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1 The Best of

Madrid is on a roll. Never a city to let the grass grow under its feet, the Spanish capi- tal is experiencing unprecedented change thanks to the efforts of the visionary mayor Alberto Ruiz-Gallardón—a man compared by some, however tongue in cheek, to a pharaoh. In 2005 the mayor launched a new 7-year city program aimed at transform- ing the capital into a world-class cosmopolitan center, with improved Metro and rail transport and the expansion of new barrios, or districts, especially in the north of the city where a tren ligero (a smaller, streamlined Talgo-shaped tram similar to those suc- cessfully operating in Bilbao) is scheduled to be in operation by spring 2007. Though the completion of all this work was originally timed to coincide with Madrid’s expected nomination as venue for the 2012 Olympics, the city’s disbelief at being beaten for the honor by London was quickly forgotten (maudlin introspection is not part of the feisty Madrileño temperament). In fact, many completion schedules have been brought forward to coincide with the municipal elections of May 2007. Two new terminals at airport were inaugurated in February 2006, more than doubling the city’s international traffic and making the airport the third busiest in Europe, while Chamartín railway station is being totally rebuilt to merge with a renovated Metro station and a new underground regional and long-distance bus ter- minal. Each of the four currently under construction (Torres Repsol, Espa- cio, Sacyr, and Cristal) will outstrip Torre Picasso in the AZCA Business Center as the highest building in town; at the same time, pedestrian and subway underpasses are being tunneled and countless streets and avenues widened, all aimed at improving road access. The roadwork may prove a bone of contention for frustrated and qui- etly—or not so quietly—seething Madrileño drivers who see their priority of getting to work on time thwarted by cranes, bulldozers, excavations, and scaffoldings until the job gets done. On the other hand, public transportation is being upgraded almost by the month, particularly on the much-used and excellent-value Metro (p. 70). The cultural mix of the 5-million-plus population is also changing radically, with an influx of immigrants from South American and Eastern European countries taking over many of the service and blue-collar jobs. Many are Ecuadorians, who are busy opening cafes,COPYRIGHTED shops—especially bakeries—and locutorios MATERIAL(long-distance phone-call centers). Meanwhile the Russians, Romanians, Poles, and Czechs who work on many of the building sites and in practical fields such as plumbing and carpentry have shown great versatility both in their work and in picking up Spanish. It’s all a great change from the homogeneous Madrid of a few years back when foreign residents totaled barely 1%. Ecological changes abound, too. Madrid is now officially one of the “greenest” cities in Europe, with verdant areas springing up every year thanks to an ecologically aware town hall. The , with its flowers, fountains, and boat-filled lake, and the huge Casa del Campo moorland, with its copses and bird life, are the city’s twin lungs, aided 05_047286 ch01.qxp 12/14/06 9:30 PM Page 5

THE MOST UNFORGETTABLE MADRID EXPERIENCES 5 by the regular flow of pure mountain air from the Guadarramas 97km (60 miles) away. Alberto Ruiz-Gallardón’s improvement plans also cover the planting of hun- dreds of thousands of trees in newly created green zones—intersected by walking and cycling lanes—both in and around the city. His Manzanares River development is par- ticularly ambitious, with both river and M-30 highway running underground while the surface becomes a pedestrianized parkland that connects with the Casa del Campo. (In summer 2006 the crusading mayor also launched a battle against “light pollution” by announcing a future ban on practically all neon lights in the city center, so that Madrileños would be able to see the stars on cloudless nights.) In a sense, the Spanish capital hasn’t changed at all: It has always been an awesome blend of tradition and dynamism. At its heart is the vintage Madrid of Los Austrias, the Plaza Mayor, and the Real, still exuding centuries-old atmosphere and ringed in turn by regenerated castizo (traditional) districts like Chueca, Malasaña, and Lavapiés (the latter’s population epitomizing the new ethnically varied Madrid). The and Virgen de la Almudena fiestas are celebrated with their customary color and vigor. Shopping, dining, and cultural options are plentiful and remarkably varied. And the spontaneous nonstop lifestyle continues to thrive, with bars (more than 18,000 of them) opening from 5:30am onwards for coffee and churros and closing late (or never shutting at all if you include the after-hours bars), and weekend dawn traf- fic jams of cars and night buses blocking the city thoroughfares as revelers weave their way to, from, or between their favorite spots.

