canadian DESTINATIONS

Canada’s Yukon Strike Gold or Discover Your Own Remote Oasis THE ROSSEAU RESORT A Muskoka Winter Wonderland Experience! TORONTO GETAWAY The Ultimate Romantic Couple’s Getaway Weekend! Fall / Winter 2008

PLUS International Feature! A Whole Lot of Craic in SouthernIssue Ireland.1 - 2007 1 Departments

3 EDITOR’S NOTE 44 TRAVEL TECH Canadian Destinations presents it’s TOP 10 Picks for 2010!

45 INTERNATIONAL FEATURE Ireland Playground: A Whole Lot of Craic in Southern Ireland features

6 CANADA’S YUKON So Far Away, But Yet Oh So Close! FALL / WINTER 2008 29 THE ROSSEAU RESORT A Muskoka Winter Wonderland Experience!

37 TORONTO GETAWAY The Ultimate Romantic Couple’s Get away Weekend!

Canadian Destinations 2

22 Canadian Destinations editor’s note

e are very pleased to offer Canadian Destinations as a travel guide for our home. Canada offers a unique diversity in scenery and culture, with rich history and passionate people. The goal of Canadian Destinations W is to highlight places of interest within the country to make travel in Canada a more informed vacation choice. Each issue provides information on destina- tions, resorts, hotels, spas, restaurants, and more, giving the reader travel tidbits which are helpful when deciding on places to go and what to see.

This issue features a variety of some great known, and perhaps not so known, Canadian Destinations. First we feature Canada’s Yukon: So Far Away, But Yet Oh So Close! As we experienced first-hand it was hard not to miss the numerous grizzlies near Haines Junction and the beautiful rugged remoteness of The Golden Circle. We then take you to the Muskoka’s for a one-of-a-kind winter wonderland at the new Rosseau Resort. To top it off we share a Ultimate Romantic Couple’s Get away Weekend in Toronto!

We are pleased to bring you a new International feature where we highlight some of the travel offerings available to Canadians wanting to venture out of the country to Southern Ireland. Starting in we sent our photojournalists to Wexford, Tramore, Ardmore, and more. We hope you will enjoy this feature which is outside the lines of what is normally featured in our magazines: Canada.

-Nathalie Ellison

Issue 1 - 2007 3 Canadian Destinations 3 canadian. DESTINATIONS

PUBLISHER Canquest Media Publication Director Chris Ellison [email protected] Editor & Nathalie Ellison Publication [email protected] Coordinator

Assistant Editor & Shirley Glover Artistic Director Publication Assistant Barbaralee Vail Graphic Designer Chris Ellison

ADVERTISING SALES FOR CANADIAN DESTINATIONS IS HANDLED BY CANQUEST MEDIA 1/2 Page Email: [email protected] Advertisement Tel: (519) 476-9611

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4 Canadian Destinations Canadian Destinations 6 Issue 1 - 2007 5 Canadian Destinations 79 The Yukon is not as far away as you might think.

ast year I received an email from one of my travel radio show listeners asking me why we did not offer much cov- erage of Canada’s Yukon on Canadian Destinations. I did Lnot have an answer to that question and so decided to make the Yukon a priority. The internet was a great information source for my background investigation of the Yukon. www.travelyukon. com provided me with much information about the region. The Yukon is historically know for it’s Gold Rush. The history of the area, originating about 110 years ago, expands through five significant geographic locations in both the United States and Canada, namely Seattle, Dyea and its Chilkoot Trail, Skagway, Bennett Lake and Dawson City. The Yukon is a huge, but thinly populated land the approximate size of California with a population of only 35,000, most of whom live within the bor- ders of its capitol, Whitehorse. Positioned above the 60th parallel in northwestern Canada and sharing its border with Alaska, it’s branded slogan “larger than life” fits this topographically diverse and rugged territory. Because of the Yukon’s high latitude, it experiences more than 20 hours of daylight in the summer, but fewer than five in the winter, replaced, instead, by the northern lights known as the aurora borealis. Some communities are even accessible only by floatplane or dogsled, which only adds to its uniqueness as an out-of-the-ordinary travel destination. I contacted Jim Kemshed, Media Liaison of Yukon Tour- ism and Culture and explained my intentions to visit the Yu- kon and he was able to support me with some great ideas and opportunities. I admit that as the plans were coming together I found myself becoming quite excited at the opportunity to experience this relatively undiscovered Canadian geographical ‘goldmine’ firsthand. My trip began with a flight into Vancouver from Toronto and ended with a relatively short flight over the rugged and picturesque Rocky Mountains and into the Yukon. I arrived in Whitehorse just after 12:00am. The midnight sky looked more like dusk rather than the blackened nighttime skies I was used to in Ontario. Fatigued from the trip, although surprisingly in- vigorated just the same, it seemed prudent to get some sleep so that I was rested enough to boldly Grizzlies are face the grand adventures that powerful creatures, awaited just a few hours away. To weighing up to 300 my surprise, the constant dim light kg. They must eat a flowing into the window did not lot to support their disturb the quality of my sleep as I thought it would. In fact the light size: in the fall they on that evening and throughout consume up to my trip was interestingly energiz- 200 000 soap ing. berries each day!

Issue 1 - 2007 6 Canadian Destinations 6 Canada’s Yukon

Issue 1 - 2007 7 Canadian Destinations 7 Whitehorse, Yukon I awoke the next morning and explored Whitehorse, I learned that Whitehorse’s healthy economic base a lovely little city full of friendly and easygoing people. The includes mining and tourism, as well as transportation and Wilderness City as some people call it, (Whitehorse) is nestled government services. It offers a vast range of activities and on the banks of the famous Yukon River and is surrounded by adventures for visitors who can enjoy the arts, photographic mountains and clear mountain lakes. It has a metropolitan and opportunities, unique dining, hiking, canoeing and a multitude vibrant feel to it and is populated with over 22,000 inhabitants. of very diverse scenic drives. For the history buff, Whitehorse Whitehorse can be described as having a healthy economy, af- offers numerous heritage attractions, such as the MacBride Mu- fordable housing, quick access to the great outdoors, and being seum and the restored sternwheel steamboat S.S. Klondike. rich in small town values.

Dezadeash Lake, near Dalton Trail Lodge, is a warm and shallow lake. It is rich in plant and animal life. Here you can catch lake trout up to 30 pounds, northern pike to 20 pounds, arctic grayling, whitefish and burbot. For outstanding fishing tours visit www.daltontrail.com Issue 1 - 2007 8 The Golden Circle Whitehorse is a part of a regional feature called The The Golden Circle gets its name from the common Golden Circle, which also encompasses the Yukon’s Haines thread that binds the region, gold! The discovery of gold in Junction and Carcross and Alaska’s Haines, Juneau and Sk- Juneau, and later in the Klondike, led to the development and agway. The latter three are connected by The Alaska Marine establishment of the communities located along the route. Each Highway ferry system (www.dot.state.ak.us/amhs), a beautiful community has grown and diversified over the past 100 years, way to experience the unique splendor of the region. Driving but it was the lure of gold that sparked the spirit of discovery. I across the region you will experience a variety of landscapes, would recommend a road trip 3-5 days to fully enjoy the Golden including barren, treeless plains, boreal forests, rugged moun- Circle and remember to take proper photo identification when tains, glaciers, and mirror-reflective lakes and rivers inhabited you cross the border. by Canada’s First Nations people and abundant wildlife.

