MARCH 2015 NOW AVAILABLE ON MAGZTER.COM

I NDIA’S L UXURY I NSIDER

“Jodhpur’s distance from Delhi and its rich cultural heritage has ensured that it maintains its exclusivity for discerning travellers, unlike Jaipur” Maharaja Gaj Singh

In Transit Point of View Trends Stefano Ricci India’s fake bazaar Digital apps: jumping on his and how luxury onto the smartphone India plans brands can combat it bandwagon Prologue Contents

News & Views Haute Seat Crowdsourcing invades the 02 19 Gallerist Peter Nagy world of art and London is inspired by great Intelligent cities restaurant Mad Hatter architecture and readies for its Mumbai debut splurges on jackets

visited Shanghai on a whirlwind work trip a few years ago. Maharajas have managed their properties intelligently, the China’s ‘showpiece’ city has rightly earned its moniker. remainder of our privately owned heritage is being torn down Gallery 08 20 Point of View IUndeniably a well-planned concrete jungle, the city is to make way for the new. Elite catering service Protecting a trademark clean, safe and easy to navigate. The nightclubs on the lovely We don’t need a Shanghai when we already have R Chef @ Home is against counterfeits needs to Bund work round-the-clock, the private dinner cruise around thriving cities that need to be spruced up. I place my bets launched and Bridal Asia be a priority for luxury brands taps the Mumbai market in markets with weak laws the Pearl Tower was magical, and we can only dream about on Varanasi. If the government manages to turnaround the the Maglev in India. But its most striking aspect was that holy city, without affecting its sanctity and heritage, then our despite Shanghai being the most populous city of China, it rejuvenated ‘Cultural Capital’ will rival the best of China’s Luxe Buys 10 23 Trends was absolutely free of the chaos, colour and smell that clings flawless, yet imminently forgettable futuristic lands. Celebrate the Luxury brands are building to our towns. With none of the bedlam we are used to at home, Enjoy the journey! various hues of mobile apps to engage, the colour of the entertain and inform yet without a glimpse of authentic Chinese culture, I left with year, marsala aˆuent consumers little memory of the place. So, when the government spoke about developing Ajmer, Allahabad and Visakhapatnam into smart versions of In Transit 12 26 The Last Impression themselves, my interest was piqued. How can we keep our Stefano Ricci, the For contemporary label, flourishing luxury behno, an ethical supply cultural identity intact, without disrupting livelihoods, while fashion and lifestyle chain is necessary to build bringing these densely populated cities up to speed with the brand, steps into India a sustainable brand developed world? Developing and managing a city is a mind boggling task, especially when faced with a crucial question: how does Cover Story Belle Vie Maharaja Gaj Singh has 14 28 Klove celebrates its 10th one preserve the past while planning for the future? Jodhpur transformed Jodhpur into anniversary and India is a fantastic example, where Maharaja Gaj Singh, the scion of Cover: Maharaja Gaj Singh, Jodhpur Rajasthan’s glamorous Beach Fashion Week the erstwhile royal family, has been instrumental in preserving cultural outpost takes centrestage the past while making it relevant to the future. While Indian [email protected]

This magazine is printed by and produced by Mediascope Publicitas (India) Pvt Ltd. Opinions herein are the writer’s and do not necessarily reflect the opinions of MSP. Editorial enquiries CEO — Marzban Patel • ED — Anita Patel • CFO — Anup Dutta • Director — Indu Joshi • Editor-in-Chief — Deepali Nandwani • Editor — Neeti Mehra concerning the reproduction of articles, advertising and circulation should be addressed to: BlackBook, Mediascope Publicitas (India) Pvt Ltd, 51 Doli Chamber, Arthur Bunder Road, Colaba, Contributor — Riaan Jacob George Mumbai 400 005, India. Email: [email protected]. Material in this publication may not be reproduced, whether in part or in whole, without the consent of the publisher. Creative Director — Muhammad Jaan Faruqui • Art Director — Rane Sanjay Vaman • Graphic Designer — Sudhakar bhambade • Image Editor — Mrunali Gujarathi • Production Manager — Elidio Fernandes BlackBook is printed at Parksons Graphics, Andheri (West), Mumbai 400 053. ADMIn. DEPArtMEnt: Manager Mktg. Services — Salim B • ADvErtISInG SAlES: vice President — Monica Chopra • Mumbai (022-61377400) Senior Managers — Lamont Dias • Rashmi Kapoor • Delhi(011-23730873/66599300) • General Manager — Asha Augustine Letters to the editor Senior Manager — Saloni Verma • Bangalore (080-25592714/82514) — Yogeesha A • Jaipur (09828150706) — Peeush Gupta • Kerala (09414069321) — Sanjai Krishnan • Hyderabad (08978866599) — Sheetal Petkar Write in with your comments, suggestions and ideas to [email protected]

MARCH 2015 | BLACKBOOK [ 1 ] News & Views

Crowdsourcing art s crowdsourcing’s appeal increases, the art world hasn’t stayed immune Ato its charm, often offering a platform to artists and connoisseurs to participate in this democratic process. In what can be a game changer, auction house Christie’s launched their first crowdsourced section of artworks, as part of a collaborative initiative between FIRST OPEN/LDN and innovative social A hospitality alliance media platform, ArtStack. Artists were given the opportunity to submit their iving a voice to standalone boutique properties in a cluttered work via ArtStack for an online competition, Gmarketplace, RARE, a representation and hotel marketing company where the public voted for their favourite selling experiential travel concepts within India, has inked a marketing art works by ‘stacking’. Nearly 3,000 artists alliance with Secret Retreats. The latter runs similar operations, but with a from over 100 countries submitted 11,000 pan Asia focus, and will help RARE widen its reach globally. Together, the works, and only eight were selected by an two companies represent a collection of 80 boutique properties across elite panellist drawn from the world of art, Asia. “It seemed only natural to join forces and combine our resources and fashion and media. Speaking about the expertise. Both parties have become an extension of the other, allowing our enthusiastic response and Christie’s attempt guests to benefit from a broader range of travel experiences and destinations to engage art lovers globally in new ways, in Asia,” says Stephane Junca, Managing Director, Secret Retreats. With Ezra Konvitz, Co-Founder, ArtStack, says, a thrust on promoting authentic Asian experiences, the properties they “The collaboration is truly a revolutionary represent include the exotic Villa Samar in Siem Reap, just outside the project for the art world.” christies.com; Angkor Wat, and Jing’s Residence in Shanghai, the former home of a Chinese theartstack.com silk merchant. rareindia.com; secret-retreats.com

PROMPERÚ to tap India Modern Indian for Mumbai xploring the Inca trail and taking the high he Mad Hatter, a modern Indian Eroad to Machu Picchu will be easier than Tfine dine restaurant, helmed by ever. PROMPERÚ, the Export and Tourism Chef Stephen Gomes and promoted by Ace Promotion Board of Peru, has appointed Silverstone Hospitality, is set to open in AVIAREPS, a tourism and airline management Mumbai’s suburb of Juhu. Gomes, named as agency as its India representative. AVIAREPS the English Curry Chef of 2013, runs Moksh India will be responsible for all sales, marketing in Cardiff, and specialises in Ayurvedic cuisine and promotional activities in the country on fused with molecular gastronomy. “The behalf of the destination. Peru views India restaurant is positioned as an upmarket fine as an important potential market. Minister dining space that offers patrons an interactive of Foreign Trade and Tourism and President of PROMPERÚ, Magali Silva dining experience,” he says. A fourth generation chef, his legacy began with his Velarde-Álvarez, says, “We are beginning negotiations towards a bilateral great grandfather, a head chef at the Eastern Shipping Company during the Raj. free trade agreement.” Peru, located in the west of South America, has seen a “My food preserves memories and I am inspired by the dishes I grew up with. surprising increase in tourism from India. Despite poor air connectivity, in the My style is innovative, yet stays authentic to Indian cuisine.” Ace Silverstone last five years, the percentage of Indian tourists to the country has doubled, an Hospitality is promoted by the quartet Anupam Mayekar, Dharmesh Karmokar, impressive 12 per cent increase between 2013 and October 2014, according to Rupin Parikh and Vipul Patel. The hospitality company will soon launch a fine o¡cial numbers. promperu.gob.pe; aviareps.com dining Japanese and Korean cuisine restaurant, IZUMI, in Juhu in Mumbai.

Did the budget meet your expectations?

Reena Wadhwa Dimple Nahar Gaurav Goenka Anuj Puri Indian Joint Founder and Owner of MD, Mirah Chairman & Country Venture Partner 2DIVINE — The Lifestyle Hospitality Head, JLL India for Gucci Temple The budget The budget is low Yes. It has Yes. The budget has met my overall has been on big bang reforms something expectations as it promotes very positive. and real estate is for everybody. There is no the ‘Make In India’ campaign. The local The only deterrent, according only an indirect beneficiary at specific proposal which luxury industry is expected to benefit to me, is the increase in best. The budget does not provide helps or hurts the luxury substantially, if not exceptionally. Home- service tax to 14 per cent. It any details on the smart cities segment, though the grown brands, which follow international was already quite high and that have been announced by general direction of the trends in fashion, luxury and lifestyle, this will be detrimental to the Government. Incentivising budget should provide depend on the Indian budget to give them the growth of the hospitality the usage of wired money rather comfort to global an impetus. A rise in the price of branded industry. Consumers will than cash transactions has corporations that apparel will see consumers moving have to spend more on other significant pertinence to real estate, India is serious about towards locally designed fashion. A rise in services, which is going to which is one sector where cash easing the process of the prices of precious stones will result in reduce their spends on transactions have been impacting conducting business. a price hike in jewellery. eating out. its transparency.

