©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 249

Behind the Scenes

SEND US YOUR FEEDBACK We love to hear from travellers – your comments keep us on our toes and help make our books better. Our well-travelled team reads every word on what you loved or loathed about this book. Although we cannot reply individually to your submissions, we always guarantee that your feedback goes straight to the appropriate authors, in time for the next edition. Each person who sends us information is thanked in the next edition – the most useful submissions are rewarded with a selection of digital PDF chapters. Visit lonelyplanet.com/contact to submit your updates and suggestions or to ask for help. Our award-winning website also features inspirational travel stories, news and discussions. Note: We may edit, reproduce and incorporate your comments in Lonely Planet products such as guidebooks, websites and digital products, so let us know if you don’t want your comments reproduced or your name acknowledged. For a copy of our privacy policy visit lonelyplanet.com/ privacy.

OUR READERS Trent Holden Thanks first up to Joe Bindloss for giving me Many thanks to the travellers who used the opportunity again to work again on India – the last edition and wrote to us with help- a seriously dream gig. As well as to my co-­ ful hints, useful advice and interesting authors, especially Sarina for all the help and anecdotes: tips along the way. A shout out to all the good Clive & Sheila Robinson, Jenny & David folk I met along the road and shared a beer Thomas, Lelena Pierce, Remo Klinger, Tiago with. But as always my biggest thanks goes to Raimundo my beautiful girlfriend Kate, and my family and friends who I all miss back home in Melbourne. AUTHOR THANKS Iain Stewart Paul Harding It was great to hang with Laksh in Bandra and Thanks to Hannah and Layla for accompanying have a virtual beer with Paul Harding by the me to Goa and putting up with my absence sea. Thanks to the good folk at the MTDC all while in Kerala. Cheers to Joe for entrusting me over the state, particularly Mr Shaker and Mrs with such a great part of India. In India, thanks Singh in Mumbai. I’m also very grateful to Adit� to all who offered advice and company but es� ya in Nagpur and Tadoba, Maria in Matheran pecially to all the new friends I met in Goa and and the merry musicians of Kolhapur. mostly to the old friends I already knew – you all know who you are! ACKNOWLEDGMENTS Abigail Blasi Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, Thank you Joe Bindloss and Sarina Singh, DE Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated and CA supreme, and to my wonderful co� World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate -authors. Thanks in Delhi to Sarah Fothering� Classification’, Hydrology and Earth System ham, to Nicolas Thompson and Danish Abbas, Sciences, 11, 163344. to Dilliwala Mayank Austen Soofi, to Rajinder Cover photograph:Anjuna Beach, Goa/­ and Surinder Budhraja, to Nirinjan and Jyoti Kimberley Coole/Getty Desai, my Delhi family, and to Luca for holding the fort. 250 BEHIND THE SCENES THE BEHIND

This guidebook was pro� Assisting Editors Imogen THIS BOOK duced by the following: Bannister, Kate Chapman, This 7th edition of Lonely Destination Editor Kate Evans, Samantha Forge, Planet’s Goa & Mumbai Joe Bindloss Paul Harding, Gabrielle Innes, guidebook was researched Product Editors Katie O’Connell, Lauren and written by Paul Kate Mathews, Alison Ridgway ­O’Connell, Kathryn Rowan, ­Harding, Abigail Blasi, Saralinda Turner Book Designer Trent Holden and Iain Clara Monitto Cover Researcher Stewart. Naomi Parker Thanks to Lonely Planet Cartography, Ellie Simpson ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 251