1 The Most Unforgettable Madrid Experiences • Sitting in or Sombra at the Bull- Las Meninas (The Maids of Honor) by fights: A bullfight can be one of the Velázquez (my favorite) and the dark most evocative and memorable events vision of ’s Disasters of War etch- in , and the best place by far to ings. El Prado also boasts a number of see one is at the country’s biggest Botticellis, Titians, and French plaza de toros (bullring) at Impressionists, but don’t try to take it (on the eastern border of Madrid’s all in in 1 day: The museum’s overall district close to the M-30 collection is simply too vast to absorb highway). Tickets are either sol in a single visit. See p. 168. (sunny side) or sombra (in the shade); • Feasting on Tapas in the Tascas: you’ll pay more to get out of the sun. Tapas, those delicious bite-size por- Peak time for attending bullfights is tions washed down with wine, beer, during the capital’s San Isidro fiestas or sherry, are reason enough to go to in May, when 4 consecutive weeks of Madrid! Original favorites were cured daily corridas feature some of the ham or chorizo (spicy sausage). Today biggest names in the bullfighting you might sample gambas (deep-fried world. See p. 186. shrimp), boquerones (anchovies mari- • Seeing the Masterpieces at El nated in vinegar), albóndigas (meat- Prado: One of the world’s premier balls), tortillas (tiny omelets), or art museums, on a par with the Lou- calamares (squid). Among the best vre, El Prado is home to some 4,000 areas for a tapeo (tapa “crawl”) are masterpieces, many of them acquired bustling Plaza de Santa Ana and the by Spanish kings. The wealth of Span- labyrinthine Cava Baja. See chapter 6. ish art is staggering—everything from • Lounging in an Outdoor Cafe: In Goya’s Naked Maja to the celebrated summer Madrileños live it up on café 05_047286 ch01.qxp 12/14/06 9:30 PM Page 6

6 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF MADRID

Rising from the Ashes As with that fateful September 2001 attack in New York City and the July 2005 bombings in London’s underground, the resilient spirit of the city’s inhabitants survived Madrid’s own terrorist-inflicted tragedy on March 11, 2004, when Al Qaeda bombed suburban-line trains in and close to station, killing nearly 200 people. “We were all on that train” became a popular slogan. Madrid bounced back, albeit in a politically changed environment. Three days after the outrage, the PSOE Socialist Party, led by José Rodríguez Zapatero, unexpectedly won the elections and ended the 8-year government of the PP Conservative Party under Jose Maria Aznar. The PSOE introduced a radical new agenda, taking action to withdraw Spanish troops from Iraq, introduce more female politicians into Parliament, pass a law allowing homosexual marriages, and approve a controversial Estatut (statute) giving the province of Catalonia more autonomy—all of which was strenuously opposed by the opposition PP.