[ 2 ] BLACKBOOK | MARCH 2015 “This is our real coming in India as we have created a full- fledged Bvlgari subsidiary based in Delhi, which will handle QUOTEUNQUOTE our retail and wholesale operations for jewellery, News & Views watches and accessories. We were earlier exporting to an agent and therefore not in control of our image, awareness building or assortment and pricing.”

JEANCHRISTOPHE BABIN CEO, Bvlgari

BRICK & MORTAR LAUNCH PAD Watches for Pune Swiss watchmaker OMEGA debuted in Pune with a standalone boutique on the city’s bustling MG road, bringing the total number of its mono-brand stores in the country to nine. Fashioned in accordance to the watchmaker’s global design ethos, the slick store is coloured in muted tones of cream and champagne. Customers can choose from an assortment of watches In a glittering event held in Mumbai, BMW India introduced its new sub-brand from OMEGA’s four collections — BMW i in the country, launching the i8, a plug-in hybrid vehicle. Available Constellation, Seamaster, Speedmaster only at BMW i dealerships in Mumbai, New Delhi and Chennai, the car is the and De Ville — as well as its fine leather company’s future-focused interpretation of driving. The plug-in hybrid system and jewellery collections. Inaugurated combines the benefit of an electric motor and a petrol engine, enabling fuel by brand ambassador Abhishek e¡ciency. The promotional thrust will be on mega-cities, where government Bachchan, OMEGA President Stephen policies and improved infrastructure are paving the way for sustainable Urquhart sent a message that the city mobility solutions. BMW India is revamping its portfolio to gain market share. fits well into its ambitious growth The i8 is the first of over a dozen launches lined up for the year by the company. plans. omegawatches.com It is priced at `2.29 crore, ex-showroom. bmw.in

Nagaland to get apparel centre n line with the Ministry of Textiles plans to develop hubs across the country, Iit has commenced work on an apparel and garment making centre at Dimapur, Nagaland, and also launched a weavers’ service centre at Toluvi. Making development inclusive and participatory, the government hopes to give an impetus to textiles in the North East. This is part of the North East Region Textile Promotion Scheme (NERTPS) of the ministry, an umbrella scheme to develop various textiles — silk, handlooms, handicrafts, apparels and garments, with an outlay of over `1,000 crore. In this scheme, each state allowing the facility to be provided to new entrepreneurs. The fully funded will have one centre with three units. project will receive central assistance for the construction of physical For local entrepreneurs with the requisite background, required infrastructure, purchase of machinery and capacity building for the facilities to start a unit will be provided on a ‘plug and play’ mode. next three years. Each centre is estimated to generate direct employment for Once such entrepreneurs get established, they can set up their own units, 1,200 people. texmin.nic.in

LUXURY EVENTS 11th Hotel Investment The Luxury Festival Walpole Summit 2015: Conference-South Asia April 9 -12, 2015 Eastern Growth Seminar Hall no. 14, ITPO, Pragati In association with Covington (HICSA) Maidan, New Delhi, India April 7-8, 2015 April 28, 2015 8.15am – 4.30pm JW Marriott Aerocity, BAFTA, 195 Piccadilly, London New Delhi, India The first edition of The Luxury Festival, an exhibition organied The 2015 Walpole Luxury Summit will HICSA, the hospitality by Quintessentially Lifestyle concentrate on markets for luxury investment conference, brought Services India, GroupM and businesses and examine Greater China together 500 delegates from the Confederation of Indian and the Asia-Pacific region. It will look over 20 countries last year. This Industry, will be a three day at the main developments in the past year, the conference has moved extravaganza showcasing the year and will investigate prospects for to a new venue, the JW Marriott world’s leading luxury brands 2015 and beyond. The speakers include Aerocity, and expected attendees to an ultra-a«uent audience. Francesca Muston, Head of Retail & include Arne Sorenson, The ‘By Invitation’ event will Product Analysis, WGSN; Anson Bailey, President & CEO, Marriott see attendance from senior Principal, Business Development, KPMG; International; Rakesh Sarna, executives of global luxury Robin Colgan, Global Brand Director, Managing Director & CEO, Taj brands, industry experts, and Land Rover; and Imran Amed, Founder Group, among others. high net worth individuals across & CEO, The Business of Fashion. hvs.com India. theluxuryfestival.com thewalpole.co.uk

[ 4 ] BLACKBOOK | MARCH 2015 THE RADAR News & Views

“Becoming a more general luxury brand would be commercially disastrous for these companies.” — Neil SauNderS Managing Director of Conlumino, a retail research Digital assets and consulting firm, on brand extensions by key for luxury brands in 2015 luxury automakers.

s more luxury consumers log on, 2015 Awill be the year of major spending Luxury’s Digital Ascendance

by luxury retailers who are looking to Brand awareness “You are building a gain ROI from digital marketing, says a is the top advertising priority, with relationship with people new report. conversions coming in who may continue to The survey, conducted by advertising second. 73% 62% 49% 33% 20% 18% use your product for the platform RadiumOne and Worldwide Increase Brand Drive Trackable Increase Website Support a product Sustain in market Drive Foot next 25 years. Those Business Research Digital, at the 2014 Awareness Conversions Tra¡c release/launch Presence Tra¡c interactions that you have, Luxury Interactive conference in New particularly through social York, found that 92 per cent of luxury retail respondents increased their digital marketing investment in streams, which you can 2014. The participants’ key objectives? An increase in brand awareness, followed by trackable conversions. get through the digital With the proliferation of smartphones, retailers are waking up to the significant opportunities available world, are super valuable. It would be a shame not to in a largely untapped segment. Currently, just 58 per cent of luxury retailers were satisfied with their mobile invest in that.” initiatives last year, despite the fact that three out of four luxury shoppers own a smartphone. According — ChriS Moody to the report, a considerable number of brands (64 per cent) are looking to build a roadmap to integrate a Creative Director at brand physical store and a mobile presence. Additional priorities include progress in real-time targeting (52 per consultant Wolff Olins on how cent), real-time optimisation (44 per cent), banners (33 per cent), and video (26 per cent). digital marketing is changing Retailers hoping to reach out to high-end audiences are investing in integrating display advertising with the way luxury brands engage with customers. mobile, web, video and social advertising in real time. Eric Bader, CMO of RadiumOne, says, “Consumers are hungry to engage with retailers and in order to increase brand awareness and customer retention in 2015, marketers must deploy sophisticated technologies that enhance the consumer experience at a range of locations between home, o¡ce and retail.” radiumone.com

“The question is not, ‘Is it APPOINT MENT the right segment?’ The segment in general is a SUSSANNE KHAN very attractive one and it has joined YOO, the international design company, founded by international will grow over the years property entrepreneur John Hitchcox and Philippe Starck, as Creative Director. to come. For me, the main Khan, an influential interior designer and tastemaker, obtained an Associate Art question has always been, Degree in Interior Design from Brooks College, Long Beach, California. She runs ‘Is it the right segment for Rolls-Royce? The Charcoal Project, a lifestyle store, and is involved in numerous design projects. Does Rolls-Royce fit into With YOO, Khan will launch a yet undisclosed venture at the end of the year. that segment?’” On her new role, she says, “Together, I hope to offer a new dimension in — TorsTen Müller- creativity to the global market. India is rich in style, structure and material and the ÖtvÖS, Chief Executive world is now ready to explore these intricately.” Meanwhile, John Hitchcox, YOO’s Officer, Rolls-Royce Motor founder, believes this association is a result of the evolution of the business. He Cars, on their plans to build an all-terrain SUV. says, “This partnership creates a unique opportunity to promote contemporary Indian design across the world. Khan brings enormous experience and talent to the collaboration and we see great potential in this.” yoo.com

he London Business School and Walpole “Unit growth is what Thave launched their second MBA Programme drives free cash flow Luxe MBA launch in Luxury Management. The programme will and perpetuates share leverage London Business School’s rigorous repurchases. It’s what investors are MBA curriculum, offering workshops and clamouring for.” mentoring by industry stalwarts such as — WilliaM CroW Jonathan Akeroyd, CEO of Alexander McQueen; Analyst, Raymond Michael Ward, managing director of Harrods; James & Associates, and Mark Henderson, chair of the London commenting on how Business School programme and chairman investors want to see Starwood mimic Marriott of Gieves & Hawkes. The course curriculum and Hilton Worldwide focuses on knowledge and skill development in Holdings in growing hotel a fast-moving business environment, looking at rooms, and hotels, at a faster clip. topics such as ‘Managing the Organisation’ and ‘Engaging with the World.’ london.edu

