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(IA Diaryofidlewoman00elliiala).Pdf COLLECTION OF BRITISH AUTHORS TAUCHNITZ EDITION. VOL. 2038. TEE DIARY OF AN IDLE WOMAN IN SICILY BY FRANCES ELLIOT. IN ONE VOLUME. TAUCHNITZ EDITION By the same Author DIARY OF AN IDLE WOMAN IN ITALY 2 voU. OLD COURT LIFE IN FRANCE 2 vols. THE ITALIANS 2 vols. DIARY OF AN IDLE WOMAN IN SICILY i vol. PICTURES OF OLD ROME x vol. DIARY OF AN IDI.F. WOMAN IN SPAIN 2 vols. THE RED CARDINAI I vol. THE STORY OF SOPHIA I vol. DIARY OF AN IDLE WOMAN IN CONSTANTINOPLE . I voL OLD COURT LIFE IN SPAIN a voli. ROMAN GOSSIP . i vol. THE DIARY OF AN IDLE WOMAN IN SICILY. BY FRANCES ELLIOT, AUTHOR OF "AN IDLE WOMAN IN ITALY," ETC. COPYRIGHT EDITION. LEIPZIG BERNHARD TAUCHNITZ 1882. The Right of Translation *> reserved. TO MY FRIENDS AT MANIACE THIS DIARY is AFFECTIONATELY DEDICATED. 2091426 CONTENTS. CHAPTER I. Page First sight of Sicily. Mythological Associations. Stations on the Line. When shall I get to Reggio ? A 'cute Dog 1 1 CHAPTER H. Beautiful Messina. Gods and Heroes. The Straits. Ancient Rhegium and Modern Reggio 18 CHAPTER III. Queen Messina. The Sickle Harbour. Earthly Birth. Perfidious City. Dionysius, Timoleon, and Agathocles. TheSons of Mars. Hiero and Rome. Saracens and Normans. Cosur de Lion. Charles ofAnjou. Where are your Lovers now? Peter of Arragon. Wrinkles on your Brow. The Grand Monarque. Garibaldi 21 CHAPTER IV. Land Pirates. Fight for Luggage. Walls of Golden Sunshine. Furiosa and the Facchini. Myself a Prisoner. Gallant Rescue ... 29 CHAPTER V. Our Hotels. Distracting Prospects. The Cry of the Beggars. Teutons at the Table d'hdte. Good Wine 33 CHAPTER VI. An Outburst. Street Pictures. Amazing Medley. Gate of the Promised Land 37 CHAPTER VIL " " Cape Pelorus. Poseidon , King of Sicily. Brothers, Ride Hard I Paradise and Peace. Arrived at Faro. The Little Horse ... 40 CHAPTER VIII. Scylla and Charybdis. Legend versus Reality. The Strong Current. Hannibal and his Pilot. Orion's Temple - Hercules crosses from Rhegium. Daedalus. Ulysses and ^Eneas Pass 45 CHAPTER DC. The Normans. How they Spread. Raymond at Aversa. Bras de Fer and General George Maniacs. Robert Guiscard, the Great Count. "Take All You See." Roger beholds Messina across the Strait. Messina's Won 51 CONTENTS. CHAPTER X. Page How the\ live in Messina. The Cathedral. Bullying a Priest. Packed for the Ne*t World. The Virgin's Letter ...... CHAPTER XI. A Harmdtte of Flowers. Campo Santo. Tombs to Let and No Tenants. Prep^rinv' the Dead. Painted Carts. A Substitute for School Boards. What they Teach .......... 64 CHAPTER XII. FromMrssma toTaorimna. Beppo andLuigi. Ruins I Ruins ! -Scarlet (a Beggars. Waiting for the Train. Hellenic Foot-marks. The T-^wn of Ali. Etna. The Foundation of N'axos. Roman, Punic, and Nor- man-Saracenic Remains. Nazos and the Tyrants .... 73 CHAPTER XIII. The Fortunes of Dncetius. Palicia, an Infernal I,ake. Ducctius at Syra- -Shall He Ijve or Die? The Beiutiful Shore. The Last of Dueetios ............ 8t CHAPTER XIV. The Ascent to Taormina. - The Mad Peaks. Modern Taormina. The Hotel. A Polyglot Crew. The Theatre. - Saracen and Norman at Taormina ............ 89 CHAPTER XV. Where b Antonio? Round Etna. The Black Country. -Towns and People. The Ascent. Desolation. A Feudal Castle. The Descent. An Awful Road. Welcome to ManUcc ...... 