Issue No. 220 Friday, January 13 - Thursday, January 26, 2017 ORDER DELIVERY TO Severe winter ‘Serbian' Serbia's YOUR DOOR +381 11 4030 303 leaves New Year: More mountains: Winter [email protected] - ISSN 1820-8339 1 snowbound reasons to wonderlands for BELGRADE INSIGHT IS PUBLISHED BY 0 1 city shivering celebrate everyone

Page 5 Page 7 Page 11 9 7 7 1 8 2 0 8 3 3 0 0 0 Even when the Democrats longas continue to likely is This also are negotiations Drawn-out Surely the situation is urgent Serbia Many of us who have experi - We feel in-the-know because bia has shown us that (a.) no single no (a.) that us shown has bia party or coalition will ever gain the governa - form to required majority negotiations political (b.) and ment, will never be quickly concluded. achieved their surprising result at last month’s general election, quickly it became clear that the - re sult was actually more-or-less the result election other every as same in Serbia, i.e. inconclusive. as Serbia’s politicians form new political parties every time disagree with they their current party - reg 342 currently are (there leader political parties in Serbia). istered the norm. One Ambassador Belgrade-based recently told me he was also alarmed by the distinct lack of urgency among politicians. Serbian “The country is standstill at and a I don’t understand their logic. If they are so eager to progress towards the EU and en - theycome how investors, courage go home at 5pm sharp and don’t work weekends?” overtime. little a warrant to enough Opposition challenged to agree EDITOR’S WORD Predictability Political By Mark R. Pullen elections Serbian numerous enced rate ourselves as pundits when it comes to predicting election - re sults and post-election moves. our experience of elections in Ser urged to - - - on presidential candidate NEWS build on Opposition parties in Serbia can only resultsNEWS of win the upcoming

2016 “The situation in the party seems “Dacic will eventually side with Nikolic agreed: “The question is Fearing they might not cross the Pensioners leader, Jovan Krkoba - The reported price is the post of In addition, the Socialists are bar Tadic has denied talk of horse- At the same time, Dacic seems re - reach an agreement “If we don’t Source: Balkan Insight (www.balkaninsight.com) Balkan Insight (www.balkaninsight.com) Source: presidential election party over which way to turn. extremely complicated, as we try to convince the few remaining lag - gards that we need to move out of one Socialist shadow,” Milosevic’s Party official complained. in a bid to guide his party into Tadic the European mainstream, but much of the membership and many offi - cials may oppose that move.” will the party split or ‘old- back down,” he noted. timers’ threshold to enter parlia - 5-per-cent ment, the Socialists teamed up with Association of Pensioners and the the led by business - United Serbia Party, man Dragan Markovic “Palma”. bic, Palma and Dacic are all pushing for a deal with the Democrats. of deputy PM, with a brief in charge security for the Socialist leader. gaining for other ministries, includ - ing capital investments, Kosovo and education, Belgrade media reported. trading with the Socialists, maintain - ing that ministries would go only to those committed to working for the “strategic goal”. government’s negotiations with luctant to call off the nationalists. with the DSS and Radicals, par ty leadership will decide on future steps”, Dacic announced, following par new country’s of session first the liament on Wednesday. if they unite behind Serbia’s economy a joint candidate, experts say – but outperformed page 10 whether they can most predictions agree on one candi- last year – but date is to be seen. hile the football world watch - es events unfold at the Euro -

experts say the a strong current also However, Mihajlo Markovic, a founder of Markovic, a prominent supporter Some younger Socialist officials Neighbourhood Matters faces extinction unless it changes. flows in the opposite direction, led by party veterans enraged the Tadic. prospect of a deal with recently warned of a crisis the party, if Dacic opts for the pro-European “nat - bloc, abandoning the Socialists’ ural” ideological partners. of Milosevic during the 1990s, is seen as representative of the “old- timers” in the party who want to stay policies, true to the former regime’s even though these almost ruined the Socialists for good. have voiced frustration over the con - tinuing impasse within their own Football Rebellion Football pean Championships in Austria and pean Championships in Switzerland, Bosnia is experiencing led by fans, play - a soccer rebellion, enraged ers and former stars who are by what they see as corrupt leaders football association of the country’s leaders. W government must June 13, 2008 Issue No. 1 / Friday, Maja ŽIVANOVIĆ not fritter away the hile most par- ties in Serbia, gains in pay and page 5 including the strongest, the pension rises, or ruling Progres- sive Party, have it risks ending up yet to name their candidates in the

W conomists are warning that pro - over Serbia’s uncertainty longed “This year has been lost, from the spring presidential elections, the op- where it started. After eight years of stagnation, the pro-European and nation - With Nikolic believes the Socialists, led “The group of younger Socialists Business Insight Costs Mounting future could scare off investors, lead investors, lead future could scare off to higher inflation and jeopardise prosperity for years to come. says standpoint of economic policy,” Econom - the of Stamenkovic Stojan ics Institute in Belgrade. to Serbia’s late president, Slobodan to Serbia’s Milosevic, and reformists who want the party to become a modern Euro - pean social democrat organisation. the Socialists returned to centre stage after winning 20 of the 250 seats in elections. parliament in the May 11 alist blocs almost evenly matched, the Socialists now have the final say on the fate of country. by Ivica Dacic, will come over to if only out of a pragmatic de - Tadic, sire to ensure their political survival. gathered around Dacic seems to be adding said, Nikolic majority”, the in that these reformists believe the party position Democratic Party, DS, already E decided on January 10th to support the Ombudsman Saša Janković. Stevan VELJOVIĆ “Guided by the interests of citizens, we are sure he is the best candidate and fter business results Friday • June 13 2008 that he will win,” Dragan Šutanovac, the in many areas out- DS leader said, adding that Janković performed expecta- has “the personal values for which the tions in 2016, experts DS stands”. say the good results THIS ISSUE OF

should be taken as an Belgrade Insight

Continued on pages 2 and 3 BY: IS SUPPORTED Vučić and Janković. Photo: Beta, Media Centre Belgrade encouragement to finish the process on a new gov - ense negotiations ernment have divided the ranks

A “It looks as if the Socialists will Simultaneous negotiations held This divides “old-timers” loyal Socialist leader Ivica Dacic remains the Serbian kingmaker Socialist leader Ivica Dacic remains Lure of Tadic Alliance Splits Socialists Tadic Lure of government, old pro-EU While younger Socialists support joining a new, over the prospect. revolt Milosevic loyalists threaten in Belgrade By Rade Maroevic that started in 2014, when Serbia intro- which holds of the Socialist Party, of the balance power between the blocs and has yet to announce main which side they will support. move towards a government led by the Democrats,” political analyst Mi - lan Nikolic, of the independent Cen - tre of Policy Studies, said. “But such a move might provoke deeper divi - sions and even split the party.” with the pro-European and national - ist blocs have drawn attention to a deep rift inside the Socialists. T COMMENT duced austerity measures including pensions and salary cuts. This means the government needs to further reduce the budget deficit Balkans 2017: Economies will and public debt, push on with reforms to public and state-owned enterprises and further improve the general busi- grow despite political tensions ness environment. None of these processes will end in Most Balkan states will be slightly better and Montenegro – as well as worsening to recover after bleak years of stagna- 2017 but are important in terms of con- relations between some other coun- tion and recession – and recovering tinuing the efforts that started to show off at the end of this year than they were tries – Kosovo and Serbia, and Serbia faster than most Eurozone economies, results in 2016, experts say. and Croatia, for a start. where growth of even 2 per cent would Some salaries are already increased, at the beginning - despite the best efforts Growing Russian influence could be seen as enviable. but experts warned that this good news prove a divisive factor, too, pleasing The dilemma facing the region's gov- for workers comes with a warning that of the political class to keep tensions on some countries – Serbia – while alarm- ernments will be resisting the tempta- pay hikes must not affect the decrease the boil. ing others, like Romania. tion to capitalize on anticipated growth in the public deficit recorded in 2016. by hiking public spending, as Romania Results in 2016 outperformed expec- TWO CHEERS FOR ECONOMY is already doing. tations especially in the public financ- Marcus TANNER - but some bad ones, too. Economies Balancing workers' demands for es and in economic growth. Growth look like gathering speed in 2017 as There is cause for modest cheer higher wages – which would power reached 2.7 per cent instead of project- hat does Santa growth in the Eurozone slowly picks about the region's economies in 2107. consumption – a good thing - while ed 1.5 per cent of GDP, while the general have in store up and as domestic consumption Most banks are forecasting growth rates not raising debt to unmanageable government deficit was only half of the for the Balkan rises. of around 3 per cent in Bosnia, Monte- proportions - a bad thing - will be a planned level – at around 2 per cent of countries this Less welcome events in store start negro, Serbia, Croatia and Romania. challenge. GDP, instead of 4 per cent. year? Some with the possibility of civil conflict with- Some make lower estimates, but the good presents in some countries – Bosnia, Macedonia overall picture is of a region continuing W Continued on page 10 Continued on page 8

+381 11 4030 306 [email protected] 2 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, January 13 - Thursday, January 26, 2017 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, January 13 - Thursday, January 26, 2017 3 SERBIA SERBIA

