SEPTEMBER 2020 WWW.WHEREITALIA.COM/FLORENCE
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V A SI E S T E S E
ENTERTAINMENT CASTELLO SESTO 48 the guide apertura SIGHTSEEING FIORENTINO
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I N A I L U I G O D L A N I G E R A I V V IA D E L L E PA N C H E little gem for vintage
VIA ANDREA COSTA glasses enthusiasts, VIA ANDREA COSTA
VIA G. DUPRÈ Teatro Romano but also for lovers VIA FAENTINA V AI D E P' E R F E T T RI CI A S O L I VIA CARLO DEL GRECO Museo Bandini VIA MARINI
VIA PORTIGIANI Cattedrale di San Romolo of models with SCONI BO STRAD A PROV INCIALE 54 DEI PIAZZA PIAZZA G.GARIBALDI MINO DA FIESOLE contemporary designs. VIA MASSICINI V L. U C C H E S E A
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D PIAZZA E Aeroporto Marchesi Antinori T Amerigo V I A V E T ENRICO O Vespucci PIGNONE
BADIA L MATTEI VIA MANTELLINI ' A N G E V AI P R A T E S E L I C wines, accompanied by PIZZERIA O V I A U G O C O R S I SAN DOMENICO V. DEL PONTE DI QUARACCHI Convento di San Domenico V. CUPOLA WHAT TO DO VIA MANTELLINI ENJOY 12 seasonal Tuscan dishes VIABENE VIALE G. LUDER OUT OF TOWN 38 VIALE G.B. MORGAGNI
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VIA POMPEO NERI VIA DEL Monumento al principe indiano Parrocchia P. BERNARDO RIESTE LARGO dell'Ascensione TANUCCI CA 52 SIGHTSEEING Villa Fabbricotti G. BARTOLINI V I A T LO ContentsVIA SAN DONATO V I A E N R I C O M AY E R NI WWW.WHEREITALIA.COM/FLORENCE V I A G . B A R B E R A SEPTEMBER 2020 TERZOLLE A VIALE DELL'AERONAUTICA ACCIO INI V I A . G . F A B VIA FAENTINA ACCIO T PIAZZA MUGNONE A VIA FRANCESCO BARACCA AR OCC B R O N OPP GIAMPIETRO E V I A B E Z Z E C ROT M DLEI A I V I I B VIA GIOVANNI DE' MARIGNOLLI Parrocchia Immacolata T OFF V. S . B U O N S I G N O R I VIEUSSEUX& MUSEUMSe San Martino a Montughi V I A L NN V IES V. F. C I A AUTUMN TIPS ON VIA GAETANO M VA VIA SAN DONATO V D I V I I A T V I A R A F F A E L L O L A M B R U S C H I N I VIA MADONNA DELLEIO QUERCE I O S T LUXURY SHOPPING, Parco Liceo A T R N Leonardo da Vinci A C . R E O C O DINING AND SIGHTSEEING V. O. DA PORDENONE VI N IA G VIA CIRCONDARIA T O V A C I S R O C E L A I V V I A M A F F E I M PA G N I Chiesa della B.V. M G LARGO GET A TOUR OF THE BEST ILANE Madre della
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E NA An teatro delle Cascine VIA DELLA VILLA DEMID NAINI PIAZZA S I V IA L E F R A N C E S C O R E D I VIALE GIOVANNI LAMI E O BO LUDOVICO ANTONIO V VIALE GIORGIO WASHINGTON Chiesa I A V I T T O R I O E M A N U E L E I I ENT A A N D O M E N I MURATORI A S Preziosissimo Riccardi is an iconic LUNGO VIA L'AFFRICO Enjoy the city, starting from Sangue I A REVOLUTIONMUGNONE U G I A V I ALCANTI Giardino V VIA GIUSEPPE TARTINI OLOGN V I A F Stazione Firenze Statuto V PIAZZA V. dell'Orticoltura V VIA FRANCESC G. B Villa il VIALE FRANCESCO REDI INI PIAZZUOL TOMMASO I PIAZZA A Ventaglio A VIADOTTO DEL PONTE ALL'INDIANO C I AL ALVA EDISON V. VIALE DEI CADORNA . ABBA V DELLE CURE I. XI EL O I L NIEVO UIDO CA FE Chiesa della building of Florentine Madonna della Tosse G VIA FAENTINA V I A L E A L E S S A N D R O V O LTA V I A L AT VIA D
RFA NA CV I its main landmark attractions. Organic drinking is now an C B VIA FRA' JACOPO PASSAVANTI PIAZZA VIA VNES AIRN EI V VIA LUIGI BOCCHERINI V IA C L A U D IO M O N T E V E R D I N I V I D I ONACCI GIACOMO OR AI A L I PIAZZA I A A VIA DELLE CINQUE GIORNATE N PUCCINI VIA GIAMBATTISTA LULLI VIALE MAFALDA DI SAVOIA N DELLA V IA L E D E I M IL L E A L V IA D E L L ’IS O L O T T O AV I D ELO V E VITTORIA O FIB VIA DELVIA PONTE ALL'ASSE O I A V I X A. GARBASSO G IROLI JOURNEY V IA M A R A G L IA N O RenaissanceE SC V VIA DELLE FORBICI EUCCI U . ARD DA ER LO VX I TO VIA M L G establishedVIA ANTON FRANCESCO DONI tendency, a trend that . PIAZZA VIA FRANCESCO VERACINI S TAT VIA DELLA CERNAIA A U SCA I TO THE CENTRE VIA FILIPPO PACINI COR I GALILEO VIA ANTONIO COCC S SE V. A V V IA G IU S E P P E G A L L IA N O M A T MUGNONE N FERRARIS VIA DEI CA O VIA DELLE ISOLE Chiesa Cattolica ELLI A LEON G GO I I R V Parrocchiale U TO Istituto Comprensivo Statale I OF THE ART V I A D E G ONNA TOS I V H Sacro Cuore V. G. B. AMICI I I M S PI VIALE ALESSANDROM VOLTA VIA ENRICO PETRELLA al Romito V AI HI A VIA DELLE CASCINE V. G. TARGIONI TOZZETTI T OI VIA FRANCESCO PUCCINOTTI V LARGO V. MAD RA All you can do architecture and a PONTE ROSSO C A I V. A. NICOLODI D V AI D E L P O N T E A L L E M O S S E L U PIETRO Golf Club Parco Di Firenze is constantly growing in Italy. VIA XX SETTEMBRE OTTI WHAT TO DO V I A G I U S E P P E S A V E R I O M E R C A D A N T E 12 E V I A C O S S E R I A NGHI CAPEI V AI P EI T R O T O S E L L I ELLI C . in the city Arco di Trionfo dei Lorena VIA A. BERTANI L A G OI R D A N O CIN AL N D VIA G. BAND
VIALE DELL'AERONAUTICA PIAZZALE DELLA V. ELBANO GASPERI VIA FRATELLI BRONZETTI VIALE GIOVANNI MILTON PA V. G. I PIAZZA VIALE DON MINZONI C Parco delle Cascine VIA DI SAN IACOPINO COSTITUZIONE V AI L E O N A R D O D A V NI C I SANTISSIMI PIAZZA V. G. MARCONI A ONTINI PIAZZA N OI VIA FRA' BARTOLOMMEO B O T T I C V. A. N IGI SP treasure chestLARGO of art Porta San Gallo V IA G . F AT T O R I PIAZZA GERVASIO E PROTASIO LU VIA GUIDO SPADOLINI DELLA LIBERTA’ T This month’s round-up of art RE DI SAN EOL NA E V I LEOPOLDO O A R N O A MARTIRI N P IACOPINO V. S . PIAZZA E S I A DELLE NOBILI VIA P. CARNESECCHI Parrocchia dei V I A D E L L ' A R G I N G R O S S O SIGHTSEEING | MUSEUMS | SHOPPING | DINING | ENTERTAINMENT | MAPS VIA V AI M GIOVANNI RDO G SS. Gervasio e Protasio VIALE CALATAFIMI VIA FRANCESCO NULLO VIA CARRARA VIA G. PAISIELLO FOIBE VIA LORENZO MAGNIFICO PIAZZA A V IA C A S S IA I LE ANTONELLI V VIA GUGLIELMO MARCONI I VINCENZO V. C. DI BELGIOIOSO VIA D. MA Giardino FILIPP V AI A S FARDELLA V AI L E D E MI LI L E ELL della Fortezza VI TELFIDA masterpieces. X A D A C C I O OLI DI TORREARSA P I exhibitions, music and local V. G. MARCONI IR URNO GIFT GUIDE O U NT 31 V I A D E L T S C E R ELLIN A ELLATE VIA A.SQUARCIALUPI O VIA SAN GERVASIO T D’AO VIA GOFFREDO MAMELI VIA AURELIO SAFFI VIA C A P P PRAT IA NINO BIXIO VIA DELLE CENTO STELLE COVER ROZZI V VIA CAS PIAZZA SSANDRIA LUPI BO STA E N ChiesaGALLO di Sant'Agata V. VOLV Chiesa San Jacopino L A AV I L EG A I C O M O M A T T E O T T I GIORGIO VIA DEI CA I A 'A L S R O E VIALE SPARTACO DLAVAGNINI A PIAZZA VASARI VIA BENEDETTO MARCELLO N A U N I VI M V I A D E L L ' A R G I N G R O S S O F I SAVONAROLA The “Aria” exhibition by traditional events. Take advantage of your stay in AC A O VIA G. PAISIELLO I IL N VIA O VIA FRA' DOMENICO BUONVICINI RI VIADELLE GHIACCIAIE Fortezza da Basso V POG Giardino F CATERIN V AI A N D R E A D E L C A S TA G N O O P VIA PIETRO MARONC . A DI E CL A M P O D A ' R R G I O TO V IA D E L L E P O R T E N U O V E V VIA G. DOLFI GI A MARMORA N Campo Di R I S A A Marte I E Tomás Saraceno at V I A C A V O V IA G U S T A V O Chiesa V VIAPIO FEDI PIAZZA G PDO EAMLN LEVTI O S E 56 ESSENTIALS VIA DE D U Nostra Signora SO L Santi Fiorentini ALESSANDRO V AI D E DI E I D del Sacro Cuore Stadio O Ippodromo del Visarno BONSANTI L Comunale VIA FONTEBUONI Florence to enjoy a pick of theO LE VIA ROSOLI E P P E S I R Franchi MONTIGNANO Palazzo Strozzi. RUO M O F M Chiesa dei Sette Santi V. C. V IA V E N E Z IA D E N A A IUS O VIA BARTOLOMMEI TE Giardino VIA MASSA RIDOLFI Palazzo Pandolfini VIA ALFON V. G. BENIVIENI VIALE U. OJETTI VIA GIOVANNI MICHELUCCI N VIALE FILIPPO STROZZI N V. L. BAUSI PIAZZALEInformation and tips L L A A VIA DEI SETTE SANTI VIA DELLA FORTEZZA EGLI ARTISTI T V I A G Photo © Ela Bialkowska, C BAMBINE E BAMBINI PIAZZA R Cimitero I O DI BESLAN V AI M best high-quality items. INDIPENDENZA Chiesa di VIA PIE O della Misericordia NATUREPasserella dell'Isolotto AND ART B B AI VIA D 16 S. Giovanni VIA LUNGO L'AFFRICO V IA L E A B R A M O L IN C O L N R dei Cavalieri ANTONIO MICHELI OKNOVIA MASSA Studio A ATELLO Giardino S A C C OI VL. T. MAMIANI to experienceR the V AI M V I A C A V O U R di San Clemente CAMPO VIA SAN GALLO VIALE BELFIORE V IA X X V IA P R IL E I VIA CITTADELLA DEL P VIA LUIGI ALAMANNI N V AI V AI L E P A S Q U A L E P A O L I I V O DI MARTE VIALE ELEONORA DUSE Giardino IA A VIA AMEDEO MODIGLIANI V LG. PORTA A Suggestions for trips outside di Valfonda N N E L L I P LEOPOLDA ONTANELLI Teatro dell’Opera A D N O F L A V EI R C A P IV V I A G U E L F A M Giardino V. dei Semplici VIA IACOPO DA DIACCETO A Z N E A F A VIA GIAMBOLOGNA best that Florence A Convento T IA G.LA PIRA VIA PIO FEDI di San Marco V ANTI VIAL E GIOVANN I VERGA Firenze Fiera San Giuliano RA F Parco delle Cascine VIA DEL FOSSO VIA FRATELLI ROSSELLI VIA GINO CAPP P O O V IA A N T O N IO C A N O V A PIAZZALE DI VL. MAGNOLIE Stazione Leopolda REPA N I PORTA AL LO D O VIA SAN GIOVAN GUALBERTO L'ARCOLAIO the city that are able to satisfy L V IA D E I L IG U S T R I L U N G A R N O D E I P IO P P I FASHION OUTLETS A LARGO L 40 G E V IA T O R C IC O D A PRATO Porta al Prato V. B. CENNINI PIAZZA Giardino Della Gherardesca ACHILLE D San Barnaba V AI D E DI E L L A R O B B AI PIAZZA IA SANTA SAN MARCO has to offer. SAN Stazione Firenze Campo di Marte VIA DELLE ORTENSIE V VIA GIUSEPPE LA FARINA GENNARELLI VIA DOMENICO MARIA MANNI PIAZZA IA VIA SAN BARTOLOMEO V V AI M Chiesa Cattolica Parrocchiale ADUA B.V.M. Madre Delle Grazie V IA L E D E I B A M B IN I V AL GIGNORO EM U I F A I V IA G U E L F A V IA D E L L E M IM O S E Giardino di Cenacolo di Foligno PIAZZALE VIA IACOPO NARDI Palazzo Corsini sul Prato Chiesa A any need: cities of art, dreamyA R N O Several of the best shopping S A C C OI San Jacopo di Ripoli La SS. Annunziata DONATELLO VIALE MANFRE VI di Firenze VL. E. CIALDINI A DEI FALC I Cimitero VIA FRATELLI ROSSELLI O T A R P A I V Chiesa NOR degli Inglesi V IA L E A B R A M O L IN C O L N Casa di Riposo PIAZZA episcopale americana Galleria dell’Accademia BORGO PINTI UCCI della Beata ONI Mercato PIAZZA DEL DELLA V I A G I U S E P P E G I U S T I VIA RAFFAELLO SERNESI PIAZZA di St. James VIA LUIGI ALAMANNI MERCATO DE’GI V IA V AI L E A N T O N OI G R A M S C I V IA D E L L AElisabetta S C A L A Vendramini VIA NAZIONALEANN Centrale Museo Archeologico V CENTRALE SANTISSIMA NTI V.Z VIA R AI L E M STAY IN TOUCH V.G.D.MONTORSOLI VITTORIO VENETO D E ANNUNZIA ZINI VIALE GABRIELE D’ANNUNZI Stazione Ferroviaria U countryside, natural thermal destinations not far fromV IA M O N T E B E L L O Florence, Firenze G L AZ Ponte delle Cascine VIA MAGENTA VIA DELL I Nelson Mandela Forum V IA T O R C IC O D A Santa Maria Novella I V IA A N T O N IO C A N O V A A L F A N I P E M LI » OR A L T A VIA MORTULI Giardino VIA BENEDETTO VARCHI IN V AI S O L F E R NI O MAP PAGES’ 58-59SO ERVI Spedale degli Innocenti TI VIA DEL FRANCIABIGIO ARI degli Orti Oricellari PIAZZA G A ’ S V I ENT V I A C A V O C VIA MILAZZO DELLA STAZIONE I I VIA G. DA MONTORSOLI L A N O C E DE E R V AI O D EA www.whereitalia.com/florence . D A COVERCIANO VIA DEL CANTOB DEI NELLI VIA AUGUSTO NOVELLI A VIALE GIUSEP V. DELLA RONDINELLA V. DEGLI OLEANDRI VIA BERNARDO RUCELLAI VI A V. DEL PALAZZO DEI DIAVOLI MORTULI VIA Centro Lingustico M A S V. D. AZALEEV. D. L U N G A R N O D E L P I G N O N E springs and medieval towns. erina da Palazzo VI INI offering discounts year-round. t a VI .C iena Rotonda del Brunelleschi V I A D E L L A S a S Medici Riccardi O d P. DI MADONNA Museo I V. D. ORTI ORICELLARI . C B O R G O P I N L V I A B . B A N D I N E L L I V C PIAZZA VIA FRATELLI ROSSELLI O DEGLI Leonardo da Vinci A C VIALE MANFREDO FA L’ISOLOTTO V. R Basilica A V AI D E G L IA VIALE BERNARDO SEGNI V I A PA L A Z Z U O L O P. DELL'UNITÀ ALDOBRANDINI PIAZZA L FILIPPO Download all issues DEGL L VIA BERTOLDO DI GIOVANNI C A
VIA DEL R. FIORENTI R. DEL VIA BE di San Lorenzo SAN E C VIA DEL PIGNONCINO DEL VIA ITALIANA BRUNELLESCHI VIA DEL MELARANCIO V I A D E ’ T VIAC MAGENTA O R S O TI A L AI Basilica di LORENZO S C O L O N N A VIA GIORDANI I L U N G A R N O A M E R I G O V E S P U C C I VIA D A O VIALE GABRIELE D’ANNUNZIO
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VIA PIETRO FRANCAVILLA E Tempio Maggiore I C S M A R G O I N O T N A E DEL GIGNOR D Santommaso T LU CI A PI VIA BRONZINO DE V. A VI I Israelitico PIAZZA N N E L L I Loggia di San Paolo Palazzo D'aquino UC A V VIA CAPO DI MONDO V. Sinagoga D LLE BELLELLE DONNE VIA AGLI V. DEI PECORI PE DEI Antinori HI VIA DI MELEGNANO PIN R GUGLIELMO VIALE ETRURIA V. B. FRANCESCHINI Ognissanti CELLANA V. CAMPANELLA VIA DEL MEZZETTA FIESOLA I VIALE ETRURIA Chiesa SC L U N G A R N O S A N TA R O S A R V. FRA' SARPI Chiesa dei A V. DELL'ORIUOLO E P I IETTI VIA SANT'EGIDIO A
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A1 AUTOSTRADA DEL SOLE EDITORIAL WELCOME TO ITALY YOUR TRAVELING COMPANION SINCE 1936® DISCOVER MORE ®
whereMAGAZINE Florence We’ve been here for centuries. www.whereitalia.com/florence We’re waiting for you. PROEDI MEDIA - WHERE Via Ezio Biondi, 1. 20154 Milano. Now, we’re ready to show you the most T: 02 349951 - Fax 02 33107015 beautiful country in the world. [email protected] www.whereitalia.com/florence The recent pandemic has severely affected one PUBLISHER AND EDITOR-IN-CHIEF of the linchpins of the global economy – the Andrea Jarach Andrea Jarach tourism industry. The closing of borders and drop [email protected] Publisher MANAGING EDITOR in available revenue at the time of writing this Where® Alessandra Finzi editorial could be very depressing, but remember [email protected] CONTRIBUTORS we’re talking about Italy: a favourite destination of travelers for Carey Bernitz, Floriana di Maio, Cornelia G. Hassmüller, Joy Lacanlale, centuries. Throughout history, our country has been affected by war, Fabio Lancini, Language Consulting Congressi, famine and epidemics, and each time it has risen from the ashes to Giulia Minero, Elena Peverata, Chiara Zaccarelli once again become the most desirable tourist destination in the world. ICONOGRAPHY Archivio Proedi Media, Shutterstock CARTOGRAPHY City Map: © Proedi Comunicazione 2020 Every night is followed by a new dawn, and you can already see some Fast Trains Network Map: Dmitry Goloub - signs of this. An analysis of the Internet’s Big Data sets shows that Italy © Proedi Comunicazione 2020 is the first holiday destination in searches by millions of Internet users. COO Pierfrancesco Coreno Italy’s wealth of natural and cultural treasures is unrivalled. Our country [email protected] boasts the highest number of UNESCO World Heritage Sites. If Italy MARKETING & ADVERTISING Sieva Carolo, Isa Faleschini, Daniele Misrachi, were a museum, it would be the largest museum in the world, if it were Rachele Renna, Paola Zannoni [email protected] a restaurant it would be notable for having the world’s most-widely ADMINISTRATION appreciated cuisine, and if Italy were a beach, it would be the best Katia Greto [email protected] equipped in the world. PRODUCTION & CIRCULATION, SALES SUPPORT MANAGER Mountains, forests and woods, lakes, hills and unique landscapes are Paola Grilli [email protected] only some of Italy’s most distinctive features. However, all of this is HOTEL RELATIONS MANAGER made even more unique by its people. For millennia, the peninsula was Marta Mailhac a destination for migrants, and people, from all corners of the earth, [email protected] CUSTOMER SERVICES settled here bringing with them the different cultures that resulted in Cristina Garbini the creation of Italy. [email protected] REG. TRIB. MILANO No.156 DEL 10/05/2018 EDITORE: PROEDI COMUNICAZIONE SRL - ISCRIZIONE AL ROC N.2455 So dear visitor, it is with pride that we have met the enormous DIRETTORE RESPONSABILE: ANDREA JARACH PRINTED BY GRAPHICSCALVE SPA challenge of the pandemic, and are now, once again, waiting to show LOCALITÀ PONTE FORMELLO, 1/3/4 24020 VILMINORE DI SCALVE (BG) Although the publisher has made every effort to include copyright credits, in you our Italy. We are here to welcome you with open arms to offer the event of there being any errors, oversights or omissions, we would like to apologize to the copyright holders in question whose names will be published you a unique experience that millions of visitors have enjoyed for in the next issue. Where® Magazine makes every effort to ensure the accuracy of the centuries. Remember the plague in the Middle Ages was followed by information it publishes, but cannot be held responsible for any consequences arising from errors or omissions. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole the Renaissance… or in part is strictly prohibited. EXCLUSIVE GIFT FROM TOP HOTELS
