The Fine History of Southern Oregon Wine
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Applegater Fall 2015 23 The fine history of southern Oregon wine by MELISSA RHODES Among the beauty of southern Oregon,” also contains wine bottle Oregon are some of the top-rated wines labels, photographs, annual price lists, and in the American West. “There are a other items that have been contributed lot of good wines being produced that by participating area vineyards, wineries, Photos (top) resemble wines from the California Sierra and individuals connected to southern Dr. Will Brown, foothills,” says wine expert and historian Oregon’s wine industry, as well as wine historian. (right) Smoke- Dr. Will Brown, who was generous in images collected by MJ Daspit and Eric filled vineyard at sharing his knowledge of the southern Weisinger for their book Rogue Valley Valley View. Photo: Oregon wine industry for this story. Wine (Arcadia, 2011). Melissa Rhodes. Now an Ashland resident, Dr. These materials document Brown started to study wine in 1954 the important history of grape on soil, climate, aspect [the direction Bridgeview Vineyards and Winery. while in medical school after being growing and wine production in the vines are facing], and elevation,” he Today, larger vineyards are being introduced to fine wine by a professor. the Rogue Valley American Viticultural explains. This is the reason that so many planted. Land is cheaper in southern In 2003, Dr. Brown purchased the Bern Area (AVA), which encompasses the wineries call the Applegate Valley home Oregon than in the northern parts of the Ramey Wine Library and donated it to drainage basin of the Rogue River and and succeed in doing so. state, and there is a lot of land suitable Southern Oregon University (SOU). several tributaries, including the Illinois While there are about 70 for growing grapes. At the same time, The impressive collection of 371 books, River, the Applegate River, and Bear different wine grapes being grown more grapes are being sent to northern accumulated over four decades, contains Creek, making the collection a valuable in southern Oregon, growers are testing Oregon wineries, which want grapes that many rare first editions and is housed resource for students, researchers, local many varieties to see what grows best don’t grow well in the north. in Hannon Library at SOU. (The late vineyards, and wine makers. If you here. As a result, southern Oregon The wine industry in southern Bern Ramey was a member of the are interested in contributing wine- vineyards have grown not only an Oregon seems to be doing very well first graduating class of seven from the related items to Hannon Library Special assortment of the Bordeaux varieties that with new vineyards being planted and University of California-Davis School Collections, email [email protected]. were first planted here (e.g., cabernet new wineries being opened. “There is of Viticulture and Enology, along with More information about the collection sauvignon, merlot, and cabernet franc), a mystique about being in the wine the late Peter Mondavi and the late Joe is available online at http://hanlib.sou. but later planted Rhone Valley varieties industry that attracts money and people,” Heitz, both internationally recognized edu/speccoll/wine.html. like syrah, grenache, viognier, and says Dr. Brown. Napa Valley winemakers. Ramey is the Dr. Brown appreciates the wine tempranillo. Pinot noir, chardonnay, Melissa Rhodes author of the 1977 The Great Grapes and produced in southern Oregon. “I would and pinot gris are also grown in southern [email protected] The Wines They Make, which took over say that the Applegate Valley is the Oregon. Melissa attends SOU and plans to pursue 20 years to complete.) best all-around area in the Rogue for The first winery in Oregon was a master’s degree in English. We thank her SOU’s growing collection, producing premium wines, but good created by Peter Britt in Jacksonville in for researching and writing this article. entitled “Wine of Southern wines come from all over, depending the 1870s. Britt died in 1905 and his winery closed two years later. However, WINE BRANDING FROM page 1 — Winery News in Brief — there were several small wineries in the Asante and benefits the Children’s the Oregon Wine University will attract Roseburg area in the late 19th century. • John Michael Champagne Cellars Miracle Network. Liz coordinated the more wine professionals, wine