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Chef Pierre Koffmann Takes Noble Rot on a Non-Stop Tour of His Favourite London Kitchens. Words by Dan Keeling Photos by Elena Heatherwick

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Chef Pierre Koffmann Takes Noble Rot on a Non-Stop Tour of His Favourite London Kitchens. Words by Dan Keeling Photos by Elena Heatherwick London Express Chef Pierre Koffmann takes Noble Rot on a non-stop tour of his favourite London kitchens. Words by Dan Keeling Photos by Elena Heatherwick Pierre Koffmann, Kricket, Brixton, 20th April 2016 72 Noble Rot Noble Rot 73 he trouble with chef, far happier working the want to be successful you’ve visiting six of stoves than schmoozing on got to be tough, you’ve got to T London’s best young the celebrity circuit, impose your ideas. If I chefs with Pierre Koffmann Koffmann’s inspired blend of wanted something to be done is the sheer volume of fine dining and rustic Gascon a certain way, my cooks had wonderful, calorie-laden peasant food has been a to do it that way, and after, creations that demand standout fixture on the when they got their own instant hoovering on pain of capital’s restaurant scene for restaurants, they could do it causing offence. As problems over 40 years. With a the way they liked.” go it’s a good one to have but reputation as a down-to-earth Arriving in London in as Noble Rot tucks into our but demanding boss, he has 1970 to watch the French second tasting menu of the been responsible for helping play the English at rugby same lunchtime we can’t help to train a hugely successful and deciding to stay on for wondering whether today is alumni of chefs including ‘6 months’, Pierre first took a turning into an I’m A Jason Atherton, Marco job at Michel and Albert Celebrity Get Me Out Of Pierre White, Gordon Roux’s renowned Le Here-style challenge to eat Ramsay and Tom Aikens. He Gavroche in Mayfair, rising more top restaurant food clearly takes an altruistic quickly through the ranks to than one of France’s most pleasure in helping younger become head chef of the celebrated chefs. Having generations. “I’ve got a great brothers’ next venture, begun the day with fried relationship with many of my The Waterside Inn in Bray. chicken at East London’s old chefs,” says Pierre, citing After a few years he decided Chick ‘n’ Sours, followed by Tom Kitchin and La Petite it was time to set out on his monkfish liver at Lyle’s and a Maison’s Raphael Duntoye as own and in 1977 opened lightening quick tasting menu two he’s still particularly La Tante Claire with his first at the nearby Clove Club, it’s close to. “Tommy first came wife Annie, where he held not even 2pm and dim sum is to see me with his mum and three Michelin stars until I said to myself ‘Pierre, if you years that, in true Koffmann in there, but the food is rolling out of A Wong’s we’ve still got a good taking retirement when she keep doing that by next year style, has now turned into six. beautiful. The best of all is kitchen in Victoria like it’s connection today. There were passed away in 2003. you’ll be dead’. So I did some Our Uber pulls up outside Kricket – I admire anyone going out of fashion. As Noble also guys like Gordon and It wouldn’t be until 2009 that consulting and then Dalston’s Chick ‘n’ Sours and who opens a restaurant in a Rot crunches into our second Marco who were beautiful diners who still dreamt of his Selfridges asked me to do a we slide off its faux-leather sea container. It’s nice to see deep-fried quail’s egg we cooks. But their passion was world-famous food, like pig’s pop-up restaurant on their seats into the early morning young people starting their glance across the dining table not cooking, their passion trotter stuffed with roof for a week, which then sunshine. “One of the things own business like that. at our esteemed Gallic dining was to be on TV.” With a sweetbreads and morel turned into eight weeks. I really admire about young The worst is when you start companion, still reputation as a disciplinarian mushrooms, were finally able In eight weeks we served chefs is that they don’t go for a business with someone else enthusiastically dipping in in the kitchen (somewhat at to savour it again. “I went 3,200 pig trotters. I’ve done the most luxurious putting up the money, and and out of various assembled odds with his laid-back and travelling for a while but many other things, but I’ll restaurants,” Pierre says, you end up working for them wicker steaming baskets and friendly persona out of it) when I came back