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10 of TOMORROW Meet 10 Emerging figures in Design, JAN 10 OF TOMORROW Meet 10 emerging figures in design, JAN. beauty, retail, business 2017 No. 2 and technology with the potential to lead their respective fields. Features, p. 39 Fashion. Beauty. Business. COUTURE IN BLOOM MARIA GRAZIA CHIURI said it with flowers — and a garden set — for her couture debut at DIOR. US $9.99 JAPAN ¥1500 CANADA $13 CHINA ¥80 UK £ 8 HONG KONG HK100 EUROPE € 11 INDIA 800 CONGRATULATIONS TO THE TEN OF TOMORROW WINNERS PRESENTED BY COMING SOON Discover the Seaport of Tomorrow SeaportDistrict.nyc The Miles Socha EDITOR IN CHIEF James Fallon Features EDITOR Pete Born EXECUTIVE EDITOR, BEAUTY Bridget Foley Ten of Tomorrow EXECUTIVE EDITOR Arthur Zaczkiewicz 39 WWD’s annual special EXECUTIVE EDITOR, STRATEGIC CONTENT DEVELOPMENT report looks at 10 emerging Nick Mrozowski CREATIVE DIRECTOR figures in design, beauty, retail, John B. Fairchild business and technology who 1927 — 2015 have the potential to lead their MANAGING EDITOR Peter Sadera MANAGING EDITOR, Dianne M. Pogoda respective fields. FASHION/SPECIAL REPORTS DEPUTY MANAGING EDITOR Evan Clark NEWS DIRECTOR Lisa Lockwood STYLE DIRECTOR Alex Badia Couture SENIOR EDITOR, RETAIL David Moin SENIOR EDITOR, SPECIAL PROJECTS, Arthur Friedman 60 The spring couture season TEXTILES & TRADE SENIOR EDITOR, FINANCIAL Vicki M. Young BUREAU CHIEF, LONDON Samantha Conti is under way in Paris, with a BUREAU CHIEF, PARIS Joelle Diderich BUREAU CHIEF, MILAN Luisa Zargani flurry of fantasy and some BUREAU CHIEF, LOS ANGELES Marcy Medina ASIAN EDITOR Amanda Kaiser much-anticipated debuts. BUREAU CHIEF, WASHINGTON Kristi Ellis ASSOCIATE EDITOR Jenny B. Fine SENIOR EDITOR, SPECIALTY RETAIL Sharon Edelson SENIOR FASHION FEATURES EDITOR Jessica Iredale ACCESSORIES MARKET DIRECTOR Roxanne Robinson FASHION MARKET DIRECTOR Mayte Allende ASSOCIATE EYE EDITOR Kristen Tauer MEN’S SENIOR EDITOR Jean E. Palmieri MEN’S MARKET EDITOR Luis Campuzano MEN’S REPORTER Aria Hughes MEN’S FASHION ASSISTANT Kayana Cordwell MARKET EDITORS ACCESSORIES Misty White Sidell BEAUTY, FINANCE Allison Collins BEAUTY, MASS MARKET Ellen Thomas BEAUTY, PRESTIGE Rachel Strugatz BEAUTY, WEST COAST Rachel Brown READY-TO-WEAR & SPORTSWEAR NEWS Rosemary Feitelberg MEDIA Alexandra Steigrad, Kara Bloomgarden-Smoke READY-TO-WEAR AND Kristi Garced, Andrew Shang SPORTSWEAR FASHION ASSOCIATE EYE EDITOR Leigh Nordstrom EYE Alexa Tietjen STRATEGIC CONTENT DEVELOPMENT Liz Doupnik CORRESPONDENTS LONDON, GENERAL Lorelei Marfil ASSIGNMENT EDITOR ACCESSORIES AND GENERAL Natalie Theodosi ASSIGNMENT EDITOR LOS ANGELES Khanh T.L. Tran, Kari Hamanaka MILAN FASHION EDITOR Alessandra Turra NEW YORK, EDITORIAL ASSISTANTS Tara Bonet-Black FASHION MARKET ASSISTANT Emily Mercer PARIS, EUROPEAN BEAUTY EDITOR Jennifer Weil COORDINATOR Anne-Aymone Gheerbrant GENERAL ASSIGNMENT EDITOR, EUROPE Laure Guilbault ACCESSORIES AND Katya Foreman GENERAL ASSIGNMENT EDITOR SAN FRANCISCO, TECHNOLOGY Maghan McDowell ASIA CORRESPONDENT Tiffany Ap DESIGN DEPARTMENT ART DIRECTOR Mallory Roynon SENIOR DESIGNER Oliver Yoo DESIGNER Jewelyn Butron JUNIOR DESIGNER Kelsey Nusbaum DIGITAL DAILY DESIGNER Lyanne Natividad PHOTOGRAPHY PHOTO DIRECTOR Ash Barhamand DEPUTY PHOTO DIRECTOR Jenna Greene BOOKINGS AND