Strike Gold or Discover Your Own Remote Oasis Issue 1 - 2007 9 Canadian Destinations 9 Issue 1 - 2007 10 Canadian Destinations 10 You may come into contact with bears in Haines Junction but play it safe! Bear behaviour is hard to predict because they are complex animals. Each bear is an individual with the potential to react differently in different situations.

Haines Junction, Yukon When traveling around Canada I am always on the around the fire pleasantly conversing about their adventures, lookout for those special destinations that surprises me with a moose unexpectedly rushed past their location. As they sat their uniqueness. On this trip, approximately an hour and a dumbfounded by this unusual event the unthinkable happened. half west of Whitehorse on the Golden Circle I encountered A grizzly bear bounded after this moose knocking Wade over. this in Haines Junction. I vividly recall the rugged mountains… He recalled watching as the bear ground to a halt approximately the flowing rivers… the pristine lakes...and the huge grizzly 50 feet later to look back at them, perhaps wondering what bears!!! Statistically, the region is known as having the most exactly had occurred or whether or not the humans would be a grizzly bears per square kilometre in all of Canada. The inhabit- better catch. Unfortunately for the bear, the group had already ants in the region take this very seriously and will not venture made it to the boat and were madly paddling away for safety. out without some kind of protection or bear deterrent. I recall One night I ventured out to see some bears and ran on one tour the female tour operator carried an airhorn in one into the most incredible grizzly as it nonchalantly sauntered up hand and a long handled axe in the other. When I asked the the side of the highway eating plants on the roadway. After reason she very matter-of-factly stated “This [airhorn] is what I cautiously watching it for a while, mesmerized, I spent the next use if a bear is spotted in the distance, and this [axe] is what I hour and a half taking pictures of it. There was one instance, use if the bear gets too close.” however, when I got a little to close. The bear knew I was there I recall another incredible story told by expert tour and did not seem bothered by my presence so it came within guide, Wade Istchenko owner of Kluane Ridin’ Adventure Tours approximately 15 feet of my car. Realizing how dangerously when he took me on a very off road ATV adventure up into the close I was to the bear, and recalling the commitment I made mountains. He described an incident when he was leading a to my wife to not do anything stupid, I cautiously moved to a tour by boat and the small group had floated ashore for some further distance and, instead relied on my telephoto lenses to rest and to start a small fire on the lake front. While sitting catch images of the mammoth creature. Over the next couple Issue 1 - 2007 11 Canadian Destinations 11 12 Canadian Destinations Canadian Destinations 12 The wilderness surrounding Haines Junction supports healthy populations of many species of animals. Two easily accessible locations, recommended below, will likely reward the viewer with a sighting. But catching a glimpse of a wild animal is most often a chance happening, an unexpected surprise. Early morning and evening are the best times of the day for seeing wildlife; grizzly bear, black bear and moose are some of the animals that might be spotted. Wolves are very shy of people, but members of local wolf packs are occasionally seen. Visit www.hainesjunctionyukon.com for more information. Issue 1 - 2007 13 Ca-

An all time favourite is Sifton Air’s breath-taking flight over the entire length of the majestic Kaskawulsh river valley and up the Kaskawulsh Glacier. Its spectacular confluence with the South arm Glacier is the most photographed site in Kluane. Visit www.yukonairtours.com for more information.

of days in Haines Junction, and on other parts of the Golden mountain ranges and nearby lake I found Wade’s stories about Circle, I saw many more grizzlies and black bears, as well as the region, his army days and his present role as a Sergeant in countless other wildlife not found in Ontario. I realized I had the Canadian Rangers fascinating. gotten a little spoiled when, toward the end of my trip and On another evening during my time in Haines Junction, after having spotted yet another black bear crossing the road I went for an absolutely astounding flight through the moun- remarking to myself with disappointment “oh, it’s only a black tains with Sifton Air’s, Ben Jones, a man who has spent most bear.” The bears are beautiful and fascinating to observe and I of his career as a float plane operator. The benefit was that am grateful that I was able to see them firsthand. he is more familiar with, and admittedly loves, flying along the The ATV ride through the mountains with Wade was river beds rather than thousands of feet above the ground, too terrific and offered interesting and diverse challenges. We far up to see anything interesting. I held my breath as he flew climbed rocks, rode over fallen trees and splashed through the plane between the mountain peaks, and at one point we streams. In some areas we made our own trails, and although coasted only 20 feet above a river where we spotted a bear it poured rained some of the time, it added to the adventure. and a Moose at the rivers edge. The scenery was spectacular Eventually we got a little too soggy and we stopped on a moun- and I enjoyed the magnificent and extremely remote ice fields, tain’s edge where Wade built a fire and made some lunch. Wade such as Kaskawulsh Glacier as well as North America’s largest was a very interesting gentleman approximately my age and mountains including Mount Logan. I would encourage visiting although we had some things in common, there were some Sifton Air’s website at www.siftonair.com. very interesting differences. As we sat there peering over the Two other draws to Haines Junction include Dalton 14 Canadian Destinations Canadian Destinations 14

Issue 1 - 2007 15 Canadian Destinations 15 16 Canadian Destinations Canadian Destinations 16 The Kaskawulsh Glacier extends from the northeastern slope of the St. Elias Mountains in the Yukon Territory. Where the two arms converge to form the Kaskawulsh glacier, the width is 5-6km

Issue 1 - 2007 17 Canadian Destinations 17 Canadian Destinations 2

Trail Lodge and Paddle/Wheel Adventures. Dalton Trail Lodge must point out that, while in the region, one should not miss (www.daltontrail.com) not only offers luxury accommodations out on an adventure to Haines, Alaska which is considered the and gourmet meals, but it also offers Yukon Fishing, Hiking, central point in the Golden Circle. The drive along the Haines Outdoor Adventure, ATV, Wildlife Watching and Canoeing tours. Highway is absolutely beautiful. Once you pass through British Paddle/Wheel Adventures (www.paddlewheeladventures.com.) Columbia and eventually cross the border towards Haines you offers personalized tours such as raft floating, fishing, hiking, will find yourself lost in pristine beauty surrounded by abun- mountain biking and white water rafting. They also rent moun- dant wildlife and endless opportunities for outdoor adventure. tain bikes and canoes and have two attractive guest cabins for You will soak up the surroundings with experiences from ex- rent. treme adventure to simple pleasures at a leisurely pace. Some of Haine’s highlights include wildlife, outdoor adventure, fishing Haines, Alaska and hunting, unique museums & area attractions, artists and Now although I am featuring Canadian destinations I shopping. A focus on culture and history is rich in Haines since it is located on the shores of the Lynn Canal and is home to the 18 Canadian Destinations Canadian Destinations 18