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SEE MAP Top in Town PAGE 58 SAN MINIATO AL MONTE 1 4 2 5 The Abbey of San Miniato al Monte is a medieval religious building situated at one of the highest panoramic points in Florence. The most spectacular access is gained via the monumental flight of steps. The outside of the church is decorated with green and white marble, typical of Florentine Romanesque, while the interior, which is unusual and of great beauty, boasts one of the city’s best conserved original floors. 10
MERCATO CENTRALE Built at the end of the 19th century, the Central Market is a building of a certain architectural merit. The project was entrusted to Giuseppe Mengoni, the architect of the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele in Milan, who was inspired by 6 3 8 13 Les Halles in Paris. Today, a point of reference for informal but good quality cuisine for both Florentines and tourists. 11
SANTA CROCE One of the “great basilicas” in Florence, a point of reference of the Franciscan order. Giotto painted some of his great masterpieces here and the French writer Stendhal experienced that profound artistic agitation that has been known since then as the “Stendhal syndrome”. The basilica contains the monumental sepulchres of Michelangelo, Galileo and Machiavelli. 12 SHUTTERSTOCK SANTA MARIA NOVELLA A point of reference of the Dominican order, PHOTOS © the church, with its elegant façade by Leon Battista Alberti, is a harmonious synthesis of Gothic and Renaissance styles. It hosts exceptional works of art by Masaccio, Giotto, DUOMO AND CUPOLA CAMPANILE DI GIOTTO square are the Fountain of Neptune and a series Middle Ages the bridge hosted greengrocers’, PALAZZO PITTI AND GIARDINO DI BOBOLI Brunelleschi, Filippino Lippi, Domenico Completed in 1436, at the time the Duomo 84.70 metres high and around 15 wide, the of statues of Renaissance origin, representing fishmongers’ and butchers’ shops, who used The symbol of wealth and power, the building Ghirlandaio and Paolo Uccello. 13 in Florence was the largest Christian church Giotto’s bell tower is one of the four main one of the most important sculptural cycles in the river to dispose of their waste in a hurry. was inhabited by the Medici, then by the in the world. Today the religious building, the components of the complex of Santa Maria the world. The most famous is certainly At the end of the 16th century, however, Habsburg-Lorraines and, after the Unity of Italy, SANTO SPIRITO official name of which is “Cathedral of Santa del Fiore. Lined with white, red and green Michelangelo’s David (this is a copy, whereas when it became the “noble” zone of the city, by the Savoy family. The original architecture A point of reference of the Augustinian order. Maria del Fiore”, is third in terms of marble, the majestic square-based bell tower, the original is conserved in the Galleria the goldsmiths and jewellers started to arrive, dates back to the 15th century and “Pitti” is the The church has given its name to the entire dimensions after St. Peter’s in Rome and St. designed by Giotto in 1334, can be visited by dell’Accademia). 4 and they have been there uninterruptedly surname of its first owner. The building is located surrounding neighbourhood, “Borgo Santo Paul’s Cathedral in London. Brunelleschi’s climbing no less than 414 stairs up to the top, to this day. 6 Oltrarno, at the foot of Boboli Hill. The Boboli Spirito”. A jewel of Renaissance architecture, Dome, still the tallest construction in the city, from where you can enjoy extraordinary views GALLERIA DEGLI UFFIZI Gardens are one of the most important examples the church was the last great project by Filippo is a symbol known all over the world. 1 of Brunelleschi’s Dome. 3 One of the most famous museums in the world CORRIDOIO VASARIANO of Italian-style gardens in the world. 8 Brunelleschi. 14 on account of its extraordinary collections of The Vasari Corridor is a raised walkway BATTISTERO PIAZZA DELLA SIGNORIA ancient sculptures and paintings (from the connecting Ponte Vecchio with Palazzo Pitti. PIAZZALE MICHELANGELO SAN LORENZO The Baptistery of St. John the Baptist is AND PALAZZO VECCHIO Middle Ages to the modern age). The Gallery It is a rather narrow passage the entrance to This is the most famous and appreciated One of the “great basilicas” of Florence, founded, characterised by an octagonal plan, lined This is the central square of Florence, the seat occupies the first and second floors of the large which is at the beginning of the second panoramic point in Florence, with its views according to the tradition, by Saint Ambrose, with a dome of eight segments, covered by of civil power and social heart of the city. Facing building erected between 1560 and 1580 corridor of the Uffizi Gallery; it then stretches seen all over the world in million of postcards the first bishop of Milan, in the 4th century AD. a pyramid roof. The outside is decorated onto it are Palazzo Vecchio (the seat of the based on a project by Giorgio Vasari 5 along the Arno, over the Ponte Vecchio, and reproductions. The design of the square Its current appearance, however, is the result of with white marble from Carrara and green Municipal Council of Florence), the splendid finally arriving at Palazzo Pitti. It was built in dates back to 1869, when Florence was capital the last major reconstruction work that took marble from Prato, characteristics of the Loggia della Signoria, the Tribunale della PONTE VECCHIO 1565 by the great Florentine architect Giorgio of Italy. Dedicated to the city’s most famous place in the 15th century at the wishes of the Florentine architecture of the Romanesque Mercanzia, Palazzo Uguccioni and Palazzo delle The official date of foundation of the current Vasari. On display along the Corridor are over artist, the square has bronze copies of some of Medici and under the direction of the great period. 2 Assicurazioni Generali. Also prominent in the Ponte Vecchio is given as 1345. For the entire 1000 paintings. 7 Michelangelo’s most famous sculptures. 9 architect Filippo Brunelleschi. 15
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SANTHE BEAUTY MINIATO OVERLOOKING AL FLORENCE MONTE
− The Abbey of San Miniato al Monte is a splendid example of Florentine Romanesque and is located on the hill overlooking the left bank of the city. From here you can enjoy a beautiful panoramic view of Florence, from the Duomo to Palazzo Vecchio, to the ancient walls surrounding the city. − What is perhaps the truest meaning of San Miniato al Monte is revealed to us by the inscription written on the eastern door, which for centuries has advised wayfarers with the words: “Haec est Porta Coelis” or “This is the Door of Heaven” in Latin. − Built between the 11th and 13th centuries, the exterior is decorated with multicolour green and white marble forming geometrical designs, similar to those of the façades of Santa Croce and Santa Maria Novella. − The interior is in Romanesque style with three aisles, a raised chancel and a crypt that holds incredible treasures, such as the Chapel of the Cardinal of Portugal, built between 1461 and 1466 by Antonio Manetti. − Also worthy of note is the marble floor of the central aisle, a marble carpet composed of an intricate embroidery of geometrical arabesques, figures taken from exotic bestiaries and a zodiac. And then there is the monastic choir, a wooden work from the 15th century, where for centuries the monks, concealed from the pilgrims’ eyes, have intoned Gregorian chants. − The monumental cemetery, in front of and behind the church, contains the tombs of many illustrious personalities, including that of Carlo Collodi, the author of Pinocchio. − The monks also run the Monastic Pharmacy where it is possible to purchase, among other things, beeswax candles, chocolate sweets, jam tarts and biscuits, all hand-crafted by the monks themselves. − San Miniato al Monte can be reached using public transport (from the station of Santa Maria Novella you can take bus no. 12 to the Prato Barbetti stop, in the direction of Piazzale Michelangelo), or, if you are in good shape, you can climb on foot from the district of San Niccolò, walking up along the delightful Via di Monte alle Croci.
Abbey of San Miniato al Monte Via delle Porte Sante, 34 www.sanminiatoalmonte.it PH © PYTY / SHUTTERSTOCK.COM
8 WHERE FLORENCE I SEPTEMBER 2020 www.wheretraveler.com 9 WHERE NOW | LANDMARK PALAZZO PITTI MUSEUMS
A RENAISSANCE MASTERPIECE. A palace for three dynasties, this extraordinary building is located in the Oltrarno, at the foot of Boboli Hill. The famous Boboli Gardens, which are the park of the palace, a genuine open-air museum, take their name from this hill. Palazzo Pitti currently contains four different museums.
Treasures of the Grand Dukes (ground floor and mezzanine) Conserved in what were the summer apartments of the Medici family are the precious “Treasures of the Medici”: vases made of semi-precious stones, rock crystals, ambers and ivories, the exceptional collection of Oriental porcelains; there is also the silverware of the so-called “Treasure of Salzburg”, an important collection of jewels created between the 17th and 20th centuries, and a significant section dedicated to contemporary jewellery.
Palatine Gallery and Monumental Apartments (noble floor) The 14 sumptuously furnished rooms of the Royal Apartments offer a fascinating blend of styles telling of the daily lives and tastes of the various periods and families that lived there. The “Quadreria”, the Picture Gallery, established between the 18th and 19th centuries by the Lorena family, includes the world’s largest concentration of works by Raphael, as well as paintings by Titian, Tintoretto, Caravaggio and Rubens.
Gallery of Modern Art (second floor) Today the sumptuous environments that were once the residence of the Lorena family house paintings and sculptures, mostly Italian, from Neoclassicism to the 1930s, with an important group of paintings by the Macchiaioli school.
Museum of Fashion and Costume (Palazzina della Meridiana) This museum possesses a stock of six thousand items, including ancient clothing, theatrical costumes and fashion accessories from the 18th century to today, in addition to underwear, jewels and costume jewellery. Included among the costumes are the 16th-century burial clothes of Cosimo I de’ Medici, Eleonor of Toledo and their son.
Piazza de’ Pitti, 1. www.uffizi.it/palazzo-pitti. PH © ROBMENTING / SHUTTERSTOCK.COM WHERE NOW | WHAT TO DO
Discover UNTIL 13 NOVEMBER ► 100 metal wolfes & Enjoy invade the city The monumental installation by chinese artist Liu Whether it’s discovering the events Ruowang occupies two prestigious spaces, Piazza Pitti and Piazza Santissima Annunziata, and wants to create celebrating Italian traditions or visiting connection and contrast with the idea of harmony typical an exhibition, Where® brings you of 15th century Humanism. The wolves indeed face two this month’s unmissable dates. emblematic buildings of the Renaissance, Palazzo Pitti and the Spedale degli Innocenti, where the great Filippo Brunelleschi was able to show his conception of space, proportions and architectural rhythm. The threatening pack of wolves shaped by Liu Ruowang - made up of UNTIL 1 NOVEMBER 100 iron castings, each weighing 280 kg - is an allegory Tomás Saraceno of nature’s response to the ravages and predatory behavior of man towards environment. And it is, at the at Palazzo Strozzi same time, a reflection on the values of civilization, on Cobwebs as works of art, the cosmos as geometries, the great uncertainty in which we live today and on the vibrations and sounds: Tomás Saraceno, a visionary actual risks of an irreversible annihilation of the current artist whose creative research combines art, natural world, apparently devoted to self-destruction. and social sciences, invites you to change your www.uffizi.it perspective on reality and connect with non- human elements such as dust, insects or plants, the protagonists of his installations. At Palazzo Strozzi, “Aria” offers an itinerary of immersive works between the courtyard and the main floor invites you to rethink and overturn the anthropocentric viewpoint: from man at the centre of the world of the Renaissance to man as part of a complex universe in which to seek a new harmony. www.palazzostrozzi.org © ELA BIALKOWSKA, OKNO STUDIO PH
UNTIL 18 OCTOBER ◄ Kurt Cobain at Palazzo Medici Riccardi Over 80 photographs by the two most celebrated photographers of the period, Charles Peterson and Michael Levine, look back over the history of the grunge music scene and that of its undisputed hero, Kurt Cobain, symbol of the US counterculture of the 1990s. The exhibition opens up the entire Seattle music scene of the late millennium, immortalising a fundamental and recent period in US history. www.palazzomediciriccardi.it - www.oeoart.com
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considering it a source of great pride, that sometimes you need only turn into an Canottieri Firenze, as well as bringing Mussolini invited Hitler there in 1938, opening unknown alley to get away from the bustling together sporting rowers, is a point of up new larger, more panoramic windows for crowds and enjoy a carefree stroll. reference for the activities that take place on Discovering Ponte Vecchio his benefit. One rather romanticised version the banks of the river. Today, the Circle also claims that Hitler himself, cherishing the UNDER THE BRIDGE offers a stupendous location for aperitifs, memory of such beauty, would decide to Finally, you should know that there is also lunches and dinners. save the bridge from the terrible bombing life under the bridge: the historic Società campaigns of 1944. Unfortunately, the historical reconstruction seems to prove that this merit cannot be ascribed to the German dictator.