101 CHAFFER XVI. ary at Maniace." A Mediaeval Monastery. A Ducal Family. - Life the . Home Etna, God-like. General George ManLice . 114 CHAPTER XVII. The Ihichet* and Bino of the Ijon Head. "Balena." -" Too Coi.ifort- able." Walk to the Boschetlo ...... 112 CHAPTER XVIII. - A Picnic. -The Start. Scenery. A Courier Equestrian. A Rural Tragedy and Sup'rstirion. -Otaheite. The Summit. Back with the - again Mr. Curion . Dog*. ererywhere ..... tag CHAPTER XTX. Aei Castello. The Seven Rocks. Polyphemus and Ulysses. Aci Reale. Acts and Galatea .......... , 4 a CHAFFER XX. Catania, Classic and Mediaeval. ChiarisMina or /Elneaf Catania and the Athenian Expedition. Th Theatre. Alcihiades' Oration. -The Cam- pantanv The Carthaginians at Catania. Roman Catania. - Samcens nd Normans. The Hohcnsttufcns . .... 149 CHAPTER XXI. >y. -The Grand Hotel Sicilian Gx>l SudohoiM.- Charondaj and Empedoc:- ljo CONTENTS. 9 CHAPTER XXII. Page - Public Buildings and Gardens. Eruptions of Etna. Irrepressible Catania 160 CHAPTER XXIII. Military Friends. Catanian Bluebeards. A Mysterious Elephant. The 165 Cathedral. St. Agatha CHAPTER XXIV. San Benedetto. The House of San Niccolfc on Etna. Adventures of an Austrian Prince. A Benedictine General. The Supper. The Sleep and the Awakening . 17' CHAPTER XXV. Catania to Syracuse. General X. .The Doctor. Plain of Catania. Lentini. The Unlucky Sicilian Sculpture 183 CHAPTER XXVI. The dreaded Trasborgo. Megara, Hybla. Epicharmus. Glorious Night. Arrival at Syracuse. The Doctor and his Valise. The Hotel. Tableau 1 190 CHAPTER XXVII. "Cicero upon Verres." Ancient Syracuse. Ortygia the Outer City. What to Know. Bad Inns. Good Wines .... .196 CHAPTER XXVIII. Spanish Defences. A Poverty-stricken City. Loved by the Goddesses. The Long, Broad Street. What Hosts have Passed? ... 201 CHAPTER XXDC. The Village Green. National Monuments. Disappointment. Party to Epipoloe. The "Smart Young Man.' "Brook of the Washerwomen." - Timoleon's Villa. -Pagan Landscape 207 CHAPTER XXX. fCpipoIoe. Castle of Euryalus. The Doctor's Notions. Peasants. Who Built the Castle ? The Athenians and their Defences. Gylippus to the Rescue. Revenons a nos Moutons. The Walls of Dionysius. Remains of Ancient Walls on Epipoloe . ... 216 CHAPTER XXXI. " The Two Plains. The Doctor on his Hobby-horse." The Hexapylum and Torre di Galeaga. Archimedes the Necromancer. Marcellus taking Notes. The Romans in Syracuse. Tears of the Victor. The Suppliant City ........... 227 CHAPTER XXX11. A Day inSyracuse. Santa Lucia the Air. Grecian Theatre. Two taking " Queens. Hiero-jtneas. jEschylus and Pindar. Earth and Sea. A Comedy." Phormi*. The Golden Youth. Dionysms at the 1'l.iy. Anecdotes. Tne "Younger" utter Dinner. An Ancient Farce. the Timoleon and Statues. The Theatre and Every-day Life . 235 IO CONTENTS. CHAPTER XXXm. Page The Street of Tombs. Archimedes* Grave. Cicero's Relation. A Mis- nomer ............. 247 CHAPTER XXXTV. - " A Delicate Attention. An Enchanted Region. A Greek Quarry. Dio- ny>ius' Ear." The Ara. The Roman Amphitheatre. Greek and Roman Architecture ... ....... 351 CHAPTER XXXV. Achradina. The Crypt of San Marziano. The Catacombs. Th Sara- cenic Siege. End of Day in Syracuse ....... 260 CHAPTER XXXVI. History of Ortygia. Gelon ofGela. Dionysius fortifies Ortygia. Born to be Born. I ncIeDion turned Enemy. The Fruit of Plato's Teaching. The Deliverers. Timoleon in Syracuse. The Battle of Crimissus. Hiero II. The Last Tyrant of Syracuse ...... 