California Studies in Food and Culture Darra Goldstein, Editor Th e publisher gratefully acknowledges the generous support of the Ahmanson Foundation Humanities Endowment Fund of the University of California Press Foundation. Th e publisher also gratefully acknowledges the generous support of the Humanities Endowment Fund of the University of California Press Foundation. Popes, Peasants, and Shepherds Popes, Peasants, and Shepherds recipes and lore from rome and lazio Oretta Zanini De Vita Translated by Maureen B. Fant With a foreword by Ernesto Di Renzo University of California Press berkeley los angeles london Series page: Caulifl ower grower selling his harvest in the streets of Rome (Biblioteca Clementina, Anzio) Frontispiece: Bartolomeo Pinelli, Temple of the Sibyl at Tivoli (Biblioteca Clementina, Anzio) University of California Press, one of the most distinguished university presses in the United States, enriches lives around the world by advancing scholarship in the humanities, social sciences, and natural sciences. Its activities are sup- ported by the UC Press Foundation and by philanthropic contributions from individuals and institutions. For more information, visit www .ucpress .edu . University of California Press Berkeley and Los Angeles, California University of California Press, Ltd. London, En gland © 2013 by Oretta Zanini De Vita A revised and expanded edition of Il Lazio a tavola: Guida gastronomica tra storia e tradizioni, originally published in Italian and simultaneously in English as Th e Food of Rome and Lazio: History, Folklore, and Recipes. Library of Congress Cataloging- in- Publication Data Zanini De Vita, Oretta, 1936– [Lazio a tavola. En glish] Popes, peasants, and shepherds : recipes and lore from Rome and Lazio / Oretta Zanini De Vita ; Translated by Maureen B. Fant. pages cm.—(California studies in food and culture ; 42) A revised and expanded edition of Il Lazio a tavola : Guida gastronomica tra storia e tradizioni, originally published in Italian. Includes bibliographical references and index. isbn 978- 0- 520- 27154- 8 (cloth : alk. paper) 1. Food habits— Italy—Rome. 2. Food habits— Italy—Lazio. 3. Cooking—Italy—Rome. 4. Cooking—Italy—Lazio. 5. Italians— Food. I. Title. tx723.2.r65z3613 2013 394.1'20945632—dc23 2012038610 Manufactured in the United States of America 2 2 21 20 19 18 17 16 15 14 13 1 0 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Th e paper used in this publication meets the minimum requirements of ansi/niso z39.48– 1992 (r 2002) (Permanence of Paper). For my daughter, Chiara De Vita ABRUZZO TUSCANY Orvieto UMBRIA Bolsena Amatrice Terni Lake Leonessa Bolsena Montefiascone Rieti r e Viterbo v i R ta VITERBO S MARCHE ar ab RIETI M in e Tarquinia Sutri H ill Cimini Hills s Lake LAZIO Civitavecchia Bracciano er iv Mentana Cerveteri R r Santa Marinella r ve e Ri b e i nien Subiaco T A Rome Tivoli ROME Fregene Palestrina Frascati Ostia Marino Anagni Sora Albano Veroli Genzano Velletri Ferentino Isola Liri Frosinone FROSINONE Le Ceprano pin Tyrrhenian i M Li ou ri Sea LATINA nta Ri Nettuno ins ver Anzio Latina Fondi N Terracina Formia Minturno Gaeta 0 15 30 miles Gulf of Gaeta 0 20 kilometers Th e Lazio region of Italy.