LUXURY SHOPPING For more than four hundred years, Ponte Vecchio has therefore been inhabited by artisans creating admirable gold and silver objects. Still today, this remains the commercial vocation of the neighbourhood, which is nevertheless not lacking in other luxury trades, starting with artisan leather goods. Obviously, the accesses and areas surrounding the Bridge, between via Por Santa Maria and Lungarno degli Archibusieri on one side, and between Borgo San Jacopo and via de’ Guicciardini on the other, are also swarming with points of interest and high-quality shops. Bear in mind, however, Vasari Corridor SHUTTERSTOCK PHOTOS ©
It is one of the undisputed
symbols of Florence and, irst of all, it must be said that protruding over the river. as such, is one of the most Ponte Vecchio (literally “Old Then, grafted onto the high part of the photographed sites in the Bridge”) is indeed “old”. The bridge is the Vasari Corridor, the strategic first to identify a ford in the passageway that was built at the wishes world. Here are some details so Arno were the Etruscans. of Cosimo de’ Medici in 1565 to connect you can get to know it better. The Roman founders of the the administrative buildings to his private Fvillage of “Florentia” built a wood and stone residence, without exposing the sovereign to bridge there, the forerunner of the current any danger. one, which dates back to around 1345. Since then, with all the various restorations A UNIQUE HISTORY and modifications, this passage across the The change of identity of the zone during Arno has remained in its place, actively the Renaissance is due precisely to the participating in the history of the city. Vasari Corridor. The traditional shops of greengrocers, butchers and fishmongers, who ORIGINAL ARCHITECTURE had a preference for the bridge on account The bridge is characterised by a solution of the ease with which they could throw with lowered arches, never previously their waste into the river, were evicted en seen, which makes it particularly stable bloc: it was preferred to offer the sovereign and its profile unmistakable. From the very goldsmiths’ and jewellers’ shops, which beginning, it was understood to be a natural were more appropriate for his gaze (and continuation of the road, and so it has his nose), and they have continued their shops and porticos along both sides facing presence there ever since for the pleasure towards the centre, each with a single shop of tourists. Since then, Ponte Vecchio has window closed by strong wooden doors, been an assiduous witness – and sometimes and often with a picturesque backroom a protagonist – of the history of the city:
14 WHERE FLORENCE I SEPTEMBER 2020 www.wheretraveler.com 15 WHERE NOW | OUT OF TOWN Tuscany’s soft rolling hills
to the historic centre and Piazza dei Cavalieri, the political fulcrum of medieval Pisa. Facing onto the square is Palazzo della Carovana, with graffiti by Giorgio Vasari, which today houses the Scuola Normale Superiore, one of the most prestigious universities in the world. With a brief trip by coach from Florence you reach Siena, one of the most loved medieval centres in Italy, which is also included on the UNESCO World Heritage List. The city’s nerve centre is Piazza del Campo, which is renowned for its unique shell shape, for its architectural integrity, and because twice a
year (2 July and 16 August) it holds the Palio SONGQUAN DENG / SHUTTERSTOCK.COM di Siena, a horse race that is of fundamental importance for the Sienese, which sees the Lucca, Piazza dell’Anfiteatro PHOTO © seventeen historic districts that comprise the city compete against each other. The San Gimignano is famous above all for its is around half an hour by car from the centre of square is dominated by a series of buildings medieval towers, which were as many as 72 at Florence. If you are lucky enough to be there of inestimable historical and architectural one time and today are just fifteen, including between September and November you can value, including the 14th-century Palazzo some in ruins and without their tops but still witness two key events for the economy Pubblico and the attached Torre del Mangia, visible as part of the urban fabric. and culture of the territory: the harvesting with its characteristic red colour, the Cappella of grapes and olives. di Piazza, the Loggia della Mercanzia and NATURALISTIC ITINERARIES Let’s now leave this idyllic setting and move Palazzo Sansedoni. But Siena is not just Florence is surrounded by hills, gentle valleys towards a wilder, more barren territory, that of Piazza del Campo: lose yourself along the and luxuriant vineyards. Climbing them is easy, the Crete Senesi. Located in the area south- picturesque medieval alleys, where you can both on foot and on the numerous buses east of Siena, the crete are clay hills, the result purchase the local hand-crafted goods departing from the city centre. Over the years of the continuous erosion of the sea sediments. or taste the traditional panforte, the typical the hill of Fiesole has been the source of These bare, softly undulating hills, with their Sienese spiced bread with almonds, candied inspiration for artists, spiritual figures, noble characteristic grey-blue colour and almost lunar fruit and pepper. families, writers and entrepreneurs. From this appearance, are dotted with cypresses and And a few kilometres from Siena, another privileged observatory, dotted with villas, farmhouses and still encapsulate the essence town declared a World Heritage Site by museums, archaeological excavations, churches of the most authentic Tuscany; they are far UNESCO awaits you with its towers and its and convents, you can enjoy beautiful views of removed from the tourist routes, rich in traces
SHUTTERSTOCK characteristic medieval architecture. It is the Florence and the Florentine countryside. If you and remains of ancient civilisations, picturesque unmissable San Gimignano, situated in the love panoramas, another unmissable spot is the medieval towns and culinary festivals. heart of the Tuscan countryside. Walking small town of Settignano. Tuscany, nature and art PHOTO © round this small town, the 13th/14th-century The very famous Chianti zone, renowned for TUSCANY BIKING appearance of which is still practically its vineyards, verdant valleys, rows of cypresses, Would you like to discover the area around unchanged, is almost like going back in time. olive groves, towns and abbeys built on hilltops, Florence from a different perspective, more
If Florence offers tourists f you choose Florence as your base, cycle along the tree-lined walls, stop for a an unrivalled cultural and the good news is that around an hour tasty ice cream or simply cool down on the away by train, bus or car you will find benches. The picturesque historic centre has historical heritage, its UNESCO heritage cities of art, dreamy remained almost intact, including countless surrounding area no less so. countryside, natural thermal springs, medieval churches, which have earned Lucca Here are some suggestions medieval towns and abbeys and the nickname of “city of the 100 churches”, kilometres of coastline for bathers. Renaissance squares and buildings and for trips outside the city that I Roman amphitheatres. are able to satisfy any need. CITIES OF ART The famous Leaning Tower of Pisa can also For more details ask If you love cities of art then you’ve chosen the be easily reached from Florence in about right region. Indeed, within an hour’s range an hour by train. Loved by tourists from your concierge. from the Tuscan regional capital there are all over the world for its peculiar tilt, the BY CHIARA ZACCARELLI architectural wonders that will catapult you Tower of Pisa is in reality the bell tower of into medieval and Renaissance Tuscany. the Cathedral, which stands in a unique About an hour by train from Florence is monumental context, declared a UNESCO
Lucca, one of Tuscany’s most fascinating World Heritage Site: Piazza dei Miracoli. SHUTTERSTOCK.COM SHUTTERSTOCK.COM historic centres, surrounded by ancient Once you’ve completed your visit to this th 16 -century walls, today still practically fully unbelievable square, if you have a little time Fiesole, Roman Theatre PHOTO © PHOTO © intact and walkable in their entirely. You can left, you can relax with a walk along the Arno
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LUGANO MENDRISIO BERGAMO BRESCIA NOVARA TRIESTE MURATARTI/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM MURATARTI/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM MILANO PHOTO © Pisa, Tuscany PHOTO © Ponte Vecchio, Florence
on a human scale and in contact with by the Associazione Aerostatica Toscana, celebrateALESSANDRIA an important event surrounded other hand, is known as “the pearl of the by train directly from Florence, the beach nature? Then you can opt for a bicycle tour. offers its guests itineraries lasting between by a unique atmosphere. Tyrrhenian” on account of its breathtaking at Quercianella, again in the province Pedalling along the romantic olive groves, 45 and 90 minutes flying over some of TORINO landscapes, characterised by sheerFERRARA cliffs, of Livorno, is excellent for lovers of the vineyards, medieval town and Medici villas, the region’s most unmissable destinations, THE BEACHES coves and pinewoods. Very easy to reach Mediterranean maquis and perfect for taking in the perfumes and colours of the including cities of art and charming Your bathing costume and beach towel PIACENZA diving and snorkelling enthusiasts. Tuscan countryside in ways that would landscapes (ww.balloonintuscany.com). are probably not the first things you think MAR otherwise be impossible. After the effort of Various launch points – located in Florence, of putting in your suitcase if you are about pedalling, almost all the tours envisage rest Siena and San Gimignano, as well as in the to set off for Florence, but if youGENOVA visit in the ADRIATICO and refreshment with visits to wine cellars heart of the Chianti hills – enable you to summer you might feel the desire to seek a BOLOGNA and the tasting of wines, olive oils and local personalize your itinerary to the maximum, little refreshment at one of the many beaches FORTE specialities. If you are not particularly sporty at the same time enjoying the exhilaration of dotted along the Tuscan coastline. but would still like to visit the outskirts of flight, the beauty of unprecedented scenery Although the Medici city is deep inland, DEI MARMI THE APPENNINI RIMINI Florence from this unique perspective, then and the discovery of cultural landmarks there are in factMAR various beaches LIGURE that can LUCCA MOUNTAIN RIDGE you can choose a tour by Vespa, with that guided by pilots who are experts on the be easily reached both by car and by train. irresistible vintage touch that is undoubtedly locations. The slow movement of the hot-air The closest, the preferred destination of chic PISA less tiring. Ask your concierge. balloon makes Balloon in Tuscany tours Florentines, is Forte dei Marmi, located in FIRENZE ideal for photography lovers, especially in VENTIMIGLIAnorth-western Tuscany, with its long well TUSCANY FROM ABOVE the early light of dawn, when old castles, equipped beaches, dotted with venues It may be difficult to visit all the main places Renaissance Tuscan villas, ancient towns, frequented by VIPs, fashion boutiques and SAN GIMIGNANO of interest in Tuscany if you have little time towers, water courses and vineyards are exclusive nightspots. Further south, in the available. If you happen to only be in Florence tinges with countless delicate shades. province of Livorno, you breathe an entirely for a weekend, why not opt for a panoramic Thanks to the different sizes of the baskets, different atmosphere. Vada is perfect for LIVORNO ANCONA tour from a different perspective, perhaps the hot-air balloons can host from 4 to 10 nature lovers with its free beaches; here the SIENA in a hot-air balloon? Balloon in Tuscany, a passengers, but they are also available for water is shallow and transparent and the company recognised romantic flights for couples, perhaps to sand pale and fine. Castiglioncello, on the 18 WHERE FLORENCE I SEPTEMBER 2020 PERUGIA
PESCARA CORSICA
ROMA
MAR TIRRENO
NAPOLI
SARDEGNA WHERE NOW | GRAND TOUR
artists like Titian, Perugino, Leonardo da Vinci The Italian ‘Lake district’ and Correggio to her court. Inspired by his Over the past few years, due to the influx mother’s passion for collecting art, Federico II of Hollywood celebrities, Lake Como has invited Raphael’s pupil Giulio become the most famous of all the lakes. An almost uninterrupted sequence of villas, each with its own landing stage, decorates the Bologna, Unique banks of this idyllic lakeside resort. However, Northern Italy also has two other famous the university of Italy lakes that attract visitors from far and wide: Built in 1088, most historians agree that the Italian Landscape Lake Maggiore and Lake Garda. The former University of Bologna is the oldest university is more tranquil and shadier, while the latter, in the world. Thanks to the continuous The variety and beauty of its “landscape” so vast that it looks like a still sea, is more turnover of students from all over the world, is what makes Italy unique. This term is not vibrant and windier. Its expanse of water from medieval times to the present day, this and the diversity of the countryside make university has made Bologna a vibrant city always easily translatable but relates to the the area a real outdoor recreation ground. from many aspects; cultural, creative, artistic environment and the many ways in which Como, Maggiore and Garda combine to and social. It is therefore not surprising that many people relate to the words of Giosuè man has transformed it, during its multi- form one of the most enchanting splashes of scenery in Northern Italy. Garda, in particular, Carducci, one of the most important Italian faceted history. The result is a combination is renowned for its fabulous citrus fruits and poets, who wrote in 1888: “I love Bologna; of nature and art that delights the eye and DOP olive oil. for the faults, the mistakes, the follies of my youth which I committed here, and which the heart. I cannot regret, but I love it more because Mantua, it’s beautiful.” Must-visit sights include the the city of the Gonzagas historic centre with its porticoes and towers, Though less well-known than Venice or streets and markets, and main square with Florence, Mantua, a charming city situated the enormous Basilica di San Petronio. Its hilly in Northern Italy on the banks of the surroundings are also breathtaking. River Mincio, is packed with art treasures. Governed by the Gonzaga family for four centuries, from circa 1300 to 1700, this Portofino, home to Lombard city experienced its maximum the ‘piazzetta’ and period of splendour during the Renaissance, mysterious villas when its most famous masterpieces were With its narrow streets leading down to the executed. A renowned patron of the arts, sea, pastel-washed houses and crystal clear Isabella d’Este, the Marchesa of Mantua and waters, Portofino is the ideal harbor. It is the wife of Federico Gonzaga, summoned therefore no surprise that since ancient
Taormina
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The very famous Chianti zone, are the best in the world. Apropos of coffee, renowned for its vineyards, there’s a tradition that sums up the city better verdant valleys, rows of cypresses, than a thousand words: the Neapolitans call it STROLLING THROUGH THE CITY olives groves, towns and abbeys “caffè appeso” and it involves buying a coffee built on hilltops, is around for yourself, and then purchasing another originally covered the Colosseum. They half an hour by car from the one for someone else who doesn’t have the were ‘recycled’ to build several historic centre of Florence. money to pay for it. Roman buildings including the Basilica Naples is the ideal starting point to explore of St. Peter’s and Palazzo Barberini. the other beauties of Italy: the islands of the archipelago, Capri, Ischia and Procida, and the Amalfi Coast infused with the scent of Florence lemons. There is also Pompeii, the city, buried How can one describe a city which by layers of volcanic ash during the eruption originated in the Renaissance in just a few of Vesuvius two thousand years ago, and one words? It’s impossible! The only solution of the most incredible archaeological sites in Venice is to visit the Duomo or Santa Croce, the the world. masterpieces housed in the Uffizi, the Tuscan Ponte Vecchio or Piazza della Signoria, Venice Michelangelo’s “David” or Palazzo Pitti. It Matera, the hidden pearl With canals in the place of streets, and is really no surprise that the entire city boats instead of cars, Venice, the city is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Since of the South of a thousand bridges, spectacular there is not one centimeter that is not When it became the European capital of facades, and breathtaking views, offers a worthy visiting, we strongly suggest that culture in 2019, Materia has got the visibility dreamlike vision. This romantic city par you make time to lose yourself amidst it deserved. Matera was founded in the dark excellence, has a wealth of historic and its art and architecture, its history and its ages, and is one of the most intriguing places artistic treasures that would be difficult landscapes. There’s just one thing that in Southern Italy, renowned, above all, for the to find in any country other than Italy. you need to remember: this is the place uniqueness of it charming historic centre. Its To enjoy them to the fullest, climb to where Stendhal experienced what was so-called ‘Sassi’ (cave dwellings) are houses, the top of St. Mark’s bell tower, or the later to become known as the Stendhal churches and, now, even hotels, literally carved lesser known spiral staircase of Palazzo syndrome… into the tufa stone. Lying one on top of the Contarini del Bovolo, and let your gaze other, they overhang a gorge to create an wander over the lagoon. incredible nativity-like scenario. Located just a few kilometers from the beaches of Puglia, the city is well worth a visit. In addition to the Rome Sassi, it includes a Romanesque cathedral, the Fifteen square kilometers and twenty- Convent of Sant’Agostino, the church of San five-thousand attractions: Rome’s Matera Portofino Giovanni Battista and the Baroque church of historic centre has been a UNESCO San Francesco. Located off the beaten tourist world heritage site since 1980. A symbol among symbols and the most widely times, this beautiful coastal village has been There’s Siena, with its unmistakable square. northern Tuscany. It is here that the majority track, Matera has often been used as a film photographed monument in the world, a highly sought-after holiday destination. There’s San Gimignano with its sixteen towers of the area’s most fashionable seaside resorts set. In 2003, thanks to its arresting landscapes the Colosseum is considered one of Florence And, even now, with its ‘piazzetta’, Portofino and Pisa, whose one and only tower is unique are located. The summer getaway for the rich and timeless atmosphere, Mel Gibson the 7 wonders of the modern world. is a reference point for international tourism. throughout the world. Ultimately, there and famous including financiers, big names chose Matera to re-create the biblical city of The memory of its performances – Although its hotels are astronomically are Tuscany’s cities and art, its man-made in sports and showbiz celebrities, Forte dei Jerusalem for his controversial blockbuster ‘The Turin gladiators, wild animals and naval battles priced, a drink by its yacht-filled harbor, artifacts and its vestiges of history. Above Marmi was founded in 1788 by the Grand Passion of Christ’. A Roman colony, the first capital of – re-enacted in the arena have always or a stroll around its designer shops can all, there’s the lyrical landscape with which Duke of Tuscany Pietro Leopoldo I of Lorraine Italy and an industrial city. From its fueled the fantasy of history and film be easily enjoyed on a day trip. There are Tuscany continues to enchant both Italians who commissioned the building of a ‘fort’ to origins to the present time, Turin has buffs. However, everyone is aware of many anecdotes about the town which was and foreigners. There are gently rolling defend the shipment of the precious marble The Kingdom of Baroque had several different incarnations, Caltagirone, Militello, Catania, Modica, Noto, what happened to the 100,000 cubic used as film set for the Antonioni/Wenders hills, cypresses, sunflowers, narrow winding quarried from the nearby town of Carrara, each of which has left profound traces Palazzolo, Ragusa and Scicli: these are the metres of shining white marble that movie ‘Beyond the Clouds’. One in particular streets and stone houses scattered around thus making it an important crossroads for in its architecture and urban layout. names of Sicily’s magical Baroque towns. concerns Villa Altachiara. Its first owner, Lord the countryside. The Tuscan experience is trade. The town is also a mecca of luxury Extending over a surface area of less Protected by UNESCO, and located in south- Carnarvon, who financed the expedition that bound to win over your heart. However, if you shopping. than 150 square kilometers, crossed by eastern Sicily, they are sure to steal your led to the discovery of Tutankhamun’s tomb, haven’t had your fill of marvels, stop at San the Po, the longest river in Italy, Turin heart and leave you awestruck. Although is said to have brought the ‘Curse of the Galgano, the abbey with the sky for a roof! is characterized by a checkerboard-like almost all of these towns existed during Pharaoh’ upon himself. He died shortly after Ah, the wonders of Tuscany! grid of streets that makes getting your medieval times, they were razed to the the tomb was opened and his villa became a Naples and then… bearings easy. One of the city’s most “See Naples and die” is an Italian saying of ground by a devastating earthquake in 1693. site of sinister, inexplicable happenings… distinctive architectural features is its Forte dei Marmi: the sea unknown origin. Believe it or not, all the However, this tragedy resulted in a miracle 18km of porticoes which house shops of Tuscany clichés about Naples are true: it’s opulent, of beauty: architecture, urban planning and and cafés: its porticoes and its elegant Tuscany, the Italy that In addition to being the birthplace of a queen passionate, musical, contradictory, chaotic the ornamentation of buildings constitute squares have given Turin the nickname everyone dreams about (Paola Ruffo of Calabria, the Queen Consort and neglected. People are friendly and the crowning achievement of one of the last Rome of a ‘drawing room’ city. There’s Florence, boasting the magnificent of Belgium until 2013), Forte dei Marmi is the ‘trained’ over the centuries to ‘get by’, for periods of the flourishing Baroque movement works of Michelangelo and his marble statues. jet-set paradise of Versilia, on the coast of better or worse. And, yes, its pizza and coffee PHOTOS © SHUTTERSTOCK.COM in Europe. An absolute marvel!