Continued from page 1 Opposition challenged to agree on presidential candidate

“Janković only has a serious chance Most of them have already named in the second round [of the elec- their candidates. The Democratic Par- tion] if Jeremić is not the candidate,” ty of Serbia, DSS, November named Spasojević opined. Aleksandar Popović. He added that while Jeremić could Its coalition partner, Dveri, has gain the support of a significant num- meanwhile backed Dveri leader ber of voters, few of them see him as Boško Obradović. Together the two their first choice. parties won about 5 per cent of the Boban Stojanović said the Demo- votes in April. crats may have made a mistake in com- It is still not clear to whom they mitting themselves to Janković when will lend their support in the second Jeremić is more recognizable in public. round, since - despite deep differenc- However, he added: “Janković has done es in orientation - both pro-European his job properly and can be connected and Euro-skeptic parties in Serbia with the basic principles of the Democrats. have a common goal to overthrow the “There is no controversy in the Dem- ruling Progressives. ocrats about him whereas I’m not sure As expected, the ultra-nationalist that would be the case with Jeremić.” Serbian Radical Party is fielding its [Jeremić quit the Democratic Party notorious leader, Vojislav Šešelj, who after it lost power following the 2012 was acquitted of war crimes by The general elections]. Hague tribunal, ICTY. He continued that Janković could The Deputy Prime Minister and also count on the votes of many citi- leader of the Social Democratic Party zens who are not party-affiliated. of Serbia, Rasim Ljajić, has also an- Čedomir Jovanović, head of Liberal nounced his candidacy. Democratic Party, which run in coali- Klačar said both the West and Rus- tion with the SDS in April, in December sia would follow the presidential warned that his party would not sup- election closely to see if a pro-EU or port either Janković or Jeremić. pro-Russian candidate emerged tri- The party said it supports the idea of umphant. the pro-European opposition uniting He said that attention would be behind one candidate, however. It is ex- pronounced in this election in the pected to announce its final decision in light of Moscow’s growing political late January. and media “presence” in the Bal- kans. RIGHT-WING PARTIES RUN- “Among them [the various rivals] NING ALONE will be strongly pro-Western and pro- Russian candidates, so it is certain The right-wing parties will not, of that foreign policy will be an impor- course, support a joint candidate of tant topic of the campaign,” he con- the centrist, pro-EU opposition, either. cluded. Four years on, Nikolić is again counting on the support of the Progressives. Photo: Beta

The DS leader Dragan Šutanovac said that Janković has “the personal values for which the DS stands.” Photo: Beta

hile most pro- less certain, although he retains an ad- to field its own candidate or support fessor Vesna Rakić Vodinelić and other “because … it is not realistic to expect European opposi- vantage. the candidate of the Progressives, prominent individuals. the movement to run its own candi- tion parties are still “It would be a surprise if someone Stojanović noted. He soon received support from the date, although that is not excluded”. mulling whether to else was the candidate of the Progres- Nikolić is unlikely to be the joint opposition New Party, led by Zoran The party of former President Boris follow the Demo- sives,” he added. candidate of the Socialists and Pro- Živković, and, in January, from the Tadić, the Social Democratic Party, SDS, crats’W lead, analysts say the opposition “Nikolić is still the most realistic so- gressives but the situation could be dif- Democratic Party. Together, these two told BIRN that it is also willing to agree can only beat the Progressives’ candi- lution,” he added. “However, recent ferent if Vučić were the candidate, he parties won about 6 per cent of the on a single opposition candidate. date if it unites behind one challenger. events, such as his announcement that suggested. votes in the early general election held “It is in the interest of citizens is to They say any opposition challenger he would inform the public about his Dušan Spasojević, also from the Fac- in April 2016. come up with a joint candidate … be- will face an uphill battle, taking on the decision [to run or not] by Christmas, ulty of Political Sciences in Belgrade, Spasojević said decision of the Dem- cause then their chances of beating dominance of the ruling party. and then the sudden withdrawal of that said he would not be surprised if Nikolić ocrats to support Janković had boosted Vučić, or his candidate, will be higher,” However, the task may be easier if announcement, plus the fact that the was the Progressives’ candidate. his chances “because Janković has no Konstantin Samofalov, from the SDS, the competition is with Serbia’s cur- Progressives have not campaigned to “It is the simplest option, because it organisational structure [in terms of a told BIRN. rent President, Tomislav Nikolić, rather raise Nikolić’s ratings, raises suspicions does not mean a major change in the political party behind him], which is im- He said the SDS would make an effort than Prime Minister, Aleksandar Vučić. that some solutions are still to be dis- system and Vučić would not leave his portant in a campaign. to get the parties to sit down and agree Nikolić and Vučić are the two most like- cussed.” post as Prime Minister,” he said. “How- “No matter that the [former ruling] on one candidate without prejudging ly candidates. Klačar said the Progressives were ever, I can't exclude Vučić running for Democrats do not have the same ca- the outcome. Nikolić, whose mandate expires this playing for time. The party would “stra- president,” he added. pacity as before, their support is still of “It is less important whether it is Saša year, was elected as the Progressive tegically delay its decision until the last He explained that, just as the op- great importance because that [lack of Janković or [former Serbian Foreign Party’s candidate in 2012, when he moment because such a position suits position parties are under pressure to party backing] is Janković’s great weak- Minister] Vuk Jeremić. One candidate won the second round of the election them because of the indecision and agree on a single candidate, the Social- ness,” he explained. is essential,” Samofalov added. against Boris Tadić, candidate of the disunity among the opposition”. ists feel the same pressure to support The Enough is Enough party, which Asked whether the DS’s decision to Democratic Party. Boban Stojanović, a teaching assis- whoever stands for the Progressives. also won around 6 per cent of votes in back Janković was pushing the SDS tant at the Faculty of Political Sciences Like Stojanović, he said Vučić has a bet- April, has not decided whether to run in the same direction, Samofalov de- CHOICE BETWEEN in Belgrade, said it was almost certain ter chance of winning if he is the joint its own candidate or support Janković, clined to answer, saying there was still VUČIĆ AND NIKOLIĆ that Nikolić or Vučić would be the can- candidate. however. time for the DS to change its mind. “It is didate. “There is no need to make things a question for the DS,” he said. Four years on, Nikolić is again count- “Nikolić himself has said that he OPPOSITION’S ONLY CHANCE easier for Vučić by running ahead of The hesitancy on the part of the ing on the support of the Progressives. would run but he will not run if the can- IS UNITY CANDIDATE time,” Dušan Pavlović, from Enough is Social Democrats is no surprise as However, Vučić has not yet decided didate is Vučić,” he said. Enough, said on January 10th. Jeremić is Social Democrat leader who to back and has announced that “The Progressives are analyzing Ombudsman Janković, who has “The opposition shouldn’t do that. Tadić’s close ally. The fact that Jeremić the decision will be announced in mid- public opinion and do not know what crossed swords on many occasions We should wait for Vučić to say [who he also recently ran an impressive cam- February. to do, because Nikolić could have big with the Serbian authorities, made it backs] and then we’ll say [our own posi- paign for the post of UN Secretary Gen- Bojan Klačar, from the Center for problems in the second round, [so] I be- clear he will run after a number of intel- tion],” he added. eral has added to his image. Free Elections and Democracy, CeSID, lieve there is a serious chance that the lectuals, writers, artists and public fig- But Spasojević said that now the Analysts say the opposition would told BIRN that the options are relatively Prime Minister will be the candidate,” ures urged him to stand in November. Democrats had declared their support have a fair chance of winning with simple for the Progressives. Stojanović added. The list of supporters was signed by for Janković, Enough is Enough will Jeremić as the joint candidate, but, If Vučić is their candidate, he would The Progressive Party’s main coa- the diplomat and writer Dragan Velikić, have to take a decision. if both Janković and Jeremić run, it almost certainly win, perhaps even in lition partner, the Socialist Party of the director Goran Marković, actors Ne- He said Enough is Enough would could damage the chances of either of the first round. Nikolić’s chances are Serbia, also has yet to decide whether bojsa Glogovac and Branko Cvejić, Pro- probably rally to Janković eventually them. 4 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, January 13 - Thursday, January 26, 2017 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, January 13 - Thursday, January 26, 2017 5 BELGRADE BELGRADE Freestyle Severe winter leaves sledging tournament snowbound city shivering Heavy snowfall offers frosty and below-zero temperatures thrills have left parts of the capital Each year, Belgraders have a chance without heating to take part in a much-loved amateur freestyle sledging competition, in or running water, which participants speed downhill while homeless using anything but sledges. shelters and clinics have Ivana NIKOLIĆ its 25th anniversary, so the organis- ers have promised lavish awards for been stretched elgrade's only ski slope at the fastest, oldest, youngest and the Košutnjak Park is host to most creative participants. During to capacity. the 20th annual ‘Sankani- the competition, participants will get jada', or sledging compe- free warm drinks, the organisers also Belgrade's one and only ski slope dates back to 1992. Photo: