Cooking in Old Créole Days La Cuisine Créole À Lusage Des Petits

CO PY R I G H T 1 90 3

B Y CE LEST I N E E UST I S

c 4. p co t C‘ C

P F C O I L I H R St

c C ! c c c c C C c ! ! c t e 0 c cC c C C o C C e C o C ‘ cc c C ‘ c c c c c c t t, T H E ST RE NGT H OF T H E N A T I O N T H E O H ANDS O F T H E CO K. F D A MAN W LL H E E E , E L L WORK W LL H E , E W L L G H T W E L L

D ED I CA CE

Si ce petit oub rage pe u t etre u tile a m es ch ers

‘ ’ n ev e ux e t ch eres n ile ces a u ra is l a sa t s a ct o , j i f i n de

’ ’ sa o r u e m on te m s n a as ete e rdu e n récl a v i q p p p ,

’ ’ m a nt to u te l in du lgen ce da pu b l ic pou r av oir a b u se de sa pa tien ce .

I N T R O D U CT I O N

A o f Sou th to friend mine , in the , once said me, that the surrender at Appomatox had brought about two serious — calamities an end to duelling and the disappearance of the colored cook . We may at least agree with him that the latter

wh o result is a matter deeply to be deplored by all , like

e o f myself , r member the marvellous skill the Southern

- cooks . I used to be of opinion that the frying pan should be our national emblem , so complete was its culinary des

otism p in New England and the West ; indeed , when once I was at Marquette and Duluth , buying a camp outﬁt , there was not a gridiron for sale in either town . But in the hands of a colored cook even the frying-pan ceased to be an instrument for producing dyspepsia ; and what other black art there was in the kitchens where the dark mammys

? -o f- reigned , who now can say It was a rule thumb busi

- ness which was never written , save in some old time receipt

one to book, and was literally handed down from generation another .

- The well mannered colored folk , with aristocratic tastes , f still existed in my native city when I was young . One o

to them , who was formerly my nurse, was always sent for cook the terrapin when there was a dinner party . She turned the other servants out of the kitchen , and performed ! her kindly incantations alone North of us, no one has ever been able to cook terrapin , which accounts for many

things . As a race, we are certainly not gifted with culi I ntrodu ction

nor a nary talent , h ve I ever heard of an attempt to patent a receipt or a new salad . It was therefore a great pleasure to see the little book in which my friend has preserved

some of the famous receipts of the Creole kitchen . When , too, I saw , and indeed heard , the gay songs which were con sidered n eedful to be sung in the making of a Gumbo or of a

u mb all a a J y , I felt that this was an addition to the business of the cook which must have lifted it to the level of the Arts we call Fine ; for surely the mingling of music with a sauce or a salad dressing is a reﬁnement of which no cordon b l en has ever dreamed ! I have heard of but on e other use of song in the preparation of food . A certain bishop , staying in a modest farmhouse , was struck with the fact that , just before breakfast , he heard the cook sing

- ing a well known hymn . On expressing his satisfaction at this act of early devotion, he was told she had discovered that exactly th e time needed to sing two verses was that which was required to bo il an egg. I am sure there are many who will be charmed by the pretty little songs in the

Creole patois of the far Southern kitchen , and will in a th double sense appreciate e taste of the receipts , and the

- effort to preserve the folk lore of the Southern cook . As

I recall her , in Virginia , she was usually a fat woman of middle age , with a gay bandana kerchief about her head proud of her art , somewhat despotic , and usually known as Aunty . A creatu re n ot too bright o r good ’ " For h uman n atu re s daily food .

MIT CH ELL S . WEIR 6 LA CUI S IN E CR E OL E A L’USAG E D ES P E T I T S ME N AG E S

' De tous l es cotes mes amis me demanden t des recettes

n de la cuisine créole . On se souvie t encore des délicieuses ff ! e ” dindes tru ées de la Rivi re Rouge a moitié sauvages ,

aux acan n es et engraissées p mangées , rue de la Victoire, — chez ma sainte et b o nn e mere Um Anglais demande la ’ ’ i d é n ards . I em . Um recette d un plat p , qui lui a valu son ur

’ céléb re ot a francais se souvient d un délicieux r i de ve u , qui

’

t . 2 Un t est devenu presqu his orique . Russe, quoique habi ant

’

r n e t . . Pa is , peut oublier des perdrix étouffées aux toma es 3 Une élégante de New York a des souvenirs inoubliables

’ e o des d un riz a la Valenciennes , gout a Biarritz sur la c te

’

s v in s ta d ES a n e ! . Ba ques , en des belle Mon gnes p g 4 Une

’ ’ ’ d envie autre élégante , m a avoué qu elle se mourait de

du m r e u s l e . manger riz sec , co me les c éol s se les avent cuire

’ C eut été fach eu x de la laisser mourir de faim dans son

— n éléb r b eau Palais . U musicien c e soupire apres des oeufs

l e un e a la Portugaise, capable lui faire manquer inspiration

ﬁl l e a des oe musi cale . Une j eune réclame a gr nds cris ufs

u n e n e o n e a la morelle , autre peut se cons ler de plus manger

u h h ou s da co c cou c e ou cou sc se.

! ’ ’ ’ B rill at Savarin dit ! Qu il n y a que les gens d esprit

” ! ’

rotisseu r. l i qui savent manger , qu on nait A ors a mo ns

’ e i i des x me u r d tre spir tuel ou nspiré Dieu , on saurait go te cc u i i m o n modeste petit ouvrage , q resterait une én g e p ur bie

’ m a n et rotir des lecteurs ; ais l art de s voir ma ger de , ainsi La C u isin e C reole

’ que de faire la cuisine peut s acqu érir avec u n peu de pa

’ tience d ob servation et . , beaucoup passablement de soin ’ — Je me me propose pas d écrire u n ouvrage culinaire que ’ — Dieu m en préserve l mais de griffonner seulement a la hate et au hasard la recette de quelques bons plats créoles et

’ ’ d a ren dre bourgeois , que j ai en la bonne chance pp a faire en furetant dans de vieilles recettes et en causant avec les

’ e d au trefoi vieilles comm res s .

’ ’ Souvent ou demande cc que c est qu u n gombo créole ? ’ c est u n mets indien dont ils se régalaient généralement u m

et jour de noce dont nous jouissions , avant la guerre, dans I l les réunions intimes apres une danse . peut se faire avec du du gibier, de la volaille, de la dinde, veau , des rogatons, a la rigueur meme u n hibou .

I I ce découle de mets national parmi les créoles , qui ! ” cc leur est si familier que, terme gombo est devenu une

e - au ﬁ u ré va expression générique tr s importante g , par la

’ rieté meme de sa composition et par consequent son im ! ! u n pénétrabilité une fois fait , exemple en littérature gom ee” f e — bom l est une grosse a faire tr s compliquée, relevant souvent de différends dans les familles nombreuses ou parmi

’ - un et . grand cercle d amis , rendue tres confuse

Ne soyez pas étonnés de ces quelques notes de musique, ’ e c est l e piment de la sauce . Quand les n gres travaillent

et ﬁ ers et bien, ils sont contents de leur ouvrage expriment

’ ’ l élo u en ce leur contentement en chantant, c est q de leurs sen

timents.

r l e il Les ﬁnes he bes sont parfum de la cuisine, mais — faut en user avec la meme discrétion que les parfums il s 8 ’ A l Usage des P etits Menages

! sont oignons , persil , cerfeuil , civette, estragon , feuilles de — laurier aﬁ n de laisser a chaque mets son gout particulier

— Le ! ou son individualité . secret de la bonne cuisine est la

méill eu rs u n plus exquise propreté, avoir les ingrédients,

’ o e - beurre frais, la meilleure huile d olive, les eufs tr s frais et beaucoup de temps pour tout préparer avec soin ; u n b on

’ — l e feu egal, des braises , pas de ﬂammes triomphe des gar gotiers ! La bouillotte est aussi une ennemie fatale de la

’ ﬁ r Un bonne cuisine ; il faut s en mé e . général russe disait

’ ’ -cc que l eau était si désagréable dans les bottes , qu est que

’ ’ ’ ca devait etre dans l estomac ! Je n ai qu a regarder l e feu ’ d une cu isin i ere pour savoir quelle espece de cordon bleu elle

’ ’ ’ u est . J ai entendu a n homme d esprit dire ! que si l on ’ u m -e pendait gargotier une fois par mois, peut tre qu an bout

’ dc l an n ée on parviendrait a avoir de bons cuisiniers . La

’ cuisine est une grave affaire ; la santé de l h uman ité en

’ l e l intérieu r et dépend ; bonheur de y est intéressé, la justice ’ m l r pourrait s en é e . I l ’ La base de la cuisine créole est l e roux . faut s ap pl iqu er particul iéremen t a bien l e faire ; autrement vos plats

res 1a seraient fadasses ettrop gras . En voici a peu p recette ; ' '~ ’ nTais 1a l x érien u pratique seule en donnera e p ce. Le go t en

’ ’ ’ est l e guide pour l assaisonn ement c est la qu est l e talent de

’ l artiste l e é , comme sentiment de la po sie, de la musique, de

e l e é . la peinture, autr ment dit, g nie

C O N T E N T S

COOKI N G I N OLD CR EOLE DAY S

A rt and S c ence o f Sa a arrots i l d C , Ma n c en B roth ki g, Chi k , As ara s in th e O en c en assero e p gu v , Chi k C l , As ara s S o c en ro ettes p gu up, Chi k C qu , A o H am c en Pan a e T dd , Chi k d , ’ A nt Ann e s o r n - r e a c en Pie u C B d, Chi k , th o t o er n ese R ce wi u p wd , Chi i , ’ A nt An ne s e c o s orn oco ate I c n u d li i u C Ch l i g, rea o er for e t Persons B d, Ch wd igh , ’ A nt Anne s oecake aret P n c u H , Cl u h, ’ a tmore st e o f mak n Codfi sh a l a l Es a n ol e B l i yl i g p g , erra n Ste th o t T er Co dfi sh a s T pi w wi u B ll , ra n 8 Codfi sh a es pi , 3 C k , Bar e So th e er 18 o T ea l y up wi C l y, C ld , eef T ea 2 ommon ake B , 5 C C , sc ts ma e o er n h t 6 o rn - rea Bi ui d v ig , 7 C B d, ac ean S o 22 orn a e Bl k B up , C C k , lan ette o f Vea o rn Mea rea B qu l , 49 C l B d, onn e Femme So 20 o rn O sters B up, C y , Bo on a l a ames Ma son 16 orn Po ne uill J di , C , rea orn n B d, 95 C Puddi g, r s et o f ee f 2 o ch e o ch e B i k B , 3 C u C u , c n er nc l oo Co u rtb ouill on o f F sh Bu k Pu h, i , af arfa t 101 rab mbo C é P i , C Gu , ’ a f s ea So 22 Crawfish s e C l H d up, Bi qu , ’ a f s L ver a l a é e s te ream 5 l a e est ne C l i C l C C l i , ’ Sm t reme d Or e i h, C g , an e O ran e c m er ats C di d g , Cu u b C up, an as ac ck star B rea C v b k Du , 44 Cu d d, arame P n a be acé C l uddi g, D u Gl , C o n ten ts

e cate a e H ow to ma e r Coff ee D li C k , k D ip , el c o s rea fast s H ow to ma e T ea D i i u B k Di h, k , el c o s s a s H o w to roa st uc s D i i u Fi h B ll , D k , e c o s Ste H ow to serve c en D li i u w , Chi k , ev e ra s I n an S on e a e D ill d C b , di p g C k , ev l e ra s— New O r eans eru sa em Art c o es D il d C b l J l i h k , St le 1 umb al l a a y , 4 J y , ro ffs 80 umb al l a a a l a r o e D p Pu , J y C é l , tc S a uce u mb al l a a A S an s reo e Du h , 49 J y ! p i h C l ! ” e ll oo e A es s Edg Hi C k d ppl , 74 di h) , E no 100 n e Ste gg gg, Kid y w, ant 8 Le o f M utton Egg Pl , 5 g , ’ s 5 l a M ore e 6 6 Leon e Pen in s D r ake Egg ll , 3 , 7 i y C , ’ s o rt u ese st e 6 Leon e s a e Egg , P ug yl , 3 i C k , let Mar n e 2 Loa f rea Fi i , 3 B d, at oo es 8 Loa f o f n er rea Fl C ki , 3 Gi g b d, oat n I s an Lo ster S a ce Fl i g l d , 73 b u , oo s t at Stea a o rs 96 L cc ett r e F d h l Fl v , u h i , F i d, Fo r ro n c en Macaron Pie B ili g Chi k , 45 i , r e arrots - , 58 Manc este r I ce ream F i d C h C , r t in I ts Own ce 78 Mer n e n F ui Jui , i gu Puddi g, n er rea - , 79, 83 M nce M eat Gi g b d i , n er a e, 80 Mo asses a e Gi g C k l C k , o e A rt c o es 8 , 5 Mo asses n er rea Gl b i h k l Gi g b d, Gofio 6 ! 3 ” , 9 Mon ca 3 w a to coo sh i y k Fi , ra am h ea tl s 1 W et , 7 M on e u n G h k y P ddi g, m o let I ’ , 3 , 95 rs ell s e c o s M tton Gu b Fi M . K y d li i u u H am fr e t S ar Ste i d wi h ug , 3 3 w, ar star M u ffi n s H d Cu d, 73 , er m o 1 N ew n an o er H b Gu b , 5 E gl d Ch wd , n ts for o se ee e rs N ew O r ea n s O ster So u Hi H u k p , 93 l y p, om n rea an d aff es 6 Ne O r ean s Vea a s H i y B d W l , 9 w l l B ll , o n o n 2 2 New O r ean s V e a t H ppi g J h , 7, 9 l l w i h h rooms in O sters H ow to cook Mu s y , O r eans wa to coo a Chafin g Di sh hal f an hou r New l y k n e b efore s erv n S , i g, ip N ce co s for L nc to H ow to estro es i ld Di h u h, d y Fli , e eaten t S a a H ow to m a e a arame b , k C l , wi h l d O ra m o H ow to m ake a goo d S oup k Gu b , O ra sc s with wh at remains from k Hibi u , O ra So B reakfast, 99 k up, C o n te n ts

O ster and ean ut So S o u th ern omato S o I y P up , T up, 9 O ste r S o S ce eef y up , pi d B , an ca es S n ac P k , pi h , a rtr e l a nc e o n S as P idg a U l J h , qu h , 59 l a n o e R ce Ste e on e for L nc 2 P i B il d i , w d T gu u h, 5 P a n R ce u n Stra err S o rtca e l i i P ddi g, wb y h k , m n Str n ean s Plu Puddi g, i g B , Po -O vers St f n for o s p , u fi g F wl , 43 o rc n e n Stuffi n s for r e s and P upi Puddi g, g Tu k y otato a s uc s P B ll , D k , Pot a u Feu 1 S e s ream , 7 w di h C , otomac err n s th R oe 0 S eet otato u n s P H i g wi , 4 w P B , otte Vea S eet otatoes P d l , 3 7 w P , ra l n e ocoan t 8 S eet otato n P i C u , 7 w P Puddi g, ra ne ecan s 8 S eet afers P li P , 7 w W , Raw eef S ou 2 erra n B p, 5 T pi , Riz a l a Val encienne 28 erra n Ste , T pi w, R oast eef 1 T h e wa to te oo M u s B , 3 y ll g d h R o s room s from o son o s on es ll , p i u , S al L nn c ater scu ts ly u , Thi k W Bi i , S a ce 51 l a Ne b r for n ater scu ts u , w u g, Thi W Bi i , Lo ste r 1 T o bo a est al a H am b , 4 il W ph i , Sa ce arna se 9 T o b ro a S tea u Bé i , 4 il k, S auce or e a se 0 T o coo a nd s erve omatoes B d l i , 5 k T , Sa u ce for c 0 omato rr Wild Du k, 5 T Cu y, S a ce for Vea l a l s 1 omatoes u B l , 5 T , S m e cl ear om ato S o 19 omato S o i pl , T up , T up , Sm a l S on e a e 8 T o ste Lam an d eas l p g C k , 3 w b P , S o a scu ts r e Stu f n d Bi i , Tu k y fi g, S o ft u star Vea ro ette s C d, l C qu , S o rre S o Veal erra n l up , T pi , So ufll é scu ts affl es Bi i , W , So t o t Meat Y or s e n up wi h u , k hir Puddi g ,

UN Pm D I N E CREOLE AU! D ELEGUES DE NEw ORLEANS PRESS

A SMALL CREOLE D I N N ER TO T H E D ELEGATES OF T H E NEW OR B LEANS PRESS CLU . C o n te n ts

LA CUI SI N E CR EOLE

’ A l Usa e des et ts M na es 101 a r cots Verts g P i é g , H i , an an es ’ , 122 a r cots Verts Ma tre B H i , i d H o cass nes de l a No ve e Or tel Bé i u ll , lea n s 1 16 amba a a , J l y , an ette de Vea 1 1 La Saccamité Bl qu u , 5 , ran a e de Mor e 1 1 Mar an sc ts B d d u , 7 yl d Bi ui , a l as 12 M f n s C , 4 u ﬁ , e rve es de Mo ton Pan dées 122 O se e C ll u , ill , er e es de Vea o u Mo ton a n anc C v ll u u P i Bl , a u e rre N o r a n No r B u i , P i i , orn rea atates o ces au o r C b d, P D u F u , otes de omar Per r aux o C H d, d ix Ch ux, ra es a rc s Pet t Av s a ux Ména éres C b F i , i i g , Creme a l a Gl ace a l a Cél es Pomm es Cuites a l a Thomas t n e efferson i , J , a e de Gazw a Pommes de erre Souﬁl ées D ub y , T , ’ a be acee a l a r ole de ota e Mar n ere D u Gl C é P g i i , Ma ame R ouzan n ée Ol v er 1 10 ou r on de u s n e d , i i P F d C i i , ’ a e G acee de Ma ame o r a re du B on af D ub l d P u F i C é, st s Mere Recette de l a en o se Eu i , , G i , ’ a rce o r Patés o u o r des Riz a l An l aise F p u p u g , n es o u o r des Vo a es 1 1 Riz a l a Va enc ennes Di d p u l ill 5 l i , Pl an a ux er ses 12 R o n on s de Mo ton S a t s C i , 7 g u u é , o e de Vea a l a este 1 1 Sala e a l a D uc de Morn F i u Cél , 4 d y, roma e a l a reme 126 Sa ce arna se F g C , u Bé i , atea de Mou sel in e 12 S a ce an c e G u , 7 u Bl h , ateau Pra ne o u I l e ot S a ce or e a se G li Fl u B d l i , tan te 128 Sa ce ub ert , u H , atea Sec de Leon e Pen n 12 S a ce artare G u i i , 5 u T , om o de rabes 108 S au ce omate G b C , T , om o Févis 10 So e a l a u enne G b , 7 up J li , ’ om o F et 10 S o es a 1O se e G b il , 7 up ill , ombo Zh erb es 108 Un n de Ma s G , Puddi g i , ’ ’ ’ t n aux ommes de erre 1 2 1 Z Atf aire ab r c est as Z Af Gra i P T , C i p a es e Vea 1 1 fa re Mo ton Grill d d u , 4 i u , COOKING IN O LD CREOLE DAY S

GUMBO FILET

Put into a casserole ! saucepan) a spoonful of pure

of . lard and one ﬂour , stir it well until it is of a light brown

Chop an onion into small pieces and throw them in . Cut up a fat capon or chicken into small pieces and put these in the casserole with the ﬂour and lard . Stir it all the while until the chicken is nearly done . When the whole is well browned , add a slice of ham , cut up small . two Throw in or three pods of red pepper, and salt to your taste . Now add a quart of boiling water, and leave it on t the ﬁre for wo hours and a half . A quarter of an hour before dinner is served add three dozen oysters with their

. off liquor Just before taking the soup the ﬁre, put in a

ﬁl et . tablespoonful of , stirring it all the while Let it boil on e too ﬁl et minute and then serve . Do not put in much ; h the spoon should not be full . Indeed , alf a tablespoonful 13 enough . — LOUI SE LI I G O N ew Orl eans. V N ST N HUNT,

CREME D ’ORGE

of of One pound lean veal , one pound lean beef, and two of f ounces pearl barley. Put them into a quart o cold water l et t a . and it boil down o a pint . Rub all through sieve

Melt a spoonful of this strengthening jelly when required .