[ 6 ] BLACKBOOK | MARCH 2015 Gallery MUMBAI DIARY

LUXE SPY Our columnist-around-town reports on luxury happenings across the country

asala Library hosted a dazzling evening Mwith the who’s who of the culinary industry, to celebrate veteran chef, author and tastemaker Jiggs Kalra’s four decades in hospitality. Hosted by his son, restaurateur Zorawar, the party continued till the wee hours of the morning. As the contemporary Indian fine dining restaurant The bridal rendezvous grows from strength to strength, Zorawar is now focusing on taking the brand international. After 17 years, the Bridal Asia exhibition halts at Mumbai By Neeti Mehra

aving skipped the country’s financial capital for years, Bridal Asia finally trots into Mumbai, the third Indian city after Delhi and Kolkata. One of the biggest bridal events in Asia, it will be held at Hthe city’s favourite luxe venue, the velodrome at the NSCI Club, from April 10 to 12. Conceived in 1999 by Divya Gurwara, founder & CEO of the Delhi-based company, the show was one of the first to debut at this scale in the lucrative segment. Her son, Dhruv, today takes on the mantle from her and is looking to scale up operations. “Bridal Asia Mumbai is the Spring/Summer edition of our exhibition. Our audience is primarily the brides gearing for a resort or a destination wedding,” says Gurwara, who feels that it’s the right time to explore the Mumbai and Pune wedding market. Though the event has been held in Pakistan as well as London, she has realised that India is where the cream of the business lies. “The most dynamic bridal market globally is India, and thus we are exploring the possibility of adding a few Indian cities to our calendar to reach out to a wider domestic audience,” she says. At the show expect a mix of leading couturiers such as Rohit Bal and Manish Arora, young designers like Swati Ubroi and Tanvi Kedia, jewellery designers Khanna Jewellers and Birdhichand Ghanshyamdas, as well as accessories, décor, travel Meanwhile, in the world of fashion, alliances companies and more. “The Indian wedding industry is pegged at a $25 billion and is growing at over 25 per continue to be forged between the unlikeliest of cent per annum,” says Gurwara. Her exhibitors are happy too. “Some participating brands in the upcoming partners. The latest one is between healthcare edition have been with us from the very first show. Bridal Asia must be generating enough business for them provider Apollo Hospitals in Hyderabad and to keep coming back,” she says. bridalasia.com • ace designer Tarun Tahiliani. With luxury invading the drudgery of hospitals, Apollo hopes to provide a better experience to patients and their families. Tahiliani’s flair can be seen across the lounge, in his choice of colours and fabrics, A decadent repast taking into consideration that it will be used round-the-clock. He says, “The first thought that The Renaissance Mumbai Convention Centre came to mind was that there was no reason why Hotel launches uber-luxe home catering By Riaan Jacob George a hospital lobby should not have good taste.” The cosy and welcoming interiors reflect the city of ining out is passé. At `one lakh per head, you can sup like a king in your own dining room, thanks to the Nizams. Now, if only other administrative Da new concept, R Chef @ Home. Introduced by the Renaissance Mumbai Convention Centre Hotel, and government o‡ces follow suit, as, first R Chef @ Home redefines the experience of food, and caters to the country’s elite. Conceptualised by the impressions do matter. hotel's dynamic Director of Operations, Nasir Shaikh, along with its Executive Chef, Sandeep Pande, the And finally, FENDI is debuting at the service, essentially a sit-down meal for no more than 10 people, takes luxury to a different level. Pande is Paris Haute Couture Fashion Week this July. It involved in every aspect of the meal, right from preparation and tableware to the music and lighting. The will present the Haute Fourrure Collection, in highlight is the 'rare single malt pairing dinner', where a seven-course meal is paired with highly prized single celebration of its creativity and craftsmanship malts. The single malts could range from a Glenfiddich Special Reserve 1976 or a Springbank 25 year old or a in fur since 1925. On the side, this collection also Rosebank 25 year old. The menu can be adapted according to the price one can pay, with a minimum spend hails Karl Lagerfeld’s 50 year collaboration with required. Shaikh says, “Our concept caters to a whole new segment of the market — people who can afford the fashion house, the longest relationship in such luxuries and are willing to go all out to offer their guests an unforgettable, personalised experience.” the fashion universe between a designer and a The service follows a farm-to-fork concept, where most of the ingredients come from the hotel’s vegetable label. “For me, fur is Fendi and Fendi is fur, fun garden located on the premises, whereever possible. “Even the desserts are sweetened with organic stevia, a furs! It is my Italian version of creativity,” says plant-based sugar substitute, and not sugar,” says Pande. Are there takers for this extravagant, albeit highly the irrepressible Lagerfeld, even though some customised meal? According to Shaikh, the service has already received a booking. Though the hotel does previous outings by FENDI have been hijacked not expect more than a few takers for this effort, these orders will prove to be more than su‡cient to sustain by anti-fur crusaders. But, the show must go on. • it. marriott.com •

[ 8 ] BLACKBOOK | MARCH 2015 Editor’s Pick Brooks Brothers

Get knotty with the Brooks Brothers’ Link Tie crafted from pure silk. Printed in Italy, the classic tie is 58 inches in length and has a width of 3¼ inches. brooksbrothers.com LUXE BUYS Naturally robust like the red Amit Aggarwal at AZA

wine it draws its name from, Amit Aggarwal’s immaculate gown marsala, the colour of the year, juxtaposes ruby red with a rich is a stylish tone. Celebrate its marsala to create a dramatic impact, guaranteed to make heads turn. various hues this spring. amitaggarwal.com; azafashions.com

M.A.C

A bold tint, M.A.C’s Rebel shade glides effortlessly over your lips, leaving a deep wine colour that suits every skin tone. maccosmetics.com Jaipur Jewels

An elegant design, these ruby and diamond earrings, in 18k carat gold, strike the perfect balance between tradition and style. jaipurjewels.in

Tod’s

The iconic Marlin Hyannisport loafers have a flexible rubber sole with slip- grip treading, making them ideal for yachting. Extremely comfortable, their structured style gently moulds to your feet. tods.com Pinakin

Made from solid Burma teak wood, the stately Victorian Corner Profile chair, draped in velvet and embellished with studs, will add a pop of colour to your home décor. pinakin.in

[ 10 ] BLACKBOOK | MARCH 2015 In Transit

designing clothes. I don’t follow primarily California. A lot of our fashion. I do my own thing. For new clients will dress up casually, “I don’t sell instance, while few Italian labels but they will still pair it with the design short and tight jackets, finest shoes. I believe fashion Italian luxury even the lapel of my jacket is is getting more comfortable, fashion. I very conservative. My focus is on but there is nothing like a man house Stefano tailoring. And thankfully, it has dressed in a sharp suit and a tie. Ricci steps into been appreciated. My consumer India in style is a man between the age of Some international menswear produce a 35—55. I produce a lifestyle that brands have adapted to the helps them dress up. Indian Indian market, they design men look very elegant in guru bandhgalas, for instance. At lifestyle.” By Neeti Mehra (bandhi) jackets, but they will some point down the line, will still need to wear a suit for a you incorporate a local touch in board meeting in Europe. your designs? FR: We’ve just arrived. Once n a crisp spring lifestyle brand, offering not only Can you tell us a little about the we get acclimatised to the afternoon, the fashion but also décor, interior brand’s involvement with the country I’m sure we will get affable Florentine and yacht design services, and ancient silk mill, Antico inspired to develop something designer Stefano more. Today, Stefano Ricci, Setificio Fiorentino? special. Our global strategy Ricci,O founder of the eponymous his wife Claudia and his two Filippo Ricci: This old silk factory doesn’t include seasonal fashion Italian luxury brand, hosted an sons, Niccolò, the CEO, and in Florence was founded by the shows. Instead, once a year or elegant luncheon at the Princess Filippo, the Creative Director Medici family in 1786. It is literally once every two years, we hold a Room in The Taj Mahal Palace in of the company, are involved in a factory of dreams, where fabric special event. Perhaps, the next Mumbai. The brand’s sprawling furthering its global ambitions. has been woven for over 300 time, we will consider hosting it flagship store is tucked away in The label has over 43 mono- years. We acquired it five years in India. the heritage wing of the hotel brand boutiques worldwide. and is divided into three broad Ricci’s credo of combining sections — menswear, home utmost comfort with unmatched décor and bespoke. Ricci, seated style has proven to be a lethal on a bright crocodile leather combination, “an addiction” as chair, surrounded by polished he describes it. briar root display cases and A staunch promoter of Italian travertine, feels right at ‘Made in Italy’, he is one of the home. He doesn’t hesitate when founders of Classico Italian, a he says, “I don’t sell fashion. I consortium that helps preserve produce a lifestyle.” the concept and prevent abuse of Stefano Ricci has evolved the label. He says he has very from a menswear brand into a high respect for ‘Made in flourishing luxury fashion and India,’ though he has no plans

