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Overland Routes f r o m S ì c h u ān

Why Go? Kāngdìng (Dardo) . . . 217 Wild, mountainous and deliciously remote, the tradition- Tǎgōng (Lhagong) . . 222 ally Tibetan areas of western Sìchuān are a cultural and Gānzī (Garzê) ...... 223 geographical extension of the in all but Manigango ...... 224 name. This area was once part of the eastern Tibetan re- ...... 226 gion of , and has long been the meeting point of the Lithang ...... 227 Chinese and Tibetan worlds. In many ways Tibetan culture is better preserved here Bathang ...... 229 than in the Tibetan Autonomous Region (TAR). It’s cer- tainly subject to fewer religious restrictions, and you’ll see photos of the Dalai Lama displayed freely. Unlike the TAR, western Sìchuān is also permit-free, Best Places to Eat meaning foreign travellers can explore to their heart’s con- tent. If you do manage to get those pesky permits to contin- » Tibetan Restaurant ue over the high passes and deep gorges into the even more (p 224 ) remote eastern , you’ll deserve to feel a little smug in » Khampa Café & Arts the knowledge that you have completed one of the world’s Centre (p 223 ) great road trips. » Tibetan Culture Dew (p 221 ) » Tiantian Restaurant (p 228 ) When to Go » Street barbecues in Bathang (p229 ) May and June are the prime times for western Sìchuān. It’s generally warm and sunny with occasional afternoon rains. If you’re in the Kāngdìng area in May, it’s worth try- Best Places to ing to pay a visit to Pǎomǎ Shān for the Walking Around the Mountain Festival. Stay In July and August the grassland areas are green and full » Dala Gong (p 225 ) of fl owers, and play host to horse festivals such as the one in Lithang. It’s worth keeping an umbrella handy for this time » Jya Drolma and Gayla’s Guesthouse (p 223 ) of year, though! Rains lessen in September and October, and days are » Camping at Yilhun sunny again, but it’s starting to get pretty chilly by this Lha-tso (p225 ) time. Sightseeing can still be on the agenda but think twice » Zhilam Hostel (p221 ) before planning any hiking. » Potala Inn (p228 ) Permits ing the imperious Gònggā Shān (Minyak The good news is that no permits are re- Gangkar in Tibetan; 7556m), and Kāngdìng 217 quired anywhere in western Sìchuān, al- is famed throughout for Kāngdìng though it’s worth noting that from time to Qínggē, a popular love song inspired by the time certain areas are closed to foreigners town’s surrounding scenery. temporarily. You will, though, need permits to continue into the Tibetan Autonomous 1 Sights

Region (TAR) – if the border is open (see the There are several small monasteries in OVERLAND ROUTES FROM SÌCHU SIGHTS box below). For more details, see the Tours and around Kāngdìng. The central Ānjué & Permits chapter (p 29). Temple (安觉寺; Ānjué Sì; Ngachu Gompa in Tibetan) dates back to 1652 and was Dangers & Annoyances built under the direction of the fi fth Dalai Western Sìchuān experiences up to 200 Lama. freezing days per year; summers are blister- Nánwú Temple (南无寺; Nánwú Sì) be- ing by day and the high altitude invites par- longs to the Gelugpa (Yellow Hat) sect of ticularly bad sunburn. Lightning storms and is the most active are frequent from May to October, when monastery in the area. It also aff ords good cloud cover can shroud the scenic peaks. views of Kāngdìng and the valley. Walk If you’re thinking of crossing into Tibet south along the main road, cross the river from Bathang or Derge without the neces- and keep going for about 200m until you sary permits, you may want to reconsider. see a rusty old sign for the monastery (in The PSB keeps a very close eye on for-

traditional Chinese characters: 南無寺) on Ā eigners straying west of these towns, and your right. Follow that track up hill, beside N drivers can be severely punished for carry- a stream, and the monastery will be on your SIGHTS K Ā ing foreigners across the border, so think right. NGDÌNG (DARDO) twice before potentially putting locals at Nearby, about 100m further along the risk. main road, is Jīngāng Temple (金刚寺; Jīngāng Sì), a 400-year-old mon- astery set around a lawned courtyard. Turn K āngdìng (Dardo) 康定 right at the sign for Knapsack Inn. %0836 / POP 110,000 / ELEV 2616M You can head up 2900m Pǎomǎ Shān The ‘do’ of Kāngdìng’s Tibetan name, Dar- (admission Y50) for some excellent views of do, means ‘river confl uence’, and this lively Kāngdìng and the surrounding mountains town is nestled in a deep river valley at the and valleys. The ascent takes you past oo- point where the fast-fl owing Yǎlā (Tse in dles of prayer fl ags and several Buddhist Tibetan) meets the raging Zhéduō (Dar) temples up to a white chörten. Avoid hik- which roars its way right through the town ing alone, as a British tourist was murdered centre. More poignantly, Kāngdìng has for here in 2000 and one or two muggings have centuries also been the point at which two been reported. very diff erent cultures converge. To reach the hill, bear left at the fork in This is the gateway into Sìchuān’s Tibet- the road south of the bus station and walk an world, and it’s long been a trade centre about 10 minutes until you reach a mon- between Tibetans and Han Chinese, with astery on the left; a stairway leads up the wool and yak hides travelling in one direc- tion, and bricks of tea in the other. It also served as an important staging post on the road to Lhasa, as indeed it still does today. TIBET BORDER Historically, Kāngdìng was the capital CLOSED of the local Tibetan kingdom of Chakla At the time of research foreigners (or Chala) before, briefl y, being the capital were forbidden from travelling over- of the now defunct Chinese province of land from Sìchuān into Tibet proper Xīkāng. Today, although there is a large because Tibet’s far eastern prefecture Tibetan population, the city feels more Chi- of Chamdo, which borders Sìchuān, nese, but you can still fi nd elements of Ti- was completely off limits. Check the betan culture in the food, the dress and, to Tibet branch of Lonely Planet’s online a lesser extent, in the architecture. forum, Thorn Tree (lonelyplanet.com/ The steep river valley here is set amidst thorntree), for the latest information. distant snowcapped mountains, includ- To Sêrshu Overland (49km) 218 Routes from Sêrxu Sìchuān Highlights 1 Stay with Tibetan nomads on the beautiful OVERLAND ROUTES FROM SÌCHU grasslands of Tǎgōng (p222 ) 2 Watch traditional Tibetan block printing Dzogchen done by hand at Derge’s Gompa fabulous printing Dzongsar Gompa monastery (p 226 ) Tro-la (5050m) Darjay 3 Hang with the Manigango Gompa butter-tea-sipping locals Derge Yilhun Dala in any one of western Lha-tso Gong Sìchu ān’s fabulously Pelpung Trola Peak down-to-earth Tibetan Jomda Gompa (6018m) teahouses Pewar Topa 317 Gompa Beri Gompa 4 Bunk with the Ā monks in the dorms at Kathok N Chamdo Pelyul Gompa