GUMBO FILET

n Disjoint and cut up a fowl . Fry in pan with onio cut u . of p Put in a soup pot knuckle veal , fried fowl covered in I 3

C ooking in Ol d C re ole D ays

Put can of okra or the fresh okra , and chop it up a bit . it in a saucepan with a little water an d let it simmer a

. quarter of an hour, stirring it all the time Then add to a it either six fresh tom toes , or half a can of tomatoes , and

let it cook on a slow ﬁre for an hour, uncovered . When

your gumbo has been on the ﬁre the two hours and a half,

ff off . you take it o to cool , and skim all the grease Then you put it back in the saucepan and add your okra and tomatoes and let it Simmer slowly for an hour or until the okra is thoroughly cooked . Serve hot , and eat it with dry l h ri ce served i n a separate d S . M ME Eu sn s ME E. . , R

CRAB GUMBO

h al f Take a pound of nice veal , cut it in slices ; or take half a chicken , which you cut in small pieces . Brown it

h l et. well , as you do for the gumbo Let it simmer on the

ﬁre an hour and a half . Pick very carefully twelve or

ﬁfteen crabs , keeping the ﬂesh only . Warm them up in a separate saucepan with a spoonful of butter for a few

i . m nutes Pour it then in your pot over your veal . Add a

few small pieces of fried ham . Season with salt and pepper

to taste . Before you mix the veal and crabs take out all ma m the large pieces of veal , so that the crabs y predo inate,

It should be of a thick consistency . Serve hot , with dry i d15 h I n ° r ce a separate — OSE1> H 1N E N I N ew Orl eans J CAUD,

HERB GUMBO

Clean and prepare a good handful o f fresh spinach

leaves , a handful of beetroot leaves , a handful of radish

leaves , a handful of mustard leaves , a handful of patience I

leaves , one head of lettuce . Throw them in hot water

and let them boil like spinach , then let them drip in a I 5 C ooking in Ol d C re ole Days

colander, chop them all together on a nice clean board ,

as you do spinach . Fry a dozen small pieces of ham

cut in pieces an inch long and half an inch wide , or and also half a chicken cut in pieces , a piece o f o f veal , say half a pound . Add a cup water and let it or simmer three quarters of an hour until all are soft . Then ad d your herbs . Let them simmer together for a quarter to of an hour . If it looks o thick add a few tablespoonfuls

. o f of water It must have the consistency a thick puree . T h o o t . be served , and eaten with dry rice — JOSEPH I NE N I CAUD.

CRAWFISH BISQUE

two or crawﬁ sh Take three dozen , throw them in boiling

or two . water for a minute , clean them thoroughly Take off the heads , empty them , and clean them and wash them , f keeping the fat part o the tails . Put them on a chopping board with the fat, a little chicken or veal , a little stale or bread , chop it all fine together , flavor with pepper, red black, a laurel leaf , or put in a bouquet of aromatic herbs for a few minutes, having tied it with a thread so as to pull it ou t. Brown all this in a saucepan with a spoonful tuff rawfi sh of lard . S the c heads tight with this . Put them in a saucepan to simmer with a quarto f bouillon for or an hour more , until you have a good soup . Serve hot . -MM O EP E N I E. I J S H N CAUD, ’ il Wh o h as b een for over forty years in Amb assador Eus tis fam y.

BOUILLON A LA JAMES MADISON

v ou Two gallons of water , throw in e ery bone y have b ! ham ones are excellent ) , with three good sized carrots , three onions , celery, a can of tomatoes . Salt and pepper

to . . pod taste Simmer, closely covered , all day and all night 1 6 C ooking in Ol d C re ole Days

The next morning strain into a large bowl . If in a hurry

set bowl in cold water , otherwise put in cellar or on ice .

Remove the grease very carefully . Cut up ﬁne, size of dice, o f three pounds rump of beef, take two eggs and break

them over the cut meat, yolk and white . Stir freely .

Add celery, salt and pepper, pour the bouillon on it , settle

. off it on the ﬁre, stir until the froth rises Skim very care

off . fully, strain through a nice clean cloth or ﬂannel Set

aside for use . When ready to serve, warm the quantity

desired , throw in small pieces of celery , cover closely, throw a bunch of chervil and a glass of good sherry in the soup

accordin to . g taste ’ — m i n l Cook, b orn in J a es Mad so s fami y.

POT AU FEU

T H E POT A U FEU I S SERVED DAI LY I N FRENCH FAMI LIES

off Take two pounds of round of beef, cutting all the

fat very carefully, put it in a good sized saucepan , add cold on water enough to cover the meat well , put the lid half

way to allow the steam to evaporate, let it simmer by a ﬁre

of live coals an hour , and skim carefully as the scum arises .

While your broth is cooking, prepare your vegetables, have them nice and fresh , wash and scrape carefully ! requisite care must be taken) , throw them into a pan of cold water to until the time use them . Cut three carrots in half, too

leeks the same way, or half an onion , a small piece of cab of o f bage and a bit garlic, a piece celery, parsley and pepper

. pod Put all these vegetables in your broth , adding two

or three tomatoes , or two spoonfuls of tomatoes ; let it

simmer for two hours , skimming it carefully . It can be

served with or without vegetables . Without vegetables

it can be served as bouillon , to which you add rice, vermicelli , or or macaroni , any other Italian paste, bread dried in the ‘ 7 C ook ing in Ol d C re ole Days

on e oven , or drop in a poached egg, for every person , if your dinner is a little short . These receipts were given to me by an old colored cook ’ s who was brought up in James Madison family, and she ’ said they were served on Mr . Madison s table when he em tertain ed the distinguished guests of his day.

SORREL SOUP

o f Take a handful sorrel , cook it ten minutes in a spoon ’ ful of fresh butter, add a quart of water, salt and pepper, and let it simmer half an hour over a slow ﬁre . Stir in white of an egg, and then let it cook two minutes only, stirring it all the time . Rub in a cup the yolk of an egg with a small piece o f butter . Add a cup of cream . Put some pieces of stale brea d cut in slices in the bottom of n n n your soup tureen . Chop ﬁ e some chervil a d Spri kle on t top jus as you serve it very hot . — LEON I E pEN I N

BARLEY SOUP WITH CELERY Melt a heaping spoonful of fresh butter in a frying-pan ; put to it a cupful of barley ; let it brown a few moments ; add to it two quarts of good broth , and salt to taste . Let it simmer two hours or more on a slow ﬁre ; chop into it — small pieces of celery let it simmer half an hour . Dis o f solve in a glassful of sweet cream the yolks six eggs,

a spoonful of fresh butter added in small pieces, and add

all to the soup . OKRA SOUP

Soak in a little cold water for an hour or two on e pint o f on e the dried okra , add this with the water to gallon

. one of good strong beef stock Also quart of tomatoes , o f on e ! strained through a colander) , a half cupful rice, and 1 8 C ooking in Ol d Cre ole Days

pint of chopped Irish potatoes . Season with salt, green

pepper, or cayenne, chopped celery and onion . Boil in a

porcelain kettle at least ﬁve hours , stirring frequently

with a silver spoon , or new wooden spoon , or the soup r will become da k . The gallon must be maintained by add

ing boiling water at intervals as required . This should

result in a rich, thick soup , such as is liked in the South . m Some cooks prefer to boil eat and vegetables together ,

removing the meat when tender, cutting it into pieces , and

returning it to the soup a few minutes before serving . — MRS. I I . I W LL AM C H LL.

SIMPLE, CLEAR , TOMATO SOUP

Boil your tomatoes with onion and butter thoroughly .

a o f . Add to clear stock , or broth , h lf , white of egg to clear

Let it stand , then pass through cheesecloth that has been washed . TOMATO SOUP

h am Cut one ounce of , a little carrot and onion into w thin slices , place these in a ste pan with two ounces of butter , one bay leaf and a few peppercorns . Add two a t blespoonfuls of flour , stir together on the fire until it becomes a light brown color . Moisten with a quart of n fi re good broth , or stock , stirri g it on a Slow . Add one m quart of canned to atoes , and season with salt , pepper and r n e two ounces of brown sugar . Let it boil together fo o hour, after being thoroughly strained .

SOUTHERN TOMATO SOUP

Southern tomato soup is a meal in itself . Wash two

quarts of tomatoes , and set over the ﬁre in three pints of a w ter ; cook ten minutes , and drain , saving the water for C ooking in Ol d C reole Days

s a m the soup ; press the tomatoe through sieve, add to the c m n one ucumber, peeled and cut s all , one large o ion sliced , s m one dozen okra ! also sliced) , a ﬁve cent arrowbone an d m the water drained from the tomatoes . Si mer for three hours , and just before sending to table thicken with a tablespoonful of ﬂour wet with cold water . Season with salt , cayenne and three pats of butter .

BONNE FEMME SOUP Shred ﬁne a cucumber ! already soaked) and four let

. tucc, one onion and a handful of chervil Put these into a soup pot , with two pats of butter , a little nutmeg, pepper, and salt . Simmer over a slow ﬁre about ten minutes, then add a good spoonful of ﬂour, and three pints of veal broth .

Boil for a quarter of an hour . Stir into it a seasoning six of yolks of eggs , half a pint of cream and a dessert

Spoonful of sugar . Do not let it boil after the egg and cream are added .

SOUP WITHOUT MEAT

Take four or ﬁve cucumbers , according to their Size, pare and cut them in small square pieces ; three cupfuls of f lettuce cut in shreds , two sprigs o mint , a little parsley , n two or three small onio s ! all shredded ) , with a pint of young peas . Put all these herbs into a stewpan , with nearly a quarter of a pound of butter, some salt, and a little cayenne pepper . They must stew gently for an hour . Boil a pint of old peas in a full quart of water . When quite s m oft run the through a sieve, with a wooden spoon , then add them , together with the water they have been boiled in , s s an d h to your tewed herb , let them all stew toget er a full a h lf hour . This soup is all the better if it does not stand long before it is served up . 20 C ook ing in Ol d C re ole Days

OYSTER AND PEANUT SOUP T ake half a pound of shelled and roasted peanuts , well pounded . Add two spoonfuls of flour , mix well , boil a pint of oyster water and mix with the peanuts and flour , let it thicken slowly for fifteen minutes , stirring all the

n . time . Add a pi t of oysters and let them cook ﬁve minutes

Flavor with salt, red and black pepper . — JOSEPH I NE N I CAUD.

OYSTER SOUP

Wash and drain two quarts of oysters; put them on the .

fire with three quarts of water , three onions chopped up , r two or th ee slices of lean ham , pepper and salt . Boil until it is reduced one half, strain through a sieve . Return the liquid into the pot . Put in one quart of fresh oysters . Boil until they are sufficiently done and thicken the soup with four spoonfuls of flour, two gills of rich cream , and the yolks of two nice fresh eggs , well beaten . Boil it a n few minutes after the thicke ing is put in . Take care that it does not curdle, and that the flour is not in lumps .

Serve it up with the last oysters that were put in . If the a m a in ﬂavor of thyme is agree ble you y put a little, but take care that it does not boil in it long en ough to discolor

. the soup M Y R P AR ANDOL H .

NEW ORLEANS OYSTER SOUP

Make a brown . A brown is made by putting a lump e of butter or lard into a sauc pan , adding ﬂour, and stirring until it becomes a rich brown , but is not burned . Add to your brown , salt and pepper . Take a quart of oysters , separate them from their water . Add a pint of fresh water ' it to your brown , then put in the oyster water, let simmer 2 1

SAVAN N E

’ h is th eme G otts ch a lk s tamou s Savan n a was written on t

C ooking in Ol d C re ole Days

small squares about the size of dice, and fry quite brown . Lay in the same pan alternate layers o f thin Sliced potatoes m first , then slices of fish , then broken water crackers , s all fried pork , shreds of raw onion , black pepper and salt to n suit the taste . Co tinue the layers until you have used up m your aterial . Pour over it the pork fat from the scraps and half a pint of water, to keep from burning at the bot tom . Close the saucepan tight and set on the fire . Cook -fi ve slowly , without stirring, for forty minutes , when it is ready for the table . As some fish cook drier than others , if you do not find the chowder thin enough to serve well in tureen , add some fresh milk just before taking up , and let I t come to a b 011 — P R ER O E B oston Se t. 2 18 . A K H US , , p 3 , 73

CHOWDER FOR EIGHT PERSONS

Boil , mash and pass through a colander six potatoes .

Slice and fry brown Six on i ons . Soak quite soft two ship biscuits . Fry four slices of salt pork , the fat cut in small dice . Cut in pieces about an inch thick three or four or b l ackfish pounds of fish , either cod or sea bass, , which are the best ; then proceed as follows ! Put in your pot two four tablespoonfuls of butter, and of salt, scatter a portion of the fried onion in it , then a layer of fish , free from bones , season with a teaspoonful of black pepper, half o f t teaspoonful of grated nutmeg, half cloves , add a bouque of thyme, then put in a layer of potatoes . Repeat the same operation, leaving out the spice and thyme . Then pour in stock enough to cover the whole about four inches, place on the fire, add the biscuit and pork , and three tablespoon fuls of chopped parsley, and cook slowly for an hour . Then

ﬁ ve of . add the juice of a lemon , and lumps sugar Color the soup a dark brown . When ready to serve add a tumbler Of Sh errY — Com liment PE ER M RIE. p s of MR. T A 24 C ooking in Ol d C re o le D ays

CHICKEN PANADE

Boil a large fowl in a quart and a half of water , and

to a . boil down a qu rt Skim the fowl and pound it , bones and all , in a mortar . Spread this paste in a sieve and rub it through . Then pour over it the liquor in which the fowl was boiled , and pour the mixture hot over a stale

French roll , well grated . Take a little frequently through ou t the day . RAW BEEF SOUP

One pound o f chipped beef . Put into a preserve jar with four ounces of water and four drops of muriatic acid poured over it . Put the top down tight , shake, and put on for the ice twelve hours , then put the jar into a pan of cold water ! bain-Marie) and put it on the ﬁre for an hour

. until the water is hot , then strain the contents of the jar off with pressure through a cloth , and put it on the ice o ff until it is cold . Take it the ice and let it stand ten min utes before serving . Salt to taste .

CHICKEN BROTH Take a chicken or fowl ! small pieces of the former a make the broth very good ) and break the bones . Cle n o f it carefully . Put it into a saucepan with two quarts water, a very small onion , a little salt, and two tablespoon

o f . fuls rice When it boils skim and cover closely, and let S for it simmer lowly six hours, if a fowl ; if a chicken , for

. ﬁve hours — S EFFER O OO IDGE MR . J S N C L

BEEF TEA

Three pounds of lean beef . Cut out all the fat and on e gristle, put it in a covered saucepan , with clove, and a 2 5 C ooking in Ol d C re o le Days

lump of ice, the size of your ﬁst , in the centre of the beef,

and the remainder of the beef laid over it . Let it stand

back on the range and simmer until all the juice is extracted ,

then let it have one boil up . Only season as much as you

intend using at once . The remainder can be kept on ice

’ and seasoned as required with salt , pepper, celery salt , or

to suit the taste of the patient .

JUMBALLAY A A LA CREOLE

ﬁ ve Add to a cupful of rice, which has boiled minutes ,

a rich brown chicken fricassee, put it in a saucepan , not

closely covered , let it dry slowly, turn with a fork . The Carolinians make different perlous prepared in the same way by adding cooked tomatoes and butter . Green peas with a little butter is delicious . Okra and tomatoes fried together and added to rice . Oysters a little fried in butter . Hopping John is made in the same way with small pieces of

fried ham , fried sausages, to which you add some cow peas that have been partially boiled . Season highly . The St . Con ris Domingo g is like the Hopping John .

PLAIN BOILED RICE

Take a cup of the best South Carolina rice ! whole) .

Wash it three times in cold water until the water is clear .

The fourth time wash it in hot water , put it in a saucepan

with enough hot water to cover it , salt it , and cover closely

Let it boil from ﬁve to ten minutes . Test it with your off ﬁngers . If cooked , pour the water , add to it a quarter

cupful of cold water, cover closely , and set awhile on the

stove to soak . I f you fear its clinging to the saucepan

stir it with a fork, not a spoon . Your rice will soak and

dry beautifully . 2 6

C o oking in Ol d C reo le Days

JUMBALLAY A

c . c Take a good sized hicken Cut it as for fried chi ken , season it with salt and pepper, and fry in a spoonful of h am lard . Cut up half a pound of in pieces an inch long, a and fry in the same pan . When th t is fried , take out and n in the same lard fry a spoo ful of onions cut very fine . c Sli e up three large tomatoes , or two spoonfuls of canned m to atoes , and fry them in the same pan . Cut up a little parsley and add when everything is fried . Put back your ham and chicken and add two and a half cupfuls of water . o f Let it come to a boil , and then add a cupful well washed r ice. Put it again on a quick fire . When the rice is ! cooked , and the steam begins to rise, put it on a slow fire and add a teaspoonful of butter . If you fear it may burn at the bottom of the pot , use a fork , not a spoon , as the latter makes the rice soggy . Let it soak or dry thoroughly. m m If it does not dry fast enough , put for a o ent in the OVCH — Y L D1A EUSTI S .

RIZ A LA VALENCI ENNE

Make a nice brown fricassee, with a good sized fowl highly ﬂavored ; let it simmer for two hours . Make about o f a pint tomato sauce, adding to it red and green peppers .

It must have cooked two hours . Mix it with the chicken fricassee, let it simmer together . Take a cup of best Caro

i ﬁ v lina rice, prepare it as for bo ling in hot water for e

. or o minutes Use a tureen dish that will g to the ﬁre, on r put in it your chicken , then the rice top, add two o of three spoonfuls the best olive oil , put it in a moderately hot oven, watching it closely ; if it gets dry baste it with do a few spoonfuls of broth on top but not stir it . Arti chokes may be added to it . Serve at table in the tureen .

Warmed over the next day it is even better. 2 8 C ooking in Ol d C re ole Days

HOPPING JOHN Take a cupful of co w peas ! small black pea s) that have

been soaked over night , one onion , parsley and a laurel m leaf . Let the boil in a quart and a pint of water for an

hour, or until soft . Add two cupfuls well washed raw rice . s The rice mu t cook about ﬁfteen or twenty minutes . Then - of add a quarter of a pound of well fried sausages , a slice

ham and a small piece of bacon , both cut in small pieces

an d . or . fried Put your saucepan aside to soak , dry Cover

closely . Be careful it does not burn at the bottom . If the rice has to be stirred use a fork , as it turns easily, and

or . still can not be stirred too much , it becomes soggy ol d- Those fashioned black pots are the best to use . -! U E O S . . NCL J HN, C DAUBE GLACEE OR BCEUF A LA DAUBE

of Take a round beef, clean and dry it carefully with

a towel , rub it in with salt , pepper and cloves, laid with r r smoked tongue o beef suet o forcemeat and a little garlic . Put it in a cool place and let it remain for three or four

days in winter . The night before it is to be cooked , squeeze

o f . the juice a lemon over the beef, on the sides After breakfast put the beef in a Dutch oven with some drip — pings let it be boiling hot before you put the beef in . on Brown well both Sides , then draw the oven from the ﬁre

and let it simmer for three hours , then pare and halve six — large onions, stew them over the beef let it continue to or Simmer for three hours longer, add forcemeat balls, a ’ — calf s foot serve it with gravy in the dish and sauce boat .

P I I P Washin ton D . C. MRS. GE I EU N A H LL S, g , MACARONI Macaroni must be thrown into plenty of boiling water to off cook it well . Then drain it and put it in a dish with 29 C ook ing in Ol d C reole Days

butter, salt and a little powdered mustard and put it in the oven until there is a nice crust on top . Grated cheese or o f of any kind may be added , a few tablespoonfuls well or cooked tomatoes , a few tablespoonfuls of Italian mush u or rooms stirred p with chicken livers, the remnants of pate dé foie gras , or chopped ham or salt tongue, in fact almost anything that will give it a nice relish .

DAUBE GLACEE

Take ﬁve or six pounds of the round of beef, two inches thick . Two days before cooking it , lard it with strips of lard half an inch thick and three inches long . Tie it in a round with a string, not too tight . Season with salt , and black and red pepper, and put in a good pinch of saltpetre .

Let your larding be almost an inch and a half apart . Rub u p your daube with an onion and whatever falls from the seasoning. Put it away in a china tureen in a cool place

- for twenty four hours . Early the next day take one of these thick, black saucepans and put in the bottom of it a

- piece of pig skin the size of the saucepan . Put in a o f on e n bouquet thyme, parsley, two laurel leaves , onio , ’ and a small piece of garlic . Take three calf s feet that h have been cut in alves by the butcher, lay them on top of

an d . the bouquet , add half a cupful of meat juice Let it on simmer a slow fire for half an hour , then add enough water to allow the calf ’s feet to simmer very slowly for fi ve or six hours, until the bones detach themselves from the to meat, the gravy be tested with the fingers until it has ot a gelatinous consistency . The p must be closely covered ,

and a weight put on the cover so that it touches the meat . ’ The calf s feet must be boiled before they are put in the

daube, and that gelatinous water used when your daube is

in to e . cooked . Put it a clean tureen tak a round form 30 C ooking in Ol d Cre ole D ays

’ m off Take out the calf s feet , ski the grease the sauce and a pass it warm through a ﬂ nnel bag . Put in two egg shell s before straining it , and let it cook a while to clear the jelly

! Cut two well cooked carrots in halves . Put them in the bottom of your tureen and place your daube on top . Pour s so your jelly on the ides of the daube, that it runs on the n an d m m bottom of the turee on the Sides, re e bering that when you turn it out in a dish the bottom part will be on top . Put in a cool place, or near the ice . You will have to try several tim es before you succeed in making this very choice and delicious dish, which is meant for cold weather only . MME . I MERE EUST S , .

