APPROVED BY SIR JCB, TL, PEN & GB APRIL 7, 2016

PEARL Report PEARL Report PEARL 珍珠特刊By JNA 珍 珠 特 刊 Report 2016 2016

Auction results indicate positive demand J EWELLERY NEWS ASIA EWELLERY outlook for saltwater pearls 拍賣會成績引證海水珍珠需求持續

Strengthening competitiveness through product diversification Tropics bracelet with a golden Palawan South Sea pearl by Jewelmer Joaillerie Jewelmer South Sea pearl by bracelet with a golden Palawan Tropics 藉產品多元化提升競爭力

China to drive steady demand for premium-quality pearls 內地市場拉動優質珍珠需求

PEARL Report 2016 珍珠特刊

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Contents 目錄

12 TPAHK revs up Tahitian pearl marketing drive 44 內地珍珠商變法突圍

13 Japanese pearl traders count on Asian market 46 日本珍珠商冀擴闊亞洲市場 for growth

14 Belpearl Auction rakes in $15m in sales 48 緬甸珍珠拍賣會成交額逾1,330萬美元

16 Rio Pearl’s auction ends on positive note 50 電商盛行助推珍珠市場 18 China to drive steady demand for premium- 52 大溪地珍珠市場前景樂觀 quality pearls

20 Eiko Pearl eyes new markets to sustain growth 54 深圳珍珠行業協會選新會長

22 Jewelmer capturing global market opportunities 56 MIKIMOTO：品牌歷史見證珍珠品質 24 Product diversification key to winning new 58 業者看好南洋珍珠市場升勢 markets

25 Pearl expert steps up drive to capture US, 60 魅力飾：專注產品開發 Latin American markets 62 龍之珍珠：建立品牌核心競爭力 26 Mikimoto strengthens presence in Greater China 珍珠商拓內地市場尋找出路 28 Japanese dealer maintains optimistic outlook 64 in 2016 66 追求產品獨特性 30 ‘Secret Life of Pearls’ 68 珍珠領軍企業聚焦教育推廣 32 Pearls’ true beauty 34 Dreaming of pearls 70 珍珠文化珠寶的商業機遇

36 Angeperle continues to grow despite economic 71 與海洋近距離接觸 slowdown APPROVED BY SIR JCB, TL, PEN & GB APRIL 7, 2016 37 Chinese buyers to sustain growth in HK pearl On the Cover: sector A model showcases a Tropics bracelet with a golden Palawan South Sea pearl 38 Hong Kong supplier sees strong demand for by Jewelmer Joaillerie. To know more exceptional freshwater pearls about the luxury pearl jeweller’s latest collections, business strategies and market 39 Wing Wo Hing serves up modern styles in silver initiatives, turn to page 22 or log on to jewelmer.com 40 Captivating pearls 封面圖片： 模特兒佩戴由Jewelmer Joaillerie出品的 菲律賓南洋珍珠Tropics手鐲。欲了解該 珍珠品牌的最新產品系列、發展策略及市 * All figures in this publication are in US dollars 場推廣計劃，請翻閱內文第22頁或登入網 unless otherwise stated. 頁jewelmer.com

︱Pearl Report 7 Advertisers Index 廣告客戶索引

Alain Boite SAS Back Cover 封底

Angeperle (International) Co Ltd 天使之淚(國際)有限公司 Inside Back Cover 封底內頁

Arcadia Jewellery Limited 薈寶珠飾有限公司 65

Belpearl (Hong Kong) Limited 4

Colpo & Zilio Spa 9

Dragon’s Pearl Co Ltd 龍之珍珠有限公司 3

Eastern Pearl Company Limited 東藝珍珠有限公司 11

Fook Yue Pearl Co Ltd 福裕珍珠有限公司 33

Hong Kong Heng Mei Group Limited 香港恆美集團有限公司 21

J Ocean Pearl Jewellery Limited 偉利珍珠有限公司 55

Japan Pearl Exporters’ Association 49

Jungle Jewellery Ltd (Pearl) 創高珠寶有限公司 (珍珠) 67

Jewelmer International Corporation Front Cover 封面, 5

Kingliving International Jewelry Trade Centre 金麗國際珠寶交易中心 27

Living Stone Pearl Company 利維斯通珍珠公司 19

London Pearl (Hong Kong) Ltd 15

Luen Hing Pearls & Jewellery Limited 聯興珍珠首飾有限公司 51

Man Sang Jewellery (Hong Kong) Limited 民生珠寶 (香港) 有限公司 17

Rio Pearl 麗雅珠行 47

Shengda Nanyang Pearl Co Ltd 深圳盛大南洋珍珠有限公司 59

Shenzhen Matis Jewelry Co Ltd 深圳市魅力飾珠寶首飾有限公司 Inside Front Cover 封面內頁

Tahitian Pearl Association Hong Kong 香港大溪地黑珍珠協會 61

Wing Wo Hing Jewelry Group Limited 永和興珠寶集團有限公司 29

深圳市壹海珠文化創意有限公司 63

8 ︱Pearl Report

Editorial Index 文稿索引

Alain Boite S.A.S 18 日本珍珠出口商協會 46 Autore 40, 42, 72 周生生 72 Belpearl (HK) Ltd 14, 48 佳麗珍珠 45 Buccellati 71 恆美珍珠有限公司 50 Chanel 71 香港大溪地黑珍珠協會 52 Dawn Jewellery (HK) Ltd 73 香港珍珠商會 50 Eiko Pearl Co 20 浙江天使之淚珍珠股份有限公司 44 Gellner 74 浙江天地潤珍珠有限公司 45 Giovanni Ferraris 73 梵克雅寶 74 Heng Mei Pearl Co Ltd 37, 50 深圳市珍珠行業協會 54 Hong Kong Jewelry Manufacturers’ Association 12 深圳市龍之珍珠有限公司 62, 72 Hong Kong Pearl Association 37, 50 深圳市魅力飾珠寶首飾有限公司 60 J Ocean Pearl Jewellery Ltd 24 創高珠寶有限公司 (珍珠) 64 Japan Pearl Exporters’ Association 13, 46 壹海珠 70 Jewelmer Joaillerie Cover, 22, 23, 40 聯興珍珠首飾有限公司 66 K. Otsuki Pearl 28 麗雅珠行 58 Living Stone Pearl Co 38 London Pearl (Hong Kong) Ltd 25 Mikimoto 26, 56, 71 Moksh Jewellery 40 Mousson Atelier 41, 73 Myanmar Pearl Enterprise 14 Paspaley Pearling Company 30, 31, 68, 71 PIN (Hong Kong) Ltd 73 Porchet 41 PT Bima Sakti Mutiara + PT TM 14 Rio Pearl 16, 58 Schoeffel 42, 43, 73 Tahitian Pearl Association Hong Kong 12, 52 Tamara Comolli 42, 74 Utopia 41 Wing Wo Hing Jewelry Group Ltd 39 Yoko London 32, 41, 43, 74 Yvel 34, 35, 74 Zhejiang Angeperle Co Ltd 36, 44

10 ︱Pearl Report

MARKET UPDATE

TPAHK revs up Tahitian pearl marketing drive

reater China will continue “The outlook for Tahitian to power the growth in pearls is quite positive judging Gdemand for cultured from the record-breaking results Tahitian pearls, which are prized at a number of auctions,” she for their exotic beauty and rarity, said. “Buyers have an optimistic the Tahitian Pearl Association view of future growth prospects.” Hong Kong (TPAHK) said recently. Marketing initiatives In spite of global TPAHK is organising a macroeconomic challenges, number of marketing events this which have put a damper on year to further raise the profile of luxury spending, Tahitian and Tahitian pearls in Greater China.

South Sea pearls continue to TPAHK President Johnny Cheng, left, “TPAHK serves as the appeal to consumers because with Teva Rohfritsch, the minister in official sponsor of the 2016 they are luxurious and remain charge of the Tahitian pearl sector JMA International Jewellery accessible at the same time, Design Competition,” Wong TPAHK General Manager Ida online shopping habit among the said, in reference to the Hong Wong said. younger generation. Kong Jewelry Manufacturers’ “Today’s more fashion- “Younger consumers prefer Association’s widely popular forward consumers find Tahitian simple jewellery pieces that are design contest. “As part of our pearl jewellery very attractive fashionable and suitable for sponsorship, we will give the and distinctive because the daily wear,” said Wong. “The winners in the Open Group gems come in a wide range more sophisticated consumer category the opportunity to take of shapes, sizes and colours,” often goes for personalised and part in a study tour to Tahiti and Wong said, adding that pearls unique designs that reflect or are meet with Tahitian pearl experts.” in unusual and odd shapes are an extension of her personality. Last year, TPAHK drove valued by jewellery designers These pieces usually have strategic marketing initiatives to because of their wonderful irregularly shaped or baroque drive awareness and interest in organic appeal. pearls as centre gems.” Tahiti’s prized gems. Some of “Tahitian pearls, with their In terms of product the association’s key projects beautiful array of colours, are preferences, top-quality, round included a market study tour, versatile since they can be set Tahitian pearls measuring 10mm which was aimed at fostering with diamonds and virtually all and above in diameter and with a deeper understanding of types of coloured gemstones,” dark, strong colours are favoured French Polynesia’s cultured she continued. by buyers from mainland China, pearl industry, familiarising she said. The Japanese, dealers with Tahiti’s pearl Consumer preferences European and US auction process and creating Stylish Tahitian pearl markets are partial opportunities for dialogue jewellery has gained to 8mm-9mm between industry stakeholders popularity in recent years, Tahitian pearls in and the government. TPAHK largely due to the growing different shapes also served as a 2015 Miss including round, Jewelry Hong Kong sponsor Top: Tahitian pearl strand from circled, semi- and stepped up its engagement Gyso Pearls & Jewellery Ltd. baroque and with the jewellery design Left: Tahitian pearl ring by Rio Pearl baroque, Wong added. community. JNA

12 ︱Pearl Report MARKET UPDATE

Japanese pearl traders count on Asian market for growth

By Bernardette Sto. Domingo and Tahitian loose pearls as opposed to necklaces. While emand for pearls is likely majority of consumers opted to remain solid in 2016, to spend on commercial-grade Dwith buyers from Asia products, high-end pearl items driving the growth, according still moved during the show, to Yoshihiro Shimizu, president according to Shimizu. of the Japan Pearl Exporters’ Association (JPEA). Pricing Good-quality commercial The price of Japanese Akoya products are seen to fuel strong pearls has risen by about 20 to activity in the pearl sector as 25 percent while that of South price-conscious buyers grapple Yoshihiro Shimizu, president of the Sea pearls remained unchanged. with the effects of a sluggish Japan Pearl Exporters’ Association “Even if Akoya prices are on global economy, he added. the rise, people generally feel “There’s still a bit of uncertainty by 20 percent while some South confident because this means in the market and consumers Sea pearl dealers recorded the that their old inventories still have have become more price- same improvement, according to value,” the JPEA executive noted. conscious. China has generally Shimizu. “There is still keen interest For Tahitian pearls, a 25 been declining,” Shimizu noted. in Japanese Akoya and South percent decrease in sales volume “This is the trend: Expensive items Sea pearls but demand for more was recorded in comparison to cannot be sold easily. We expect expensive South Sea pearl items 2014 while production dropped consumers to turn their attention has softened,” he continued. from 14.5 tonnes to 11.8 tonnes to commercial-range products At the March Hong Kong Fair, in 2015. Exports from Tahiti also that are of decent quality.” Shimizu cited steady business at declined accordingly, recording the Japan Pearl Pavilion, which $55 million in 2015 from $68 Quality hosted 102 pearl dealers, fuelled million in 2014. Pearl dealers expect mainly by Asian buyers. Companies The average price per consumers to look for round or recorded a stable, albeit “smaller,” momme was fixed at about near-round, and clean pearl items business activity owing to a lower $31.39 in 2014 and 2015. at reasonable prices, revealed average price sought by buyers. “Since there was a decline in the JPEA official. Japanese pearl companies the production of Tahitian pearls, “Commercial-grade pearls with also found new clients from Asia automatically we see fewer top- fine quality will be the most sought- and the US. quality products in the market. after products this year. It’s not Shimizu also cited rising Prices of less-demanded items going to be easy. Traders should interest from Indonesian buyers like spotty or off-shape pearls be able to provide exactly what during the show. “It’s good to have softened while those of the market wants amid economic always have alternative markets cleaner, nice-quality pearls stayed uncertainties,” stated Shimizu. but it’s not that easy. Indonesia the same,” remarked Shimizu. Japanese Akoya and South Sea and India are potential markets The pearl specialist also said pearls will continue to drive demand but their buying power is not yet casual and simpler pearl jewellery in the pearl sector, he added. as strong as China’s,” he added. designs that are suited to the In 2015, sales volume of Buyers were partial to younger generation of buyers will Japanese Akoya pearls increased Japanese Akoya, South Sea enjoy solid demand in 2016. JNA