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Pinacoteca di Brera, Milan Peggy Guggenheim Collection, Venice. Ph © Matteo De Fina
Beato Angelico, Filippo Lippi, Botticelli, AN ITALIAN HISTORY Museo della Scienza Mantegna, Correggio, Leonardo, Raffaello A rich online program powered by Virtual Tours and Michelangelo. Moreover, the brand- e della Tecnologia Galleria Campari tells of the the “Leonardo da Vinci” new IperVisioni (HyperVisions) section contents that are part of the brand’s MILANO on the official website allows guests to Historical Archive, as well as the the of ITALIAN Museums enjoy special ad hoc exhibitions creating The Milanese hub for science has enriched museum and the space hosting it. a dialogue between art from the past and and YouTube accounts become the ideal its cultural offer by powering its brand- Some of the most iconic advertising Though some of the major the various cultures of the world. Pinacoteca di Brera stage to share ideas and explore new ways to new “Train Stories” augmented reality app, campaigns by artists such as Marcello MILAN >> Check the online activities at museums in Italy are now open experiment with culture. An online section, for which is fully dedicated to the thrilling story Dudovich, Fortunato Depero and www.uffizi.it upon reservation, there are Those who would like to visit a museum example, enables visitors to discover the three of “Valigia delle Indie”, the train convoy Bruno Munari and modern and and don’t have the chance to do it can take that connected London to Bombay until vintage objects can be discovered many other ways to discover featured exhibitions – “The Porcelain Room”, advantage of a new concept of museum “Storytelling” and “K” – and their artworks the early 1900s. Through the app, visitors Peggy Guggenheim thanks to online guided tours their cultural offer without visits powered by Pinacoteca di Brera (Brera Art have the chance to walk along the train powered with the 3D technology. online. Moreover, the “Finite Rants” online Collection the need to book your seat. Gallery). On the art gallery’s website, lovers of project features 8 different visual essays – and discover the technological innovations VENICE Book your tour by writing to art can discover over 669 works of art thanks which change monthly – commissioned to in travels introduced by this special convoy. [email protected] Where? Online, of course! We've The Peggy Guggenheim Collection to the online collection. Each masterpiece artists, filmmakers, intellectuals and researchers Moreover, users can also use the app to continues its educational mission rounded up a selection of the features a caption, a description of the context to test the efficiency of this intrument to explore the museum’s Railway Pavilion with weekly e-news and social media in which it was created, the used technique and express the author’s thought and discover the highlights, secrets and Italian museums offering virtual programs that include innovative Museo e Real Bosco some additional details. Moreover, thanks to a through images and stories connected to each locomotive and tours and online activities to content designed to share anecdotes, di Capodimonte magnifying lens tool, the most curious visitors visual communication. train though the words of Mr. Marco Iezzi, ideas, and inspiration. Experience the NAPLES satisfy your cultural whims. can get a close up of paintings, altar pieces and Conversely, on Instagram the curator to the pavilion. museum through Art Talks dedicated Always thanks to Google Arts&Culture, the religious images as if they were discovering the online project “Love >> Discover more at BY GIULIA MINERO to masterpieces in the collection, short cultural and artistic gems of the Capodimonte them inside the museum. Stories – A Sentimental www.museoscienza.org tutorials that bring Kids Days directly to Museum near Naples can be admired online >> Check the online collection at Survey by Francesco ven now that the COVID-19 your homes, podcasts on the life of Peggy straight from home. The online Google pinacotecabrera.org Vezzoli” explores the FLORENCE lockdown has come to an end, Galleria degli Uffizi Guggenheim, Art Quizzes to test your Art&Culture platform gathers over 536 works of emotional, love and institutions, public and private Google Arts&Culture, the innovative knowledge of art history, and highlights art hosted in the museum and on its adjacent psychological status of a museums and art galleries are Fondazione Prada online platform by Google dedicated to the of works art chosen by the public. The park. Over 203 paintings can be seen and MILAN vast online comminuty providing their visitors with the most important collections and artworks, multimedia contents can be found on analysed close-up thanks to the Art Camera Milan’s Fondazione Prada has reimagined thanks to the new chance to explore their collections, has introduced a new way of visiting the the official Instagram account: Facebook technology, while the special Street View tool its cultural offer thanks to various online language of social media. the featured exhibitions and even enjoy precious museum in Florence and its sections ThePeggyGuggenheimCollection, enables visitors to enjoy 14 themed stories E >> Check the online services enabling visitors to fully discover the special activities comfortably from home. From thanks to a selection of high-resolution Instagram @guggenheim_venice, and virtual tours of the masterpieces hosted in foundation and its heritage straight from their collection at www. podcasts to virtual tours, up to videos, playlists, images of the featured works, which include Twitter @GuggenheimPGC the museum and in the alleys of the Real Bosco. homes. The foundation’s website, as well as fondazioneprada.org themed focuses on art, architecture and more, masterpieces by great Italian masters such as >> Check the online collections at >> Check the online collections at the official Facebook, Instagram, Twitter, Vimeo you'll be spoilt for choice. Giotto, Simone Martini, Piero della Francesca, www.guggenheim-venice.it www.museocapodimonte.beniculturali.it
Museo della Scienza e 24 WHERE FLORENCE I SEPTEMBER 2020 www.wheretraveler.com 25 della Tecnologia “Leonardo da Vinci” WHERE NOW | WINE EXPERIENCE
E. Pira & Figli-Chiara Boschis, Barolo
wine takes place on the grape skins in “The grape is Nature, wine is Culture” amphorae. Initially an idea for a few “wine Frank Cornelissen, pioneer of green anarchists”, this has nevertheless launched winegrowing in the Etna area (Sicily) a major movement that has brought natural, biodynamic and organic wines to everybody’s lips. Indeed, today orange > Natural wine: it has not had any legal wines are appreciated by the public at large recognition by the European certifying as the fourth colour of wine with its own bodies. The term groups together many specific identity. winemaking styles inspired by the Today we can say that green wines present naturalness of the process, envisaging the themselves as being of excellent quality, smallest possible number of interventions in produced with the necessary care and the vineyard and the wine cellar, the absence (often) flawlessly. of chemical additives and of handling by man. In Italy there are various associations of There are three main green categories, which producers that are carrying forward the idea it is important to get to know for an aware of a “cleaner” viticulture. purchase, because organic, biodynamic and natural are not synonymous.
> Organic wine: it is governed by European regulation 203 of 2012, which states that every producer of organic wine requires a certificate of compliance that allows the use of the mark or the wording on the label. It refers to the reduction of chemical interventions, both in the vineyard and in the wine cellar, with the limitation of sulphites, the elimination of chemical substances, the reduction of use of water resources and the prohibition of use of genetically modified organisms (GMOs) in Querciabella, Greve in Chianti the vineyard.
et’s go back in history: the very first > Biodynamic wine: in addition to being The “green” revolution organic, biodynamic wines are produced finds indicating wine growing date following the spiritual vision of philosopher CORNELIA G. HASSMÜLLER Organic drinking is now an wine bars solely devoted to back to 7000 years ago and take Certified Wine Expert and Owner us to Georgia, the cradle of wine, Rudolf Steiner and his idea of nature in established tendency, a trend organic, biodynamic or natural equilibrium. Thanks to the phases of the of Milano Wine Affair Board member where amphorae have been found of FISAR Milan Delegation that is constantly growing in wines. In recent years lifestyles with traces of white wine inside moon, it is necessary to keep the land Italy, due both to the demand that are attentive to and them. Mankind gradually refined the method balanced in a natural way with all its Of German origin, but Milanese by adoption Lof producing wine, changing the processes of organisms, with natural interventions and for many years now. With a passion for wine from consumers who are respectful of nature have also production and its nature (and often turning it the use of only biodynamic preparations in her blood, she has found her vocation more sensitive to the themes led to the choosing of products on its head). (natural composts) in given phases of the in Italy. Thanks to her activities, Milano of sustainability and to the with less impact on nature Around 20 years ago a trend of return to year. Although it is not yet recognised at Wine Affair is spreading the culture of wine, legislative level, the Demeter association approaching both companies and visitors to increase in certified organic and with higher quality and the origins began with the rebirth of white wines in the amphora, so-called “Orange regulates the process with the maximum Milan, creating multisensory experiences in land, but also due to the improved production ethics. Wines” (in Friuli-Venezia Giulia, Slovakia and quantities for sulphites, no use of chemicals the form of wine-tasting, events, seminars, and a reduced use of machinery. teambuilding, entertainment and travel increase in the numbers of new BY CORNELIA G. HASSMÜLLER Georgia), where the vinification of white 26 WHERE MILANFLORENCE I JUNE I SEPTEMBER 2020 2020 www.wheretraveler.com 27 WHERE NOW | WINE EXPERIENCE
Veneto Musella - Amarone della Valpolicella Riserva 2015 DOCG Corvina e Corvinone 70%, Rondinella 20%, TOP 10 Oseleta 10% Here is a TOP 10 of different 16% alc., biodynamic red wine products and producers in the www.musella.it “green” sphere, who through experimentation, research and Tuscany a huge amount of work have Querciabella - Querciabella 2016, Chianti succeeded in creating a product Classico DOCG Riserva capable of creating strong Sangiovese 100% inspirations and emotions with 13,5% alc., organic red wine excellent local products - thanks www.querciabella.com to the ever greater sensitivity of people towards authentic Sicily eco-friendly products. Frank Cornelissen - Susucaru Rosso 2018, Terre Siciliane IGP Trentino-South Tyrol Nerello Mascalese 85%, Nerello Capuccio, Minella Nera, Allicante Bouschet, Minella Bianco Pojer & Sandri – Zero Infinito 14,5% alc., organic red wine Solaris 100% (resistant variety) www.frankcornelissen.it 12% alc., organic sparkling wine, pet-nat www.pojeresandri.it Marche Lombardy Pievalta – Curino 2016, Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Passito DOC Barone Pizzini – Animante Extra Brut, Verdicchio 100% Franciacorta DOCG 12,5% alc., biodynamic dessert wine Chardonnay 84%, Pinot noir 12%, www.pievalta.it Pinot blanc 4% 12% alc., organic sparkling wine, traditional method www.baronepizzini.it Do you like this subject? If you’re in Mario Pojer e Fiorentino Sandri Milan, would you like to get to know Liguria Italian wine better, having fun at the Barone Pizzini same time? Cornelia G. Hassmüller Rocche del Gatto – Spigau Senza Tempo 2011 organises wine-tastings, wine games Pigato 100% and tours in the surrounding area. 13.5% alc., natural wine, orange wine Info and contacts www.rocchedelgatto.com [email protected] – www.milanowineaffair.com Friuli-Venezia Giulia Querciabella Damijan Podversic – Malvasia 2015, Venezia Giulia IGT Malvasia Istriana 100% 14,5% alc., natural wine, orange wine www.damijanpodversic.com Pievalta Calabria Ceraudo - Grayasusi Etichetta Argento 2018, Val di Neto Rosato IGT Gaglioppo 100% 13% alc., organic rosé wine www.ceraudo.it
Piedmont E. Pira & Figli Chiara Boschis - Barbera d'Alba Superiore 2017 DOC Barbera 100% 15% alc., organic red wine Frank Cornelissen www.pira-chiaraboschis.com
28 WHERE FLORENCE I SEPTEMBER 2020 www.wheretraveler.com 29 WHERE NOW | HOT DATES WHERE NOW | SHOPPING
TRADITIONAL EVENTS IN FLORENCE ◄ TIFFANY & CO. From the combination of stylised angles 6 JANUARY 1 MAY 26 JULY and sleek lines comes the marvellous purity CAVALCATA DEI MAGI TROFEO MARZOCCO-SBANDIERATORI FESTA DI SANT’ANNA GIFT of the “Tiffany T” collection. This splendid A historical re-enactment of the Epiphany A contest between historical groups of A secular and religious festival held near yellow gold and corniola pendant framed when Three Wise Men brought gifts flag-wavers organized by the “Bandierai the church of Orsanmichele, in which the by sparkling diamonds, with an intense of gold, frankincense and myrrh to the degli Uffizi di Firenze”, which takes place figure of Saint Anne, co-patron saint of the brightness and an extraordinary lustre, Baby Jesus. A celebration that takes in Piazza della Signoria. city, is venerated. GUIDE is very modern. www.tiffany.it place wearing splendid fifteenth-century costumes. THIRD SUNDAY IN MAY 10 AUGUST We’ve compiled a short guide PALIO DEL BALUARDO FESTA DI SAN LORENZO offering ideas for this season. A crossbow shooting competition to It takes place in the morning with a A great opportunity to spend commemorate the birth of the Florentine “Historical Procession of the Florentine some pleasant moments Republic on 16th May 1527, the date when Republic” from the Piazzetta di Parte Guelfa the Medici were expelled from Florence. through the streets of the historic centre to browsing the essential the Basilica di San Lorenzo. In the evening, The competition is held at the Bastione destinations for luxury shopping ► GREVI in Piazza San Lorenzo. known as the Fonte della Ginevra. in the centre of Florence, while A 1920s shape with raised brim enjoying its beauties. and hand-made grosgrain flower trim: this is just one 23 MAY END OF SEPTEMBER ® Where guarantees that you of the models by the historic LA FIORITA BACCO ARTIGIANO won’t leave empty-handed! company that has been working A Florentine tradition celebrating the A traditional Festival of Wine and the since 1875 to create women’s, RITRATTO DI ANNA MARIA LUISA CON I FIORI, OPERA ANTONIO FRANCHI, C. 1682–1683. RITRATTO burning at the stake of Dominican preacher outstanding products of the territory. men’s and children’s collections ANNA MARIA LUISA DE’ MEDICI Concomitant entertainment events are Fra Girolamo Savonarola, a controversial using age-old workmanship also held to mark the occasion. figure in the city’s history. A wreath of techniques implemented by flowers is laid on the plaque dedicated to ▼ BRANDIMARTE highly specialist personnel. 18 FEBRUARY him in Piazza della Signoria, after which From the silver jewellery collection, these www.grevi.it ANNIVERSARY OF THE DEATH OF THE rose petals are thrown into the Arno from silvered, gilded and pink “spring bracelets” ELECTRESS OF THE PALATINATE Ponte Vecchio. are the result of artisan workmanship Celebration of the last heir of the Medici Made in Tuscany. Like silverware for dynasty, Anna Maria Luisa: the presence in the table, jewellery too has the aim of Florence of extraordinary artistic treasures 24 JUNE enabling the noble metal to be used in including the Uffizi Gallery, the Palatine daily life so that its beauty and special Gallery and the Gallery of the Academy FESTA DI SAN GIOVANNI and FINALE DEL characteristics can be appreciated. is all due to her. To mark the occasion, CALCIO STORICO ▼ L’IPPOGRIFO www.brandimarte.com some municipal museums allow access A contest that has taken place in Piazza SHUTTERSTOCK.COM The charm and tradition of a free of charge. Santa Croce for 600 years on the day of unique art that can only be found St. John the Baptist, the patron saint of in the shops and laboratories the city. Highly competitive, it combines PHOTO © of the Oltrarno: “Ponte Vecchio 25 MARCH football, rugby and wrestling and is held as FESTA DI SAN LORENZO seen from the rooftops” uses the the culmination of a tournament between CAPODANNO FIORENTINO etching technique, which enables teams from the city’s neighbourhoods: The Florentine “Old New Year”, celebrated original limited edition numbered White from Santo Spirito, Red from Santa 8 OCTOBER since before the advent of the Gregorian graphic works to be created, from Maria Novella, Green from San Giovanni Calendar (1582), with a parade through FESTA DI SANTA REPARATA etching to printing. and Blue from Santa Croce. the central streets of the city in historical At Santa Maria del Fiore each year the www.ippogrifostampedarte.com costumes. ceremony is held of the offering of candles in the crypt. According to the legend it was thanks to the miraculous intercession EASTER of Saint Reparata that the Florentines succeeded in repelling the siege of the SCOPPIO DEL CARRO Ostrogoths in 406 AD, an event that marked ▲ SAVINI TARTUFI A popular secular and religious the triumph of Christianity in Florence. “Il Tartufato” is part of a line tradition that dates back to the time of packs designed to give of the Crusades. A procession with (and give yourself ) inviting truffle percussionists and flag-wavers in END OF DECEMBER historical costumes, city officials products as gifts. Included in this and representatives of the clergy, FESTA DEGLI OMAGGI composition are Peschiole with accompanies a cart with a pyrotechnic An ancient folkloristic event in which the summer truffle, Tagliolini with truffle, tower from the church of SS. Apostoli “Procession of the Florentine Republic” Cream with Parmigiano Reggiano to Santa Maria del Fiore, where it is addresses the civil and religious authorities cheese and truffle, Butter with set alight. BACCO ARTIGIANO to wish them good luck during the festivities. summer truffle and Cream of fig, honey and truffle. www.savinitartufi.it
30 WHERE FLORENCE I SEPTEMBER 2020 www.wheretraveler.com 31 SHOPPING FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHEREITALIA.COM/FLORENCE CLOTHING & Aspesi W The Guidelines M The cult brand, created in 1969 by fashion veteran H E O MAP LOCATIONS Note that references in bold R . C ACCESSORIES Alberto Aspesi, features quirky, tailored lines, E T R R A V E L E at the end of each listing (A1, B5 etc.) refer to the elegant details and natural materials. His current coordinates on the street map (pages 58-59). Angela Caputi Giuggiù collections are still based on the original “no frills”
The boutique offers an extraordinary selection philosophy and will appeal to all those who like their SHOPPING of clothing items for every type of woman. In outerwear without flashy labels. www.aspesi.com. This directory, grouped by category, is a list of addition, hats, bags and other accessories from Women. Open Mon-Fri 10am-2pm/3pm-7pm; Sat establishments recommended by the editors all over the world enrich these collections. Stylist 10am-7pm; Sun 3pm-7pm. Via di Porta Rossa, 85/r. of Where magazine and includes regular and designer Angela Caputi chooses these articles T: 055 287987. Men. Open Mon-Fri 10am-2pm/3pm- advertisers. Based on statistical evidence, the personally to combine with and complete her 7pm; Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 3pm-7pm. Via Porta Rossa, most popular luxury brands are grouped under exclusive resin jewellery with its unique, elegant 51/r. T: 055 287931. Map E4 the separate category “Top Brands”, which design. www.angelacaputi.com. Open Mon-Sat be found on page 22. Several unusual shops, 10am-1pm/3.30pm-7.30pm. Borgo SS. Apostoli, Brunello Cucinelli stocking items and rarities for collectors or 44-46/r. T: 055 292993. Map E4 The world of Brunello Cucinelli can be summed aficionados in specific product categories, are up as a compendium of art, traditions and Italian Anichini listed under “Passion Shopping” rather than in craftsmanship. The brand, which came about in CHILDREN A traditional tailor’s shop for children the standard shopping sections. Umbria forty years ago from an idea by founder where skilled artisan hands create elegant items Visitors should note that VAT is 22% and it is Brunello Cucinelli, represents excellence in the for newborns, children and youngsters using the generally included in the price of goods. production of high-quality cashmere knitwear best Italian fabrics. For each model it is possible and today boasts top-level production with total to vary the choice of fabrics, colours and details. TAX-FREE SHOPPING look men’s and women’s collections. Today it is A century-old workshop of hand-crafting culture, » By law, non-EU residents are entitled to seen as a model enterprise all over the world for its located in 15th-century Palazzo Ricasoli. www. reclaim the VAT paid on items purchased support for the dignity of work and craftsmanship, anichini.net. Open Mon 3.30pm-7pm; Tues-Sat and exported from the EU: before finalizing defining itself as “a humanistic company”. 9.30am-1.30pm/3.30pm-7.30pm. Via del Parione, a purchase, they should ask the shop assistant www.brunellocucinelli.com. Open daily 10am-7pm. 59/r. T: 055 284977. Map D3 whether they are eligible for a tax refund. Via dei Pecori, 16/r. T: 055 285832. Map F3
Shopping hours are generally from 10am to 7pm; less centrally located shops still take the traditional lunch break. Most shops are closed on Sundays (except those located in central Florence) and on Monday mornings. Ask your Concierge.