Ricci is an ambassador of Italian style, not only in The store in Mumbai offers menswear, home décor Ricci is a strong advocate of a menswear but also other spheres of luxury and bespoke tailoring completely ‘Made in Italy’ production

to produce here in the near of loyal Indian clients. Having is going through a change — a ago from the Emilio Pucci family. How integral is digital where size doesn’t matter, future. For Ricci, Florence, set-up a store in Mumbai, it will change for the better. It is a very It was a big step for us. We are strategy and e-commerce can be put online. is a wellspring of inspiration take a minimum of three years important market for the future. still operating hand looms from to your growth? and he spends a lot of time in to build a momentum. I am not There lies an opportunity in the 1700s that produce only one FR: Technology and e-commerce What’s next for Africa, absorbing the natural a genius and I really need to everything; we just have to metre of fabric a day. A consumer will have a great impact on Stefano Ricci? surroundings of the continent. understand the country before I have the vision to recognise knows he has to wait for fabric our market and growth. We JM: In India, we are looking Having taken the plunge go ahead. But I haven’t observed it. And Stefano Ricci is 100 that is made here. But the wait is started our e-commerce at more stores, and as we find in India, Stefano Ricci, Filippo too many changes from when I per cent handmade in Italy by a privilege, as the creations are so operations nearly a year and a additional locations, we will Ricci and Jackie Manglani, first visited the country around experienced craftsmen. Wealthy unique and exceptional, and half ago and have good results. consider them. President, Stefano Ricci — India, 25 years ago. One thing I would people in India seek quality and form an integral part of our But there are certain products FR: We have one of our speak about how the brand will say is that India should not lose this is the market we would like Florentine heritage. we will not put online. flagship stores opening in Filippo Ricci Jackie Manglani navigate unchartered territory. its magic. to address with the brand. Especially those for which a Shanghai, as well as at other Creative Director, President, Do you believe dressing down is customer needs to visit the store locations across the globe. Stefano Ricci Stefano Ricci — India Is this the right time to enter Jackie Manglani: Yes. India has What is your impression becoming the new dressing up? to try it on or require a tailor to We will reach our target of 50 Furthering its global He believes that it is the the Indian market? been on the radar for a few years of men’s fashion, especially FR: Dressing down is something visit them at home. E-commerce stores around the world this ambitions, the brand will reach right time to enter Stefano Ricci: Our foray into and it is absolutely the right time in India? we’ve seen particularly with will remove the magic from the year. There is a lot boiling in a target of 50 stores globally. the market. the country was at the behest to enter the market. The country SR: I am extremely busy leaders of the new economy, experience. However, products the pot for us. •

[ 12 ] BLACKBOOK | MARCH 2015 MARCH 2015 | BLACKBOOK [ 13 ] Cover Story

How to create a world-class LUXURY DESTINATION At the sidelines of the World Sacred Spirit Festival, held within the magnificent Mehrangarh Fort, Maharaja Gaj Singh talks to Deepali Nandwani about the festival, why Jodhpur attracts global A-listers, and why India’s tourism policy should have its cultural roots and its reality as the oldest living civilsation in the world, at its core Image courtesy: Mehrangarh Museum Trust

The imposing Mehrangarh Fort is home to the Mehrangarh Museum Foundation, which organises global music and dance festivals HH Maharaja Gaj Singh II with his son, heir apparent, Yuvraj Shivraj Singh ji ot many realised when, and how, If you are aware of the sort of A-listers who Maharaja of Jodhpur Polo Cup, hosted by the thanks to his Oxford education, with the Jodhpur transitioned from being have travelled through Jodhpur, you know why premium brand from Chivas Regal, and the warmth and royal splendour that one associates the poor cousin of Jaipur, the he is saying that. It is, after all, the city where British Polo Day. with Indian royalty. He has worked like a man glamorous capital city of Rajasthan, supermodel Naomi Campbell decided to throw Across Jodhpur, artisans and craftsmen possessed by just one dream: to put Jodhpur on Ninto a vital destination in the global luxury a glittering birthday party — among her invited have set up shops that not just sell crafts, the global map. traveller’s itinerary. While the world was hailing guests were Kate Moss, Vivienne Westwood, precious jewellery, textiles, and beautiful the Jaipur-Delhi-Agra troika as India’s ultimate Eva Herzigova, John Galliano and Demi Moore. pieces of handcrafted furniture to enthused Jodhpur today is seen as a destination for the travel destinations, Maharaja Gaj Singh, the In the past, Christian Bale and Christopher travellers, but also export them to several discerning traveller, much more than Jaipur is. scion of the Rathore clan, the erstwhile royal Nolan have stayed at the Umaid Bhawan Palace European countries. Besides, Jodhpur is Do you agree with that view? family of Jodhpur, was quietly transforming his Hotel, the gorgeous art deco-style palace hotel home to a range of luxury boutique hotels To a large extent, yes. Nothing much was beautiful city into a world-class destination, in run by the Taj Group. — from Raas, a cool boutique property in the happening in Jodhpur in the 1970s. Jaipur, which music, arts, heritage and centuries-old Maharaja Gaj Singh was among the first shadow of the Mehrangarh Fort, to Umaid which is the capital of modern-day Rajasthan, craftsmanship coalesce into a winsome whole. of Rajasthani royalty to pioneer the heritage Bhawan and the classic heritage hotel of developed really quickly, and then Udaipur Today it is considered among the trendiest and palace hotel category in India. A part of Ranbanka Palace. came up. At one point, they occupied larger destinations in India; its annual calendar the sprawling palace continues to be his family Baudin says that unlike Jaipur, which is space in the mind of the tourists. But not being of events is not just glamorous but attracts residence, while a third part is a museum. overrun by badly constructed buildings, Jodhpur a capital proved to be good for us. Jaipur faces famous and powerful people from across the Last year, the English perfume house continues to be charming and old world. “It large scale migration because it is the capital world. At the World Sacred Spirit Festival Penhaligon introduced a fragrance inspired by is modern, glamorous, but also Rajasthani city and because it is closest to Delhi. Jodhpur’s which I attended, I ran into top executives from Jodhpur, which was named Vaara by Maharaja in its essence. Besides, it is a perfect place for distance from Delhi has helped us maintain the Ford Foundation, designers, musicians, Gaj Singh, after his granddaughter. Bertrand someone looking for different experiences, or some sort of exclusivity. entrepreneurs, and travellers for whom a Duchaufour, a high-profile perfumer credited for a luxury entrepreneur like me, who wants Having said that, despite our efforts, holiday in Jodhpur is everything they ever with several blockbuster perfumes such as to not just experience the royal lifestyle but Jodhpur is seeing uncontrolled growth without imagined India to be — exotic and beautiful. Christian Dior’s Fahrenheit, Fahrenheit Zero conduct business that’s focused on Indian arts any thought. Even if there is thought, it’s being But it is also everything they did not expect it and Dune, and Givenchy’s Amarigeand is the and crafts.” implemented the wrong way. Development has to be — luxurious and royal. In the past, the nose behind this fragrance. He says that the At the heart of this transformation to be there, but the character and heritage of the World Sacred Spirit Festival had been headlined gardens of the Bal Samand Palace, one of is Maharaja Gaj Singh, who, over the past city should not be lost. by names like Sting and Mick Jagger, besides a Bapji’s (as Maharaja Gaj Singh is also known) few decades, has painstakingly carved out a host of talented musicians from countries as far several palaces, has provided the ingredients for niche for this ancient Rajasthani city, and the What is the reason behind the revival of apart as Iran, Egypt, America, France, Bhutan the fragrance, which retails at 130 pounds for regions that once came under the Jodhpur Jodhpur’s fortunes? and Turkey. 100ml and is also available in the Mehrangarh princely state, on India’s tourism map. He There are several reasons. To understand Among the travellers I encountered was Museum shop. has spurred conservationists and culture them, you need to go back in the past and Frenchman Adrien Baudin, a Parisian product Jodhpur also has its buzzing polo season theorists to work with him on restoration understand the place Jodhpur occupied in designer who works with craftsmen from and attracts international polo players and and preservation projects for the several forts, Rajathan’s history. During my grandfather’s Jodhpur for his line of high-end furniture that aficionados. Miniature paintings in the palaces and monuments that pepper the time, the Marwar region, in which Jodhpur retails in stores across Europe. He says, “The museum of the architecturally magnificent city and the desert around. The Mehrangarh falls, was well-developed. My grandfather first time I came to India, I went to Delhi and Mehrangarh Fort, that rises 400 ft above the Museum Trust that he has set up, works with was fond of flying and it was the first city to Jaipur. Both are interesting cities to a European. ground level and towers over the Blue City, not just artisans and craftsmen to produce have an international airport in India. We had But Jodhpur, to me, is the real deal. It has a reveal that the Rathores, the reigning family of sleeker, more modern versions of Rajasthani a polo team that played globally. Then, after wealth of art and craftsmanship; it is more the Jodhpur princely state, first played polo with crafts, but also to conceptualise music, dance my father (Maharaja Hanwant Singh) died in exotic than its neighbour, and it attracts the the Mughals, and then with the British. The city and culture festivals. 1952, the city’s fortune was on a decline. I was right kind of traveller — someone who is now has a polo team and in the polo season, At home with international jetsetters and still a child, and there was no leadership after interested in experiencing Indian hospitality, from December to end February, it hosts several the fashionable crowd, Maharaja Gaj Singh my father. A lot of development focus shifted to and its arts and crafts.” important matches — such as the Royal Salute combines the best of his western education, Jaipur and Agra.