Dala Gong (p225 ), a monastery guesthouse (Baiyu) set among some of the most spectacular scenery imaginable 5 Dri-chu Hike around the Dza-chu (Mekong TIBET

turquoise-blue waters of Ya Tsopu Sangtou-la

the stunning holy Yilhun n Gompa (Haizi Shan) g (J (4675m)

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CHÉNGD§ Emei Bamei Shan Mt Zhare Lhatse Tagong (5820m) (So Yajiang Hwy ut h) Lithang Xinduqiao Kangding Ya'an Zhargye Nyenri Luding Gompa

4679m Leshan Minya Konka 4602m (Gongga Shan) (7556m)

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Y20 you get your own private room with Kāngdìng jacuzzi-sized sunken pool. For Y80 to Y120, æ Top Sights the rooms and pools are larger, have bath- Ānjué Temple ...... A3 rooms and towels are provided. There’s also a communal hot-spring swimming pool ÿ Sleeping (Y45). All prices are per person, not per 1 Kāngdìng Hotel ...... A3 room. It’s a pleasant 45-minute walk here, 2 Yōngzhū Hotel ...... A3 along the Yǎlā River, or an Y8 taxi. ú Eating 3 A'Re Tibetan Restaurant...... D1 z Festivals & Events Kāngdìng’s biggest annual festival, the 4 Barbecue Stalls...... B1

5 Dàtóng Xiaochi ...... B1 Walking Around the Mountain Festival (Zhuànshānjié), takes place on Pǎomǎ Shān 6 Tibetan Culture Dew ...... B2 on the eighth day of the fourth lunar month ý Entertainment (normally in May) to commemorate the 7 Happiness in Heaven...... B1 birthday of the Historical Buddha, Thukpa (Sakyamuni). White-and-blue Ti- betan tents cover the hillside and there’s hill from here. A second, more direct route, wrestling, horse racing and visitors from all heads up the hill further south, beginning over western Sìchuān. above the staircase on Dongda Xiaojie. You could also ride up in the cable car (suǒdào; 4 Sleeping 索道; one way/return Y20/30). By the entrance Yōngzhū Hotel GUESTHOUSE $$ to the cable car is a small Tibetan museum ( 拥珠驿栈; Yōngzhū Yìzhàn; %283 2381, 159 (admission Y30; h8am-6pm). 8373 8188; off Guangming Lu; dm Y30-40, d Y120- About 5km north of K āngdìng are the 160) Hidden in a lane beside Kāngdìng Èrdào Bridge Hot Springs (二道桥温泉; Hotel, this small, friendly guesthouse has Èrdàoqiáo Wēnquán; admission Y10-120; h7am- comfortable, well-kept rooms, including midnight) where you can have an hour-long three- and four-bed dorms decorated with soak in hot, sulphurous water. For Y10 to colourful Tibetan furnishings and built around an inner atrium. There’s 24-hour A’Re Tibetan Restaurant TIBETAN $$ hot water in both the common and private ( 阿热藏餐; Ā’rè Zàngcān; %669 6777; Xinshi 221 bathrooms. Qianjie; dishes Y12-78; h9am-10pm) More of a proper restaurant than Tibetan Culture Kāngdìng Hotel HOTEL $$$ Dew, and with a bigger menu, this place 康定宾馆 % ( ; Kāngdìng Bīnguǎn; 283 2077; 25 does tasty soups, tsampa and yak-meat ai For some- Guangming Lu; r from Y360; ) dishes including a whole yak hoof, if that thing more comfortable, this decent hotel,