︱Pearl Report 13 MARKET UPDATE

Belpearl Auction rakes in $15m in sales

he 4th International Highlights of the 4th International Loose pearls Myanmar Pearl Auction, Myanmar Pearl Auction T held alongside the TOTAL ON OFFER Large-sized Belpearl Auction in Hong Kong pearls with Lots: 609 in February, generated $14.91 intense gold million in total sales, according to Weight: 146,290 momme colours fetched the auction organiser. SOLD the highest premiums, according The sale featured 609 lots Lots: 505 to Hajjar. Smaller, blemish-free of Burmese golden South Sea Weight: 139,721 momme golden South Sea pearls of 9mm pearls, and pearls from the to 10mm in diameter attained Total sales value: $14,919,386 Philippines, Indonesia and Tahiti, new highs in excess of $500 per with a combined weight of Average price per momme: $106 momme, he added. 146,290 momme. “Going forward, we expect A total of 505 lots were of a new Tahitian pearl producer, the market to place greater sold with a combined weight of which was focused on producing emphasis on higher-grade 139,721 momme, according to exceptionally large-sized pearls of pearls – black, white and gold. Michael Hajjar, director of auction high quality,” noted Hajjar. Demand from Asia continues organiser Belpearl (HK) Ltd. Belpearl partnered with to be the primary support for The average price per Myanmar Pearl Enterprise in current supply levels,” added momme was pegged at $106 hosting the auction. Hajjar. for the two auctions but the The pearl expert cited a The next Myanmar Pearl average price per momme for record buyer attendance at this Auction is slated in November the Myanmar Pearl Auction alone year’s auction, with majority of 2016 and will feature products reached approximately $155. them coming from Japan, Hong from two of Myanmar’s top “This year’s auction recorded Kong, Europe and the US. pearl producers. The next a significant increase in the Out of approximately 100 Belpearl Auction, scheduled quantity of top-grade pearls from companies that attended the for June 21 and 22, will Myanmar. The Belpearl Auction, sale, nearly 85 were successful highlight the harvest of one of for its part, also saw the addition buyers. Indonesia’s premier South Sea pearl producers, PT Bima Sakti Mutiara + PT TM. According to Hajjar, Belpearl will continue to provide high- quality products and services in 2016. “We are focusing on stricter sorting and grading of our lots, and on sustainable, small- to medium-scale South Sea pearl farms that are dedicated to producing finer-quality pearls,” he continued. The company is also planning to re-engage Western markets to boost growth this year, said A buyer inspects goods at the 4th International Myanmar Pearl Auction Hajjar. JNA

14 ︱Pearl Report

MARKET UPDATE

Rio Pearl’s auction ends on positive note

olden South Sea pearls were the stars of the Rio GPearl auction that was held in Hong Kong in January. According to the Hong Kong- based pearl specialist, golden South Sea pearls have been moving well in the Asian market in recent years due to strong demand from mainland China. Demand remains robust, with pearls measuring 8mm to 10mm in diameter being particularly sought after, said Johnny Cheng, managing director of Rio Pearl. This was reflected in the results of the company’s January auction, which offered 243,947 From left: Golden South Sea and Tahitian pearls offered for auction by Rio Pearl pearls, specifically 117,290 golden South Sea pearls, since Japanese consumers have result, Japanese wholesalers will 114,412 Tahitian pearls and a penchant for more delicate continue to be the major buyers in 12,245 white South Sea pearls. jewellery pieces. Consumers from our future auctions,” Cheng said. With nearly all of the pearls sold, mainland China also prefer to buy Encouraged by the results the auction recorded more than from Japanese sellers, whose of its January auction, Rio Pearl $5 million in sales. booths at trade fairs are often is planning to host another “Golden South Sea pearls packed with Chinese buyers. auction in the second half of measuring 8mm to 10mm in Chinese visitors to Japan, a the year. “The golden South diameter are mostly sold to number that increases every year, Sea pearls sold at our January Japanese traders these days also like to buy pearl jewellery auction mostly measure 11mm during their stay in the country. and above in diameter. We will All these factors have helped fuel try to culture more pearls of the growth of Japan’s pearl retail smaller sizes to cater to the rising market,” Cheng said. demand for smaller pieces.” Seventy percent of the buyers Rio Pearl started farming that took part in Rio Pearl’s South Sea pearls in Myanmar January auction came from a decade ago, and the venture Japan, with the rest hailing from started paying dividends in recent Hong Kong and mainland China. years. “We spent six to seven “We only invited professional years on the preliminary work buyers to participate in our alone and had the first harvest of auction. There are more than a our pearls five years ago. As we hundred companies from Japan grew in experience, the pearls specialising in the wholesaling of we harvested last year improved Pearl lots offered in Rio Pearl’s South Sea pearls, but only less considerably in both lustre and Hong Kong auction than 10 from Hong Kong. As a colour,” Cheng said. JNA

16 ︱Pearl Report

COMPANIES

China to drive steady demand for premium-quality pearls

hinese buyers are likely and counts the US, Canada, to fuel strong demand Europe and Asia among its major Cfor high-quality pearls markets. Boite has been in the throughout the year despite a pearl trade for more than three relatively slow-moving business decades. environment, according to French “At the moment, we are not pearl specialist Alain Boite. looking at new markets but are Boite, who established his setting our sights on China, eponymous pearl company in which offers a lot of opportunities 1984, cited encouraging results for pearl traders,” stated Boite. of the Hong Kong International “We want to further improve and Diamond, Gem & Pearl Show last strengthen our business there.” March as an indication of steady The pearl expert expects activity in the pearl sector in 2016. large-sized, high-quality golden Alain Boite “We had quite a strong start South Sea and Tahitian pearls to during the trade show. We closed make inroads in 2016. Perennial years. Majority of them are important deals and met new favourites such as clean white now looking for products of clients from China. I think this will pearls are likewise seen to drive the highest quality, with price continue for the rest of the year; I industry growth, he continued. and size becoming secondary remain optimistic about business considerations, he added. prospects in the pearl industry,” Sophisticated market “They have become partial to Boite noted, adding that the Boite revealed that he has fine goods. Before, they would Chinese market is seen to sustain been entertaining high-quality only source commercial products the industry’s growth momentum. buyers during international but now they know how to look Based in France, Alain Boite trade shows, which denotes for nice-quality pearls. They S.A.S. specialises in top-grade a significant development in have become more educated; South Sea and Tahitian pearls, consumer education over the they compare the quality, not only the price. We welcome this development,” continued Boite. In terms of jewellery designs, he noted that more big-ticket manufacturers and jewellery designers are using pearls in their designs, which fuels demand and also elevates the status of pearls among jewellery buyers. According to the company executive, he can offer designers an expansive range of pearl selections that includes mixed- colour, large-sized pearl strands consisting of white and golden South Sea pearls, Tahitian pearls From left: 13mm to 16mm multi-colour freshwater and South Sea pearl strand; and a limited collection of pink pink freshwater pearl necklace from Alain Boite freshwater pearls. JNA

18 ︱Pearl Report

COMPANIES

Eiko Pearl eyes new markets to sustain growth

arket and product diversification are the Mkeys to sustaining growth amid a tough economic environment, according to Eiko Pearl Co Ltd of Japan. The company is placing emphasis on its finished pearl jewellery line to attract more clients, noted Katsumasa Kobayashi, managing director of Eiko Pearl. The pearl trader is likewise eyeing new Southeast Asian markets to further strengthen its business. Founded in 1963, Eiko Pearl jewellery pieces by Eiko Pearl Co Ltd Pearl specialises in white and golden South Sea, Tahitian and company official noted. As a result, particularly in Hong Kong – an Japanese Akoya pearls as well as market interest shifted to slightly indication that opportunities finished pearl jewellery collections. more affordable products such abound in areas other than China. as Japanese Akoya and white “These countries are not our China market South Sea pearls. Pearl jewellery in major markets but their emergence An anti-corruption policy in simple yet contemporary designs in the pearl sector is noteworthy. China heavily affected the flow of has also been making waves in Overall sales from these countries high-quality items to the mainland the industry. are sometimes higher than those since the start of 2015, remarked This year, however, may turn from China,” he added. Kobayashi. Prices of golden South out to be more challenging than the Eiko Pearl also started exhibiting Sea pearls also skyrocketed over past year, continued Kobayashi. in other countries to further boost the past year and some buyers “It may be tougher to sustain its overseas presence. In 2015, the were left with huge inventories, the growth this year. Market prices company participated in a jewellery are declining but Japanese Akoya show in Taiwan, which is an prices have remained the same interesting market for the company, as last year. If this continues, we Kobayashi noted. foresee demand to shift back to Continued brand promotion South Sea pearls,” he stated. is also crucial in times of market difficulties. Diversification The company official said Eiko Kobayashi cited the Pearl will continue to enhance its importance of building new finished pearl jewellery designs, sources of growth in times of citing positive customer feedback. crisis as well as keeping product Eiko Pearl sources its pearls portfolios fresh and interesting. from the Philippines, Indonesia He noted that more Southeast and Australia for processing at its Asian buyers from Vietnam, factory in Japan. Majority of its Fine-quality golden South Sea, Tahitian Indonesia and Cambodia are customers are from Asia, the US and Japanese Akoya pearls visiting international exhibitions, and Europe. JNA

20 ︱Pearl Report

COMPANIES

Jewelmer capturing global market opportunities

By Marie Feliciano

olden South Sea pearl specialist Jewelmer Joaillerie continues Gto capture the hearts of luxury consumers worldwide with distinctive collections that give a fresh interpretation to classic styles. The luxury pearl jewellery brand is steadily making significant inroads in Latin America’s vibrant markets and further gaining a foothold in Japan – the most discerning and perhaps, most demanding, of all pearl markets worldwide. This year, Jewelmer will be launching more nature- and heritage-inspired collections that give a modern feel to the ultimate timeless classic – the South Sea pearl, said Jacques Christophe Branellec, deputy CEO of Jewelmer International Corporation. “In terms of market reach, we are continuing our development in Latin America and expanding into Japan,” Branellec said. “Japan has been a very successful market for us so far. We have been placed alongside the world’s top jewellery brands, which is a real honour for us since Japan is the veritable mecca for cultured pearls. If we are able to cater to the most discerning market in the world, this opens up opportunities, not only for the brand, but for the Philippine South Sea pearl.”

A ring with a golden South Sea pearl centre gem set with diamonds in 18-karat gold by Jewelmer Joaillerie. This ring is part of Jewelmer Joaillerie’s Bollicine Collection

Aerial view of the island in Palawan, Philippines that is home to one of Jewelmer’s pearl farms. Photo credit: ©Romain Rivierre

22 ︱Pearl Report COMPANIES

“We are very blessed because the founders of the company are still very present in the business and they have laid down very strong foundations from which we can build on. Looking into the future, it is not about making drastic changes to what they have started but finding new ways to make things better.” Branellec said industry stakeholders share the view that a sustained global marketing campaign is essential to further drive consumer demand for pearl jewellery. “We’ve realised that we have so much more to do in terms of marketing the pearl that we will be able to accomplish more by working together. To us, Jacques Christophe Branellec, deputy CEO of Jewelmer International Corporation, and Gaelle Branellec, creative director of it’s not about fighting for a piece of a small pie but of Jewelmer Joaillerie making that pie bigger for everyone,” he said. Asked to share his insights about the supply and Jewelmer Joaillerie has an organic approach to demand growth outlook for South Sea pearls, Branellec growth, he continued, noting that company founders said, “What I can tell you is that pearls are getting rarer; French pearl-culturist Jacques Branellec – Jacques supply is going to be tighter because of the many Christophe’s father – and Filipino businessman Manuel changes in the environment. El Niño (fluctuations in Cojuangco have built a solid business foundation, temperature between the ocean and atmosphere in established the right culture and nurtured a team of the east-central Equatorial Pacific) is not really helping. committed and talented individuals who will drive the Last year, we had a lot of pearl oyster mortalities. Global business forward. The company has set “a very clear warming and climate change are a big threat to our market structure for its wholesale business and a industry,” he said. “As I have mentioned before, the much targeted approach for the brand” with regards to pearl is the indicator of the health of the environment. If the retailers the company is in partnership with. that environment deteriorates, we might not have pearls “We wouldn’t be here without the support of our anymore, and along with the pearl, many other things team, our industry partners and our sightholders,” the might disappear.” younger Branellec said. According to Branellec, Jewelmer’s dream is to Jewelmer’s pioneering ways have helped advance take the golden South Sea pearl, the national gem of and promote the cultured pearl industry. The company’s the Philippines, to other parts of the world and share innovative efforts gave birth to the golden Philippine South its symbolic message of environmental conservation Sea pearl. One of its most ground-breaking initiatives is and stewardship. the pearl oyster hatchery system that it developed at the Jewelmer was founded in 1979 in Palawan, Southern farm. Applying sophisticated biotechnology to decades of Philippines – one of the few places in the world capable research and experimentation, the company established of sustaining the Pinctada maxima oyster. Using a a facility capable of hatching and growing gold-lipped process that takes about five years and at least 377 Pinctada maxima oysters that produce rare natural individual steps to produce a single pearl, the company coloured golden South Sea pearls. Through a complex said sustainable practices have always been at the heart oyster selection process, Jewelmer is able to produce of its business. The golden South Sea pearl is a symbol a steady supply of golden pearls to meet growing of the partnership between the pearl farmer and nature, consumer demand worldwide. which is embodied in the brand’s emblematic cobalt blue To date, Jewelmer counts high-end jewellery retailers and gold square logo. JNA in the US, China, Japan, France, Dubai, South America, Singapore, Cambodia and Australia among its partners. A pendant adorned with one golden South “Again, we have been able to accomplish this Sea pearl set with diamonds in 18-karat because of our hardworking team and the relationships gold on a black we have been able to maintain throughout the years,” he leather strap from Jewelmer said, adding that his father and Cojuangco have turned Joaillerie’s the golden Philippine South Sea pearl dream into a reality. Watch Me “And now, it’s our turn to continue with this story Collection. – with the same warmth and Filipino spirit that really The straps are characterise the brand and the people we work with,” also available in said Branellec. brown and white