[ 14 ] BLACKBOOK | MARCH 2015 MARCH 2015 | BLACKBOOK [ 15 ] I came back to Jodhpur after graduating From the day it was established, MFT has forests. It is a very rich country. But India is also important to engage the young population in makes you feel comfortable, makes you feel from Oxford in 1970. The first 10 years went been a generous patron of arts and music, and the oldest living civilization, and culture forms preserving India’s cultural wealth. elated. To me, luxury is some free time when into restructuring, creating companies, trusts, has turned Mehrangarh Fort into a centre for the bedrock of this civilization. We can offer I can listen to good music, spend time in wide in legal battles, etc. Eventually, the government research and conservation. Within the fort, we beautiful cultural experiences to travellers that What is the future of heritage tourism open spaces, be with friends, and have a drink. changed, and the new government was more lay great emphasis on visitor experience. can connect them to our heritage and our arts. in India? favourably disposed and offered me a posting as The world traveller imagines India to be what As I have mentioned above, our country is Which is your favourite suite in Umaid a High Commissioner to Trinidad and Tobago, Do you believe that music and cultural Rajasthan is: warm, hospitable and colourful. known in the entire world for its rich and Bhawan Palace Hotel? the surrounding English speaking islands. So, in festivals like the World Sacred Spirit Festival In India, every city has a character, unique heritage structures. It is a matter of The Maharani Suite. It’s spectacular with its 1978, I took my family and went to Trinidad. We are important to attract a different kind of, a unique values, and is rich in culture, craft and pride for us that visitors from across the world original art deco styling and furniture. In my were there for two years. Before leaving, I signed more discerning traveller, to Jodhpur? architectural heritage. It is important that we visit our country to learn more about it. This is youth, my mother used to live there and I lived up with one of the leading hotel companies to Yes, I do believe that. We have so many recognise these elements and work towards something that can never die or whose charm in the opposite suite, in the Maharaja Suite; operate the palace hotel. With professional English perfume talented musicians in Barmer and Nagaur. The preserving them. So, once the core values have can never vanish. Heritage tourism is crucial both are like apartments with a kitchen, dining management, it grew from then on. Umaid Manganiyars and the Langas are globally known been identified, one needs to communicate and can be Indian tourism’s lifeline. rooms and sitting rooms. Bhawan Palace hotel was first run by ITC Group, house Penhaligon has as among the best musicians in the world, and these values to the people. and now we are associated with The Taj Group, have collaborated with musicians from across I personally feel that this communication What is your definition of luxury? You have a beautiful space outside Umaid which has upgraded it to a large extent. introduced a perfume the globe. Nagaur is the second largest Sufi needs to begin at school level. It is very Luxury is an art of fine existence. Luxury is what Bhawan dedicated to your love for vintage Over the years, we have worked with centre in Rajasthan, after Ajmer. We began the the people of Jodhpur, with the artisans, inspired by Jodhpur sufi festival in Nagaur several years ago, and it the craftsmen, the musicians, to build a attracted quite a varied crowd. But we wanted The sumptuous Umaid Bhawan Palace hotel has been upgraded and is operated by the Taj Group contemporary Jodhpur that preserves its past to attract more people and different kinds of and its heritage. We have also developed in Ahhichatragarh (recently shortlisted for the Aga people. Now, the World Sacred Spirit Festival other ways. Jodhpur is an education hub with a Khan Award for Architecture), besides several is held in two cities — Nagaur and Jodhpur. It lot of colleges and universities located here. other properties that are with the government is curated by Alain (Weber), its artistic director, The hotels and the museum came almost like Mandore Chatris, Panchkunda Chatris and and attracts world musicians. This year, we have at the same time. We set up the Mehrangarh Sursagar, are managed by the trust. musicians from the African continent, Iran, Museum Trust (MFT) within the fort, which I believe that as a premier institution Bhutan, France… was also restored. I would say the fort was in the field, MFT should lead by example We also host two other festivals — the among the first in India to adopt a Conservation and provide further momentum to the Jodhpur Flamenco and Gypsy festival, which Master Plan. conservation and restoration movement in brings together the flamenco and gypsy Within Mehrangarh Fort, we have a crafts Rajasthan, and indeed all of India. During traditions, and the Rajasthan International bazaar where artisans are given direct access to the initial years of the establishment of the Folk Music Festival (RIFF). All of these offer customers. MFT works with artisans to develop trust, the challenge for us was to meet the unique cultural experiences. Combine that with high quality products that reflect the region’s expectations of the audiences and present our rich crafts and arts, and our tradition of craftsmanship and its heritage, and they are culture in a manner that is engaging and hospitality, and you know why Rajasthan is in sold in the fort store. Once, the craftsmen meaningful. Mehrangarh museum has one such a unique position. and jewellers catered to the local market and of the most important and best preserved domestic tourists. Now, most of them export. collection of fine and applied arts from the What would your advice be for India There is a global demand for their work. Rajput-Mughal period of Indian history, during to leverage its cultural, craft and MFT also works on other conservation which the Rathore rulers of Jodhpur maintained architectural heritage? and restoration projects. The Nagaur Fort, close links with the Mughal emperors. India has a lot to offer — beaches, mountains,

The World Sacred Spirit Festival (WSSF) attracts musicians from across the WSSF, curated by Alain Weber, is held in Nagaur and Jodhpur world. Seen here is Nour Ensemble with Divana

BLACKBOOK MARCH 2015 MARCH 2015 BLACKBOOK [ 16 ] | IMAGE CoUrTESY: TAJ IMAGE LIBrArY | [ 17 ] The Haute Seat THE LUXURY GUIDE

Clockwise from top left: Yohji Yamamoto’s esoteric style Jodhpur plays host to innumerable festivals such as the Flamenco and Gypsy festival and the Rajasthan International Folk Music Festival. appeals to Nagy; Works by LN From Left to Right: Langas of Rajasthan and qawwals of Jodhpur performing at the 8th World Sacred Spirit Festival Tallur — The Bell and the Cat, Path Finder and obituary, 2013 — displayed at Nature Morte; cars. Tell us about the collection. and treatment, and neuro-rehabilitation of A poster of the Academy Award I love all the cars in our collection as I have head and spine injury victims. nominated film Mr Turner; Nagy been associated with them since my youth. My Gallerist and would like to live in Rome one day; Hotel Okura Tokyo is a grandmother’s Cadillac, which I inherited after What other projects are you working on? artist Peter luxury gem in the heart of Tokyo; “We’re putting her demise, was recently restored for the Cartier A lot needs to be consolidated. Apart from the Nagy loves Prada shoes; Pasta is up small, natural Show in Delhi. main palace hotel under Taj’s management, Nagy is inspired his favourite comfort food I have formed a joint venture with another by great What is the cause closest to your heart? group. We’re putting up small, natural habitats habitats and I founded the Indian Head Injury Foundation and running smaller heritage hotels. I am also architecture, is running smaller after my son’s accident on the polo field some developing residential properties on Chittar obsessed with years ago. It has been charged with a mission Hill (on which Umaid Bhawan Palace is located), visiting art heritage hotels” very close to my heart. IHIF’s mission is to and we are adding a hospital and a school. We foster the development of a comprehensive already operate a girls’ school, but we need a museums, and brain trauma care system in India that includes co-educational day school, and a professionally prevention through awareness, effective managed hospital that offers training facilities has a weakness provision of pre-hospital care, timely diagnosis for nurses and medical students. • for Prada shoes