Chilkoot Lake

Haines is known for the abundance of wildlife and can be seen practically anywhere in the valley, even in the downtown area. One of the richest sources during this time is a late chum salmon run in the Chilkat River near Haines. You may find Grizzlies and Bald Eagles in great numbers, depending Lutak Inlet on the season. Issue 1 - 2007 19 Canadian Destinations 19

first permanent army post in Alaska, Fort William H. Seward. through the rugged mountains. The Carcross Desert is known If you are looking for a variety of unique adventure as the smallest desert in the world and Spirit Lake heralds its experiences in the Yukon or Alaska then you do not have to look emerald green colors and was shaped by retreating glaciers any further than Alaska Mountain Guides & Climbing School, thousands of years ago are also along this drive. based in Haines. Established in 1992 and operated by Sean Another fascinating little town I encountered is Car- Gaffney, Jason Gaffney and Darsie Culbeck, Alaska Mountain cross. This beautiful tourism destination is situated about an Guides & Climbing School has been the premier adventure hour from Whitehorse. Originally known as Caribou Crossing it guide service and climbing school in Alaska. Programs include, is on Lake Bennett and Nares Lake, 68 km south-southeast by exceptional climbing, trekking, skiing and sea kayaking adven- the Alaska Highway of Whitehorse to the Klondike Highway and tures that visit some of Alaska’s and the Yukon’s most unique has a population of 437. Caribou Crossing is fishing and hunt- and intriguing places. The company has won awards from Na- ing camp for Inland Tlingit and Tagish people. 4,500-year-old tional Geographic for its outstanding tours. Visit the company’s artifacts from aboriginal people living in the area have been website at www.alaskamountainguides.com found in the region. Caribou Crossing got its name from the Some of the other features that make Haines unique migration of huge numbers of caribou across the natural land include the numerous grizzlies and bald eagles that populate bridge between Lake Bennett and Nares Lake. The caribou herd the area, its historic hammer museum and the historic and was decimated during the Klondike Gold Rush, but a recovery beautiful Hotel Halsingland (www.hotelhalsingland.com) which program raised the number of animals to about 450. is situated in the Fort Seward area of town. There is a lot to experience in Haines, Alaska and I suggest visiting the Haines Dawson City, Yukon Tourism website for more information at www.haines.ak.us. I finally returned to Whitehorse and prepared for the On the way up the side of the Golden Circle are nu- next leg of my Yukon journey. In the planning stages of my trip, merous sights and towns you will encounter. Starting from Sk- Jim Kemshed asked me if Dawson City was being considered as agway, also revered as the gateway to the Klondyke, you will a destination. Originally, I thought it was too far to visit, but Jim experience the historic White Pass Railway which snakes its way assured me that inclusion of Dawson City was imperative. 20 Canadian Destinations Canadian Destinations 20

Issue 1 - 2007 21 Canadian Destinations 21 22 Canadian Destinations Canadian Destinations 22 An all time favourite is Sifton Air’s breath-taking flight over the entire length of the majestic Kaskawulsh river valley and up the Kaskawulsh Glacier. Its spectacular confluence with the South arm Glacier is the most photographed site in Kluane. Issue 1 - 2007 23 Visit www.yukonairtours.comCanadian Destinations for more information. 23 So, from Whitehorse I made my way up to Dawson City, Yu- There are interpretative programs and tours around kon’s oldest city, which is approximately 6 hours of rugged and the city and in the Klondike gold fields you can try your luck beautiful driving distance away. Once I arrived, I was in for a panning for gold at one of their operating gold mines. Depend- treat, it was like stepping into the past because Dawson City is ing on the season, other features worth the experience include the heart of the Klondike Gold Rush. This amazing city has pre- the Aurora Borealis, November Caribou Migration on the Demp- served its past so well that you almost feel yourself transported ster Highway, the International Short Film Festival, Dawson into a past era that was so important to Canada’s history. City Music Festival and The Yukon Quest which is the longest Dawson City represents the character and adventure dogsled race in the world! of the world-famous Klondike Gold Rush. As a bit of history, in I also spent some time on the great Yukon River. Yukon August of 1896, three Yukon “sourdoughs”, George Carmack, means “great river” in Gwich’in. The river was called Kwiguk, or Dawson Charlie, and Skookum Jim found gold in Bonanza Creek “large stream”, in Yupik. During the Klondike Gold Rush the Yu- and their discovery triggered what was arguably the world’s kon River was one of the prin- greatest gold rush stampede. With the promise of seemingly in- The Tutshi River Can- cipal means of transportation. stant, easy wealth, nearly 100,000 people sought to strike it rich yon Suspension Bridge Paddle-wheel riverboats con- in the Klondike gold fields By 1898 Dawson City was a modern is near White Pass tinued to ply the river until city of nearly 40,000. Today, gold seekers still visit Dawson City Railway in Fraser, BC. the 1950s when the Klondike and it is not unusual to find visitors and locals knee deep in the This narrow, swinging Highway was completed. river panning for a shot of striking it rich. One hotel worth mention bridge crosses the Tut- While in Dawson, you can toddle along the wooden is the Aurora Inn (www.au- boardwalks, saunter the dirt streets and visit national historic shi River Canyon and rorainn.ca), where I stayed treasures. You can visit some of it‘s signature destinations, such is located on the South while in Dawson City. It was as Diamond Tooth Gerties Casino, Dawson City Museum and Klondike Highway, just established in 1998 and of- The famous Westminster Hotel, otherwise known as “the pit.” a few miles north of the fers the cosmopolitan feel of You will also observe the interesting effects the permafrost has White Pass Railway a major hotel in a quiet com- on the buildings and architecture. train station. fortable setting. 24 Canadian Destinations Canadian Destinations 24 Dawson City represents a facinating inigma for me. It proffers a distinct meltingpot of generations of inhabitants who quietly make it their way of life and those who seem to simply want to get away from common society.

Issue 1 - 2007 25 Canadian Destinations 25 26 Canadian Destinations Canadian Destinations 26 Issue 1 - 2007 27 Canadian Destinations 27 The Aurora Inn is within walking distance of attractions such as and savoring the uniqueness of the region. Whether your pas- the Palace Grand Theatre and Dawson City’s shopping district sion lies in pursuing outdoor adventures, participating in cultur- and galleries. Because of its traditional and gourmet cuisine al events and festivals, or enjoying a comfortable ride through dining, the Aurora Inn Hotel is rated “Best Kept Secret of the extraordinary scenery, you’ll find it all on a Yukon vacation. Per- Yukon!” haps many Canadians think the Yukon is just too far away, but Some of the other amazing experiences while in Daw- it is only a relatively short plane ride from Vancouver. Perhaps son City included a city tour offered through Parks Canada, people think the Yukon is so remote there is nothing to do, but a trip down the river with Fishwheel Charter Services (www. after returning from a fun-filled and action-packed adventure, yukonweb.com/tourism/fishwheel) and panning for gold with I’ve discovered there is a lot to keep one busy. The Yukon has actual prospector Jerry Bryde who owns Claim 33. Also, I ex- something for every traveler. It offers active adventures, fun, perienced what might be a Dawson rite-of-passage at Captain historic sites, great shopping, and no shortage of very unique Dick’s World Famous Sourtoe Clocktail Club. The practice in- beauty! volves drinking an authentic Sourtoe Cocktail in the presence of In retrospect, I remain in awe of the region. After all witnesses. You are offered an alcoholic beverage with an actual my adventures I now realize that the Yukon is a place for all toe at the bottom of the glass donated by a variety of people Canadian’s to visit. The Yukon is truly a beautifully unique and over the years and if the toe touches your lips, you are awarded remote Canadian region that needs to be seen in order to un- an official Sourtoe Certificate. Read more about this at www. derstand all the beauty it has to offer. For more information sourtoecocktailclub.com. about the Yukon visit www.travelyukon.com. Canadian Destina- Surprisingly, the flight back to Whitehorse only took tions Travel Radio program can be found at www.TopCanadian- about an hour and I spent my last night milling around the city Destinations.com.

One of the most impressive reminders of the past in Dawson City is Palace Grand Theatre in King Street, built in 1899 by the American Arizona Charlie Meadows and restored in 1962 by order of the Canadian Government. Home of the Fiddleheads presentation of the Fiddlerush. 28 Canadian Destinations Canadian Destinations 28 The Rosseau Resort A Muskoka Winter Wonderland Experience!

