Como premissa,considera-seque acomida,quando exploradamidiaticamente, geográfica esocialdoscompetidoresamaneiracomolidam comaalimentação. ções entreoglobalelocal.Aanáliseenfatiza aidentidadedosjurados,origem para compreenderdeque maneiraassimilaridadesediferençasexplicitamrela- exibido. ApropostaécompararoMasterChefBrasilao Colômbia zados, lidacomquestões vinculadasaocontextoondeoprogramaéproduzidoe a despeitodeserumformatotelevisivoe,portanto,trabalhar elementosglobali- Abstract: Ariane DinizHolzbach 1 Resumo: MasterChef Brasil versus MasterChef Colômbia BrasilMasterChef versus A comidacomo Brazil versus Colombia MasterChef MasterChef Food ofatelevision aschef format: 2 Meeting ofCompós,atUFG,Goiânia, fromJune 07 TV. Keywords: televisionformat;MasterChefBrazil;Colombia;reality culture and,atthesametime,withlocalidentitiesandmediacharacteristics. thatfood,whenconsiders mediaticallyexplored,evokeselementsrelatedtoglobal geographic andsocialoriginshowtheseTVshowsdealwithfood.The work The thejudges’identities,contestants’ analysispointsoutthreeperspectives: able toexplaintherelationbetweenglobalandlocalinbothcontexts. MasterChef Colombiainordertoseehowtheirsimilaritiesanddifferencesare emphasizes globalelements.To doso,thepaperanalysesMasterChefBraziland show ofcookerydealswithlocalphenomena,despitebeingaTVformatthat A versionofthispaperwaspresented attheworkgroupStudies ofTelevision atthe25 Universidade Federal Fluminense. Niterói,RJ,Brasil.E-mail: [email protected] The howareality mainobjectiveofthispaperistounderstand O objetivodotrabalhoéentendercomoumrealityshowde comida, comun. mídiaconsumo,sãopaulo,comun. v. 14, 39,p. n. 127-146, jan/abr. 2017 2 deumformatotelevisivo:chef th to10 th , 2016. Doi 10.18568/cmc.v14i39.1241 th 1 Annual

ARTICLE food as chef of a television format a television as chef of food comun. mídia consumo, são paulo, v. 14, n. 39, p. 127-146, jan/apr. 2017 14, n. 39, p. v. comun. mídia consumo, são paulo, evoca elementos vinculados à cultura globalizada e à identidade do local onde e à identidade do cultura globalizada vinculados à evoca elementos se desenvolve. Colômbia; Brasil; MasterChef MasterChef televisivo; formato Palavras-chave: reality show. 128

ARTIGO ena relatedtoeachcontext. pieces that “speak” and help clarify phenom- perceived as fundamental offered tothecompetitors and otherelementslinkedtothefoodmaybe in thechallenges,gastronomic identityofthe judges,theingredients element thatindividualize theMasterChefs.Thetypeofcuisinevalued through whichthecompetitorsarehierarchized; foodisthemain main character. Thefood,inturn,doesnotactonlyasaninstrument ondly, itisessentialtohaveinmind thatMasterChefturnsfoodintothe global elements that the format demands to be recognized as such. Sec- are necessarilylinkedtoeachcountry, whichworkinperspectivewith they areproducedindifferent contexts,eachshow evokeselementsthat MasterChef Colombiaareverydifferent fromeachother. Firstly, since (CHALABY, 2015). transnationalization of a model that is potentially developed anywhere mat, atypeofcontentwhichproductionlogichasasanobjectivethe that createunity with theMasterchefbrand.Itis,thus,atelevisionfor- thecharacteristics be doneinregionalgrounds,aslongitmaintains tries, andeverytimeachannelintendstoproducetheshow, thishasto developed byBBC,thefranchisewasalreadyproducedinover40coun- produced: Australia, Bulgaria,Chile, Mexico, Ukraine…Originally inated. Thesamedynamic isdevelopedwhereverMasterchefbeing suchaschoosingtheonewhowouldbeelim- moments ofexpectation, challenges havesimilar objectives,theedition dramaticallyexploresthe prepared bythecompetitors,onepresenterexplainschallenges, edition thedishes rhythm:Threejudgesspecialized ingastronomytaste tive asitsbraziliancolleague.Eachversionusessimilar strategiesand broadcasts MasterchefColômbia,TVshow thatsharesthesameobjec- who wouldbethechefofhour. Ontheotherside,RCNTelevisión the objectivetochoose,throughanintensegastronomic competition, nel Bandeirantes broadcastsMasterchefBrazil,arealityshow whichhas At a first glance, both shows seem to be the same. On one side, the chan- Introduction comun. mídiaconsumo, sãopaulo, v. 14,n.39,p. 127-146 , jan/apr.2017 What happensis,whenanalyzedclosely, MasterChefBraziland ariane dinizholzbach 129