Index

A B C children, travel with accommodation 78, 226-7, Baga 127-35, 128 Cabo da Rama 180, 24 Goa 33-4 see also individual accommodation 131-2 Calangute 127-35, 128 Mumbai 56 locations activities 127-9 accommodation 130-1 Chorao Island 94 activities 29-32, see also drinking & nightlife 133 Christianity 208 individual activities activities 127-9 food 132-3 Christmas 21 air travel 233-4 food 132 information 134 churches & cathedrals Aldona 157 information 134 shopping 133-4 Basilica of Bom Jesus 96 Altinho Hill 83 shopping 133-4 travel to/from 134-5 Chapel of St Anthony 100 altitude sickness 242-3 tours 129 Banganga Festival 18 Chapel of St Catherine 98 amoebic dysentery 241 travel to/from 134-5 bargaining 214 Chapel of St Sebastian 85 Anegundi 116-17 travel within 135 Basilica of Bom Jesus 96 Church & Convent of St animals 218-19, see also Camões, Luís Vaz de 86 beach huts 28 Cajetan 98-9 individual species, Canacona, see Chaudi beaches 26-8 Church & Convent of St birdwatching, dolphin-­ Candolim 119-27, 122 Monica 99-100 spotting, wildlife bears 117 canoeing, see kayaking Church of Nossa Senhora watching, Benaulim 176-9, 177 canyoning 183 Mae de Deus Anjuna 135-40, 136 Betalbatim 174 car travel 234, 235, see also (Calangute) 133 accommodation 135-7 Betul 180 motorcycle travel Church of Nossa Senhora, activities 135 Bhagwan Mahavir Wildlife carbon-monoxide Mae de Deus drinking & nightlife 139-40 Sanctuary 108 (Pombura) 157 poisoning 243 food 138-9 bicycle travel 235 Church of Our Lady of Carnival 19, 87 information 140 birds 219 Compassion 101 carpets 214 shopping 140 birdwatching 12, 113, 12 Church of Our Lady of casinos 89 travel to/from 140 Backwoods Camp 109 Miracles 140 caste system 206 Anjuna Market 10, 138, 10 Bondla Wildlife Church of Our Lady of the cathedrals, see churches & Immaculate Conception antiques 214 Sanctuary 107 cathedrals 79-81 Arambol (Harmal) 153-6 Dr Salim Ali Bird Sanctuary 94 Cavelossim 179-80 Church of Our Lady of the architecture 17, 216 Mount 98 Mumbai 56, 57 caves area codes 15 Church of Our Lady of the boat travel 237 Kanheri Caves 57 Arossim 171-2 Rosary 100 boat trips Khandepar 106 art galleries, see museums Church of St Andrew 102 & galleries Bogmalo 171 Rivona Buddhist Caves 168-9 Church of St Augustine 99 arts 215-17, see also Calangute 129 cell phones 14, 231 Church of St Francis of individual arts Candolim 121 Assisi 98 Central Goa 36, 78-117, Assagao 141 Mobor 179 80 Church of St Lawrence Assolna 180 Panaji 84 accommodation 78 (Agassim) 102 Aswen 150-1 Bogmalo 170-1 climate 78 Church of St Lawrence ATMs 229 Bollywood 71 food 78 (Fort Aguada) 121 autorickshaws 15, 235-6 Bombay, see Mumbai highlights 80 Church of St Thomas 157 ayurveda 29-30 Bonderam 20 travel seasons 78 Church of the Holy Spirit Calangute 127 Bondla Wildlife Sanctuary 107 Chandor 166-7 162 Mandrem 152 books 196, 215-16 Chapora 143-8, 144 Mount Church 162 bookshops 213 Chaudi (Canacona) 182 Nossa Senhora de Penha de Franca 156-7 Britona 156-7 Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj Nossa Senhora de budget 15, see also costs Vastu Sangrahalaya 46-7 Saude 170 Map Pages 000 bus travel 234, 235 Chhatrapati Shivaji Our Lady of Mercy Church Terminus 43, 46 Photo Pages 000 business hours 15 174 252 churches & cathedrals dengue fever 241 Feast of Our Lady of gay travellers 68, 228 continued Devil’s Canyon 109 Livrament 21 gem scams 222-3 Our Lady of Remedios 172 Dhangars 110 Feast of Our Lady of geography 218 Rachol 166 Dharavi 48 Miracles 19 geology 218 Reis Magos Church 119 diarrhoea 241-2 Feast of Our Lady of the giardiasis 241-2 Immaculate Sé Cathedral 97, 11 diphtheria 239 Conception 21 Goa Arts & Literary INDEX INDEX St Alex’s Church 131 disabilities, travellers with Festival 21 Feast of St Anthony 19 St Thomas’ Cathedral 48 231-2 Goa trance 215 Feast of St Francis Xavier Divar Island 101-2 cinema 217 21, 96, 98 Goa Velha 102