ROAST BEEF

a Take a roast of beef, as m ny pounds as you need ac s s cording to the number of per on . Wipe well with a clean cloth , salt and pepper it, and ﬂour it . Before you put it

a in a roast pan , put in that pan a small piece of bacon, a sm ll a piece of onion , and a c rrot cut in two, with two table s o f poonfuls meat juice or bouillon , not hot water . Water is very good to wash with , but not to ﬂavor meats with ! m Put your eat in the roast pan in a moderate oven , and cook it by a good ﬁre a quarter of an hour for every pound of meat . Baste it with the drippings , and watch it care fully .

YORKSHIRE PUDDING TO SERVE WITH HOT ROAST BEEF

One and a half pints of milk , six large tablespoonfuls m of ﬂour , three eggs , one s all spoonful of salt . Put the ﬂour s into a basin with the salt , and tir into it gradually enough f milk to make a sti f batter . When perfectly smooth , add 3 1 C ook ing in Ol d C re ole Days

of . th e the rest the milk, and the eggs well beaten Beat mixture for a few moments and pour it into a shallow tin , w hich has previously been well rubbed with beef drippings .

Put the pudding into the oven and bake for one hour, then for half an hour place it under the beef, to catch a little of th e gravy . Cut the pudding into small square pieces . Put I f them on a hot dish and serve . the meat is baked, the pudding may at once be placed under it , resting the meat

- on a small three cornered stand . ’ — E E BR e McKin l e ook 1 S OO Pr s. s C . KAT A K, y

FILET MARINE

When you have a good roast beef, after using the sir l om ﬁl et for your dinner , cut out the and put it on a dish .

Salt and pepper it , rub a little onion over it , pour a table spoonful o f tarragon vinegar and tw o spoonfuls of best m sweet oil over it . From time to ti e baste it with the drippings . Warm it up for another meal , basting it while it is cooking over a slow ﬁre . Serve with fried potatoes . até When you have a remnant of p de foie gras , use it with boiled macaroni . It can be put back in the paste and warmed over in the oven .

TO BROIL A STEAK

your iron hot . Wipe the steak clean . Put it

with melted butter on the hot iron , and broil ten

Turn it twice, and season with salt , pepper and

” E O S. C UNCL J HN, .

BRISKET OF BEEF

b a Take one pound g salt , two of saltpetre, a little sugar , fe and a w cloves . Rub this mixture well into the beef 3 2 C ooking in Ol d C re ole Days

e very day for a week . Then it is ﬁt for use . According to the size of the piece of beef, the mixture must be propor tion all y stronger .

LEG OF MUTTON

Mutton should be kept and hung several days , rub it or o f all over with an onion , a small piece garlic, baste from time to time, with tarragon vinegar and black pepper . Make a mop with a nice clean rag and mop it all over several times .

Roast it and serve hot , do not let it stand .

TO BOIL A WESTPHALIA HAM

Let the ham soak over night . Boil it three hours in the

off . a same water, and let it cool in the same Skin it , put layer o f brown sugar on it moistened with sherry wine ; let

. Smithﬁ eld it brown , put in the oven a few moments A ham may be prepared the same way .

A TODD HAM

- or . Soak forty eight hours, changing water once twice Then put in cold water and let it come to a simmer ! don ’ t boil) , and simmer slowly for four hours . Then skin and f dress with sugar and cracker crumbs , and bake hal an hour until well browned . — MRS E E. . B AL

HAM FRIED WITH SUGAR

Take a few Slices of boiled ham . Sprinkle some brown sugar and a little dry mustard over it . Fry in butter until

h ot a . it browns . Serve , to be e ten with salad 3 3 C ook ing in Ol d C re ole Days

KIDNEY STEW

Take a medium sized beef kidney, put on ﬁre in cold water with an onion , let it simmer, not boil , until tender . Cut in

- thin slices as large as a ten cent piece . Put a piece of — m butter in frying pan , Shake so e ﬂour, let it brown , then add some of the liquor it was cooked in . Serve on toast . Veal ' r s kidney does not requ i e o long cooking ; prepare same way .

TO STEW LAMB AND PEAS

Put the lamb into a stewpan with about a quart of water, when half done add the peas with pepper and salt to taste . Let them stew slowly and have ready some m int and parsley chopped ﬁne, put it in and let all simmer slowly until ready to serve .

’ MRS . KELLY S DELICIOUS MUTTON STEW

Cut in large slices some cold mutton . Take the gravy

left from the day before and warm it . Take a separate

saucepan , put in it a spoonful of butter, a little onion, cut

ﬁne, sprinkle a little corn farina, stirring all the time, until

warm , then add the gravy . Put all in a double saucepan . Then put in the cold mutton and leave until it gets nice and h ot — WH I TCHURCH . DELICIOUS STEW C ut some cold meat into small pieces . Brown golden , of u add small piece b tter , with a suspicion of onion , add a of a cu sprinkling ﬂour , and a little chopped parsley, h lf a p m ful of stock or mutton broth . Let it si mer slowly for n m a half an hour, addi g your e t . Set it way back on your

stove to get the heat . Keep it tightly covered until called

for' ’ — 1E SE BROO Pr Kinl Col ored COO1? es. Mc e s KAT A K, y 3 4

D EN LEG T UR KEY W I TH T H E WOO S

C ooking in Ol d C re ole Days

POTTED VEAL

The livers to be well larded. Put in stewpan with a lard , onion , carrots , pepper, salt , few aromatic herbs , a glass of white wine, let them simmer for three hours . Add ’ a calf s foot , cut in half, and well boiled for several hours . ’ Take out the bones of the calf s foot , put in a bowl to get cold . Will form a nice j elly to be eaten with salad .

TERRAPIN STEW

o f Boil your terrapin soft . Put in a small piece bacon , one or two onions , pepper and butter . Chop ﬁne two or t hree hard boiled eggs . Put all together . Add a little

W l n e. UNCLE JOHN.

TERRAPIN

Put them in tub of cold water for about one hour, after which throw them into boiling water and boil until dead . Then take out and with a rough cloth wipe thoroughly all off in and around shell and legs and feet , to get any black a skin or dirt . Then throw ag in into boiling water and off off cook until the shell comes easily, and the claws pull tried in the same way . Each terrapin has to be separately . to see if the legs are soft and pliant and the shell and off claws come easily ! age tells) , and no amount of cooking in a chaﬁn g dish later will make tender if not cooked enough before being picked . Hold your terrapin over a d ish so that any of the water that runs from it can be saved , and then take off the lower shell an d take out the liver which has the gall bladder in, and , holding that over another dish , cut out the gall bladder as you may break it , and if ’

o . you d , don t want it to spoil your terrapin Pick your 3 7 C o oking in Ol d C re o le Days

i terrapin, leaving the small bones in it , and when p cked , to a pint of the meat and liquor add half pound best butter,

saltspoonful of dry mustard , wineglass of good sherry or s madeira , and salt to taste . Heat when ready to erve, but do not cook , and be sure and have hot plates . If you e ou lik it y can add about a cup of cream, but we do not do it at the club . - EY ide Mar l and Cl u b 18 0. E . B Pres n t JAM S H ARN , y , 7

VEAL TERRAPIN

One pound lean veal , quarter pound veal liver, teaspoon

ful onion juice and four cloves . Cover with water and boil until tender . When cold cut meat and liver into small

pieces . Thicken the water they were boiled in with a tablespoonful of butter rolled in about the same quantity ' of browned ﬂour ! or a little less of the latter) . Pour this

gravy over the meat and add two hard boiled eggs , cut ﬁne, to and a wineglassful of sherry with red pepper, and salt

taste . Heat and serve in chaﬁng dish .

BALTIMORE STYLE OF MAKING TERRAPIN STEW WITHOUT TERRAPIN

ne Cut up a rabbit in pieces o inch square, and do the same thing with a calf’s head which has been thoroughly

cleaned and prepared . Add to it whatever you may have iece o f left over of chicken livers , gizzards , and small p s ' fried bacon or ham . Flavor with salt , pepper and a laurel

. leaf Let it simmer for two hours a day for two days,

! four hours in all ) . Skim off all grease and add to it two

or three hard boiled eggs , cut ﬁne, and a wineglassful of Wh l t m e w e. -M R O D eer Park Md. J ul 188 . A SHALL TH MAS, , , y, 9 3 8 C ook ing in Ol d C re o le Days

DELICIOUS FISH BALLS

Take a quart of hot potatoes , freshly boiled , a cup of r wa med ﬁsh picked very ﬁne, one egg, the white and yellow of beaten lightly separately, a teaspoonful nice butter, a m tablespoonful of fresh crea , add salt, red pepper, a little

n . o ion juice, and parsley chopped ﬁne Beat the whole to a light cream . Roll in balls and drop into plenty of very hot lard , like doughnuts , stirring them all the time .

CODFISH BALLS

on e One cupful raw salt fish , one pint potatoes, egg well beaten , quarter saltspoonful pepper, and more salt if needed , one teaspoonful of butter. Wash the fish , pick in half inch pieces , and free from bones . Pare potatoes and cut in quarters . Put fish and potatoes in stewpan , cover with , -fi ve boiling water . Boil twenty minutes , or until potatoes D off are soft . o not allow potatoes to get soggy . Drain all water , mash and beat until very light . Add butter and

salt , and when slightly cooled the eggs , and more salt i f needed . Shape them without smoothing much . Slip off

into frying hot lard one minute . Fry only ﬁve at a time .

CODFISH CAKES

n Take six good sized potatoes , pare and boil ; o e pound codﬁsh , put it over in cold water, do not let it boil . Mash

ﬁsh and potatoes together . When hot season with salt and

pepper to taste . Add a piece of butter , two eggs beat light ﬁ ve with a fork , fry in boiling lard minutes , put on

sheets of brown paper . Serve hot with some crisp fried

bacon . 3 9

C ooking in Ol d C re o le Days

s . , ﬁne, then parsley , salt and pepper Fill the hells brush over with the white of an egg, cover with bread crumbs

. and put in a quick oven, or cook in a frying basket

DEVILLED CRABS— NEW ORLEANS STYLE

Scald your crabs only in boiling water . Pick and clean ou t them carefully . Take the ﬁrm white ﬂesh , and throw

. ou t the yellow . Moisten the ﬂesh with a little sweet cream

Taste to see that it is not bitter . Put with it stale bread ; crumbs , salt and pepper it , and put this back into the shells

to . sprinkle with bread crumbs , and put in the oven brown CI‘ VC h ot S —MME O EP I E NI . J S H N CAUD.

SAUCE A LA NEWBURG, FOR LOBSTER

Take a quarter o f a pound of melted butter , and a whiskey glass of sherry wine, two yolks of eggs, a little salt and pepper to taste, a little lemon juice and half cup of ful sweet cream , mixed well with half teaspoonful of corn ou starch . Stir all together well the ﬁre without allowing

I t or . I. o burn turn _ Coml,ﬁmem, of MARSHALL THOMAS .

COURT BOUI LLON OF FISH

Make a good brown with a spoonful o f lard and a little ﬂ o f ﬁ n e our . Add a piece garlic and half an onion , cut t o f let them brown well . Add wo tablespoonfuls well

cooked tomatoes , salt, black coarse pepper, red pepper,

coffees oon fu l o f ff . two laurel leaves, and a p sa ron Add

enough bouillon to cover your ﬁsh , and to make a good

. a sauce Add half cupful of good white wine . Take two an d pounds of very fresh , ﬁne ﬁsh , take out the bones , cut

it up in pieces from two to three inches long and wide,

salt well , and fry it in a little lard . Add the fried ﬁsh to 4 1 C o o k in g in Ol d C re o l e Days your sauce and let the whole simm er together for half an hour . Do not turn your ﬁsh , so you may not break the pieces . Cover your pot half way, as you do for a soup , an d h ot' serve - O EP I E N I N ew Orl eans. J S H N CAUD,

MONICA ’ S ” WAY TO COOK FISH

m s a c There are stock ﬁsh someti e c lled tautog, Moni a cooks them thus ! Put the ﬁ sh into a pan with a little butter; n Let them fry until pretty early cooked , then put in a little

n m s . a wi e , pepper and salt , and let the tew Use no w ter

A little more wine , pepper and salt to make a good gravy ! ” so says Monica .

POTATO BALLS

m a m Pare and boil dry so e pot toes . Then put the into a hot pan and mash with a lump of butter , salt and pepper .

a an d m a n m a . Be t this well , ke i to s all ﬂat c kes Dip them into egg and Sprinkle with bread crumbs . Fry a nice brown .

PARTRIDGE A LA UNCLE JOHN

six Take or eight partridges , or small quails , brown them in a small pan with lard and a light sprinkling of

. ﬂour Add three tablespoonfuls of raw tomatoes, half a m e cupful of eat juice, onion , salt and pepp r . Let them simmer an hour , covered . Baste them from time to time with the gravy . Serve with hot rice . ! E O UNCL J HN ,

h e L ree ou th Carolin a . C f for Mr. e Ga , of S

STUFFINGS FOR TURKEYS AND DUCKS

s s f Wild turkey should be tu fed with corn bread , pecan n f r uts and tru ﬂes . Take a piece of corn bread left ove 42 C ooking in Ol d C re o le Days

m s . fro breakfast , moi ten with a teaspoonful of sauce

Add about a dozen peeled pecan nuts , three or four cut f r ff . . t u les , mix well Cook in saucepan Stu f your turkey the day before . Always let your fowls hang by the legs .

‘

A wild turkey Should cook an hour, perhaps a little more or less . Be careful it does not dry , as the ﬂesh is rather dry . a C rve it as you would a wild duck, in thick slices . Put a buttered paper on the breast of the wild turkey, to prevent its drying. Tame turkeys can be cooked and stuffed in the same way . Sausages well fried , with mashed potatoes, salt, and f red pepper, make delicious stu ﬁng for fowls .

TURKEY STUFFING Equal parts of stale baker ’s bread and nice corn bread left over from breakfast, a hard boiled egg. Chop up a few raw oysters , mix well together with butter , salt, pepper, red and white . Put in the oven to bake . Add to it a rem é nant of p té de foie gras and stuff the turkey . Turkey should not cook more than an hour or an hour and a quarter .

Do not let it dry, the juice should run from it when it is carved, baste it with soup or stock .

STUFFING FOR FOWLS

s Oysters , stale bread , onions , par ley, salt and pepper put in the frying- pan with a little butter make delicious

f . f w stu fing Tru fles ith stale bread and butter , warmed up — together in a frying pan, and flavored with salt , pepper, etc .

Spanish chestnuts and bits of ham are delicious stufﬁng . ff Stu your fowls the day before, and hang them up by

the legs four hours before cooking .

Chop ﬁne a pound of young calf . Season with salt ,

pepper , and onion juice . Let it fry in a saucepan with a 43 ‘ Cooking in Ol d C reole Days

! little butter and a sprinkling of ﬂour . Add enough oyster

it . water to soften , and half a pint of oysters Let all fry together to the consisten cy of a paste . This may be used atés f for small p also, and pigeons may be stu fed in the u same way , and allowed to simmer in a sa cepan , with a little gravy, closely covered .

CHICKEN CASSEROLE

Take a medium sized chicken , singe and draw and prepare it , put in casserole whole, add a good lump of but ter, onion , salt and pepper . Steam gently on top of range two hours , then add mushrooms and vegetables to taste ; brown and serve hot . _ m T OMNEy ,

CANVASBACK DUCK

Lose as little of the juice or blood as possible . Split it down the back . After singeing it very carefully, lay it on a gridiron with the split side toward the fire, which must K be very hot . eep flat on the gridiron by pressing the other half, but do not bruise the flesh by pressing too much . Allow the duck to remain over the fire twelve or fifteen min off the utes , then take , and expose breasts to the heat just long enough to brown the skin nicely . It is then cooked , f and must immediately be served . A salad o celery may n i o na se is the proper thing to eat with it . — MRs WI Lc x Aiken S . . o , , C.

HOW TO ROAST DUCKS

’ Don t wash your ducks , but wipe them thoroughly with

a clean cloth , inside and outside . Rub the back ! inside and i outside) with a small piece of on on . Salt and pepper them

the same way . Tie them up tightly so the juice does not of escape . Rub the breast each duck with a spoonful of 44 C ookin g in Ol d C reole Days

- s c olive oil . Lay in your dripping pan a li e or two of bacon , one carrot one leek, two bay leaves , a piece of celery . Place the ducks on this , and let them cook in a moderate oven - m twenty ﬁ ve minutes . Put in any dressing you would ake m for a roast chicken . With all your roast eats put in the

- bottom of your roast pan a carrot cut in half, a piece of onion , celery and parsley . The same with boiled meats or ﬁsh , to give a foundation taste to your food . ’ A I E SE BROO President McKinl e s Col ored Cook. K T A K , y

HOW TO SERVE CHICKEN

Wash your chicken , dry with a nice clean cloth , put it in a tray of salt and water to cover ten minutes , dry it and salt and pepper and ﬂour it well , throw it in a pan of hot lard , hot enough to make it a golden brown , when done lay it on a piece of very clean paper to absorb the grease . o ff Throw the top grease, put a handful of ﬂour, stir to a n brown , add to it a pi t of stock , stir and strain , then put your chicken in and let it simmer slowly until the chicken gets soft ; make a nice pot of mush , let it get cold , cut it and fry and serve with the chicken . Fry Jerusalem arti chokes and let them simmer with the fricassee ; this is also

i i . ’ del c ous — E I E i on Cook Mrs . Mad s s ELL N WH T , .

FOR BROILING CHICKEN

T o prepare chickens to roast and broil , when once you have washed your chickens, wipe them carefully with a dry cloth . Salt and pepper them two or three hours before cooking, put them in the refrigerator . Put a little sweet oil over them before broiling them on a slow ﬁre ; while cooking baste them with a little water . For roasting chickens do

. f or the same as for broiling Stu f them , put three four 45 C ooking in Ol d C re ole Days

large spoonfuls of butter inside the chicken . Bake one hour, slow ﬁre .

NEW ORLEANS WAY TO COOK SNIPE

’ s Take ome j elly made of calf s feet and madeira wine . ' A small piece of salt pork and a piece of liver . Chop the meat up ﬁne, with seasoning of salt, red and black pepper . Put a few soda crackers in the oven and toast and pulverize them . Mix them with your chopped meat . Add chopped f m s tru ﬂes and ushrooms, and ju t enough meat juice to

. m soften it Cut your snipe in two . Put the in a china tureen and ﬁll in the empty places with this hash . Put it on n a very slow ﬁre for several hours , basti g it with the JeHY — MR BER O . S. CUTH T SL CUM

CHICKEN PIE

Make a rich brown chicken fricassee . Tie a bouquet of aromatic herbs with a thread and let it stand in the

ﬁ ve ou t. fricassee minutes , then take it Cut up two hard n boiled eggs and put them i the fricassee . Cook thoroughly over a slow ﬁre . Have your pie crust ready, and put the

fricassee in it , not forgetting to prick the top crust with an iron fork in several places to allow evaporation . Other

' W i r ro se I t will ferment and the result will p o ve disast u s. — F AUNT RACH EL CO FI N.

CHICKEN CROQUETTES

Pair of fowls weighing six pounds . Choose those with m f ost breasts . Boil in su ﬁcient water to cover them , with

two onions , two carrots , small bunch of thyme and parsley,

a few cloves and half a grated nutmeg . After they have o f become cold and very tender , divest them skin , fat 46

T H E ON E-EY ED B OY AND H I S ON IO N ST EAL

C ooking in Ol d C re ole D ay s

gristle and tendons, and chop the meat as ﬁne as possible . A half pound of best butter to each chicken should be put into a saucepan with a tablespoonful of ﬂour, and cook

. a together, stirring constantly to prevent burning Add c gill or so of the stock in whi h the chickens are boiled, and a tumbler of rich cream . Boil eight or ten minutes, stirring s constantly . Remove from the ﬁre and season with alt ,

an d . . pepper grated nutmeg Mix well Stir in milk rapidly , l l add the yolks of four eggs . Put a on the fire and stew the m s mixture for a mo ent, stirring bri kly , after which pour a m the m ss out in a flat dish , and let it re ain until perfectly m cool . Then ake it up into pear shaped rolls with the assistance of a little flour to prevent the mixture from stick ing to the fingers . When all are ready, dip each one n m separately i to the yolk of eggs beaten with a little crea , and roll them as fast as dipped into fresh bread crumbs made from day old bread . Let them stand for an hour or t so to dry . Now fry them a delicate brown in plen y of

m . clear frying hot lard . Lay the in a colander to drain

Serve on a napkin in a warm dish .