ARTIGO food as chef of a television format a television as chef of food The objective of this paper, however, is to understand is however, paper, of this The objective way in what comun. mídia consumo, são paulo, v. 14, n. 39, p. 127-146, jan/apr. 2017 14, n. 39, p. v. comun. mídia consumo, são paulo, Food that stratifies Food vitalthe to due Probably act. physical mere a was never eat function To transforms it in importantthat food carries, it holds an aura that social contexts. Lévi-Strauss (2004, p. 1) argues that, foundations in different deals with food, there are “conceptual tools to behind the way society together in propositions”. The isolate abstract notions and chain them The ways in which food is handled; anthropologist emphasizes that: 1) cooked, rotten, (raw, manipulation 2) the expressions used during the certainvalue of the and 3) fresh…); con- to others are in relation foods textual forms of interpretation of the world that hierarchize specifically elements of contemporary elements. One of the most revealing social people have on the table, in turn, is based on the manners societies, that us reminds (2011) Norbert Elias matter, About this during meals. 130 a television format linked to food clarify phenomena related to the phenomena related to food clarify format linked a television with the global the way it relates is made and the show culture where of two make an analysis so, the idea is to do it demands. To phenomena The Brazilian and MasterChefs of Latin America: of the most popular In order to do that, both broadcasted in 2015. the Colombian versions, around food as a tool which translates a discussion first the paper creates the Later, produced. is it where place the to related phenomena social and the relation TV formats will be discussed role of the contemporary the idea is to analyze local and global. Finally, which mark between three categories: and MasterChef Colombia through MasterChef Brazil the contes- origin of judges, the geographic and social the identity of the tants cuisine. It and the value of native food in relation to international analysis is important a mediatic to emphasize that, instead of performing of analyzing the content of these per se, the approach has the intention aspects, wider social elements relate with and the way their TV shows developed in each con- culture those necessarily linked to the mediatic in a social phenomena perceived mediatic text and added to different perspective.

ARTIGO phenomena relatedtofoodinthe20 reference. bol ofsocial stratification thathasthewesternEuropeasanimportant to theactofeating.Goodmanners,thus,constituteapowerful sym- utensilsthatencouragedspecific behaviorsrelated to culinaryandtable tiate themfromthecommoners,thatdid nothaveaccesstoeducationor supporttodifferenby thebourgeoisie, had intheseritualsanimportant - Middle AgeandModernity. These,formedbythearistocracyandlater that putinprominence thebehaviorofEurocentricelites based on“goodmanners”wasanintenseverticalizedprocess author considersthatthehistoricalprocesssettledbehavior natural behaviordoesnotexist,itisratherhistoricallyconstructed.The comun. mídiaconsumo, sãopaulo, v. 14,n.39,p. 127-146 , jan/apr.2017 17 ification. Iftheexistence of culinarybooksdatesbacktoatleastthe phenomenon, whichintensifies therelationoffoodwithsocial strat- types offoodareusuallyconsumedonlybypeoplewho canaffordit. foodsinpopularwhileother of brandsandpricesthatturncertain relation betweensociety andfood;evenso,thereis,currently, adiversity seasonings, forexample,causedaprofoundchangeinthe stantaneous that technologygotinpreparations.Tinned andfrozenfoodsin- and food, especially because the huge importance tween capitalism processes suchastheIndustrialRevolutionintensified therelationbe- ple), whileotherswerehistoricallylinkedtothepoor (guts).Historical of meat,inawaythatsomearerelatedtotheelite(lambforexam- Bourdieu (1996),itispossibletosocially hierarchizethetypesandcuts the aristocracy. Andinthiscontext,from alogicthathasitsoriginsin tive “noble”,either by being rareorbybeing morecommon between foods.Meat,forexample,inmanycases,receive theadjec- of certain consolidated bythejunctionofsocial stratificationandtheofferorlack in different societies and historic periods, and that characteristic was us, forexample,thatmanyfoodsarehistoricallylinkedtotheelite,even th The sociology offood hasappropriatedthisobservationtoexplain Nowadays, theingestionoffoodwastransformedintoamediatic century(BRAGA, 2008),the20 th centurywatchedtheproliferation th century. Goody(1982)reminds ariane dinizholzbach 131

ARTIGO Cookery (1946) in the United Kingdom, and I Love to Eat (1946- Eat to I Love and Kingdom, United the in (1946) Cookery food as chef of a television format a television as chef of food From the media company’s point of view, formats are one of the most of view, point company’s the media From comun. mídia consumo, são paulo, v. 14, n. 39, p. 127-146, jan/apr. 2017 14, n. 39, p. v. comun. mídia consumo, são paulo, strategic television contents, considering they are models that gather strategic television contents, considering they are models that gather Television formats between global and local formats between Television although the idea was since the 50’s, The television formats exist, at least, 2012). since the previous decade (CHALABY, already present in radio in number television formats have grown In the last 20 years, however, that the context for two characteristics which points and complexity, - holds: 1) its great capability of flexibility and adaptation so to different a product that intents to be international contexts; and 2) being cial (KEANE; MORAN, 2008). of journalistic and entertainmentof journalistic main have food as the programs that has been columns existence of gastronomy journalism, the theme. In that seem and websites magazines common in newspapers, increasingly to the aristocratic much well” that still owes ideal of “eating to sell the act in the choice by Elias. Furthermore, they eurocentrism evidenced points Cole (2014) food for many people, as Jennifer and preparation of the as an institution that directs the role of media out, which boosts value of certain In entertainment, preparations over others. the TV which talkshows cooking in one of the about food transform the act of chef" Xavier Mar- since 1937, when the "TV most celebrated practices after the Second on BBC (OREN, 2013). Right cel Boulestin appeared in the anglo-saxon shows there were at least two cooking War, World context: premiered 1947), in the United States. In Brazil, Ofélia Ramos Anunciato and, later on, hosted for 30 years in 1958 on TV Tupi a cooking show (DEMOZZI, 2012). Bandeirantes A Cozinha Maravilhosa de Ofélia on the for ABC’s gastronomic of kind a brand as had shows these Initially, had as content which that they carried highly didactic given audience, to cook "well". on how the female audience objective to teach especially compe- on based dynamic, different a have shows TV most Nowadays, 2015), primetime (WEI; MARTIN, titions that are broadcast on TV’s shows. which is the case in cooking reality 132