PRODUCTION EDITOR Oona Wally ASSISTANT PHOTO EDITOR Jillian Sollazzo PHOTO STUDIO PHOTO STUDIO COORDINATOR Emily Taylor PHOTOGRAPHER George Chinsee COPYDESK COPY CHIEF Maureen Morrison-Shulas COPY EDITORS Danielle Gilliard, Maxine Wally PREPRESS PRODUCTION DIGITAL IMAGING Alex Sharfman PREPRESS ASSEMBLY David Lee Chin WWD.COM Ten of Tomorrow: DIGITAL DIRECTOR Sophia Chabbott British designer WEB PRODUCER Robert Tutton SOCIAL MEDIA MANAGER Leah Kircher Molly Goddard. INTERNATIONAL DIGITAL EDITOR Fabiana Repaci 4 JANUARY 2017, No. 2 WWD.COM Photograph by JAMIE STOKER ON OUR 40TH ANNIVERSARY WE EXPRESS DEEP T Y O R Y E F A G R N S GRATITUDE TO OUR I O T F A R T B H E RETAIL PARTNERS. E L A E R C T I O R F O T N We couldn’t have done it without you. A Contents Paul Jowdy SENIOR VICE PRESIDENT, GROUP PUBLISHER Pamela Firestone ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER ADVERTISING INTERNATIONAL FASHION DIRECTOR, Renee Moskowitz RMM MEDIA EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR, MEN’S Brett Mitchell AMERICAN FASHION & Jennifer Petersen LUXURY DIRECTOR BEAUTY DIRECTOR Louise Coolick ACCOUNT DIRECTOR Samantha Hartje ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE Amy Keiser SENIOR CLIENT SERVICES MANAGER Trish Robbins CLIENT SERVICES MANAGER Rachael DeSantis REGIONAL OFFICES/INTERNATIONAL OFFICES Recent business-school graduates are WEST COAST DIRECTOR Courtney Hazirjian +1-323-617-9283 heading out of universities not just with fancy SALES COORDINATOR, WEST COAST Liz Carcich EUROPEAN ACCOUNT DIRECTOR, ITALY Giulia Squeri diplomas, but ideas to remake the world. +39-02-722-33602 ACCOUNT DIRECTOR, ITALY Olga Kouznetsova +39-02-722-33603 Retail Agenda, p. 28 SENIOR SALES COORDINATOR, ITALY Emanuela Altimani EUROPEAN DIRECTOR, FRANCE Valérie Deschamps-Wright +33 1 44 51 07 61 EUROPEAN SALES REPRESENTATIVE Marjorie Thomas +33-240-31-6541 Boss to Take DEPARTMENTS ADVERTISING ASSISTANT, FRANCE Pascale Rajac Center Stage 10 8 Social Studies DIGITAL/MARKETING/CREATIVE SERVICES As part of the company’s The best and worst in DIRECTOR OF INTEGRATED MARKETING Stephanie Siegel restructuring, the core men’s CREATIVE DIRECTOR, MARKETING Cass Spencer social media, what’s DIGITAL STRATEGIST Suzette Minetti label, now designed by Ingo trending, whom to follow. INTEGRATED MARKETING ASSOCIATE Lauren-Ashley Spencer Wilts, will be shown at New AUDIENCE MARKETING York Fashion Week: Men’s. 9 The Essentialist VICE PRESIDENT Ellen Fairbanks Dealy The week’s top stories. CONSUMER MARKETING DIRECTOR Peggy Pyle Men’s Designer SENIOR DIRECTOR, DIGITAL MARKETING Janet Menaker & STRATEGIC DEVELOPMENT Inspirations 12 SENIOR DIRECTOR FINANCE, PLANNING Sean McDermott 35 Eye AND OPERATIONS From Nineties dance FWhj_[iThe Scene at SENIOR DIRECTOR, Randi Segal subcultures to the dark works INSTITUTIONAL SALES Sundance: Parties, premieres of Edgar Allan Poe — and even SENIOR ONLINE MANAGER Suzanne Berardi and protest. SENIOR MARKETING MANAGER Tamra Febesh Mars — New York designers ASSOCIATE MARKETING MANAGER Lauren Busch Report Card Laid-back and embarked on a number of Buttoned-up, from casual PRODUCTION creative journeys for fall. Sundance to the new Trump PRODUCTION DIRECTOR Kevin Hurley PRODUCTION MANAGER John Cross administration. The Perfect Pairs 16 SUMMITS & EVENTS Agenda Collaboration reigned