writers, With prohibition, all wineries closed, recently moved its tasting room to the classes for both wine aficionados and as well as wine novices. According to but some vineyardists in the Roseburg winery site at 1425 Humbug Creek Road wine novices and included Oregon Liz, OWE is developing into a major area continued to sell grapes to home in Applegate and is now serving local Wine University classes by physician wine festival bringing people to southern winemakers, which was legal. organic foods to pair with their wines and wine educator Peter Adesman, Oregon. Besides the competition and Wine made its comeback in the (www.johnmichaelwinery.com). MD, comparing old-world wines with good wines, there is also a great deal of 1960s and ’70s, resulting in new wineries • Plaisance Ranch received a 91 rating southern Oregon wines. There were also money raised for a very worthy cause. spread across the valley. Richard Sommer and recognition in the Wine Enthusiast classes comparing cold and hardy grape If you didn’t attend the Oregon Wine started Hillcrest Winery in Roseburg magazine’s August 2015 for its 2012 varietals, classes by Riedel glassmaker, Experience this year and you love wine, in the early 1960s. Frank Wisnovsky at pinot noir (www.plaisanceranch.com). and a tasting class with the Ledger David mark your calendars for this fun and Valley View Winery established the first • Troon Vineyard’s new general manager Cellars wine team. informative event in August 2016. winery in the Rogue Valley—their first is Chris Cunningham. Wine maker and There were 12 classes at the Oregon Debbie Tollefson wine was made in 1976. Siskiyou Winery vineyard manager is Steve Hall (www. Wine University this year at the event site [email protected] in the Illinois Valley was opened shortly troonvineyard.com). on Bigham Knoll Campus in Jacksonville • • • • • after Valley View, and was later sold to and two classes at the Southern Oregon Contact Information Wine Institute (SOWI) in the Umpqua • The Oregon Wine Experience: www. farmers’ MARKET FROM page 3 Valley. Based on the success of this year, theoregonwineexperience.com and other useful objects. “I will make She and co-manager Sarah Shea of next year they are hoping to have two • Serra Vineyards: 222 Missouri Flat, anything to order,” he cheerily offers White Oak Farm make sure that the weeks of events and classes so OWE will Grants Pass; www.serravineyard.com interested customers. Jim was born in market maintains the high standards become more of a destination for wine • Vino-Verse Consulting: www.vino- Williams 70 years ago and still lives on that people expect. The market requires lovers near and far, and the classes at verse.com the same ranch. His wife, Barbara, of certified scales and that foods be prepared Barbwire’s Creations, exclaims, “I just in certified kitchens. Recently, the Liz Wan with Paul Gregutt, contributing editor for Wine Enthusiast magazine and love to try new things.” Her display Oregon Department of Agriculture author of Washington Wines & Wineries, the Essential Guide. includes bracelets hammered from checked the accuracy of all the scales. copper tubing and earrings of embossed Organizing can be challenging at times, metal, natural stones or horseshoe nails. but the reward lies in interacting with Liz Dolan Tree, volunteer customers face to face and sharing in the coordinator, helped spearhead the weekly fun. “I do this primarily to bring market initially in 2002. She is pleased the community together,” says Sarah. at the growing demand and dreams There is a lot of joy and pride at of finding a larger venue with more the Williams Farmers’ Market. These convenient parking. Liz has a wide range are key features of life in Williams, and of experience from buying directly from the market represents these qualities farmers for a store to setting up the exceptionally well. People’s All Organic Farmers Market in Gabriela Eaglesome Portland years ago. [email protected] Handcrafted ‘Applecrates’ for sale Beautiful planters called “Applecrates,” built with donated local wood and volunteer labor, are for sale. All proceeds will help sustain the Applegater. You can see these useful and long-lasting Applecrates at Applegate Valley Realty, 935 N. Fifth Street, Jacksonville. The price of a stock planter box (see photo), 12” wide x 22” long x 14” deep, starts at $40. For more information, or volunteer to help, call Chris Bratt at 541-846-6988..