NEW ORLEANS VEAL WITH OYSTERS

s or Make a brown with a poonful of nice fresh butter , n lard . Chop a pou d of nice, tender young veal . Flavor

- with salt and pepper . Put it in the frying pan . Add a c little ﬂour . Let it come to a good color . Add a upful of c oyster water, and some well chopped parsley . Let it ook

for half an hour over a Slow ﬁre . Add your oysters and

let them cook ﬁve minutes . Never allow your parsley to f fry . This makes a delicious stu ﬁng for chickens and d s uck by adding a little stale bread . It may be used also

atés . for small p , or simply serve on pieces of toast — I JOSEPH I NE N CAUD. 48 Cooking in Ol d C reole Days

BLANQUETTE OF VEAL C ut some very tender pieces of veal into square pieces . Let them brown in a saucepan with lard until they are a golden color . Add just enough cold water to cover them , with salt , pepper, onion, one carrot , parsley and laurel leaf, and let them simmer on a slow fire for two hours . Put in a fresh saucepan a tablespoonful of fresh butter and two of flour . Stir it well over the fire until it takes a good color . Moisten with a little meat juice and let it simmer . Dis solve in a cup the yolk o f an egg with a little lemon o f juice, or a small spoonful vinegar, and a large spoonful of cream . Stir it a bit and then add to your simmering sauce . Simply mix , and do not let them boil . Pour it over your meat which has been simmering in its juice . You can add mushrooms or chopped truffles to this dish for a dl nn er party . — LEONI E PENI N .

SAUCE BEARNAISE — T o make this admirable sauce y a souvenir of the moun — tain home o f Henri de Navarre put in a saucepan two tablespoonfuls of chopped shallots ! small green onions) , an d four of white wine vinegar . Reduce to one half . Add o f s six yolks egg , two tablespoonfuls of beef extract and stir on the ﬁre with a wooden spoon , until it thickens . Put a o f little to the Side, and add , a bit at a time, a half pound good table butter, dropping a little water in when the sauce becomes too thick . Press through a napkin . Finish with o f ﬁnely chopped tarragon , chervil , parsley, and a pinch red pepper . DUTCH SAUCE

two two an d Yolks of eggs , quarter pint of cream , a quarter spoonfuls of elder vinegar , a little fresh butter,

ﬂour enough to render the same the consistency of custard . 49 C ooking in Ol d C re ole Days

SAUCE BORDELAISE

Put a tablespoonful o f ﬁnely chopped shallots ! small

green onions) , two tablespoonfuls of bruised cloves, and i h w t . two pieces of garlic into a sau cepan , a little butter

Fry a little . Add two glasses of claret wine, a pint of

a . Sp nish sauce, and a pinch of red pepper Reduce to the off m consistency of a sauce . Finish with le on juice, chopped parsley and four ounces of beef marrow cut in

. rounds , and hardly heated in salted boiling water Use

I mmed iately . — DELMONI CO.

SAUCE FOR WILD DUCK

o One tablespoonful of sugar , one tablespoonful f to mato catsup, lemon juice, salt , cayenne pepper .

LOBSTER SAUCE

One pound of lobster, three tablespoonfuls of cream , one . o f of butter, salt , cayenne pepper Beat the coral the

lobster with the cream and butter.

CALF ’ S LIVER A LA CELESTE S MITH Cut a few slices of very tender veal into pieces three

inches long and half an inch thick . Fry them in lard with a

little onion chopped very ﬁne . Add half a cupful o f bouil

lon or sauce . Let them simmer half or three quarters of

an hour . Add parsley well chopped . Boil a handful of

best Italian macaroni . Put it in the bottom of a long d ish . Pour your livers and sauce on top . Trim with vul slices of lemon . Old Céleste would say it was a very ”

n e . gar dish, but a delicious o — ’ ELE E I M Eu i M re ook. S me. sts e s C C ST M TH , 50 C ook ing in Ol d C re ole Days

NEW ORLEANS VEAL BALLS

Chop ﬁne a pound of young veal . Season with salt , pepper , thyme and onion juice . Roll this in balls . Let them brown in a saucepan with butter an hour before

. you have prepared the sauce — O EP I E N I J S H N CAUD.

SAUCE FOR VEAL BALLS

a Make a brown with a nice piece of tender young ve l , say one pound . Cut in pieces about half an inch thick , to which you add small pieces of fresh ham , well browned , a few slices of tomatoes well fried, and a little onion . Add mm to this half a cu pful of soup or stock . Let it si er slowly for half an hour . Then add your veal balls, freshly fried .

Let them all simmer together until ready to serve . To be eaten with very hot rice . Sweetbreads can be put in this s ame sauce . When they have been thoroughly prepared , cook them , and baste in this sauce over a slow ﬁre, and they come out a golden color . They are delicious when h so cooked . Cold , eaten with lettuce salad , with Frenc dressm g. — I JOSEPH I NE N CAUD.

SPICED BEEF

Take round of beef and put in a porcelain pot . Over of this pour one can tomatoes , and put one bunch of carrots , and one onion , sliced ﬁne . Put this on the back of the ’ ’ an d stove at three o clock for an eight o clock dinner , let it cooked slowly all the time . A short time before dinner add a heaping tablespoonful of cloves and one of allspice, ground . Then take a cup of ﬂour and brown it and make into gravy and add this to the rest . 5 1 C ooking in Ol d C re o le Days

STEWED TONGUE FOR LUNCH Boil a fresh tongue until it is tender and dress it ready for the table . Take a little more than a pint of the water it was boiled in and add to it half a pint of port wine, a a small tumbler of currant j elly, small pinch of mace, and u salt to taste . Stew the tong e in this gravy for an hour, and serve in the gravy .

CUCUMBER CATSUP

Take three dozen full grown cucumbers , pare and slice thin . Pare and slice two quarts of white onions very thin .

Mix through them one pint of salt . Spread to drain for an d six or eight hours , then squeeze perfectly dry . Put

in a large bowl and add quarter pound brown sugar , half a pint olive oil , half pound must rd seed, quarter pound ground black pepper, two quarts boiling vinegar . Mix well together . Then put in small jars and cover, if necessary, with cold vinegar and on top of each jar pour a little olive

oil . Put in jars with tight tops .

VEGET ABLE S

SWEET POTATOES

Take six sweet potatoes , not too large, scrape them on

a scraper . Add two spoonfuls of water, salt , pepper , sugar

to taste, and a spoonful of butter . Mix all together to the

consistency of a good paste . Put in a dish that goes to the

ﬁre, and place in the oven . Before doing so , take a straw

and stick it on top to allow evaporation . 52

C ooking in Ol d C reole D ays

u o f ses, both the usual and the more uncommon forms of serving it .

In the important matter of the family table, that true economy whi ch consists of the best use of material to gain the desired end is greatly furthered by ingenuity in provid~ Of ing variety without extra expense . Here the skill the cook has its actual money value ; and no good housekeeper ! ” forgets that money saved is money earned . — OMATO SoU Ps . T Either with or without meat stock , an excellent soup is ea sily made from tomatoes . A savory bisque requires only the quart or more of sliced at tom oes , stewed until tender with a little water, then pressed through a Sieve and mixed with a pint of rich milk ! an added cupful of cream improves it) Slightly thickened by rubbing together two tablespoon fuls of ﬂour with two of butter and cooking smoothly with the milk . Season to taste ; a little cayenne is desirable, some will like a spoonful of onion juice, or celery salt may be preferred . Serve very hot , with crackers or croutons .

For this and for most tomato soups, canned tomato may be substituted for the fresh fruit . v or A soup stock of beef, mutton , lamb , eal chicken makes a basis for a somewhat richer soup , and this is a con ven ien t way of using remnants not otherwise available .

Simmer the tomato slowly in the stock , coming in propor tions to suit according to its richness . A weak stock may re— be enforced by a quart of tomato to a quart of stock , and a carrot or two added , with half a mild onion , two or three stalks of celery and a little bag of sweet herbs . When the vegetables are very tender, press through a ﬁne sieve and thicken very slightly as before with ﬂour and butter rubbed together . Another good combination is with rice cooked very u thoroughly and pt through a strainer . In this case no 54 C ooking in Ol d C re ole Days

. c c flour is needed Especially good with hi ken , and the bones o f a pair of roast fowls will make a delicious toma to soup . I TH ARI OUS EATS — W V M Tomatoes may be roasted , n broiled , baked , fried or stewed to accompa y any kind of meat , or served in an almost infinite variety of combina n e — tio s . They may be fried in deep fat or saut d why s have we no good English word to expres that crisp , sur face frying with a little butter or fat in a very hot pan ? n For baki g, they may be carefully Skinned and baked plain , set n an d Side by side in a baki g dish , serve hot with a little butter, salt and pepper in the centre of each . Or the centre ma y be taken out carefully with a Spoon , so as to leave a - f cup like shell of the firm pulp , and a rich stu fing put in its place . A little ham or veal , finely minced and mixed with a cracker dust , se soned and bound together with a well beaten egg, makes a good filling . Or the straight pulp of the tomatoes may be highly seasoned and m ixed with grated onion , bread crumbs, melted butter, salt and pepper .

Add a lump of butter to each on taking up . ESCALLOPED TOMATO is an other savory preparation m a f which y be varied with di ferent seasonings . Arrange in layers , alternating with the peeled and sliced tomato, bread crumbs dotted with butter and well seasoned , or a s c light prinkling of sausage or very thin hips of bacon . Put a good layer of crumbs on the top and bake slowly for a

c . full hour, then brown to a rich olor

Mushrooms and macaroni are two very unlike materials , c either o f which combines perfectly with tomatoes . Ma a an roni may be used for alternate layer, as in the escallop given above . An Italian method is to ﬁrst fry a little minced onion in butter and add to it a pint of tomatoes cut small , with salt and black pepper , simmering gently until quite soft ; then press through a strainer . The macaroni C ooking in Ol d C re o le D ays

is a c an c cooked in another s u ep and arefully drained , then m tossed with a liberal lu p of good butter, until well cooled .

Stir in the tomato and serve as soon as thoroughly heated . ! ” — - WI TH B EAN S A left over of baked beans goes well

combined with tomato . They may be used together, either in the form of soup or sufﬁciently solid for a nice hot supper

or side dish . To a pint of cold baked beans add a pint of boiling water and a pint of tomatoes cut small ; also a slice

or two of onion and two or three stalks of celery . Stew for

twenty minutes , or longer if not in haste, and put through a s s trainer . Melt two table poonfuls of butter in a saucepan and blend with two of ﬂour ; add by degrees the bean s and n serve very hot . Use only water enough to preve t burn

ing, if a solid dish is wanted . A A - L DS. S The tomato serves perfectly in a salad , or either with lettuce celery ; whole, ﬁlled or sliced ; with a

rich mayonnaise, or with the simplest French dressing . With a can of salmon a very handsome and rich salad is th e a ﬁ rm prepared . Take out s lmon in neat , bits and lay them in a dish of cold Spiced Vinegar while the tomatoes are o ff prepared . Cut the stem end and hollow out with a

- pointed Spoon to make a neat , ﬁrm cup . Medium sized tomatoes of even form and well ripened should be chosen .

Mix a little salt, cayenne and vinegar, with or without oil ,

as preferred , and sprinkle the tomatoes well , then ﬁll with — the salmon . Cucumbers in paper thin slices may be mixed

with the ﬁsh . Serve on lettuce leaves with a cupful of

mayonnaise . I E OZ —B0th JELL D OR FR EN . cucumbers and tomatoes are

frequently served now in the form of j elly, using the pulp

pressed through a steamer, with gelatine, as in other gela

tine jellies . Cubes of this j elly are especially popular with Of chicken salad . Frozen tomato is fered in the same way

with meat salads or cold luncheons . The pulp is highly 56 ‘ C ooking in Ol d Cre ole D ays

seasoned and frozen like a water ice . It is then either chilled

again in small cups , to make an individual mold , or served a by the spoonful upon the pl tes . Tomatoes cannot be stewed under two to three hours

of . to get rid that raw , watery taste Take ﬁve or six th e tomatoes or a can of tomatoes , throwing out water , put

in a saucepan with a small piece of onion , a bit of parsley ,

salt , pepper , teaspoonful of butter , a pinch of sugar ; let m it simmer fro two to three hours uncovered . Serve for re- dinner or set aside to add to a poor soup, or to enforce a or gravy, i f your dinner is short, put about half of it in

a warm dish , poach six eggs , set them a few moments on a nice, dry , warm napkin to dry , then put them on the e orto ais tomatoes and serve des o ufs a la p g . Sliced fresh

tomatoes , salt and pepper and powdered with crumbs of toasted bread , fried in hot butter and served hot immediately, are very delicious for breakfast . M I MB L — T o TO ATO T A E . be served with lettuce and may onn aise ! sauce Take six fresh tomatoes or a can of tomatoes , off of which you throw the liquor , stew them down su fﬁ ’ cientl s y with a spoonful of Cox gelatine , put enough to t keep the tomatoes together, season to taste wi h salt and

cayenne pepper , pour into small timbales to shape them , place on ice to get cold and serve with lettuce and mayon

naise sauce . TOMATOES

th e Tomatoes must be cooked several hours , otherwise v

taste sour and watery .

Slice them , salt and pepper them , add a few bread

crumbs, broil them on the gridiron , serve very hot for

breakfast . f Stu fed with mince meat , or sliced , with French dress

or . ing mayonnaise sauce, they are delicious 57 C o oking in Ol d C reole Days

. Scald , peel , and slice them Put in the refrigerator ,

with French dressing . Put a slice o f onion in the dish with

them , and remove it before serving . NI CE WAY OO OMATO E F EAK FA T A T O C K T S OR BR S . A wa m nice y to cook tomatoes for breakfast is to slice the ,

salt and pepper them , sprinkle with bread crumbs , a little

on . butter them , and broiled Serve very hot immediately,

without letting them stand .

EGG PLANT

ou t Parboil them , cut them in half and scrape the soft to part , which you put in a bowl . Add it some chopped

meat and a little stale bread . Season with salt , pepper ,

of . onions , parsley, and a little bit ham or tongue Put all

- in the frying pan for a few moments , then put back in the - on to egg plant shells , with sprinkled bread crumbs p, and

brown in the oven .

FRIED CARROTS

Take a few tender young carrots . Slice them ! round

wise) very thin , roll them in brown sugar, and fry them

brown in butter .

JERUSALEM ARTICHOKES

Scrape and boil them , not too soft, with salt . They

are delicious as a salad with French dressing . They can be or used in a brown chicken fricassee, with roast chicken

or or . duck, dressed with a white sauce

GLOBE ARTICHOKES They should be boiled with the leaves downward in salt w . h ot or or ater Serve cold , with sauce vinaigrette white 58 C o oking in Ol d C re ole D ays

n sauce . Also with the inside leaves take out and ﬁlled up f with stu ﬁng of veal and chicken , and a little bit of ham , all

well chopped up together . Let them simmer together for or two of half an hour, adding a spoonful soup to make a

gravy . SQUASH

or . Take a squash cymling. Parboil it Cut it in half

! roundwise) , and with a spoon scrape out the inside part and put that in a bowl . Add to it some stale bread crumbs,

a little milk or cream , a spoonful of sugar, salt , pepper and butter . Beat all well together , then put for a few moments

- into a frying pan on the ﬁre . Then put all back into the on squash shell , sprinkle bread crumbs top, and put them in to the oven brown a bit . They are most delicious cooked

in this way . CARROTS

Slice ﬁve or six carrots roundwise . Put them into a

. t r of saucepan Add wo o three tablespoonfuls water , a t and of f hut ablespoonful of sugar, a teaspoonful very resh

. n for or ter Cover closely . Let it simmer o a slow ﬁre two u d r I f ou three hours , and they will come o t soft and ten e . y have a dish o f carrots every day on your table you will save ’ your doctor s bill . b d d and k d Carrots are very nice oile slice , coo e with or in d a white sauce ; , sliced roun ,thin slices , put in a sauce

and . Let pan with butter, salt , pepper a little sugar them tw o or add simmer on the side of the stove three hours , a

d s . little chopped parsley . Perfectly eliciou and Take these same carrots , crush them , pass them and through a sieve . Add some bouillon , let them cook sl owly half an hour together Such a delicious soupe e cr me . 59 C o ok ing in Ol d C re ole Days

too . Boil a few carrots, not soft Slice and fry them in

butter, after having sprinkled them with brown sugar . h Serve ot. LUCCHETTI— FRIED

I TALI AN VEGETABLE

for Cut in strips, rather ﬂat , like potatoes , frying crisply a la francaise. Leave them two or three hours , after sprink n li g salt on them , to expel the moisture . Lay them a little

while on a napkin . Dip them in ﬂour, and fry quickly

until brown . Sprinkle powdered sugar on them before servm g.

Or they may be served farcis, in pieces cut like fond ’ d r ich au a t ts. S PINACH

o Spinach must be thrown into b iling water, and when fﬁ or su ciently cooked drained in a colander cheesecloth , and chopped ﬁne on a very clean board with a perfectly

clean knife, then warmed in a saucepan ; add salt , butter and

sugar to taste , and serve very hot and quickly. It should be trimmed with small pieces o f fried bread a round the dish .

STRING BEAN S

o Make a bouquet f a small green onion , some parsley ,

l . T a aurel leaf, a very small bit of thyme ie all together add with a long string, your string beans, and when the h as i it out l bouquet boiled ﬁfteen m nutes , take , eaving the

l . string Beans to boil ﬁfteen minutes onger Let them , like

d e in of h ot . spinach , anc around plenty water When

. Do not cooked , strain them in a colander at once let them in of get cold . Let them drip a clean piece cheesecloth 60

C ooking in Ol d C reo le Days

ASPARAGUS SOUP

This can be made next day from the same water in which the asparagus was boiled by adding whatever cold meat you have on hand , with salt , pepper and parsley . If you wish to thicken it , small pieces of potatoes , cut up and s passed through a sieve, may be added , al o a handful of sorrel , a small lettuce , two small green onions, and chervil .

HOW TO COOK MUSHROOMS IN A CHAFING DISH HALF AN HOUR BEFORE SERVING

Take a heaping plateful of nicely peeled mushrooms , put ch aﬁ n - a tablespoonful of fresh butter into a g dish , and pour

th e . mushrooms on top of it Salt and pepper them , cover —h y e them closely and let them cook twenty or thirty minutes . m t Put so e nice pieces of dry toas on each plate, and serve ’ - ch aﬁ n . yourself from the g dish Hail Columbia , it s good !

T H E WAY T O TELL GOOD MUSHROOMS FRO M POI SONOUS ONES Only gather mushrooms in open ﬁelds where cows or sheep have pastured , and those that are pink underneath , and as they grow old and large dark brown underneath .

They are all rather fat and stocky . Alongside of them grow cream - colored or white poisonous ones which smell ﬁ n D n t . Con e rank . O o touch them yourself to the pink and brown only and you are safe . If you have any doubts , throw them away . There are many other species of mush to ou rooms , but if you keep those described y are safe, and they are the best .

6 2 C o oking in Ol d C re ole D ays

MI S CELLAN EOUS D I S H E S

MACARONI PIE

Put the macaroni on to boil in plenty of cold water with an onion . Let it boil gently until the macaroni is quite on s tender , then throw it a sieve to drain ; but ﬁrst wa h it in cold water . Then put on half a pint of cream to boil with about four ounces of grated Parmesan cheese, a table spoonful of mustard , a little cayenne pepper , salt and butter .

Thin it in some macaroni , and let it stew gently a few min utes . Have some grated cheese mixed with a few bread crumbs . Put the macaroni in a deep dish , sprinkle the crumbs o f cheese over the top and bake it . — ’ P D r old Recei t . MRS PHI I r. A n s . LL S ! p)

CORN OYSTERS

o f Grate one pint young corn , add one egg, well beaten , one - S small teacupful of ﬂour, one half cupful of butter, alt

. and pepper, mix well . Fry a spoonful at a time, butter them

G EG S , PORTUGUESE STYLE

Slice some nice fresh tomatoes , salt and pepper , put of a on crumbs bre d them , fry them well , put them in a a hot dish and put on top several poached eggs . The s me can be served on a good tomato Sauce that has cooked three hours . EGGS A LA MORELLE e Boil six or eight eggs hard twenty minutes . Mak a nice white sauce in a double saucepan with a pint of cream , f mix a tablespoonful o butter with ﬂour , add gently and

to . carefully cream , salt, red pepper, and a little onion juice 63

Cooking in Ol d C reo le Days

h W en the sauce is made, cut the eggs in half and add the sauce. HOW T O MAKE TEA

Scald you r teapot with boiling water . Put in it a spoon ful of tea with a large spoonful of hot water . Let it stand o f one moment . Add a cupful boiling water . Let it t stand . Add another cupful o suit the taste . By this system you extract the best aroma out of tea . Of course your water must be boiling . Put a little hot water in your cups to warm them .