Facebook/Aleksandar Club-SKI STAZA tition, which takes place said. on January 14th at noon But if you are more into skiing then metres. Still, that does not drive ski poned was last January, as there was only a couple of minutes' drive from the BIRN Team Bat the Aleksandar Club slope. sledging, you also have options at enthusiasts away because as many as not enough snow. city centre. A daily ticket costs 500 di- However, if you think you should get Košutnjak. There are two ski lifts, locat- 180 skiers can go up the slope at once," However, Stanimirović now has big nars [aroun €4], and for the same price ow temperatures, wind the best sledge possible in order to win, ed on the opposite sides of the resort. Stanimirović told Belgrade-based plans for the 25-year-old ski slope. "We you can also enjoy skiing at night, if you and snow or rain will you would be wrong. This competition Đorđe Stanimirović, the owner of the newspaper Politika recently. have the idea of introducing one novel- prefer it. continue in Belgrade requires anything but real sledges – be Aleksandar Club and the ski slope, ex- Belgrade's one and only ski slope ty this summer – skiing on grass. What is And if you are not into either of these throughout January, it sacks, tires, plastic bags or so-called plained that there are two skiing routes dates back to 1992, and for its first seven certain is that sledging on the grass will options, you can always come and en- according to the latest ‘klisko', small sledging mats mostly – one is rather steep while the other is years it could be used all year round be possible even when the snow is gone joy warm drinks while enjoying the monthly report from made of plastic, which are popular not that demanding and is good for be- due to its artificial carpet underlay. This as we managed to find special boards view of New Belgrade and the snowy LSerbian Hydrometeorological Office, among the youngest entrants. ginners. was abandoned in 1999, but sledging for the grass slope," he explained. slopes of Košutnjak in the same time. perpetuating the problems that have Apart from hosting the 20th ‘San- "The only downside of the slope is and skiing never went away - the only So if you can't make it to any of Ser- Registration for the competition on troubled some of the capital’s resi- kanijada', the club is also celebrating its length, it is not that long, only 250 time when the ‘Sankanijada' was post- bia's ski resorts, head to Košutnjak – it is January 14th starts at 11am. dents for days already. Since temperatures fell below zero on January 5th, the city has faced trou- bles with its heating system, which Ivana NIKOLIĆ tions officer for GSP, told media. when a rehearsal of a play was held on left the centre of the capital without Play on "When we confirmed it was safe, the tram. warmth on January 11th, although the play with be staged for we handed them the tram's layout At the moment, the tram is decorat- authorities fixed the problem the next the first time on the so they could come up with every- ed and illuminated in a seasonal style, day. wheels rolls ‘Culture Line' tram at the thing needed for the play - costumes, with loudspeakers playing Christmas Across Belgrade, local residents end of February or the scenography and the like," Paunović and New Year's songs and broadcast- have also been dealing with a lack Across Belgrade, local residents have also been dealing with a lack of running water as the pipes in some areas have been bursting due to the freezing. Photo: Beta beginning of March, the added. ing information about ongoing and of running water through town city'sA public transport company GSP The ‘Culture Line' tram has been upcoming cultural events. as the pipes in has announced. cruising Belgrade's streets since Sep- The idea for the Culture Line was put some areas [beds] in waiting rooms as well, and if The name of the play has not tember 2015. forward by GSP and supported by Bel- have been The rooms are necessary, we will remove tables from A popular ‘culture tram' which has been revealed yet, but it will be During the city's annual Book Fair, grade's Culture Secretariat and the Vuk bursting due the dining room to make room for Snow boosts Stray dogs performed by actors from Belgrade's well-known Serbian actors appeared Stefanović Karadžić Culture Institute. to the freez- still crowded, more mattresses,” Milovanović told sledge sales offered shelter been promoting arts events on Vuk Stefanović Karadžić Culture on the tram, reading out stories by the The main purpose was to use a tram ing tempera- newspaper Politika. Institute. most famous Serbian comedy writer, as "the biggest mobile commercial" to tures. so we put beds “There are even two people in some A craftsman in the Belgrade neighbourhood of Belgrade’s central mu- Belgrade's streets for over a year "They [theatre staff] asked us to Branislav Nušić. inform Belgraders and visitors to the Belgrade beds, but no one is complaining. Any- Vračar has reported a remarkable rise in the sales nicipality, Stari Grad, has check the technical possibilities [for It has also been used for promoting city about cultural events in the capital, Ambulance said on January 11th that in corridors as thing is better then a cold bench in a will soon host its first live drama of his hand-made sledges since the severe weather called on people to bring staging a performance on a tram], various cultural events in the city, and Paunović said. while it has the capacity to respond well. There are park or a cardboard box,” she added. spell started. stray dogs to the munici- performance. primarily the safety of passengers and attracted attention during BITEF, Bel- It will continue to operate until Janu- to all emergency calls, elderly people Belgrade’s mayor, Siniša Mali, said pal building in Makedon- th th actors," Jovana Paunović, a public rela- grade's most important theatre festival, ary 14 . should not leave their homes unless [beds] in waiting on January 11 that everyone who Dragi Mladenović told Večernje Novosti newspaper ska Street 42, where the it’s necessary. needs help is receiving it, adding that that the entire stock of 400 sledges that he made five authorities have provided The city’s public television station the city is also providing assistance to ORDER DELIVERY TO rooms as well, years ago has been sold in just a couple of days. In a shelter to protect them Studio B said that due to slippery those who live alone and need addi- just four hours on January 10th, he sold the last 160. from the freezing cold. YOUR DOOR roads, snow and ice, many Belgrade tional care. Find your copy of +381 11 4030 303 and if necessary, [email protected] residents have sought help for frac- “We have 774 endangered house- “As winter began, I thought that this year would be The municipality has Belgrade Insight here: http://www.balkaninsight.com/en/ tures and sprains. we will remove holds, mostly elderly people. We talk the same as the last, but with the first snow all [the temporarily installed dog page/subscribe-to-belgrade-insight The Orthopedic Institute Banjica with them, provide them with food, sledges] were gone. I sold all 400 sledges, I have kennels, saying that many said on January 12 that it was ready to tables from water, medicines, everything they only 15 more that were ordered from the country- stray dogs around the city accept all potential patients, however. need,” Mali said. side. I’ll ship those today and I have not one more are barely surviving the LAZAR LUX APARTMENTS HOTEL EXCELSIOR HOTEL JUMP INN TOURIST ORGANISATION OF SERBIA THE BRITISH INTERNATIONAL Ljubodrag Zajić, the deputy director the dining The city is also running at full capac- left,” Mladenovic said on January 11th. winter. Address: Stjepana Ljubiše 31 Address: Kneza Miloša 5 Address: Koče Popovića 2a Address: Čika Ljubina 8 SCHOOL OF BELGRADE of the Institute, told Studio B that the ity in its efforts to clear the streets of Address: Smetanina 12 clinic has enough doctors and that room to make snow, and on January 12th, all the busi- MONUMENT HOTEL HYATT BISTRO BAR NATIONAL FOUNDATION staff levels can been increased if nec- est thoroughfares were cleaned up. Address: Vojvode Stepe 198 Address: Čika Ljubina 9 Address: Milentija Popovića 5 FOR DANCE RADISSON BLU OLD essary. room for more However, the authorities have urged ONCE KOVAČ, ALWAYS KOVAČ Address: Kolarčeva 3 MILL HOTEL, BELGRADE The city’s public shelter for adult residents and businesses to clear the SKVER 44 ONCE ”KAFANA”, ALWAYS ”KAFANA” HOTEL MOSKVA HOTEL CROWN PLAZA Address: Bulevar Vojvode Misica 15 homeless people however has been snow and ice in front of their homes Address: Požeška 44a mattresses.” RESTAURANT KOVAČ Address: Balkanska 1 Address: Vladimira Popovića 10 RESTAURANT BIZU www.radissonblu.com/hotel-belgrade hosting 143 people, about 40 more and business premises themselves. Address: Andre Nikolića 1-3 modern ethno restaurant INTERGALACTIC DINNER then it can normally accommodate. About 60 welfare recipients were HOTEL SQUARE NINE HOTEL VOZAREV RESTAURANT ĐORĐE Address: Internacionalnih brigada 22 Suzana Milovanović from the shel- Suzana Milovanović, also engaged to help clear the snow in Address: Studentski trg 9 Address: Pop Stojanova 16 CAFE CAFFE LOUNGE Address: Moravska 10 Address: Hotel Jugoslavija, Bulevar ter said on January 10th that because capital on January 12th. Address: Vase Pelagića 48 the city’s public shelter Mihajla Pupina 85A of the extra numbers, some of the peo- The Serbian government an- CAFE SNEŽANA HOTEL LE PETIT PIAFF for adult homeless ple have been temporarily transferred nounced last year that it is planning Address: Knez Mihailova 50 Restaurant Mali vrabac INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL OF BELGRADE MIXER HOUSE to gerontology centers across the city people to amend the Law on Social Protec- Address: Skadarska 34 Address: Karađorđeva 46 Address: Temišvarska 19 and to nearby Obrenovac and Mlad- tion to make claimants work in return KOLARAC enovac. for their benefits – a move that was Address: Studentski trg 5 HOTEL MERIOT PIZZERIA ALO-ALO KNJIŽARA APROPO Address: Kolarčeva 7 “The rooms are still crowded, so we strongly criticised by human rights Bulevar Oslobođenja 221, Tel: 011 2462 343 Address: Vase Čarapića 2-4 Svetozara Markovića 19a Address: Cara Lazara 10 www.restorankovac.com put beds in corridors as well. There are groups and NGOs. 6 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, January 13 - Thursday, January 26, 2017 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, January 13 - Thursday, January 26, 2017 7 SERBIA BELGRADE