Have you ever wondered what it would be like to visit the Magical North Pole at Christmastime?

Issue 1 - 2007 29 Canadian Destinations 29 ust imagine the festive seasonal colours festooned throughout, a 12 foot me- Jticulously decorated tree, the relaxed sounds of good cheer by people joyfully in- teracting, the enticing aroma of sumptuous food and the surrounding wintry panorama of snow covered pines lining a mostly frozen shoreline. Sound too good to be true? Well, these are only a few of the seasonal plea- sures my family and I experienced recently at the brand new Marriot offering called The Rosseau, A JW Marriott Resort and Spa. Starting in our snow-less hometown several hours away we enjoyed the slowly transforming winter scene as we came closer to Muskoka. Although it is just over a couple of hours north of Toronto, it was the last 30 minutes of our trip where the excitement heightened. The roads were surprisingly well groomed, the amount of snow fallen increased the further we drove north and it seemed like we were entering a different world. It was as if Lake Rosseau was covered by an invisible Christmas barrier that sepa- rated it from the rest of the world. The scene in all directions was truly majestic and almost story like. As we finally turned on to The Ros- seau property and wound our way along the road to the hotel we were surprised at how expansive and beautiful the resort was. When we parked and headed into the exquisitely decorated lobby of The Rosseau, the trans- formation from our regular lives was almost complete. Finally, when we walked into our room and observed the comfortable opu- lence of the décor, we felt spoiled with luxury. 30 Canadian Destinations Canadian Destinations 30 The Rosseau, the first JW Marriott resort in Canada, is located in the heart of the Muskoka Lakes

Issue 1 - 2007 31 Canadian Destinations 31 The Rosseau is located in the Muskoka region of Ontario which, over the years, has become the pri- vate playground of Toronto’s leading families and more recently Hollywood celebrities and sports stars. The region is dotted with picturesque villages and towns, farming communities and grand lakeside hotels. The ac- tual resort celebrates all that is treasured about Musko- ka with a magical blend of a north woods escape and the luxury of a premier vacation resort. It is set amidst 1400+ acres of forest, trails and lakes and overlook- ing picturesque Lake Rosseau and will appeal to those seeking a unique atmosphere in a grand resort setting. We discovered there is a lot to do at The Ros- seau no matter what time of year you visit. While other resorts shut down in winter the Rosseau prides itself as a four season destination. Some of the many winter expe- riences to enjoy include heading out on the resort trails and exploring Muskoka along with their staff on guided snowshoe or cross-country ski treks either during the day or by moonlight. The Rosseau is the ideal starting point for a snowmobile adventure with access of 2,000 km of beautifully groomed trails in the region. Also of- fered is an out-of-the-ordinary astronomy presenta- tion geared to the whole family. Using top of the line equipment (including an equatorial mounted 11” Cele- stron Schmidt-Cassegrain telescope) visitors will have

An adventurer’s paradise, this Ontario resort boasts an array of indoor and out- door activities for all seasons. Right: the opulence and relaxation offered in one of it’s high- end rooms. 32 Canadian Destinations Canadian Destinations 32 Issue 1 - 2007 33 Canadian Destinations 33 the opportunity to view the planets, nebulas and dis- and truffle. Teca tantalized our senses in it’s upscale tant galaxies through field and observatory programs. Italian atmosphere and the menu suggested some rare In our downtime, we enjoyed sitting around Italian wines which made it a true culinary experience. the fire in our room, watching some Christmas spe- I must point out that although The Rosseau Re- cials on satellite, playing chess, backgammon and sort is truly a winter wonderland with lots of outdoor reading in the The Rosseau library while enjoying activities, the resort is most alive and active in the sum- a cup of hot apple cider supplied by the hotel. We mer months. Whether you choose to spend a quiet also spent lots of time swimming in their beauti- summer’s morning paddling the shoreline as the sun ful and warm inside/outside pool amidst the back- rises, or an adventurous fall afternoon exploring the drop of lightly falling snow and winter landscape. rugged terrain by ATV, you’ll find it all at The Rosseau. The few uniquely exceptional dining options In addition to the multitude of prime activi- at The Rosseau throughout the weekend provided us ties, such as waterskiing, boating, mountain biking, with delectable fine dining. Teca restaurant was the horseback riding and ATV adventures, golf is a very high point for our family. The classic Italian cuisine in- popular. “The Rock” The Rosseau Resort’s featured new cludes agnolotti so delicate it practically melts in your golf course, offers a world class experience and draws mouth, handmade gnocchi, great steaks and scrump- on the incredible drama of Muskoka’s natural wilder- tious flatbreads. We ordered the Rack of Lamb with ness and majestic outcrops of granite. It’s a spectacu- balsamic grilled asparagus and roasted garlic jus and lar 6,650 yard, par 71 championship course that can well as the Agnolotti with sweet potato and mascar- be enjoyed spring, summer and especially in autumn. pone paired with mushrooms, arugula, goat cheese 34 Canadian Destinations Canadian Destinations 34 You’ll never feel crowded at The Rosseau. On it’s expansive property are numerous areas to sit back and enjoy the tranquility of beautiful Lake Rosseau and the resort’s many other ammedities focused on relaxation!

Issue 1 - 2007 35 Canadian Destinations 35 The Rosseau was a winter wonderland for our family. I would highly recommend visiting anytime of year. For us, we will definitely be back again next year and we are even thinking about staying Christmas Eve through Boxing Day. I would encourage anyone to visit The Rosseau online to learn more about their many packages offered at www.RedLeavesMuskoka.com.

Relax in the comfort of your hotel room, with Muskoka stone fireplace, fridge, oversize bathroom. An adventurer’s par- adise, this Ontario resort boasts an array of indoor and outdoor activities for all seasons. 36 Canadian Destinations Canadian Destinations 36 T The Ultimate Romantic Couple’s O Getaway Weekend! R O N T Toronto offers a wonderful variety of experiences geared O to couples Issue 1 - 2007 37 Canadian Destinations 37 hen you come to the realiza- tion that your relationship W needs a boost, it might be time to plan a weekend getaway for your partner. Sometimes you need to get out of your comfort zone and plan an out of town experience that will offer the diversity, adventure and romance that can breath new life into your relationship. I guarantee you will certainly discover such an experience in Toronto. Toronto offers an eclectic list of activities for all interests. Whether you are looking for an adrenaline packed weekend, one filled with the arts, or a romantic weekend away, Toronto is a city where such a weekend of enrich- ing experiences awaits you. As well, a weekend full of fine dining and spa treatments can be found in Toronto and you can leave the city feeling revived and ready for everyday life again. I was told that Toronto had some extraordinary romantic opportu- nities so, during a recent trip to Toronto with my wife, we checked some out for ourselves. I first visited Tourism Toron- to’s featured website at www.seetoron- tonow.com to find some ideas. What I found was amazing and I was eager to make some bookings and get started. We decided to stay at Westin Harbour Castle (www.westin.com/harbourcas- tle), a CAA/AAA Four Diamond Award hotel with 977 rooms, twin tower rising 38 stories above scenic Lake Ontario, and located near major attractions, including the Air Canada Centre, CN Tower, Financial and Theatre districts. Upon our arrival, I was pleasantly sur- prised by the elegance of the spacious marble lobby, with floor to ceiling win- dows. Some of the amenities include an above average gym, an outdoor 38 Canadian Destinations Canadian Destinations 38 tennis court, indoor heated pool and whirlpool. The room itself was spacious, modern, comfort- able and very elegant. Our 32nd floor view of the lake in one direction and the CN Tower in the other direction was incredible. Left page: shots of Westin Harbour Castle at Once we settled into our lovely room, night and room. Right page: Pier 4 Restaurant we took a short ten minute walk two blocks offers a very unique dining experience. south of the CN Tower and Rogers Centre, along the Queens Quay, to the Pier 4 Storehouse Res- taurant (www.pier4.ca). This restaurant has been a tradition on Toronto’s waterfront since 1978 and is authentically decorated with a nau- tical theme, accented with remnants of the past. Pier 4 Storehouse is surrounded on three sides by water. From its very beginnings, Pier 4 has been associated with romance and intrigue and the sumptuous personal experience rein- forced this to us as we enjoyed the savory sup- per. After dinner we took a cab up Yonge street to the Princess of Wales Theatre for an amazing award-winning Mirvish production (www.mirvish.com) of The Sound of Music. Both my wife and I have seen the movie over

