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Home , Chola Mountains, Qinghai

● JAPANESE ALPINE NEWS 2014

TAMOTSU (TOM) NAKAMURA A Journey Qinghai- 4,500 km June 2013 – Illusion in Headwaters and Enchantments in Highlands –

I returned home on June 26, 2013, from 3 weeks 4,500 km journey through eastern : West Sichuan-Qinghai. Unfortunately the first objective to explore hidden and untrodden peaks and glaciers in the remotest Mekong River headwaters was not attained, since a horse caravan could not be organized because almost all nomads had gone out for digging caterpillar fungus. In spite of my Tibetan guide Awang's two days efforts to find nomads to help us at the 4,700 – 4,800m high headwaters, we had to give up gathering horses and horse keepers. Nevertheless, an outcome of the journey was of enough and abundant harvests.

1. Chola Shan East massif, Sichuan (future climbing field) 2. Rock peaks in upper Mekong near Zadoi, Qinghai (future climbing field) 3. The Mekong River source and headwaters, Qinghai 4. The source and headwaters of the , Qinghai 5. Amnye Machen massif, North and East face, Qinghai 6. Breathtaking rock peaks range of Nyainbo Yuze, Qinghai 7. Serthar (Seda) Buddhists Institute (largest academy in ), Sichuan

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Members and Itinerary 4,500 km

An elderly pair, Tom Nakamura (78) and Tadao Shintani (69) were the same members as before. A capable Tibetan guide (good English speaking) Awang (36), a Tibetan cook (43),Tshering, two Han drivers, You hong wei (45) and Zhang qi juu (40) joined us. Two Mitsubishi Pajero were used.

June 7: Cloudy, Lv. 8:00 – Ar. Kangding 2,500 m 15:30 June 8: Cloudy, 07:00 15 °C, Lv. Kangding 07:35 – Chetoshan Pass 4,298 m – Kangding Airport 4,250 m – Tagong Grasslands – Ar. Ganzi 3,400 m 16:40 June 9: Rain / cloudy / fine, Ganzi 07:00 8 °C, Lv. Ganzi 07:30 – Manugango – Sichuan / Qinghai border pass 4,700 m – Ar. Yushu 3,650 20:10 June 10: Fine, Yushu 07:00 1 °C, visit to Jeku Monastery June 11: Fine, Yushu 07:00 2°C, Lv. Yushu 08:30 – Border with Zadoi County 4,250 m – Changlashan Pass 4,712 m – Ar. Zadoi 4,020 m 15:00 June 12: Fine, Zadoi 0:700 0 °C, Lv. Zadoi 08:00 – crossed 11 high passes 4,500 – 4,800 m – Ar. Hongse village 4,700 m 15:30 (base for heading to Mekong Headwaters) June 13: Cloudy, Hongse 07:00 minus 2 °C, Efforts to gather horses in vain June 14: Cloudy, Hongse 07:00 2 °C, Lv. Hongse 07:30 – access to Mekong headwaters (for tourists) – Zaqing 4,260 m – Ar. Zadoi 16:00 June 15: Cloudy / fine, Zadoi 07:00 7 °C, Lv. Zadoi 07:50 – Ar. Yushu 16:30 June 16: Fine, Yushu 07:00 7 °C, Lv. Yushu 07:30 – Three Rivers Park – Bayanharshan Pass 4,824 m – Ar. Madoi 4,220 m 16:00 June 17: Fine, Madoi 07:00 9 °C, Lv. Madoi 08:00 – Yellow River source-Lake Ngoring 4,250 m – Ar. Madoi 14:45 June 18: Fine/cloudy, Madoi 07:00 7 °C, Lv. Madoi 07:30 – panorama north face of Amnye Machen massif – Xueshan village 3,780 m – Ar. Maqin 3,780 m 17:45 June 19: Rain / fine / cloudy, Maqin 07:00 9 °C, Lv. Maqin 07:30 – Qingqinshan Pass 4,382 m – Gandu 4,040 m – Dari 3,980 m – Bayu 3,830 m – Longgeshan Pass 4,398 m (panorama NW June 20: face of Nyaibo Yuze range – Ar. Nyainbo Yuze Cottage 4,100 16:00 Cloudy, Cottage 07:00 5 °C, Lv. Cottage 07:30 – lookout point of Lake & east face of June 21: Nyainbo Yuze – Bayu – Ar. Pema 3,560 m 13:30 Rain / cloudy, Pema 07:00 13 °C, Lv. Pema – Pass 4,510 m – Border Qinghai-Sichuan 3,750 m – Seda (Serthar) 3,860 m – Serthar Buddhist Institute 3,800 – 4,200 m – Ar. Institute June 22: Guest House 3,925 m 14:00 Rain / cloudy / rain, Guest House 07:00 6 °C, Lv. Guest House 07:00 – Ar. Barkam 2,630 m 15:15 June 23: Cloudy, Barkam 07:00 13 °C, Lv. Barkam 08:00 – Ar. Chengdu 14:00