I was doing always be remembered for taking in the restaurant’s all your life. They’ve all we steel our resolve to eat I ask whether he thought nothing, getting bored,” pig’s trotters… I don’t mind,” austere urban facade. “In the started small and are onward to glory. After all, that some of his chefs were Koffmann tells Noble Rot as he smiles. Following the 1980s chefs all loved to have successful.” Opening early to we’ve only an Indian scared of him? “Of course,” we approach our first huge success of his pop-up, the best-looking restaurants, accommodate our unorthodox restaurant and a ramen he chuckles in his deep destination of the day. “I was Pierre had several proposals but that’s changed now. breakfast (Chick ‘n’ Sours is noodle bar left to visit over French baritone. “People getting out of bed at nine in from backers to set up his There is no décor at all in usually only open for dinner), the next couple of hours. called me ‘the bear’, not ‘the the morning and going for a own restaurant once more, Lyle’s, or even at The Clove we enter a deserted dining It’s no surprise that every teddy bear’. I come from cappuccino, having lunch before signing a three-year Club. It looks a little dirty room and spot chef and owner kitchen we visit really wants the Pyrenees, where they’ve somewhere and then going lease at Knightsbridge’s from the outside and you Carl Clarke hard at work, to impress Pierre. A chef’s got real bears. I think if you back home for a little siesta. Berkeley Hotel: a three don’t know if you want to go through the kitchen hatch. Above: Ready for breakfast: Pierre ‘The Bear’ surveys Chick ‘n’ Sours 74 Noble Rot Noble Rot 75 Noble Rot: When did you bad, and I love all styles, but of the fuss and the frills and Chick ‘n’ Sours first meet Pierre? if I want to eat fried chicken I putting a new perspective on 390 Kingsland Road come here. When you eat things. London E8 4AA Carl Clarke: I got a random high quality like this, you phone call about nine months enjoy it. Everything here is PK: Everything has evolved. ago saying that Pierre nice – the salad is beautiful, 30 years ago restaurants Koffmann was coming in and it’s crunchy, it’s not over were much more traditional, nearly fell over. seasoned.” where people went to eat traditional food. Young NR: What do you think NR: Carl, there are several people were scared to come has made Chick ‘n’ Sours other restaurateurs who, to La Tante Claire in case such a success? like you, have gone from they held their knife or fork dance music into running incorrectly. More casual CC: It sounds simple, but we their own places (Layo dining is a great thing. use the best quality Paskin at Palomar, James ingredients we can find. We Murphy at The Four use herb fed chicken from a Horsemen, Luke After tucking into Carl’s farm in Yorkshire called Hill Unabomber at Volta etc). delicious house fried chicken Moor Grange Farm. The Why do you think that is? with watermelon and a side hardest thing for a poultry of green slaw, we bid our host farmer to do is to sell the dark CC: I think everyone just a fond farewell and arrive at meat because everybody grew up. It’s great that a new Lyle’s on Shoreditch High wants to buy the breasts, generation of people have Street a little before10.30am. but we really wanted to get gone into restaurants with a the best chickens we could new energy, taking away a lot Coffee please! find, so I said we’d take every leg and wing they could supply. We get our vegetables from a commune in Cornwall; these hippy new age travellers set up a farm in the 1980s, and now they’re like alchemists. An email address including explains about his journey arteries, a delicious high- the moniker ‘Carl Disco’ from DJ and dance music quality version made using NR: Do you cook fried gives a clue as to Carl producer to chef serving over the finest ingredients most chicken Pierre? Clarke’s previous career. 200 covers on a busy weekend certainly is. With plans to “Everything we do involves night. Whilst fried chicken open Clarke’s vision of a Pierre Koffmann: No, we music, food and art, and a few might not be anything new, Chinese restaurant don’t do that in France. I’m years ago I started messing especially considering the downstairs (called Chinese not an expert in fried chicken around with ideas and put on preponderence of dreadful Restaurant Syndrome) and a or Chinese or Italian food, I a fried chicken pop-up,” the strip-lit fast food shops second site in Covent Garden, keep with French cooking.
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