COLD TEA

o and Make your tea early in the afterno n , pour it from on e to vessel another , shaking violently until it pains your arm . Then pour it into the pitcher from which you wish on or to serve it , and let it stand the ice, in the refrigerator , until you want it . Crack your ice ﬁne, and put a small quantity in each tumbler . Then pour in the tea, already sweetened , and add slices of lemon to taste . — MRS P I I P o Washin ton D . C. . H LL S, f g ,

H OW T O MAKE DRIP COFFEE

- T k a e d or ff ot. a e Fr nch ripper, French co ee p Wash

h ot . it in water . It must be perfectly pure and clean Put in it two or three tablespoonfuls of Java and Mocha mixed . it of of Pour over a quarter a cupful tepid water, just to h ff it s t e . soak co ee Let stand a few moment , then pour on of l it d ﬁ ve it a cupful boi ing water , and let rip minutes f h o ot . more . Then add another cupful water Test the i l i ff . s too co ee I f it weak , pour the who e th ng over the top h . too otw . again If it is strong, add more ater Rinse your h cups in ot water before using them . 64

C ooking in Ol d C reole Days

EGGS A LA MORELLE

Cut six hard boiled eggs in half. Take the yolks o f m three eggs . Put the in a small saucepan with a pint of

cream and a good spoonful of butter . Stir all the time, the ca pan being in another pan of hot water . Be reful to put

th e cream in before the butter . Before serving put in a

few drops o f vinegar or a little lemon juice . Pour this

sauce over your hard boiled eggs . It can also be used with

vegetables .

BISCUITS MADE OVER NIGHT

o f o f t of One quart ﬂour, pinch sal , two tablespoonfuls lard . Break over it a raw egg . One yeast cake in cupful of

cold water . Knead it with the hand for twenty minutes . Let ou t it rise over night . Cut in round form with large cutter .

Butter lightly with melted butter . Turn it over and let

for two . it rise hours, and bake in quick oven

LOAF BREAD

of on e Three quarts ﬂour ! for four loaves) , teaspoonful s salt, one tablespoonful sugar and one table poonful of lard ,

- dissolved in hot water, three fourths cupful of milk and small yeast cake soaked half hour in tablespoonful of tepid water . Stir all together with knife until knife stands up in the s ponge . Let rise over night . Knead out and put in pans an not quite half full , that it may rise to the edge in about

hour . Bake in oven of moderate heat about an hour and

a half . THIN WATER BISCUITS

- One half pound of ﬂour, two ounces butter well rubbed

l . f into the ﬂour, a pinch of sa t Mix into a sti f paste with 6 7 C o oking in Ol d C re ole Days

. milk , then roll out very thin Prick the paste well with the biscuit pricker . Cut in diamonds, and bake them in a quick oven .

THICK WATER BISCUITS

o f two o f Three pounds ﬂour, and a half ounces butter ,

on e of . pinch of salt, teaspoonful baking powder Mix all

- well together into a stiff paste with milk . Roll ou t one half an inch thick . Prick them well . Cut them with a round not so h ot cutter and bake as quickly as possible, but in an oven as the thin biscuits .

SOUEFLE BISCUITS

Rub four ounces o f butter into a quart of ﬂour . Make

t . it in o paste with milk . Knead it well Roll it as thin as paper . Bake it to look white .

’ — AUNT ANNE S CORN- BREAD WITHOUT POWDER

one Take a quart of corn meal , quart of milk ! you scald m o o f s the milk and add it to the corn eal ) , tablesponful fre h ff butter . Let it stand until it cools o a little ; then you add ﬁve well beaten eggs . Bake in a quick oven . Mix half

- quantity with three eggs if you wish a smaller corn bread . —B I ORE ALT M .

AUNT ANNE ’ S DELICIOUS CORN-BREAD

of one of One cupful white corn meal , cupful boiled o f hominy, knead two eggs in the hominy, put in a piece of on e butter, melted the size a hickory nut, pinch of salt , o of one go d pinch sugar , whip all that together, add corn 6 8 C ooking in Ol d C re ole Days meal and cold milk alternately to a thick consistency until

’

dr s off . it op the spoon in a thick batter, like a thick mush o f ou Sometimes put in a pinch yeast powder, just as y are going to put it to bake . Mix it well , bake it and serve . ’

. - Don t let it stand _B ALrm om

AUNT ANNE’ S HOECAKE

of o Take a large cupful corn meal , sift it in a b wl , one pinch of salt , mix it with a little boiling water . Let it get

. on to . cold Make some small round cakes, pinch them p

Put in a pan to bake in the oven .

HOMINY BREAD AND WAFFLES

of One egg, four tablespoonfuls hominy , four table o f two spoonfuls plain ﬂour ! sifted) , tablespoonfuls of

of . melted butter, and two cupfuls sweet milk Put the butter in the hominy and add the other ingredients , putting in the

of . ﬂour last, with a small pinch baking powder

SALLY LUN N

of one of One quart ﬂour, teaspoonful salt, one table o f on e o f spoonful sugar, heaping tablespoonful lard and butter mixed with on e-third of a yeast cake ; three eggs well beaten . Make the dough with warm water in winter

and with cold water in summer . It should be the consist

of or . ency light bread dough , rather, softer Let it rise for or T four ﬁve hours . ouch lightly, and turn into a buttered

ake . c mold , and bake without a second kneading It will take mi . nearly forty nutes to bake , and should then soak well

- L UDE D E Vir inia. A R AL , g 69 Cooking in Ol d C re ole Days

CORN PONE

Corn pone is highly recommended as a breakfast dish . coffeecu fu l o f Take a heaping p boiled hominy, heat it, and of thin in a tablespoonful butter, three eggs , and nearly one pi n t of sweet milk . As much corn meal may be added as ! will serve to thicken this till it is like the batter for Johnny ” cakes . Bake in a quick oven and serve . ’ i one of Th omas J eﬁ erson s Pl an tat ons.

POP—OVERS

T wo of two o f cupfuls ﬂour, three eggs , cupfuls milk , One- half teaspoonful of salt . Beat eggs , without separating , very light . Pour mixture slowly over ﬂour to prevent lump

et . ing . Grease cups with butter . Put in oven to g hot Cook in moderate oven at bottom about three-quarters of an 1101113 — SARAH JOHNSTON.

SALLY LUNN

on e of Five eggs , and a half pints of ﬂour, full spoonful butter, put in the yolks ! whites are not used) , and two s o f o f poonfuls sugar , one glass sour milk, with teaspoonful of baking powder .

CORN BREAD

of two of A handful hominy, spoonfuls butter and lard one of on e mixed , three eggs, cupful corn meal , and cupful of milk . CORN CAKE

on e one- With quart of corn meal , scalded mix half of - o f quart milk and one half quart water, small quantities of soda, salt and brown sugar . 70 C ooking in Ol d Cre ole Days

CORN MEAL BREAD

Rub a piece of butter the size of an egg into a pint o f corn meal . Make it a batter with two eggs and some new milk . Add a spoonful of yeast . Set it by the ﬁre an hour

to . . rise Butter little pans, ﬁll them , and bake

SWEET POTATO BUNS

Boil and mash a sweet potato . Rub into it as much t ﬂour as will make it like bread . Add spice and sugar o

of . your taste, with a spoonful yeast When it has risen o f to well work in a piece butter . Bake it in small rolls, be eaten hot with butter .

COUCHE COUCHE Make a paste as you make for corn bread by the above receipt . Sweeten it with sugar . Instead of putting it in ou to a pan , y grease a pot with lard , and as the paste cooks

off . D o the side of the pot , you scrape it with a spoon that ﬁ ve or six times , until all your paste is cooked . It is de l iciou s f for breakfast with co fee . I he Southern children are very fond o f it with milk .

GRAHAM WH EAT LET S

of on e of One pint Graham ﬂour, nearly quart boiling water or milk, and one teaspoonful of salt . Scald the ﬂour, when you have salted it, into as soft dough as you can handle . Roll it nearly an inch thick , cut in round cakes , lay upon a buttered tin or pan , and bake them in the hottest h eatl ets oven you can get ready . The lightness of the w de a on pends upon the degree o f he t . Some cooks spread them

- a hot tin , and set this upon a red hot stove . Properly 7 1 C ooking in Ol d C re o le Days

f o scalded and cooked they are light as pu fs , and very g od , otherwi se they are ﬂat and tough . Split and butter while

h ot. PANCAKES

! . Ingredients eggs , ﬂour, milk and salt Beat the eggs T o ne well in a basin . every egg add o dessertspoonful of

on e o f to . ﬂour, teacupful milk and salt taste Mix these for to a ﬁne batter, then let stand four hours in a cool

- h ot. of place . Have frying pan very Put in a piece but of ter the size o f a walnut . Put in half a teacupful the

to . batter, and fry a light, nice brown Roll and serve while h ot with sugar and lemon . AUNT SUE, S. C.

PANCAKES

of two o f Three eggs, a half pint milk , tablespoonfuls

ﬂour . Mix eggs and ﬂour ; add milk , salt and nutmeg.

Fry a tablespoonful at a time in h ot lard .

D E S S E RT S

CREAM A LA CELESTINE

of on e of on e Six yolks eggs , white egg, pound Menier two of one of chocolate, cupfuls sugar, quart cream , one pint

o f . . o f milk Flavor with vanilla Beat the yolks eggs , add

o f one . the white , and sugar, and beat all ﬁrm Then add the cream , stirring slowly until well mixed . Let the milk to come a boil and add the chocolate . When well mixed ,

to . add it the eggs , sugar, etc . Stir gently, strain Allow to it cool and then freeze . 7 2 C o oking in Ol d C re ole Days

MANCHESTER ICE-CREAM

one- Four eggs , whites and yolks , one pint of cream , half

o f . pint milk , two cupfuls of sugar Mix the sugar , cream and

- l . milk together, and stir in the wel beaten eggs Put all in the freezer and turn for twenty minutes without stopping .

. Then put in a mold , and pack in ice until wanted

FLOATING ISLAND

. va One quart o f milk . Sugar to taste Flavor with two nilla . Yolks of seven eggs , well beaten , and whites, all beaten together ; add to milk . Stir gently over a slow f ow ﬁre. Beat well the whites o ﬁve eggs ; add very little p on dered sugar . Take the beaten eggs by spoonfuls and put top of your boiling milk ! before you make your cream ) . Turn over every spoonful o f egg on the milk for two o r n three minutes . Put them o a Sieve to drip on a very x clean cloth in the ice b o .

HARD CUSTARD

to . One quart of milk . Sugar taste A piece of vanilla bean . Let your milk come to a boil ; take it Off the ﬁre for

- or . three four minutes Add ﬁve well beaten eggs . Add t them gradually o the milk . Pour it in a mold in which ou - y have put caramel , and place that in a bain Marie

! double saucepan) in the oven for twenty minutes . Let it

b ox out . get cold in the ice , and turn when wanted —LE N IE PENI O N. SOFT CUSTARD

of Same proportions . Seven yolks eggs and two whites . on Add to warm milk , and put it a slow ﬁre, stirring it all

th e or . Do no time for ﬁve ten minutes t burn it . — LEONIE PENI N. 73

C ook ing in Ol d C re ole Days

- o f a half pounds of sugar, three quarters a pound of ﬂour, three- quarters of a pound of bread crumbs ! soaked in one on e half pint of milk) , ten eggs, apple ! chopped ) , a quarter o f on e of a pound candied peel , ounce of bitter almonds , on e ounce of sweet almonds . Boil gently for ten hours ,

. - rm. and serve with brandy sauce E. 5 , Wa

PORCUPINE PUDDING

Take six good apples . Peel and core them . Make a

little syrup with sugar and water . Let your apples cook

in that syrup , roasting them . When the apples are soft ,

out . take them , put them in a ﬂat dish Let your syrup

thicken a bit, pour it over the apples, and let them get cool . f Beat the whites of two or three eggs sti f . Put it over the

apples , shaping it in the form of a pudding . Stick in it all

over bleached almonds . Let it brown in the oven . —Mrss C S. . BANKS,

MERINGUE PUDDING

o f of One pint stale bread crumbs, one quart milk , ou t nearly one teacupful of sugar , three eggs , leaving the h white o f one for the meringue . Season the pudding wit ne the grated rind of o lemon . Mix all together and bake until you can put the handle o f a teaspoon in and it comes out clean . Then cover the pudding with some preserves . Make your meringue of the one white of egg and teacupful o f sugar . Spread in on top of the preserves, and put in the Y re stove until it is lightly browned . ou may double the c i e pt if more is wanted .

MONKEY PUDDING

Take about half a loaf of stale bread . Let it soak in nice milk ! as much as you would put for a bread pudding) 75 C o oking in Ol d C re ole Days

s everal hours . Add a little cream to it . Put in three of heaping spoonfuls brown sugar , two heaping spoonfuls

of powdered cinnamon, a few stoned raisins . Cook in the

oven with a slow ﬁre until it looks like an old monkey . ff Serve with a sti sugar and butter sauce, ﬂavored with a

i e l e . l ttle CELESTI NE EUSTI S.

PLAI N RICE PUDDING

on e- of One and a half quarts of milk, half cupful - rice, three fourths of a cupful of sugar ; dessertspoonful of

. as butter Wash your rice well . Put much milk as the dish you wish to bake your pudding in will hold , together with the rice . Allow it to boil , and as the milk cooks away , keep adding more until all is used ; then add sugar and butter, and bake until brown . When your pudding is baking and off the crust forms, skim it each time for ﬁve or six times before allowing it to ﬁnally form and remain . This is important . CORN PUDDIN G f Take six ears o corn . Boil and grate them ; add a o f spoonful sugar, pinch of salt, a spoonful of cream, four yolks of eggs and the four whites , well whipped up . Mix

. an d well Put in a buttered dish , bake for half an hour

ou for soufﬂé . in rather warm oven , as y would a

COR N PUDDING

o f Cut six ears soft corn from the cob, making several T o cuts in each grain , and scrape the milk from the cob . o f this add one egg, well beaten , one tablespoonful sugar ,

one of butter and one teaspoonful of salt . Mix all well

together and bake for half an hour .

L DE E Vir inia. AU RDAL , g 76 C ookin g in Ol d C re ole Days

CUSTARD BREAD

Take three pie plates . In the ﬁrst one put some sweet milk with a spoonful of powdered cinnamon ; in the second on e one beat up four eggs , whites and yolks ; in the third put s o f some brown sugar . Cut ome slices stale bread, dip

them ﬁrst in the milk , then in the eggs , and roll them in the

brown sugar and fry them in some butter until brown . Y ou Put those that are cooked in a hot plate . can only

cook three at a time in a saucepan . Keep them hot . Sprinkle a little powdered sugar and serve with a wine

for . sauce dessert E O 5 , C. UNCL J HN,

MINCE-MEAT

of one o f one One pound raisins, pound currants, pound o f one two sugar, pound of suet, all chopped ; pounds of two of n apples, raw , and chopped ; ounces ca died orange and lemon peel ; the juice of one lemon ; on e pint o f brandy or rum WI I . E . S . LL S

CANDIED ORANGE

Peel and quarter the oranges . Make a syrup in the pro o f t one o f portion of one pound sugar o pint water . Then take it from the ﬁre and dip th e quarters of orange in the

u . on syr p Let them drain a ﬁne sieve placed over a platter, s o that the syrup will not be wasted . Let them drain until

cool , when the sugar will crystallize .

H OW T O MAKE A CARAMEL

of of on e Four tablespoonfuls any kind sugar, table

of . spoonful cold water Let it cook until it candies , more or ou less according to color . If y wish it to color a pud th e mold ding, put it in ﬁrst , and then pour in your pud 77 Cooking in Ol d C re ole Days

ding. Another way is to add it drop by drop to a cream

t . or cus ard Or, if you like better, pour it over your pud

ding Or cake .

FRUIT I N IT S OWN JUICE Prepare your fruit for eating by removing the stones and paring if necessary ; put it in a closed vessel and expose or on e it to a scalding heat, either in a dry oven ﬁlled with water, taking care not to let it burn . Fill up jars and seal them carefully . Keep them in a cool place . Stone jars are the best . The fruit spoils if exposed to the air .

PRALINE COCOANUT T O ake a fresh cocoanut , break it pen and grate it care

fully . Take a cupful to two cupfuls and a half of the best white sugar . Put the sugar in a nice clean saucepan to cook until it candies . Add the cocoanut . Let it cook a on moment , turning it all the time . Put it in pats a large china dish or a piece o f marble . Do the same with brown

sugar. PRALINE PECANS

u fu l o f . Take a . c p well and carefully peeled pecan nuts

Take two cupfuls of brown sugar and half a cupful of water .

Let simmer on the ﬁre until it candies . Put in the nuts .

Stir them all the time until the sugar adheres to the nuts . i n Be careful it does not burn . Put a plate to cool and

serve . Do the same thing, but do not turn it . Put them a spoonful at a time in small paper boxes or in pats on a

dish . The same thing can be done with peanuts . Pea

nuts powdered and added to ice cream is delicious .

! Sold on th e street corners in N ew Orl eans. )

78 C ooking in Ol d C re ole Days

CAKE S

GINGERBREAD

of - o f on e One quart ﬂour, one half pound butter, ﬁ ve on e- quarter pound of sugar, eggs, half pint of mo

- one o f one . lasses, half cupful ginger, teaspoonful of soda

LOAF OF GINGERBREAD

A loaf of gingerbread is good enough to make on e quite indifferent to the fact that it is by no means an T o on e ! of economy . make work a cupful butter until creamy , then mix with it a cupful of brown sugar . Sepa o f rate the whites and yolks four eggs , and beat both until

light, frothing the whites . Stir the eggs with the butter and sugar and add a cupful of sour cream mixed with a ” Of cupful mola sses . Before putting the molasses and cream ' two together, add to the cream teaspoonfuls of soda , dis i o f solved n a little warm water . Measure four cupfuls ﬂour and mix with it a teaspoonful of salt and a teaspoonful

of yellow ginger . Add this to the batter . Do all the mix

ing as quickly and lightly as possible . Bake thirty minutes

with moderate heat .

MOLASSES GINGERBREAD The molasses must be the unreﬁned black New Orleans

molasses and the sugar must be the coarse, dark, unreﬁned

. on e Of brown sugar One cupful of butter ! melted) , cupful on e o f two molasses , cupful brown sugar, eggs well beaten , o f o f on e two cupfuls ﬂour, one tablespoonful ginger, tea n - spoo ful cinnamon , one half teaspoonful baking soda . Beat this mixture well and drop it in spoonfuls on a baking sheet 79 C ooking in Ol d C re o le Days

or roasting pan . Spread it with a wooden spoon very thin and evenly over the pan and bake ten or twelve minutes in a moderate oven . Let it cool a little after it is drawn from the oven, and then cut it up into any desired shapes . — MRs RI GH M. . B D A DROP PUFFS

Delicious for dessert . Served with powdered sugar or wine sauce . Four ounces of ﬂour , two eggs , dessertspoon of of o f ful white sugar, pinch salt, sherry glass brandy, a of good tumbler sweet milk , a teaspoonful of orange ﬂower water . Beat it all up thoroughly . Drop a spoonful in plenty of very hot lard . Turn them over until they are a golden color . Sprinkle a little powdered sugar over them and serve very hot .

GINGER CAKE

o f one of One teacupful molasses , teacupful brown sugar , one o f of teacupful butter, three teacupfuls ﬂour ! sifted ) , on e o f on e three eggs, tablespoonful powdered ginger, tea

f . spoonful o soda . Rub sugar and butter well together Beat eggs well and add . Then stir in molasses , ginger, ﬂour, and

or . last , the soda , dissolved in a little milk water Bake

. — I quickly AL SON.

STRAWBERRY SHORTCAKE

T wo of tw o one of cupfuls ﬂour ! sifted ) , eggs , cupful of or sugar, a good half cupful sour milk cream ; the latter is

f . best . Mix half a teaspoonful o baking soda in the cream to Use a steel fork . Beat the butter a cream ; add the sugar on e ﬁrst, then eggs , at a time, and milk , and ﬂour alter natel y . Cook in buttered pie plates in the oven like corn bread; Put confection between . 80

U D E T R EH N P T T ION J U T B O E N EW N RS E MERANCE O F T H E S A LAN A , S A V ORL EANS

C ooking in Ol d C re o le Days

LEONIE PENI N ’ S DRY CAKE

One cupful sugar, one cupful ﬂour , dried in the oven and sifted , one cupful butter, three eggs . Beat all together in a bowl very thoroughly . Butter two pie plates , and put a little ﬂour in the plates, then put in your cake and bake in the oven .