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Product diversification key to winning new markets

hile the demand for prices hovering at $250 each. South Sea pearls is Mainland China’s demand for W growing steadily in these has increased significantly mainland China, Hong Kong- in the last couple of years,” said based J Ocean Pearl Jewellery Leung, who has more than 20 Ltd is looking to further diversify years of industry experience its products to cater to different under his belt. markets, according to company Compared to other director Jackie Leung. gemstones, pearls fared quite “Freshwater pearls used to well last year due to stable prices, dominate mainland China’s pearl according to Leung. “Last year “We also make it a point to market, but thanks to Western was challenging due to a number not focus on a particular product trends and designs in recent of macroeconomic factors, but we just because it is fashionable years, South Sea pearls have managed to enlarge our customer since trends come and go. been embraced by Chinese base and did not suffer profit For instance, golden pearls buyers as something trendy and losses. The price of top-quality were very much sought after fashionable,” said Leung who set pearls didn’t fluctuate wildly like in mainland China as a symbol up his own company in 2013. some other gemstones, which of prosperity not too long ago, Trading in Tahitian pearls as was reassuring to buyers. We but the enthusiasm for this type well as white and golden South expect their price to continue of goods has cooled down Sea pearls, the company sells rising steadily this year,” he said. recently,” he added. most of its goods to the US, Leung cites trade fair Leung also highlighted Europe, mainland China, Taiwan participation as an important the positive attributes of pearl and Southeast Asia. vehicle to connect with new jewellery in challenging economic “White South Sea pearls customers. The company took part times. “Pearl jewellery is good measuring 10mm to12mm in in five fairs last year – four in Hong value for money and thus diameter move the fastest, with Kong and one in Taiwan. “I’ve built evergreen. A piece of ornament up connections with many buyers set with a pearl measuring over the years but at fairs, we can 13mm in diameter can look meet clients from less-explored very impressive; with the same markets such as Cambodia and budget, you may only get a very Indonesia,” he said. small coloured gemstone to Offering an extensive array of adorn your piece.” JNA products is also pivotal to gaining new customers, Leung said. “We will continue to widen the range of our products in terms of price points. American and European buyers may look for larger Tahitian pearl necklace, top quantities of pearls at a lower photo, and white South Sea price point while their Southeast pearl necklace by J Ocean Asian counterparts may prefer Pearl Jewellery Ltd fine products in smaller volumes. Jackie Leung, director of Hong Kong- By diversifying our offering, we based J Ocean Pearl Jewellery Ltd also reduce business risk.”

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Pearl expert steps up drive to capture US, Latin American markets

arry Kalati is raring to win over customers in the HUS, South America and the Caribbean with his extensive stock of fine pearls. Kalati, CEO of London Pearl (Hong Kong) Ltd, said he is all set to kickstart his subsidiary’s operations in New York in June. “We are currently negotiating for office space on 47th Street,” he said. With their quiet beauty and charm, pearls are among the most coveted gems in the world, and their popularity will only grow further as jewellery ateliers launch stylish designs that give Harry and Lily Kalati pearls a contemporary edge. At the moment, Kalati said he feels price of gold increases, the pearl design houses, retailers and “rather positive about the pearl business improves,” he continued. boutiques. market in the Western world” At the Hong Kong “We can fulfill their pearl compared with mainland China’s. International Diamond, Gem requirements,” he said. “Most “Production is down, prices & Pearl Show in March, Kalati clients want a one-stop shop for are up, and traditionally, as the presented his extensive all their pearl needs, be it white collection of pearls, from South Sea pearls from Australia, commercial-grade goods to rare, black pearls from Tahiti and larger-sized gems displaying high golden South Sea pearls from the lustre and rich colours. Philippines. They like to shop in His impressive display one place.” included special strands, layouts Kalati added that his and matching suites of Akoya, company offers “the best of South Sea and Tahitian pearls; Akoya, South Sea and Tahitian conch pearls; and extraordinary pearls under one roof.” single lustrous gems measuring “This is our strength – the 19mm to 20mm in diameter. ability to offer a multiple variety “I personally selected every of pearls and colours under one single pearl that we have in roof,” he continued. our collection,” Kalati said in an In addition to the finest-quality earlier interview. “I travel all over pearls, the company is also the world searching for the best offering goods priced from around Lily Kalati wears one of London Pearl pearls.” $1,000. “Regardless of the price – (Hong Kong) Ltd’s fine pearl necklaces Kalati said his company be it $30 or $50,000 – the quality with diamond and coloured gemstone serves as a one-stop shop for of our pearls is special,” Kalati rondelles fine jewellery manufacturers, said. “That’s ‘Kalati Quality.’” JNA

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Mikimoto strengthens presence in Greater China

earl jewellery has been An 18-karat white gold necklace steadily gaining popularity in with 10.5mm to 15mm golden mainland China, especially South Sea pearls and 31.57 carats P of diamonds. This fine jewellery since Chinese first lady Peng piece sells for $445,000 Liyuan has been spotted wearing pearl ornaments on several occasions. In January, Mikimoto opened its latest boutique in Tsim Sha Tsui, a major commercial hub in Hong Kong, as the premier high-end pearl jewellery brand Found continues to fortify its presence in deep in the Greater China. Caribbean The boutique, located at Sea, the conch 1881 Heritage and measuring pearl cannot be 196sqm, is Mikimoto’s seventh cultured, and store in Hong Kong. One of the remains one of four oldest surviving government the rarest pearls in the world. buildings in the city, 1881 A model displaying Mikimoto’s fine Not composed of nacre as in Heritage used to be a marine pearl jewellery the case of oyster pearls, it has police headquarters compound. a ceramic glaze-like sheen and a A declared monument since design is inspired by the house’s flame-like surface pattern. While 1994, it was redeveloped legendary Wheel of Arrows sash it exists in a wide array of colours in recent years as a tourist clip. Lavishly adorned with Akoya including pink, white, yellow, attraction where many luxury pearls, diamonds, sapphires and brown and gold, those in orange- brands have set up shop. emeralds, the 18-karat gold clip pink and purple-pink colours are The ceiling of the new could be used in 12 different the most sought after. Mikimoto store features a finely configurations. Exhibited at the On view in the boutique is an decorated central element, the Paris Exposition in 1937 to much 18-karat white gold necklace with pattern of which is also projected acclaim for its ingenuity, the conch pearls and diamonds, with onto the shop’s marble floor. The historic piece is now housed in a its price yet to be determined. museum on Mikimoto Pearl Island. Necklaces and earrings featuring The design of the VIP room, South Sea and Akoya pearls are meanwhile, is based on wave also on display. patterns of Japan’s traditional Founded by Kokichi Mikimoto, Nishijin-ori textile. The less who became the first in the world intense light in the room, and the to culture a semi-spherical pearl undulating patterns on its walls, in 1893, Mikimoto is Japan’s first are meant to create an ocean-at- pearl specialty boutique. It was night atmosphere for customers opened in Tokyo’s Ginza shopping who want to view jewellery items district in 1899. In 1913, the first privately. overseas Mikimoto store was Fine jewellery pieces featuring unveiled in London. The company The interior space of Mikimoto’s store at pearls, including conch pearls, currently has a presence in 11 1881 Heritage are shown throughout the store. countries and regions. JNA

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COMPANIES

From left: South Sea pearls from K. Otsuki Pearl Co Ltd; pearl sorting at K. Otsuki Pearl Co Ltd

Japanese dealer maintains optimistic outlook in 2016

apanese pearl trader K. impact on Japan’s pearl sector, challenge of providing top-quality Otsuki Pearl is counting on Yoshikawa noted. He also cited a goods to maintain customers’ JChina’s continued interest tremendous increase in the buying trust and confidence. in premium-quality pearls to power of Chinese consumers, “New farms for Akoya pearls support growth in the Japanese particularly the middle-class are not being built so there’s pearl industry. segment, in the last two years. currently a limit in production. Tadao Yoshikawa, director The company official said The challenge for us is how of K. Otsuki Pearl, said the Chinese buyers are on the to guarantee that pearls of the company maintains an optimistic lookout for high-quality Japanese highest quality, which are more outlook throughout the year Akoya, golden South Sea and valuable, continue to be available despite economic uncertainties Tahitian pearls. in the market,” the company in major markets such as the US, American and European clients, official noted. Europe and even China. meanwhile, favour Japanese Akoya K. Otsuki Pearl will continue “We are anticipating stable and white South Sea pearls. to invest in research and growth – though not very “The Chinese market has development to ensure the significant – mainly driven by become more mature and production of high-quality pearls, China. There will be steady educated, which is a welcome he added. movement in the US and Europe development. Consumers and Founded in 1930 by Kikuo but it will take time before professional traders are more Otsuki in Ehime Prefecture in these markets start to pick up,” knowledgeable. They make more 1930, the company started out Yoshikawa added. “Right now, informed buying decisions,” as a pearl farm, and eventually our focus is on China.” added Yoshikawa. started engaging in the wholesale According to the company “We have also observed that and export of pearls in 1935. executive, the Chinese Chinese buyers are more willing K. Otsuki Pearl owns more market currently accounts to invest in high-quality Japanese than 10 pearl cultivation farms in for a significant share of the Akoya pearls,” he continued. Japan and Indonesia. company’s overseas business, K. Otsuki Pearl plans to In addition to China, the inching closer to the US and expand its customer base of company’s major export markets European markets since 2013. pearl wholesalers, manufacturers include Germany, France, Italy, and major chain stores. Spain, Switzerland, UK, Austria, Growing market According to Yoshikawa, Belgium, the US, Canada, Australia, The growth of China’s pearl pearl suppliers face production Hong Kong, Korea, Taiwan, market has had a significant constraints as well as the Singapore and Thailand. JNA

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COMPANIES

‘Secret Life of Pearls’ Paspaley has worked with National Geographic Channel to create a documentary that provides a rare insight into the fascinating world of the Australian pearling industry

he Secret Life of Pearls, an hour-long documentary created by Paspaley, is premiering globally on the National Geographic Channel T throughout 2016. Michael Bracher, executive director of Paspaley Pearling Company, explains why the story of the Australian South Sea pearl – one of the world’s rarest and most valuable gems – needs to be told.

JNA: What compelled Paspaley to support this project – Secret Life of Pearls – with the National Geographic Channel? What’s your main objective? Michael Bracher: Secret Life of Pearls delves into the mysterious and exciting world of Australia’s South Sea pearling industry. The one-hour documentary followed Paspaley’s pearling operations during the 2015 season and was largely shot on location in the Kimberley, north-west Australia. The partnership with National Geographic reflects the shared commitment to deliver international television viewers a rare insight into the extraordinary and undiscovered world of the Australian pearling industry and pearling process that includes diving for wild pearl oysters, operations, husbandry and harvest. The programme provides an insight into one of Australia’s most important luxury export industries. The primary objective of this initiative was to bring awareness to end- consumers about the extraordinary industry and gem that continues to come from Australia’s waters. The Australian industry is approximately 150 Snapshots from the documentary, years old and for a variety of reasons is unique in the world of pearls. We Secret Life of Pearls continue to catch wild pearl oysters whereas the international pearling industry

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predominantly relies on hatchery-reared oysters. The Australian output is regulated by government quotas, which results in comparatively stable production when compared to other pearl types. Our process results in a cultured pearl that can be sold with its natural colour and lustre, which is a highly desirable characteristic for discerning end-consumers. The programme also touches on Bracher: The the environmental and social responsibility of the Secret Life of Australian pearling industry. Such issues have become Pearls showcases buzz words in recent years but in some cases there the adventure and are large gaps between the broad claims of industry beauty of Australia’s and the actual operations. We believe that the more north-west and end-consumers know about the Australian pearling the romance, excitement and challenges behind industry, the more they will appreciate the Australian producing one of the world’s rarest and most beautiful pearl. The ultimate objective, of course, is to increase gems. It is a story of remarkable collaboration between demand for Australian South Sea pearls, which man and nature in one of the most remote and will improve business for the wholesale and retail dramatic landscapes on Earth. Australia is the only companies promoting our pearls. country in the world that still largely relies on the use This project compliments other initiatives directed of wild-caught pearl oysters for the production of at the wholesale and retail trade such as the its cultured pearls. It is a hostile and unpredictable development of an unbranded educational website environment. Divers searching for wild pearl oysters, (Australiansouthseapearls.com), marketing collateral to 20 miles off the most remote coast in Australia, face promote and educate global clients about the Australian hazards including deadly jellyfish and tiger sharks. pearling category, industry-level representation at Factors such as extreme heat, torrential rain and trade shows, and most recently the commission of cyclones make for a challenging work environment. It an international research project focused on the US is a huge effort in order to produce the world’s most and China that will inform the development of an valuable pearl and one that can be offered with its international marketing campaign to promote Australian natural colour and lustre. pearls over the next five to 10 years. The Secret Life of Pearls is set to air on National JNA: How long did it take Paspaley and the Geographic in 46 countries throughout 2016, ensuring National Geographic to finish the documentary? our key messages are delivered to a broad audience Had it been a challenging experience? on a global scale. Bracher: The Secret Life of Pearls project spanned five years from concept to delivery. Every JNA: In a nutshell, what is the documentary’s element of the film was intensively planned, ensuring focus? Could you give us at least a couple of that each stage of the pearling process was captured highlights? at the correct moment, as well as some of the remarkable environmental elements, which only occur during specific periods annually. Filming and editing spanned 18 months, ensuring that the documentary was ready for early 2016 for National Geographic internationally. The greatest challenge experienced in the creation of this documentary was in working with nature. Always unpredictable, we worked to ensure there was little surprise and a contingency plan if needed. We were fortunate to capture some elements in filming including the humpback whales, horizontal waterfalls and extreme sea life.