C- diving 30  climate 14, see also Feast of the Chapel 20 Gokarna 191-4

H individual locations Baga 129  Feast of the Menino Jesus golf 190 climate change 233 Bogmalo 171 20, 174 Coco Beach 119 Calangute 127 feni 211-12 coconuts 211 Diwali 20 H Fernandes House 167 haggling 214 Cola Beach 180-1 dolphin spotting 34 Fernandes, Remo 216 Hampi 110-16, 112, 114 Colem 109 Baga 127 ferry travel 237 accommodation 113-15 Colva 174-6, Bogmalo 171 175 Festa das Bandeiras 18 activities 113 consulates 227-8 Calangute 129 festivals & events 13, festivals & events 113 cooking courses 32 Nerul (Coco) Beach 119 18-21, 13 food 115-16 Anjuna 135 Panaji 84 Carnival 19, 87 history 110 Assagao 141 Sinquerim 121 Elephanta Festival 41 infomation 116 Palolem 183 Dona Paula 93 Feast of the Menino shopping 116 Corjuem Island 157-8 drinking 16-17, 27, see Jesus 20, 174 also individual locations sights 110-12, 115 costs Ganesh Chaturthi 20, 41 drinks 211 travel to/from 116 accommodation 226, 230 Hampi 113 drinking water 242 travel within 116 food 228, 230 Kala Ghoda Festival 18, 41 driving 234, 235 Hanuman Festival 19, 81 Cotigao Wildlife Mumbai Film Festival 41 Dr Salim Ali Bird Harmal (Arambol) 153-6 Sanctuary 190 Nariyal Poornima 20, 41 Sanctuary 94 health 238-43 courses film 217 drugs 139, 222, 229 books 239-40 cooking 32, 135, 141, 183 Bollywood 71 Dudhsagar Falls 13, 108-9, 13 checklist 238-9 dance 57 festivals 21, 41 Dusshera 20 environmental hazards diving 30 dysentery, amoebic 241 fishing industry 172 242-3 language 57 Fontainhas 85 food 222 music 57 food 16, 78, 210-12, see insurance 238 yoga 30, 57, 142, 152, 153 E also individual locations services 240 credit cards 222, 230 Easter 19 beach shacks 28 vaccinations 238, 239 cricket 209 economy 196-7 courses 32, 135, 141, 183 websites 239, 240 crocodiles 219 Eid al-Fitr 20 dabba-wallahs 65 women’s health 224, 243 cruises, see boat trips electricity 227 safety 222 hepatitis 239, 241 culture 196-7, 205-9, 212 Elephanta Festival 18, 41 street food 63 Hindi 244-6 currency 14 Elephanta Island 55-6 football 208, 209 elephants 105, 109 courses 57 Curtorim 168 Fort Aguada 121, 122 email services 228 Hinduism 207-8 customs regulations 227 travel to/from 127 embassies 227-8 history 198-204 cycling 235 forts 178 emergencies 15 Hampi 110 Cabo da Rama 180, 24 encephalitis, Japanese independence 203 D 239, 241 Cabo Raj Bhavan 93 Inquisition 199-201 dabba-wallahs 65 environment 196-7, 218-20 Chapora Fort 144-5 Kadambas 199 dance 215 environmental issues Corjuem Fort 157-8 Mauryan empire 198-9 courses 57 172, 220 Fort Aguada 121, 127, Mumbai 40-1 , dangers, see safety etiquette 208 122 12 Old Goa 94-5 Reis Magos Fort 119 Daroji Sloth Bear events, see festivals & Panaji 79 Tiracol (Terekhol) 154 Sanctuary 117 events Portuguese arrival 199 death 207 exchange rates 15 HIV 241 deforestation 220 G holidays 230 F Galgibag 190 horse riding 173 fado 215 Gandhi Jayanti 20 Hospet (Hosapete) 117 Map Pages 000 Faria, Abbé 84 Ganesh Chaturthi 20, 41 hospitals 91 Photo Pages 000 Fatorda Stadium 162-3 Gateway of India 42, 10 253 I Candolim 126 medical services 74 nightlife, see drinking Igitun Chalne 19 Casa Araujo Alvares 166 Northern Suburbs 62-3 North Goa 36, 118-58, 120 immigration 232 Fernandes House 167 shopping 72-4 accommodation 118 independence 203 Mapusa 140-3, 17 sights 41-56 climate 118 Independence Day 20 Margao (Madgaon) 162-6, tourist information 74-5 food 118 influenza 241 164 tours 57-9 highlights 120 Inquisition 199-201 Marine Drive 47 travel seasons 38 travel seasons 118 INDEX markets 10, 16, 213-14 insurance 228 travel to/from 75, 76, 77 Anjuna 10, 138, diving 242 10 travel within 76-7