ARTIGO markets” (HETSRONI,2010, p.VII).Realityshows areatelevision the capabilityofovercoming culturalbarriersandsellingfordifferent is particularlyvisibleonrealityshows, "aglobalphenomenonthathas Europe region. countries such as Australia, New Zealand, Argentina and in the East ducers thathavebeenspecializing increatingandsellingformats on theother,itisincreasinglyhighernumber ofindependentpro- the mainstreammedia, benefitfromabiggerdemandforthiscontent, thermore, if,ononehand,bigformatexporters,usually coming from comprise acomplexmixture ofglobalandlocalcharacteristics.Fur- show. From thispoint ofview, formatsdevelophybridcontentthat bring somekindoflocalidentity, even toraiseaudience ratingstothe sense ifitenables,withanice dosageofflexibility, thattheproducers teristics fromtheplacewheretheyareproduced.Aformatonlymakes bigger economic integration and present in their content many charac- What happensis,as Waisbord (2004)points out,formats encourage a teurization ofcontentandtheerasurelocaltelevisioncharacteristics. expanded their audience. schedule andtheir potentiallyattainable vision schedule,but,mainly, tobeginworking withnewcontent,which which allowed themnotonly tohaveabiggerparticipation onthetele- of mediatic contentandtheprivatization ofalargenumber ofchannels, Between 1980-1990,formatsbenefitfromabiggertransnationalization expansion inchannelsthroughouttheworld(CHALABY, 2012,2015). low costandeasyproduction, suchasgameshows, whichencouragedits and/or exhibition.Ina first moment,thismodeldevelopedshows with those who acquire them and become responsible for their production Companies specialized inthecreationand saleoftheseformatsand With that,theysupplyforatleasttwogeographicallydifferent markets: basic rulesandthat,aftertheyarelicensed,canbegloballyproduced. comun. mídiaconsumo, sãopaulo, v. 14,n.39,p. 127-146 , jan/apr.2017 The relationshipbetweenlocalandglobalinthecontext offormats At afirstglance,thepopularizationofformatsseemstoboostpas- ariane dinizholzbach 133

ARTIGO that, in general, work with work with that, in general, 3 food as chef of a television format a television as chef of food Cooking reality shows, in turn, complexify the relation between local Cooking reality shows, The idea of gender is associated with the narrative structure developed in reference to more The idea of gender is associated and global, especially due to the way they build the authority of the and global, especially with food. Instead of highlighting judges and the relationship they have the daily life of the contestants, focus on the food prepara- these shows in turn, is, usually, of the “best” cook. This choice, tion and the choice of participation the without therefore, - judges the by made integrally (who usually cannot taste and through highly the dishes) the audience say that such preparation is not subjective criteria. The judges usually or they praise a of the ingredients good because they "don't like it" of one author- judges' The "original". the to similar is it that saying preparation because of the place of speech they ity is not put to the test, especially context, chefs in a global and mediatic they are renowned have - usually, famous restaurants of reviews. owners are filled with gastronomic that As the bigger objective of the contestants is to please the judges, they the premise that the contestants that the premise is, they are the people; that are “real” dosage of giving a high the format, for regionalizing main responsible Survivor and such as Big Brother, shows, Some reality local culture. because they the regionalization of the genre potentialize The Farm ways, the day-to-day life of these contestantsexplore, in many (CANN, 2006; RAICHEVA-STOVER, DUNBAR, 2010; HUFF, 2013; HAYES; local develops a daily ritual linked to the each program 2010). This way, to dress, historically contex- how which comprises, for example, identity, for a certain tualized accents, preference (pool, sunbath, kind of leisure im- an has audience the Moreover, activities. other among etc) parties, portant formats related to reality shows. role in the regionalization of the select, in many cases, the winner After all, they are the ones who help expand the television experience in to, at times, in addition of the show. (2012) and Hill and other spaces, as Campanella virtual communities out. (2005) pointed comun. mídia consumo, são paulo, v. 14, n. 39, p. 127-146, jan/apr. 2017 14, n. 39, p. v. comun. mídia consumo, são paulo, 3 establishedor less socially of pro- conventions. The television forma tis linked mainly tom odes and marketing strategies (KEANE e MORAN, and publicity duction, business models, workflows 2008). genre commonly transformed into a format transformed genre commonly 134