DINING Reservations for most restaurants are strongly advised. In Italy, service is included in the price meaning that although tipping is not
EGON IPSE compulsory, it is obviously appreciated as a sign of satisfaction. Some menus include the word “coperto”, a small surcharge corresponding to the cost of the service and bread. Although no PHOTOS © dress code exists in Italy, semiformal clothing is usually considered de rigeur at restaurants. All restaurants and bars are non-smoking unless a separate smokers’ area is specifically offered. Set meals: prices are per person and usually refer to a 3-course meal (beverages excluded). Glasses with retro charm € = 30€ or less / €€ = 31-50€ / €€€ = 51-100€ / €€€€ = 101-150€ / €€€€€ = 150€ and above. A little gem for vintage glasses enthusiasts, but also for lovers of models with contemporary designs created using quality materials such as leather, precious metals, gemstones, horn and wood. By Chiara Zaccarelli SIGHTSEEING Several places like the Duomo, Ponte Vecchio or Piazza della Signoria are symbols of Florence, hence our decision to list them under a ot far from the Fortezza da Basso aesthetics and visual functionality. Each pair, >> www.anticaocchialeria.com separate category. The information provided and the Museum of San Marco, yet created using high-quality hand-finished Via San Gallo, 130/r-134/r on museums and monuments is verified as Il Bisonte, timeless appeal away from the crowds of tourists in materials fully respecting the tradition of T: 055 473055. Off Map meticulously as possible. However, data such as Enter the Il Bisonte boutique in Palazzo Corsini on the Lungarno to discover a world N telephone numbers, opening hours, prices and the historic centre, the Antica Occhialeria products “Made in Italy”, is inspired by the dedicated to style and craftsmanship. Since 1970, the Florentine brand of leather goods the accessibility of sites are all subject to retains its charm as an authentic location fully huge historical collection to which the change, on a seasonal basis and also due to and accessories founded by Wanny Di Filippo has been distinguished by the originality of intact. This historic shop, with its interiors in Di Nardo family and their collaborators are restoration work, museum loans or changes its creations, handcrafted by skilled artisans using high-quality materials such as cowhide, which dark red tones predominate, in contrast lucky enough to have access. The models, of management. Ask your concierge leather and all-natural vegetable-tanned leather. In addition to bearing the Made in Italy with the pale wood furniture and finishes, in fact, maintain a characteristic and ENTERTAINMENT merchandise mark, Il Bisonte’s bags, document holders, suitcases, travel accessories and with its vintage objects and bygone models fascinating retro style, though also standing Several venues offering food are included in small leather goods share the same attention to detail, as regards both their design and of glasses, so entering it is like taking a leap out on account of the extreme particularity this section. These are considered as meeting the various stages involved in the production process. From leather cutting to splitting and back in time. It was 1956, in fact, when Lucio of their design and the use of different, places rather than gourmet addresses and thus hand-sewn details, each stage of the process is carried out following methods handed down explain our decision to list them here rather Enrico Di Nardo, an expert collector and art even unusual materials, such as wood, horn, from generation to generation like a precious artwork to be safeguarded. The use of natural than under “Dining”. lover, began his activity as an optician. More hide, leather and 18kt gold. The Antica materials guarantees the uniqueness of each product, a characteristic that has always been than 60 years later, the Antica Occhialeria is an Occhialeria also has a vast selection of All details are correct at the time of going to dear to Il Bisonte. Using a traditional Tuscan process of vegetable tanning, an Il Bisonte bag press but several details can change: ask your artisan concern that is favoured by numerous authentic vintage glasses and designs only improves with time, embracing the unique qualities impressed on it with each wear. concierge to double-check all information. connoisseurs and lovers of the genre, with and manufactures exclusive made-to- www.ilbisonte.com. Via del Parione, 31-33/r. T: 055 215722. Map E4 a production capable of combining measure models.
32 WHERE FLORENCE I SEPTEMBER 2020 www.wheretraveler.com 33 [ FASHION DESIGNERS ] Top Brands
ALBERTA FERRETTI CARTIER— www.cartier.it. Open LOUIS VUITTON—www.louisvuitton.com. PHILOSOPHY— Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 11am-7pm. Cat-eye sunglasses by MAX MARA with Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30; Sun 11am-7.30pm. www.albertaferretti.com. Via degli Strozzi, 36/r. T: 055 292347. Map E4 ultra-light acetate frame. A bold, feminine design, Piazza degli Strozzi, 10/r. T: 055 266981. c/o Spazio A. inspired by the Punk allure of the late ‘80s. Map E3 Open daily 10am-7pm. Via CHANEL—www.chanel.com. Porta Rossa, 107/r. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. Piazza della MAX MARA—it.maxmara.com. GIORGIO ARMANI—www.armani.com T: 055 212995. Map E4 Signoria, 10. T: 055 2989699. Map F4. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 11am-7pm. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 10am- Fragrance & Beauty. Open Mon-Sat 10am- Via de’ Tornabuoni, 66-68-70/r. 2pm/3pm-7pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 83/r. ASPESI—www.aspesi.com. 7pm; Sun 11am-7pm. Via dei Calzaiuoli, T: 055 214133. Map E3 • Open Mon-Sat 10am- T: 055 219041. Map E3 Women. Open Mon-Fri 10am- 47-49/r. T: 055 298181. Map F3 7.30; Sun 11am-7pm. Via de’ Pecori, 23/r. 2pm/3pm-7pm; Sat 10am-7pm; T: 055 287761. Map F3 GUCCI—www.gucci.com. Open Mon-Sat Sun 3pm-7pm. Via di Porta CHOPARD— www.chopard.com. 10am-7.30pm; Sun 10am-7pm. Via de’ Rossa, 85. T: 055 287987. Men Open Mon-Sat 10.30am-7pm; MICHAEL KORS—www.michaelkors.it. Tornabuoni, 73-81/r. T: 055 264011. Map E3 • Open Mon-Fri 10am-2pm/3pm- Sun 11.30am-7pm. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30; Duomo. Open daily 10-19. Via Roma, 32/r. 7pm; Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 3pm- Via de’ Tornabuoni, 30-32/r. T: 055 Sun 10.30am-7.30pm. Pink gold, mother-of-pearl and diamonds: from T: 055 75923803. Map F3 • Garden. Open 7pm. Via di Porta Rossa, 51/r. 2670157. Map E4 Piazza della Repubblica, 43. the “D.Side” collection by DAMIANI, this necklace is daily 10-19.30. Piazza della Signoria, 10. T: 055 287931. Map E4 T: 055 290284. Map F3 hand-made with the utmost care devoted to the details. DAMIANI— www.damiani.com. T: 055 75927010. Map F4 BALENCIAGA— Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 11am-7pm. MISSONI—www.misson.com. HERMÈS—www.hermes.com. www.balenciaga.com. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 7/r. T: 055 290208. Open daily 10am-7pm. Via Porta Rossa, Open Mon-Sat 10.15am-7pm. Piazza degli Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. Map E3 77-79/r. T: 055 215774. Map F4 Antinori, 6/r. T: 055 2381004. Map E3 Piazza Santa Trinita, 1/r. STEFANO RICCI—www.stefanoricci.com. T: 055 9040090. Map E4 DIOR— www.dior.com. MIU MIU—www.miumiu.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. Women. Open daily 10am-7pm. Open Mon-Sat 10.30am-7.30; Palazzo Tornabuoni - Via dei Pescioni, 1. BOGGI MILANO— Via de’ Tornabuoni, 15/r. Sun 10am-7pm. Via Roma, 8/r. T: 055 210856. Map F3 www.boggi.com. T: 055 2669101. Map E3 T: 055 2608931. Map F3 Open Mon 3pm-7.30pm; SWAROVSKI—www.swarovski.com. Tues-Sat 10am-7.30pm; DOLCE&GABBANA—www.dolcegabbana.it MONCLER—www.moncler.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am-8pm; Sun 10am- Sun 10.30am-1.30pm/3pm- Open daily 10.30am-7.30pm. Via degli Strozzi, Open Mon-Sat 10am-7; Sun 11am-7pm. 7.30pm. Via dei Calzaiuoli, 43/r. 12-18/r. T: 055 281003. Map E4. Baby. Open Via degli Strozzi, 3/r. T: 055 2657583. T: 055 216227. Map F3 7.30pm. Via della Vigna Nuova, 27/r. daily 10.30am-7.30pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni, Map E3 18/r. T: 055 2399909. Map E4 TOD’S—www.tods.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am- T: 055 219179. Map E3 MONTBLANC—www.montblanc.com. 7.30pm; Sun 2pm-7pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni, BORSALINO— EMILIO PUCCI—www.emiliopucci.com Open Mon-Sat 10am-7. 60/r. T: 055 219423. Map E3 www.borsalino.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 11am-7pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 63/r. T: 055 292050. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 20-22/r. T: 055 2658082. Map E3 VALENTINO—www.valentino.com. Via Porta Rossa, 40/r. Map E4 Women. Open daily 10am-7pm. POMELLATO—www. pomellato.com. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 23/r. T: 055 293142. T: 055 218275. Map F4 ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA—www.zegna.it Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 1pm-7pm. Map E4 BOTTEGA VENETA—www.bottegaveneta.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Via de’ Tornabuoni, 89-91/r. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 2pm-7pm. Sun 10.30am-7pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 3/r. T: 055 288539. Map E3 Via degli Strozzi, 6n. T: 055 284735. Map E3 T: 055 264254. Map E3 PRADA—www. prada.com. BRUNELLO CUCINELLI— ETRO—www.etro.com. Open daily 10am-7pm. Via Roma, 27/r. www.brunellocucinelli.com. Open daily Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 2pm-7pm. T: 055 286035. • Open daily 10am-7pm. Polished calfskin with rounded flap, 10am-7pm. Via dei Pecori, 16/r. Palazzo Rucellai-via della Vigna Nuova, 50/r. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 53-67/r. BRUNELLO CUCINELLI interprets T: 055 285832. Map F3 T: 055 2670086. Map D3 T: 055 267471 Map E3 the backpack in a modern, sophisticated style. BULGARI—www.bulgari.com. Open daily FENDI—www.fendi.com. Open Mon-Sat SAINT LAURENT—www.ysl.com. 10am-7.30pm. Via de’Tornabuoni, 56/r. 10am-7.30pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 40/r. HOGAN—www.hogan.com. Open daily 10am-7pm. T: 055 2396786. Map E4 T: 055 212305 Map E3 Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Via de’ Tornabuoni, 4-45/r. Sun 2pm-7pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 97/r. T: 055 9040100. Map E3 FURLA—www.furla.com. BURBERRY—it.burberry.com. T: 055 2741013. Map E3 Open daily 10.30am-7.30pm. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 11am-7.30. SALVATORE FERRAGAMO— Via de’Tornabuoni, 29/r. Via de’ Calzaiuoli, 10/r (corner of piazza della HUGO BOSS—www.hugoboss.com. www.ferragamo.com. Open daily T: 055 293811. Map E4 Signoria). T: 055 2382883. Map F4 Open daily 10.30am-7.30pm. 10am-7pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 4-14/r. Via Por Santa Maria, 70-72/r. T: 055 292123. Map E4 T: 055 294909. Map F4
One of the delightful outfits for this season proposed by CHANEL: ecru tweed and multicolour LORO PIANA—www.loropiana.com. Practical and elegant, the FURLA timepiece from the “Giada” line has a 33mm dress on white silk georgette top, pale grey suede and black grosgrain shoes. To complete Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 11am-7pm. round silvered metal case with smooth leather strap, available in the colours the look, a metal, strass, gold and crystal glass necklace. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 34-36/r. Sand, Violet, Onyx. The accessory is embellished with the Furla logo inside the dial. T: 055 2398688. Map E4
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reference for luxury shopping and for new brands, www.alessandrodari.com. Open Mon-Sat 10.30am- in full accordance with the best Italian tradition and exclusive products and the unveiling of innovations. 7.30pm; Sun 11am-7.30pm. Via San Niccolò, 115/r. T: admired throughout the world. www.damiani.com. www.rinascente.it. Open Mon-Sat 9am-9pm; Sun 055 244747. Map G6 Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 11am-7pm. Via de’ 10.30am-8.30pm. Piazza della Repubblica. T: 055 Tornabuoni, 7/r. T: 055 290208. 219113. Map F3 Angela Caputi Giuggiù Map E4 COSTUME JEWELLERY The brand is renowned throughout the world. Sophisticated, original Dodo FINE ART creations made from unusual materials such as The gold Dodo jewellery line, created in 1995 by Abacus plastic and resin, combined to create unique objects Pomellato, is by now a classic either for gift or BINDERY A workshop producing precious both in terms of colour and shape. Her creations collection purposes. It sells an array of animal charm have been used as accessories by famous television pieces, each of which has a particular meaning. bindings. The raw materials, such as “Acid Free” paper, From IL BISONTE’s spring-summer 2020 100% cotton or leather with vegetable tanning and film producers. The accessory as a focal point, www.dodo.it. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun collection, this woman’s crossbody bag or hand-dyed using ancient methods and natural capable of creating a look or dressing up any type 11.30am-7pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 39-41/r. T: 055 “Salina” in cowhide leather (milk/mint colour) waxes, are all selected with care. All the phases are of garment. A magical blend of contemporary and 2741573. Map E4 supervised in the workshop: from the folding of evokes a joyful lifestyle. classical taste. www.angelacaputi.com. Shop and Fani Gioielli the sheets by hand to the delicate phase of hand workshop: Open Tues-Sat 10am-1pm/3.30pm- Starting out as a family-run shop over 50 years ago, stitching, to the application of the cover using 7.30pm. Via S. Spirito, 58/r. T: 055 212972. Map D4 Fani Gioielli is now an established fine jewellery various styles. www.abacusfirenze.com. Open Mon 7pm; Sun 10am-6pm. Via C. Cavour, 49/r. T: 055 • Boutique: Open Mon-Sat 10am-1pm/3.30pm- and luxury watchmaking firm, with two points of 2.30pm-7.30pm; Tues-Sat 9.30am-7.30pm. Via dei 6499151. Map G1 7.30pm. Borgo SS. Apostoli, 44-46/r. T: 055 292993. sale, in Florence and Siena. An extensive range of OFFICINA PROFUMO-FARMACEUTICA Macci, 50 (Santa Croce district). T: 345 3280318. Map Map F4 Pitti Mosaici prestigious jewellery brands, including Pomellato, DI SANTA MARIA NOVELLA ANTICO SETIFICIO L4 Dodo and Vhernier; it is also an official Rolex See page 39. FIORENTINO See this page. Since the early 1980s this studio right opposite Annamaria Cammilli Antico Setificio Fiorentino Palazzo Pitti keeps alive the ancient Florentine A Florentine brand of reference in design jewellery, and Tudor retailer. www.fanishops.it. Open Mon The Antico Setificio Fiorentino is the heir to a great tradition of marquetry with marble, hard and it has been present with its creations in shop 3pm-7pm; Tues-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 3pm-7pm. Via tradition of Renaissance textile art and history, semi-precious stones. Unique hand-made items windows and display cases all over the world for de’Tornabuoni, 72/r. T: 055 212075. Map E3 Elena Mirò 9am-9pm; Sun 10.30am-8.30pm c/o Rinascente- thanks also to its famous warping machine based to provide coverings for walls, framed items and over 30 years and is synonymous with a unique, Massai Orafi An Italian prêt-à-porter brand dedicated to curvy Piazza della Repubblica. T: 055 219113. Map F3 on a design by Leonardo da Vinci. Since 1786 the furnishings recalling the atmospheres and style unmistakable Italian style. Attention to detail for Founded in 1950 by Florentine master goldsmith women, for over 30 years Elena Mirò has been workshop has been producing some of the most of the Renaissance. Today the art studio creates rings, necklaces, bracelets and brooches, often Société Anonyme Franco Massai, it boasts over 60 years in the field of synonymous with perfect-fit clothing items that sumptuous silk brocades, damask, taffeta, and entire made-to-measure residential projects all over drawing inspiration from nature and the floral world. An independent shop of North-European Florentine fine goldsmithery. With the techniques of enhance every woman’s look with a contemporary, lampas in the world, 100% made in Italy. www. the world. www.pittimosaici.com. Open Mon-Sat www.annamariacammilli.com. Open Mon 3pm-7pm; conception inspired by the underground the past it produces unique, rigorously hand-made refined and ever new style. From dresses to anticosetificiofiorentino.com. Open Mon-Fri 10am-7pm; Sun 11am-8pm. Piazza de’ Pitti, 23/24. T: Tues-Sat 11am-7pm; Sun 3pm-7pm. Via Vacchereccia, atmospheres of the hot-lazy neighbourhoods of pieces and is a point of reference for Florentines outerwear, from trousers to accessories, to 10am-6pm (by appointment only). Via L. Bartolini, 4. 055 282127. Map E6 12/r. T: 055 2608617. Map F4 London, Berlin and New York (the name is a homage and others besides. EDITOR’S TIP A visit to the beachwear, the brand expresses the pleasure T: 055 213861. Map B3 to Marcel Duchamp and Peggy Guggenheim, who Torchio (Il) Aprosio workshop is a unique experience: on the top floor of dressing a woman’s shape with style. www. founded an avant-garde art gallery in New York Galleria Romanelli Inspired by the ancient Florentine hand crafting Aprosio came about as a workshop in 1993 and of a 16th-century tower house, for over 200 years elenamiro.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; called Société Anonyme in the 1920s). Located The Galleria Romanelli has been handing down tradition, Il Torchio creates bookbinding products creates jewellery accessories and products for master goldsmiths have practised the ancient Sun 11am-7.30pm. Via dei Tosinghi, 8/r. T: 055 in the literary artistic district of Sant’Ambrogio, precious sculpture artwork for six generations in with refined materials such as Florentine leather, decorating interiors, with glass beads from Murano fretworking, carving and engraving traditions typical 2657725. Map F3 it offers labels of international renown and niche one of the most picturesque neighbourhoods of hand-marbled paper and coloured cloths, also and Bohemia crystal glass. www.aprosio.it. Open of the Florentine goldsmithery art. www.massaiorafi. Giovanni Raspini brands, as well as its own men’s and women’s Florence, Borgo San Frediano. An artistic workshop, devising new artisan articles with contemporary Mon-Sat 10.30am-7pm. Via del Moro 75-77/r, 12/r. T: it. Open Mon-Fri 9am-1pm/3pm-7.30pm. Via delle In the beating heart of the fashion district, the collection that is only sold in-store and online. www. a meeting place for buyers and artists, where materials and techniques. www.legatoriailtorchio. 055 210127. Map E2 Terme, 13. boutique of the Tuscan jewellery brand based in societeanonyme.it. Open Mon 3.30pm-7.30pm; sculptors and their students carry out their work com.Open Mon-Fri 10am-1.30pm/2.30pm-7pm; Sat T: 055 294800. Map F4
