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Wildflowers of Lesotho's Tséhlanyane National Park

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Wildflowers of Lesotho's Tséhlanyane National Park Flora of Lesotho N /"JA ,,"[ /).Oxbow lr-ur\ Wi Idflowers < ..) fI""Ai SOUTH (_~_ :;' AFR1CA I Ts'ehlanyane National I Park / .. Bokong Nature of Lesotho's Res""" j Tsehlanyane LESOTHO o 15km ""==--' ational Park TOP: Early morning mists near Tsehlanyane National Park in Lesotho. Photo: Wim Wybenga. ABOVE: Map by Sally Adam, Technodraft. by Wim Wybenga Tsehlanyane is one of the few unspoilt in altitude from 2 300-3 150 m above herbs, succulents, shrubs, climbers wilderness areas of Lesotho, situated sea level. On a short visit at the begin­ and trees. According to Elsa Pooley's in the northern part of the Maluti ning of February 2006, we were quite fieldguide (2003) on mountain flowers Mountain range. The camping area amazed at the abundance and diversity of the KwaZulu-Natal Drakensberg and and lodges give a sense of being right of wildflowers Tsehlanyane had to offer. Lesotho, more than 2 200 species of in the heart of the Maluti escarpment In three days we recorded close to plants occur in the Maloti-Drakensberg with the surrounding peaks varying eighty species in flower - lilies, orchids, Transfrontier Park (MDTP) area ofwhich June 2006 Veld&Flora 81 400 are endemic. This is close to 8% of Our guide, Johannes Mofokeng, was Cheche (oldwood or ouhout) Leucosidea South Africa's plant species. exceptionally helpful and managed to sericea is an important ecological con­ Tsehlanyane is one of three reserves keep us on the right path to Letsa­ stituent of mountainous regions as it that were developed by the Lesotho le-tso, pointing out various medicinal provides shelter to various kinds of Highlands Water Commission (LHWC) plants, as well as their scientific names, ferns, herbs and the seedlings of indige­ as part oftheir contract with the Lesotho on the way. I'm sure birders would nous trees. An entomological study that government. (See text box on p. 85.) also fmd Tsehlanyane a most enriching was done in Golden Gate Highlands Duringourstayat the park, we embarked experience. National Park recorded 117 different on two hiking trails, the Matsa-Mararo kinds of beetles on one cheche tree. waterfall via the lower Letsa-le-tso path The lower Letsa-Ie-tso trail to Matsa­ Veld fires usually prevent cheche from (11 km) and the Holomo Pass 4x4 track Mararo Falls growing taller than a shrub or small (6 km). Although the major trails at The lower Letsa-le-tso trail is an almost tree, but at Tsehlanyane I was amazed Tsehlanyane are well made and well level path for 3.5 km. The name Letsa­ to find specimens up to 7 m tall. marked, they can become quite con­ le-tso means 'black pool' and it is situ­ The arrow-leaved arum Zantedeschia fusing as numerous alternative routes ated on the Liqaleng River (pronounced albomaculata grows in various habitats: have been constructed recently which 'Diqalengl which is the Basotho name the shade ofcheche forest in moist areas are not described on the laminated map for mountain bamboo Thamnocalamus or on higher exposed mountain slopes. at the park entrance. At the moment tessellatus. This is a fascinating plant It is distinguished from the white arum this is the only map available to tour­ 1-5 m tall, that is used by the Basotho lily Z. aethiopica by its spathe, which is ists. I'm quite certain that we would people as a construction material and cylindrical and white or cream to pale have got lost if we hadn't arranged for a an under-layer for thatch. I was only yellow. In Z. aethiopica, the spathe is guide to accompany us. recently made aware of the fact that large, wider, funnel-shaped and white bamboo forests occur in certain parts of only. Z. albomaculata is a high-altitude Lesotho. The trade in mountain bamboo species found up to 2 500 m, whereas is a livelihood for many Basotho and Z. aethiopica is usually found en masse explains why the forests are decreasing. in marshy areas below 2250 m. In the Free State Province it is listed Growing near the path was a plant as an endangered species in the IUCN that is endemic to the eastern moun­ Red Data Book. It seems that the loss tain region of South Africa: a tall shrub of habitat and the over-utilization of it with bright yellow daisy-like flowers, for construction material by early set­ Euryops evansii, also known as 'seh­ tlers in the 1800s are the main reasons lakoana.' It has attractive grey-green why it is now so rare in the Free State. foliage at the top of bare stems. The The mountain bamboo is the host plant disturbed areas of the path were cov­ of an endangered species of butterfly, ered in various pelargoniums