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For a copy of our privacy policy visit lonelyplanet.com/ privacy. OUR READERS Trent Holden Thanks first up to Joe Bindloss for giving me Many thanks to the travellers who used the opportunity again to work again on India – the last edition and wrote to us with help- a seriously dream gig. As well as to my co� ful hints, useful advice and interesting authors, especially Sarina for all the help and anecdotes: tips along the way. A shout out to all the good Clive & Sheila Robinson, Jenny & David folk I met along the road and shared a beer Thomas, Lelena Pierce, Remo Klinger, Tiago with. But as always my biggest thanks goes to Raimundo my beautiful girlfriend Kate, and my family and friends who I all miss back home in Melbourne. AUTHOR THANKS Iain Stewart Paul Harding It was great to hang with Laksh in Bandra and Thanks to Hannah and Layla for accompanying have a virtual beer with Paul Harding by the me to Goa and putting up with my absence sea. Thanks to the good folk at the MTDC all while in Kerala. Cheers to Joe for entrusting me over the state, particularly Mr Shaker and Mrs with such a great part of India. In India, thanks Singh in Mumbai. I’m also very grateful to Adit� to all who offered advice and company but es� ya in Nagpur and Tadoba, Maria in Matheran pecially to all the new friends I met in Goa and and the merry musicians of Kolhapur. mostly to the old friends I already knew – you all know who you are! ACKNOWLEDGMENTS Abigail Blasi Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, Thank you Joe Bindloss and Sarina Singh, DE Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated and CA supreme, and to my wonderful co� World Map of the Köppen�Geiger Climate �authors. Thanks in Delhi to Sarah Fothering� Classification’, Hydrology and Earth System ham, to Nicolas Thompson and Danish Abbas, Sciences, 11, 163344. to Dilliwala Mayank Austen Soofi, to Rajinder Cover photograph:Anjuna Beach, Goa/ and Surinder Budhraja, to Nirinjan and Jyoti Kimberley Coole/Getty Desai, my Delhi family, and to Luca for holding the fort. 250 BEHIND THE SCENES This guidebook was pro� Assisting Editors Imogen THIS BOOK duced by the following: Bannister, Kate Chapman, This 7th edition of Lonely Destination Editor Kate Evans, Samantha Forge, Planet’s Goa & Mumbai Joe Bindloss Paul Harding, Gabrielle Innes, guidebook was researched Product Editors Katie O’Connell, Lauren and written by Paul Kate Mathews, Alison Ridgway O’Connell, Kathryn Rowan, Harding, Abigail Blasi, Saralinda Turner Book Designer Trent Holden and Iain Clara Monitto Cover Researcher Stewart. Naomi Parker Thanks to Lonely Planet Cartography, Ellie Simpson ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 251 Index A B C children, travel with accommodation 78, 226-7, Baga 127-35, 128 Cabo da Rama 180, 24 Goa 33-4 see also individual accommodation 131-2 Calangute 127-35, 128 Mumbai 56 locations activities 127-9 accommodation 130-1 Chorao Island 94 activities 29-32, see also drinking & nightlife 133 Christianity 208 individual activities activities 127-9 food 132-3 Christmas 21 air travel 233-4 food 132 information 134 churches & cathedrals Aldona 157 information 134 shopping 133-4 Basilica of Bom Jesus 96 Altinho Hill 83 shopping 133-4 travel to/from 134-5 Chapel of St Anthony 100 altitude sickness 242-3 tours 129 Banganga Festival 18 Chapel of St Catherine 98 amoebic dysentery 241 travel to/from 134-5 bargaining 214 Chapel of St Sebastian 85 Anegundi 116-17 travel within 135 Basilica of Bom Jesus 96 Church & Convent of St animals 218-19, see also Camões, Luís Vaz de 86 beach huts 28 Cajetan 98-9 individual species, Canacona, see Chaudi beaches 26-8 Church & Convent of St birdwatching, dolphin- Candolim 119-27, 122 Monica 99-100 spotting, wildlife bears 117 canoeing, see kayaking Church of Nossa Senhora watching, Benaulim 176-9, 177 canyoning 183 Mae de Deus Anjuna 135-40, 136 Betalbatim 174 car travel 234, 235, see also (Calangute) 133 accommodation 135-7 Betul 180 motorcycle travel Church of Nossa Senhora, activities 135 Bhagwan Mahavir Wildlife carbon-monoxide Mae de Deus drinking & nightlife 139-40 Sanctuary 108 (Pombura) 157 poisoning 243 food 138-9 bicycle travel 235 Church of Our Lady of Carnival 19, 87 information 140 birds 219 Compassion 101 carpets 214 shopping 140 birdwatching 