Valdichiana (between Siena, Arezzo and Florence) is Tues-Sat 10am-7.30pm. Via G.B. Niccolini, 3/f corner daily surrounded by the ancient tools of the trade. 10am-1pm. Via de’ Bardi, 17. T: 055 2342862. Map Cassetti 1926 In the spectacular context of Ponte Vecchio, the Officine Panerai a genuine concept store that boasts a personalized of via della Mattonaia, 24/a/b/c/d. (Sant’Ambrogio Work is done by commission on original sculptures, G6 layout design where a 15th-century tapestry stands District).T: 055 3860084. Map L3 chalk replicas, bronze and Carrara marble and Cassetti multibrand boutique is known for both Situated in the centre of Florence, birthplace of restorations. www.raffaelloromanelli.com. Open fine watchmaking and haute joaillerie, and has a the fine watchmaking trade, this historic boutique out. Fine jewellery - with a unique personality, often Stefano Ricci Mon-Fri 10am-1pm/2pm-6pm. Borgo San Frediano, JEWELLERY & WATCHES studio that develops innovative projects with its own boasts a unique design and a strong identity that animal-themed, sometimes oversized or limited Tailoring and Italian tradition “Made in Florence”, 70. T: 055 2396047.Map C4 artisan collection. www.cassetti.it. Open daily 10am- Spanish designer Patricia Urquiola has enhanced edition - silverware, objects for the home, hand- with the purest male elegance as the watchword. Alessandro Dari th 7pm. Ponte Vecchio, 54/r. T: 055 287361. Map F5 by working with the idea of the “art workshop”. A crafted white bronze creations, always having a style These, in short, are the values of the company UNIQUE Housed in the 15 -century Palazzo Nasi- Leone Cei & Sons space on the first floor is devoted to special sales that is midway between minimalism and classicism founded in 1972 by Stefano Ricci and his wife Quaratesi, the “Museum Shop” of master goldsmith Since 1902, an exceptional firm specializing in Damiani and another is reserved for periodic exhibitions of as the common denominator. From the design to Claudia, which, now in its second generation, has Alessandro Dari has an area used to exhibit his dressing tables, appliqués, consuls, chairs and Master craftsmen since 1924, Damiani has a watches from the historical Museum; on the ground the wax model to “lost-wax” casting, to diamond- become a successful international group. From precious works and another used as an artistic armchairs faithfully reproduced from antique long goldsmithing tradition which it has always floor, a watchmaker is at customers’ disposal to setting, each piece is entirely hand worked. Open clothing (jackets, suits and high-fashion sports workshop where jewellery and decorative objects models from a rare and abundant archive. The interpreted with innovative spirit. Line purity, a carry out repairs and share his passion with Panerai daily 10am-9pm. www.giovanniraspini.com. Via items, but also shirts and ties) to jewellery, from are developed, including one-off items and themed production, entirely made in Florence, is destined refined, elegant classic as well as contemporary enthusiasts. www.panerai.com. Open Mon-Sat Porta Rossa, 82/r. T: 055 2741501. Map E4 leatherwear to perfumes and the SR Home and collections. Some of his works are displayed at the for private homes, hotels and private clubs all over spirit, are the distinctive values of Damiani jewellery. 10am-7pm; Sun 11am-7pm. Piazza San Giovanni, 14/r. SR Junior collections, Stefano Ricci represents nearby Treasury of the Grand Dukes in Palazzo Pitti. Luisaviaroma the world. The carving, gilding, burnishing and Their collections are realized by master goldsmiths T: 055 9040013. Map F2 MULTIBRAND STORE Founded in the early Italian excellence all over the world, making lacquering work is performed rigorously by hand 1930s by Luisa Jaquin, today Luisaviaroma is a production entirely hand-made by qualified Italian following traditional procedures and using natural landmark for lovers of fashion and luxury the world craftsmen its strong point. Faithful to the values products and pigmentations. A huge department is over. A global powerhouse of e-commerce with 5 of the manufacturing tradition and the roots of dedicated to fabrics for furnishings, with a collection million visitors a month, its Florence store also offers the territory, in 2010 the firm acquired the Antico of fabrics still produced on ancient looms or limited ANGELA CAPUTI GIUGGIÙ a digitalized purchasing experience: instead of Setificio Fiorentino, a historic silk factory in the San editions, or produced on request and based on In the centre of Florence, in an old 17th-century building displaying the garments, they have been replaced Frediano district that has produced precious fabrics customers’ designs. Qualified consultancy service known as “Palazzetto Medici”, a few steps from the with interactive installations. Don’t miss the elegant since 1786 and today still uses the original ancient provided on antiques and on the reproduction of Ponte Vecchio, are the boutique and the creative heart hand looms. www.stefanoricci.com. Open Mon-Sat terrace designed by Patricia Urquiola. Open Mon- period items. www.leonecei.com. Headquarters & of Florentine designer Angela Caputi’s brand Giuggiù. 10am-7pm. Palazzo Tornabuoni-Via dei Pescioni, 1. Showroom: Via dei Federighi, 15. T: 055 2381870. Sat 10.30am-7.30pm; Sun 11am-7.30pm. www. Her imaginative plastic jewellery items, much loved by luisaviaroma.com. Via Roma, 19-21/r. T: 055 9064116. T: 055 210856. Map E3 Map D3 • Antiques: Via dei Fossi, 47/r. T: 055 2396039. Map D3 international customers, are genuinely unique pieces Map F3 of fine craftsmanship. In the Borgo SS. Apostoli boutique Marina Rinaldi DEPARTMENT STORES Papiro (Il) it is also possible to purchase a selection of clothing items Renowned for its tasteful, plus-size apparel for Rinascente Established in 1976 in Florence, Il Papiro produces and accessories that complete the brand’s collections. fashionable women, Marina Rinaldi offers a wide In the heart of the city, Rinascente is the ideal place objects drawing their inspiration from the Florentine range of collections, featuring both contemporary to discover the best of fashion, accessories, beauty, tradition of marbled paper (diaries, address books, www.angelacaputi.com and classic lines that are updated on a seasonal home and design items. For women, proposals photo albums, articles for the desk) in addition Borgo SS. Apostoli, 44/46. T: 055 292993. Map F4 to a line of classic leather accessories. www. basis. These include dresses, jackets, coats, bags of the best Italian and international brands range Via S. Spirito, 58/r. T: 055 212972. Map D4 and accessories for a total look that exudes class from the classic to the contemporary and for men ilpapirofirenze.eu. Open Mon-Sat 10am-1pm/2pm- and elegance. it.marinarinaldi.com. Open Mon-Sat from formal to smart casual. Rinascente is a point of
36 WHERE FLORENCE I SEPTEMBER 2020 www.wheretraveler.com 37 SHOPPING SHOPPING
10am-1.30pm/3.30pm-7.30pm; Sat 10am-7.30pm. attire both for men and women, but also coats, shirts Santa Trinita hosts the “Ferragamo’s Creations” LEATHER Borgo La Croce, 44/r. T: 055 241748. and bridal gowns. vallitessuti.com. Open Mon 3pm- corner with the exclusive footwear line that revisits Map l3 7pm; Tues-Sat 10am-7pm. Via della Vigna Nuova, some of the brand’s iconic models. www.ferragamo. Cuoieria Fiorentina 81/r. T: 055 282485. Map D3 com. Open daily 10am-7.30pm. Palazzo Spini Feroni- Tax Free From the famous ancient hand-crafting tradition of La Ménagère Via de’ Tornabuoni, 4/r. T: 055 292123. Map E4 the Florentine “pellai” [leather craftsmen], typical CONCEPT STORE A delightful concept store of Refund Guide of this area of Tuscany, here unique, inimitable around 1500 square metres that includes a shop with SHOES UGG products are created with extreme care and top- design objects for the home, a florist’s, in addition First single-brand boutique in Italy of the Californian Aquazzura quality natural materials. A vast range of leather to a restaurant and a bistro. Located right in the city lifestyle brand specialising in footwear. A brightly 1. VAT (in Italian: IVA) is a value added tax on goods Created in Florence in 2011 and inspired by the handbags, travel bags and accessories (belts, centre, in the space that was once occupied by the lit space with colours and themes taking up the and services, and is part of the European Union’s luxury hand-crafting tradition, the brand combines a wallets, briefcases…), for him and for her, offering first Florentine household item shop, which opened decorative elements of the UGG 2019 campaign, in value added tax system. typically European refined aesthetic sensibility with excellent value for money. Another strong point is in 1896, it combines industrial and recycled materials the heart of historic piazza della Repubblica. Inside, 2. modern Latin American elegance. Aquazzura shoes In some cases, travellers may be granted a the personalization of the products, organised to and design objects for a contemporary result with a the more traditional models stands alonside new have been worn by trendsetters, Hollywood stars, VAT refund. This refund does not cover the services satisfy the tastes and requirements of customers, romantic touch. www.lamenagere.it. Open daily 7am- footwear. www. ugg.com. Open 3pm-7.30pm: Tues- European royalty and fashion insiders around the supplied by hotels, restaurants, taxis or agencies. who can count Michelle Obama among their 2am. Via de’ Ginori 8/r. T: 055 0750600. Map F1 Sat 10-30am-7.30pm; Sun 11.30am-7.30pm. Piazza globe. www.aquazzura.com. Open daily 10am-7pm. number. www.cuoieriafiorentina.it. Open Mon-Sat della Repubblica, 30/r. T: 055 0945430. Map F3 3. You may be eligible for a VAT refund provided that: Palazzo Corsini-Lungarno Corsini, 42. T: 055 291242. 9am-1pm/3.30pm-7.30pm. Via de’ Nicola, 11. T: 055 Marioluca Giusti • you are a non-EU resident; Map D4 6505091. Off Map A Florentine Maison producing practical, elegant • the goods purchased are intended for personal or design objects for the table and more besides, in a STATIONERY Salvatore Ferragamo family use only and are carried in your luggage; Gianni Chiarini style between fusion and pop. Its synthetic crystal Situated in Florence’s main street for shopping, Pineider Established in the 1990s, this brand is the expression glass and melamine collections are enhanced every • the overall value of the goods purchased exceeds SOCIÉTÉ ANONYME inside the medieval Palazzo Spini Feroni (the Artisan savoir faire since 1774 in the universe of of ancient artisan wisdom in the creation of year with new models with colour shades ranging 154,94 Euro (VAT included); See page 36. company’s historic workshop since 1938 and the paper, writing and leather goods. Tradition and contemporary bags and accessories, with an idea from white to black to transparent, to brighter • the purchase is certified by an invoice. This invoice site of the Salvatore Ferragamo Museum), the design are the distinctive features of this brand, of pure design. A fresh, modern and cosmopolitan colours such as fluo. Its products are particularly Ferragamo boutique hosts all its fashion men’s, which is unique worldwide: from the printing of should include a description of the goods purchased, brand, but at the same time sophisticated, which appreciated by important international personalities women’s, accessories and perfume collections. precious and embossed paper to articles made of your personal information as well as the details of Rolex Boutique-Cassetti 1926 has its roots in the heart of Florentine beauty. such as the Princes of Monaco, King Mohammed The brand represents Italian quality, contemporary fine leather, to elegant writing instruments created your passport or any other equivalent document; In the unique and exclusive setting that is Ponte giannichiarini.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; VI of Morocco, Steven Spielberg, Valentino and the elegance, innovation and tradition. The boutique in the Tuscan workshops, Pineider products have Vecchio, the Rolex boutique has three storeys: Sun 2pm-7pm. Via della Vigna Nuova, 52/r. T: 055 Missoni family. Its boutiques are characterized by • the goods leave EU territory by the end of the occupies the entire ground floor of the building, endless possibilities of personalisation. www. the ground floor is dedicated to sales, with three 2654306. Map D3 total white walls with niches where the accessories third month after the month that you bought them; inside large spaces decorated with 18th-century pineider.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. Piazza de’ display tables; the first floor has two rooms for are exhibited, as in a museum. It has several sites Rucellai, 4-7/r. T: 055 284656. Map E3 • several specific customs formalities are Il Bisonte frescoes. The wing of the store that faces onto Piazza reserved sales; the second floor has a fully equipped in Florence: Por Santa Maria, 16/r (open daily 11am- complied with; Florentine leather goods brand Il Bisonte came customer care centre, where qualified Rolex 7pm); Via della Spada, 16-20 (Open Mon-Sat 10am- returned to the Italian retailer about in 1970 thanks to Wanny Di Filippo’s passion • the invoice is technicians are available to look after the precious 1.30pm/2pm-7.30pm; Sun 11am-7.30pm). Flagship for leather objects. Housed in the boutique in within four months after the purchase was made. timepieces. www.cassetti.it. Open daily 10am-7pm. Store: Via della Vigna Nuova 88/r. Open daily 10am- Palazzo Corsini on the Lungarno are its beautifully 4. The goods purchased and the relevant invoice must Ponte Vecchio, 29/r. T: 055 2741044. Map F5 7.30pm. T: 055 2399527. Map D3 hand-crafted bags, travel bags, briefcases, wallets, shown at the customs be exit point when leaving Tiffany & Co. diaries, belts and other accessories epitomising Officina Profumo-Farmaceutica EU territory (if you intend to pack the purchased items Located in the luxury shopping street par the best of Tuscan workmanship. The brand’s key di Santa Maria Novella into your check-in luggage, you must go to Customs excellence, the Tiffany & Co. boutique is housed in focus is on materials, including its iconic cowhide: UNIQUE The oldest historical pharmacy in BEFORE checking in). one of the most beautiful Palazzi in the city. There a natural, highly sought-after vegetable tanned Europe (established in 1221), the Officina Profumo- 5. After leaving EU territory, the traveller must return is plenty of space inside for gold and silver fashion leather which has the advantage of improving with Farmaceutica is housed in a part of the Dominican collections, such as ’Tiffany City HardWear’ and age. www.ilbisonte.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm: the original invoice, regularly endorsed by the convent complex of Santa Maria Novella and has ’Tiffany T’, jewels with purest diamonds, the iconic Sun 11.30am-6.30pm. Via del Parione, 31-33/r. T: 055 been open to the public for over four centuries customs office, to the Italian retailer. Said invoice engagement rings, design creations by Elsa Peretti 215722. Map E4 (since 1612). Its products (perfumes, beauty must be returned within four months from the date and Paloma Picasso and rigorously Swiss-made products, medicinal herbs, herbal teas, sweets when the document was issued. men’s and women’s watches. www.tiffany.com. PASSION SHOPPING and chocolates) are sold all over the world in 75 6. The refund can be made directly by the Italian Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 11am-7.30pm. Via single brand stores and represent a production par AquaFlor retailer (however, make sure that the shop you’ve de’ Tornabuoni 37/r. T: 055 215506. Map C4 excellence on account of their quality raw materials A perfume shop with the charm of past times, and centuries-old handicraft techniques, with the aid chosen displays a “Tax Free Shopping” or “Euro Tax Ugo Poggi dedicated to the hand-crafted manufacture of of modern technologies. The frescoed monumental Free” sign in its window). It came about in Florence in the early 20th perfumes made using natural and rare raw materials, environments - Sales Room, Green Room, Ancient 7. Several Tax-Free companies are able to offer century as a producer of silverware, porcelain, personalisable through the choice of fragrances. A Apothecary and Sacristy - have been returned to glassware and furnishings. After a century, now immediate VAT cash refunds when the goods studio run impeccably by maître parfumier Sileno their former splendour thanks to restoration work. in its third generation, today the brand proposes leave either Italian or EU territory (thus exonerating Cheloni. www.aquaflor.it. - www.aquaflorfirenze. www.smnovella.com. Open daily 9am-8pm. Via della a sophisticated production of luxury Florentine the passenger from having to return the invoice to com Open daily 10am-1pm/2pm-7pm. Borgo Santa Scala, 16. T: 055 216276. hand-crafted items for the home: from precious Croce, 6. T: 055 2343471. Map H5 Map D2 the retailer). However, this procedure only applies at crystal chandeliers to bone china crockery, to a major international airports or main border crossings. precious selection of antique silverware. No longer Dr. Vranjes The Merchant of Venice On a silver platter In the heart of the historic centre of Florence, there is a special boutique, a genuinely exciting Most major department stores have Tax Free just internally produced furnishing accessories, but Home fragrances and elegant furnishing accessories NEW The new boutique is structured into a vast Refund offices. also historic Italian and top quality international made by hand in Florence for more than 30 years. range of Eaux de Parfum and Eaux de Toilette, place to tour which aims to re-educate you on the use of silver in everyday life, breaking the Florence is home to the laboratories and the 8. The services provided by Tax-Free companies imply brands. www.ugopoggifirenze.com. Open Mon completed by products for personal care, for the habit of seeing the silver item as a luxury piece to only be exhibited on special occasions. 3pm-7.30pm; Tues-Sun 10am-7pm. Via degli Strozzi, headquarters of the Florentine home fragrance the payment of a small administrative sum which environment and accessories. The essences are This is the workshop of Brandimarte, a company that was established in Florence in 1955 26/r. T: 055 216741. Map E3 company founded and managed by the “nose”, the contained in packaging with designs inspired by the is directly deducted from the amount of VAT and that was run by the founder’s grandchildren, Stefano and Giada Guscelli. Since 2017 perfumer, namely chemist and cosmetologist Dr. glassmaking tradition of Murano. Furthermore, the Vacheron Constantin Boutique refunded to the traveller. Paolo Vranjes and his wife Anna Maria. In addition single-brand store provides a personalized layering the brand is owned by Bianca Guscelli, Stefano’s daughter. Brandimarte is distinguished for In the unique and exclusive setting that is 9. In the event of a traveller not receiving a VAT refund to the traditional production of ambient diffusers service. www.themerchantofvenice.com. Open Mon- the handcrafting and sale of silverware for the table and 925 sterling silver jewellery, Ponte Vecchio, this boutique is the oldest fine within a reasonable period of time, he or she and “lamparfum” items, the brand has diversified Thurs 10.30am-1.30pm/2.30pm-7.30pm; Wed-Sat in addition to its collection of historical silver medals. The collections of jewels, exclusively watchmaking design house in the world, founded its production with linen, cosmetics, perfumes should re-contact the Italian retailer or one of the 10.30am-7.30pm. Via degli Strozzi, 28/r. in 1755 in Geneva. The façade of the boutique is and gift boxes, also giving a strong Florentine made in Italy, created by the best Florentine artisans, include bracelets, rings, necklaces, aforementioned companies. T: 055 216559. Map E3 also known for the tabernacle with a painting of the identity to the packaging, inspired by Brunelleschi’s earrings and much more besides. Among the lines to be worn, standing out are the “timeless” 10. However, please note, VAT cannot be refunded Madonna with Child and Saint John that marked Dome. drvranjes.it. Open Mon 3pm-7pm; Tues-Sat Valli Tessuti Alta Moda hammered jewellery, elegant and sophisticated. In the boutique you will also find the “Wine the presence of an ancient oratory of the Holy directly by customs offices. 10.30am-2pm/3pm-7pm. Via San Gallo, 63/r. T: 055 A reference point in Florence that offers its clientele Collection”: decanters and tasting glasses made of 925 sterling silver. This metal, in fact, has Sepulchre, which came under the control of the 494537 Off Map • Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; the best made in Italy fabrics inspired by the most Source: www.adm.gov.it/portale/ee/citizen/vta-refund organoleptic and antibacterial properties, is a heat conductor and enhances the aromas within Knights of Malta in the early 14th century. www. Sun 11am-7.30pm. Via della Spada, 9/r. T: 055 288796. beautiful haute couture collections. The store carries cassetti.it. Open daily 10am-7pm. Ponte Vecchio, Map E3 • Open Mon 3.30pm-7.30pm; Tues-Fri a vast assortment of precious, sought-after cuts to drinks. www.brandimarte.com. Via del Moro, 92/r. T: 055 2693384. Map D3 52/r. T: 055 2396028. Map F5 make elegant dresses, prêt-à-porter and ceremonial