COMMENT Serbian New Year's Eve: Turbofolk party time

After World War II, in the Communist era, how- To experience ever, there was a bit of a taboo about Serbian New Year's Eve, as it was considered a celebration of the quintessential exclusively Serbian national sentiment. This was antithetical to the goal of creating a supra-ethnic Serbian New Year's community, so celebrations were banned and res- taurants were required to close before midnight Eve, you need to find on January 13th. Opponents of the system celebrat- ed at home by playing folk songs as a small act of a Turbofolk kafana rebellion. Since the 1990s and the break-up of Yugoslavia, and get ready for a Serbian New Year has re-emerged and been freely celebrated, often with public concerts. But it still re- raucous party. tains its rakish image. That is in large part because January 14th is not a public holiday in Serbia, so revellers often have to nurse hangovers at work or school. Thankfully, January 13th, 2017, is on a Fri- day, so there is little excuse not to give your Friday night out an additional boost. So, what to expect? At its most typical, a Serbian New Years' Eve celebration takes place in a kafana and involves gyrating on random pieces of furni- ture while rocking to the oriental beat of Turbo- folk. It involves a singer with shrill vibrato voice, often in a tight-fitting colourful or sequined outfit, and emotional patrons jumping up and down and hugging each other and occasionally throwing some money at the band. The weird and wacky music, like Serbian New Year generally, has a somewhat controversial place in the Serbian psyche due to its historical baggage. Srđan GARČEVIĆ Turbofolk started happily enough in 1980s as a movement to modernize traditional folk sounds he extended holiday season in by adding influences from disco and rock. What Serbia finally ends with a bang ensued was a manic and entertaining mix of and a hangover on Serbian New synth-beats and accordion and a lot of wailing of Year's day, on January 14th. Like hyper-sentimental lyrics about love and the vari- our belated Christmas, it is a con- ous troubles it brings. sequence of the Serbian Orthodox The music became immensely popular over TChurch's continued adherence to the old Julian the whole of the former Yugoslavia and the wider calendar, which lags 13 days behind the predomi- Balkans and spawned many starlets. The most nantly used Gregorian calendar. Unlike Christmas, notable was Lepa Brena - born Fahreta Jahić, from Serbian New Year's eve is a very raucous affair and Brčko, Bosnia - who became the first Yugoslav su- a great excuse to party hard to the sounds of Tur- perstar with sold-out concerts, several films, mar- bofolk in a smoky kafana. riage to a tennis star, and even a Barbie-like doll Serbian New Year's Eve has more of a reputation made in her likeness. for cheekiness and debauchery than most Serbi- From the start, its unsophisticated rhythms, ba- an holidays. City folk got the idea to celebrate the nal themes and popularity in roadside kafanas, th start of the New Year in the mid-19 century from meant urbane cultural elites shunned and ridi- Since the 1990s and the break-up of Yugoslavia, Serbian New Year has reemerged and been freely celebrated. Photo: Facebook/Teatro their counterparts in Paris, Vienna and London. It culed it. This feeling of disdain grew as Turbofolk's Photo: Facebook/Teatro has none of the complicated customs common to rise coincided both with the rise of Serbian hard media exploited the smiling faces, tacky glamour ties playing Serbian Turbofolk - than through any other Serbian celebrations: the only requirement man Slobodan Milošević and with the bloody dis- and happy songs to project normality in Serbia, high-minded art form explicitly promoting toler- is to have a good time until dawn. integration of Yugoslavia in the 1990s. while most people were, in fact, being impover- ance and regional co-operation. After the Serbian state officially switched to the The oriental-synth beats became the soundtrack ished by hyperinflation and food shortages. It did Like the relationship between rap and gun vio- Gregorian calendar in 1919, most restaurants and to the devastation of war, while its colourfully not help that many of the Turbofolk stars became lence, the link between Turbofolk and social ills in hotels organized parties for both New Year Eves, to made-up and garishly dressed stars became the involved in politics, crime and fanning national- Serbia is tenuous. The lyrics are often slightly non- give their guests two chances to enjoy themselves. public faces of a tragic era. The Milošević-linked ism. The most famous example is Svetlana "Ceca" sensical or overwrought laments about loves lost More reasons to celebrate Ražnatović (nee Veličković), who married Željko or unreciprocated, but are not much worse than Ražnatović Arkan, a mobster-turned-warlord who those in globally known popular songs. Although VENUE: SUGAR AND SPICE Hristov and French DJ Olivier Giaco- around the world, and have made Blaywatch is an elite Belgrade splav shocking that entrance is going to be led paramilitary operations in Bosnia and Croatia. it used to be the music of choice of traditionalists Address: Bulevar Nikole Tesle 3 motto. There's a good chance that you regular appearances at Berlin's legend- and is going to be lively every Friday free tonight because huge Serbian WE DO CATERING FOR ALL KINDS OF CELEBRATIONS After Arkan's murder in 2000, Ceca was herself and nationalists, there are many closeted Turbo- Price: €10 won't find many parties for Orthodox ary Berghain. Serbian DJs Flip, Kristijan night, including this one. And believe folk music star Seka Aleksić has been involved in illegal activities: she was held in custo- folk fans in Serbia's liberal, Western-leaning sets. Contact: +381 11 408 01 23 New Year that have food and drinks Molnar and others will be supporting. it or not, 11 euros at Blaywatch will booked to perform, which should dy after the assassination of Prime Minister Zoran Jelena Karleuša, another Turbofolk star who came included in the price, and this one is get you free drinks all night, so that's make for a very crowded Teatro. So Đinđić for possession of illegal weapons, and up in the 1990s, is a staunch promoter of liberalism Contrary to popular belief, not all no different. Seven euros will get you VENUE: BETON a pretty sweet deal already. Katarina if you really want to go here tonight, charged with embezzlement in 2011. It all fanned and LGBT rights. Orthodox New Year's parties rely on in the door, but nothing else. Address: Karađorđeva 2-4 and Galliano Band will be playing make sure you show up pretty early a moral panic about Turbofolk, which many still Turbofolk is slowly gaining recognition from Serbian folk music for entertainment. Price: €10 live music all night, most Serbian pop to get in and get a good spot. see as essentially corrupting: tasteless at best and other parts of contemporary Serbian culture as This party will be all about 1990s-era VENUE: DRUGSTORE Contact: +381 66 22 21 51 and folk, but some foreign music as chauvinist and criminal at worst. well. Mimi Mercedez, a rising star in Serbian rap, techno and will feature five different Address: Bulevar Despota Stefana 115 well. Of course, you'll have to pony VENUE: SPLAV AMSTERDAM However, if you visit a kafana on Serbian New extrapolates from Turbofolk tropes - including DJs, mostly from Serbia but some Price: €10 If you'd like to party to some world- up more if you want an actual seat Address: Kej Oslobođenja bb Year's Eve, you can see that this moral panic did Ceca's popular lyrics - to promote individualism from Macedonia as well – keeping it Contact: +381 63 82 87 928 class house music, then this is the or booth. But if you're fine with drink- Price: €20 not reduce the appeal of its current EDM and and female empowerment. Her recent hit with strictly Orthodox. Sugar and Spice one for you. Beton will be featuring ing while standing up and dancing all Contact: +381 66 22 21 53 R'n'B-infused incarnations. Like other moral pan- Polo Čare, "Turbofolk me je naterao" ["Turbofolk already has an after-party planned The cool thing about Orthodox New famed New York City house DJ and night, don't worry about it. ics about music, from Jazz onward, it is also very made me do it"] spoofs the popular concerns with for 6.30am, so if you don't want to go Year this year is that is falls on a Friday. producer Sandy Rivera, along with a Finally, a party that has some food pizzeria naïve. Turbofolk and blames it for partying hard and home, you don't have to. No drinks or This means that there are bound to be bunch of Serbian support DJs. Beton VENUE: TEATRO included! Amsterdam is a popular Ironically, Serbia's Turbofolk stars are one of causing havoc. food are included in the ticket price. plenty of cool parties around town, is a hip club in Savamala and there's Address: Sarajevska 26 splav in Zemun that is known as a the greatest sources of Serbian soft power in the So, if you are feeling adventurous and interested even if they are not specifically being no reason why this party won't be a Price: Free Entrance great place to party, but also a fan- region, thanks to their huge fan bases across the in the quintessential Serbian New Year, find a Tur- VENUE: MAGACIN DEPO billed as ‘Serbian New Year's Eve Par- good one to attend. Once again, no Contact: +381 66 22 21 51 tastic restaurant. With the 20-euro ex-Yugoslav countries as well as Bulgaria and Ro- bofolk kafana, and experience the effect for your- Address: Travnička 3 ties'. Once such party is going on at drinks are included in the ticket price entrance fee, you'll be able to enjoy a caffe mania. self. At worst, you will have a whole weekend to re- Price: €7 Drugstore, Belgrade's premier under- and obviously no food either. Anyone looking for a true Serbian huge spread courtesy of an all-night Even in the bloody 1990s, cultural exchange cover and become an upright citizen by Monday. ground dance music venue. Coming experience for Orthodox New Year's buffet. Drinks are included in the between Bosnia, Croatia and Serbia continued Here's another electronic music party from Israel, Red Axes are a genre-bend- VENUE: BLAYWATCH Eve and not just a cool party should price as well. TABOO will be provid- Beograd,Svetozara Markovica 19a though cassettes and CDs of Turbofolk music. if you're allergic to Serbian folk. Fea- ing duo who create electronic music Address: Brodarska bb check out Teatro. If you want the ing the live music, which will be a tel. 011/3246 947,323 88 88 More people in Croatia participate in cultural rap- Srđan Garčević is a writer and a founder of The turing at Magacin Depo will be two with a dirty, post-punk edge. These Price: €11 full-on Serbian turbo-folk experience mix of Serbian and international pop prochement with Serbia through "cajkas" - par- Nutshell Times blog. popular producers, Bulgaria's Metodi guys have played all of the best clubs Contact: +381 63 34 34 33 tonight, look no further. It's pretty music. 8 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, January 13 - Thursday, January 26, 2017 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, January 13 - Thursday, January 26, 2017 9 BUSINESS BELGRADE

Continued from page 1 Serbia Trapped migrants brave urged to Serbia's freezing winter build on results of 2016

