RUSSIAN LOVE COSTUME DESIGNER JACQUELINE DURRAN INJECTS SERIOUS INTO THE FILM ADAPTATION OF COMING UP ACES “ANNA KARENINA.” PAGE 10 ACE AWARDS HONOR DESIGNERS AND BRANDS. PAGE 3

HE SAID, SHE SAID Tor y Fires Back In Burch Lawsuit By ALEXANDRA STEIGRAD

NEW YORK — Battle Burch is turning into a brawl. Tory Burch pushed back at her ex-husband Christopher Burch, fi ling an answer and counter- claims to his Oct. 2 lawsuit. In her court papers fi led WEDNESDAY, NOVEMBER 7, 2012 ■ WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY ■ 3.00 Monday evening, Burch alleges that her former hus- WWD band purposely gleaned information about her name- sake brand in order to create the “knock-off ” retail concept C. Wonder. That claim is a point of contention between the Burches — who each own 28.3 percent of Tory Burch LLC. Chris Burch sued his former wife in Delaware state court, alleging that she kept him from pursuing other business ventures as he tried to sell his stake in Tory Burch, the company the duo created in 2003. While the back and forth won’t subside anytime soon, the case is on an expedited track. Lawyers for Chris Burch were granted that request when they ar- gued last Thursday before presiding Judge Leo Strine. This will likely bring both sides back to court for a trial in early April. (For more on that hearing, see sidebar.) In his , Burch — who also named board mem- bers Glen Senk, Eduardo Holschneider, John Hamlin, Ernesto Zepeda, María Asunción Aramburuzabala Larregui and Isla Cora — claims breach of contract Sheer and tortious interference with the sale process and with business relationships with suppliers. Tory Burch denied those claims in her response and said in court papers that her ex-husband “only has himself to blame” for the fact that a potential sale of his shares fell through. The deal, which was dubbed Project Amethyst, Sighted “died” because Chris Burch, a director of Tory Burch, created C. Wonder last year, an act that “violated” his Designers are showing some skin for spring in contractual and fi duciary duties, Tory Burch claimed subtle yet alluring ways. Take, for instance, Cushnie in her court papers. According to Tory Burch’s legal team, the three et Ochs’ embroidered blouse and principal bidders in Project Amethyst made it a skirt with a silk panel, here with Manolo condition that Chris Burch enter into a settlement SEE PAGE 12 Blahnik shoes. For more, see pages 4 and 5. Italians Eye IPOs

By LUISA ZARGANI

MILAN — Global markets may be gyrating, but firms continue to see an initial public offering in their future. Moncler, which shelved an IPO last year; Pianoforte Holding, which comprises accessories brand Carpisa, innerwear and beachwear brand Yamamay, and swimwear brand Jaked, and men’s wear group all confi rmed they con- tinue to eye a stock-market fl otation down the road. Executives from those fi rms were among the speakers at the Pambianco Conference Tuesday at the Stock Exchange, who also included François-Henri Pinault, chairman and chief executive offi cer of PPR. Remo Ruffi ni, chairman and ceo of Moncler, said the “Bourse has a great value,” in terms of visibility of the brand and recruitment of human resources, for example. “A listing remains our goal,” he said. WOODS LYNDSEY ASSISTANT: FASHION NYC; SALON MONTGOMERY USING BOBBI BROWN COSMETICS FOR VARTALI Asked on the sidelines of the conference about

OLAN the future of the group’s other brands, which include Marina Yachting, Henry Cotton’s and , Ruffi ni said they are also “performing well,” and dif- ferent options are under study to “create value, per- haps two companies or one within the other.” AND MAKEUP BY Francesco Pinto, ceo of Pianoforte Holding, said the stock exchange has been a goal for the group for a long time. “First we had to be strong at home to be cred- ible outside,” said Pinto. currently accounts for 85 percent of sales, which are expected to reach 291 million euros, or $372.6 million at current exchange, PHOTO BY KYLE ERICKSEN; STYLED BY BOBBI QUEEN MODEL: TESSA/FORD; HAIR SEE PAGE 6 2 WWD WEDNESDAY, NOVEMBER 7, 2012

Retail Earnings Season Heats Up THE BRIEFING BOX “Gap has done well and Macy’s Results exclude special items IN TODAY’S WWD By EVAN CLARK has done well, but meanwhile, such as restructuring charges J.C. Penney’s is just giving away and represent the current ana- WITH AMERICA’S election fever share,” Driscoll noted. “In the ag- lyst consensus estimates report- hopefully ready to cool today, re- gregate, I don’t think [the overall ed by Yahoo Finance. tail’s financial set can get down landscape] is that great.” Matthew Boss, a broadlines to business. As quarterly results roll out retail analyst at J.P. Morgan, But business has just been OK. over the next two weeks, it will said there aren’t likely to be Macy’s Inc. kicks off what’s become clear who is gaining the any big third-quarter surprises expected to be a relatively blah most traction with shoppers. and that there was a quiet con- third-quarter earnings season Wall Street and retail stocks fidence building about the holi- today. The department store has both gained ground Tuesday as day season. already characterized the period Americans headed to the polls to “Inventories as a whole are as “solid” and said sales rose 3.8 vote on who will lead the country more or less in line and clean in percent — although analysts proj- for the next four years. the channel and that could be a ect Macy’s earnings fell 9.4 percent Among the gainers were com- positive for margins in the fourth to 29 cents a share. panies set to release results soon, quarter,” Boss said. Taking the longer view, Macy’s including Gap Inc., up 1.6 per- Arnold Aronson, managing di- is generally seen as one of the cent to $35.94; Nordstrom Inc., 1 rector of retail strategies at Kurt SHARRON LOVELL winners in a retail landscape percent to $58.20; J.C. Penney Co. Salmon, said retailers overall A trendy look in ’s Sanlitun Village. where the gulf between the lead- Inc., 0.8 percent to $23.53, and have held up pretty well consid- PHOTO BY ers and the laggards is widening Macy’s, 0.5 percent to $41.38. ering the still-high rate of unem- as consumers pick and choose Gap has been on a tear lately, ployment, volatile gasoline pric- Tory Burch pushed back at her ex-husband Christopher their purchases carefully. after a prolonged slump. Analysts es and political gridlock. Burch, filing an answer and counterclaims to his Oct. 2 “There are a few things that project the firm’s third-quarter Aronson said there would be a lawsuit Monday evening. PAGE 1 are good for the consumer, confi- earnings per share jumped 60.5 chance for consumers to refocus dence is improving, but it’s not off percent to 61 cents. Nordstrom after the election. According to speakers at the Pambianco Conference to the races,” said Marie Driscoll, is also gaining ground, with earn- “We’re still a consumptive so- Tuesday, Italian fashion firms continue to see an initial public a retail consultant. “We’re going to ings expected to rise 22 percent ciety,” he said. “There are a lot of offering in their future. PAGE 1 see modest opportunity for margin to 72 cents a share. people who might feel they have expansion on lower input costs On the other end of the spec- deprived themselves. The talk L’Oréal’s third-quarter sales rose 11.8 percent in the face of [such as cotton], but top line, not trum, Penney’s, which is revamp- will be, ‘What are you shopping a slowdown in Asia and the travel-retail channel. PAGE 3 so strong. It’s pretty promotional ing as a specialty department store, for?’ and ‘What’s the hottest?’ out there.” is expected to post quarterly losses and ‘Who has the best prices?’ Retail continues to be a mar- of 5 cents a share, down from earn- The conditions are going to be The Komar company has signed a letter of intent to acquire PAGE 3 ket-share war. ings of 11 cents a year earlier. slowly but steadily improving.” Le Mystère, an upscale foundations brand.