terrazas till the early hours. Prized really gets going from around 9am spots are the wide tree-lined Paseo del on, with shoulder-to-shoulder stalls Pintor Rosales on the western edge of stretching down Calle Ribera de Cur- the Argüelles district, overlooking the tidores. Real or fake antiques, sec- Casa del Campo, and the elegant cos- ondhand clothing, porn films, mopolitan swathe of the Paseo de la Franco-era furniture, paintings (end- , , and less copies of Velázquez), old books, Paseo de . In Lavapiés, the religious relics, and plenty of just colorful Calle Argumosa also offers a plain junk are for sale. These streets fashionable spill of alfresco bars. See also contain some of the finest per- chapter 6. manent antiques shops in Madrid. • Relaxing in a Genuine Literary Warning: Keep an eagle eye on your Cafe: Once upon a time the city had wallet or purse; this is a pickpocket’s several distinguished old-world cafes paradise. See p. 219. where intellectuals, artists, and lesser • Sunday Strolling in the Retiro: mortals would gather to enjoy a Spread across 140 leafy hectares (350 leisurely chat or stimulating tertulia acres) the statue- and tree-filled Par- (social gathering). Today the sole sur- que de Retiro was originally designed vivors of these legendary 19th-century as the gardens of Buen Retiro palace, watering holes are the ornate Gran occupied by Philip IV in the 1630s. Café de Gijón (& 91-521-54-25) In 1767 Charles III opened part of and the more austere Café Comer- the gardens to the general public. On cial (& 91-521-56-55), both graced Sunday mornings before lunch ven- with traditional columns and high dors hawk their wares, magicians per- windows with views of the ever- form their acts, fortunetellers read changing scenes outside. Lingering tarot cards, and large Disney-style unhurriedly over a coffee in either is a moving models of Tweety Bird and real treat. See pages 142 and 208. Bugs Bunny delight the kids. In the • Shopping the Rastro: Madrid’s central lake (presided over by a 1902 teeming flea market represents a tra- monument to Alfonso XII) you can dition that’s 500 years old. The place rent a boat and laze away the hours 05_047286 ch01.qxp 12/14/06 9:30 PM Page 7

THE BEST SPLURGE HOTELS 7 on the glittering waters. See chap- nocturnal (and after-hours) fun zones ter 6. of Chueca, Huertas, and Malasaña, • Picnicking in the Casa del Campo: and sample the big clubs around On a hot summer’s day enjoy an Calle Arenal like Palacio Gaviria alfresco repast in the shade of a fra- (& 91-256-60-69). See p. 235. grant pine in the heart of Madrid’s • Wandering around the Monasterio largest park and look back at the de las Descalzas Reales: A haven of shimmering city skyline. Afterward go unexpected peace in the bustling boating on the lake or take the kids to heart of Madrid, barely a stone’s the zoo or Parque de Atracciones. You throw from the Gran Vía, this charm- can get here by teleférico chair lift or ing former medieval palace was con- by Metro to Lago. See p. 187. verted into a monastery in the 16th • Nursing a Drink at Chicote (& 91- century by Philip II’s sister Juana. 532-67-37): The 1930s interior at Ornate frescoes, Flemish tapestries, Madrid’s most famous bar looks the and paintings by the likes of Titian same as it did during the Spanish and Zurbarán fill its chapel-lined Civil War. Shells might have been fly- interior. Only 20 visitors are allowed ing along the Gran Vía, but the inter- in at a time, so be prepared to wait. national press corps covering the war See p. 181. drank on. Postwar regulars included • Exploring the Real Monasterio de writers, artists, and film stars like San Lorenzo de El Escorial (49 Frank Sinatra and Ava Gardner. km/30 miles from Madrid): Philip II, Today it’s one of the smart, sophisti- who commissioned this monastery in cated spots to rendezvous in Madrid. the 1530s, envisioned it as a spiritual See p. 238. fortress against the distractions of the • Experiencing the Movida: Very secular world. Today it remains the roughly translated as the “shift,” or best living example of religious devo- the “movement,” movida characterizes tion in Renaissance Spain. Within its post-Franco life in the capital after huge granite walls—more awesome Madrileños threw off the yoke of dic- than beautiful—are the tombs of tatorship and repression, giddily Spanish kings and a priceless reposi- drinking, dancing, and generally hav- tory of ancient books, tapestries, and ing a ball à la Almodóvar. To get the masterpieces by Goya, Velázquez, and feel of this still inexhaustible phe- other artistic giants. See p. 256. nomena, head for the highly liberated