ARTIGO global withlocal Brazil Colombia: MasterChef vsMasterChef television andtheprivate companies explored the productionand controlled property, regulationandconcessionofthecommercial In 1963, the country created a mixed system, in which the government RojasPinilla. this countrywasinstitutedbythedictatorshipofGustavo that wasmorecontrolledbythegovernment.In1954, thetelevisionin participation ofprivatecorporations,Colombiadevelopedatelevision telenovelas. WhileinBraziltheopentelevisionwas developed withbig ofGlobo’sthan Colombiantelevision,especially duetotheexportation owner oftheRCNTelevisión. mingo group,owner ofCaracol Televisión, and theArdila Lullegroup, private, sharethemainsliceoftelevisionincountry:SantoDo- of themainopentelevisionchannels,inColombia,twobiggroups,also cially in open TV. While in Brazil great conglomerates are proprietors consolidated media companies, whichactalmostasmonopolies,espe- and inColombiashow similar characteristics.Bothcountrieshavebig, Even thoughtheyaredevelopedindifferent ways,televisioninBrazil regional experiences. develops strategiestodealwiththeseelements,adding splashesoftheir the hegemonic references of"goodcooking"Eachcompetitor,however, can travelthroughglobaltypesofcuisineandhaveknowledge about that that whosucceedsinthesecompetitionsusuallyisthecontestant mands thatthecandidates reproducethe preparation.Itisveryexplicit with. Inmanycases,theshow choosesaninternationaldish andde- the show, regardlessofthetypecuisinethateachoneisacquainted ing realityshows areobligatedtouseingredients exclusivelychosenby and amoreglobaldemandfromthejudges. need tocreateadialog betweentheir localexperiencesandknowledge comun. mídiaconsumo, sãopaulo, v. 14,n.39,p. 127-146 , jan/apr.2017 Until the90’s, Braziliantelevisionhadmoreinternationalprojection In regards to the relation they have with the food, contestants ofcook - In regardstotherelationtheyhavewithfood,contestants ariane dinizholzbach 135 Combining

ARTIGO . Accessed in: jun. 2015. MasterChef Colombia was the eighth MasterChef Colombia was the eighth 4 5 food as chef of a television format a television as chef of food In Brazil, MasterChef is broadcasted by Bandeirantes and they have and they is broadcasted by Bandeirantes In Brazil, MasterChef MasterChef franchise, in turn, is one of the most importantMasterChef franchise, in turn, is one shows Information available at: http://goo.gl/pZx3oF Information available at http://goo.gl/14IBHe. Accessed in: jun. 2015. most watched program in 2015 and the fourth most popular program of program popular most fourth the and 2015 in program watched most RCN throughout the year. comun. mídia consumo, são paulo, v. 14, n. 39, p. 127-146, jan/apr. 2017 14, n. 39, p. v. comun. mídia consumo, são paulo, 4 5 produced four seasons already (2014-2017), all presented by the jour- already (2014-2017), all presented produced four seasons Fogaça, by the chefs Henrique and judged Padrão nalist Ana Paula the first season was Carosella. In Colombia, and Paola Erick Jacquin and presented by the model and released in 2015, broadcasted by RCN Ron- Bahamón. The three judges were the chefs Paco presenter Claudia is show the cases, both In Zubiría. de Nicolás and Rausch Jorge cero, at 10:30 PM, in (Tuesdays, evening broadcasted during the week, in the 8PM, in Colombia) and 18 contestants Brazil; Mondays and Fridays, ratings: In Brazil, the good audience are selected to compete. They had example, leaded the ratings during last episode of the season in 2015, for to Ibope. according 19 minutes programming of the channels. Because of a big market pressure, César César pressure, market big a of Because channels. the of programming 1991, the pri- Constitution of instituted, in the government Gaviria’s giving this companies, telecommunication of television and vatization - (MONTOYA-LON groups big economic the market to the space of is one of the seven biggest television Colombia DOÑO, 2014). Today, the last 10 years, Latina (PIÑON, 2014). During markets in America for- array of television have imported a significant Brazil and Colombia reality shows. mats, especially 136 - main creators, producers and dis of Endemol Shine Group, one of the Kingdom. The format was already tributors of content in the United in at least 200 territories. exported for over 30 countries and broadcasted Roddam produced it for Franc The idea was created in 1990, when into a format, and transformed was modified BBC. In 2005, the show ratings in many countries that and, since then, reaches high audience for example, it became in prime time. In Australia, broadcast the show 2010). in history (ETTER, the third most watched show

ARTIGO of nativefoodinrelationtointernationalcuisine. andthevalue judges, thegeographicandsocial originofthecontestants versions willbeanalyzedunderthreeperspectives:theidentityof works therelationglobalvslocalinBrazilandColombia,both individually how MasterChef andingroups.Inorderto understand out sparingcriticism andthechallengesincludepreparationsmade must bemadeinafixedtimeframe,the judgesappraisethedishes with- Thepreparations generate anenvironmentoftensionandexpectation: the challenges,allversionsuseatleastthreestrategiesthat,combined, dren’s birthday, happyhouretc.).To createarhythmofcompetitionto celebrated (French, vegan,Amazonian…) oranevent(wedding, chil- worked on(pork,goatcheese,chocolate,etc.),atypeofcuisinetobe themed challenges,whichmaycompriseaspecific ingredient tobe dishes thatareappraisedbythreeorfourrenowned chefsthrough a cookingcompetition.Ineachepisode,thecompetitorsmust prepare haute cuisine and values complex preparations and artistic presentation haute cuisineandvaluescomplex preparationsandartisticpresentation about thistypeofcuisine, Jacquin isclearlyaconnoisseur ofFrench grandmothersandthat,therefore, shehasagreatknowledge with Italian uations. WhilePaola frequently repeats,duringtheshow, thatshegrew naturetotheeval- intention oftheprogramtoconceive acosmopolitan Paola Carosella,andaFrench judge,ErickJacquin, whichindicates the Brazilian judge,Henrique Fogaça, inaddition toanArgentinian judge, uate their preparations.InBrazil,MasterChefchosetohaveonlyone versions of MasterChef adopted a format with a triad of judges to eval - constructed, as Lévi-Strauss observed. The Brazilian and Colombian than another. Theperceptionofflavorishistoricandcontextually preferences caninfluencetheir selectionofadish asbeing "tastier" tohaveinmind thehistoryofjudgeandtheiris important food example, how much saltseparatesadullplatefromsaltyone?),it intheevaluationofadishConsidering thesubjectivitycontained (for Identity ofthejudges comun. mídiaconsumo, sãopaulo, v. 14,n.39,p. 127-146 , jan/apr.2017 The objectiveofMasterChefistofindthebestamateurcookthrough ariane dinizholzbach 137