Joseph R. Gromek, former president and chief executive officer of Warnaco Group Inc., has been named chairman of The New School. PAGE 3 IAG in Deal to Buy HMX’s Coppley Corp. relieved to find its white knight. Among the chief complaints Nordstrom will open CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund pop-up By JEAN E. PALMIERI “This is a very happy day for us is that the union contract is not shops in six locations around the country this spring. PAGE 6 and VICKI M. YOUNG and our employees,” he said. “It identified in the bid as an ob- had been an emotional roller ligation to be assumed by the Neiman Marcus will grow its distribution internationally to INDIVIDUALIZED APPAREL coaster. But IAG has a similar acquirer. More specifically, the 100 countries through a partnership with FiftyOne Global Group on Tuesday said it has culture and thinking — they get union noted that the licensee, the Ecommerce. PAGE 6 signed a definitive agreement custom, and they also value rela- Williams-controlled entity, “may to purchase substantially all tionships with retailers. We’re pri- offer” employment to union work- Grupo M has taken the trade provisions afforded companies the assets of Coppley Corp., the marily a specialty-store operation.” ers, leaving open the possibility that produce in Haiti well beyond their original intent. PAGE 8 Canadian custom clothing manu- Jones said Coppley’s business that the operating business might facturer owned by the bankrupt is 40 percent custom, 40 percent exercise its option to decline em- Galeries Lafayette opted for pachyderm power on Tuesday HMX Group. off-the-rack and 20 percent in- ployment to existing factory work- to flip the switch on its Christmas display. PAGE 9 According to court papers, the stock and its ability to turn around ers covered by the union contract. purchase price was $3.5 million and a custom garment in seven days is Since the IP assets are being the agreement is subject to court “our DNA. Coppley has produced separated from the operating busi- Carine Roitfeld, the global fashion director of Harper’s approval in the U.S. and Canada. tailored clothing continuously ness under the proposed deal, the Bazaar appeared Monday night for a Q&A at the French The privately held IAG, union argued that if the IP owner Institute Alliance Française. PAGE 9 which owns Oxxford Clothing, and the operating unit fail to agree H. Freeman, Corbin, Tom James, on a licensing agreement, those ex- The New York social set seemed slightly back to normal on Gitman, Individualized Shirts and isting factory jobs can be licensed Monday night at the Ziegfeld Theater for a screening of the $3.5M PAGE 10 the Holland & Sherry busi- to another group not covered by latest James Bond film, “Skyfall,” ness, among others, has built its PURCHASE PRICE, ACCORDING the union agreement. However, business on custom apparel pro- according to Williams, “The oper- TO COURT PAPERS. Tom Ford has tapped Jerome Cheung as chief executive duction and direct selling. It owns ating company that will be set up officer of Tom Ford Asia Pacific. PAGE 11 seven factories in the U.S. and will be assuming all the union col- another in Chile and boasts that it since 1883. We are proud of our lective bargaining agreements and ON WWD.COM is the “largest purveyor of luxury Made in Canada heritage. This we’ll be operating both factories in men’s apparel still manufacturing arrangement will provide us the Chicago and Rochester.” in America.” Its volume is estimat- expertise and financing to restore The final hurdle that Workers THEY ARE WEARING: A hub of trendiness, Beijing’s ed at about $300 million, not count- the Coppley business.” United raised is that the structure Sanlitun Village is a prime example of the progressive ing the Tom James retail business. While the sale of Coppley of the proposal has doomed the fashion statement that’s sweeping parts of China. “Coppley has a tremendous - sorts out one issue in the bank- production component of the busi- For more photos, see WWD.com/fashion-news. utation in the marketplace,” said ruptcy of HMX, Workers United, ness. Its position in court papers IAG president and chairman Joe the union representing fac- was that a minimum royalty fee of Blair. “They have worked diligent- tory employees for the group, $8.5 million for years one and two, TO E-MAIL REPORTERS AND EDITORS AT WWD, THE ADDRESS IS [email protected], USING THE INDIVIDUAL’S NAME. ly to build great loyalty from their isn’t happy with the “stalking followed by a $9.5 million fee in WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. customers both in Canada and the horse” proposal to sell intellec- subsequent years, suggested that COPYRIGHT ©2012 FAIRCHILD FASHION MEDIA. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. U.S. We have admired them for tual property assets to Authentic to meet the royalty payments the VOLUME 204, NO. 96. WEDNESDAY, NOVEMBER 7, 2012. WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional issue in May, June, October and December, and two additional issues years as a worthy competitor and Brands Group and have the Doug operating unit will likely look for in February, March, April, August, September and November) by Fairchild Fashion Media, which is a division of Advance we are excited to have them join Williams-controlled entity run cost savings that hurt union work- Magazine Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by Condé Nast: S.I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, Chief Executive Officer; Robert A. Sauerberg Jr., President; John W. Bellando, our IAG team of companies.” the operations. Williams is the ers, whether from “outsourcing to Chief Operating Officer & Chief Financial Officer; Jill Bright, Chief Administrative Officer. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY, Blair said Warwick Jones, ex- chief executive officer of HMX. low-wage foreign producers or re- and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 886549096-RT0001. Canada Post: return undeliverable Canadian addresses to P. O . Box 503, RPO West Beaver ecutive chairman of Coppley, will Last week, lawyers for the ductions in wages and benefits in Cre, Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P. O . Box 15008, North remain on board along with the union filed an objection to the the production facilities.” Hollywood, CA 91615 5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WWD, P. O . Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008, call 800-289-0273, or visit www.subnow.com/wd. company’s entire 400-person man- proposed bid in Manhattan bank- HMX on Monday received bank- Please give both new and old addresses as printed on most recent label. For New York Hand Delivery Service address changes or agement and factory team. “We’re ruptcy court, claiming that the ruptcy court approval on its bid- inquiries, please contact Mitchell’s NY at 1-800-662-2275, option 7. Subscribers: If the Post Office alerts us that your magazine not making any changes to the proposal is “flawed because it ding procedures for the auction is undeliverable, we have no further obligation unless we receive a corrected address within one year. If during your subscription term or up to one year after the magazine becomes undeliverable, you are ever dissatisfied with your subscription, let us know. business,” he said. “It’s well run, would breach critical worker that could bring a better offer than You will receive a full refund on all unmailed issues. First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt it was just lacking capital.” The job protection provisions” in the the one on the table from Authentic of order. Address all editorial, business, and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions requests, please call 212-630-5656 or fax the request to 212-630-5883. For all request factory in Hamilton, Ontario, will existing union contract for the Brands Group. Sources this week for reprints of articles please contact The YGS Group at [email protected], or call 800-501-9571. Visit us online at be retained. “We are factory peo- Rochester and Chicago plants. said the two parties are in the midst www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild Fashion Media magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that ple,” Blair said. “We are the last Union workers at all three facto- of negotiating the license agreement we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information, please advise us at of a vanishing breed, but we make ries, including the Coppley fac- and one change is an agreement P. O . Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS O F, OR FOR DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED it work. The custom and luxury tory, comprise a total annual pay- that allows for four 10-year terms in- ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER business is quite good and all of roll of $21.5 million owed by HMX stead of the proposed three five-year UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY WOMEN’S WEAR our factories are doing well.” under the collective bargaining terms that were originally filed with DAILY IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY A Jones said the Coppley team is agreement, court papers said. the bankruptcy court last month. SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE. WWD wednesday, november 7, 2012 3 WWD.COM Beauty Beat The New School Elects L’Oréal Q3 Sales Rise 11.8 Percent Joseph Gromek Chairman percent) stayed in negative ter- fragrances La vie est belle from the new School board during By JennIFer WeIL ritory,” said andrew Wood, an Lancôme and Manifesto from By LISa LoCKWooD a transformative time for the analyst at Sanford C. Bernstein yves Saint Laurent. 94-year-old university. David — amid a slowdown in & Co., in a research note. “north as for the Professional neW yorK — Joseph r. Van Zandt, who in 2011 became asia and the travel-retail chan- america remained L’oréal’s star Products division, he said, “We gromek, former president and the school’s eighth president, nel, L’oréal’s third-quarter sales performer (+7.1 percent).” believe that the next quarter will chief executive officer of Warnaco has expressed a vision for rose 11.8 percent year-on-year. also on a like-for-like basis, be better for us” and that the third group Inc., has been named the school that focuses on its the French beauty giant’s like- the company’s Consumer quarter “was a low point.” chairman of the new School. strengths in design and social for-like revenue gain was 4.6 per- Products division’s sales grew 4.9 regarding the beauty indus- He succeeds Michael J. sciences. the university is start- cent to 5.52 billion euros, or $6.91 percent in the third quarter. Its try at large, agon said: “We are Johnston, who was elected ing new degree programs and billion at average exchange, in the active Cosmetics division’s reve- quite confident for the evolution chair in 2009. interdisciplinary study options three months ended Sept. 30. nues increased 5.6 percent, while of the market.” He explained it’s gromek became a trustee designed to equip graduates for this marked a sequential de- the Body Shop and Dermatology growing between 3 percent and 4 at the new School in 2011 globalization, urbanization and celeration, compared with the sales rose 5.1 percent and 3.1 per- percent in the U.S., for instance, but began his leadership role technological innovation. 6.4 percent like-for-like com- cent, respectively. that in new emerging markets in 2005, when he was elected “Joe’s election as chair pany growth in the first quarter In the nine months ended Sept. such as Latin america it is “still to the Board of comes as an and 5.7 percent uptick in the 30, L’oréal registered revenues of very positive,” and “pretty solid” governors of Joseph R. opportune mo- second quarter of 2012. 16.73 billion euros, or $21.45 bil- in France, the U.K. and germany. Parsons the Gromek ment, because ke