The Maharani Suite at Umaid Bhawan Palace Hotel is his favourite suite

migrant from New What does luxury What has been your most What inspires you? Paris. I was very fond of York, where he mean to you? extravagant purchase? Great architecture the Dasaprakash Hotel in had co-founded Quality — in materials The biggest investments used as a container to Chennai that is sadly gone and subsequently and thought. I’ve made are in my gallery, display objects. now, having made way shutteredA gallery Nature Nature Morte. for a residential project. Morte in the East Village, The most attractive trait The travel essentials that (hotelokura.co.jp/tokyo/en/; Peter Nagy revived the in a person is… The last book and film you never leave home hotellocarno.com/eng/hotel. space in New Delhi in 1997. A sense of humour. you loved… without are… htm; lutetia-lediscret.fr) Founder and co-director of I enjoyed reading A Strange The only thing I pack is a Nature Morte, a commercial Which labels define your Kind of Paradise: India tiny silver statue of Lord Tell us about your gallery and a curatorial sartorial style? through Foreign Eyes Ganesha that I bought in favourite comfort food experiment, Nagy has My favourite designers written by Sam Miller, Udaipur on my first visit and tipple? championed young artists are Comme Des Garçon, which is an eclectic to India. I carry it with me I relish pasta paired with a and experimental art forms. Dries van Noten and Yohji historical travelogue. My every time I travel out of Sauvignon Blanc. A graduate of Parsons School Yamamoto. current favourite film is Mr India. So far, it has always of Design, he was active as an For shoes I am partial to Turner, directed by Mike got me back safely. Your next holiday artist in the 80s and his works Prada. (comme-des-garcons. Leigh, an exploration of the destination would be? have found their way into the com; driesvannoten.be; last quarter century of the Which are your Portugal. I have travelled Whitney Museum in New yohjiyamamoto.co.jp/en/; life of the eccentric British favourite hotels? across Spain, so I am very York, the Centre Pompidou prada.com) painter, JMW Turner. There are a few. Hotel curious to know more in Paris, the Tate Modern Okura Tokyo, a luxury about the other regions in in London, and Chemould Looking back, what has Your biggest shopping grand hotel, situated in the Iberian Peninsula. Gallery in Mumbai, among been your most memorable indulgence is? the heart of downtown others. A prolific writer vacation? Jackets. You can never Tokyo; Hotel Locarno in Which other city would on the subject of Indian It is hard to choose. But have too many. Rome with its the belle you like to live and work contemporary art, he sums among my most memorable époque birdcage lift, in and why? up his bursts of creative vacations have been a week- How do you spend your crumbling terrazzo floor I’d like to live in Rome expression as “when it’s good, long temple tour in Kyoto, free time? and antique furniture; and for the weather, the it’s really good and when it’s island hopping in Greece and I’m obsessed with visiting the historic Art Nouveau trees and the colour bad, I go to pieces.” my first visit to India. art museums. style Hôtel Lutetia in of the buildings.•

[ 18 ] BLACKBOOK | MARCH 2015 MARCH 2015 | BLACKBOOK [ 19 ] Point of View

whereby the judge ordered the ISPs that were selling particles (unpredictably placed markings, such and advertising fake Cartier products to bar access to as numbers, layers and colours, not visible to the counterfeiting websites. While French courts have been human eye), serialised barcodes, track and trace COUNTERFEITS implementing this very e€cient strategy for years, in systems (which use codes to link products to database Why do fakes flourish and what does it take to the UK this was a first. Legal experts are now thinking tracking systems), etc. that a EU-wide solution, such as orders against ISPs, Technology companies such as Asly (asly.co), a fight the counterfeit menace? By Neeti Mehra should be implemented. This will be a huge move. text-based solution to combat counterfeiting in the Middle East, as well as Envisional (envisional.com) lmost every street corner So, what is the best way to deal with this menace? and Netnames (netnames.com), are embracing this in India’s major metros has Technology can definitely offer some useful tools battle with a passion. The latter two companies detect, ramshackle shops selling to fight against counterfeits and fakes. A preventive prevent and fight online counterfeits and piracy and badly produced fakes, be it measure is to protect fashion and luxury products seem to be at the forefront of this burgeoning, but much- accessories or apparel. Yet through authentication techniques. Protection needed industry of services dedicated to fighting this luxury brands haven’t woken of products can be re-enforced through technical menace online. up to the challenge they pose to Left: NetNames specialises solutions, allowing the authentication of products, their carefully crafted exclusive in detecting, preventing such as terahertz spectroscopy developed by UK’s How can governments and policy makers work closer image. Counterfeiting, the specific term in intellectual and fighting against online National Physical Laboratory (npl.co.uk), which may with luxury maisons to prevent counterfeits at the propertyA (IP), that refers to any infringement or counterfeiting and piracy be used by customs soon, or taggant fingerprinting manufacturing and the distribution level? unauthorised use of any IP asset owned by a third Below: Fake Louis Vuitton wallets (uniquely coded microscopic materials that A very important aspect are awareness campaigns that party, is costing brands many millions every year in lost being sold on the street are verified from a database), encrypted micro- luxury and fashion brands, as well as law enforcement

DEFEATING revenues and costs incurred in stopping such products from being sold, marketed and imported in key markets. Annabelle Gauberti, the founding partner of Crefovi, an entertainment and media law firm for the creative industries, focusing on the fashion and luxury goods sector, with o€ces in London and Paris, tells us what it takes to fight plagiarisation that’s rampant across luxury brands in a country like India. Gauberti, than real products, but not always. Therefore, low- also the president of the International Association of quality products bearing the same logo or brand as Lawyers for Creative Industries (ialci), believes that the real products, leads to brand dilution. Also, some lobbyists are ineffective and technology will be critical counterfeit products are downright dangerous — a to eliminate fakes. cause of concern for the health and safety of consumers. For example, counterfeited perfumes, creams and What factors should luxury brands take heed of cosmetics may very well be damaging to the health when they make an international foray, especially of those who wear them, because they do not comply into countries such as China or India, where the with stringent regulations such as the European Union enforcement of law is lax? cosmetics products regulation. Finally, infringing Brands should register their trademarks and designs products can be real products, made for the luxury as soon as possible, in particular in China, but also in maisons but sold on “grey markets”, where they should India. Experts say that 80 to 90 per cent of worldwide not be sold because the retail location does not fit with counterfeits are manufactured in China and lament the luxe and exclusive image of the products. These that the Chinese government turns a blind eye on this parallel imports also damage the goodwill and brand lucrative industry. image of the luxury maison. One can learn from the Chinese market. Many Thus, luxury brands must actively enforce owners do not act quickly enough in relation to and protect their IP rights and fight against registering their trademarks in the country, which counterfeiting. If they aren’t doing anything, they are therefore gives ample time to Chinese trolls to register losing because their brand and trademarks are being that trademark on the territory. When a luxury brand negatively impacted. tries to enter the market, it discovers that its trademark has already been registered by a Chinese natural person In the digital world, issues like cybersquatting or legal entity. Action is being taken in Chinese courts and advertising of fake goods are rampant. How to cancel trademarks registered by trolls, but to no significant has this problem become? avail, as most of the time the courts refuse to cancel Cyber-counterfeiting has become massive and those trademarks. endemic, and is fuelled by millions of websites. Legal Annabelle Gauberti It is therefore essential for luxury brands to have solutions to fight counterfeiting websites can be slow Founding Partner, Crefovi, a strong IP strategy in place, both in the territories and very di€cult to enforce. How does one track down and President, International where they manufacture their goods as well as in the a few Chinese individuals behind myriads of such Association of Lawyers for countries in which they sell their goods. websites active across the whole world?. A very e€cient Creative Industries legal solution that is on the rise, is to force Internet She believes that luxury brands Apart from the financial loss, how concerned should Service Providers to bar access to certain websites in must actively protect their a brand be about the intangible impact of intellectual the territories in which they provide internet services. intellectual property rights and property infringement? The Richemont Group and Cartier won a decision fight against counterfeiting. Counterfeited products are often of lesser quality against several UK ISPs in the last quarter of 2014,

[ 20 ] BLACKBOOK | MARCH 2015 MARCH 2015 | BLACKBOOK [ 21 ] The Indian fashion industry’s take Trends on counterfeiting

oday’s runway fashion is tomorrow’s high-street rip-offs. While brands like Zara have been slammed Tfor their designer knock-offs, closer home, copies of veteran designers are easily available online and in stores at a fraction of the price. Even young and upcoming designers have not been spared. Masaba Gupta, whose trademark prints have been duplicated even before the ink has dried on the fabric, launched a diffusion line “Masaba Lite” to cull this menace. “Why buy a fake when you can get the original at the same price?” Having missed the digital says the designer on her website. Indian designers are devising their own way to curb the menace, like increasing the complexity of their works, or, they ignore the situation. Many brands, both Indian and revolution, luxury brands international, on being contacted preferred not to participate in the story. are now scrambling to Masaba Gupta catch the mobile “All designers have to deal with the market plagiarising your work extensively. In the past, I app wave have found that people — dealers and small retailers — have ripped off my collection within a few days of a fashion week. So, now I have made things dicult for them. I use more than By Riaan Jacob George one technique in a garment, I often layer my garments in ways unimaginable. The process and the entire look is so complex that small retailers and fashion houses do not know where to begin. They can’t dissect the different kinds of techniques I have used.” TARUN TAHILIANI Director, Tahiliani Design

