Faust 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa and a Little Rustic
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BUYING GUIDE DECEMBER 2012 A bunch of Furmint grapes, with some botrytis-affected (aszú) berries, in Tokaj, Hungary. 40 CHILE 2 CENTRAL AND 47 CALIFORNIA EASTERN EUROPE 62 OREGON 16 ITALY 65 SPIRITS 25 FRANCE 66 BEER 33 PORTUGAL FOR ADDITIONAL RATINGS AND REVIEWS, VISIT 40 BRAZIL BUYINGGUIDE.WINEMAG.COM © HERBERT LEHMANN © HERBERT 40 URUGUAY WineMag.com | 1 CENTRAL AND EASTERN EUROPE OFF THE BEATEN OLD-WORLD PATH hen categorizing the world of wine into Old World and New acterized by extended macerations, resulting in gorgeously textured, gold- World, there’s often little mention of the wines of Central and hued wines that bristle with grape tannins. WEastern Europe. But these regions of the Old World have no- Hungary is best known in the American market for Tokaji’s sublime des- tably rich histories, and amidst centuries of war and shifting political sert wines, but the region is increasingly gaining a reputation for crafting boundaries, some have continued to make wine for more than 8,000 years. quality dry white wines made from traditional Tokaji grapes as well as in- Georgia, Macedonia and Romania have some of the longest wine-making ternational varieties. histories in the world. Slovenia, particularly the Primorska region, which lies adjacent to Ita- This month, we review over 60 wines from our Other Europe category, ly’s Friuli, boasts an array of powerful, full-bodied whites, and some stun- a category that includes wines from Bulgaria, Croatia, Georgia, Romania, ning red wines as well. Slovakia, Slovenia and Turkey. While limited availability allows us to review only a small portion of the The widespread availability of these wines in the United States is quite wines from these fascinating regions, we relish the opportunity to get to recent. But for American consumers, wines from these regions represent know them and to share them with you. an opportunity to delve into the epic history of winemaking and to discov- Also in this Buying Guide, we review the latest crop of sparkling wines er unique grape varieties and regional winemaking styles, often at incred- from France and Italy, as well as new releases of table wines from Spain and ible values. Portugal. From the New World, check out reviews of wines from Chile and Georgia boasts not only the oldest record of winemaking, but helped to Brazil, plus hundreds more reviews of wines from California and Oregon. establish “orange wines,” an ancient style of white-wine making that’s char- Cheers! —ANNA LEE C. IIJIMA BULGARIA Targovishte 2011 Premium Quality Dry chocolate-kissed finish. Blue Danube Wine Co. Best 83 Sauvignon Blanc (Black Sea Coastal). Buy. —A.I. Domaine Boyar 2009 Reserve Caber- Grassy with green leaf and fresh-cut herb notes, this abv: 12.5% Price: $13 87 net Sauvignon (Thracian Valley). Pristine dry, easy-drinking wine boasts lively lime-juice acidity flavors of cassis and black cherry give an elegant flo- and pleasant apple flavor. Slightly dusty notes of dried Frano Milos 2008 Plavac (Pelješac). Aera- ral quality to this dry, full-bodied Cabernet. Crisp with herb and reed distract on the finish. Bulgarian Master 88 tion is key to deciphering the layers of barnyard, acidity, it’s balanced and impeccably crafted. It finish- Vintners. —A.I. leather, earth and tannin that dominate the attack of this es long on a delicious coffee-inflected note. Bulgarian abv: 12% Price: $9 brawny, bold wine. With time, a multitude of delicate Master Vintners. Best Buy. —A.I. red-fruit, flower and hay notes unfold, contributing a abv: 13% Price: $9 feminine flair that’s elegantly appealing. Blue Danube CROATIA Wine Co. —A.I. abv: 13.6% Price: $25 Targovishte 2011 Premium Quality Dry Korta Katarina 2007 Plavac Mali 86 Muskat Ottonel (Black Sea Coastal). (Pelješac). Like Korta Katarina’s Reuben’s 90 Bastianich 2010 Adriatico Malvasia Is- Fresh and floral, this is abundantly fragrant with notes Reserve, there’s an elegant floral quality that unites rus- triana (Istria). Though aromatically subdued, of sweet cherry blossom and freshly cut herb. The pal- tic red fruit, earth and animal characteristics. Intense- 87 there’s an intensity of tangerine and lime zest flavor in ate is crisp and dry, with zesty hints of underripe stone ly concentrated with crisp sour-plum acidity, it finishes this dry, invigorating Malvasia. The midpalate is marked fruit and lemon. Brisk and clean on the finish. Bulgarian long, with a bristle of bold-yet-velvety tannins. Katha- by elegant white-flower notes that linger on the slightly Master Vintners. Best Buy. —A.I. rine’s Garden LLC. —A.I. astringent lime-pith finish. Dark Star Imports. —A.I. abv: 12% Price: $10 abv: 15.5% Price: $38 abv: 12.5% Price: $16 Domaine Boyar 2007 Royal Reserve Ma- Korta Katarina 2007 Reuben’s Private Korta Katarina 2009 Pošip (Kor ula). 