he lower-than-expect- the judiciary, police and the military ed deficit means that started the year with slightly higher the public debt, which wages, as the government in December is now equivalent to 74 raised salaries in the public sector by to 75 per cent of GDP 5 to 7 per cent and pensions by 1.5 per – way above the legal cent. They also had received a one-off ceilingT of 45 per cent – should start to bonus of 5,000 dinars [around €40] in fall earlier than predicted. December. Pavle Petrović, president of the Fiscal Despite the public-sector cuts, aver- Council, an independent state body in age salaries in Serbia have continued charged with monitoring public finances, to rise and reached 45,393 dinars [€367] said on January 10th about half of the de- in October 2016, which is explained by crease in the public deficit came about as higher pay in the private sector. a result of better tax collection, while an- Even before civil servants received other 40 per cent came from cuts in sala- their pay increases, Finance Minister ries in the public sector and pensions. Dušan Vujović hinted that the govern- Finance Minister Dušan Vujović hinted that the government might discuss another Photo: Flickr/Simone D McCourtie World Bank ment might discuss another increase increase in salaries and pensions in 2017, if economic growth and budget revenues exceed predictions. PAY HIKES PUT FURTHER in salaries and pensions in 2017, if eco- GROWTH AT RISK nomic growth and budget revenues ex- tax revenues, which turned out to be the quality of the state administration, 10.1 and 2.8 per cent lower than the 2013 ceed predictions. unrealistic. as top performers sometimes quit the rates respectively. The Hungarian police pushed Abaidullah back to Serbia each time. Serbia’s economy is expected to “We have predicted GDP growth of 3 He described 2017 as the year of a state sector first. For 2017, the National Bank of Serbia continue its growth in 2017, with a per cent but this is a conservative pro- possible slowdown in fiscal consoli- There is also a risk that jobs that predicts low inflation, a stable inflation 3-per-cent growth rate predicted by the jection,” Vujović told national broad- dation, which must be followed by a remain vacant due to retirement are, rate of 3 per cent plus/minus 1.5 per Government, while the World Bank pre- caster RTS on December 10th. stronger reduction in the fiscal deficit. under pressure, filled again and that cent and similar levels of foreign direct Migrants keep dicted growth of 2.8 per cent. “If we have a higher rate of growth, Also the Fiscal Council warned in its rationalization ends with and equal or investment, FDI, compared to 2016. Growth of 2.7 per cent in 2016, al- more favourable conditions for the report that “an abrupt termination of even greater work force. Serbia recorded €1.5 billion of FDI by coming to Serbia though the highest in the last eight creation of new jobs, better conditions such measures [earlier cuts in salaries This already happened a decade ago, last October. The December figure will years, so far only helped Serbia to re- for taxes and contributions on salaries, and pensions] would annul the fiscal when work force had been cut by 10 per likely be close to the 2015 level, when but survival is turn to the level of economic activity there will be room for talks about that consolidation results achieved so far, as cent between 2002 and 2006 and by Serbia recorded an inflow of €1.8 bil- from 2008. [pay rises],” he added. it would roll back the deficit to the level 2008 again exceeded the initial level. lion. getting tougher Pavle Petrović said part of GDP Miladin Kovačević, director of Ser- of 3.5 to 4 per cent of GDP, again acceler- Another risk concerns public and In December, the government adopt- growth was down to good domestic bia’s Statistical Office, said on January ating growth in public debt.” state-owned companies in the process ed new rules on subsidies for investors, as the border policies and part was a consequence of 10th that in March this year the average of privatization or restructuring whose stating that all companies that invest benign regional trends, such as low oil salary could reach €400, as private-sec- PUBLIC COMPANIES AWAIT liabilities are often transferred to the more than €100,000 and employ at with Hungary prices and interest rates and growth in tor wages are expected to climb, follow- RATIONALISATION state budget. least ten people can claim back €3,000 imports from EU countries, which are ing the increase of salaries in the public One half of the predicted deficit in to €7,000 per employee. is now almost Serbia’s biggest trade partners. sector. The government target for 2017, ac- 2017 is earmarked for paying for acti- Arsić said levels of investment in “Because of this, other countries in There were also some hints that the cording to the Fiscal Strategy for 2017- vated guarantees for loans that public 2016 were high not only in Serbia, but impossible to the region like Romania, Bulgaria and government may talk about reducing 2019, is to further reduce the number of and state owned companies, such as elsewhere in Central and Eastern Eu- Croatia have also seen solid growth taxes on salaries – an old demand from public employees by 5,000, while a ban Srbijagas, took before 2015. rope. cross without rates, significantly better than the business – to boost legitimate employ- on new hires has been extended from Any new debts, and some were in- “An abundance of cheap capital forecasts at the beginning of the year,” ment. March 2017 until the year’s end. curred in 2016, pose a potential risk to positively affected Serbia among other paying the Petrović told the Serbian daily Danas Experts, on the other hand, have Ana Brnabić, Minister for State Ad- taxpayers who could end up paying for countries, so it is realistic to repeat last on January 4th. called for caution, explaining that sav- ministration, told TV B92 on January such liabilities. year’s result or even improve on it,” he smugglers dearly. “But these favourable international ings in salaries and pensions, which cut 10th that 23,000 staff had left the pub- Milojko Arsić says the fate of public explained. circumstances will not last forever,” he the annual deficit to 1.7 per cent of GDP, lic administration so far and another companies is important for fiscal con- On the general business environ- warned. were one of the keys to success in im- 5,000 will go this year. solidation and hopes progress will be ment, he said low inflation and interest Natalia ŽABA “The government must be prepared plementing fiscal consolidation so far. However, she stated that the big issue made, as the issue is high on the agenda rates had experienced an improve- for that moment, so that a future tide, The government cut pensions remains with public companies that of the IMF and World Bank, and to an ment, but almost no progress had been ore than 1,500 The line for food. Photos: BIRN/Natalia Žaba which will inevitably come, does not and salaries in the public sector over employ a total of 147,000 staff. They are extent, the government itself. made in other areas. migrants from pull us down, just as the tide is now 25,000 dinars [203 euros] a month in yet to undergo rationalization in terms “If this issue is not solved, it is likely “This applies to the work of the Pakistan and Af- Shapur from Afghanistan has spent He says they will stay as long as they says around 1,500 persons are currently one day soon. Only 15 years old, he has pushing us upwards.” November 2014. of the number of employees. that the government will again have state administration and to reform ghanistan, many two months in these conditions. He feel needed, but the “how long will that based in the abandoned barracks. spent two months in Serbia and has The Fiscal Council’s latest report Milojko Arsić, Economics Professor Rationalization caused no major to cover some of their liabilities,” he of the judiciary, where we don’t see a of them children and his friend Kamrad are gearing up to take?” question goes without an an- “We have a problem because more tried to cross the border with Hungary published in December described the in Belgrade, told BIRN that given the disturbance to the labour market so added. trend towards improvement,” Arsić and teenagers, travel to France. swer. people are coming but almost none of three times. Each time he was caught 2017 budget as “credible but not ambi- decrease in the deficit in 2016, the main far: the unemployment rate fell from explained. Mare battling Serbia's icy winter weather Although Serbia's Ministry of Social While the EU struggles to solve the them leave Serbia. We have 6,000 plac- by the police. tious enough”. challenge in 2017 would be to stabilize 23.9 per cent in 2012 to 13.8 per cent in BENIGN INTERNATIONAL On the possible effect of early elec- in abandoned army barracks in Bel- Affairs has asked NGOs not to distrib- migrant crisis in general, solving the es in our centres, and around 1,000 are His friend Abaidullah has had a simi- It argued that the general govern- the results achieved thus far. the third quarter of the 2016, according TRENDS MAY NOT LAST tions on the economy, Arsić said elec- grade with little hope of moving for- ute help and so encourage people to particular problem of people who have still free, but people don’t want to go to lar fate. Over the two months he has ment deficit projected at 75.2 billion “The greatest risk for 2017 is the pos- to a labour force survey, which also in- tions in general were not a good time ward on their journeys. linger, a humanitarian organisation become stuck in Serbia is looking in- distant camps,” Gerginov told BIRN. spent in the Belgrade barracks, he has dinars [€604 million], or 1.7 per cent of sibility of another increase in salaries cluded workers in the invisible, “grey”, When it comes to doing business for investment and might slow down Many have been there for weeks if distributes meals every day in the soluble, too. “We’re struggling to provide more made it twice to the border, but neither GDP, does not imply any further reduc- and pensions and tax reductions,” he or “shadow” economy. in Serbia, several factors improved in other reforms. not months. With no running water area. Migrants mainly from Afghanistan space, families are sharing beds for in- attempt was successful. The Hungarian tion of the deficit compared to 2016; warned. Rationalization so far was performed 2016, including economic growth, in- “It is hard to imagine more serious ju- or electricity, they keep themselves “We distribute a thousand meals and Pakistan have been using the old stance, just to create more space so that police pushed him back to Serbia each the expected reduction of subsidies or He said a combination of these meas- mostly through a natural reduction in flation and, after many years, cheaper dicial reforms, a stronger battle against warm using improvised fireplaces in- a day here and we always run out barracks near the railway station in Bel- no one is left outside, but I find it hard time. rationalization in public administration ures would repeat some of the mistakes the workforce, including retirement. loans. the ‘grey’ economy or solving the status side the barracks, which produce a lot of food,” Paul Linger, a volunteer for grade for months. to convince people who stay in the bar- According to him, crossing the bor- was absent from the budget plan. made in the past, when governments However, as the Fiscal Council noted, Interest rates on loans in 2016 fell to of public companies or companies in of smoke. It makes one wonder how Hot Food Idomeni, says. “This is just Nobody knows what their exact num- racks to leave them,” he added. der costs now €1,500. “The smugglers On the other hand, employees in believed higher spending would be this process is not based on detailed 4.4 per cent for loans in euros and to 8.8 restructuring to take place in that pe- nights can be spent inside with lungs an emergency response,” he contin- ber is, but Ivan Gerginov, from Serbia's In the meantime, Shapur and some are our best friends. They help," Abaid- education, healthcare, social services, returned to the budget through higher sector analysis and risks undermining per cent for loans in dinars, which was riod,” he concluded. still functioning. ued. Refugees Commissariat, a state body, other migrants hope to reach France ullah said. 10 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, January 13 - Thursday, January 26, 2017 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, January 13 - Thursday, January 26, 2017 11 REGION OUT AND ABOUT

Continued from page 1 Balkans 2017: Economies will grow despite political tensions