VICE PRESIDENT, NEW VENTURES & GM Amber Mundinger supreme in the City of Light, 66 Think Tank EXECUTIVE EDITORIAL DIRECTOR Mary Ann Bacher as did the suit, which is being HRC Retail Advisory ceo Antony DIRECTOR, ATTENDEE SALES Kim Mancuso SPONSORSHIP DIRECTOR Alexis Coyle reimagined by a bevy of Karabus discusses controlling DIRECTOR OF Amelia Ewert designers. costs in a shifting retail EXPERIENTIAL MARKETING landscape. FAIRCHILD PUBLISHING LLC European EDITORIAL DIRECTOR OF Michael Atmore FOOTWEAR NEWS & DIRECTOR Textile Preview 18 PLUS: OF BRAND DEVELOPMENT Looking ahead at challenges Briefs: Fashion, Accessories, DIRECTOR OF EUROPEAN OPERATIONS Ron Wilson mills are facing as they head Beauty, Retail; Model Call: Jazzelle; into the upcoming Milano Mobile Phone Unica, Première Vision and Data Points: Subscriptions Texworld shows. WWD AND FAIRCHILD MEDIA ARE OWNED AND PUBLISHED BY PENSKE MEDIA CORPORATION 24 ON THE COVER: Couture in Bloom: As the spring Jay Penske Mass Attack CHAIRMAN & CEO As ingredients and couture season got under way in Paris, Maria Grazia Chiuri’s haute debut for Dior was one of VICE CHAIRMAN Gerry Byrne innovations cascade from the season’s most anticipated events. Though CHIEF OPERATING OFFICER George Grobar SENIOR VICE PRESIDENT, Craig Perreault prestige faster than ever, she set her extravagant fairytale in a moody, BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT Millennials are scooping up magical garden, backstage, there was plenty to GENERAL COUNSEL & Todd Greene skin-care products at the smile about, including Stephen Jones’ floral tiara. SVP HUMAN RESOURCES drugstore, causing sales to COVER PHOTOGRAPH BY DELPHINE ACHARD VICE PRESIDENT, CREATIVE Nelson Anderson soar in the mass market. VICE PRESIDENT, FINANCE Ken Delacazar VICE PRESIDENT, HUMAN RESOURCES Tarik West VICE PRESIDENT, ENGINEERING Gabriel Koen VICE PRESIDENT, Christina Yeoh A New Code 30 TECHNICAL OPERATIONS Moshe Lax has built a new DEPUTY GENERAL COUNSEL Judith R. Margolin Upper East Side home for DIRECTOR OF COMMUNICATIONS Lauren Gullion SR. DIRECTOR OF Joni Antonacci designers looking for a New PRODUCTION OPERATIONS York boost. CONTROLLER Young Ko SENIOR PROGRAM MANAGER Derek Ramsey DIRECTOR, ADVERTISING OPERATIONS Eddie Ko DIRECTOR OF TALENT ACQUISITION Andy Limpus WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF FAIRCHILD PUBLISHING, LLC. COPYRIGHT ©2017 FAIRCHILD PUBLISHING, LLC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. VOLUME 212, NO. 2. DIRECTOR OF IT OPERATIONS Rick Gascon Wednesday, January 25, 2017. WWD (ISSN 0149-5380) is published twice per month with one additional issue in February, March, April, May, June, October, December and two additional issues & PRODUCTION in August, by Fairchild Media, LLC, which is a division of Penske Business Media, LLC. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 475 Fifth Ave, New York, NY 10017. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY, and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post: return undeliverable Canadian addresses to P.O. Box 503, RPO West Beaver Cre, Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO SENIOR IT ANALYST Carl Foner WWD, P.O. Box 6356, Harlan, IA, 51593. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS
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