84 vrud (Thracian Valley). Earthy on the nose Reserve Plavac Mali (Pelješac). Coarse 90 Waxy notes of white flower and orange peel and palate, with prominent mushroom and smoke tannins and tones of smoke, sun-dried hay and cocoa 87 persist on the nose and palate of this bold, invigorating notes, this is a massively tannic wine, with a hefty serv- powder add a bold, brawny dimension to the fleshy, ripe wine. Dry and full bodied, it’s structured and concen- ing of pulpy black-fruit flavor. It is full-bodied, with a bit plum and cherry flavors on this wine. A pretty note of trated, but it finishes crisply with hints of tart tangerine of heat on the finish. Bulgarian Master Vintners. —A.I. violet perfume and bright acidity persist from start to and hazelnut skin. Katharine’s Garden LLC. —A.I. abv: 13.5% Price: $16 finish, adding shades of elegance. Katharine’s Garden abv: 13.7% Price: $24 LLC. —A.I. Targovishte 2011 Premium Quality Dry abv: 15.4% Price: $57 84 Riesling (Black Sea Coastal). Aromas of Korta Katarina 2010 Rosé Plavac Mali and Zinfandel (Pelješac). The lavors of can- sweet honey and caramelized sugar on this Bulgarian Dinga Winery 2010 Plavac Mali 83 died red cherry and flower are pleasant, but dusty herb Riesling belie a palate that’s crisp, dry and bristling with (Pelješac). Unusually balanced, this delicate 89 notes distract on the nose and palate. It’s a big wine at acidity. Fresh lemon and apple flavors lack concentra- Plavac Mali is a great introduction to a fascinating Croa- 13.9% abv, but zesty acidity keeps it relatively balanced. tion but finish briskly with a hint of dusty minerality. tian grape variety. The palate is soft and fleshy, with ripe Katharine’s Garden LLC. —A.I. Bulgarian Master Vintners. —A.I. red-cherry and plum flavors, but flecked with hints of abv: 13.9% Price: $21 abv: 12% Price: $9 hay, dried flower and herb. Delicate tannins frame the Continued on Page 14 2 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | DECEMBER 2012 The Wine Enthusiast Buying Guide The Buying Guide includes ratings and reviews of new- release and selected older beverage alcohol products evaluated by Wine Enthusiast Magazine’s editors and other qualified tasters. Regular contributors to our Buying Guide include Tasting Director Lauren Buzzeo, Assistant Tasting Director Anna Lee C. Iijima, Executive Editor Susan Kostrzewa, Managing Editor Joe Czerwinski, Associate Editor Andrew Hoover, Contributing Editor Michael Flowers 2010 Sea View Ridge Estate Schachner and Spirits Editor Kara Newman in New York, 98 Vineyard Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). European Editor Roger Voss in Bordeaux, Italian Editor A cool climate has given this wine bracing acidity and Jarvis 2010 Finch Hollow Estate Grown Monica Larner in Rome, California Editor Steve Heimoff in Oakland, Contributing Editor Paul Gregutt in Seattle and gentle-yet-persistent tannins. Its flavors of wild raspber- 96 Cave Fermented Unfiltered Chardonnay Contributing Editor Virginie Boone in Santa Rosa. ries and cherries, with spice and mineral overtones, are (Napa Valley). Astonishingly rich, this is everything If a wine was evaluated by a single reviewer, that taster’s delicious. There’s a feral quality that expresses umami you want a Chardonnay to be. It’s fantastically concen- initials appear following the note. When no initials appear perfectly, suggesting butter-sautéed, tamari-splashed trated in pineapple, guava, green apple, pear and lime following a wine review, the wine was evaluated by two or more reviewers and the score and tasting note reflect mushrooms and crisped prosciutto. The oak is powerful fruits; it’s creamy and suave in lees influence; and it’s the input of all tasters. Unless otherwise stated, all Spirits and present in the form of toast and sweet vanilla, but brisk in acidity, despite undergoing malolactic fermen- Reviews are by Kara Newman and all beer reviews are by perfectly balanced with the wine’s volume. For all its tation. The texture is honeyed, with a perfect touch of Lauren Buzzeo. richness, the wine finishes bone dry. Drink this impec- smoky, new French oak. The estate grapes come from Each review contains a score, the full name of the product, its suggested national retail price, its abv as reported to us by cable Pinot Noir now through 2020. —S.H. the winery’s vineyard high up in the Vaca Mountains, the submitter and a tasting note. If price or alcohol content abv: 14% Price: $70 east of the Silverado Trail. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. cannot be confirmed, NA (not available) will be printed. abv: 14.7% Price: $115 Prices are for 750-ml bottles unless otherwise indicated. TASTING METHODOLOGY AND GOALS All tastings reported in the Buying Guide are performed blind unless otherwise noted. Typically, products are tasted in peer-group flights of from 5–8 samples.