“the most notable slow- lion at average exchange, up 10.9 agon added L’oréal contin- new School for A he values the in- down was in Professional (+0.1 percent. on a like-for-like basis, ues to believe the overall beauty Design. Working novative charac- hoem s

percent), which saw its lowest sales gained 5.6 percent. market should be pretty solid with Parsons’ teristics of the n quarterly growth since 2009. L’ oréal chairman and chief through the end of this year and dean and faculty, A new School,”

Luxe (+6.6 percent) also weak- executive officer Jean-Paul agon also in 2013. he connected All said Van Zandt. ened (down from +12 percent during a conference call tuesday He maintained L’oréal’s 2012 graduates to “Joe under- in the first quarter and +8.7 night confirmed that the fourth targets of outperforming the fashion industry stands the non- percent in the second quar- quarter will be “slightly better” cosmetics business, which the executives and photo by traditional role ter) and the new Markets (+8.1 than the third quarter for the com- company estimates will grow increased support of the new we have played in the past and percent) stayed in single digits pany, due to some of the recent approximately 4 percent world- School’s design-led curriculum. the clarity of vision required for the fifth quarter in the last well-received second-half prod- wide this year, and to achieve “I’ve always been interested to advance in the future.” six, while Western europe (-0.6 uct launches, such as the women’s growth in sales and profits. in kids and education. When I gromek served as president retired [from Warnaco group] and ceo of Warnaco from 2003 in February, part of my objec- to February of this year. He tive was to give back wherever took over the company when I could,” said gromek. it emerged from Chapter 11 Tax Settlement Weighs On IFF Quarterly “after more than a quarter and spearheaded its interna- InternatIonaL Flavors & sensus estimate of $1.04. the $72.4 gross margin to 42.5 percent of century in retail, I have in- tional expansion, transform- Fragrances Inc.’s third-quarter million tax settlement elevated the sales from 39 percent a year ago. sight into the demanding fields ing it from a domestic apparel profits surpassed analysts’ ex- company’s effective tax rate to 86.6 Doug tough, chairman and many new School students wholesaler into a retail-driven pectations despite the settle- percent of pretax income, up from chief executive officer of IFF, wish to enter. I see my role firm. Before that, he was presi- ment of a dispute with Spanish 26.9 percent in the 2011 period. noted that the fragrance com- helping prepare graduates to dent and ceo of Brooks Bros. authorities that raised its effec- Sales fell short of estimates, pounds business grew 9 percent withstand an unsteady econo- Inc., and earlier held senior tive tax rate and cut sharply into declining 0.7 percent to $709 in local currencies, with fine and my with the talent and mastery management posts at Saks the bottom line. million, from $713.8 million in beauty care up 10 percent and needed to succeed,” he added. Fifth avenue, Limited Brands, In the three months ended last year’s quarter, versus ana- functional fragrance up 8 percent. gromek takes the helm of Inc. and ann taylor Stores Inc. Sept. 30, the new york-based firm lysts’ estimates of $731.1 million “We saw strong momentum reported net income of $16.4 mil- in revenue. While flavor sales in every region and end-use cat- lion, or 20 cents a diluted share, were flat at $340.7 million, fra- egory, with the exception of fra- down 80.1 percent from $82.2 mil- grances declined 1.3 percent to grance ingredients,” tough said. Komar Acquires Le Mystère lion, or $1, in the year-ago quarter. $368.3 million. at constant cur- For the nine months, net in- the Le Mystère brand on an adjusted basis, omitting rency, sales increased 5 percent. come fell 23.3 percent to $186 By Karyn Monget gained national exposure in special items including the settle- the company reduced its million, or $2.26 a diluted share, 2006 when oprah Winfrey fea- ment, adjusted earnings per share cost of goods sold 6.4 percent, to as sales declined 0.1 percent to neW yorK — the Komar tured a bevy of the brand’s fash- were $1.08, 4 cents above the con- $407.4 million, helping to boost $2.14 billion. — ARNOLD J. KARR company has signed a letter of ion bras on her tV talk show. intent to acquire Le Mystère, regarding any changes at an upscale foundations brand. Le Mystère, Komar said, “Most Olivia Wilde and Constance Julianne the deal is expected to employees will continue with Vince Camuto White Moore close thursday, said Charles us but there’s sure to be some Komar, chairman and chief ex- back-office consolidation.” ecutive officer of the $750 mil- “We’ll be investing a lot of lion Komar firm. money and will be expand- a purchase price was not ing the brand into sleepwear available, but Le Mystère gen- and loungewear categories in erates wholesale annual sales 2014,” he said. ichner e of $25 million, according to in- the Komar company has

teve dustry sources. been on an acquisitions roll s the Le Mystère brand was for the past several years. Francisco Costa, Ulrich by created in 1991 by Michael Komar bought Biflex Grimm and Italo Zucchelli rabinowitz, a 46-year veteran of Intimates group LLC, a $60 photos the intimate apparel industry. million intimates specialist, in the brand is sold at august. In october 2010, the major department and spe- family-owned Komar acquired Industry Fetes ACE Awards Honorees cialty retailers in the U.S. the Carole Hochman Design were also moments of levity. Wearing head-to-toe Calvin such as nordstrom, neiman group, a sleepwear and foun- By aLeXanDra SteIgraD In her acceptance speech, Klein, Moore was on hand to Marcus, Saks Fifth avenue, dations concern that generates essence editor in chief Constance present Calvin Klein Collection’s Bloomingdale’s and Dillard’s, between $150 million and $299 neW yorK — the 16th an- White, who received the Marylou Francisco Costa, Italo Zucchelli and Harrods and John Lewis million annually. Hochman nual aCe awards Monday Luther Journalism award, noted: and Ulrich grimm with Designer in the U.K., as well as specialty produces and distributes inti- night had a muted tone in light “I have no power in my house, but of the year. boutiques worldwide. mates by on gossamer as well of the devastation of Hurricane I draw power from all of you.” a clotheshorse in her own Komar said that rabinowitz as several licensees, includ- Sandy, but still welcomed big that line drew some chuck- right, when asked if she ever sees will continue to run the Le ing oscar de la renta, Lauren names like Julianne Moore, les, but not as many as Vince a future in fashion for herself, Mystère business and the ralph Lauren, Betsey Johnson olivia Wilde, tika Sumpter, Camuto’s remarks when he Moore doubled over in laughter. showroom will remain located Intimates, Lilly Pulitzer, and Katrina Bowden, Victor Cruz snapped up the Visionary award. “no, no, no, I like to wear at 183 Madison avenue here. tommy Bahama sleepwear, and Kyle MacLachlan. “If you’re not happy, wheth- clothes, I don’t like to make “We’ve been working on this loungewear and boxers for accessories Council presi- er it’s a relationship, or what clothes,” she said. “I haven’t made for a long time and have been men. In December 2010, Komar dent Karen giberson set the you’re doing, just get out,” he anything since the seventh grade.” back and forth on this deal for bought the $100 million St. eve tone for the night, explaining said, smiling. “you have to do other award winners included the past several months,” said and St. eve Kids brands and that the event’s gift bag contents what you love.” theodora & Callum for Brand Komar. “It’s still a great brand assets from russell-newman would be donated to victims of Moments before, Camuto Launch, Fossil Inc. for Brand of and business, and it’s the sec- Inc. earlier, Komar purchased the storm through a partnership complimented the beauty of the year, american express for ond-best-selling [bra] brand at o’Bryan Bros. Inc., a $50 mil- with glam for good. the coun- award presenter Wilde, who Business excellence, assouline Harrods. they had a big bump lion specialist of warmwear by cil also made a donation to the took to the stage with “Born to for Influencer and Stella & Dot for in 2006 but sales have since Cuddl Duds, in May 2009. american red Cross. be Wild” playing. retail Innovation. additionally, remained consistent.…In this Komar’s portfolio includes Several presenters and award “It’s in my contract that [that C. Wonder took home Specialty environment it’s so hard to run licensed sleepwear by Donna winners also mentioned the song] has to play every time,” retailer of the year, while Camilla a business and have all of the Karan, DKny, ellen tracy, storm and its impact, but there the actress deadpanned. alves won the trendsetter prize. synergies in place.” eileen West and Kensie.

w07a003a;7.indd 3 11/6/12 6:26 PM 11062012182730 4 WWD WEDNESDAY, NOVEMBER 7, 2012

Son Jung Wan’s Saunder’s cotton Kaufman Franco’s sequined silk and silk organza and knit dress with jacquard dress. leather shift over a cotton and BCBG Max Azria leather miniskirt. insets. earrings. BCBG Max Azria Wanderluster shoes. earrings; Alexandre Birman shoes.