“Many of my assistants in the past have taken my designs. However, they can only take away what they have seen me create. They don’t know what is in my mind and what I will create in the future. I have learnt to move on. I have become wiser, more mature, and have learnt to swallow my ego and be nice to people who have worn my copies. It’s prevalent across the country. Farah Khan Ali is the best jewellery designer in the country today. I have seen her work really hard. But her designs are instantly copied.” obile apps are literally tying Luxury brands in India, too, are well aware luxury brands into knots. A of the advantages of going mobile. Luxe mall MANAV GANGWANI favourite among geeks is the DLF Emporio is focusing on their innovative Designer and Director, Marketing and Communications, Infinite Luxury Brands Hermès Tie Break app. Launched mobile app. Neha Lidder, Head Marketing, lastM year, it helps you tie the perfect knot and DLF Emporio, says, “Today, with the change in throws in a couple of interactive games that customer profile, increased disposable incomes | with inputs from Deepali Nandwani and Nishant Bangar | use the brand’s signature silk ties. A perfect and purchasing power, there is a need for distraction for boring board meetings, the luxury brands to explore digital platforms such focus here is on consumer engagement, rather as mobile apps to engage, entertain and inform than notching up sales. a«uent consumers.” The DLF Emporio app agencies, lobby groups and government departments brands. What homework needs to be done for such The rapid transformation of online retail will provide a seamless shopping experience to “To prevent organise to better inform members of the public. One partnerships? and its increased dynamism has turned the ‘in- customers. Features will include quick search of the most “punchy” awareness campaigns was the Large luxury conglomerates such as LVMH and Kering shop’ experience upside down. Online access options across the mall, information on latest any type of film crushing thousands of fake Cartier watches by an have dedicated IP legal teams, where IP specialists has shifted screens — from desktops and events and launches, and other updates. army tank, in Place Vendôme, in Paris. Luxury lobbying check and audit local partners, sometimes conducting laptops to smartphones. To ensure a seamless E-commerce portal Exclusively.in, which problems with organisations, such as Comité Colbert in France, raids and search orders in places where some suspicion experience to customers on small screens, the has recently been bought over by snapdeal.com, Altagamma in Italy and The Walpole in the UK, lobby of counterfeiting acts has come up. downloadable mobile app was created. Today, currently has a mobile site, but the company is local partners to fight against counterfeiting, without much success, But to prevent any type of problems with local players in the luxury business, many who working on a mobile-app that will be specific to I must add. partners, the best option, sometimes, is to not have missed the digital boom, are entering this fast the Indian market. Sunjay Guleria, its CEO and sometimes, the Fighting against counterfeiting is a priority in any local partners. It may be safer to set up a whole growing segment. Top: The downloadable mobile app is an effective tool Co-Founder, says that the website’s upcoming for luxury brands to connect with their customers France, other jurisdictions, such as the US, have put distribution network in a particular territory, instead mobile app will offer a host of engagement best option is Below: Snaplion has designed mobile apps for Indian in place robust procedures to stop counterfeiters from of entering into franchise and distribution agreements An APPropriate strategy designers like Rajesh Pratap Singh, Gauri & Nainika, options for their customers, especially in the selling their products on national soil. However, it is with local partners that cannot be trusted. So, how effective are these applications? Italian and Pia Pauro to not have any worth noting that the fight against counterfeiting is luxury giant Gucci’s mobile app features much less of a priority in countries such as Italy (which At the consumer level, what can be done to stem fashion along with a gamut of upscale video local partners. It is also a production centre of counterfeit garments, demand? content related to art, travel, design and representing 20 per cent of all garments manufactured I don’t know why anyone would prefer to buy a lifestyle. Besides that, it also enables live may be safer to in this country in 2003) and the UK (which, to the own counterfeited product, as opposed to the real thing, as streaming of Gucci fashion shows, photo admittance of the UK Intellectual Property O€ce, lacks far as luxury products goes! However, it does happen galleries as well as an international store guide. set up a whole su€cient resources and budgets to tackle “IP crime” in and I suppose that aspiring buyers of the real luxury Meanwhile, Chanel’s app gives users regular a systematic and large-scale manner). There is not just product may want to buy the counterfeited version of updates from the brand, besides offering videos distribution one solution to fight against this. A range of solutions it, as they cannot yet buy the real ones. of its runway shows and look books. network in — legal and non-legal — can be used. It is down to Awareness campaigns, such as the ones mentioned The ability to customise is also critical to the luxury company to decide, in accordance with its above, may also “change” the behaviour of certain garner eyeballs. In the US, ‘Rent the Runway’ a particular budget, how best to implement its anti-counterfeiting consumers. Also, more and more post o€ces are is a highly popular multi-designer brand rental policy and strategy. opening packs containing goods delivered by online website, whose mobile app is particularly territory” retailers to retail consumers and sizing goods which are interesting because it has a new feature that In certain cases, local partners have been accused of obvious or possible counterfeits. The retail consumer enables users to view collections, create a fraud or other unacceptable practices by international will neither get their money back nor their fake goods! • wardrobe and rent outfits directly.

[ 22 ] BLACKBOOK | MARCH 2015 MARCH 2015 | BLACKBOOK [ 23 ] Amping up fashion

The fashion segment’s association with the digital world promises to be a game changer bridalwear space, such as jewellery, clothes Jabong.com’s cross Fashionable apps and customisation. The next stop? Users can In India, only a select few companies make or the world of fashion, digital alliances are expect a wedding registry on the mobile app. mobile apps for Android, Windows and iPhones, platform mobile the norm. Few months ago, Jabong.com, Even India’s fashion and retail online and even fewer app developers understand the F hosted a unique show — India Online Fashion giant, Jabong.com is in the process of luxury market. apps have been Week that opened doors to the next generation optimising its reach through this medium. Nikhil Sama, Co-Founder and CEO, of designers through a crowdsourcing platform. Jabong.com launched its app across platforms Snaplion, a company which specialises in downloaded by And the recently launched talent-based digital (iOS, Android and Windows) in the second working with luxury brands, believes that content platform, #Fame, launched School of quarter of 2014. Praveen Sinha, Managing going mobile is imperative. Their impressive five million people Style. This concept focuses on hunting emerging Director and Founder, Jabong.com, elaborates, client roster reveals an interesting trend — talent through crowdsourcing, using a network “The apps give users an on-the-move and Indian fashion brands are launching apps with approximately. of bloggers and influencers to connect with their superior experience to shop from our wide a vengeance. Designers Rajesh Pratap Singh, target audience. Meanwhile, Lakmé Fashion Week catalogue of fashion and luxury products. Gauri & Nainika, Pia Pauro and Payal Pratap Today, close to 40 SUMMER/RESORT 2015, has partnered with The iOS and Windows apps were picked up have interactive apps designed by Snaplion. Askme, an online consumer platform, which has by Apple and Microsoft respectively for best Even a legacy brand like Ritu Kumar has per cent of their been downloaded 10 million times in the past seven apps in the shopping category last year.” For entered the fray and the label’s mobile app months. The portal, Askmeonfashion.com, will the company, an incredible five million people allows users to try on different pieces from her business comes from be positioned as a premium digital destination, approximately have downloaded the apps. latest collection. featuring opinion leaders and consumers of “Today, close to 40 per cent of our business this segment Says Sama, “Mobile apps are being fashion. Finally, FDCI’s alliance with retail giant comes from apps,” says Sinha. extensively downloaded and used across the Amazon for India Fashion Week will disrupt the world of fashion as we know it. Jabong.com believes that to offer bespoke solutions on apps one needs to invest ample resources and justify the ROI

The Tie Break application developed by Hermès is entertaining and informative “Mobile apps are being extensively downloaded and used across the globe. From a brand point of view, they are the most “Consumers are asking for important platform available for personalised products and customer engagement.” experiences at every step. NIKHIL SAMA It is only a matter of time Co-Founder & CEO, Snaplion that this aspect is covered DLF Emporio’s soon by smartphone apps.” to be launched globe. From a brand point of view, they are mobile app will help shoppers navigate the most important platform available for NEHA LIDDER, Head Marketing, DLF Emporio the mall easily customer engagement. For example, a fashion brand can live stream their fashion shows to app users. In addition to this form of live branding, there are other elements like push Going bespoke But the process of customising a garment space. “Shoppers of luxury goods usually have notifications and alerts, which eventually lead A mobile experience should be no different still poses some limitations to the mobile-app iPads or other high-end tablets and hence we you to purchase online or drive you to a store.” from other digital ones. Guleria adds, “When it interface, and some are taking a wait-and-watch wanted to cater to that audience right from the With their immense capacity to drive sales, one comes to ethnic Indian garments, it is all about approach. Sinha says, “Customising luxury start,” he says. can no longer afford to ignore them. customisation and bespoke ensembles. The purchases requires additional operational Eventually, luxe brands cannot As the experience of buying changes, advantage with apps is that you can actually capacities. One needs to invest in resources to escape going mobile. Adds Sinha, “People customer expectations will also evolve. Luxury extend the in-store bespoke experience to offer bespoke products. While we have been are now spending more time browsing companies will need to cater to those demands your mobile phone. The options could range evaluating this opportunity, we may jump apps on their phones than visiting sites on even in the smartphone segment. Sama says that from scheduling appointments in the store to onto the bandwagon only if we see some their laptops and desktops. Though this brands need to ensure that in reality, the process actually giving your measurements, as well traction coming from this segment.” might not result in a sale, it still counts as is as close as possible to a brick-and-mortar as services like customising the size and fit. brand engagement, as users browse, add one. For instance, companies need to offer Then we can also offer style guides and video Driving sales products to their wishlist and share them on quick delivery times and easy returns. He adds, content. The idea is to create a tailormade Can luxury brands convert a mobile-app visitor social networks.” Once they have made up “When you use an app to shop from user experience.” to a paying customer? Sinha says, “Selling their minds or find a good deal on the product, a high-end international fashion brand, Lidder says that DLF Emporio’s aim is to luxury goods on an app requires a superior user they buy it. you have the possibility of ordering a vast start a conversation with their patrons and to experience on a small screen. We have always While some might be cynical about selection of clothes. You can try on everything make the brands accessible to customers in been very conscious about providing the best the effectiveness of mobile-apps to luxury and keep an assortment of what you their homes and o„ces. “Consumers are asking user experience for luxury goods shoppers retail, Guleria is convinced that they like and return the rest with effortless for personalised products and experiences with each version of the app.” Jabong goes a offer manifold benefits. “An app is a very ease. That is how I envisage the mobile app at every step. It is only a matter of time that step further and by offering a tablet version of powerful tool. It offers a 360-degree shopping experience to evolve to.” this aspect is covered by smartphone apps,” the mobile-app with a richer product viewing immersive experience. And brands only stand she says. experience, which is essential in the luxury to gain from this.” •