The same receipt can be used for chocolate cake, put on e ting all the dough in pie plate, and when once it is off cooked and cooled , you slice in half and butter with apricot jam , and put the slices together again with a nice chocolate icing on top .

DELICATE CAKE

of two of One teacupful melted butter, teacupfuls pul v riz to on e e ed sugar . Stir butter and sugar a cream ; add ! of on e o f teacupful sweet milk, tablespoonful vanilla, and f the whites o f eight eggs beaten to a sti f froth . Lastly add three teacupfuls of sifted ﬂour ! measured before sift ing) and two even teaspoonfuls of baking powder, thor t oughly mixed with the ﬂour . This makes wo cakes . Do not move the pans while baking until the cake is nearly done, too on on e unless it should bake much side, when it must s be carefully done to avoid its falling . The eight yolk make a nice cake by adding two whole eggs and beating all together . Then take the same ingredients as above, and when poured in the pan stick full of nicely shred citron .

COMMON CAKE

of of of One cupful butter, two sugar, three ﬂour, four

eggs , a little milk , soda and nutmeg. Beat the sugar and

o . butter t gether Beat the eggs separately, and mix with

sugar and butter and add the ﬂour. 8 2 C ooking in Ol d C re o le Days

SMALL SPONGE CAKE

on e- o f one- n Five eggs , half pound sugar, half pou d

of ﬂour . INDIAN SPONGE CAKE

of one- of One cupful Indian meal , half cupful ﬂour, two o f two of one cupfuls milk , tablespoonfuls molasses, tea

spoonful o f saleratus .

GINGERBREAD

of on e o f One cupful butter, cupful brown sugar , four of one eggs, one cupful sour cream , cupful of molasses , on e of teaspoonful soda, dissolved in warm water, four of o f two of cupfuls ﬂour, teaspoonful salt, teaspoonfuls yellow ginger. FLAT COOKIES

o f on e o f on e One quart ﬂour, pint sweet milk, table o f on e- one- spoonful butter, half teaspoonful of salt, half

- of on e of . teaspoonful baking powder, half cupful sugar

Rub butter thoroughly with hands ; add sugar, milk and

. ou t on ﬂour Mix well with fork . Roll , cut with tumbler

ﬂat board . Handle very lightly . Bake twenty minutes .

LEONIE ’ S CAKE

one One cupful sugar , cupful ﬂour dried in the oven and sifted , one cupful nice fresh butter, three eggs, whites and

yolks . Put everything together in a bowl and beat it on e - thoroughly . Put it in or two well buttered pie plates , according to the thickness vou wish to make your cakes . Sprinkle a little ﬂour over your buttered pie plates before ou putting in your cake . Bake in the oven . If y wish to re make a chocolate cake, make your cake ! by the above 83 C ooking in Ol d C re o le Days

cei t s p) an inch and a half thick , lice it in half, butter it or on with apricot paste jam , then put top a nice layer of ! o f chocolate cream , as follows Take three tablets Mail ’ f lard s best chocolate . Boil a cupful o milk and let the

chocolate dissolve in it , stirring it over a slow ﬁre for a on f quarter of an hour. Then spread top o your cake while

h ot. SWEET WAFERS

on e two o f Six eggs, pint of ﬂour, ounces melted butter, on e o f and a half cupfuls of powdered sugar, one cupful

one of . milk , teaspoonful nutmeg Beat whites and yolks

ff . separately and very sti Rub the sugar and butter together,

and work in first the yolks , then the milk , then the flour - r f and whites . Bake in well buttered wafer o wa fle irons

very quickly, browning as little as possible . Roll them

while hot upon a smooth , round stick not larger than your ou t es little ﬁnger, slipping it carefully when the wafer tak the right shape.

MOLASSES CAKE

A cupful of sugar and a cupful of butter stirred to a of of cream, then a cupful molasses and a cupful milk with of a teaspoonful baking powder, ﬁve eggs beaten very light ! then stir in the other ingredients alternately with a cupful o f

ﬂour. Stir the batter well and bake it quickly .

SWEET WAFERS

of on e on e One pint ﬂour, teacupful of sugar , tablespoon o f one ful butter, three eggs , separated and well beaten , of half cupful milk . Mix the batter the same as for cake and ke - ba in wafer irons. 84

Cooking in Ol d C re ole Days

ART AN D S CI EN CE OF SALAD MAKING

T No careless hand can make a perfect salad . o be N wh o sure, anette, the cook, tosses in this, adds a Sprink ling of that and pours in oil and vinegar with seeming to abandon, sends the table preparations ﬁt for the gods, wh o But Nanette, in her line, is an artist has acquired

the simple stroke that produces the masterpiece . Occasion ally there arises a genius in lay ranks who snaps her ﬁnger ’ at experience and arrives at Nanette s degree of skill b y

inspiration . But geniuses are few . I n. no other dish is there so wide range for individu f its ality o treatment as in the salad . No single process in

preparation is unimportant . The meats and vegetables

must not be too coarse nor too ﬁne . In making them ready the chopping knife and meat grinder must have n o

part . Only the crispest , freshest vegetables should enter of into its composition . Much depends upon the quality

il to . the vinegar and o . Sharp vinegar is be avoided If n that o hand is too sour weaken it with a little water . A

little lemon juice may be used if greater acidity is wanted . of A ready supply herb Vinegars , such as tarragon , nas tu rtium , chervil , celery and mint, add greatly to the possi il a b ities in ﬂavoring. The wise sal d maker has at her ﬁnger tips a knowledge of the adaptability o f the different

Vinegars, ﬂavors and foundation materials . The tarragon

for . flavor, instance, is delicious with meats and fish The n to ve e asturtium , most persons think , lends itself best g ob tables . Mint vinegar has its votaries, but many people ect to j its flavor , excepting with lamb, chicken and certain

green salads . Celery vinegar combines well with nearly all salads . s Chopped parsley, chervil , sheep sorrel , nasturtium 86 C ooking in Ol d C re ole Days

! leaves , ﬂowers and stems) , and other herbs chopped ﬁne and sprinkled over the salad or incorporated with the dress m ing , ring delightful changes . At a certain far house this W s summer tender intergreen leaves from the wood , used

moderately in various salads, puzzled the g uests with their

delicate fragrance . too of Garlic, at which many persons shudder, because

malodorous memories , lacks the respect in this country that

. e its character merits Used properly, garlic is mor deli o cate and delicious in ﬂavor than onion . It is the misuse f f r the vegetable that has gained o it its undeserved notoriety . to of The French know a T its worth . A single clove f r or two o . garlic, at the most , are enough a large mixture It is a good idea to rub the bowl in which the salad is dressed or the dish in which the dressing is made with a

of . to halved clove garlic It is still better , some think , saturate a piece o f bread with its odor and in turn to use

to . An the bread , transfixed with a fork , wipe the dish other way of obtaining the flavor is to chop a clove or two o f garlic to infinitesimal fineness and mix it with the other

ingredients . to If onion is used , it is always preferable employ the

n ot . juice and the pulp By some cooks the onion is grated , but even this method leaves tangible evidences of the most odorou s of vegetables to catch in the teeth and retain the T o ﬂavor in the mouth . some persons, onions are hurtful , T but they are seldom injured by the juice . o obtain the two on a th e juice, cut the onion in , hold it fork over mix of or o ture, and with the back a silver knife sp on, press

the cut Sl de until the juice drops . S With such materials as lobsters, crabs , hrimps, Jeru for salem artichokes , etc . , which are liked their individual or ﬂavors, it is a mistake to use ﬂavored Vinegars , onions for me garlic . Such pungent additions are accompani nts 3 7 Cooking in Ol d C re o le Days

. salad of neutral hue, which need embellishment With all

preparations , except with the sweet kind , of course, capers and chopped olives and pickles in right proportion may al

ways be used . T o blend the various ﬂavors so that no one will be over ’ shadowed by another is the acme of the salad maker s ef C fort . old cooked vegetables , such as potatoes, beets, car w n ot rots , string beans, celery knobs, etc . , ill absorb the

dressing and its ﬂavors . To Obtain the best results most cooked vegetables should be covered with a French dress

ing while they are h ot and should be left to cool in it .

When they are cold they should be thoroughly drained . or Then they may be dressed with mayonnaise, French h ot boiled dressing, as preferred . German cooks marinate

cabbage in this way for a cabbage salad . With the mari or nate may be placed an onion two, sliced ; some celery,

or . parsley, chervil other herb The French dressing may

be made with any preferred vinegar . to Utensils, ingredients and everything pertaining the

work should be chilled at the start . The lettuce, cress or

other green, as well as any raw vegetable, such as celery or - radishes, Should stand in ice water for an hour before

they are wanted . Great care should be taken , however, when they come from the bath to dry them thoroughly . Drops of water will carry with them to the bottom of the dish an oily liquid that will detract greatly from the dainty t appearance of the salad . In order o dry the vegetables n s drain and shake them in a colander, and the tos them

about in a large, dry towel . Stirring the ingredients together is th e unpardonable

sin of the art . By that means are produced the strange con ! ” coctions which are miscalled salads . A light tossing with a fork in each hand will properly distribute the ele n nd s e me ts a easonings and leave a light , crisp mixtur , 88

C ooking in Ol d C re ole Days

k c ma e a substantial recepta le . Hollowed out cucumbers , al l beets, tomatoes, green and red peppers and apples may do duty as cups .

A solid , prettily shaped cabbage with the centre cut ou t makes an ornamental bowl for cabbage salad . The cabbage should stand on a bed of curly parsley or other

green . Ribbons of red peppers may edge the platter . The a s lad should be heaped in the cabbage . It may be gar n ish ed f simply with stu fed olives and tiny gherkins .

Sweet peppers are too little known , although they are a g ining in popularity with Americans . With many vege

tables they are very delicious . The seeds and white inner pulp should be thoroughly removed ! these are the parts s r that bite) . Then cut the peppers into mall strips o dice . o f ve e The peppers may be used in salads cabbage, mixed g i o . tables potatoes , beets, beans, etc ; tomatoes and various

other mixtures . — Salad dressings are practically three mayonnaise,

French and cooked dressing. Whipped cream is an im provement in most cases to the mayonnaise and boiled

kinds . It should be added just before the dressing is used . In the summer the bowl in which mayonnaise is made

should stand in ice while the process is going on . The ol d time- devouring way by dropping the Oil with on e hand and stirring with the other has happily been obviated by va riou s oil dropping inventions which have reduced the work to t a minimum . The housekeeper is often puzzled o know what to do i f the quantity o f mayonnaise needed is too for -one f for much raw yolk and not su ﬁcient two. By mashing a hard cooked yolk with the raw yolk the problem of will be settled . The process making is the same as if

both yolks had been uncooked . They are ﬁrst seasoned with

salt and white pepper and mustard if it is wanted . Then the h e oil is dropped slowly while t beating continues rapidly . 90 C ooking in Ol d C re ole Days

As the eggs begin to thicken drops of vinegar or lemon

juice are added from time to time . For French dressing four spoonfuls of oil to one of vinegar instead of the usual three to on e formula is liked

best by most persons . o f old In the making French dressing the saying , A to spendthrift for oil , a miser for vinegar and a madman ” stir, is an infallible guide . If this dressing is made at oil the table the , vinegar , seasonings and salad should be n Of placed before the o e upon whom that ﬁce falls . After the dressing is made a layer of the salad should be re moved from the plate and placed on a cold salad plate

ready at hand . Dressing should be sprinkled over this and

thoroughly incorporated with it . Then another layer should

on . be added , and so until all the salad is dressed Cooked dressing may be made and kept for such emer ’

encies . g as the cook s day out , unexpected company, etc T o make such a dressing put the yolks of four eggs into

the upper part o f a double boiler and beat them thoroughly .

of oil . Add four tablespoonfuls , stirring constantly Then i O ncorporate four tablespoonfuls f vinegar . Set the dish

into hot water over the ﬁre and cook . When the mix. ture begins to thicken remove it at once from the ﬁre and

beat until it is cold . Then add slowly four more table of oil one of s spoonfuls , tablespoonful sugar, a tea poonful

o f salt and on e or two tablespoonfuls o f French mustard .

Just before using it add one cupful of whipped cream . Tomato and aspic jelly both make delightful aecom animen t l p for salads . The jelly may be mo ded in a ring and the salad served in the centre ; it may be molded in or a solid form and the salad arranged around it , it may

be broken into sparkling cubes and heaped about the salad . T o make aspic jelly soak two ounces of jelly in a cup to on e ful o f cold water for ﬁfteen minutes . Then add it 9 1 Cooking in Ol d Creole Days

quart o f clear meat stock or one quart of water tinctured

with beef extract . Flavor with white vinegar and lemon of juice until it is properly tart . Put in a couple blades of

mace, some cloves and a bay leaf and stir over the ﬁre o f until the gelatine is dissolved . To the beaten whites

two eggs add a little cold water and the juice o f a lemon . Stir them into the jelly and stir and boil for a minute or to two . An egg beater is convenient use in beating the o f eggs into the jelly . Draw the saucepan to a cool part

the stove and let it stand ﬁ ve or ten minutes . Then strain

th e . T o jelly through a jelly bag color the jelly, the de

vices mentioned for mayonnaise may be employed . of of Tomato jelly requires a can tomatoes , an ounce on e- gelatine and seasonings . Soak the gelatine in half cup

ful of cold water for half an hour . Meanwhile cook the to matoes with three tablespoonfuls of vinegar, a teaspoonful

of o f . of salt, a tablespoonful sugar and a dash paprika Then add the gelatine to the tomatoes and stir until it is

dissolved . Strain the jelly through a jelly bag and mold . The tomato jelly may be served on a bed o f lettuce with a mayonnaise, as has already been suggested . Apple cups may be ﬁlled with a salad of mushrooms ff n few ! cooked) , stu ed olives ! sliced) , uts and a delicate tips of celery . Moisten the mixture with French dressing and top off with mayonnaise and whipped cream . This

salad may be served with lettuce instead o f in apples .

Shredded red pepper , stoned olives and cabbage make

a delicious combination . SALA SAUC D E . of two e Rub with a fork the yolks ggs , boiled hard ,

and cold , with fresh mustard and a little sauce ; four table of il t ne of spoonfuls o o o and a half vinegar, mixing into

. a cream . Chop ﬁne chervil , tarragon , and use with lettuce T . he sauce should be kept separate until needed . 02

C ooking in Ol d C re ole D ays

not ground) , throwing the vegetables in it , salted, and or covered . Dry vegetables, those under ground , are cooked

not . in cold water, and salted at first, but when half cooked ou too e If y salt your vegetables soon they becom hard, and f are di ficult to cook . The flesh of fowls should be wiped with a dry or moist cloth , as need be, and never washed under a spigot , as that

destroys the individual taste of the fowl .

Wash your green vegetables quickly in plenty of water . Do not let them soak . The great secret of a good cuisine is to leave to every to dish its own particular taste, and not put indiscreetly or mace, cloves and aromatic herbs in everything, they will all taste alike . ou t o f Salting draws the nutritive part fish , as it does of meats , and salt fish should be used as a relish only . i of o f The Ju ces fish , especially shellfish , are an alkaline or nature, and this renders lemon juice vinegar desirable as a neutralizing agency . of oil Only use the best sweet , and the sweetest , freshest ou butter and lard, and the very best of everything. If y o f have any doubts about any article food throw it away, and do not risk making any one ill ! That is poor economy ! Do not or throw away the bones of turkey chicken . Crack them and let them boil for two or three hours in o f a little water. Put in also any nice bits fowl that are T o left, particularly the wings . this add any soup stock ou or or ou y have, and with a little barley rice sago y have aro a nourishing soup . Season with salt, pepper and any - ou o matic herbs any vegetable y have n hand . of With a remnant cold chicken , cut it up with celery

and cold potatoes , season with French dressing, ornament t with let uce leaves .

Botanically, potatoes belong to the same poisonous order 94 Cooking in Ol d Cre ole Days

as tomatoes and contain an acid juice which is unpleasant to

the taste and renders them indigestible . This lies in and

. u near the Skin of the potato It is drawn o t by heat . When

potatoes are baked , it escapes in the steam , if they are

opened at once , and when they are boiled it is absorbed in

the water . It is best to peel the potatoes before using them ,

and to let them soak in cold water, covered by the water .

New potatoes are watery, as the starch is not fully devel

oped . They have a very thin Skin , which may be rubbed

Off or brushed Off . Put in a ﬂat dish what remains of hominy from break it o f fast, smooth ﬂat with the back a spoon an inch thick ; cut it up in diamond shape when cold two or three inches n square . Salt and fry in hot lard . Do ot let it stand .

Serve h ot. T o t any rice left over add sweet milk o soften it .

Let it stand . Add enough ﬂour to keep it together . Salt .

Let it stand half an hour . Roll a spoonful of it in your

h ot . hands , ﬂatten it down and fry in lard Some persons

add eggs . OKRA HIBI SCUS

ex e De Brazza, the great explorer, told me that in his p dition s into Africa whenever they s topped for a few months s the ﬁrst thing they planted was Okra Hibiscu , because they considered that vegetable to be so whol esome and

nutritious . BREAD

not . Eat your bread stale and fresh Have it sliced,

dried in the oven and then toasted .

GUMBO FILET

Gumbo Filet is a powder prepared by the I ndians . When the l eaves of the sassafras trees are very tender and 9 5 Cooking in Ol d Cre o le Days

green , they gather them , dry them , pound them and put t hem in bags . This powder may be found at Park ’ ’

. Y . or t. Tilford s , N , at Solari s Grocery Store, Chartres S ,

New Orleans . GOFI O

Goﬁ o is some corn meal dried in the oven and salted .

It is an Indian preparation . They put it in a bag and eat

on or o ou t . it their tramps, when they g hunting

HOW TO DESTROY FLI ES T o on e pint o f milk add a quarter of a pound of raw

sugar and two ounces of ground pepper . Simmer them to gether for eight or ten minutes and place it about in shal low dishes . The ﬂies attack it greedily and in a few mo ments are suffocated . By this method kitchens may be of kept clear of ﬂies all summer without the danger poison .

FOOD S THAT STEAL FLAVOR S It is generally understood that butter and milk can be to or tainted by proximity decided ﬂavors odors, but not that all foods absorb and give ou t more or less o f their

individual aroma . Vegetables of the plainest varieties are the worst of

fenders , not only onion and leek and the more pronounced ones , but the tame little beet and the saucy radish . The subtle ways of these demure ones is something that households should guard against , but do not . ! do so of We get tired boarding, exclaims a woman who has gone back and forth from hotels to private board ing houses , but she does not realize the underlying reason . The real reason is that the foods are all kept in the same place and all cooked in the same atmosphere, double f an occasion or the ﬂavor exch ge that takes place .

_ 96

C ook ing in Ol d Cre ole Days

? come My wife is ill in bed ; the cook left us yesterday, and there isn’t a thing to eat in the house ! ” Having Yankee blood and French blood in my veins , I was not to be downed by such trifling obstacles , but accepted the situation at once ! and answered ! If you will allow me to go into your kitchen and get some one to help me I will see what can ” ! ’ be done . The answer was , We ll all help you , for we are ’ very hungry and it is past two o clock . I looked into the larder, and there I found a desperate looking bone, the rem nant of a leg of mutton , with two cold potatoes . I cut into small pieces what I could find of meat ; I did the same with the potatoes, and put them to simmer with a little cold water, salt and pepper . I sent the boys to the garden to see what they could find . They soon came back with fresh tomatoes , lettuce, parsley and onions . I added a little par sley and onion to my Irish stew ; then I boiled six eggs for t wenty minutes ; made a nice white sauce with cream , butter an d a little flour, flavoring it with a piece of onion , parsley , cayenne pepper ; cut the eggs in half, put them in the cream o sauce in a double saucepan until ready to serve, des eufs l fi h r man a Morel l e. s e w o A in Deauville, France , taught a ‘ me how to make this dish . Then I sliced some tomatoes , salted and peppered and powdered them with crumbs of toasted bread , fried them in hot butter, put them in a hot dish , poached six eggs and put them on the fried tomatoes , made some dip toast , a nice French dressing for the lettuce ff and some good hot co ee, and in an hour and a half we all sat down to lunch in jolly spirits . The lady o f the house paid me the compliment to say it was the best tasting break fast ever had in her house . The English butler recognized me later in life as the l h own ou t ady w o always cooked her lunch when she went . ! A lady once said to my dear mother ! I wish you to ou would lend me your cookery book , I want ask y 98 C ooking in Ol d C reo le Days

t ou o dinner and treat y to something good . The answer ! Y ou was , had better dine with me, as I know my book ” by heart .