sort of thing takes your fancy? English OVERLAND ROUTES FROM SÌCHU right beside Ānjué Temple, had standard EATING twins going for Y240 when we were there. menu too. Two hostels that were closed at the time of research, but which get good re- 3 Entertainment Happiness in Heaven TIBETAN DANCE HALL views from travellers, are Zhilam Hostel ( 天地吉祥; Tiāndì Jíxiáng; Xi Dajie; h7pm- (汇道客栈; Huìdào Kèzhàn; %283 1100; www. midnight; drinks from Y20) Traditional Tibetan zhilamhostel.com; Bái Tǔkǎn Cūn; dm Y35/60, and Chinese songs, including the famous ste Oct-Apr/May-Sep Y260/450; iW), whose American owners had gone back home for Kāngdìng Love Song, are performed to ear- a few months, and 背包 splitting techno beats and appreciative au- Knapsack Inn ( diences, and you can get up and dance once 客栈; Bēibāo Kèzhàn; %283 8377; dm Y25-35, the performances are fi nished. d without bathroom Y80; i), which was being renovated. Both are walking distance from the Ānjué Temple area or a Y6 to Y8 taxi ride 8 Information from the bus station. Knapsack is next door ATM (自动柜员机; Zìdòng Guìyuán Jī; Yanhe Ā N Donglu) China Construction Bank ATM. One of a to Jīngāng Temple. Zhilam is a 10-minute EATINGK walk up behind Yōngzhū Hotel. Once the few around town that takes foreign cards. Ā NGDÌNG (DARDO) short lane ends, keep following the winding Internet cafe (网吧; wǎngbā; per hr Y3; footpath. h24hr) Public Security Bureau (公安局; PSB; 5 Eating Gōng’ānjú; %281 1415; Dongda Xiaojie; On mild evenings, Sìchuān barbecue stalls h8.30am-noon & 2.30-5.30pm) Next-day visa- (烧烤; shāokǎo) set up around the northeast extension service. corner of People’s Sq. 8 Getting There & Away Tibetan Culture Dew TIBETAN $$ Air o( 西藏雨; Xīzàng Yǔ; %158 0836 6530; K āngdìng airport only serves Chéngdū (35 Yanhe Xilu; dishes Y15-38; h11am-11pm) Hang out with the yak-butter-tea-sipping locals at minutes), and only has one daily fl ight (8.13am). this lovely teahouse/restaurant with a rus- Tickets cost around Y1000 before discounts, but can often be had for Y500 or less. Either tic stone-and-wood interior decorated with buy them online (www.elong.com is good) or colourful Tibetan prayer fl ags. There are all from the flight ticket centre (机场售票中 sorts of tea if you don’t like the yak-butter 心; Jīchǎng Shòupiào Zhōngxīn; %287 1111; 28 variety, plus coff ee and beer. The English Jianlu Jie; h8.30am-5.30pm) at the north end menu is limited, but includes tsampa, Tibet- of town. An airport bus (Y22) leaves from out- an yoghurt, a few yak-meat dishes and some side the ticket centre at 6.30am. delicious dumplings. Bus The bus station is a 10-minute walk north of the centre and has services to Bathang (Y142.5, BRING PLENTY OF 12 hours, one daily, 6am), Chéngdū (Y121 to CHINESE CASH Y131, eight hours, hourly 6am to 4pm), Derge (Y176, 16 hours, 6am), Gānzī (Y113, 11 hours, At the time of research it was impos- 6am), Lithang (Y87.5, eight hours, 6.30am) and sible to change money or travellers Tǎgōng (Y39, three hours, 6am). cheques or get advances on credit Minibuses to all destinations on the following cards or use ATMs with foreign bank pages leave from outside the bus station. Ones cards anywhere in western Sìchuān, to Tǎgōng are cheaper from Xinshi Qianjie. apart from Kāngdìng. So bring plenty Remember, private hire: ‘bāochē’ (包车) and of rénmínbì. shared vehicle: ‘pīnchē’ (拼车). 1 Sights 222 Tǎgōng Monastery MONASTERY DON’T DOUBLE UP ON ( 塔公寺; Tǎgōng Sì; admission Y20) The story TRAVEL INSURANCE goes that when Princess Wencheng, the Chinese bride-to-be of Tibetan king Song- Save yourself a couple of yuán each tsen Gampo, was on her way to Lhasa in the time you buy a long-distance bus 7th century, a precious statue of Jowo Sak- ticket by saying that you don’t need OVERLAND ROUTES FROM SÌCHU yamuni Buddha toppled off one the carts in road insurance: ‘bùyòng bǎoxiǎn’. her entourage. A replica of the statue was Most ticket sellers don’t realise that carved on the spot where it landed and a foreign tourists usually have their own temple then built around it. You’ll fi nd travel insurance, so they’ll assume the statue in the right-hand hall here. The you want it. original, which is the most revered Buddha image in all of Tibet, is housed in Lhasa’s Jokhang Temple. NORTHERN ROUTE Also note the beautiful 1000-armed It may have only been around since 1954, Chenresig (Avalokiteshvara) in the hall but the Sìchu ān–Tibet Hwy has a well- to the left. And don’t miss the impressive deserved reputation for being one of the collection of over 100 chörtens behind the highest, roughest, most dangerous and monastery. most beautiful roads in the world. Around Hépíng Fǎhuì NUNNERY Ā 70km west of Kāngdìng it splits in two to

N Lama Tsemper was a revered local hermit form the Northern Route (Hwy 317) and the NORTHERN ROUTE who spent much of his life meditating in a Southern Route (Hwy 318). cave about two hours’ walk across the grass- The Northern Route is around 300km lands from Tǎgōng. Local nuns would bring longer and is generally less travelled. This him food and generally look after him. Just is ‘big sky’ country, with wide-open grass- before his death in the 1980s, he requested lands, beginning near Tǎgōng, leading to a temple be built here, so it was decided to soaring snow-topped mountains, and it build a nunnery too. Hépíng Fǎhùi (和平法 passes through traditional Tibetan com- 会), known locally as ani gompa (‘nunnery’ munities with their remote monasteries in Tibetan), is now home to around 500 and motorcycle-riding yak herders. It also nuns and more than 100 monks and is a fas- crosses Tro-la (5050m), the highest pass cinating place to visit. this side of Lhasa, before descending to- Lama Tsemper’s remains are in a wards the Tibet border. chörten inside the original cave; you may You must come prepared with warm have to ask a nun to unlock the door to look clothing; even in mid-summer, it can be inside. Below the cave is the temple and a very cold at higher elevations once the sun huge mani wall as big as the temple itself, goes down. Remember that bus services which has its own kora that attracts many can be erratic – this is no place to be in a pilgrims. hurry. From the mani wall, you can see a hill, covered in thousands of prayer fl ags, where sky burials take place. If you see some ac- T ǎgōng (Lhagong) 塔公 tivity up there, feel free to take a look, but %0836 / ELEV 3750M remember to act with the same respect you The small Tibetan village of Tǎgōng and would any funeral ceremony. Some families its beautiful surrounding grasslands of- donate the deceased’s possessions to the fer plenty of excuses to linger. As well as nunnery, and these genuine Tibetan fam- an important monastery and a fascinating ily heirlooms can actually be bought in the nearby nunnery, there’s also horse trekking small convenience shop at the foot of the and hiking, and travellers give rave reviews hill. Next to the shop is a canteen (noodles/ to the Tibetan homestays here. Some even tsampa/butter tea Y6/6/8) with a simple have an opportunity to watch sky burials guesthouse (dm Y20) upstairs. nearby. Getting to the nunnery is half the fun. Tǎgōng is well above 3000m, so take Heading north out of town, turn right just time to adjust to the altitude if you’re com- after the Golden Temple, then, at some ing from lower terrain to the east. point soon after crossing the river bridge, serves authentic Tibetan cuisine as well roll up your trouser legs and bound your as Westernised Tibetan dishes (think yak 223 way over the grasslands on your left, to- burger) and straightforward Western food, wards the golden-roofed shedra (monastic including good breakfasts. The fresh coff ee college) that you’ll see way off in the dis- is excellent, as is the yak-butter tea, and tance. The nunnery is just down the hill there should be wi-fi up and running by the from the shedra. time you read this. They also sell beautiful

