Red Rocks Routes Overview

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v1.1 Red Rocks Routes Overview

Can be busy. Prepare for alternatives. Well protected or easy for the grade. Spicy for the grade.

Armatron 5.9 (Brownstone Wall, Juniper Canyon) Amazing one of a kind route with full pitches of sustained varnish climbing. This route is destined for classic status. Great all day outing if approached by climbing Myster Z instead of hiking in. 4 pitches 1½-2 hours 2-3 hours Sunrise until mid-afternoon

Beulahs Book 5.9 (Solar Slab Wall, Oak Creek Canyon) Excellent short classic with superb face climbing, awesome laybacking, and a short chimney section that can be surpassed by a great face variation. Great way to reach the popular Solar Slab. 4 pitches ¾-1 hour 1½-2 hours Sunrise until mid-afternoon

Birdland 5.7+ (Brass Wall, Pine Creek Canyon) Great sunny line with more than 500 feet of consistent climbing and an amazing finger crack for the icing on the cake. Combine with the Big Horn crack and pitches of Rawlpindi for an amazing day of climbing. 5 pitches 30-45 minutes 2½-4 hours Sunrise until end afternoon

Black Dagger 5.7+ (Brownstone Wall, Juniper Canyon) Spicy mix of climbing in an amazing setting with wonderful views of the Rainbow Wall. Combine with other routes on the wall to extend the day and get payback for the sweat you lost on the approach. 7 pitches 1½-2 hours 3-5 hours Sunrise until mid-afternoon (corner shade)

Black Magic 5.8 (Lotta Balls Wall, First Creek Canyon) This short climb is not as unique as its famous neighbor Lotta Balls, but the climbing is at least as entertaining. These two make a great combination for a full day. 4 pitches ¾-1 hour 2-2½ hours Some morning sun (more in summer)

Black Orpheus 5.9+ (Black Arch Wall, Oak Creek Canyon) This alpine-like Red Rocks classic is long, has many great pitches, some easier terrain with several options, and a long but enjoyable and scenic descent. An amazing outing! 10 pitches 1¼-1½ hour 5-7 hours All day, except low/high on route

Brujas Brew 5.9 (Lotta Balls Wall, First Creek Canyon) Great short climb with a spicy but awesome first pitch that gets your attention, and several options to finish. Combine with its popular neighbor Lotta Balls for a full day. 4 pitches ¾-1 hour 2-3 hours Some morning sun (more in summer)

Cat In The Hat 5.6 (SW-face Mescalito, Pine Creek Canyon) The moderate and varied climbing makes it the most popular classic at its grade in Red Rocks. This can cause some congestion, but the popularity also keeps climbers away so you might get lucky. 5 pitches 40-50 minutes 2-4 hours Morning until afternoon

For more information on classic rock climbs in Red Rocks and other areas visit www.GearLoopTopo.com For more information on classic rock climbs in Red Rocks and other areas visit www.GearLoopTopo.com

Cookie Monster 5.7 (SE-face Mescalito, Pine Creek Canyon) A short lesser known but great route in a fun varnished corner filled with jugs and huecos. Combine Cookie Monster with the top, and best, pitches of Cat in the Hat for an awesome day of climbing. 3 pitches 40-50 minutes 1½ -2 hours Sunrise until beginning afternoon

Crimson Chrysalis 5.8 (Cloud Tower, Juniper Canyon) This route is long and sustained with wide cracks and steep face climbing. The variety, the exposure and the rock quality make this one an ultra popular outing. 9 pitches 1-1¼ hour 5-7 hours Limited sun in early morning

Dark Shadows 5.8 (Mescalito, Pine Creek Canyon) A short but amazing climb up a varnished corner filled with huecos, located in perhaps the most scenic oasis in Red Rocks. This is a good route to combine with one of the other classics in Pine Creek Canyon. 4 pitches 40-50 minutes 2-3 hours Early morning on the first two pitches

Dream of Wild Turkeys 5.10a (Black Velvet Wall, Black Velvet Canyon) Maybe the best long route of its grade in Red Rocks with predominantly face and crack climbing, and some slabby cruxes thrown in. Very popular, so it is wise to prepare for one of the many great alternatives. 12 pitches 40-50 minutes 6-9 hours Morning sun (in spring/summer)