PHOTOS BY KYLE ERICKSEN; STYLED BY BOBBI QUEEN WWD WEDNESDAY, NOVEMBER 7, 2012 5 WWD.COM

Thakoon’s cotton, Naeem Khan’s Helmut Lang’s polyester and embroidered silk sheath. nylon dress edged nylon and Alexandre in pearl paillettes. viscose dress. Birman shoes. Wanderluster earrings; Alexandre Birman shoes.

TRANSPARENCY IS A HIGH PRIORITY FOR SPRING. IT’S REVEALING WOODS LYNDSEY ASSISTANT: FASHION NYC; SALON OLAN MONTGOMERY USING BOBBI BROWN COSMETICS FOR VARTALI ITSELF WITH SKIN- FLASHING INSETS AND HEMLINES, AS WELL AS LONG SHEER TUNICS OVER SHORTER SKIRTS. MODELS: TESSA AND ALINE/FORD; HAIR MAKEUP BY

6 WWD WEDNESDAY, NOVEMBER 7, 2012 WWD.COM

Italian IPOs Among Chatter at Pambianco Conference

{Continued from page one} Pinault spoke as employees of Fnac in 2012. For this reason, the next step is to Italia and trade unions, concerned about Pier Luigi build an international market and Pinto PPR’s spin-off of the struggling retailer of forecast an IPO between 2014 and 2015. books, music and home electronics, pro- Intesa Sanpaolo·· has a 10 percent stake tested in front of the Bourse. He praised in the group, which counts a total of 1,201 the craftsmanship that helps stores, of which 1,056 are franchised. make PPR “the most Italian of all the big Exports account for 92 percent of French groups.” Stefano Ricci’s sales, which last year to- “Made in Italy has nothing to do with nos- taled 57 million euros, or $79.2 million at talgia,” said Pinault, adding it is not about average exchange. China accounts for 27 “astute marketing,” but is, on the contrary, percent of sales. The company has been “part of a strategic orientation, it’s about investing in retailing and plans to have modernity and innovation. It is essential for 29 stores by the end of the year and 41 quality to preserve artisanal tradition.” units in 2013. Ceo Niccolò Ricci estimat- Pinault said four brands under the ed the company could list on the stock PPR umbrella — , , exchange in two years. and Sergio Rossi — account for 80 percent of the group’s sales and 90 per- cent of recurring operating income. His The luxury market has very speech came a day after PPR split with the designer of one of its other brands promising prospects ahead — Nicolas Ghesquière at Balenciaga. Pinault declined to answer questions of it, provided that all Made about the move, rushing out the door the François-Henri Pinault moment his speech was over to catch a in Italy brands stick to what plane back to Paris. In his speech, Pinault pointed to the makes them unique. challenges connected to the fact that Remo Ruffini — FRANÇOIS-HENRI PINAULT, PPR Italy’s economy relies on a web of small and medium-size, often family-owned, companies. “If these small businesses are Conversely, Pier Luigi Loro Piana, ceo weakened, if the new generation of ap- of textile and apparel group Loro Piana, prentices is missing, the whole edifice will conceded the company had thought about be weakened,” he said. the Bourse 13 years ago when it wanted to Earlier in the morning, Gaetano diversify in retail. “We found too many dif- Miccichè, general director of Intesa ferences between finance and industry, and Sanpaolo bank, said “the dimension” of ERIC/GAMMA VANDEVILLE the project fell through. We are not thinking Italy’s companies is the “main problem,” of going public now and we are not looking which does not allow them to invest PIANA BY at opening up to outside investors,” he said. heavily in logistics, ads and organization, Stefano Sassi, ceo of Valentino, said for example. the official closing of the sale of the label Pinault said he believes the devel- to Mayhoola for Investments,·· an invest- opment of Chinese, Indian or Brazilian ment vehicle backed by a private inves- luxury brands “is inevitable” and has tor group from Qatar, took place earlier “already started.” Not in all categories JOHN AQUINO; LORO in the day. He said the company expects and at the same speed, but he views the to close 2012 with a 25 percent increase craft of porcelain or jewelry making, and in revenues, reaching between 370 mil- working silk as leading to the birth of

lion and 380 million euros, or $473.8 mil- luxury brands in China, for example. RUFFINI PHOTO BY lion and $486.6 million. “We have no reason to worry about Asked to comment on the Marzotto fam- this change. The luxury market has very He confirmed that PPR “has the ambi- 20 and 30 percent,” said the executive. ily’s legal troubles connected to the sale of promising prospects ahead of it, provided tion, not the goal” to double sales of the Mario Boselli, head of the Italian Valentino to private equity fund Permira in that all Made in Italy brands stick to what group in 2020 to 24 billion euros, or $30.7 Chamber of Fashion, praised Pinault’s 2007, he said this has “nothing to do with makes them unique,” said Pinault. billion at current exchange. “We will ana- support of Italian production and re- the development of the company under Asked about potential acquisitions, lyze market by market, category by catego- marked on how Italian companies are fo- Permira and onwards.” He concluded that he said he was not after acquisitions per r y, and the acquisitions are more possible cused on selling outside the country. “It’s the fiscal pressure in Italy is an issue. “We se. “There must be a vision, each brand in the sportswear sector rather than in lux- a necessity to run towards foreign mar- can’t work to solve the problems of the has a precise role, and our brands never ur y, where the companies already part of kets, in proportion to the serious internal state,” said Sassi. overlap, each is different,” said Pinault. the group could register a growth between crisis,” he said. Nordstrom to Open Fashion Fund Pop-Ups Neiman’s Thinking Global Growth By LISA LOCKWOOD Neiman Marcus to expand its e-com- By DAVID MOIN merce capabilities, we can provide NORDSTROM WILL OPEN CFDA/Vogue an easier, more enjoyable way for

Fashion Fund pop-up shops in six loca- STEVE EICHNER NEIMAN MARCUS will grow its distri- international consumers to browse tions around the country this spring. bution internationally to 100 countries and buy products from the world’s top Underwriter of the initiative since 2006, CHINSEE through a partnership with FiftyOne designers,” said Michael DeSimone, Nordstrom will offer a selection of mer- PHOTO BY Global Ecommerce, a technology com- chief executive officer of FiftyOne chandise from each of the 10 finalists in GEORGE pany that helps retailers transact on- Global Ecommerce. “At FiftyOne, we the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund shops. BY line with customers abroad. combine our extensive knowledge of “We think that our customers will be Neiman’s move follows several global markets with real-time data to PHOTO excited to have access to the collections other retailers that are already bring- create an international e-commerce from these talented designers,” said Jeffrey Wes Gordon and Tabitha Simmons are two of the ing their Web offerings overseas solution that best our retailers’ Kalinsky, Nordstrom Inc. executive vice CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund finalists who will be by working with FiftyOne Global goals for growth and expansion.” president of designer and CFDA/Vogue included in the pop-up shops at Nordstrom. Ecommerce, including Barneys To encourage people abroad to Fashion Fund Selection Committee member. Simmons, and Wes Gordon. New York, Nordstrom, Macy’s, shop early for holiday gifts, Neiman’s The shops will open in February in five The CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund was estab- Bloomingdale’s and Saks Fifth is offering flat-rate shipping on all in- Nordstrom full-line locations including lished to help emerging American design tal- Avenue. The technology enables in- ternational purchases through Dec. 10. Seattle, San Francisco, Los Angeles (The ent. Since 2010, the winner has been award- ternational shoppers to complete or- Neiman’s previously said that it is Grove), Chicago and Dallas (Northport), as ed $300,000 and each of the two runners-up ders on the retailer’s Web site in their developing an e-commerce site with well as Nordstrom-owned Treasure & Bond has received $100,000. This year’s winners local currencies, using various pay- -based Glamour Sales on West Broadway in New York. The shops, will be revealed at a gala on Tuesday. The ment methods and without worrying Holding. The site is seen launching which will house fashion, accessories, jew- money is intended to further develop each about figuring out currency conver- before Chinese New Year. The Dallas- elry, sunglasses and shoes, will stay open designer’s business in areas such as market- sions or tariffs. based luxury chain invested $29.4 mil- until about May 1. ing, public relations, production and sales. “Neiman Marcus has stature as a lion in Glamour Sales Holding. The 2012 finalists are Andrea Lieberman Since its inception in 2003, the program has global fashion authority and our part- FiftyOne manages all aspects of (A.L.C.); Greg Armas (Assembly New York); granted $2.8 million to 21 design companies. nership with FiftyOne enables us to international orders, including multi- Sofia Sizzi (Giulietta); Justin Salguero, Daniel Steven Kolb, chief executive officer of the readily serve our international cus- currency pricing and payment process- Silberman and Alina Silberman (Illesteva); CFDA, said of the Nordstrom tie-up: “It is a tomers,” said John Koryl, president ing, landed cost calculation, customs Jennifer Fisher (Jennifer Fisher Jewelry); great opportunity for our 10 designers to have of Neiman Marcus Direct. clearance and brokerage, internation- Jennifer Meyer Maguire (Jennifer Meyer); a presence in-store with a major retailer, and “The enthusiasm for luxury brands al fraud management, international Max Osterweis and Erin Beatty (Suno); this will give their collections great exposure within the global marketplace is logistics orchestration and customer- Greg Chait (The Elder Statesman); Tabitha to a broader audience.” considerable, and by working with experience parity. YEARinfAshion ALL OF THE STYLE, SCANDAL, CELEBRITY AND BUSINESS OF 2012. PLUS EDITORS REVEAL THE WWD NEWSMAKER OF THE YEAR.