[ 24 ] BLACKBOOK | MARCH 2015 MARCH 2015 | BLACKBOOK [ 25 ] The Last Impression

Shivam Punjya is challenging the very similar. It has been a learning curve, for the artisans, “Ethical practices will traditional perception of ‘Made Fashion without integrity me and my team. in India’ with his contemporary The morality of While the label’s focus is on ethical garments, it womenswear label, behno. is not sustainable, says is also equally committed to centered building become a large part of The San Francisco native is Shivam Punjya, founder partnerships and networks ethically. In emerging and existing an alumnus of UC Berkeley the future, we will work with non-profit and Duke University. While and CEO of ethical organisations and include traditional brands, as important researching on women’s health fashion label, behno textiles in our designs. In many developing in India, he travelled across the FASHION countries, artisan communities are issues enter our country, discovering its rich working closely with passionate textile heritage. What struck him individuals who are championing their design conversation” was the dismal reality behind behno’s Fall/Winter 2015 collection is craft and striving to expose them to it — though nearly 90 per cent inspired by Le Corbusier’s architecture the global marketplace. For us, there of India’s garment factories are could be no better way to work with powered by women, in some craftsmen, than within the systems places these artisans are earning that are already in place. tech-savvy consumers are connecting with less than $1 per day to produce It is also so encouraging to see brands and are interacting with them in beautiful hand-spun, hand- consumer engagement increasing. With more meaningful ways. Millennials are woven textiles. over two billion millennials across the also very cautious consumers, carefully He launched behno, aimed globe, spending patterns are changing. budgeting and evaluating spends. But, at at improving the quality of life Only recently, young, socially aware and the same time, they naturally gravitate of women involved in the trade. towards amazing products that are “Fashion is a large and powerful covetable and speak for themselves. industry working with some behno’s debut collection features behno’s customer is an upcoming of the globe’s most vulnerable luxurious fabrics with abstract millennial who is socially conscious, communities,” says Punjya. The interpretations of Le Corbusier’s but loves quality and pieces with great label’s nonprofit partner is Muni aesthetic on sculptural and design sensibilities. In fact, 55 per cent boxy garments Seva Ashram, a non-profit based of millennials spend for the experience in Gujarat, on the outskirts of that a purchase can provide. We want Vadodara. The eco-conscious, the behno buyer to engage with our self-sustaining village is a hen I started behno in 2013, I had an At behno, our focus lies on ethical manufacturing. back story and connect with garment progressive rural outpost. overly simplified notion of ethical fashion. We’re interested in understanding the needs and workers in ways that she has not been The label’s Fall/Winter WI used to question how diœcult would wants of garment workers at a personal level, able to do so before. As a customer, 2015 collection reimagines Le it be to create fashion with a moral fibre, mostly out beyond international compliance protocols. During it’s exciting to learn about a world that’s Corbusier’s Chandigarh. Merino of lack of exposure to the extremely interconnected university, I spent time trying to understand the so disconnected from the one they’re wool, silk organza, Indian web that makes up the entire industry. For me, ethics best methodologies that impact change. By studying accustomed to. cottons and Japanese synthetic had to be incorporated into the supply chain that case studies and theories and reading in-between the We’re one of the several brands in the textiles have been juxtaposed governed fashion. It seemed that simple. But I was lines, I realised that those of us who are not directly contemporary clothing and luxury segment with abstract interpretations so wrong. concerned with the unfairness of an industry, have no that are rigidly incorporating ethical practices of Le Corbusier’s paintings, in When the Rana Plaza garment factory collapsed power to dictate what the solution is. into the supply chain. The luxury design segment silhouettes that uphold behno’s in Bangladesh in 2013, it became apparent that there The importance of stepping back and including already works within a demanding framework — youthful sensibilities. were inherent flaws in the global fashion landscape, marginalised communities at the heart of the maintaining a high level of quality control, sourcing especially in developing economies. Even with discussion is critical. It became clear that we have extraordinary fabrics and offering an aspirational appeal. compliances in place, atrocities were occurring. More to take the “base of the pyramid” approach. Adding another element — the social welfare aspect — is acute attention was (and is) needed in industries where Understand and react, or better yet, understand a supplemental demand in an already challenging space. marginalised communities form an integral part of and prevent. We listen to our garment workers, With changing spending patterns, brands will have to their workforce. This prompted me to launch behno, study other artisans and have devised something we adapt to remain competitive. Ethical practices will have and it governs what our label stands for today — call “The behno Standard,” which looks at slowly to become a large part of emerging and existing brands, ethically created garments. implementing principles that consider a worker’s as important issues enter our design conversation. People By no means am I an expert on the subject, but the wants at a personal level. are talking about deep-rooted concerns and there’s no term is a rather complicated one. In order for a label I’ve been privileged to learn about our garment escaping this. As we progress, deploying moral practices or brand to develop a conscience, it has to successfully workers right from the beginning, when our factory’s won’t be an option; it will be a necessity. integrate ethics into the entirety of its supply chain managing director was interviewing them last October. behno is a very small activist in a much larger — right from growing fibres, producing textiles, and The hurdles that our garment workers go through daily movement of ethical fashion. Though we just debuted constructing and manufacturing garments to packing. to arrive at work, speak volumes about their passion our first collection in Mumbai, the response has been One needs to also consider the environmental impact and commitment to craft. A majority of our garment overwhelming. We definitely have plans to make our at each step. workers have an agricultural background, where they pieces available in India. I am excited to collaborate Shivam Punjya For a single brand to take up all of these practices have worked with ropes and sickles. Now, we’re giving with other master craftsmen with similar values. Founder and CEO, would be an incredible feat. What is feasible and them fine thread and encouraging them to construct Everyone will gain tremendously from sharing best behno attainable is for a label to specialise in one value beautiful pieces with meticulous detailing. Just practices across disciplines. Indians should be very The tragic collapse of the Rana component, master it, and then collaborate with imagine — switching industries overnight and starting proud about the high levels of luxury production Plaza in Bangladesh catalysed masters of other trades. Ultimately, ethical fashion is a from scratch! In a very real way, my experience with that they have attained and enjoy the fruits of these him into launching behno collaborative process. behno, with my non-fashion background, has been creative partnerships. •

[ 26 ] BLACKBOOK | MARCH 2015 MARCH 2015 | BLACKBOOK [ 27 ] Belle Vie Because luxury is full of celebrations and soirées

Ghanasingh Be True

What: Unveiling of ‘Trousseau Treasures’ designed by Maheka Mirpuri for Ghanasingh Be True Where:Ghanasingh Be True Jewellery Salon, Bandra Who: Gautam and Krishaa Ghanasingh, Schauna Chauhan,Maheka Mirpuri, Bhagyashree; Eesha Koppikar Narang; Kadambari Lakhani; Mona Narang; Bina and Talat Aziz; Sayyeda Jaffer; Sangita Singh; Amy Billimoria

Behno & Chatterjee & Lal

What: Launch of behno — a contemporary womenswear label Where: Chatterjee & Lal, Mumbai Who: Andrew Morgan, Shivam Punjya and Bandana Tewari; Mozez Singh; Gaurav Bhatia and Poorna Jagannathan; Payal Khandwala and Nonita Kalra; Tagra and Thukral; Princess Freancoise Sturdza; Roohi Jaikishan; Rajeev Seth

Gionee India Beach Fashion Week 2015

What: Gionee India Beach Fashion Week 2015 Where: Grand Mercure Goa Shrem Resort Who: (clockwise from top left) Anjallee and Arjun Kapoor; Shriya Saran for Asmita Marwa; James Ferreira and models; Nachiket Barve; Akshay Kalmadi and Neha Bhogal; Harsh Gupta and models; Falguni and Shane Peacock; Sarah Jane Dias for Shouger Merchant Doshi; Sounia Gohil and model; Urvashi Rautela for Pria Kataaria Puri; Shriti Pratap and models; Gauhar Khan for Mapxencars by Riddhi Siddhi; Komal Sood; Mona Shroff

Klove

What: Klove’s 10th Anniversary Celebration Party Where: Klove Studio, New Delhi Who: Gautam Seth, Sunil Sethi, Rajeev Sethi, Paula Navone and Prateek Jain; Kevin Nigli, David Abraham and Ritu Nanda; Rima and Shantanu Mehra; Vikrum Baidyanath with Rohit Bal; Rohit Gandhi, Rahul Khanna with Namrata Joshipura; Manish Arora with Alex Davis

[ 28 ] BLACKBOOK | MARCH 2015