on the palate, with off-dry. The palate is intensely juicy with a ripe cher- a crisp, delicate structure, this effortlessly drinkable ry flavor that’s accented by layers of violet, fresh herb Sz ke Matyás 2011 Pinot Gris (Mátra). Tokaji is the perfect introduction to this genre of fine and a striking crushed-granite minerality. Easygoing el- 87 Savory notes of hazelnut skin and smoke are wine. Ebullient with scents of lime skin, white flower egance for an incredible value price. Bozic’s Imports. countered by crisp white-peach and tangerine flavors on and waxy honeycomb, its sweet fig and caramel palate Best Buy. —A.I. this brisk, refreshing Pinot Gris. Dry in style with zesty is cut with brisk, pineapple-driven acidity. Blue Danube abv: 11.5% Price: $9 acidity, it finishes on a faintly astringent note of lemon Wine Co. —A.I. skin. Drink now. Blue Danube Wine Co. —A.I. abv: 12% Price: $23 Senator 2011 Mon er Sarba (Dealurile abv: 13% Price: $13 88 Husilor). Ebullient on the nose and palate with Sauska 2003 Aszú 6 Puttonyos (Tokaj). notes of spring blossom, ripe peach and yellow cherry, Chateau Dereszla 2011 Dry (Tokaji). A 89 Dark herb aromas are a unique addition to clas- this is a concentrated, effortlessly quaffable 86 delicate honeycomb flavor fringes pleasant ap- sic characteristics of honeysuckle, caramel and fig on that balances fresh fruit flavor with striking acidity and ple and white flower notes on this dry, refreshing Tokaji this unctuously rich Tokaji. It’s intensely honeyed, with a glistening wet-stone minerality. Danex International. blend. Lemony acidity adds structure and length to the a creamy, custard-like mouthfeel, but it feels balanced Best Buy. —A.I. finish. This is good introduction to Tokaji for those who thanks to bright acidity and a long, floral finish. Opici abv: 13% Price: $10 prefer a dry style. Cognac One, LLC. —A.I. Wines. —A.I. abv: 13% Price: $15 abv: 10% Price: $90 Murfatlar 2011 Trei Hectare Feteasca Neagra (Murfatlar). Richly textured in fla- Törley NV Fortuna Doux (Hungary). 87 Gere Attila 2011 Portugieser Blauer Por- White vor and structure, this is fleshy with ripe red fruit that’s 86 tugieser (Villány). There’s plenty of ripe, 85 flower and pink bubblegum notes lend a slightly accented by soft tannins, dried lavender, and savory confected tone to this semisweet Hungarian sparkling fleshy red fruit on the nose and palate of this red, ac- smoked meat notes. Hints of dark chocolate and fresh wine, but it’s an undeniably drinkable, peach-flavored cented by hints of and fresh green herb. green herb cap off a long, juicy finish. Bozic’s Imports. sip, with sharp effervescence and a tasty sugar-cookie Soft and easy drinking, it has gentle acidity and tannins. Best Buy. —A.I. finish. Blue Danube Wine Co. —A.I. Blue Danube Wine Co. —A.I. abv: 12.5% Price: $11 abv: 7% Price: $13 abv: 12.5% Price: $15 Murfatlar 2010 Zestrea Demidulce Pinot Gere Attila 2011 Weninger & Gere Rosé MACEDONIA 87 Noir (Murfatlar). Despite Romanian label- 85 (Villány). There’s a chalky minerality that car- ing standards, this fruity Pinot Noir is just the slightest ries from the nose to the palate of this bone-dry Hun- Macedon 2010 Pinot Noir (Tikves). Lav- shade off-dry. Pleasantly jammy with sweet black-plum garian rosé, adding a touch of elegance to the fresh red 84 ender and ripe black-cherry aromas are enticing and dried fig flavors, it’s concentrated in flavor yet deli- cherry and raspberry flavors. It is easy drinking and bal- on this Pinot Noir. Dry and full bodied, it doesn’t have cate on its feet, with balanced alcohol and a bristle of anced in structure. Drink now. Blue Danube Wine Co. a lot of concentration, but it’s softly fruity, with hints of cranberry acidity. Bozic’s Imports. Best Buy. —A.I. —A.I. soil and autumn leaf. August Wine Group. —A.I. abv: 11.5% Price: $9 abv: 12% Price: $15 abv: 13% Price: $15 Murfatlar 2011 Zestrea Demisec Feteas- Sauska 2010 Cuvée 113 (Tokaji). Concen- 87 ca Regala (Murfatlar). Hints of sun-dried 85 trated apple and pear flavors are flecked with ROMANIA hay and honey add rustic charm to crisp yellow-peach notes of honey and tangerine skin on this dry blend of Cramele Recas 2011 Paparuda Rezer- and apricot flavors on the nose and palate of this off-dry, traditional Tokaji and international grapes. There’s a 88 va Cabernet Sauvignon (Viile Timi ului). aromatic wine. Spritely with lemon-lime acidity, it fin- trace vein of green, vegetal notes, but it’s refreshing and Fresh herb and green flower flavors mingle with notes ishes with a refreshing spray of cut green herb. Bozic’s easy drinking. Opici Wines. —A.I. of chocolate and sun-dried hay on this bold but impec- Imports. Best Buy. —A.I. abv: 13% Price: $25 cably balanced Cabernet. Intensly concentrated on the abv: 11% Price: $11 palate, it has a ripe cassis flavor and soft, silky tannins that linger. BCI LLC. Best Buy. —A.I. Senator 2010 Varius Sauvignon Blanc SWEET HUNGARIAN abv: 14.5% Price: $12 87 (Viile Cara ului). This is concentrated on the WINES nose and palate, with ripe, fleshy peach and a spray of Cramele Recas 2011 Paparuda Rezerva yellow flower. Dry and medium bodied, it features zesty Sauska 2003 Aszú Essencia (Tokaj). Es- 88 Feteasca Regala (Viile Timi ului). Honey- acidity and a hint of green herb on the finish. A great 93 sencia is the rare free-run juice from botrytized suckle and sweet marzipan notes perfume this aromatic value wine to be enjoyed now. Danex International. Tokaji grapes, and if you’ve ever wondered what all the white wine. Concentrated fresh peach and flower notes Best Buy. —A.I. fuss is about, this bottle is as reasonably priced as it gets. on the palate are enlivened by a spray of lime-juice acid- abv: 12.5% Price: $10 It boasts an unctuously creamy palate that’s full of de- ity and a murmur of salinity on the finish. A pretty wine licious honey, tropical fruit and vanilla-caramel notes. at an irresistible price. BCI LLC. Best Buy. —A.I. Cramele Recas 2011 Dreamfish Char- It’s flecked with a white flower tone, with striking acid- abv: 13.5% Price: $12 86 donnay (Recas). Pretty on the nose and pal- ity that lingers on the finish. Opici Wines.Editors’ ate with an abundance of spring flower, pineapple and Choice. —A.I. Murfatlar 2011 Zestrea Demidulce Mus- vanilla-cream notes, this dry, full-bodied Chardonnay is abv: 8% Price: $150 88 kat Ottonel (Murfatlar). Aromas of sunny easygoing but impeccably made. Judiciously oaked, it

WineMag.com | 15 finishes on a sweet-and-salty caramel note. Tri-Vin Im- vors are accented by hints of smoke, salted butter and ports. Best Buy. —A.I. a beautiful crushed-stone minerality. It is dry and full- CASTEL DEL MONTE abv: 13.5% Price: $6 bodied with rich texture and sprightly acidity. August Rivera 2006 Puer Apuliae Nero di Troia Wine Group. —A.I. 92 (Castel del Monte). Named after King Fed- Cramele Recas 2011 Paparuda Estate abv: 14.5% Price: $45 erico II who left an important cultural mark on southern 86 Collection Cabernet Sauvignon (Viile Italy, Puer Apuliae (“the son of Puglia”) is an iconic wine Timi ului). Notes of cedar and violet meld with a ripe, Valter Sirk 2010 Rebula Ribolla Gialla made using indigenous Nero di Troia grapes. The wine juicy black-fruit flavor in this bold, deeply concentrated 90 (Goriška Brda). For full review see page 11. opens with soft chocolate, ripe cherry, espresso, spice Cabernet. Softer and riper than the Rezerva, it has a abv: 13% Price: $30 and blackberry aromas. The mouthfeel is soft, plush and slightly grapey midpalate. It’s full-bodied in style, with firm. Bedford International. —M.L. a frame of lush, furry tannins. BCI LLC. Best Buy. Edi Sim i 2010 Giocato Pinot Grigio abv: 13.5% Price: $70 —A.I. 89 (Primorska). For full review see page 13. Best abv: 14.5% Price: $9 Buy. Tormaresca 2008 Bocca di Lupo Agliani- abv: 13.5% Price: $12 91 co (Castel del Monte). Bocca di Lupo is a Cramele Recas 2011 UnWineD Pinot Gri- top-shelf red that offers enormous beauty and inten- 86 gio (Viile Timi ului). Notes of sun-dried hay Bastianich 2010 Adriatico Ribolla (Brda). sity in the form of ripe fruit, chocolate fudge, leather, and green flower highlight the nose and palate of this 87 Impeccably refreshing, this Ribolla Gialla is full tobacco and blackberry pie. The tannins are tight and fresh, easy-quaffing wine. Concentrated tangerine and of sweet, fresh apple and melon flavors. Chalky miner- firm, and the long finish is characterized by black cherry pineapple flavors are brisk and tasty. Cornerstone U.S. ality and a shower of lemon-lime acidity add nerve and and toasted espresso bean. Ste. Michelle Wine Estates. Wine Imports. Best Buy. —A.I. elegance. Dark Star Imports. —A.I. —M.L. abv: 12.5% Price: $4 abv: 12.5% Price: $16 abv: NA Price: $NA

Murfatlar 2011 Trei Hectare Chardonnay Valter Sirk 2010 Malvazija (Goriška Torrevento 2008 Vigna Pedale Riserva 86 (Murfatlar). Green flower and herb notes lend 87 Brda). A musky white-flower note melds into 90 Nero di Troia (Castel del Monte). There’s freshness to this dry, full-bodied wine. Firmly struc- savory notes of hazelnut oil and nut skin on the nose and a warm note of black cherry and chocolate fudge that tured with pleasant white-peach and lemon flavors, it’s palate of this smoky, rather mysterious wine. Tart with make a bold and intense first impression. The palate has straightforward and tasty. Drink now. Bozic’s Imports. tangerine acidity, it’s refreshingly brisk but finishes long bitter almond and bright fruit flavors. This is a very nice Best Buy. —A.I. with a hint of smoky vanilla. Vias Imports. —A.I. wine from the little-known Castel del Monte denomina- abv: 14.5% Price: $11 abv: 13% Price: $30 tion. Majestic Imports. —M.L. abv: 13% Price: $NA Senator 2009 Monser Feteasca Neagra 86 (Dealurile Hu ilor). Lifted blackberry and TURKEY Rivera 2005 Cappellaccio Riserva Agli- cherry aromas introduce this lush, full-bodied wine Kayra 2009 Vintage Single Vineyard Col- 89 anico (Castel del Monte). This is a deep, that offers a black-cherry flavor. Savory hints of smoked 88 lectible Series #5 Öküzgözü (Elazig). Ex- masculine Aglianico that opens with bold, inky con- meat, and bold, velvety tannins add structure otic spice and savory meat tones add dimension to sultry centration and intense aromas of blackberry preserves, and dimension. Danex International. Best Buy. —A.I. black-fruit and fig flavors. Dry and full bodied in style, leather and spices. The tannins are rock solid, firm and abv: 13% Price: $11 it’s richly textured with a bold yet velvety tannin struc- dry. Bedford International. —M.L. ture. Maritime Wine Trading Collective. —A.I. abv: 13.5% Price: $20 Murfatlar 2010 Trei Hectare Roze Caber- abv: 14.5% Price: $20 85 net Sauvignon (Murfatlar). Fresh red-cher- Santa Lucia 2008 Vigna del Melograno ry and strawberry flavors are vibrant on this dry, mouth- 88 Nero di Troia (Castel del Monte). There quenching Romanian rosé. It is elegantly structured, SOUTHERN ITALY are raw, bright qualities of cherry liqueur and raspberry with a splash of lemon-lime acidity and a hint of herba- syrup that open the nose. It shows solid and polished ceous green on the finish. Bozic’s Imports. —A.I. WHITE WINES tannins. A Marc de Grazia selection; various American abv: 12.5% Price: $11 importers. —M.L. Antica Enotria 2011 Daunia Falanghina abv: 14% Price: $16 87 (Puglia). This is a clear, bright and tonic white SLOVENIA wine from the deep south of Italy, showing aromas of Tormaresca 2008 Trentangeli (Castel del Edi Sim i 2006 Duet Lex (Goriška Brda). honeysuckle, pineapple and pear. The fruit used for this 87 Monte). Made principally from organically- 91 Lifted blackberry and cherry aromas meld into easygoing white is farmed organically. Lettieri & Co. farmed Aglianico grapes, this delivers steady aromas of flavors of ripe black-fruit, violet and black pepper on —M.L. ripe fruit, prune, tobacco and cured meat. The mouth- this bold, beautiful Bordeaux-style blend. It’s richly con- abv: 12.5% Price: $17 feel is lean, bright and slightly bitter. Ste. Michelle Wine centrated, with vibrant acidity and lush, furry tannins. Estates. —M.L. Orion Wine 2010 Rocca del Dragone Fa- Generously spiced on the finish. August Wine Group. abv: 14% Price: $NA langhina (Campania). Editors’ Choice. —A.I. 87 For full review see abv: 15% Price: $75 page 12. abv: 12.5% Price: $15 TAURASI Edi Sim i 2010 Sauvignon (Goriška Mastroberardino 2006 Radici (Taurasi). Feudi di San Marzano 2011 Sud Verdeca Brda). Grassy, herbal notes add a pungent kick Radici is a landmark red wine for Italy, because 90 (Puglia). Made from the little-known Verdeca 92 to aromas of ripe yellow peach and melon on this gor- 85 it shows the high-quality wine-making potential of the grape, this easy white is aged in stainless steel to pre- geously fruity, floral wine. Full-bodied in style, it has a south. A hearty and sophisticated expression of Agliani- serve the integrity and pureness of its fresh fruit aro- richly textured mouthfeel. August Wine Group. —A.I. co, this opens with smoky aromas of crushed mineral, mas. Citrus, peach and honey appear on the bouquet, abv: 14.5% Price: $45 black peppercorn, ripe fruit and cola. It shows firm tan- and the wine is crisp on the close. Vin Divino. —M.L. abv: 12.5% Price: $15 nins and impressive length. Winebow. —M.L. Edi Sim i 2009 Chardonnay (Goriška abv: 13.5% Price: $60 90 Brda). There’s so much nuance to this mul- tifaceted Chardonnay. Sunny tangerine and apple fla-

16 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | DECEMBER 2012 Terredora 2005 Fatica Contadina (Taur- Li Veli 2007 Pezzo Morgana (Salice Sal- Nero and Greco) that are cultivated in one of the most 89 asi). This shows delicate tones of blue flower, 87 entino). Pezzo Morgana is a hearty red wine isolated spots in southern Italy. Black cherry, chocolate dried lavender, moist earth and tobacco leaf. There are that opens with savory aromas of ripe blackberry, leath- and exotic spice notes lend a soft, silky feel to the wine. even touches of honey and roasted chestnut in the back- er and cured meat. The finish is smooth and rich. Dalla Vindagra USA. —M.L. ground. The mouthfeel is dry, firm and dusty. Vias Im- Terra Winery Direct. —M.L. abv: 13% Price: $NA ports. —M.L. abv: 13% Price: $NA abv: 13.5% Price: $33 Verrone 2003 Aglianico (Cilento). Thanks 88 to its many years of bottle aging, this savory of- Tenuta Cavalier Pepe 2006 Opera Mia SALENTO fering shows a sweet spice aroma, with candied raspber- (Taurasi). ry and cinnamon overtones. The structure is firm and 88 This shows a bold, overdone bou- Botter 2010 Caleo Primitivo (Salento). quet of Indian spice, bitter chocolate, crushed steady, but there is a polished, smooth quality to the tan- This easy-drinking Primitivo opens with dark, and black pepper. The tannins are firm and astringent, 88 nins. Bazzini Wine Merchants. —M.L. inky concentration and sweet aromas of ripe fruit, cin- and the wine leaves a huge impression on the palate: it’s abv: 14.5% Price: $NA namon and . The mouthfeel is plush, rich and almost too much of a good thing. Fourcade & Hecht velvety soft. Total Wine & More. —M.L. Lucania 2009 Gricos (Aglianico del Vul- Wine Selections. —M.L. abv: 13% Price: $NA abv: 14% Price: $28 87 ture). This is a clean and polished Agliani- co that shows dark berry and plum aromas followed Schola Sarmenti di Terrulenta 2007 Cu- by notes of tar, licorice and toasted nut. It has power bardi Primitivo (Salento). Hearty and con- 88 and structure, all for a very low price. Oliver McCrum PUGLIA centrated, this opens with savory aromas of cured meat, Wines. Best Buy. —M.L. La Corte 2009 Solyss Old Vines Negroa- blackberry and toasted espresso bean. There’s a sweet abv: 13.5% Price: $11 88 maro (Salento). Here is a bold, meaty expres- note of black fruit on the close, followed by a soft, sion of Negroamaro, with flavors of ripe fruit, blackber- chewy texture. Acid Inc Selections. —M.L. Spadafora 2007 Nerello (Calabria). This ry preserves, tobacco and soft chocolate. The mouthfeel abv: 15% Price: $NA pretty red blend of Magliocco and Montonico is soft, velvety and rich. Michelangelo Imports. —M.L. 87 Nero opens with bright aromas of red cherry and black- abv: 14% Price: $NA Schola Sarmenti di Terrulenta 2007 Ar- berry. It shows nice firmness and medium consistency. tetica (Salento). A blend of 70% Primitivo 87 Vindagra USA. —M.L. Villa Schinosa 2008 Laghiglione (Pug- and 30% Negroamaro, this opens with jammy aromas of abv: 13% Price: $NA 87 lia). A blend of Primitivo and Syrah, this shows ripe blackberry, moist tobacco and milk chocolate. The bright aromas of cherry and blackberry, with a light mouthfeel is rich and chewy, with a touch of bitter al- Spadafora 2008 Vigna Fiego (Donnici). touch of exotic spice. The soft, easy, velvety mouthfeel mond. Acid Inc Selections. —M.L. There’s a fresh, bright quality to this blend of would pair well with roast pork or grilled sausage. Guidi abv: 14% Price: $NA 87 Magliocco, Greco Nero and Malvasia grapes. It delivers Marcello. —M.L. aromas of crushed white pepper, prune and exotic spice. abv: 12.5% Price: $NA Feudi di San Marzano 2008 Sud Malva- Vindagra USA. —M.L. sia (Salento). This expression shows aromas 86 abv: 13% Price: $NA Fatalone 2007 Teres Primitivo (Puglia). of bright cherry, cola and almond paste. It’s an easy, in- The expression of this wine is so light that it formal red wine, with a bitter touch on the close. Vin 83 Vesevo 2009 Aglianico (Beneventano). could probably be classified as a rosé, though its label Divino. —M.L. This opens with sweet aromas of nutmeg and does not describe it as such. Made using organically- abv: 13% Price: $NA 87 cinnamon, with bright tones of cassis and white cher- farmed fruit, it shows bright berry and white cherry fla- ry in the background. The firm, fresh mouthfeel would vors, with crisp acidity. Astor Wines. —M.L. pair well with grilled meat or sausage. Vin Divino. abv: 13% Price: $16 OTHER RED WINES —M.L. Tenuta del Portale 2004 Riserva (Agli- abv: 13% Price: $NA 90 anico del Vulture). There’s a soapy, floral SALICE SALENTINO element to this wine that recalls lavender oil or rose Vita Italia 2008 Primitivo di Manduria. Leone de Castris 2007 Donna Lisa Riser- water. Aromas of crushed mineral, spice and leather are 86 Here’s a simple and bright expression of Prim- 92 va (Salice Salentino). This is a plush and all present. The mouthfeel is lean and compact, but it itivo, offering aromas of blackberry, cherry and bitter opulent blend of Negroamaro and Malvasia Nera that also shows polished tannins. Saranty Imports. —M.L. chocolate. It offers a chiseled, sharp mouthfeel. Villa opens with bold aromas of blackberry preserves, choco- abv: 13% Price: $NA Italia. —M.L. late, tobacco and spice. The wine is lush, balanced and abv: 14.5% Price: $NA dense on the close. Winebow. —M.L. Ognissole 2008 Primitivo di Manduria. abv: 14% Price: $NA 88 This wine, whose producer is owned by Cam- Fatalone 2006 Primitivo (Gioia del Colle). pania’s celebrated Feudi di San Gregorio, bears a dense 85 Made using organically-farmed Primitivo Leone de Castris 2006 Donna Lisa Riser- consistency and pretty aromas of blackberry, cola, cher- grapes, this features aromas of licorice, crushed granite 90 va (Salice Salentino). This is a pretty wine ry and tobacco. Palm Bay International. —M.L. and candied fruit. The acidity is bright and lively. Astor based mostly on Negroamaro with some Malvasia Nera, abv: 14.5% Price: $NA Wines. —M.L. showing a soft, velvety texture and sophisticated notes of abv: 15% Price: $17 cherry liqueur and blackberry syrup. Winebow. —M.L. Schola Sarmenti di Terrulenta 2008 Roc- abv: 14% Price: $NA 88 camora (Nardò). This delivers soft aromas of Fatalone 2004 Riserva Primitivo (Gioia leather, blackberry preserves, tobacco and dark choco- 85 del Colle). This is an that offers Cantele 2007 Riserva (Salice Salen- late. The grape is Negroamaro, and the wine’s mouth- tertiary aromas of candied fruit, crushed stone and lico- 89 tino). A streamlined and elegant expression feel is rich, velvety and smooth. Acid Inc Selections. rice. The mouthfeel is impressively chiseled, bright and of Negroamaro and Malvasia Nera, this doesn’t show —M.L. pristine. Astor Wines. —M.L. the cooked or jammy tones that are all too common in abv: 13.5% Price: $NA abv: 15% Price: $NA southern Italian reds. Instead, the velvety finish is char- acterized by notes of tobacco and blackberry. Vias Im- Spadafora 2005 Telesio Riserva (Don- ports. Best Buy. —M.L. 88 nici). There’s a modern, velvety touch to this abv: 13% Price: $12 blend of indigenous grapes (Magliocco, Montonico

WineMag.com | 17 sparkler offers bright floral aromas of honeysuckle and honey, with loads of peach and apricot. Selected Estates ITALY spring flower, with pretty tones of stone fruit and pas- of Europe Ltd. —M.L. SPARKLING WINES sion fruit. There’s a touch of fruity sweetness backed by abv: 12.5% Price: $40 foamy, thick perlage. Franco Wine Imports. —M.L. TRENTO abv: 12% Price: $18 La Montina NV Satèn Argens (Francia- 91 corta). There are subtle floral elements here Ferrari 2001 Giulio Ferrari Riserva del Piera Martellozzo NV Perle di Piera Yel- of yellow rose and jasmine that give this a feminine and 92 Fondatore (Trento). A landmark wine for 85 low Pearl Ribolla Gialla (Delle Venezie). A elegant personality. But the wine has substance and those who love Italian sparklers, this shows loads of ripe bright sparkling wine made from Ribolla Gialla grapes, staying power, too, in its flavors of stone fruit, melon apricot, melon and honey notes, with toasted nut and this has thick aromas of stone fruit, butterscotch and and toasted nut. The perlage is soft and steady, and a baked bread hints in the background. There are also caramel. The finish is fresh, with creamy effervescence. pretty note of acidity appears on the finish. Vino Direct. touches of caramel and butterscotch that help move Vinoterra Importers. —M.L. —M.L. the wine’s thick and opulent texture across the palate. It abv: 12% Price: $20 abv: 12.5% Price: $36 ends with refreshing acidity and tonic perlage. Palm Bay International. Cellar Selection. —M.L. Le Marchesine 2008 Satèn Millesimato abv: 12.5% Price: $85 FRANCIACORTA 91 (Franciacorta). Creamy and rich, with bright Fratelli Berlucchi 2005 Casa delle Col- aromas of stone fruit, melon, drying mineral and hon- Altemasi 2004 Graal Riserva Brut (Tren- onne Zero Riserva Millesimato (Francia- ey, this beautiful Chardonnay-based sparkler shows the to). For full review see page 9. 93 best of Franciacorta. The mouthfeel is textured, fine 91 corta). This beautiful sparkler rested on its lees for 70 abv: 12% Price: $45 and long-lasting. Lyra Wine. —M.L. months, giving it extra smoothness and rich denseness. abv: 13% Price: $45 Ferrari NV Brut Rosé (Trento). Year after The bouquet is redolent of apricot, ripe fruit, melon and lightly toasted baguette. The mouthfeel is long, elegant 91 year, this is a fantastic rosé sparkler that can be Berlucchi NV Cuvée ’61 Brut (Franciacor- and driven by fine perlage. Selected Estates of Europe served at informal and formal occasions alike. There’s a ta). For full review see page 10. Ltd. Cellar Selection. —M.L. 90 yeasty note of baked bread followed by rose petal, stone abv: 12.5% Price: $30 fruit and wild berry scents. The wine (60% Pinot Nero abv: 13% Price: $55 and 40% Chardonnay) is creamy and rich on the palate. Castello Bonomi NV Brut Satén (Francia- Contadi Castaldi 2007 Brut Satèn (Fran- Palm Bay International. Editors’ Choice. —M.L. corta). Smooth and fresh, this Chardonnay- ciacorta). Made from Chardonnay grapes, 90 abv: 12.5% Price: $24 92 based sparker offers apricot, Golden Delicious apple, this metodo classico opens with creamy aromas of apri- honey and toasted almond. It shows a rich, thick per- cot, honey, citrus and blanched almond. The wine feels Ferrari 2006 Perlé (Trento). This is rich, sonality capped by the freshness of its acidity and zesty smooth, rich and silky on the finish, with small, elegant 91 creamy and zesty at the same time, redolent effervescence. GOS Wines. —M.L. perlage. Terra Moretti Trading. —M.L. of citrus, peach, pear and Golden Delicious apple, fol- abv: 12.5% Price: $46 lowed by opulent tones of toasted nut and freshly baked abv: 12.5% Price: $34 bread. Bright acidity brings the wine to a refreshing Fratelli Berlucchi 2008 Brut Millesimanto Fratelli Muratori 2004 Villa Crespia Riser- close. Palm Bay International. —M.L. (Franciacorta). This blend of 90% Chardon- va dei Consoli Brut (Franciacorta). A cu- 90 abv: 12.5% Price: $33 92 nay with Pinot Bianco and Pinot Nero has a delicate and vée of the best Chardonnay grapes, this sparkler is rich feminine bouquet of white rose, stone fruit, citrus and and smooth, with intense aromas of stone fruit, honey, Ferrari NV Brut (Trento). This bright spar- lightly toasted nut. It delivers a soft, fine texture with apricot and baked bread. The mouthfeel is long and sat- 90 kler delivers the sophisticated flavors of fresh steady perlage. Selected Estates of Europe Ltd. —M.L. isfying, thanks to the persistence of the perlage. Wine citrus and ripe apricot that one should expect in a meto- abv: 12.5% Price: $35 do classico sparkler from Italy. Background notes of Wave. —M.L. honey and baked bread give it dimension and texture. abv: 13% Price: $90 Fratelli Berlucchi 2008 Brut Rosé Milles- Palm Bay International. Editors’ Choice. —M.L. imato (Franciacorta). This is a delicate and Le Marchesine 2007 Brut Millesimato 90 abv: 12.5% Price: $24 feminine rosé sparkler that opens with a beautifully pale Blanc de Blancs (Franciacorta). Beau- 92 pink color and subtle aromas of wild berry, tangerine tiful intensity and sophistication open the bouquet of skin, white almond and passion fruit. It shows elegance this wine. It shows an age-driven evolution of aromas DELLE VENEZIE on the palate, with fine perlage and tangy crispness. Se- with background notes of candied fruit, apricot, Golden lected Estates of Europe Ltd. —M.L. Piera Martellozzo NV Perle di Piera Pink Delicious apple, baked bread and honey. The perlage is abv: 12.5% Price: $37 86 Pearl Rosé (Delle Venezie). Part of a se- fine, softly textured and persistent. Lyra Wine. —M.L. ries of sparkling wines from Piera Martellozzo, this is abv: 13% Price: $50 Fratelli Muratori NV Villa Crespia Numero a blend of Raboso and Pinot Nero. In fact, the wine’s Zero (Franciacorta). Exceptionally creamy bright pink color comes from the former varietal and Fratelli Berlucchi 2008 Pas Dosé (Fran- 90 and rich, this beautiful Chardonnay-based sparker of- its delicate floral bouquet from the latter. Vinoterra Im- ciacorta). This elegant sparkling blend of 91 fers smooth consistency backed by stone fruit, citrus, porters. —M.L. Chardonnay, Pinot Bianco and Pinot Nero is toasty and toasted almond and melon. The wine is characterized abv: 12% Price: $20 rich with aromas of apricot, honey, Golden Delicious by density and crispness. Wine Wave. Editors’ Choice. apple and oven-toasted bread. The mouthfeel is supple —M.L. Piera Martellozzo NV Perle di Piera Sil- and rich, with fine pulses of effervescence and fresh- abv: 13% Price: $39 86 ver Pearl Pinot Grigio (Delle Venezie). ness. Selected Estates of Europe Ltd. —M.L. There aren’t too many sparkling Pinot Grigios, but this abv: 12.5% Price: $38 Majolini NV Altèra Brut Rosé (Francia- is the one to try if you’re curious. It offers substance and corta). This has a beautiful pale-pink color, creaminess, with a subtle bouquet of citrus and stone Fratelli Berlucchi 2008 Satèn Millesima- 90 and bears aromas of wild flower, bitter almond and for- fruit. Vinoterra Importers. —M.L. to (Franciacorta). There’s a very fine, elegant 91 est berry, with a touch of herb. The wine offers steady abv: 12% Price: $20 quality to this sparkling wine, evident in both the bou- perlage and refreshing crispness. Franciacorta Imports. quet and in the soft intensity of its perlage. Creamy and —M.L. Piera Martellozzo NV 075 Carati Mül- rich, it delivers tones of Golden Delicious apple and 85 ler-Thurgau (Delle Venezie). This fragrant abv: 13% Price: $45

18 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | DECEMBER 2012 Majolini 2006 Pas Dosé Millesimato bouquet. Similar flavors follow on the palate, with crisp aromas of jasmine and pink rose, with sweet notes of 90 (Franciacorta). This lively sparkler opens with acidity and steely effervescence. Wine Wave. —M.L. marzipan and honey at the back. The perlage is smooth ripe aromas of apricot, honey and candied fruit that are abv: 12.5% Price: $33 and creamy. Vino Direct. —M.L. backed by notes of freshly baked bread and toasted al- abv: 12.5% Price: $29 mond. Made from Chardonnay that rests on the lees for La Montina NV Brut (Franciacorta). Mostly three years, it also shows creamy richness on the finish. 89 Chardonnay, with 15% Pinot Nero, this bright Franciacorta Imports. —M.L. sparkler opens with impressive aromatic intensity, PROSECCO abv: 12.5% Price: $39 bearing notes of peach, passion fruit and lightly toast- Canevel 2011 Brut (Conegliano Valdob- ed almond. There’s a soft, creamy quality to the per- biadene Prosecco Superiore). A tiny per- Majolini 2005 Brut Millesimato Electo lage, backed by fresh acidity on the finish. Vino Direct. 88 centage of Chardonnay gives this lightly fragrant spar- (Franciacorta). A sparkling blend of Char- —M.L. 90 kler extra dimension and smoothness on the finish. donnay and Pinot Nero, this opens with ripe aromas of abv: 12.5% Price: $30 Bright and easygoing, it offers citrus, peach and Gold- melon and peach, backed by a hint of almond skin and en Delicious apple aromas. Selected Estates of Europe a touch of zesty lemon rind. The fullness and generos- Le Marchesine NV Extra Brut (Francia- Ltd. —M.L. corta). A classic sparkling blend, this fresh ity of the mouthfeel is capped by tonic, steady perlage. 89 abv: 11% Price: $20 Franciacorta Imports. —M.L. offering shows a dry, steely side that is enhanced by a abv: 13% Price: $44 citrus aroma and a dusty mineral tone. There’s a sharp Piera Martellozzo NV Perle di Piera Blue firmness to the perlage as well. Lyra Wine. —M.L. Pearl (Prosecco). This pretty expression of Ricci Curbastro NV Brut Rosé (Francia- abv: 12.5% Price: $40 87 Prosecco opens with distinct aromas of white flower, corta). This beautiful rosé sparkler offers sub- 90 honey and passion fruit. The quality of the perlage is tle aromas of peach, grapefruit, rose petal and wild ber- Majolini NV Brut (Franciacorta). A blend firm and bright, with a steady delivery of mouth-cleans- ry. The quality of the perlage is bright, long and steady. of 90% Chardonnay and 10% Pinot Nero, this 89 ing effervescence. Vinoterra Importers. —M.L. opens with dry aromas of almond, pear and stone fruit. Domenico Valentino. —M.L. abv: 11% Price: $20 abv: 12.5% Price: $50 The wine delivers smoothness and medium texture, with a tonic, bubbly close. Franciacorta Import. —M.L. Bocelli NV Prosecco. From Italian tenor An- Ricci Curbastro 2007 Extra Brut (Fran- abv: 12.5% Price: $31 drea Bocelli and his family (vintners in Tuscany ciacorta). Equal parts Pinot Nero and Char- 86 90 for 130 years) comes this bright, cheerful sparkler. It donnay, this lovely sparkler opens with fresh aromas of Ricci Curbastro NV Brut (Franciacorta). shows crisp acidity, ease, tonic effervescence and overall yellow rose, stone fruit and lemon zest. It shows lively A sparkling blend of Chardonnay, Pinot Bian- 89 harmony. August Wine Group. —M.L. co and Pinot Nero, this offers clean aromas of peach, density, crisp freshness and drying mineral tones on the abv: 12% Price: $19 close. Domenico Valentino. —M.L. grapefruit and yellow rose. The finish is smooth, long and capped by zesty effervescence. Domenico Valen- abv: 12.5% Price: $47 Botter NV Bolle (Prosecco). “Bolle,” which tino. —M.L. is Italian for “bubbles,” plays up its cheerful and Ricci Curbastro 2007 Satèn Brut (Fran- abv: 12.5% Price: $39 86 playful side with bright aromas of citrus, peach, passion ciacorta). This is a lovely sparkling wine with 90 fruit and green apple. It washes down easily thanks to bright intensity and loads of fruit-based aromas. Based Villa 2008 Satèn Brut Millesimato (Fran- the wine’s natural acidity. Total Wine & More. —M.L. ciacorta). Offering aromas of citrus, stone on Chardonnay, it presents a uniform and generous 89 abv: 11% Price: $15 mouthfeel with cleansing, fine perlage. Imports Inc. fruit, white almond and toasted baguette, this also has a smooth, creamy density on the finish. The cleansing —M.L. Botter NV Santinello (Prosecco). Fresh, perlage would pair well with shellfish or raw seafood. abv: 12.5% Price: $47 fun and informal, this bright offering opens with Just Quality Importer. —M.L. 86 easy aromas of citrus, green apple and peach. The bub- Villa 2006 Cuvette Brut Millesimato abv: 12.5% Price: $39 bling is steady and tonic, followed by fresh acidity. Total (Franciacorta). Feminine and delicate, this 90 Wine & More. —M.L. Villa 2007 Brut Millesimato (Franciacor- has pretty highlights of peach, citrus, white almond and abv: 11% Price: $17 toasted bread. It feels creamy and generous, with tonic, 89 ta). This exceeds most Chardonnays’ qualities firm effervescence. Just Quality Importer. —M.L. of creamy freshness and background aromas of citrus Botter NV Tesoro della Regina (Prosec- and stone fruit. The perlage is lively and persistent, abv: 12.5% Price: $40 co). Here’s an easy and fresh Prosecco that and the wine ends with a blast of lemon freshness. Just 86 would wash down with appetizers or light chicken sal- Castello Bonomi NV Cru Perdu Brut Quality Importer. —M.L. ad. The bright sparkler delivers aromas of citrus, pear (Franciacorta). Cru Perdu Brut is a blend of abv: 12.5% Price: $37 89 and white flower, followed by firm, steely perlage. Total 70% Chardonnay and 30% Pinot Nero, with subtle in- Wine & More. —M.L. Fratelli Berlucchi NV Brut 25 (Franciacor- tensity and delicate aromas of yellow flower, stone fruit, abv: 11% Price: $20 apricot and lemon zest. There’s a touch of almond-like 88 ta). Named for the number of months it takes

bitterness on the close, with tight, even-flowing perlage. to go from grape to glass, Brut 25 is a steely, tonic wine, Tommasi NV Filodora Brut (Prosecco). with bright aromas of citrus, pear and peach. Selected GOS Wines. —M.L. A new product from the Tommasi family (cel- Estates of Europe Ltd. —M.L. 86 abv: 12.5% Price: $43 ebrated for its Amarone and other hearty red wines), abv: 12.5% Price: $29 this is light and fresh, with aromas of citrus, stone fruit Fratelli Berlucchi NV Brut 25 (Franciacor- and white flowers. Vintus LLC. —M.L. ta). Ronco Calino NV Brut (Franciacorta). Lu- 89 This Chardonnay-based sparkler offers aro- abv: 11.5% Price: $13 mas of yellow rose, apricot, honey and toasted almond. 88 minous and bright, with an intense bouquet of citrus and yellow rose, this pretty Italian sparkler keeps Steely, firm perlage makes this a great wine to sip as Voveti NV Prosecco. Fresh, fragrant and the palate refreshed and clean. The finish is dry, crisp you socialize before a meal. Selected Estates of Europe light, this delivers a touch of sweetness, fol- and zesty. Michael Skurnik Wines. —M.L. 86 Ltd. —M.L. lowed by aromas of citrus, white flowers and peach. It’s abv: 13% Price: $30 abv: 12.5% Price: $NA crisp, easy and bright on the finish, with steely efferves- cence. Freixenet USA. —M.L. Fratelli Muratori NV Villa Crespia Nova- La Montina NV Rosé Demi Sec (Francia- abv: 11% Price: $17 89 lia Brut (Franciacorta). Creamy notes of al- 87 corta). A blend of 60% Pinot Nero and 40% mond paste, ripe apricot and lemon mousse open the Chardonnay, this pretty off-dry sparkler delivers floral

WineMag.com | 19 Bellussi NV Enrico Brut (Prosecco). foods such as pasta in cream sauce or boiled meats. Op- metodo classico style, it closes with fresh acidity and fine 85 Here’s a well-priced wine that offers drying ici Wines. —M.L. perlage. Lyra Wine. —M.L. tones of crushed stone and flint, with background notes abv: 9% Price: $19 abv: 12% Price: $31 of green apple and citrus. The wine is tonic and crisp overall. Jack Poust & Co., Inc. —M.L. Quarticello 2011 Despina Malvasia (Emil- Arunda NV Excellor Brut Rosé (Alto abv: 11% Price: $11 84 ia). Made using an aromatic clone of Malvasia, 88 Adige). This opens with aromas of wild ber- this is a slightly sweet sparkler that would work beauti- ry, citrus, peach, grapefruit and spring flower. The ap- Bellussi NV Enrico Extra Dry (Prosecco). fully with appetizers or tapas. It shows a light hay col- pearance is elegant and feminine, as is the impression 85 Touches of sweet peach and honey open the or and aromas of peach and honey. Savio Soares Selec- it leaves on the palate. Selected Estates of Europe Ltd. bouquet of this easygoing, well-priced sparkler. Pair this tions. —M.L. —M.L. with barbecued shrimp or tempura vegetable appetiz- abv: 11% Price: $23 ers. Jack Poust & Co., Inc. —M.L. abv: 12.5% Price: $NA abv: 11% Price: $11 CAMPANIA Le Marchesine NV Opera Brut (Lombar- Botter NV Prosecco. Cheerful, fragrant and 88 dy). Fresh and light, this metodo classico spar- 85 bright, this opens with aromas of lemon blos- Feudi di San Gregorio 2009 DUBL Brut kler offers clean aromas of citrus and stone fruit, fol- Greco (Campania). For full review see page som, white almond and stone fruit. It shows tonic, firm 91 lowed by pear and white almond. The perlage is persis- bubbling. Total Wine & More. —M.L. 9. tent and tonic. Lyra Wine. —M.L. abv: 11% Price: $14 abv: 12.5% Price: $43 abv: 12% Price: $40 Canevel NV La Vi Extra Dry (Prosecco). Feudi di San Gregorio 2009 DUBL Brut Tasca d’Almerita 2007 Almerita Brut 85 Fresh, clean and easy, this would taste great at Falanghina (Campania). The only estate- 90 Rosé (Contea di Sclafani). This historic Si- an outdoor pool party or during a sunny lunch outdoors. produced sparkling wine in its region, this metodo clas- 88 It delivers fresh crispness, with lingering tones of green sico sparkler shows a bright, golden hue, with aromas of cilian producer offers two sparkling wines, of which this apple and passion fruit. Selected Estates of Europe Ltd. vanilla, toasted almond, caramel and exotic fruit. Palm superfriendly and enjoyable rosé is the more affordable —M.L. Bay International. —M.L. bottling. It opens with toasty, creamy aromas of wild abv: 11% Price: $15 abv: 12.5% Price: $39 berry and stone fruit. The finish is foamy, rich and fresh. Winebow. Editors’ Choice. —M.L. Conselve NV Tramontana Brut (Prosec- Feudi di San Gregorio 2009 DUBL Brut abv: 13% Price: $56 co). 85 This opens with tonic aromas of citrus and Rosé (Campania). For full review see page crushed stone, with light touches of peach and pear at 90 10. Borgo Maragliano NV Brut (Piedmont). the back. The wine is bright and clean, with a sharp, abv: 13.5% Price: $43 Fresh and easy, with bright acidity and steady firm quality of effervescence. Luxe . —M.L. 87 effervescence, this Chardonnay-based sparkler would abv: 11% Price: $17 Cantine di Marzo NV Anni Venti Extra pair well with fried finger foods or appetizers. The wine Brut (Campania). This 365-year-old estate Banero NV Banero (Prosecco). There is 87 is easygoing and refreshing. USA Wine West. —M.L. proves the potential of metodo classico in southern It- only a handful of Kosher sparkling Proseccos abv: 13% Price: $16 84 aly, where sparkling wine production is a relatively new out there, and this is one of them. Lively and bright, the phenomenon. Made from Greco, this shows aromas of wine shows citrus, stone fruit and dried hay aromas. L. Domenico Cavazza NV Toari Brut (Vene- pear, peach and Golden Delicious apple. Vintners Es- Watson, Inc. Best Buy. —M.L. to). A blend of Chardonnay, Riesling and Gar- tate Direct Importing. —M.L. 87 abv: 11% Price: $8 ganega, this presents a distinctive and interesting aro- abv: 13% Price: $31 matic profile. Notes of flower and herb combine with CENTRAL ITALY touches of citrus, stone fruit and dried hay. Casa Torelli. OTHER SPARKLING —M.L. Donelli NV Scaglietti (Lambrusco di Sor- abv: 12% Price: $20 86 bara). Founded in 1915, Donelli produces WINES some of central Italy’s finest Lambrusco bottlings. This Tasca d’Almerita 2007 Almerita Extra Orion Wine NV Rosa Bianca Brut (Vene- dry, red sparkler has enough acidity and fizzy efferves- 90 Brut (Contea di Sclafani). Tasca d’Almerita to). For full review see page 12. cence to cut through local cuisine, such as tortellini with 87 produces one of southern Italy’s finestmetodo classico abv: 12% Price: $13 cheese or butter. The bouquet shows red berry, straw- sparklers. Made from Chardonnay ripened under the berry and blackberry. Made with 90% Lambrusco di Sicilian sun, this is creamy, rich and long, redolent of Principe Corsini - Fattoria Le Corti NV Sorbara grapes. Opici Wines. —M.L. apricot, toasted almond and honey. Winebow. —M.L. Rosé (Tuscany). A unique rosé sparkler abv: 11% Price: $20 86 abv: 13.5% Price: $56 made with , this offers aromas of wild berry, Bonfiglio 2010 Alba in Vigna Pignoletto white cherry and herb, with a subdued, creamy quality Beni di Batasiolo 2007 Metodo Classico (Colli Bolognesi). Executed in a frizzante to the perlage. —M.L. 85 Millésimé (Piedmont). Delicate and femi- style (with less intense bubbling), this easy sparkler of- 89 abv: 11.5% Price: $NA fers delicate aromas of stone fruit, citrus and bitter al- nine, this sparkler is based on Chardonnay and Pinot Nero, with aromas of white flower, peach, melon and mond. Pair this with finger foods. Franco Wine Imports. Bonotto delle Tezze NV Raboso Rosa- —M.L. stone fruit. It’s firm and fresh on the close, with soft, fine to Frizzante (Piave). Made using Raboso perlage. Boisset Family Estates. —M.L. 84 abv: 12% Price: $18 grapes native to northern Italy, this brightly pink spar- abv: 13% Price: $40 kler shows sweet aromas of raspberry and strawberry, Donelli NV Scaglietti (Lambrusco Reg- 85 giano). This is a dry, fizzy red wine that’s made Le Marchesine NV Opera Brut Rosé followed by sweet fruit flavors. Like any goodfrizzante , from a blend of indigenous Lambrusco grapes, includ- 89 (Lombardy). A blend of Chardonnay and Pi- the effervescence is soft, creamy and not too intense. ing 55% Lambrusco Marani. Thanks to its bright acid- not Nero, this offers touches of red rose and raspberry, Venezia Imports. —M.L. ity and lively fruit flavors, this pairs perfectly with fatty backed by citrus, peach and pear notes. Made in the abv: 11% Price: $11

20 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | DECEMBER 2012 ITALY Scubla 2008 Cràtis Verduzzo (Colli Ori- ry and blackberry, this is tonic and bright, with loads of 92 entali del Friuli). Verduzzo is a very interest- intensity and sweetly smoked flavors on the finish. Fred- DESSERT WINES ing grape that tends to exude oxidized aromas of can- erick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —M.L. died fruit, butterscotch and carmel. But when made abv: 14% Price: $45/500 ml ALTO ADIGE well, as in the case of this selection, it offers power, concentration and natural richness as well. Vinifera Im- Le Salette 2009 Pergole Vece (Recio- Andriano 2009 Juvelo Gewürztraminer ports. —M.L. 90 to della Valpolicella Classico). This has 94 (Alto Adige). Lovely, lively and superintense, abv: 13% Price: $18/375 ml a dark ruby color, a dense consistency and pretty aro- this is richly fragrant and opulent on all levels. This pre- mas of chocolate fudge, spice, cinnamon and crushed cious expression offers loads of honeysuckle, jasmine, Meroi 2000 Picolit (Colli Orientali del Fri- clove. The mouthfeel is smooth and long. Vias Imports. citrus blossom and apricot. Banville & Jones Wine Mer- 91 uli). This golden dessert wine is made from air- —M.L. chants. —M.L. dried fruit and then aged in oak. The results are luscious abv: 14% Price: $90/500 ml abv: 10.5% Price: $50/375 ml and intense, with loads of candied fruit, preserved lem- on and toasted almond. Soilair Selection. —M.L. Le Salette 2008 Pergole Vece (Recioto Kellerei Kaltern Caldaro 2008 Cas- abv: 13.5% Price: $85/500 ml 90 della Valpolicella Classico). Cherry liqueur, 93 tel Giovanelli Serenade Passito (Alto dark chocolate, espresso and blackberry preserves Adige). Air-dried Moscato Giallo grapes are pushed Le Vigne di Zamò 2007 Vola Vola (Col- open the nose of this hearty selection. The finish is to the extremes in terms of their intensity and staying 89 li Orientali del Friuli). A beautiful blend of sweet and soft, with loads of chocolate fudge. Vias Im- power. This opulent selection offers thick layers of can- Picolit, Sauvignon and Verduzzo, this is a well-balanced ports. —M.L. died fruit, apricot, honey, caramel and marzipan. The selection that shows structure, persistence and long, lin- abv: 14% Price: $100/500 ml flavors are delicious and long-lasting. Omniwines Dis- gering fruity aromas. The finish is smooth, sweet and tribution. —M.L. rich. Omniwines Distribution. —M.L. Monte dall’Ora 2007 Sant’Ulderico (Re- abv: 11.5% Price: $NA/375 ml abv: 12.5% Price: $28/500 ml 90 cioto della Valpolicella Classico). Recio- to Sant’Ulderico boasts a very interesting texture and Girlan 2009 Pasithea Oro Gewürztra- Marco Cecchini 2007 Verlit Verduzzo structure. It’s firm and smooth, with fine tannins and 92 miner (Alto Adige). These Gewürztra- 88 (Colli Orientali del Friuli). This opens with long persistence. The finish is marked by flavors of bar- miner grapes are left to sweeten on the vine until a bright golden color and immediate aromas of butter- becue sauce, sweet blackberry and cinnamon. Louis mid-December, resulting in a decadently rich and fra- scotch, candied fruit and smooth almond paste. The Dressner Selections. —M.L. grant dessert wine from Italy’s mountainous north. It re- wine is naturally robust and structured. T. Edward abv: 14% Price: $75/500 ml veals divine tones of apricot, honey, spring flower and Wines Ltd. —M.L. jasmine. Montcalm Wine Importers. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $27/500 ml Monte del Frá 2006 Tenuta Lena di Mezzo abv: 11.5% Price: $50/500 ml 90 (Recioto della Valpolicella Classico). This Ronchi di Cialla 2008 Cialla Picolit (Colli Recioto is not too sweet, which is its strongest trait: The Girlan 2009 Pasithea Rosa Moscato (Alto 88 Orientali del Friuli). Picolit is a rare and pre- absence of cloying, jammy fruit gives this an elegant and 89 Adige). A passito-style dessert wine, this is cious dessert wine that shows aromas of candied fruit, sophisticated personality. The finish is characterized by made from Moscato Rosa. It’s fragrant and full of aro- pressed flower and honey. This expression has a touch bright cherry and spice. Votto Vines Importing. —M.L. mas of wild flower, berry, almond and honey. Montcalm of bitter almond on the finish. Soilair Selection. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $43/500 ml Wine Importers. —M.L. abv: 15% Price: $75/375 ml abv: 12.5% Price: $38/500 ml Roccolo Grassi 2008 Recioto della Val- 90 policella. Bold and savory aromas of smoked Abbazia di Novacella 2009 Praepositus RECIOTO DELLA jerky, teriyaki, blackberry and exotic spice. Those savory 88 Kerner Passito (Alto Adige). Aged only in VALPOLICELLA tones become sweet in the mouth: Pair this with plum stainless steel, this brilliantly maintains its fresh fruit or chocolate pudding. Artisan Wines, Inc. —M.L. characteristics. Tree-ripened peach and Golden Deli- Corteforte 2005 Amandorlato (Recioto abv: 14.5% Price: $45/375 ml cious apple notes give this wine natural sweetness that 91 della Valpolicella Classico). This has pret- isn’t overboard or too heavy. Vintage Epicure. —M.L. ty smoked tones of barbecue spice and cured meat, Stefano Accordini 2009 Acinatico (Re- abv: 11.5% Price: $44/375 ml backed by cassis. It’s dense and rich, and its tannins are 90 cioto della Valpolicella Classico). Dark smooth. The Wine Company. —M.L. chocolate, Christmas spice, prune and plum open the Kellerei Kaltern Caldaro 2011 Moscato abv: 13.5% Price: $55/500 ml bouquet. The mouthfeel is structured but smooth, 88 Giallo (Alto Adige). A cheerful and easy des- with fresh accents of acidity. Omniwines Distribution. sert wine, this would pair perfectly with apple pie or Domìni Veneti 2009 Recioto della Valpo- —M.L. cinnamon-dusted strudel. It features bright fruit aromas 90 licella Classico. Recioto always tends to have abv: 13.5% Price: $25/375 ml of apricot, pear and passion fruit. Omniwines Distribu- loads of dark fruit intensity, but this one is particularly tion. —M.L. intense, with spicy oak tones of toasted nut and cinna- Stefano Accordini 2008 Acinatico (Re- abv: 12.5% Price: $19 mon. It offers a sweet but tannic close, with notes of to- 90 cioto della Valpolicella Classico). Aged in bacco and Darjeeling tea leaf. Wine Twist. —M.L. a combination of oak and stainless steel, this brooding, abv: 12.5% Price: $36 dark selection delivers strawberry, red apple, dark choc- FRIULI olate and crème de cassis aromas. It’s thick and sweet, Domìni Veneti 2008 Vigneti di Moron (Re- Lis Neris 2008 Tal Lùc (Friuli). This is made but it shows nicely balanced acidity. Vinity Wine Com- cioto della Valpolicella Classico). This from Verduzzo grapes and a tiny percentage of 90 pany. —M.L. 95 would pair beautifully with chocolate-covered strawber- Riesling; the former variety gives the wine depth, sub- abv: 13% Price: $28/500 ml ries or black cherries. Spicy oak tones fill in the back- stance, bright yellow-gold color and pretty aromas of ground with espresso bean and toasted almond accents. Tedeschi 2006 Capitel Fontana (Recioto butterscotch and caramel. The Riesling adds a touch of Wine Twist. —M.L. della Valpolicella Classico). Tedeschi’s en- floral fragrance. MHW, Ltd. Cellar Selection. —M.L. 90 abv: 14% Price: $30/500 ml abv: 10% Price: $88/375 ml tire portfolio of red wines is characterized by tight tan- nic structure, which Capitel Fontana has in spades. The Le Ragose 2007 Recioto della Valpolicel- 90 la Classico. Bursting with aromas of red cher-