View the official trailer at natgeotv.com.au/tv/secret- life-of-pearls. JNA

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Pearls’ true beauty oko London has environment is not once again captivated putting a damper on Y consumers with its latest Yoko London’s growth collection of contemporary and strategy. sophisticated pearl jewellery “We take a very collection. long-term approach The brand recently unveiled in the way that we do one-of-a-kind masterpieces, business. One of the including luxurious necklaces benefits of this is that made of Tahitian, South Sea and market fluctuations do freshwater pearls. not affect us in the same The company also expanded way they might do others,” its offering of contemporary pearl he said. “Despite the economic jewellery, such as the items environment, we also continue seen in its Novus and Pendulum to innovate and create new collections, Yoko London CEO products.” Michael Hakimian said. The fine pearl jewellery brand “Over the past year, we’ve is also building on the momentum experienced growing demand for with retailers across the globe. modern and easy-to- We launched three wear pearl jewellery new collections at attractive price and added many points – pieces new designs which can be to our existing worn just as collections. All easily during the in all, 2015 was a day with a fantastic year for us,” pair of jeans he said. and a jumper, and This year, Yoko London into the night with an An 18-karat white gold bracelet with has several new partnerships elegant evening outfit. 9mm-10mm South Sea pearls and 1.30 in the pipeline, which will bring Going forward into carats of diamonds by Yoko London its exquisite jewellery to new 2016, we feel that the audiences worldwide. demand for this type gained in 2015, which Hakimian “We are also bubbling over of pearl jewellery will described as an exciting year for with creative new design ideas, remain high,” Hakimian Yoko London. which will be released said. “It started off with our throughout 2016,” he The current partnership with the BAFTA Film said. JNA challenging Awards, during which many macroeconomic celebrities bejewelled themselves in our designs for the awards and An 18-karat rose gold ring with surrounding parties. We went on A pair of 18-karat rose a 13mm-14mm gold earrings with to win the JCK Jewelers Choice natural colour 12mm-13mm natural Award for best pearl jewellery freshwater pearl colour, radiant orchid freshwater design for the second year and 88 points of pearls and 27 points of diamonds running. We have entered into diamonds by Yoko by Yoko London several exciting new partnerships London

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COMPANIES

Dreaming of

By Marie Feliciano

vel is marking a milestone in 2016 as it Ring, pendant and earrings from Yvel’s celebrates the 30th anniversary of its launch. Almog Collection YpearlsFounded by the husband-and-wife team of Isaac and Orna Levy, Yvel – which is the couple’s last Levy: After starting name spelled backwards – has firmly established itself out in 1986, this year we as a world-class jewellery design company that uses are excited and grateful the finest pearls, diamonds and coloured gemstones. to be celebrating 30 Years In this Q&A, Isaac shares with JNA Yvel’s exciting of Cultivating Beauty. As part initiatives this year, talks about some of the life of the celebrations, we recently revealed several lessons he has learned in his jewellery career, and surprises at BaselWorld 2016 including four new explains why he and his wife poured their hearts jewellery collections, a contemporary redesigned into Megemeria, a philanthropic jewellery school company logo, and a luxurious new booth reflecting and social business, which they founded in Israel in the organic aesthetic of our jewellery. Among other September 2010. initiatives, we also are launching an international media campaign and are opening our first Yvel JNA: Yvel is celebrating its 30th year in the boutique in Tel Aviv this summer. industry. If you were asked to name at least three of the most important decisions in your JNA: When and how did your passion for company’s 30-year history, what would those be? jewellery design start? Isaac Levy: The first and most important decision Levy: My wife and business partner, Orna, is was to marry my wife, Orna. She is my partner in a great granddaughter of Shlomo Moussaieff, a business and in life and she rabbi and famous pearl merchant from Bukhara is my closest friend. I could (Uzbekistan today) who immigrated to Jerusalem not have done it without her. in the late 19th century. Orna’s mother, Hannah, The second most important a granddaughter of Moussaieff, owned and decision was choosing to stay operated the jewellery store in the King David Hotel in Israel, to raise my children in Jerusalem. After we met and married in our there and manufacture our early twenties, Orna was sure she did not wish to jewellery there despite the fact continue in her family’s footsteps in the jewellery that living there comes with business. But once she innocently showed me how plenty of challenges. The third to string pearls I was captivated by the gorgeous most important decision was to gems and became intent to go into the business. stay true to my beliefs. I always Without much of a choice, Orna changed her believed that pearls should be mind and we began stringing pearls together in our a gem associated not only with apartment to sell. tradition and older women. JNA: Why does the pearl have a special JNA: What are the place in Yvel? activities and projects Levy: More than any other stone, when I look at that you have lined up this a pearl I fall in love. Not because of what I see but th Yvel’s designs highlight year to mark Yvel’s 30 because of all that I imagine. The pearl is the most the beauty of the pearl anniversary?

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called Peacock, which combines majestic green and blue tanzanites, and an additional lively collection featuring natural diamonds in different colours and shapes that is lots of fun.

JNA: What inspired you to start Megemeria? Levy: My experience immigrating to Israel as a child in the 1960s combined with the personal history of my wife, Orna, as a daughter of a family of immigrants, imprinted onto our hearts the desire to help Yvel founders Isaac and Orna Levy others in need. We sought to improve the plight of new immigrants to Israel by purposely employing immigrants feminine gem that exists. Designing fine jewellery with to work at Yvel. Today, over 90 percent of the more pearls is my primary medium to express my deep than 100 Yvel employees are immigrants from 23 respect and adoration of women. different countries. We wanted to do more, and this led to the establishment of the philanthropic Megemeria JNA: What is your business outlook for Yvel School of Jewelry, which provides free professional this year? Do you expect 2016 to be a tougher training and employment opportunities to the year for the luxury jewellery industry in general? particularly vulnerable Ethiopian immigrant community. Levy: There is no leading country today in the Megemeria means ‘new beginning’ in Amharic, the world either politically or financially. China is focused native language of Ethiopia, and the school truly offers on stabilising their economy, Russia’s currency has a bright new beginning to its students. lost 50 percent of its value, and Japan is still in a recession. Meanwhile, the Arab world is suffering from JNA: What do you hope to accomplish in the oil prices while Europe has its own issues and America next 30 years? is in an election year – something that never helps Levy: First, I would like to see our children join business, unless you are in the business of selling and continue this amazing journey that Orna and I flags. In 2014, we suspected that the global economy began 30 years ago. I have to say that 50 percent was not headed in the right direction. By 2015, we of that hope was accomplished when our daughter understood that 2016 would be a tough year and we Chen joined the company six months ago. Another prepared ourselves for this reality. We have taken a hope is to see the day when every woman in the very proactive approach for 2016, assertively entering world will have an Yvel design among her jewellery new markets in new and innovative ways. We made collection. Finally, my last hope is to lead the State of the decision to open Yvel standalone boutiques and Israel. I believe that I can do as well for the people of so far we have opened four including one in Tel Aviv, Israel and for the region as I do for the people of Yvel which will open this summer. We relocated to the and our customers. JNA most prestigious hall at BaselWorld 2016 and invested in a multimillion dollar booth that will carry us into the future. There is a saying, “Go big or go home,” and we feel we are far too young to go home.

JNA: In terms of jewellery design, what shapes, textures and colours do you think will resonate the most with consumers this year? Levy: We launched four new collections this year at the BaselWorld show and we are about to launch three more at the Couture Show in Las Vegas. All of them are contemporary, fresh looking and very fashion forward. We are introducing the younger generation to the beauty of natural Indonesian Keshi pearls in warm hues of yellow and gold, and the exotic allure Students at Megemeria, a social enterprise and jewellery school of natural Tahitian pearls in shades of black with hints for Israel’s Ethiopian immigrants, which was established by Isaac of golden undertones. We created a new collection and Orna Levy in 2010

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Angeperle continues to grow despite economic slowdown hinese freshwater pearl specialist Zhejiang CAngeperle Co Ltd managed to grab a bigger share of the market last year despite a sluggish global economy. “The market has been shrinking due to the global economic downturn, but we continued to increase our market share in recent years since we have our own pearl farms and factory, which guarantee a stable supply of pearls,” said Water Hu, From left: Water Hu, general manager of Angeperle (International) Co Ltd; general manager of Angeperle Angeperle’s booth at the March Hong Kong Fair (International) Co Ltd, whose parent company is Zhejiang essential in difficult times,” said also serves as a springboard Angeperle Co Ltd. the company official. to promote the company’s According to Hu, Angeperle Hu cited greater and smarter pearl jewellery to international recorded a 20 percent increase exposure at trade fairs as an customers. “Our business in turnover last year and did important tool in helping increase of finished jewellery in the not suffer any loss in profit. one’s market share. mainland market is already “For competitive companies, Zhejiang Angeperle Co Ltd well-established, but the pieces a weak economy provides an was listed on the New Third we promote in Hong Kong are opportunity to grow their market Board, an over-the-counter different from those we provide share as their advantages over stock exchange in mainland to the mainland. For the first their competitors in capital, China, in January this year. The time, we set up dedicated product quality and human company has a factory with booths for our finished products resources become more over 200 workers in Zhejiang, at the March Hong Kong Fair. with a monthly production of These pieces are meant to 2,000 to 3,000 kilograms of appeal to an international group pearls worth $3 million, of buyers,” Hu added. Hu revealed. The Angeperle executive Besides its believes small-sized pearls will be headquarters in much in demand this year. “We Zhejiang, Angeperle mostly sell mid- to top-quality also operates round freshwater pearls measuring in Hong Kong, 6mm to 12mm in diameter, priced Shenzhen, Hangzhou from $30 to $300 per strand. and Beijing. The Hong Kong White pearls are perennial best branch focuses on export, sellers, but other natural colours Gold and freshwater pearl jewellery with Italy, Germany and the are also popular these days. I by Zhejiang Angeperle Co Ltd US as its major destinations, think small-sized pearls measuring according to Hu. 4mm to 8mm in diameter will be The Hong Kong office much sought after this year.” JNA

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Chinese buyers to sustain growth in HK pearl sector

olid demand from China business activity in 2015. Apart will keep the Hong Kong from China, rising demand Spearl business afloat in from India was a welcome 2016 despite a slowdown in other development, remarked Sze. major gemstone and jewellery “India was among the biggest markets, according to the Hong growth contributors in 2015. Kong Pearl Association (HKPA). There is growing interest in Michael Sze, president of HKPA pearls among Indian buyers,” and managing director of Heng he added. The fastest-moving Mei Pearl Co Ltd, commented, products last year were round “We expect fluctuations in the US white freshwater and nucleated and European markets this year freshwater pearls. Loose pearl but we are optimistic that China’s products and strands were the strong buying power will continue most sought after, added the to support the pearl sector.” pearl specialist. Michael Sze, president of the Hong Kong pearl companies’ Hong Kong pearl companies, Hong Kong Pearl Association top export markets are the US however, face the challenge of and China, added Sze. dwindling raw material supply emerging destinations,” noted Citing industry data, the HKPA resulting from a drop in the Sze. “Educating ourselves official said the freshwater pearl number of pearl farms in China. about the different trends and market enjoyed solid growth in As such, Hong Kong pearl preferences of other markets the first half of 2015 but due to traders should place a premium on is one way of staying ahead of a downturn in the US, European product quality and diversification the competition. We can fulfil and Chinese markets, the to attract new clients. customers’ demands satisfactorily business dropped significantly in “Other than improving the if we understand what they are the second half of the year. quality of freshwater pearls that looking for.” we sell in the market, pearl In a previous interview, Sze New business dealers should likewise look mentioned that sales of top- Other markets, however, for different markets such as quality pearls are expected to contributed to a generally smooth Brazil and India, among other climb this year on the back of strong demand for design- oriented pieces that highlight the beauty of pearls. He noted that demand could further increase as more international brands feature pearls in their pieces and as designs become trendier and more chic. The industry official also commented that Hong Kong pearl suppliers must maintain high-quality control standards, diversify product portfolios and implement a dynamic marketing From left: Souffle pearls from Heng Mei Pearl Co Ltd; pearl necklaces campaign to stay competitive. JNA

︱Pearl Report 37 COMPANIES

Hong Kong supplier sees strong demand for exceptional freshwater pearls

ith European Lu said he will be stepping economies remaining up his level of business activity W in the doldrums, Hong in China in the near term. “We Kong-based Living Stone Pearl didn’t focus on the mainland Co, a major supplier of smaller- market in the past because sized freshwater pearls, is we didn’t want to engage in banking on business from local cut-throat competition with traders who have a hefty appetite Chinese suppliers. Obviously, for top-quality products. things have changed. Mainland “I don’t see much room for buyers nowadays attach greater growth in our export business importance to quality,” Lu said. – primarily to Italy – so we are Living Stone Pearl operates concentrating more on the Hong a factory in Changzhou City, Kong market. Our local business Jiangsu Province in mainland is more stable, and buyers here China with about 70 staff and a are willing to stock up on our Harry Lu, director of Living Stone Pearl Co monthly production of 3,000 to goods, instead of only purchasing 5,000 kilograms. the quantities they need,” said group of jewellers doing business Lu considers quality control company director Harry Lu. on the Internet. “WeChat jewellers as the company’s core strength. Despite a global economic are proliferating in mainland “Unlike some other companies, slowdown, the company China. They tend to use mid- we are involved throughout recorded robust sales figures to high-quality pearls in their the production process, in 2015 and anticipates steady pieces to impress potential from sourcing to processing. growth in 2016, according to Lu. customers. This has created a Therefore, we manage to maintain When asked about market new opportunity for loose pearl the high quality of our products in trends, Lu said higher-priced sellers,” he explained. a consistent manner.” JNA freshwater pearls are moving The March Hong Kong Fair well. “Pearls at both ends of the has also made Lu more aware price spectrum are selling at the of the potential of the mainland moment – those priced from Chinese market. “We didn’t meet $1,000 to $1,500 per kilogram many European and American and those costing $200 to $300 buyers at the fair. Instead, we per kilogram. Our most popular managed to connect with several items are medium-sized round new customers from mainland pearls, measuring 4mm to 6mm China. They were very particular in diameter that cost $1,000 per about the quality of products kilogram. We have to work harder and cared less about the price to move mid-priced pearls that point. This attitude stands in stark sell at $500 per kilogram.” contrast to that of their European Lu also sees rising demand counterparts, who are most for top-quality freshwater pearls concerned about price points Freshwater pearl strands by Living Stone in mainland China, due to a new these days.” Pearl Co

