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A Journey Qinghai-Sichuan 4,500 Km June 2013 – Illusion in Mekong Headwaters and Enchantments in Highlands –

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A Journey Qinghai-Sichuan 4,500 Km June 2013 – Illusion in Mekong Headwaters and Enchantments in Highlands – ● JAPANESE ALPINE NEWS 2014 TAMOTSU (TOM) NAKAMURA A Journey Qinghai-Sichuan 4,500 km June 2013 – Illusion in Mekong Headwaters and Enchantments in Highlands – I returned home on June 26, 2013, from 3 weeks 4,500 km journey through eastern Tibet: West Sichuan-Qinghai. Unfortunately the first objective to explore hidden and untrodden peaks and glaciers in the remotest Mekong River headwaters was not attained, since a horse caravan could not be organized because almost all nomads had gone out for digging caterpillar fungus. In spite of my Tibetan guide Awang's two days efforts to find nomads to help us at the 4,700 – 4,800m high headwaters, we had to give up gathering horses and horse keepers. Nevertheless, an outcome of the journey was of enough and abundant harvests. 1. Chola Shan East massif, Sichuan (future climbing field) 2. Rock peaks in upper Mekong near Zadoi, Qinghai (future climbing field) 3. The Mekong River source and headwaters, Qinghai 4. The source and headwaters of the Yellow River, Qinghai 5. Amnye Machen massif, North and East face, Qinghai 6. Breathtaking rock peaks range of Nyainbo Yuze, Qinghai 7. Serthar (Seda) Buddhists Institute (largest academy in China), Sichuan 118 JOURNEYS AND EXPLORATIONS ● Members and Itinerary 4,500 km An elderly pair, Tom Nakamura (78) and Tadao Shintani (69) were the same members as before. A capable Tibetan guide (good English speaking) Awang (36), a Tibetan cook (43),Tshering, two Han drivers, You hong wei (45) and Zhang qi juu (40) joined us. Two Mitsubishi Pajero were used. June 7: Cloudy, Lv. Chengdu 8:00 – Ar. Kangding 2,500 m 15:30 June 8: Cloudy, 07:00 15 °C, Lv. Kangding 07:35 – Chetoshan Pass 4,298 m – Kangding Airport 4,250 m – Tagong Grasslands – Ar. Ganzi 3,400 m 16:40 June 9: Rain / cloudy / fine, Ganzi 07:00 8 °C, Lv. Ganzi 07:30 – Manugango – Sichuan / Qinghai border pass 4,700 m – Ar. Yushu 3,650 20:10 June 10: Fine, Yushu 07:00 1 °C, visit to Jeku Monastery June 11: Fine, Yushu 07:00 2°C, Lv. Yushu 08:30 – Border with Zadoi County 4,250 m – Changlashan Pass 4,712 m – Ar. Zadoi 4,020 m 15:00 June 12: Fine, Zadoi 0:700 0 °C, Lv. Zadoi 08:00 – crossed 11 high passes 4,500 – 4,800 m – Ar. Hongse village 4,700 m 15:30 (base for heading to Mekong Headwaters) June 13: Cloudy, Hongse 07:00 minus 2 °C, Efforts to gather horses in vain June 14: Cloudy, Hongse 07:00 2 °C, Lv. Hongse 07:30 – access to Mekong headwaters (for tourists) – Zaqing 4,260 m – Ar. Zadoi 16:00 June 15: Cloudy / fine, Zadoi 07:00 7 °C, Lv. Zadoi 07:50 – Ar. Yushu 16:30 June 16: Fine, Yushu 07:00 7 °C, Lv. Yushu 07:30 – Three Rivers Park – Bayanharshan Pass 4,824 m – Ar. Madoi 4,220 m 16:00 June 17: Fine, Madoi 07:00 9 °C, Lv. Madoi 08:00 – Yellow River source-Lake Ngoring 4,250 m – Ar. Madoi 14:45 June 18: Fine/cloudy, Madoi 07:00 7 °C, Lv. Madoi 07:30 – panorama north face of Amnye Machen massif – Xueshan village 3,780 m – Ar. Maqin 3,780 m 17:45 June 19: Rain / fine / cloudy, Maqin 07:00 9 °C, Lv. Maqin 07:30 – Qingqinshan Pass 4,382 m – Gandu 4,040 m – Dari 3,980 m – Bayu 3,830 m – Longgeshan Pass 4,398 m (panorama NW June 20: face of Nyaibo Yuze range – Ar. Nyainbo Yuze Cottage 4,100 16:00 Cloudy, Cottage 07:00 5 °C, Lv. Cottage 07:30 – lookout point of Lake & east face of June 21: Nyainbo Yuze – Bayu – Ar. Pema 3,560 m 13:30 Rain / cloudy, Pema 07:00 13 °C, Lv. Pema – Pass 4,510 m – Border Qinghai-Sichuan 3,750 m – Seda (Serthar) 3,860 m – Serthar Buddhist Institute 3,800 – 4,200 m – Ar. Institute June 22: Guest House 3,925 m 14:00 Rain / cloudy / rain, Guest House 07:00 6 °C, Lv. Guest House 07:00 – Ar. Barkam 2,630 m 15:15 June 23: Cloudy, Barkam 07:00 13 °C, Lv. Barkam 08:00 – Ar. Chengdu 14:00 Uncertain Frontier in a hive of West Development Drive Construction of dams and new roads with tunnels is progressing along the Dadu He river basin from Ximien to Kangding/Danba. Mountain slopes and surroundings are being mercilessly destructed. Kanding town is developing very fast as ever and a new airport at 4,250 m near Cheto Shan Pass 4,298 m has started operation. A new by-pass road has been built from the airport to Tagong Monastery through beautiful grasslands pastured with yaks and sheep. Incessant destructive construction is continuing in the frontier of the West Sichuan Highlands and Qinghai Province. New construction and