WineMag.com | 21 finish offers notes of dark cherry and blackberry. Drey- es or chocolate-based . Omniwines Distribu- Villa Spinosa 2008 Francesca Finato Spi- fus, Ashby & Co. —M.L. tion. —M.L. 88 nosa (Recioto della Valpolicella Clas- abv: 14.5% Price: $70/500 ml abv: 13.5% Price: $20/500 ml sico). This expression shows hints of chocolate and cinnamon, wrapped around a core of plum, prune and Begali 2009 Recioto della Valpolicella Giuseppe Lonardi 2009 Le Arele (Recio- blackberry flavors. Tradizione Imports. —M.L. 89 Classico. Meaty and thick, this has aromas 88 to della Valpolicella Classico). Thanks to abv: 15.5% Price: $50/500 ml of cured meat, blackberry preserves, teriyaki and worn long oak aging, this is extra spicy and zesty on the finish. leather. Siema LLC. —M.L. Its thick, supple mouthful would pair well with choco- Cantina Sociale della Valpantena 2008 abv: 13.5% Price: $25/500 ml late- or almond-based desserts. Small Vineyards LLC. 87 Tesauro (Recioto della Valpolicella). A —M.L. blend of 70% Corvina and 30% Rondinella, this is a Brigaldara 2006 Recioto della Valpolicel- abv: 14% Price: $40/500 ml cool and bright offering, with aromas of apple skin, for- 89 la Classico. Balance and richness character- est berry, maraschino cherry and dark blackberry. The ize this dessert wine. Pair it with chocolate mousse or La Giaretta 2005 Recioto della Valpolicel- finish is spicy, sweet and polished. Omniwines Distribu- crème brûlée. Its bright fruit aromas and mild tannins 88 la Classico. Rich and penetrating, this shows tion. —M.L. will cut the sweetness of such desserts. Vinifera Im- tertiary aromas of crushed stone, cured leather and abv: 13.5% Price: $20/500 ml ports. —M.L. black truffle. The mouthfeel is polished and smooth. abv: 15% Price: $40/375 ml The Vintner Group. —M.L. Cantine Benedetti 2008 Corte Antica (Re- abv: 14% Price: $NA/500 ml 87 cioto della Valpolicella Classico). A touch Gamba 2006 Le Quare (Recioto della Val- of apple skin immediately appears on the bouquet of 89 policella Classico). Here is a very pleasant, Le Bertarole 2007 Podere le Giarette (Re- this wine, giving this hearty selection a bright, sharp ruby-red dessert wine that offers smoky tones of ripe 88 cioto della Valpolicella Classico). Aromas quality. The apple tone is followed by notes of dark blackberry, barbecue spice, cured meat and leather. of cherry cola, exotic spice, dark forest berry and black chocolate and espresso bean. Golden Horseshoe Inc. The wine’s richness and smooth density are impressive. currant open the bouquet of this lively Recioto dessert —M.L. Giacopuzzi Agency. —M.L. wine. This expression is not as hearty and thick as oth- abv: 13% Price: $NA/500 ml abv: 14% Price: $33/500 ml ers, and its slender brightness is its greatest strength. Vinarium Inc. —M.L. Viviani 2007 Recioto della Valpolicella Novaia 2009 Vigneto Le Novaje (Recioto abv: 13% Price: $15/500 ml 87 Classico. There’s a slight touch of red ap- 89 della Valpolicella Classico). Recioto tends ple skin at the start of the bouquet, followed by bright to pair best with rum or chocolate- or cinnamon- Santa Sofia 2007 Recioto della Valpoli- cherry and raspberry aromas. This would pair well with based desserts. This offers dark hues of fudge, clove and 88 cella Classico. This presents sweet notes of chocolate brownies or moist carrot cake. Bonhomie rose petal. North Berkeley Imports. —M.L. berry fruit, cinnamon and crushed clove that are backed Wine Imports. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $25/375 ml by firm structure and polished tannins. The finish is abv: 13% Price: $NA/500 ml generous, with a cool cherry flavor. Laird & Company. Secondo Marco 2009 Recioto della Val- —M.L. 89 policella Classico. Pretty highlights of cinna- abv: 14% Price: $54/500 ml VENETO mon, clove, cassis and dried raspberry give this a friend- Dal Forno Romano 2004 Vigna Serè ly, approachable appeal. It shows a rich, velvety texture 2008 La Roggia (Recioto della Val- (Veneto). Labeled as “air-dried sweet red on the finish. Good Earth Wines —M.L. policella Classico). This opens with bright 94 88 wine” instead of its traditional name “Recioto,” this is abv: 14% Price: $NA/500 ml fruit intensity, bearing flavors of red apple skin, choco- indeed a powerful and generous wine. It boasts huge late, dark cherry and coffee bean. It shows plush and density and superintense aromas of blackberry, oak Tommasi 2009 Vigneto Fiorato (Recioto rich concentration, with a firm, fresh finish. Empson spice and tobacco. Keep it for your cellar. Vias Imports. della Valpolicella Classico). This vineyard- (USA) Ltd. —M.L. 89 Cellar Selection. —M.L. designate wine opens with pretty floral tones of pressed abv: 13.5% Price: $NA/500 ml red rose and violet, backed by dusty mineral, wild berry, abv: 14% Price: $200/375 ml candied fruit and prune. The mouthfeel is sweet, thick Stefano Accordini 2010 Recioto della Maculan 2011 Dindarello Moscato (Vene- and long. Vintus LLC. —M.L. Valpolicella Classico. Dark, plump and su- 88 to). This shows excellent balance of sweet fruit abv: 13% Price: $30/375 ml perripe, this has tones of warm earth, chocolate and 89 and honey flavors. Bright acidity sparkles on the fin- maraschino cherry. The finish is bright and simple, yet ish, adding crispness that makes this wine perfect for Allegrini 2008 Recioto della Valpolicel- sweet, with loads of rich density. Kysela Père et Fils. cream-based desserts. Winebow. —M.L. la Classico. Thanks to its tannins and natu- —M.L. 88 abv: 11.5% Price: $22/375 ml ral richness, this would pair well with chocolate or abv: 15% Price: $22/500 ml dark fruit. It shows a savory, spicy side, with aromas of Maculan 2010 Madoro (Veneto). Made dark earth, button mushroom, prune and blackberry. Tommasi 2008 Vigneto Fiorato (Recioto with Marzemino and Cabernet Sauvignon, this Winebow. —M.L. della Valpolicella Classico). This offers 89 88 presents luscious darkness, followed by tones of choco- abv: 14% Price: $NA/500 ml subtle fruit characteristics, with scents of violet and rose late, spice, prune and dark plum, with a touch of bitter- in the background. A bright cherry flavor appears on the ness on the close. It’s so rich and decadent that it can Buglioni 2007 Il Recioto (Recioto della palate, where the wine delivers a syrupy, soft sweetness. be paired with sweet and savory foods alike. Winebow. Valpolicella Classico). This opens with a Vintus LLC. —M.L. 88 —M.L. spicy nose that recalls barbecue smoke, cola and cured abv: 13% Price: $NA/375 ml meat. There are notes of sweet cherry and blackberry abv: 13.5% Price: $30/375 ml on the finish, giving this its sweet, fruity appeal. Martin Trabucchi d’Illasi 2006 Terre del Cereo- Astoria NV Lounge Moscato (Veneto). Scott Wines. —M.L. lo (Recioto della Valpolicella). This opens 88 This sweet, Moscato-based offering would pair abv: 14% Price: $NA with a thick, inky texture, and clean flavors of dark 84 well with fruit-based dessert, panna cotta, or crème prune, cassis and blackberry preserves. The finish is caramel. It offers loads of floral intensity, a lightly fizzy Cantina Sociale della Valpantena 2010 rich, long and supple. Selected Estates of Europe Ltd. mouthfeel and low alcohol. Prestige Wine Group. Tesauro (Recioto della Valpolicella). Zesty —M.L. 88 —M.L. spice, clove and cinnamon notes open the bouquet. The abv: 14% Price: $70/500 ml thick mouthfeel demands to be paired with aged chees- abv: 7% Price: $13

22 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | DECEMBER 2012 Astoria NV Salvatore Principe Rosé Marco Negri 2011 Marsillo (Moscato Tosti NV Moscato Rosato (Piedmont). 84 Moscato (Veneto). This lightly sparkling rosé 87 d’Asti). Foamy mousse and soft, fizzy perlage 83 Bright pink and cheerful, this boasts aromas of opens with fragrant aromas of rose petal, candied cher- characterize this delicate offering. It could pair with raspberry, wild berry and cherry candy. Soft, creamy ry, honey and wild berry. As the label says, it scores an 8 fruit salad or cream-based desserts, thanks to its deli- bubbles enhance the wine’s natural sweetness. Prestige on a sweetness scale of 1–10, with 10 being the highest. cate citrus and peach flavors. Total Beverage Solution. Wine Group. —M.L. Prestige Wine Group. —M.L. —M.L. abv: 6.5% Price: $12 abv: 7% Price: $12 abv: 5.5% Price: $17

Mauro Sebaste 2011 Moscato d’Asti. VIN SANTO DEL CHIANTI OTHER NORTHEAST 87 Honey, white flower, peach and lemon blossom Castello d’Albola 2003 Vin Santo del Chi- ITALY are some of the pretty aromas on offer. Light and deli- 92 anti Classico. Thanks to eight years in Vin cate, it also feels creamy, rich and sweet on the finish. Santo’s traditional caratelli barrels, this sweet blend of Suavia 2007 Acinatium (Recioto di Saranty Imports. —M.L. and Malvasia offers a dark, golden-amber Soave). This is made from and is abv: 5% Price: $20 93 color, bearing intense aromas of dried apricot, candied bright gold in color, with intense aromas of apricot, hon- fruit, honey and toasted almond. Zonin USA. —M.L. ey and jasmine. The mouthfeel is smooth, silky and the Marchesi di Barolo 2011 Zagara (Mosca- abv: 15.5% Price: $50/500 ml finish is very long. Vias Imports. —M.L. 86 to d’Asti). Deliciously light and creamy, this abv: 13.5% Price: $55/375 ml has a bright flower aroma, followed by touches of honey Querciavalle 1999 Vin Santo del Chianti and stone fruit. Pair it with , fresh fruits or baked Classico. Querciavalle produces a fine vin san- La Montecchia 2009 Donna Daria Mosca- 92 apricots. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —M.L. to that shows the passion and dedication required for a to (Colli Euganei). The Colli Euganei is an abv: 5% Price: $19 88 wine that’s difficult to produce. It has been aged in small up-and-coming wine region located in a volcanic chain oak barrels, offering aromas of honey, candied fruit, res- of hills outside the city of Padua. This expression of Ricossa 2011 Antica Casa (Moscato in and toasted almond. Tricana Imports. —M.L. Moscato is sweet and enduring, with aromas of yellow d’Asti). This is a textbook example of Moscato. 86 abv: 16% Price: $47/500 ml rose and jasmine. Villa Italia. —M.L. The bouquet offers bright aromas of white flower, hon- abv: 12% Price: $50/500 ml ey and fresh peach. Touchstone Wines. —M.L. Castelli del Grevepesa 1998 Clemente abv: 5.5% Price: $15 VII (Vin Santo del Chianti Classico). Rich Anna Spinato 2006 Rubioso Raboso 91 and opulent, with tones of candied fruit, dried apricot, (Marca Trevigiana). Late- Raboso Luccío NV Moscato d’Asti. Creamy, soft and 87 chestnut paste and toasted almond, this should be sa- grapes produce a dark, ruby-colored sweet wine, with very floral, this would pair with fruit-based des- 85 vored alone after a long and satisfying meal. No need to powerful concentration and a thick texture. The fruit serts or sponge cake. Thick and foamy layers of sweet- pair it with dessert: It’s a dessert in its own right. Dug- characteristics recall prune and black currant. Mega- ness and soapy perlage move slowly over the palate. gan’s Distillers. —M.L. wine Inc. —M.L. Prestige Wine Group. Best Buy. —M.L. abv: 16.5% Price: $30/500 ml abv: 14% Price: $24/500 ml abv: 5.5% Price: $10 I Sodi 2005 Riserva (Vin Santo del Chian- Kellerei Kaltern Caldaro 2011 Moscato Paluzzi 2011 Moscato d’Asti. Soft and ti Classico). For full review see page 9. Rosa (Delle Venezie). Light pink in color, creamy, this bursts open with bright flower and 91 87 85 abv: 14.5% Price: $50/500 ml with sweet overtones of honey and candied peach, this sweet fruit intensity. It has aromas of stone fruit, jas- would pair with poppyseed cake or apple tart. The finish mine, honeysuckle and passion fruit. All that delicate Il Borro 2007 Vin Santo del Chianti. Beau- is thick and opulent. Omniwines Distribution. —M.L. sweetness is followed by thick, foamy perlage. Prestige tiful and elegant, this has golden highlights, of- abv: 10.5% Price: $19 91 Wine Group. —M.L. fering intense aromas of honey, toasted almond, pine abv: NA Price: $13 nut and candied fruit. The finish is sweet and long, with Gaierhof 2011 Moscato Giallo (Trentino). a touch of crispness. USA Wine West. —M.L. In its unmistakable squat bottle, this Moscato- Tosti NV Moscato (Asti). Delightfully fresh 85 abv: 15% Price: $38/500 ml based dessert wine offers pretty floral tones and flavors 85 and sweet, this playful sparkler would pair with of peach and citrus. Its easy mouthfeel make it a natu- almost anything from the dessert table. The creamy Pietro Beconcini 2001 Caratello (Vin ral pairing with almond cookies. Nicola Biscardo Selec- finish is redolent of peach and honey. Prestige Wine Santo del Chianti). This beautiful expression tions. —M.L. 91 Group. —M.L. shows elegant aromas of candied apricot, honey, pre- abv: 9.5% Price: $20 abv: 7.5% Price: $12 served lemon and white rose. Williams Corner Wine. —M.L. Morando NV Stella Mia (Moscato d’Asti). abv: 16.5% Price: $50/500 ml MOSCATO D’ASTI 84 Fresh and easygoing, with accents of honey and Adriano Marco & Vittorio 2011 Moscato stone fruit and a touch of butterscotch, this would pair Fattoria Lavacchio 2007 Riserva (Vin 87 d’Asti. This expression beautifully showcases with almond biscotti or cantucci. The mouthfeel is rich 90 Santo del Chianti Rufina).This shows crisp Moscato d’Asti’s typical sweet, musky aroma, along with and very foamy. Prestige Wine Group. —M.L. acidity on the close, with opulent layers of candied fruit, abv: NA Price: $11 notes of peach, citrus, white flower and honey. Novo honey and crème brûlée. The mouthfeel is rich, smooth Imports. —M.L. and long-lasting. Best Value Wine Group. —M.L. abv: 5% Price: $17 OTHER PIEDMONT abv: 15% Price: $40/500 ml Beni di Batasiolo 2011 Bosc Dla Rei Ricossa 2010 Antica Casa (Casorzo). Lanciola 2005 Vin Santo del Chianti. From 87 (Moscato d’Asti). This is a popular and reli- 84 This rosé dessert wine has a creamy fizz, with 90 the Colli Fiorentini zone of Chianti, this beauti- able wine to pair with desserts or to drink alone. It of- flavors of sweet raspberry and wild berry. Simple and ful vin santo spent five years maturing in small oak bar- fers foamy mousse with peach and honey on the finish. sweet, it is dark raspberry in color. Touchstone Wines. rels. It shows flavors of candied fruit, honey, resin, pine Boisset Family Estates. —M.L. —M.L. nut and toasted almond. Bacchanal Wines. —M.L. abv: 5% Price: $NA abv: 5.5% Price: $16 abv: 16% Price: $62/500 ml

WineMag.com | 23 is velvety smooth, and the finish is long. Casa Torelli. complexity on the palate that make this a perfect part- TOSCANA —M.L. ner to aged sharp cheeses. Bacchanal Wines. —M.L. Castello di Bossi 2003 Vin San Lauren- abv: 16% Price: $40/500 ml abv: 12.5% Price: $26/500 ml 93 tino (Toscana). Gorgeous and elegant, this demonstrates Tuscany’s sweetest side. Trebbiano, San- giovese and Malvasia undergo long aging to obtain im- MONTEFALCO SOUTHERN ITALY pressive thickness and intensity of flavor. The lengthy Arnaldo Caprai 2007 Passito (Montefalco Di Majo Norante 2010 Apianae Moscato finish is driven by notes of candied fruit, honey and 91 Sagrantino). Thanks to careful vineyard care 93 (Molise). Oozing richness and opulence, the brown sugar. Winebow. —M.L. and long oak aging, vintner Marco Caprai adds a soft, bouquet delivers a steady stream of honey, flower and abv: 11% Price: $95/375 ml opulent dimension to his air-dried Sagrantino dessert apricot aromas. On the palate, this is silky and creamy, wine. Colored and flavored by notes of bright spice and save for a tingling touch of acidity that keeps the palate Renieri 2002 Principe di Renieri (Tos- dark chocolate, it features a firm finish. Folio Fine Wine refreshed. Winebow. —M.L. 92 cana). This boasts a dark amber color, with Partners. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $NA/500 ml thick extraction and superintense aromas of candied abv: 15% Price: $50/375 ml fruit, honey, brown sugar and maple syrup. The mouth- Feudi di San Gregorio 2010 Privilegio (Ir- feel is divinely rich and supple. Michelangelo Imports. Arnaldo Caprai 2006 Passito (Sagrantino 92 pinia). For full review see page 7. —M.L. 90 di Montefalco). After 18 months of oak aging, abv: 12% Price: $60/500 ml abv: 11% Price: $70/375 ml this shows lovely softness, yielding aromas of dark choc- olate and exotic spice. The grape’s signature tannins add Pirro Varone 2009 Tocy Bianco Fia- Sada 2008 Vendemmia Tardiva Vermen- firmness and focus to the finish. Folio Fine Wine Part- 90 no (Puglia). Made from late-harvest Fiano 92 tino (Toscana). Late-harvest Vermentino ners. —M.L. grapes, this is one of the nicest dessert wines produced makes for an interesting dessert wine that both sweet abv: 15.5% Price: $55/375 ml in the deep south of Italy. It shows bright aromas of can- and fresh. Aromas include citrus, apricot, almond, dried died fruit, apricot and honey, set over a sweet, gener- herb and flower. There’s a great deal of density and in- Lungarotti 2008 Passito (Montefalco Sa- ously rich mouthfeel. Domenico Valentino. —M.L. tensity packed in this precious bottle. ID Beverage 90 grantino). This shows a compact and firm abv: 15% Price: $27/500 ml Group. —M.L. style, with masculine tones of red fruit, chocolate, exotic abv: 10.5% Price: $68/375 ml spice and shaved cinnamon stick. It’s dark and opulent. Pirro Varone 2009 Tocy (Primitivo di Man- Vin Divino. —M.L. 88 duria). This would pair with a cigar or dark Piazzano 2004 Vinsanto (Toscana). This abv: 14.5% Price: $77/375 ml chocolate cake. It’s a smooth, rich wine, with firm tan- 90 golden amber-colored offering could pair with nins and lasting tones of ripe blackberry and raspberry. dried-fruit-based desserts or almond biscuits. A delicate Còlpetrone 2006 Passito (Montefalco Sa- Domenico Valentino. —M.L. wine, it is redolent of brown sugar, candied fruit, honey, 88 grantino). Like all good passito dessert wines abv: 15.5% Price: $27/500 ml dried flower and apricot. Vintner Select. —M.L. made from the Sagrantino grape, this shows firmness abv: NA Price: $37/375 ml and structure, with aromatic characteristics of bitter Produttori Vini Manduria 2007 Madrigale chocolate and cherry liqueur. Vias Imports. —M.L. 88 (Primitivo di Manduria). This naturally sweet Fattoria Lavacchio 2010 Oro del Cedro abv: 14% Price: $65/375 ml red opens with a neutral nose that recalls a dry Prim- 89 (Toscana). Made from organically farmed itivo wine. Dark fruit, cherry and black pepper notes fruit, this late-harvest Traminer is luscious, boasting are present, with a tangy sweetness on the palate. Pair aromas of white rose, preserved lemon, apricot and OTHER CENTRAL ITALY this with chocolate brownies or chocolate chip cookies. blanched almon, which set the stage for the smooth, Barberani 2008 Calcaia (Orvieto Classi- D’Aquino Italian Importing Co. Inc. —M.L. silky mouthfeel. Best Value Wine Group. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $16 abv: 14.5% Price: $40/500 ml 94 co Superiore). One of the best dessert wines from central Italy, this is marked by muffa nobile, or “.” It’s opulent and dense, with golden apri- SICILY OTHER TUSCANY cot, honey and a delicate veil of muskiness. Vinifera Im- ports. Editors’ Choice. —M.L. Donnafugata 2010 Ben Ryé (Passito di Castello Banfi 2010 Florus (Moscadello abv: NA Price: $35/500 ml 95 Pantelleria). Ben Ryé is one of the 10 best 92 di Montalcino). This is an epic wine, fit to dessert wines made in Italy. From the sun-drenched is- present the little-known Moscadello di Montalcino des- Tre Monti 2009 Casa Lola (Albana di Ro- land of Pantelleria, this is made using Zibibbo grapes sert wine to foreign markets. Its ambassadorial qualities 92 magna). Packed with intensity and elegance, that are air-dried. It’s thickly extracted and syrupy include a lively, golden color and sweet tones of honey, this opens with fragrant tones of candied fruit, honey, sweet, with intense aromas of apricot, honey and mar- rose and marzipan. Banfi Vintners.Editors’ Choice. dried flower and apricot. Its distinct aromatics recalls zipan. The kick of fresh acidity at the end is nothing —M.L. the botrytis that shapes the best wines of Albana di Ro- short of brilliant. Folio Fine Wine Partners. Editors’ abv: 14% Price: $20/500 ml magna. Zancanella Importing Co. —M.L. Choice. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $21/500 ml abv: 14.5% Price: $40/375 ml Col d’Orcia 2008 Pascena (Moscadello di 91 Montalcino). Made from late-harvest Mosc- Sorrentino 2007 Fior di Ginestre Passito Tasca d’Almerita 2010 Capofaro Malva- adello grapes, this offers delicate sweetness, with pretty 90 (Pompeiano). Made from air-dried Falanghi- 93 sia (Salina). This is made using fruit from one touches of candied fruit, almond paste, peach cobbler na and Coda di Volpe, this pretty dessert wine opens of the most beautiful spots on Earth, so it’s no wonder and white flower. Palm Bay International. —M.L. with a dark, golden color and bright aromas of apricot, this dessert wine is so delicious. Sweet peach, honey abv: 12% Price: $50/375 ml honey and candied pineapple. Supreme Wines & Spir- and candied almond notes open the fragrant bouquet. its. —M.L. Winebow. —M.L. Fattoria San Michele a Torri 2007 Vinsan- abv: 15% Price: $20/500 ml abv: 13% Price: $40/500 ml 88 to (Colli Etruria Centrale). This shows aro- mas of candied fruit and honey, with zesty touches of Tre Monti 2008 Passito (Albana di Ro- Cusumano 2008 Moscato dello Zucco dried herb, citrus and spice at the back. The mouthful 90 magna). This shows a pretty golden color with 92 (Sicilia). Strong sunshine and fertile soils give amber highlights, bearing aromas of candied fruit, hon- this wine an extra boost in intensity and overall mouth- ey, dried yellow rose and jasmine. It has deep layers of

24 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | DECEMBER 2012 feel. Golden honey, candied fruit and sweet almond brioche, citrus and a hint of steeliness. The majestic Champagne producers who taste each other’s wines be- paste flavors drive the experience. Vin Divino. —M.L. richness of the wine has fully justified its decades of ag- fore allowing them to be released under this label. With abv: 13% Price: $31/500 ml ing. Moët Hennessy USA. —R.V. its pure expression of mineral-driven, tense Chardon- abv: 12% Price: $NA nay, this is made in a dry style. It’s fragrant, fruity and Feudo Arancio Stemmari 2009 Hekate ready to age for several years. Michael Skurnik Wines. 92 Passito (Sicilia). For full review see page 7. Pol Roger 2002 Extra Cuvée de Réserve Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: 12% Price: $31/500 ml 96 Vintage Brut (Champagne). For full review abv: 12.5% Price: $85 see page 3. Cellar Selection. Feudi del Pisciotto 2010 Gianfranco Fer- abv: 12.5% Price: $110 Piper-Heidsieck 2002 Brut Cuvée Rare 90 ré (Sicilia). Equal parts Gewürztraminer and 94 Millesimée (Champagne). This is top Sémillon form the base of this opulent selection. Bright Veuve Clicquot Ponsardin 1989 Cave Champagne from Piper-Heidsieck, offering the de- tones of candied fruit and marzipan set the tone and 96 Privée Brut Rosé (Champagne). This very licious airy quality that’s the hallmark of this house, segue onto the palate that is long, rich and sweet. Vias pale rosé has the richness of toast and croissant that with crisp apple flavor, tangy acidity and the first signs Imports. —M.L. comes from complete maturity. It also features fresh of yeasty, toasty bottle age. Its fruit intensity has trans- abv: 16% Price: $30/500 ml hints of the red and white fruits that were present dur- formed into a splendid selection. It’s worth aging for a ing the wine’s younger years. This is ready to drink now. few more years, though also delicious now. Remy Coin- Spadafora NV Amnesia (Sicilia). This is Moët Hennessy USA. —R.V. treau USA. Cellar Selection. —R.V. made using an equal blend of sun-dried Catar- 89 abv: 12% Price: $NA abv: 12% Price: $175 ratto and Grillo grapes. Pair it with sweet almond cook- ies or aged cheese. Candied fruit and honey tones drive Bollinger 2004 La Grand Année Brut Taittinger 2002 Comtes de Champagne the long finish. Montcalm Wine Importers. —M.L. 95 Rosé (Champagne). This grand rosé is rich Blanc de Blancs Brut (Champagne). The abv: 14% Price: $19/500 ml 94 and rounded. Its red fruit flavors are layered with toast latest release of the legendary Comtes de Champagne and spice notes, with depth that gives the wine another comes from a great vintage. It has full, toasty bottle- dimension of complexity. It could age in the bottle for age notes that give the wine depth of flavor, with a ripe, SARDINIA at least 3–4 years. Terlato Wines International. —R.V. rounded mouthfeel and taut acidity. An almond note abv: 12% Price: $235 Argiolas 2007 Angialis (Sardinia). Very combines with the citrus-driven acidity on the finish. thick and viscous, this is a sweet expression of Kobrand. —R.V. 92 Pol Roger 2002 Extra Cuvée de Réserve Sardinia’s Nasco grape. Rich aromas of candied fruit, abv: 12% Price: $NA Blanc de Blancs Brut (Champagne). dried apricot, honey and marzipan linger on the palate. 95 For full review see page 4. Cellar Selection. Winebow. —M.L. Aubry 2006 Aubry de Humbert Premier abv: 12.5% Price: $135 abv: 14.5% Price: $65/500 ml 93 Cru Brut (Champagne). This elegant, stylish selection is a mature blend, showing touches of toast Cantina Pedres 2010 Dolci Note Moscato Billecart-Salmon 2002 Cuvée Elisabeth Salmon Brut Rosé (Champagne). and citrusy acidity. It feels superripe on the palate, (Sardinia). Dolci Note, or sweet notes, is a lus- 94 This is 88 a beautifully balanced, elegant and mature sparkler. while still maintaining the focus of its core balance. Age cious offering that bears a bright golden color and lin- this bottle for another few months. Michael Skurnik gering aromas of white flower, honeysuckle and stone There is fruit—ripe strawberry—but the main charac- ter is its fine balance and richness. It can age, though it Wines. —R.V. fruit. Specialty Wine Co. —M.L. abv: 12.5% Price: $NA abv: 7% Price: $15 is at its best now. T. Edward Wines Ltd. —R.V. abv: 12% Price: $NA Gaston Chiquet 2005 Spécial Club Brut OTHER DESSERT WINES Moët & Chandon 2004 Grand Vintage 93 (Champagne). While 2005 is not a great vin- 94 Brut (Champagne). Vintage Champagne tage in Champagne, in the right hands, as here, it can Risata NV Il Rosso (Italy). This sweet, fizzy is always the ultimate expression of a producer. This produce some fine wines. This is beautifully balanced, a 84 red would pair well with sweet almond cookies shows the approachable character of Moët wines, while contrast between soft fruit and a touch of maturity. It is or spicy banana bread. It’s an easy but cheerful wine to adding intensity and complexity. It is taut and miner- not a wine for long aging, and will be completely ready sip at the end of a long, satisfying meal. Prestige Wine ally, with a spiced apple note and nervy acidity. It’s now in a year. Michael Skurnik Wines. —R.V. Group. —M.L. ready to drink, but it also has good aging potential. Moët abv: 12% Price: $74 abv: 11.5% Price: $16 Hennessy USA. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $58 Gaston Chiquet 2004 Spécial Club Brut Astoria NV Salvatore Principe Mi Amore 93 (Champagne). An exceptional wine, this is 83 Moscato (Italy). This sweet sparkler presents Perrier Jouët 2004 Belle Epoque Brut balanced, elegant and rich. It brings out the fine Pinots a cheerful and informal side of the fragrant Moscato 94 (Champagne). This shimmers with its flavors of Dizy and Aÿ blended into weight and richness. There grape. It bursts open with aromas of rose, jasmine and of apple and lime, its hint of toast and its soft finish. It’s is a delicate balance between the fresh fruit and mature sweet honey. The soft bubbling is creamy and smooth. finely balanced, a great selection that is ready to drink toast characters. Age for another two years or drink now. Prestige Wine Group. —M.L. now. Pernod Ricard. —R.V. Michael Skurnik Wines. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: 7% Price: $12 abv: 12.5% Price: $NA abv: 12% Price: $76

Perrier Jouët 2004 Belle Epoque Rosé Mailly Grand Cru 2002 Les Echansons FRANCE 94 (Champagne). With just the right amount of 93 Brut (Champagne). Dominated by Pinot SPARKLING WINES toasty age, this is gorgeous. Its strawberry note is woven Noir, this now-mature wine is full and ripe, a rich exam- into its rich texture, with a flavor of fresh croissant and a ple of a great vintage. It has apple and pear flavors that VINTAGE CHAMPAGNE final burst of acidity. It could age, but why wait? Pernod are now fully integrated into its smoky, toasty character. Ricard. —R.V. In the middle of the brut category, this is ready to drink. Veuve Clicquot Ponsardin 1990 Cave abv: 12.5% Price: $350 Saranty Imports. —R.V. 97 Privée Brut (Champagne). This toasty, su- abv: 12% Price: $NA perbly mature wine is part of a series of releases fea- Pierre Gimonnet et Fils 2005 Spécial turing the house’s cellar-matured . This 94 Club Premier Cru Blanc de Blancs Brut Moët & Chandon 2004 Grand Vintage emerges from the glass with complex flavors of almond, (Champagne). The Spécial Club is a grouping of 93 Brut Rosé (Champagne). This serious, ripe

WineMag.com | 25 offering is packed with red berry and stone fruit flavors. powerful acidity. It is rounded with some bottle age, It’s probably not suited for further aging, but it is a great It also has complex touches of toast and acidity, produc- which gives it a toasty character. Drink now or age for wine to drink now. Moët Hennessy USA. —R.V. ing a sense of dryness. This is finely balanced and is now several years. Michael Skurnik Wines. Cellar Selec- abv: 12.5% Price: $NA ready to drink, but it will also likely age for a few more tion. —R.V. years. Moët Hennessy USA. —R.V. abv: 12% Price: $68 Montaudon 2006 Brut Millesimé (Cham- abv: 12.5% Price: $65 91 pagne). This smooth, toasty selection achieves Pierre Gimonnet et Fils 2005 Oenophile a fine balance between fruitiness and maturity. It is Perrier Jouët 2002 Belle Epoque Blanc 92 Premier Cru Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut open, a good reflection of the forward 2006 vintage. 93 de Blancs Brut (Champagne). An intense (Champagne). The extra age on this bone-dry wine With tangy acidity, ripe pear flavor and a toasty charac- wine that reveals its floral and rich character slowly. It is has paid off, as the taut character of a young wine has ter, it is now ready to drink. Total Wine & More. —R.V. showing only a slight sign of maturity, and more notice- been tempered with toast, creating a round feeling. It is abv: 12% Price: $NA able are its flavors of crisp apple and citrus, along with perfectly in harmony now, beautiful and crisp. Michael bright, tight acidity. It could age well for several more Skurnik Wines. —R.V. René Geoffroy 2006 Volupté Premier Cru years. Pernod Ricard. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $72 91 Brut (Champagne). Rich, ripe and full bod- abv: 12.5% Price: $NA ied, this is a warm, Chardonnay-dominated blend. It Roland Champion 2007 Spécial Club has crisp apple and citrus flavors, followed by a quince Piper-Heidsieck 2004 Millésime Brut 92 Chouilly Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs Brut note and a touch of apricot. The fruit for this wine is 93 (Champagne). This is made in a deeper, rich- (Champagne). In perfect balance now, this is a great sourced from premier cru vineyards, and it could age er style than this producer’s nonvintage. It has weight expression of mineral-driven Chardonnay. Its acidity is a few more months in bottle. Disgorged January 2012. and concentration, and its acidity is balanced by the a vehicle for the crisp flavors of pear and lime, with a Michael Skurnik Wines. —R.V. ripe orange and red apple flavors that are cut by a steely hint of . It’s still young, so drink it now for its great abv: 12.5% Price: $84 edge. On the finish, acidity and fruit come deliciously fruit, or age for four more years. Kysela Père et Fils. together. Remy Cointreau USA. —R.V. Cellar Selection. —R.V. Vilmart & Co 2007 Grand Cellier d’Or Pre- abv: 12% Price: $75 abv: 12.5% Price: $80 91 mier Cru Brut (Champagne). This is defi- nitely dry, yet it still retains the full, rich Vilmart style. Veuve Doussot 2004 Cuvée Guy Joly Mé- Aubry 2008 Ivoire et Ebène Brut (Cham- Crisp, mineral-driven and taut in character, it features a 93 mory Brut (Champagne). This is a beauti- 91 pagne). This beautifully fragrant offering is fine mélange of apple, tangerine, light spice and intense ful, ripe, full-bodied sparkler, balancing rich fruit with definitely on the dry side. It has a crisp apple flavor, -ac citrus. Its texture suggests it needs to age at least three bottle age to produce a round, elegant character. It is companied by a citrus note and taut minerality. This more years. Michael Skurnik Wines. —R.V. delicious to drink now, although there is enough fruit nervy, feather-light wine is better fit for food than as an abv: 12.5% Price: $93 to allow it to age for 2–3 years. Serge Doré Selections. apéritif. Still young, it could age for several more years. Cellar Selection. —R.V. Michael Skurnik Wines. Cellar Selection. —R.V. Aubry 2005 Le Nombre d’Or Brut (Cham- abv: 12% Price: $120 abv: 12.5% Price: $65 90 pagne). One of Aubry’s two Champagnes from relatively rare grape varieties, this is a full-throated Vilmart & Co 2004 Coeur de Cuvée Pre- Aubry 2007 Le Nombre d’Or Sablé Blanc wine, replete with ripe fruit. Full bodied and rich, it has 93 mier Cru Brut (Champagne). This is an 91 de Blancs Brut (Champagne). Attractively weight and intensity. Its yellow fruit is laced with com- ultra­rich, full and elegant selection. It’s intense and con- mature, this has a toast flavor that combines delicately plex acidity from citrus. Michael Skurnik Wines. —R.V. centrated, a serious wine that speaks of its fine depth of with citrus and pineapple notes. Tight, crisp and tex- abv: 12.5% Price: $63 flavor and weight. Now ready to drink. Michael Skurnik tured, it is delicious and fragrant. This includes old Wines. —R.V. Champagne varieties, including the unusual Arbanne H. Blin 2000 Exception Blanche Grand abv: 12.5% Price: $148 and Petit Meslier. Michael Skurnik Wines. —R.V. 90 Cru Brut (Champagne). The 2000 vintage abv: 12.5% Price: $82 was not the finest in Champagne, so it’s no surprise this Bruno Paillard 2002 Assemblage Brut wine is now mature. Though still fresh, there are at- 92 (Champagne). This is a powerful, almost con- H. Billiot Fils 2005 Millésime Grand Cru tractive toast and vanilla characters accompanying its centrated, very dry selection. Its richness comes from 91 Brut (Champagne). Still young, this is an im- apricot and quince flavors. Drink now. Robert Houde the weight of its fruit flavors and the tight tang of its pressive vintage, ripe and full, yet well-balanced with Wines. —R.V. intense acidity. From a fine vintage, it could still age for rich fruit and toast. It has weight, with a solid, dry feel abv: 12% Price: $NA several more years. Disgorged July 2011. Vintus LLC. that promises aging potential. Disgorged June 2012. —R.V. Cellar Selection. —R.V. Mailly Grand Cru 2007 L’Intemporelle abv: 12% Price: $NA abv: 12.5% Price: $NA 90 Brut (Champagne). This taut, nervy wine has tight structure and acidity. It’s very crisp and dry to Gaston Chiquet 2004 Premier Cru Brut Henri Goutorbe 2004 Spécial Club Grand taste, offering intense green apple and lemon zest. The 92 (Champagne). A ripe, golden selection, glow- 91 Cru Brut (Champagne). This ripe and fruity wine will be even better in 2–3 years. Saranty Imports. ing with a just-ready-to-drink feeling. From a fine vin- style shows yellow fruit and citrus, producing a full-bod- —R.V. tage, this is structured and complex, layering acidity ied wine. With its weight and richness, it is a delicious abv: 12% Price: $NA with sweet, juicy fruits and an attractive touch of toast. wine to drink now, but this blend also shows potential Michael Skurnik Wines. —R.V. for bottle aging. Michael Skurnik Wines. —R.V. Mailly Grand Cru 2007 L’Intemporelle abv: 12.5% Price: $65 abv: 12% Price: $85 90 Brut Rosé (Champagne). This is a beauti- fully crisp and fruity wine with just the right amount H. Blin 2002 Blin’s Édition Limitée Mil- Moët & Chandon 1993 Grand Vintage of softness to round it out. It is rich, with raspberry- 92 lésime Extra Brut (Champagne). For full 91 Collection Brut (Champagne). While the driven acidity cutting its tangy lime-zest texture. Ready review see page 7. vintage of 1993 was certainly not the finest in Cham- to drink now. Saranty Imports. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $70 pagne, it can still hold its head high. This is mature— abv: 12% Price: $NA certainly not old—a fine wine, with toast and almond Jean Milan 2008 Symphorine Sélection flavors and swathes of acidity to keep it lively and bright. Pierre Gimonnet et Fils 2008 Cuvée Gas- 92 Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru Brut (Cham- 90 tronome Premier Cru Blanc de Blancs pagne). This serious, complex selection features a live- Brut (Champagne). Taut and crisp, this is in the dry ly mousse. It balances ripe yellow and white fruits with Gimonnet style. It is expressive and mineral driven, all

26 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | DECEMBER 2012 citrus and green apple skin. Alongside this tense char- skin. It is rich, tasting as much like wine as like G. H. Mumm NV Mumm de Cramant acter, there is an elegance, with its bright acidity cutting sparkling wine, with a full and ripe, yet dry, feel. James 92 Blanc de Blancs (Champagne). Now with through the fruit. This is food friendly. Michael Skurnik W Imports Quench Fine Wines. —R.V. its intensity and some bottle age, this wine—formerly Wines. —R.V. abv: 12% Price: $69 known as Crémant de Cramant—is rich, with its apple abv: 12.5% Price: $61 flavor blending with an almond note and a soft, warm Michel Moritz 2006 Noblesse d’Or Vin- texture. The acidity shoots right through this ripe wine. René Geoffroy 2006 Empreinte Premier 87 tage Brut (Champagne). From the lesser- Pernod Ricard. —R.V. 90 Cru Brut (Champagne). Geoffroy’s style pro- quality 2006 vintage, this is a gentle and tangy selection. abv: 12% Price: $NA duces a full, rich offering, one that benefits from ripe Pi- It has lemon zest and steely acidity, with light touches not Noir. The vintage gives it a soft, rounded character, of grapefruit and crisp apple. Not for aging, this is an at- H. Billiot Fils NV Cuvée Julie Grand Cru featuring pear, quince and seemingly sweet citrus fla- tractive wine to drink now. Ambition Beverages. —R.V. 92 Brut (Champagne). Aged in wood before vors. It is balanced, with a crisp finish. Michael Skurnik abv: 12% Price: $220 bottling, this is ripe and very full. Rather than add to Wines. —R.V. the already-complex flavors, the wood has rounded it abv: 12.5% Price: $60 out. Yellow fruit integrates with intense, mineral-driven NONVINTAGE acidity, which accentuates the richness of this impres- Tendil & Lombardi 2008 Blanc de Noirs CHAMPAGNE sive bottling. Disgorged June 2012. Michael Skurnik 90 Brut (Champagne). This 100% Pinot Noir Wines. —R.V. bottling has weight and a sense of structure. It is dry Pierre Gimonnet et Fils NV Sélection abv: 12.5% Price: $NA and moderately tannic, with citrus and green apple 94 Belles Années Blanc de Blancs Brut flavors. It’s a young, intensely textured wine, one that (Champagne). This is an impressively rich nonvintage Jean Milan NV Grande Réserve Blanc de needs bottle aging for at least four years. James W Im- selection, with tropical fruit as well as a mineral-driven 92 Blancs Grand Cru Brut (Champagne). ports. —R.V. character. It’s impressive and would certainly take more Fight your way through the string and wax sealing that abv: 12% Price: $69 bottle aging. Michael Skurnik Wines. Editors’ Choice. holds down the cork, and you’ll discover a wine that is —R.V. rich, full and opulent. The ripe peach character is bal- Veuve Doussot 2007 Millésime Brut abv: 12.5% Price: $44 anced with the delicious toasty edge and final bright (Champagne). This producer in the Aude has 90 acidity. Ready to drink. Michael Skurnik Wines. —R.V. made a rounded, rich bottling that’s packed with tropi- Billecart-Salmon NV Brut Sous Bois Brut abv: 12% Price: $NA cal fruits and orange-zest acidity, with a lively, lemon- 93 (Champagne). In this case, Sous Bois, which and-grapefruit texture on the finish. The final feel is bal- is French for “under wood,” refers to the wine’s first fer- Montaudon NV Classe M (Champagne). anced, ripe and round. Serge Doré Selections. —R.V. mentation in wood. This creates an extra dimension of This is rich, full bodied and packed with ripe abv: 12% Price: $NA 92 richness, with a slight sense of oxidation. At the same fruit. It has weight and concentration, while retaining time, the fruit feels lifted and open. T. Edward Wines the light touch of the house style. With its white fruit Pol Roger 2004 Extra Cuvée de Réserve Ltd. —R.V. and apricot flavors, it could age a few years in bottle, Brut Rosé (Champagne). This has a rela- 89 abv: 12% Price: $NA though it’s drinkable now. Total Wine & More. —R.V. tively high dosage, producing a ripe strawberry flavor. abv: 12% Price: $NA It’s full bodied, touched by a spice note, as well as some Charles Heidsieck NV Brut Réserve toast from bottle age. The finish shows that this is a rosé (Champagne). For full review see page 6. Pehu-Simonet NV Blanc de Noirs Grand fit for food. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —R.V. 93 Editors’ Choice. Cru Brut (Champagne). The pure Pinot abv: 12.5% Price: $NA 92 abv: 12% Price: $60 gives a powerful character to this Champagne. There René Geoffroy 2004 Millesimé Extra Brut is terrific tension, producing a wine that is firmly struc- Pehu-Simonet NV Blanc de Blancs Grand (Champagne). The bone-dry crispness of this tured, full of ripe flavors of white fruit and red apple 89 Cru Brut (Champagne). This is Pehu-Sim- wine showcases Geoffroy’s full style. It has weight, in- 93 skin. It’s full bodied and dry in the Pehu-Simonet style. onet’s contrast with its Blanc de Noirs from the Mon- tense acidity and flavors of taut lime and pure mineral. Michael Skurnik Wines. —R.V. tagne de Reims. It has the same dryness as that wine, Age for 2–3 years. Disgorged December 2011. Michael abv: 12.5% Price: $72 but it features a more open character. There is, of Skurnik Wines. —R.V. course, minerality imparted from the chalk soil, which abv: 12.5% Price: $NA Pierre Gimonnet et Fils NV Cuvée Cuis is balanced deliciously with an intense citrus flavor. Age 92 Premier Cru Blanc de Blancs Brut (Cham- Roland Champion 2004 Carte Noire Grand for another year in bottle. Michael Skurnik Wines. Cel- pagne). With its crisp apple fruit and touch of citrus, 89 Cru Blanc de Blancs Brut (Champagne). lar Selection. —R.V. this initially seems to be merely fruit. Then, slowly, rich- This tangy, zesty wine has a taut and tense character, abv: 12.5% Price: $72 ness and a sense of maturity emerge to create a wine balanced with acidity, fruitiness and firm texture. It that is complex, full and rich. Open this an hour before Bollinger NV Special Cuvée Brut (Cham- needs 3–4 years of bottle aging. Kysela Père et Fils. pouring. Michael Skurnik Wines. —R.V. pagne). —R.V. 92 The classic Bollinger nonvintage is, as abv: 12.5% Price: $51 abv: 12.5% Price: $66 always, rich and firmly structured. With the roundness that comes from aging the wines in wood before blend- Varnier Fannière NV Cuvée St. Denis H. Blin 2004 Millésime Brut (Cham- ing, it has a ripe, smooth edge. Underneath, the texture 92 Grand Cru Brut (Champagne). Although 88 pagne). This toasty, spicy selection is dominat- is solid, with hints of apple and pear and mature acidity. not indicated on the label, this is a blanc de blancs. It ed by strong new-wood flavors. It has a rich character, Terlato Wines International. —R.V. veers toward bone dry, while maintaining just a hint of with pear and peach flavors and gentle acidity. There is abv: 12% Price: $90 ripe tropical fruit to round out the crisp, mineral tex- a crisp finish to this ripe wine. Robert Houde Wines. ture. It could age over several years. Michael Skurnik —R.V. Charles Heidsieck NV Brut Rosé Réserve Wines. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $50 92 (Champagne). This is a beautifully balanced abv: 12% Price: $67 and elegant offering, with pleasant fruitiness, tight acid- Tendil & Lombardi 2007 Rosé de Saignée ity and a fragrant, crisp character. It’s full bodied, and Billecart-Salmon NV Extra Brut (Cham- 88 Brut (Champagne). A rare rosé Champagne falls in the middle of the brut spectrum of dryness. This 91 pagne). With zero dosage, this is obviously a whose color comes from Pinot Noir skins rather than is ready to drink now. Remy Cointreau USA. —R.V. very dry Champagne. But such is the richness of its fruit from added red wine, this has vivid colors of orange and abv: 12% Price: $NA that it tastes ripe and rounded, allowing the citrus bite