hile low wages In recent years, the common goal of stultify the securing EU membership dampened re- economy by gional tensions as each government tried depressing to present itself as a model neighbour. consumption, However, with EU enlargement in the the other big next few years all but off the agenda as dragW on a sustained recovery is contin- the bloc wrestles with Britain's planned ued high levels of unemployment in exit, the EU's ability to influence events parts of the region. This seems unlikely in the Balkans is waning. to shift in 2017. The outcome of recent presiden- Official jobless figures in the Balkans tial elections in Bulgaria and Moldova are dubious guides because of the size showed that standing as "the Western of the untaxed, invisible "grey" econo- candidate" is no longer a guarantee of my. Bearing that in mind, Serbia's offi- victory. cial jobless rate stands at about 20 per cent, Macedonia's at 23, Montenegro's at RUSSIA AND ISLAMISTS 18, Croatia's at 17 and Bosnia's at a whop- ping 40 per cent. Feuds and splits within and between Whatever the "magnifying glass" ef- countries in the region will open up room fect created on unemployment data by for external factors to become more in- the "grey" economy, the job situation in volved. Russia clearly hopes to see the the Western Balkans clearly remains back - one day - of the pro-Western gov- far, far worse than on the eastern side ernment in Montenegro. It will continue of the semi-peninsula. Bulgaria's unem- to firm up its close ties to Serbia. ployment rate is a modest 10 per cent Russia's ability to set political agen- and Romania's is only 7 per cent. das in firmly pro-Western Croatia, Alba- Moreover, it is hard to see the high nia and Croatia is small to non-existent. figures in the Western Balkans coming It could make trouble in Bosnia and down much, except by means of the Kosovo, however, by encouraging local safety valve of emigration. Serbs to make maximalist demands. However, emigration sucks out the Kosovo's Serbs are limited by their young, the ambitious and the skilled small numbers but the Bosnian Serbs - the last people these countries can af- are in a different league, which is why ford to lose – and leaves behind the sick, Moscow's intentions for them could be Stara Planina, in the Balkan mountain range, is the largest mountain in eastern Serbia. Photo: jpstaraplanina.rs the elderly and the unemployed. important. Islamist terrorism on the other hand, POLITICS OF the great fear in Western Europe, is un- CONFRONTATION likely to cause much disturbance in the Western Balkans, despite the presence While the economy presents room in several countries of large Muslim Serbia's mountains: Winter for optimism in 2017, the same cannot communities. be said for the political scene in the re- As Islamic State retreats in Iraq and gion. Baščaršija in Sarajevo. Photo: Flickr/Ivana Vasilj Syria, Western intelligence agencies pre- In three countries, Macedonia, Ko- dict a rise in revenge "lone wolf" attacks sovo and Montenegro, dangerous to resolve anything, raising questions sustained attack in Macedonia and Ser- Kosovo government's room to conduct on iconic sites in the West. While Paris, wonderlands for everyone standoffs between entrenched govern- about whether yet more elections will bia already, but not only there. dialogue with Belgrade. London, Berlin, Istanbul and other me- ments and powerful opposition move- help. The government in Pristina will now tropolises remain in the firing line, the ments looks set to continue this year, In neighbouring Serbia, the govern- REGIONAL be even less willing - or able - to deliver chances are that Belgrade, Zagreb, Pris- Forget time to go skiing is, in fact, at the end such as World Snow Day. For more in- Crni Vrh. It can be used at night due to Between 1,100m and 1,900m high, with destabilizing, inflammable conse- ment remains curiously paranoid and TENSIONS on internationally brokered agree- tina, Sofia and Bucharest are not. of January and the beginning of Feb- formation, go to www.infokop.net. the good lighting and some 700 skiers it is covered in snow for almost five quences. edgy, despite enjoying firm control over ments with Serbia on issues like the ruary. Kopaonik also offers a treat for fans can use it per hour. months of the year. In Macedonia especially, where all the levers of power. Bosnia remains Relations between Balkan countries proposed autonomous Association of Marcus Tanner is an editor of Balkan Switzerland. Over the Christmas holidays, prices of night skiing – the Malo Jezero (Small Apart from the four main ski slopes, Apart from skiing, you can also enjoy trust between the two blocs is now as polarized as ever around its ethnic- are also a cause for concern - and could Serbian Municipalities. Insight and the author of "Albania's can also be unreasonably high. But after Lake) slope, located at the heart of the there are a few smaller ones with a the fine landscape. One of the must-see non-existent, civil disorder is a distinct based parties. well worsen in 2017. Serbia's now poor relations with Mountain Queen, Edith Durham and the Serbia's own the holiday ends in mid-January, you resort. It is open from 7pm to 10pm and capacity to hold 200 skiers per hour. spots is Babin Zub, a protected natural possibility. But politics in Kosovo have A nervous, confrontational, conspir- January's arrest in France on a Ser- Croatia are also unlikely to get bet- Balkans" [Tauris]. can pack your bags for much less mon- costs around €10. If you don't have your own ski equip- reserve, lying at a height of 1,758m. Its also become worryingly violent, con- acy-ridden atmosphere in all these bian arrest warrant of the Kosovo poli- ter. Serbia's relations with Bosnia winter resorts ey. Our picks this winter are Kopaonik - If you prefer snowboarding to skiing, ment, you can rent it in several places rocks end to the southeast of Midžor, frontational and ever more focused on countries can only erode governments' tician Ramush Haradinaj will further could also become inflamed if restive The opinions expressed in the Com- of course - and two lesser-known gems, the "Mountain of the Sun" also offers a at the resort. 2,169m high, which is the highest peak "the street" - never a good thing. Equal- willingness to tolerate civil liberties, inflame tensions between Serbia and Bosnian Serbs make further pushes ment section are those of the authors have ski slopes, Divčibare and Stara Planina. snow park, where many domestic and Skiing prices at Divčibare are lower not only of Stara Planina but in all of ly worryingly, elections in Macedonia press freedom and an independent its former province, dimming hopes in the direction of all-out independ- only and do not necessarily reflect the international competitions are held an- than those at Mt Kopaonik. A one-day Serbia. and Montenegro in 2016 have failed NGO sector. NGOs have come under of reconciliation and undermining the ence. views of BIRN. scenic hiking KOPAONIK nually. ticket costs around ten euros for adults, Babin Zub also has a four-seater Kopaonik also offers great nightlife while tickets for children and the pen- chairlift called Konjarnik with a load- paths, snowy Most people have heard of Ser- during the winter, when many popular sioners are around six and nine euros ing conveyor belt and a capacity of bia's premier ski resort, Mt Kopaonik, singers and bands play the night away respectively. Discounts are available for 1,400 skiers per hour, and a T-bar ski vistas and apres- known as the "Winter Wonderland" or at any of the dozens of clubs, bars and students, groups and members of Ser- lift Sunčana Dolina, with a capacity of "the Silver Mountain". Located some restaurants. bia's Ski Federation. For more informa- 1,200 skiers per hour. The Markova Li- Published by ski entertainment four hours' drive from Belgrade, the Be sure to book a room in one of the tion, go to www.divcibare.rs. vada kindergarten has a magic carpet. mountain is surrounded by a beautiful numerous hotels and apartments as If you prefer walking tours to skiing, Stara Planina offers visitors the very aplenty - and with national park. soon as possible. Prices start at around the resort has lots of interesting hiking first gondola lift in Serbia – Jabučko Apart from skiing, Kopaonik is also €40 per night per person. trails. Make sure to check with the local Ravište. It has eight seats and takes prices to suit all known for its flora and fauna, as well tourist organization before heading out skiers from the resort's main hotel to as for about 200 days of sunshine each DIVČIBARE as restrictions may be in place due to the chairlifts and the slopes. Jabučko A LEADING PROVIDER OF SUBSCRIBE TO budgets. year, which have earned it another the bad weather and snow. Ravište also offers a four-seater chairlift NEWS AND ANALYSIS OUR PREMIUM nickname, the "Mountain of the Sun". This resort in southwest Serbia, close When it comes to accommodation, and a ski lift with connections to Babin CONTENT That is why you could get sunburned to the town of Valjevo, may be less fa- there are a number of hotels, private Zub. IN SOUTHEAST EUROPE even on your first day on the slope. mous than Kopaonik but still has lots rooms, apartments, wooden cottages All in all, there are 13km of ski runs for in-depth analysis, Ivana NIKOLIĆ When it comes to skiing, there are to offer. The Divčibare plateau lies on and villas for rent. For more informa- aimed at everyone. Even if there is not investigative reports, 24 ski lifts transport located at heights Mt Maljen at an altitude of 980m, some tion on availability and prices, check enough real snow, you will still be able features, interviews, f you haven't decided where ranging from 1,100m to 2,017m. They 110km from the capital, Belgrade. The www.divcibaresmestaj.net. to go skiing as there is an artificial snow- commentary and profiles to spend your winter holidays, can transport more than 32,000 skiers place was first mentioned in 1476 by the ing system so you can enjoy many win- on the latest business and why not stay home? Serbia every hour. Ottomans when they conquered Ser- ter sports. political headlines. STARA PLANINA might not be the best option for There are 62 kilometres of both Al- bia. Later, its beautiful flora and fauna Prices here are also far cheaper than a summer vacation but things pine and Nordic tracks in all. A one-day caught the attention of Serbia's Prince, Stara Planina, in the Balkan moun- they are in Mt Kopaonik. A one-day change for the better when it ticket for the ski lifts for adults costs Miloš Obrenović, who bought it from tain range, is the largest mountain in ticket costs around €15 for adults and th OTHER SERVICES: comesI to the long, cold, snowy winter. about €25. There are also various dis- the Ottoman Turks in the 19 century. eastern Serbia. Located near the town €11 and €13 for kids and retirees respec- Many people spend Christmas and counts, among others for students, or- During the winter, Divčibare offers of Knjaževac, some 330km from Bel- tively. For more information on accom- New Year at one of the mountain re- ganized groups with a minimum of 20 four ski tracks, the longest of which, at grade, it forms part of the natural bor- modation options, check www.stara- sorts across Serbia, although the best people as well as during special days 800m, is on the slope of the peak called der with Bulgaria. planina.org. 12 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, January 13 - Thursday, January 26, 2017 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, January 13 - Thursday, January 26, 2017 13 WHAT'S ON ARTS

Film about Opera, Ballet Kosovo Serb return- and Classical ees premieres Kustendorf CLUBBING ‘Agreement' is a movie FRIDAY JANUARY 13th inspired by true stories which Film Festival celebrates Belgrade Philharmonic Orchestra,

