[email protected] Chef’s CV: Jason Atherton Current: After all 020 7479 6959 ______this experience, I felt ready to Born: Sheffield, 1971 open my own Dine place, and on Training: 18 April Pollen • At the age of 16, I knew I wanted Street Social elcome to the latest issue of This issue’s Focus on feature celebrates to be a chef. I don’t know where will welcome WDine. It’s so exciting to be an unusual but effective ingredient pair- the inspiration came from – my its first custom- part of the London restaurant scene, ing – cheese and whisky. I’ve been hear- mum could cook but people ers. I’ve always which is bursting with news and ing more and more of wouldn’t have travelled for miles to dreamed of what my own restaurant openings this spring. For starters, this coupling and eat her food. would be like – from how I would many chefs are launching solo Our top five wanted to under- • Working in the kitchen at the Coun- conduct my chefs to what cutlery I’d venues in the capital. most booked stand the theory ty Hotel in Skegness, I was the only use – and now I think, ‘My God, it’s ______behind it. Both one to go out and buy cookbooks actually happening.’ Jason Atherton made the products offer and to practice my knife skills. news when he left Gordon 1. Dinner by Heston huge diversity, • In 1989, when my mother was on Pollen Street Social will embrace the Ramsay’s empire, having and you can current wave of passion for good 2. Hakkasan Mayfair holiday, I booked a one-way ticket to created Maze, a concept find them at London. Knocking on the doors of food and ensure everyone can enjoy 3. Zuma that has been expanded any restaurant, all the top chefs, I was finally given a fine dining experience. I’ll be in around the globe. Now going 4. home or dinner a chance by Boyd Gilmour. On my the kitchen at every service, and solo, we interviewed him for 5. The Ivy party. This should days off I was doing unpaid work at customers can expect a regularly our Chef’s CV, which looks at inspire you to try ’s , changing menu. I don’t do signature his journey that led to opening his the combination on until he gave me a full-time position. dishes – it’s not my style. My food own restaurant – Pollen Street Social. your next night out. • In 1992, I joined Marco Pierre evolves. I might be in Japan and be White at Harvey’s, before moving blown away by a dish and use its Our New in town choice had to be As always, we value immensely your to Restaurant at flavours in my cooking. Dinner by Heston, living up to its feedback, comments on and participa- the Hyde Park Hotel. hype as the opening of the decade. tion in the Dining Club service. If you • In 1998, I backpacked to Barce- Future: It’s far too early to tell if I will Many members have already visited would like us to feature a venue that’s lona and slept on the beach before open more restaurants, but I cer- and given glowing feedback, some of dear to you or somewhere you want to cycling to El Bulli in search of a tainly hope so. If I do branch out, my which you can read in this issue. The find out more about, do not hesitate to job. My determination paid off and restaurants will not have my name verdict from me and the team here is contact us. I became the first British chef to splashed all over them. In my opinion that it’s a must-try and an absolutely complete a stage in Ferran Adrià’s a restaurant should live – or die – by winning addition to the capital. We hope you esteemed kitchen. the food, service and atmosphere. enjoy reading • In 2002, I joined the Gordon Ram- Also in Knightsbridge, Zuma has been this issue of say group as executive chef for Verre There is a real interest in and passion a consistently hot booking, always Dine. and Glasshouse restaurants in Dubai, for good food in the UK at the mo- on members’ lips and popular in our before heading up Maze in Mayfair ment and as a chef you can’t rest on weekly table availability update. Our Hernan and the in 2005, winning it a Michelin star your laurels. Luckily, the country has Icon section explores why we love Dining Club and expanding the brand across the some seriously talented and enthusi- Rainer Becker’s constantly evolving team globe, including openings in Mel- astic chefs and the restaurant scene cuisine and the restaurant’s range of bourne, Cape Town and New York. can only get better. dining options for different occasions.

[email protected] 020 7479 6959 New in town: Dinner by Heston History has also inspired the laid-back dining room, and it’s hard to decide whether its views across Hyde Park are more alluring than those of its open Blumenthal kitchen. Dark woods are accented with leather and tweed while playful details are peppered throughout: look for jelly-mould lights and the disappearing Must-try modern medieval dining from cookbooks. Circular medieval-style chandeliers hang from the high ceiling and the UK’s most experimental chef the centrepiece is a mechanical pulley system, modelled on a 16th-century de- ______sign, that wheels hypnotically above the open kitchen and operates the spit.