Eagle Dance 5.10c, A0 (Eagle Wall, Oak Creek Canyon) An amazingly exposed and long route in a spectacular location with fun and well protected cruxes and a short bolt ladder. A definite Urioste classic. 10 pitches 2-3 hours 5-7 hours Most of the day

Epinephrine 5.9 (Black Velvet Wall, Black Velvet Canyon) This is the 5.9 Red Rocks classic, and it is one of the best route you will ever do. The slick chimneys are memorable and are followed by lots of superb face and crack climbing. A long and amazing day for most climbers. 16 pitches ¾-1 hour 7-10 hours Sunrise to beginning afternoon

Frigid Air Buttress 5.9+ (Frigid Air Buttress, Icebox Canyon) Excellent varied climbing adventure with a comfortable ledge at every belay and an amazing finger crack crux section saved for last. Deserves to be climbed more. 9 pitches 20-30 minutes 5-7 hours Mid-morning sun (in spring/summer)

Frogland 5.8 (Whiskey Peak, Black Velvet Canyon) This amazing moderate route offers excellent and varied climbing and a memorable chockstone squeeze move. Deservingly popular, so get up early or get in line. 7 pitches 30-45 minutes 3½-5 hours Morning sun (top NE corner shade)

Geronimo 5.6 (Jackrabbit Buttress, Juniper Canyon) A fun little climb on walls loaded with big jugs, and an excellent alternative if its popular neighbor Olive Oil has a long line. The start of the route can be a bit difficult to find, so be warned. 4 pitches ¾-1 hour 2-3½ hours Sunrise until mid-afternoon

Ginger Cracks 5.9 (Ginger Buttress, Juniper Canyon) A superb climb up a prominent crack system on Ginger Buttress. A perfect alternative when its popular neighbor Crimson Chrysalis has long lines. 7 pitches 1-1¼ hours 4-6 hours Sunrise until mid-morning

Gobbler 5.10a (Black Velvet Wall, Black Velvet Canyon) This combo of face climbing and a squeeze chimney is a fantastic short climb. Climb it as an alternative start to Dream of Wild Turkeys, or before or after one of the other classics on the wall. 3 pitches 40-50 minutes 1-1½ hours Morning sun (in spring/summer)

For more information on classic rock climbs in Red Rocks and other areas visit www.GearLoopTopo.com

Going Nuts 5.6 (Solar Slab Area, Oak Creek Canyon) Beautiful crack climbing on top of Solar Slab Ledge. This route is a good extension to Johnny Vegas, or an alternative start to the Solar Slab route. 2 pitches ¾-1 hour to wall 50-60 minutes Sunrise until end afternoon

Group Therapy 5.7 (Angel Food Wall) An amazing line of easy offwidth, chimney, and face climbing. Do not forget your big gear, or you will face some runouts on easier terrain. Nice alternative if its busy neighbor Tunnel Vision has a long line. 7 pitches 30-40 minutes 3-5 hours Sunrise until beginning afternoon

Johnny Vegas 5.7 (Solar Slab Wall, Oak Creek Canyon) Get a nice feeling of exposure on this short classic, which is surprisingly steep for the grade. From the top of the route, you can con- tinue on Solar Slab (5.6) for an amazing day with more than 10 pitches of moderate climbing. 4 pitches ¾-1 hour 1½-2 hours Sunrise to late afternoon

Levitation 29 5.11c (Eagle Wall, Oak Creek Canyon) A famous and definite Red Rocks classic, following a long and obvious crack system that is steep and intimidating. You’ll get killer exposure, excellent rock and fantastic views especially if you go to the top. 10 pitches 2-3 hours 5-7 hours Most of the day

Lotta Balls 5.8 (Lotta Balls Wall, First Creek Canyon) A remarkable route with lots of quality climbing. The second pitch is memorable with a delicate and exciting face climbing section on marble size knobs. 3 pitches ¾-1 hour 2-2½ hours Some morning sun (more in summer)

Myster Z 5.7 (Jackrabbit Buttress, Juniper Canyon) Nice climbing and stemming along easy wide cracks. Not the best route at its grade in Red Rocks, but a pleasant way to reach climbs like Armatron or Black Dagger on the Brownstone wall. 7 pitches ¾-1 hour 3-4 hours Sunrise until mid-afternoon