Uncertain Frontier in a hive of West Development Drive

Construction of dams and new roads with tunnels is progressing along the Dadu He river basin from Ximien to Kangding/Danba. Mountain slopes and surroundings are being mercilessly destructed. Kanding town is developing very fast as ever and a new airport at 4,250 m near Cheto Shan Pass 4,298 m has started operation. A new by-pass road has been built from the airport to Tagong Monastery through beautiful grasslands pastured with and sheep. Incessant destructive construction is continuing in the frontier of the West Sichuan Highlands and Qinghai Province. New construction and refurbishing of monasteries are also in a full swing. You would be surprised to see the construction rush of monasteries wherever in the and Tibetan territories. Glittering monastery of Tagong, unique prayer flugs of Manugango lamasery, rapid expansion of historical

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Zogcheng Monastery in Sichuan and large scale of reconstruction of Jeku monastery in Qinghai heavily damaged by the earthquake in 2011 attract an attention of travelers. Over almost all the areas where the Tibetan nomads inhabit in eastern Tibet of Kham and Amdo, a drastic migration policy is forcibly being executed. New compound called as “New Village” with a compact and modern house is being built near town or close to main road. Nomads’ life style is fast changing. They stay in the new house in winter and live in a tent for pasturing in summer.

Our serious concern was a restriction on foreigners imposed by the public security bureau (PSB) since the last year in the counties where fire suicide of Tibetan monks had often taken place. To our luck, however, we were checked only one time between Ganzi and Manugango, a junction to Chola Shan Pass/Dege and Yushu of Qinghai. But we had to pay 400 RMB for two cars for the reason of excessive loads. (Officer first requested 4,000 RMB.)

The First Two Objectives – Ganzi to Yushu/Zadoi

Before reaching the main objective, the Mekong Headwaters, we had the other two objectives as afore-mentioned to reconnoiter the following peaks in the two areas, where reconnaissance and climbing have yet been done till today. They could be future alpine paradises:

Chola Shan East massif, Sichuan

Peaks north of Manugango between a road to Yushu and Sichuan-Tibet Highway (north) were partly explored and climbed by a Spanish team in 2011 (AAJ 2012, page 328 – 330). A photo is shown in the end of this text. 5,200 – 5,500 m rock peaks range south to north. Fortunately almost all peaks have been photographed and recorded. See map and pictures. The main peak, Chola Shan I 6,168 m, is now a popular mountain of commercial expedition organized by Chinese companies.

Rock peaks in the Upper Mekong near Zadoi, Qinghai

This area could not be specifically explained from a geographical point of view. However, if you travel from Yushu town to Zadoi in the upper Mekong, you will come across many alluring peaks though they are less than 6,000 m. See pictures.

(1) North of Yushu town between Yushu and border with Zadoi County: many 5,400 – 5,700 m impressive snow and rock peaks are viewed.

(2) Between Yushu / Zadoi county border and Dadoi town: There are two clusters of 5,200 – 5,400 m outstanding rock peaks to touch climbers. A panorama from Changlashan Pass 4,712 m is breathtaking. One massif has peaks closely seen from the Pass 4,712 m. The other massive is located closely east of Zadoi town through which the upper Mekong River flows west to east.

