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Paletot Mi-Centre

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Paletot Mi-Centre 1905 #13 Mid-Waisted Coat -- Paletot Mi-Centre To make this coat, we will choose a light wool, of a color in fashion, if possible beige, gray, olive-green, French blue or red. Red is very much in favor for children, at this moment; white as well. For the back and the fronts, we need a piece of fabric having 18 to 20 centimeters in height and 45 in width. When it is a matter of clothing people, one measures the height along the edge of the fabric; clothing would not be sturdy if it were differently made. But for a doll, that does not do anything. [Editor: I believe Tante Jacqueline is referring to the placement of patterns for people along the selvedge, i.e. the length of a coat along the warp of the fabric. But for a doll, whose clothing will not need to bear much stress, the length of a coat can be placed along the warp or weft of the material.] Let us say 20 centimeters in one direction and 45 in the other. Copy the pattern in the magazine, then cut out by following the drawing with the scissors. You have, for the moment, two patterns to take, that of the back and that of the front. Fold your piece of fabric in two, in the direction of its width, which will leave in your hands a piece of 20 centimeters by 22 to 23. Place your two patterns the one beside the other on this fabric folded double, by putting the part marked AB on the pattern of the front at about 1 centimeter from the two free edges of the fabric and well on the straight thread. At the side of this first pattern, place the other while taking care that the line DC of the front looks at the line DC of the back, but while leaving between the two C of the bottom at least 2 centimeters, and by placing the line of the back lying between the two X well on the straight thread of the fabric. You keep the patterns well in place with pins and you cut out while sparing quite generously the seams, because if ever the dress of Bleuette is puffing out, the coat would likely be too small. It is better to make it larger that not large enough. There is always time to take it in, at the fitting. You will notice in several places dotted lines. Here is the explanation. In the pattern of the front, the diagonal (slanted line) which goes from the neck, close to the shoulder, to the middle of the front (point A) indicates the direction in which you will fold back the lapel. The straight line, which follows the edge of the front at about one centimeter, indicates how much the coat crosses. The dotted line that is at the bottom of the [side and center back] seams indicates that, from the right side where this dotted line begins, you can, if you want, stop the seam and leave the two edges free. The little coat will be in this way more relaxed, more youthful. The dotted line of the sleeve indicates the dimensions of the underside of the sleeve, because you will need for it two patterns for the sleeve: the top which is drawn by the black line, and the narrower underside which is marked by the dotted line. The line AA of the sleeve indicates the straight thread of the fabric. Now, we will sew. Baste first, to test [the fit]. The two seams of the shoulders OO are sewn together; the two seams under the arms D C are assembled in the same way. Once these two seams are made, try on the coat by putting it wrong side out on Bleuette. It will thus be easier for you to alter the seams, if it is necessary. We won’t occupy ourselves with the lapels yet. We will fold them back and arrange them when the sleeve is assembled. To cut out the sleeves, one needs a piece of fabric having 11 centimeters height and 22 of width, or two pieces having each 11 centimeters on each side. You trace your two patterns, top and underside, cut them out and place them on two layers of fabric, while taking care that your two fabrics are wrong side against wrong side or right side against right side, without which you would cut out two sleeves for the same arm. Then, you baste the sleeves to test them. The line AA of the underside is put together with the line AA of the top, the line OO of the bottom with OO of the top. The whole well developed with basing stitching for testing, sew the seams of the coat and of the sleeves with a closed backstitch, or all in at least a backstitch, and above all do not pull on the thread; that would make the seams pucker, which, in wool, must appear quite neat. To improve them, if one wants to lend to you a good iron, we will iron them. Before ironing the seams, one opens them with the finger and one puts a little water on them. Then bang! a good blow with the iron; the fabric, softened by moisture, is flattened and the seam is quite neat. When you will have ironed the seams, you will leave them to dry, and, if you want a final improvement, edge these seams with a small ribbon straddling each edge of the seam [allowance]. This is thus done for clothing that one does not line; but I hasten to say to you that here this is not really necessary. The lapel of the overcoat is made by folding back the top of the front, the wrong side is found now on the right side, one folds back while following the dotted line. One can line this lapel with a light-colored [or bright colored] silk, or embroider it. The same embroidery will be found then at the bottom of the sleeve. P.S. – I remind my readers not yet subscribers that they can buy Bleuette for 2.fr.50 in postal orders or French stamps, addressed to M. Henri Gautier, director of the Semaine de Suzette, 55, quai des Grands-Augustins, in Paris. The sending is done by free parcel post in France and the bordering countries. T. J. Translation copyright 2010 Deirdre Gawne. Not for sale. www.dressingbleuette.com .
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