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The Medici Municipalities of the Prato Area and www.pratoturismo.it ENG The Medici Municipalities of the Prato Area POGGIO A CAIANO AND CARMIGNANO

Poggio a Caiano and Carmignano are the Medici heart of the Prato area and a destination for unforgettable holidays in the name of art, culture and well-being. Those who visit these places, lying on splendid hil- ls spread of vineyards and olive groves, will discover the heart of where Lorenzo de’Medici and the Grand Duke of Tuscany Ferdinando I built, in the period of greatest splendor of the Florentine family, two splendid , today UNESCO heritage. In this

2 idyllic Tuscan countryside, you can visit and admire Medici villas, museums, Romanesque churches and Etruscan sites; you can cycle up and down the hills or walk the Medici Route. Stops are a must and not only for a proper rest but also to enjoy the excellent Car- mignano DOCG wines, Vin Santo with biscuits, dried figs and many other delicacies in the numerous re- staurants and farmhouses. So, have a good holiday in the Prato side of Montalbano!

3 THE MEDICI MUNICIPALITIES PRATO AREA

Poggio a Caiano

oggio a Caiano extends fame to the Still Life Museum whi- over the last foothills ch has been opened inside it since of Montalbano towards 2007. Attached to the are the the Prato plain. It is an Medici Stables which, in addition to important crossroads being a multipurpose space, house on the edge of the plain between Flo- the Ardengo Soffici and Italian 20th rence, Prato and both for its century Museum. Although Poggio a strategic position and for the presen- Caiano developed mainly around the ce of the superb Medici Villa, Unesco hill where the Medici Villa stands, heritage, which with its beauty and there are other hamlets in the sur- its history makes this small town a roundings: Santa Cristina in Pilli, real gem. To connect the Grand Ducal Bonistallo and Poggetto. possessions, the Medici Villa of Pog- gio a Caiano with the Cascine Me- dicee park divided by the Ombrone River, in 1833 the Leopoldo II Bridge was built by the architect Alessan- dro Manetti, one of the first rope su- spension bridges built in . The bridge blown up in 1944 by the retre- ating German army, was inaugurated in 2019 after a meticulous and care- ful restoration and is now accessible on foot and by bycicle. In addition to the Villa, the municipality owes its

4 mat in Paris, counselor of the king in Filippo Mazzei Warsaw and friend of the first five (1730–1816) presidents of the United States. Fi- lippo Mazzei has held multiple roles Doctor, philosopher, diplomat and and experienced two revolutions, the essayist, was born in Poggio a Ca- American and the French one, pro- iano, but he was a “Citizen of the moting not only the ideas and values World”. A man with many lives who of the Enlightenment but also what lived in ten countries on three diffe- will be known as ‘Made in Italy’. Due rent continents: surgeon in , to Mazzei’s contribution to Ameri- Constantinople and Smyrna, mer- can independence, Poggio a Caiano is chant in London, farmer and liberal twinned with the town of Charlotte- activist in , writer and diplo- sville in Virginia (U.S.A.) since 1977.

5 THE MEDICI MUNICIPALITIES PRATO AREA

Carmignano

t covers an area of seum in Artimino. Carmignano is 38.59 sq km among the therefore a charming area, full of gentle hills of the Pra- surprises and able to offer various to side of Montalbano. opportunities for visits: imposing In addition to the chief villas among which the Medici Villa town Carmignano, there are seve- La Ferdinanda in Artimino, Unesco ral and important hamlets: Artimi- heritage, ancient churches such as no, Bacchereto, Comeana, La Serra, that of SS. Francesco and Michele Poggio alla Malva, Santa Cristina in Carmignano, which hosts the be- a Mezzana, Seano and Verghereto. autiful Visitation by Pontormo, the Inhabited by man since the Paleoli- Parish Church of San Leonardo in thic (about 20,000 BC) it was from Artimino, the Abbey of San Giusto al the 7th to the 1st century BC seat Pinone. In Seano, we find one of the of the important Etruscan center most prestigious outdoor sculptural of Artimino and of other connected complexes in Europe dedicated to settlements, of which splendid ar- a single author: the Quinto Martini chaeological monuments remain: Museum Park. The local trattorias the orientalizing Tumulus of Mon- allow you to rediscover the ancient tefortini and Boschetti in Comea- flavors of traditional cuisine and the na (8th century BC), the necropolis many wine bars and farms to taste of Prato Rosello in Artimino (6th the excellent wine of the area, with century BC) and the archaeological the opportunity to read up on the area of Pietramarina. The finds of history and production of the pre- these areas are kept in the “Fran- stigious Carmignano wine at the cesco Nicosia” Archaeological Mu- Museum of the Vine and Wine.