Issue 1 - 2007 39 Canadian Destinations 39 the years and wondered how the theatre would be able Castle for the night where we relaxed and looked for- to capture the mood, setting and music of the show but ward to tomorrow’s adventures. the production was outstanding and the musical came The next morning we got up bright and early to life. We were quickly drawn in and left cheering for had a delicious buffet breakfast at the hotel and headed more. Satisfied, we returned to our The Westin Harbour for Elmwood Spa. This relaxation oasis has been in exis-

40 Canadian Destinations Canadian Destinations 40 tence for many years and is a gem that attracts visitors and a Couples Swedish Massage in a beautifully deco- from far beyond the boarders of Toronto. This is likely rated room with a fireplace warming the background of because it is much more than the Sapphire Suite complet- just an ordinary spa. Elmwood ed our comfort and luxury. Spa consists of two restaurants, Feeling surprisingly relaxed a juice bar, 34 treatment rooms and happy, we sauntered and luxurious change rooms outside and down Yonge with expanded amenities. It’s Street where we spent time water therapies include a swim- ducking in and out of the ming pool, whirlpool and steam unique shops before a nice rooms which provide comfort, lunch at one of the local convenience and flexibility. Visi- restaurants. In the early af- tors can be rejuvenated from ternoon, we made our way head to toe and enjoy special- to the Panasonic Theatre ized services that can even in- on Yonge Street, where we volve a Kodo Body Massage, watched another very differ- which is a rhythmic massage that leaves the body’s en- ent performance called My Mother’s Lesbian Jewish Wic- ergies ‘laughing with joy’. LI’TYA healing rituals, inspired can Wedding. It was certainly not what we were used to by Australian Aboriginal healing rituals which are exclu- or would have normally chosen, but both of us were sur- sive to Elmwood Spa in Canada are also unique. Experi- prised by the excellent story and found ourselves laugh- ence them yourself at www.elmwoodspa.com. ing hysterically at this witty and creative experience. Nathalie and I enjoyed the use of Elmwood Spa’s We spent the remainder of the afternoon visit- complimentary Water Therapy Services, which helped ing some of Toronto’s tried and true, but always new CN us slow down and relax and shut out the outside world Tower and The Royal Ontario Museum. Hungry after a

Left page top: Sound of Music, bottom Elmwood Spa’s Water Therapy oasis, Right page top: spa treatment, bottom Fuzion Resto-Lounge & Garden and sumptuous sampling.

Issue 1 - 2007 41 Canadian Destinations 41 Toronto Harbourfront landscape. Photo by Chris Ellison 42 Canadian Destinations Canadian Destinations 42 wonderful and adventurous day of activities, we dined unique shops, waterside restaurants, lakeside board- at Fuzion Resto-Lounge & Garden (www.fuzionexperi- walks, artisan gardens and harbour boat tours, art and ence.com). We sat in the restaurant’s infamous private craft exhibitions, readings, music concerts, theatre and couple’s table called “The Nook” and enjoyed dance shows, family events. To learn more visit a wide array of tasteful delights. We were www.harbourfrontcentre.com. fortunate to meet Executive Chef Sam Gir- A little chilly from the romantic skate at gis and experience, first hand, his eclectic Natrel Harbourfront Skating Rink we need- fusion cuisine. ed a little something to warm us up and Later we headed to Toronto’s Na- to top off our trip. We found our relief at than Phillips Square where we were fortu- Adam & Eve Chocolatier just a short taxi nate to watch the spectacular 43rd annual ride away for a private chocolate tasting. Cavalcade of Lights Festival’s Opening We were treated to what we agreed was Night Celebration. The festivities began surely the best hot chocolate ever tasted at 7:00pm with the lighting of Toronto’s of- and a personalized chocolate tour with ficial Christmas tree along with live musical Alex Young. He explained that Adam & Eve performances by Steven Page, Matt Dusk, Kes- Chocolatier is a European style chocolate store hia Chante, and Fritz Helder & the Phantoms, un- and Barista dessert lounge. We experienced their der the music direction of Adrian Eccleston. The concert artisan chocolate truffles, unique chocolate creations culminated in a spectacular fireworks display and was and desserts which include Belgium waffles and gelato followed by a skating party on the iconic rink with tunes made in-house. We found this company truly unique provided by DJ Tony Sutherland. To learn more about and the variety of chocolates out of the ordinary. Plan a this event visit www.toronto.ca/special_events. visit yourself and first visit them online at www.aechoc- After the fireworks and live entertainment, and olatier.com. using the Toronto Transportation Commission (TTC) I must admit that Nathalie and I were feeling subways and streetcars we explored a few of the fea- ready to leave this wonderful Toronto oasis because we tured neighbourhoods where some of the Cavalcade were starting to miss our kids. Both energized, it was of Lights were displayed. Although we visited Bloor- clear this getaway allowed us to appreciate each other Yorkville, Chinatown, Downtown Yonge, and the Water- more and our life in our own hometown. Toronto is a front areas there were many other areas from which to great place to visit, and I can even see living there. At choose. Exhausted, we made our way to our hotel were the risk of sounding a little corny, what Toronto now we happily disappeared for the night. represents to Nathalie and I is a place where we can go The morning arrived and we were geared up for for renewal, both personally and in our relationship. We another day of excitement. After breakfast we left our will be back, and hopefully very soon. There is so much hotel and walked west along the Queens Quay to To- Toronto has to offer that can be explored, we will need ronto’s one-of-a-kind Harbourfront, which offers arts, several more weekends of respite to appreciate it all. We culture and recreation. Beautifully located on 10-acres already have our list of ‘must-do’s’ for our next grand ad- at the heart of Toronto’s waterfront, Harbourfront Cen- venture to the tried and true, but always new, Toronto! tre is Canada’s leading Centre for contemporary culture, attracting more than 12 million visits each year. Operat- ing year-round with more than 4,000 events annually, the majority of them free to the public, there are always plenty of things to see and do. Some of these include Issue 1 - 2007 43 Canadian Destinations 43 TRAVEL TECH Photography equipment ideas that are sure to enhance your shooting experience! As technology advances in the industry of photography there are greater opportunities than ever before to attain professional results. The quality of photographic equipment and editing software has increased and become more user-friendly and prices have come down. Not only this, but some people are learning that there may be a demand for their images in the market- place. However, with so many choices how does one decide on what to buy or actually need.

