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Turaco Trail in Den Eastern Highlands Von Zimbabwe Führt in Fünf Tagesmärschen Quer Durch Den Nyanga National Park

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Turaco Trail in Den Eastern Highlands Von Zimbabwe Führt in Fünf Tagesmärschen Quer Durch Den Nyanga National Park ZIMBABWE Die Mutarazi Falls stürzen 760 Meter tief ins Honde Valley. Walk on the Wild Side Der Turaco Trail in den Eastern Highlands von Zimbabwe führt in fünf Tagesmärschen quer durch den Nyanga National Park. Auf dem Weg liegen Bergwälder, Grasland, Gipfel, Schluchten, Wasserfälle und Wildflüsse. Von Astrid Därr (Text und Fotos) 58 | SÜD-AFRIKA 4/16 Berge & Meer-Reisespecial ZIMBABWE Südliches -kok-kok-kok- kann man im Park viele seltene Vo- dieser einzigartige Naturraum aus kok“, tönt es gelarten beobachten. Bergen, Flüssen, Schluchten und Afrika. Kok im Crescendo Bernie Cragg, ein weißer Zimb- Wäldern für Menschen völlig un- aus dem Bergwald. Der raue Ruf des abwer, gründete 1991 die Outdoor- zugänglich“, erklärt Bernie. „Au- Turaco Glanzhauben-Turakos verfolgt uns schule „Far and Wide“ nahe der ßerdem wollte ich, dass die lokale Trail schon seit Stunden. Bisher konnten Mutarazi-Wasserfälle, etwa 90 Stra- Bevölkerung einen Nutzen aus dem wir nur die leuchtend roten Flügel- ßenkilometer nördlich von Mutare. Park zieht.“ Ein Teil der Gebühren, spitzen des scheuen Vogels erha- Seitdem bietet er Rafting-, Kletter-, die Besucher bezahlen, geht an die schen. Mitten in der Wildnis des Wander- und Kajaktouren für Schul- Gemeinschaft. Wer Träger mietet, Nyanga-Nationalparks schlagen kinder und Erwachsene an. generiert außerdem Einkommen. wir unser Zelt am Ufer des Pungwe „Ich wollte meine Liebe für die Um das Wildniserlebnis zu be- River auf. Im erfrischend kalten Berge und die Wildnis mit der Aus- wahren, verzichtete Bernie – abgese- Wasser, das über die braunen Gra- bildung von Kindern verbinden“, hen von wenigen Wegweisern – auf nitfelsen in ein kristallklares Be- sagt der ehemalige Lehrer. „Au- Infrastruktur entlang des Pfades und Die beeindruckenden cken sprudelt, waschen wir uns den ßerdem war es schon immer mein an den Zeltplätzen. Außerdem kann Schweiß ab. Traum, einen Trekkingpfad durch sich immer nur eine Gruppe gleich- Kontraste Südafrikas Mit schweren Rucksäcken auf die Region zu schaffen.“ zeitig für das Trekking anmelden, 15-tägige Rundreise inkl. Flug Ein Streckenabschnitt führt den Schultern wanderten wir heute sodass Wanderer die Landschaft in Mittelklassehotels/Lodges durch blühende Proteen. Inkl. Frühstück rund fünf Stunden elf Kilometer EIGENE KARTEN völliger Ruhe genießen. Termine: Jan - Okt 2017 durch weites Grasland, über einen Es kostete ihn jahrelange Überzeu- € ab 1.799 exponierten Bergrücken mit Aus- gungsarbeit, bis die Nationalpark- VÖLLIGE RUHE Reise-Code: RUR041 pro Person im sicht in die Pungwe Gorge und zu- behörde ihr Einverständnis für den Ruhe und Einsamkeit finden wir in Kennziffer: 103/110 Doppelzimmer letzt durch feuchten Bergwald voller Trail durch das 47.000 Hektar große den nächsten Tagen genug – immer neongrüner Moose und Epiphyten. Schutzgebiet gab. Bernie erkundete begleitet vom Ruf des Turakos und Die zauberhafte Die Annehmlichkeiten auf un- mit seinen beiden Söhnen den idea- dem Bellen der Paviane. Am