WineMag.com | 27 to fit well with the apple skin flavor. It could age a year. baked apple flavor, finishing on a high note of acidity. eral driven, layering acidity, citrus and white fruit in a T. Edward Wines Ltd. —R.V. Disgorged March 2012. A. Hardy USA. —R.V. complex, elegant whole. Kysela Père et Fils. —R.V. abv: 12% Price: $NA abv: 12% Price: $52 abv: 12.5% Price: $54

Bollinger NV Brut Rosé (Champagne). Forget-Brimont NV Blanc de Blancs Tendil & Lombardi NV Blanc de Blancs 91 Seductively light in color, this is based on Pi- 90 Grand Cru Brut (Champagne). This is a 90 Brut (Champagne). Light as a feather, this not Noir. It has a fine balance and a touch of toast. The ripe, rich and full-bodied selection that has a flavor of is delightful and fragrant. Its fruits are refreshing, with fresh red-fruit and citrus flavors harmonize into a com- spiced pear. It has weight and intensity, a wine that is on crisp pear and melon flavors that accompany its ripe plex whole. Like many Bollinger Champagnes, it’s a de- the sweeter side of brut, although this character is finely acidity. The wine dances on the palate, it’s a great apéri- tif with a slightly sweet finish. James W Imports. —R.V. licious, full-bodied selection that’s best suited for food. integrated. The finish brings out delicious acidity. Holi- abv: 12% Price: $59 Terlato Wines International. —R.V. day Beverage. —R.V. abv: 12% Price: $110 abv: 12% Price: $110 Varnier Fannière NV Grand Cru Brut (Champagne). This crisp, fruity wine is made Drappier NV Quattuor Blanc de Blancs Franck Bonville NV Les Belles Voyes 90 Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs Brut (Cham- exclusively from Chardonnay in Varnier Fannière’s Côte Brut (Champagne). This blend of Chardon- 90 91 pagne). This has finesse and elegance, with a thin des Blancs vineyards. It has a citrus flavor, with touches nay, with portions of the rare white grapes , Petit stream of bubbles and crisp, dry apple flavor. It is taut of green plum and quince, and a tight, mineral charac- Meslier and Blanc Vrai, produces a wine that is richer with a cool feel, still young in the bottle and worth aging ter. Ideally, this should be aged for a year, but it is drink- than a blanc de blancs, with notes of crisp peach, pear a year. Total Wine & More. —R.V. able now. Michael Skurnik Wines. —R.V. and a hint of red fruit. It could be aged for a few months abv: 12.5% Price: $NA abv: 12% Price: $57 to deepen the flavors. A. Hardy USA. —R.V. abv: 12% Price: $52 Gaston Chiquet NV Brut Rosé (Cham- Champagne Gremillet NV Grand Réserve pagne). This soft, warm rosé has plenty of Pi- 89 Brut (Champagne). Based in the Aube, in the Drappier NV Zéro Dosage Brut Nature 90 not Noir in the blend to give it weight. Raspberry and southern Champagne vineyards, Gremillet’s wines are (Champagne). 91 This is dry, but not quite bone red plum notes accompany touches of tannin and min- warm and rich. This has almond and spice characters, dry. The richness of the smooth Pinot Noir is enough erality. The acidity is infectious, making this a great a touch of vanilla and tight acidity. It could do with a year’s bottle age. The Artisan Collection. —R.V. to round out the crisp apple and lime flavors, giving match for food. Michael Skurnik Wines. —R.V. abv: 12% Price: $NA it a wonderful brightness. It could be aged, though its abv: 12.5% Price: $54 freshness makes it drinkable now. A. Hardy USA. Edi- Drappier NV Carte d’Or Brut (Cham- tors’ Choice. —R.V. H. Billiot Fils NV Cuvée Laetitia Brut pagne). Drappier’s nonvintage blend is a wine abv: 12% Price: $49 (Champagne). With a strong, mousse-like 89 90 that hits precisely the right note of freshness, with a soft, feel in the mouth, this is a lively offering. It’s yellow fruit rich feeling. It features apple and crisp citrus notes, Forget-Brimont NV Charles de Brimont is layered with toastiness. It has a rich feel, very much with light hints of yellow fruit and pineapple. At the Cuvée Prestige Premier Cru Brut (Cham- in the Billiot style, and a complex, compact character. 91 same time, there is an attractive feeling of maturity in pagne). Produced from vineyards in Ludes on the It is ready to drink. Disgorged October 2011. Michael the bottling. A. Hardy USA. —R.V. Montagne de Reims, this is a rich selection. A good pro- Skurnik Wines. —R.V. abv: 12% Price: $42 portion of Pinot Noir creates ripe notes of apple and abv: 12.5% Price: $106 black currant, laced with intense, crisp acidity. It will Drappier NV Zéro Dosage Brut Rosé Na- Henri Goutorbe NV Brut Rosé Grand Cru take 1–2 years of bottle aging. Holiday Beverage. Cel- ture (Champagne). Drappier seems to be (Champagne). Very dry and rich, this is a taut, 89 lar Selection. —R.V. 90 able to make a bone-dry wine without losing rich fruit tense bottling of Goutorbe’s rosé. It has apple and red abv: 12% Price: $70 character. It is crisp, tight and packed with acidity, yet currant flavors, laced with intense acidity and a bright it also has a full, very attractive strawberry character. A. Franck Bonville NV Grand Cru Avize texture. With more bottle aging, it could be an apéri- Hardy USA. —R.V. 91 Blanc de Blancs Brut (Champagne). tif wine. For now, it is best with food. Michael Skurnik abv: 12% Price: $52 From the heartland of Chardonnay in Champagne Wines. —R.V. comes this rich, creamy, apple-flavored wine. It has live- abv: 12% Price: $60 H. Blin NV Blanc de Blancs Brut (Cham- ly acidity, balanced with some sweetness from the dos- 89 pagne). Like other wines from Blin, this seems Pehu-Simonet NV Brut Rosé Grand Cru age. It has weight and a crisp aftertaste. Total Wine & to have some good bottle age, which has rounded out (Champagne). This is an attractive, onion- More. —R.V. 90 the naturally crisp character of the wine. The tight citrus skin-colored wine, dry and crisp. It has red currant and abv: NA Price: $NA flavor is soft, giving a fragrant, mouthfilling feel. Robert lemon zest flavors, taut and with a definite mineral char- Houde Wines. —R.V. acter. This rosé could probably age and is certainly one Gaston Chiquet NV Grand Cru Blanc de abv: 12.5% Price: $50 for food. Michael Skurnik Wines. —R.V. Blancs Brut d’Aÿ (Champagne). Aÿ is bet- 91 abv: 12.5% Price: $61 Jean Milan NV Spécial Blanc de Blancs ter known for its Pinot Noir, so it’s rare to find a blanc de Grand Cru Brut (Champagne). This crisp, blancs. Made in a rich style, it’s full of grapefruit, citrus 89 Pierre Péters NV Cuvée de Réserve very dry wine tastes young and will improve with bottle and apricot flavors. It balances this with taut, crisp acid- 90 Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs Brut (Cham- age. It has apples and intense citrus flavors, with a tangy, ity to produce a full wine that retains the dancing qual- pagne). This is a beautifully balanced selection that’s steely texture. Michael Skurnik Wines. —R.V. ity of a blanc de blancs. Michael Skurnik Wines. —R.V. crisp and laced with taut apple and citrus flavors. It has abv: 12% Price: $54 abv: 12.5% Price: $55 a rich texture, intense fruit and a tight minerality, which gives it structure and the potential for bottle aging. Mi- Perrier Jouët NV Blason Brut Rosé Drappier NV Zéro Dosage Sans Ajout de chael Skurnik Wines. —R.V. 89 (Champagne). This fruity selection has 90 Soufre Brut Nature (Champagne). By not abv: 12% Price: $58 some of the elegant style for which Perrier-Jouët is adding sulfur to the wine, André and Michel Drappi- best known, while also including ripe strawberry and er have managed to produce a wine with greater depth Roland Champion NV Carte Blanche red currant characters. It is immediately attractive and than most, perhaps compounded by the slight oxidation 90 Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs Brut (Cham- ready to drink. Pernod Ricard. —R.V. that gives richness. It’s a food wine, dry and packed with pagne). A finely wrought wine, this is tangy and min- abv: 12% Price: $NA

28 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | DECEMBER 2012 Perrier Jouët NV Grand Brut (Cham- signs of bottle age in its toasty character. Holiday Bev- mousse, and the crisp finish provides an attractive lift. 89 pagne). In the elegant style of Perrier-Jouët, erage. —R.V. Remy Cointreau USA. —R.V. this is rich and stylish, showing attractive toast, with abv: 12% Price: $65 abv: 12% Price: $60 a touch of sweet apple. This standard nonvintage has some richness, while maintaining its strong, fresh qual- Gaston Chiquet NV Tradition Premier Cru René Geoffroy NV Expression Brut ity. Pernod Ricard. —R.V. 88 Brut (Champagne). Gaston Chiquet’s non- 88 (Champagne). This full-bodied wine is abv: 12% Price: $NA vintage offering features a toastiness that testifies to packed with citrus and tight, apple-driven acidity, as its bottle aging. Along with that feeling of richness, it well as a rich touch of apricot. This fruitiness is bal- Pierre Péters NV Rosé for Albane Brut also contains balanced acidity. Full, crisp and lively, the anced by a deliciously refreshing character that creates 89 (Champagne). With a delicate orange-pink fresh and fruity aftertaste is delicious. Michael Skurnik texture and a steely, minerally feel. Michael Skurnik color, this is a sophisticated rosé, balancing its acidity Wines. —R.V. Wines. —R.V. easily with raspberry fruit flavor. It’s light and fruity, yet abv: 12.5% Price: $48 abv: 12.5% Price: $50 offers a touch of structure that lifts it to another level. Michael Skurnik Wines. —R.V. H. Billiot Fils NV Brut Réserve Grand Cru Roland Champion NV Cuvée Aramis Brut abv: 12% Price: $NA 88 (Champagne). This full-bodied offering is 88 (Champagne). This is a full-bodied wine, with ripe and richly balanced. A predominance of the two the Pinot fruit showing strongly in the blend, produc- Piper-Heidsieck NV Brut (Champagne). Pinots gives it an intense fruitiness, with raspberry and ing richness and a sweet-tasting character. This most re- 89 This is a bright style of Champagne that’s fresh red apple notes dominating. At the same time, there cent cuvée from Roland Champion is powerful—a fine and crisp. It has a strong citrus tang, with notes of green is a fine, mineral-driven tautness that gives it a final, combination of minerality and bottle age. Keep it for apple and attractive lemon zest. It is fit for an apéritif. crisp bite. Disgorged February 2012. Michael Skurnik 3–4 years, but it can be consumed now. Kysela Père et Remy Cointreau USA. —R.V. Wines. —R.V. Fils. —R.V. abv: 12% Price: $45 abv: 12.5% Price: $56 abv: 12.5% Price: $50

Tendil & Lombardi NV Cuvée Hyménée Jacquart NV Brut de Nominée (Cham- Tendil & Lombardi NV Blanc de Noirs 89 Brut (Champagne). This is a rich-yet-dry se- 88 pagne). From a bottling that has some toasty 88 Brut (Champagne). This dry, 100% Pinot lection, with a lively mousse and a ripe apple flavor. It maturity, this is a rounded wine. Almond and apple fla- Noir Champagne has tense acidity as well as crisp ap- feels rich, touched by toast, and its acidity serves as an vors balance each other to produce a ripe and smoothly ple- and citrus-driven acidity. With its taut mineral char- attractive contrast. This nonvintage has some bottle age soft selection. It has notes of toast and mushroom, as acter, it needs at least a year to soften. James W Imports. to round out the finish. James W Imports. —R.V. well as ripe, lime-driven acidity on the finish. JAD Im- —R.V. abv: 12% Price: $89 ports. —R.V. abv: 12% Price: $59 abv: 12.5% Price: $NA Varnier Fannière NV Brut Rosé Grand Veuve Doussot NV Blanc de Blancs Brut 89 Cru (Champagne). The 10% Pinot Noir in Le Grix de la Salle NV Brut Extra (Cham- 88 (Champagne). This fruity selection is full of this otherwise Chardonnay-dominant blend adds an at- 88 pagne). Dry and crisp, this is dominated by ap- apple, citrus and white peach notes. Its fruit is balanced tractive, light pink color. It is crisp and fragrant. Pinot ple flavor. It’s light in texture, attractively fruity and has by a crisp texture and a tang of orange zest. The wine is Noir’s tannins barely show, while Chardonnay’s apple- a youthful feel to it. It could age a few months in bottle. round and warm, fitting for a Chardonnay from south- driven acidity comes through strongly. Michael Skurnik BCI LLC. —R.V. ern Champagne. Serge Doré Selections. —R.V. Wines. —R.V. abv: 12% Price: $45 abv: 12% Price: $NA abv: 12% Price: $67 Moët & Chandon NV Impérial Brut (Cham- Veuve Doussot NV Grande Cuvée Extra Vilmart & Co NV Grand Cellier Premier 88 pagne). A lively mousse leads to a wine that 88 Brut (Champagne). Following the fashion of 89 Cru Brut (Champagne). This ripe, fruity of- is now drier than in the past; it’s crisp and apple-juice bone-dry Champagnes, this is extremely crisp and taut. fering has great depth of flavor. Vilmart is known for fresh. This is tight, bright and fruity, with a refreshing, Acidity cuts the citrus and apple flavors to produce a rich wines like this, with a high proportion of Pinot Noir citrusy finish. Moët Hennessy USA. —R.V. steely feel, with concentrated fruit juice and a textured in the blend. It’s full, with a good balance of dosage and abv: 12% Price: $NA character. It’s worth aging the wine for a few more a crisp finish. Michael Skurnik Wines. —R.V. months. Serge Doré Selections. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $NA Moët & Chandon NV Impérial Brut Rosé abv: 12.5% Price: $NA 88 (Champagne). The rosé rendition of one of Aubry NV Brut Rosé Premier Cru (Cham- the best-selling Champagnes has been reformulated for Aubry NV Premier Cru Brut (Cham- 88 pagne). This intensely fruity selection is the U.S. market. It is now on the dry side, pushing for- 87 pagne). This dry, full-bodied selection benefits packed with red fruit that overlays its soft, tangy texture. ward its delicious red fruit. Bright acidity gives the pal- from the rich Pinot in the blend. It has a tight, minerally Orange zest and citrus flavors give the right amount of ate a lift, while there is some good weight on the finish. texture, its acidity cutting the flavors of lime juice and freshness to this ready-to-drink wine. Michael Skurnik Moët Hennessy USA. —R.V. orange zest. Michael Skurnik Wines. —R.V. Wines. —R.V. abv: 12% Price: $NA abv: 12.5% Price: $42 abv: 12.5% Price: $59 Montaudon NV Réserve Première Brut Champagne Gremillet NV Cuvée des Forget-Brimont NV Michel Forget Grand 88 (Champagne). This is a bright, crisp, non- 87 Dames Chardonnay Brut (Champagne). 88 Cru Brut Rosé (Champagne). A wine with vintage blend. While it is fruity and youthful in char- This is a bright, tight wine, with flavors of citrus and quite a kick of acidity, this features crisp apple and acter, the blend’s older vintages also make it taste ma- white fruit. It has intense acidity, and the sweetness of strawberry flavors. It is full bodied, ripe and fruity. A ture. Pear and apple notes dominate, lacing through the the dosage gives it a soft feeling. It’s light and fruity. The tang of freshness gives the wine’s ripeness a welcome tangy, zesty texture. Total Wine & More. —R.V. Artisan Collection. —R.V. lift. Holiday Beverage. —R.V. abv: 12% Price: $NA abv: 12% Price: $NA abv: 12% Price: $110 Piper-Heidsieck NV Cuvée Sublime Demi- Champagne Gremillet NV Sélection Brut Forget-Brimont NV Michel Forget Pre- 88 Sec (Champagne). With its aroma of sweet 87 (Champagne). This ripe, soft selection is full 88 mier Cru Brut (Champagne). This full, apple and fruity character, this is an immediately like- of fresh white fruit and apricot flavors. An apéritif style, round wine melds rich pear and tangerine flavors with able wine. It is ripe, with plenty of acidity. It has a lively fine acidity. It’s crisp, fragrant and ripe, showing some

WineMag.com | 29 it’s warm and fruity, its tight acidity balanced by the rich Mailly Grand Cru NV Délice Demi-Sec despite the intruding sweetness. Ambition Beverages. aftertaste. The Artisan Collection. —R.V. 87 (Champagne). This well-balanced, off-dry —R.V. abv: 12% Price: $NA wine has a fine line of acidity to balance its gentle sweet- abv: 12% Price: $495 ness. It features flavors of vanilla and baked apples. The Franck Bonville NV Grand Cru Blanc de wine could be matched with fruit desserts, but it is best René Geoffroy NV Rosé de Saignée Pre- 87 Blancs Brut Prestige (Champagne). It’s a consumed on its own. Saranty Imports. —R.V. 86 mier Cru Brut (Champagne). This full, rich, yeasty wine with ripe apple and peach flavors ac- abv: 12% Price: $NA rich style of rosé gets its color from grape skins, which companying a soft texture. It’s a rounded Champagne, provides a touch of tannin as well as strawberry flavor on the sweeter side of brut, finishing with attractive Michel Moritz NV Noblesse Brut (Cham- and attractive acidity. It’s definitely for food. Michael acidity. Total Wine & More. —R.V. 87 pagne). This ripe, full-bodied offering has a Skurnik Wines. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $NA soft feeling due to its rich dosage. It features apple and abv: 12.5% Price: $NA ripe pear flavors, with a shaft of acidity that creates a G. H. Mumm NV Brut Rosé (Champagne). crisp, fresh aftertaste. Ambition Beverages. —R.V. Roland Champion NV Brut Rosé (Cham- 87 This salmon-pink-colored wine is refreshingly abv: 12% Price: $70 85 pagne). With its red berry flavor and touch of fruity, with attractively crisp acid offsetting the bright citrus, this is very fruity. It’s attractive, crisp and open. red fruit and apple flavors. Drier than in past vintages, it Montaudon NV Grand Brut Rosé (Cham- Kysela Père et Fils. —R.V. still has a ripe, soft finish. Pernod Ricard. —R.V. 87 pagne). This attractive, light-colored rosé is abv: 12.5% Price: $58 abv: 12% Price: $NA dry, but its richness, crushed strawberry flavor and tex- tured acidity neatly combine to produce a crisp, yet full, G. H. Mumm NV Cordon Rouge Brut wine. Ready to drink. Total Wine & More. —R.V. ALSACE (Champagne). 87 One of the best-known Cham- abv: 12% Price: $NA Pierre Sparr NV Brut Réserve (Crémant pagnes on the market, this tastes relatively dry. It isn’t d’Alsace). This fruity wine is packed with fla- losing its bright, open fruitiness, but that quality now Piper-Heidsieck NV Brut Rosé Sauvage 88 vors of creamed apple, citrus and quince. It is rich and joins a structured, mineral-driven edge. This could work (Champagne). With its vivid pink color, this 87 full in the mouth, with a dancing mousse that gives it a as an apéritif or it could be paired with food. Pernod wine has a strawberry flavor, and it is sweeter-tasting delicious lift. Wilson Daniels Ltd. —R.V. Ricard. —R.V. than in past vintages. It feels soft and textured, with lay- abv: 12% Price: $19 abv: 12% Price: $NA ers of raspberry-driven acidity. The aftertaste has some bitterness. Remy Cointreau USA. —R.V. Wunsch & Mann NV Crémant d’Alsace. H. Blin NV Brut (Champagne). Blin’s non- abv: 12% Price: $55 A sweet apple aroma leads to an off-dry, fruity vintage cuvée is a blend of Pinot Meunier and 87 87 wine. With its baked apple and citrus flavors, it is fra- Chardonnay, producing a rich, soft feeling. Its acidity René Geoffroy NV Blanc de Rosé Extra grant, lively and very fresh. There’s an attractive light- is deliciously balanced by the ripe apple and pineapple Brut (Champagne). Despite its name, this is 87 ness to the finish. BCI LLC. —R.V. notes. Ready to drink, it is an apéritif-style offering. in fact a rosé, which is light orange-pink in color. It is abv: 12% Price: $20 Robert Houde Wines. —R.V. bone dry, mineral, taut and crisp. Red currant and lime abv: 12.5% Price: $40 flavors mingle with a tight acidity and totally dry after- Wunsch & Mann 2009 Brut (Crémant taste. Disgorged June 2012. Michael Skurnik Wines. d’Alsace). This is a yeasty offering that’s full on H. Blin NV Brut Rosé (Champagne). A 87 —R.V. the palate, with a rich mousse. Yellow and white fruits soft, ripe rosé, this is on the sweeter side of brut. 87 abv: 12.5% Price: $NA contribute to its richness, a touch of bitterness balanced It also has a flavor of bottle maturity that blends easily with the fruity acidity. Drink now, or age for a year. BCI with attractive crisp acidity and a fragrant rose hip char- Tendil & Lombardi NV Rosé de Saignée LLC. —R.V. Brut (Champagne). acter. It is ready to drink. Robert Houde Wines. —R.V. 87 This intensely crisp se- abv: 12% Price: $20 abv: 12.5% Price: $45 lection shows its red-currant-driven acidity immediate- ly. It is a fragrant, refreshing wine, very food-oriented Arthur Metz 2010 Brut Millesimé (Cré- Henri Goutorbe NV Cuvée Prestige Pre- with its dry character. It has touch of toast and a taut, mant d’Alsace). This rounded, yeasty wine mier Cru Brut (Champagne). This rich se- 86 87 minerally finish. James W Imports. —R.V. features apple, bitter almond and some fruity acidity. It lection has a touch of bottle age that creates a toasty abv: 12% Price: $59 is full, rich and creamy-textured. Prestige Wine Group. character. It features ripe apricot and peach notes, with —R.V. H. Billiot Fils NV Brut Rosé (Champagne). warm and taut acidity. Ready to drink. Michael Skurnik abv: 12% Price: $NA Wines. —R.V. 86 This soft style contains a warm, crushed straw- abv: 12% Price: $52 berry flavor and ripe acidity, which creates a warm and rounded feel. The wine an edge of bitterness to to a BURGUNDY Jacquart NV Brut Mosaïque (Cham- slight hint of tannin. Disgorged November 2011. Mi- 87 pagne). The style of Jacquart’s nonvintage chael Skurnik Wines. —R.V. Jaffelin NV Blanc de Blancs Brut (Cré- Champagne is rich, ripe and full bodied. Along with abv: 12.5% Price: $NA 86 mant de Bourgogne). This is a well-made, its generous feel, it features apple-driven acidity, pink round Crémant from 100% Chardonnay. It has a good grapefruit flavor and a final, attractive bite of crispness. Jacquart NV Extra Brut (Champagne). balance of minerality and fruit, offering lively acidity as It tastes young, fruity and bright. JAD Imports. —R.V. 86 Although it’s very dry, this also has some toasty well as ripe apple and white currant flavors. It has a re- abv: 12.5% Price: $NA bottle age that softens the impact of its raw fruit flavor. freshing, lifted finish. Epic Wines. —R.V. It is taut, with a crisp apple-skin texture and consider- abv: 12% Price: $17 Jacquart NV Brut Rosé (Champagne). An able acidity, balanced by a yeasty character. JAD Im- 87 attractive salmon color introduces this crisp and ports. —R.V. Moingeon NV Brut (Crémant de Bour- fruity wine. Lively and full bodied, it has bright acidity, abv: 12.5% Price: $NA 86 gogne). This ripe, fruity wine has attractive as well as fresh strawberry flavor. It’s dry, dominated by acidity that’s balanced with yellow fruit and apple notes. youthful acidity. It will benefit from a few more months Michel Moritz NV Noblesse d’Or Brut It shows a bright character, with some good intensity of in bottle. JAD Imports. —R.V. 86 Rosé (Champagne). This new Champagne flavor and a crisp, refreshing finish. Serge Doré Selec- abv: 12.5% Price: $NA brand’s rosé is soft, with a sweet strawberry flavor. It has tions. —R.V. a fine balance of acidity and ripe fruit, with a crisp finish abv: 12% Price: $NA

30 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | DECEMBER 2012 Domaine Luquet NV Blanc de Blancs VIN MOUSSEUX It’s medium weight, with a direct but tasty palate and a 85 Brut (Crémant de Bourgogne). This is a medium-length finish. Drink now. Hand Picked Selec- ripe, fruity, creamy Chardonnay-based sparkler. It has a Royal Muscato NV Pink (Vin Mousseux). tions. —L.B. tropical fruit flavor, with some sweetness from both the 85 For full review see page 14. Best Buy. abv: 13% Price: $24 fruit and the high dosage. It’s in a full-bodied, attractive abv: 11% Price: $8 Domaine Delsol 2011 Picpoul de Pinet apéritif style. Total Wine & More. —R.V. Le Grand Courtage NV Grande Cuvée (Coteaux du Languedoc). Here’s a fresh and abv: 12.5% Price: $20 87 84 Blanc de Blancs Brut (Vin Mousseux). approachable selection, with notes of crisp citrus, green melon and apple. There’s a hint of sweet lemon on the Jaffelin NV Brut Rosé (Crémant de Bour- Crisp, apple-flavored and touched by citrus, this is light and toasty. The finish is dry, fruity and fresh. Ready to palate, followed by a brisk, mouthwatering finish. Drink gogne). This is made in a fruity style, with at- 85 drink. Le Grand Courtage. —R.V. now. Scoperta Importing Co. Inc. Best Buy. —L.B. tractive red-fruit flavors. It is dry and laced with acidity. abv: 11.5% Price: $20 abv: 12.5% Price: $11 It has richness, a full body and refreshing final acidity. Epic Wines. —R.V. Marquis de Perlade NV Blanc de Blancs Hecht & Bannier 2011 White (Langued- abv: 12% Price: $18 84 (Vin Mousseux). This attractively fruity of- 87 oc). This 50-50 blend of Picpoul Blanc and fering features floral, fruity flavors that are cut by crisp Roussanne is ripe and fleshy, boasting round notes of acidity. It is a bright, light and fruity sparkler, with just a melon, peach, pineapple and lemon custard. There’s a LOIRE touch of sweetness. Wilson Daniels Ltd. —R.V. soft, herbal accent of white flower and citrus zest that graces the lively finish. Drink now. Frederick Wildman Chateau Moncontour 2010 Cuvée Prédi- abv: 12% Price: $13 & Sons, Ltd. —L.B. lection (Vouvray). This sparkling Vouvray has 92 Le Grand Courtage NV Grande Cuvée abv: 13% Price: $14 weight and richness, balanced by intense acidity and a 83 Brut Rosé (Vin Mousseux). This is smooth, crisp green-salad texture. Lemon zest and quince fla- soft and seemingly sweet despite its brut designation. Gérard Bertrand 2010 Grenache-Vermen- vors add the fruit element. It will benefit from another Strawberry and candied sugar notes combine with a lift 86 tino (Languedoc). Aromas of waxy apple skin two years in bottle. USA Wine West. Editors’ Choice. of acidity. Le Grand Courtage. —R.V. and white melon rind lead the nose, though a soft lemon —R.V. abv: 12% Price: $20 oil accent unfolds in the back after the wine warms. The abv: 12% Price: $20 mouthfeel is round yet lifted, with ripe melon and sweet Royal Muscato NV White (Vin Mousseux). citrus flavors that are balanced by a good acidic cut to Château Gaudrelle NV Vigneau Brut 82 There is a curious imbalance here between the finish. Drink now. Gerard Bertrand USA. —L.B. 90 (Vouvray). Just off-dry, this almond- and ap- Muscat’s natural honey and very insistent acidity. The abv: 13% Price: $18 ple-flavored wine achieves a fine balance of crispness result is a wine that wants to be fresh, sweet and fruity, La Cave de Pomerols 2011 HB Picpoul and richness. There is just a touch of honey, intertwined but doesn’t fully succeed. Patriarche USA. —R.V. de Pinet (Coteaux du Languedoc). Light with delicious citrusy acidity. Kysela Père et Fils. —R.V. abv: 11% Price: $8 86 and young, this is a straightforward but enjoyable se- abv: 12.5% Price: $20 lection that would be an ideal match for light fare such as grilled chicken salads or flake. Apple flesh, nectarine Chateau Moncontour 2010 Tête de Cu- LANGUEDOC- and sweet citrus oil aromas and flavors appear on the vée Brut (Vouvray). Nut and toast aromas ROUSSILLON 90 nose and palate, while the short finish is infused with lead to a smooth palate, with creamed apple and deli- a flavor of green melon rind. Kysela Père et Fils. Best cate orange zest flavors. Behind the crisp acidity, there LANGUEDOC WHITES Buy. —L.B. is a mature feel, giving roundness to the delicious after- Château Maris 2010 Brama Grenache abv: 12.5% Price: $10 taste. USA Wine West. —R.V. 91 Gris (Minervois La Liviniere). Notes of abv: 12.5% Price: $17 toasted apple skins, wood-grilled peaches, lightly dried Gérard Bertrand 2010 Picpoul de Pinet. grass and sweet spices lead the nose of this attractive 85 Notes of red apple rind and orange oil lead the Château Gaudrelle NV Vigneau Brut (Cré- white and continue through onto the medium-weight bouquet of this straightforward quaff. The bright palate 88 mant de Loire). While the 50% palate. It is ripe and fruit-forward, with rounded fla- offers more intense citrus flavors, leading nicely onto in this blend produces acidity and a tight apple flavor, vors of melon, pear and apple flesh, but it’s all lifted the brisk, clean finish. Drink now. Gerard Bertrand the 50% Chardonnay rounds the wine out with warm by marked, brisk acidity that keeps the finish simulta- USA. —L.B. abv: 12.5% Price: $20 peach and sweet pear. It is ripe and full in the mouth. neously bright and long. Drink now–2015. Verity Wine Kysela Père et Fils. —R.V. Partners. —L.B. abv: 12.5% Price: $20 abv: 14% Price: $42 ROUSSILLON WHITES Domaine de la Perruche NV La Grande Château des Karantes 2010 La Clape Domaine du Clos des Fées 2010 Vieilles 87 Cuvée (Saumur). Crisp apple, grapefruit and 88 Blanc (Coteaux du Languedoc). This is a 89 Vignes Grenache Blanc (Vin de Pays des almond notes give this wine great vitality and life. With refreshing and somewhat complex wine, with layers of Côtes Catalanes). The delicate bouquet offers dainty its light, bright texture and fresh feel, it’s a perfect apéri- underripe peach, green fig and melon rind mixing with aromas of red apple and melon, with a slight thread of garrigue accents. There’s a grassy accent to the palate, tif. Demontoux Fine Wines. —R.V. baking spice throughout. The mouthfeel is full yet fo- with a hint of lime pith on the solid finish. Eagle Eye cused, with a distinct mineral streak and a clean citrus abv: 12.5% Price: $20 Brands. —L.B. cut to the ripe fruit flavors. It ends with a long, softly abv: 13% Price: $29 spiced finish. Dalbavie Selection LLC. —L.B. Domaine de Vaugondy NV Brut (Vou- abv: 14.5% Price: $35 vray). 87 This emphasizes the dry acidity of Chen- Domaine de Malavieille 2010 Châ- in Blanc, while maintaining an attractive lift of crisp ap- 88 teau Malavieille Alliance (Coteaux du Domaine de l’Edre 2010 Carrément ple and citrus. It’s a lively, fragrant wine with a bright Languedoc). This light and easy Roussanne-domi- 86 Blanc (Côtes du Roussillon). This blend of and fruity feel. Ready to drink. Metropolis Wine Mer- nant blend (with 10% Grenache Blanc and 5% Viog- Grenache Blanc, Grenache Gris, Roussanne and Maca­ chants, Inc. —R.V. nier) beams with bright notes of clementine, pineapple, beau is a tad closed and shy now, but should develop abv: 12.5% Price: $NA guava and a touch of melon rind on the nose and palate. more intensity with time. Peach skin, white melon and

WineMag.com | 31 orange notes are present on the nose and mouth, and um-weight palate and spices up the clean finish. Verity Laurent Miquel 2010 Père et Fils Syrah- are dusted with a lovely sweet-spice accent on the fin- Wine Partners. —L.B. 87 Grenache Syrah-Grenache (Pays d’Oc). ish, but the mouthfeel comes across as slightly flabby. abv: 14.5% Price: $25 Blueberry, blackberry and boysenberry all abound on Hand Picked Selections. —L.B. the nose and palate of this easy-pleasing and accessible abv: 14.5% Price: $43 wine. Fine tannins and medium acidity create an ap- LA CLAPE proachable structure, while hints of crushed violet and Domaine Piquemal 2010 Les Terres Gril- Château des Karantes 2009 La Clape chocolate add richness to the finish. Laurent Miquel. lées (Côtes du Roussillon). Soft aromas of 86 Rouge (Coteaux du Languedoc). This Best Buy. —L.B. talcum and crushed white flower mingle with tropical 90 blend of 60% Syrah, 30% Mourvèdre and 10% Gre- abv: 13.5% Price: $10 notes of pineapple core and guava. Strong melon and nache is ripe and jammy, with intense aromas of black- pear flavors flood the palate, with a hint of grassy herba- Marius 2010 Grenache-Syrah (Pays berry and raspberry preserves, baking spice, chocolate ceousness that opens up on the medium-length finish. d’Oc). The bouquet of this red blend starts and a touch of pepper. Well balanced with a slightly 87 Beaune Imports. —L.B. off with medium-intense aromas of dried red cherry creamy texture and medium tannins, the fruit domi- abv: 14% Price: $24 and raspberry, but transitions into secondary accents of nates the palate and lingers long onto the finish. Drink sweet smoke and soft spice. The medium-weight pal- now–2015. Eagle Eye Brands. —L.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $29 ate is balanced and straightforward. Drink now. Terlato MINERVOIS Wines International. —L.B. Château Maris 2009 Les Amandiers (Mi- Gérard Bertrand 2009 Grand Terroir abv: 13.5% Price: $13 nervois La Liviniere). This is a stunning Syrah--Mourvèdre (La Clape). 93 90 Val Auclair 2010 Les Barras (Vallée du wine that’s loaded with flavor and complexity. The vi- Loads of dark, jammy black-fruit flavors are graced with Paradis). There’s a slightly funky edge to this brant bouquet boasts assertive, fruity aromas of kirsch, vanilla bean and sweet spice accents. Lush and mouth- 86 Carignan-Syrah blend, with gamy and herbal streaks to blueberry and blackberry, alongside notes of iris, dark filling without feeling overdone, the palate boasts in- the bright red-berry aromas. The palate is a bit rich- chocolate and a touch of sweet tobacco. The palate is tensely concentrated flavors of cherry and plum, with er, with darker flavors of cherry and blackberry leaf full and ripe, with powerful, dense black-fruit and berry a touch of black pepper that unfolds on the slightly that carry through to the medium-length finish. Hand flavors that are laced with a hint of cream and sweet chewy, medium-length finish. Drink now–2015. Gerard Picked Selections. —L.B. cocoa. Firm yet well-integrated tannins grip the long Bertrand USA. Editors’ Choice. —L.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $25 finish. Decadent now, but should hold nicely through abv: 14% Price: $22 2017. Verity Wine Partners. —L.B. Vignobles Boudinaud 2009 Grange des abv: 14.5% Price: $150 Gérard Bertrand 2010 Grand Terroir Syr- Rouquette Syrah-Grenache (Vin de Pays ah-Carignan-Mourvèdre (La Clape). This 86 89 d’Oc). Glimmers of game and pepper infuse the red- Château Maris 2009 Les Planels Syrah fruit-forward selection is brimming with ripe aromas fruit-driven core of this wine. Plum, raspberry and (Minervois La Liviniere). This is a dense and and flavors of raspberry, cherry and plum, with love- 91 cherry, dusted with notes of baking spice, flourish on heady wine, with powerful aromas of forest berry, gar- ly supporting accents of game, savory spice and cured the palate. Medium weight, with dusty tannins, this is rigue and purple flower that mingle seamlessly with the meat that provide interesting complexity and layers of reminiscent of crushed dried berries. Robert Kacher blackberry and raspberry fruit core. A hint of smoky flavor throughout. It’s mouthfilling and dense, with me- Selections. —L.B. game adds depth to the palate, which evolves in lay- dium tannins and a long, spicy finish reminiscent of pipe abv: 13% Price: $15 ers from notes of lush fruit flesh to tannic skins, then tobacco. Gerard Bertrand USA. —L.B. offering notes of savory herbs and, finally, a raw cocoa abv: 14% Price: $20 Arrogant Frog 2010 Lily Pad Noir Pinot powder flavor. The texture is like crushed velvet. Verity Noir (Pays d’Oc). For full review see page 14. Wine Partners. —L.B. Château des Karantes 2010 Bergerie 85 Best Buy. abv: 14.5% Price: $45 Rouge La Clape (Coteaux du Langued- 87 abv: 13% Price: $9 oc). There’s a nice mélange of aromas and flavors to this Hecht & Bannier 2009 Minervois. Attrac- wine, as hints of dried purple flowers mingle with fruity La Forge Estate 2010 Unfiltered Pinot tive red-plum and berry fruit aromas and fla- notes of brambly forest berry and black plum. Accents 90 Noir (Pays d’Oc). Light aromas of red cherry vors lay the framework, while supporting accents of gar- of leather, smoke and graphite add depth to the palate, 85 and raspberry can be discovered upon deep nosing, but rigue, pepper and leathery spice add depth and charac- but the finish is a bit warm. Eagle Eye Brands. —L.B. the fresh garrigue, tree bark and raw cocoa nib notes ter. A lush fruitiness floods the palate, but is countered abv: 14% Price: $15 steal the show. A hint of vanilla-strawberry sweetens up with a mineral tang and a touch of smoke on the linger- the close. Drink now. Palm Bay International. —L.B. ing finish. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —L.B. abv: NA Price: $11 abv: 14.5% Price: $25 VIN DE PAYS François Lurton 2010 Les Hauts de Ja- Labouré-Roi 2010 Les Sangliers Pinot Gérard Bertrand 2009 Syrah-Carignan neil Syrah-Grenache (Pays d’Oc). This Noir (Pays d’Oc). The fruit isn’t the star of (Minervois). Flavors of blackberry and blue- 88 85 89 wine smells ripe and sweet right off the bat, with deca- this wine; instead, intense notes of forest floor and cola berry compote lead the nose of this dense wine, fol- dent aromas and flavors of raspberry sauce, berry coulis spice dominate the nose and palate. Sure, the red berry lowed by whiffs of bittersweet chocolate and peppery and all-, laced with hints of licorice and and cherry flavors are there, but they’re just hanging in spice. Medium weight and lush on the palate, it has mocha. The mouthfeel is round and lush, with medi- the background of this bright yet herbaceous selection. good acidic lift that keeps the finish clean and vibrant. um tannins and a lasting finish. Vintus LLC.Best Buy. Palm Bay International. —L.B. Gerard Bertrand USA. —L.B. —L.B. abv: 13% Price: $12 abv: 13.5% Price: $20 abv: 13.5% Price: $13 Le Grand Noir 2010 Pinot Noir (Pays Château Maris 2009 Continuité de Na- François Lurton 2010 Terra Sana Syrah d’Oc). A soft earthy character adds depth to ture Carignan (Minervois La Liviniere). 85 86 (Pays d’Oc). There’s a hint of caramel-like the strawberry and rhubarb fruit aromas and flavors. The aromas of this wine are slightly high-toned, offer- 87 sweetness to the lush dark-fruit center of this Syrah. The palate is clean and bright, with a cocoa-dusted ing bright notes of apple skin, tart cherry and small red- Dense, jammy blackberry and cherry flavors continue red-berry fruit finish. Prestige Wine Group. Best Buy. berry fruit. A touch of black pepper livens up the medi- on the palate, with an overall round mouthfeel and a —L.B. softly spiced finish. Drink up. Vintus LLC. —L.B. abv: 12.5% Price: $10 abv: 13.5% Price: $14

32 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | DECEMBER 2012 Tortoise Creek 2010 Les Oliviers Pinot center stage on the palate, but it’s backed by a sweet Casal do Paço Padreiro 2011 Aphros Ten 85 Noir (Pays d’Oc). An attractive, earthy ac- spice flavor and tea-like astringency that lingers though 87 Loureiro (Vinho Verde). This is light—the cent of forest floor complements the brambly berry the finish. Gerard Bertrand USA. —L.B. Ten in the name refers to its alcohol level—dry, crisp and cherry fruit core. The approachable palate is easy abv: 13.5% Price: $20 and fragrantly fresh. It is citrus dominant and delicious- to like, with flavors of blueberry and baking spice that ly refreshing—a wine that livens up the palate. Michael remain through the close. Drink now. Winesellers Ltd. Skurnik Wines. —R.V. —L.B. PORTUGAL abv: 10% Price: $14 abv: 13% Price: $12 VINHO VERDE Casal do Paço Padreiro 2008 Aphros Gilles Louvet 2010 O Made from Organic 86 Loureiro Reserva Bruto (Vinho Verde). 84 Grapes Pinot Noir (Pays d’Oc). There’s an Casa do Valle 2011 Grand Escolha (Vinho This crisp, bright sparkler gets depth of flavor from the Verde). overall dustiness to this wine, almost like a combination 90 For a Vinho Verde, this is rich and full Loureiro grape. It has a taut texture that makes this of talcum powder and dried, crushed plums and berries. bodied. Its creamy texture is packed with ripe, creamed fruity, fresh wine a perfect match for food. Michael Lean and slightly tart on the palate, it has a taut struc- pear and grapefruit flavors. The acidity seams effort- Skurnik Wines. —R.V. ture and a clean but short finish. Drink now. MHW, Ltd. lessly into the full texture. It could age, but it’s ready to abv: 12% Price: $23 —L.B. drink now. Massanois Imports. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $19 abv: 13.5% Price: $15 Conde Vilar 2011 Branco (Vinho Verde). This is classic Vinho Verde from the Quinta das Casal do Paço Padreiro 2011 Aphros 86 Arcas estate. It balances crispness with light sweetness Loureiro (Vinho Verde). OTHER LANGUEDOC 90 The Loureiro grape and sparkle. Acidity and an apple-skin texture give it a shows best in the Lima valley where Casal Paço Pa- REDS dancing quality. Screwcap. The Vintner Group. Best dreiro’s vineyards are situated. Lees aging has produced Domaine de Baron’Arques 2009 Red Buy. —R.V. a wine that is full and fruity, with ripe apricot and peach abv: 11% Price: $11 89 (Limoux). Pretty notes of purple flowers lead flavors as well as crisp acidity. Michael Skurnik Wines. the bouquet, with a supporting core of brambly black —R.V. J. Portugal Ramos 2011 Lima Loureiro berry and cherry. Spicy suggestions of dark chocolate, abv: 12% Price: $18 (Vinho Verde). licorice root and black pepper add depth to the palate, 86 Produced in the Lima Valley, home of the Loureiro grape, this is a light, floral offer- while a spicy cocoa flavor lingers well through the medi- Casal do Paço Padreiro 2011 Daphne ing. It’s dry yet soft, with fine, crisp acidity, apple and um-length finish. BNP Distributing. —L.B. Loureiro (Vinho Verde). Floral and aromatic, 90 pear fruits, and a refreshing, fruity finish. Screwcap. abv: 15% Price: $NA this is a rich Vinho Verde that also keeps its cool char- Winebow. —R.V. acter. It has lemon and lime flavors, with ripe acidity Domaine de Baron’Arques 2009 La Capi- abv: 10.5% Price: $11 that fills the palate with intense notes of pear and green telle du Domaine de Baron’Arques (Lim- 89 apple. It’s a style of Vinho Verde that can age for a year. oux). This takes some time to fully express itself, but Casal do Paço Padreiro NV Aphros Vin- Michael Skurnik Wines. —R.V. once it does open up, decadent notes of dried purple 85 hão Super-Reserva Bruto (Vinho Verde). abv: 12% Price: $NA flower, garrigue, blackberry and black cherry all abound Red sparkling wine is always an acquired taste, especial- ly when it is a tannic, tart version like this. But this is as on the nose and palate. With a creamy texture like Casal do Paço Padreiro 2009 Afros Bran- crushed velvet and a long, brambly finish, this is a crowd fine as a red sparkling Vinho Verde can be. Pair it with co Loureiro (Vinho Verde). This rare exam- pleaser with good depth and complexity. BNP Distrib- 89 sardines. Michael Skurnik Wines. —R.V. ple of a mature Vinho Verde has an oxidative charac- uting. —L.B. abv: 12% Price: $26 ter—not at all unpleasant—which gives it a smooth tex- abv: 15% Price: $NA ture, along with a ripe almond note and firm acidity. The Dao Sul 2011 Xadrez (Vinho Verde). This Gérard Bertrand 2010 Grenache-Cari- result is a food wine in the style of a mature Sauvignon 84 fruity selection has light fizz and soft, gently gnan (Fitou). Intense and concentrated, with Blanc. Michael Skurnik Wines. —R.V. sweet flavors of citrus and grapefruit. With its crisp ap- 89 abv: 12% Price: $NA deep and full aromas and flavors of black plum, mashed ple edge, this makes for a great apéritif. Aidil Wines & blackberry and soft cassis that’s laced with a hint of vio- Inc. Best Buy. —R.V. Dao Sul 2011 Quinta de Lourosa (Vinho let. Hearty yet balanced in the mouth, this has moderate abv: 9.5% Price: $7 Verde). tannins and medium acidity, providing a solid structure 88 This is a bone-dry, piercingly fresh and a decadent chocolate-flavored finish. Gerard Ber- wine. It has tense acidity and a mineral texture that trand USA. —L.B. would make it delicious as an accompaniment to sea- DOURO WHITES abv: 14% Price: $20 food. The wine is crisp, refreshing and bright. Aidil Wines & Liquor Inc. Best Buy. —R.V. Conceito Vinhos 2011 Conceito Branco Gérard Bertrand 2009 Grenache-Cari- abv: 11% Price: $8 91 (Douro). This rich, wood-aged wine is bal- 88 gnan (Fitou). This comes off a bit tight and anced and stylish. It shows the great potential for white rustic, with astringent notes of black plum and cherry Borges 2011 Quinta de Simaens (Vinho wine in the Douro, with its panoply of flavors ranging skin, tea leaf, black olive and licorice root. A cigar to- 87 Verde). Simaens has produced a ripe style from creamed apple to white peach, with a hint of herb. bacco accent unfolds on the palate and marries harmo- of wine here. Apple and rich citrus flavors add a deli- It’s a fruity offering that will age for at least 3–4 years. niously with the black-fruit core, while peppery spice cious touch to tropical fruit flavors. This wine is fit for Vin de Terra Imports, Inc. —R.V. lingers through the medium-length finish. Gerard Ber- drinking in the next few months. Dionysos Imports Inc. abv: 13% Price: $NA trand USA. —L.B. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $21 abv: 12% Price: $13 Conceito Vinhos 2010 Conceito Branco 91 (Douro). This needs to be decanted before Gérard Bertrand 2009 Syrah-Grenache Casa do Valle 2011 Vinho Verde. This is drinking: It takes its time to show off its flavors of rich 88 (Languedoc). In keeping with the brand’s 87 a ripe, full wine, retaining Vinho Verde’s clas- yellow fruit, textured apple and grapefruit, along with a overall style, this is another ripe and lush offering from sic taut acidity, but rounded out with sweet apple and tense acidity. It is both rich and taut, a fine balancing act Gérard Bertrand. The bouquet floods the nostrils with lime flavors. It’s food friendly and would make for a fine that is still developing. Give this another three years in intense notes of dark berries and cherry, all soaked with apéritif. Massanois Imports. Best Buy. —R.V. the cellar. Vin de Terra Imports, Inc. —R.V. vanilla cream and sweet oak accents. The fruit takes abv: 12.5% Price: $10 abv: 13% Price: $NA

WineMag.com | 33 Muxagat 2010 Os Xistos Altos Rabigato Symington Family Estates 2011 Altano Fitapreta Vinhos 2011 Branco da Talha 90 (Douro). Grown in the high schist soils of the 87 Branco (Douro). There is an attractive floral 90 (Alentejano). This blend of Antão Vaz and upper Douro Valley, this is a firm wine with a mineral and fragrant quality about this wine, along with a light Roupeiro has attractive touches of spice and toast ac- edge, bearing ripe peach and apple flavors. It’s finely herbaceousness. It is light, though with a good intensity companying its warm yellow and white fruits. It feels structured, rich in texture, and finishes with pure, crisp, of fruit and a tang of citrus. For drinking now or over rich and needs at least two years to age. Winebridge Im- clean acidity. Winebow. —R.V. the next 2–3 years. Vineyard Brands. Best Buy. —R.V. ports. —R.V. abv: 12% Price: $NA abv: 12.5% Price: $11 abv: NA Price: $30