ISSUE DATE: DEC. 10 CLOSE DATE: NOV. 26 For more infomation contact Pamela Firestone at 212.630.3935 or pamela_fi[email protected] 8 WWD WEDNESDAY, NOVEMBER 7, 2012 WWD.COM Grupo M Builds On Haitian Presence Spared the wrath of the By ARNOLD J. KARR earthquake that devastated port-au-prince and much of GRupO M has taken full ad- southern Haiti, the firm had al- vantage of the trade allowances ready built up a sizable Haitian afforded apparel companies manufacturing stream based The Haitian production facilities. manufacturing in Haiti. And, to on the Haitian Hemispheric its benefit and that of its manu- Opportunity through partnership Ouanaminthe, Haiti, but it as we assemble the garments margin products. The current facturing associates, it hasn’t Encouragement act. Created brought on HELp, the Haitian in Haiti, we’re free to source bottoms mix is about 80 per- stopped there. in 2006 and expanded further Economic Lift program, which fabrics and virtually any- cent jeans and the remainder The Dominican Republic- in 2008, the HOpE act was de- expanded duty-free status for where we’d like, to do , is in casual bottoms. The firm’s based vertical manufacturer signed to help rebuild the pro- apparel made in Haiti to 200 trim and embroidery in our DR T-shirt capacity is more than bought land directly across duction base of the Western million square meter equiva- facilities or elsewhere, and ship 400,000 a week with other knit the border in Haiti — literally Hemisphere’s poorest country lents from their previous level into the u.S. without duty.” tops and wovens adding about walking distance from its head- as its poverty lingered and its of 70 million to help give Haiti’s The company is counting on 25,000 a week. quarters — on the island of previous niche as an apparel reeling economy a boost. two initiatives — a push into Grupo M employs 6,500 Hispaniola and began produc- exporter was decimated by the “This is all in the spirit of high-technology synthetic , Haitian nationals at the Codevi ing there in 2003, two years be- shift to Asia. creating jobs that, even before like those used in compression Industrial park on the Haitian fore the end of the quota system The earthquake produced the earthquake, were very badly fabrics, and a collaboration with side of the border, plus another that sent much of the produc- nothing more than tremors needed in Haiti,” said Joseph Los Angeles-based Blue River 3,000 on the Dominican Republic tion previously situated in the in Grupo M’s factories at the Blumberg, vice president and Denim, a laundry focused on side of the border who focus on Caribbean Basin to Asia. Codevi Industrial park in partner of Grupo M. “As long the needs of the premium jeans administration, distribution and market. While Grupo M expects related operations activities. a modest increase in revenues Rony pierre, Ouanaminthe’s Joseph Blumberg this year, to about $130 million mayor, sees the company’s im- from $125.8 million in 2011, it’s pact as going well beyond the em- banking on these new directions ployees, affecting every aspect of to increase volume more than 15 life in the community of 120,000 percent next year, to about $150 where, prior to Grupo M’s arrival, million, according to Fernando only about 200 had jobs. Capellán, president and chief “I don’t know where we’d executive officer. be without them,” he said The new association, dubbed through an interpreter. “Roads the “laundry lab,” “is exactly are being paved, we’re getting what is needed to enhance and electricity and a sewage treat- launch the new vision of our ment project is under way. The denim business, where…design- government is working hard to ers and merchants will have the improve conditions, to provide opportunity to develop their new potable water for our citizens. concepts and convert their ideas Grupo M has helped make to product in our unique D.R.- these things happen and drawn Haiti duty-free environment.” attention to our plight.” That should help boost Grupo M’s customers have Grupo M’s bottoms output, cur- also played a role. Blumberg Fernando Capellán rently about 110,000 units a noted that the firm, like many week, steering it toward higher- contractors doing work for large brands and retailers, is subject to customer audits of its envi- ronment and corporate social responsibility practices “about once a week.” Its customer roster includes Gap’s Old Navy and Banana Republic units, Hanesbrands, Warnaco, American Eagle Outfitters, Aéropostale, Donna Karan International, Lucky Brand and Dillard’s. The firm’s commitment to CSR began be- fore its involvement with Levi Strauss & Co. but accelerated greatly after it began. “Grupo M comes to us on a regular basis with ideas for how we can partner to do more in the local community,” said Michael Kobori, vice president of social and environmental sustainability at Levi’s. “We’ve worked with them on issues that are particularly important in Haiti — HIV education for work- ers, access to water for the com- munity and on water reduction programs at the factory. They share our conviction that giv- ing back helps create a stronger connection with workers, and therefore a stronger business.” Blumberg boasted about re- cent reductions in the compa- ny’s carbon footprint, and also about “coexisting with a union in peace” as the firm purports to be the only apparel enterprise in Haiti that is unionized.

w07a008a.indd 8 11/6/12 5:11 PM 11062012171438 kNIGHTLEY TIME: A talk with Jacqueline Durran, who outfitted keira knightley for her role in “Anna WWD STYLE karenina.” PAGE 10 PHOTO BY DOMINIqUE MAITRE

PARIS — Galeries Lafayette opted for pachyderm power on Tuesday to flip the switch on its Christmas display, a collaboration with that purveyor of a different …in the Room sort of trunk, . For more, see page 10.

to Bailey or any other editors “Of course, the magazine reputation as the queen of recognize me in the pictures,” MeMo pad in chief. “I’m not working belongs to Hearst, not to porno chic. There wasn’t an she said. “My way, my castings, with [Bailey],” she said, while Glenda,” he said. “It’s a smart immediate impulse to work with the way I put clothes together, THE VIEW FROM CARINE: In early noting that the long-time editor and clever thing for all of our another behemoth publisher. it’s very me.” — ERIk MAzA October, Hearst scored a splashy in chief is “a very important editors to buy into because every But Edwards won her coup when it convinced Carine part of Bazaar.” Roitfeld said edition of the magazine gets the over with the idea that the A DEPARTURE: As the international Roitfeld, who seemed elated to she’ll develop her stories and benefit of this global story, and job seems to be the first of its Harper’s Bazaar has recruited be free of corporate constraints then they’ll be given to all the which magazine wouldn’t want a kind, and gives her, also for the a high-profile contributor in after her decade at French international magazines. “I’m story styled by Carine?” first time, a large readership Carine Roitfeld, American Bazaar Vogue, to join the company as always independent. No boss,” Edwards wanted Roitfeld to spanning several countries. continues to lose staff. In early the global fashion director of she said. She explained she’ll come to Hearst soon after she left “Can you imagine for me to go October, features director Harper’s Bazaar. The job has her be mostly working with Duncan Condé Nast in January 2011, and from so small to have so many Anamaria Wilson moved to Michael styling four fashion stories a year Edwards, president and chief approached her that September. readers?” she said. Kors as vice president, global that will appear simultaneously executive officer of Hearst It took a year of pursuit to He also assured her she corporate communications. across all international editions. Magazines International. get her to agree. wouldn’t have to give up her Shortly thereafter, executive But upon the announcement, Edwards said Roitfeld’s During the Q&A, Roitfeld lucrative consulting and editor kristina O’Neill became the it was also somewhat vaguely mandate is to create stories made clear she did not freelance projects. At Hearst, editor in chief of WSJ. magazine. defined. Would individual brand that can reverberate globally. appreciate the regular fights Roitfeld is just another Now, following O’Neill to the editors get veto power over “It’s an independent story that’s with Condé management over freelancer, Edwards said. magazine is Elisa Lipsky-karasz, Roitfeld’s shoots? What if Glenda really for Bazaar rather than her magazine’s provocative With such a broad portfolio, who will be the title’s fashion Bailey found one of the stories one individual edition,” he spreads. She seems to relish Roitfeld understands she has news and features director. The too risque? said. “You can’t have one editor her freedom, taking on new limitations. “When you’re departure comes just a couple of Roitfeld appeared Monday editing that story.” advertising campaigns and talking to a wider scale of weeks after Lipsky-Karasz was night for a Q&A at the French Even if the brand takes started her own magazine, CR readers, you think a bit promoted to Wilson’s old job at Institute Alliance Française precedence over an individual Fashion Book, where she has differently,” she said. But she’s Bazaar, which she joined after in New York and made it creative vision, editors will wide latitude to do whatever convinced her personality serving as associate Eye editor clear she won’t be reporting reap the rewards, he said. she wants and embraces her can break through. “You will of WWD. — E.M.