H OW TO MAKE A GOOD SOUP WI TH WHAT REMAI NS FROM BREAKFAST

o f Take the remnants a beefsteak, cut away all fat , cut

the meat in small pieces , put them in a saucepan , cover on your meat with cold water, put the lid half way , let it

simmer and draw half an hour, add to it two or three

spoonfuls of cooked tomatoes ; cut a cooked potato, a

carrot sliced in two , half an onion , a small piece of cab bage, parsley , salt and pepper . Let it simmer two hours . If you ﬁnd it short add a little cold water with your vege

tables and you will have a delicious soup . MON REPO S .

If this modest work can be of use to young house keepers , I shall feel rewarded for the pains I have taken in

putting it together.

f f) . I. o

99 Cooking in Ol d C reole Days

PUNCH

of on e Put in the rind three lemons, pour wineglassful i o f of Jama ca rum, two wineglassfuls brandy, three table of of spoonfuls loaf sugar , a tumblerful and a half water

on on e o f . ice . Pour bottle champagne — MRS GENI PH I I P . . EU A LL S

CLARET PUNCH

of a Slice three lemons , pour over one wineglassful J of maica rum , one glassful strong green tea , sugar to taste, o o f one bottle of claret . Put in tw or three cupfuls well

l ce° pounded — E E I E C L ST N EUSTI S .

BUCKNER PUNCH

For each quart bottle of champagne mix and add one on e wineglassful of good brandy, wineglassful of good on e of one rum , wineglassful good arrack , wineglassful of on e of good kirsh, one wineglassful good anisette, wine of one e o f glassful good Maraschino, win glassful good Cu t two o f of acoa , slices ripe pineapple, two slices sweet

on e . orange, toddy glassful of pulverized sugar At ﬁrst put in a small quantity of ice, and later ﬁll the bowl with large lumps of ice . It should stand three hours before using . — B . N . The foregoing concoction would , I think , be the death or destruction of any one who sipped it . I should advise two quarts of water to each quart of punch !

EGGNOGG

Yolks of thirty-two eggs and thirty-two heaping table

of . to spoonfuls powdered sugar , beaten to a froth Add this on e and a half pints of brandy and one-half pint of 10C?

LA CUI SI N E CR EOLE

A L’ USAGE D ES PET I T S MEN AGES UN PIT I D IN E CREOLE AU! DELEGUES N E DE EW ORLEANS PRESS CLO , LA LEAGUE E I NTERNATIONAL DE PRESSE CLO ,

’ ’

l Ath en eu m l en coi nu re et . Dans , coté g Clio St Charles ,

SA MI DI 1 EVR I ER CI LA LA 18 8 , 9 F , 9 ,

Dans la Ville Nouvelle Orleans , Louisiane,

Coté neuf heurs du Soir .

H a ill on s cassés va ut Mi s eux pas e tout n u. ’ Absinthe et n isette.

an s l a Lo s an e tro b on ca as D ui i yé uvé l , . m D es u itres o e et a o a . H , Ch upiqu b b ul

Huitres Bayou Maringouin .

A ec un b on m o re ar ar S e v go b p p é p ilvi , ‘ ie Sén s J amai s b ab l llé mo passé mo l a v . ’ ﬁlé crébich es. Gombo , Bisque

’ Piti Legumes avec di Sel .

Qu an d m o té gamin Mo mama mo n di i , ’ Co b ul lion o sson p i , Mo ar on g c , ’ ’ u n C est q i chose qui b o .

Cou rtb ou llion Patassa .

A A RN 1 — e et ie H UT S UTE ES 878 Calv t C .

R avet j amai s gagn in rai son devont poul e.

Paté Poule .

’ i f b eta Créb ch es c est o uti il .

' Créb ich es Bouilli .

’ i u b an s so ch a i er Chaqu n conna n ca q a pé o uilli d ud e. — Haricots Rouge Riz .

- ULI EN 18 6 a et et Cie. ST. J 7 C lv 1 02

T H E CA LLAS G I R L

Y e vant e e ra n é y T pi , Ma s o uté un fOI s Caoene i g , man ui c ose ui Et vo u s gé q h q ﬁn. n Fricassé Caoe e .

’ as marr c en avec sa c s e Fo p é hi u i s s. h u r es Jambalaya T c o iss .

Dinner Creole li pas compl et San s t coc on a t pi i h di l i .

Cochon maron farci roti ,

Salade doucet et chicore .

Un z ozo dans mo l a ma n au i , v t . Mi e ux q ue pl ei n z ozo q ua pé Vol tIgé dan s bo i s. Cailles laurier en baguette

Cresson Bayou des Herbes .

AM PA N . M MM ET CI E. CH G E DE G. H U

’ La n on g i app e c est bitin qui b . Pacan s Mais tac tac, Pralines e ,

Pain Patates , La Cuite .

art l a ace art atea Qu i Gl . Qu i G u. mil atte Biscuit , Nestomac ,

’ Ziz n Pom cak Tante i e.

Y én a as S oco n i P a em n es p l qu i , Mai s n a onn e o s a ui n d v u c q a. ’ B an an s Z Oran e i . , g , Canne sucre, Mandar ne Café Créole noire ! ! Morning

a r f Ch tte G ille pai r di eu . l B ru o .

— a ier Cigarettes perique T p p mais . — Cigarettes Créole papier jaune.

an n a as c o a mont b o r e Qu d p h u l , é u iqu ; u an n a as b ourt ue mon te ca ri Q d p q , b ;

an n a as cab rI mon te am e. Q u d p , J b

’

et e . N . . C Designé execut par Geo . G Voitier, Steward O . P . 1 03

e oast o f th e r terra n Th y b i pi , B ut o nce taste Caoen e , _ A n d o u ta ste somet i n ich I S ﬁ y h g wh ne. Fricassee Caoen e ! Pig- skin)

’ Don t tie yo ur dogs with sausages. risses - Jambalaya T ch ou ! Rice and blood puddings) .

A Creol e din n er is n ot complete itt e s c l n Without a l l u k i g pig. f A runaway pig, stu fed and roasted .

Sweet salad with chickory . A bi rd in th e han d tter t an al l th e r s ﬂ n in th e oo s I s be h bi d yi g w d .

Snipes with laurel leaves en baguette .

Watercresses from Bayou des Herbes . — m AMPA G. H M m Co. CH GNE . u Lagn i appe is som ethin g very goo d ! a corruption of a Span i sh wo rd which mean s thro wn in a market b as ket over an d ab ove) .

Popcorn, Sugared pecans,

Sweet potato bread , Thick molasses . - T h e l ast dr a wn f r om th e pots i n th e s uga r h ou se b ef or e it tu r n s to s uga r .

A fo rt of an ice cream. A fo rt of a ec k u h u h pi e o f ca e.

Ice cream biscuit . Mulatto stomach ! gingerbread) . ’ Zizin e s Tante poundcake .

h ere are n o Ski enon ra es an d no ers mmons T p g p p i , ’ i o a t r I B ut we ll g ve y u wh t he e s .

s. Bananas , Oranges , Sugar cane, Mandarin Black Creole coffee ! ! Morning

fears ﬁ A si nged cat th e re.

B ru l o . — Cigarettes perique corn paper . — Creole cigarettes yellow paper .

en ou ave n o h orse ou r e a onke Wh y h , y id d y ; en o u ave n o on e o u rI de a oat Wh y h d k y, y g ;

en ou ave n o oat ou o on foot. Wh y h g , y g

Designed and executed by George G . Voitier, Steward

New Orleans Press Club . 1 05

LA CUIS IN E CREOLE A L’USAG E DES PETIT S MENAG ES

I — . GOMBO FILET Mettez dans une casserole une cuillerée de saindoux bien et a —l e u n frais une de farine l issez roussir brun doré , puis ’ tournez toujours j u squ a cc que votre roux devienne u n brun u n m et -l e doré . Coupez oignon en petits orceaux laissez u n en c frire . Coupez chapon ou une poule petits mor eaux ’ et — u s u a ce mettez les dans la casserole, remuez toujours j q ’

l e . l e que poulet brunisse Quand tout est d une jolie couleur , coupez une demi tranche de j ambon en petit s morceaux et u n et u m et faites frire en ajoutant piment vert rouge, sel ’ u m m poivre en gOu t. Ajoutez de i litre d eau bouillante et l e n laissez cuire pendant deux heures et demie . U quart ’ ’ d h eu re d h u itres avant de servir, ajoutez deux douzaines avec leur jus . Juste ou moment de servir , ajoutez une ﬁl et l e cuillerée a soupe de en tournant tout temps , mettez l e l e um l e m sur feu instant toujours en travaillant . Ne ettez h l et e n e e pas trop de , la cuill re doit pas tre trop pleine .

Servez tres chaud avec du riz sec . Ou peut mettre des ’ i r crevettes aulieu d h u t es pour changer .

— FEVI S II . GOMBO Répetez la meme preparation de volaille que pour l e ﬁ l et e Gombo , coupez quatre tomates crues dans une po le, ‘ — ajoutez y u n canne de févis ou une heure de févis frais — coupés en petites tranches faites tout revenir dans la poele avec une demie cuillerée de saindoux pendant une demi - heure en tournant tout l e temps que vous ajoutez au poulet et vous laissez l e tout mijoter sur u n petit feu une heure et demie du u n ou deux heures . Servez chaud avec riz sec dans plat se arem n p e t. o 7

’ A l Usage des P e tits Ménages

au heure a feu pas trop vif, passez les pommes de terre i Sl tam s, vous préférez , liez avec quelques cuillerées de -ﬁ n creme et versez sur des tranches de pain coupées tres .

POTAGE MARINIERE

’ Six u n Pour personnes, prenez litre d eau faites bouillir . ’ Dans l eau bouillante j etez u n oignon coupé en morceaux e que vous avez fait cuire a la po le, sans prendre couleur, s laissez bouillir cinq minutes , ajoutez deux livres de poi son ’ f et e e de di férentes sortes , bien propre tr s frais , venant d tre et m e- remen t péché si possible, salez laissez bouillir od pen dant quinze minutes , liez avec deux cuillerées de ayoli , u n laissez cuire deux minutes , liez de nouveau avec jaune ’ d Oeu fs ﬁl et C et u m m , de vinaigre ou itron orceau de beurre trés s cl e e frais , passez sur de simple tranches pain coupées tr s trés- ﬁn, servez chaud . — u m Ayoli . Dans mortier en marbre ou en bois pilez une ’ ’ ’ gousse d ail quand elle est bouillie ajoutez de l h u il e d olive en tournant toujours procedes comme pour la mayon - en naise, dont elle doit avoir la consistance, faites deux ou trois cuillerées et versez dans l e potage en remuant et e e tenir seulement au chaud . Le potage doit tre fait tr s ’ ’ minutieusement pas trop riche et n avoir pas l e goht d ail i li i x l est de c eu .

SOUPE A LA JULIENNE il Pour la julienne faut couper des carottes, navets ,

ﬁl ets . poireaux, céleri blanc en petits Ajouter des petits m - ﬂ eu rs u n orceaux de choux , des pois verts peu de persil hachez-les faire frire dans du beurre sans les brunir ajouter du bouillon de boeuf laisser mijoter a u n petit feu il deux heures, par assiettée de soupe, faut calculer deux l au m . e cuillerées de légumes coupés Ou peut faire aigre , ’ au l ieu a l eau de bouillon , on y ajoute une cuillerée de sucre ’ ’ ce du u n si l on veut, qui est délicieux c est céleri cuit avec peu de bon bouillon comme l égume et mangé avec l e poulet . 1 09 La C u isin e C re o le

Notre cu isin i ere coupait u n peu de choux dans la ju ’ - et i u n trés . lienne y metta t peu de sucre, c est bon RI Z A LA VALENCIENNES e Mettre dans une casserole tr s grande, quatre cuillerées ’ ’ ’ d h u il e u m d olive , deux gousses d ail coupés en petits dés , I -2 gros oignon coupé en petits dés , livre de jambon coupé

u n . en petits dés, poulet gras, que vous dépecez

l e sufﬁ sent. Faites revenir tout ensemble, dix minutes l e m Une fois tout revenu , mettez i médiatement une livre de e u m riz Caroline premi re qualité, donnez tour de fourchette ’ ’ l e l in fu sio sur feu , mettez ensuite n d une pincée de safran , du puis six tomates coupées en dés . Mouillez a point avec s bon bouillon , assai onnez , sel , poivre , que vous avez aupa y ra ant en soin de bien faire frire dans u m peu de saindoux . au e — l e Mettez immédiatement four tr s chaud , pour que riz gratine autour de la casserole . Cette casserole doit etre i et ar en fa ence munie de son couvercle . Une heure qu t ’ su fﬁt ce l ors u on pour la confection de mets , q en comprend 1a cu i sson JAMBALAY A ’ l assaisonner Prendre une volaille, bien avec sel , poivre et et du piments, couper en petits morceaux faire frire dans du et sain doux ! lard ) . Prendre jambon coupé faire frire

e e . dans la m me po le Lorsque la volaille est frite, ajouter de ’ - l oign on coupé trés ﬁn et les faire bien roussir . Puis ajouter des tomates coupées et faire frire . Du persil haché . ’ Lorsque tout est bien frit , ajouter de l eau V2 tasse, pour une tasse de riz) et laisser mettre sur u m feu tres - vif lorsque l e riz commence a gon ﬂ er l e mettre sur u n petit feu et ajouter une petite cuillerée de beurre . Si vous tournez

l e e l e . riz dans la po le, tourner avec une fourchette DAUBE GLACEE A LA CREOLE DE MADAME R UZAN O , NEE OLIVIER Prenez u n morceau bien épais de tranche de boeuf ! bas

u m 05 au . e de la cuisse, morceau rond avec milieu ) Apr s I 1 0 ’ fl l Usage des Petits Ménages

’ a —l e du l voir bien nettoyé , lardez libéralement avec lard frais ; salez et poivrez a votre goii t et placez l e tout dans une terrine ; mettez autour et sur votre viande des fines ’ r u m he bes hachées , oignon coupé en morceaux , sur l un desquels vous piquerez u n clou de girofl e et une ou deux ' i et - feII ll es de laurier . Couvrez bien la terrine mettez la dans u n endroit frais et laissez mariner la viande dans son u n ou tem eratu re jus pendant , deux trois jours , selon la p et l e votre convenance, mais ayez soin , une fois ou deux ’ afi n n e e jour, de retourner votre viande, qu elle s che pas s a a partie supérieure . — B . N . Si vous voulez que votre daube soit plus épicée, ’ l assaisonn em en t - u n vous pouvez ajouter a , ci dessus , m ’ petit orceau d ail et une pointe de piment . Quelques ’ personnes ont coutume aussi d ajou ter a la marinade ’ ’ — d h u il e et u n ci dessus , une ou deux cuillerées d olive ’ fil t n e u a ou ter du e de vinaigre . Cela fait q j a la succulence ’ a l ex érience cc pl t , mais p démontre que, dans cas , la daube , et et diffi cil e une fois cuite froide, devient cassante a couper

ct . en morceaux réguliers partant , moins appétissante a la vue ’ OII n Le jour vous devrez cuire votre daube, pre ez plusieurs pieds de veau ou de po rc frais ! ces derniers son t peut-étre préférables ) lavez- les et nettoyez les parfaitement et faites ’ u il s les bouillir, en ayant soin q soient toujours bien ’ ’ u s u a ce u il s et ra recouverts d eau , j q q soient cuits bien

! mollis . Mettez l e tout de cOté pour vous en servir comme - e . s ci apr s ! Ne lai sez pas refroidir . ) sa Otez votre viande de marinade, mettez la dans une grande casserole avec u m morceau de beurre ou de graisse l e ! ou peut omettre beurre ou la graisse, si la viande est ’ abondamment lardée) . Faites revenir votre daube, c est a- on u h dire, faites la cuire pendant vingt minutes peu ’ ’

u s u a ce . plus , j q qu elle ait pris couleur Versez alors dessus , ce que la terrine peut avoir de la marinade, mettez quelques et - carottes dans la casserole, versez y ensuite, les pieds

que vous avez cuits a part , avec leurs os, ainsi que I I I

’ id l Usage d es P e tits Mén ag es

comme u n petit carré au fond du vase qui doit contenir la ’ u m d es ace daube . Le vase doit laisser peu p autour de la u m l e daube pour la gelée . Coulez dans linge tout jus , versez-l e dans l e vase qui contient la daube et laissez re

01 1 au l en demal n . — EF DE MR V ERI E A I . fr d r j usqu CH . AL N LLA N

DAUBE GLACEE DE MADAME EUSTIS , MERE Prendre dans la tranche ! ou round of beef) a peu pres ’ cinq a six livres de l épaisseu r de d eux pouces u h jour avant

de cuire, coupez des bandes de lard frais , en morceaux ’ et u n s l e d un doigt de long gros comme doigt , a saisonnez l e l e sal étre lard avec sel poivre, une bonne pincée de p , a res res l rdez la daube assez p a p , ensuite frottez la daube ’ ais n A rés de chaque cOté avec l e reste de l ass o n ement. p ’ l e il l attach er fi cel l e n e as avoir lardé boeuf, faut avec une , p ’ trop serrer pour qu elle garde la forme ronde et plate et en cui sant mettre u n petit couvercle sur la casserole qui touche a l viande et mettre u mpoids dessus . Faites bouillir les pieds de veau séparément et ajoutez cette eau gel atin eu se a l a — ’ daube I I faut mettre la daube dans une terrine ju squ au ’ — l e lendemain . De bonne heure mettre dans fond d une cas n da u m serole, la co ane lard , faire bouquet de persil , thym , ’ u n u n — et oignon entier, petit morceau d ail mettre autour de u m l e dessous des pieds veau coupés deux, bien fendus par — on l e boucher met jus que la viande a rendu dedans . On - m tr - laisse cuire une demi heure sur u feu éS doux . Apres ’ ou met assez d eau pour que les pieds cuisent jusqu a cc que I l a les os soient détachés . faut que tout cuise petit feu ’ ’ doux pendant cinq a six heures ju squ a ce qu en touchant la ’ I l sauce, que les doigts sentent que c est collant . faut couvrir ’ la casserole et quand c est cuit mettre l e boeuf dans une ’ terrine pour qu elle prenne une bonne forme . Retirez les pieds et dégraissez u n peu la sauce et passez - la bien chaude u n flan ell e dans morceau de , mettez aussi deux coquilles ’ ’ d Oeu fS pour éclaircir la gelée quand elle cuit . Apres qu elle o 3 cOtés au f est passée n 1. Vide des , ond de la terrine, sans 1 1 3 ' La C u isin e Cre ole lever la daube en ayant eu soin de mettre quatre demi l e afi n l a tranches de carottes dans fond de la terrine, que r v a e l l a gelée se forme su l e bas qui tre e haut de daube . u n et On la met dans endroit froid quand on la sert , on la u m I l retourne sur plat rond . faut essayer souvent avant de réussir .

GRILLADES DE VEAU DE MADAME JOSEPHINE N I CAUD ’

l . Demandez a petite tranche de veau , c est plus tendre Coupez une livre ct demie de veau en petits carrés de trois ’ e u n e d é aisseu r centim tres , centim tres p , mettez une grande e f e - c cuillerée de lard dans la po le, faites chau fer tr s haud , ’ ’ a s u s u a ce n f ite frire votre veau j q qu il soit bie roussi , e -ﬁ n s aj outez des oignons coupés tr s , laissez colorer, ajoutez u n m sel quart de canne de to ates ; , poivre, persil , laissez u n u m ajoutez peu de farine, laissez roussir, mettez ’ u n au peu d eau , laissez cuire petit feu a res — peu p une demi heure, couvrez a demi pour laisser

échapper la vapeur . On peut aussi ajouter des piments ’ l me e . verts avec l eau , car piment permet pas la friture On peut aussi cuire du riz de veau dans cette meme sauce en retirant quelques morceaux de veau pour faire et a place en les bassinant avec cette s uce qui les rend dorés . ’ man iéreﬂ c es Les perdrix cuits de cette t délicieux . u n Faites revenir dans roux quelques perdrix , ajoutez deux a oter ou trois cuillerées de tom tes , laissez tout mij une heure

au . au oiI t . petit feu Assaisonnez g avec, sel , poivre, persil

FOIE DE VEAU A LA CELESTE AUTRE M ENT DI T UN PLAT CANAI LLE — Coupez quelques tranches de foie de veau trés tendre a res e u n peu p trois centim tres carrées , faites roux , ajoutez ’ Si e — d oi n on vous voulez tr s peu g haché ﬁn , faites revenir ou u n frire vos tranches de foie de veau , ajoutez peu de jus ou u n de viande bouillon , peu de persil , laissez mijoter une 1 1 4 ’ ‘ A l Usage des P etits Ménag es

- du d demi heure, faites bouillir macaroni Italien , mettez ans ’ u n . u n grand plat , avec des morceaux de citron C est plat

i . canaille, comme disait la vieille Celeste, mais dél cieux

PERDRI! AU! CHOU! ’ Faire blanchir les choux , presser pour faire sortir l eau ﬁ cel ez et faites revenir dans l e meme beurre que les per dreau x u n ca , faites roux , ajoutez quelques morceaux de rotte, faire cuire pendant trois heures .