(3) Area surrounding Zadoi town has also many fascinating peaks 5,300 – 5,800 m but yet surveyed and paid no attention. They are viewed from a road Zaqing northwards to the Mekong headwaters

Yushu (Jyekundo) – Cross roads of early explorers

Yushu was an important cross road of the traffic to from the east. Famous explorers and missionaries stayed in or passed through Jyekundo towards west or east. Some of them are:- December 1881 – January 1882: Pundit “A – K”, British India

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May 1889: William Rockhill, an American diplomat November 1892 – January 1893: Miss. Annie Taylor, China Inland Mission, British May – June 1894: De Rhins and Grenard after reaching a Mekong river source, French September 1898: Dr. Suisie C. Rijnhart, a missionary of the Netherlands origin August 1900: Kolzoff, a Russian explorer April 1918: Erich Teichman, Britich Consular Officer May 1922: Brigadier George Pereira, British and Alexandra David-Neel, French

To the upper Mekong, Zadoi, and problems of “Caterpillar Fungus”

Fine weather continued. We headed to Zadoi from Yushu on June 11. A new airport 3,800 m 30 minutes north of Yushu town is in services. In one hour drive from the airport we crossed a pass of 4,504 m, passed a junction 4,250 m to Nangcheng and then we reached a check post in Shizu Station at the county border of Yushu and Zadoi. A problem arose here. All travelers were severely inspected at this check post not only by the Public Security polices but county officers and representatives of villagers. The reason of inspection is to prevent outsiders (non-residents of Zadoi County) from entering Zadoi to gather caterpillar fungus now sold in a very high price. June and July is the season of cropping. Broody fights and disputes are not unusual for guarding their own territory from the outsiders in eastern Tibet. We were forced to wait more than one and half hours at this check post. Zadoi town is known as a base for exploring the source and headwaters of the Mekong River. The surrounding landscape features beautiful the upper Mekong basin but the town itself is very dirty and uncomfortable to stay. During June to July, primary schools are closed for caterpillar fungus gathering and many street shops are shuttered. The same takes place in Nagchu too. My guide Awang says that inhabitants in Zadoi are unfriendly Khamba while Amdo people are friendly. On June 12, still fine, we departed from Zadoi northwards to Hongse at 4,700 m, one of 4 villages of Zaqing , which is a starting point to organize a horse caravan for heading to the main objective, untrodden and unknown large glaciers and many hidden 5,800 m peaks. They are recognized on the Chinese 1:100,000 topographical map and Google map as well. A road from Zadoi town crosses the Mekong to the north and directly ascends straight up to a 4,750 m pass to Zaqing District. Rock peaks seen eastwards are picturesque. There are the Qiajaima massif having the highest peak 5,930 m in the Mekong headwaters in the north of Zaqing. This peak was already climbed by a Japanese party in 2004. We further crossed 9 high passes of 4,400 – 4,700 m and arrived at Hongse (4,700 m, N33° 24.887’ E94° 36.433”) late afternoon. There are only one nomad house and Communist Party’ meeting office. We stayed in a white tent of the nomad family.

Illusion of Unknown Peaks and Glaciers

Our plan of explorations was drawn up in consultation with Mr. Masayuki Kitamura of the Tokyo University of . Kitamura is an expertise of the Mekong. He first reached the true source of the Mekong in 1994 and later accomplished the complete descent from the source to the river mouth in Vietnam. He recommended Hongse village to start a horse caravan to the destination. He advised two routes along river streams to reach the northern side of the area that we were to explore. As soon as we arrived at Hongse, we first asked a host of the nomad family to arrange for a horse caravan. But his reaction was discouraging. As Kitamura had given me a prior warning and we had been afraid, almost all horses and nomads in the vicinity went out to mountains for digging caterpillar fungus. We visited two nomads houses scattered far each other in widely open valley of the headwaters at 4,700 – 4,800 m hoping to find horses and horse keepers in vain. However, fascinating landscapes of plain valley, streams with remaining snow beds, 5,400 – 5,500 m rock and snow peaks

