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If One Had but a Single Glance to Give the World, One Should Gaze On

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If One Had but a Single Glance to Give the World, One Should Gaze On If one had but a single glance to give the world, one should gaze on o wrote 19th-century French author Alphonse de Lamartine, in his brilliant and bold account, Voyage En Orient. His 1832 journey to Constantinople (as the city S was then known) was to inspire him for life; 200 years later and it remains easy to see why. Almost overwhelmingly beautiful, this is a city unlike any other. Straddling both Europe IstanbulWords: Ellie Fazan and Asia, it revels in fabulous contrasts: east and west, rich and poor, ancient and modern, all live cheek by jowl here. Buildings and public spaces are not only soaringly elegant, exemplified in the domes and minarets of the 17th-century Blue Mosque and the graceful pavilions of Topkapı Palace, but also dark and labyrinthine, as you’ll discover when you explore the maze-like winding lanes of the Bazaar Quarter. In just a few hours, you feel as if you have crossed centuries in time – passing from 21st- century apartment blocks and designer boutiques to Ottoman merchant quarters and traditional artisan craft shops. Disembarking at Karaköy Yolcu Salonu is a glorious assault on the senses. Don’t be afraid to dive right into Istanbul’s never- ending flow of people and absorb the exotic, frenetic street life, with its bustle, evocative call to prayer, folk music blaring out of car radios, and heady aromas of spices, tobacco smoke and street food. It’s unlikely you’ll get to see the whole of the city in a day – as home to 14 million people, it’s vast. However, whether you prefer to spend your time absorbed by world-class cultural sights, mooching in markets and munching on inexpensive street food, or prefer a day admiring seriously expensive paintings, handbags and shoes fashioned by the country’s burgeoning number of cutting-edge artists and designers, it’s easy to craft your dream itinerary with a bit of careful planning. 14 Destination inspiration: TURKISH DELIGHT Istiklâl Caddesi TOUR TWO The European quarter A La Turca Cihangir Çukurcuma Best for: You want to experience Denizler Kitabevi Datli Maya Istanbul’s humming street life and ‘At Topkapı explore the perhaps pick up a souvenir or two. What: The fine 19th-century buildings Galata Tower around Beyoglu house many unique harem, fabulous Turkish shopping and dining outlets. Karaköy Yolcu Salona How to get there: Easy! It’s practically bath, and the Treasury, on your doorstep as you get off the ship. The tour: Get your bearings by scaling jammed with priceless medieval 1 Galata Tower – at 51m the observation deck has panoramic views of Istanbul. Once you’ve marvelled at jewels and works of art’ the scope of the city, make your way down 2 Istiklâl Caddesi, the bustling Topkapı Palace main street. It is lined with elegant Grand Bazaar Belle Époque buildings and pedestrians who vie for space with an antique tram. Köftecisi Ayasofya Çigdem Pastanesi Big brands are nudging their way into Ayasofya Hürrem the mix, but the southern end of the Sultan Ahmet Mosque Sultan Hamamı street retains its traditional atmosphere. Detour down side streets radiating from this thoroughfare for a delightful mix of TOUR ONE and it boasts a glittering collection of SULTANS OF shops and cafés. The slopes and steps Historic Istanbul mosaics. Continuing further down to BLING (opposite) south-east of Istiklâl Caddesi give way Topkapı Palace is Sarayburnu (Seraglio Point), where the one of the focal to bohemian quarter 3 Cihangir, full Best for: Culture vultures – you’ve never Golden Horn flows into the Bosphorus, points of historic of charming, winding streets, which been to Istanbul before and want to brings you to 3 Topkapı Palace. A series Istanbul hold pretty painted old houses, and a take in as many sights as possible. of ornate pavilions situated in delightful hotchpotch of characterful boutiques What: Most of the sights are located in gardens dating back to the 15th century, and tea rooms. These days Istanbul is Sultanahmet. Bounded by the water on this palace was home to Ottoman a mecca for world-class shopping – look three sides and old city walls to the sultans and their families for more than out for exotic cushions and embroidered west, this is the oldest part of the city. 400 years. These days you can explore linens by local designers. Within this How to get there: The ship docks a the harem, enclosed around a fabulous district, 4 Çukurcuma is known for its 10-minute walk from Galata Bridge. Turkish bath, and the Treasury, jammed many tiny antique shops, with Turkish From here, it’s four stops on the tram. with priceless jewels and works of