6 The Visitation meeting between Mary and Elizabeth by Pontormo who, wrapped in large cloaks appear as if raised on tiptoe. The two impo- It is located in the Parish church of SS. sing figures are “duplicated” by two Michele and Francesco in Carmigna- other female figures, seen from the no and is one of the highest master- front, with a motionless and absent pieces by Jacopo Carucci known as gaze, witnesses of the prodigious Pontormo, born in Pontorme (Em- event. On the left of the painting two poli) in 1494. The Visitation, which other small figures, perhaps St. Jose- dates back to 1528-1529, depicts the ph and St. Zacharias.

7 The Medici villas

he Villa in Poggio a Caiano is the one you come across first coming from Prato. Commis- sioned by Lorenzo the Magnificent and built on a project by Giuliano da Sangallo between 1484 and 1520, it was the summer residence of the Medici and the scene of important events in their dy- nastic history. Between 1865 and 1871 (the period in which Florence was the capital of the Kingdom of Italy) Vittorio Emanuele II and the Countess of Mirafiori, known as “the beautiful Rosina”, stayed there. The villa overlooks a large park with an adjoining neoclassical lemon house and the stables that now house the Ardengo Soffici and Italian 20th century Museum.

8 THE MEDICI VILLAS PRATO AREA

verlooking the hills and vineyards of Montal- bano, in a dominant position on the hill that had already hosted a sacred area at the time of the Etruscans, is La Ferdinanda Medici Villa, built in 1596 at the behest of the Grand Duke Ferdinando I de’ Medici, on a design by Bernando Buonta- lenti. Born as a hunting house, it was completed in just four years and represented a sort of link between the various landed properties of the family, a place dedicated to the hu- manistic otium of arts and poetry.

93 Museums

Still Life Museum are exhibited, including his famous samples of the fruits produced in Housed since 2007 on the second the Grand Duchy of Tuscany which floor of the Medici Villa of Pog- depict, in detail and with scientific gio a Caiano, it is dedicated to still precision, the countless qualities lifes and paintings of naturali- of citrus fruits, grapes, pears, pe- stic subjects coming from the col- aches, cherries, apricots, apples, lections of the Florentine galleries figs and plums which, between the and belonging to the Medici. The end of the seventeenth and the be- Florentine Bartolomeo Bimbi is ginning of the eighteenth century, the absolute champion in the mu- were produced in the countryside seum, of whom fifty-nine works and gardens of Tuscany.

10 MUSEUMS PRATO AREA

Ardengo Soffici and Italian 20th century Museum

Located inside the Medici Stables, it represents, together with the book collection kept in the library dedicated to Soffici, a fundamen- tal center for the knowledge of this protagonist of the twentieth cen- tury culture. The paintings made between 1904 and the Sixties allow the visitor to follow the creative arc and the stylistic contribution of this artist with a European character.

Archaeological Museum of wine, the three bucchero censers from the 7th century BC, an extraor- Francesco Nicosia dinary turquoise glass bowl, perhaps originating from the Middle East and Located in the village of Artimino, the finally, the funerary equipment of a museum documents the important young warrior. In Comeana, a visit to Etruscan settlement that flourished the princely tumulus of Montefortini in the area from the 7th to the 1st is a must, a monumental artificial hill century BC. The wealth of this sett- that hides two large burial chambers. lement was connected to the control In Artimino you can visit the necro- of land trade and confirmed by the polis of Prato Rosello with its five discovery in the tombs of luxurious tumulus, while on the top of Montal- artifacts that attest to the high social, bano stands the archaeological area economic and cultural level achieved of Pietramarina from where, on clear by the local elite from the seventh days, you can see the sea. century.BC. The museum exhibits ar- tifacts found in the necropolis of Pra- to Rosello, Comeana, Artimino and Pietramarina. Of considerable value are the grave goods by Grumaggio, with the large crater decorated with red figures with Dionysian scenes, the bronze vases for the preparation