-Baga 134 O  I health 238 walking tours 58, 59, 58 Old Goa 11, 94-101, 95, 11  P Mapusa 142, 17 Western Suburbs 53-4, motorcycle 228 olive ridley marine turtles Margao 165 62-3, 66-7, 69-70, travel 228 150, 181, 190, 219 Mumbai 73 74, 54 International Film Festival opening hours 15 of India 21 Panaji 90 museums & galleries 84 internet access 228 marriage 206 Achies Art Gallery 167 internet resources 15 Mayem Lake 158 Archaeological Museum P painting 216-17 Islam 208 measures 229 (Hampi) 112 Palácio do Deão 168 itineraries meningitis 239 Archaeological Museum (Old Goa) 98 Goa 22-5 Menino Jesus 174 Palolem 9, 183-8, 184, Chatterjee & Lal 47 , Mumbai 40 mining 220 8-9 24 Miramar 92-3 Chhatrapati Shivaji accommodation 184-6 mobile phones 14, 231 Maharaj Vastu activities 183-4 J Sangrahalaya 46-7 Mobor 179-80 courses 183 Japanese B encephalitis Delhi Art Gallery 49 Molem 107 drinking & nightlife 187-8 239, 241 Dr Bhau Daji Lad Mumbai money 14, 15, 229-30 food 186-7 Jog Falls 194 City Museum 49 Morjim 149-50 information 188 Galerie Mirchandaani + K mosques Steinruecke 47 shopping 188 Kala Ghoda Festival 18, 41 Haji Ali Dargah 49-52 Gallery Maskara 47 travel to/from 188 kayaking 183 Jama Masjid 81 Goa Chitra 176 Panaji 9, 36, 79-92, 82, 9 Keri, see Querim Safa Shahouri Masjid 103 Goa State Central accommodation 84-7 Khancola 180-1 motorcycle travel 12, 15, Library 81 activities 84 168, 236-7, 12 Khandepar 106 Goa State Museum 81 drinking & nightlife Mumbai (Bombay) 10, 35, Houses of Goa Museum 89-90 Khotachiwadi 49 38-77, , 39 10 156 entertainment 90 kindergartens 34 accommodation 38, 59-63 Jehangir Art Gallery 48 food 87-9 Konkani 246-8 activities 56-7 Jhaveri Contemporary 47 history 79 architecture 10, 10 Kristu Kala Mandir Art information 91 L art district 47 Gallery 97-8 shopping 90-1 Lancastre, Ursula e 158 children, travel with 56 Mani Bhavan 49 sights 79-84, 85 climate 38 language 14, 244-8 Mario Gallery 156 tours 84, 85 Colaba 41-3, 59-61, 63-4, language courses 57 Mumbai Boss 47 travel to/from 91, 91-2 68-9, 72, 42 Largo de Igreja 162 Museum of Christian travel within 92 courses 57 leatherwork 214 Art 100 papier-mâché 214 drinking & nightlife 67-70 legal matters 228-9 National Gallery of paragliding 135, 153 Elephanta Island 55-6 Modern Art 48-9 lesbian travellers 68, 228 Parsis 52 emergencies 74 Naval Aviation Museum 171 Liberation Day 21 passports 232 entertainment 70-2 Project 88 47 literature 196, 215-16 Patnem 188-9 festivals & events 41 music 196, 215 Loutolim 166 photography etiquette 223 food 38, 63-7 courses 57 Fort Area & Churchgate Pilar 102-3 M 43-9, 61-2, 64-6, 69, Pinto Revolt 125 magazines 229 72-3, 44-5 N planning Majorda 173 Gorai Island 55 Nariyal Poornima 20, 41 beaches 26-8 Malabar Hill 53 highlights 39 Naroa 158 budgeting 15 malaria 240 history 40-1 national parks & reserves, calendar of events 18-21 mando 215 itineraries 40 see sanctuaries & children 33-4 protected areas Mandrem 151-3, 11 Kalbadevi 49-53, 66, 69, Goa basics 14-15 Nerul (Coco) Beach 119 mansions 73-4, 50-1 Goa’s regions 35-6 Netravali Bubble Lake 188 Braganza House 167 Mahalaxmi 49-53, 66, internet resources 15 69, 73-4, newspapers 229 Calangute 131 50-1 itineraries 22-5 254 planning continued Netravali Protected women travellers 225, 236 V Mumbai basics 14-15 Area 188 telephone services 14, 231 vacations 230 Sanjay Gandhi National Mumbai’s regions 35 temples 108 Vagator 143-8, 144 Park 57 travel seasons 14 