ARTIGO food as chef of a television format a television as chef of food The Brazilian judge Fogaça brings to the show an urban identity and an urban brings to the show Fogaça The Brazilian judge the identity of the judges in a MasterChef Colombia deals with comun. mídia consumo, são paulo, v. 14, n. 39, p. 127-146, jan/apr. 2017 14, n. 39, p. v. comun. mídia consumo, são paulo, he is known in the gastronomic field as an expert in street food, normally as an expert in street food, normally field in the gastronomic he is known concept of urban is contextu- his However, way. made in an artisanal of São Paulo. his career entirely in the streets alized: He developed state,This mean would of what metonymy into a transformed thus, is three judges run to that, the In addition the show. Brazilian food for and artists are targetwhose restaurantsfamous audience Paulo, São in important it is of the “paulista Finally, to highlight connoisseurs night”. happens on the mainstream media, the legitimacy of the three judges and prizes from magazines such as Veja because all of them received Prazeres da Mesa. – Jorge Rausch and there are two Colombians Firstly, way. different char- This Roncero. Paco – judge Spanish one and – Zubiría de Nicolás the nationality and the Hispanic acteristic enhances the presence of has Jorge Rausch, particularly, identity through the eyes of the judges. restaurants Medellín and in many parts of Colômbia, such as Bogotá, Cartagena, of many parts of the coun- which makes him knowledgeable turn, has restaurants Nicolás, in in Bogota,try. from but he is originally Cartagena, in street food. The cosmopolitan an expert besides being part gastron- since the three judges studied indirectly, is shown of the show cuisine. French in and Jorge was specialized omy outside of the country, importantis Roncero sense, because, besides this in Paco image of The many restaurants he owns throughout the world, in a foreigner, being like the Brazilian version, the judges Madrid, Ibiza and Shanghai. Just Guide, Michelin the importantfrom prizes won including institutions, guide. gastronomic French renowned of the plates. Jacquin, in numerous occasions, criticized a preparation a preparation criticized occasions, numerous in Jacquin, plates. of the inspired that were dishes to criticizing was “ugly”, in addition saying it in executed. Paola, were badly in his opinion, cuisine, but, by French ep- In the second of a preparation. the professionalization turn, values to taste of a contestantisode, she refused because he had used a dish saying that "I don't eat canned things". pickled palm hearts, 138

ARTIGO a certain tendencyfromthejudgestovalueamoreglobalizedcuisine. a certain other thingsthatarenotalwaysinspiredbyyourland”,whichclarified reason forthatwasgivenbyPaco Roncero: “Ibelieveyouhavetocook motherland, the city of Valledupar, but she was eliminated. The only Mayramadeadishwould betheegg.Thecontestant inspiredonher They,18 contestants. then,hadtocreateadish whoseprotagonist bia, theparticipants were stillappraisedsotheshow wouldgettothefinal cuisine hasadifferent tone.InthefourthepisodeofMasterChefColôm- international cuisine;itonlymeansthatthewaytheyperceive regional not meanthattheregionalcuisineismorevaluedinrelationto parts ofBrazilassecondary. heterogeneity, thus,ismarkedby anassumptionthatconsidersother fromtheNorth.The the world,eventhoughthere aren’tanycontestants erogeneous landscape that addspeople fromdifferent partsofBraziland six participants, inturn, seem tobe selected ina way of composing ahet- ipants -lessthanthenumberarefrom other regions.The ofpaulistas region ofBrazil,especially SãoPaulo, consideringthatonlysixpartic- fromtheSoutheast that MasterChefBrazilprioritizestherepresentation It is very clear nese participant, representing the “global” contestant. from thefederaldistrict. Besidesthe17participants, thereisoneChi- ofParanástate (Londrina),onefromMatoGrosso (Cuiabá), andone Porto Seguro,respectively)Finally, thereisoneparticipant fromthe Horizonte andSalvador)onefromthecountryside(Araguari (Belo and Bahia,withtwoparticipants each(11%),onefromthecapital withthreeparticipants (16%),followedthe capital), byMinasGerais Santos eParapuã). Insecondplacethere isRiodeJaneiro (exclusively and three from the countryside(São Roque,pants being from the capital Paulo, four partici - which represents approximately 38% of the total, ofSão In MasterChefBrazil,outof18competitors,7arefromthestate Geographic andsocialoriginofthecontestants comun. mídiaconsumo, sãopaulo, v. 14,n.39,p. 127-146 , jan/apr.2017 The biggest presence of a Colombian identity among the judges do ariane dinizholzbach 139