38 ︱Pearl Report COMPANIES

Wing Wo Hing serves up modern styles in silver

By Olivia Quiniquini Fast movers for the company this ing Wo Hing Jewelry Group Ltd is year are jewellery redefining the codes of design for pearl pieces with exciting Wjewellery in silver by offering modern and designs that cost trendy styles that appeal to a younger demographic. less than $50 each Customers have become far more discerning at wholesale. Most of these days when it comes to design, noted Jennifer the popular items sport Tse, deputy general manager of the Hong Kong- freshwater pearls that Rock pearl studs in rose based pearl silver jewellery specialist. “Buyers have are less than 10mm in gold-plated silver. All images been asking for wearable jewellery pieces that have diameter and Tahitian courtesy of Wing Wo Hing interesting styles imbued with character at good pearls from 9mm to Jewelry Group Ltd price points. We’ve therefore developed collections 12mm in size. Wing Wo that are contemporary and stylish. The jewellery can Hing requires a minimum order of 50 units per style be worn daily to the office and carries well to evening and delivers within six to events such as parties and special occasions. We eight weeks. want to make pearl products look fashionable so that According to Tse, they will be more attractive to younger business for the pearl silver people,” Tse remarked. jewellery manufacturer was Wing Wo Hing is also offering comparatively slow in 2015 due more Tahitian pearl options in to the global economic downturn and silver, since many of its clients are the currency upheavals in Europe. The attracted to the striking contrast of company official however anticipates an dark pearls against gleaming white metal, upturn in fortunes within the year. “The she said. Different materials and concepts economic situation should start recovering will also eventually be incorporated into the by the third or fourth quarter of 2016. company’s silver pieces to further enhance The US market has been rather active at the appeal of its jewellery among the younger present, and this should help us going crowd. forward,” she commented. “Pearls are versatile, precious gems that Wing Wo Hing is also actively are an essential in every woman’s jewellery engaging the e-commerce channel repertoire. Silver is a flexible metal that allows to reach a wider audience. It for creative expression at relatively affordable Silver ear recently launched a website that rates compared to gold. Pearl silver jewellery climbers with allows customers to view the is therefore ideal for those seeking modern dangling pearls company’s latest releases and styles that express their personality without place orders online. breaking the bank. Moreover, we offer Established in 1981, Wing Wo Hing can various plating options to suit every produce up to half a million pieces of jewellery complexion and occasion,” a month at its factory in Guangzhou, China Tse explained. that employs 1,000 workers and craftsmen. Over the years, it has built a name for itself as a manufacturer of an extensive range of silver Pearl ear climbers jewellery with pearls, everything from classic in silver designs to modern styles. JNA

︱Pearl Report 39 JEWELLERY SHOWCASE

Captivating

reasured for their lustre T and iridescent colours, pearls are a pearlsmust for stylish women everywhere. Here are some of the exceptional jewellery collections that show off the simple perfection of pearls.

Golden gems

1. Gold necklace with pearls, emeralds and diamonds from Moksh Jewellery’s Symphony Collection 2. This pair of golden South Sea pearl and diamond earrings from Autore’s Metropolitan Collection celebrates the majesty of Palace De Versailles 3. A necklace composed of 13 golden South Sea pearls set with diamonds

in 18-karat gold by Jewelmer Joaillerie. This necklace is part of the luxury Getty Images pearl jeweller’s Bollicine Collection Runway photo: Fall/Winter 2016-2017 collection by Maya Hansen

40 ︱Pearl Report JEWELLERY SHOWCASE

Exotic

beauties 1 Getty Images 2

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1. An 18-karat white gold necklace with 11mm-14mm Tahitian pearls and 13.34 carats of diamonds by Yoko London 2. Gold ring set with a Tahitian pearl centre gem and embellished with diamonds from Utopia’s Gallery Collection 3. Necklace in 18-karat gold with diamonds and Tahitian pearls from Porchet’s Comet Collection 4. Tahitian pearl and coloured gemstone ring by Mousson Atelier Runway photo: Fall/Winter 2016-2017 collection by The 2ndSkin

︱Pearl Report 41 JEWELLERY SHOWCASE

Elegance and grace Getty Images

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1. & 2. Tulip South Sea pearl rings and necklace by Tamara Comolli 3. Emotion freshwater pearl earrings in 18-karat gold with diamonds from Schoeffel’s Classic Collection 4. A pair of 18-karat gold earrings with South Sea pearls and diamond accents from Autore’s Metropolitan Collection. The earrings’ design was inspired by one of the world’s greatest architectural masterpieces, the Forbidden City Runway photo: Fall/Winter 2016-2017 collection by Juana Martin

42 ︱Pearl Report JEWELLERY SHOWCASE

Gorgeous colours

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1. A pair of earrings in 18-karat white gold with 12mm-13mm freshwater pearls, 1.79 carats of diamonds and 1.09 carats of sapphires by Yoko London 2. Scarlet pearl necklace from Schoeffel’s Collier Collection. The ‘Scarlet’ pearl, which Schoeffel introduced at BaselWorld 2016, is a freshwater pearl that comes in a wide range of colours from metallic pink and intense dark violet to purple tones and rose-pink hues 3. Happy Day Scarlet Pearl earrings in 18-karat rose gold from Schoeffel’s Classic Collection Runway photo: Fall/Winter 2016-2017 collection by Juanjo Oliva

︱Pearl Report 43 行業動態

內地珍珠商變法突圍

內地珍珠市場近年的表現引證了普遍業者 相信的珠寶平民化、珠寶未來將是民生用 品的趨勢。然而，隨著珍珠首飾越來越多 人買得起、懂得買，也意味著消費者會越 來越著重品牌與設計。國內珍珠龍頭企業 在新形勢下，面臨那些挑戰與新機遇？

天使之淚 在1993年創立於「中國珍珠之都」諸暨山下湖的天使之淚，自2008年 開設華東區首家旗艦店後，陸續在天津、南京、青島等地先後開設旗艦店， 並於2012年在北京及深圳設立分公司，標誌著天使之淚北上南下的策略全面 啟動，穩步執行該公司所制定的長遠品牌戰略，把珍珠產業以科技化、規模 化及品牌化發展。

浙江天使之淚珍珠股份有限公司品牌總監戚筱曼表示：「今年國際形勢以至 內地經濟環境還是持續疲弱，沒有明顯上揚的跡象。在這種情況下，珍珠相 對於珠寶市場內其他品類的產品中，仍屬於消費得起的類別，更易被大眾所 接受；故此，包括我們在歐美、東南亞以至國內的客戶，對珍珠的接受程度 還是不斷提升。」

44 亞洲珠寶︱珍珠特刊 行業動態

正因為珍珠的價值差別很大，每顆珍珠的價格可以由幾塊 珠「愛迪生珍珠」，品質不斷提升，在淡水珍珠市場普 錢至幾萬元，對客戶而言有更大的靈活度及空間去調節產 遍淡靜下，憑藉質量及價格的競爭優勢，整體表現仍符合 品的貨型及價格去迎合市場需要。以早前3月份舉行的香 預期。 港國際珠寶展為例，戚小姐表示，無論來自內地、歐美以 至台灣的客戶，他們在這種經濟大環境下，都偏好選擇一 佳麗珍珠高級業務主管程祁蕊表示：「從客戶的反饋，去 些中檔的貨品。「展會期間平均每名客戶的下單量都達到 年的整體表現較2014年更差，愛迪生珍珠作為市場新品， 10萬美金。」 無可避免需要一點時間讓市場認識。在經過數年無論是市 場及價格的磨合期之後，目前是明顯感覺到市場已打開， 「我們近年銳意加大推廣力度，冀抓住年青客戶、爭取更 客戶下訂單都是數十萬美元的，而且每次回頭再下訂單的 大曝光率。事實上，內地民眾的消費力以至對珍珠的接受 數量都是以倍數增加。」 程度已全面提升，除了淡水珍珠之外，內地市場對其他品 類的珍珠亦有需求。作為一家集生產至銷售全面性珍珠生 「佳麗珍珠目前的客戶仍以歐洲為主，他們能接受較高檔 產商，我們要為客戶提供最多元的選擇，所以近年我們也 一點的貨色，當然內地客戶的比例也不少。尤其現在微商 引入海水珍珠、南洋珍珠等珍珠品類，以滿足內地客戶的 的銷售量非常火，絕對不能忽視，內地的客戶表示經微商 需求。」 的網上銷售量已遠超於他們在天貓、京東等網購商店。」

她稱，2015年天使之淚整體的銷售量、產值都比2014年 展望2016年，程小姐預期愛迪生珍珠的價格將保持穩定， 有所增長。「去年起，我們看到美國市場有顯著的回升。 而白色珍珠的產量及品質都會有所提升。「我們的感覺是 當然，內地市場仍然是一個具龐大發展空間的市場，因為 市場確實慢慢的好起來，而且我們對愛迪生珍珠的出品很 內地的發展勢頭仍然向好，目前內地市場的生意佔公司整 有信心。白色的品質不斷提高、紫色暈彩的一直有需求且 體業務近一半。」 價格亦漲起來，總的來說我們對本年度的珍珠市場仍然是 樂觀的。」 天使之淚每年均參加國內外各大型珠寶展覽會，客戶遍及 香港、日本、迪拜、俄羅斯、意大利、法國、美國等不同 天地潤珍珠 國家和地區，同時亦與海內外一線品牌保持良好的貿易關 浙江天地潤珍珠有限公司積極開拓國際市場，於2001年在 係。天使之淚來港參展也有十年，通過展覽會、雜誌推廣 香港註冊天地潤珍珠集團（香港）有限公司，藉香港的貿 也累積了一定客戶。「客戶對我們的珍珠品質及服務也十 易平台主力發展歐美及亞洲市場。天地潤珍珠集團(香港) 分認同。互聯網、大數據的信息互通，買家更能掌握到公 有限公司總經理王紀中表示，淡水珍珠過去一年的產量大 司的背景及實力，客戶明白到天使之淚是第一手原材料的 幅減少接近一半，然而在供應量銳減的情況下，價格卻只 珍珠商。2016年，公司計劃加強成品首飾的業務，打破 錄得輕微升幅。「淡水珍珠市場經歷了數年的調整期，但 過往只集中銷售原材料的模式，而我們發展成品首飾在價 在歐美經濟仍未顯著上升的情況下，相信淡水珍珠商仍要 格方面亦有一定優勢，成品首飾業務目前主要針對內地市 支撐一段時間。我們作為珍珠生產商，處於整個產業鏈最 場，可以由內地的自家廠房直接發貨到客戶手中。」 艱難的位置，既要面對原材料上漲的壓力，銷路亦受影 響，且利潤空間也越來越狹窄。天地潤除了積極豐富產品 佳麗珍珠 類型之外，亦正考慮把香港的業務從只集中於原材料批發 集淡水珍珠科研養殖、首飾設計、加工、銷售於一體的佳 伸延至成品首飾業務。憑著天地潤珍珠品牌在內地的知名 麗珍珠集團，經過多年研發出來的大顆粒正圓淡水有核珍 度及產品品質，期望開闢不同客源促進銷售。」

亞洲珠寶︱珍珠特刊 45 行業動態

本年3月份香港國際鑽石、寶石 及珍珠展內的日本珍珠館情況

日本珍珠商冀擴闊亞洲市場

據日本貿易振興機構(JETRO) 綜觀去年的表現，清水先生表示，以 根統計，2015年從日本出口往 海水珍珠(akoya)的銷售最突出，銷 香港的天然及養殖珍珠，達到251億 售量增長逾兩成，反觀南洋珍珠及大 日圓，跟前一年相比大增40.9%，創 溪地珍珠則保持穩定或輕微下跌。至 下歷史新高，香港躍升為日本珍珠業 於2016年，鑑於環球經濟狀況仍未 最重要的出口市場，而輸往香港的珍 見明朗，預料高價產品的銷售情況不 珠，當中有七成是轉銷到中國大陸， 會太活躍，相信中價至大眾化價格、 這也引證了近年在香港舉行的國際珠 且品質不俗的產品將繼續主導市場。 寶展覽會上，日本珍珠館總是充斥著 內地買家的現象。 日本珍珠的品質以至珍珠首飾的細緻 造工、創新設計，都是深受內地消費 日本貿易振興機構已連續七年牽頭組 者青睞的原因。「隨著珍珠首飾越來 織日本珍珠館參與香港國際珠寶展， 越年輕化，一些設計時尚、適合日常 本年度有102家日本珍珠商參與。今 佩戴的珍珠首飾將會成為未來的珍珠 年更首度於展會期間舉行業界交流 飾品潮流。」 會，為買家及日本珍珠商搭建溝通及 洽商平台。 內地消費者對具故事性、話題性的 產品相當感興趣，且尤其受名人效應 日本珍珠出口商會主席清水勝央 日本珍珠出口商會主席清水勝央指 所影響。近年內地民眾對珍珠的熱 出，亞洲尤其是來自中國的買家是 度越來越高，其中一個重要的推動力 他預期，海水珍珠價格在2016年仍 目前的主要客源。「以3月香港展為 就是中國第一夫人彭麗媛在出席各大 會拾級而上，南洋珍珠及大溪地珍珠 例，各類珍珠、不同檔次品質均有需 重要場合都佩戴珍珠首飾，令珍珠成 料保持平穩。「珍珠價格持續企穩， 求。不過，買家採購態度十分審慎， 為民眾心目中，不可或缺的時尚潮 令公眾對珍珠產品更有信心，有利珍 價格仍是首要考慮因素。」 流首飾。 珠飾品需求。」