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Jacqueline Durran Designing ‘Anna Karenina’ dressed A sketch eye of one of Keira ANNA KARENINA never had it of Art, Durran got a closer look this fine jewelry, as Anna would. Knightley so good. at the early dresses of Charles It was the aura of Anna Karenina Durran’s creations. for Anna Two million dollars’ worth of Frederick Worth, which provided that we were creating,” she said. Karenina. Chanel diamonds and vintage further inspiration. The end But it wasn’t all sparkles and Balenciaga-inspired dresses result was the unlikely combo of silk. Filmed over the course of are just a few of the finishing 1870s skirt shapes with Fifties- 12 weeks, on 100 different sets, touches costume designer inspired bodices, including one at one point Durran and some of Jacqueline Durran has dreamt blue gown made of denim. the cast took an 18-hour journey up for Keira Knightley’s fur- In a phone interview from her from Saint Petersburg to the wrapped character in Joe office Tuesday, Durran border of Finland — “I can’t Wright’s new film adaptation of spoke of the effort that went into even say the name of the place” the 1877 Tolstoy novel. every last look. “When we were — to shoot a snowy scene in the Perhaps best known for discussing what color kimono 32-degrees-below-zero climate. the scene-stealing emerald- Keira should wear, we had Durran designed more authentic green dress Knightley wore in five different heads of various looks for Domhnall Gleeson’s Wright’s “Atonement,” Durran departments. It is a good thing Levin character, but she did not has once again made fashion a to say that, because it shows how want exact period costumes for centerpiece in this latest film, important each aesthetic is to his Aaron Taylor-Johnson’s Count which hits theaters Nov. 16. films,” she said. Alexei Vronsky or Jude Law’s Rather than dress her in period Knightley was also waist-deep Alexei Karenin. The fact that a FEATURES LAURIE SPARHAM/FOCUS costumes circa 1870s Russia, in the process, weighing in on ball, a horse race, a skating party

Wright suggested Durran draw color and fabric options, though and several other scenes were PHOTO BY from Fifties-inspired silhouettes never in the name of vanity. played out on what was meant to for more of a contemporary “Keira would never say, ‘I don’t look like a deteriorating theater spirit. After poring over like this dress. Everything is very added another dimension to ballrooms were often mirrored ‘performing’ correctly.” photographs and paintings from rooted in the work,” said Durran, the Tom Stoppard-written so that they could watch After the course in the 1870s, she studied pieces adding that the actress started screenplay. themselves and appreciate Russian history that was “Anna from Christian , Balenciaga, each day on set by choosing from Every last frame was meant their own ‘performances’ as Karenina,” Durran turned to a Jacques Fath and Lanvin from the Chanel baubles splayed out to reflect the past but not to French people, and they were lighter assignment — a comedy the Fifties. Traces of the latter on a table before her. “Never in the nth degree. Wright noted advised to keep one side of starring Jesse Eisenberg as a are evident in the actress’ my experience on film sets have that privileged Russians of the mind French and one side deadbeat working in an office pillbox hats, asymmetric bodices, I seen anyone with such a range that time “dressed as French Russian. The Russian side was who meets his doppelgänger buttons and other subtle details. of diamonds and pearls. But I people and read books on the always observing and checking in a place that is meant to look Through the Costume Institute have to say it was very useful for etiquette of how to behave the French side to make sure like nowhere remotely familiar. at the Metropolitan Museum Keira to have at her fingertips all like a French person. Their that you were behaving, or — ROSEMARY FEITELBERG

FOR MORE PHOTOS, SEE Alexi Ashe and Seth Meyers WWD.com/eye. Hidden Jewels

EVERYONE KNOWS about does include plenty of new Place Vendôme jewelers, discoveries, the barometer but what about the hidden, he used was “people who edgy designers who are are new with regard to hanging diamonds on cord either their creative and carving up pearls? approach or technique.” That’s the subject of French Take Todd Reed from author Olivier Dupon’s latest Colorado, who uses raw tome, “The New Jewelers.” diamonds exclusively. “He Released in the U.S. this week, rejects extreme faceting it spotlights 108 designers and illusory perfection. By from 19 different countries, treating the diamond as categorized into nine chapters nature intended it, he ‘Skyfall’ After A Sky Fall ranging from “Cool Luxury” redefined what luxury could to “The Avant-Gardists.” be,” Dupon explained. ON MONDAY NIGHT, exactly opulent table settings in the Published by Thames & Buzz worthy, too, are a week after Hurricane Sandy expansive ground floor lobby, Hudson, the 288-page book the creations of Melanie wreaked havoc on the East Bombay Sapphire cocktails features 800 photographs and Georgacopoulos, a Greek OLIVIER DUPON Coast, the New York social set and a wait staff wielding hors sketches. jeweler with a fancy for

seemed slightly back to normal d’oeuvres through the crowd on “It’s about showing people pearls. “She cuts, drills and PHOTO BY at the Ziegfeld Theater. There, five-foot-long sticks. the talent that’s out there, that slices them. It’s pretty harsh AT&T and Epix sponsored a The evening also served as you may not have heard about, treatment actually; some screening of the latest entry (23 a benefit for the Tribeca Film but that is a real alternative people think it’s blasphemy and counting) in the James Bond Institute and the Mayor’s Fund to the big names,” Dupon said to do that with pearls, but franchise, “Skyfall,” and though to Advance . in an interview at the Café she really rejuvenated their neither Daniel Craig nor any of Sandy still proved to be the de Flore in Paris, adding he image. She did not get rid of the the cast’s primaries made the most popular talking point of wanted to give a platform elegance, she took it to the 22nd rescheduled affair, screenwriter the night among guests. to “independent jewelry century,” he said. James Logan attended, as well “Once you got over the designers who are doing Formerly a production as guests including Ron Burkle, initial [stress of] having to leave really wearable pieces instead manager for Christian Dior Norma Kamali, Seth Meyers, Muffie your apartment, it was kind of of something that you will and a buyer for the 3 Suisses Olivier Dupon Potter Aston, Gigi Mortimer and fun,” said Lauren Remington Platt, never be able to afford or that catalogue, Dupon said he Pink Floyd’s Roger Waters. of how she spent her nights [belongs] in a museum.” scouts for talent in shops and Following the film, guests without electricity. “I lived with Though Dupon’s compilation magazines while traveling. on the rise and no longer seen headed to the Museum of a friend uptown. It was sort of a “When I’m in Asia, I will buy 10 as taboo. “It’s still precious Modern Art, where they found glorified college experience… An Esther Assouline fashion magazines. jewelry, but wearable on an except you have more money heart necklace. I don’t understand a word of it, everyday basis,” he noted. now and the rooms are nicer. Or but when an image strikes me, Dupon also appreciates rather, the couches are nicer.” that’s it,” he said. technical inventiveness, Sting and Trudie Styler mingled Dupon characterized his citing as an example Esther their way through each reference book as a road map Assouline, a French designer STEVE EICHNER room, attracting the company to individual expression. of Moroccan origin who has of friends, flashbulbs and “Uniformity is everywhere, revived the ancient art of occasionally their daughter but people are looking for an gold chiseling and is believed PHOTOS BY Mickey Sumner. identity, and I believe jewelry to be the sole practitioner. “We were very fortunate has a role to play here,” he “It’s a very energy- and time- during the hurricane, unlike a lot said. “ Yo u can totally self- consuming technique, but of people. We had fun,” said Sting. express [with jewelry], there is absolutely stunning, because “What we did was not for no age or size appropriateness each piece is charged with a publication,” he continued, — unlike in fashion.” human touch and vibe,” he ADRIEN ALLEAUME with a mischievous nod to his Asked about trends, Dupon said. “It’s a way to stand out in Sting and Trudie Styler wife, who gave him a knowing said mixing precious with the crowd. The trend is to be — KRISTI GARCED — PAULINA SZMYDKE

laugh. PHOTO BY semiprecious stones is clearly different. 2.5x7 (right)