ARTIGO food as chef of a television format a television as chef of food The 18 competitors from Colombia act towards a slightly more a towards Colombia act competitors from The 18 status when we com- The social is also different of the competitors comun. mídia consumo, são paulo, v. 14, n. 39, p. 127-146, jan/apr. 2017 14, n. 39, p. v. comun. mídia consumo, são paulo, 140 heterogeneous representation. Four competitors are from the capital, are from competitors representation.heterogeneous Four three are from Barranquilla Medellín and four are from Bogotá (22%), Ipiales, from Palmira, there is a competitor the other cases, (16%). In Ocaña, Santa Marta, Cúcuta Quibdó, Cauca Even though e Bordo de seven of the 33 Colombian states, belong to only these cities they geo- case In only one regions from the whole country. graphically comprise same state: from a there is two cities Cúcuta, Ocaña and that integrate the northern state of Santander. The priority for choosing competitors importantpolitically more the on lies Bogota, cities: and Medellín the of the country that dominates but there isn't a region Barranquilla, in the Brazilian as it happens with São Paulo identity of the competitors that they have exactly the same the other hand, the fact version. On from Bogotá and Medellín, two of the most pop- of competitors number history political recent the in present strongly being besides cities, ulated is symptomatic. There seems to be a selection with a of the country, although there is a bigger representation in high degree of direction, relation to the geography of the country. Colombia. The vast majority is pare MasterChef Brazil to MasterChef com- the of part bigger a version, Brazilian the in however, employed, class: Event to the urban middle petitors holds positions usually related statician, artist, etc. lawyer, producer, advertising person, administrator, social professionally into a different Only one competitor can be framed category: Iranete Santana, In the from Bahia, who is a housekeeper. competitors with professions that Colombian version, there are many to the Brazilian contestants: advertising person, ar- are similar Lawyer, are linked whose professions of participants chitect, etc., but the number agent, housekeeper, telemarketing classes is bigger: Painter, to lower restaurant better the Colombia seems to conciliate clerk and barman. status with the social complexity of the country by dealing of the social way. in a slightly more heterogeneous participants

ARTIGO edge asatooltoboostthetension.In14 preparationsconsideredpopular,usingthislackofknowl- know certain version explores many situations in which many competitors do not pants causesamajor difference intheshow’s narrative.TheColombian 14 general consulofFrance, Damien Loras.InMasterchefColômbia,the dish,prepare alasagna,typicalItalian andserveitatthehouseof dom. InthesixthepisodeofMasterChefBrazil,competitorshadto had tomakeabeefWellington, typicaldish fromtheUnited King- ences ofeating“well”.OnbothversionsMasterChef,thecompetitors according tothecommonsense,especially regarding Eurocentricrefer- of prioritizingtheinternationalcuisineconsideredas“goodcooking” Both intheBrazilianandColombianversions,thereistendency Native elements:Regional food inrelationtointernationalcuisine comun. mídiaconsumo, sãopaulo, v. 14,n.39,p. 127-146 , jan/apr.2017 ing ahighlyEurocentrictone tothedemandsmadeforcompetitors. the preparation,show invitedtheFrench chefFabrice LeNud,giv- of acrèmepatissière,one thebasesforFrench sweetcuisine.To teach of themostdifficult challengeswasthecreation,inseventhepisode, soup thatwasunknown tothecompetitors.InBrazilianversion,one hadto guesstheingredientstestants andreproducea borsch,aRussian according to the competitors eyes. In the Colombian version, the con- mon for MasterChef to elaborate challenges that include unusual dishes dishes:create threeItalian Risotto,lasagnaandgnocchi. flict generatedinsidethecompetition. less thepersonalproblemsofparticipants andfocusonlyonthecon- career ofbeing achef. TheBrazilianversion,ontheotherhand,explore struggle shehadthatmadeherchangepathsinsteadofinvestingonthe show buildsabiographyofDiorlin sothattheycanclarifythefinancial make next.Atthesametime,invariousoccasions,edition ofthe Diorlin Andradesayssheneverhadrisotto,adish shewouldhaveto th This difference ofthepartici inrelationtothesocial- representation Beyond thestrongpresenceofanEurocentriccuisine, itisverycom- episodedivided theparticipants intothreecategoriesthatshould th episode,thecompetitor ariane dinizholzbach 141