art. chandeliers, coffee tables and richly The tour: The focal point of this part of You’re not going to make it through upholstered furniture all jumbled town is 1 Sultan Ahmet Mosque. the day without some culinary relief, so together. Especially worth visiting is Also known as the Blue Mosque, after make your way to 4 Sultanahmet 5 A La Turca – designed to replicate the azure Iznik tiles that decorate the Köftecisi on Divan Yolu Caddesi for a an Ottoman home, it is in fact a carefully inside, it was built between 1609-16 and quick and tasty lunch. An institution curated shop overflowing with goodies. constructed by the same stonemasons since 1920, you’ll find it full of locals – Or 6 Denizler Kitabevi for the kind who built the Taj Mahal. When the sun always a good sign. Try the city’s famous of books, posters and maps that glints off the soaring domes and elegant lamb meatballs, served with bread and antiquarian booksellers on Charing Cross silhouette its majesty rivals the Indian salad. Finish your meal with a strong Road would die for. For a spot of lunch landmark. Just a short walk away is 2 coffee and baklava at 5 Çigdem try 7 Datli Maya on Türkgücü Caddesi MAGES Ayasofya, perhaps one of the world’s Pastanesi on the same road. If you have – it serves Turkish breads alongside I Y Y Share your own tt most influential buildings. Built in the time, wind up your visit to Sultanahmet the city’s finest güveç (a rich stew E G 6th century when Istanbul was under with a trip to the 6 Grand Bazaar. mini review of cooked in a clay pot). For complete a destination Christian Byzantine rule, it began life This covered labyrinth of streets, packed by emailing us refreshment after a hectic morning, as a church, before being turned into a with stalls, hawkers and cafés selling at ourworld@ hop in a cab – it just takes 10 minutes HY: ALAMY, ALAMY, HY: P mosque, and then a museum. You only everything from carpets and jewellery pocruises.com. – and indulge at 8 Ayasofya Hürrem We may even OGRA T have to walk inside to feel the power of to exotic spices and leather, is probably publish it in the Sultan Hamamı in Sultanahmet Square, HO p the building – the dome is 56m high the greatest market on earth. next issue! the city’s most opulent bath house. Visit pocruises.com or find more inspiration at http://ourworld.pocruises.com 17 Destination inspiration: TURKISH DELIGHT Besiktas Kabatas Get ready to go Üsküdar Straddling Europe and Asia, Istanbul is a mind-boggling mix of East and West. Here’s Karakoy Yolcu Salona all you need to know for a short trip to one of the world’s most colourful capitals of culture Atik Valide Eminönü Seraglio Point Magnificent Istanbul Reader’s letter Jacqueline Clark visited Istanbul in 2013, and enjoyed it so much that she is already making plans to return. Here, she describes a trip that combined a wonderfully exhilarating mix of sights, sounds and smells. ‘Istanbul is a lovely city – an attractive place to Florence explore and the locals are very friendly. Topkapı Nightingale Museum Palace is absolutely magnificent and we were astounded by the detail in the grand architecture of Haidar Pasha Cemetery the Imperial Harem and the Bosphorus Bridge. There Kadıköy are certainly plenty of things to see, so it was nice to Bostancı be able to relax with a refreshing drink of serbet. The Çiya Sofrasi & Sögütlü Çesme Caddesi Grand Bazaar was big and bustling and we made quite a few purchases at the Spice Market. I would recommend a meal at one of the rooftop restaurants TOUR thRee many fishermen that line the walkway as it will give you the chance to see parts of the city The Asian shores reeling in their dinner. This side of the illuminated by lights and sometimes fireworks.’ water is a bit of a foodie haven. Move Best for: Escaping Istanbul’s frenetic further down into an area called tourist activity – spending a relaxed day 4 Kadıköy and head to Güneslibahçe Fact File SHORE eating, drinking and people-watching. Sokak, where traders famously sell fish, EXCURSIONS Cruise capsule What: The Asian shores of Üsküdar are dried fruits, speciality teas and baklava, The itinerary Women should cover up perfect for a day strolling by the water. and there’s an abundance of local Almeria, Gythion, Athens, Best of Istanbul here – but that doesn’t In neighbouring Kadikoy find cobbled cafés and seafood restaurants. For Ephesus, Mytilene, Lesbos, A magnificent tour mean you can’t look glam streets, restaurants, bars and markets. hearty local grub try 5 Çiya Sofrasi, a Istanbul, Samos, Mykonos, Visit the Hippodrome, admire How to get there: Catch a ferry from traditional lokanta with an international Rhodes, Santorini, Aghios Topkapı Palace, gaze at the tiles Besiktas, Eminönü or Kabatas to Üsküdar, reputation.
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