WWD, WEDNESDAY,WWD wednesday,NOVEMBER 7, november2012 11 7, 2012 11 WWD.COM

still being determined. “Being synonymous with relaxation, Fashion scoops Tommy Bahama understands that even the greatest city in the world needs a little time to herself right now — a bit more than the famed ‘New York Minute,’” The Galeries said the company. Out of respect to the Lafayette window Tristate area, New York City and its displays feature residents, the company said it decided to animals and Louis postpone the party. Vuitton luggage. Tommy Bahama’s 8,509-square-foot store — which will reflect the upscale Carolyne Roehm and Sarah Jessica island lifestyle — will have three levels Parker with Nathan Turner, right. and a restaurant. The company hopes to reschedule the event after the city a. hoyer/patrickmcmullan.com photo by recovers from Hurricane Sandy. Tommy to raise enough money for a new pump Bahama plans to make a donation to the engine. Another neighbor is Jasper Johns, American Red Cross, the Food Bank for who has ratcheted up the event’s auction New York City and Citymeals-on-Wheels. with a signed print of his signature flag. — LISA LOCKWOOD Renovating the Greek Revival house in Charleston, S.C., where she plans to ROEHM IF YOU HAVE TO: Carolyne Roehm “warm her bones” later in life, is also on celebrated Nathan Turner’s new book her to-do list. “American Style: Classic Design and While Roehm did lunch with her Effortless Entertaining” at her 57th former boss Oscar de la Renta Sunday, she Street home Monday night even though said keeping up with fashion is not a her 11th book made its debut Tuesday. priority. “If you asked me to name the While Sarah Jessica Parker, Katie Couric, Kyle three of the hottest designers, I would MacLachlan, Victor Garber, Robert Ruffino and have no idea,” she said. “Today the only other guests mingled, Roehm took a minute news I have for you is that the adorable to talk about some of her own pursuits. Alberto Pinto has died. I don’t even focus Although she is the honorary chairperson on fashion. It is amazing given the fact I

photo by Dominique maître photo by and keynote speaker for this weekend’s worked in fashion for so long but it is just Delaware Antiques Fair, she no longer not part of my life.” TRUNK SHOW: There was more than be sold first on HSN, then will enter cares to be dialed into the New York social Dressed in a Lisa Perry dress and Maja one kind of trunk on display in Paris Perfumania doors (owned by Parlux’s scene as she was during the high-flying DuBrul necklaces, Roehm, 61, said she Tuesday night as Galeries Lafayette parent company) on Black Friday. Eighties. “I’m having dinner with friends doesn’t keep tabs on New York socialites inaugurated its holiday windows, Individual nail shades are $7.99 each. tonight. I haven’t been in Mr. Chow’s in either. “I am so out of it. I have no idea. I designed in collaboration with Louis Nail decal sets are $8.99, and acrylic years and I live above it,” she said. do know when I walk along the streets of Vuitton. Model Loulou Robert arrived nails, $9.99. — JULIE NAUGHTON Planning a benefit party for the New York, I think everyone looks horribly astride an elephant named Dumba, volunteer fire department in Sharon, dressed,” she said. “When I see pictures who didn’t so much press the buzzer as Conn., is now more her speed. (Most of of women in their 30s and early 40s, they lift it out of its socket to switch on the her time is spent there at Weatherstone, look beautiful and seem to have made an department store’s Christmas lights. a 1765 home that was restored after effort which makes me happy. I hope they Officials including Galeries Snooki’s being ravaged by an electrical fire in are having fun — that is all I can say.” Lafayette chief executive officerPhilippe new beauty 1999.) Roehm’s small-town gala aims — ROSEMARY FEITELBERG Houzé and Roberto Eggs, president for items. North Europe at Louis Vuitton, then unveiled the windows on the theme “The Ball of the Century,” to mark the centenary of the store’s stained glass dome. The window displays feature a menagerie of exotic animals flocking around leather goods and ready-to- wear, along with vintage luggage to For more career opportunities log on to WWDCareers.com. chart Vuitton’s 158 years of history. Presumably the elephant worked for more than peanuts. — JOELLE DIDERICH

IN THE EAST: Tom Ford has tapped Jerome Cheung as chief executive officer of Tom Ford Asia Pacific, effective Tuesday, with responsibility for the entire region. Cheung, who was most recently DEVI DEALS: Devi Kroell took its act to PATTERNS, SAMPLES, PRODUCTIONS president and ceo of Bottega Veneta Asia Hollywood last week where it showcased Full service shop to the trade. Pacific, succeeds Regina Lam, who exited its wares at a dinner hosted by Ali Larter, Fine fast work. 212-869-2699 Tom Ford on Monday. Earlier in his Minnie Mortimer Gaghan and Claiborne career, Cheung was president of Bottega Swanson Frank at the Sunset Tower on Lilly Pulitzer® is a lifestyle, branded marketing company serving the resort Veneta Japan, president of Gucci Japan, Thursday. The brand has plans to open a needs of the affluent customer at ease. If you understand the "Lilly" and president and managing director of boutique on Rodeo Drive in the spring, customer, resort lifestyle, and have an entrepreneurial spirit, this might be perfect for you! Gucci Group Guam. but until it has brick-and-mortar retail in CAD TECHNICAL DRAWINGS Tom Ford directly operates six Los Angeles, showcasing the collection With Adobe Illustrator we render gar- ment design sketches into vector tech- STORE MANAGER stores in Japan, four in South Korea, on socials and starlets is one way to nical drawings & flats. $30 & up per two in China and two in Hong Kong. take care of business. Said Larter, “I’ve style. For more info & terms email: We have an opening for a Store Manager located in McLean, Virginia at the Cheung reports to Tom Mendenhall, chief always been a fan of their bags and [email protected] Tysons Galleria. This is a brand new store opening in early December. Our Store Manager has the responsibility for the daily operations of the store. operating officer at London-based Tom shoes....That’s the difference between a This includes sales, serving the customer, understanding and presenting the Ford. — DAVID LIPKE good accessory and a great accessory.” merchandise, using the POS software effectively and safeguarding the Besides hosting and attending assets of the store. Ideal candidate should have 5+ years in a retail man- SHORE-ING UP: In the wake of the fashion dinners, Larter has a full plate. agement position, excellent leadership ability and strong business acumen. cancellation of “ Shore,” Nicole She’s working on a home entertaining Understanding the resort lifestyle and the Lilly Pulitzer customer is critical. “Snooki” Polizzi is apparently looking to book, finishing taping on Showtime’s Lilly Pulitzer is growing! We are opening more stores in 2013 and are con- establish herself as a beauty and style “House of Lies” and just sold a still- stantly on the lookout for Store Managers. If you are interested in working entrepreneur. Polizzi will appear on untitled show that she called “‘Mean retail for us be sure to reach out to our recruiter Caroline to discuss future HSN on Wednesday at 9 p.m. to launch Girls’ meets the charity world.” She SALES REP WANTED opportunities. Exp. women’s and girl’s rep wanted. her second scent with Parlux, Snooki plans to film the show in New York. Fleece lined leggings,tights, T-shirts. Please email your resume for consideration to [email protected] Couture, and a three-piece nail polish With Hurricane Sandy still front Fast seller. All territories (exc CA, PA, NJ) Commission. Contact: putting the position you are responding to in the subject line. set called All That Glitters — not of many guests’ minds, Crystal Lourd, [email protected] Or fax your resume to 610-878-5555. to mention slippers and sunglasses Shiva Rose, Rochelle Gores Fredston, Magda bearing her name. Berliner and Mary McDonald traded New The fragrance, intended to be “fresh York stories. One bicoastal guest, who and feminine with a playful sexiness” took planes, trains and automobiles to has top notes of Meyer lemon and get to Los Angeles, said, “I’m happy to Fuji apple blossom, a heart of pink be here. I got to take my first shower in honeysuckle and a drydown of white days.” — MARCY MEDINA musk and cashmere woods, and will retail for $50 for 3.4 oz. The polish set RELAXATION MUST WAIT: Tommy Bahama, is part of a line of nine stockkeeping which is getting ready to unveil its New units which features colors like Money York flagship at 551 Fifth Avenue at Maker, a metallic green, and Orange 45th Street, has canceled its private (800) 423-3314, or email [email protected] You Tan, a bright tangerine hue. opening party on Nov. 15. The decision The fragrance and the polish set will to open the retail store on Nov. 17 is

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Tory Burch Answers Chris Burch Lawsuit

{Continued from page one} agreement that “protects” the Tory Burch Tor y Burch brand. By protect, Tory’s team said the

deal would have to “assure” that Chris ‘A Drunken WASP Fest’ Burch wouldn’t “take hundreds of mil- what Christopher Burch was after lions” he would receive from the deal and By ALEXANDRA STEIGRAD Tory Burch became the Tory Burch use it to compete unfairly against Tory in , and there’s Burch with C. Wonder. ONE Of fAShION’S biggest legal maybe influences that go in a lot of In order to meet Burch’s price demand, tiffs might not be a laughing matter directions here. There probably are nsee I ’’

the three investors would all have required h for the parties involved, but that isn’t lots of catalogues people could see. c

“substantial modifications” to Burch’s limited e stopping presiding Judge Leo Strine There are all kinds of dream images G liability contract agreement as a condition from getting a few choice comments of the world. The WASPs, right?”