2 The Best Splurge Hotels • Hesperia Madrid (& 91-210-88- highly regarded lodgings in Madrid. 00): It’s a member of “The Leading See p. 104. Hotels of the World”—and you’ll see • Park Hyatt Villa Magna (& 800/ why as soon as you check in to this 223-1234 from the USA or Canada Catalan-owned gem with its ultra- or & 91-587-12-34 from Spain): A smart fittings, sophisticated ameni- recognized “in” place favored by ties, and hint-of-Far-East decor. Add movie stars and high-ranking politi- to this the hotel’s Michelin-rated cians, the Villa Magna enjoys a pres- Santceloni restaurant (see “The Most tigious reputation almost unique in Unforgettable Dining Experiences,” the city. It’s also got a full-service below), and you have one of the most business center stocked with access to 05_047286 ch01.qxp 12/14/06 9:30 PM Page 8

8 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF MADRID translators, word processors, even a Now approaching its 100th anniver- well-informed technology concierge. sary, this granddaddy of Madrid’s lux- Behind its elegant garden setting is a ury hotels has seen monarchs and classically styled hotel boasting top dictators come and go. Backed by facilities and the highest standards of gardens in the loveliest part of the service. See p. 104. Paseo del Prado, the hotel has an • The Ritz (& 800/225-5843 from incomparable setting and superb the USA or Canada or 91-701-67-67 decor matched only by the inimitable from Spain): In spite of an increasing service and attention to detail. Ah, number of impressive rivals, the Belle but be prepared to pay accordingly. Epoque Ritz remains a world apart. See p. 104.

3 The Best Moderately Priced Hotels • Built in 1966 and still going strong, 19th-century Hostal Persal (& 91- the reasonably priced Fiesta Gran 369-46-43) offers good-value family- Hotel Colón (& 91-573-59-00) lies size rooms as well as fine meals. See west of Retiro Park in a relatively safe p. 92. area of Madrid that’s easily connected • If the prospect of bedding down in a to the center by subway. It’s nicely peaceful setting within easy reach of maintained and kept up-to-date, the center tickles your fancy, then the offering well-designed bedrooms with Residencia (& 91-564-03- comfortably traditional furnishings. 70) is for you. It has comfortable See p. 107. rooms, a friendly atmosphere, and a • Ideally located in a popular tiny leafy patio where you can enjoy square close to the Plaza Mayor, the home-cooked meals. See p. 113.

4 The Most Unforgettable Dining Experiences • The Sobrino de Botín (& 91-366- • La Broche (& 91-399-34-37): For 30-26) may be touristy these days, those who favor tradition-shattering but the setting and atmosphere of the Catalan delights, the dining room of city’s oldest restaurant (some say the the Hotel Occidental Miguel Angel oldest eatery in the world) more than (p. 110) provides some of the most compensate. Rafters, beams, and imaginative offerings in the city, with nooks abound, and the effective serv- chef Sergi Arola emulating the culi- ice is accompanied by some first-rate nary style of his much-vaunted men- Castilian specialties, such as lechón tor Ferran Adrià. See p. 158. (suckling pig). See p. 127. • Santceloni (& 91-210-88-40): A • Zalacaín (& 91-561-48-40): This is stylish repository of fine Mediter- definitely money-is-no-object time, ranean cuisine located in the immac- but with unsurpassable Basque and ulate Hesperia Madrid hotel (p. 104), French cuisine like this, you can let this elite locale is for many the tops in yourself go for once. Still one of the town. Chef Santi Santamaría con- very best gourmet rendezvous in jures up inspired Catalan dishes such Madrid, it’s holding out well against as fennel-based John Dory. See p. 152. the fashionable tsunami of Catalan nouvelle cuisine. See p. 152. 05_047286 ch01.qxp 12/14/06 9:30 PM Page 9