architecture 108 Varca 179-80 Sangodd 20 plants 220 Gokarna 191 varicella 239 Sanjay Gandhi National Polem 191 Hanuman Temple 116 Vasco da Gama 169-70 INDEX INDEX police 229 Park 57 Hazarama Temple 111 Sanjuan 19 vegetarian travellers 212 polio 239 Krishna Temple 111 Velsao 171-2 politics 196-7, 203-4 Sao Antonio Islet 170 Lakshimi Narasmiha 111 Sao Jacinto 170 Victoria Terminus 43, 46 P- Pomburpa 156-7 Mahalaxmi Temple 81  Virupaksha Temple 110-11 (Z Ponda 103-4, , Sao Tomé 85 Maruti Temple (Mapusa  103 11 visas 14, 232 population 197 Sassoon Dock 43 140-1 Vittala Temple 111 postal services 230 Sat Burnzam Ghor 162 Maruti Temple (Panaji) 81 volunteering 31-2 Procession of All Saints 19 scams 222-3 Shri Chandreshwar public holidays 230 Sé Cathedral 97, 11 (Bhutnath) Temple 169 Shantadurga 18 Shri Damodar Temple 168 W Shri Laxmi Narasimha Shigmotsav (Shigmo) 18, 13 walking tours Q Temple 106 Shivratri 19 Mumbai 58, 59, 58 Quepem 168 Shri Mahadeva Temple water, drinking 242 Querim (Keri) 154 shopping 16, 213-14, 109-10 see also markets, Shri Mahalaxmi Temple waterfalls ­individual locations 106-7 Dudhsagar Falls 108-9, 13 silent parties 187 R Shri Mahalsa Temple Hampi Waterfalls 113 rabies 239, 241 Sinquerim 119-27, 122 105-6 Jog Falls 194 Rachol Seminary 166 Siolim 148-9 Shri Manguesh Temple weather 14, see also radio 229 Siolim Zagor 21, 149 104-5 individual locations rafting 56 slums 48 Shri Naguesh Temple 106 websites 15 Rajbag 189-90 smoking 229 Shri Ramnath Temple 107 weights 229 Ramadan 20 snakes 219 Shri Saptakoteshwara wildlife watching 12, Reis Magos 18, 119 soccer 208, 209 Temple 158 31, 218-20, 12, see religion 197, 207-8 solo travellers 225 Shri Shantadurga Temple also birdwatching, Ribandar 93-4 107 South Goa 36, 159-94, ­dolphin-spotting rickshaws, auto 15, 235-6 Virupaksha Temple 110-11 160-1 Bhagwan Mahavir Rivona Buddhist Caves Vittala Temple 111 Wildlife Sanctuary 108 accommodation 159 168-9 tetanus 239 Bondla Wildlife climate 159 rock climbing 113 textiles 214 Sanctuary 107 food 159 theatre 217 Cotigao Wildlife highlights 160 S theft 223 Sanctuary 190 travel seasons 159 safety 222-3, 230-1 time 231 Daroji Sloth Bear spas 16 drinking water 242 tipping 230 Sanctuary 117 spice plantations 11, 105, food 222 tourism 196-7, 220 women travellers 224-5, 236 109, 188, 11 scams 222-3 tourist information 231 women’s health 224, 243 spitting 229 solo travellers 225 tours 31, 237, see also boat swimming 27 sport 209 trips, individual St Francis Xavier 96, 202 locations Y women travellers 224-5 yoga 29, 30 surfing touts 223 Sancoale 170 Anjuna 135 Arambol 153 train travel 12, 15, 234-5, sanctuaries & protected Arambol 153 areas 219-20 Aswem 150 237, 12 Assagao 142 Bhagwan Mahavir Gokarna 192 trance parties 146 beaches 28 Wildlife Sanctuary 108 Utorda 172-3 travel seasons 78, 118 Mandrem 11, 152, Bondla Wildlife susegad 205 travel to/from Goa 233-5 11 Mumbai 56, 57 Sanctuary 107 synagogues 48 travel within Goa 235-7 Cotigao Wildlife tuberculosis 239, 241 Palolem 183 Sanctuary 190 turtles 150, 181, 190, 219 Patnem 189 Daroji Sloth Bear T TV 229 Sanctuary 117 Taj Mahal Palace Hotel, typhoid 239, 241 Dr Salim Ali Bird Mumbai 41-2, 10 Z Sanctuary 94 Talpona 190 Zagor Festival 21, 149 Tambdi Surla 109-10 U Zambaulim 168 Usgalimal Rock Carvings Tanshikar Spice Farm 188 Map Pages 169 000 taxis 236 Photo Pages Utorda 172-3 000 motorcycles 236 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 255