zwei- Natur Namibias serem Zeltplatz beschränken sich len Wegverlauf, schlug Pfade durch ten Wandertag stehen uns sieben 14-tägige Rundreise inkl. Flug auf einen Baumstamm als Sitzbank das Dickicht und richtete Lagerplät- Stunden Marsch bevor. Wir folgen Mittelklassehotels/Lodges/Camps und eine Feuerstelle. Trinkwasser ze ein. Außerdem kartierte er das dem Pungwe River flussabwärts. Inkl. Verpflegung schöpfen wir aus dem Fluss. In gesamte Gebiet, sodass Wanderer Armdicke Lianenschlingen bilden Termine: Jan - Nov 2017 unseren Rucksäcken tragen wir heute von seinen detaillierten Karten Stolperfallen auf dem schmalen Pfad ab € Reise-Code: R2N030 1.999 Lebensmittel für fünf Tage, einen im Maßstab 1:25.000 profitieren. und wir achten darauf, keinen Rie- pro Person im Kennziffer: 103/110 Doppelzimmer Benzinkocher, Campinggeschirr, Iso- „Ich wollte eine Weltklasse- sentausendfüßer zu zertrampeln. matten, Zelt und leichte Schlafsäcke. Trekkingroute schaffen. Früher war Auf den Ästen der mächtigen Bäume Das besondere Erlebnis: SELTENE VÖGEL Botswana & Simbabwe Fünf Tage zu Fuß durch den Busch – 13-tägige Kleinguppen-Rundreise inkl. Flug in vielen Regionen Afrikas birgt das Mittelklassehotels/Lodges/Komfortcamps ankreuzen unkalkulierbare Risiken. Auf dem Inkl. Verpflegung 109 Termine: Feb - Sep 2017 62 Kilometer langen Turaco Trail € ab durch die Nationalparks Mutarazi 4.299 Info-Karte Reise-Code: O2E002 pro Person im Falls und Nyanga in den Eastern Kennziffer: 103/110 Doppelzimmer Highlands ist dieses Abenteuer ohne Angst um Leib und Leben möglich. „Hier gibt es keine Elefanten, kei- Ihr Gutschein für eine Reise von Berge & Meer ne Büffel, keine Krokodile, keine Bilharziose und keine Malaria“, sagte uns Bernie Cragg vor unserem 50€ Aufbruch enthusiastisch. Gutschein-Code*: Afrika2016 Und dennoch ist das Gebiet vol- Einlösbar bis zum 30.04.2017 unter: ler Wildtiere: In den Wäldern und im www.berge-meer.de oder Grasland leben Leoparden, Busch- Tel. 0 26 34 / 962 60 01 tägl. 8 - 22 Uhr schweine, Zibet- und Ginsterkatzen, * Nur 1 Gutschein pro Buchung direkt bei Berge & Meer einlösbar. Keine Baraus- Dachse, Stachelschweine, Kudus, Der 400 Kilometer lange zahlung möglich. Nicht einlösbar auf bestehende Buchungen und auf Kaufgut- Besonders beeindruckend sind Pungwe River durchzieht den scheine. Nicht kombinierbar mit weiteren Rabatten. Mindestreisepreis: 450 € die mächtigen Baumfarne. Wasserböcke, Affen, Mangusten, Nyanga-Nationalpark. Otter und vieles mehr. Außerdem 60 | SÜD-AFRIKA 4/16 4/16 SÜD-AFRIKA | 61 61364_Sued-Afrika-Magazin.indd 1 24.10.16 17:06 ZIMBABWE umgefallener Baum die Ursache war. ergießt sich ein Bach in mehrere „Juliet’s Camp“ in einer Waldinsel Dahinter steigt der Weg wieder klar Becken. Auf den Granitfelsen, die in erreichen, sehen wir für wenige erkennbar über 750 Höhenmeter der Abendsonne tatsächlich golden Sekunden ein Tier mit zotteligem, durch den Wald bergan. leuchten, entdecken wir die Schalen braunem Fell hinter einen Felsen Völlig durchgeschwitzt errei- von Flusskrebsen – offenbar hat verschwinden: eine Braune Hyäne. chen wir auf 1.750 Metern Höhe hier ein Kap-Otter sein Frühstück Die Nacht am Lagerplatz auf 2.100 einen Märchenwald aus urigen verspeist. Nach einem kalten Bad Metern Höhe wird angenehm kühl. Farnbäumen, bevor wir wieder und warmen