38 WHERE FLORENCE I SEPTEMBER 2020 www.wheretraveler.com 39 [ DAILY TOURS ] Fashion outlets
LUGANO best local food and wines are on offer. MENDRISIO Open daily 10am-8pm. BERGAMO BRESCIA • WHERE: take the A1-E35 motorway in the Not far from direction of Rome and exit at Valdichiana NOVARA TRIESTE Florence, in MILANO Bettolle. Tuscany but also • WHAT: 140 designer and brand shops characterized by quality and convenience in nearby Emilia- ALESSANDRIA offering 30% to 70% discounts all year round Romagna, don’t TORINO FERRARA and further discounts during sale periods: ? miss a trip to PIACENZA MAR Adidas, Baldinini, Brooks Brothers, Calvin Klein, Fidenza Village Diadora, Geox, Guess, Levi’s, Massimo Rebecchi, these shopping GENOVA Castel GuelfoADRIATICO BOLOGNA ? The Style Outlets Samsonite, Tommy Hilfiger, Under Armour FORTE destinations The Mall Sanremo and many others. DEI MARMI THE APPENNINI RIMINI ? MAR LIGURE LUCCA MOUNTAINBarberino RIDGE • NOT ONLY SHOPPING: ample choice of offering discounts ? Designer Outlet PISA the restaurants and refreshments, a modern year-round. FIRENZE VENTIMIGLIA playground, the possibility of recharging your SAN GIMIGNANO? The Mall Firenze electric car, free wi-fi, mobile phone recharge LIVORNO Valdichiana ANCONA and, in the event of rain, the possibility of SIENA ?Outlet Village walking in the dry beneath the porticoes. The Mall Firenze www.valdichianaoutlet.it PERUGIA BARBERINO DESIGNER OUTLET • WHAT: 110 boutiques by prestigious brands – THE MALL FIRENZE McArthurGlen Barberino is conveniently located such as Baldinini, K-way, Flavio Castellani, Guess, The luxury outlet centre The Mall Firenze is a adjacent to the A1 motorway, for easy access Pepe Jeans, Timberland, Trussardi and Vans – of gallery of the world’s most exclusive designers from Florence (just 30 minutes from the city clothing and accessories for the whole family, at truly advantageous prices, offeringPESCARA customers CORSICA centre). McArthurGlen also boasts “Serravalle” sportswear, items for the home and beauty a unique shopping experience. It is set in the near Milan (the largest Designer Outlet in products, with discounts of up to 70% on the heart of the Tuscan countryside, just 30 minutes Europe), “Castel Romano” near Rome, “La Reggia” retail price. from Florence.ROMA Open daily 10am-7pm (in June, near Naples and “Noventa di Piave” close • NOT ONLY SHOPPING: to make the day of July, August 10am-8pm). to Venice. Open daily 10am-8pm. shopping even more enjoyable, the centre also • WHERE: take the A1-E35 motorway in the • WHERE: take the A1-E35 motorway in the hosts art exhibitions, lots of eventsMAR and initiatives TIRRENO direction of Rome. Leave the motorway at the direction of Bologna and exit at Barberino. Daily designed to involve the whole family. “Incisa-Reggello” exit and proceed on the right shuttle bus service from Florence Santa Maria www.thestyleoutlets.it towards Pontassieve, as far as Leccio. DirectNAPOLI bus Novella train station (4 times a day). Meeting service from central Florence (Busitalia/Sita bus FIDENZA VILLAGE point: City Sightseeing Firenze Line A Stop No.1, station-Via S. Caterina da Siena, near the central This is one of the 11 Villages in Europe and China Florence SMN Train Station, left-luggage railway station, €7). Exclusive door-to-door of The Bicester Village Shopping Collection® by office side. minivan service from centrally located hotels in Value Retail: a place where hospitality makes the • WHAT: the perfect location to find your favourite Florence (€35 round trip). Ask your concierge. shoppingSARDEGNA experience memorable. The Village is Valdichiana Outlet Village Fidenza Village designer brands at up to 70% off, all year round. • WHAT: over 40 luxury stores (fashion, fragrance located in the Emilia-Romagna region, 2 hours With more than 120 boutiques, cafés and and footwear) featuring your favourite brands from Florence. Open daily 10am-8pm. restaurants, children’s play area and free parking, with discounts of up to 70% year-round: Gucci, • WHERE: halfway between Bologna and Milan, surrounded by wonderful Tuscany countryside Fendi, Salvatore Ferragamo, Dolce&Gabbana, near Parma. Take the A1-E35 motorway and exit and architecture, Barberino Designer Outlet offers Jimmy Choo, Saint Laurent, Bottega Veneta and at Fidenza/Salsomaggiore Terme. something for everyone. McArthurGlen.it/Barberino Chloé (June 2018 Opening). • WHAT: an exclusive shopping experience with • NOT ONLY SHOPPING: the Gucci Caffè CASTEL GUELFO THE STYLE OUTLETS unique hospitality at the core of the services Restaurant, on the top floor of the Gucci store, The point where quality, style and convenience and with over 120 boutiques of the world’s is the perfect spot for a lunch break or just to meet: men’s, women’s and children’s clothes, leading fashion and lifestyle brands at reduced savour a moment of relaxation after a day’s sportswear, accessories and cosmetics with prices (up to 70% off ), including Missoni, shopping. www.themall.it discounts of between 30% and 70% all year Jil Sander, Sergio Rossi, Marni, Vivienne round. Castel Guelfo The Style Outlets is located Westwood and many more. VALDICHIANA OUTLET VILLAGE in the Emilia-Romagna region, 1.5 hours from • NOT ONLY SHOPPING: the Village pays An authentic “Shopping Village” in the province Florence. Open Mon-Fri 10am-8pm; Sat and Sun homage to the region’s rich cultural and of Arezzo (1 hour from Florence), offering a 10am-8.30pm. gastronomic heritage. After your day of pleasant, relaxing atmosphere and a unique • WHERE: take the A1 Bologna-Ancona and exit shopping, visit one of its restaurants to indulge shopping experience characterised by quality at Castel San Pietro Terme. A free shuttle service is in delicious homemade pasta with fresh and convenience. It has several facilities and available daily from Castel San Pietro Terme Parmesan cheese from nearby Parma. services, such as a beauty centre, a playground, Castel Guelfo The Style Outlets Barberino Designer Outlet railway station. www.fidenzavillage.com the library and several food courts where the
40 WHERE FLORENCE I SEPTEMBER 2020 www.wheretraveler.com 41 DINING FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT FLORENCE.WHEREITALIA.COM store. In an ambiance of industrial design, the from small local farms. Forget the image of fast food, TUSCAN CUISINE restaurant offers a high quality menu at affordable because here the hamburger is accompanied by Benedicta prices, combining traditional dishes based fresh ingredients, hand-made sesame seed bread, EDITOR’S TIP The Benedicta restaurant, to which strictly on seasonal products, with a penchant for freshly fried potatoes and browned onions. €€. www. the Michelin Guide 2017 assigned 3 forks, is a pearl experimentation in the mix of flavours and textures. lungarno23.it. Lungarno Torrigiani, 23. T: 055 2345957. hidden away in a side street near Santa Maria Novella, €€. www.lamenagere.it. Via De’ Ginori, 8/r. T: 055 Map G6 inside the Rivoli Boutique Hotel. Italian and Tuscan 0750600. Map F1 cuisine revisited in a contemporary vein, with a menu L’Ortone based on locally sourced ingredients that changes Latini (Il) Situated in the emerging San Ambrogio foodie every two months depending on the season. Open Historic trattoria near Santa Maria Novella highlighted district, opposite the charming street market, the 7.30pm-11pm; closed on Sun. From late April to in the Michelin Guide. Besides bistecca alla fiorentina, menu is based on typical Tuscan dishes, with a focus October you can dine in the romantic flower garden. there are pork chops and ribs on the Il Latini grill, as on traditional first courses and grilled specialities, €€. www.ristorantebenedicta.it. Via Benedetta 12/r. well as roast beef or lamb. Also available are Florentine including of course the fiorentina. If you want to try T:055 2645429. Map D2 tripe and peposo (peppery Tuscan beef stew), something more adventurous you can’t go wrong with depending on the season. The cantina is well stocked the pork liver confit with kale and Boretto onions. €€. Bordino Trattoria with the best Tuscan wines, autochthonous and non, as www.lortone.it. Piazza Lorenzo Ghiberti 87/r. T: 055 234 High up in a little street just a stone’s throw from well as the big French labels. €€€. www.illatini.com Via 0804. Map L4 the Ponte Vecchio, the Trattoria Bordino is always dei Palchetti, 6. T: 055 210916. Map D3 crowded with both locals and tourists because of its Marione Trattoria quality food at very affordable prices. The dishes are Locale Firenze The atmosphere of an old-fashioned trattoria in the traditional, with bistecca alla fiorentina grilled directly A restaurant steeped in history, in an ancient building historic centre of Florence. Here it is possible to taste on wood charcoal the speciality. A wide selection of where by just descending a few steps you can travel the typical dishes of Tuscan cuisine surrounded by Italian wines accompanies the dishes in a pleasant, - like in a time machine - from the Renaissance to 13th- barrel vaults and baked brick floors. Ribollita, taglierini relaxed environment. €€. www.trattoriabordino.it. Via century Florence, to the wine cellars that conserve with truffle, bistecca alla fiorentina and Tuscan cured Stracciatella, 9/r. T: 055 213048. Map F5 Roman remains. It is possible to stop for just an aperitif meats are among the most popular dishes. If you go with sophisticated cocktails or stay for dinner with at the weekend it is advisable to book in advance, Cammillo dishes from the tradition revisited in a contemporary because there is usually a long queue of people A historic Florentine trattoria not far from Ponte vein. €€€. www.localefirenze.it. Via delle Seggiole, 12/r. waiting outside. €€. www.casatrattoria.com/trattoria- Vecchio. Inside it is as if time stood still: the (very long) T: 055 9067188. Map H3 marione. Via della Spada 27/r. T: 055 214756. Map E3 menu has practically all the classic Tuscan recipes, plus a few you wouldn’t expect like prawn curry with Lungarno23 Opera pilaf rice, actually one of Cammillo’s signature dishes. In the splendid setting of Lungarno Torrigiani, this Situated inside the Grand Hotel Adriatico, a few Also very good are the croutons with chicken livers, restaurant is famous for its Chianina meat hamburgers, steps from the coolest “Oltrarno” district, the Opera the ribollita, tripe, bistecca alla fiorentina and stuffed which are certified with the I.G.P. mark and come rabbit. €€. Borgo San Jacopo, 57/r. T: 055 212427. Map E5
Cibrèo Ristorante In Florence and in the area near the Market of
FIRENZEYESPLEASE.COM Sant’Ambrogio, Cibrèo is a trademark for eating well. The Cibrèo Restaurant offers territorial and regional cuisine that is sincere and vigorous, with no
PHOTO © fear of strong ingredients such as olive oil, garlic or Tuscan kale, drenched in personality, in the image of its founder Fabio Picchi. The products are strictly seasonal and arrive from rigorously selected farm, fisheries, sheep and cattle breeders. €€€. www.cibreo. com/ristorante. Via Andrea del Verrocchio, 8/r. T: 055 Cantinetta Antinori, a taste of Tuscany 2341100. Map L3 The full range of Marchesi Antinori wines, accompanied by seasonal Tuscan dishes, in the unique setting Da Burde The menu changes with the mood of the kitchen, and of a 15th-century palace. the seasons. Here you’ll find croutons with chicken livers, fiorentina, pappa col pomodoro, and ribollita. Highlighted by the Michelin Guide as excellent ocated on the ground floor of the old family you can taste the full range of the company’s value for money, the atmosphere has remained that of the early 1900’s, as has the food, simple but rich home, Palazzo Antinori, one of the most wines, by the bottle or the glass, accompanied in flavour. A well-stocked cantina, with Tuscan and Genuine food for all tastes L important examples of mid-15th-century by culinary specialities, prevalently Tuscan, many Piedmontese wines but also French, including some architecture, Cantinetta Antinori reflects the of which are based on products originating fine champagne. €€€. www.vinodaburde.com. Via at the Central Market Pistoiese, 154. T: 055 317206. Off Map Antinori passion for wine and local traditions. from the family’s various estates in Tuscany and Where is it possible to taste Sicilian specialities, vegan dishes, Chianina hamburgers, sushi, fresh One of the world’s oldest family firms, they have Umbria. Precisely because the key ingredients IO Osteria Personale ADVERTORIALpasta, dishes from the Tuscan tradition such as tripe and lamprey, high-quality meats, pizzas, been producing wine for more than six hundred are seasonal, the menu is made up of just a few In the neighbourhood of San Frediano, which still fried food specials and artisan ice-creams, all under one roof? At the Central Market in Florence, conserves the charm of the most authentic Florence, years. Over 26 generations they have established (very good) items: for example you can begin a temple of taste located right in the city centre and housed on the first floor of the historic surrounded by wooden ceilings and brick walls, a a closer and closer connection with wine and with fettunta (grilled garlic bread) with kale, modern tavern that has a preference for the products covered market of San Lorenzo. In this sort of modern agora for gourmets, in addition to the its rhythms, earning them an international followed by a plate of Cinta Senese cold cuts, then of the territory, reinterpreting them in an innovative craft shops where you can shop in the usual way, you can also take a seat at the large convivial reputation as one of the principal wine producers grilled Tuscan sirloin steak with roast potatoes. way. Among the titbits are crispy vitel toné, ravioli tables and enjoy one of the many specialities that are prepared there on the spot. In a territory with several estates in Italy and abroad. And for dessert, what could be more Tuscan of wild salmon, whipped cream, ginger, herring such as that of Florence, which is famous for the genuineness and quality of its dishes, the aim caviar and dill or tagliatelle with raw red shrimps and Just inside the main entrance to the palace is than a slice of castagnaccio (chestnut flour cake), seasonal mushrooms. €€. www.io-osteriapersonale.it. has been to protect consumers to the maximum: all the operators at the Central Market in fact the door of the Cantinetta, where guests are accompanied by the right wine naturally? Borgo San Frediano 167/r. T: 055 9331341. Map B4 sign a quality specification whereby all the dishes prepared inside the market are cooked using welcomed by the symbol of the Arte dei Vinattieri only the raw materials on sale at the market itself. The market also holds food and wine tasting La Ménagère (Vintner’s Guild), which the first member of the >> Piazza Antinori, 3. T: 055 292234 A concept restaurant not far from Battistero, courses, book presentations and events of all kinds. www.mercatocentrale.it Antinori family joined in 1385. In the restaurant www.cantinetta-antinori.com combining restaurant, bistrot, florist and design
42 WHERE FLORENCE I SEPTEMBER 2020 www.wheretraveler.com 43 DINING DINING
restaurant offers dishes from both the Italian and lovers of the real fiorentina, but the other local Tuscan the typical Florentine and Tuscan culinary traditions. dishes are worth trying too, such as croutons, ribollita In a relaxed and elegant atmosphere, with a music or wild boar with polenta. €€€. www.bucalapi.com. Via The “fiorentina” Michelin-starred restaurants background of the most important operas, you can del Trebbio 1/r. T: 055 213768. Map E3 taste tortelli,tagliata, steak alla Fiorentina and the traditional Florentine dessert ’zuccotto’. Its wine cellar Buca Mario deserves a special mention. Open 7.30pm-10.30pm; For years ordinary folk have rubbed shoulders with Giovannini. A breathtaking view over Florence and closed on Sun. €€. www.hoteladriatico.it. Via Maso famous names beneath the bare brick ceilings of Buca across vineyards at the rear, these are just the cherry on Finiguerra, 9. T: 055 294447. Map C2 Mario to enjoy simple, genuine Florentine cuisine the cake of a creative culinary proposal, which in this (although you can still request a private room for case too draws its inspiration from the local tradition, Osteria Badalì up to ten people in classic 16th-century Florentine with a propensity for quality meat (the boiled sausages Located in the heart of a rather quiet district, San style). The bistecca alla fiorentina is excellent, as is the and ’soppressata’ are self-produced), but also for Niccolò. A culinary proposal that revisits the traditions ribollita or pappardelle with Maremma boar ragù. €€. vegetables picked directly from the restaurant’s own of the past, all about long cooking times and www.bucamario.com. Piazza degli Ottaviani, 16/r. T: vegetable and herb garden and for the hand-made essentials, starting with the study of old cooking texts 055 214179. Map D3 bread using flour from ancient grains. found on the second-hand book stalls and based above all on homemade pasta and traditional soups, Buca Poldo Ora d ’Aria as well as pork products. €€. www.badaliosteria.it. Via A few yards from Piazza della Signoria and Ponte Via dei Georgofili 11/r. T: 055 200169 dei Renai 11/r. T: 055 2264422. Map H6 Vecchio, Buca Poldo serves characteristic Tuscan www.oradariaristorante.com dishes including ribollita, pappa al pomodoro, An hour of air to escape from culinary boredom. Touch Bistrò Toscano fiorentina and boar stew, as well as a few forays into We don’t know if the owner had this in mind when Three young entrepreneurs who met over the hobs other regional cuisines. Although the majority of the he gave this name to his restaurant, just a stone’s of the hotelier institute have made their dream a courses are meat based, some fish dishes are also Buca Mario throw from Ponte Vecchio, but it certainly gives that reality by opening this bistro that favours the use of available. The kitchen is open on two sides, so that impression. Tuscan chef Marco Stabile is playing at seasonal ingredients selected from the nearby market diners can watch the chefs at work. www.bucapoldo. Bistecca alla fiorentina is one of home with dishes that are a reminder of granny’s of Sant’Ambrogio in the neighbourhood of the same com. Chiasso degli Armagnati, 2/r. T: 055.239.6578. the most iconic dishes in Florence recipes but tending towards a more creative name. The menu, which gives a touch of freshness to Map F4 cuisine. But be careful: to recognize contemporary style. Lovers of strong flavours can the Tuscan tradition, proposes, among other things, Buca San Giovanni the original and tell it apart from the delight in dishes such as soft-crisp piglet or pigeon ravioli di ossobuco, fried egg and fagioli all’uccelletto, Buca San Giovanni is another of Italy’s historic hundreds of impostors, there are cooked in three ways. For lunch the choice of the but also monkfish and squid. €€. touchflorence.com. restaurants. Originally the sacristy of the nearby a few tips you need to know. “tapas” formula allows you to try a selection of small Via di Mezzo 42/r. T:055 2466150. Map I3 Baptistery of Saint John opposite Florence cathedral, Bottega del Buon Caffè portions of gourmet dishes. The wine cellar boasts Tuscani 3 (I) it was also the Rosicrucian masons’ secret initiation Tuscan wines, but also prized Italian and French labels Cooking a “fiorentina” is a genuine ritual If you love “ciccia” (which is what Tuscans call red venue and countless notables from Florence and and a highly select menu of beers. with unwritten rules that the visitor In addition to the historic and well established Enoteca Pinchiorri, with its meat), you must not miss this steakhouse and elsewhere have enjoyed a meal under its ancient needs to know to avoid falling foul prestigious three Michelin stars, there are six other Florentine restaurants delicatessen that is very famous in the city. Located vaults. There is no lack of classic dishes such as Il Palagio of the restaurant owner, paying over in the heart of the historic centre, a few steps from ossobuco alla Fiorentina (oxtail) and