121 ● JAPANESE ALPINE NEWS 2014 and wild fauna such as water birds and deer allured and enchanted us to our satisfaction. The following day, June 13 was cloudy with soft sunbeams. We carried on seeking for horses. We drove along the southwestern foot of the mountains, beyond which there must be veiled peaks and glaciers of our objective. Nowhere horses were found and we had to resign to organize a caravan. Nomads told us that we should come in August after caterpillar fungus season of June and July is over, as enough horses are available and weather is warm and stable. On June 14, we returned to Zadoi and then to Yushu on June 15 for continuing a journey to the next stage. When writing this article, an email came from the Netherlands. A pair of Dutchman and Italian reported that they had reached a new source of the Mekong in Jifi Shan and sent me a picture of mountains of our objective taken southeastwards from the Jifi Shan. It is invaluable information to unveil the hidden mountains.

Bayanharshan and Source of the Yellow River

We proceeded to the next stage: (1) Bayanharshan and Yellow River headwaters (2) Amnye Machen massif (3) Mountains in Golok, Nyainbo Yuze (4) Serthar Buddhist Institute, Sichuan. We followed a road eastwards from Yushu on June 16. Here we saw a hive of the West Development Drive here too. A new highway construction from Yushu to was on going. The road soon crosses the upper , Tiantong He, and continues in 4,000 m high fertile grasslands towards the Bayanharshan Pass 4,824 m. Bayanharshan is a name of the main peak 5,262 m of long and huge Bayanharshan mountain range stretching northwest to southeast sharing the watershed of the Yellow River (Huang He) and the Yangtze River (Chang Jiang) in Qinghai Province. But the mountains are not high. The western rim is Yagradagze Shan 5,214 m and the eastern rim is an outstanding Nyainbo Yuze 5,369 m massif of the Golok Mountains. We stayed at Madoi 4,220 m, newly developed town, for two days to visit the Lake Ngoring 4,250 m of the Yellow River headwaters. Peaks of the Bayanharshan were seen beyond the turquoise blue lake of Ngoring with water birds and a herd of Yaks. The Bayanharshan 5,267 m was ascended by a Japanese party, members of the Japan-China Joint Yellow River Headwaters Expedition 1985. But the climbing team found a wooden turret on the top perhaps brought by nomads.

Amnye Machen having long been Mountains of Mystery

After visit to the Yellow River headwaters, on June 18 we headed to the Amnye Machen massif. Leaving the main road to Xining we entered a road to southeast for reconnoitering the Amnye Machen. Fortunately weather was not bad. First we saw a whole panorama of the north face, in the middle of which a gentle peak, highest Maqen Kangri I 6,282 m was recognized, and later we could identify all the peaks. Then we crossed a 4,500 m pass and drove down a valley of Weigela in the eastern side of the massif. Peak appeared after peak. We passed through Xueshan village 3,780 m and lodged at a sizeable town of Maqen, a county capital. It is well-known that Amnye Machen had long been “Mountains of Mystery” until the mid 19 th century. The first westerner to have seen the mountains was British Brigadier George Pereira. On the way from to Lhasa in 1922, he had a look from a distance and assumed its height to be some 7,500 m. Being inspired by Pereira’s information, an explorer – plant hunter, Joseph Rock organized an expedition sponsored by the National Geographic Society in 1929 and its record was published on the National Geographic Magazine – February 1930. The subject is [SEEKING THE MOUNTAINS OF MYSTERY An Expedition on the China-Tibet Frontier to the Unexplored Amnyi Machen Range, One of Whose Peaks Rivals Everest]. A paragraph is quoted as below:

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“After dangerous, difficult months, I reached the headwaters of the 2,000-miles long Yellow River and the towering, unexplored range of Amnyi Machen, twenty-eight thousand feet, or almost as high as Everest, its tallest peak lifts its snow-white head, majestic as the Matterhorn.” Joseph Rock’s expedition started Jone in Province and via the famous reached present Maqen in Qinghai Province. In 1949 an American pilot, L. Clerk accessed to Amnye Machen, an accurate altitude could not be measured. It was waited till the new China was constituted to unveil the Mountains of Mystery. In June 1960, the Beijing Geology Institute expedition made the first ascent of Maqen Kanrgi II 6,268 m. The Chinese party made a substantial survey and research for two months. They identified the highest peak and other peaks as under. Main summit – Maqen Kangri I 6,282 m II 6,268 m III 6,090 m IV 6,070 m V 5,966 m The Deng Xio Pini’ reform and open-door policy in late 1970 led to make climbing possible. On the 22 nd May in 1981 a Japanese party from Joetsu, Niigata, made the first ascent of the main summit Maqen Kangri I 6,282 m from the eastern side via Halon valley, and a German party climbed soon after. In autumn of 1984, a Japanese party from Nagano ascended Maqen Kangri II. In 1993 a Japanese party of Tottori University climbed Peak III Amnye Machen 6,090 m (This peak was first scaled in 1984 by the Geology University, China).

Golok and Nyaibo Yuze – Serthar Buddhists Institute

The Golok Tibetan of Qinghai is a region between two mountain ranges of Amnye Machen and Bayanharshan. 3,500 – 4,000 m gentle grasslands spread. The southern side of the Bayanharshan East forms a complicated topography with valleys that is connected to the in Sichuan. Climate is a type of cold and dry zone unique in the world. Annual average temperature is minus 4̊C, and annual rain fall is 500 – 700 mm. The other impression of Golok is that it used to be a notorious borderland of savage and brutal Tibetan. They sometimes attacked a trade caravan and even explorers. However it is now a peaceful land with fertile pastures to herd Yaks and magnificent monasteries. On June 19, we crossed four high passes of 4,200 – 4,500 m heading to Nyainbo Yuze. At 2:00 pm we stood at the Longgeshan Pass 4,398 m, the best lookout point of the northwest face of mighty rock peaks range of Nyainbo Yuze massif. It is a really breathtaking panorama. We were overwhelmingly touched by the landscape. Nyainbo Yuze is a local Tibetan name of the Golok Mountains. The massif is about 40 km south to north and 20 km east to west with deep valleys and many glacial lakes. Numerous granite rock peaks and pinnacles tower to sky ranging like the teeth of a saw. They may be compared to the rock peaks of Mt, Siguniang massif of the Qionglai Mountains in Sichuan. The northern side of the main summit 5,369 m with beautiful lake, Ximen Co, is now becoming a touristic spot and many Chinese are visiting. However, the other area, almost all of the massif remains unfrequented and must draw an attention as a climbing paradise in future like the Qionglai Mountains where climbers are rushing.

In 1989 a Japanese party from Kyoto attempted to climb the main summit 5,369 m from the lake, Ximen Co. The party set up a base camp above the southern end of the lake and followed a route along a glacier. Though they could not stand atop of the highest peak but climbed an adjacent Peak II a little bit lower. In 2009, a Chinese party attempted the main peak 5,369 m but was unsuccessful. In summer of 2011 they returned and succeeded in the ascent via the northeast face by three members.

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Nyainbo Yuze 5,369 m – Chinese climbing route on northeast face in summer of 2011 (Red line shows ascent and green line shows descent.)

A photo of the Chinese expedition is shown above.

On June 20, we left Nyainbo Yuze and took a return way via the Serthar Buddhist Institute, Sichuan. The Institute was opened for foreigners since this March. We spent an overnight on June 21 / 22 in a guest house of the Institute at 4,000 m. The institute is the largest Tibetan Buddhists Academy in China with 20,000 residents of lamas, teachers, monks, nuns and students being administrated by the government. The whole compound consisting of temples, schools and accommodations spreading over at 3,800 – 4,000 m in a valley are huge and spectacular. A mani-wheel symbol building is brilliantly lighted-up in the night. A wide yard with an awful tower is newly constructed outside the institute. We safely arrived at Chengdu on June 23.