Instant-Nudeln fallen über hügeliges Grasland laufen. wir müde ins Zelt, während der AUSKLANG MIT TEE Im warmen Nachmittagslicht geht Vollmond hinter dem Bergrücken An den letzten zwei Tagen fallen die es weiter durch duftende Blumen- aufgeht. Etappen mit rund vier Stunden Geh- wiesen entlang eines Steilabbruchs Am dritten Tag steht im wahrsten zeit kürzer aus. Der Weg verläuft in mit fantastischem Panorama auf die Sinne der Höhepunkt des Trekkings stetigem Auf und Ab durch Grasland Felskulisse des Mount Nyangani. auf dem Programm: der Mount mit blühenden Proteeen, durch Pi- In der Ferne beobachten wir eine Nyangani, mit 2.593 Metern der nien- und Farnbaumwälder. Unsere Herde friedlich grasender Kudus. An höchste Berg Zimbabwes. Drei Stun- tägliche Wildnis-Wellness besteht unserem Lagerplatz „Golden Pools“ den lang steigen wir vom Lagerplatz aus einem Flussbad und Aufwärmen Ungewöhnliche Felsformationen säumen den Weg über das Plateau zum steil abfallenden Hochplateau auf den besonnten Granitfelsen. des Mount Nyangani. des Nyangani auf. Oben angekom- Die letzte Stunde bis zum Trek- men, marschieren wir durch eine king-Endpunkt führt durch Ufer- bizarre Skulpturenlandschaft aus wald am Nyamkombe River, be- erodierten, von Flechten überwu- vor uns der Trail unvermittelt auf entlang des Flusses sprießen zahllose Turaco cherten Granitfelsen. dem Golfplatz der Aberfoyle Lodge Orchideen. In einigen Baumkronen Trail ausspuckt. Teeplantagen umgeben hängen einfache Bienenstöcke – die LAND DER SCHWALBEN die geschichtsträchtige, von Bernies Bewohner der Dörfer an der Park- Ein Betonpfeiler markiert den Gip- Sohn Chris Cragg betriebene Lodge, grenze produzieren hier Honig. fel und vor uns eröffnet sich ein in der wir nach fünf Tagen wieder grandioses Panorama auf das wei- eine kalte Cola und die Gesellschaft URIGE FARNE te Berg- und Grasland der Eastern anderer Menschen genießen. Als wir am Zusammenfluss von Highlands. Flinke Stahlschwalben Chris fährt uns am nächsten Tag Pungwe und Nyazengu ankommen, zischen auf Insektenfang über unsere in zwei Stunden zurück nach Mu- erwartet uns eine Überraschung: Der Köpfe hinweg – „Nyanga“ bedeutet tarazi Falls. An den Kaskaden, die Weg endet völlig unvermittelt im „Land der Schwalben“. insgesamt 760 Meter tief ins Honde dichten Gestrüpp. Etwa eine Stunde Nach der Rast führt uns der Valley fallen, genießen wir ein letztes lang suchen wir am Flussufer nach Turaco Trail weiter über das fel- Mal den Ausblick auf das weite Berg- Alternativen, aber alle Pfade verlieren sige Hochplateau. Kurz bevor wir land der Eastern Highlands. ➨ sich. Schließlich kriechen wir durch das Dornengestrüpp weglos aufwärts und stellen fest, dass ein kürzlich TOURISTIK & BUSINESS TRAVEL TESTSIEGER Im Test: Websites von Afrika-Spezialisten 21/2011 Nicht die Big Five, aber Die Strecke lässt viel Zeit Die Lagerplätze sind viele kleine Tiere. zum Baden und Relaxen. ausgeschildert. 62 | SÜD-AFRIKA 4/16 4/16 SÜD-AFRIKA | 63 Info-Karte 129 ankreuzen ZIMBABWE MARKETPLACE Villa Honeywood punkt des Trails in unmittelbarer ZAMBIA Guest House Nähe der Mutarazi Falls, umgeben MOSAMBIK von Bergwald, Tel. + 263 (0)712 NAMIBIA ZIMBABWE 613 582, www.farandwide.co.zw/ Südafrika Turaco BOTSWANA mutarazi-cottages. Drei gut ausge- Trail stattete
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