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Footwear and Shoemaking in Turku in the Middle Ages and at the Beginning of the Early Modern Period

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Footwear and Shoemaking in Turku in the Middle Ages and at the Beginning of the Early Modern Period Janne Harjula Before the Heels Footwear and Shoemaking in Turku in the Middle Ages and at the Beginning of the Early Modern Period Archaeologia Medii Aevi Finlandiae XV Suomen keskiajan arkeologian seura – Sällskapet för medeltidsarkeologi i Finland Janne Harjula Before the Heels Footwear and Shoemaking in Turku in the Middle Ages and at the Beginning of the Early Modern Period Suomen keskiajan arkeologian seura Turku Editorial Board: Anders Andrén, Knut Drake, David Gaimster, Georg Haggrén, Markus Hiekkanen, Werner Meyer, Jussi-Pekka Taavitsainen and Kari Uotila Editor Janne Harjula Language revision Colette Gattoni Layout Jouko Pukkila Cover design Janne Harjula and Jouko Pukkila Published with the kind support of Emil Aaltonen Memorial Fund and Fingrid Plc Cover image Reconstruction of a medieval shoemaker’s workshop. Produced for an exhibition introducing the 15th and 16th centuries. Technical realization: Schweizerisches Waffeninstitut Grandson. Photograph: K. P. Petersen. © 1987 Museum für Vor- und Frühgeschichte SMPK Berlin. Back cover images Children’s shoes from excavations in Turku. Janne Harjula/Turku Provincial Museum. ISBN: ISSN: 1236-5882 Saarijärven Offset Oy Saarijärvi 2008 5 CONTENTS Preface 9 Introduction 11 Questions and the definition of the study 12 Research history 13 Material and methodology 17 PART I: FOOTWEAR 21 1. SHOE TYPES IN TURKU 21 1.1 One-piece shoes 22 1.1.1 The type definition and research history of one-piece shoes in Turku 22 1.1.2 The number and types of one-piece shoes 22 1.1.2.1 Cutting patterns of one-piece shoes 22 1.1.2.2 Thong slots and thongs 24 1.1.3 The distribution and dating of one-piece shoes 24 1.1.4 Summary 25 1.2 Thong shoes (Goubitz type 10) 25 1.2.1 The type definition and research history of thong shoes in Turku 25 1.2.2 The number and types of thong shoes 26 1.2.2.1 Low-cut thong shoes 26 1.2.2.2 Ankle thong shoes 28 1.2.3 The distribution and dating of thong shoes 28 1.2.4 Summary 31 1.3 Instep-toggle fastened/instep strap fastened shoes (Strap shoes, Goubitz types 35 and 40) 31 1.3.1 The type definition and research history of strap shoes in Turku 31 1.3.2 The number and types of strap shoes 33 1.3.2.1 Instep-toggle fastened shoes 33 1.3.2.2 Instep strap fastened shoes 34 1.3.3 The distribution and dating of strap shoes 34 1.3.3.1 Chronological and geographical relationship between low strap shoes and ankle strap shoes 36 1.3.4 Summary 37 1.4 Tailed-toggle fastened shoes (Goubitz type 75) 38 1.4.1 The type definition and research history of tailed-toggle fastened shoes in Turku 38 1.4.2 The number and types of tailed-toggle fastened shoes 39 1.4.3 The distribution and dating of tailed-toggle fastened shoes 40 1.4.4 Summary 41 1.5 Side-laced shoes (Goubitz type 50) 41 1.5.1 The type definition and research history of side-laced shoes in Turku 41 1.5.2 The number and types of side-laced shoes 42 1.5.3 The distribution and dating of side-laced shoes 43 1.5.4 Summary 45 6 1.6 Front-laced shoes (Goubitz types 60, 65 and 70) 46 1.6.1 The type definition and research history of front-laced shoes in Turku 46 1.6.2 The number and types of front-laced shoes 47 1.6.2.1 Tie-lace fastening (Goubitz types 70 and 65) 47 1.6.2.2 Frontal lace-up fastening (Goubitz type 60) 49 1.6.3 The distribution and dating of front-laced shoes 50 1.6.4 Summary 52 1.7 Buckled shoes (Goubitz type 85) 52 1.7.1 The type definition and research history of buckled shoes in Turku 52 1.7.2 The number and types of buckled shoes 53 1.7.2.1 The closed style 53 1.7.2.2 The open style 55 1.7.3 The distribution and dating of buckled shoes 55 1.7.4 Summary 57 1.8 Boots (Goubitz type 95) 57 1.8.1 The type definition and research history of boots in Turku 57 1.8.2 The number and types of boots 58 1.8.3 The distribution and dating of boots 58 1.8.4 Summary 58 1.9 Combined fastenings