clothes, handicrafts and jewellery, hand- OVERLANDNORTHERN ROUTE ROUTES FROM SÌCHU 2 Activities made by locals from various parts of west- Angela, at Khampa Café & Arts Centre ern Sìchuān and Tibet. Also next to Tǎgōng (p 223), can arrange Tibetan homestays Temple. , (per person per night Y40) horse trekking (per 8 person per day Y250) and guided grassland Getting There & Away hikes (per day per person Y150). Prices are all A bus from Gānzī to Kāngdìng (Y40, two hours, inclusive. She will also point people in the 7.30am) passes Tǎgōng Temple, but you might right direction who want to hike out into the not get a seat. Alternatively, take a shared ACTIVITIES grasslands on their own. The homestays get minivan (Y50). Note, you might struggle to fi nd particularly good reviews from travellers. fellow passengers after about 10am. To get to Lithang, take the Kāngdìng bus or 新都桥 z Festivals a shared minivan to Xīndūqiáo ( ; Y15, Like many places in this part of Tibetan one hour) from where you can fl ag down the Kāngdìng–Lithang bus (Y64, seven hours),

Sìchuān, Tǎgōng holds an annual Ā horse- which passes by at around 9am, or a minibus racing festival (sàimǎhuì), during the fi fth (Y80). N lunar month (usually early July), which fea- ACTIVITIESG For Gānzī, you can try to snag a seat on the bus Ā tures thousands of Tibetan herdsmen and from Kāngdìng which passes here between 9am NZ