delves into relationships Ilija M. Kolarac Endowment, Arts in brief Arts in brief AND LIVE MUSIC between Serb post-war re- Studentski Trg 5, 8pm turnees and ethnic Albanians tenth anniversary th in Kosovo. The film will be SUNDAY JANUARY 15 premiered on January 17th at FRIDAY JANUARY 13th • Saturday Night Fever - Dj`s th Classica Aeterna - piano, Ilija M. WEDNESDAY JANUARY 18 Dom Omladine. Entrance is In its jubilee tenth Kolarac Endowment, Studentski Trg Boško Pešić & George, Mr free. 5, 11am • RED AXES (Hivern Discs, Stefan Braun, Nemanjina 4, • Girls are Gonna Get Wild, year, the Kusten- Opera: Bastien und Bastienne Multi Culti, Kompakt), 11pm (Mozart), The National Theatre, Mr Stefan Braun, Nemanjina 4, Indian Film Festival Francuska 1, 7.30pm Drugstore, Bulevar Despota • Danijel Čerhanov, Dooshan 11pm TRA T T O R I A celebrates Himachal dorf Film Festival Stefana 115, 11pm and Goran Starčević • Oysha, Ludost, Karađorđeva Pradesh MONDAY JANUARY 16th • Jackie Dagger & Regis, 20/44, Brankow, Crnogorska 12, 11pm PIZZER I A will premiere a 44, 11pm Anastasija Minjević – sopran, boat on Sava river, 11pm • Marko Nastić & Peppe, To celebrate the annual new movie by the Zorka Milivojević – piano and • Devedesete - DJ Alex Tic, Mladost, Karađorđeva 44, THURSDAY JANUARY 19th holiday marking the day that Nataša Grujić – violin, Daan Treur Industrija Bar, Karađorđeva 23, 11pm - piano, Belgrade Cultural Centre, Trg Nebojsina 8 Himachal Pradesh became an festival’s founder, Republike 5, 8pm 11pm • Cojke & Dooshan, Ludost, th • RNB Thursday Delight, 011/3863-999 Indian state (January 25 ), the • Hung on until the party Karađorđeva 44, 11pm Emir Kusturica, TUESDAY JANUARY 17th Brankow, Crnogorska 12, 11pm [email protected] Indian Embassy in Belgrade is over, Mr Stefan Braun, • Nexie, Nenad Jovanović, • Sky High – Hip Hop and RNB, is helping to put on an Indian www.restoranamici.rs and screen dozens Ballet: Don Quixote (Minkus), The Nemanjina 4, 11pm Nemanja Vanović Vuk Mr Stefan Braun, Nemanjina 4, Film Festival. The festival will National Theatre, Francuska 1, 7.30pm • Gramophonedzie & Oysha, Smiljanić, DEE, Gadost, 11pm be held at the Student's City of films including th Brankow, Crnogorska 12, 11pm Karađorđeva 44, 11pm Cultural Centre from Janu- WEDNESDAY JANUARY 18 th th • Happy People, Mladost, • DJ Prema - RNB Night, FRIDAY JANUARY 20th ary 26 -29 with two films those by young Opera: The Magic Flute (Mozart), Karađorđeva 44, 11pm Industrija Bar, Karađorđeva 23, every night; one at 6pm and The National Theatre, Francuska 1, 7.30pm • Me-High-Low, Ludost, 11pm • Hang on until the party the second at 9pm. Check directors. the venue's official website Karađorđeva 44, 11pm • DJ Lacosta, Jimmy Woo, is over, Mr Stefan Braun, THURSDAY JANUARY 19th • Mancha & Panic + Guests, Strahinjića Bana 47, 10pm Nemanjina 4, 11pm KOLARAC for complete listings: www. BIRN Team Gadost, Karađorđeva 44, 11pm • Alexis Cabrera, DOT, dksg.rs Opera: Carmen (Bizet), The National • Miss Millie, Ludost, Theatre, Francuska 1, 7.30pm , Francuska 6, 11pm PROGRAMME • Tranzit Weekend Fever Karađorđeva 44, 11pm avrente Diaz, the Filipino Mina Marinković - harp, Ilija M. , Mikser House, Aleksandra Dević Kolarac Endowment, Studentski Trg Tranzit, Braće Krsmanović 8, • Ana Popović • DJ Alex Tic- - Flashback, director who won the Ven- opens 2017 at KC Grad 5, 6pm 11pm Karađorđeva 46, 9pm Industrija Bar, Karađorđeva 23, ice Golden Lion in 2016, • DJ Ike, Jimmy Woo, Strahinjića • Hornsman Coyote, 11pm th Painter Aleksandra Dević will will open the annual inter- FRIDAY JANUARY 20 Bana 47, 10pm Elektropionir, Cetinjska 15, • Go Deeper with Emanuel national film and music be the first artist to display Belgrade Philharmonic Orchestra, • RNB Music by DJ 10pm Satie, Gadost, Karađorđeva 44, LKustendorf festival on January 14th at her work at KC Grad in 2017 Ilija M. Kolarac Endowment, Borchenzzy, Witch Bar, • Belgrade Bleed To Death 11pm the ethno-village of Mećavnik on Mt Studentski Trg 5, 8pm FRIDAY, JANUARY 13th WEDNESDAY, JANUARY 25th with her new exhibition, ‘Hug', Pariska 13, 10pm Festival, Dom Omladine, • DJ Ike, Jimmy Woo, th Zlatibor. which opens on January 16 nd • Connected w. Lea Dobričić, Makedonska 22, 8pm Strahinjića Bana 47, 10pm Until January 19th, the festival will SUNDAY JANUARY 22 Concert Hall, 8pm Music Gallery, 6pm at 8pm. Dević's exhibition MarkyZ & Nic Lawyer, DOT, screen more than 30 movies, including , Ilija M. Kolarac Belgrade Philharmonic Orchestra Cycle: Music Workshop, Đorđe deals with abuse in its many Maja Rajković - piano Francuska 6, 11pm SUNDAY JANUARY 15th st Diaz’s drama “The Woman Who Left”, “On the Milky Road”, directed by founder of the festival, Photo: CEBEF Endowment, Studentski Trg 5, 11am SATURDAY JANUARY 21 For Connoisseurs 2 Davidović, accordion shapes and forms. The exhibi- filmmaker Emir Kusturica, will also be screened. • Trula Romansa, Dom awarded in Venice last year, and a pre- Conductor: Cristian Mandeal Production: Music Centre tion will be open until January MONDAY JANUARY 23rd Mr Stefan mier of a “On the Milky Road”, directed Twenty-two films by young directors The festival will also pay a tribute Omladine, Makedonska 22, • Sunday Beat, • Les Yeux Orange (Good Plus, Programme: A. Bruckner: Admission free th 29 . by founder of the festival, filmmaker from 19 countries will be competing for to well-known Serbian screenwriter 9pm Braun, Nemanjina 4, 11pm Paris) x DJ Brka & Bagheera, Symphony No. 7 Ballet: Coppelia (Delibes), The Emir Kusturica. the festival’s Golden, Silver and Bronze Gordan Mihić featuring five movies he National Theatre, Francuska 1, 7.30pm • PRTI BEE GEE & BVANA, 20/44, boat on Sava river, 11pm FRIDAY, JANUARY 27th ‘The Nutcracker' th th The festival traditionally brings to- Egg awards. wrote, including the 1967 “When I Am Božidarac, Radoslava Grujića 3, MONDAY JANUARY 16 • Alexandar Ivković, SUNDAY, JANUARY 15 TUESDAY JANUARY 24th comes to Sava Centre gether young cinematography artists Kustendorf will also screen some of Dead and Gone”, directed by Živojin 8:30pm Scalameriya, Regen aka Concert Hall, 8pm , Mr Stefan Concert Hall, 11am Belgrade Philharmonic and authors at Mećavnik, a small wood- last year’s award-winning films includ- Pavlović, and “Black Cat, White Cat”, di- The Concert of younf flautist, • Moussaka & Bullet for a • Celebrity Night Miloš Pavlović, Mihajlo, Sava Centre and the Serbian Cycle: Kolarac Podium of Chamber Orchestra en town built as a film set by Kusturica ing French comedy-drama film, “In Bed rected by Kusturica. Guarnerius, Džordža Vašingtona 12, Badman, Klub Petak, Lomina Braun, Nemanjina 4, 11pm Nikola 5. b2b Nemanja 8pm Music For Lovers 3 National Theatre have teamed in 2004 for his movie “Life is a Miracle”. with Victoria”, Finnish drama “Flowers Each evening will end, like it does 14, 9pm Cojke & Dooshan, Ludost, up to present Tchaikovsky's Piano Trio Classica Aeterna Conductor: Alexander Presenting the festival in Belgrade on of Evil”, and Chinese dramas “De Lan” every year, with a concert. This year, th TUESDAY JANUARY 17th Karađorđeva 44, 11pm WEDNESDAY JANUARY 25 Dušan Panajtović, violin Vedernikov famed ballet ‘The Nutcracker' January 9th, Kusturica said people go to and “Soul On A String”. Kusturica himself will be playing with SATURDAY JANUARY 14th • DJ Prema - RNB Night, Dejan Mitrović, cello Soloist: Lise de la Salle, piano at Sava Centre on Janu- Mećavnik “like they go to some hidden This year’s festival will also screen his band, The No Smoking Orchestra, Opera: La Boheme (Puccini), The • Dizel Party, Mr Stefan Braun, st Industrija Bar, Karađorđeva 23, Marija Đukić, piano Programme: Verdi, Chopin, ary 21 . The entire ballet kafana in Belgrade where everyone feature length films of young authors along with musician Adam Sting and National Theatre, Francuska 1, 7.30pm Đorđe Davidović - accordion, Ilija M. • KST Costume Ball, KST, Nemanjina 4, 11pm 11pm Programme: Mozart, Arensky Prokofiev ensemble and orchestra will feels good. It’s always beautiful there. for the first time. Among other works, Serbian Big Band Orchestra. , Jimmy Woo, Kolarac Endowment, Studentski Trg Bulevar kralja Aleksandra 73, • DJ Night • DJ Lacosta, Jimmy Woo, Production: Music Centre Production: Belgrade be made up of the National “Everything is built of wood and the visitors will have the chance to see Bul- Ana Popović, the popular Serbian 5, 6pm 10pm Strahinjića Bana 47, 10pm Strahinjića Bana 47, 10pm Admission free Philharmonics Theatre's premier dancers smell of resin smell is ethereal. It is an garian drama “Zhaleika”, Bosnian dra- blues and jazz singer, will also perform th • Teška Industrija, Mikser and musicians. Tickets cost utopia turned into reality, which is how ma “All the Cities of the North”, Chinese- at Kustendorf as well as Serbian rock THURSDAY JANUARY 26 THURSDAY, JANUARY 19th SUNDAY, JANUARY 29th House, Karađorđeva 46, 9pm between seven and ten euros we attract the world’s best authors,” Canadian drama “Old Stone” and Italian band Van Gog and Argentinian- Colom- Ballet: La Bayadere (Minkus), The • Seljačka Buna & Piknik/ depending on seating. Kusturica said. drama “Indivisible”. bian punk reggae band Che Sudaka. National Theatre, Francuska 1, 7.30pm Horror Piknik, Božidarac, Concert Hall, 8pm Concert Hall, 8pm Radoslava Grujića 3, 8:30pm Belgrade Philharmonic Orchestra Music – A Friendship Bridge Conductor: Daniel Raiskin between Peoples of Belgrade • Marčelo, Elektropionir, Soloist: Akiko Suwanai, violin and Jerusalem Cetinjska 15, 9pm Programme: Mozart, Brahms, Admission free Walton nd SUNDAY JANUARY 22 Production: Belgrade MONDAY, JANUARY 30th Philharmonics • Sunday Beat, Mr Stefan Concert Hall, 8pm Braun, Nemanjina 4, 11pm SUNDAY, JANUARY 22nd Dreaming Awake Programme: Filip Glas and his FREE COPY MONDAY JANUARY 23rd Concert Hall, 11am contemporaries Cycle: Kolarac Podium of Chamber Branka Parlić, Nada Kolundžija, Publisher: BIRN d.o.o. • Celebrity Night, Mr Stefan Music Nataša Penezić Maja Rajković, piano Guests: Ljubičice Band, Katarina Kolarčeva 7/5, 11 000 Belgrade Braun, Nemanjina 4, 11pm Dennis Krasnokutsky, violin, viola Radovanović Jeremić, piano Phone/Fax: +381 11 4030 300 Production: Music Centre Ticket price: 700 rsd Editor in Chief: Gordana Igrić th TUESDAY JANUARY 24 Admission free BIRN editorial team: Ana Petruševa, Marcus Tanner, • Dizel Party, Mr Stefan Braun, [email protected] Nemanjina 4, 11pm Sales & Marketing: Marija Petrović • DJ Night, Jimmy Woo, Phone: +381 11 4030 302 Strahinjića Bana 47, 10pm [email protected] Subscription & Distribution: WEDNESDAY JANUARY 25th Goran Knezevic +381 11 4030 303 • Girls are Gonna Get Wild, Modern Serbian Cuisine, Mediterranean and Italian cuisine [email protected] Mr Stefan Braun, Nemanjina 4, SERBIAN CUISINE THROUGH CENTURIES 11pm Printing: POLITIKA štamparija d.o.o. ISSN 1820-8339 = Belgrade Insight THURSDAY JANUARY 26th COBISS.SR-ID: 149132556 Circulation: 4,000 • RNB Thursday Delight, Reservations: +381 11 2607436, www.vagon-victoria.rs Brankow, Crnogorska 12, 11pm Location: Bulevar Zorana Djindjica 44a, New Belgrade • Sky High – Hip Hop and RNB, Mr Working Hours: Mon-Sun 8 a.m. - 1 a.m. Stefan Braun, Nemanjina 4, 11pm 14 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, January 13 - Thursday, January 26, 2017 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, January 13 - Thursday, January 26, 2017 15 GOING OUT ON THE SPOT The ‘pub’ that isn’t a pub Ice skating: The perfect