[Supplements on Chola Shan East and Southeast]

1. Spanish Expedition 2011 to Chola Shan East

A Spanish team of Sergi Ricart made the first ascents of Acha-La Ri 5,000 m (31°55’ 40” N, 99°00’ 22” E) on October 2 and Ru Che Gangri 5,350 m (31°58’ 45” N, 99°00’ 54” E) on October 6. They attempted a peak of 5,243 m (30°56’ 59” N, 99°02’ 20” E) but gave up at 5,050 m on October 8.

Information source: PROJECTE D’EXPORACIOI PRIMERES ASCENSIONS, EN SOLITARI, PEL KHAM TIBETA Sergi Ricart Ibars

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Photo: Tom Nakamura

2. Spanish Expedition 2013 – Source of Mekong and West Sichuan

A Spanish team of Sergi Ricart, Dani Martin and Josito Fernadez first climbed several peaks in the Mekong Headwaters and West Sichuan Highlands. The following summary has been picked up from their report:

Information source: EXPLORAION PROJECT OF THE SOURCES OF THE MEKONG RIVER AND UNCLIMBED MOUNTAINS OF KHAM (TIBET) SPRING 2013

Chola Shan Southeast

1. Khai Ri 4,940 m in the southeastern part of the Chola Shan massif: They reached 4,930 m via northwest face on April 16, 2013. (almost first ascent) 2. Traverse Yolba-Manigango in the southeastern part of the Chola Shan massif. They made the first ascent of Tangarmaya Ri 5,063 m via southwest face on April 27, 2013. 3. Tsara Mashe Ri 5,150 m (20 km west of Ganzi town) in the Gangga massif was first climbed via west face on April 30, 2013.

Mekong Headwaters

They approached to the headwaters of the Mekong River westwards from Zhidoi and made the first ascent of Gujon Ri 5,490 m (33°42’ 18” N, 94°41’ 27” E) south of Saito Shan 5,632 m (Nakamura’s map) on May 13, 2013.

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Qinghai-Sichuan 4500km Photo Gallery 1. Chola Shan East: 5,200 – 5,500 m Rock Peaks East Face

5,300 – 5,400 m peaks close to Manucango

View from 4,500 m pass on Kham-Qinghai road Manucango Monastery

ca. 5,400 m peak ca. 5,400 m peak

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2. Rock peaks between Yushu and Zadoi

ca. 5,600 m north face northwest of Yushu Caterpillar fungus

ca. 5,300 m rock peaks massif in the mid way from Yushu to Zadoi

ca. 5,400 m peak ca. 5,300 m peak

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3. Remote Mekong headwaters

Stream in Mekong headwaters at about 4,800 m and 5,400 – 5,500 m peaks

5,300 – 5,400 m peaks near Hongse ca. 5,400 m peak seen from near Hongse

5,600 – 5,800 m peaks viewed to southeast from Jifu Shan, the true source of Mekong, Photo by Pieter Neele

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4. Upper Mekong and Yellow River headwaters

Upper Mekong east of Zadoi Upper Meking west of Zadoi

Monument of Yellow River headwaters

Lake Ngoring (Yellow River headwaters) and Bayanharshan far beyond

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5. Amnye Machen-Maqen Kangri

Panorama view of the north face of Maqen Kangri

Maqen Kangri II 6,268 m east face, Photo by Kunimitsu Sakai

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6. Fauna, Flora and People

A wild dear, Mekong headwaters Meconopsis, Yellow poppy, Maqen Kangri

Wild water birds, Mekong headwaters Tabargan, Maqen Kangri

A Golok Tibetan on a horse, Qinghai Modern Tibetan female in Seda town, Sichuan

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7. Serthar Buddhist Institute, Sichuan

Center of the Institute compound

Gathering of monks and students Lighting up of mani-wheel building

Sky burial yard under construction Vultures (eagles) coming to sky burial

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Kangri Garpo-1st ice fall: painted by Ken Yamada, The Alpine Club of Kobe University.

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