Tibetan opera. Ī and 10am. You may be able to arrange a shared (GARZÊ) minivan too. 4 Sleeping & Eating Jya Drolma & Gayla’s Guesthouse GUESTHOUSE $ G ānzī (Garzê) 甘孜 ( %266 6056; dm Y25, tw with shared bathroom %0836 / ELEV 3394M Y50) Bedrooms here – even the dorms – are This dusty but lively market town in a a riot of golds, reds and blues, with elabor- picturesque valley surrounded by snow- ately painted ceilings and walls. There are capped mountains is the capital of the common toilets on each fl oor and one show- Gānzī Autonomous Prefecture and is popu- er with 24-hour hot water. Look for the Eng- lated mostly by Tibetans. It’s easy to spend lish sign on the opposite side of the square a couple of days here exploring the beauti- from the monastery. No English is spoken, ful countryside, which is scattered with but the welcome is very friendly. Tibetan villages and monasteries. Photo opportunities abound. Snowland Guesthouse GUESTHOUSE $ ( 雪城旅社; Xuěchéng Lǚshè; %286 6098, 130 5645 7979; [email protected]; dm from 1 Sights North of the town’s Tibetan quarter, Y10, s without bathroom Y20, tw with bathroom Garzê 甘孜寺 is Y80) This long-standing backpacker hang- Gompa ( ; Gānzī Sì; admission Y15) out, right beside Tǎgōng Temple, has less the region’s largest monastery, dating back character than Gayla’s but is still a fi ne more than 500 years and glimmering with choice. Sally, who also runs the adjacent blinding quantities of gold. Encased on the walls of the main hall are hundreds of small cafe-restaurant, Sally’s Kham Restaurant golden Sakya Thukpas (Sakyamunis). In a (%139 0564 7979; [email protected]; smaller hall just west of the main hall is an dishes Y3-35; h8am-10pm), speaks a bit of English. awe-inspiring statue of Jampa (Maitreya or Future Buddha), dressed in a giant silk robe. oKhampa Café & Arts Centre The views into the mountains from here are TIBETAN-WESTERN $ fantastic. ( %136 8449 3301; defi nitelynomadic.com; dishes The monastery is about a 25- to 30- Y9-28; h8am-11pm) Run by Angela, a super- minute walk from the bus station. Turn left helpful American woman, and her Tibetan out of the station and keep going until you husband Djarga, this fantastic new cafe reach the Tibetan neighbourhood. Then 224 wind your way uphill around the clay and Around Gānzī wooden houses. There are a number of Tibetan villages and monasteries in the fabulous countryside 4 Sleeping & Eating west of Gānzī. Jīntàiyáng Bīnguǎn HOTEL $ Perched attractively on a hill up a rutted 金太阳宾馆 % ( ; 752 5479; 53 Jiefang Jie; r with- dirt track, Beri Gompa (白利寺; Báilì Sì) is a OVERLAND ROUTES FROM SÌCHU out bathroom Y30-50, r with bathroom Y80; W) mid-sized monastery about 15km west of Simple but clean rooms sit around a court- town, on the road to Derge. On sunny days, yard out back. Round-the-clock hot water, its gold top sparkles against the deep blue even in the common bathrooms and, believe sky. The scenery from Gānzī to here is lovely or not, wi-fi ! (Not the quickest, mind.) Turn so you might consider hiking to the monas- left out of the station and it’s on your left. tery, stopping for a picnic en route and hik- Another building off Chuanzang Lu houses ing back to Gānzī. Turn left out of the bus smarter twins with bathrooms that usually station then take the fi rst left and follow the go for Y100, and also has wi-fi . Turn left out road over the bridge then along the river all of the station, take the fi rst right and it’s on the way, passing plenty of Tibetan villages your left through an archway. and temples en route. Otherwise, hitch a Golden Yak Hotel HOTEL $$ ride on any Derge-bound vehicle. ( 金牦牛酒店; Jīnmáoniú Jiǔdiàn; %752 2353; Further along the same road, about 30km Dajin Tan; r without/with hot water Y60/150) from Gānzī, is Darjay Gompa (大金寺; Dàjīn Ā This dependable chain has branches at a . This monastery was once home to more N Sì) than 3000 monks. Many were killed during NORTHERN ROUTE number of bus stations in western Sìchuān. This particular one has a main building at the Cultural Revolution; others escaped to the back of the bus station forecourt with India. Nowadays, around 300 monks reside standard doubles discounted to Y120 and here. They spend much of their time hav- a separate building across the forecourt ing animated, hand-slapping debates in housing enormous, but slightly shabby, the courtyard outside the main hall. Inside twin rooms with bathrooms but no hot the hall, you’ll fi nd large photos of the 14th water. Dalai Lama and, right at the back, a row of impressive 3m-tall Buddha images. You may Tibetan Restaurant TIBETAN $ have to get one of the monks to unlock the o 藏餐馆 ( ; Zàngcānguǎn; 47 Dajin Tan, 2nd door to the hall. h This wonder- fl ; dishes Y10-35; 7am-11pm) Travellers who wish to stay the night fully decorated teahouse/restaurant, just here and soak up the sumptuous scenery across from the bus station, is run by a local should consider the wonderfully located nun and is the main Tibetan hang-out in Dala Gong Guesthouse (see the box, p225 ), town. Sip butter tea, tuck into hearty plates a 10-minute walk from the monastery and of yak meat and get your hands covered just a short stroll from some hot springs. in dough as you attempt to mix your own To get to Darjay Gompa from Gānzī, ei- tsampa. English menu. ther grab a seat on the Derge-bound bus 8 Information (Y10, 45 minutes, 8.30am) or take a mini- bus (Y30). Note, the bus is often full and the Internet cafe (网吧; wǎngbā; per hr Y4; h24hr) Turn left out of the bus station and take the shared minibuses leave before it (around second road on your right. It’s on the 2nd fl oor. 7.30am). A private taxi will cost at least Y50 one way. Keen hikers could consider walk- 8 Getting There & Away ing here but it will take a whole day. Walk to Heading east, there’s one daily bus to Kāngdìng Beri Gompa and just keep going. (Y115, 11 hours, 6.30am) and one to Chéngdū (Y220, 18 hours, 6am). Heading west, a bus to Derge (Y66, eight to 10 hours), via Manigango Manigango 马尼干戈 (Y30, three hours), passes through here at % 9am, but it’s often full. Minibuses ply the same 0836 / ELEV 3800M Despite market stalls piled with yak innards route for Y10 to Y20 more, but leave before the bus arrives (between 7.30am and 8.30am). and crimson-robed monks on motorbikes, After 9am it’s hard to fi nd fellow passengers there’s not much going on in this dusty so you’ll either have to fork out for the whole two-street town halfway between Gānzī vehicle or hitch. and Derge. Nearby, though, is the stunning 225 DALA GONG GUESTHOUSE

Sick of staying in dusty market towns and seeing drop-dead-gorgeous scenery only through the window of a vehicle? Then you’ll adore Dala Gong Guesthouse (dm Y30, r with bathroom Y100). A 10-minute walk from Darjay Gompa, one of the area’s most revered monasteries, the small temple of Dala Gong is home to three friendly monks who welcome guests to OVERLANDNORTHERN ROUTE ROUTES FROM SÌCHU share their mud-brick, wood-beamed living quarters set among the prettiest scenery you can imagine – snowcapped mountains to one side; rolling grasslands and a river to the other. This place could well push your camera’s memory card to the limit. Climb up onto the roof for 360-degree views and to plot your next hike to one of the nearby villages, monasteries or mountains. Accommodation was dormitory-only when we stayed, and as basic as it gets, but two small modern blocks were being built in the courtyard at the time of research, promising private rooms with bathrooms and, wait for it…hot water! We shall see. & EATING SLEEPING If, as we suspect, the showers are cold, fear not – there are some free-to-use, open- air hot springs a fi ve-minute walk away over the other side of the river. Locals use them to wash themselves, their children, their clothes and sometimes even their motorbikes, but there’s plenty of room for everyone, so squeeze on in. The only food options are eating with the monks (off er them whatever money you Ā

feel is right). If you tire of eating nothing but tsampa three times a day (we’re not jok- N