46 亞洲珠寶︱珍珠特刊

行業動態

緬甸珍珠拍賣會成交額逾1,330萬美元

地市場對金色南洋珍珠的熱 內情不褪使過去數年這類珍珠 的價格大幅攀升。儘管內地經濟持續 放緩及打貪政策打擊了奢侈品市場的 表現，但市場對金色南洋珍珠的需求 仍持續旺勢。整體而言在供不應求的 情況下，優質南洋金珠市場仍然一 片向好。

本年2月底在香港舉行的第四屆緬甸 珍珠拍賣會暨Belpearl auction拍 來自東南亞以外地區的買家人數屬歷屆之最 賣會，共提供609組珍珠拍品，總重 亞洲市場購買力 量為146,290錢，最後成功售出505 及價格 是次拍賣會的協辦單位 組，成交率約83%，總成交金額接 Belpearl 相對仍 代表 近1,500萬美元，平均每錢成交價為 (Hong Kong) Ltd Michael 屬可接受 表示，是次緬甸珍珠拍賣會可 106美元。其中緬甸珍珠佔總成交金 Hajjar 的水平下，反而 供拍賣的珍珠中，級數屬優質的珍珠 額近九成、達到1,333萬美元，平均 越來越受到市場 所佔的比例較過去三屆都顯著增加。 每錢成交價接近155美元。 歡迎。」 而從Belpearl 拍賣會所見，有新的 大溪地珍珠養殖戶專門研究養殖大 是次拍賣會共有約 第四屆緬甸拍賣會 + 顆、質優的珍珠。「無論是白色、金 100家公司參與， Belpearl拍賣會 色的南洋珍珠抑或大溪地珍珠，我相 當中約85名買家成功 信買家對珍珠品質的要求會越來越 競投拍品。此外，來自東南亞以外地 拍賣總數 609組、146,290錢 高。而亞洲市場仍然是支撐珍珠業的 區的買家人數屬歷屆之最。 售出總數 505組、139,721錢 最大動力。」 成交金額 下一屆緬甸珍珠拍賣會暫定於本年 緬甸南洋珠 13,330,800美元 有參與是次拍賣會的香港珍珠商表 11月舉行，將會拍賣從緬甸兩家主 示，是次緬甸拍賣會所出售的珍珠， 要珍珠養殖戶所收集得來的珍珠。而 大溪地珍珠 1,142,462美元 總體的質量都較過去三屆為高，以成 下一次Belpearl 拍賣會則會於6月21 菲律賓南洋珠 446,124美元 交價來看，價格亦有一定升幅。「緬 至22日舉行，拍品將包括印尼知名 總成交金額 14,919,386美元 甸南洋金珠一般的厘碼較小，不及產 南洋珍珠生產商PT. Bima Sakti 資料提供：Belpearl (HK)Ltd 自菲律賓或印尼，但在品質持續提升 Mutiara + TM.的收成品。

48 亞洲珠寶︱珍珠特刊

行業動態

電商盛行助推珍珠市場

珠飾品近年越趨年輕化，內地市場對珍珠的 珍需求保持穩定。香港淡水珍珠生產商恆美珍珠 有限公司董事總經理施浩然表示，3月香港珠寶展整 體人流理想，但買家的採購量與去年同期比較明顯減 少。「內地微商和電商的興起吸引了小本經營的創業 者，對珍珠飾品的需求及關注度具帶動作用。」他預 期2016年珍珠業的整體表現會較去年略為好轉，期望 公司能維持雙位數字增長。

隨著珍珠首飾年輕化，加上近年珍珠在時裝、配飾等 的應用層面也越來越廣泛，很多知名品牌也採用珍珠 作為產品的基本原料。施先生深信，珍珠市場的發展 恆美珍珠有限公司董事總經理 暨香港珍珠商會會長施浩然 趨勢持續良好。「無論是何種貨型及價格的珍珠均有 客路。內地市場如今電商、微商盛行，也吸引了很多 散客作小批量的採購。」他解釋，進入微商的門檻 低、幾乎是零成本，珠寶微商的經營模式衍生出很多個體小店，其覆蓋面及 推廣力度，讓珍珠飾品越來越受到注目。

年內珠價續升 過去兩年，7至8毫米及8至9毫米的淡水珍珠價格被市場炒高。回顧2015年的 珍珠市場的表現，顯然仍然受到環球經濟狀況所影響而表現平平。施先生有 信心，2016年的市場情況會較去年理想。「從3月的香港國際 珠寶展所見，雖然買家的數量有見增加，例如來自亞洲 地區如越南、柬埔寨以至歐美的買家明顯增多， 但他們的購買量不多，採購意慾仍然相當審 慎。至於年內的珍珠價格，預料亦會逐步調 升，幅度達雙位數字。」

香港珍珠商會今年成立15周年，身兼香港 珍珠商會會長的施浩然表示，今年將會投 選出新一屆內閣委員，而從2016年起，會 長及所有內閣成員的任期將由目前的兩年期 改為三年，讓當選的各成員在任期內有更長 的時間規劃更全面的工作及發展。「此外，香 港珍珠商會過往主要服務於香港的珍珠商，今後希 望將會員的層面更多元化，故此會全面放寬會員要 求，歡迎全球各地的珍珠商加入，冀招攬更多不同地區 的會員，令商會的接觸面及影響力更為廣泛。」

50 亞洲珠寶︱珍珠特刊

行業動態

大溪地珍珠市場前景樂觀

為一個自由貿易港及通往中國內地和亞洲其他國家的跳板，香港依然 作是大溪地珍珠和有關珠寶首飾的主要貿易樞紐。 自2010 年以來，香 港已超越日本，成為大溪地珍珠最大的進口地，2014年進口香港的大溪地珍 珠佔整體出口的52%。主要轉口地包括中國內地、 日本、 美國、 歐洲、 印 度、 中東和其他東南亞國家。

頂級珍珠漲幅逾倍 近年珍珠母貝短缺，令生產下降，在供應量減少的刺激下，大溪地 珍珠的價格近年持續攀升。回顧大溪地珍珠近年的出口價值，漲 幅顯著。根據法屬玻尼利西亞海洋資源部公布的統計數字，以 2014與2010年的數值比較，大溪地珍珠出口數量下跌 11%。 然而出口價值卻上升 17%。資料亦顯示，每克的平均價格上升 31%；高品質珍珠的價格更上漲逾倍。

麗雅珠行出品的大 香港大溪地黑珍珠協會會長鄭廷偉表示，受到珍珠母貝的數量持續減少，預 嘴鳥造型珍珠胸針 期大溪地珍珠未來的產量將會逐年下跌。「珠蠔短缺成為行業面對的最大挑 戰。雖然大溪地珍珠的需求上升，但珍珠養殖商在產量下跌的情況下，難有 足夠的優質珍珠供應給市場。大溪地珍珠的顏色、形狀、大小及光澤獨特， 但屬於頂級檔次的，大概只佔總產量不足2%。」然而，他對大溪地珍珠市場 的未來發展仍表樂觀，去年底在大溪地舉行的多場珍珠拍賣會亦反映出，買 家對2016年市場前景充滿信心。

香港大溪地黑珍珠協會會長鄭廷偉(左四)及創會會長陳榮明(左二)，與2015香港珠寶 小姐合照

52 亞洲珠寶︱珍珠特刊 行業動態

多家香港珍珠商親赴大溪地參與當地舉行的珍珠拍賣會

「內地市場對大溪地珍珠的需求熱 談到買家對大溪地珍珠喜好，該協 到年青消費者青睞。至於一些追求個 情不減，尤其電商銷售表現突出， 會指，直徑10毫米或以上、黑色和 性化產品的消費者，則會傾向選購一 帶起小顆大溪地珍珠的需求。從近 色澤亮麗的優質及圓渾的大溪地珍珠 些外型獨特的珍珠。」 期舉行的大溪地珍珠拍賣會可知， 最受內地買家歡迎。而歐美及日本 拍賣成績亦見理想。例如去年11月 市場則偏好8至9毫米、各種形式包 今年3月份舉行的香港國際珠寶展覽 在大溪地舉行的第14屆Rikitea大溪 括圓形、近圓或不規則型等。「內地 會，部分銷售大溪地珍珠的參展商 地珍珠拍賣會，總成交金額達到333 年輕消費群愛好網上購物，令價格大 均指，整體表現合符預期。除了優 萬美元，較拍賣前預期高出三成， 眾化、設計時尚的大溪地珍珠首飾越 質的珍珠繼續受到買家追捧外，8至 合共售出282,888顆珍珠，成交率高 來越受到內地市場歡迎。一些設計簡 9毫米、以及大眾化檔次的珍珠亦同 達98%。」 約、適合日常佩戴的珍珠首飾尤其受 樣有需求。

香港大溪地黑珍珠協會總經理黃素珠 大溪地珍珠2014年出口數據 表示，過去一年，香港大溪地黑珍珠 目的地 重量 數量 總值 協會繼續透過參與大型展覽會和派發 百分比 百分比 百分比 (千克) (百萬) (百萬太平洋法郎) 宣傳小冊子及贈品予買家等多元化推 香港 7,471 52.1% 4,194 50.2% 4,249 49.3% 廣活動以持續引起公眾對大溪地珍珠 的關注，協會去年組織了大溪地考察 日本 6,276 43.8% 3,801 45.5% 3,984 46.2% 團帶領一眾來自深圳的珍珠業者親訪 美國 222 1.5% 118 1.4% 129 1.5% 大溪地，了解當地的珍珠養殖情況及 法國 123 0.9% 92 1.1% 82 1.0% 參與多場珍珠拍賣會，又聯繫了當地 相關部門與考察團成員會面，讓彼此 新喀里多尼亞 92 0.6% 66 0.8% 83 1.0% 有更直接的交流機會。 中國 32 0.2% 16 0.2% 17 0.2%

其他 125 0.9% 61 0.7% 78 0.9% 此外，協會亦是2015香港珠寶小姐 競選的鑽石贊助商。期內亦透過與珠 總數 14,341 100% 8,348 100% 8,622 100% 寶設計師及珠寶首飾設計比賽主辦機 大溪地珍珠2010及2014年的出口比較 構的合作鼓勵更多設計師使用大溪地 年份 重量 總值 每克價格 珍珠於其作品中。總經理黃小姐表 (噸) (百萬太平洋法郎) (百萬太平洋法郎) 示，2016，協會將會贊助「JMA國 2010 16.1 7,357 - 際珠寶設計比賽」兩個公開組別的冠 軍得主親遊大溪地，讓他們置身世外 2014 14.3 8,622 - 桃源、藉迷人景致啟迪創作靈感。 變化 -11% +17% +31% 「期望透過不同渠道的合作，進一步

資料來源：法屬玻尼利西亞海洋資源部 提升大溪地珍珠的形象。」

亞洲珠寶︱珍珠特刊 53 行業動態

深圳市珍珠行業協會選新會長

3月12日，深圳市珍珠行業協會召開 第一屆第二次會員大會，協會監事長 鄭碧武主持會長屆中調整和增補副會 長、理事成員選舉。深圳市魅力飾珠 寶首飾有限公司涂興財當選協會理事 會會長。深圳市金麗國際珍珠交易市 場有限公司陸加良、浙江佳麗珍珠首 飾有限公司王芳、深圳市歐祺亞實業 有限公司金濤、深圳市千足珠寶有限 公司陳華、榮昌珠寶（深圳）有限 公司 杜源揚、民生珠寶（香港）有 限公司鄭嘉淇當選深圳市珍珠行業協 深圳市珍珠行業協會召開會員大會，進行會長屆中調整和增補副會長、理事成員選舉 會副會長。理事會聘請金麗珠寶交易 中心的陳春竹為深圳市珍珠行業協會 當晚舉辦協會2016年春茗會，會中 未正式當選深圳市珍珠行業協會理事 秘書長。 進行了會長單位和增補副會長、會員 會會長之前，涂先生一直都是會內的 新任會長涂興財發表講話，表示將為 的授牌儀式。深圳市珍珠行業協會創 活躍份子，投入於珍珠行業及會內事 會員做好服務，加強與兄弟協會交流 會會長張躍華為新任會長魅力飾珠寶 務。去年協會發起制定《深圳市珍珠 與合作，推動珍珠協會和珍珠產業的 董事長涂興財授牌。新當選會長涂興 行業協會自律公約》，涂總與一眾會 發展。協會會員單位代表近70人出 財為新增補的副會長單位授牌。 員一樣，一起參與研究有關約章及推 席會議，審議通過了《深圳市珍珠行 動工作，他表示：「深圳行業協會內 早前，涂興財在接受《亞洲珠寶》 業協會2015年度工作報告》和《深 所有成員與業界團結一致，是行業長 專訪時表示：「正當全球經濟出現波 圳市珍珠行業協會2014—2015年度 遠健康發展的關鍵。透過協會組織的 動，珍珠業的春天卻剛剛展開。」 財務報告》。 多項海內外交流活動，不單有助促進 涂興財在會員大會召開前一周出席香 業者之間的緊密協作，更有利於業者 港國際鑽石、寶石、珍珠展，他指 進一步加深對各地市場及消費者的了 出：「從市場的發展路徑及消費者表 解，從而推出更多適切當前市場所需 現來看，各類珍珠的需求與銷情正在 的產品與貼心服務，加深鞏固中國珍 穩步上揚，縱使各地的經濟狀況在過 珠行業的可持續發展。」 去18個月呈現種種變數，這些不明 朗的因素並未為珍珠業界帶來重大影 涂先生補充，近年中國大眾消費市 響。過往，當各地市場趨熱，尤其是 場對各類珍珠的認識及需求不斷增 中國內地的經濟急速增長時，珍珠行 長，與國家第一夫人在出席海內外 業所受到的推動僅算溫婉，相反，當 活動期間時常佩戴珍珠不無關係。 各地被經濟逆轉陰霾濃罩時，珍珠市 「珍珠的高貴並時尚形象大升，同 場的正面趨勢仍得以持續，表明了珍 時吸引年輕及成熟群眾對珍珠的熱 珠業現正走在穩定而健康的發展道路 愛，珠寶商推出更多創新及時尚的 上，外圍波動並未對行業本身穩定的 珍珠款式將繼續牽動內地消費者對 發展及消費者對珍珠越加喜愛的趨勢 珍珠的熱情，持久地保持珍珠市場 深圳市魅力飾珠寶首飾有限公司涂興財當 選深圳市珍珠行業協會理事會會長 造成障礙。」 穩步遞升的正面趨勢。」