Quinta de la Rosa 2011 Branco (Douro). Quinta de la Rosa 2011 Dourosa Bran- Herdade do Esporão 2011 V Verdelho 90 With its wood-aged character, which produces 86 co (Douro). High-elevation vineyards produce 90 (Alentejano). An increasingly impressive toast and cinnamon flavors, this is serious, complex and the fruit for this crisp, herbaceous wine. It has flavors Verdelho with each new vintage, this is the producer’s definitely fit for aging. The white estate wine of La Rosa of ripe gooseberry and lime, with a light hint of nut- best yet. It has warm, ripe apricot and pear flavors that is ripe and creamy, its peach and citrus notes already meg, immediately appealing in its fruitiness. Winesell- are intense and generous. The soft, rich texture is cut well integrated. Keep for 2–3 years. Winesellers Ltd. ers Ltd. —R.V. by nervy acidity that gives the wine fine balance. Age —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $16 for one year. Esporão Wines & Olive Oils. Best Buy. abv: 13.5% Price: $26 —R.V. Borges 2011 Lello Branco (Douro). This abv: 13.5% Price: $13 Quinta do Vallado 2011 Branco Reserva 84 pretty, warm wine is touched with caramel and 89 (Douro). Soft and fruity, with a round texture, yellow fruit flavors. It gets a kick from crisp lemon zest. Quinta do Quetzal 2010 Guadalupe Se- this shows attractive melon and quince flavors, bearing Drink in the coming months. Peninsula Beverage. Best 89 lection Branco (Alentejano). From south- a hint of bright acidity at the back. It has weight, an oily Buy. —R.V. ern Alentejano vineyards, this is a warm wine, yet one texture and lemon freshness on the finish. Quintessen- abv: 13% Price: $8 that retains the right amount of freshness to balance its tial Wines. —R.V. toast flavor. A hint of mango ripeness lends a round, de- abv: 13.5% Price: $50 liciously full feel. Laurel Importers. —R.V. DÃO WHITES abv: 13% Price: $NA Conceito Vinhos 2010 Contraste Bran- Dao Sul 2011 Casa de Santar Branco co (Douro). This smooth, rounded wine has Terra d’Alter 2011 Viognier (Alentejano). 88 Reserva (Dão). This aromatic white is laden touches of wood aging, along with a herbaceous char- 90 This floral wine stongly shows Viognier’s hall- with toast and white fruit notes. It is rich and smooth, 89 acter just now beginning to soften and fill out. It has mark apricot flavor. As one of a series of varetal wines the toast character is well-blended with the melon, pear a light touch of spice along with apple and tangerine from Terra d’Alter, it has great fruitiness. It is nicely and lime flavors. Its fruitiness makes it attractive. It notes. Ready to drink. Vin de Terra Imports, Inc. —R.V. touched with acidity and bears a round texture. Age for should be aged for at least two years. HGC Imports. abv: 13% Price: $NA a few months before drinking. Artisan Vines Distribut- —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $NA ing. —R.V. Muxagat 2011 Mux Branco (Douro). This abv: 13.5% Price: $17 88 crisp, herbaceous selection is a blend of Rabi- Dao Sul 2011 Cabriz Colheita Seleccio- gato and other rarer varieties. It has a citrus note and Terra d’Alter 2010 Reserva (Alentejano). nada (Dão). This round and smooth wine has lively acidity, with deep apple and pear flavors. There’s 86 This intensely fruity wine is full of tropical fruit apricot, peach and pear flavors, which create a soft tex- 89 a tangy, steely edge that suggests that the wine will age. notes, with delicious peach and apricot accents. Its ture and attractive acidity. It has a warm, rich feel. This Winebow. —R.V. acidity is juicy and fragrant, filling out its crispness with wine is for food. FJN Fine Wines LLC. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $NA abv: 12.5% Price: $NA almost New World-fruit flavors. Artisan Vines Distrib- uting. —R.V. PV Vinhos 2010 Egle (Douro). This is light Borges 2011 Meia Encosta (Dão). This abv: 13.5% Price: $20 and bright, with crisp acidity and the fruitiness 88 wine is very soft, rounded and gentle. A touch of an attractive, early-drinking wine. Michael Skurnik 84 Fitapreta Vinhos 2011 Fitapreta Branco of light pepper accompanies melon and creamed pear Wines. —R.V. (Alentejano). This full-bodied white is rich flavors. It’s a good apéritif wine and it can be paired with 88 abv: 13% Price: $17 and creamy. The dominating wood and ripe apricot amuse-bouche. Peninsula Beverage. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $8 notes are cut with pineapple-tinged acidity to produce a Conceito Vinhos 2011 Contraste Branco round yet clean finish. Winebridge Imports. —R.V. 87 (Douro). This grassy, herbaceous wine is crisp abv: NA Price: $19 and refreshing. It has citrus and orange zest notes, with ALENTEJANO WHITES texture coming from its depth of flavor and its mineral Terra d’Alter 2011 Alvarinho (Alenteja- tang. Vin de Terra Imports, Inc. —R.V. Quinta do Quetzal 2010 Reserva Bran- 88 no). This is a creamy, intensely , with abv: 13% Price: $NA 91 co (Alentejano). A nutmeg aroma leads to a lime and tropical fruit flavors, merely hinting at a min- warm, ripe and spicy palate. Fermented and aged in erally structure. It’s delicious and ready to drink now. Quevedo 2011 Oscar’s Branco (Douro). wood, it is full of pineapple and peach flavors, touched Artisan Vines Distributing. —R.V. 87 Soft and herbaceous, this is a warm wine, its only lightly by acidity. At this stage, this fine wine is abv: 12.5% Price: $17 acidity leading to apricot and pineapple flavors. The ap- young and needs 2–3 years to show its potential fully. ple skin texture and the tangy final acidity make it crisp. Laurel Importers. —R.V. Terra d’Alter 2011 Verdelho (Alentejano). P.R. Grisley Company. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA 88 Lightly spicy aromas give this an exotic feel. At abv: 12% Price: $12 the same time, there is plenty of crisp, citrusy acidity, Dao Sul 2010 Monte da Cal Vinha de along with a rounded melon texture. The wine is full- Quinta das Bandeiras 2011 Passagem 90 Saturno (Alentejano). Produced only in top bodied, concentrated and will be ready to drink in six 87 Branco (Douro). Full and fat, this has an oily, vintages, this is a ripe, wood-aged wine. The fragrant months. Artisan Vines Distributing. —R.V. ripe fruit texture—a sign of its warmth and richness. It’s aromas of its fruit are balanced by toast and spice. It is abv: 13.5% Price: $17 a food style of wine, with apricot and pear flavors that warm, ripe and complex, a wine that could age for an- are round and generous. Drink now. —R.V. other 2–3 years. Aidil Wines & Liquor Inc. —R.V. Terra d’Alter 2011 Arinto (Alentejano). abv: 13.5% Price: $NA abv: 13.5% Price: $28 87 One of a series of varietal wines from Terra d’Alter, this Arinto is full of the grape’s typical floral,

34 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | DECEMBER 2012 fragrant character. It has lemon and lime flavors that sense of structure and a fine, elegant texture. Palm Bay are laced with acidity. It’s delicious, fruity and ready to OTHER WHITE WINES International. —R.V. drink. Artisan Vines Distributing. —R.V. Dao Sul 2011 Quinta do Encontro Encon- abv: 13.5% Price: $NA abv: 13.5% Price: $17 91 tro I (Bairrada). This is serious, complex and age worthy. It balances wood-aged toast with peach, Companhia das Quintas 2011 Prova Ré- Granadeiro 2011 Tapada do Barão Bran- apricot and crisp lime-juice flavors. From one of Bairra- 87 gia Arinto (Lisboa). The vineyards of Quinta 86 co (Alentejano). Very ripe and rich, this has da’s top estates, this is worth keeping for 3–4 years. Aidil da Romeira in cool-climate Bucelas are the source of a smooth, oily texture, with a perfumed fruit character Wines & Liquor Inc. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. this elegant, fragrant wine. It has fine acidity, and apple and just a hint of acidity. The wine feels fat and is not for abv: 13.5% Price: $28 and pear fruits. The Arinto grape provides a lift of fresh- aging. Vinos Unico. —R.V. ness on the finish. Importo LLC. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA Quinta do Boição 2009 Special Selec- abv: 12.5% Price: $NA 91 tion Old Vineyards Arinto (Bucelas). This Quinta do Quetzal 2011 Guadalupe Bran- is a ripe, wood-aged wine made from Arinto, the local Companhia das Quintas 2011 Quinta do co (Alentejano). 86 This very fruity wine oozes grape of Bucelas. Rich and full, it has a touch of lemon 87 Cardo Siria (Beira Interior). This tangy, fresh apricot and elegant peach flavors. It’s crisp and fra- that combines well with its tropical fruit flavors. It has lemon-scented wine has a fine citrus flavor and a min- grant, a fine, ready-to-drink blend of Antão Vaz, Rou- fine concentration and is ready to drink. Prestige Wine eral touch due to its vineyard’s high altitude. It is zesty peiro and Arinto. Laurel Importers. —R.V. Group. —R.V. and bright in character, with fresh final acidity. Importo abv: 13% Price: $NA abv: 13.5% Price: $NA LLC. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA Terra d’Alter 2011 Branco (Alentejano). Herdade do Esporão 2011 Esporão Herbaceous and crisp, this is a tangy wine, driv- 86 Reserva Branco (Alentejo). Fermented in Valle Pradinhos 2011 Branco (Transmon- en by lemon zest and fresh acidity. It’s cool, clean, bright 90 oak, this is a big, bold and ripe wine made from grapes 86 tano). An exotic blend of Gewürztraminer, and fruity. Ready to drink now. Artisan Vines Distribut- sourced from the volcanic soil of Esporão. It has a Riesling and Malvasia Fina, this is a spicy, floral and ing. —R.V. creamy texture that’s spiced with toast and tempered lively surprise from northeastern Portugal. With light abv: 13% Price: $15 with acidity. Its texture is smooth and rounded, and it’s acidity and a citrus flavor, it is ready to drink now. Aidil Wines & Liquor Inc. —R.V. Cortes de Cima 2011 Sauvignon Blanc packed with ripe fruit. It’s a great wine to drink now, but abv: 13.5% Price: $NA 85 (Alentejano). This is a soft, tropical-fruit- it will age over several years. Esporão Wines & Olive Oils. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. driven Sauvignon Blanc made in a warm-climate style. Delaforce 2011 Alvarinho (Duriense). abv: 14.5% Price: $20 It has a clean, fresh character, with an apricot note and 85 The historic Port house of Delaforce has now a soft touch of orange zest. It’s fragrant, fruity and ready Conde Vilar 2011 Alvarinho (Minho). This launched its own Douro table wines, and this Alvarinho to drink. Tri-Vin Imports. —R.V. is soft and fruity. It has a creamy initial texture followed abv: 13% Price: $NA 89 full, ripe wine balances ripe melon and pear fla- vors with the crispness characteristic of this northern by touches of vanilla and quince. This is not for aging, so drink it now. Signature Imports. —R.V. Fitapreta Vinhos 2011 Sexy Branco region. It is cool, stylish and food friendly. It’s ready to abv: 12.5% Price: $17 85 (Alentejano). This ripe, soft wine features a drink, but it could age 1–2 years. The Vintner Group. Best Buy. —R.V. ripe white-fruit flavor with an attractive acidity that rolls Falua 2011 Tagus Creek Chardonnay and abv: 13% Price: $11 around the mouth. With its light acidity and a hint of 85 Fernão Pires (Tejo). Round and soft, this fea- sweetness at the end, this is a delicious, fruity apéritif Dao Sul 2011 Quinta do Encontro Q do E tures white fruit flavors filled out by a touch of smo- wine. Laurel Importers. —R.V. kiness and light acidity. It’s gentle, dry and full bodied. abv: NA Price: $16 89 Bical (Bairrada). This is a lightly wood-aged wine, with melon and pear flavors that are rounded by a Screwcap. Aidil Wines & Liquor Inc. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $NA Herdade do Esporão 2011 Alandra Bran- toast character. Taut orange zest and lime notes balance 85 co (Alentejano). Bright and fruity, this has a this softness. The aftertaste is fragrant, crisp and warm. ripe applesauce flavor that’s cut with citrusy acidity. It’s Aidil Wines & Liquor Inc. —R.V. ROSÉS a great apéritif, with a soft texture and refreshing finish. abv: 12.5% Price: $NA Esporão Wines & Olive Oils. Best Buy. —R.V. Terra d’Alter 2011 Rosé (Alentejano). abv: 12.5% Price: $8 Quinta de Foz de Arouce 2010 Branco 87 This crisp, lightly spicy wine has attractive red 89 Cerceal (Beiras). This ripe wine is dominated fruit. It’s refreshing yet still full and fruity. It’s bright and Herdade do Esporão 2011 Monte Velho by wood character. The Cerceal grape has a round, soft touched by almond and rose hip flavors. Artisan Vines 85 Branco (Alentejano). This is a particularly feel, with spice notes balancing the apricot and peach Distributing. —R.V. successful white Monte Velho. It is rich and creamy, full flavors. Age for 2–3 years. Winebow. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $15 of ripe apple and refreshing acidity in equal measure. abv: 13% Price: $50 Fruity and fragrant, it is ready to drink and will be deli- Casa do Valle 2011 Rosé (Vinho Verde). cious this summer. Esporão Wines & Olive Oils. Best Dao Sul 2011 Quinta de Lourosa (Min- 86 Pale red in color, this fruity rosé was one of the Buy. —R.V. 88 ho). This full-bodied selection hails from the originals in the current pink Vinho Verde trend. It is abv: 13.5% Price: $10 same region as Vinho Verde, offering creamy apricot still one of the best. It has a lively, ripe strawberry note and ripe white-fruit notes. It has great depth of flavor, accompanied by a touch of caramel and bright acidity. Monte da Penha 2011 Montefino Branco with toast and spice tones as well as fragrant acidity. Massanois Imports. Best Buy. —R.V. 84 (Alentejano). This lively, fruity wine has fine Aidil Wines & Liquor Inc. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $10 acidity that’s smoothed by creamy pear and green plum abv: 12.5% Price: $14 flavors. There is a touch of sweetness—perhaps some José Maria da Fonseca 2011 Colecção residual sugar—from grapes that were harvested when José Maria da Fonseca 2011 Colecção 86 Privada Moscatel Roxo (Setubal). With its very ripe. Drink over the next few months. Vino . 88 Privada Verdelho (Setubal). Full and ripe, perfumed aroma, this is an immediately attractive rosé —R.V. this balances round pear and peach flavors with intense that’s made from the pink-skinned Moscatel Roxo. Its abv: 12.5% Price: $15 acidity. It is a beautifully fruity wine, one that also has a flavors are crisp; its acidity is touched by yellow peach

WineMag.com | 35 and rosewater flavors. Drink now. Palm Bay Interna- This serious, structured offering should be aged for 4–5 Quinta do Sagrado 2007 Red (Douro). tional. —R.V. years. Quintessential Wines. Cellar Selection. —R.V. 91 This is made in open stone lagars, and it bears abv: 12% Price: $NA abv: 14.5% Price: $60 a Port-like richness while retaining the firm structure of a Douro red. It is big, fruity, and firmly dry. Age for Casal do Paço Padreiro 2011 Aphros Conceito Vinhos 2010 Conceito (Douro). 4–5 years. Michael Skurnik Wines. Cellar Selection. 84 Rosé Vinhão (Vinho Verde). The Vinhão’s 92 Firmly tannic and still dominated by new wood, —R.V. red juice gives this rosé its orange-pink color. It also pro- this is dense and brooding. It has the typically mineral abv: 13.5% Price: $NA duces the high acidity that marks this as a wine from the feel of a fine Douro wine. Concentrated, brambly fruits cool north. Light and fruity, it’s ready to drink now. Mi- and a powerful structure make this a wine that needs Symington Family Estates 2009 Vale do chael Skurnik Wines. —R.V. to age for at least five years. Vin de Terra Imports, Inc. 91 Bomfim Reserva (Douro). For full review abv: 10.5% Price: $NA —R.V. see page 9. Editors’ Choice. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA abv: 13.5% Price: $25 Conde Vilar 2011 Rosé Espadeiro (Vinho 84 Verde). This bright pink wine is lightly sweet Quinta dos Murças 2008 Reserva (Dou- Velhas 2009 Mouro Basto Reser- and full of strawberry flavor. It is crisp, clean and fra- 92 ro). This wine, the first vintage produced by the 90 va (Douro). This is serious and solid, full of grant—delicious as an apéritif. Screwcap. The Vintner Esporão winemaking team, gives fine, elegant Douro rich black fruit and dense tannins. Its weight brings out Group. —R.V. tannins along with new wood and rich flavors of damson intense fruitiness and balancing acidity. Made mostly abv: 11% Price: $NA and blackberry. It is structured, powerful and very age from Touriga Nacional, this is a wine that could age for worthy. Keep for at least four years. Esporão Wines & several more years. Prestige Wine Group. —R.V. Falua 2011 Tagus Creek Rosé (Tejo). A Olive Oils. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA 84 blend of Shiraz and Touriga Nacional, this pink- abv: 14% Price: $30 colored selection is bright, crisp and full of red fruit Dao Sul 2010 Quinta das Tecedeiras Flor flavors. It is soft and a touch sweet, though it finishes Muxagat 2010 Mux Tinto (Douro). This 90 de Tecedeiras (Douro). While it is densely with crisp acidity. Screwcap. Aidil Wines & Liquor Inc. 92 smooth and rich selection is wood aged and packed with fruit, this is also an elegant wine made from —R.V. full of ripe, juicy black fruits. Made from grapes old vines in the Tecedeiras Vineyard in the Douro. It abv: 13% Price: $NA sourced from vineyards in the upper valley of the Dou- has a firm structure dominated by spice and mineral. ro, it showcases its tough, mineral soil while retaining The acidity of the black currant fruit gives this a long- Valle Pradinhos 2011 Rosé (Trás-os- its dense weight. Worth aging for at least four years. term future. Aidil Wines & Liquor Inc. —R.V. 84 Montes). Orange-pink in color, this is a warm Winebow. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA style of rosé. Its richness is contrasted with the tangy, abv: NA Price: $30 orange-zest-like acidity. A blend of Tinta Roriz and Prats & Symington LDA 2010 Post Scrip- Touriga Nacional, it will be ready to drink this winter. Quinta do Vallado 2010 Touriga Nacio- 90 tum de Chryseia (Douro). Ripe and com- Aidil Wines & Liquor Inc. —R.V. 92 nal (Douro). This is an impressive, powerful plex, this has big, spicy fruit that rises above the tannins abv: 13% Price: $NA and age-worthy wine, with dense tannins that are lay- to give a sweet, full mouthfeel. Below the fruit, the dry ered with black fruit and cut with acidity. The 16-month tannins and wood aging promise the aging potential of wood-aging regimen shows in the wine’s rounded char- three years. Premium Port Wines, Inc. —R.V. DOURO REDS acter. Age for 2–3 years. Quintessential Wines. Cellar abv: 13% Price: $24 Quinta do Vesuvio 2009 Red (Douro). Ca- Selection. —R.V. PV Vinhos 2007 VT ’07 (Douro). Made pable of standing alongside the great Ports of abv: 14% Price: $55 95 using grapes sourced from old vines, this is a Vesuvio, this reveals the fantastic quality of 90 Quinta do Vesuvio 2009 Pombal de Ve- densely concentrated, solid and full. It feels spacious its vineyard. It is both powerful and elegant, a wood- suvio (Douro). Smooth and rich, this is full of and generous, with black fruit and dark chocolate up- aged wine bearing a dense, dark flavor of black plum, 92 generous, opulent black-fruit flavors. This second wine front, backed by dark, brooding tannins. Acidity on with damson-tinged acidity. This impressive wine needs from the legendary Vesuvio estate is a grand cru in its the finish gives a breath of freshness. Age for another more than 5–6 years of aging. Premium Port Wines, own right—powerful, structured and full of extremely 3–4 years. Michaek Skurnik Wines. Cellar Selection. Inc. Cellar Selection. —R.V.

abv: 13.5% Price: $73 ripe fruit. It is delicious, but will benefit from 3–4 years —R.V. of aging. Premium Port Wines, Inc. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $NA Prats & Symington LDA 2009 Chryseia abv: 14% Price: $28 Quevedo 2009 Cláudia’s Reserve (Dou- (Douro). For full review see page 5. Cellar 94 Borges 2009 Reserva Tinto (Douro). Pro- ro). For full review see page 10. Selection. 90 abv: 13% Price: $22 abv: 14.5% Price: $55 91 duced from estate-grown grapes, this is an im- pressive blend of ripe fruit, black and dense in style and Quinta de Ventozelo 2009 Touriga Nacio- Conceito Vinhos 2009 Conceito (Douro). very concentrated. The wine has weight and richness, nal (Douro). While this wine is certainly tan- A superripe example of the rich 2009 vintage, dark plum and firm structure that is cut by a steel shaft 90 93 nic, the structure is beautifully cushioned by velvety, this is dense, laden with wood and black fruit. It has of acidity. It’s worth aging for another 3–4 years. Saraiva ripe black fruit. This has produced a rich, soft, dense considerable concentration, offering a powerful coun- Enterprises. Cellar Selection. —R.V. wine that can certainly age for 2–3 years, yet is also terpoint to the fruit and layered acidity. The richness abv: 13.5% Price: $16 ready to drink now. Signature Imports. —R.V. creates an intense texture, and it needs to soften for Quinta das Bandeiras 2009 Passa- abv: 14% Price: $20 a minimum of four years. Vin de Terra Imports, Inc. gem (Douro). A joint venture between the —R.V. 91 Symington Family Estates 2009 Altano abv: 15% Price: $NA Bergqvists of Quinta de la Rosa and winemaker Jorge Moreiro in the Douro Superior has produced this im- 90 Quinta do Ataíde Reserva (Douro). For Quinta do Vallado 2010 Reserva Field pressive, deeply rich offering. It has firm tannins that full review see page 11. abv: 14% Price: $24 93 Blend (Douro). Using a blend of grapes are supported by blackberry and red plum flavors, with sourced from old vines, this is powerful, dense and a piercing line of acidity. With its concentration, it needs Delaforce 2009 Touriga Nacional (Dou- very concentrated. At the same time, an elegance light- at least four years in the cellar. Cellar Selection. —R.V. ro). This is pure Touriga Nacional, showing the ens the wine’s weight and integrates all of its elements. abv: 14% Price: $NA 89 variety’s natural perfumes and firm, structured tannins.

36 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | DECEMBER 2012 Black currant flavor and a touch of oak gives fruit and a fine shaft of acidity. This single-vineyard offering is with a core of tough tannins. It is rich, fruity and ready roundness to the structure. Age for 1–2 years. Signature worth aging for 2–3 years. Signature Imports. —R.V. to drink. Signature Imports. —R.V. Imports. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $15 abv: 14% Price: $17 abv: 14% Price: $21 Quinta do Vallado 2010 Vallado (Douro). Quinta de Ventozelo 2010 QV Tinto (Dou- Quinta de Ventozelo 2009 Reserva (Dou- 88 This is the entry-level wine from Vallado, bright 84 ro). This jammy, fruity offering tastes as though 89 ro). This is a big, bold, extracted selection that and fruity, with an attractive red-berry flavor and a sol- it were made from overripe fruit. Its light structure of- has a burnt edge to it from the wood. It’s tannic and id, tannic core. As is typical with the 2010 vintage, it fers acidity and a Port-like character. Not for aging. Sig- structured, and the note of black plum skin is lost at this has some structure and should be aged for another year. nature Imports. —R.V. stage in its life. It does have the weight to integrate well, Quintessential Wines. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $13 so give it 3–4 years. Signature Imports. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $20 abv: 14% Price: $25 Symington Family Estates 2009 Vale do Quinta do Vallado 2010 Sousão (Douro). DÃO REDS Bomfim (Douro). For full review see page 13. Known for its ability to produce deeply colored 88 89 Best Buy. Dao Sul 2009 Casa de Santar Conde de wine, Sousão has made a wine with a rough-edged char- abv: 14% Price: $12 94 Santar (Dão). The aristocratic estate of Santar acter, which gives it a firm, solid and chunky feel. A produces some of the most elegant wines in the Dão. dense layer of acidity adds balance. Age for 1–2 years. Muxagat 2011 Tinta Barocca (Douro). The 2009 vintage adds richness to a deep, complex and Quintessential Wines. —R.V. Typically earthy in style, this is an elegant ver- powerful wine, which is full of dark plum and damson abv: 13.5% Price: $40 87 sion of one of the Douro’s lesser grapes. It has a red flavors, rounded by wood aging. Age for 3–4 years. Symington Family Estates 2010 Altano plum flavor and sweet tannins, with a soft, rounded HGC Imports. Cellar Selection. —R.V. 89 Organically Farmed Vineyards (Douro). structure. It should be consumed soon while it’s still abv: 14.5% Price: $46 This wine comes from the Vilariça vineyards in the far fruity. Winebow. —R.V. east of the Douro. It is pure, rounded and rich, with abv: 13% Price: $NA Dao Sul 2008 Casa de Santar Reserva tannins that are well melded with its blackberry fruits. 93 (Dão). The historic vineyard of Casa de Santar Wood is present with restraint, producing a wine that Quevedo 2010 Oscar’s Tinto (Douro). Os- in the heart of the Dão region has produced a dense and has ripeness, style and the ability to age. Vineyard 87 car Quevedo is one member of a new genera- powerful offering, with rich tannins and black fruits. Its Brands. —R.V. tion of winemakers bringing a breath of fresh air to the intense, solid blackberry and spice flavors are followed abv: 13% Price: $15 Douro. His everyday wines, like this one, are friendly, by acidity, contributing complexity. Age for at least four fruity and delicious when consumed young. This is a years. HGC Imports. Cellar Selection. —R.V. Conceito Vinhos 2009 Contraste (Dou- great wine for barbecue. P.R. Grisley Company. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $27 88 ro). The second wine from Conceito, this is abv: 13% Price: $12 ripe and ready to drink. Boasting full, ripe, red fruit that Dao Sul 2010 Paça dos Cunhas de San- is slightly cut by tannins and acidity, this has a forward, Quinta do Sagrado 2008 Sagrado Tinto tar Nature (Dão). Huge and dense, this is sol- accessible and fruity character. Drink now. Vin de Terra (Douro). This relies on its ripe fruit to con- 91 87 idly built around dark tannins and a plum jelly flavor. Imports, Inc. —R.V. vey the rich flavors of the Douro. Its black fruit flavors With its concentration, the wine has weight, density, a abv: 13.5% Price: $NA dominate the broad tannic structure, with a light hint of wood aging. It’s bold, chunky and ready to drink. Mi- core of dryness and juicy, seemingly sweet fruit. FJN Quinta dos Murças 2009 Assobio (Dou- chael Skurnik Wines. —R.V. Fine Wines LLC. —R.V. 88 ro). This finely structured wine from the Quin- abv: 13.5% Price: $15 abv: 13.5% Price: $NA ta dos Murcas estate has ripe flavors of spice and red berry. Its warm feel is shot through with acidity for the Bernard Magrez 2009 Esperança (Dou- perfect amount of tension. You can drink this now, but 86 ro). This is firm, with an almost-burnt toast TEJO REDS it would benefit from another year of aging. Esporão flavor. It is packed with fruit and dominating woody Falua 2011 Tagus Creek Cabernet Sau- Wines & Olive Oils. Best Buy. —R.V. tannins, so give it at least two years to soften. Bernard vignon and Aragones (Tejo). In this ripe, abv: 13.5% Price: $13 86 Magrez USA. —R.V. warm and fruity wine, tannins create a firm bed for the abv: 13.5% Price: $40 Prats & Symington LDA 2009 Quinta de rich flavors of red plum and juicy berry. The soft, round- Roriz Prazo de Roriz (Douro). This second ed finish makes it a perfect candidate for young con- 88 PV Vinhos 2009 PV (Douro). Relying on wine from Quinta de Roriz is ripe, warm and ready to sumption. Aidil Wines & Liquor Inc. —R.V. ripe fruit rather than a lot of wood aging, this is drink. With its ripe black fruits, soft tannins, layers of 86 abv: 13.5% Price: $NA stylish and full of red fruit, with soft, dusty tannins and wood spices and just a hint of acidity, it’s a rich offering fragrant acids. It has some weight and concentration, from a big vintage. Premium Port Wines, Inc. —R.V. Falua 2011 Tagus Creek Shiraz and but the ripe fruitiness is the dominant characteristic. abv: 14% Price: $16 Trincadeira (Tejo). It seems quite right to call Michael Skurnik Wines. —R.V. 86 the grape Shiraz rather than Syrah in this blend, be- abv: 13.5% Price: $13 Quinta de la Rosa 2010 Dourosa (Douro). cause the wine has a ripe, sweetly fruity style reminis- 88 Smooth and rounded, this has the dense charac- cent of . It is broad and full of black fruit, laced ter of Douro wines, with open flavors of spice and black Symington Family Estates 2010 Altano with acidity and finished with a warm edge of tannin. currant. The junior wine of Quinta de la Rosa, this is 86 (Douro). Named for the air currents that allow Aidil Wines & Liquor Inc. —R.V. balanced and will be ready to drink in a year. Winesell- birds to float above the Douro, this wine is ripe, full and ers Ltd. —R.V. soft. The wood shows quite strongly at this stage, and abv: 13.5% Price: $NA abv: 13.5% Price: $16 another year’s aging will bring out the black currant note further. Vineyard Brands. Best Buy. —R.V. Falua 2011 Tâmara (Tejo). With touches of Quinta de Ventozelo 2009 Tinto (Douro). abv: 13% Price: $9 84 wood and spice, this is round, soft and ready to 88 Showcasing the richness of 2009 without sac- drink. It has a core of red fruit flavor and an attractive rificing fine structure, this is stylish and concentrated. Delaforce 2009 Tinto (Douro). In this rich, touch of cool-climate acidity. Kysela Père et Fils. —R.V. Dark black fruit accompanies a tight, minerality and 85 earthy wine, plum and licorice flavors combine abv: 13.5% Price: $10

WineMag.com | 37 ALENTEJO REDS rant and plum flavors. Ready to drink now. Vinos Unico. Granadeiro 2009 Poli Phonia Reserva —R.V. 89 (Alentejano). Made in marble-lined open fer- Monte da Penha 2005 Grande Reserva abv: 14% Price: $NA menters, this is a smooth, rich and silky wine. It has a 92 (Alentejo). Powerful and concentrated, this is ripe black-plum flavor, with sweet tannins and acidity just at its peak. Ripe, rich fruit and tarry tannins give it Herdade do Esporão 2009 AB Alicante on the finish. The alcohol, however, does show through freshness and a dry core. It’s solid and serious, a dense 91 Bouschet (Alentejano). Among the varietal as a peppery burn on the tongue. Vinos Unico. —R.V. wine that calls for equally rich food. Drink it now while wines produced by Esporão, this new wood-aged of- abv: 14.5% Price: $NA it’s at its prime. Vino Cava. —R.V. fering is rich, powerful and concentrated, with smooth abv: 14% Price: $32 edges. The wood’s smokiness combines with black plum Herdade de São Miguel 2011 Colheita and sweet juice flavors. It can certainly age. Esporão 89 Seleccionada (Alentejano). This is a rich, Herdade do Esporão 2009 Esporão Wines & Olive Oils. —R.V. dark-colored wine, its blackness due to the presence of 91 Reserva (Alentejo). For full review see page abv: 14.5% Price: $35 in the blend. It is big and dense, with 9. a new wood flavor. Accompanying this toastiness are abv: 14.5% Price: $25 Monte da Penha 2005 Montefino Reserva black fruits, with a bitter edge and fine acids. Age this 91 (Alentejano). This aromatic wine is impres- for three years. Saraiva Enterprises. —R.V. Herdade dos Machedos 2007 Santos sively rich and full of fresh fruit. Well-balanced and abv: 14% Price: $13 88 Jorge Reserva (Alentejo). Perfectly ready smooth, it has a ripe blackberry jelly note and a fine lay- to drink, this full-bodied red, a blend of Aragonez, er of acidity. This can be aged for a year, but it can cer- Monte da Penha 2008 Red (Alentejano). Trincadeira, Alfrocheiro and Castelão, is rich and spicy, tainly be consumed now. Vino Cava. Editors’ Choice. 89 Concentrated and wood aged, this has flavors of packed with baked plum and layered with tannins. It —R.V. vanilla, red plum and blackberry. The tannins have a tar- tastes concentrated and solidly ripe. Sarmento’s Imports abv: 14% Price: $16 ry, firm character that brings out the wine’s richness. It & Exports Inc. Best Buy. —R.V. is a blend of Trincadeira, Aragonez, Alicante Bouschet abv: 14.5% Price: $8 Quinta do Quetzal 2008 Reserva (Alen- and Touriga Nacional. Vino Cava. Best Buy. —R.V. 91 tejano). Ripe and opulent, this is full of warm abv: 13.5% Price: $12 Monte da Penha 2005 Reserva (Alente- red fruits that are overlaid on a solid base of tannin. 87 jo). Totally mature, this shows a rustic character It’s powerful and concentrated, and the wood aging is Cortes de Cima 2009 Petit Verdot (Alen- and firm, tarry tannins. It is weighty and dense, with a revealed in the form of a balanced touch of spice. It’s 88 tejano). Cortes de Cima’s Petit Verdot is one patina of sweet flavors that come with age. Drink it over ready to drink, though it could certainly age for another of a handful of Portugese wines made from this grape. the next few months. Vino Cava. —R.V. 2–3 years. Laurel Importers. —R.V. This is a big, bold, dark-colored wine, perfumed with abv: 14% Price: $28 abv: 14% Price: $NA mint and herb. It’s very ripe and rich, with a chunky, jammy texture. It’s not for long aging—give it 2–3 years. Terra d’Alter 2009 Telhas (Alentejano). Tri-Vin Imports. —R.V. ALENTEJANO REDS 91 This classic Northern Rhône-style blend of Syr- abv: 14% Price: $NA ah and Viognier from granite soil has produced a big, Herdade do Esporão 2009 S Syrah (Alen- tough wine. The dark tannins are lightened ever-so- Dao Sul 2010 Monte da Cal (Alentejano). tejano). This is a gorgeous wine that’s driven by 93 slightly by the Viognier. It’s rich and full bodied, a com- Smooth, soft and powerfully rounded, this is notes of spice and new wood. The wood is supported by 88 plex wine with charming swagger. Best aged for a year made from concentrated grapes grown in the hot east- ripe flavors of plum, damson and blackberry juice, with or two. Artisan Vines Distributing. —R.V. ern Alentejo. Flavors of spice, black plum and rich dam- tight acidity. The Alentejo’s dry climate is certainly suit- abv: 14.5% Price: $30 son jelly abound. The tannins and acids provide a gentle ed to Syrah, producing fine structure. Age for 3–4 years. thrust at the end. Aidil Wines & Liquor Inc. —R.V. Esporão Wines & Olive Oils. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. Herdade de São Miguel 2010 Herdade abv: 13.5% Price: $NA abv: 14% Price: $35 90 da Pimenta (Alentejano). This big, bold red is very powerful and intense, with rich black fruit and Fitapreta Vinhos 2011 Reserva (Alente- Terra d’Alter 2009 Outeiro (Alentejano). solid tannins. It has spicy touches of pimento and pep- jano). Huge weight and alcohol show strongly From the highest point of the Herdade da 88 92 per, giving an edge to its texture. It’s a concentrated se- in this powerful wine. Its flavors, almost jammy in their Boavista Vineyard in Alentejo, this is complex, mineral lection that should age for another 2–3 years. Tri-Vin ripeness, include sweet plum and damson. It needs to driven and structured. It combines great fruitiness with Imports. —R.V. age for at least four years. Winebridge Imports. —R.V. spice, intense acidity and dark smokiness. Best aged for abv: 14% Price: $18 abv: 15% Price: $19 at least three years. Artisan Vines Distributing. Cellar Selection. —R.V. Quinta do Mouro 2008 Casa dos Zaga- Granadeiro 2011 Tapada do Fidalgo abv: 14.5% Price: $35 90 los Reserva (Alentejano). An estate wine 88 (Alentejano). This is dense, with its tannins from the same producer as Monte Branco, this is el- still working hard to restrain the vivid fruit that, while Dao Sul 2009 Monte da Cal Vinha de egant and sophisticated. With Cabernet Sauvignon add- evident now, is waiting to really burst. Its blackberry fla- Saturno (Alentejano). A huge, superrich se- 91 ed to a blend of Alentejo grapes, it has rich fruit in fine vor dominates and contributes to a fresh aftertaste. Age lection, this was named in commemoration of Galileo’s proportion, with tannins and balanced acidity. Age for for 2–3 years. Vinos Unico. —R.V. discovery of Saturn in 1610. It features a fine combi- another 2–3 years. Vinoterra Importers. Cellar Selec- abv: 14% Price: $NA nation of smoky wood and big, juicy black-fruit flavors. tion. —R.V. The texture is dense, with dark chocolate and spice abv: 14% Price: $26 Monte Branco 2009 Vinha do Mouro pushing through a layer of fresh acidity. The wine could 88 (Alentejano). This is marked by bold, dense be drunk now, but will age for 2–3 years. Aidil Wines & Terra d’Alter 2009 Aragonez (Alenteja- and rich fruit. It has a sweet, soft character and is deli- Liquor Inc. —R.V. 90 no). This is a smooth, rounded wine, showing ciously fruity. Packed with blackberry-juice acidity and abv: 14.5% Price: $28 the elegant side of this Portuguese version of Tempra- ripe red plum, this is ready to drink now. Langdon Shiv- nillo. It certainly has richness, but this is well handled, erick. —R.V. Granadeiro 2008 Tapada do Fidalgo leaving a delicious, fruity wine to drink now. Artisan abv: 14% Price: $18 (Alentejano). From Reguengos de Monsaraz 91 Vines Distributing. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. in southern Alentejo, this is packed with superripe, abv: 14.5% Price: $17 Terra d’Alter 2010 Red (Alentejano). This powerful fruit. It is balanced and laced with acidity. Its 88 rich, smooth wine is driven by its ripe fruiti- great richness is foiled by the carefully etched black cur- ness. It is warm and rounded, combining black and red

38 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | DECEMBER 2012 fruit with a harmonizing shot of licorice. Give it a few Terra d’Alter 2010 Touriga Nacional OTHER RED WINES months, but it is nearly ready to drink. Artisan Vines 86 (Alentejano). This very ripe interpretation of Distributing. —R.V. Touriga Nacional brings out a dark black-plum flavor, Dao Sul 2010 Quinta do Encontro Q do E abv: 13.5% Price: $15 which hides the grape’s natural tannins. It is chunky, 90 (Bairrada). This firmly tannic wine, a blend of with powerful, forward fruit. Artisan Vines Distribut- Baga and Merlot, is juicy and strongly structured. Black Terra d’Alter 2010 Alfrocheiro (Alenteja- ing. —R.V. currant and tight blackberry notes surround the solid, 88 no). This wood-aged selection is soft and op- abv: 13.5% Price: $17 dry core of fruit and wood tannins. The wine needs to ulently smooth, with milk chocolate and black cherry age for at least three years. FJN Fine Wines LLC. Edi- flavors. It has some concentration, which is overlaid by Companhia das Quintas 2010 Portas da tors’ Choice. —R.V. its soft texture. Ready to drink. Artisan Vines Distribut- 85 Herdade Reserva (Alentejano). This is abv: 13.5% Price: $NA ing. —R.V. a full-bodied, fruity selection that’s packed with a red abv: 14.5% Price: $17 berry flavor, soft tannins and a delicious, forward and Delaforce 2007 Touriga Nacional-Cab- bright character. It is already ready to drink. Importo 90 ernet Sauvignon (Duriense). Two natu- Cortes de Cima 2010 Trincadeira (Alen- LLC. —R.V. rally tannic grapes have produced a wine of surpris- 87 tejano). Rich and soft, this is marked by a abv: 14% Price: $NA ing richness and softness. It has qualities of blackberry powerful black-fruit flavor rather than by strong tan- and herb; its tannins are now well-integrated after 18 nins. There is nothing subtle in this hugely dense and Conde Vilar 2010 Tinto (Alentejano). months in wood and three years in bottle. It’s big, ripe, concentrated offering. Ready to drink. Tri-Vin Imports. 85 Warm, soft and fruity, this has notes of spices, spicy and ready to drink. Signature Imports. —R.V. —R.V. soft tannins and a light touch of acidity. Reflecting the abv: 14% Price: $30 abv: 14% Price: $NA warm vineyards of the Alentejo, it is ready to drink now. The Vintner Group. —R.V. Valle Pradinhos 2007 Reserva (Trans- Granadeiro 2011 Tapada do Barão Col- abv: 13.5% Price: $11 90 montano). This rich wine—as rugged as the 87 heita Seleccionada (Alentejano). Ripe and Transmontano terrain—has a firm tannic structure, fruity, this is firm and concentrated; its structure comes Fitapreta Vinhos 2011 Sexy Tinto (Alente- bearing sweet-tasting blackberry fruit, with acidity that from the Cabernet Sauvignon in the blend. It has plenty 85 jano). A blend of Portuguese grapes with Cab- cuts the tannins. It’s ready to drink, but could age for of weight and should be aged for another year. Vinos ernet Sauvignon, this is attractive and softly fruity. Its three years. Aidil Wines & Liquor Inc. —R.V. Unico. —R.V. black fruit and gentle tannins make it completely ready abv: 14.5% Price: $NA abv: 14.5% Price: $NA to drink. Laurel Importers. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $16 Casal do Paço Padreiro 2009 Silenus Monte da Penha 2007 Montefino (Alente- 89 Vinhão (Vinho Verde). Oak aging gives rich- 87 jano). Soft, warm and lightly tannic, this has an Herdade de São Miguel 2011 Ciconia ness to this red Vinho Verde; its spice and acidity bal- herbaceous character. Its fresh acidity balances its black 85 (Alentejano). A blend of Touriga Nacional, anced with its red currant flavor and some weight from currant flavor. It is fragrant, fruity and mature; ready to Syrah and Aragonez, this is open, generous and easy. It the tannins. It’s an intriguing hybrid, halfway between a drink. Vino Cava. Best Buy. —R.V. has attractive red fruits that are balanced by acidity and crisp Vinho Verde and a full-bodied warm-climate red. abv: 13% Price: $10 a soft tannic backbone. Ready to drink. Screwcap. Tri- Michael Skurnik Wines. —R.V. Vin Imports. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $NA Quinta do Quetzal 2010 Guadalupe Tinto abv: 13.5% Price: $8 87 (Alentejano). Firm and obviously wood aged, Casal do Paço Padreiro 2011 Aphros Vin- this has a red plum flavor and some bitterness from Herdade do Esporão 2011 Monte Velho 88 hão (Vinho Verde). If any producer is going the highly toasted wood. It has richness and spice; ag- 85 (Alentejano). This soft, balanced selection has to make sense of Vinhão in red Vinho Verde, it’s biody- ing may soften the wood character. Laurel Importers. warm, ripe red fruits that are laced with acidity. With its namic producer Casal do Paço Padreiro. This has some —R.V. spicy edge and open texture, this is ready to drink now. richness as well as the typical cool-climate acidity, with abv: 13.5% Price: $NA Esporão Wines & Olive Oils. Best Buy. —R.V. a touch of spice and a balanced, smooth finish. Drink abv: 14% Price: $10 within the year. Michael Skurnik Wines. —R.V. Quinta do Quetzal 2008 Guadalupe Tinto abv: 12% Price: $18 87 (Alentejano). This is an oak-aged wine full of Monte Branco 2009 Alento Reserva ripe red-plum and highly toasted wood flavors. The two 85 (Alentejano). This is a huge wine—almost Valle Pradinhos 2007 Tinto (Transmon- do not yet completely harmonize, with the burnt wood too much so—with superripe tannins and fruit. It tastes 87 tano). This is a firmly tannic wine, but it has still dominating the fruit. Another year should do the concentrated, its black fruit sweet and rounded. A pep- enough rich fruit to sustain the tannins. It has a dry min- trick. Laurel Importers. —R.V. per note comes from the alcohol and gives it a bitter eral quality. At five years old, it is ready to drink, though abv: 14% Price: $NA edge. Vinoterra Importers. —R.V. the dry structure remains present. This is a blend of abv: 14.5% Price: $26 Tinta Amarela, Cabernet Sauvignon and Touriga Nacio- Terra d’Alter 2009 Alicante Bouschet nal. Aidil Wines & Liquor Inc. —R.V. 87 (Alentejano). The Alicante Bouschet grape’s Herdade do Esporão 2011 Alandra (Alen- abv: 14% Price: $NA red juice has produced a wine of intensely dark color. 84 tejano). This wine is a blend created using The texture is creamy, and the flavors of berry and cof- grapes sourced from vineyard sites, giving it a ripe, Valle Pradinhos 2010 Porta Velha (Trás- fee are rounded. There is a fine touch of spice, although full-bodied character. It is smooth, almost New-World 83 os-Montes). This earthy wine has black- pepper from the alcohol does intrude. Artisan Vines in style, but with an edge of tannins and acidity. Drink currant acidity, awkward dry tannins and a tough texture. Distributing. —R.V. this wine now. Esporão Wines & Olive Oils. Best Buy. The aftertaste is medicinal and herbal. Aidil Wines & abv: 15% Price: $17 —R.V. Liquor Inc. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $8 abv: 13% Price: $NA Terra d’Alter 2009 Reserva (Alentejano). 87 Ripe, soft fruits give this wine a rich and open Monte Branco 2010 Alento Tinto (Alen- character. It is an attractive, ready-to-drink wine, with 83 tejano). This seems raw round the edges, with PORT added complexity from black plum, spice and herb. Ar- a tough, extracted, herbal character due to the tannins tisan Vines Distributing. —R.V. and fruit imbalance. It’s still young, but this style of wine Barão de Vilar 2005 PV Collections Late abv: 14.5% Price: $20 should be drinkable now. Vinoterra Importers. —R.V. 89 Bottled Vintage Port. Coming from foot- abv: 14% Price: $15 stomped fruit in open granite lagars, this LBV feels tra-

WineMag.com | 39 ditional and intensely rich. Although it is ready to drink, ing tight, pure flavors of lime, pink grapefruit and green its firm tannins, combined with the damson jelly flavor SPARKLING WINES herb. It’s elegant and has a minerally, just-long-enough and still-integrating spirit, will enable it to age for sev- Villaggio Grando 2011 Brut (Santa Cata- finish. Vision Wine & Spirits. —M.S. eral years. First National Wines & Spirits. —R.V. 83 rina). This opens with dusty dried-apple aro- abv: 13.5% Price: $20 abv: 20% Price: $NA mas. High acidity preserves its composure even though the fruit is marginal and vacillates between flavors of Maycas del Limari 2011 Reserva Espe- Dao Sul 2008 Quinta das Tecedeiras LBV apple and lemony citrus. Wine Twist. —M.S. 90 cial Sauvignon Blanc (Limarí Valley). 89 Late Bottled Vintage Port. This is a finely abv: 11.3% Price: $31 Minerally and mildly salty, this has white-fruit aromas balanced LBV with structure complementing the lus- of citrus and pear. It feels true and lively, with green, cious black-fruit and raisin flavors. The wine is rich and Salton NV Gerações Espumante Nature tropical notes of lime and apple along with chalky min- densely textured, very smooth and unctuous. Big tan- 82 (Brazil). Applesauce and wheat aromas im- erals. Mellow and smooth, it’s long on the finish. Banfi nins suggest that the wine could age. Aidil Wines & Li- mediately make this wine slightly unappealing. In the Vintners. —M.S. quor Inc. —R.V. mouth, it feels bubbly and fruity, with candied apple abv: 13.5% Price: $22 abv: 20% Price: $20 and orange flavors, followed by a finish that’s a mix of sweet corn and dry citrus. A & M Imports. —M.S. Montes 2011 Outer Limits Beyond Fron- Barão de Vilar NV 10 Anos Collections abv: 12.5% Price: $26 90 tiers Zappallar Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc 88 Tawny Port. This 10-year-old tawny is on the (Aconcagua Valley). This is a perfectly nice Sauvi- fruity side of this style. It is an easy, dried-fruit-flavored gnon Blanc from stand-alone vineyards in Zapallar. The wine with a texture like smooth toffee. Hints of apri- RED WINES nose features a varietal aroma of white pepper and a pi- cot and milk chocolate grace the finish of this ripe Port. quant hint of green. The acid-driven palate bears lime, Villaggio Grando NV Innominabile Lote First National Wines & Spirits. —R.V. tangerine and bell pepper flavors. T.G.I.C. Importers. IV (Santa Catarina). This is mentholated and abv: 20% Price: $NA 86 —M.S. spicy, with a brandied cherry note as the dominant aro- abv: 13% Price: $30 Quevedo 2010 Quinta Vale d’Agodinho ma. Tight but not too severe, it would pair well with 88 Vintage Port. This Port is structured, with meat. Its flavors of raspberry and dry plum are tasty, and Koyle 2011 Koyle Costa Sauvignon notes of mint and herb. It has blackberry jam flavor and the finish hits hard with tightness featuring dry raspber- 89 Blanc (Colchagua Costa). This is snappy in a firm, solid structure, while it also shows intense youth- ry and cherry skin. A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cab the front of the palate, with green pea, bell pepper, tan- ful fruitiness. It is rich and full, showing some firm tan- Franc, Merlot and Malbec. Wine Twist. —M.S. gerine and grass aromas. It feels alert, crisp and citric, nins. Either drink it right now, or leave it for 10 years. abv: 13.6% Price: $35 with dry lime, grapefruit and pole bean flavors that cul- P.R. Grisley Company. —R.V. minate in lemon and persistent grapefruit notes on the Casa Perini 2008 Tannat (Vale Trentino). abv: 19.5% Price: $75 finish. A linear, high-acid style of Sauvignon Blanc, this Notes of cherry and wet-animal fur define the 82 has definite coastal influences. Quintessential Wines. nose. The palate is lean and juicy, with acidity and tan- Barão de Vilar NV PV Tawny Port Collec- —M.S. 87 tions. This sweet and ripe tawny is touched by nic grip. It tastes tart and shallow, with foxy red-fruit fla- abv: 12.5% Price: $22 flavors of raisin, rich red fruit and spice. It has a smooth, vors. Uva Oliva Inc. (Peninsula Beverage LLC). —M.S. toffee texture that’s attractively leavened with acidity. abv: 12.5% Price: $15 Undurraga 2011 Sibaris Reserva Es- Like all tawny Ports, it is ready to drink. First National pecial Sauvignon Blanc (Leyda Valley). Lidio Carraro 2010 Agnus Encruzilhada 89 Wines & Spirits. —R.V. Composed, correct and minerally on the nose, this wine do Sul Merlot (Serra do Sudeste). This abv: 19.5% Price: $NA 82 has typical and attractive pungent-green aromas. It feels wine’s cola, forest floor, cherry and cassis aromas are zesty and crisp, with cutting acidity in support of grassy, promising, but on the palate it’s a tannic crusher, with Barão de Vilar NV PV White Port Collec- classically Leyda flavors of lime, grapefruit and lemon- mouth-blasting acids. It feels abrasive and tastes of rub- tions. A sweet style of white Port, this is deli- grass. It’s angular but long on the finish. Testa Wines Of 86 bery black fruits. Winebow. —M.S. ciously full of sultana, ripe date and a tang of orange. It’s The World. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $15 young and fruity, delicious by itself or in a cocktail. First abv: 14% Price: $16 National Wines & Spirits. —R.V. abv: 19.5% Price: $NA URUGUAY Undurraga 2011 Aliwen Reserva Sauvi- 88 gnon Blanc (Curicó and Leyda Valleys). Barão de Vilar NV PV Ruby Port Collec- Fresh and grassy up front, with bell pepper, tropical 85 tions. This is soft, young and fruity, with a dom- RED WINE fruit and citrus aromas, this features briny flavors of inating red-plum flavor. It makes for a fine apéritif, with Artesana 2010 Estate Blend Tannat-Mer- lime, grapefruit and tarragon. The finish is controlled, its open, warm and ready-to-drink character. First Na- lot (Canelones). This classic South American and tangy. Testa Wines Of The World. Best Buy. tional Wines & Spirits. —R.V. 87 red has robust, rustic berry aromas that are matched by —M.S. abv: 19.5% Price: $NA chewing gum, animal hide and spice. This is muscular abv: 13.5% Price: $13 stuff, with oaky, spicy, drying flavors of dark cherry and Kingston Family 2011 Cariblanco Sau- fudge. It’s not a cuddly wine; it could use some aging. BRAZIL vignon Blanc (Casablanca Valley). Crisp, Epic Wines. —M.S. 87 abv: 14% Price: $23 green and snappy on the nose, this is however not as de- WHITE WINE fined, cut or chiseled on the palate as in previous vintag- es. It tastes grassy, bordering on vegetal, but also a little Vinícola Aurora NV Carnaval Moscato CHILE wayward and soft. Kingston Family Vineyards. —M.S. 82 (Brazil). This is jumpy and aggressive on the abv: 14% Price: $16 nose, with lemon-lime aromas akin to Sprite. Grabby almost to the point of being cloying, it is driven by clas- SAUVIGNON BLANC Piggy Bank 2011 Sauvignon Blanc (Elqui sic Moscato flavors of lime and sweet lychee. It’s chalky Bodega Volcanes de Chile 2011 Pomera- 87 Valley). This opens with an oily note that’s soon without a good follow through. ABB Partners, LLC. pe Limited Edition Sauvignon Blanc (Ley- replaced by generic white peach and apple scents. It —M.S. 90 da Valley). This wine gets going with aromas of grass, feels plump, with chunky flavors of citrus, kiwi and lime, abv: 7.5% Price: $15 citrus and mineral. Next comes a chiseled palate, bear-