ing), there’s a small shop (h8am-9pm) on the main road outside the monastery, which & EATING SLEEPING AROUND MANIGANGO sells drinks, snacks and instant noodles. To get to the guesthouse from Darjay Gompa, walk for 10 minutes along the only track that leads away from the back entrance of the monastery. turquoise Yilhun Lha-tso, which has great on off er include beef noodle squares (牛肉面 hiking and camping possibilities. 片; niúròu miànpiàn; Y8) and glass noodles The town is known in Chinese as Yùlóng with beef (牛肉粉条; niúròu fěntiáo; Y8). or Mǎnígāngē, but it’s most commonly re- The shǒuzhuā yángròu (手抓羊肉; Y35 per ferred to by its Tibetan name, Manigango. jīn) is the restaurant’s speciality lamb dish. One jīn (500g) is enough for one person. It’s 4 Sleeping & Eating at the town crossroads. Mǎnígāngē Pàní Hotel HOTEL $$ 8 ( 马尼干戈怕尼酒店; Mǎnígāngē Pàní Jiǔdiàn; Information 网吧 dm Y10-20, tw without/with bathroom Y80/160) Internet cafe ( ; wǎngbā; per hr Y5; hnoon- This good hotel has become the town’s 11pm) About 100m along the lane opposite centre of gravity with its car park used as Mǎnígāngē Pàní Hotel. the unoffi cial bus station and its buff et- 8 Getting There & Away style restaurant the most popular lunch A daily bus to Derge (Y40, three to four hours) stop for passing motorists. Sleeping-wise passes through Manigango at about 11am, but is there are rooms for everyone, from dirt- often full. Going the other way, there are usually cheap fi ve-bed dorms to really quite decent some empty seats on the Gānzī-bound bus (Y30, twins with bathrooms and hot water (8pm three to four hours), which passes by at a similar to 11pm only) that go for Y130 when it’s time. Catch both from Mǎnígāngē Pàní Hotel. quiet. The restaurant (vegetable/meat dish- Plenty of minibuses congregate outside es Y10/15; h7am-11pm) has an easy-to-order, Mǎnígāngē Pàní Hotel waiting to scoop up bus- point-and-choose buff et with surprisingly less passengers. good results. Qīngzhēn Gānsù Líntán Fàndiàn MUSLIM $ Around Manigango ( 清真甘肃临潭饭店; noodles from Y8; h8am- YILHUN LHA-TSO 新路海 11pm) This popular Muslim restaurant run by a friendly guy from Gānsù province The fabulous turquoise-blue waters of Yil- makes a nice change from Sichuanese or Ti- hun Lha-tso (Xīnlù Hǎi; admission Y20), a betan. There’s no menu, but noodle dishes holy alpine lake 13 kilometres southwest of Manigango, are the main reason most trav- There are more than 217,000 engraved 226 ellers stop in this area. The stunning lake blocks of Tibetan scriptures here from all is bordered by chörten and dozens of rock the Tibetan Buddhist orders, including carvings, and is framed by snowcapped Bön. These texts include ancient works mountains. You can walk an hour or two up about astronomy, geography, music, medi- the left (east) side of the lakeshore for views cine and Buddhist classics, including two of of the nearby glacier. the most important Tibetan sutras. A his-

OVERLAND ROUTES FROM SÌCHU This is also a great place to camp – some tory of Indian Buddhism, comprising 555 travellers have even slept in caves here – al- wood-block plates in Hindi, Sanskrit and though you’ll need to bring your own equip- Tibetan, is the only surviving copy in the ment and guard against mosquitoes. You world. may be hit with a Y15 tent-pitching charge. Within the monastery, dozens of work- Monks from Darjay Gompa sometimes ers hand-produce over 2500 prints to or- camp here during the summer in colourful der each day, as ink, paper and blocks fl y Tibetan nomad tents. through the workers’ hands at lightning To get here, you can either nab a seat in speed. In one side room you’ll fi nd an older a Derge-bound minibus (Y20), hitch a ride crowd of printers who produce larger and or hike. The lake is a fi ve-minute walk from more complex prints of Tibetan gods on pa- the main road, along a signposted track. per or coloured cloth. Motorbikes (Y20) wait to take you back to You can also examine storage chambers, Manigango. paper-cutting rooms and the main hall of

Ā the monastery itself, protected from fi re N and earthquakes by the guardian goddess NORTHERN ROUTE Derge 德格 Drölma (Tara). There are some nice murals %0836 / ELEV 3270M in the two ground-fl oor chapels, so bring a Your bumpy bus rides just got bumpier. torch. Derge, or Dégé in Chinese, is cut off from You aren’t allowed to take photos in the the rest of western Sìchuān by the tower- storerooms or the main hall, but the work- ing Chola Mountain, and to get here from ers were happy for us to snap away while the east you will probably have to endure a they worked frantically to meet their quota. highly uncomfortable, slightly scary three- To get here, turn right out of the bus hour minibus ride along a dirt track that station then left over the bridge and keep goes up and over the 5050m Tro-La pass. walking up the hill. Here, Tibetans on board will throw co- Other Monasteries loured prayer paper out the window and If you continue following the road up the chant something that you can only hope hill beyond the printing house, you’ll reach will carry you all to safety. Gonchen Gompa, which is over 1000 years Unless you’ve managed to secure the cor- old. At the time of research it was still rect permits to enter the rarely travelled closed for major renovations (which had Chamdo prefecture of Tibet proper, the been going on for more than two years!) so only reason you’ll have made the arduous just how much of the original building will trek out here is to see Derge’s famous print- be left once the work’s completed is any- ing monastery. It may only be one reason, body’s guess. but it’s reason enough: this is one of the re- High in the mountains to the south and gion’s stellar sights. east of Derge are several other monaster- ies, including Pelpung Gompa, Dzongsar 1 Sights Gompa and Pewar Gompa. To head out oBakong Scripture Printing Press this way, try to get a seat in a minibus leav- & Monastery MONASTERY ing from outside the bus station. ( 德格印经院; Dégé Yìnjīngyuàn; www.degepark hang.org; admission Y50; h8.30am-noon & Sleeping & Eating This striking 18th-century mon- 4 2-6.30pm) Héxié Hotel HOTEL $$ astery houses one of western Sìchuān’s star (Héxié Lǚguǎn; 和谐旅馆; %822 6111; Chama- attractions: a fascinating printing press shang Jie; tw Y200-250) A friendly Tibetan- that still uses traditional wood-block print- run hotel with a homely feel to it, spacious ing methods and that houses an astonish- carpeted rooms come with coat stand, hot- ing 70% of Tibet’s literary heritage. water fl ask and pinewood table and chairs, while the comfy beds have clean sheets and warm puff y duvets. Bathrooms are shared SOUTHERN ROUTE 227 but have 24-hour hot-water showers. Best The southern section of the Sìchu ān–Tibet of all are the discounts: rooms normally go Hwy (Hwy 318) is shorter and less remote for Y60, and sometimes for as little as Y40, (relatively speaking, of course), so is more making this the best-value stay in Derge. commonly used both by travellers (especial- Turn left out of the bus station and it’s on ly those who decide to cycle out this way)