Nightcrawler 5.10c (Brownstone Wall, Juniper Canyon) This stunning route ascends an amazingly steep and clean dihedral that will surely get your hart pumping. Many consider that this route contains some of the best climbing of its grade in all of Red Rocks. 6 pitches 1½-2 hours 2½-3½ hours Sunrise until afternoon (corner more shade)

Olive Oil 5.7 (Rose Tower, Juniper Canyon) An amazing mix of face, chimney, and crack climbing make this a deservingly popular classic. Although all the difficult moves can be well protected, the easier face climbing sections are a bit runout. 6 pitches ¾-1 hour 2½-4 hours Sunrise until mid-afternoon

Power Failure 5.10b (Ginger Buttress, Juniper Canyon) This route has good rock quality and a nice variety to it, mixing bolts and gear on face, cracks and corners. It makes a good combination with its neighbor Unimpeachable Groping. 3 pitches 1-1½ hour 2-3 hours Sunrise until beginning afternoon

Prince of Darkness 5.10c (Black Velvet Wall, Black Velvet Canyon) This mostly bolted steep face climb is a nice challenge for the 5.10 leader. This climb is continuous and the hanging belays will test your foot pain and harness comfort level. 6 pitches 40-50 minutes 3½-5 hours Morning sun (in spring/summer)

Purblind Pillar 5.8 (Angel Food Wall) New line on Angel Food Wall full of varied climbing, at least on par with Tunnel Vision and Group Therapy. On a warm day, carry your lunch and enjoy it in the oasis on top. The view is fantastic. 6 pitches 30-40 minutes 3-5 hours Sunrise until mid-afternoon

For more information on classic rock climbs in Red Rocks and other areas visit www.GearLoopTopo.com

Rawlpindi 5.7 (Brass Wall, Pine Creek Canyon) This route gets less attention than Birdland, but the climbing is better than it looks. Combine it with the Bighorn Crack and several pitches of Birdland for a great day of climbing. 5 pitches 30-45 minutes 3-4 hours Most of the day, corner gets more shade

Refried Brains 5.9 (Black Velvet Wall, Black Velvet Canyon) The easiest classic on the popular Black Velvet Wall has great climbing at a sustained 5.8-5.9 level and a superb crack pitch. There are many other great climbs on the Black Velvet Wall the fill your day. 4 pitches 40-50 minutes 2-3 hours Some morning sun (in spring/summer)

Sick For Toys 5.10d (Corduroy Ridge, Black Velvet Canyon) This is a superb slab route on a huge slab that is split by an improbable looking seam that will surely test your slab and crack climbing skills. Although Red Rocks is not known for its slab routes, this one won’t disappoint you. 4 pitches ¾-1¼ hours 2-3 hours Morning sun (in spring/summer)

Solar Slab 5.6 (Solar Slab Wall, Oak Creek Canyon) The longest and most popular route of its grade. This classic route provides great climbing and awesome position. Given its length, the approach and the long but scenic descent, it should not be taken lightly. 8 pitches ¾-1 hour to gully 3-5 hours Sunrise until end afternoon

Sour Mash 5.10a (Black Velvet Wall, Black Velvet Canyon) This route is excellent, varied, and is the shorter classic on the right side of the Black Velvet wall. It has very well bolted crux moves, making it a good route to break into the grade. 7 pitches 40-50 minutes 4-6 hours Morning sun (in spring/summer)

Tunnel Vision 5.7 (Angel Food Wall) This unique climbing and caving mix route is a very popular Red Rocks classic. Do not forget your headlamp for the famous tunnel pitch unless it is very sunny. Plan for an alternative if the route is too busy. 6 pitches 30-40 minutes 3-5 hours Rare sun exposure (many NE corners)

Unimpeachable Groping 5.10b (Ginger Buttress, Juniper Canyon) A beautiful, straightforward and generously bolted multipitch sport route up steep white and varnished rock. It has great exposure, sustained face climbing and even a cool roof problem. 6 pitches 1-1½ hour 2-4 hours Sunrise until beginning afternoon

Y2K 5.10a (Mescalito, Pine Creek Canyon) Great consistent 5.8 climbing with one well protected, 5.10a roof move. This is a perfect route for lead climbers to break into the low 5.10 grade. 4 pitches 40-50 minutes 2-3 hours Morning on the bottom pitches