and gera­ Mestisella syrinx. The bamboo's pre­ niums, notably Pelargonium ranuncu­ ferred habitat is undisturbed, moist lophyllum, the leaves of which have a mountain slopes and riverine areas. purplish fleck and, as the scientific En route to Letsa-le-tso one passes name indicates, closely resemble that of through large patches of cheche forest. cultivated Ranunculus species. We saw ABOVE: Mountain bamboo Thamnocalamus tessellatus. The trade in mountain bamboo is a livelihood for many Basotho but in the Free State Province it is listed as an endangered species in the IUCN Red Oata Book. Photo: Wim Wybenga. FAR LEFT:The arrow-leaved arum lily Zantedeschia albomaculata grows in moist areas in the shade of cheche forest or higher up on exposed, damp mountain slopes. Photo: Wim Wybenga. TOP LEFT: Cheche (oldwood or oUhout) Leucosidea sericea flowers from October till December. The Letsa-le-ts6 trail passes through large patches of cheche forest. Photo: Wim Wybenga. BOTTOM LEFT: The yellow everlasting Helichrysum cooperi growing on the way to the waterfall. Photo: Wim Wybenga. 82 June 2006 Veld&Flora large stands of Plectranthus grallatus RIGHT: Euryops evansii is endemic to the eastern directly next to the path in the shade of mountain region of South Africa. It is known cheche. The guide, Johannes Mofokeng, locally as 'sehlakoana.' Photo: Wim Wybenga. pointed out a robust herb with large ser­ RIGHT MIDDLE: Moss on wet basalt. rated leaves, known as lesoko Alepidea Photo: Wim Wybenga. amatymbica. A tea made from the leaves is used as a cough and cold remedy RIGHT BELOW: The roots of Basoetoeraap Schizoglossum afropurpureum can be eaten raw Near Letsa-Ie-tso there was an abun­ as a sweet. Photo: Wim Wybenga. dance of mountain sage Buddleja lon­ cata growing next to the path. It is BELOW: Matsa-Mararo means 'three cascade very similar to the common wild sage pools' and it is indeed a spectacular waterfall and a welcome sight and sound after a long hike. Buddleja salviijolia that grows only a Photo: Wim Wybenga. few hundred metres downstream. Take time observing the leaves: those of mountain sage are lanceolate (taper­ ing to each end but broadest at about one-third from the base), leathery and darker green above, whereas those of the common wild sage are oval at the base and lighter green above, also softer and more woolly. From Letsa-Ie-tso to Matsa-Mararo a steep climb of 2 krn followed with numerous new finds that we did not come across at the lower altitudes. These included the yellow everlasting Helichrysum coopen, the night-flower­ ing lion's spoor zaluzianskya schmitz­ iae, a prolific climber on a burnt cheche tree with pink-red paper-winged fruit (probably Rumex sagittatus), the hardy resurrection fern Cheilanthes eckloni­ ana, the pineapple lily or khapumpo Eucomis autumnalis subsp. clavata on a steep basalt ledge and the highly fra­ grant Selago melliodora with white flow­ ers. Appropriately, 'melliodora' means 'smelling of honey.' At about 2 200 m on the damp villages at the top of the escarpment basalt slopes, we came across a thorny (Solane and Motete). The lower part of sub-shrub with white daisy-like flowers the pass is also suitable for 4x4s, but Berkheya cirsiijolia, and a bit higher up even better for hiking and rambling the slopes (at about 2 300 m) in similar as the burnt branches of cheche trees habitat was a small pink Hesperantha. scratch your vehicle. This path is fairly Matsa-Mararo means 'three cascade straightforward and no guide is needed. pools' and it is indeed a spectacular We started on the 4x4 track that begins waterfall consisting of three separate at the power station - and you can only falls and pools on top of each other - a ascend the valley and keep on climbing. welcome sight and sound after a long A hiking trail proceeds from the top of hike! Holomo Pass to Bokong Nature Reserve On our return trip, we took hours to (a total distance of 39 km that takes two complete the descent as we observed to three days). numerous species that we did not see Bokong is another jewel of Lesotho, At the lower end of the pass we came on our way up. Of particular men­ acclaimed for the presence of the beard­ across two species of orchid, locally tion were the purplish-brown flow­ ed vulture, its diversity of wildflowers called 'mametsana'. The first, Satynum ers of Schizoglossum atropurpureum and its unspoilt mountain scenery. It is parvijlorum, had small yellowish-green subsp. atropurpureum, also known as situated at the head of the Mattka Lisiu flowers of 7 mm on a long stalk, with 'Basoetoeraap' as the roots are eaten Pass between Pitseng and Ha Lejone, large, oval or heart-shaped leaves at its raw as a sweet delight.
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