Wacom Bamboo Fun Photographers will love Wacom’s Bamboo Fun. Not only is it very sleak and easy to store, it will let you get hands-on with your creative projects. Combin- ing the benefits of Multi-Touch with the comfort and precision of Wacom's ergonomically-designed pen, you can navigate, scroll and work with simple hand gestures. With the tablet's large touch area, you have more room to navigate than you do with other touch devices. The pressure-sensitive pen to draw, sketch, edit photos, is a great feature and add hand- written elements to your creations. The Bam- boo Fun works with your existing desktop and/ or laptop (PC or Mac) computer using a standard USB port. Photographers will really enjoy this product because it allows for advanced and precise editing tasks in the field. WEBSITE: www.Wacom.com

Victorinox Architecture 2.0 Big Ben Laptop Backpack Protective equipment for expensive camera gear is a must and equally important is computer gear. Photographers will love the intuitive organization, unsurpassed protection and convenient mobility of this Big Ben Laptop Backpack. Not only does it look professional when traveling but one can rest assured the computer is protected and easily accessible. Some of the many benefits include the dual main compart- ments that feature a built-in Aero Sleeve padded computer pod with breathable window, two interior peripheral pockets, a legal-sized fan file system and a large u-shaped zippered mesh pocket. The bottom organizational panel features pen slots, business card holders, PDA or other electronic device storage, a key fob, a zippered mesh pocket and a stash pocket. Top organizational panel features two electronics pockets and music port. Other highlights include patented, zip-away water bottle pocket, comfort grip, contoured leath- er haul handle, padded and moisture-wicking back panel and shoulder straps. WEBSITE: www.victorinoxstores.com 44 Canadian Destinations IrelandIreland PlaygroundPlayground AA whole whole lot lot of of Craic Craic in in Southern Southern Ireland Ireland

Story by Chris Ellison

Ireland is a wonderland that relativelyIreland isfew a wonderlandpeople have that visited. relatively few people Buthave everyone visited. should, But everyone maybe should,twice! maybe twice! Issue 1 - 2007 45 Canadian Destinations 45 reland is a wonderland that relatively few people have visited but everyone should experience at least once in a lifetime, I maybe twice. There are so many unique and out-of-the-ordi- nary aspects of the Irish culture that must be experienced not only read about. Some Canadians may liken certain elements of the island to parts of Nova Scotia, Prince Edward Island or Newfoundland. On a recent journey to Southern Ireland Nath- alie and I discovered some adventures and I now want to share them with you.

DUBLIN The trip started in Toronto, Ontario and a six and a half hour plane ride. We landed in Dublin, and although our main focus was the smaller unique south-eastern towns and cities, we could not pass up spending some time in this great city. Dublin, the capital of Ireland and over 1,000 years old, is a charming desti- nation with its history dating back to Viking times. Whether you come for business, the rich cultural heritage, the shopping, the restaurants or the famous Dublin nightlife, you are guaranteed to have a memorable stay in one of Europe’s most popular des- tinations.

Dublin has a mild climate which makes a visit at any time of the year a pleasure. Between May and September, long eve- nings and pleasant temperatures invite you to visit one of Dub- lin’s many annual festivals and events. From the biggest St Patrick’s Day Parade to the cutting edge Dublin Film Festival and the popular Dublin City Marathon you will likely discover an experience that fits in with your interests. At the center of Dublin, the splits the City in two. On the Southside there is the famous Temple Bar, Grafton Street, Guinness Store House, Christchurch & Trinity College. On the North side there is Henry & Mary Street shopping district, IFSC, The Four Courts, O’Connell Street & .

Dublin offers its visitors a wealth of visitor attractions to explore. These include churches, historic buildings, libraries, museums, galleries, parks and gardens. Throughout history, theatre and art has played an important role in Dublin’s cultural develop- ment. A great way to see Dublin is by joining one of their sug- gested tours of Dublin. Dublin’s The Molly Malone top places to visit include Trinity statue on Grafton College and The Book of Kells, Temple bar, Dublin Castle, Na- Street was unveiled tional Gallery of Ireland, St. Ste- by then Lord Mayor phen’s Green and Christ Church of Dublin, Alderman Cathedral. We were not able to Ben Briscoe during experience all Dublin had to of- the 1988 Dublin Mil- fer, but we knew we would have lennium celebrations, the chance to do so at the end declaring June 13 as of our stay. Molly Malone Day 46 Canadian Destinations Canadian Destinations 46 Issue 1 - 2007 47 Canadian Destinations 47 48 Canadian Destinations Canadian Destinations 48 KILKENNY During our time in Kilkenny we stayed at the beautiful Hiber- Our first stop after leaving Dublin was Kilkenny www.kilkenny( - nian Hotel located right in the city centre of the medieval city. tourist.com), located in the southeast of Ireland. A large number This award winning 4-star hotel offers luxury accommodation, of Norman castles and abbeys make Kilkenny one of Ireland’s conference facilities, the popular Hibernian Bar, the City Bar & most historic counties. Modern Kilkenny boasts a vibrant night- Grill Restaurant and the underground Morrison’s Late Bar where life, particularly in Kilkenny City, and a rich array of arts and on the weekends you can dance the night away. Because of the crafts. A great place to see local artisan crafts and designs is central location you are never more than a few minutes’ walk the Kilkenny Design Center where there is a multitude of beauti- away from the most impressive attractions, sites, fantastic res- ful and unique gifts to browse and buy. The visitor attractions taurants, bars and exclusive boutiques Kilkenny has to offer. include Kilkenny Castle, Jerpoint Abbey, Dunmore Cave, Saint Canice’s Cathedral, and Duiske Abbey. Nearby places to stay in- The Hibernian Hotel’s Victorian building was erected in the mid- clude Kilkenny City, Knocktopher, Freshford, Thomastown, and 19th century when it served as a home to the Hackett family. Graiguenamanagh. Members of this family included Dr. Hackett, a friend and sup- porter of Charles Stuart Parnell during the 1880’s Land Wars, We found that the best way to experience Kilkenny was with a acclaimed biographer, Francis Hackett (1883-1962) and his sister guided walking tour of the city with Caroline Irwine from the the novelist Frances Hackett (1884-1963). In 1901 the property Kilkenny Tourist Office. During this very informative tour we was leased to the Hibernian Bank who rebuilt and extended the learned that Kilkenny city is Ireland’s most historic and compact structure over the next several years. The present owner pur- medieval city. Kilkenny’s centre is based on the west bank of chased the property in 1998 and, following an extensive reno- the River Nore around Parliament Street, High Street and the vation of the building the Hibernian Hotel opened its doors in Parade, with Rothe House at one end and Kilkenny Castle on May 2000. Read more at www.kilkennyhibernianhotel.com. the hill at the other. In recent years Kilkenny City has become a hub for arts, crafts and design. With its great nightlife and res- Not far from Kilkenny we joined a tour and explored the incred- taurant scene Kilkenny makes an excellent base for exploring ibly ancient and historic Dunmore Cave. History and geology Ireland’s sunny southeast. blend at Dunmore Cave to give an interesting and unique situ- ation. Consisting of a series of chambers formed over millions The walking tour was well worth the time and was quite enjoy- of years, the cave contains some of the finest calcite formations able and not too long a walk. It had just the right amount of found in any Irish cave. The cave has been known to man for history to allow us to appreciate the rich history and impor- many centuries and is first mentioned in the 9th century Irish tance of the city. Rothe house is one of three unique Tudor Triads. The most interesting reference however, comes from homes in Ireland and the width of each home on the street the Annals which tells of a Viking massacre at the cave in the represented how wealthy one family was. Another interesting year 928 A.D. Archaeological finds within the cave confirm -Vi fact about Kilkenny is that it has been the home of Smithwick’s king activity and evidence of locals hiding for their lives from (pronounced ‘Smithicks’) beer, also known as Kilkenny beer in Viking invasions. The tour guide there is lively animated and other parts of the world, since 1710. provided us with a great appreciation for the people who used the caves.