12, 113, 12 Church of Our Lady of casinos 89 travel to/from 140 Backwoods Camp 109 Miracles 140 caste system 206 Anjuna Market 10, 138, 10 Bondla Wildlife Church of Our Lady of the cathedrals, see churches & Immaculate Conception antiques 214 Sanctuary 107 cathedrals 79-81 Arambol (Harmal) 153-6 Dr Salim Ali Bird Sanctuary 94 Cavelossim 179-80 Church of Our Lady of the architecture 17, 216 Mount 98 Mumbai 56, 57 caves area codes 15 Church of Our Lady of the boat travel 237 Kanheri Caves 57 Arossim 171-2 Rosary 100 boat trips Khandepar 106 art galleries, see museums Church of St Andrew 102 & galleries Bogmalo 171 Rivona Buddhist Caves 168-9 Church of St Augustine 99 arts 215-17, see also Calangute 129 cell phones 14, 231 Church of St Francis of individual arts Candolim 121 Assisi 98 Central Goa 36, 78-117, Assagao 141 Mobor 179 80 Church of St Lawrence Assolna 180 Panaji 84 accommodation 78 (Agassim) 102 Aswen 150-1 Bogmalo 170-1 climate 78 Church of St Lawrence ATMs 229 Bollywood 71 food 78 (Fort Aguada) 121 autorickshaws 15, 235-6 Bombay, see Mumbai highlights 80 Church of St Thomas 157 ayurveda 29-30 Bonderam 20 travel seasons 78 Church of the Holy Spirit Calangute 127 Bondla Wildlife Sanctuary 107 Chandor 166-7 162 Mandrem 152 books 196, 215-16 Chapora 143-8, 144 Mount Church 162 bookshops 213 Chaudi (Canacona) 182 Nossa Senhora de Penha de Franca 156-7 Britona 156-7 Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj Nossa Senhora de budget 15, see also costs Vastu Sangrahalaya 46-7 Saude 170 Map Pages 000 bus travel 234, 235 Chhatrapati Shivaji Our Lady of Mercy Church Terminus 43, 46 Photo Pages 000 business hours 15 174 252 churches & cathedrals dengue fever 241 Feast of Our Lady of gay travellers 68, 228 continued Devil’s Canyon 109 Livrament 21 gem scams 222-3 Our Lady of Remedios 172 Dhangars 110 Feast of Our Lady of geography 218 Rachol 166 Dharavi 48 Miracles 19 geology 218 Reis Magos Church 119 diarrhoea 241-2 Feast of Our Lady of the giardiasis 241-2 Immaculate Sé Cathedral 97, 11 diphtheria 239 Conception 21 Goa Arts & Literary INDEX St Alex’s Church 131 disabilities, travellers with Festival 21 Feast of St Anthony 19 St Thomas’ Cathedral 48 231-2 Goa trance 215 Feast of St Francis Xavier Divar Island 101-2 cinema 217 21, 96, 98 Goa Velha 102 C- diving 30 climate 14, see also Feast of the Chapel 20 Gokarna 191-4 H individual locations Baga 129 Feast of the Menino Jesus golf 190 climate change 233 Bogmalo 171 20, 174 Coco Beach 119 Calangute 127 feni 211-12 coconuts 211 Diwali 20 H Fernandes House 167 haggling 214 Cola Beach 180-1 dolphin spotting 34 Fernandes, Remo 216 Hampi 110-16, 112, 114 Colem 109 Baga 127 ferry travel 237 accommodation 113-15 Colva 174-6, Bogmalo 171 175 Festa das Bandeiras 18 activities 113 consulates 227-8 Calangute 129 festivals & events 13, festivals & events 113 cooking courses 32 Nerul (Coco) Beach 119 18-21, 13 food 115-16 Anjuna 135 Panaji 84 Carnival 19, 87 history 110 Assagao 141 Sinquerim 121 Elephanta Festival 41 infomation 116 Palolem 183 Dona Paula 93 Feast of the Menino shopping 116 Corjuem Island 157-8 drinking 16-17, 27, see Jesus 20, 174 also individual locations sights 110-12, 115 costs Ganesh Chaturthi 20, 41 drinks 211 travel to/from 116 accommodation 226, 230 Hampi 113 drinking water 242 travel within 116 food 228, 230 Kala Ghoda Festival 18, 41 driving 234, 235 Hanuman Festival 19, 81 Cotigao Wildlife Mumbai Film Festival 41 Dr Salim Ali Bird Harmal (Arambol) 153-6 Sanctuary 190 Nariyal Poornima 20, 41 Sanctuary 94 health 238-43 courses film 217 drugs 139, 222, 229 books 239-40 cooking 32, 135, 141, 183 Bollywood 71 Dudhsagar Falls 13, 108-9, 13 checklist 238-9 dance 57 festivals 21, 41 Dusshera 20 environmental hazards diving 30 dysentery, amoebic 241 fishing industry 172 242-3 language 57 Fontainhas 85 food 222 music 57 food 16, 78, 210-12, see insurance 238 yoga 30, 57, 142, 152, 153 E also individual locations services 240 credit cards 222, 230 Easter 19 beach shacks 28 vaccinations 238, 239 cricket 209 economy 196-7 courses 32, 135, 141, 183 websites 239, 240 crocodiles 219 Eid al-Fitr 20 dabba-wallahs 65 women’s health 224, 243 cruises, see boat trips electricity 227 safety 222 hepatitis 239, 241 culture 196-7, 205-9, 212 Elephanta Festival 18, 41 street food 63 Hindi 244-6 currency 14 Elephanta Island 55-6 football