40 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | DECEMBER 2012 and it’s mild yet fairly long on the tail end. Well-Oiled nana and mango. It’s flabby on the finish. Arcadia -Im 14% white Carmenère. It shows mellow oak notes and Wine Company. —M.S. ports. —M.S. latent acidity on the finish. Schwartz Olcott Imports. abv: 13.5% Price: $13 abv: 12.5% Price: $8 Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $10 Miguel Torres 2012 Santa Digna Reserve 86 Sauvignon Blanc (Central Valley). The CHARDONNAY Casa Silva 2011 Reserva Chardonnay (Colchagua Valley). snap pea, tarragon, and passion fruit aromas Miguel Torres 2011 Cordillera Chardon- 85 This wine’s orange and make this wine easy to identify as Sauvignon Blanc. It lemon aromas are crisp and fresh overall. And like all nay (Limarí Valley). Popcorn and nutty notes feels linear and razor sharp, with sizzling grapefruit and 88 standard Chilean Chardonnay, it’s plump and round. announce the ample oak, but a complex combination apple flavors. Tangy and very fresh, it turns to lime and The wine tastes of melon, honey and peach, and even of mineral and baked white-fruit aromas also emerge. green onion on the finish. Dreyfus, Ashby & Co. —M.S. as it turns slender in flavor, the finish remains strong. It feels big, layered and chunky, but with good acidity abv: 13.5% Price: $12 Vin Divino. —M.S. and some finesse. It tastes of candied apple, melon and abv: 14% Price: $NA sweet peach, with a fleshy finish and lasting oak. Drey- William Cole 2011 Columbine Special fus, Ashby & Co. —M.S. Reserve Sauvignon Blanc (Casablanca Chilensis 2011 Reserva Chardonnay 86 abv: 13.5% Price: $23 Valley). Cool and green smelling, with briny notes and 85 (Maule Valley). Nectarine and orange aromas whiffs of green pepper and sea foam, this shows inten- Undurraga 2010 Sibaris Reserva Espe- create a clean bouquet. It’s round and mouth filling in sity, while the flavors veer toward lime, passion fruit and terms of weight, with pithy flavors of peach, honey and cial Chardonnay (Maipo Valley). Toasty, green herb. It’s nervy and tasty on the finish. Global 88 apple. The flavors remain concise on the mildly creamy inviting aromas of apple and melon lead to a balanced Vineyard Importers. —M.S. finish. Vici Wine and Spirits. —M.S. palate with layered flavors of resiny oak, pear and peach. abv: 13% Price: $16 abv: 13.5% Price: $12 The finish continues with resin and oak, but by then it has already established itself as a well-balanced wine, Echeverria 2012 Classic Collection Sau- Cono Sur 2011 Organically Grown with tasty flavors of white and tropical fruit. Testa Wines vignon Blanc (Curicó Valley). This is mild Grapes Chardonnay (San Antonio). Pop- 85 Of The World. —M.S. 85 and lightly citric smelling, with an ocean spray note on corn, sweet melon and pear aromas dominate the nose. abv: 14.5% Price: $16 the bouquet. On the palate, it is fresh and deep, with This feels pure and chunky, with honeyed melon, apple a note of nectarine. The finish is solid, but loses some Casa Silva 2011 Angostura Gran Reser- and spiced peach flavors. Fruity, thick and tropical in fruit and gains some bitterness. Viña Echeverria. Best style, this is not too serious but not bad either. Vineyard va Chardonnay (Colchagua Valley). This Buy. —M.S. 86 Brands. —M.S. wine smells subtly of hickory and resin but is otherwise abv: 13% Price: $10 abv: 13.5% Price: $14 neutral on the nose. It feels creamy, smooth and woody, with oak leading the flavor profile, with other notes of Cono Sur 2011 Sauvignon Blanc (Central Montes 2011 Classic Series Chardonnay melon and honey. This is a plump, oaky, honeyed style Valley). On the nose, this smells like bath soap (Curicó Valley). Except for some resiny oak, 84 of Chardonnay. Vin Divino. —M.S. 85 or air freshener. It feels fleshy and oily on the palate, this wine is limited on the nose. It feels fleshy but bal- abv: 13.5% Price: $14 with tropical flavors of banana and papaya. The finish anced by citric acid, while the flavors include melon, is smooth and tastes of candy. Vineyard Brands. —M.S. De Martino 2011 Legado Reserva Char- pear and oak-driven spice. It’s not too fruity, exact or abv: 12.5% Price: $12 minerally, but it will likely please fans of basic, casual donnay (Limarí Valley). Fleshy and border- 86 Chardonnay. T.G.I.C. Importers. —M.S. line mealy on the nose, with banana and melon as the François Lurton 2012 Hacienda Arauca- abv: 13.5% Price: $12 primary aromas, this feels heavy even though firm acid- no Reserva Sauvignon Blanc (Lolol Val- 84 ity creates spine and depth. It tastes like a mash-up of ley). The standard Sauvignon Blanc aromas of lime and Santa Carolina 2011 Reserva Chardon- apple, melon and baking spice before the chunky finish. mineral define the nose of this wine. It tastes juicy to an nay (Casablanca Valley). On the nose, trop- Opici Wines. —M.S. 85 extreme, with fruit flavors of nectarine and apple that ical fruit aromas are cloaked in creamy, toasty oak. It abv: 13.5% Price: $16 don’t rise to a high level. It’s tangy, candied and bright feels full and round, with flavors of sweet pear, banana on the finish. Winesellers Ltd. —M.S. Laroche 2011 Punto Niño Reserva Char- and a lot of resiny wood. The finish features walnut, va- abv: 12.5% Price: $12 nilla and cream flavors. Carolina Wine Brands USA. donnay (Casablanca Valley). This new 86 —M.S. wine from the Laroche family of Chablis is a good, Root:1 2012 Sauvignon Blanc (Casa- abv: 13.6% Price: $12 though standard, Chilean Chardonnay. Peach, ctirus blanca Valley). Pungent up front, with green 84 and wax aromas lead to a round palate with ample acid- herb, white pepper and citrus aromas, this is zesty and Lapostolle 2011 Casa Grand Selection ity. It tastes like apple, banana and other tropical fruits, acidic on the palate, with a monotonous lemon flavor Chardonnay (Casablanca Valley). Gran- with sweetness and honey on the finish. Wilson Daniels 84 on the finish. It turns more tart and acidic as it airs. ular citrus aromas define the bouquet on this wine. It Ltd. Best Buy. —M.S. Winebow. —M.S. feels soft, with just enough acidity to avoid flabbiness. abv: 14.4% Price: $11 abv: 12.5% Price: $12 Banana and pithy citrus flavors set up a basic finish with Montes 2010 Alpha Chardonnay (Casa- lasting bitterness. Terlato Wines International. —M.S. Viña Chocalan 2011 Selección Sauvi- abv: 13% Price: $12 blanca Valley). On the nose, there are cider, gnon Blanc (Maipo Valley). For wine drink- 86 83 oak and baked corn notes. The palate is full of oak and ers who don’t mind briny aromas, here is a wine with Lomas del Valle 2011 Coastal Cool Cli- resin flavors that prevent the fruit from emerging im- a funky-oyster quality on the nose. This adequate wine mate Chardonnay (Casablanca Valley). mediately. It tastes of hickory, apple and melon on the 84 tastes of orange, brine, asparagus and pickled beans. It’s Innocuous on the nose, with hints of mild oak and white palate and finish. T.G.I.C. Importers. —M.S. juicy and plump on the tail end. Domaine Select Wine fruit, this feels zesty and lean, with citrus and melon abv: 14% Price: $22 Estates. —M.S. flavors. It’s mellow, sweet and easy. Loma Larga Vine- abv: 13% Price: $12 oops 2011 Chardonnay (Central Valley). yards. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $12 Although it’s not very aromatic, the nose on this Quasar 2011 Selection Sauvignon Blanc 86 wine is easygoing, with mild peach and apple aromas. (Molina). Soapy on the nose, this feels soft, Terrenal 2011 Estate Bottled Chardon- 82 It feels fresh and medium bodied, with apple, peach melony and low in acid, while the flavors suggest ba- nay (Curicó Valley). Very light and mildly cit- and melony flavors, the latter perhaps due to the blend’s 83 rusy in aroma, this has notes of tangerine, lemon and

WineMag.com | 41 air freshener. It feels basic but fresh, with tropical fruit but oily, with green melon, vanilla and peach flavors. flavors that are tangy and mildly bitter. L. Watson, INC. It fades to a mildly bitter note of green banana, with a CABERNET SAUVIGNON Best Buy. —M.S. tropical overtone. Vin Divino. —M.S. Miguel Torres 2008 Manso de Velasco Vi- abv: 13.5% Price: $5 abv: 14.5% Price: $14 93 ñas Viejas Cabernet Sauvignon (Curicó Valley). For full review see page 7. Cellar Selection. William Cole 2011 Albamar Chardonnay Matetic 2011 Corralillo Gewürztraminer abv: 14% Price: $65 82 (Casablanca Valley). Pinched and sharp on 87 (San Antonio). This small-production wine the nose, this has nettle and citrus aromas that are more features light but potent aromas of lychee, orange, hon- Gillmore 2008 Hacedor de Mundos Old typical of Sauvignon Blanc than of Chardonnay. It feels ey, wild flowers and spice. It’s fairly lean and elegant 91 Vines Cabernet Sauvignon (Loncomilla juicy and acidic, with passion fruit, grapefruit and last- on the palate, with exotic spice and tropical fruit fla- Valley). Powerfully built and well balanced, this has ing citrus flavors. It’s fresh and racy, but it’s varietally vors. Short and pithy on the finish but nice for Chilean aromas of cherry, red currant, spice, dried cheese and confusing. Global Vineyard Importers. —M.S. Gewürztraminer. Quintessential Wines. —M.S. earth, giving way to flavors of red plum, wild berry, abv: 12.5% Price: $11 abv: 13.5% Price: $20 buttery oak and vanilla. Drink now or cellar it through 2017. The Artisan Collection. Editors’ Choice. —M.S. Arauco 2011 Reserva Pinot Grigio (Cen- abv: 14.9% Price: $45 RIESLING 83 tral Valley). Minerally and neutral on the nose, Matetic 2011 Corralillo Riesling (Casa- this tastes fresh and crisp like a green apple, with dry Lagar de Bezana 2008 Reserva Cabernet flavors of white fruit and bitter almond. It retains that blanca Valley). This begins with the varietal’s 90 Sauvignon (Cachapoal Valley). This heady 88 almond character on the finish, which turns even drier standard aromas of petrol, mineral and peach pit. It Cabernet features aromas of baked fruit blended with and more bitter. Dangerous Wine Group. —M.S. feels tight and strapping, with minerality on the tongue char. It feels rich and smooth, though maybe a touch abv: 13% Price: $14 and a tight grip. Flavors emerge of waxy peach, citrus flat, with roasted, savory flavors of plum, berry, dried and almond skin. Its finish is tangy, chiseled and long. spice and coffee. The finish is warm and maintains the Cremaschi Furlotti 2010 Reserva Pinot Quintessential Wines. —M.S. wine’s baked character. Vino Del Sol. —M.S. Grigio (Maule Valley). The nose introduces abv: 14% Price: $20 82 abv: 14% Price: $18 aromas of vanilla wafer and vegetable. This wine feels flabby and uncommitted, with bitter flavors of white Meli 2011 Riesling (Maule Valley). The Undurraga 2010 Aliwen Reserva Caber- fruit, green banana and white pepper. It is neither in- bouquet here is crisp, dry and minerally, with a 90 net Sauvignon (Maipo Valley-Colchagua 86 teresting nor exciting. Dangerous Wine Group. —M.S. petrol scent. In the mouth, it feels snappy, cutting and Valley). A little meat and earth add depth to this wine’s abv: 13% Price: $12 citrusy, with orange and peach flavors. This is fruity and dominant cassis and berry aromas. It is bold, with black solid, with juicy acidity and a citrus-dominant character. fruit, chocolate and spice flavors. This is a familiar style Made using grapes from old vines planted in the 1950s. ROSÉ of wine made right. Testa Wines Of The World. Best Global Vineyard Importers. —M.S. Buy. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $12 Miguel Torres 2011 Santa Digna Estela- abv: 14% Price: $13 89 do Rosé (Central Valley). For full review see Cono Sur 2011 Riesling (Central Valley). page 11. Editors’ Choice. Chilcas 2010 Reserva Cabernet Sauvi- 85 Petrol, motor oil and peach aromas, along with a abv: 12% Price: $20 89 gnon (Colchagua Valley). This is round and whiff of cheese, entice the nose. The wine feels chunky dark up front, with a touch of bacon on the nose. It feels and tastes of tarragon, thyme, grapefruit and green ap- fresh and medium in power, with blackberry, plum and ple. Overall, it’s a basic wine, and it doesn’t improve on SPARKLING WINES chocolate flavors that roll into a peppery, spicy finish. the finish. Vineyard Brands. —M.S. Vici Wine and Spirits. Best Buy. —M.S. Miguel Torres NV Santa Digna Estelado abv: 13.5% Price: $13 abv: 13% Price: $12 87 Rosé Sparkling Wine (Chile). Wheaty and yeasty on the nose, this becomes clearer and more fo- Errazuriz 2009 Viñedo Chadwick Caber- OTHER WHITE WINES cused on the palate and finish. The mouthfeel is round 89 net Sauvignon (Maipo Valley). Initially this and solid, while the flavor profile folds in a maderized smells reductive and like horseradish, although with air- Casa Silva 2011 Late Harvest Semillón- tone, with cherry and raspberry notes and mild bitter- ing it moves on to aromas of pepper and berry. Citrusy 88 Gewürztraminer (Colchagua Valley). This ness. Dreyfus, Ashby & Co. —M.S. acidity gives zest to what is otherwise a creamy-feeling is burnished gold in color, with strong aromas of hon- abv: 12% Price: $NA red. Flavors of cassis, berry and brown sugar lead to a ey, noble rot and exotic spice. It feels creamy and soft long, baked-tasting finish. Vintus LLC. —M.S. but not prostrate, with orange, clove, citrus peel, honey Miguel Torres NV Cordillera Brut (Curicó abv: 14.5% Price: $280 and nutmeg flavors. The finish turns more peppery but 86 and Maipo Valleys). This brut made from Pi- remains honeyed. Gewürztraminer’s character is more not Noir is sweet and simple on the nose, suggesting a Veramonte 2010 Primus Cabernet Sauvi- pronounced on this wine than Semillón’s. Vin Divino. welcome note of applesauce. It’s a bit foamy and lacking 89 gnon (Colchagua Valley). This has a rasp- —M.S. in texture, but the flavors of tangy apple, lime and lem- berry aromas that is sweetened by a graham cracker abv: 13.5% Price: $14 on are nice. It finishes with a seltzer character. Dreyfus, note and deepened by a leather accent. It feels round, Ashby & Co. —M.S. well balanced and lively, with berry, cassis, chocoalate Casa Silva 2011 Lolol Viognier (Colcha- abv: 12% Price: $23 and spice flavors. The finish is solid, echoing the palate’s 88 gua Valley). The bouquet on this is dry, fresh flavors and feel. Huneeus Vintners. —M.S. and lemony, with hints of sugar cookie and vanilla wafer. Undurraga NV Titillum Original (Ley- abv: 14.5% Price: $20 It feels wide, plump and oily, with white fruit flavors of 84 da Valley). This heavy bubbly has aromas of peach and melon along with tropicality and mild bitter- matchstick, burnt grass and apple. It feels jagged and Viu Manent 2010 Gran Reserva Cabernet ness. The finish is cleansing but still a little bitter. Vin foamy, with mealy apple and hay flavors. The finish 89 Sauvignon (Colchagua Valley). For full re- Divino. —M.S. is fresh and lively, but it turns bitter as it fades. Testa view see page 13. Best Buy. abv: 14.5% Price: $22 Wines Of The World. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $14 abv: 13% Price: $40 Casa Silva 2011 Reserva Viognier (Col- Rios de Chile 2008 Gran Reserva Cab- 87 chagua Valley). This smells tropical and cit- 88 ernet Sauvignon (Cachapoal Valley). The rusy, with hints of acacia and wild flower. It feels round

42 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | DECEMBER 2012 nose is lemony, warm and floral. It feels full, solid and and edgy, with flavors of tobacco, wood, pepper and Floria 2010 Semi Sweet Cabernet Sau- sturdy on the palate, with tobacco, baked cherry, plum earthy red fruit. It’s spicy, drying, warm and fairly long 84 vignon (Molina). Made in a semisweet style, and herb flavors. The finish remains herbal, with coffee on the finish. Viña Echeverria. Best Buy. —M.S. this smells almost dry, with notes of cheese and vanil- and chocolate notes. Winery Direct. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $12 la. On the palate, it’s simple, where the sugary flavors abv: 14% Price: $20 quickly emerge before fading away to almost nothing. Vistamar 2010 Sepia Reserva Cabernet Arcadia Imports. —M.S. Viña Chocalan 2010 Selección Caber- 87 Sauvignon (Maipo Valley). The bouquet is abv: 13% Price: $10 88 net Sauvignon (Maipo Valley). Dense and dense, smoky and rubbery, with powerful meat and ber- meaty up front, this has cola, wild berry and herb aro- ry notes. It shows vitality as well as mild choppiness on Cuevas del Sur 2010 Reserve Cabernet mas. It feels big and bursts with spicy berry and pepper the palate, with tobacco, lemon, balsamic and 83 Sauvignon (Curicó Valley). Meaty and rub- flavors. It finishes dark, with coffee-like bitterness, and black fruit flavors. Mildly herbal, it is somewhat creamy bery smelling, this has a wide and dilute mouthfeel. It it’s nicely balanced overall. Domaine Select Wine Es- and good overall on the finish. Deutsch Family Wine & tastes stalky and a little burnt, with red fruit flavors on tates. Best Buy. —M.S. Spirits. Best Buy. —M.S. the fringe. The finish is herbal, with some heat. Carbe abv: 14.5% Price: $12 abv: 14% Price: $12 LLC. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $15 Apaltagua 2010 Signature Cabernet Sau- Casa Silva 2010 Reserva Cabernet Sau- 87 vignon (Maipo Valley). This wine’s crusty, 86 vignon (Colchagua Valley). The nose is vi- minerally aromas of black fruit are lightly toasted and brant and a bit feral, with aromas of red plum, cher- CABERNET FRANC earthy. On the palate, it feels tannic and high in acid- ry, red currant and herb. It feels lively, with raspberry, Calcu 2010 Cabernet Franc (Colchagua ity, with roasted, earthy flavors of plum and raspberry. cherry and herbal plum flavors. The finish is juicy. Vin Valley). For full review see page 12. Best Buy. Concentrated and grabby on the finish, it has a touch of Divino. —M.S. 90 abv: 13.5% Price: $14 lemony oak and astringency. Global Vineyard Import- abv: 14% Price: $12 ers. —M.S. Peñalolen 2009 Cabernet Franc (Casa- Miguel Torres 2010 Santa Digna Reserve abv: 14% Price: $40 blanca Valley). This cool-climate rendition of Cabernet Sauvignon (Central Valley). 90 86 Cabernet Franc has intense aromatics of olive, peppery Domaines Barons de Rothschild (Lafite) Rubbery smelling at first, this soon settles on medicinal spice, leather, herbal plum and berry. It shows power 2010 Los Vascos Grande Reserve Cab- berry and cassis aromas. It feels pretty tight and tannic 87 and a nice mouthfeel, with a medicinal black-fruit flavor ernet Sauvignon (Colchagua Valley). This smells but not overwhelmingly so, with baked, dark flavors of and a strong herbal backbone. The finish is moderately basic and clean, with black fruit aromas of cherry and black fruit, hard spice and herb. It feels and finishes a oaky and resiny. Global Vineyard Importers. —M.S. plum. It feels rugged, grabby and tannic, with a dark, bit warm. Dreyfus, Ashby & Co. —M.S. abv: 14.3% Price: $18 chocolaty flavor of baked berry leading to a toasty abv: 14% Price: $14 and spicy finish that delivers strong tannin. It reflects Odfjell 2007 Orzada Cabernet Franc MontGras 2010 Reserva Cabernet Sauvi- the cool conditions of 2010. Pasternak Wine Imports. (Maule Valley). Medicinal, mildly herbal aro- gnon (Colchagua Valley). Cherry and plum 89 —M.S. 86 mas revolve around red and black fruit scents, with a aromas dominate the rather basic bouquet of this wine, abv: 14% Price: $20 candied accent and a root-like dryness. This is a ma- which has a saucy, barbecued element to it. It shows ture wine with screeching acidity that pushes raspberry, Lagar de Bezana 2010 Reserva Cabernet tannic grip along with flavors of savory berry and bar- plum, briary spice and oak flavors. The finish tastes pep- Sauvignon (Cachapoal Valley). Although beque sauce. The finish tastes spicy and roasted, with 87 pery and feels dry. Select Fine Wine. —M.S. this wine has the darkness, density and body of a higher- grip and push. Palm Bay International. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $20 level wine, it smells baked and balsamic, with an earthy abv: 14.5% Price: $12 flatness to the nose. It feels tannic and grabby, with Chilcas 2010 Single Vineyard Cabernet Casas del Toqui 2010 Reserva Cabernet roasted berry, hickory and savory barbecue flavors. The Franc (Maule Valley). This has balsamic aro- Sauvignon (Cachapoal Valley). This smells 88 finish is woody and dry. Vino Del Sol. —M.S. 85 mas of roasted black fruit, autumn leaf, coconut and pinched and citrusy. The palate is tight and rubbery in abv: 14% Price: $18 oak. It feels big, fruity and a bit raw, with black cherry, feel, with minty berry and black plum flavors. Licorice, dark plum and cassis flavors. The finish is dark, spicy Laroche 2010 Punto Niño Reserva Cab- oak character and warmth push the finish. Buena Cepa and chocolaty. This is totally New World in style, aroma ernet Sauvignon (Maipo Valley). This Wines. —M.S. 87 and flavor. Vici Wine and Spirits. —M.S. wine’s black cherry and spice aromas are clean and in- abv: 14% Price: $12 abv: 13.5% Price: $18 viting. Despite angular acidity, it feels fresh, while the De Martino 2010 Legado Reserva Caber- palate deals a mix of dark fruit, spice, herb and choco- Lomas del Valle 2010 Coastal Cool Cli- net Sauvignon (Maipo Valley). This opens late flavors. The finish is herbal and slightly briny. Wil- 85 mate Cabernet Franc (Casablanca Val- with mildly leafy, murky aromas of iodine and latex, 88 son Daniels Ltd. Best Buy. —M.S. ley). This opens with classically Chilean aromas of bell with hints of black fruit. The palate feels a bit choppy abv: 14.5% Price: $11 pepper, olive and berry. It feels firm and tightly wound, and hollow, with an herbal mix of tomato and red plum with plum and herb flavors. Despite its herbal qual- Maquis 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon (Col- flavors. It’s solid, but herbal and scratchy feeling as a ity and its peppery, briary finish, the wine neverthe- chagua Valley). This is big and dark on the whole. Opici Wines. —M.S. 87 less manages not to taste green. Loma Larga Vineyards. nose, but also kind of generic. It feels round, flush and abv: 13.5% Price: $16 —M.S. tannic, with blackberry, chocolate and a mild bitter- abv: 14% Price: $15 ness to the palate. The wine finishes big and chewy, but Montes 2010 Classic Series Cabernet Sauvignon (Colchagua Valley). This starts there’s a persistent, controlled bitterness to the flavor 85 Echeverria 2010 Reserva Cabernet Franc out with murky, leathery aromas that veer toward la- profile. Global Vineyard Importers. —M.S. (Curicó Valley). The bouquet is briary, with tex and rubber. It has tannic grip and decent structure. 87 abv: 13.5% Price: $19 aromas of clipped berry and herb. It feels sassy, edgy The wine tastes of roasted berry fruit and saucy plum, and tannic, with herbal flavors of raspberry and red cur- Quasar 2009 Gran Reserva Cabernet followed by a baked-tasting finish. T.G.I.C. Importers. rant. The finish is a little choppy and tannic, with a sub- Sauvignon (Curicó Valley). Brick dust, dry —M.S. 87 tle green-flavored accent. Viña Echeverria. Best Buy. earth, berry and spice aromas comprise the mild, mod- abv: 14% Price: $12 —M.S. erately complex bouquet. On the palate, it feels lively abv: 14% Price: $12

WineMag.com | 43 CARMENÈRE roasted and syrupy qualities. The finish is thick, sweet Oveja Negra 2010 Single Vineyard Car- and dense. T.G.I.C. Importers. —M.S. 86 menère (Maule Valley). Raspberry and plum Errazuriz 2009 Kai Carmenère (Acon- abv: 14.5% Price: $75 aromas carry hints of lemon and flower. It tastes solid, 91 cagua Valley). Mild, earthy and composed with flavors of herb, meaty berry, plum and lemony oak. on the nose, this has rich berry and cassis aromas and Veramonte 2010 Primus Carmenère (Col- There’s a spiciness, with spiky acidity on the finish that not too much herbal essence. It feels voluminous and 89 chagua Valley). This smells ripe, mossy and feels forced. Vici Wine and Spirits. —M.S. chewy, with medicinal black fruit, spice cake and nut- chocolaty, with aromas of herb and briary berry. It fea- abv: 14% Price: $18 meg flavors, followed by a deep, almost-syrupy finish. tures a mild acidic beam in the center of the palate, and Vintus LLC. —M.S. tastes earthy, meaty and lightly herbal, but also offers Santa Alicia 2011 Reserva Carmenère abv: 14.5% Price: $155 notes of plum and berry. Huneeus Vintners. —M.S. 86 (Maipo Valley). This wine carries aromas of abv: 14.5% Price: $20 blackberry and olive. Its dominant flavor of berry with Lapostolle 2010 Cuvée Alexandre Apalta an herbal-rhubarb twist is solid. The finish lifts, with a 91 Vineyard Carmenère (Colchagua Valley). Undurraga 2010 Sibaris Reserva Espe- hint of tomato. Halby Marketing. Best Buy. —M.S. Opaque in color and superrich on the nose, it has domi- 88 cial Carmenère (Colchagua Valley). This abv: 14% Price: $10 nant aromas of earth, leather, baked fruit and spice. It wine’s bouquet is peppery, meaty, spicy and altogether feels lush and chunky, maybe a touch soft, with earthy, honest. The palate feels frisky and juicy, not heavy or Calcu 2010 Reserva Carmenère (Colch- naturally herbal flavors of dark fruit, plum and choco- flat, then tastes of char, black coffee, cola and spiced, 85 agua Valley). This features plum, berry and late. The finish is smooth and warming. Terlato Wines herb-tinged berry. The finish is long, toasty and snappy. leather aromas that are accented by a hint of lemon. International. —M.S. Testa Wines Of The World. —M.S. It feels narrow and drawing, with black fruit, herb and abv: 14.3% Price: $25 abv: 14.5% Price: $16 carob flavors. The finish, which doesn’t taste green or herbal, is better and wider. Global Vineyard Importers. San Pedro 2008 Tierras Moradas Carme- Casa Silva 2007 Microterroir de Los —M.S. 91 nère (Maule Valley). This is a complex Car- 87 Lingues Carmenère (Colchagua Valley). abv: 13.5% Price: $14 menère, with notes of graphite, mulberry, barrel-driven This is a funky, pushy type of wine, with prickly aro- char and coconut. The round, chewy, deep palate of- mas of green herb and berry. For a 2007, it is big and San Pedro 2010 Castillo de Molina fers notes of toast, chocolate, coconut and roasted black a bit rough, with an herbal, green-leaning berry flavor 85 Reserva Carmenère (Maule Valley). Notes fruit. Drink this rich, mature, generous offering now. distinctive of this producer and its Los Lingues Vine- of hickory smoke and clove open this heavy wine. Its Contains 7% Petit Verdot. Shaw-Ross International Im- yard. It finishes with additional herbal kick and heat. Vin flavors of wild berry and spice are a bit warm, while the porters. —M.S. Divino. —M.S. finish simmers with firm tannins and minty oak. Shaw- abv: 14% Price: $44 abv: 14% Price: $48 Ross International Importers. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $12 Undurraga 2009 Founder’s Selection Casas del Toqui 2009 Reserva Carme- 90 Carmenère (Colchagua Valley). Initial 87 nère (Cachapoal Valley). The light red-fruit Viña La Rosa 2011 La Palma Carmenère blackberry aromas are met with notes of olive, herb and aromas on this wine are accompanied by a controlled 85 (Cachapoal Valley). Briary spice and wild violet petal. It feels tight, pure and not overdone, with herbal component. It feels crisp and fresh, tasting of berry aromas set up a palate with a core of raspberry baked berry, coffee and chocolate flavors. The finish roasted berry, baking spice and sweet chocolate. It’s flavor mixed with a mild dose of greenness. The finish is chocolaty and smooth, with some complexity. Testa long and full on the finish. Buena Cepa Wines. Best is clean and standard—fruity and not bashful. Viña La Wines Of The World. —M.S. Buy. —M.S. Rosa USA. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $40 abv: 14% Price: $12 abv: 13.5% Price: $9

Viu Manent 2008 El Incidente Carmenère De Martino 2010 Legado Reserva Carme- De Martino 2010 347 Vineyards Carme- 90 (Colchagua Valley). This ripe Carmenère 87 nère (Maipo Valley). This shows the varietal’s 84 nère (Central Valley). This smells dry and has attractive coconut, blueberry and marzipan aro- spicy, earthy aromas in a fresh way. The mouthfeel is leafy, with a bacon note. It feels lively and edgy, with mas. Meaty and showing good grip on the palate, the crisp, while herbal, peppery flavors blend properly with berry, currant and oak spice in its flavor profile. It -fin wine features herb and spice flavors resting heavily atop the spice and plum notes typical of Carmenère. The fin- ishes fairly tannic and warm, with a rubbery strength. notes of black fruit and clove. It’s spicy and quite long ish is brambly and drifts toward spunky red fruit. Opici Opici Wines. —M.S. on the finish, with coffee, pepper and herb notes. Bay- Wines. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $13 state Wine & Spirits. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $16 abv: 14.5% Price: $50 Quasar 2008 Selection Carmenère (Moli- Apaltagua 2010 Envero Gran Reserva 84 na). This is an honest wine, with an herbal aro- Miguel Torres 2008 Cordillera Special 86 Carmenère (Colchagua Valley). Tradi- ma and notes of tomato and red plum. It feels zingy due 89 Reserve Carmenère (Curicó Valley). This tional Carmenère aromas of olive, greenish plum and to tomato-like acidity, with red fruit flavors followed by smells scratchy and woodsy, with aromas of leather and berry are on full display here. It feels a bit acidic, with a lean finish. Arcadia Imports. Best Buy. —M.S. piquant spices. It feels dense and layered, with am- scratchy and herbal flavors of spiced plum and red ber- abv: 14% Price: $8 ple body weight and loud flavors of herbal black fruit ry. The finish is persistent but also abrasive and aggres- and wood spice. Like Carmenère often does, it finish- sive. Global Vineyard Importers. —M.S. Root:1 2010 Carmenère (Colchagua es toasted, peppery and herbal. Dreyfus, Ashby & Co. abv: 14.5% Price: $16 83 Valley). The leather and earthy plum aromas —M.S. in this wine come with a strong, stalky component. It abv: 14% Price: $25 Montes 2009 Limited Selection - Apalta tastes big and syrupy, with the roasted flavors that the 86 Vineyard Carmenère (Colchagua Valley). nose anticipates. The finish is baked tasting, with a gritty Montes 2009 Purple Angel Carmenère There’s no denying this wine’s green character, which feel and a mild green accent. Winebow. —M.S. 89 (Colchagua Valley). Gritty, charred and blends with aromas of hay, red berry and scratchiness. abv: 13.5% Price: $12 herbal on the nose, this has aromas of earthy black fruit On the palate, it feels a bit syrupy, countered by acid- and ground coffee. It feels wide and full bodied, bear- ity. It tastes savory, with sweet, chocolaty and barbecued Quasar 2010 Gran Reserva Carmenère ing flavors of savory spice, tobacco and cinnamon, with flavors. It turns oakier on the finish. T.G.I.C. Import- 82 (Curicó Valley). This is earthy and gritty on ers. —M.S. the nose, with fallow red-fruit aromas. It feels astrin- abv: 14.5% Price: $15

44 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | DECEMBER 2012 gent and tangy, then tastes of salt, tomato and plum. Arauco 2011 Merlot (Central Valley). An spice, olive and licorice. This finishes quick, with juicy The wine falls off on the finish. Viña Echeverria. —M.S. 80 herbal cherry aroma comes with notes of leath- acidity. Vin Divino. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $12 er and mulchy earth. It feels and tastes dried out, with abv: 14% Price: $14 tart, grating acidity and medicinal, herbal flavors on the finish. Dangerous Wine Group. —M.S. Matetic 2010 Corralillo Syrah (San An- MALBEC abv: 13% Price: $10 85 tonio). From the earthquake-plagued harvest, Viu Manent 2009 Viu 1 Malbec (Colcha- which was also very cool by Chilean standards, this has notes of iodine, candied berry, and bramble. The feel 92 gua Valley). For full review see page 8. abv: 14.5% Price: $75 SYRAH/SHIRAZ is pointed and snappy, with earthy, funky red-berry flavors. It’s zesty on the finish. Quintessential Wines. Lagar de Bezana 2008 Single Vineyard —M.S. Polkura 2009 Malbec (Colchagua Valley). Limited Edition Syrah (Alto Cachapoal). 93 abv: 14% Price: $28 91 Winemaker Sven Bruchfeld has stepped up his For full review see page 6. Editors’ Choice. Malbec game with this wine. The nose is jammy and abv: 14.5% Price: $40 Santa Alicia 2010 Edición Limitada Gran full of cassis, blackberry, leather and a whiff of fine aged Reserva de Los Andes Shiraz (Casa- cheese. It feels lush and dense, with powerful, driving Polkura 2008 Block G + I Syrah (Colcha- 84 blanca Valley). Here’s another 2010 Chilean Syrah flavors of blackberry, dark plum, spice and herb. It’s big gua Valley). Strong berry aromas come with 91 that seems affected by that vintage’s cool conditions. but not punishing on the slightly minty finish. Drink ample leather, earth and tobacco accents. The palate is It shows notes of burnt grass and rubber, with a mildly now–2015. Wine Markets International, Inc. —M.S. tough and tight, but loaded with powerful, earthy fla- weedy note. The palate is tight and acidic, with mint, abv: 14.5% Price: $29 vors of black fruit, mineral and a can’t-miss briny, salty olive and herb-tinged fruit flavors. Halby Marketing. element. It’s aggressive, savory and potent on the finish. —M.S. Viu Manent 2009 San Carlos Single Vine- This needs food or a couple of years more aging. Wine abv: 13.5% Price: $25 91 yard Malbec (Colchagua Valley). For full Markets International, Inc. —M.S. review see page 10. Editors’ Choice. abv: 14.8% Price: $50 San Pedro 2010 Castillo de Molina abv: 14.5% Price: $25 Reserva Shiraz (Maule Valley). This smells Miguel Torres 2008 Cordillera Special 81 murky and soupy, with a palate that feels angular and Odfjell 2007 Malbec (Lontué Valley). This Reserve Syrah (Maule Valley). This smells 89 high in acidity. It tastes mulchy and tart, delivering a is concentrated and oaky on the nose, with hick- jammy and full, with leather, baked black-fruit and bal- 90 barbecue note on the finish. Shaw-Ross International ory smoke, toast and rubber notes, along with a black- samic aromas. Saturated, deep and honest on the pal- Importers. —M.S. berry aroma. It feels linear and structured due to the ate, with a flower note interspersed with blackberry and abv: 14% Price: $10 core acidity, while the flavor profile entails staunch, spice flavors. It falls off a bit on the finish, but on the slightly salty cassis, berry and plum flavors. It’s not su- plus side it’s not pounding or aggressive. Dreyfus, Ashby perfruity on the finish, but vanilla and coconut flavors & Co. —M.S. CARIGNAN surface. Select Fine Wine. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $25 abv: 15% Price: $75 Gillmore 2008 Hacedor de Mundos Old San Pedro 2009 Kankana del Elqui Syrah 91 Vine Carignan (Loncomilla Valley). Aro- 88 (Elqui Valley). A unique wine with a proprie- mas of wild berries and milk chocolate are balanced MERLOT tary Elqui imprint, this smells balsamic-y and tomatoey, and deep. It feels solid, full and fresh, with plum, berry, Rios de Chile 2011 Reserva Merlot with a rooty, earthy undercurrent. It feels grabby and herb and oak-based flavors that continue onto the finish. 84 (Cachapoal Valley). Dry berry aromas fea- full bodied, with tomato, boysenberry and green tobac- For something different, this is one powerful, well-built ture a minty, spicy side. The palate feels drying, with co flavors. It holds onto that ashy tobacco character on wine. Drink now–2015. The Artisan Collection. —M.S. a raspberry flavor and a green herb note. It’s medium- the full-force finish. Shaw-Ross International Import- abv: 14.8% Price: $45 bodied, with a hint of plum in addition to resiny wood ers. —M.S. Santa Ema 2008 Amplus Old Vine Cari- and green flavors on the finish. Winery Direct. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $44 gnan (Peumo). abv: 14% Price: $12 91 Impressive and generous, this Matetic 2010 EQ Syrah (San Antonio). gets going with full berry and chocolaty oak aromas. The Casas del Toqui 2011 Merlot (Central Val- 87 Like the winery’s 2010 Corralillo Syrah, this well-structured palate bears lightly herb-tinged flavors 83 ley). This is raspy and rough on the nose, with comes across funky, more herbal and pointed than in of berry and chocolate. It finishes dry, peppery and stur- heavy mint, green herb, latex and bell pepper aromas. prior years. The body is full but hard, with roasted berry, dy as a cinder block. Drink now–2015. T.G.I.C. Import- It feels fairly full, with herb and peppery berry flavors, spice and herb flavors. It feels forced and a bit warm, ers. —M.S. leading to a green, minty, scratchy finish. Buena Cepa with a salty note and juicy, almost sharp acids. Quintes- abv: 14.5% Price: $22 Wines. —M.S. sential Wines. —M.S. Miguel Torres 2009 Cordillera Special abv: 13.5% Price: $12 abv: 14% Price: $43 90 Reserve Carignan (Maule Valley). This Chilensis 2011 Reserva Merlot (Maule San Pedro 2009 1865 Limited Edition opens with a rewarding wave of berry, milk chocolate 82 Valley). Pinched cherry and berry aromas are 87 Syrah (Elqui Valley). This seems a bit fiery and creamy oak aromas. The mouthfeel is concentrated lean and leathery. It feels tight and scouring, with oaky, on the nose, with tomato, exotic berry, herb, coffee and and intense, with juicy, fresh flavors of wild berry and green flavors of berry and cherry. It tastes dried out and earth aromas. It feels raw and tannic but serious, with plum. The finish is spicy, fairly oaky and seriously craft- herbal on the finish. Vici Wine and Spirits. —M.S. zesty, herbal flavors of briary berry and oak. The herbal ed. Drink now–2015. Dreyfus, Ashby & Co. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $12 Elqui character appears on the the finish. Shaw-Ross abv: 14% Price: $25 International Importers. —M.S. Viña Requingua 2011 Puerto Viejo Re- abv: 14% Price: $25 De Martino 2009 El León Single Vineyard 82 serve Merlot (Curicó Valley). Earthy, leath- 89 Carignan (Maule Valley). This is dark, rub- ery aromas are hot and end up smelling like a field in Casa Silva 2010 Reserva Syrah (Colcha- bery and wild on the nose, with a heavy dose of choco- summertime. It feels hard on the palate, with a but- 86 gua Valley). Scattered, candied-fruit aromas laty oak. It feels crisp due to its high acidity, but also tery oak note that sets up flavors of plum and raspberry are in your face and aggressive. It feels flush but not ful- feels raring to go. The flavors of blackberry and plum mixed with green herb. Puerto Viejo Wines. —M.S. ly concentrated, with herb-tinged flavors of black fruit, are snappy and dry, while the finish is driven by the abv: 14% Price: $10

WineMag.com | 45 acidity. It will age well; drink now–2016. Opici Wines. quet is full of rubber, marzipan, exotic spice and lem- Viña La Rosa 2009 La Capitana Bar- —M.S. on-like aromas. It shows a rawness on the palate along 87 rel Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon-Merlot abv: 14.5% Price: $30 with toasty dark-berry and lemon flavors. The finish is (Cachapoal Valley). This has green-leaning aromas oaky, with tangy acids and a spot of heat. This is a blend of tobacco, tomato and grass that are matched by more Morandé 2008 Edición Limitada Cari- of 80% Cabernet Franc, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon and standard plum and berry notes. It feels tight, tannic and 87 gnan (Loncomilla Valley). Edgy plum and 10% Carignan. Drink now–2015. Fine Estates From rubbery, with medicinal flavors of herbal black fruits berry aromas come with an herb accent, a spice note Spain. —M.S. and mint. Solid as a whole, this holds its pose on the and a flower element. It comes across high in acidity, abv: 14.5% Price: $85 finish, although even there it’s a touch green. This is with shearing plum and cherry flavors that end with a a blend of 70% Cabernet Sauvignon and 30% Merlot. feeling of citric acid. It’s crisp and intense, but also tight San Pedro 2008 Cabo de Hornos Spe- Viña La Rosa USA. —M.S. as nails. Morande USA. —M.S. 90 cial Reserve (Curicó Valley). Tight and in- abv: 14.5% Price: $17 abv: 14.5% Price: $23 tense off the bat, but airing reveals tobacco, herb and spice notes along with earthy berry and plum aromas. De Martino 2008 Las Cruces Single Vine- It feels staunch and grabby, with medium-strength tan- 86 yard Old Bush Vines (Cachapoal Valley). RED BLENDS nins and crusty, baked flavors of berry, black plum, mint After a leathery start, aromas of plum, berry and spice Lapostolle 2009 Clos Apalta (Colchagua and chocolate. Warm and rooty on the finish; drink now enter the picture. It feels clampy with an aggressive tan- 93 Valley). Typically intense, polished and smooth –2016. This is a blend of 80% Cabernet with 15% Syr- nic bite. The flavors are more briny and herbal than ide- up front, this has concentrated aromas of graphite, cola, ah and 5% Malbec. Shaw-Ross International Importers. al, with a leather hint in addition to plum and wild berry wild berry, spice, coconut and wood. It feels full and —M.S. notes. It’s hard and minty tasting on the finish. Opici makes a statement on the palate, where baked, earthy, abv: 14.5% Price: $50 Wines. —M.S. fully loaded flavors of clove, herb and black fruit hold abv: 13.5% Price: $NA Estampa 2009 Reserve Assemblage Syr- court. Oaky and spicy on the finish, this needs another ah-Cabernet Sauvignon-Merlot (Colch- MontGras 2010 Quatro (Colchagua Val- 2–4 years to fully settle. Terlato Wines International. 89 agua Valley). Bold berry aromas form a nice greet- ley). Scratchy and herbal on the nose, this has Cellar Selection. —M.S. 86 abv: 15% Price: $90 ing, accompanied by the scent of milk chocolate. It dry raspberry aromas. It feels fresh, raw and racy, with feels tight and tannic but healthy as an ox, with pep- cherry, red currant, rhubarb and an herb component to Estampa 2008 Gold Syrah-Cabernet Sau- pery dark-berry flavors that come with a lemony edge. the flavor profile. It’s vital but edgy feeling on the finish. 91 vignon-Merlot-Malbec (Colchagua Val- Fresh and short on the finish. American Estates Wines, Palm Bay International. —M.S. ley). The bouquet smells warm, earthy, leathery and Inc. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $15 chock full of dark berry aromas. It’s a voluminous wine abv: 14.5% Price: $16 Chono 2010 Reserva Carmenère-Syrah with tannic grip but no overt bite. The flavor profile is Undurraga 2010 Aliwen Reserva Caber- (Elqui Valley). This starts out stalky and sharp concentrated and amped up, with cassis, blackberry and 84 net Sauvignon-Syrah (Rapel Valley). This smelling, although airing brings about more round, molasses flavors that culminate with notes of coconut 89 is herbal and a touch smoky on the nose, with plum and herbal notes that are common for wines from the Elqui and buttery oak on the finish. Drink now–2015. Ameri- berry components. It feels lifted but full bodied, with region. It feels grabby and sticky, with minty, green, al- can Estates Wines, Inc. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $24 ripe, creamy flavors of dark fruit and integrated oak- most weedy flavors that blend into dark berry and choc- based spice. It shows a sweet, balsamic, root-like qual- olate notes. Masciarelli Wine Co. —M.S. Lapostolle 2010 Canto de Apalta (Rapel ity on the finish. Testa Wines Of The World.Best Buy. abv: 14% Price: $12 Valley). This is a new wine from Lapostolle, —M.S. 91 oops 2011 Red (Central Valley). Crusty on bearing a nose that’s intense and compact, with mineral abv: 14.5% Price: $13 the nose, this has an asphalt note that transitions and dark fruit aromas. It feels rich and muscular but 83 MontGras 2010 Reserva Cabernet Sau- into hard spice and sour berry notes. It has flavors of not heavy, with berry, licorice, buttery oak and vanilla vignon-Syrah (Colchagua Valley). For full creamy, minty oak and medicinal berry fruit. A lasting flavors. The finish is minty and chocolaty tasting. Car- 88 review see page 13 Best Buy. flavor of oak-driven spice and a hint of green carry some menère, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah make abv: 14.5% Price: $12 heat. Schwartz Olcott Imports. —M.S. up the blend. Terlato Wines International. Editors’ abv: 13.5% Price: $10 Choice. —M.S. Oveja Negra 2011 Reserva Cabernet abv: 14.1% Price: $20 87 Sauvignon-Syrah (Maule Valley). Basic, Viña Requingua 2009 Potro de Piedra clean and spicy up front, this has berry and cherry aro- OTHER RED WINES mas. It feels lively, with acidic punch and fresh flavors Family Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon- Carmen 2009 Gran Reserva Maipo Alto 91 of wild berry, plum and vanilla. It more or less tastes Cabernet Franc (Curicó Valley). For full review see Petite Sirah (Maipo Valley). This smells a the same on the finish, which has a wiry feel but oth- 87 page 9. Editors’ Choice. bit green, with aromas of herb, juniper, cola and earthy erwise comes across solid. Vici Wine and Spirits. Best abv: 14.5% Price: $25 black fruit. It feels tannic, with an herbal core. A minty, Buy. —M.S. briary flavor of herb-scented blackberry leads to the abv: 13.5% Price: $12 Lagar de Bezana 2008 Aluvion Gran firm, tight finish. Trinchero Family Estates. —M.S. Reserva (Cachapoal Valley). This is com- abv: 14.5% Price: $15 90 San Pedro 2009 1865 Limited Edition plex on the nose due to a mix of cowhide, charcoal, Cabernet Sauvignon-Syrah (Cachapoal prune, cassis and spice aromas. It feels dense and thick 87 Chilcas 2010 Single Vineyard País Valley). This is a very full, meaty, saturated blend, with on the palate, with olive, baked berry and spice fla- (Maule Valley). The nose bears lightly green a lightly stewed nose that carries aromas of tomato, ba- 83 vors. The finish is peppery and a touch herbal, long and aromas of stalky cherry and raspberry. It feels grabby on con, mint and brambly berry. It feels grabby and punchy strong. This is a blend of 65% Syrah and 35% Cabernet the palate, with peppery, dry flavors that come up short due to strong tannins, then tastes of medicinal black Sauvignon. Vino Del Sol. —M.S. in terms of fruit content. The finish is spicy, rustic and fruit, herb and coconut-tinged oak. Spicy and hard on abv: 14% Price: $28 unwavering. Vici Wine and Spirits. —M.S. the finish. Shaw-Ross International Importers. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $18 O. Fournier 2008 Red Blend (Maule Val- abv: 14.5% Price: $25 90 ley). Like most O. Fournier signature reds, this is dark, extracted and modern in style. The bou-