Map Legend

Sights Information Routes Beach Bank Tollway Bird Sanctuary Embassy/Consulate Freeway Buddhist Hospital/Medical Primary Castle/Palace Internet Secondary Christian Police Tertiary Confucian Post Office Lane Hindu Telephone Unsealed road Islamic Toilet Road under construction Jain Tourist Information Plaza/Mall Jewish Other Information Steps Monument Tunnel Museum/Gallery/Historic Building Geographic Pedestrian overpass Ruin Beach Walking Tour Shinto Hut/Shelter Walking Tour detour Sikh Lighthouse Path/Walking Trail Taoist Lookout Winery/Vineyard Mountain/Volcano Boundaries Zoo/Wildlife Sanctuary Oasis International Other Sight Park State/Province Pass Disputed Activities, Picnic Area Regional/Suburb Courses & Tours Waterfall Marine Park Bodysurfing Cliff Diving Population Wall Canoeing/Kayaking Capital (National) Course/Tour Capital (State/Province) Hydrography Sento Hot Baths/Onsen City/Large Town River, Creek Skiing Town/Village Intermittent River Snorkelling Canal Surfing Transport Water Swimming/Pool Airport Walking Border crossing Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake Windsurfing Bus Reef Other Activity Cable car/Funicular Cycling Areas Sleeping Ferry Airport/Runway Sleeping Metro station Camping Monorail Beach/Desert Parking Cemetery (Christian) Eating Petrol station Eating Subway station Cemetery (Other) Taxi Glacier Drinking & Nightlife Train station/Railway Drinking & Nightlife Tram Mudflat Cafe Underground station Park/Forest Other Transport Entertainment Sight (Building) Entertainment Sportsground Shopping Note: Not all symbols displayed above Swamp/Mangrove Shopping appear on the maps in this book ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

© Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally restricted. In return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes only. In other words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying the above - ‘Do the right thing with our content.’