Dunmore Caves (top left), historic gravesite dating back to 1600’s (bottom left), Kilkenny’s streets with colourful buildings designed in accordance to the medieval theme adds to the innate character of this city (bottom right). Issue 1 - 2007 49 Canadian Destinations 49 50 Canadian Destinations Canadian Destinations 50 In recent years Kilkenny City has become a hub for arts, crafts and design. With its great nightlife and restaurant scene Kilkenny makes an excellent base for exploring Ireland’s sunny southeast. Issue 1 - 2007 51 Ca- NEW ROSS The next morning we departed for New Ross where we visited We explored the ship which was fitted out exactly as it would be the Dunbrody Famine Ship (www.dunbrody.com). This mag- for a voyage. We were entertained by encounter actors, play- nificent full-scale replica of a ship built in 1845, for the Graves ing the role of emigrants, in their cramped quarters with their family of New Ross, carried thousands of emigrants from Ire- meagre possessions. Many did not make the voyage and the land to North America. The tour offered a unique insight into a conditions on board were not for the faint of heart. period of history which shaped modern day Ireland and Ameri- ca. We learned of the historic background to the Great Famine, Another fascinating tourist destination in the city of New Ross and the reason why so many people were forced to emigrate on was the Ros Tapestry (www.rostapestry.com), a massive sailing ships like Dunbrody to America in the mid-19th century. community initiative in progress in the County of Wexford. Con-

Kilkenney’s beautiful Hibernian Hotel (bottom left) is located right in the city centre of the medieval city. You are never more than a few minutes walk away from the most impressive attractions, sites, fantastic restaurants, bars and exclusive boutiques Kilkenny has to offer (top), 52 Canadian Destinations Canadian Destinations 52 ceived in 1998 and being developed by over a hundred dedi- cated volunteers, ten remarkable 6 x 4 foot embroidered panels stand proudly to be viewed by enthusiastic visitors. The other five tapestries are to be completed in the next couple of years to complete the set of fifteen. The Ros Tapestries depict events around the Anglo-Norman arrival to the South East of Ireland, specifically the founding of the town of New Ross, Co. Wexford by William Marshall and Isabel de Clare. The content for these tapestry panels was exhaustively researched and designed by Anne Bernstorff.

Initiated in 1998, the tapestries will have taken ten years to complete before being installed in a suitable setting where they will remain on permanent public display. The appeal of embroidery has always been its compelling attention to detail. The embroiderers sit at a long frame and stitch the details of landscape - distant hills, rippling water and rough foregrounds using French and bullion knots, satin and chain stitch. Folds of dress fabric are done in couching skilfully adapted to af- fect the complicated pleats. Faces are done in smooth long and short stitch. There is a tour offered with audio headset which we found to A view of St. be informative and interesting. Walk- Marys Abbey ing through the exhibit transported me from St Mary’s back to the founding days of New Ross Lane in Kilkenny. and I was lost in the stitches on each Stained Glass piece as they told the story of that par- (below) Black ticular moment. It is our hope to return Abbey Stained to the Ros Tapestry to see the finished display in all its splendor. Glass (below)

Issue 1 - 2007 53 Canadian Destinations 53 WEXFORD We spent the overnight accommodation in Wexford at Whites of Wexford, one of the leading 4-star Wexford hotels offering luxury accommodation. To the Irish people, White’s is a legend inextricably woven into the social, cultural and artistic history of the city. From as early as 1715, local historians believe that a lodging house called The King’s Arms existed close to the hotel’s present site. It is well recorded that White’s was a militiamen’s lodging house in 1779, surviving the bloody insurrection against the English in 1798 when the hotel’s Coffee House was men- tioned in the diary of a survivor. In the early 1800’s it become a Coaching Inn when Charles Bianconi, based in Clonmel, set up his stage-coach network. The hotel was originally opened by John White and has adapted and expanded with time, first called “the New Hotel” or “Mr. White’s Hotel,” and later sim- ply “White’s Hotel.” Throughout the 18th and 19th centuries Wexford town prospered as a port and as the country’s strong The Dunbrody Famine agricultural centre and market. Ship is a magnificent During this period the hotel was full-scale replica of a managed by succeeding gen- ship built in 1845, for erations of White’s and became the Graves family of one of the main commercial New Ross. It carried centres of the town. As trade thousands of flourished, White’s became one emigrants from Ireland of the best known hotels of high to North America. reputation in Leinster. 54 Canadian Destinations Canadian Destinations 54 One of the exciting features at Whites of Wexford not to be missed is the Tranquillity Spa Wexford. You will experience it’s out-of-the-ordinary thermal suite whereby one can enjoy an hour-long session made up of several components including the Hydrotherapy Pool featuring a variety of body jets mineral-rich warm water, the Steam Room featuring a wet heat infused with aromatherapy and herbal extracts to enhance your complexion and hair, the Laconium which is a dry heat Roman sauna with warm tiled seating contouring your body to relax and soothe muscles, the Life Style Showers featuring a light mist of scented tropical rain over the body to awaken your senses and individual thermal couches contoured to the shape of your body. The ex- perience will allow you to release and ease any pain or tension in muscles and joints. Read more about Whites of Wexford at www.whitesofwexford.ie.

The Ros Tapestries depict events around the Anglo-Norman arrival to the South East of Ireland.

Issue 1 - 2007 55 Canadian Destinations 55 The next morning we headed for Waterford. Along the way we even whales. In clear weather you can see for miles and in a decided to take the scenic route and visit Hook Head storm the spray often reaches the top of the lighthouse. Lighthouse (www.hookheritage.ie). There is a wonderful visitor centre at Hook Lighthouse that is known as one of the The purpose of the Hook lighthouse was that it served sailors premier visitor attractions in the south east. It offers guided and shipping for 800 years, apart from a short closure during tours of the lighthouse tower, a 13th Century Norman struc- the 17th century. It is thought to be one of the oldest opera- ture, built by the Earl of Pembroke as part of the development tional lighthouses in the world. When the Tower of Hook be- of his Lordship of Leinster culminating with the spectacular came fully automated in 1996 and no longer needed resident view from the balcony and a first class gift shop and café. keepers, it was decided to celebrate its uniqueness by opening Relax by the sea and keep an eye out for seals, dolphins and it to the public.

56 Canadian Destinations Canadian Destinations 56 Hook Head Lighthouse is one of the oldest operating lighthouses in the world can be found in Wexford. It was listed as one of the top 14 attractions in Ireland by Lonely Planet

Issue 1 - 2007 57 Canadian Destinations 57 WATERFORD We headed onward to Waterford via the picturesque scenic of crystal was created by highly skilled craftsmen using unique routes and took the Passage East Ferry (www.passageferry.ie). and traditional methods. Visit Waterford Crystal factory at When we finally arrived in Waterford we headed to the world www.waterfordvisitorcentre.com. renowned Waterford Crystal Factory which comprises an actual living and breathing crystal factory tour, fascinating visi- tor centre and opulent retail store housing the largest collection of Waterford Crystal in the world. A guided factory tour gives first hand access to all areas of traditional crystal production and creates a true appreciation for the art of crystal making.