your left after fi ve minutes. and pilgrims (who you’ll pass from time OVERLANDSOUTHERN ROUTE ROUTES FROM SÌCHU to time as they prostrate their way slowly Róngmài Ángzhā Bīnguǎn HOTEL $$ along the main road, often walking as far 绒麦昂扎宾馆 ( ; Chamashang Jie; dm Y30, tw as Lhasa). The private rooms with showers, from Y188) Travel here takes you through vast grass- some overlooking the river, are of decent lands dotted with Tibetan block homes quality and can be nabbed for Y120. The and contentedly grazing yaks, while ma- three-bed dorms are clean and reasonably jestic peaks tower beyond. While journey- spacious and come with a TV. The common ing along this route is slightly easier than bathrooms, though, don’t have showers. On 8 taking the northern route, it’s still not for the right before Héxié Hotel. the faint-hearted: road conditions vary Kāngbā Zàngcān TIBETAN $ from rough to rougher and, just like on the ( 康巴藏餐; Chamashang Jie; dishes Y10-35; northern route, cold weather and altitude hmidday-midnight) The decor is half-Tibetan can be an issue.

and half-African safari, but the food and the Ā clientele are as Tibetan as it gets. There’s N butter tea, Tibetan yoghurt, Tibetan dump- Lithang 理塘 8 LITHANG lings and various yak-meat dishes includ- %0836 / ELEV 4014M ing a hearty yak pie (牛肉饼; níuròu bìng; Lithang, pronounced Lǐtáng in Chinese, Y20). Tsampa (Y5) isn’t on the menu, but is claims to be the world’s highest town. It of course available. No English menu. No isn’t. That accolade is shared by Wēnquán English sign. No English spoken. Turn left in Qīnghǎi province and La Rinconada out of the bus station and it’s on your right in Peru, both of which stand at a wheeze- on the 2nd fl oor. inducing 5100m. Nevertheless, at a dizzying There are several small restaurants and altitude of 4014m, Lithang is still exception- noodle shops near the bus station. ally high, so be sure to look out for signs of altitude sickness. 8 Information The surrounding scenery will certainly Internet cafe (网吧; wǎngbā; per hr Y3; leave you breathless, and there are great op- h8.30am-midnight) Turn right out of the bus portunities to get out and see it – whether station, left over the bridge and down steps to by horse, motorbike or simply hiking – your right. Entrance is just past the pool hall. making this a decent place to spend a couple of days. 8 Getting There & Away Lithang is famed as the birthplace of Just one daily eastbound bus leaves from here, the seventh and 10th Dalai Lamas, but the at 7.30am, heading for Kāngdìng (Y179, next-day town’s large monastery, Chöde Gompa, is arrival) via Manigango (Y41, three hours), Gānzī the most absorbing sight. In the hills behind (Y68, six hours) and Lúhuò, where it stops for the monastery is a sky burial site, which is the night. Otherwise, there are minibuses. often visited by travellers. There’s normally a daily bus to Jomda (江 In the 1950s, Lithang was one of the main 达; Jiāngdá) in Tibet proper, from where you areas of Tibetan armed resistance to the can catch onward transport to Chamdo and Chinese occupation and, in 1956, the Chi- Lhasa, but foreigners haven’t been allowed to nese army bombed Chöde Gompa. ride public transport in Chamdo prefecture for many years, so you will almost certainly have to 1 Sights & Activities had to pre-arrange a private vehicle in advance At the northern end of town you will fi nd if you want to cross the border here. You will, of the large (长青春科尔寺; course, need a Tibet permit. There is a check- Chöde Gompa post at this border crossing. Chángqīngchūn Kē’ěr Sì), a monastery built for the third Dalai Lama. Inside is a A shared minivan from Derge to Lhasa costs around Y600 per person and takes two days. statue of Sakya Thukpa (Sakyamuni) that is believed to have been carried from Lhasa 4 Sleeping & Eating 228 by foot. Don’t miss climbing onto the roof Potala Inn YOUTH HOSTEL $$ of the furthest right of the three main halls o ( 布达拉大酒店; Bùdálā Dàjiǔdiàn; %532 for great views of the Tibetan homes lead- 2533; dm Y25-35, tw Y140-180; iW) Run by an ing up to the monastery and the grasslands English-speaking Tibetan woman called and mountains beyond. Monks climb up Metok, this large hostel has a mixed bag of here every day to sound the temple’s long rooms, ranging from basic bunk-bed dorms

OVERLAND ROUTES FROM SÌCHU horns. To get here, walk past the post offi ce, to Tibetan-style twins with bathrooms. turn left at the end of the road then take Pretty much everything is on off er here – the fi rst right. hiking, horse trekking, sky-burial visits, Báit ǎ (白塔) is a 33m-tall chörten that bike rental – but what makes this place worshippers seem to be perpetually cir- stand out from the crowd is its excellent wi- cling as they recite mantras and spin prayer fi -enabled 2nd-fl oor cafe, which wouldn’t wheels. You can join the locals hanging out seem out of place in Běijīng. Those without in the surrounding park. Turn left out of the laptops can get online on the ground fl oor bus station and just keep walking. (Y4 per hour). Turn left from the bus sta- There are hot springs (温泉; wēnquán; tion and it’s on the right, set back from the admission Y15) 4km west of the centre. Keep main street. walking past Báitǎ. Hiking opportunities abound outside Peace Guesthouse YOUTH HOSTEL $ 和平酒店 % of town. The hills behind the monastery ( ; Hépíng Jiǔdiàn; 532 1100, 152 8360 5821; dm/tw Y20/40; iW) A favourite Ā are one fi ne option. For more ideas, talk to