Faire revenir les perdreaux , ajouter les choux blanchis , et u m carottes , oignons , persil , vin blanc, bouillon peu de rhum , faire cuire trois heures .

Faire revenir quelques morceaux de lard , ensuite les c perdreaux, ajouter houx blanchis , bouillon , saucisson , jam bon , chipolata , faire cuire trois heures .

BLANQUETTE DE VEAU Coupez des morceaux de veau en carrés faites les revenir ’ ’ au d une belle couleur dorée ajoutez de l eau froide, juste n u m n ca iveau de la viande , mettez sel , poivre, oig on , une rotte, persil , feuille de laurier, faites cuire deux heures a petit u n feu . Dans une autre casserole; mettez morceau de beurre bien frais, deux cuillerées de farine, tournez toujours et l e faites bien cuire sans prendre couleur , mouillez avec u s u n j de la viande, laissez mijoter, dans une tasse délayez ’ j aune d Oeu f avec jus de Citron ou ﬁl et de Vi nai gre et une e u n n cuillerée de cr me, ajoutez a la sauce, tournez insta t , ’ mais n e pas laisser bouillir et versez sur la viande que l On a gardée au chaud avec u n peu de jus . On peut y ajouter ’

. quelques champignons si l on veut LE ONI E pE NI N ,

FARCE POUR PATES OU POUR DES DINDES OU POUR DES VOLAILLES Hachez tres - ﬁ n une demi - livre de jeune veau bien assai i u n et sonne, fa tes revenir avec peu de graisse farine, ajoutez ’ - u n eu . p d eau des huitres, faites frire les huitres la dedans 1 1 5

’ id l Usage d es P e tits Ménages

ch Ie e -ﬁ n avec ha ez tout tr s , assaisonnement , laissez mijoter a u n u l verisez e l e feu doux , p , m lez tout faites une bonne pate, ’

f et . hachez tru fes champignons , ajoutez l eau des deux Mettez vos bécassines coupées en deux remplissez les avec l e au . hachis, mettez feu dix minutes arrosez avec la gelée

CRABES FARCIS

’ Seulement échauder vos crabes avec de l eau bouillante, O et l e nettoyez bien , tez seulement la chair qui est ferme ’ -l e e oﬁtez jaune, j etez humectez avec de la cr me, g si c est amer, ajoutez une petite cuillerée de beurre, mie de pain , sel , poivre, remettez dans les coquilles, saupoudrez de chape

au . lure, mettez four

COTES DE HOMARD

um Prenez six pommes de terre cuites pour homard . ’ l e l h u il e - u n Faites revenir homard a , ajoutez y verre de -l e l e l e et l e cognac allumez , tout en laissant sur feu tour etein te l e ﬁ n i nant, quand la ﬂamme est , cognac , on ajoute du et - vin blanc, poivre, sel , cayenne versez par dessus une sauce tomate bien assaisonnée .

BRANDADE DE MORUE Dessalez la morue pendant vingt-quatre heures au - au O e moins, blanchissez la feu , tez la peau , les arr tes, pilez ’ ’ au l h u il e du u m la bien mortier, ayez de , de l ail , persil , peu e de vinaigre bouillant , m lez votre morue en tournant tou ’ jours du meme cOté et en y ajoutant toujours de l h u il e et e du de la cr me ! ou lait) a mesure que cela devient épais, ’ ’ u s u a cc tournez bien j q qu elle soit blanche, servez dans u n plat ou dans une croute de vol au vent . ’ ’ ’ J ai compris que c est sur nu feu doux qu on tourne ’

5. res. toujours , c est comme la mayonnaise peu p Cela se — ’ garde et se mange froid pendant u n ou deux jours c est trés- riche . 1 1 7 ' La C u i si ne Cre ol e

POUR FOND DE CUISINE SAUCE AU VEAU ’ ’ u u n e il Pour q cuisine soit bonne, faut toujours qu elle — ou . ait une base fond de cuisine Ayez une bonne gelée, faite u m avec une tranche de jeune veau , pied de veau , faites e du o revenir dans la po le, comme pour faire b euf a la ’ m — - u m d oi n on ode ajoutez y petit morceau g , deux carottes a et tr nchées en deux , une feuille de laurier, persil , sel poivre, ’ a joutez deux tasses d eau , laissez mijoter trois ou

quatre heures , passez dans une passoire , laissez refroidir, enlevez la graisse et servez - vous de cela pour bassiner rOtis cOtel ettes— vos , beefsteak , coupez en petits morceaux — et servez avec viandes froides et salade La meme sauce u m peut se faire avec des rogatons, pour ménage économique.

SAUCE TOMATE Prenez une canne de tomates ou dix ou douze tomates fraich es u m — bien , petit oignon , sel , poivre persil mettez — dans une casserole u n petit morceau de beurre laissez mi ter — u n j o deux ou trois heures mettez dans bol . Vous pourrez vous servir de cette sauce pour la soupe, pour ' o ce épaissir des ragouts , avec des eufs poches , qui fait des ’ mu fs Portu ais ' ou du u avec du g avec riz ainsi q macaroni , — - tout de suite vous avez u n plat délicieux ltrés u tile et ' économique pour les petits ménages .

SAUCE TARTARE

’ Dans un bol mettez deux jaunes d Oeu f une cuillerée ’ ’ et l h u il e a thé de moutarde, tournez ajoutez de d olive goutte a goutte et tournant toujours et du meme cOté ; san s quitter — et la sauce, quand celle ci est bien prise ajoutez sel poivre, et u n h l et au ﬁ nir de vinaigre , juste moment de la mettez ’ du u n d éch al otte persil , cerfeuil , ciboulette, soupcon ou l e e —ﬁ n e oignon, tout haché tr s , melang délicatement a la n e sauce, pour pas la faire tourner. 1 1 8 ’ ’ 54 l Usage d es P etits Me nages

Servez avec du poisson frit ou cuit au court-bouillon ou avec de la viande froide .

SAUCE H UBER’D

’ Aprés cuisson d éch al ottes dans du vinaigre passez -les un l e mém e dans tamis , dans tamis passez, foie de poulet l e u m qui aura cuit sur gril , délayez peu a peu avec peu ’ d éch al otte passée ; au moment de servir terminez l e me

l e du o . lange, ajoutez jus r ti

SAUCE BORDELAISE

1 - 2 Versez dans une casserole, bouteille de vin de Bor

éch al otte . deaux, ajoutez sel , piment , persil , hachée Faites réduire l e liquide de moitié ajoutez-y u n peu de sauce brune ’ ct l e l étamin e ou sauce tomate, passez tout a a passoire, coupez en dés 1 -4 de livre de Moelle de b txzu f et servez bien chaud . SAUCE BLANCHE

’ d Oeu f - Prenez trois jaunes , mettez les dans une petite a e casserole, joutez de la cr me, une cuillerée de beurre, au - l e faites cuire bain Marie, tournez la sauce tout temps ’ I pour qu elle prenne bien . l faut faire la sauce une demi ’ heure avant d en avoir besoin et au moment de la servir y u n ou ajouter jus de citron quelques gouttes de vinaigre . Pour des oeufs a la Morelle vous faites bouillir vingt minutes des oeufs tres-durs que vous coupez et ajoutez a ’ cette sauce avec u n peu de jus d oignon en ajoutant u n peu

de poivre rouge . e cc ui Cette m me sauce peut servir pour des huitres, q

fait des huitres a la poulette.

SAUCE BEARNAISE

éch al ottes - Hachez six , mettez les dans une casserole avec ’ l e t quart d un verre de vinaigre, faites réduire c passez a i la passo re . Dans une autre casserole mettez trois jaunes 1 1 9

’ H l Usage des P e tits Ménagef

e t o f tine rec t e pour pudding patate, en ajoutant deux eu s, - et u n m demi tasse de lait peu de uscade . i au des Fa tes cuire four patates douces , tranchées et ’ rissolées dans du beurre et du sucre ; c est del icieu x avec du rosb eef . OSEILLE

’ ’ L oseill e e - doit tre bien épluchée et lavee. Mettez la ’ et cuire a l eau bouillante a grande eau salée , cinq minutes s - - de cui son , retirez la avec précaution et mettez la dans une ’ ’ Si l oseill e e - bassine d eau froide est tr s acide, faites cette - au ssitOt et - opération deux fois , retirez la égouttez la bien . u n Dans une casserole, mettez bon morceau de beurre, ’ l oseill e et du l e e m sel , mettez sur feu t re uez toujours ah n ’ l e l oseill e u n que en fondant beurre se lie bien a , ajoutez un et peu de lait , encore morceau de beurre liez toujours, servez garni de croutons frits .

POMMES DE TERRE SOUFFLEES Coupez en lames de belles pommes de terre pas trop - — épaisses , mettez les a la friture pas trop chaude, faites les m au ssitOt frire tout douce ent , que vos pommes montent sur - f la friture, retirez les , faites chau fer de nouveau votre fri ’ ’ - u s u a ce ture bien chaude, plonges les dedans j q qu elles - on ﬂées et e et . soient bien g s ches , retirez les servez — LE EF A . H I T CH C R S I .

GRATIN AU! POMMES DE TERRE Coupez les pommes de terre crues de la forme et de ’ l is u r c u epa se d une piece de inq francs . Beurrez n plat de faience qui va au four ; placez une couche de pommes de ’ s terre aupoudrées de poivre, sel , d un peu de fromage de

Gruyere répé ; ajoutez u m peu de beurre . Superposez les ’ couches de pommes de terre ainsi saupoudrées j u squ a ce ’ l e que l e plat soit plein . Recouvrez tout d une autre couche

e u n . de fromage de Gruy re , poivre , sel , peu de beurre Met tez dans un four bien chaud ; arrosez deux ou trois fois 1 2 1 La C u is in e Creol e

’ d — d un peu de bouillon ou de lait . Servez chau Dans les campagnes fran caises on n e fait cc plat que les jours de ’ grande lessive aﬁ n que l e four soit tres chaud ; car si cc n est ’

au d étre cc . I l n e pas saisi , lieu excellent , mets est insipide ’ faut pas non plus employer d autre fromage que celui de

e f raich ement . Gruy re, rapé UN E SAV OI SI EN N E .

LA SACCAMI T E

s La saccamité se mange avec des canards sauvage . Laissez tremper une tasse de saccamité dans deux litres ’ l e -l e d eau froide toute la nuit , lendemain laissez bouillir ’ quatre heures sur u n petit feu dans deux litres d eau ’ — - il doit absorber toute l eau mettez l e dans u m plat a re et du froidir, coupez en tranches faites frire dans saindoux

et servez chaud avec canards sauvages . ’ Les enfants l aimen t bien simplement bouilli en ajou tant du sucre et u n peu de lait ou creme . ’ Les restes de hominy peuvent s u tiliser de la méme maniere . SALADE A LA DUC DE MORNY Coupez en tres - petites tranches des pommes de terre qui ont b ou illirs et me été salées les laissez pas trop refroidir, - et — assaisonnez les avec poivre, sel , huile vinaigre coupez quelques truffes en tranches meme grandeur que les pommes mél ez- et - de terre, les ensemble versez par dessus une jolie

sauce mayonnaise . BANANES

E l u ch ez et -l es du p tranchez des bananes, roulez dans

sucre et faites frire dans du beurre frais . entiéres du c Ou cuites dans sirop de batri , comme une

conﬁture ou bien dans leur peau au four .

CERVELLES DE MOUTON FANEES

’ u n u n Faites bouillir quinze minutes dans litre d eau , et i oignon , persil , feuille de laurier , sel po vre ; mettez trois 1 2 2 ’ H l Usage des P e tits Ménages

' e -fraich es et dé or ees cervelles de mouton, tr s bien g g , laissez u di x n u n et é o tter . dan s u . bo illir mi utes , retirez laissez g linge ’ A rés s s — p qu elle ont refroidies , coupez les en petits morceaux - rou carrés , embrochez les avec petites brochettes en argent, ’ - d Oeu f lez les dans trois bl ancs battus en neige, puis dans de a et la chapelure blanche, faites frire grande bonne friture e — et tr s chaude, servez avec les brochettes , dressez garnissez

‘ et me avec persil frit ou frais tranches de citron , faire frire au cc n e que juste moment de servir , mets pouvant attendre, su fﬁ sent et tréS- et quelques minutes , faire vite servir chaud bien égoutté .

1 23

M T D I N N EW O E N T H E O LD FR ENCH CH EF S ELL I NG US AR RL A S

! ’ H l Usage d es P etits Ménages

u m et dans fer blanc, une cuillerée de beurre une de saindoux

. a ce 2 ! lard ) Ajouter mélange fondu , tassées de lait et ’ ce 2 et une d eau , j eter liquide en ou 3 fois dans la farine, ’ u m u s u a cc bien tourner avec une cuillerée ou couteau , j q l e du e que fond plat soit net ainsi que la cuill re . Laisser lever toute la nuit dans u n endroit tempéré et l e lendemain 2 et matin retourner la pate ou 3 fois , la diviser en pains . PAIN NOIR

l e l a e i Pour pain noir faire de m me man ere, excepté, avoir 2 quarts de farine au lieu de trois et ajouter une demi

tasse de sirop . MARYLAND BISCUITS l Pour e thé de cinq heures . Mettez dans u n b ol une

- tasse de farine , ajoutez y deux cuillerées a thé de baking u n l e powder, quart de cuillerée a thé de sel , travaillez tout u n - r m avec couteau ajoutez une demi pinte de c é e. Travail ’ lez l e tout ju squ a cc que cela forme une bonne pate ; sur ’ ’ - l e a l é aisseu r . au une planche , roulez p d un pouce Mettez

- four assez chaud 1 0 m inutes . Coupez les en deux et trem pez-les dans du beurre fondu ; remettez -les ensemble au four

et . pendant 3 minutes . Légers délicieux

GATEAU SEC DE LEONIE PENI N

I I I Prenez tasse de sucre, tasse de lait , tasse de farine, mettez 3 oeufs tout ensemble blanc et jaune dans u n bol ° l e mélangez tout ensemble , bien travaillé, faites cuire dans ’ des assiettes en fer blanc beurrées et saupoudrez d un peu de

farine . u n Faites plus épais pour gateau chocolat , que vous tran ’ - chez ety mette z une con ﬁtu re d ab ricots. 3 tablettes de cho u n l e colat Menier ou quart , une tasse de lait , faites bouillir l e l e lait , mettez chocolat dedans , faites dissoudre chocolat en ’ — l e u n d h eu re. tournant , laissez cuire quart Laissez refroidir

et appliquez sur l e gateau . 1 2 5 La Cu is in e C réole

UN PUDDING DE MAIS i Prenez 5 épis ma s que vous faites bouillir, rapez mettez u n les dans bol , ajoutez une cuillerée de sucre, une pincée de ’ e d Oeu f sel , une grande cuillerée de cr me, 4 jaunes , battez 4 ’ d Oeu f l e et blancs en neige , mélangez tout bien ensemble u n au — versez dans plat beurré, mettez four une demi heure e assez chaud comme pour faire du soufﬂ t.

RECETTE DE LA GENOISE

’ o cOté Mettez deux eufs dans une balance, pesez de l autre cc autant de sucre en poudre que poids, autant de beurre, e u n m me quantité de farine . Faites fondre peu de beurre mi n i cassez les oeufs , sans battre, blanc, jaune mélangez bien l e - b e rrez tout ensemble, ajoutez y une petite pincée de sel , p u n peu u mplat en fer blanc et faites cuire . On peut ajouter

Si m . s quelques amandes pilées , on les ai e On peut aus i rouler cette pate et en faire des petits gateaux secs pour l e ’ trés-b on ou u n ou thé, c est , les découpe avec verre autre moule . FROMAGE A LA CREME

u n étre l ac1ere Dans endroit frais , sans a la g , laissez r u n ou il trés- tou ner litre deux de bon lait ; quand est ferme, mettez égoutter dans u n linge en l e tenant suspendu pen dant une nuit ; l e lendemain détachez et mettez dans une u n et terrine avec grain de sel une pincée de sucre, ’ bien battre ju squ a que cc soit une pate legere et i dan S ou l sse, mettez des petits moules troués petits pan ’ i r - e s et . , garnis d un linge propre sec Mettez les pendant ren verez- u n et deux heures sur la glace, les dans compotier e versez dessus de la cr me douce, servez . On peut se servir plusieurs fois des mém es linges en ayant soin de les laver au ssitOt s n e , mai jamais user de savon, faites bouillir avec ! ” et washing soda , rincez laissez tromper longtemps a ’ et - u l eau fraiche faites les bien sécher a grand air . LE NI E P I O EN N. 1 26 ’ A l Usage des P e tits Mé nages

CREME A LA GLACE A LA CELESTINE

’ 6 d 0eu f I ch o Prenez jaunes , blanc, une demi livre de 2 s u m e colat extra ﬁn , tassée de sucre, quart de litre de cr me

u m . bien fraiche, morceau de vanille Battez les jaunes ’ d Oeu f u m c l e dans bol; ajoutez les blan s , puis sucre ! battez

et créme. l e ferme) , ajoutez la Faites dissoudre chocolat a du - l e s a u n d ns lait chaud , puis laissez épai sir d ns Bain l e u m Marie, en ajoutant de la vanille, versez dans bol , puis u m u n passez dans tamis, faites glacer, puis mettez dans

moule sur la glace . RI Z A L ’ANGLAISE 1 -2 2 — kilogramme de riz cuit dans , litres de lait pour la e I -2 - a cr me anglaise ; kilogramme de sucre, 3 4 litre de l it , o e s - em 7 eufs enti r ; 45 grammes de gelatine, 3 4 litre de cr e

fouettée . Quelques fruits coupés .

GATEAU DE MOUSELI NE

o - u n Sept eufs , une demi livre de sucre quart de fécule

. l e l e de pomme de terre Battez jaune avec sucre, ajoutez e e l et t e . l e la fécule, apr s blanc bien battez Passez sucre au la fécule soleil .

POMMES CUITES A LA THOMAS JEFFERSON 6 8 - Prenez ou belles pommes , épluchez les en ayant soin ’ d enl ever l e o c eur, que vous remplissez de sucre brut , - u m - du méme mettez les dans fer blanc, saupoudrez les c et u n sucre, posez par dessus quelques tran hes de citron ’ morceau de canelle, arrosez avec quelques cuillerées d eau et mettez- les au four ; les pommes seront dorées et auront

une belle gelée . Cela se mange avec de la creme . — ED G E I Vir in ia . H LL , g FLAN AU! CERISES

l e éte Garnissez moule a ﬂan avec de la p brisée, abaissée ’ un - a demi centimetre . Saupoudrez d une bonne couche de 1 2 7

’ A l Usage d es P etits Ménages

La cuisine est comme la jardinage il y a toujours quelque chose a apprendre.

POUR FAIRE DU BON CAFE ’ du ! Faire bon café Le conseil a l air débonnaire ; mais, ffi u l di c tés . cc dans la pratique , les abondent Voici que a ce mén a éres et révo conseille suj et , aux g méticuleuses p y ” antes l e Revue universelle . Prendre u n filtre en fer-blanc tout simplement ; les fil tres - en fer blanc sont les meilleurs . Cet outillage modeste étant il l e organisé comme convient, placez votre café moulu sur ’ fil tre I o su ffi sen t , grammes par tasse ; quand l eau est a l e in moitié chaude, arrosez pour préparer a recevoir les ’ - et l e filtra e . fusions faciliter g Quand l eau bout , j etez la en quatre fois sur l e café ! la premiere infusion en train e la du dit deu xreme du force café, la une partie café, la troi sieme et qu atriéme l e dépouillent de tout cc qui aurait pu n e résister aux autres infusions . Sous aucun prétexte ’ l e ti l e il n Sfi r mettre café s r feu , y a pas de moyen plus ’ l a areil pour en détruire toutes ses qualités . Tenez pp ser

au . l e vant café avec la plus grande propreté Souvent , mau ’ ’ vais goii t qu on trouve provient d un manque de lavage a ’ I l l eau froide . faut trois ou quatre mélanges pour faire du

et ! . bon café, bien grillé clair moka , bourbon , martinique

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