California Studies in Food and Culture Darra Goldstein, Editor Th e publisher gratefully acknowledges the generous support of the Ahmanson Foundation Humanities Endowment Fund of the University of California Press Foundation.

Th e publisher also gratefully acknowledges the generous support of the Humanities Endowment Fund of the University of California Press Foundation. , Peasants, and Shepherds

Popes, Peasants, and Shepherds

recipes and lore from and

Oretta Zanini De Vita

Translated by Maureen B. Fant

With a foreword by Ernesto Di Renzo

University of California Press berkeley los angeles london Series page: Caulifl ower grower selling his harvest in the streets of Rome (Biblioteca Clementina, )

Frontispiece: Bartolomeo Pinelli, Temple of the Sibyl at Tivoli (Biblioteca Clementina, Anzio)

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University of California Press Berkeley and Los Angeles, California

University of California Press, Ltd. London,

© 2013 by Oretta Zanini De Vita

A revised and expanded edition of Il Lazio a tavola: Guida gastronomica tra storia e tradizioni, originally published in Italian and simultaneously in English as Th e Food of Rome and Lazio: History, Folklore, and Recipes.

Library of Congress Cataloging- in- Publication Data

Zanini De Vita, Oretta, 1936– [Lazio a tavola. En glish] Popes, peasants, and shepherds : recipes and lore from Rome and Lazio / Oretta Zanini De Vita ; Translated by Maureen B. Fant. pages cm.—(California studies in food and culture ; 42) A revised and expanded edition of Il Lazio a tavola : Guida gastronomica tra storia e tradizioni, originally published in Italian. Includes bibliographical references and index. isbn 978-0- 520- 27154- 8 (cloth : alk. paper) 1. Food habits——Rome. 2. Food habits—Italy—Lazio. 3. Cooking—Italy—Rome. 4. Cooking—Italy—Lazio. 5. Italians— Food. I. Title. tx723.2.r65z3613 2013 394.1'20945632—dc23 2012038610

Manufactured in the United States of America

2 2 21 20 19 18 17 16 15 14 13 1 0 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1

Th e paper used in this publication meets the minimum requirements of ansi/niso z39.48–1992 (r 2002) (Permanence of Paper). For my daughter, Chiara De Vita ABRUZZO TUSCANY

Orvieto

Bolsena Amatrice Terni Lake Leonessa Bolsena Montefiascone

Rieti r e Viterbo v i

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ta VITERBO S MARCHE ar ab M in e Tarquinia Sutri H ill Cimini Hills s

Lake LAZIO er iv R r r ve e Ri b e i nien Subiaco T A Rome Tivoli ROME Fregene Ostia Marino Anagni Sora Albano Veroli Genzano Ferentino Isola Liri Frosinone FROSINONE Le pi Ceprano Tyrrhenian ni M Li ou ri Sea LATINA nta Ri ins ver Anzio Latina Fondi N Terracina Formia Minturno

Gaeta 0 15 30 miles Gulf of Gaeta 0 20 kilometers

Th e Lazio region of Italy