464 CHAPTER XXXVII. Lovely Sea Walk. Pier and Custom House. Arethusa's Fountain. A "Miasmic Ditch." Proserpine's Veil. The Nymph Cyane. The Olympemm. The Necropolis at Polichne. Gelon's Tomb . j4 CHAPTER XXXVIII. Visions. The Great Harbour. The Athenian Fleet. "Try them by Sea." Syracuse Conquers. The Column at Noto. At the Ford. The La- " tomia del I'aradiso. Just as the Greeks saw it" .... 283 CHAPTER XXXIX. Carthaginians in the Great Harbour. Himilcon. Where is Dionysius? The Peitilence. The Attack. The Harbour on Fire. Himilcon Disappears ........... 3pj CHAPTER XL. CmsUe of Maniace. Temple of Juno. Bronze Rams. An Unlucky General. The Normans Revenge Themselves. -General George turns CHAPTER XLI. Minerva's Trmple. The Doctor's lamentations. Diana's Temple. A Tempett Shut Up. How the Sea Roars! -Hotel Miseries. -The Doc- t r'i -An Historical Anxiety. Subject ....... 3oa CHAPTER XLII. I the Compos* HUtory of Aeathocles. Arrival in Syracuse. How He 1 i to Power. -A "Double of The A Dionysius. Carthaginians A(rm. H.ippy Inspiration. -Ho I for Africa. The Burning of the Ship*. A Perfect Eden. Will Carthage be His? Hatnilcar's Head. teturns to Syracuse. Africa Once More. -Both Sons must be Abandoned. The Result of a to Message Menon. Conclusion . 310 THE DIARY OF AN IDLE WOMAN IN SICILY. CHAPTER I. First sight of Sicily. Mythological Associations. Stations on the Line. When shall I get to Reggio? A 'cute Dog. PERHAPS it was six o'clock in the morning, perhaps seven the sun was shining brightly. It woke me. I sat up in the solitary compartimtnto .where I had passed the night coming from Rome to Bari and Taranto, down the coast line of Calabria, rubbed my eyes, dashed down the window, and looked out. Was it clouds? Or a mirage? A dream? Or a vision of that paradise to which all good people are hastening? Ah! let me gaze at it before it melts away! That anything so lovely could be real, never came into my head! Across the sparkling sea, some twenty miles ahead, the island of Sicily rises before me, purple and blue, and opaline, shaded in tints no human hand can paint, a stupendous mass of piled up mountains, sweeping down in heavenly lines to meet the azure sea. Nothing but mountains, not a span of level land, with Etna throned 14 DIARY OF AN IDLE WOMAN IN SICILY. in the blue sky a dome of dazzling snow, towering above all! Along the golden sand just tipped with creamy surf, town after town, village, burg, and tower, bluff, cape, and castle-topped headland, rocky promontory, bay, and bight come gradually into view like a procession. To each curve of the beauteous coast answers an echoing curve of beauteous sea, spread over with masses of flitting light and shade, soft morning mist and purple mysteries linger- ing from night A hundred arcs answer to a hundred indentations and wide sweeps; rocky barriers break into needle points, and there are broad forelands of rich and glowing hues, brown, porphyry-red, and sage. Weary as I am after nearly forty hours' continuous travelling, I mentally decide that I would willingly per- form the distance twice over to behold such a sight At this moment we are slowly steaming along the sandy coast of Eastern Calabria, amid an undergrowth of cactus and tamarisk, close to the sea.
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