54 亞洲珠寶︱珍珠特刊

公司專訪

MIKIMOTO 1881 Heritage新店 店內設計以海洋為主題，並糅合日本傳統文化元素

MIKIMOTO：品牌歷史見證珍珠品質

際著名珍珠品牌 國MIKIMOTO本年首 季於香港尖沙咀最繁華的 購物區1881 Heritage開 設全新門店，以珍珠延 續完美之路。新店佔地逾 2,000平方呎，是該品牌在 香港及澳門地區的第八家專 門店。

MIKIMOTO 1881 Heritage新店的設 計靈感源自海洋，並糅合日本傳統文化 MIKIMOTO董事長熊井敏之 元素。以現代材質刻劃當代的時尚氣 息，但又不失日本的傳統藝術格調。 天花藝術裝置靈感源自日本昭和初期矢 車 (Yaguruma) 設計。此外，店內的設計參照日本傳統紡織品西陣織 (Nishijinori)，由不同材質組成的牆身，有敞亮的修飾效果，通過手工 藝描繪海洋的波光。VIP專區設計則相對柔和，以夜空襯托下的海洋， 與店面的明亮奪目形成鮮明對比。

18K金日本 MIKIMOTO Pearl Jewellery (HK) Ltd董事長熊井敏之(Toshiyuki akoya珍珠及南 洋珍珠配白色翡 Kumai)表示，產品品質一直是我們最看重的，這包括在珍珠的品質 翠及鑽石的項鏈 及設計、工藝多方面的配合。「珍珠產品有別於其他奢侈品，它需要 及耳環 客戶親身去鑑賞其光澤、顏色，故此我們在店舖的裝潢及佈局上花了 不少心思，同時亦為所有前線員工提升專業的知識培訓，以提升整體 服務水平，務求為客戶帶來最佳的店舖體驗。」

56 亞洲珠寶︱珍珠特刊 公司專訪

結合本地元素 MIKIMOTO 目前在香港的客戶，有超過六成是內地 旅客，其餘是本地客及外國遊客。「近年，我們 發現由於匯價的差距，不少內地旅客在大中華區 MIKIMOTO專門店看到心儀的產品後，會選擇到 日本購買。故此，我們針對大中華區推行地區限 定產品，又聘請本地的設計師，把華人喜愛的元 素加入產品設計中；例如去年以『8』為設計主題 的珠寶系列，把『8』的財富寓意與中國繩結的吉 祥祝福結合，市場反應十分理想。另外，早前推出 的『MIKIMOTO×HELLO KITTY』系列，市場反應空 前成功，並成功吸納年青的顧客群，把品牌打入年青 消費市場。」

「我們在產品開發上會考慮到本地因素，也希望爭取更多 年青的顧客。事實上，珍珠首飾已不只限於出席喜慶場合佩 戴，現在已發展成為可作為日常佩戴的時尚首飾。無可否認， 我們的顧客仍以35歲至65歲的成熟女性為主，但以銷售量 計，港幣10,000以下日常佩戴款式仍是最受歡迎的產品，佔總 銷售量約六成。」

提升品牌形象 2015年全球奢侈品市場也經歷嚴峻的一年，香港零售市 場受內地訪客旅客減少及經濟表現疲弱影響，表現顯著 下跌。展望2016年，熊井先生相信市場仍充滿種種挑 戰：「本年度暫沒有進一步開設新店的計劃，主力鞏固 現有的產品和服務水平，提升MIKIMOTO在大中華區的 品牌形象，進一步加強宣傳推廣方面的工作，致力讓公眾 更加認識到品牌的歷史及對品質的重視。」

模特兒佩戴18K金南洋珍珠項鏈 18K金海螺珠鑲鑽項鏈

亞洲珠寶︱珍珠特刊 57 公司專訪

麗雅珠行於香港辦公室舉行珍珠拍賣會

業者看好南洋珍珠市場升勢

港是全球主要的珍珠集散地及 南洋金珠近年在亞洲市場受到追 批發商參與。事實上，在日本專營南 香珍珠貿易中心，也是全球商家 捧，主要受惠於內地市場的強勁需 洋珍珠批發的珍珠商逾百間，但要數 採購珍珠的重要窗口，全球主要珍珠 求。麗雅珠行董事總經理鄭廷偉表 香港專營南洋珍珠批發的珍珠商則不 養殖商也選址香港舉行珍珠拍賣會。 示，市場對金色南洋珍珠的需求不 出十間，所以未來我們拍賣會的主要 香港珍珠商麗雅珠行於本年1月份亦 減，優質的珍珠仍然不愁出路；現 買家仍會是日本珍珠商。」 舉行了一場珍珠拍賣會，拍賣成績相 時南洋金珠的需求尤其集中於尺寸 當理想，並計劃於下半年再舉辦一場 較細的8至10毫米，價格升幅亦較 鑑於拍賣會的反應理想，鄭先生期 拍賣會。 明顯。 望在貨量及珍珠品質俱符合理想水平 的情況下，於下半年舉辦多一場拍賣 該公司在今年1月舉行的珍珠拍賣 會。「早前拍賣會出售的南洋金珠主 會，可供拍賣的243,947顆珍珠中， 要在11毫米或以上，在市場對細珠 包括117,290顆南洋金珠、114,412 的需求顯著上升的情況下，未來會考 顆為大溪地珍珠及12,245顆南洋白 慮增加養殖厘碼小的珍珠。」 珠；最後幾近悉數售出，總成交金額 超過500萬美元。 麗雅珠行早於十年前在緬甸發展南 洋珍珠養殖業，近年終見滿意成果。 「目前，市場上8至10毫米的南洋金 「從事養殖珍珠，前期部署及投資已 珠主要銷往日本，除了因為日本消費 花上六至七年時間。約五年前起首批 者偏好精緻小巧的首飾外，從展覽 珍珠收成，經過不斷累積經驗改進， 會可見，內地買家都集中往日本珍珠 去年收成的珍珠無論在皮光及色澤等 商的展位選購珍珠，加上內地旅客訪 質量方面都有顯著提升。」 日數目增加，他們到日本選購珍珠首 飾，也帶起了當地的零售市場。」 是次拍賣會成績斐然，也引證了該 公司出品的珍珠在質量上得到業界 該公司舉辦的拍賣會，買家佔七成來 的肯定。他坦然，珍珠市場未來的 自日本，其餘主要是本地及內地的珍 發展趨勢仍將取決於中國消費者的 拍賣會內的南洋金珠幾近售罄 珠批發商。「我們只邀請專業的珍珠 品味及要求。

58 亞洲珠寶︱珍珠特刊

公司專訪

魅力飾：專注產品開發

業調整期亦是有實力的企業「修煉內工」的時候。深圳市魅力飾珠寶首飾 行有限公司董事長涂興財表示，2016年公司的重點計劃便是加強產品開發、 提升設計團隊實力，並且針對九十後消費群推出更多設計時尚、清新的款式。

瞄準年青消費群 儘管去年下半年開始市場整體情況轉走下坡，但涂先生相信今年內地珍珠市場的 表現還是樂觀的。「除了我們多年來的核心產品，魅力飾今年也推出了多個全新 設計的珍珠飾品，針對九十後的年青消費群，迎合講究時尚及潮流的客戶需求； 著力於產品創新、專注製造具差異化的產品。」他表示，年青消費群對產品的欣 賞水平較高，他們看重款式的獨特性。反之，高端消費群講究華麗、具收藏性及 投資價值。

魅力飾本年度推出的產品將走精巧細緻的簡約路線，因應目前市場上對較細顆珍 珠的需求趨強，旗下開發的新產品亦集中於適合9至13毫米的珍珠；有別於過往 內地市場偏好13毫米或以上、款式豪華的珍珠飾品。「這些產品更貼近一般消費 者的需求和適合日常佩戴，真正面向用家市場。」

據悉，魅力飾每月均開發300至500件新產品。涂先生坦然開發成本及壓力 也相當大。「國外的企業或知名品牌的主打產品都走系列化，他們款 式、品種不多，但每件產品的銷量大、也可以打造成長青款式銷售 好幾年。但在內地市場，情況卻截然不同，內地客戶都追求款式 多、每月均會推出新品；故此我們也要配合客戶的要求每月推 出大量新款。」

在珠寶市場新常態下，涂先生強調專注產品開發、謹慎投資是 魅力飾今年的發展路向。「從多項經濟指標反映，內地市場仍處 於下坡，但畢竟有著龐大的人口支撐消費市場，故此未來前景及 發展潛力仍是被看好的。」

60 亞洲珠寶︱珍珠特刊

公司專訪

龍之珍珠：建立品牌核心競爭力

體驗消費到引導消費，經過數年間的發展，深圳龍之 從珍珠有限公司成功走出了以品質、設計、時尚及專業 為核心競爭力的品牌路線。

龍之珍珠董事長蔡文江指出，要將珍珠飾品廣泛帶入消費市場， 必然需要一段時間。但隨著互聯網推動信息快速傳遞、微商興起令 產品迅速滲透市場，大大提升了珍珠市場的覆蓋層面。「無可否認， 過去一年即使內地經歷宏觀經濟調整，然而珍珠市場表現在眾多珠寶 品類仍算是不俗。可是，內地仍然欠缺具號召力、能夠走上國際舞台的 珍珠品牌。」他期望，龍之珍珠能夠憑藉專注、專業的服務態度，得到 廣大市場的認可，在傳播品牌價值方面有更 大的發揮。

龍之珍珠去年憑作品《龍之– 小 鯉魚》海水珍珠飾品，獲得由深 圳市版權協會舉辦的第四屆深圳版權 金獎。「獎項的評審委員由學者、行業 專家及專業機構代表組成，他們肯定了我 們在設計、工藝、原創理念及鼓勵創新 等各方面的成果。」

開發特色、原創產品 蔡先生表示，全新推出的「巴洛克的春天」 系列，以不規則型的keshi珍珠作主題，回應市 場對獨特產品的需求，同時做到引導消費的目標。「此外，龍之 珍珠亦會專注為客戶搜購特別質量的珍珠，例如呈櫻花粉紅的頂 級海水珍珠、佔總產量不足一成的灰色海水珍珠、優質的緬甸金珠 等。」此外，龍之珍珠亦貫徹一直以來開發原創產品的方針，除了 年度主題系列外，亦會因應不同節慶推出特別精品。

珍珠價格過去數年均錄得顯著增幅，蔡先生認為升勢仍會持續，尤其 是品質好的珍珠，但將會是平穩的幅度推進；而中低檔次的珍珠，價 格則預料會維持現水平。

龍之珍珠目前正籌措一個全新項目，並已連繫 國內權威機構合作，預期於短期內正式出台。 該項目將為業界打造一個專業平台，為內地珍珠 行業整體的專業水平出一分力。

《龍之 – 小鯉魚》海水珍珠飾品，獲2015年 深圳版權金獎

62 亞洲珠寶︱珍珠特刊

公司專訪

珍珠商拓內地市場尋找出路

戶對產品的要求越來越精細，卻造就一些中、 客小企業能夠憑藉貼心服務及靈活性提供更符合 要求的個性化服務。

成立不足十年的創高珠寶有限公司 (珍珠)，專營各類 優質珍珠的批發業務，包括大溪地黑珍珠、 澳大利亞 等地的南洋珍珠及中國淡水珠，主要服務本地的零售 商及終端客戶。負責人區恩傑表示：「我們會透過參 與不同地方舉行的珍珠拍賣會，為客戶搜羅性價比高 的產品。」

「過去數年，南洋金珠被內地買家熱烈追捧，價格 大幅飆升；過去一年，這股升勢轉趨平穩。與此同 時，內地買家繼續渴求金珠之餘，對大溪地珍珠的 興趣亦轉濃，從8至9毫米的黑珍珠入手，慢慢開始 追求較大顆、品質上乘，甚至是18毫米或以上的罕 有珍品。」

他坦然，由於買家各有喜好，故此必須具備敏銳的市 場觸覺、緊貼市場走勢和捕捉客戶的喜好及需要。 「我們目前的業務有六至七成來自內地客戶，受內地 經濟表現影響，他們選購的意慾亦趨審慎，講究精明 消費，最看重是否物有所值。」

毫無疑問，珍珠商的目光都會集中內地市場。區先生 期望內地市場能夠逐步回升、買家重拾購買力，否則 本地珍珠商的經營狀況仍見困難。「創高珠寶未來亦 會加強在內地的推廣宣傳工作，積極參與在內地舉辦 的大型珠寶展覽會，冀為業務發展尋找更大發展空間 及出路；另外亦正計劃拓展成品首飾業務。」