46 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | DECEMBER 2012 CALIFORNIA minerality lend this Chardonnay a distinctive personal- Pont de Chevalier 2010 Chardonnay ity. The cool vintage has given it a certain lean appeal, 88 (Knights Valley). This takes ripe fruit and oak but that’s not to minimize the tropical fruit and sweet influence to the limits, with powerful flavors of buttered CHARDONNAY oak that give it richness. It’s sleek, stylish and moderate toast, pineapple, orange jam and vanilla-cream. This de- Jarvis 2010 Finch Hollow Estate Grown in alcohol. —S.H. fines the flashy style of California Chardonnay, with a Cave Fermented Unfiltered Chardonnay abv: 13.6% Price: $37 honeyed finish. —S.H. 96 14.5% $45 (Napa Valley). For full review see page 3. Editors’ abv: Price: Pine Ridge 2010 Le Petit Clos Chardon- Choice. nay (Stags Leap District). Very rich and dra- Line 39 2010 Chardonnay (North Coast). abv: 14.7% Price: $115 92 matic—the grapes used for this wine were grown in a 87 For full review see page 13. Best Buy. Jarvis 2010 Finch Hollow Estate Grown tiny, cool block of the estate in this corner of Cabernet abv: 13.5% Price: $10 Cave Fermented Chardonnay (Napa Val- country. It’s full but balanced, with crisp acidity, tangy 95 Lyeth 2011 L de Lyeth Chardonnay (So- ley). For full review see page 4. minerality and lots of ripe tropical-fruit flavors. This did noma County). Rich and delicious, this has abv: 14.7% Price: $95 not undergo . —S.H. 87 abv: 14.2% Price: $65 flavors of pineapple tart, lemon meringue pie, buttered Chamisal Vineyards 2010 Califa Selec- toast and smoky butterscotch that are balanced by fine Etude 2010 Estate Grown Chardonnay tion Chardonnay (Edna Valley). For full re- acidity and dry, firm minerality. —S.H. 94 (Carneros). 13.5% $13 view see page 5. Editors’ Choice. 91 A strong, distinguished Char- abv: Price: abv: 13.4% Price: $40 donnay, this is rich and concentrated, yet elegantly dry. There are plenty of tropical fruit and citrus flavors, Mirassou 2011 Chardonnay (California). Foxen 2011 Block UU Bien Nacido Vine- but the fruit is balanced with mineral and herb notes, 87 For full review see page 13. Best Buy. 93 yard Chardonnay (Santa Maria Valley). grounding it and letting this wine be a companion to abv: 13.5% Price: $12 Foxen’s UU Block from the famed Bien Nacido Vin- food. —S.H. Mount Eden 2010 Wolff Vineyard Char- beard fights it out every year with the estate Tinaquaic abv: 14.2% Price: $32 donnay (Edna Valley). A well-balanced Chardonnay for top honors. In this cool vintage, the for- 87 Krutz 2011 Ceja Vineyard Magnolia Se- Chardonnay, this has flavors of tropical fruit, apricot mer wins out by a hair. Dry, steely and crisp in acidity, ries Chardonnay (Sonoma Valley). and lemon candy, brightened by that famous Edna Val- it shows vast tropical fruit, orange, vanilla, honey and 91 For full ley acidity. This would make for a great apéritif. —S.H. buttered toast flavors that are delicious and refined. The review see page 9. Editors’ Choice. abv: 13% Price: $22 abv: 13.5% Price: $21 richness and elegance strongly suggest pairing it with lobster. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. Martin Ray 2011 Reserve Chardonnay Patz & Hall 2010 Dutton Ranch Chardon- abv: 13.8% Price: $32 91 (Los Carneros). For full review see page 9. 87 nay (Russian River Valley). This is very rich, with flashy oak that gives it a powerful buttered-toast Jarvis 2010 Estate Grown Cave Ferment- abv: 13.5% Price: $25 flavor. Underneath the oak are notes of mango, lime and ed Chardonnay (Napa Valley). For full re- 93 Flowers 2010 Chardonnay (Sonoma green apple, brightened by crisp acidity. —S.H. view see page 6. Coast). Rich and oaky, this has apricot, orange, abv: 14.2% Price: $42 abv: 14.3% Price: $58 90 vanilla and buttered toast flavors, with crisp acidity pro- Sextant 2010 Chardonnay (Central Knights Bridge 2010 West Block Char- viding balance. It takes the popular Chardonnay style to Coast). This is dry and crisp in mouthwatering donnay (Knights Valley). For full review see an upper level in terms of the balance and the fanciness 87 93 acidity, and the tropical fruit flavors have a minerality page 6. of oak. —S.H. that makes it savory. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $65 abv: 13.7% Price: $40 abv: 14% Price: $16 Mount Eden 2009 Estate Bottled Char- Foxen 2011 Steel Cut Bien Nacido Vine- yard Chardonnay (Santa Maria Valley). Shannon Ridge 2011 High Elevation Col- donnay (Santa Cruz Mountains). There’s a 90 93 lection Chardonnay (Lake County). For hard, minerally edge to this Chardonnay, like the tang The underlying fruit on this unoaked Chardonnay 87 full review see page 12. of cold metal, an impression that’s heightened by its cit- doesn’t need the richness of barrels in order to satisfy. abv: 13.9% Price: $23 rusy acids. The flavor veers toward Meyer lemon, while Its flavors are enormously rich and ripe, with notes of toasted oak brings needed vanilla and honey richness. tropical fruits, oranges, vanilla and spices. Interesting- Vigilance 2011 Chardonnay (Red Hills It’s controlled and tight, compared to more opulent bot- ly, it’s also much higher in alcohol than Foxen’s oaked Lake County). For full review see page 12. tlings, but it’s also elegant and complex. Mount Eden’s Chardonnays, giving it an almost dessert wine headi- 87 abv: 14.1% Price: $25 Chardonnays have a history of aging, and this fine one ness. —S.H. abv: 15.6% Price: $32 will go for 10 years or so, gradually losing fruit. —S.H. Dillon 2009 Barrel Fermented Chardon- abv: 13.5% Price: $55 MacRostie 2009 Wildcat Mountain Vine- 86 nay (Yountville). With flavors of buttered toast, vanilla, sweet mango and orange jam flavors, this Flowers 2010 Camp Meeting Ridge Es- 90 yard Chardonnay (Sonoma Coast). For is as rich, ripe and oaky as they come. Finishing with a tate Vineyard Chardonnay (Sonoma full review see page 10. 92 abv: 14.1% Price: $35 honeyed accent, it’s made to appeal to consumer’s who Coast). The acidity in this Chardonnay stars, giving it enjoy the popular style. —S.H. a mouthwatering tanginess. There’s a solid core of apri- Sequoia Grove 2010 Chardonnay (Carne- abv: 13.7% Price: $23 cot, lime and tropical fruit flavors that give needed rich- ros). For full review see page 11. ness. A mineral note adds bracing grip. The dryness is 90 abv: 14.2% Price: $28 Dillon 2009 Stainless Steel Fermented just fine, keeping the wine worthy of repeated sipping. 86 Chardonnay (Yountville). This brims with Overall, this is a food friendly wine; drink now–2016. Martin Ray 2011 Chardonnay (Russian ripe, forward flavors of pineapples, golden mangos, —S.H. River Valley). For full review see page 11. Ed- honey and spicy pears, with vanilla and buttered toast abv: 13.5% Price: $65 88 itors’ Choice. notes despite being unoaked. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $20 abv: 13.7% Price: $23 Foxen 2011 Tinaquaic Vineyard Char- 92 donnay (Santa Maria Valley). Acidity and

WineMag.com | 47 Domaine Eden 2009 Chardonnay (Santa Counter Punch 2009 Chardonnay (Sta. Guenoc 2011 Chardonnay (Lake Coun- 86 Cruz Mountains). Rich, if a little one-dimen- 85 Rita Hills). Not particularly Chardonnay-like, 83 ty). This Chardonnay telegraphs barrel, bar- sional, this has flavors of creamy orange, yellow apricot, this tastes more like a Sauvignon Blanc, with flavors of rel and more barrel. To its credit is its creamy texture. vanilla and buttered toast. It will appeal to fans of the citrus, lemongrass, vanilla and honey. It seems a little —V.B. forward style of Chardonnay. —S.H. sweet on the finish, but nicely tart. —S.H. abv: 14.2% Price: $14 abv: 13.8% Price: $28 abv: 14.6% Price: $38 F.J. Serra 2011 Chardonnay (California). Pine Ridge 2010 Dijon Clones Chardon- Dante 2010 Reserve Chardonnay (Cali- 82 This tastes seemingly sweet, like a candy bar 86 nay (Carneros). The underlying wine here is 85 fornia). This tastes like it could be anything of honey, orange extract, vanilla and roasted almonds. fine, crisp and minerally, with green apple fruit. Lots of from Chardonnay to Sauvignon Blanc to Grenache —S.H. new oak, however, sticks out, in the form of buttered Blanc, but it’s rich in honey, orange and buttered toast- abv: 13% Price: $20 toast and butterscotch. —S.H. flavors. It’s seems a little sweet, but it has a good cut of abv: 14.2% Price: $34 acidity. —S.H. Goyette 2010 Chardonnay (Monterey abv: 13.5% Price: $11 82 County). Seemingly sweet and simple, this has Seven Heavenly Chards 2011 Chardon- buttery flavors of pineapple jam, white sugar and toast. 86 nay (Lodi). The white sister to the wine Sev- Educated Guess 2010 Chardonnay (Napa A brisk cut of acidity provides a semblance of balance. en Deadly Zins, this is lusciously sinful in its own right, 85 Valley). With its dryness and elegance, this is a —S.H. tasting of oak, vanilla and marshmallow and even movie good Chardonnay for everyday drinking. The citrus and abv: 14.3% Price: $25 theater popcorn. Creamy, this finishes with a swath of peach flavors are counterbalanced by an herbal earthi- ripe green apple. —V.B. ness, like a note of dried sage. —S.H. Vaquero 2010 Chardonnay (Sonoma abv: 14.5% Price: $14 abv: 14.6% Price: $17 82 County). This feels thin and common, with notes of tangerine and buttered toast. It’s a wine to Sierra Madre 2010 Block 210 Estate Gallo Signature Series 2010 Chardonnay drink at parties and such. —S.H. 86 Chardonnay (Santa Maria Valley). Strong 85 (Russian River Valley). This is too oaky, but abv: 13.5% Price: $16 in oak and ripe fruit, this tastes overworked. It’s domi- it’s dry and crisp in acidity, with interesting citrus, tropi- nated by buttered toast, butterscotch and pineapple jam cal fruit and pear flavors. The heavy application of oak Thomas Scott 2010 Grand Reserve Char- flavors. It will satisfy legions of Chardonnay lovers who results in buttered toast and caramel accents. —S.H. 81 donnay (Sonoma County). Lots of toasty like this popular style. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $30 oak can’t hide the fact that the underlying wine has a abv: 14.9% Price: $30 strong vegetal note, with some apricot and pineapple Gen5 2011 Chardonnay (Lodi). A tropical- flavors. Tasted twice. —S.H. Sobriquet Winery 2010 Chardonnay 85 ly oriented Chardonnay, this has aromatic hints abv: 14% Price: $17 86 (Santa Maria Valley). Strong and oaky but of corn nuts and apricot fuzz, finishing with a taste of not particularly subtle or complex. It’s impressive for its sour lemon. —V.B. sheer power, offering blasts of buttered toast, butter- abv: 13.9% Price: $14 SAUVIGNON BLANC scotch, pineapple and orange jam and vanilla, wrapped Kelleher 2011 Block 21 Sauvignon Blanc Joseph Cellars 2010 Chardonnay (Napa up in a creamy texture. —S.H. (Napa Valley). For full review see page 10. Valley). Oak sticks out on this wine, with a 90 abv: 14.5% Price: $24 85 Editors’ Choice. buttered-toast note dominating the modest underlying abv: 14.5% Price: $28 Trione 2009 River Road Ranch Chardon- fruit. There’s also an herbal quality, which is sometimes 86 nay (Russian River Valley). Lots of domi- found in Napa Valley Chardonnays. —S.H. Coquelicot 2009 Sauvignon Blanc (Santa nating new French oak shows up in the form of smoky, abv: 14.5% Price: $29 89 Ynez Valley). This proves how well Sauvignon vanilla-rich buttered-toast aromas and flavors. Under Blanc can ripen in this warmish, inland Santa Barbara Lincourt 2011 Steel Chardonnay (Sta. the oak are forward notes of pineapple jam, green apple valley. Backed up with crisp acidity, this has a firm, min- Rita Hills). This is dry, crisp in acidity and butter and spice flavors. A little obvious in its appeal, 85 erally moutheel that conveys refreshing Meyer lemon, clean, with citrus and tropical fruit flavors. With no oak, but it will satisfy lots of Chardonnay lovers. —S.H. lemongrass, guava and honey flavors. —S.H. abv: 14.1% Price: $30 the fruit stars. There’s a touch of apricot that gives it an abv: 14.1% Price: $24 eccentric taste. —S.H. Buena Vista 2011 Chardonnay (Sonoma abv: 13.9% Price: $18 Oberon 2011 Sauvignon Blanc (Napa Val- 85 County). Made in the popular style, this has ley). Tasty, zesty and rich, this would be a versa- Rutherford Hill 2010 Chardonnay (Napa 89 buttered popcorn, pineapple jam, lemon meringue pie tile accompaniment to a wide range of foods. It charms Valley). Buttered toast, buttered popcorn, or- and smoky vanilla flavors. It seems a little sweet, but 85 with its flavors of Asian pear, lime, fig, vanilla and spice, ange marmalade and lemon zest flavors characterize brisk in acidity. —S.H. bearing vigorous acidity that balances out what seems to this lush, creamy Chardonnay. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $15 be some sweetness. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. abv: 13.8% Price: $24 abv: 13.7% Price: $16 Butternut 2011 Chardonnay (California). Rutherford Hill 2010 Chardonnay (Carne- 85 Lots of decadent, butterscotch-like oakiness 1070 Green 2011 Sauvignon Blanc (Ruth- ros). This is all about buttered toast, buttered marks this Chardonnay. It’s also rich in peach jam and 85 erford). Flavors of green hay, tart juniper berry popcorn and orange- and pineapple-soda flavors. Fans 88 apple butter flavors. Crisp acidity gives the needed bal- and gooseberry surface in this Sauvignon Blanc, in addi- of the popular style will love it. —S.H. ance to all of the richness. —S.H. tion to richer notes of Meyer lemon and vanilla. It’s dry abv: 14.2% Price: $28 abv: 13.9% Price: $17 and elegantly complex, with a honeyed richness. This shows the versatility to pair across a huge range of cui- Clos du Val 2010 Chardonnay (Carne- Silver Ridge 2010 Chardonnay (Califor- sines. —S.H. ros). nia). This is pretty slender, but it gets the Char- 85 Dry and soft, this is a little earthy, so if 84 abv: 14.2% Price: $25 you’re expecting a big, rich wine this might not be for donnay job done with its flavors of buttered toast, cream you. It has dried herb, grilled pineapple and smoky oak and peach. —S.H. Benziger 2011 Sauvignon Blanc (North abv: 12.5% Price: $12 flavors. —S.H. 88 Coast). Fresh, clean and bright, this is resplen- abv: 13.5% Price: $25 dent with lemon and lime tones, with a grassy touch

48 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | DECEMBER 2012 that’s similar to the style. Well-made and Rock Hollow 2010 Vintner’s Selection fruit—such as apricot and white plum—that are accen- refreshing, this has a pure green-apple-flavored finish. 86 Sauvignon Blanc (Santa Barbara Coun- tuated by a figgy finish. With plenty of meat on its bones Best Buy. —V.B. ty). Nicely crisp in acidity, this has a minerally scour and a lush mouthfeel, it’ll stand up to thick sauces and abv: 13.5% Price: $13 that cleans the mouth. The pineapple, lime and gua- the richness of lobster and crab. —V.B. va flavors are strong, and the finish seems just a little abv: 14.6% Price: $28 Bernardus 2011 Griva Vineyard Sauvi- sweet. —S.H. 88 gnon Blanc (Arroyo Seco). Griva Vineyard abv: 13.8% Price: $18 Chimney Rock 2010 Elevage Blanc is supersensitive to the slightest vintage variation. The 87 (Napa Valley). This is forward and spicy, with chilly 2011 harvest has given just enough sweet tropical- Honker Blanc 2011 Sauvignon Blanc flavors of citrus fruit, green apple and nectarine that star fruit flavor to balance out the tart gooseberry note. It’s 85 (Napa Valley). This tastes sweet, with a hon- in this creamy blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Sauvignon still a slightly green wine, but a good one, and it will pair ey-infused orange flavor. There’s a crisp note of acid- Gris. It’s dry and crisp in acidity—perfect for drinking well with goat cheese. —S.H. ity for balance. Overall, this is easy to drink with almost with a broad range of ethnic fare. —S.H. abv: 13.6% Price: $22 anything calling for a white wine. —S.H. abv: 14.2% Price: $39 abv: 14.1% Price: $14 Buena Vista 2011 Sauvignon Blanc (So- Murrieta’s Well 2011 The Whip White 88 noma County). This is dry, tart in acidity and Martin Ray 2011 Sauvignon Blanc (Rus- 87 Wine (Livermore Valley). A wisp of a white stimulating in lemongrass and pear flavors. It has a 85 sian River Valley). With some tart pink- blend, this is mostly Chardonnay and Sémillon, with 9% touch of New Zealand-style gooseberry, demonstrating grapefruit and lime flavors, this bone-dry Sauvignon Orange Muscat that comes through most powerfully a green-peppercorn-like grassiness. Try pairing it with Blanc is fine to drink now. The acidity gets the taste- and pleasantly on the nose. It’s a light wine that’s meant a goat cheese and thyme omelet for weekend brunch. buds watering. —S.H. to be enjoyed chilled. With its ripe stone-fruit flavors Editors’ Choice. —S.H. abv: 13.9% Price: $20 and minerality, it’s perfect for pairing with appetizers of abv: 13.5% Price: $13 all sorts. —V.B. Mirassou 2011 Sauvignon Blanc (Califor- abv: 12.5% Price: $19 Foxen 2011 7200 Vogelzang Vineyard 85 nia). A fairly simple wine, it’s rich in mouthwa- 87 Sauvignon Blanc (Happy Canyon of San- tering acidity, with ripe citrus, tropical fruit, melon and Spann Vineyards 2010 Betsy’s Back- ta Barbara). This savory young wine has forward fla- honey flavors. Unoaked, this should be versatile with a 87 acher (California). On its own, this is dry and vors of pineapples, Meyer lemons and green apple broad range of foods. —S.H. earthy, with a taste of Middle Eastern , apricots sauce. However, there’s a brisk, underlying minerality abv: 13% Price: $12 and oranges. It’s certainly offbeat, but it can certainly and great acidity, making the wine seem exceptionally be paired with food. How about hummus with teriyaki clean. Try pairing it with broiled or fried chicken and Kendall-Jackson 2011 Vintner’s Reserve salmon? —S.H. cole slaw. —S.H. 84 Sauvignon Blanc (California). There’s a abv: 14.3% Price: $17 abv: 14% Price: $28 seemingly sweet edge to the lemon, lime and vanilla fla- vors, which are fortunately balanced with crisp acidity. Halter Ranch 2011 Côtes de Paso Blanc Rutherford Hill 2011 Sauvignon Blanc Fans of richly styled white wines will like this bottling. 84 (Paso Robles). Fruity and seemingly sweet, 87 (Napa Valley). Nice, clean and brisk, this has —S.H. this blend of Rhône-style varieties has orange jam, flavors of lemongrass, white pepper, cream, butter and abv: 13.5% Price: $13 Asian pear and vanilla flavors. Good but simple, this just a hint of white flower. While it’s technically dry, should be versatile with picnic-type fare. —S.H. there’s lots of California-style ripe fruit. Easy to like as Emmolo 2011 Sauvignon Blanc (Napa abv: 14.2% Price: $24 an appetizer wine. —S.H. 83 Valley). This seems sweet in jammy pineap- abv: 13.7% Price: $22 ple and lemon fruit. It’s an easy wine, balanced by crisp Kitchen Sink NV Reserve White Table acidity and a clean finish. —S.H. 84 Wine (California). Made from a bunch of Star Lane Vineyard 2010 Estate Grown abv: 12.8% Price: $16 ­varieties, with a base of Viognier, this seems designed to 87 Sauvignon Blanc (Happy Canyon of San- appeal to the Moscato crowd. It seems almost as sweet ta Barbara). This is crisp in acidity, tasting slightly as a dessert wine, with apricot, tangerine and vanilla fla- sweet in citrus and apricot jam, with notes of green pep- WHITE BLENDS vors. —S.H. per and gooseberry that provide balancing complexity. Borra 2011 Intuition Field Blend White abv: 12.5% Price: $13 It has the versatility to pair with a wide range of foods, 89 (Lodi). This is a field blend of Kerner, Gewürz- including Asian-style fare and roasted chicken. —S.H. traminer and Rieslaner, what winemaker Markus Niggli OTHER WHITE WINES abv: 14.3% Price: $22 calls a “Swiss blend.” It opens with a great fleshy nose of pear and almond, showing off a strong foundation of Hendry 2011 Albariño (Napa Valley). Woodbridge by Robert Mondavi 2011 acidity. It’s perfectly dry, with a hint of sea-like saltiness. Even in the cool 2011 vintage, this wine really Sauvignon Blanc (California). For full re- 92 87 It almost tastes like Vermentino, but the musky lychee shines. It’s bone dry, low in alcohol and high in acid- view see page 13. Best Buy. note screams Gewürztraminer. —V.B. ity, making it a delicious accompaniment to a range of abv: 12.9% Price: $8 abv: 12.8% Price: $22 foods. Complex citrus, white flower and mineral flavors carry it over the goal line. This is one of the best Albari- Bernardus 2011 Sauvignon Blanc (Mon- Borra 2011 Fusion White Wine (Lodi). ños of the vintage. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. terey County). The flavors are nice and ripe, 86 Another eclectic white from Borra, this blend abv: 13.5% Price: $20 suggesting tropical fruits and zesty limes with a touch of 88 is 91% Viognier and 9% Gewürztraminer. It’s pungent honey, brightened by a cut of acidity. —S.H. with notes of apricot fuzz, grapefruit and honey, with a Uvaggio 2011 Vermentino (Lodi). Made abv: 13.6% Price: $18 deft floral finish. A light, well-made and refreshing wine, 92 from a hard-to-find variety in California, this this has sufficient acidity to pair with seafood —V.B. bright, beautifully aromatic wine expresses gorgeous Pont de Chevalier 2010 Sauvignon Blanc abv: 13.6% Price: $17 scents of jasmine that follow through in flavor to the fin- (Knights Valley). The chilly vintage took its 86 ish. Its layers of lime, apple and a generous level of min- toll on this wine, giving it a wintergreen-minty, grassy Elyse 2010 L’Ingenue Naggiar Vineyard erality are perfectly executed and waiting for seafood. taste that’s very strong, overlaying the lime and pink (Sierra Foothills). Stark and sharp at first, this Editors’ Choice. —V.B. grapefruit flavors. It’s very dry and crisp in acidity. 88 blend of Roussanne, Marsanne, Viognier and Grenache­ abv: 12.5% Price: $14 —S.H. Blanc is sophisticated, with notes of pear and stone abv: 14.3% Price: $40

WineMag.com | 49 Black Ridge 2010 Viognier (Santa Cruz with a tiny trace of petrol. It would make a fine apéritif, the game with this sparkling wine. It’s enormously at- 90 Mountains). This is a rich, ripe, forward Viog- particularly alongside oysters or shrimp. —V.B. tractive in strawberries and limes, vanilla bean, yeasty nier, with flashy bursts of peaches, pears, tropical fruits, abv: 13.4% Price: $13 dough and smoky flavors that finish a little sweet. The honeysuckle, vanilla, buttercream and toasty oak. It texture is pure silk and satin. This is a great expression straddles the dry-sweet border, with a good burst of of Arroyo Grande sparkling wine, and the price is well acidity. Pair it with pork in a sauce. —S.H. SPARKLING WINES worth it. —S.H. abv: 14.4% Price: $32 Iron Horse NV Joy! (Green Valley). For full abv: 12.5% Price: $35 review see page 3. Claiborne & Churchill 2011 Dry Riesling 97 Roederer Estate NV Brut (Anderson Val- abv: 13% Price: $189/1.5 L 90 (Edna Valley). It’s bone dry, with that famous 91 ley). This blend of 60% Chardonnay and 40% Edna Valley acidity, making for a mouthwatering wine. Iron Horse 2004 Chinese Cuvée (Green Pinot Noir is one of the best sparkling wines you’ll find The flavors are subtle but compelling, suggesting lem- 96 Valley). For full review see page 3. at this price. It’s stylishly dry and fancy, with yeasty lime, ons and limes and touches of papaya and white flowers. abv: 13.5% Price: $98 strawberry and vanilla flavors. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. A beautiful white wine to accompany an appetizer, at a abv: 12% Price: $23 very appealing price. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. Schramsberg 2005 J. Schram (Napa- abv: 12.5% Price: $18 95 Mendocino-Sonoma-Marin). For full re- Gloria Ferrer 2007 Blanc de Blancs view see page 4. Cellar Selection. 90 (Carneros). For full review see page 10. Birichino 2011 Malvasia Bianca (Mon- abv: 12.5% Price: $115 abv: 12.9% Price: $28 89 terey). Although it’s rich in honey-like flavors, the dry finish makes this more table wine than dessert Roederer Estate 2004 L’Ermitage Rosé Iron Horse 2007 Brut X (Green Valley). wine. With extraordinary acidity and flavors of tangerine 94 (Anderson Valley). The winery’s top rosé is 90 For full review see page 10. and vanilla, it’s delicious, but there’s a complexity that a Chardonnay-Pinot Noir blend. It shows equal parts abv: 13.5% Price: $50 will find wonderfully challenging to match limes, pears, strawberries and raspberries, reflecting its Roederer Estate NV Brut Rosé (Ander- with food. —S.H. parentage. What lifts it to greatness is the structure, so son Valley). From the yeasty, strawberry- abv: 13% Price: $15 refined and creamy, rich in acidity, with a yeasty bitter- 90 tinged aroma to the brisk, doughy mouthfeel through to ness. It has that hard to define quality of finesse that the honeyed, complex finish, this is a fine wine. It feels Foxen 2011 Ernesto Wickenden Old makes it gorgeous to drink now with the finest foods. beautiful, clean and stimulating, just as a sparkling wine 89 Vines Chenin Blanc (Santa Maria Valley). —S.H. Editors’ Choice. Foxen consistently makes one of the best Chenin Blancs abv: 12.1% Price: $70 should. —S.H. in California, and sells it at a fair price. This is a very abv: 12% Price: $28 nice wine, dry and crisp, with green apple, honey and Gloria Ferrer 2004 Late Disgorged Extra Iron Horse 2007 Brut Rosé (Green Val- citrus flavors, and a savory hint of green. —S.H. Brut Reserve Cuvée (Carneros). Lots to 93 ley). Even at five years old, this remains a abv: 13.6% Price: $25 like in this lovely sparkling wine, aged on the yeast for 89 young, vigorous but rather heavy sparkling wine. Made many years before being released. It shows a doughy mainly from Pinot Noir, with the remainder Chardon- Fenestra 2011 Silvaspoons Vineyard toastiness to the sunny, ripe raspberries, limes and va- nay, it has a dark salmon color and is strong in acidity, 87 Verdelho (Lodi). Fenestra, an estimable pro- nilla, and is silky in texture. Elegant and upscale, it’s at with raspberry, vanilla and dough flavors. The different ducer of obscure Spanish and Portugese varieties in its best now, so drink up. —S.H.

California, does not disappoint with this Verdelho. Like abv: 12.9% Price: $45 parts are not in harmony quite yet. Give it 3–5 years. a just-ripe pineapple, the wine is high in acidity and sa- —S.H. vory in strong tones of lemon and lime. Clean and fresh, Mumm Napa 2004 DVX (Napa Valley). abv: 13.5% Price: $50 it pairs well with seafood. —V.B. This is the winery’s highest quality wine, named 93 Mumm Napa NV Brut Rosé (Napa Valley). abv: 14.1% Price: $16 in honor of their late winemaker, Guy Devaux, who What an easy-to-drink, delicious bubbly this is. brought a Champagne sensibility to the brand. At the 89 With a golden salmon color, it’s rich in flavors of straw- Fenestra 2011 Ghielmetti Vineyard Semi- age of eight years, it’s softly complex and delicious in berry, raspberry, lime, vanilla and yeast. It finishes with 86 llon (Livermore Valley). With overtones of lime, raspberry, yeasty brioche and vanilla flavors. It has a subtle sweetness. Pair it with sushi, sashimi or ham- lemon, vanilla and oak, this fleshy Semillon tastes big that hard to define quality of finesse that makes a fine based dishes. —S.H. and needs strong flavors to complement its heft. The sparkling wine so special. —S.H. abv: 12.5% Price: $24 finish features a lingering richness. —V.B. abv: 12.5% Price: $65 abv: 14.2% Price: $15 Korbel NV Blanc de Noirs (California). Iron Horse 2007 Ocean Reserve (Green For full review see page 13. Best Buy. Sorelle Winery 2010 Grazia Pinot Grigio Valley). For full review see page 8. 88 92 abv: 12% Price: $13 86 (Lodi). A straightforward, subtle version of Pi- abv: 13.5% Price: $40 not Grigio, light in alcohol, a good choice as an apéritif Gloria Ferrer NV Va de Vi Ultra Cuvée or as an accompaniment to a light lunch. A lean lemon Iron Horse 2007 Russian Cuvée (Green (Sonoma County). This pretty, polished brut- quality dominates its flavors and aromas. —V.B. 92 Valley). For full review see page 8. 87 abv: 12.5% Price: $16 abv: 13.5% Price: $38 style bubbly offers vanilla, strawberry, lime, honey and toast flavors. It’s a little sweet, but the texture is very Villa Toscano 2011 White Barbera Laetitia 2008 Cuvée M (Arroyo Grande smooth, putting it in the league of more expensive spar- 86 (Shenandoah Valley). This bright, citrusy 92 Valley). There’s a honeyed accent to this spar- kling wines. —S.H. White Barbera has aromas and flavors of lemon, lime kler, with tangerine, lime, buttered toast and yeasty fla- abv: 12.5% Price: $22 and baked bread. Its balance and tropical fruit finish vors that are savory and complex. The mouthfeel is won- Iron Horse 2008 Wedding Cuvée (Green will please a crowd. —V.B. derfully soft and creamy. A great success for Laetitia, at Valley). Mainly Pinot Noir, with just 15% Char- abv: 12% Price: $20 a good price. —S.H. 87 abv: 12.5% Price: $35 donnay, this full-bodied bubbly has notes of seemingly Villa Toscano 2011 Pinot Grigio (Califor- sweet raspberries. The mouthfeel is slightly coarse. Still, 85 nia). This well-priced, light-bodied Pinot Gri- Laetitia 2007 Brut Coquard (Arroyo it shows plenty of elegance, and if you’re toasting the gio provides flavors of stone fruit—mostly apricot— Grande Valley). Deliciousness is the name of wedding couple, it’s just fine. —S.H. 92 abv: 13.5% Price: $38

50 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | DECEMBER 2012 Korbel NV Brut (California). For full review Korbel NV Sweet Rosé (California). As the Sorelle Winery 2011 Sogno Dolce Rosa- 87 see page 11. 86 label says, this is a sweet bubbly, but it’s not in- 87 to Sangiovese (Lodi). A robust rosato made abv: 12% Price: $13 sipid or cloying. Brisk acidity keeps the raspberry and from Sangiovese grapes, this wine has been saignéed vanilla flavors clean. Although it’s a little scoury, the and aged in oak for three months. It has a meaty edge Korbel NV Chardonnay (California). For price is right for a wine that’s so deliciously drinkable. about it. Medium-to-full in body, it tastes of ripe straw- 87 full review see page 12. —S.H. berry and watermelon. —V.B. abv: 12.5% Price: $13 abv: 12% Price: $13 abv: 13.5% Price: $16

Korbel 2010 Brut Made With Organically Laetitia 2009 Brut de Noirs (Arroyo Stein Family 2011 Magic Hour White 87 Grown Grapes (California). For full review 86 Grande Valley). This rich and forward spar- 85 Moscato (Lodi). Difficult to categorize, al- see page 11. Editors’ Choice. kling wine is fit for everyday drinking, with flavors of though the winery calls it a ”rosato,” this wine contains abv: 12% Price: $13 strawberry and raspberry parfait accompanied by a nice 86% white Moscato, but gets its red color from the ad- doughiness. It’s pretty scoury, though, which gives it an dition of 14% Cabernet Franc. Light and bright, with Korbel 2009 Natural (Russian River Val- abrasive mouthfeel. —S.H. a touch of sweetness (2.89% residual sugar), its flavors 87 ley). A nice brut-style sparkling wine, made abv: 12.5% Price: $28 veer toward ripe strawberry purée and dark plum. It re- from Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. It’s clean and crisp tains enough acidity to not taste cloying, though, and it in acidity, with seemingly sweet flavors of orange, lime, Laetitia 2008 Brut Rosé (Arroyo Grande is light in alcohol. —V.B. raspberry and dough. —S.H. 86 Valley). With its scoury, scratchy moutfeel, this abv: 11% Price: $20 abv: 12% Price: $16 wine lacks delicacy. But it is rich and layered in straw- berries and red raspberries, and is easy to drink. —S.H. Halter Ranch 2011 Rosé (Paso Robles). Laetitia 2009 Brut de Blancs (Arroyo abv: 12.5% Price: $28 82 With an off-putting orange color, this Rhône- 87 Grande Valley). This is a little rough and style blend seems sweet, with orange, apricot and va- scouring on the mouth, but otherwise a fine sparkling Barefoot Bubbly NV Pinot Grigio (Califor- nilla flavors. —S.H. wine. It’s rich and slightly sweet, with orange, lime, va- 85 nia). Scouring and sweet, this wine features fla- abv: 14.1% Price: $16 nilla and yeasty dough flavors. —S.H. vors of vanilla, yeast and ripe lemon meringue. It is easy abv: 12.5% Price: $28 to drink with almost anything, at price fit for everyday enjoyment. —S.H. PINOT NOIR Mumm Napa NV Brut Prestige (Napa Val- abv: 11.5% Price: $11 Flowers 2010 Sea View Ridge Estate ley). There’s plenty of fanciness in this rich 87 Vineyard Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). For bubbly, with raspberry, strawberry, lime and vanilla fla- Biltmore NV Blanc de Blancs (Russian 98 full review see page 3. vors and that famous yeasty doughiness that character- River Valley). The scouring mouthfeel of this 85 abv: 14% Price: $70 izes good sparkling wine. Brisk in acidity, it’s a little on wine is its biggest issue. Although it’s dryish and creamy, the sweet side, but very clean. —S.H. with pleasant flavors of dough, lime, orange and vanilla, Flowers 2010 Camp Meeting Ridge Es- abv: 12.5% Price: $22 its roughness limits its score. —S.H. tate Vineyard Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). abv: 12.5% Price: $25 96 Barefoot Bubbly NV Moscato Spumante This wine is an absolute joy to drink, and such a great expression of its Sonoma Coast vineyard. Its dryness, (California). For full review see page 13. Best Gloria Ferrer NV Blanc de Noirs (Carne- 86 acidity and minerality highlight its terroir. Its texture Buy. ros). This seemingly sweet wine shows lots 85 is light and silky. Yet it’s immensely complex in flavors, abv: 10.5% Price: $11 of ripe, rich raspberries and vanilla, with a nice yeasty suggesting red cherry, licorice and exotic spices that are doughiness. Yet there’s good acidity, and the finish is so rich, they’re almost sweet in the finish. A tremendous Barefoot Bubbly NV Pink Moscato (Cali- very clean. —S.H. Pinot Noir for drinking now, and it should develop in 86 fornia). For full review see page 14. Best Buy. abv: 12.9% Price: $20 abv: 9.5% Price: $11 the bottle for a decade. —S.H. Gloria Ferrer NV Sonoma Brut (Sonoma abv: 14% Price: $75 Iron Horse 2007 Classic Vintage Brut County). A bit rough and scouring in texture, 85 Dutton Estate 2010 Karmen Dut- 86 (Green Valley). Pleasant and tasty, this has this tastes too sweet. Its orange and strawberry notes ton Ranch Pinot Noir (Russian River Val- the raspberry, lime, dough and smoke flavors typical of have a sugary edge. It’s an easy bubbly to drink at par- 93 ley). This instantly delicious wine shows classic Russian a fine California sparkling wine. It’s a little scoury, espe- ties. —S.H. River structure of firm tannins and brisk acidity, with cially by the standards of Iron Horse, with a sand­papery abv: 12.5% Price: $20 roughness to its bubbles. Drink it now, well chilled. a light, silky mouthfeel framing flavors of ripe raspber- —S.H. Korbel NV Sweet Cuvée (California). This ry, cherry, vanilla, mint, roasted almond and sweet oak. abv: 13.5% Price: $38 84 bubbly is on the sweet side. It has sugary pine- Drink it within the next five years for maximum enjoy- apple and orange flavors. A little scoury in texture, it’s ment. —S.H. abv: 14.6% Price: $40 Korbel NV Brut Rosé (California). This an easy sparkling wine to drink with sweet foods, like 86 pleasant bubbly seems sweet and crisp, featur- wedding cake. —S.H. Dutton-Goldfield 2010 McDougall Vine- ing flavors of raspberry, strawberry, vanilla and yeast. abv: 12% Price: $13 With a rich copper color, it’s an affordable sparkling 93 yard Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). This suc- wine to drink with sushi. —S.H. cessful Pinot Noir from a difficult vintage treads an ex- abv: 12% Price: $13 ROSÉS citing line: It contains subtle notes of tomato and beet- root, but that vegetativeness only adds an earthy com- Birichino 2011 Vin Gris Rosé (California). Korbel NV Extra Dry (California). Not as plexity to the ripe flavors of black cherry and plum. It’s 86 dry as the name suggests, this offering seems 91 One of the more successful rosés of the year, a fancy, elegant wine to drink now, and should gain trac- fairly sweet, with sugary lime, orange and vanilla flavors. this wine looks to Provence for inspiration. It has a pret- tion over the next 5–6 years. —S.H. You’ll find a rich streak of doughy yeast and acidity, giv- ty partridge-eye color, and is light-bodied, dry and crisp abv: 13.5% Price: $58 ing it that typical Champagne note. —S.H. in acidity, with complex herb, citrus, apricot and vanilla abv: 12% Price: $13 flavors. It will pair deliciously with fish stews, ham or Flowers 2010 Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). pesto pasta. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. 93 This wine seems fruity, sweet and pure, with abv: 13% Price: $15 wonderfully bracing acidity and gentle tannins. The

WineMag.com | 51 mouthfeel is light and graceful. Its notes of raspberry a more delicate style, yet its persimmon flavor is very Chamisal Vineyards 2010 Califa Pinot and smoky oak make it amazingly drinkable. —S.H. powerful. Fully drinkable now, after decanting, it will 89 Noir (Edna Valley). There’s lots of brisk acid- abv: 14% Price: $50 last in the cellar for 4–5 years. —S.H. ity in this bone-dry Pinot, which gives it a mouthwater- abv: 13.5% Price: $58 ing tartness. Coupled with raspberry and cherry fruit, it Gallo Signature Series 2010 Pinot Noir has a sour candy taste, which is relieved by smoky oak. 93 (Santa Lucia Highlands). For full review see Jeriko 2011 Reserve Pinot Noir (Men- It’s light bodied, but it maintains a certain elegance. Try page 6. Editors’ Choice. 91 docino). Beautifully light in color and texture, it with tuna tartare. —S.H. abv: 14.8% Price: $35 this silky Pinot Noir is deliciously adorned by rose petal abv: 14.1% Price: $60 and ripe red-cherry notes, followed by a depth of rasp- Dutton Estate 2010 Jewell Block Vine- berry and earth flavors. Made from certified-biodynam- Dutton Estate 2010 Thomas Road Vine- 92 yard Dutton Ranch Pinot Noir (Russian ic grapes, this young wine bodes well for the 2011 vin- 89 yard - Dutton Ranch Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). Right out of the bottle, this wine is tage across Mendocino. —V.B. River Valley). This Pinot is very rich in flavor, maybe closed, but after a little while, notes of mushroom and abv: 13.8% Price: $38 too much so. It features a blast of jammy raspberry and balsam emerge. In the mouth, the wine features deep cherry, with heavy cola syrup and smoky, oaky vanilla. pomegranate and persimmon, those earthy red fruits so Mount Eden 2010 Estate Bottled Pinot Though certainly delicious and refined, it is a bit one- characteristic of a cool climate Pinot Noir. The structure 91 Noir (Santa Cruz Mountains). This wine dimensional. Drink it soon. —S.H. is very good, with firm tannins and brisk acidity. Give feels angular, as if the flavors of raspberry and sour cher- abv: 14.4% Price: $50 this youthful wine 2–3 years in the bottle. —S.H. ry candy had gotten a squeeze of lime for extra zesti- abv: 14.1% Price: $53 ness. The tannins are rich and pronounced, and the fin- Schug 2010 Schug Estate Pinot Noir ish is splendidly dry. Give it six years in the cellar. Cel- 89 (Carneros). Light bodied, tart and elegant, Dutton Estate 2010 Manzana Vineyard lar Selection. —S.H. this is fine to drink now with tuna or steak tartare. It’s 92 Dutton Ranch Pinot Noir (Russian River abv: 13.5% Price: $60 bone dry, sleek and brisk in acidity, with Dr. Pepper and Valley). This tastes ripe, fruity and forward, with notes red licorice flavors leading to a complex, spicy finish. of raspberry jam, vanilla bean, flat Dr. Pepper, baking Roadhouse Winery 2010 Purple Label —S.H. pie spice and smoky sandalwood. Extravagant and opu- 91 Pinot Noir (Sonoma Mountain). The west- abv: 14.5% Price: $40 lent, it’s a lovely Pinot Noir to drink now, though its deli- ern slopes of Sonoma Mountain, hit by cool maritime cate balance of tannin, acid and alcohol should hold in breezes, are ideal for Pinot Noir, although little is grown Bernardus 2010 Rosella’s Vineyard Pinot the bottle over the next six years. —S.H. there. This excellent example is dry and in structure and 88 Noir (Santa Lucia Highlands). So ripe and abv: 14.5% Price: $45 enormously dense in flavor, offering masses of cherry decadent, it is perhaps the wine equivalent of a candy pie filling, plum sauce, sandalwood and spice that are a bar, with raspberry, cherry, red currant, vanilla and cin- Etude 2009 Estate Grown Pinot Noir touch hot in alcohol. —S.H. namon flavors. Pinot doesn’t get any tastier than this, 92 (Carneros). There’s a toughness to this wine abv: 14.9% Price: $48 but it does get more complex. Still, this is fancy enough that makes it hard to appreciate now, but it will soften to drink over the next six years with steak, duck, tuna or with some time in the cellar. Dry, silky and tannic, it fea- Bernardus 2010 Pisoni Vineyard Pinot lamb. —S.H. tures an enormous black-cherry flavor, with consider- 90 Noir (Santa Lucia Highlands). Showcasing abv: 14.5% Price: $60 able oak overtones. It is an altogether impressive wine. the Pisoni signature of huge, bold fruit, this wine has Given its fine structure, it should develop over the next ripe and savory flavors of raspberry, cherry, pomegran- Bernardus 2010 Soberanes Vineyard Pi- 6–8 years. Cellar Selection. —S.H. ate, persimmon. The wine tastes of oak, too, in the form 88 not Noir (Santa Lucia Highlands). Big, abv: 14.4% Price: $42 of vanilla and smoky butter. It’s a delicious wine. Give bold flavors of cherry pie, red currant, toasty oak and va- it six years in a good cellar. Cellar Selection. —S.H. nilla mark this ripe, tasty Pinot. It has broad appeal, suc- MacRostie 2009 Pinot Noir (Sonoma abv: 14.4% Price: $65 cessfully made for a palate that likes accessibile wines 92 Coast). For full review see page 8. that seem sweet and fruity. —S.H. abv: 14.2% Price: $34 Saracina 2010 Klindt Vineyard Pinot Noir abv: 14.2% Price: $55 90 (Anderson Valley). Right out of the bottle, Roadhouse Winery 2010 Black Label Pi- this bone-dry Pinot is brittle and mute, so give it a good Domaine Eden 2010 Pinot Noir (Santa 92 not Noir (Sonoma Coast). The cool 2010 long decant to let the air mellow it. Eventually, it re- 88 Cruz Mountains). Here’s a nice, dry Pinot vintage has allowed Roadhouse to express its focused leases plenty of sour-raspberry-candy, mushroom and from Mount Eden Vineyards ideal for drinking now. and elegant approach to Pinot Noir with great success. plum-sauce flavors that finish rich and spicy. —S.H. It’s gentle in the mouth, with soft tannins and a boost Black Label is a small-production barrel selection. Silky abv: 13.8% Price: $38 of acidity to highlight the raspberry and cola flavors. and delicate in the mouth, it features dramatically lay- —S.H. ered flavors: cola, exotic spice, sweet red cherry and ripe Testarossa 2010 Doctor’s Vineyard Pi- abv: 13.5% Price: $35 raspberry. It’s a little hot on the finish, which limits its 90 not Noir (Santa Lucia Highlands). This is score. —S.H. a classic example of the Testarossa style, which features Schug 2010 Pinot Noir (Carneros). A rich, abv: 14.5% Price: $55 upfront, delicious fruit and instant drinkability. Here, 88 vital Pinot Noir, nice for drinking now with you’ll find ripe, spicy raspberry and cherry, brightened steak or lamb. It’s elegant and modest and will playing a Roadhouse Winery 2010 Green Label Pi- by crisp coastal acidity and enhanced by a touch of supporting role to your food. Acidic and dry, it features 92 not Noir (Sonoma Coast). This wine shows smoky oak. Drink it now. —S.H. subtle flavors of sour cherry candy, pomegranate amd its cool, coastal terroir in its brisk acidity, delicate struc- abv: 14.5% Price: $50 exotic spice. —S.H. ture and silky mouthfeel. You can taste the long, cool abv: 14.5% Price: $28 growing season in tart, refined flavors of cherry pie, per- Urban Legend 2010 Pinot Noir (Carner- simmon and cranberry candy. —S.H. 90 os). A lovely Pinot Noir, light in body and silky Sierra Madre 2010 Estate Pinot Noir abv: 14.4% Price: $48 in texture, with very powerful flavors. It kicks in with 87 (Santa Maria Valley). The vineyard is legend- cherry pie filling, cola, white pepper and sandalwood, ary, but the brand has struggled to define itself for years. Dutton-Goldfield 2010 Fox Den Vineyard and feels creamy throughout, with brisk coastal acid- This 2010 is rich in raspberry, cherry and oak, but it is 91 Pinot Noir (Green Valley). The cool vintage ity. Its modest alcohol makes it a versatile Pinot Noir. a little heavy-handed. After a brief decant, it’s ready to in the Russian River Valley has resulted in a very dry, —S.H. drink now. —S.H. acidic young wine, one so transparent in texture, you abv: 13.7% Price: $38 abv: 14.5% Price: $40 can practically taste the minerals of the soil. It defines

52 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | DECEMBER 2012 Alexander Valley Vineyards 2010 Wetzel hot taste. Try it with beef and prunes to echo the vor. It tastes sugary-sweet all through the finish. It was 86 Family Estate Pinot Noir (Alexander Val- flavors. —S.H. tasted twice. —S.H. ley). This Pinot is ripe in jammy cherry fruit, and it has abv: 14.9% Price: $48 abv: 14.5% Price: $26 a smoky, buttery richness from oak. But it’s a little soft and heavy for the variety, which is perhaps to be expect- Schug 2010 Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). ed given its Alexander Valley origin. —S.H. 85 A thin, country-style Pinot Noir, light in col- CABERNETS & BLENDS abv: 14% Price: $28 or and body and tart in acidity. The flavors are very Chimney Rock 2009 Ganymede Vineyard dry, suggesting cranberry, cola and sour cherry candy. Cabernet Sauvignon (Stags Leap Dis- Bernardus 2010 Sierra Mar Vineyard Pi- —S.H. 96 trict). Delicious, stunning and dramatic, this varietal not Noir (Santa Lucia Highlands). This abv: 13.5% Price: $24 86 Cabernet shows exquisite balance of its many parts. The tastes and feels a little heavy and sweet, with prominent tannins are fierce but refined; the dryness complements cherry candy flavors. It’s quite tasty, but one-dimension- Educated Guess 2010 Pinot Noir (Carne- flavors of ripe blackberry, black currant and dark choco- al in its appeal. Drink now—it’s hard to see it devloping ros). Oak-barrel aging dominates this wine, 84 late; its smoky oak is subtle; a refreshing acidity provides much in the bottle. —S.H. swamping the aromas and flavors with buttered toast life and zest. The overall impression is of an extraor- abv: 14.7% Price: $55 and caramel that would be more pleasing in a Chardon- dinarily fine wine, drinkable now but capable of aging nay. The underlying wine is dry and silky, with red cher- over many years. —S.H. Dutton-Goldfield 2010 Devil’s Gulch ry fruit brightened by zesty acidity. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $125 86 Vineyard Pinot Noir (Marin County). Not abv: 14.5% Price: $25 fully ripe, this has a flavor of green tomato jelly along- Chimney Rock 2009 Tomahawk Vineyard Nuggucciet 2010 Pinot Noir (Santa Ma- side notes of cherry and cola. It shows the delicate tex- Cabernet Sauvignon (Stags Leap Dis- ture and crisp acidity you expect from this coastal vine- ria Valley). Accompanying the raspberry and 96 84 trict). This is so charming now, it’s hard to keep from yard, but don’t try to age this wine. Drink it now. —S.H. cranberry are green mint and vegetal notes. Made from drinking it. But it also has the dynamic tension to age abv: 13.5% Price: $58 a single vineyard, it shows a nice silkiness and dryness, well. Chimney Rock enters a whole new ballgame with with crisp acidity, but that lack of generosity lowers its its 2009 releases, which can stand against almost any- Goyette 2010 Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coun- score. —S.H. thing in Napa Valley. With a fleshy mouthfeel, softly ty). You’ll find some good cherry, vanilla, cola abv: 14.8% Price: $30 86 sculpted tannins and complex flavors of blackberry, cas- and sandalwood flavors in this dry Pinot Noir. It’s on sis, dark chocolate and plum sauce, this wine is deca- the light side, but is modest in alcohol, with an elegant Talbott 2010 Sleepy Hollow Vineyard Pi- dently delicious. Drink now–2020. —S.H. mouthfeel. —S.H. not Noir (Santa Lucia Highlands). The 84 abv: 14.5% Price: $135 abv: 14.2% Price: $25 vineyard is in one of the coolest growing areas in the state, and the 2010 vintage was unusually chilly. The Knights Bridge 2009 Beckstoffer To Gundlach Bundschu 2010 Estate Vine- result is a wine with a vegetal note. The greenness is Kalon Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon yard Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). This just powerful enough to lower the score and certainly 96 86 (Napa Valley). For full review see page 3. dark, heavy Pinot Noir is surprisingly soft for a Sonoma to prevent ageability. This wine was tasted twice, with abv: 15.5% Price: $135 Coast bottling, despite its rich layers of black cherry consistent results. —S.H. abv: 14.9% Price: $40 pie, licorice, cola and smoky sandalwood. Drink it now. Chimney Rock 2009 Elevage (Stags —S.H. Leap District). A classic Napa Valley Bor- abv: 14.4% Price: $35 McManis 2011 Pinot Noir (California). 95 deaux blend, dry, smooth, complex and elegant. Based This feels rustic in the mouth, with edgy tan- 83 on Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon, it’s an instant pleas- Rossi Wallace 2011 Pinot Noir (Napa Val- nins and a streak of green mint. Still, it’s dry and silky, er, from the dryness and mellow texture to the delicious ley). The wine’s greenness shows its cool Atlas with enough raspberry and cherry fruit to satisfy. —S.H. 86 blackberry, cassis, plum, dark chocolate and smoky oak Peak origins as well as the lack of ripeness in the chilly abv: 13.5% Price: $11 flavors. It will provide wonderful drinking over many vintage. It tastes of mint-inflected raspberry tea, and is years. —S.H. very dry. —S.H. Talbott 2010 Kali Hart Pinot Noir (Mon- abv: 14.5% Price: $79 abv: 14.4% Price: $28 83 terey). Acidic and minty, this Pinot Noir just doesn’t have enough richness, despite some modest Hidden Ridge 2007 Impassable Moun- Birichino 2011 Saint Georges Pinot Noir cherry and cola flavors. Its dry and silky qualities are tain Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon (So- (Central Coast). Pretty good for the price, pleasant. —S.H. 95 85 noma County). For full review see page 4. Cellar although in Pinot Noir, the old adage of you-get-what- abv: 14.2% Price: $21 Selection. you-pay-for remains true. It’s simple, with a flavor abv: 14.9% Price: $75 of oak-infused raspberry jam and lots of zesty acidity. Mirassou 2011 Pinot Noir (California). Simple and seemingly sweet, this wine has pink- —S.H. 82 Knights Bridge 2009 Beckstoffer Dr. abv: 13.5% Price: $21 bubblegum and cherry-vanilla flavors, brightened by fo- Crane Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon cused acidity. It gets across the basic idea of Pinot Noir. 95 (Napa Valley). For full review see page 4. Cellar Se- Buena Vista 2010 Pinot Noir (Sonoma —S.H. lection. County). Pretty good for its price, this wine abv: 13.5% Price: $12 85 abv: 15.5% Price: $135 shows classic Pinot character in its light, silky mouth- Talbott 2010 Logan Pinot Noir (Santa Lu- feel and zesty flavors of cherry and ripe persimmon. Al- Sequoia Grove 2008 Cambium (Napa though it’s a little too sweet, many consumers will like cia Highlands). There’s a green, vegetal un- 82 Valley). For full review see page 4. Cellar Se- that. —S.H. ripeness to this wine that suggests asparagus. The cool 95 lection. abv: 13.5% Price: $15 vintage simply didn’t provide enough warmth to ripen abv: 14.4% Price: $125 the grapes, though the alcohol still manages to be quite Roadhouse Winery 2010 Orange Label high, which gives the wine a hot feeling. —S.H. Viader 2009 Red (Napa Valley). For full re- Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). Dry and abv: 14.9% Price: $25 85 95 view see page 4. silky, this is a good Pinot Noir, though it’s a little too ripe, abv: 14.3% Price: $115 which gives the blackberry and cherry notes a pruny, Thomas Scott 2010 Grand Reserve Pinot 82 Noir (Russian River Valley). Simple and sharp in acidity, this Pinot has a jammy raspberry fla-