Geor n to investing, Tory Burch’s lawyers said. As a y on the record. At a scheduling con- On the shopping habits of B result, the majority shareholders of the com- ference on Thursday, Strine, of WASPs: “Real WASPs actually

pany would have the right to block the sale flat Delaware Chancery Court, weighed don’t go and pay full Polo price. and require an agreement as a condition to in on everything from the timing of They don’t pay full Polo price at protect the brand, according to court papers. a trial to the ever-elusive definition Macy’s. No way. They actually will No such agreement was ever made, of a WASP and why John Cheever is find a bargain. That’s how they got and Project Amethyst went kaput, Tory’s a must-read for this case, which he to be, you know, WASPs. When Tory team offered. described as a “drunken WASP fest.” Burch became popular, no one homas Iannaccone; t

In response to Tory Burch’s allegations, y here, a selection of some of his said, ‘Oh, my gosh, this is the new- her former husband’s attorney, Andrew B views from the bench: est thing that ever happened.’” Rossman of Quinn Emanuel Urquhart & n Judge Strine on his role in fash- n On writer John Cheever and why Sullivan, told WWD, “In our view, the inves- photo ion law: “This is like a scheduling the case will be a “drunken WASP tors were not concerned about C. Wonder. conference. That’s all it is.…I didn’t fest”: “I’ve been deep in it, in an Burch It’s not hurting Tory Burch. What was really see any reason to autumnal Cheever going on is that the company was trying to to her attorneys, who provided a litany of burden anyone’s phase. I’ve been use the sale process as a means of creating examples in which media outlets have con- hanukkah, New reading all kinds of leverage against Chris.” fused C. Wonder with Tory Burch. One such Year’s, Christmas, I think if you read Cheever. I’ll have Rossman cited Tory Burch’s personal instance was when Gayle King on her CBS Kwanzaa, festivus to just keep that “animus” against her ex-husband as a pos- morning program told Chris Burch that she with this preppy Cheever, go see up through the — sible motive, but wouldn’t divulge any other mistook his brand for Tory’s brand at first clothing dispute. I through the case. details. The lawyer repeated the contention glance. In response, he said the “aesthetic don’t know why — I the new Virginia have you read your that contrary to her belief that C. Wonder is the same.” guess I did this to Cheever lately? Yo u copied the Tory Burch store design and Tory Burch’s counterclaims also detailed myself, but some- Woolf revival know who he is? merchandise, his client isn’t violating any how C. Wonder was able to “copy” her body in the room and watch “Mad I mean, it’s — you of her intellectual property. image through installing similar lacquered started the other know, and ‘Mad “These are timeless styles that other front doors, store fixtures, furnishings, area tradition of giving Men.” We’ll be all Men’ will be com- people invented,” Rossman said. “I don’t rugs and wall treatments. — where, for some ing back at some think Tory Burch invented the cardigan, the “The store was stocked with mass- reason, I get all the geared up and in point in time. I gold button or the ballet flat.” market versions of the top-selling Tory preppy clothier think if you read he added that through the “hijacking” Burch items that the company identified cases, because I’ve the mood for this Cheever, go see the of the sale, Tory Burch is trying to force to Chris,” noted Tory Burch’s attorneys, had J. Crew. I’ve new Virginia Woolf C. Wonder to “give up rights” to “con- who added that in April 2009, Chris had — I think be- sort of drunken revival and watch strain” the company. Burch was provided with a confiden- cause I’m culturally ‘Mad Men.’ We’ll be tial report analyzing Tory Burch’s steeped in it since I WASP fest. all geared up and A Tory Burch flat. business strategy, customer base and was nine years old in the mood for performance. This included informa- and learned what — Judge Leo Strine this sort of drunken tion regarding Tory Burch’s factories was hard for a kid WASP fest. Are they in China, as well as data regarding from Baltimore, WASPs? Are the top-selling Tory Burch items by size, duck shoes? What’s a duck shoe? Burches WASPs? Do we know?” quantity and price. Yo u know, and then you see all these n After being told that Tory Burch “The idea that he was doing anything freaks wearing this really ugly — I is Jewish and Christopher Burch is other than trying to help the business like L.L. Bean, but those duck shoes “not Jewish”: “OK. But not Jewish makes no sense and is absolutely untrue,” are ugly. I mean, there’s no way doesn’t make you a WASP because it Rossman fired back. “What a company’s around it. So I think for both sides, could make you an equally excluded for Tory Burch, the argument isn’t that most popular products are is not a trade it might come as news, you know, faith like Catholic, right? I mean, Chris Burch can’t start other ventures — it’s secret. It’s information that any reasonably there’s really nothing all that new that’s not a WASP. Yo u know, a WASP just that he can’t compete “unfairly.” The astute observer would know.” about bright clothing and all that is a WASP. So you know — I think burden of the definition of “unfair” is on her Nonetheless, Tory Burch is claiming kind of . So the novelty of any you’re going to have to have interrog- side. Tory Burch said in its counterclaims breach of fiduciary duty, breach of con- of this may be something that I have atories about who’s a WASP. And I’ll that in the “two-plus years” leading up to the tract, equitable relief, unfair competition, to discover for myself, although I do certainly be attacked as anti-WASP, opening of his first C. Wonder store on Oct. misappropriation of trade secrets and de- think the juxtaposition of Two fat probably, and then I love all WASPs. 11, Chris Burch “repeatedly asked for and ceptive trade practices. She is looking for Guys and Talbots in Greenville is ’’I’m bringing actually Rodman Ward was given full complete access to competi- injunctive relief, damages and attorneys’ just a beautiful thing.” Jr. in as my expert because I always tively sensitive information about the com- fees and expenses. n On the image of the WASP: used to tell Rod that he actually pany and its best-selling products.” for his part, Chris Burch is seeking un- “honestly, there are hundreds of had a lineage chart in his basement Under a consulting agreement that paid specified compensatory damages, reason- people in New Castle County who which had all of the DuPont family him more than $11 million, Tory Burch able costs and expenses, and “appropriate could make a bunch of clothes if trees on it. It was like some people claimed that the “purpose” of her former injunctive and equitable relief, including you gave them the catalogues. I’m have war rooms. he had that to de- husband’s requests was to “enable him to as- but not limited to removal of Ms. Burch and not saying Mr. Burch — it’s going termine how they were actually sist the company in identifying factories that the dominated directors from the board and to be interesting, because there’s related to the DuPont family. So I could manufacture Tory Burch products.” the appointment of new and additional di- what Tory Burch was before she think we might be able to have some This culminated in the “copying” of rectors to the board to protect the interests met Christopher Burch, and there’s unique experts in Delaware.” the Tory Burch “brand image,” according of plaintiffs.” Chaiken Introduces New Knitwear Label sleeve dresses, lightweight sweatshirts price points.” Chaiken is known for By LISA LOCKWOOD and hoodies. The color palette runs its pants. The company’s president, the gamut from black, bone and white David Lazar, was the former president ChAIKEN hAS A NEW BRAND UP to baby blue, peacock, tangerine and of Three Dots, the knitwear firm, and its sleeve. rouge. Wholesale price points range has expertise in knitwear. The line is The San francisco-based company from $22 to $42 for tanks and long-sleeve designed by Jeffrey Chow, who also has launched a knitwear label called T-shirts; $51 to $72 for dresses and designs the Chaiken collection. The White, a contemporary collection of sweatshirts, and $59 for shorts. business plans to launch e-commerce T-shirts, dresses, sweatshirts, sweat- White will be manufactured in Peru. in the spring. Chaiken declined to give pants and shorts. The initial collec- Each garment carries the label “White,” a first-year sales projection. tion has 15 bodies with subtle details. with XS, S, M and L underneath. The size White’s first shipments will com- fabrics include french terry, Pima cot- of that particular item is underlined. mence in february to stores such Looks ton, cotton blends and slub ribs. Julie Chaiken, creative director and as Gilda’s Boutique in Boston; The from Among the offerings are cropped owner of the firm, said customers kept Denim Lounge in Chicago; Knit Wit in White. T-shirts, muscle T-shirts, basic tanks, asking the company for T-shirts “and Philadelphia, as well as through Isetan V-neck tanks, short tank dresses, raglan- we wanted to come in with sharper stores throughout Asia.

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