113 MUSEUMS PRATO AREA

Quinto Martini Museum Park

The park is dedicated to Quinto Martini, sculptor and painter born in Seano and introduced to art by Ardengo Soffici, of whom he was pupil and friend. Designed by the architect Ettore Chelazzi, it stands on a green area of over 30,000 square meters along the Furba stre- am, in the evocative natural setting of the Carmignano hills in Seano. Inaugurated in 1988, it represents one of the most prestigious outdo- or sculptural complexes in Europe dedicated to a single author. In the Park there are 36 bronze sculptures by the author cast from works crea- ted between 1931 and 1988.

The Museum of Vine and Wine It is located in the center of Carmi- gnano and tells the story of the wine produced in this area, a story wi- sely represented by about 800 fine bottles, cabrei and ancient maps of farms and estates, agricultural to- ols and finds testifying to the fame of Carmignano wine from ancient times to today. The most important document is undoubtedly the regu- lation of the Grand Duke Cosimo III de’ Medici which established strict production standards for Carmi- gnano wine, an example of how the times in the denomination of con- trolled origin were anticipated.

12 3 Ancient churches and abbeys

he most significant 12th, apparently at the behest of the ones date back to the Countess Matilde di Canossa. Also medieval period. They not to be missed is the church of San were located at the Michele in Carmignano, which hou- crossroads of travelers ses the Visitation by Pontormo. Other and pilgrims and each still retains a Romanesque masterpieces spread special charm, first of all the Abbey throughout the territory are the 12th of San Giusto, in its sober and im- century church of San Pietro in Ver- posing Romanesque style, surroun- ghereto, the church of Santa Maria ded by rich vegetation at the foot of Assunta in Bacchereto, built around Pietramarina peak. The abbey, now the year 1000, the small parish chur- a national monument, was the refe- ch of San Lorenzo in Montalbiolo, rence point for many travelers, like also from the 12th century, and the the nearby hermitages of Sant’Alluc- churches of San Pietro in Seano and cio and San Baronto. It is said that to San Michele in Comeana, from the guide the travelers lost in the winter 10th and 13th centuries. Finally, the season was a bell, called “the Lost”, 11th century church of Santa Cristina which rang out at sunset. Another in Pilli should also be mentioned and particularly suggestive church, a that of Santa Maria Assunta in Bo- real Romanesque jewel, is the Pa- nistallo, documented since the thir- rish church of San Leonardo in Ar- teenth century, in which the bowels timino, probably built in the 10th of Francesco I de’ Medici and Bianca century and partially restored in the Cappello were buried in jugs.

133 Siege of the Villa Recurring events Every year, on the third weekend of September, Poggio a Caiano and its Feast of S. Antonio January - Poggio a Caiano Villa commemorate the Grand Du- chess Giovanna d’ who, du- Festival delle Colline ring a stay, waiting to get married July - Poggio a Caiano and Carmignano with Francesco I de’ Medici, to show Poggio in Vetrina satisfaction with the good welco- every thursday in July - Poggio a Caiano me given to her by the local people, Calici di Stelle ordered a free distribution of wine August - Carmignano from the of Mascherone, positioned on the perimeter wall of Siege of the Villa the Medici villa. The three days of September - Poggio a Caiano celebrations re-propose this event Feast of S. Michele and Donkey Race with the distribution of wine, per- September - Carmignano formances and installations from Benvenuto Fico Secco the Renaissance period and a full October - Carmignano program of cultural and gastrono- mic events. Ancient Fair of Carmignano December - Carmignano www.assedioallavilla.com

14 Recurring events

Feast of S. Antonio January - Poggio a Caiano

Festival delle Colline July - Poggio a Caiano and Carmignano

Poggio in Vetrina every thursday in July - Poggio a Caiano

Calici di Stelle August - Carmignano

Siege of the Villa September - Poggio a Caiano Feast of San Michele

Feast of S. Michele and Donkey Race September - Carmignano On the 29th of September is the feast of the Patron Saint of Carmignano and also the culmination of the feast that for three days sees the town di- Benvenuto Fico Secco vided into four distinct districts: that of the Archangel (Light Blue), that of October - Carmignano Art (Green), that of the Lion (Yellow) and that of the Tower (White), which Ancient Fair of Carmignano challenge each other with allegorical floats. During the festival there is also December - Carmignano the Donkey Race whose outcome, together with the score received for the parade, determines the final winner.