THE BEST STUFF TO BRING HOME 9

5 The Best Things to Do For Free • Enjoy the Weekend Cultural Treats: the capital. No charge for either, of Saturday afternoons and Sunday course—though you may care to mornings are free at the Museos Naval, leave something in the collection box de America, Arqueológico Nacional, to help toward the preservation of and Nacional de Arte Reina these two gems. See chapter 7. Sofia. The tiny Casa Museo de Lope • Stroll in the Parks: Madrid’s best de Vega is free on Saturdays, and Sun- central parques are particularly day morning–only treats include the rewarding to explore, especially the famed El Prado and Museos Sorolla, Retiro, with its rose garden, foun- Casa de la Moneda, and Nacional de tains, statues (including the Angel Artes Decorativas. See chapter 7. Caído, or Fallen Angel, depicting • Don’t Forget Weekday Freebies: Lucifer), central lake, Casa de Vacas, Some of the private museums (such and 19th-century Palacios de Cristal as Lazaro Galdiano and Cerralbo) are and Velazquez cultural showrooms. free on Wednesdays (Cerralbo is also Below the Palacio Real, the Campo free on Sun), while the Museo San del Moro has a verdant neatness more Isidro in Plaza San Andrés gives you associated with northern Europe, a gratis daily rundown on the city’s while on the edge of Argüelles the history. Attractions that are perma- Parque del Oeste’s marked nature nently free include the Bolsa (Stock trails wend their way down past an Exchange), Museo Municipal, Casa international selection of trees and de America, private Fundación art plants to the River Manzanares exhibitions such as La Caixa and Juan (where you can view the Ermita de March, and the Conde Duque cul- San Antonio de la Florida’s Goyan tural center. See chapter 7. frescoes). See chapter 7. • Take an Ecclesiastical Trip Back in • See Madrid’s “Little Egypt”: On the Time: We’re particularly fond of ridge overlooking the Casa de Madrid’s two oldest churches, hidden Campo, you can visit the Templo de in the heart of the Austrias district. Debod, a unique slice of Egypt in They’re both tiny, giving you an idea Spain. It’s the real McCoy, shipped of what Madrid must have been like stone by stone from the banks of the with a population of just around Nile. See chapter 7. 10,000. San Nicolás de los Servitas • Be a Politician for a Day (or Morn- (full title: San Nicolás de Bari de los ing, Anyway): Visit the Congreso de Servitas) was named after an Italian los Diputados on Saturday mornings saint, and its 12th-century Arabic and imagine yourself changing the torre rises above a narrow lane just direction of the Spanish nation. No behind the Calle Mayor. Nearby San need to book: Just turn up at 10am Pedro el Leal (also known as San (except during the summer recess). Pedro el Viejo) has the best-preserved See chapter 8. 14th-century Mudéjar brick tower in

6 The Best Stuff to Bring Home • Leather: Leather has long been one belts and handbags to handmade of Spain’s most highly valued prod- shoes and fine jackets. Check out top ucts, and best buys range from stylish shops like Loewe in the Gran Vía and 05_047286 ch01.qxp 12/14/06 9:30 PM Page 10

10 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF MADRID Farrutx in Calle Serrano. Or rum- for some of the best choices. See chap- mage through Sunday’s Rastro flea ters 9 and 11. market for a secondhand bargain. See • Porcelain: Porcelain ornaments simi- chapter 9. lar in style to the Italian Capodimonte • Ceramics: Though this is not a are made by the Valencian company Madrid specialty, you’ll find a wide Lladró, and, though considered rather selection of ceramic vases, dishes, and twee by some, are extremely popular jugs from nearby towns such as with most visitors. Check out Lasarte Toledo and Talavera de la Reina, in the Gran Vía. See chapter 9. some of whose wares have the style • Capes: If your taste runs to the and finesse of fine art. You’ll also find slightly eccentric, now’s your chance plenty of choices from areas farther to buy a genuine Spanish cape (capa) afield such as Seville, Granada, and and surprise your friends as you arrive Manises in province. Visit at the theater in style! The place to the Antigua Casa Talavera (p. 217) find them is Capas Seseña (p. 216). See chapter 9.