Gvožđara 1870, the The building in which Gvožđara winter warm-up 1870 is located is certainly one of the latest addition to oldest ones in this part of the city and Wintry weather certainly looks worse for wear. The fa- the hip Savamala cade is falling off and if you knew noth- puts limits on ing about this area of town, you would outdoor activities, nightlife scene, probably just assume that the building was abandoned. so ice skating at one has a lot to offer However, inside Gvožđara 1870 is a completely different story. The bar is of Belgrade’s rinks is – unless you’re decked out in expensive looking chan- deliers and the decor is way more up- a great opportunity looking for a beer- scale than you would expect before en- tering. This is one of the first indicators for healthy drinker’s paradise. that tells you that Gvožđara 1870 isn’t really a pub. afternoon fun. The other one is the fact that your David GALIĆ choice of beers is almost non-existent. Natalia ŽABA Which is fine, since there’s no shortage or some reason, Gvožđara of places these days where you can get here are several ice 1870 considers itself a your beer nerd on (Berliner right down rinks in Belgrade – a pub, but in reality, that the street, for example). newly-opened one in couldn’t be further from In reality, Gvožđara 1870 is a cool new Tašmajdan, one in the the truth. upscale bar that turns into a club on the Old DIF sports centre and Perhaps the rundown weekends. There’s plenty of room to another near Delta City Nikola Pašić Square. oldF building in which the club is located sit, with a nice mix of low and high ta- Tmall in New Belgrade, but the rink on Trg was once a pub and the owners wanted bles. You can grab a seat at the bar too Nikole Pašića in the heart of Belgrade to remain true to its tradition. Who if you’re there on a weekday, but dur- seems to offer more than the rest. knows? What’s certain, however, is that ing the weekends, there’s literally no It’s open every day from 10am to 10pm, skating is free of charge and skate it’s an excellent new addition to the Sa- chance. Gvožđara 1870 is a cool new upscale bar that turns into a club on the Weekends. Photo: Facebook/Pivnica Gvožđara 1870 rental costs only 100 rsd [less than one vamala nightlife offer. Just like every new bar or club that euro] for a whole day. Gvožđara 1870 is one of those ‘nev- pops onto the scene of the popular warmer. On the weekends, it can get un- mostly going to hear foreign popular more staff to serve people at the weekend, Skaters have the opportunity to learn er judge a book by its cover’-type of Savamala neighbourhood, Gvožđara bearably crowded. music from a variety of eras. there are not many other areas in which from scratch or develop their skills free places. It’s located in the dirtiest part 1870 gets really busy on Fridays and Another downside is that the waiting There really isn’t much, however, Gvožđara 1870 could stand to improve. of charge with the help of professional of the Savamala neighbourhood, on Saturdays. Everyone wants to check staff might not have enough experi- that distinguishes Gvožđara 1870 from It looks great, it’s in a great location, skaters from the Helena Pajović sports Karađorđeva Street, right next to the out the new club on the scene, especial- ence in dealing with such conditions, many of the other spots in Savamala. the music is excellent, the prices aren’t club. Brankov Bridge. ly in Savamala, which is why just about because they were pretty slow getting Patrons are usually pretty diverse and exceptionally high and it’s the new BIRN met two instructors who were If you’ve ever been down here, you’ll any club or bar in the area will attract drinks for people and sometimes even over 25. Drink prices are par for the place to be right now in Savamala. Just busy giving lessons to six-year-old Nika know that it’s pretty dingy with some- a lot of interest, at least for the first few had to be reminded of orders. course for this type of bar in this area. don’t call it a pub. Milojević, who lives nearby and drops in thing that can hardly be deemed a foot- months. Overall though, it’s an excellent new The cocktails are excellent as well. to the rink every day with her grand- path on the side and a constant traffic If you hate crowds, you might want to addition to Savamala. There’s no live Outside of maybe investing a bit in the Gvožđara 1870 mother. stream of giant trucks carrying their avoid Gvožđara 1870 until it cools down music, just DJs. However, it’s not a place bar’s exterior to make it congruent with Address: Karađorđeva 43 “I love skating, I like it, I fell a couple of wares into an out of the city. and come back when the weather gets that plays electronic music. You’re the experience inside and maybe hiring Contact: +381 65 88 81 870 times, but it’s nothing bad,” Nika said. Nika Milojević. Her two trainers were Tamara Tomašević, a 22-year-old professional skater from Belgrade and her 19-year- old colleague Jovana Mitrić. 2CELLOS stage big New Year’s Gala “People are quite interested in this dis- cipline, and I must admit that children March concert at Sava Centre learn faster as they have no fear,” Mitrić said. his cello-playing duo from Croatia have risen to international star- ike every year, the RTS Symphony Orchestra and Choir will be holding “Nevertheless, quite a lot of middle- dom over the last five years and have become especially popu- its traditional New Year’s Concert at Sava Centre on January 14th. The aged people were interested in skating. lar in Serbia. Luka Šulić and Stjepan Hauer built their renown event is always much more than a normal concert and nothing will Yesterday I was teaching a 40-year-old woman to skate from scratch, and the on YouTube with a video of them playing the hit Michael change this year. other day there was even a 50-year-old Jackson song ‘Smooth Criminal’ on their cellos. Expect a bunch of guests, including some of the best vocal beginner,” Tomašević added. TSince then, they have released three studio albums and played hun- soloistsL from the region and the world, plus the popular Serbian chil- For those who prefer indoor rinks, dreds of sold-out concerts around the world. They will be back in Serbia in dren’s’ choir Kolibri. The event will also include the famed folklore dance Belgrade offers two locations: 2017, playing a concert at the Kombank Arena on March 25th that is likely to ensemble Kolo, who will bring their thrilling visuals and choreography to Hala Pionir, 39 Čarli Čaplin Street and sell out. Advance tickets cost in between €11 and €30 depending on seating. the event. Tickets cost between seven and €11 depending on seating. Sport Centre Pingvin, 78 Jurija Gagarina Street, New Belgrade Tamara Tomašević and Jovana Mitrić. Photos: BIRN/Natalia Žaba

AIRLINE TICKETS Swans bring the noise back to Serbia Serbian metalheads ‘Bleed to Death’ FOR THE WHOLE WORLD One of the most influential (and loud- While the ‘Bleed to Death’ metal festival Ana Popović returns to Belgrade est) avant-garde rock bands of the last Sarajevo pop-rockers has been known to attract up-and- four decades, Swans, will be playing at Mikser House coming bands from around the world, Blues goddess Ana Popović has been once again in Belgrade after a three- its latest one-day instalment is all about living and working in Los Angeles over decade gap. Bandleader Michael Gira, Cabaret tribute to Eartha Kitt After a 30-year hiatus, Sarajevo pop- Serbian groups. And while most of the the last several years but is coming back who played a solo show in Belgrade in rock band Teška Industrija reunited in line-up is made up of younger metal for a concert in her native Belgrade. She 2014, brings the Swans experience to On January 15th, KC Grad is celebrating 2007 and have been doing sporadic and hardcore bands from all over the hasn’t played in the city since January Dom Omladine on March 25th. If you the life and career of American singer shows across the region ever since. country, the headliners are Magma - a 2014, and that concert was sold out are into experimental rock music, this and actress Eartha Kitt with a special They will be playing at Mikser House band from Belgrade that has cult status several weeks before the event, so you is a highly recommended show. Tickets cabaret night that will include two local in Belgrade on January 21st, playing and hasn’t played live in many years. It might have trouble finding tickets for the cost €18 right now but will become cabaret dancers, pianist Lady K and classics from the 1970s and well as new will take place on January 14th at Dom gig on January14th. It’s at Mikser House more expensive as the concert date drag queens Dekadenca and Dajana material. Tickets will cost eight euros at Omladine and tickets will cost four www.flyflytravel.com and tickets cost ten euros. gets nearer. HoA. Entrance is free. the door. euros at the door. 16 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, January 13 - Thursday, January 26, 2017 ADVERT Map of City Centre

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