WineMag.com | 53 Bell 2008 Clone 6 Unfiltered Cabernet and check up on it; this could be really something in Jarvis 2008 Lake William Estate Grown 94 Sauvignon (Rutherford). Made from 100% 2025. Cellar Selection. —S.H. 92 Cave Fermented (Napa Valley). For full re- Cabernet grown in the Beckstoffer Georges III Vine- abv: 15% Price: $125 view see page 8. Cellar Selection. yard, and aged in mostly new French and American oak, abv: 14.7% Price: $155 its tannins are tough as nails. Yet there’s a vast core of Macauley 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon blackberry and black cherry fruit that’s just yearning to 93 (Napa Valley). Although it’s soft, it shows Liparita 2009 V Block Cabernet Sauvi- break out. With modest alcohol (the official reading is a enough structure to support exceptionally ripe black- 92 gnon (Yountville). For full review see page 8. mere 13.2% by volume), it’s a natural choice for the cel- berry, black currant and spice flavors, with richness add- Cellar Selection. lar. It should begin to blossom by 2016 and continue to ed by a heady note of liqueur. The tannins are substan- abv: 14.7% Price: $60 develop beyond 2020. Cellar Selection. —S.H. tial, and the wine is already throwing some sediment. abv: 13.2% Price: $120 Very nice now, and it should develop bottle nuance over Provenance Vineyards 2009 Three Palms the next 6–8 years. —S.H. 92 Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Val- Hunnicutt 2009 9-3-5 Cabernet Sauvi- abv: 14.8% Price: $72 ley). This famous vineyard in Calistoga always produc- 94 gnon (Napa Valley). This barrel selection es red wines with gigantic, hard tannins, and so it is with aptly defines Hunnicutt’s style of ripe, sweetly con- Sequoia Grove 2008 Lamoreaux Vine- this ’09 Cab. It’s so astringent that it’s not drinkable now. centrated fruit. It’s enormous in blackberry and cherry 93 yards Oak Knoll Ranch Cabernet Sau- Such is the core of blackberries, black cherries and cur- notes, yet has layers of herb, spice and oak that prevent vignon (Napa Valley). Fine and pure, this is a very rants, though, that the wine should age effortlessly over it from being a mere fruit bomb. Sourced from St. Hel- good representative of Oak Knoll. The vintage had lots the next 8–10 years. Cellar Selection. —S.H. ena, Rutherford and Oakville grapes, it’s a fancy wine to of warmth, coaxing ripe blackberry and currant flavors abv: 14.2% Price: $75 drink over the next eight years with great beef entrées. from the grapes, while preserving dryness, vital tannins —S.H. and crisp acid structure. Overall, it is elegant and lus- Ravenswood 2008 Pickberry (Sonoma abv: 14.6% Price: $125 cious. Good as it is now, give this at least six years. Cel- 92 Mountain). There’s an interesting and complex lar Selection. —S.H. tannin structure to this bone-dry, Merlot-based Bor- Jarvis 2009 Will Jarvis’ Science Project abv: 14.4% Price: $90 deaux blend, grown in the little known but high-quality 94 (Napa Valley). For full review see page 5. Sonoma Mountain appellation of Sonoma County. With abv: 13.7% Price: $125 Sequoia Grove 2008 Morisoli Vineyard an earthiness to the wild blackberry and blueberry fla- 93 Cabernet Sauvignon (Rutherford). This vors, it’s a bit edgy and coarse, but that’s a function of Sequoia Grove 2008 Stagecoach Vine- wine shows the soft, dusty tannins and sour red cherry youth. Give it a good eight years and see how it’s doing. 94 yard Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). fruit that the vineyard is known for, while more than Cellar Selection. —S.H. For full review see page 5. Cellar Selection. four years have mellowed it to beautiful drinkability. abv: 13.7% Price: $50 abv: 14.4% Price: $90 Should continue to develop in the cellar for another 10 years or so. —S.H. Rodney Strong 2009 Alexander’s Crown Alexander Valley Vineyards 2008 Cyrus abv: 14.4% Price: $90 92 Cabernet Sauvignon (Alexander Valley). 93 (Alexander Valley). For full review see page For full review see page 8. Cellar Selection. 5. Chateau St. Jean 2008 Cinq Cépages abv: 15.5% Price: $75 abv: 14.4% Price: $60 92 (Sonoma County). This is bold and asser- tive, yet mellow. Dominated by Cabernet Sauvignon, it Summers 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon Hunnicutt 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon shows the house style of soft approachability and com- 92 (Calistoga). For full review see page 8. Cel- 93 (Napa Valley). Superbly ripe, with gorgeous plexity, offering tiers of blackberry, currant, sage, dried lar Selection. blackberry jam, crème de cassis and toasted oak flavors. herb and smoky oak. Drink now–2015. —S.H. abv: 14.1% Price: $32 It defines the modern style of Cabernet. Although it’s abv: 14.4% Price: $75 very tannic, its richness will tempt you to drink it right Jean Edwards 2009 Stagecoach Vine- away. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. Chimney Rock 2009 Alpine Vineyard 91 yard Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). abv: 14.5% Price: $50 92 Cabernet Sauvignon (Stags Leap Dis- This wine shows its pedigreed terroir in the purity of trict). A gorgeous 100% Cabernet, rich and mellow, sweetly ripe blackberry and currant flavors, dryness, Knights Bridge 2009 Cabernet Sauvi- with classic blackberry and cassis flavors. It’s one of the and the quality its of tannins. The latter are rich, strong 93 gnon (Knights Valley). For full review see winery’s softer ’09 Cabs, which may limit its ageability. and elaborate. As good as it is, however, the astringency page 6. Although it’s pretty tannic, you can decant it and drink makes it too young to enjoy now. Aging is not a certainty abv: 15.5% Price: $115 it now with fancy food, or cellar it for up to six years. given the softness, but give it 5–6 years and see what —S.H. happens. Cellar Selection. —S.H. Liparita 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon abv: 14.5% Price: $85 abv: 14.2% Price: $65 93 (Oakville). For full review see page 6. abv: 14.9% Price: $60 Hoopes 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon Joseph Cellars 2008 Cabernet Sauvi- 92 (Oakville). For full review see page 7. Cellar 91 gnon (Calistoga). With vigorous blackberry, Macauley 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon Selection. black currant, dark chocolate and oak flavors, this wine 93 (Napa Valley). For full review see page 7. Cel- abv: 14.9% Price: $65 certainly tastes young. The tannins are strong, and lar Selection. there’s a primary-fruit sweetness that needs some time abv: 14.8% Price: $72 Hypothesis 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon to settle. It’s finely constructed enough that 6–8 years 92 (Napa Valley). For full review see page 7. in a good cellar doesn’t seem to be a risk. Cellar Selec- Macauley 2009 Beckstoffer To Kalon abv: 15% Price: $40 tion. —S.H. 93 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). abv: 14.9% Price: $70 There’s a very fine wine lurking inside this bottle, but In Re 2009 You Be The Judge Cabernet right now, everything’s disjointed. There are big tannins 92 Sauvignon (Napa Valley). A beautiful Cab- Rodney Strong 2009 Symmetry Red Mer- over here, oak over there, and sandwiched in between ernet, rich, ripe and softly delicious, with flavors of 91 itage (Alexander Valley). For full review see are huge, intense flavors of blackberry, blueberry and blackberry, cherry, cassis and mocha. The tannins are page 9. cassis liqueur. It’s nowhere near ready, but there’s no soft, the oak-driven flavors sweet. It’s perfect for drink- abv: 15% Price: $55 reason why this dramatic young wine shouldn’t come to- ing now with a great steak. —S.H. gether and improve over the years. Cellar it until 2017 abv: 14.7% Price: $65

54 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | DECEMBER 2012 Silver Oak 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon (Al- ble. While it doesn’t seem to be age worthy, it will drink Spann Vineyards 2009 Four Barrels Top 91 exander Valley). This lovely wine shows the well over the next 2–3 years. —S.H. 89 of the World Cabernet Sauvignon (So- soft tannins and herbaceousness you often find in Al- abv: 14.9% Price: $55 noma Valley). There’s lots of spicy, fruity richness exander Valley Cabernet Sauvignons. That dried herb in this softly tannic Cabernet. It’s lush and forward taste accompanies blackberry and black currant fruit. Sequoia Grove 2009 Rutherford Bench in flavors of blackberry and cherry pie, currant, plum It’s classic Silver Oak, dry and elegant. Drink now–2016. 90 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon (Ruther- and cola. In the winter, give it a brief decant, but if the —S.H. ford). Delicious and drinkable now, after decanting, for weather’s warm, you can even chill it for 15 minutes in abv: 13.9% Price: $70 its softly ripe black cherry, currant, dried herb and spice the fridge: It’s that kind of wine. —S.H. flavors. The tannins are hefty, but not too much for a abv: 14.2% Price: $50 Tyler Florence 2008 TF Cab Cabernet fine steak to negotiate. It shows the fancy structure and 91 Sauvignon (Napa Valley). This strong, mouthfeel you associate with a great Rutherford Cab- Grgich Hills 2008 Yountville Selection brawny wine is fuzzy in tannins and brambly in wild ernet. —S.H. 88 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). While blackberry and cassis flavors. There’s a sweetness to it abv: 14.4% Price: $65 this Cabernet is very rich and ripe in flavors of black- that suggests liqueur, though the finish is dry. The new berry and cherry jam, crème de cassis and new oak, it’s oak is strong but proportionate to the wine’s inherent Tudal 2010 50/50 Cabernet Sauvignon also very tannic. That bite of astringency gives it a rustic volume. Entirely drinkable now, despite its power, with 90 (Napa-Sonoma). A succulent Cabernet to note. A very high, Port-like alcohol level may or may not a great grilled steak, but if you have a cellar, try stashing drink now. Using fruit sourced from two counties, it’s thwart cellaring plans. —S.H. it for six years. —S.H. rich and ripe in blackberry jam, dark chocolate, anise abv: 15.4% Price: $150 abv: 14.4% Price: $65 and oak flavors, with a firm supporting jacket of tannins. It gets better as it breathes in the glass. Although it’s not Joseph Cellars 2009 Cabernet Sauvi- Chimney Rock 2009 Clone 7 Cabernet an ager, it’s soft, lovely and complex. —S.H. 88 gnon (Napa Valley). This is a bit hard and ag- 90 Sauvignon (Stags Leap District). A very abv: 14% Price: $28 gressive now, with a punch of green tannins. That makes good wine, soft and mellow, with a dry finish despite it hard to appreciate the underlying oaky, ripe blackber- plenty of sweetly ripe fruit. With raspberry, cherry, red Domaine Eden 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon ry and currant fruit. It doesn’t seem to have the inherent licorice and toasty oak flavors, it’s delicious. Drink soon 89 (Santa Cruz Mountains). Scratchy, dusty balance necessary for aging, so give it a decanting and alongside a steak, possibly topped with a plum-and-ber- tannins frame this Cabernet, giving it a rustic mouth- drink it now. —S.H. ry salsa. —S.H. feel. The flavors of candied blackberry and cherry are abv: 14.8% Price: $70 abv: 14.5% Price: $80 very rich and intense, with an overlay of smoky oak. Drink now. —S.H. Spann Vineyards 2009 Cross Creek Vine- Grgich Hills 2009 Estate Grown Cabernet abv: 13.8% Price: $35 88 yard Cabernet Sauvignon (Sonoma Val- 90 Sauvignon (Napa Valley). For full review ley). This is a fine Cabernet, with ripe berry, cherry and see page 10. Justin 2009 Isosceles (Paso Robles). This cola flavors, tinged with smoky oak. The tannins are firm abv: 14.6% Price: $60 89 Bordeaux blend is mainly Cabernet Sauvignon, but pliant, making it drinkable now, though it could de- with a splash of Cabernet Franc and Merlot. It’s rich in velop bottle complexity over the years. —S.H. Lancaster 2009 Estate Cabernet Sauvi- flavors of chocolate, blackberry and currant essence and abv: 14.2% Price: $50 90 gnon (Alexander Valley). This is almost un- oak, wrapped into tannins that are soft and smooth but drinkable now, despite its fantastically rich blackberry, firm. Delicious now, but precocious, all flash and sizzle. Summers 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon blueberry and cassis flavors. The tannins are substantial, Give it 5–6 years in the cellar to develop some bottle 88 (Knights Valley). So peppery and spicy, with and the acidity sticks out like a squirt of lime juice. All complexity. Cellar Selection. —S.H. such a briary mouthfeel, this wine could almost be Zin- of its elements are good, but it needs time—as much as abv: 15.5% Price: $62 fandel. Even though it’s not particularly Cabernet-ish, a decade and possibly longer. Cellar Selection. —S.H. it’s still quite a nice wine, rich, complex in tannin and abv: 14.6% Price: $75 Mueller Family Vineyards 2009 Cabernet dry. Drink over the next few years. —S.H. 89 Sauvignon (Diamond Mountain). Though abv: 14.1% Price: $38 Lyeth 2010 Chronology Cabernet Sauvi- lower in price and quality than the previous vintage, this 90 gnon (Sonoma County). This is a good price is a very good Cabernet. Rich and ripe in blackberry, Alexander Valley Vineyards 2010 Cab- for a Cab so rich and supple. It’s very deep in flavor, currant, chocolate and intense new oak, it’s flashy in the 87 ernet Franc (Alexander Valley). Soft, juicy with flavors of blackberry pie filling, milk chocolate, an- modern way, but it’s a bit soft. Drink now. —S.H. and uncomplicated, this Cab Franc immediately offers ise and sweet oak, yet it’s softly balanced and dry. Just abv: 14.4% Price: $46 likeable cherry and sweet oak flavors. The tannins beg delicious for drinking now. —S.H. for steak. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $30 Schug 2008 Heritage Reserve Cabernet abv: 14% Price: $24 89 Sauvignon (Sonoma Valley). A rich, ripe Mount Eden 2008 Estate Bottled Caber- Cabernet, forward in blackberry and cherry jam flavors. Caricature 2010 Red (California). This has 90 net Sauvignon (Santa Cruz Mountains). A hint of dried herb grounds it and provides a level of 87 a lively, whimsical label and some very good Tough and tannic, this is made in a more aggressive style complexity, as does a touch of smoky cedar from oak juice within. A blend of 84% Cabernet Sauvignon and than many of today’s Cabernets. There’s a rich, intense barrel aging. It’s not an ager, but it is fancy and delicious 16% Zinfandel, it is intoxicatingly perfumed like cotton core of blackberry jam that suggests superbly ripe fruit, now. —S.H. candy. Otherwise jammy, with dark cherry and black- and the oak is well integrated. Those tannins make it abv: 14.5% Price: $50 berry flavors, it has rounded tannins, a strong structure hard to appreciate at this time. Your best bet is to cel- and a soft leather finish. —V.B. lar the wine for a good eight years. Cellar Selection. Sequoia Grove 2008 Rutherford Bench abv: 14.2% Price: $17 —S.H. 89 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon (Ruther- abv: 13.5% Price: $55 ford). There’s a dusty earthiness to this Cabernet that Dunning Vineyards 2009 Meritage (Paso makes it taste and feel rustic. It’s very dry, with fine 87 Robles). Juicy and jammy, this wine features Scarlett 2009 Estate Grown Cabernet black cherry and currant flavors, and the oak is solid sweet blackberry and cherry fruit, with a touch of smoky 90 Sauvignon (Rutherford). Made from 100% and tasteful. But the tannins are tough, almost old-fash- oak. The texture is a bit coarse, but a good broiled steak Cabernet, this is a very rich, flamboyant wine. It brims ioned, and the acidity is notable. Try aging it for 6–8 will wrestle those tannins into submission. —S.H. with blueberry and cherry jam flavors, with a chocolate years. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $32 edge to the smoky new oak. The structure is impecca- abv: 14.4% Price: $65

WineMag.com | 55 Faust 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa and a little rustic. Drink it now with pizza or a burger. noma Valley). This wine is seemingly sweet and soft, 87 Valley). This is a soft, earthy wine, with dried —S.H. with very ripe black cherry and persimmon flavors. In herb and currant flavors. It comes down on the subtle abv: 14.7% Price: $38 fact, it’s almost too ripe, with a hint of raisins on the fin- side, with a bit of oak influence adding richness to the ish. Drink now. —S.H. wine’s otherwise dry texture. Drink soon. —S.H. Hoopla 2010 The Mutt (Napa Valley). abv: 14.2% Price: $30 abv: 14.2% Price: $55 86 Here’s a simple but likeable blend of mainly Cabernet, with some Merlot and Petite Sirah. It’s enor- Spann Vineyards 2009 The Classic Four Goyette 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon (So- mously ripe in blackberry jam, currant and spicy licorice 84 (Sonoma County). There’s lots of ripe black- 87 noma County). This shows lots of blackber- flavors. Drink now. —S.H. berry and cherry flavors in this soft, rather simple blend, ry and currant flavors, along with a polished jacket of abv: 14.6% Price: $33 based on the two Cabernets, Sauvignon and Franc. smoky oak. It’s bone dry but a little heavy. Perfect for —S.H. easy drinking when you need a nice Cabernet and don’t Jeff Gordon 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon abv: 14.5% Price: $24 want to mortgage the house. —S.H. 86 (Napa Valley). This is a solid Cab, rich in lico- abv: 14.7% Price: $25 rice, blackberry, mocha and toast, but it lacks subtlety. Volunteer 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon It feels heavy and sharp in the mouth, with citrusy acid, 84 (Napa Valley). This is rich in black currants Gundlach Bundschu 2009 Cabernet Sau- yet it doesn’t seem to have the inherent balance to age. and dark chocolate, with a hefty jacket of smoky oak. It’s 87 vignon (Sonoma Valley). Soft and earthy, —S.H. a little one-dimensional, but a pretty good Napa Valley with dried herb and blackberry flavors tinged with abv: 14.5% Price: $65 Cabernet. —S.H. smoky oak, this is a gentle Cabernet for drinking now. It abv: 14.7% Price: $30 has enough fanciness to partner with a nice steak or an Oberon 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa upscale beef taco. —S.H. 86 Valley). This is elaborate, but too soft for a Field Stone 2008 Wally’s Block Caber- abv: 14.4% Price: $40 great Napa Cabernet. That absence of structure accen- 83 net Sauvignon (Alexander Valley). This is tuates its ripeness, giving it tastes of candied cherry and a raisiny Cabernet, tannic and slightly coarse. Drink it Sequoia Grove 2009 Cabernet Sauvi- licorice. On the plus side, it’s dry and smooth, with lots now with barbecue or beef stews. —S.H. 87 gnon (Napa Valley). Rich and ripe, this fea- of smoky new French oak. Drink now. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $30 tures blackberry and currant flavors whose acidity pro- abv: 13.7% Price: $25 vides a citrusy, jammy tartness. This is the winery’s least Mirassou 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon expensive bottling, and an enticing introduction to its Ruby Red 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon (Dry 83 (California). This Cab is pretty thin in flavor, future releases of ’09 vineyard-designated Cabs. —S.H. 86 Creek Valley). You’ll find good, ripe and sa- with some unripeness that gives it a green mintiness. abv: 14.2% Price: $38 vory flavors of blackberry, currant and spice. A touch of However, it has a good core of blackberry flavor. Call it oak and a sweet licorice note give this 100% Cabernet a rustic sipper and drink it now with simple fare. —S.H. Spann Vineyards 2009 Four Barrels Cab- a candied appeal. It can’t quite escape its rustic mouth- abv: 13.5% Price: $12 87 ernet Franc (Sonoma County). You’ll find feel, but it’s a nice glass of red wine. —S.H. an herbal note in this wine, suggesting sweet green peas abv: 14.2% Price: $23 Field Stone 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon and dried herbs alongside riper touches of blackberry 82 (Alexander Valley). This overripe Cab tastes and cherry. Although it’s pretty tannic, it’s soft, making Dante 2010 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon like the essences of currant, raisin and prune. It’s bone it drinkable now. It could be ideal with shepherd’s pie. 85 (California). For the price, this is a great wine dry and quite tannic. This unbalanced wine is not going —S.H. for a party or an everyday dinner. It’s soft, easy to drink anywhere, so drink up. —S.H. abv: 14.2% Price: $28 and rich enough in cherry, berry and oak flavors to sat- abv: 13.5% Price: $20 isfy Cabernet lovers. And it’s easy to find, with 10,000 Bernardus 2009 Signature Marinus (Car- cases produced. —S.H. McManis 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon (Cal- 86 mel Valley). This Bordeaux blend is a little abv: 13.5% Price: $11 82 ifornia). Seemingly sweet in candied raspberry too sharp and green. Mainly Cabernet Sauvignon, it and cherry, with a strong oak flavor and zesty acidity, has a minty taste alongside the ripe blackberries. Oak Field Stone 2008 Staten Family Reserve this Cabernet tastes like cough medicine. But it’s drink- brings much-needed richness, but that tartness persists 85 Cabernet Sauvignon (Alexander Valley). able, and the price is O.K. for what you get. —S.H. through the finish. —S.H. This Cabernet is soft, superripe and dry, with black­ abv: 13.5% Price: $11 abv: 14.1% Price: $80 berry and raisin flavors and a raisinskin bitterness. It’s pretty rustic, but easy beef dishes, like tacos, will coax Martin Ranch 2008 J.D. Hurley Cabernet De Novo 2009 Bastille (Sonoma County). out its inherent richness. —S.H. 81 Sauvignon (Santa Cruz Mountains). This 86 Based on Merlot, this Bordeaux-style blend is abv: 14.5% Price: $40 tastes like Port, with raisin, prune and chocolate flavors. very ripe and forward in blueberry, cherry and raspber- Drink up. —S.H. ry jam, and it finishes in a swirl of dusty baking spices. Counter Punch 2009 Cabernet Sauvi- abv: 14% Price: $25 It’s a good wine, if a bit rustic, with some edgy tannins 84 gnon (Rutherford). This is surprisingly soft and high alcohol. —S.H. and one-dimensional for a Rutherford Cabernet. Al- Martin Ranch 2008 Therese Vineyards abv: 15.4% Price: $38 though you’ll find rich cherry and raspberry fruit flavors, 81 Cabernet Sauvignon (Santa Cruz Moun- the wine lacks depth and structure. Drink now. —S.H. tains). In this wine, it appears that 2008’s late-season Educated Guess 2010 Cabernet Sauvi- abv: 14.2% Price: $65 heat spikes got the best of the grapes. The wine has 86 gnon (Napa Valley). This has ripe, reward- raisiny, Port-like aromas and tastes, with bitterness from ing blackberry, cherry and oak flavors, wrapped in full- Rutherford Hill 2009 Cabernet Franc shriveled raisin skins. It doesn’t offer much pleasure. bodied tannins and finished with sweet oak. It’s easy to 84 (Napa Valley). Although this Cab Franc has —S.H. drink with any beef or lamb dish. —S.H. some Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Malbec blended abv: 14.2% Price: $45 abv: 14.5% Price: $20 in, it’s still too soft, and it’s missing structural integrity. The lack of firmness accentuates the sweetness of the Hendry 2008 RED (Napa Valley). There’s fruit, making it taste candied. Drink now. —S.H. OTHER RED BLENDS 86 lots of ripe, jammy blackberry and cherry fruits abv: 14.2% Price: $38 Seghesio 2009 San Lorenzo Estate (Al- in this Petit Verdot-based blend. It’s dry, robust, spicy exander Valley). Made from Zinfandel and Spann Vineyards 2009 OMG Three Bar- 93 Petite Sirah grown in the winery’s estate vineyard, this 84 rels Cabernet Sauvignon-Merlot (So-

56 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | DECEMBER 2012 is a fabulous wine. It’s high in alcohol and a little hot, soft violet and raspberry tones. With a line of acidity, it’s Cerruti 2009 Baci’s Bin 32 (Napa Valley). but superbly ripe, offering rich waves of raspberry and a fine wine for food. —V.B. 83 Ripe and forward in blackberry and cherry jam, cherry pie filling, red currant, licorice and mocha, with abv: 14.4% Price: $28 this Sangiovese-based blend (with Cabernet Sauvignon a sweet-smoke oak flavor. It’s delicious and heady on its and Merlot) is a simple wine to drink with burgers. own, but try it with short ribs, pizza or duck breast with Fenestra NV True Red Lot 27 (California). —S.H. a cherry sauce. —S.H. 87 This has soft cherry and raspberry highlights abv: 14.8% Price: $24 abv: 15% Price: $60 that are a little too subtle, but overall it is a well-con- structed red blend, with body and flavor that will pair Chateau St. Jean 2010 Signature Red Baiocchi Wines 2009 Entre Nous Gre- perfectly with midweek meals. —V.B. 82 Blend (California). Rugged and ripe, with 90 nache-Syrah (Fair Play). Thick and full- abv: 13.8% Price: $13 raspberry candy and green mint flavors. Made from six bodied with a bright, dark cherry note, this blend of varieties, it’s okay for drinking with burgers and such. 90% Grenache and 10% Syrah is densely meaty, tasting Flowers 2010 Perennial (California). This —S.H. of black tea and olive, brooding yet bright and smooth. 87 has to be the only blend of Pinot Noir, Syrah, abv: 13.8% Price: $14 —V.B. Pinot Meunier and Chardonnay produced in California, abv: 16.5% Price: $39 and maybe in the world. Dry and tasty as it is, it’s cer- Cryptic 2010 Red (California). Seemingly tainly an eccentric wine. It shows plenty of ripe rasp- 82 sweet, with Lifesaver cherry and raspberry can- Foxen 2010 Cuvée Jeanne Marie (San- berry, red licorice and sweet bacon, yet the acidity is dy flavors and tart acidity, this simple wine is fine for 90 ta Ynez Valley). Made in the accessible style reminiscent of Champagne. Drink now. —S.H. everyday meals or parties. —S.H. of a southern Rhône blend, with Grenache, Syrah and abv: 14% Price: $38 abv: 14.3% Price: $18 Mourvèdre, this is the most forward of Foxen’s new red wines. With jammy raspberry and cherry flavors, it’s a La Filice 2009 Via Della Vigna (Paso Ro- Kitchen Sink NV Winemaker’s Reserve delicious, finely structured wine to drink now. —S.H. 87 bles). It’s easy to imagine drinking this wine— 81 Red (California). Black pepper and acidity, abv: 14.4% Price: $44 and really enjoying it—in Paso Robles with a grilled compounded by a lack of richness, combine to make steak. It’s rich, heady and ripe in black currants, with a this wine scoury. It has flavors of sour cherry candy and La Filice 2009 Convivio (Paso Robles). Port-like, raisiny taste. —S.H. tobacco. —S.H. 90 This wine is rich and smooth, with flavors of abv: 14.7% Price: $25 abv: 12.5% Price: $13 ripe blackberry, freshly baked pie, spice, bacon and cas- sis liqueur. High in alcohol, it’s soft, warming and easy to Chatom Vineyards 2009 Cuvee Red (Ca- X 2009 Saved Red (California). This is drink with barbecue. The blend is mostly Petite Sirah, 86 laveras County). A blend heavily weighted 81 a fruit-driven, sharp and Port-like red wine, with one-quarter Syrah. —S.H. toward Merlot and Syrah, with smaller amounts of Pe- blended from Petit Verdot, Malbec, Grenache and abv: 15.2% Price: $25 tite Sirah, Cabernet Sauvignon and Malbec, this red Nebbiolo. —S.H. blend is a nice mix of dry cranberry and raspberry fla- abv: 14.2% Price: $35 McCay Cellars 2009 Paisley (Lodi). This vors, with dry tannins and a long finish. —V.B. 90 juicy and fruity wine is a blend of just slightly abv: 14.8% Price: $14 X 2008 Mash (Napa Valley). This is so over- more than half Zinfandel, the rest Petite Sirah. It’s full 81 ripe that it tastes like Port, with raisin and milk of ripe black and red fruit, with structured tannins that Jeff Gordon 2008 Joie de Vivre (Napa chocolate flavors, and a hot, spicy finish. —S.H. teeter on the edge of being overwhelming—until the 86 Valley). Jammy and direct in raspberry and abv: 14.9% Price: $60 finish gives exactly the right hit of spice. —V.B. cherry flavors, with lots of sweet smoky oak and some abv: 14.8% Price: $24 hot alcohol, this blend is long on flavor, but a little short on nuance and complexity. Drink it now with robust MALBEC Baiocchi Wines 2009 Sprezzatura Syrah- grilled meats and stews. —S.H. Ancient Peaks 2009 Margarita Vineyard 89 Grenache (Fair Play). A juicy Syrah with 10% abv: 14.5% Price: $61 90 Malbec (Paso Robles). Malbec is difficult to Grenache, this wine is as mountainous as the slopes on make well on its own in California, but Ancient Peaks Coquelicot 2009 Sixer (Santa Ynez Val- which it was grown. The wine shows red and black fruit, keeps trying, with steadily improving results. This ’09 ley). This is mostly Syrah, with a dash of Viogni- quite ripe, and has enough structure to last for years, 85 is attractive—mellow and soft, with a generous cherry er blended in. It’s dry, crisp and smooth, with some nice the long finish accented by rich touches of espresso and flavor balanced by a rich earthiness. —S.H. cherry fruit, but there’s a green vegetal touch. —S.H. dark chocolate. —V.B. abv: 14.1% Price: $35 abv: 16.5% Price: $39 abv: 14.5% Price: $39 Rutherford Hill 2009 Malbec (Napa Val- Rutherford Hill 2009 Barrel Select (Napa Ravenswood 2009 Icon Native Sonoma ley). Inky black in color, firm in tannins and Valley). This wine is sharp and minty, with win- 87 88 Mixed Blocks (Sonoma County). This is a 85 bone dry, this will pair well with char-broiled steak. It’s tergreen flavors accompanying the riper blackberry and very rich wine, dense, soft and almost heavy. Comprised immensely rich in blackberry, blueberry and dark choc- currant. That tartness gives this blend of Merlot, Syrah of Zinfandel, Carignane, Petite Sirah and other undis- olate flavors. Courtesy of Napa’s heat, it’s a little soft, so and Cabernet Sauvignon a dry bite. Drink now. —S.H. closed varieties, its proprietary name refers to the kind drink it soon. —S.H. abv: NA Price: $28 of field-blended red wines made by the Italian-Ameri- abv: 13.8% Price: $38 can settlers of old. And indeed, there’s something rustic Field Stone 2009 Convivio (Alexander but satisfying about this full-bodied, fruity wine. Drink Spann Vineyards 2010 Four Barrels Mal- Valley). Here’s a red blend to drink with bar- it now with barbecue or stews. —S.H. 84 bec (Sonoma County). Full of candied fla- becue or with hearty winter stews. It’s a full-bodied, 85 abv: 14.9% Price: $75 vors of cherry pie and brown-sugar-baked yam, this is country-style wine, with plenty of fruit and tannin, and tasty, even if it’s not particularly complex. With a firm a touch of chocolate-covered raisin. —S.H. Dalliance 2010 Red (Lake County). For jacket of tannins, it’s made in a country style. Drink now. abv: 14.1% Price: $14 87 full review see page 11. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $20 abv: 14.5% Price: $33 Lyeth 2011 Fleur de Lyeth (California). Elyse 2008 C’est Si Bon Naggiar Vine- 84 Dry, thin and simple, with a green, minty streak 87 yard (Sierra Foothills). A Grenache-based and lots of acidity. Still, with some decent blackberry Rhône blend, C’est Si Bon is good and very subtle. Like fruit, it’s not a bad wine for the price. —S.H. a Beaujolais, an earthy leather note emerges in between abv: 13.5% Price: $10

WineMag.com | 57 MERLOT Mirassou 2010 Merlot (California). This coming rounded out with notes of violet and oaky leath- 84 Merlot is of everyday quality, with an easy-to- er. —V.B. Darcie Kent Vineyards 2008 Crown Block like silky texture and soft, almost sweet flavors of cherry, abv: 14.5% Price: $23 87 Merlot (Livermore Valley). This Merlot fea- mocha and spice. It’s not a bad value, and it should be tures noticeably soft, supple fruit, tasting of red plum widely available. —S.H. Sobriquet Winery 2010 Sandoval Vine- and dark cherry, with mellow, sweet tannin. Still, the abv: 13% Price: $12 85 yard Grenache (Santa Ynez Valley). Rich wine has a big presence and a wall of structure around raspberry, cherry and mocha flavors characterize this it, the finish laced with cedar. —V.B. Snapping Turtle 2011 Merlot (California). Grenache, but the mouthfeel is off-balance, with its ac- abv: 13.9% Price: $26 80 This smells and tastes like raspberry bubble- ids and green tannins sticking out. This exposes the dif- gum, with a taste of white sugar. —S.H. ficulties of making great Grenache in California, even in Fenestra 2008 Thatcher Bay Merlot abv: 12.5% Price: $11 the Santa Ynez Valley. —S.H. 87 (Livermore Valley). This Merlot begins with abv: 14.9% Price: $33 a fragrant cinnamon-spice nose, followed by a healthy amount of bright red-cherry and plum flavors. It’s light- PETIT VERDOT bodied and satisfying all-around, with a long finish. Jarvis 2008 Estate Grown Cave Ferment- MOURVÈDRE —V.B. 87 ed Petit Verdot (Napa Valley). For full re- Andis Wines 2010 Mourvèdre (Amador abv: 14.1% Price: $22 view see page 11. 92 County). This seductive, beautiful Mourvèdre abv: 13.8% Price: $80 includes 22% Syrah, showing big berry fruit and an ir- Jason-Stephens 2007 Estate Merlot resistable earthy, smoky quality wrapped around notes 87 (Santa Clara Valley). This begins like an aged Concannon 2009 Reserve Petit Verdot of leather and meat. This is a testament to Amador’s Merlot, soft in cinnamon spice aromas, then it delves 86 (Livermore Valley). A big but not-too-tannic increasing quality, and Andis is a producer to watch. into the supple dark-plum flavors of a younger-drinking Petit Verdot, this is juicy and structured with red fruit —V.B. Merlot. —V.B. and a light layer of spice. Tending toward black licorice abv: 13.9% Price: $24 abv: 14.5% Price: $24 and dark chocolate, it could use a splash of something to brighten it up. But it’s otherwise a bottle worth try- Holly’s Hill 2010 Estate Mourvèdre (El Lava Cap 2009 Merlot (El Dorado). This is ing if you’re curious to try a varietal Petit Verdot. —V.B. 88 Dorado). Holly’s Hill Mourvèdre opens with a 87 unmistakably a mountain-grown Merlot, hefty abv: 14.8% Price: $30 gigantic waft of black pepper, followed by intense fruit with dark fruit and layers of baking spice. Concentrated flavors of cherry and dried plum. Medium bodied and and ready to age another 5–7 years, it has a long and Spann Vineyards 2009 Two Barrels Pe- light on the finish, this earthy wine also gives off a hint leathery finish. —V.B. 86 tit Verdot (Sonoma County). Although this of cured meats, with which it would pair nicely. —V.B. abv: 14.7% Price: $20 is seemingly sweet and a bit one-dimensional, it’s tasty, abv: 14.7% Price: $25 with candied blackberry and plum flavors. Try it with Kendall-Jackson 2010 Vintner’s Reserve something savory and spicy, like carne asada. —S.H. Terre Rouge 2009 Mourvèdre (Sierra 86 Merlot (Sonoma County). Flavors of juicy abv: 14.2% Price: $38 88 Foothills). Bill Easton’s Mourvèdre features a red and black cherry, licorice, sandalwood and spice combination of bright, ripe strawberry and savory herb- abound in this dry, savory Merlot. It’s easy to drink with Ancient Peaks 2009 Margarita Vineyard al tea. It is medium bodied, with a distinctly peppery burgers, steaks or lamb. —S.H. 83 Petit Verdot (Paso Robles). There’s an over- finish. —V.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $19 ripe taste to this wine, suggesting raisin and prune, and abv: 14.5% Price: $25 it has high alcohol. Although it’s dry and rich in tan- Buena Vista 2010 Merlot (Sonoma Coun- nins and oak, its rustic quality makes it difficult to en- Spann Vineyards 2009 Mourvèdre (Cal- 85 ty). This Merlot is soft, simple and seemingly joy. —S.H. 85 ifornia). Soft and candied, this has flavors of sweet in fruit and oak. With ripe cherry, mocha and abv: 15.2% Price: $35 cherry jelly, gummy bear, plum, licorice, sandalwood spice flavors, it will partner well with a cheeseburger. and pepper. This is a dry wine that will please lovers of —S.H. sweet wine. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $15 GRENACHE abv: 14% Price: $20 Dante 2010 Reserve Merlot (California). Casey Flat Ranch 2010 Grenache (Ca- 85 This may be a little soft and simple, but over- 89 pay Valley). With only one barrel made, Casey SYRAH all it is a tasty Merlot that’s rich in milk chocolate and Flat’s Grenache is still at the experimental level, but this cherry jam, with a touch of smoky oak. Drink it at a par- vintage shows its potential: full and dense, with ripe Foxen 2010 Williamson-Doré Vineyard ty. —S.H. strawberry, rich leather, smoky black tar and a smidge 95 Syrah (Santa Ynez Valley). It’s hard to imag- abv: 13.5% Price: $11 of black licorice. Give it 3–5 years to further complicate ine a Syrah more attractive than this. In addition to the those flavors and open up. —V.B. wealth of raspberry and red currant flavors and the won- Noble Vines 2010 181-Merlot Merlot abv: 15.5% Price: $35 derfully sweet new oak, it is extremely well balanced. 85 (Lodi). A large-production wine that’s simple The tannins are luxurious, the acid crisp and fine, the and straightforward in its dark cherry flavor and soft Holly’s Hill 2010 Estate Grenache (El Do- complexity a delight and the finish dry and long. This texture, this wine is a crowd-pleaser. It finishes quick 89 rado). This lovely Grenache Noir has flavors of full-bodied selection offers refinement and intellectual but satisfying. —V.B. black tea and black pepper, softened by layers of fruit appeal. Drink now–2016 for freshness. —S.H. abv: 14% Price: $13 and smoky black licorice. Big, black and intense, give it abv: 14.8% Price: $46 another 3–5 years to mellow out. It will surely retain its Spellbound 2010 Merlot (California). Us- gorgeous herbal and savory elements. —V.B. Foxen 2010 Tinaquaic Vineyard Syrah 85 ing grapes sourced primarily from Lodi, this abv: 14.7% Price: $20 94 (Santa Maria Valley). An especially chilly vin- Merlot is oaky and smoky, expressing an aroma of tage in the always-cool Santa Maria Valley has resulted cooked black olive. It also features a subtle and toasty Naggiar 2009 Estate Grenache (Sierra in an intense, young Syrah that is dry, tannic and dra- berry cobbler flavor, and the finish is all cedar and cara- 88 Foothills). Perfumed, floral and intriguing, matic. Despite its tightness, the flavors of cherry jam, mel. —V.B. this is still tight with mountain tannins. In a few years, bacon, cola and black pepper explode deliciously. Ex- abv: 13.5% Price: $15 its thick black-cherry and pepper tones will emerge, be- tremely low yields in the vineyard give this Syrah a den-

58 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | DECEMBER 2012 sity that will allow it to age for 6–8 years, though with climate character in this vital, young Syrah. It’s rich in heady crème de cassis. The alcohol is very high, as is of- decanting, it’s fine to drink now. —S.H. flavors of freshly crushed black pepper, blackberry jam ten the case with Petite Sirahs grown in warm climates. abv: 14.3% Price: $46 and bacon, with a smooth, velvety mouthfeel. It’s a little —S.H. light in texture, so drink it now with steak. —S.H. abv: 15.5% Price: $45 Foxen 2010 Toasted Rope Syrah (Santa abv: 13.8% Price: $24 94 Ynez Valley). Do not pop the cork and drink McManis 2011 Petite Sirah (California). this right away as it’s currently tight and tannic. But as Olabisi 2007 King Vineyard Syrah (Su- 83 There’s lots to like in this soft, simple Petite it warms up and breathes, it releases its considerable 88 isun Valley). Thick and meaty, this Syrah has Sirah. It shows the variety’s full-bodied tannins, and its charms. With 16% Viognier blended in, it’s fantastically an unusual-but-welcome aroma of marshmallow, sur- flavors of blackberry and cherry jam are ripe and juicy. rich and concentrated in black-pepper-accented rasp- rounded by notes of dark plum, black currant and a —S.H. berry and sweet-smoke flavors. Acidity adds balance to streak of dark chocolate. With a long, lingering and rich abv: 13.5% Price: $11 the richness. You can enjoy this wine now, after an hour finish, this will be great to drink in the winter months. in the decanter, or cellar it for at least six years. —S.H. —V.B. abv: 14.2% Price: $44 abv: 14.9% Price: $30 ZINFANDEL Bella 2009 Barrel 32 Zinfandel (Sonoma Stark 2009 Cuvee Julian, Stoney Creek Alexander Valley Vineyards 2009 Wetzel County). For full review see page 4. Vineyard Syrah (Fair Play). Family Estate Syrah (Alexander Valley). 94 91 This Syrah, with 86 abv: 14.5% Price: $48 3% Viognier, exhibits pretty cherry and raspberry tones, There’s a soft, candied appeal to the cherry, strawberry with a lingering touch of orange peel. It is concentrated, and blackberry flavors in this dry, young wine. With a Bella 2009 Maple Vineyards Zinfandel with a silky texture, mellow tannins and a meaty back- sweet oak jacket, it’s clean and pleasant to drink now. 93 (Dry Creek Valley). For full review see page bone. —V.B. —S.H. 5. Editors’ Choice. abv: 14.5% Price: $36 abv: 14% Price: $18 abv: 14.4% Price: $38

Dutton Estate 2010 My Father’s Vineyard Martin Ranch 2009 Therese Vineyards Bella 2009 Big River Ranch Zinfandel (Al- 90 - Dutton Ranch Syrah (Russian River Val- 86 Lester Family Vineyards Syrah (Santa 92 exander Valley). For full review see page 7. ley). Deliciously drinkable now, this has soft, pliant tan- Cruz Mountains). The texture on this Syrah is a little abv: 14.7% Price: $38 nins and a melting mouthfeel framing complex flavors rough, with edgy tannins accentuating its sharpness. It’s of black cherry and raspberry, grilled Canadian bacon, robust and sweet in blackberry jam and black pepper Hunnicutt 2010 Zinfandel (Napa Valley). black pepper and sandalwood. It’s thoroughly dry, and flavors, with a hint of teriyaki beef. Drink this rustic of- 91 Blended with a drop of Petite Sirah, this pow- its gamy quality makes it an especially good companion fering now. —S.H. erful Zin offers blasts of ripe, freshly picked summer for lamb dishes. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $35 blackberries. With notes of pie spice, sweet oak and li- abv: 13.2% Price: $40 queur-like alcohol, this calls for ribs and chicken in a Matchbook 2009 Syrah (Dunnigan Hills). slightly sweet barbeque sauce. —S.H. Fenestra 2008 Estate Syrah (Livermore 84 This Syrah, blended with 9% Cabernet, tastes abv: 14.7% Price: $38 89 Valley). Here, Fenestra has made a red-fruit- of dark fruit, tobacco and leather. But there’s an odd forward, plummy, full, round, juicy Syrah, with good aroma lurking in the wine’s background that’s hard to Macauley 2009 Old Vines Zinfandel structure and a pleasing taste of tea biscuit on the finish. pinpoint and not entirely pleasant. —V.B. 91 (Napa Valley). Extraordinarily rich and heady, Ready to drink now, it’s best paired with roasted chick- abv: 14.3% Price: $16 this has gigantic cherry and raspberry jam flavors. So en. —V.B. sweet and pure, it tastes like the essence of Zinfandel, abv: 14.8% Price: $24 Kendall-Jackson 2010 Vintner’s Reserve but at the last moment acidity and tannins emerge, 82 Syrah (California). A harsh wine, with cutting bringing necessary structure. Drink now. —S.H. Les Caves Roties de Pente 2009 Bells acids and a thin flavor of raspberry candy. —S.H. abv: 14.8% Price: $35 89 Echo Vineyard Syrah (Mendocino Coun- abv: 13.5% Price: $17 ty). This Mendocino Syrah is concentrated, rich and sa- Ravenswood 2009 Belloni Zinfandel vory, full of big dark-plum and blackberry flavors. The 91 (Russian River Valley). Lusty and potent, meat and white pepper notes go down smooth on the PETITE SIRAH this has a wild quality to it. The flavors are of red and finish. —V.B. La Filice 2009 Shell Creek Vineyard Pe- black berries, some freshly picked, some dried and abv: 14.2% Price: $50 90 tite Sirah (Paso Robles). This wine scores overripe, with hints of pepper and anise. The brawny, high on the deliciousness factor, offering ripe, lush fla- briary, brambly quality expresses Sonoma County’s old- Novy 2010 Syrah (Sonoma County). While vors of blackberry and blueberry jam, dark chocolate, vine Zin in all its glory. —S.H. this Syrah is a bit angular now, it does offer great 89 cedar and baking spice. With fairly high alcohol, it abv: 13.9% Price: $35 structure, with a fine architecture of tannin and acid. warms the blood and has a nice headiness. Drink now. There are licks of Tabasco and black pepper that make —S.H. Dashe Cellars 2010 Zinfandel (Dry Creek the black and red currant flavors bracing. It becomes abv: 14.9% Price: $25 90 Valley). This epitomizes Dry Creek Valley Zin- more interesting as it warms in the glass. —S.H. fandel. It’s dry, briary and brambly, with wild berry, cola abv: 14.6% Price: $19 Ancient Peaks 2009 Petite Sirah (Paso and crisped bacon flavors. It’s incredibly spicy, offering Robles). Ripe and seemingly sweet fruit, oak everything from black and white pepper to nutmeg, an- Sobriquet Winery 2010 Saarloos Vine- 88 and spice characterize this rich, delicious Petite Sirah. ise and clove. The texture is a delight—silky and gen- yard Syrah (Santa Ynez Valley). This is 89 It shows the variety’s strong tannins, but here they’re tly tannic. While the official alcohol is 13.7%, it tastes beautifully rich, exploding in flavors of dark chocolate, soft and melted. The flavors include blackberry jam and warmer. —S.H. blackberry purée, pepper, anise and smoky sandalwood. mocha. —S.H. abv: 13.7% Price: $24 Yet it’s balanced and refined, and it never loses its sense abv: 14.1% Price: $35 of style. It is, however, a little warm in alcohol, but if Dashe Cellars 2010 Florence Vineyard that doesn’t bother you, you’ll love it. —S.H. Dunning Vineyards 2010 Reserve Petite 90 Zinfandel (Dry Creek Valley). Similar to the abv: 15% Price: $30 87 Sirah (Paso Robles). Rich, thick and heady, 2009 vintage, which was another cool year, this single- this almost tastes like a dessert wine. It shows notes of vineyard offering is bone dry and strong in tannins, with Balletto 2009 Estate Bottled Syrah (Rus- dark chocolate, blackberry pie with a buttery crust and a complex austerity. It shows tobacco, balsam and tam- 88 sian River Valley). There’s plenty of cool-