區先生察覺到香港珍珠業近年面對人才流失的情況 越見嚴重。「在技術層面上，很多早年投身珠寶業 的資深工匠都屆退休之年，而近年新入行的年青人 卻越來越少，加上早年大部分香港廠商把工廠北移 內地發展，本地技術人材有青黃不接的情況。有見 及此，我們正籌組一項本地計劃，集合一群資深工 匠建立自家工場，同時可協助培訓本地人才。」他 表示，日後推出的成品首飾會堅持香港製造，既可 節省物流時間及成本、亦利於與工場直接溝通。成 品首飾價格會在500至600美元水平，主要針對中 低價市場。

64 亞洲珠寶︱珍珠特刊

公司專訪

追求產品獨特性

濟表現影響高端消費品的需求，然而理性消費抬頭以及追求時尚、獨 經特設計的風氣，令大眾化的飾品更具發展發間，產品設計的要求及款 式更見多元化。

聯興珍珠首飾有限公司看準市場形勢，今年銳意在產品設計上加添故事性的 元素，開發更具代表性的拳頭產品、為客戶創造話題性及銷售亮點。

「珠寶市場回歸理性消費，不再倚重送禮市場。購買珠寶作日常佩戴的消費 者已經成為市場主流，他們追求更多變、更有主題性的產品。」該公司董事 吳美映認為，購買需要由送禮轉變為自用，公司也緊貼市場需要轉變策略， 從一直專注大批量生產，現在會同時發展少批量、價格適中的精品，並且為 設計元素建立故事性或獨特的題材，甚至為客戶構思推廣宣傳點子，由產品 選材、製造、質量、設計以至終端銷售均作全盤考量。「為產品賦予更大的 價值，令珍珠飾品更具吸引力。」

綜觀2016年形勢，他相信在美元強勢下，歐美買家的購買力得以回升。 「整體經濟相信仍會沈寂、持平，市場焦點將會集中於大眾化消費群。而 買家進貨的速度亦從過往的季度轉至每月甚至每兩星期下單，以盡量減低 庫存量及風險。作為生產商，無疑壓力更大。」

吳先生坦然，客戶對市場的走向顯得毫無頭緒，作為珍珠生產商自覺要為 整個產業鏈注入新動力，藉一些新元素從源頭起帶動作用。事實上，聯興 一直以雙頭馬車的方式專營珍珠批發及成品首飾，今年在成品方面期望以 新的產品打入內地市場，藉獨特設計及相宜的價格吸納白領消費層。例如 開發一些不規則型珍珠(baroque)的精品、以無核珍珠(keshi)來創造更富 立體感和層次的設計，同時產品價位上亦更易被市場接受。

現時，聯興的珍珠銷售量近80%為南洋珍珠、大溪地珍珠及海水珍珠， 淡水珍珠則佔兩成至三成。「我們會嘗試把不同顏色、物種的珍 珠配搭，碰撞出更玩味、更具新鮮感的飾品。批發價在一萬 多港元的飾品會是市場可接受的範圍，也是針對當前 真正主流消費群的需要。」

66 亞洲珠寶︱珍珠特刊

公司專訪

珍珠領軍企業 聚焦教育推廣

際知名澳大利亞南洋珍珠生產商Paspaley Pearling Company回顧去年珍珠行業的發展及 國展望未來的工作計劃。執行董事Peter Bracher與《亞洲珠寶》分享Paspaley在2016的策略 部署，並探討在當前競爭激烈的奢侈品市場中，投放資源教育消費者的重要性。

數碼化項目 儘管全球經濟正值淡風、消費市場表現疲弱，Bracher先生卻表示，在需求及價格持續穩定 下，2015年整體來說仍是令人滿意的一年。「去年12月佳士得珠寶拍賣會的佳績，為2015年劃上 圓滿的終結。我們有三件珍珠飾品供拍賣，包括兩組鑲有天然珍珠及一組鑲有養殖珍珠的珠寶。其 中由Etcetera為Paspaley設計的天然珍珠及鑽石吊墜項鏈以26萬美元成交，價格超出最高拍品估 值。」

要數算Paspaley在過去一年的成就，最大亮點莫過於其透過電子平台在消費者教育工作所作出的顯 著成果。「從2015年起，我們首次向所有參與Paspaley珍珠拍賣會的業者開通網絡平台，把所有 的資訊及拍賣結果上載於網頁內，讓客戶接收所需資料。」

該公司亦開設了Instagram官方帳號，希望吸引公眾關注並藉此渠道發放教育性資訊。「下一步我 們計劃針對內地消費者，開通微信帳號，推廣澳大利亞南洋珍珠，讓內地的消費者認識到澳大利亞 南洋珍珠的稀有及價值所在。」

消費者教育 談到南洋珍珠本年度的市場情況，Bracher先生表示在可見的將來，珍珠的產量及價格將能保持穩 定。「各類品質的南洋珍珠大部分在2013年至2015年上半年都錄得價格上升。部分商品如鑽石及黃 金的價格去年則出現下跌，但相對南洋珍珠的價格卻能保持平穩。在沒有任何巨大的經濟事故或匯 率危機影響下，應該沒有任何原因會令珍珠市場出現顯著下挫。」

位於澳大利亞西北部的寧靜海港，正是孕育Paspaley南洋珍珠的地方。本文圖片由Paspaley提供

68 亞洲珠寶︱珍珠特刊 公司專訪

消費者教育工作仍將是珍珠行業未來數年的 主要挑戰。「教育公眾去認識不同類型的珍 珠相信是行業未來面對的最重要課題。我們 深信，要帶動不同種類珍珠的需求，必需讓消 費者清楚掌握各種珍珠的特性和差異。不少終 端消費者對於天然珍珠、養殖珍珠、經漂染的珍 珠、海水珍珠及淡水珍珠仍混淆不 佳士得去年底拍賣的其中一件 清。而事實上各類珍珠都有其特別 Paspaley珍珠飾品 之處，假若消費者無法區別出來， 便不會明白其價值所在，也難以選 購到最合適的珍珠，甚至會轉移投資和購買其他產品。」

可持續生產的寶石 Paspaley在環境管理工作上一直處於領導位置，近期正通過國際性 權威海洋保護組織的評核。「奉行道德生產的原則一直是Paspaley 優先處理的工作，而消費者也越來越看重企業的社會責任。獲國際 認可機構頒發證書可以讓消費者明白到，購買澳大利亞出產的南洋 珍珠是符合道德及環境責任的選擇。」

「眾所周知，清澈寧靜的海港是孕育優質珍珠的必須條件。在澳大 利亞珍珠捕撈業的嚴格規管下，我們養殖珍珠的水域，海床水質較 一個世紀之前更加健康。有海洋研究亦引證到，我們的珍珠養殖業 對海洋生態環境帶來良好的影響。」

在2015年，一支曾獲獎無數的攝製隊花了六個月的時間，把 Paspaley的日常營運拍成片長一小時的紀錄片，以呈現澳大利亞 珍珠養殖業的面貌。影片預期於今年內作全球 首播，Bracher先生期望，該影片能夠喚起全 球的關注。

2016年，Paspaley將開展另一項大型的市 場推廣項目，策略性地向全球主要市場的 珍珠批發商推廣澳大利亞南洋珍 珠。Paspaley更聘請了一家獲獎的廣 告宣傳機構協助構思和執行有關活動， 期望與全球各地的主要市場建立更有效 的溝通。

亞洲珠寶︱珍珠特刊 69 公司專訪

「壹會所」是壹海珠為東方貴族傾心打造的高檔會所，為尊貴的VIP客戶提供貼心全面的產品體驗服務

珍珠文化珠寶的商業機遇

端海水珍珠首飾近年在國內 高市場迅速崛起，很自然的填 「壹」乃萬物之源。凡從壹者，視為「尊貴」、「高貴」也。 補了因翡翠、彩寶價格的虛高造成的 「海」彰顯了女性的博納、神秘。 高端珠寶市場損失。尤其是今年珍珠 消費熱潮的興起，直接刺激了高端群 「珠」東方貴族女性，如蚌內的珍珠，汲取天地 體的消費欲望，從而轉移了他們的購 靈氣，散發著迷人的魅力。 買視線。

於2013年創立的壹海珠，以融合東 壹海珠品牌總監金濤表示，壹海珠品 達和提升氣質。 方傳統文化精粹與西方設計理念，專 牌旨在通過對珍珠文化、海洋文化的 隨著消費風向的 注打造高端海水珍珠產品。壹海珠根 理解與闡釋，為人們提供一個近距離 轉變，首飾的氣 植傳統珍珠文化和中國「壹」文化之 接觸、親近、感知，進而愛上優雅海 質表現功能將逐步超 上，結合海水珍珠的特性，傳遞東方 水珍珠的機會。 越單純的裝飾作用 「壹」文化的專注、尊貴和底蘊的品 壹海珠出品的珍珠飾 和簡單保值作用， 品，彩藍色調的琺瑯 牌核心價值。 壹海珠在深圳擁有壹會所平台，服務 珍珠以它特有的圓 完美演繹出海洋的氣色 於高端女性客戶群體，不僅為她們提 潤外形、柔亮的光 供設計獨特的高品質海水珍珠產品， 澤、優雅高貴的氣 同時還提供貼心全面的產品體驗及增 質，是女性們心目中的必然之選。」 值服務，包括產品定制及精品鑒賞體 驗。為滿足消費群體在珍珠珠寶的日 金先生認為，中國珠寶市場從產品競 益增長和變化的需求與擴大品牌的影 爭、價格競爭逐漸升級為品牌競爭。 響力，壹海珠於2015年開啟零售業 黃金、白銀以及鉑金的銷售將持續增 務，未來將銳意在華北、華南、華 長，但是由於產能過剩，這類產品的 中、西南一線城市拓展高端購物中心 銷售利潤將大幅度下降，裸鑽和鑲嵌 管道，拓展網路行銷管道。 類產品的需求穩步提升，尤其是珍珠 鑲嵌飾品的需求將不斷放大，價格處 「我國珍珠產品的消費逐年呈30% 於上升通道，理念創新，產品創新， 以上的速度增加，越來越多的愛美 模式創新，管道創新將成為主流並較 壹海珠品牌總監金濤 女性在首飾佩戴上開始轉向自我表 傳統模式獲得市場先機。

70 亞洲珠寶︱珍珠特刊 珠寶鑑賞

意大利著名品牌Buccellati的「Ghianda」 套裝，以白金的葉形及玫瑰切割鑽石襯托11 顆罕有南洋珍珠

與海洋近距離接觸

珍珠與女性，彷彿有著密不可分的關係。珍珠自然散發出來的貴氣，擅於塑造典雅或個性強 烈的形象；隨性配搭，活潑多變，輕易流露出一股令人目不轉睛魅力。

香奈兒(Chanel)的異形珍珠戒指 澳大利亞南洋珍珠品牌Paspaley出品的 著名珍珠品牌Mikimoto的海螺珠戒指 18K金南洋珍珠耳環，鑲有兩顆各13毫米的 珍珠，耳環長度可隨意調節

亞洲珠寶︱珍珠特刊 71 珠寶鑑賞

周生生La Pelle Petite 系列珍珠飾品以圓潤亮 澤的日本Akoya珍珠搭配18K紅色黃金，綴以 粉紅色藍寶石及鑽石

珍珠品牌Autore以世界各 地著名建築物為題創作品牌 本年的主打系列，包括北京 天壇、美國紐約摩天大樓及 法國巴黎艾菲爾鐵塔

深圳龍之珍珠有限公 司出品的akoya海水 珍珠吊墜 Anna Sui

72 亞洲珠寶︱珍珠特刊 珠寶鑑賞

以中國的鎖扣為設計藍本，象 徵如意吉祥。以鑽石、祖母 綠、冰種翡翠襯托38顆 10至12毫米的大 德國珍珠品牌 溪地珍珠。 Schoeffel出品的珍珠 Dawn Jewellery 鑲鑽戒指，採用色澤呈 (HK) Ltd出品 紫色的淡水珍珠配襯 玫瑰金

PIN (Hong Kong)Ltd 出品的坦桑石耳環，配 上南洋珍珠，令飾品更 顯華麗高貴

意大利品牌Giovanni Ferraris製作的鑽石耳 環，採用鈦金屬、玫瑰金、褐色鑽、巧克力 色大溪地珍珠及澳大利亞南洋金珠 Elie Saab

鑲有大溪地珍珠及 彩寶的雀鳥造型 胸針。Mousson Atelier出品

亞洲珠寶︱珍珠特刊 73 珠寶鑑賞

德國珠寶品牌Tamara Comolli推出一系列永不過 時的經典款式珍珠飾品， 珍珠鑲鑽耳環絕對是女士 們不可缺少的珠寶飾品

Yoko London出品的 珍珠鑲鑽耳環

梵克雅寶以海洋為主題的最新高級珠寶系列。通過材質的 混搭，Rivage Noir et Blanc手鐲重塑對比景致的多采多 姿。晶瑩白皙或呈深灰的養殖珍珠映襯綠松石、藍寶石及 祖母綠。珍珠的冠飾為凸圓形切割寶石，巧妙的設計讓扣 環不落痕跡，呈現手鐲完美的結構，並與手腕曲線相契合

以色列珠寶品牌YVEL 以keshi珍珠的不規則 形狀，表現大自然的純 真和美態。酷似珊瑚形 態的珍珠飾品，秉承

該品牌的創作理念： Monique Lhuillier 把藝術品化作可佩戴 的珠寶

Gellner出品的戒指及手鏈，以 珍珠的光澤與鑽石的閃爍構成對 比。大溪地珍珠、褐色鑽及18K 玫瑰金塑造近似色系，予人暖 和、時尚的效果

74 亞洲珠寶︱珍珠特刊