The House of Waterford Crystal is conveniently located on the Mall in Waterford City, Ireland and open to the public seven days a week and all year round. The new high-tech facility ex- Waterford Crystal is clusively produces 40,000 luxury hand-crafted crystal pieces known throughout using traditional artisan methods for the most discerning cus- the sporting world tomers in addition to serving as a brand laboratory for innova- for creating trophies tion and modern design. It was a visual journey of over 225 of particular years of glass making and we saw how each individual piece magnificence. 58 Canadian Destinations Canadian Destinations 58 Tramore From Waterford we traveled to Tramore, where we enjoyed the many breath-tak- ing beaches and where we had the op- portunity to go surfing. The surfing rates are very affordable and the surf is excel- lent. Tramore offers an interesting as- sortment of stores and activities geared to the whole family with small fair type rides and cafes. It is a fun town to visit and there are many activities and shops to see.

Issue 1 - 2007 59 Cliff House Hotel sits proudly at the water’s edge in Ardmore. The beach in Ardmore is serene and full of beautiful colourful stones and is a place to revisit in the future.

ARDMORE Our overnight accommodation was arranged at the incrediblely unique Cliff House Hotel, an intimate, cascading hotel sewn into the coast overlooking the historic village of Ardmore, in West Waterford. It is distinguished as much for its design and sea views as for the region’s most exquisite food. The hotel interiors draw an extraordinary landscape inwards. Palettes of marine blue, fuchsia, aubergine and sea green evoke the surrounding Waterford countryside. It is as true to the trusted service standards of yesteryear as the subtle, stylish comforts expected by the 21st century guest. During our stay we enjoyed wandering the many streets and shops, including a wonderful pottery shop near the hotel and found one-of-a-kind treasures to remind us of our time there. Read more about Cliff House at www.thecliffhousehotel.com.

60 Canadian Destinations Canadian Destinations 60 Kinsale Ireland, view from Charles Fort, 2010.

KINSALE The next morning we departed for Kinsale where there are a installations in the country, Charles Fort has been associated number of attractions for visitors. Getting a great overview of with some of the most momentous events in Irish history. The the city is best done by Don Herlihy and Barry Maloney of Kin- most significant of these are the Williamite War 1689-91 and the sale Historic Stroll at the Kinsale Tourist Office and the incred- Civil War 1922-23. Charles Fort was declared a National Monu- ibly historic tour of Charles Fort (http://www.heritageireland.ie/ ment in 1973. Across the estuary is James Fort designed by en/South-West/CharlesFort). Paul Ive in 1602. The Charles Fort star shaped military fortress was constructed between 1677 and 1682, during the reign of Charles Fort is a classic example of a late 17th century star- King Charles II, to protect the town and harbour of Kinsale. Our shaped fort. William Robinson, architect of the Royal Hospital authentic Irish tour guide of that day spoke from a wealth of in , Dublin, and Superintendent of Fortifications, is knowledge and passion of the fort’s history and made the tour credited with designing this fort. As one of the largest military interesting and lively.

The present Charles Fort was built to protect Kinsale from the French and Spanish fleets in the 17th century. Issue 1 - 2007 61 Canadian Destinations 61

We stayed that evening at the Old Presbytery Guesthouse B&B in Kinsale (www.oldpres.com). This jewel, which once served as the home of the priests in the parish, now offers guests luxury accommodation and self catering accommodation at reasonable rates. They offer new and updated comfortable beds in atmospheric rooms decorated in keeping with the era but with every modern convenience.

All rooms have private bathrooms and some have either tradi- tional Victorian claw foot baths or jacuzzi baths, as well as WiFi in some areas. Built in the early 1800’s. The B&B It is located on a quiet street, just one minute’s walk from the heart of Kinsale. A private car park is availble making it easy to walk and explore Kinsale’s quaint narrow streets filled with restaurants, bars and cafes, interesting shops and galleries.

CORK CITY The next morning we headed to City where we met John has a population of approximately 130,000 and is famous as the Collins at the Cork Tourist Office for a walking tour of Cork City. home of Murphy’s and Beamish and Crawford stouts, Barry’s The tour offered an understanding of the origins of Cork and tea and the Examiner newspaper. how it developed throughout its varied, and occasionally pre- carious, history. In its early days as an English outpost, the city During our time in Cork we had the opportunity to stay at the was close to collapse, with the settlers being refused permis- wonderful Crawford House B&B, a wonderful, clean, quiet, sion to return home to England in an attempt to keep it viable. modern place to rest and it was within walking distance of the The City supported the losing side on many occasions, including main city and a bus stop to the airport. It is acclaimed by the Perkin Warbeck’s, Charles II’s and James II’s. AA with 4 diamonds for it’s modern design and luxury details and provided an excellent breakfast in the morning in prepara- Cork has suffered many catastrophes such as fire, flood, famine tion for a day of touring. We found it very convenient to stay at and disease and after the siege of Cork in 1690A.D. the city Crawford House and the owners are very kind and hospitable. walls were abandoned and the city expanded dramatically as See: www.crawforguesthouse.com for more information or the Port of Cork became a major transatlantic port. Today Cork bookings. To learn more about Cork city at www.walkcork.ie.

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DUBLIN From Cork, we returned to Dublin via the Irish Rail. Upon arriv- ing at Dublin’s we decided to visited and dine at The Clarence, owned by the band U2’s Bono and the Edge. The Clarence is very much a reflection of 21st century Ireland. The Clarence is located in the heart of Dublin City over looking the River Liffey and in the cultural quarter of Temple Bar. It was created from a personal vision of the hotel’s owners and operated as a place that they would choose to stay in when visiting Dublin.

Located on the ground floor of The Clarence, with its own en- trance on Essex Street, is The Tea Room, one of Dublin’s most praised restaurants. Situated in the original ballroom of the ho- and hotel guests alike with sumptuous cuisine served through- tel, it occupies a light spacious room with a soaring coved 20ft out the day and evening. Read more about The Clarence at ceiling. It offers a friendly and flexible service to local residents www.theclarence.ie.

We enjoyed our last overnight the energized night life complete in Dublin at The Burlington with traditional Irish music. Hotel (www.burlingtonhotel.ie) which could be best described The next morning we awoke and as having a deep-rooted tradi- headed out to the airport so that tion with a cosmopolitan twist. we could fly back to Canada. Ire- The historic hotel continues to land is truly a unique and allur- shine as the largest conference ing world destination. Although and leisure hotel in Dublin. The there are some features that one Burlington Hotel is just a short might think are similar to Cana- stroll from Dublin’s City Centre, da’s Newfoundland, Nova Scotia the RDS and Aviva Stadium / and PEI, Ireland has so many Lansdowne Road, the Grand qualities that are unique that it Canal Theatre, the 02 Arena and Croke Park venues all of which cannot be missed. The people, the history, and the destinations are within quick access by car, bus or taxi. Prior to retiring for are one of a kind and I cannot wait to get back to explore the the night we walked down to the Tempel Bar areas to enjoy rest of the Island.

If you are considering an adventure to Ireland, and there are so many from which to choose, I would start at the Tourism Ireland website at www.tourismireland.com. Issue 1 - 2007 63 Canadian Destinations 63

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