mandarin arrives on a wooden The chef’s table commands the best view Aboard, a sprig of green leaves of the kitchen and grants diners an un- still attached to its dappled skin. precedented insight into Blumenthal’s Members’ feedback But cut it and instead of peeling rind research. Staff reveal the story be- ______you’re slicing through jelly. Instead of hind every course as it’s served, and fruit, its flesh is chicken liver parfait. explain how an outlandish creation I’ve had the pleasure of going such as Meat Fruit makes perfect twice since it opened (re- Meat Fruit (c.1500) is among the signature sense in its historical context. served through Ten). Service dishes at Dinner, Heston Blumenthal’s restaurant and food were impeccable on at the Mandarin Oriental, which has rediscovered and reinvented Britain’s ‘In the past, especially during medieval both occasions and I even had culinary past. If the chef’s Fat Duck is a laboratory at the fringe of food sci- times, living conditions and standards the pleasure of seeing the big ence, then Dinner is a library where research inspires invention. were very poor and food storage was man himself on Monday. ‘Britain’s culinary history has always inspired me,’ Blumenthal told Dining primitive,’ Blumenthal explains. ‘Without Club, ‘but I really got into researching it after meeting the food historians refrigeration, most food was eaten with from Hampton Court Palace in 2003.’ strong smelling ingredients such as rose oil to mask the smell of ‘off’ Members’ feedback Months spent mining ancient tomes along- produce. However, there was a lot ______side Ashley Palmer-Watts, his long-term of theatre in dining in the days Members’ feedback collaborator and head chef at Dinner, before TV, Game Boys and We had table 11, by the kitchen, with ______have yielded a menu drawn from computers, so the recipes we a good view of the action, and not centuries of royal court banquets. It researched were entertaining too noisy. Fantastic food, notably the Thank you for the table. Exceptional takes a brigade of 25 staff and two to say the least. The Meat Meat Fruit and the wing of Angus - the evening was a gastronomic kitchens to prepare these regal Fruit was inspired by that.’ rib with amazing wine sauce and triumph. Tasting the hay-marinated creations. Beef Royal (c.1723) is chips. Great wine list as well; we mackerel and Meat Fruit, we could cooked in a water bath for 72 Dinner plans to serve after- had a lovely Thierry Mortet Gevrey- not recall such excitingly complex hours, giving it a buttery tex- noon tea and is working on Chambertin 2007. Friendly, efficient food, with a vast variety of flavours ture, and Tipsy Cake (c.1810), its private dining menus. service; you wouldn’t believe it’s that worked together magnificently. soaked in Sauternes and made Blumenthal also said it will only been open a few weeks. Ashley Followed by the cod in cider and from spit-roasted pineapples, is be constantly ‘developing Palmer-Watts came to our table at powdered duck, both excellent. The a must-try dessert. and reviewing’ its menu – my request to sign our menu, and highlight was the Tipsy Cake, with which could involve a return to sat down and discussed the restau- the best tasting spit-roasted pineap- Blumenthal explained: ‘We haven’t Hampton Court. ‘There were so rant with us. The whole experience ple I’ve ever eaten. The sommelier copied the exact historical recipes. many recipes and other culinary works. We will be trying to go back! recommended the best Chablis on It’s more about taking the essence archives there,’ he says. The future the menu, which was superb. of the original dish and creating of British cooking, then, is in its past. something flavourful and modern.’

[email protected] 020 7479 6959 Icon: Zuma The 10-course tasting menu – fea- turing wagyu beef and finishing Members’ feedback: More than just exquisite sushi with delectable chocolate fon- Gauthier Soho ______dant with caramel and praline – ______is very popular with members hen it launched in Knights- as it gives an overview of the We were looking for Dean Street Wbridge in 2002, Zuma was an eclectic plates available. Townhouse for a quick dinner, instant hit. Almost a decade later, when we stumbled upon Gauthier, glamorous Londoners return to the The kitchen creates a focal which I had only vaguely heard atmospheric venue for its consistent point where diners are enter- of. Excellent service and wonder- quality. Before joining Zuma, German- tained by the chefs’ culinary ful food. Michelin-star quality and born Rainer Becker spent six years as drama. There are three principle one of the best meals (including executive chef at the Park Hyatt Tokyo, kitchens; their dishes are avail- outstanding value) I’ve had in a sparking his passion for Japanese culinary able throughout the restaurant. Of while. culture and inspiring his restaurant vision. the private dining options, members He now travels between Hong Kong, Istanbul, prefer the tasho table – it’s set back from the main dining room but retains Dubai, Miami and London, overseeing the cooking and Members’ feedback: sharing his infectious enthusiasm. the buzzy atmosphere. If you don’t have a reservation, head for the sushi bar where Hawksmoor Seven Dials ______The hip restaurant is modelled on Japan’s izakayas, casual taverns that serve a places are on a first-come, first-served -ba wide range of dishes, but the food is far from relaxed because of Becker’s un- sis. Killing time at the bustling bar will soon Worth the wait to get into; compromising attention to detail. With its modern, angular decor, Zuma could become a pleasure rather what a great space, decor easily feel minimalist and cool, but its clean lines are offset by the exposed than a chore. and lighting, not to mention stone, blonde wood tables and slatted screens, which lend warmth. Satomi the 1.1kg chateaubriand we shared. I still think their beef Members can’t get enough of Zuma, thanks to the varied experiences Okubo, Exclusive offer:Home House tops all the competition. on offer. While the menu includes dishes Zuma’s that have been on it from day one, it sake som- 25 per cent membership discount is constantly evolving to incor- melier, ______currently Members’ feedback: porate the chef’s new crea- tions and seasonal ingredi- recommends Spice Market As a Dining Club member, you can ents. The well-thought-out Isojiman ‘Omachi’ ______enjoy three visits to all parts of dishes use a variety of Junmai. She says: ‘This is a really exciting Home House private members’ club techniques and remark- sake; the brewery behind it took six years Interesting place. Good bar as a taster. You can also receive 25 able meticulousness, to find the perfect rice. Its elegant, deli- downstairs. Food is mostly per cent off the joining fee (usu- creating inimitable dining cate aroma and crisp, tidy finish make the competent and some very ally £1,800) and jump the list to from start to finish. The perfect accompaniment to our dishes.’ good – the main course beef become a Home House member menu begins with small strips were high quality and immediately, with no referral by plates such as thinly-sliced With all this success, Zuma is surprisingly perfectly cooked. The wine existing members necessary. sea bass with yuzu, truffle oil still without a Michelin star. Despite being list is reasonably priced with overlooked, it remains a constant fixture in a good spread of wines. and salmon roe, followed by im- pressively presented sashimi and sushi our members’ top five most booked restaurants so intricate it seems a shame to dismantle it. and serves some of the best sushi in the city.