N with Israeli travellers, this friendly and no- Mr Zheng at Tiantian Restaurant, or to the SOUTHERN ROUTE nonsense hostel, run by helpful English- English-speaking managers at either Potala speaking manager Longlife, has large, Inn or Peace Guesthouse. clean, albeit basic rooms and a small cafe. Potala Inn can also help organise horse Turn right out of the bus station and walk trekking, while Peace Guesthouse can ar- 50m up the hill. range renting motorbikes for the day. Lǐtáng has a sky burial site just behind Tiantian Restaurant FUSION $ the monastery. Sky burials are usually held ( 天天饭食; Tiāntiān Fànshí; %135 4146 7941; 108 on Wednesdays, Fridays and Sundays, and Xingfu Donglu; dishes Y12-40; h7.30am-11pm; travellers have reported being made to feel W) The ever-friendly, English-speaking very welcome. If you do attend a sky burial, ace chef Mr Zheng has moved his popular though, be sure to remember exactly what travellers’ haven across the road to a larger you are watching and treat the ceremony location. Look for the Lonely Planet logo. and all those involved with the utmost re- The same good food – a mix of Chinese, Ti- spect. For more details, ask Longlife, the betan and Western – is still on off er, as is manager of Peace Guesthouse, or Mr Zheng the excellent fresh coff ee and reliable travel at Tiantian Restaurant. advice. Turn left out of the bus station and it’s on your left after 10 minutes. z Festivals & Events One of the biggest and most colourful Ti- 8 Information betan festivals, the annual Lithang Horse Internet cafe (网吧; wǎngbā; Tuanjie Lu; per Festival, includes horse racing, stunt rid- hr Y5; h8.30am-midnight) Next to the post ing, dance competitions and an arts-and- office. crafts fair. Post office (邮局; yóujú; Tuanjie Lu; h9- At the time of research, the festival was 11.30am & 2-5.30pm) Turn left out of the bus still being suspended following a protest at station then right at main crossroads. the 2007 event from a local activist calling for the release of Gedhun Choekyi Nyima, 8 Getting There & Away who went missing in 1995, at the age six, Lithang’s bus station, at the town’s east end, has after the 14th Dalai Lama had named him buses to Kāngdìng (Y87, eight hours, 6.30am), as his choice for the next Panchen Lama. Xīndūqiáo (Y63, six hours, 6.30am) and Bathang The festival usually starts on 1 August (Y63, 3½ hours, 3pm). Times are unpredict- and lasts several days, but check at the hos- able so double check. It’s normally easy to bag tels in Kāngdìng or Chéngdū for the current Kāngdìng or Xīndūqiáo tickets (same bus), but situation. the others are through buses, so are often full by the time they get here. Minibuses hang around ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd outside the bus station to save to the day. riverside chörten and a hilltop covered in There’s an OK road north to Gānzī, but no public prayer fl ags off ering views of the town. 229 buses ply the route so you’ll have to try your luck Hotels and restaurants abound in with the minibuses. Bathang. Jīnsuì Bīnguǎn (金穗宾馆; %562 2700; 1 Ba’an Lu; dm Y30, tw Y100-280) is an old standby with basic rooms. Ones at the back Bathang 巴塘 are quieter and face Tibetan homes. Twins % 0836 / ELEV 2589M are discounted to Y60 or Y100. Turn left out OVERLAND ROUTESSOUTHERN FROM ROUTE SÌCHU 8 Just around 32km from the Tibetan border, of the bus station and take the fi rst right Bathang (pronounced Bātáng in Chinese) is after the hard-to-miss golden eagle. one of Sìchuān’s main gateways into Tibet On mild evenings you can fi nd excellent proper. Foreigners will need to have all their roadside Sìchuān barbecues (烧烤; shāokǎo; paperwork in order, of course, but it is easy per skewer Y1). For something more Tibetan, to catch minibuses from here to Markham try Xuěyǔ Zàngcān (雪雨藏餐; dishes from or even Lhasa. Bathang itself has a welcom- Y5; h8.30am-11pm). Dishes include Tibetan ing monastery, while outside the town are noodles, yak dumplings, tsampa and yak- lovely suburbs of ochre-coloured Tibetan butter tea. Turn left out of the bus station houses. Bathang is much lower than sur- and it’s soon on your left. rounding areas, so when it’s late winter in Lǐtáng, it’s already spring here. 8 Information The Gelugpa monastery Chöde Gaden 网吧 (康宁寺; Kāngníng Sì) Internet cafe ( ; wǎngbā; per hr Y3; Pendeling Gompa Ā h9am-midnight) Turn left out of the bus sta- was undergoing heavy renovations at the N tion then right at the golden eagle statue and time of research, but is usually well worth 8 BATHANG keep going to the end. a visit. There are three rooms behind the main hall: a protector chapel, giant statue of Jampa and a 10,000 Buddha room. Up some 8 Getting There & Away stairs via a separate entrance is a room for All public buses are eastbound and leave the Panchen Lama, lined with photos of Bathang’s bus station at 6am. You can go to exiled local lamas who now reside in India. Lǐtáng (Y58, 3½ hours), Xīndūqiáo (Y121, 10½ hours), Kāngdìng (Y140, 12 hours) and even Most images here are new, but one upstairs Chéngdū (Y245, one day). The Chéngdū bus is statue of Sakya Thukpa is claimed to be not a sleeper bus, though. 2000 years old. To get here, continue down Tibet proper is served by shared mini- the hill from Jīnsuì Bīnguǎn. buses that congregate at the crossroads just There are some fi ne walks around town, down from Jīnsuì Bīnguǎn. Markham (芒康; including a lovely Tibetan hillside village, a Mángkāng; Y50, 2½ hours) and Lhasa (拉萨; Lāsà; Y500, two days) are popular destinations.

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