ARTIGO episode, the competitors episode, the competitors th food as chef of a television format a television as chef of food In MasterChef Colombia: Regional cuisine is shown in a particular cuisine is shown In MasterChef Colombia: Regional What differentiates MasterChef Brazil from MasterChef Colombia from MasterChef Brazil MasterChef What differentiates comun. mídia consumo, são paulo, v. 14, n. 39, p. 127-146, jan/apr. 2017 14, n. 39, p. v. comun. mídia consumo, são paulo, 142 way and defines the identity of the competitors; and 2) the regional as- way and defines the identity of the aspects, but it comprises pect is defined not only through Colombian sense. Although, as previously South American elements in a broader com- cuisine, international an to accustomed are judges the analyzed, their petitors, in many cases, use the challenges as a way of reinforcing celebrate to planned are challenges many side, one On identity. local South American cuisine: In the fifth episode, the competitors had to flew to Manaus, place filled with “different", "unusual”, “weird" ingre- “weird" "unusual”, filled with “different", flew to Manaus, place throughout the episode. They strolled as the competitors said dients, built an environment Market and the video edition around the City from the about the ingredients of surprise, fear and lack of knowledge looked chocked when they saw competitors perspective. Some of them fish) and handled Amazonian "for the first time" a pirarucu (typical to root), in addition sauce extracted from wild manioc tucupi (yellow they had to cook with some of looking overwhelmed when they knew of a famous Schaedler, owner invited Felipe The show these delicacies. restaurant the use of in Manaus, who worked as a teacher, teaching and helping competitors understand ingredients the food of Amazonian competitors had to create increase the exotic experience, the region. To Kawasaki, Fernando on boats crossing the Amazonas river. dishes their described what his team prepared and said he felt like from São Paulo, that distances the competitor from “talking in a behavior like an indian”, the place. this regional cuisine and stereotypes in the way they deal with food is the presence of cuisines related to the of cuisines related is the presence they deal with food in the way the regional Brazilian version: In the identity of each country. regional region; to the Southeast does not belong defined by what is normally the regional food of distancing 2) there is a tendency and, generally, the to deal with decides . When the show dish into an exotic and turning North and North- emphasis on the cuisine from the regional, there is an from of distancing challenges are thought in a way east region and the In the 12 of the participants. the familiarity

ARTIGO other momentsoftheshow. which endsupbalancing thevalueonglobalcuisinethathappensin ing abouttheapproximationthereisbetweenfoodandcook, by them. During the episode, the elimination challenge is made think- plate”. Healsocites his parentsandgrandmothersaysheisinspired represent myland,Ocaña.For meitisanhonortomakethisdelicious mar says,moved,thathewashavingthechancetouseingredients “that and looksverycalmwhileshecooks.Intheendofpreparation,Wil- Diorlin,inturn,saysshealreadypreparedcevichebefore contestant ticipant WilmarSánchez sighssmiling andsays:“Ah,ceviche!”.The Next, heshows apreparation madeinsideacup.Immediately,- thepar Rica,Mexico…Inallthecountriesofregion”. Colombia, Costa dish. This dish is prepared in Peru. It is also prepared in Chile, Ecuador, said thatthecompetitorsmust prepare "a completelySouthAmerican was possibletoperceive how atelevisionformathassimilar elements two seemingly oppositesidesofthesamephenomenon. Ononeside,it revealingcharacteristicsfromthe mediastarts itself. ofamediaticdeveloped. Whenitturnsintoaprotagonist product,food ofthesociety whereitis contextualwaysofinterpretation strumentalizes reality shows, giventhatthefoodisanomnipresent elementwhichin- This phenomenonisparticularlyrelevantwhenwe analyzecooking transnationalization, butalsototheregionalizationof culturalproducts. show. Itbrings together, inacomplexway, social elementsrelatedtothe A televisionformatissomuch morethanaformula ofaglobaltelevision Final considerations their roots.Atthebeginning ofthe15 homage totheir family, expressingwithpridemanyfeelingslinkedto petitors createddishes inspiredbytheir regions,inaddition topayan judge Paco Roncero.Ontheotherside,inmanyepisodes,com- iterranean cuisine,butalsofoundhereinthePacific ocean”,saidthe work withlambfromPatagonia and withtuna– “typical fromtheMed- comun. mídiaconsumo, sãopaulo, v. 14,n.39,p. 127-146 , jan/apr.2017 The analysisofMasterChef BrazilandMasterChefColombiashowed th episode,thejudgeJorgeRausch ariane dinizholzbach 143

ARTIGO food as chef of a television format a television as chef of food Both in MasterChef Brazil and in MasterChef Colombia, the effort the Colombia, MasterChef in and Brazil MasterChef in Both reveal many sides in relation The origin of the competitors, in turn, both versions deal with food. how central to perceive it is Finally, comun. mídia consumo, são paulo, v. 14, n. 39, p. 127-146, jan/apr. 2017 14, n. 39, p. v. comun. mídia consumo, são paulo, made by the production was very clear in giving a more cosmopolitan was very clear in giving a more made by the production contes- the of preparations the regarding environment Eurocentric and and Italian,tants. are recurrently Remarkable cuisines, such as French Brazil while in However, judges. from the judgement and mark the cited in Colombia this construction is attention, cuisine gains special French to sharing space with in addition less dependent from legitimate figures, this characteristic identity of the judges. Perhaps the local and Hispanic country related to what is foreign. reveal the judgement created by each in particular, Europe, and France, In Brazil, for example, the western form an important reference of good cuisine. the in While audience. their perceive media mainstream way the to and the Southeast are highlighted with MasterChef Brazil São Paulo bigger representation, lies on in MasterChef Colombia the emphasis the three most populated and important Bogota, cities: Medellín and of representa almost omnipresence the - way, In a similar Barranquilla. class in the Brazilian version reveals, perhaps, tion of the urban middle to build an "ideal" group of characters that relates with desire a mediatic In the case of MasterChef Colombia, there is a slightly the audience. from ideal) in relation to the social bigger balance (although it is far the country. of differences especially cuisine, international on reinforcing a tendency there is If European, the presence of regional cuisine is relevant in both versions builds the idea of regional of MasterChef. In Brazil, the reality show for what it as an exotic element, whose elements are defined especially even though it is produced in different contexts. In both versions, the contexts. In both in different it is produced even though challenges, by similar competition formed presented a food program intense dramatical with edition judges, and an highly critical by three turned dealt with food the shows way how the other side, the load. On and characteristics reflected social experiences, whose them into unique act of cooking. behaviors around the mediatic 144