in shoes (Goubitz type 100) 59 1.9.1 Summary 60 1.10 Pattens (Goubitz type 110) 60 1.10.1 The type definition and research history of pattens in Turku 60 1.10.2 The number and types of pattens 62 1.10.2.1 Wooden soles 62 1.10.2.2 Footstraps 64 1.10.2.3 Toe caps 65 1.10.3 The distribution and dating of pattens 65 1.10.4 Summary 65 1.11 Shoes of the Early Modern Period 67 1.11.1 Changing fashion - Changing techniques 67 1.11.2 Lists of wages from castles as a source material 68 1.11.3 Archaeological finds of Early Modern Period shoes in Turku 69 1.11.3.1 Finds from the town area 70 1.11.3.2 Finds from Turku Castle 73 1.11.4 Summary 74 2. COMPARISON OF DIFFERENT SHOE TYPES BY SITES 74 2.1 The ldO Great Market Place 74 2.2 The Åbo Akademi main building site 75 2.3 The dating of the shoe types in the other sites in Turku 76 3. SOCIAL INFERENCES ON SHOES 77 3.1. Shoe sizes 77 3.1.1 Men, women, children - measuring the shoe soles 77 3.1.2 Shoe sizes among different types of shoes 79 3.1.2.1 One-piece shoes 79 3.1.2.2 Thong shoes 80 3.1.2.3 Instep-toggle fastening/instep strap fastening 80 3.1.2.4 Tailed-toggle fastening 81 3.1.2.5 Side-laced shoes 81 3.1.2.6 Front-laced shoes 81 3.1.2.7 Buckled shoes 81 3.1.2.8 Boots 81 3.1.2.9 Pattens 82 3.1.2.10 Early Modern Period shoes 82 3.2 Children’s shoes 82 7 3.3 Men’s and women’s shoes 83 3.4 Summary 84 4. SHOES AS OBJECTS OF CHANGING FASHIONS 85 4.1 Shoe types in Turku vs. European fashion 85 4.1.1 Thong shoes 86 4.1.2 Strap shoes 88 4.1.3 Tailed-toggle fastened shoes 89 4.1.4 Side-laced shoes 89 4.1.5 Front-laced shoes 91 4.1.6 Buckled shoes 92 4.1.7 Boots 93 4.1.8 Pattens 95 4.1.9 One-piece shoes 97 4.1.10 Early Modern Period shoes 101 4.2 Style phenomena not connected to one shoe type 102 4.2.1 Extended tips in shoes 102 4.2.1.1 Extended tips in Turku shoes 104 4.2.2 ‘Suede’ shoes 105 4.2.3 Decoration of shoes 106 4.2.3.1 Openwork decoration of vamps 107 4.2.3.2 Decoration of foot openings of shoes 108 4.2.3.3 Decoration of patten straps and toe caps 110 4.2.3.4 Decoration of Early Modern Period shoe vamps 111 4.3 Summary 112 PART II: SHOEMAKING 115 1. COMPOSITION OF ARCHAEOLOGICAL SHOES IN TURKU 115 1.1 Soles 115 1.1.1 Double-layered soles 115 1.1.2 Composite soles 116 1.1.3 Wood-pinned outer soles 117 1.1.4 Insoles/midsoles of birch bark, felt and plant fibres and the question of winter shoes 119 1.1.5 Inner and outer soles of the Early Modern Period shoes 120 1.2 Uppers 121 1.2.1 Main pieces and their cutting patterns 121 1.2.2 Other components of uppers 121 1.2.2.1 Heel stiffeners 122 1.2.2.2 Lace/toggle hole reinforcements 123 1.2.2.3 Topbands and strengthening cords 123 1.2.2.4 Tongues 123 1.2.2.5 Laces, toggles, buckle straps and thongs 124 1.3 Sole/Upper constructions 126 1.3.1 Turnshoe construction 126 1.3.2 Turn-welt construction 127 1.3.3 Stitch-down construction 127 1.3.4 Welted construction 128 1.4 Types of leather 129 1.5 Materials of threads 130 1.6 Summary 130 2. DOCUMENTARY INFORMATION ON SHOEMAKING AND LEATHERWORKING 131 2.1 Craftsmen in town and castle 131 2.2 Craftsmen in the countryside 132 2.3 Summary 133 3. ARCHAEOLOGICAL EVIDENCE OF SHOEMAKING 133 3.1 Structural evidence 135 3.1.1 Tanning tubs and the tanning process 135 3.1.2 Scraping beams and stretcher frames 136 3.2 Osteological evidence 137 8 3.3 Macrofossil evidence 137 3.4 Leatherworking tools 138 3.4.1 Shoemakers’ knives 138 3.4.2 Lasts 138 3.4.3 Awls, creasers, shears, spindles, sewing-needles and thimbles 140 3.5 Waste leather 141 3.5.1 Currying waste and the currying process 141 3.5.2 Offcuts 142 3.5.3 The distribution of leather waste at the Åbo Akademi main building site and its interpretation 143 3.6 Master forms / Rough-outs of shoes 147 3.7 Shoe repairs and the reuse of leather 147 3.7.1 Replacement of soles 147 3.7.2 Clump soles 147 3.7.3 Repairs of uppers 148 3.7.4 Reuse of leather 148 3.8 Summary 148 DISCUSSION OF PARTS I AND II: FOOTWEAR AND SHOEMAKING IN TURKU IN THE MIDDLE AGES AND AT THE BEGINNING OF THE EARLY MODERN PERIOD 151 Endnotes 162 Sources 179 List of Figures 190 List of Tables 195 Appendices 1.
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