15 A TERRITORY TO VISIT SLOWLY PRATO AREA

A territory to visit slowly

he Montalbano area is smooth and sunny, a real surprise for those who love walking in nature without excessively challenging rou- tes. The Medici Route from Prato to Fucec- chio is the ideal route for those who want to enjoy slowly this wonderful territory, rich in art, history and nature and also a connection point with the Wool and Silk Route, which from Prato reaches Bologna, and the Via Francigena that intersects it in Fucecchio. www.viamedicea.it

16 A TERRITORY TO TASTE PRATO AREA

A territory to taste

ine is certainly one of areas of the Grand Duchy of Tuscany. the musts of the area, The “Motu proprio Decree” and or rather Carmignano the “Bando” in fact regulated pro- diWine. In Carmigna- duction, geographical limits and the no wine was produced trade of wines produced in these are- since the Etruscan and Roman ti- as with precise rules, constituting the mes, as evidenced by the discovery first existing “DOC” in the world. To- of vases inside some Etruscan tom- day Carmignano wine is appreciated bs. The quality of Carmignano wine all over the world so much that the has always been highly appreciated Carmignano Riserva 2016, produced over the centuries: the famous Prato by the Piaggia farm, received the re- merchant Francesco di Marco Datini, cognition of the best red wine in Italy at the end of 1300, bought Carmigna- by the Gambero Rosso guide. Carmi- no wine at a high price for his cellar gnano has beaten all the flagship wi- in Prato (recently brought to light). nes of the peninsula, including that Furthermore, the Carmignano wine Sassicaia, which in the 2015 version, production area was chosen by the was declared number one in the wor- Grand Duke Cosimo III de’ Medici (in ld by Wine Spectator! 1716) as one of the four wine-growing

173 A TERRITORY TO TASTE PRATO AREA

Carmignano extra virgin olive oil boasts a long tradition and a pro- duction of excellence; it has obtained the “Toscano” PGI recognition, with the additional geographical mention of “Montalbano”. The dried fig is a dotted fig of excellent quality but it is above all the drying and appiccia- mento technique, typical of Carmi- gnano, that makes the difference, so much so that since 2001 the Car- mignano dried fig has its own disci- plinary and is a Slow Food protected product. The product, the result of an almost familiar process, is usually put on the market during the Ancient Fair of Carmignano, on the first Tuesday in December, when the typical sugary efflorescence (“bruma”) has formed on the surface of the “picce”.

18 HOW TO GET TO PRATO AREA How to get to POGGIO A CAIANO AND CARMIGNANO

FOR THOSE COMING BY CAR FOR THOSE COMING BY BUS A 11 Prato Est and Prato Ovest exits LAM blue line SP 66 Florence-Pistoia

INFO POINT PRATOTURISMO Piazza del , 59100 Prato Ph./fax +39 0574 24112 [email protected] - www.pratoturismo.it

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TOURIST INFORMATION OFFICE PROLOCO POGGIO A CAIANO Via Giuliano da San Gallo - 59016 Poggio a Caiano (PO) Ph. +39 055 8798779, [email protected]

TOURIST INFORMATION OFFICE PROLOCO CARMIGNANO P.zza Matteotti, 31 - 59015 Carmignano (PO) Ph. +39 055 8712468, [email protected]

Photo credits: Adriana Pagliai, Francesco Bolognini, Marco Badiani, Giovanni Giannoni, Luca Tonin, Lucilla Righi, Stefano Roiz, Comune di Carmignano, Comune di Poggio a Caiano.

19 Prato Tourist Area includes the municipalities of: Prato, Cantagallo, Carmignano, , Poggio a Caiano, , www.pratoturismo.it

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