7 The Best Unique Inns • La Taberna de Antonio Sánchez exists. Yet it’s barely half an hour away (& 91-539-78-26): You can’t get by Metro, and the unique experience more traditional than this much- of dining on fine Castilian fare in a copied 200-year-old original, a vin- rambling 19th-century house guaran- tage example of Old Madrid complete tees that any trip here is well worth it. with zinc counter, carved wooden bar See p. 167. top, barrels, honest wines, and a • Casa Alberto (& 91-429-93-56): genial bartender. Formerly patron- Another genuine oldie, this charis- ized by painters and playwrights, this matic tavern has been around since small cavelike locale has also had long 1827. The dark maroon exterior and associations with the bullfight world. tunnel-like interior with its zinc bar (The bull’s head on the wall is not top, bullfight pictures, and engrav- there just for decoration.) See p. 165. ings on the walls create the ideal ambi- • Casa Pedro (& 91-734-02-01): Per- ence to enjoy a tasty tapa or three. The haps because of its location up in the restaurant at the rear provides more northern suburbs, few people realize substantial versions of the traditional this atmospheric eating spot—the seafood and Castilian meat dishes second oldest in all Madrid—even available. See p. 136.

8 The Best Museums • El Prado: The spectacular Prado is silver work along with Italian Renais- no mere museum, but a fully formed sance jewelry. Reopened in 2003 travel experience. It’s worth a journey after 18 months of renovations, the to Spain just to see it. See p. 168. museum also contains galleries with • Museo Lázaro Galdiano: This rare rare paintings, everything from Flem- collection demonstrates the evolution ish primitives to works by Spanish of enamel and ivory crafts from the masters of the golden age, including Byzantine era to 19th-century Limo- El Greco, Murillo, and Zurbarán. ges. Of almost equal importance are The museum also has paintings from displays of superb medieval gold and Goya’s “Black Period” and works by 05_047286 ch01.qxp 12/14/06 9:30 PM Page 11

THE BEST MUSEUMS 11 the English and Italian masters Con- unique collection of Western and Ori- stable and Tiepolo. See p. 183. ental armor and weapons. See p. 182. • Thyssen-Bornemisza Museum: • Museo Sorolla: Visit the great Valen- Madrid’s acquisition of this treasure cian artist’s own house in the residen- trove of art in the 1980s was one of tial heart of the Spanish capital. Built the greatest coups in European art in 1910 and bequeathed as a museum history. Amassed by a Central Euro- by his wife after his death, its trade- pean collector beginning around mark works are luminous Levante 1920, and formerly displayed in coast beach scenes, with women in Lugano, Switzerland, the 700 can- white dresses backed by an azure vasses, with works by artists ranging Mediterranean sea. The museum was from El Greco to Picasso, are arranged reopened in 2002 after a spell of in chronological order. The collection tasteful refurbishment. See the artist’s rivals the legendary holdings of the eccentrically furnished studio com- queen of England herself. See p. 169. plete with a Turkish sofa on which he • Museo Cerralbo: This 19th-century took his siesta. See p. 184. mansion evokes the genuine aura of a • Reina Sofia: Spain’s number-one sumptuous restoration residence. modern art exhibition. Regulars on Formerly owned by the 17th marquis show include Dalí, Tàpies, and Klein, of Argüelles, it houses one of the and an ever-interesting series of tem- most personal collections in Madrid. porary exhibits ranges from the anar- Works by Zurbarán and El Greco, chic to mainstream. The outside especially the latter’s Ecstasy of St. glass-walled elevator is popular with Francis of Assisi, are among its high- kids. See p. 172. lights, and the upper floor contains a