WineMag.com | 59 ari notes alongside hints of raspberry and blackberry. It Ulises Valdez 2009 Lancel Creek Vine- Zin. It’s high in alcohol and a little soft, but it is deli- needs rich, complex meat stews or pasta dishes with to- 89 yard Zinfandel (Russian River Valley). cious. Serve it at a barbeque with burgers, ribs, chops, mato, and lots of cheese in order to balance the With a rich spiciness and flavors of wild berry and cur- chicken and sausages. —S.H. wine’s tannins and acids, and to coax out the sweetness. rant, this is an excellent example of Sonoma County abv: 15% Price: $35 —S.H. Zinfandel. It’s robust and potent in alcohol, showing the abv: 14.3% Price: $35 variety’s rustic nature at its best. It will partner well with Ravenswood 2009 Old Hill Zinfandel (So- stews and barbecue. —S.H. 88 noma Valley). This is rich and spicy, with the McCay Cellars 2009 Jupiter Zinfandel abv: 15.3% Price: $38 briary, brambly tastes of ripe blackberry and blueberry. 90 (Lodi). Deliciously round and spicy, this has at- It’s high in alcohol, which gives it a slight burn. Enjoy it tractive berry flavors wrapped around a hint of roasted Ulises Valdez 2009 Quinn Vineyard Zin- with robust Italian pasta and pizza dishes. —S.H. coffee bean. A masculine, intense and layered wine, it 89 fandel (Dry Creek Valley). Exotic Indian abv: 15% Price: $60 has balanced acidity that makes its flavors pop. —V.B. spices and very ripe blackberry and blueberry flavors abv: 14.7% Price: $28 characterize this rich, heady wine. It’s so fruity that it Bella Piazza 2008 Esola Vineyard Old tastes sweet, but it’s actually dry, with a long, delicious 87 Vine Zinfandel (Shenandoah Valley). Su- Ravenswood 2009 Barricia Zinfandel (So- finish. —S.H. per dusty, leathery and big shouldered, this is also quite 90 noma Valley). There’s bracing heat in this Zin abv: 14.2% Price: $38 bright and drinkable. Made using grapes sourced from that’s blended with 20% Petite Sirah. The heat comes old vines planted within the Esola Vineyard. —V.B. partly from the high alcohol, partly from the notes of Dashe Cellars 2009 Louvau Vineyard abv: 14.3% Price: $25 crushed white and black peppercorns, partly from the 88 Old Vines Zinfandel (Dry Creek Valley). charred new oak and partly from the baked quality that Dashe always produces dependably good Di Arie 2009 Break Away Zinfandel (Si- marks the blackberry note. Everything about this lusty, from this vineyard. The 2009 shows real complexity, 87 erra Foothills). Dense, layered and juicy, this delicious wine begs for grilled and roasted meats and with an earthy, mushroomy richness alongside the rasp- has a good concentration of bright blackberry flavor. poultry—especially game birds. —S.H. berry, red currant and spice flavors. It’s very dry, with a The small amounts of Primitivo and Barbera are subtly abv: 14.9% Price: $35 fine structure of acid and tannins. Marked by the rus- apparent. With a snap of chocolate on the finish, it’s well ticity that characterizes Dry Creek Zinfandels. It calls rounded. —V.B. Ravenswood 2009 Dickerson Zinfandel for pairing with rich stews, braised meats and barbe- abv: 14.3% Price: $18 90 (Napa Valley). This is a strong Zinfandel. It cue. —S.H. takes over the mouth with a blast of ripe blackberry, abv: 14.6% Price: $32 Four Vines 2010 The Sophisticate Zinfan- cherry, anise, chocolate and spice. What it lacks in sub- 87 del (Sonoma County). This is robust, jammy tlety it more than makes up for in sheer power. —S.H. Graziano 2009 Zinfandel (Mendocino and tart, with blackberry jam and root beer flavors, fin- abv: 14.5% Price: $35 88 County). This is a Claret-like Zinfandel, mel- ished with swirls of melted dark chocolate and pepper. low and simply rendered, with layers of dark cherry, It tastes like classic Zinfandel, with a lush finish. It’s a Ravenswood 2009 Teldeschi Zinfandel blackberry and lilting spiciness. This would be spectac- natural choice for barbecue and meat stews. —S.H. 90 (Dry Creek Valley). This is a big, strong Zin- ular with lighter fare like barbecued chicken or grilled abv: 14.8% Price: $25 fandel, packing a real punch in terms of flavor. It brings turkey burgers. —V.B. blasts of ripe summer blackberry and cherry, with notes abv: 14.5% Price: $17 Grgich Hills 2009 Estate Grown Zinfandel of anise, nettle, chamomile, white pepper and briar. 87 (Napa Valley). From a winery better known Carignane and Petite Sirah round out this complex, Hendry 2010 Blocks 7 & 22 Zinfandel for Cabernet Sauvignon, this is a fairly standard Zin- delicious blend, which is fully ready to drink now with 88 (Napa Valley). This wine marries Napa Val- fandel, with generous berry, tobacco, sandalwood and game, rich stews or easy backyard barbecue. —S.H. ley’s elegant tannin structure with Zin’s naturally briary spice flavors. It does have lovely balance and the preci- abv: 14.8% Price: $35 rusticity, with good results. The flavors abound in wild sion typical of Napa Valley. —S.H. berry, currant, tobacco, cola, tabasco and exotic spice. It abv: 15.3% Price: $35 Tyler Florence 2008 TF Zin Hoodoo will be great with grilled beef. —S.H. 90 Creek VIneyard Zinfandel (Lake County). abv: 14.6% Price: $35 Lava Cap 2009 Reserve Zinfandel (El Do- Decadently jammed with aromas and flavors of dark 87 rado). This intoxicatingly interesting wine is plum, blackberry and chocolate, this has subtle layers of McCay Cellars 2009 Truluck’s Zinfandel full of rich dark-berry flavors, with streaks of leather and black licorice and brawny leather. With small amounts 88 (Lodi). Winemaker Michael McCay is an ex- roasted coffee. —V.B. of Syrah and Petit Verdot, this powerhouse gets better pert at coaxing fine texture out of a big wine. This is a abv: 15.1% Price: $24 in the glass. Chef-turned-vintner Tyler Florence sug- round, soft Zinfandel with bright, vibrant raspberry and gests pairing it with osso bucco. —V.B. blackberry flavors. It may need more time in bottle to V. Sattui 2009 Pilgrim Vineyard Zinfandel abv: 15.5% Price: $40 reveal its entire personality. In the meantime, enjoy its 87 (Lodi). This big, blackberry-infused Zinfandel leather and licorice streaks. —V.B. has plenty of leather, roasted coffee, licorice and tobac- Andis Wines 2010 Primitivo (Amador abv: 14.6% Price: $32 co notes coming through. It’s medium-bodied and com- 89 County). This robust and classically rustic plex, with an herbal hint on the finish. —V.B. Primitivo tastes of dark cherry and just-picked brambly Novy 2010 Zinfandel (Russian River Val- abv: 15% Price: $37 blackberry. A balanced mountain-grown wine, it has a 88 ley). This trattoria-style wine shows plenty of wall of spice around its core, with elements of cinna- easy charm. It’s light bodied and pleasantly tart, with Zinfandelic 2009 Old Vine Zinfandel mon and pepper, finished off by a refreshing twist of flavors of sour cherry candy, cola and spice, and a dry, 87 (Amador County). For full review see page mint. —V.B. clean finish. It’s perfect for pasta dishes with red sauce 12. abv: 14.5% Price: $25 and pizza, but avoid rich stews that will overwhelm it. abv: 14.5% Price: $19 —S.H. Bella 2009 Belle Canyon Zinfandel (Dry abv: 15.1% Price: $19 Jason-Stephens 2008 Estate Zinfandel 89 Creek Valley). This is almost always a reward- 86 (Santa Clara Valley). Rich and ripe, this is ing Zinfandel from Bella. The ’09 offers flavors of spicy, Ravenswood 2009 Big River Zinfandel an intense and decadent Zinfandel, with highlights of briary raspberry and cherry fruit, cola, sweet herb and 88 (Alexander Valley). With flavors of wild blackberry jam and milk chocolate. —V.B. mocha, with a dry, classic finish. —S.H. blackberry and cherry, pepper, cinnamon, currant and abv: 16.5% Price: $28 abv: 14.3% Price: $35 heady cassis, this is a classic example of warm-climate

60 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | DECEMBER 2012 Roadhouse Winery 2010 Zinfandel (Dry Domenico 2007 Primitivo (Amador Coun- of acidity and core flavor of dark dried cherry. Pair this 86 Creek Valley). This may be a little sweet, hot 83 ty). Thick and heavy, this is Port-like in its tof- juicy and easy-to-drink selection with pizza, pasta, a and heavy, but it has such rich flavors of berry, currant, fee and raisin aromas, with a trace of licorice in the burger or cured meats. —V.B. spice and mocha that it’s easy to drink with ribs, chick- background. Its syrupy consistency almost expresses an abv: 14.5% Price: $18 en, burgers or vegetarian lasagna. —S.H. air of oxidation. —V.B. abv: 14.4% Price: $29 abv: 15.4% Price: $30 Sorelle Winery 2010 Troppo Bella San- 88 giovese (Lodi). Open this wine and you’ll feel Bella Piazza 2009 Sleeper Vineyard, Old Q 2011 Zinfandel (Sonoma County). This as though you’ve stepped into an Italian deli—so finely 85 Vine Zinfandel (Shenandoah Valley). This 83 is tart in acidity and tastes of raspberry jam, with has it captured the smell of cured meats. The back lay- thick, dusty and leathery Foothills Zinfandel is ready to a bubblegum-gassiness reminiscent of Beaujolais. It’s ers feature cherry and herb, the finish a burst of roasted, drink now with bold, meaty foods. —V.B. easy and refreshing. —S.H. toasted oak. This is a great wine to pair with a range of abv: 14.3% Price: $25 abv: 13.9% Price: $12 Italian-inspired meals. —V.B. abv: 13.9% Price: $23 Dunning Vineyards 2010 Reserve Zinfan- Gen5 2010 Old Vine Zinfandel (Lodi). 85 del (Paso Robles). High alcohol and very 82 This old-vine Zinfandel with a dusting of Petite Naggiar 2010 Estate Grown Sangiovese ripe fruit combine to make this reminiscent of Port. It Sirah and Tannat in the blend is stewy, soft and fairly 86 (Sierra Foothills). A classic Old World-style tastes of black currant and blackberry jam, with a hint simple. —V.B. Sangiovese, this is boldly tannic and resplendent with of raisin. Although it won’t please everyone, it is a good abv: 14.9% Price: $14 notes of sage, leather, coffee and bittersweet chocolate, example of its warm-climate style. —S.H. and traces of oak, cherry syrup and vanilla. It would pair abv: 15.2% Price: $38 Baron Herzog 2009 Old Vine Zinfandel expertly with a meaty pizza. —V.B. 80 (Lodi). The berry flavors in this wine are fight- abv: 13.8% Price: $21 Jacuzzi 2010 Primitivo (Lake County). ing to emerge, but they are overwhelmed by dusty tan- 85 This tastes of brash dark fruit, sage and coffee. nins and a lack of texture. —V.B. It will appeal to lovers of big wine and pair expertly with abv: 14.5% Price: $13 OTHER RED WINES pizza—especially with meaty toppings. —V.B. Horse & Plow 2010 Testa Vineyard Old abv: 15% Price: $16 BARBERA 89 Vine Carignane (Mendocino). Open- ing with a nose of sweet roses, it then deepens in tex- Mettler Family Vineyards 2009 Epicenter, Sorelle Winery 2010 Bellezza Fra Bar- ture and taste, with notes of light spice, earthy soil and Old Vine Zinfandel (Lodi). Estate-grown 85 bera (Lodi). This Barbera is leathery and rus- mushroom. It’s a fine rendering of old-vine fruit from from one of the family’s oldest Zin blocks, this wine is 87 tic, expressing a taste of the Old World with its juicy Testa Vineyards, where the certified-organic vines date hugely toasty and oaky, with hits of bacon and dark cof- dark-plum flavor and roasted, toasted accents. It’s back to 1912. —V.B. fee overshadowing an underlying layer of blackberry fla- slightly reminiscent of cured meats and salami, and both abv: 14.5% Price: $27 vor. —V.B. would make good pairings. —V.B. abv: 15.4% Price: $20 abv: 13.3% Price: $25 Michael David 2010 Bechthold Vineyard Ancient Vine Cinsault (Lodi). This marks a Redemption 2009 Zinfandel (Dry Creek 88 Bella Piazza 2009 Barbera (Shenandoah real departure for Michael David, a producer that tends Valley). This is ripe and spicy, with plenty of 85 Valley). Subdued on the nose, this has a good to make its wines big and bold. This soft, hardly oaked, blackberry and blueberry flavors. Although it’s a little 86 concentration of fruit and a strong structure, buoyed by lightly tannic Cinsault is from a very special old vine- lighter on the palate than expected, it’s fine for barbe- firm acidity. The finish is long and lingering. —V.B. yard. With a smooth texture and a core of red cherry cue. —S.H. abv: 15.8% Price: $22 and cranberry flavors, it is light-bodied and very floral. abv: 14.9% Price: $22 —V.B. Di Arie 2008 Barbera (Sierra Foothills). Sorelle Winery 2010 Sorriso Primitivo abv: 13.8% Price: $24 Soft and round, with an explosive burst of can- (Lodi). Austere and tannic, this savory Primi- 86 85 died fruit on the palate, this Barbera has concentrated Bella Piazza 2009 tivo tastes of black cherry and blackberry, with leather flavors of dried cherry, plum and milk chocolate, the lat- (Shenandoah Valley). This roasted and rus- overtones. —V.B. 87 ter of which pops on the finish. —V.B. tically pleasing Montepulciano, which is hard to find in abv: 14.7% Price: $22 abv: 14.2% Price: $24 California, has dry tannins, a layer of boysenberry and a Four Vines 2010 Biker Zinfandel (Paso leathery mouthfeel. Pair it with roasted chicken or rich Villa Toscano 2010 Barbera (Shenan- Robles). This is soft, syrupy and seemingly risotto. —V.B. 84 doah Valley). This has dark, hearty fruit that abv: 14.6% Price: $24 sweet, with blackberry and dark chocolate notes. Its 85 is framed mostly around a taste of dried cherry. It’s a high alcohol gives it a headiness, but it represents the bit one-dimensional, finishing with a burst of leather. Chatom Vineyards 2009 Touriga Nacio- Paso Robles style. —S.H. —V.B. nal (Calaveras County). A juicy Touriga with abv: 14.8% Price: $25 87 abv: 14.7% Price: $22 nice structure and acidity, it bursts with notes of straw- Four Vines 2010 Maverick Zinfandel berry, cherry and vanilla spice, especially on the finish. Jacuzzi 2010 Barbera (Mendocino Coun- (Amador County). This straightforward A perfect pizza wine. —V.B. 84 ty). From a vineyard west of Ukiah, Jacuzzi abv: 14.5% Price: $24 mountain Zinfandel has big dark-fruit notes and a 84 Family’s Barbera seems tartly sweet, akin to raspberry cherry-­syrup finish, with textures of leather and tobac- syrup laced with vanilla. Soft and round, it has a finish Domenico 2006 Aglianico (Amador co. —V.B. like that of an aged Port. —V.B. County). This Amador Aglianico tastes of in- abv: 14.8% Price: $19 86 abv: 14.5% Price: $16 tense black cherry and dusty coffee. It exhibits all the Villa Toscano 2009 Centurion, Old Vine qualities of a mature wine, with firm, dry tannins and 84 Zinfandel (Shenandoah Valley). With its SANGIOVESE flavors of black olive and pepper, especially on the fin- dusty, leathery components that are wrapped in sweet ish. Pair it with heavy, meaty dishes cooked with veg- tannins this tastes typical. However, it’s a little austere in Monte Volpe 2009 Sangiovese (Mendoci- etables. —V.B. abv: 15.4% Price: $30 terms of fruit. —V.B. 88 no County). A gorgeous Mendocino County abv: 14.2% Price: $35 example of Sangiovese, this is fine in its tight baseline

WineMag.com | 61 Fenestra 2009 Silvaspoons Vineyard Seven of Hearts 2011 Pinot Gris (Ore- nice flower notes highlight the aromas, with flavors of 86 Touriga Nacional (Lodi). A wine with a soft 87 gon). Flavors of fresh apple and pear appear tart peach and citrus filling in the rest. —P.G. mouthfeel and clean finish, this takes time to open up. among light dusting of cinnamon spice. This makes for abv: 12.3% Price: $25 Once it does, the flavors are a swirl of sweet strawberry a wonderful quaffer. —P.G. and roses. —V.B. abv: 14.2% Price: $16 Hyland 2010 Riesling (McMinnville). This abv: 14.3% Price: $24 86 is crisp and refreshing, although it shows little Methven Family Vineyards 2011 Barrel of the complex aromatics that some obtain. 86 Fermented Pinot Gris (Willamette Val- Scents and flavors of green apples and white peaches DESSERT WINES ley). Soft and lightly oaky, this barrel-fermented wine carry through onto the modest finish. —P.G. has a lightly honeyed element, perhaps an indication of abv: 12.3% Price: $25 SIP 2011 Moscato (California). For full re- botrytis. The wine should be consumed young, as it is 87 view see page 12. Editors’ Choice. abv: 11% Price: $15 already showing signs of age in both color and mouth- feel. —P.G. OTHER WHITE WINES Barefoot NV Sweet Red (California). A abv: 13.2% Price: $21 Cowhorn 2011 Spiral 36 (Applegate Val- very sweet red blend, this has easy-to-like rasp- ley). A blend of biodynamically-farmed Mar- 84 Benton-Lane 2011 Pinot Gris (Willamette 91 berry and vanilla flavors. Give it a slight chill and drink sanne, Roussanne and Viognier, this is fragrant and flo- Valley). A light lime flavor comes with a pleas- it with ham sandwiches. Best Buy. —S.H. 85 ral, with richness on both the nose and the palate. Lush ing hint of tangerine in this wine. It becomes quite abv: 11% Price: $7 aromas of citrus and peach roll into bracing, concen- slender as it rapidly runs into a slightly metallic finish. trated fruit flavors, with good grip, natural acidity and —P.G. Dashe Cellars 2009 Late Harvest Zinfan- excellent length. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $17 84 del (Dry Creek Valley). This dessert wine is abv: 13.3% Price: $28 quite sweet, with a taste of caramelized brown sugar, but the raspberry and cherry flavors are disappointingly RIESLING Hyland 2011 Gewürztraminer (McMin- thin. —S.H. 88 nville). Quite dry and reaching just 12% alco- abv: 14.1% Price: $24/375 ml Trisaetum 2011 Ribbon Ridge Estate hol, this smells of rose petal and lychee fruit. It’s delicate 94 Riesling (Ribbon Ridge). For full review see and floral, showing dashes of lemon rind and mineral on page 5. Cellar Selection. the finish. —P.G. OREGON abv: 10.5% Price: $24 abv: 12.1% Price: $25 CHARDONNAY Trisaetum 2011 Estates Reserve Riesling 93 (Willamette Valley). This wine represents the ROSÉ Evening Land 2010 Summum Chardon- winemaker’s choice of the best barrels from the two es- Methven Family Vineyards 2011 Rosé 96 nay (Eola-Amity Hills). This sets a high stan- tate vineyards. It offers a full spectrum of fruits, from (Willamette Valley). This is a simple rosé dard for Oregon Chardonnay. Bright and snappy, yet citrus to stone to light tropical, with a grapefruit note 84 that could withstand some concentration. It was craft- deep and concentrated, it’s a symphony of lemon, citrus, dominating. Round and fruity, it remains crisp and even ed from barrel-fermented Pinot Noir, and it shows very stone and tropical fruits, well-differentiated yet perfect- a bit tart, despite the residual sugar. —P.G. light flavors of watermelon and strawberry. —P.G. ly integrated. The extraordinary length and precise fo- abv: 10% Price: $32 cus, along with the overall balance and structure, sug- abv: 12.6% Price: $15 gest that this should improve for many years to come. Trisaetum 2011 Ribbon Ridge Estate Dry Cellar Selection. —P.G. 93 Riesling (Ribbon Ridge). Gorgeous miner- PINOT NOIR abv: 13.1% Price: $90 ality is the underpinning of this estate bottling. Heaps of dry extract amplify racy lemon and lime flavors. Despite Evening Land 2010 Seven Springs Vine- Evening Land 2010 La Source Chardon- its low alcohol, this wine has exceptional concentration 95 yard La Source Pinot Noir (Eola-Amity 95 nay (Eola-Amity Hills). Gorgeously ripe fruit and power. Cellar Selection. —P.G. Hills). For full review see page 4. Cellar Selection. packs this wine with tropical flavors of cantaloupe, apri- abv: 11.5% Price: $24 abv: 13.1% Price: $60 cot and papaya. Lemony acid keeps it fresh and vibrant, and the overall texture and complexity are a revelation. Trisaetum 2011 Coast Range Estate Ries- Evening Land 2010 Seven Springs Vine- Both of Evening Land’s Chardonnays elevate the grape 92 ling (Yamhill-Carlton District). Packed with 94 yard Pinot Noir (Eola-Amity Hills). For full to new heights in this part of the Willamette Valley. Edi- juicy fruit flavors that recall a tart lemon drop or limon- review see page 5. Editors’ Choice. tors’ Choice. —P.G. cello cocktail, this low-alcohol beauty retains its power- abv: 13.3% Price: $45 abv: 13.1% Price: $60 ful acidity even as a dollop of residual sugar softens it. It’s full and round, with both power and precision. Edi- Le Cadeau 2010 Diversité Pinot Noir Seven of Hearts 2010 Mahonia Vineyard tors’ Choice. —P.G. 94 (Willamette Valley). For full review see page 84 Chardonnay (Willamette Valley). This sin- abv: 10.5% Price: $24 5. Editors’ Choice. gle-vineyard offering is almost transparent. Thin fruit abv: 13.1% Price: $48 runs quickly into a buttery finish. —P.G. Trisaetum 2011 Coast Range Estate Dry abv: 12.8% Price: $28 91 Riesling (Yamhill-Carlton District). The Adelsheim 2010 Elizabeth’s Reserve Pi- fruit explodes into the mouth with snap and tang; it’s 93 not Noir (Willamette Valley). The winery a rich riot of citrus, orange peel and crisp green apple. identifies this as “the best barrels from our best lots.” PINOT GRIS The wine is full-bodied and luscious, despite the low Supple and streaked with chocolate and caramel, this explosion of cherry, cassis, cola and Dr. Pepper con- Acrobat 2011 Pinot Gris (Oregon). This alcohol. —P.G. tains sneaky notes of tobacco and pepper threaded runs to the tart, lemony style of Pinot Gris, com- abv: 11.5% Price: $24 87 through the lingering finish. Richness and depth prevail mon in cool vintages. Citrus and gooseberry flavors are throughout. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. balanced against refreshing minerality, and the acidity is Hyland 2011 Riesling (McMinnville). abv: 13.4% Price: $55 neither harsh nor simply sour. Best Buy. —P.G. 87 There seems to be a bit of residual sugar in this abv: 12.5% Price: $12 wine, just enough to offset the searing acidity. Some

62 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | DECEMBER 2012 Le Cadeau 2010 Équinoxe Pinot Noir up with a pumpkin pie accent. Round, rich and full, yet Trisaetum 2010 Estates Reserve Pinot 93 (Willamette Valley). For full review see page moderate in alcohol, this is a fine expression of Oregon 91 Noir (Ribbon Ridge). Several hours passed 6. Editors’ Choice. Pinot Noir in a challenging vintage. —P.G. before the bottling aromas blew off and this wine began abv: 13.1% Price: $48 abv: 13.2% Price: $70 to show its fruit. By then it tasted of pretty strawberry and cherry, with herb and earth notes running into the Le Cadeau 2009 Côte Est Reserve Pinot Patton Valley 2010 West Block Pinot Noir finish. As a reserve, it seems surprisingly lighter than the 93 Noir (Oregon). For full review see page 6. 92 (Willamette Valley). All the 2010 Patton Val- regular bottlings of the two component wines from the abv: 13.8% Price: $75 ley Pinots are significantly lower in alcohol than the pre- same vintage. —P.G. vious vintage, and it works to their advantage. Nuanced abv: 13.3% Price: $75 Trisaetum 2010 Ribbon Ridge Estate Pi- fruit flavors include rhubarb and tart cherry, with veins 93 not Noir (Ribbon Ridge). For full review see of cola and dark chocolate adding further complexity. Its Adelsheim 2010 Ribbon Springs Vine- page 7. Cellar Selection. length is excellent. —P.G. 90 yard Pinot Noir (Ribbon Ridge). The fla- abv: 13.6% Price: $55 abv: 13.2% Price: $48 vors of this wine play out broadly across the palate: a blend of strawberry, mocha and moist earth, with a Adelsheim 2010 Pinot Noir (Willamette Trisaetum 2010 Coast Range Estate Pi- highlight of tea tannin on the finish. There is generous 92 Valley). Even at $32, this remains one of Or- 92 not Noir (Yamhill-Carlton District). Notes acidity and excellent balance, as with all of the 2010 sin- egon’s best-value Pinot Noirs. This 2010 offering is of cola, earth, sassafras and spicy berry bring a textural, gle-vineyard offerings from Adelsheim. —P.G. racy and refined. Tangy raspberry fruit accompanies a diverse set of flavors to this mellow Pinot Noir. With a abv: 13.9% Price: $68 luscious streak of smooth, dark chocolate. The espres- hint of dried herb, it shows fine balance and impressive so-drenched finish is a finely tuned detail.Editors’ complexity. —P.G. Patton Valley 2010 10 Acre Pinot Noir Choice. —P.G. abv: 13.2% Price: $55 90 (Willamette Valley). Sourced from the oldest abv: 13.4% Price: $32 block of the estate vineyard, this is a soft, almost buttery Adelsheim 2010 Boulder Bluff Vineyard wine initially. In the mouth, some spicy tannins kick in, Adelsheim 2010 Quarter Mile Lane Vine- 91 Pinot Noir (Chehalem Mountains). This while the core flavors remain brightly fruity and lightly 92 yard Pinot Noir (Chehalem Mountains). well-defined, single-vineyard offering has bright, tight, dusted with chocolate. —P.G. Using grapes sourced from estate vines planted in 1972, and focused raspberry and cherry flavors in abundance. abv: 13.2% Price: $48 this wine is comparable, in its subtlety and delicate el- The sharp acidity and highlight of fresh herb speak to egance, to an old-vine Zinfandel. Strawberry and spice the distinctiveness of the vineyard. This wine will ben- Hyland 2010 Pinot Noir (McMinnville). run through the core, with brambly highlights and ex- efit from additional bottle age. —P.G. 89 A tart and brambly Pinot, this old-vine bot- cellent balance. The wine is still a bit closed, so give it a abv: 13.8% Price: $68 tling is accented by whiffs of herb and grain. Raspberry good decanting, or leave it alone for a few more years. and strawberry are the fruit flavors, carrying the wine —P.G. Adelsheim 2010 Calkins Lane Vineyard through an elegant, medium-long finish. —P.G. abv: 13.2% Price: $105 91 Pinot Noir (Chehalem Mountains). This abv: 13.7% Price: $35 compensates for having less alchol than its previous vin- Adelsheim 2010 Winderlea Vineyard Pi- tage with added complexity. A mélange of cranberry, Le Cadeau 2010 Rocheux Pinot Noir (Or- 92 not Noir (Dundee Hills). The Winderlea is black cherry and bright spice, this feels full and round 89 egon). This low-alcohol charmer has sweet perhaps the most unique in terms of style and flavor in the mouth, with excellent concentration. Details of scents of strawberry, raspberry and cherry. It has a nice among all the 2010 Adelsheim single-vineyard Pinots. spice and coffee linger through the palate and onto a mouthfeel, with just a lick of minerality running through Its distinctive minerality accompanies tart cranberry cleansing finish. Cellar Selection. —P.G. it, elevating the wine beyond mere fruitiness. —P.G. and cherry notes, citrusy acidity with a splash of grape- abv: 13% Price: $68 abv: 13.1% Price: $48 fruit flavor, and a finish that tastes of coffee and tea. Complex and long, this is a wine that will surely spark Adelsheim 2010 Zenith Vineyard Pinot The Eyrie Vineyards 2010 Pinot Noir some heated discussion. Cellar Selection. —P.G. 91 Noir (Eola-Amity Hills). The aroma sends 89 (Dundee Hills). Young Pinot Noir from Ey- abv: 13.1% Price: $105 up hints of Bourbon-soaked raisins, leading onto a rie can seem light, tart and markedly herbal. Decant it, soft, smooth, and very pretty palate. There’s plenty of swirl it, or—better yet—age it, and the nuances turn Evening Land 2010 Seven Springs Vine- raspberry flavor, and a suggestion of thick, dark bal- into discreet flavors that bring complexity and charac- 92 yard Red Queen Pinot Noir (Eola-Amity samic vinegar on the finish. A dash of nutmeg, from 10 ter. Tight and earthy, this is dotted with notes of spicy, Hills). The Red Queen bottling is Evening Land’s most months in one-third new French oak, is the icing on the peppery herbs. The concentration and balance suggest limited in terms of production. The grapes are sourced cake. —P.G. a long life ahead. Cellar Selection. —P.G. from a block in the estate vineyard at the highest point abv: 13.5% Price: $90 abv: 13.5% Price: $35 of the hill, and the wine is aged in 30% new French oak for 14 months. Tasted a few weeks prior to its official Aubichon Cellars 2010 Reserve Pinot Aubichon Cellars 2010 Pinot Noir (Willa- release, it was stubbornly unyielding, even after a full 24 91 Noir (Willamette Valley). The lovely, lush 88 mette Valley). Aubichon’s Willamette Valley hours. Given the pedigree of this estate, and the superb aromas on the nose include red fruit, cocoa and cara- bottling enters softly with a mix of rhubarb and cher- quality of the two other 2010 Pinots, it is reasonable to mel, with a splash of nectarine as well. The wild cherry ry, with tart lemony acids. It’s approachable and nicely expect this to come out of its hard shell and earn a much core carries extra complexity, and the moderate alcohol styled, ready to drink immediately, with enough acidity higher score. —P.G. keeps the wine elegant through its finish. Cellar Selec- to pair with rich sauces. Just a hint of chocolate winds abv: 13% Price: $75 tion. —P.G. through the finish. —P.G. abv: 13.1% Price: $45 abv: 13.1% Price: $35 Le Cadeau 2010 Côte Est Pinot Noir (Or- 92 egon). For full review see page 8. Cellar Se- Patton Valley 2010 Estate Pinot Noir (Wil- Lenné Estate 2010 Jill’s 115 Pinot Noir lection. 91 lamette Valley). This producer gains polish 88 (Yamhill-Carlton District). This pleasing ef- abv: 13.1% Price: $48 and precision with each new vintage. The entry-level fort is light but interesting. It first introduces flavors of estate bottling is a pretty, elegant wine. It offers sweet strawberry and rhubarb, with a dash of pepper. A whiff Patton Valley 2010 Lorna Marie Pinot berry and cocoa flavors; it’s clean, pure, crisply-defined of root vegetables does not interfere with the overall en- 92 Noir (Willamette Valley). The Lorna Marie and long lasting. —P.G. joyment, and a lick of chocolate lifts the finish. —P.G. is the winery’s reserve, and it has exceptional concen- abv: 13.2% Price: $38 abv: 14% Price: $45 tration and depth. Berry and cherry dominate, spiced

WineMag.com | 63 Swiftwater Cellars 2009 Pinot Noir (Wil- fun, but the wine thins out rapidly onto a quick finish. The Wine Enthusiast 88 lamette Valley). Consulting winemaker Tony —P.G. Rynders was at Oregon’s Domaine Serene for a number abv: 12.6% Price: $19 Statement of Ownership, of years. This is forward and fruity, with a chocolaty base and just a hint of alcoholic heat. Drink this one while it’s Pheasant Valley Winery 2007 Chukar Management, and Circulation young. —P.G. 85 Ridge Syrah (Columbia Valley). This is al- abv: 14.4% Price: $55 ready drying out, its fruit fading and its mouthfeel turn- Publication title: Wine Enthusiast Magazine Publication No. ing a bit woody. There’s a trace of of tart berry fruit, with 1078-3318. Issue Frequency: Monthly plus 1 special issue. Seven of Hearts 2010 Special Reserve plenty of drying tannins. Drink now. —P.G. No. of issues published annually: 13. Annual subscription 87 Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley). This is an abv: 15.4% Price: $21 price: $34.95. Complete mailing address of known office earthy Pinot, showing layers of leaf, stem and clay. A of publication: 333 North Bedford Road, Mount Kisco, tart cranberry flavor balances out the core, with drying NY 10549-1158; Contact person, Barbara Gianisis, tannins through the finish. —P.G. telephone: (914) 345-9463. Complete mailing address abv: 13.5% Price: $42 of headquarters or general business offices of publisher: 333 North Bedford Road, Mount Kisco, NY 10549-1158. TeBri Vineyards 2009 Select Pinot Noir Publisher and Editor: Adam M. Strum; Owner, Adam 87 (Willamette Valley). The Select bottling, M. Strum. Issue date for circulation data: October 2012 which appears to be TeBri’s reserve, shows medium concentration, with strawberry and cherry flavors. Cola, earth, caramel and chocolate notes come together on Extent and nature of circulation: the pretty finish. —P.G. A. Total number of copies (net press run): Average no. abv: 13.9% Price: $36 copies each issue during preceding 12 months: 93,486; Actual no. copies of single issue published nearest to filing Benton-Lane 2010 Estate Pinot Noir (Wil- date: 83,667 86 lamette Valley). A pretty, inviting nose sug- B. Paid circulation: (1) Mailed outside-county Paid gests sweet cherry and cherry blossom. On the light- subscriptions (Include paid distribution above nominal rate, bodied palate, the wine shows earthiness. It’s pleasant advertiser proof copies, and exchange copies: Average no. and just right for near-term enjoyment. —P.G. copies each issue during preceding 12 months: 73,128; abv: 13.5% Price: $25 Actual no. copies of single issue published nearest to filing date: 64,244. (3) Sales through dealers and carriers, TeBri Vineyards 2009 Estate Pinot Noir street vendors, counter sales and other non-USPS 83 (Willamette Valley). High toned and sharp paid distribution: Average no. copies each issue during edged, this should probably be consumed quickly. preceding 12 months: 5,091; Actual no. copies of single Scents of petrol run into a barely-ripe flavor of rhubarb. issue published nearest to filing date: 5,092. —P.G. C. Total paid distribution (Sum of 15 b (1), (2), (3),(4): abv: 13.9% Price: $20 Average no. copies each issue during preceding 12 months: 78,219; Actual no. copies of single issue published nearest to filing date: 69,336. OTHER RED WINES D. Free distribution by mail and outside mail: (1) Outside county: Average no. copies each issue during preceding 12 Pheasant Valley Winery 2009 Chukar months: 1,782; Actual no. copies of single issue published 88 Ridge (Columbia Valley). nearest to filing date: 1,805. (2) In county: Average no. Chewy tannins give this wine a rustic edge, but the copies each issue during preceding 12 months: 0; Actual black cherry fruit and notes of fresh-cut tobacco are au- no. copies of single issue published nearest to filing date: 0. thentic to the variety. The finish is mouth-drying, which (3) Other classes mailed: 0. (4) Free distribution outside the would make it just right with a fat cut of beef. —P.G. mail: Average no. 4,554; Actual no. copies of single issue abv: 14.3% Price: $28 published nearest to filing date: 3,343 E. Total free or nominal rate distribution (sum of 15d (1) (2) Cowhorn 2010 Grenache 58 Grenache (3) (4): Average no. copies each issue during preceding 12 87 (Applegate Valley). This is a pure Grenache, months: 6,327. Actual no. copies of single issue published tart and spicy, with powerful herb components. It is not nearest to filing date: 5,148 fruity or sappy-sweet by any measure, but it delivers F. Total distribution (sum of 15c and 15e): Average no. moderately concentrated flavors highlighted by herb copies each issue during preceding 12 months: 84,545. and earth notes, with good length and balance. —P.G. Actual no. copies of single issue published nearest to filing abv: 13.2% Price: $30 date: 74,484 G. Copies not distributed: Average no. copies each issue Pheasant Valley Winery 2009 Primitivo during preceding 12 months: 8,940; Actual no. copies of 87 (Columbia Valley). Rustic and full bodied, single issue published nearest to filing date: 9,163. this Oregon Primitivo is plenty ripe, yet it retains nu- H. Total (Sum of 15f and g): Average no. copies each issue ances of olive and herb, along with thick red fruit. A during preceding 12 months: 93,486. Actual no. copies of whisper of smoke weaves through the finish. —P.G. single issue published nearest to filing date: 88,667. abv: 15% Price: $30 I. Percent paid (15c divided by 15f times 100): Average no. copies each issue during preceding 12 months: 92.52%; Methven Family Vineyards 2011 Actual no. copies of single issue published nearest to filing 85 Noir (Eola-Amity Hills). Fragrant, with a date: 93.09%. grapy appeal, this pure Gamay Noir comes on like a I certify that all information furnished on this form is true fresh Beaujolais. The cherry candy flavor is fruity and and complete. Adam M. Strum, Owner. Date: 9/30/12

64 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | DECEMBER 2012 SPIRITS ses, sourced from one of the oldest sugar-cane fields in PUERTO RICAN RUM Central America. abv: 40% Price: $22

ypically, rums wear their places of worth a try. Captain Morgan Black Spiced Rum (St. origin like badges of honor, and Puerto According to Ed Hamilton, who runs 87 Croix, V.I.; Diageo Americas, Norwalk, Rico is no exception—the territory the rum-centric Ministry of Rum Web site CT). This new spiced blackstrap rum is dark and dan- T gerous, with a cola-like flavor that explodes into spicy even bills itself as “the rum capital of the (ministryofrum.com), one of the most popular of cinnamon and clove. Rum aged in double- world.” By some estimates, as much as 80% ways locals in Puerto Rico consume rum charred blackened barrels results in an oaky, slightly bit- of the rum consumed in the United States during the winter months is in the form of an ter edge. Some may prefer the lighter hand of the origi- originates from Puerto Rico. eggnog-like drink called coquito. nal Captain Morgan for rum and Cokes. In Puerto Rico, the rums are typically “There is a long-standing tradition of abv: 50% Price: $22 distilled in a lighter style compared to many flavoring rum with coconut milk or cream (of FlipFlop Spiced Rum (Caribbean; Un- of the other islands, and Bacardi, one of the coconut) and other spices to make coquito,” 86 derdog Wine & Spirits, Livermore, CA). best-known brands, is a top producer of these he explains. The drink primarily is consumed Proceeds from this light-gold spiced rum benefit lighter, approachable Puerto Rican rums. “during the long holiday season that starts Soles4Souls, an international shoe charity providing Another name for rum-lovers to learn before Christmas and runs through Three footwear to those in need. Flavors run to vanilla and is Don Q, whose fuller-bodied rums are Kings Day, twelve days after Christmas.” clove, a fine match for tropical-style cocktails. The play- ful label sports a floral Hawaiian-shirt motif. developed using the blending system Rounding out the rum theme are reviews abv: 35% Price: $14 used for fine —a fractional aging of several new rums from beyond Puerto method, where new batches of (or Rico, incorporating a wide array of ages and Geronimo’s Treasure Island Spiced Rum rum) are regularly added to old batches. The provenances, and one caçhaca, a close cousin 85 (Caribbean; Arcadia Imports, Plainville, CT). This pale-gold spiced rum has sweet vanilla and delectable Gran Añejo (previously reviewed) to rum. cola aromas, with mild flavors of honey, cassia bark and and Añejo bottlings are both particularly Cheers! —Kara Newman clove. Mix with cola or fruit juice. abv: 35% Price: $12

PUERTO RICAN RUMS OTHER RUMS CAÇHACA Don Q Añejo (Puerto Rico; Serralles USA, Appleton Estate 12-Year-Old (; Maison Leblon Signature Merlet-Aged 92 Irving, TX). Smooth and mellow, this tawny 93 Kobrand Corporation, New York, NY). 94 Caçhaca (Brazil; Leblon USA, Manhas- aged rum features light almond and crème brûlée fla- Hailing from Jamaica, this smooth 12-year-old rum fea- set, NY). Most caçhacas are crystal-clear, but this vors, and a long finish accented by notes of black tea tures a sticky dark-toffee aroma accented by almond unique aged version has a pretty amber cast and entic- and clove. It’s good for sipping with a block of ice. Made and peach notes. On the palate, look for a nice rounded ing aromas that evoke butterscotch and hazelnut. The from a blend of rums aged 2–7 years. Best Buy. caramel flavor that flashes lots of clove and cinnamon flavor runs to brown sugar, with a warm, nutty finish. abv: 40% Price: $20 tones on the finish. Delicious, and new to the market as of summer 2012. abv: 43% Price: $35 abv: 42% Price: $30/375 ml Bacardi Oakheart (Puerto Rico; Bacardi 90 USA, Miami, FL). This amber spiced rum, Arehucas Ron Miel Guanche (Spain; READY-TO-DRINK which debuted last October, is aged in charred oak bar- 90 Copa Spirits, Jacksonville, FL). For full rels, yielding a smooth, oaky vanilla flavor with a bit of review see page 12. Bacardi Light Mojito (Puerto Rico; Bacar- spice on the lingering finish. Use as a mixer for rum and abv: 20% Price: $30 88 di USA, Miami, FL). Supposedly, the mojito is cola or in tiki-inspired . Best Buy. the drink that bartenders hate to make—that muddling abv: 35% Price: $13 Whistling Andy Hibiscus-Coconut Rum of the fresh mint and lime juice is tedious. Bacardi’s 89 (USA; Whistling Andy, Big Fork, MT). ready-to-drink version goes down easy, like minty lime- Caliche Puerto Rican Rum (Puerto Rico; With its transparent pink-blush hue that was imparted ade. It’s no substitute for the real thing, but it’s not a 88 Serralles USA, Irving, TX). A collaboration from hibiscus flowers, this unusual flavored white rum bad way to enjoy a mojito at home without suffering the between rum producer Roberto Serralles and nightlife resembles rosé wine in the glass. But the delicate flavors bartender’s scowl. Fewer than 95 calories per serving. impresario Rande Gerber, this clear rum has a mild, tend toward sugary coconut, touched with vanilla and a abv: 12.5% Price: $15 sweet coconut flavor and a faint citrusy tang. Made with hint of juicy red fruit. Made from sugar cane in a Mon- rum aged up to four years, it’s presented in a rustic- tana microdistillery. Use for tropical drinks. looking bottle with a rope coiled around the neck. Mix abv: 40% Price: $24 it into fruity daiquiris and mai tais. abv: 40% Price: $25 Fortuna Añejo (Nicaragua; BerNiko, Mi- 88 ami, FL). Give this amber rum, which is made Bacardi Black Razz (Puerto Rico; Ba- using rums aged between 8–10 years, a chance to open 87 cardi USA, Miami, FL). As a mixer, this clear, up in the glass. The reward is a warm, honey-like flavor flavored rum should appeal to the -tonic crowd. touched with notes of dry tea and oak, with a toffee ac- Look for a sugared berry scent and a juicy, mouthwater- cent toward the back of the palate. The lingering, warm ing raspberry flavor. finish is reminiscent of brandy. Made with 100% molas- abv: 35% Price: $15

WineMag.com | 65 BEER roasted-malt flavors at the center, but framed by notes of bittersweet cocoa, espresso bean and burnt caramel that are well integrated throughout the nose and mouth. THE SEASON FOR STOUTS The palate is deep and robust, with a touch of hop bit- terness that unfolds on the dry finish. here are very few beer buffs that don’t craft brewers have taken the classic English or abv: 6.4% Price: $9/12 oz 6 pack enjoy a good stout, especially once the Irish stout to a whole new extreme, producing Tcool winter months arrive. There’s little a wide array of styles. From dry, easy-drinking Dogfish Head Chicory Stout (American to compare with the satisfaction that a good, stouts to barrel-aged flavor bombs, the amount 90 Stout; Dogfish Head Craft Brewery, DE). strong stout offers on a chilly day, except maybe of creativity and experimentation that goes into Dogfish’s winter seasonal selection is a tasty and quite sessionable stout that’s brewed with organic Mexican a mug of cocoa—but why have cocoa when these offerings is nothing short of amazing. coffee, St. John’s Wort, licorice root and roasted chic- you can go with beer? The intense flavors and Hops are frequently used, and their influence ory. There’s no shortage of aroma or flavor, but they’re occasionally high alcohol levels found in stouts can vary in intensity from moderate to high. all balanced and layered; no one ingredient overpowers often provide a fantastic warming sensation, Imperial stouts offer elevated amounts of the rest or overwhelms the classic and expected roasted- soothing the soul and heating the body from everything: increased alcohols (about 7–12% malt core. Medium-high carbonation keeps the palate fresh and lively, and the finish is tinged with accents of the inside. Not to mention they’re delicious. versus 4–8% for others), full mouthfeels and charred wood, medium-roast coffee and raw cocoa nibs. There are so many different styles of stouts moderately to aggressively hoppy characters. abv: 5.2% Price: $9/12 oz 4 pack available that there is almost certainly a bottling Many stouts are also excellent cellar for any palate. Though they’re all flavorful, candidates. Bold profiles of intense flavors and Karl Strauss Wreck Alley Imperial Stout (American Double/Imperial Stout; Karl each will vary in intensity, weight, alcohol and high alcohols suggest longevity; they can evolve 89 Strauss Company, CA). Brewed with dark overall drinkability, depending on the specific into even more complex and layered selections. kilned malts, cocoa nibs and Ethiopian coffee beans, brewer and style. Though folks might worry that this style is this is one intense stout that packs a sweet punch. It’s Many consider Russian imperial stouts too strong to pair with food, a robust stout is brimming with mocha aroma and flavor, framed by to be king, with their high alcohols (usually actually a great choice to serve alongside hearty notes of baking spice, licorice root, burnt sugar and a touch of molasses. The palate is full bodied with me- between 8–12%) and intense, roasted malt fare like smoky barbecue, grilled game or dium carbonation, and there’s pleasing warmth on the profiles. Others might prefer oatmeal stouts, thick, meaty chili. They can also complement finish, closing on a note of resiny hops. which are full bodied, with moderate alcohol flavorful cheeses like Gouda or Havarti. And abv: 9.5% Price: $8/22 oz levels (usually between 4–7%) and creaminess let’s not forget about anything chocolate, for from the addition of oats to the mash. which stouts are a match made in heaven. INTERNATIONAL And then there’s America. Today, American Prost! —Lauren Buzzeo STOUTS Samuel Smith’s Imperial Stout (Rus- AMERICAN STOUTS brew. Rich chocolate and caramel notes abound, with 93 sian Imperial Stout; Samuel Smith’s Old supporting accents of sweet, oaky spice, roasted malt, Brewery (Tadcaster), England). This reliable se- Avery Annual Barrel Series Uncle Ja- dark brown sugar and dried red berry. With a texture lection from Samuel Smith’s is intense yet drinkable. It 95 cob’s Stout (American Double/Imperial like crushed velvet, medium carbonation and woody pours a dark, almost black color with a frothy, mocha- Stout; Avery Brewing Co, CO). This is a seriously tannins, there’s a solid structure here that, coupled with colored head. A forward aroma of roasted malt takes good sipping stout that is best enjoyed with friends, giv- the intense profile, promises even more longevity and center stage on the nose, but supporting notes of cof- en the high alcohol and intense profile, but it’s remark- development in the years to come. Cellar Selection. fee, cocoa, licorice root and a touch of caramel add di- able how dangerously smooth and well balanced it actu- abv: 11% Price: $12/22 oz mension. Dark fruit flavors—blackberry, black plum ally is. Aged in first-use Bourbon barrels for six months, and fig—unfold on the palate and marry harmoniously it’s loaded with heady aromas and flavors that can’t be Stone Imperial Russian Stout 2012 Re- with the characteristics of roasted espresso, burnt bread ignored. Lush, sweet flavors of toffee, chocolate, crème 94 lease (Russian Imperial Stout; Stone crust and brown sugar. A soft citrus-oil accent graces de cassis, molasses and chicory root dance on the rich, Brewing Co., CA). Another classic from Stone, this the long finish. mouth-filling palate. The Bourbon barrel notes really continues the brewery’s tradition of offering a classic abv: 7.0% Price: $4/550 ml shine on the finish, with sweet smoke, vanilla and bak- style with its own unique, American angle. Full and ing spice flavors that linger endlessly. Only 694 cases hearty yet balanced, the dark-roasted core and deca- Samuel Smith’s Oatmeal Stout (Oat- produced. Cellar Selection. dent mocha and caramel flavors are countered and 92 meal Stout; Samuel Smith’s Old Brew- abv: 17.42% Price: $10/12 oz grounded by forward flavors of hop and resin, with a ery (Tadcaster), England). Balanced and exception- tobacco-like earthiness. Secondary accents of licorice ally smooth, this pours an opaque dark-brown color in Deschutes The Abyss 2011 Reserve root, baking spice, molasses and dried black currant add the glass, with a glimmer of soft garnet and a dense tan 95 (American Double/Imperial Stout; De- depth to the palate and linger through the softly bitter head. Initial aromas of milky oatmeal and whole-grain schutes Brewery, OR). Although this beer—the and appropriately warm close. A great cellaring candi- bread are followed by nuances of sweet spice and dried sixth edition of The Abyss—was released at the end of date, especially as you can build a vertical of several vin- fruit, almost like cinnamon-raisin bread. The mouthfeel 2011, it’s really just starting to come into its own now. tage releases. Cellar Selection. is lush and creamy, but with good carbonation to keep The bottles are marked “Best After 8/4/12,” and there’s abv: 10.5% Price: $7/22 oz the dense flavors of toasted grain, milk chocolate and still plenty of time left for this beauty to linger in your lightly roasted coffee from feeling too heavy. Touches of cellar. It’s brewed with blackstrap molasses and lico- Deschutes Obsidian Stout (American sweet smoke and hop linger on the long finish. rice, enhanced by additions of cherry bark and vanilla, 93 Stout; Deschutes Brewery, OR). Although abv: 5.0% Price: $4/500 ml then aged in barrels previously used for Bourbon and Deschutes releases some amazing seasonal and limit- Pinot Noir production, as well as new oak from Oregon. ed-edition bottlings, this year-round selection is not to There’s no shortage of aromas or flavors in this decadent be overlooked. It’s a classic comfort, loaded with rich

66 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | FEBRUARY 2012

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