refurbishing of monasteries are also in a full swing. You would be surprised to see the construction rush of monasteries wherever in the Kham and Amdo Tibetan territories. Glittering monastery of Tagong, unique prayer flugs of Manugango lamasery, rapid expansion of historical 119 ● JAPANESE ALPINE NEWS 2014 Zogcheng Monastery in Sichuan and large scale of reconstruction of Jeku monastery in Qinghai heavily damaged by the earthquake in 2011 attract an attention of travelers. Over almost all the areas where the Tibetan nomads inhabit in eastern Tibet of Kham and Amdo, a drastic migration policy is forcibly being executed. New compound called as “New Village” with a compact and modern house is being built near town or close to main road. Nomads’ life style is fast changing. They stay in the new house in winter and live in a tent for pasturing in summer. Our serious concern was a restriction on foreigners imposed by the public security bureau (PSB) since the last year in the counties where fire suicide of Tibetan monks had often taken place. To our luck, however, we were checked only one time between Ganzi and Manugango, a junction to Chola Shan Pass/Dege and Yushu of Qinghai. But we had to pay 400 RMB for two cars for the reason of excessive loads. (Officer first requested 4,000 RMB.) The First Two Objectives – Ganzi to Yushu/Zadoi Before reaching the main objective, the Mekong Headwaters, we had the other two objectives as afore-mentioned to reconnoiter the following peaks in the two areas, where reconnaissance and climbing have yet been done till today. They could be future alpine paradises: Chola Shan East massif, Sichuan Peaks north of Manugango between a road to Yushu and Sichuan-Tibet Highway (north) were partly explored and climbed by a Spanish team in 2011 (AAJ 2012, page 328 – 330). A photo is shown in the end of this text. 5,200 – 5,500 m rock peaks range south to north. Fortunately almost all peaks have been photographed and recorded. See map and pictures. The main peak, Chola Shan I 6,168 m, is now a popular mountain of commercial expedition organized by Chinese companies. Rock peaks in the Upper Mekong near Zadoi, Qinghai This area could not be specifically explained from a geographical point of view. However, if you travel from Yushu town to Zadoi in the upper Mekong, you will come across many alluring peaks though they are less than 6,000 m. See pictures. (1) North of Yushu town between Yushu and border with Zadoi County: many 5,400 – 5,700 m impressive snow and rock peaks are viewed. (2) Between Yushu / Zadoi county border and Dadoi town: There are two clusters of 5,200 – 5,400 m outstanding rock peaks to touch climbers. A panorama from Changlashan Pass 4,712 m is breathtaking. One massif has peaks closely seen from the Pass 4,712 m. The other massive is located closely east of Zadoi town through which the upper Mekong River flows west to east. (3) Area surrounding Zadoi town has also many fascinating peaks 5,300 – 5,800 m but yet surveyed and paid no attention. They are viewed from a road Zaqing northwards to the Mekong headwaters Yushu (Jyekundo) – Cross roads of early explorers Yushu was an important cross road of the traffic to Lhasa from the east. Famous explorers and missionaries stayed in or passed through Jyekundo towards west or east. Some of them are:- December 1881 – January 1882: Pundit “A – K”, British India 120 JOURNEYS AND EXPLORATIONS ● May 1889: William Rockhill, an American diplomat November 1892 – January 1893: Miss. Annie Taylor, China Inland Mission, British May – June 1894: De Rhins and Grenard after reaching a Mekong river source, French September 1898: Dr. Suisie C. Rijnhart, a missionary of the Netherlands origin August 1900: Kolzoff, a Russian explorer April 1918: Erich Teichman, Britich Consular Officer May 1922: Brigadier George Pereira, British and Alexandra David-Neel, French To the upper Mekong, Zadoi, and problems of “Caterpillar Fungus” Fine weather continued. We headed to Zadoi from Yushu on June 11. A new airport 3,800 m 30 minutes north of Yushu town is in services. In one hour drive from the airport we crossed a pass of 4,504 m, passed a junction 4,250 m to Nangcheng and then we reached a check post in Shizu Station at the county border of Yushu and Zadoi. A problem arose here. All travelers were severely inspected at this check post not only by the Public Security polices but county officers and representatives of villagers. The reason of inspection is to prevent outsiders (non-residents of Zadoi County) from entering Zadoi to gather caterpillar fungus now sold in a very high price.
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