ARTIGO CAMPANELLA, B. portuguesas. CadernoEspaçoFeminino, v. 19,n.1,2008. BRAGA, I.M.D.Culinária nofeminino: osprimeiros escritospor livrosdereceitas Companhia dasLetras,1996. BOURDIEU, P. Asregrasdaarte:gêneseeestruturadocampoliterário.SãoPaulo: References what theycook. petitors, whouseelementslinkedtotheir rootsasawayoflegitimizing the otherhand,regionalisdefinedinanexpressivewaybycom- does notbelongtotheSoutheastregion.InColumbianversion,on comun. mídiaconsumo, sãopaulo, v. 14,n.39,p. 127-146 , jan/apr.2017 Routledge, 2005. HILL, A.RealityTV:audiences andpopular factualtelevision.Londres:NovaYork: Nova Science Publishers,2010. HETSRONI, A.(Ed.).RealityTelevision : mergingdeglobalandthelocal. NovaYork: Publishers, 2010. (Ed.). Patterns andAlliancesontheRealityTelevision Show Survivor. In:HETSRONI,A. HAYES, E;DUNBAR,N.DoYou Know whoyourFriends are?AnAnalysisofVoting GOODY, J.Cocina,CuisineyClase.Barcelona:Gedisa Editorial, 1982. Australasian Policing, v. 2,n.2010. ETTER, B.TheMasterChefPhenomenon–aNewStyleofLeadership forPolicing? Zahar, 2011. ELIAS, N. Acesso em:fev. 2017. cados epossibilidadesdeentrelaçamentos.2012.Disponívelem: http://goo.gl/eCC0fp. DEMOZZI, S. F. practices. InternationalJournal ofCulturalStudies,v.18, n.3,2014. COLE, J.Makingoverpractice:usingfoodmagazinestomakeconsumption chain analysis.Media,Culture&Society,v. 1,n.19,2015. ______. TheadventofthetransnationalTVformattrading system:aglobalcommodity ican invention.Media,Culture&Society,v. 1,n.34,2012. CHALABY, J.Attheoriginofaglobalindustry:TVformattradeasanAnglo-Amer- Journal ofMedia&CulturalStudies,v. 27,n.5,2013. CANN, V. ConstructingthenationinrealityTV: acomparativestudy. Continuum: Brasil. Porto Alegre:Sulina,2012. Reality Television: mergingdeglobalandthelocal.NovaYork: Nova Science O processo civilizador. v. 1. Uma História dos Costumes. Rio de Janeiro: : representações, signifi- Cozinha do cotidiano e cozinha profissional: representações, Os olhos do Grande Irmão: uma etnografia dos fãs do Big Brother ariane dinizholzbach 145

ARTIGO – Mitológicas I. São Paulo: Cosac & Naify, 2004. Naify, & Cosac Paulo: São I. Mitológicas – o Cozido e Cru O food as chef of a television format a television as chef of food comun. mídia consumo, são paulo, v. 14, n. 39, p. 127-146, jan/apr. 2017 14, n. 39, p. v. comun. mídia consumo, são paulo, Date of submission: 08/08/2016 Date of submission: Date of acceptance: 03/15/2017 Associate teacher of Media Studies at the Universidade Federal Fluminense Fluminense Federal at the Universidade Studies teacher of Media Associate by UFF, Communication PhD in (UFF) and a part of the PPGCOM-UFF. Uerj. with postdoctoral degree in History by About the author . Londres: Praeger, 2006. . Londres: R. Reality Television HUFF, 2, 9, n. New Media, v. Engines. Television New MORAN, A. Television’s KEANE, M; 2008. C. LÉVI-STRAUSS, System Media for the Colombian C. In Search of a Model MONTOYA-LONDOÑO, (Orgs.). Media Systems M. A.; MÁRQUEZ-RAMÍREZ, M. GUERRERO, In: Today. 2014. Macmillan, in Latin America. México: Palgrave and Communication Policies Criti- Values. as Television Cooking and Competition Line: Format, On the OREN, T. 8, n. 2, 2013. , v. cal Studies in Television industry: The case of transnational broadcasting television PIÑÓN, J. A multilayered 73, n. 3, 2014. Gazette, v. International Communication Latin America. The Brother in The Success of Big Watch: See, You‘ll M. You‘ll RAICHEVA-STOVER, : merging de Bulgaria. In: HETSRONI, A. (Ed.). Reality Television Post-Communist 2010. Publishers, Nova Science York: global and the local. Nova Formats. Television of Popularity the Global Understanding McTV: S. WAISBORD, 4, n. 4, 2004. New Media, v. Television in of food and ethical personhood: TV cooking shows Pedagogies F. WEI, T; MARTIN, 25, n. 6, 2015. of Communication, v. Asian Journal postwar Taiwan. 146

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