[email protected] 020 7479 6959 Focus on: Whisky and cheese The Balvenie DoubleWood, for exam- ple, is matured in both bourbon and Malts to match what’s on the board sherry casks. Angelo says: ‘It has a Exclusive offer:Marcus ______light spiciness, toffee, honey from Wareing at the bourbon and fruitiness from hocolate and honey. Almond and the sherry. It’s a great match for Chef’s table special price Corange peel. Shortbread, lemon Alex’s Blue Monday, which also ______drops, grass and vanilla. has spicy and sweet notes.’ Dining Club members can To the uninitiated, whisky is a brash Strength is important too. visit ’s chef’s spirit. But whisky sommelier An- Medium-bodied Speysides can table at a price of £150 per gelo Gobbi wants to help novices and complement delicate cheeses person (five people mini- enthusiasts alike discover the complex that would be overwhelmed with mum) during March and flavours of the 270 bot- a peaty Islay malt. ‘You could April, for all lunches and for tles at his bar in the never match a smoky Ardbeg with dinner on selected days. Athenaeum Hotel. a cream cheese,’ Angelo explains. Members’ feedback: And to do so he’s enlisted But there are no set combinations, and Polpetto an unlikely companion to tour the whisky world with: cheese. the fun lies in discovering the unexpected. ______Angelo’s own experiments are punctuated with eureka moments. ‘We were ‘I see a lot of people who want a cheese- sipping the Aberfeldy 12-year-old when a light went off in my head,’ he Great energy, charming board at the end of their meal,’ he explains. says. ‘The spiciness of the whisky was a perfect match to parmesan.’ service and delicious food. ‘They’ve finished the wine they had with Just thought you’d like dinner and don’t want another bottle. They Whether you’re pairing a smooth bourbon with a creamy slice of Suffolk to know. They don’t take want something to go with it, but not port. Gold or the Bowmore 15-year-old with dark chocolate, Angelo’s top tip is bookings, but it’s perfect So I said let’s do whisky and cheese.’ to take your time. ‘Never rush. Take a sip. Add a few drops of water and for a walk-in early in the see how the malt changes. Take another sip. If you want to drink whisky week. The principle is simple: find malts that match you need at least an hour. If you can’t spare the flavours of the cheese without over- that time, then don’t do it.’ Members’ feedback: powering it. The difficulty is in challeng- Tempo ing preconceptions. ‘Some people think Members’ feedback: ______whisky is ‘in your face’, but it’s not,’ he Galvin La Chapelle Members’ feedback: says. ‘You’ll discover vanilla, toffee, ______Thank you for suggesting floral and chocolate notes as well as Bocca di Lupo Tempo; it went down well. smoke and peat.’ ______Excellent as always. Service The very pleasant front of is understated but friendly house manager even fig- Angelo fused his whisky knowledge Excellent for dinner. and fun. Exceptional food. ured out who I was before I with the expertise of Athenaeum chef Even though there’s An unexpectedly lovely spoke. Well-executed food David Marshall and Alex James, Blur a limited vegetarian venue in the middle of the – not flashy, and not what bassist turned cheese guru. ‘We had selection, everything city. I cannot recommend I expected given the Japa- seven or eight different cheeses and 30 was great, so my com- it highly enough and have nese link. I’d go again. whiskies. Some of the combinations were panion was happy. not had a bad experience in awful, but we slowly started to find matches.’ more than ten visits.

[email protected] 020 7479 6959