stracotto al that have been awarded one star. Let’s enjoy them together. Borgo Pinti, 99. T: 055 2626450 Piazza della Repubblica, it obviously offers the Chianti (beef braised in Chianti), but the cuisine also the odds and to make sure they get www.ilpalagioristorante.it typical bistecca alla fiorentina but also selections of stretches to other Italian regional specialities, such as the real thing. Enoteca Pinchiorri vegetable garden that the restaurant possesses in the Inside the Hotel Four Seasons, in a sophisticated Tuscan pork, cured meat boards or steak tartare and bucatini all’amatriciana, spaghetti alla carbonara or Via Ghibellina, 87. T: 055 242757 Florentine countryside, meat reared by local farms and environment with tables both indoors and outdoors, WHAT. This succulent steak is obtained hamburger made rigorously with Chianina meat. €€. linguine al pesto. www.bucasangiovanni.it. Piazza San enotecapinchiorri.it fresh fish. These are the strong points of the Bottega Il Palagio bases itself on a culinary proposal that looks from a specific cut of a young Chianina http://ituscani3.com.Via Dante Alighieri 18/r.T: 055 Giovanni, 8. T: 055 287612 Map F to the Italian and regional tradition with a touch of cow, a part of the loin near the backbone How do you manage to be honoured with three del Buon Caffè. On the Lungarno, in the shadow of 285356. Map F4 Michelin stars, the highest recognition, which is only the medieval Tower of San Niccolò, chef Erez Ohayon modernity, as in the terrine of foie gras with Vin Santo Fiaschetteria Nuvoli which has a T-bone in the middle. achieved by a hundred restaurants worldwide? In proposes a cuisine based on the use of seasonal gelée or cheese and pepper cavatelli with red shrimps Zeb Just a few steps from Piazza Duomo is an obligatory It should be grilled at a very high the case of the Enoteca Pinchiorri, it comes from the ingredients, with a predilection for herbs and spices and baby squid. Chef Vito Mollica offers a menu that Just moments away from Piazzale Michelangelo and destination for anyone who has ever wondered what temperature, so that a fine crust forms winning combination of prime quality raw materials, to bring out the flavours. The seasonal tasting menus is a symphony of flavours, raw materials and colours, the Giardino delle Rose, Zeb - highlighted by the Florence’s old wine cellars were really like in the rapidly on the meat. All the flavour of this at times venturing far beyond the confines of Tuscany the search for innovation, yet without forgetting the include gems such as amberjack served in three ways Michelin Guide - serves a host of traditional Tuscan past. Open from 8.30 in the morning until evening, it dish depends on the cooking: the meat territory’s (great) culinary tradition, obsessive attention (tartare, ’ventresca’, fillet) or home-made cappelletti with dishes based on truffle, wagyu beef or three kinds dishes such as cappellacci, tripe, lampredotto, meat serves typical Tuscan specialities such as chicken liver must be brown on the outside but red, to every detail and an unrivalled wine menu, which with pigeon, butter and thyme. of caviar. The wine menu includes more than 400 balls and stuffed rabbit. A tiny place, the diners eat croutons, cold cuts, tagliatelle al ragù, fried chicken includes highly prized labels, along with others that are labels, 50 of which also served by the glass. at the bar, like a delicatessen (actually, its former soft and juicy on the inside, hot, but not or brains, ribollita, pappa col pomodoro and roast cooked through. This is the first vital rule: little known but equally interesting. Then we can add Gucci Osteria da Massimo Bottura identity). There is a large selection of Italian wines, porchetta. There is also a vast choice of Tuscan wines, a fiorentina must be eaten rare. the fact that the restaurant is located inside the 18th- Piazza della Signoria, 10. T: 055 75927038 with a special focus on small local producers. €€. also available for aperitifs. Piazza dell’Olio, 15/r. century Palazzo Jacometti-Ciofi and that its desserts www.gucci.com/it/it/store/osteria-bottura Borgo San Jacopo www.zebgastronomia.com. Via San Miniato, 2. T: 055 T: 055 239 6616. Map F2 HOW. It should also be at least 3 or 4 cms are a delight for the senses. Located inside inside the Gucci Garden, the creative Ribollita calssica..e croccante 2342864. Map H6 thick, and weigh between 1.2 kg and 1.5 liaison between Gucci and Bottura celebrates two kgs, although bigger steaks are easily Borgo San Jacopo c /o Hotel Lungarno Borgo things Italy is renowned for: fashion and fine cuisine. PIZZA Ora d’Aria CANTINE available. And here is another sore point. San Jacopo, 62/r. T: 055 281661 Head of the team is Mexican chef Karime Lopez Kondo. Pizza Man Antica Mescita San Niccolò At a restaurant you pay for a fiorentina www.borgosanjacopo.com The menu is an explosive blend of flavours ranging Right in the city centre, this colourful Neapolitan Ever wanted to eat lunch in a 1000 AD Romanesque Overlooking the banks of the Arno, with a picture from Italy to the Orient and offers cosmopolitan titbits school pizzeria with a fun atmosphere does gluten- by weight. An average price to be sure of crypt? In Florence you can, at the Antica Mescita San postcard view of Ponte Vecchio, the restaurant Borgo such as the “Taka-ban”, the classic Japanese steamed free and 100% vegan pizzas as well as the traditional getting the real thing is around 50 euros Niccolò, which also used to serve as a customs post San Jacopo is perfect for a romantic evening. In this bun with pork belly and spicy sauce, or marinated variety. Now those with a food intolerance or special a kilo. for wine originating from Chianti. Naturally, the wine case the winning recipe is one that blends creativity, Adriatic palamita with tortilla or fried aubergines in dietary needs don’t have to go without a tasty pizza. is excellent and predominately Tuscan and the food WITH. The traditional accompaniment is tradition and quality ingredients (lamb in sea water or shiso sauce. In a very intimate setting, the bistro plays €. www.pizzaman.it. Via dell’Agnolo 105/107r. also reflects the season and the local territory, with usually cannellini beans, washed down Bresse rooster and octopus are an example of this), all around the tones of green and pistachio and can T: 055 2480200. Map H4 washed down with wines chosen from a cellar of 900 welcome up t o 35 diners indoors. dishes such as cold cuts and mixed cheeses, ribollita, with a glass of Chianti. labels. You can opt for the tasting menu (the potato- bistecca alla fiorentina and lampredotto, to name just Pizzaiuolo (Il) WHERE. Here are four restaurants where a few. €€. www.osteriasanniccolo.it. Via San Niccolò, based one is unmissable) or à la carte. La Leggenda dei Frati c/o Villa Bardini Just steps from the Sant’Ambrogio market, this is you can’t go wrong: Il Latini (www. 60/r. T: 055 2342836. Map H6 one of Florence’s oldest pizzerias. Here again the Costa S. Giorgio, 6/a. T: 055 0680545 illatini.com), Buca Lapi (www.bucalapi. La Bottega del Buon Caffè www.laleggendadeifrati.it pizza is Neapolitan: wood oven cooked, with quality SHUTTERSTOCK.COM Buca Lapi com), Da Burde (www.vinodaburde.com) Lungarno Benvenuto Cellini, 69/r. T: 055 5535677 Inside the Villa Bardini museum complex in Costa San in-season toppings, mostly sourced from Campania. This is one of Florence’s oldest eating places. Crafted and Perseus (www.casatrattoria.com/ www.borgointhecity.com/it/la-bottegadel-buon-caffe Giorgio is the one-star restaurant La Leggenda dei Frati The rest of the menu also follows Neapolitan out of the wine cellars of the Renaissance Palazzo Zero food miles products gathered from the organic helmed by chef Filippo Saporito and his wife Ombretta tradition, with first courses of fish and local desserts ristorante-perseus-firenze). PHOTO © Antinori, it still preserves traces of over a century of such as babà and pastiera. €. www.ilpizzaiuolo.it. Via (C.Z.) history thanks to the meticulous restoration of the dei Macci, 113/r. T: 055 241171. Map I3 internal frescoes. Buca Lapi is particularly popular with
44 WHERE FLORENCE I SEPTEMBER 2020 www.wheretraveler.com 45 DINING DINING Top hotel restaurants
Il Conventino a Marignolle c/o Villa Tolomei Hotel & Resort wVia di Santa Maria a Marignolle, 10. T: 055 3920425 www.ilconventinoamarignolle.com A very romantic view and frescoed rooms in a wonderful 12th-century villa surrounded by a vast estate comprising 20 hectares of olive groves, Il Conventino a Marignolle Il Palagio vineyards and orchards. The kitchen proposes traditional Tuscan and Italian dishes, prepared with seasonal products from the estate or the nearby of truffles. Truffles are served all year round: from countryside. Regional specialities typical of Tuscany, as antipasto to dessert, savour the best varieties of well as the favourites of Italian cuisine. fresh Tuscan truffles, from the Black Truffle and Tuber Borchii, to the more expensive White Truffle Il Palagio and Tuber magnatum Pico. Classic truffle items are Bristol Winter Garden c/o Four Seasons Hotel Firenze flanked by other sophisticated dishes: tagliolino, Borgo Pinti, 99. T: 055 2626450 egg, tartare. The menu also includes classic Tuscan www.ilpalagioristorante.it dishes. Tradition, innovation and creativity: Flora & Fauno A sophisticated ambiance with tables both inside Where® highlights some culinary c/o Hotel Ville sull’Arno and outside, Il Palagio is a Michelin-starred restaurant Se•Sto on Arno Lungarno Cristoforo Colombo 3/5. whose culinary offering looks to Italian and regional c/o The Westin Excelsior Florence destinations to whet your appetite T: 055 670971 tradition with a modern touch. Chef Vito Mollica Piazza Ognissanti 3. T: 055 27152783 in several top hotels in Florence. www.hotelvillesullarno.com ventures far beyond the confines of Tuscan cuisine www.westinflorence.com Facing the river and immersed in the lovely garden of with dishes based on truffles, wagyu beef and three Local flavours and seasonal products for a the Hotel Ville sull’Arno, Flora & Fauno offers a peaceful types of caviar. The wine list comprises more than 400 Tuscan cuisine with a touch of innovation and an Borgo San Jacopo spot with a vintage country feel in which to explore labels, of which 50 are also served by the glass. The unforgettable view of Florence. On the sixth floor c/o Hotel Lungarno the flavours and aromas of Tuscany. Classic traditional hotel also has two other restaurants: La Magnolia and of The Westin Excelsior, SE•STO on Arno combines Borgo San Jacopo, 62/R. T: 055 281661 recipes revisited in a contemporary accent. The Trattoria al fresco. a restaurant, lounge, bar and garden enclosed by www.borgosanjacopo.com protagonists on the menu are the local ingredients, sweeping picture windows that make the most of On the banks of the Arno, with a postcard view of juxtaposed sometimes in new and unexpected ways, Irene the unique position and breathtaking view over Ponte Vecchio, the Borgo San Jacopo restaurant at other times sticking to tradition. c/o Hotel Savoy La Loggia the city. is the perfect place for a romantic evening. The Piazza della Repubblica, 7. T: 055 273 5891 traditional Italian dishes are reinterpreted using fine Golden Restaurant www.roccofortehotels.com Villa La Vedetta quality ingredients by Michelin-starred chef Claudio c/o Golden Tower Hotel & SPA Inside the Hotel Savoy, a sumptuous fin-de-siècle Le Bistrot Ristorante La Chiostrina c/o Villa La Vedetta Mengoni, accompanied by collector wines from a Piazza Strozzi 11/r. building with an extraordinary collection of art works, c/o Villa Cora c/o Bernini Palace Viale Michelangiolo, 78. T: 055 681631 cantina of 900 labels. T: 055 287860 the restaurant boasts a menu inspired by chef Fulvio Viale Machiavelli, 18. T: 055 22 87 90 Piazza San Firenze, 29 (Piazza della Signoria). T: 055 288621 www.villalavedettahotel.com www.goldentowerhotel.it Pierangelini, who together with head chef Giovanni www.villacora.it hotelbernini.duetorrihotels.com Just moments away from the Piazzale Bristol Winter Garden The cuisine is based on the authentic flavours of Cosmai has designed a series of classic and new The location in itself is extraordinary: an ancient park One of the most elegant and sophisticated restaurants Michelangelo belvedere, with a breathtaking c/o Helvetia & Bristol Florentine and Italian wine and food, whose trump versions of Tuscan tradition, using the best local and that dominates the Boboli Gardens, the aristocratic in the historic centre, housed under a 16th-century view over Florence, is this discreet and elegant Via dei Pescioni, 8/r. T: 055 2665620 card is the guaranteed freshness and quality of the seasonal products. residence that once hosted princess Eugenia, wife of portico. The menu draws on the most genuine local restaurant with a rich wine list, mainly focused on www.starhotelscollezione.com ingredients, chosen personally by the chef. Intimate Napoleon III, and the French pianist Claude Debussy, flavours, such as the celebrated pappa al pomodoro, fine Tuscan reds. Local cuisine, with products and The restaurant is located inside the evocative and refined atmosphere, with high class furnishings J.K. Lounge Restaurant & Bar among others. The menu, created by Executive Chef for a sensory journey through Tuscan cuisine. Besides recipes typical of the region, so with meat, though Winter Garden, covered by the historic Liberty- and fittings. c/o JK Place Firenze Alessandro Liberatore, offers traditional Tuscan dishes regional specialities, the menu also offers international there are plenty of vegan and vegetarian options style glass ceiling. A versatile ambience with Piazza di Santa Maria Novella, 7. T: 055 5321910 made exclusively with seasonal and for the most part dishes. too. classic motifs of 18th-century chinoiserie. Among Il Giardino Restaurant www.jkplace.com locally sourced products. In winter the restaurant the proposals of Chef Pasquale D’Ambrosio the c/o Sina Villa Medici Here are Tuscan and Italian specialities made with occupies the exquisite oriental Sala Moresca with its Ristorante La Loggia Winter Garden by Caino inimitable roasted rock octopus and the most Via Il Prato, 42. local and seasonal ingredients, preferably organically frescoed cupola ceiling, while in the summer it moves c/o Belmond Villa San Michele c/o The Saint Regis Florence traditional Chianina tenderloin, a true tribute to T: 055 2771891 farmed. In the summer months the elegant dining poolside to the winter garden. Via Doccia, 4 - Fiesole (FI). T: 055 5678200 Piazza Ognissanti, 1. T: 055 27163770 the Tuscan land. The Winter Garden opens into the www.sinahotels.com room, styled as a cosy living room, opens onto the www.belmond.com www.wintergardenbycaino.com Tinello, the beating heart of the hotel, designed by A temple of flavours in the sophisticated ambiance of terrace in the marvellous Piazza di Santa Maria Novella. Relais Le Jardin This imposing 15th-century loggia is worth the Immersed in the fin-de-siècle atmosphere of the Riccardo Barthel, that hosts a variety of gastronomic the Sina Hotel Villa Medici, an aristocratic 18th-century c/o Hotel Regency visit even just for its magnificent position looking over Hotel Saint Regis Florence, the Michelin-starred appointments in different moments of the day. palace, recently renovated and restored to its former La Cucina del Salviatino Piazza M. D’Azeglio, 3. T: 055 245247 Florence. Regional Tuscan specialities revisited restaurant Winter Garden by Caino, was born out splendour. The restaurant, with its winter garden c/o Il Salviatino www.regency-hotel.com in a contemporary accent by Executive Chef of a creative liaison between chef Valeria Piccini Capriccio Restaurant which can be opened during the summer months, Via del Salviatino, 21- Fiesole (FI). T: 055 9041111 Located in the elegant Sala Zodiaco, amidst huge Alessandro Cozzolino. and executive chef Gentian Shehi. Their menu c/o Hotel Montebello Splendid has been studied in every detail with an exclusive www.salviatino.com mirrors, candles and a veranda that in summer opens shines an innovative spotlight on the wonderful Via G. Garibaldi, 14. T: 055 27471 design. Seasonality and territoriality are the basis for Il Majestic 15th-century villa in the hills of Fiesole, with onto the private garden, the restaurant’s chef Sandro Savini Tartufi Truffle Restaurant local cuisine, with suggestions from all parts of the www.montebellosplendid.com Giardino’s cuisine, interpreted by chef Luigi Incrocci. a captivating view of Florence. Cuisine with strong Baldini proposes a rich array of Italian and Tuscan c/o NH Collection Firenze Porta Rossa globe. It ranges from the classic Tuscan dishes for The restaurant is designed to ensure tranquility, out The menu presents interesting creations of the best links to the local territory and the seasons, with a dishes (home-made pasta and regional specialities Via Porta Rossa, 19. T: 055 3995913 strong stomachs such as tripe and lampredotto to of the tourist circuit, and to satisfy you with class Italian and international tradition, revisited in a modern prevalence of meat courses, though there is no such as truffles, porcini mushrooms, costolette alla www.savinitartufi.it/restaurants/savini-firenze more refined proposals like lobster tail on cream service and haute cuisine dishes. Quality products mood. The philosophy behind the restaurant’s cuisine shortage of fish and vegetarian dishes. The historic fiorentina and others besides) that vary depending Palazzo Bartolini houses one of the three restaurants of topinambour and mandarin. The desserts, too, and absolute freshness for a couple’s candlelight is to amaze the guests dish after dish. The wine cellar orchard and organic vegetable garden ensure zero on the season’s ingredients, always fresh and of the in Italy run by Savini Tartufi, a family-owned business are a joy for both eyes and palate, in particular their dinner or a special event. has 60 wine labels. food miles. highest quality. famed for nearly 100 years for its exclusive selection original take on tiramisù.
46 WHERE FLORENCE I SEPTEMBER 2020 www.wheretraveler.com 47 ENTERTAINMENT FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT FLORENCE.WHEREITALIA.COM (more than 1500 labels, also to buy), coffee, and French toast. Designer atmosphere. www. APERITIVI aperitifs and snacks. Delicious Tuscan and other dittaartigianale.it. Via dei Neri, 32/r. (Santa Croce regional bites. Rooftop terrace with view of Ponte district). • T: 055 2741541 or Via dello Sprone, 5/r. Chiaroscuro Vecchio. www.signorvino.com. Via de’ Bardi, 46/r. (Santo Spirito district). T: 055 0457163. Map E5 Opened in 1999 as a place to celebrate coffee, T: 055 286258. Map F5 Florentines today are attracted by the original Foody Farm and genuine snacks. Coffee, hot chocolate and Three Sixty “The right food from the right places” is the motto aperitifs served in a popular bar-cafe furnished From May to September the Grand Hotel of this little restaurant where the quality and with a retro touch. Until 9.30pm. www.chiaroscuro. Minerva, next to Santa Maria Novella, opens its traceability of the ingredients is the holy grail. An it. Via del Corso, 36/r. T: 055 214247. Map G3 magnificent panoramic terrazza with swimming original and genuine light lunch, with the option pool to outside guests. Aperitifs from 7pm. www. of half portions. Tuscan street food and fast food, Easy living grandhotelminerva.com. Piazza di Santa Maria including lampredotto and pecorino, chianina Better known to Florentines as the “spiaggina” Novella. T: 055 27230. Map E2 and croutons, besides pasta and soups. 11am (little beach), its location is quite singular: this till midnight. Intimate bistrot in the Santa Croce strictly summer-only bar is built right on the Zoe district. www.foodyfarm.it. Corso dei Tintori, 10/r. river-bed of the Arno, opposite Torre San Niccolò, Cocktails and apericena accompanied by hookah, T: 055 242327. Map H5 from where patrons can enjoy a leisurely aperitif in a bar with essential modern furnishings and with a stunning view of Ponte Vecchio, often with soft lighting. For years a favourite with the Odeon Bistrot live music. There is always a cooling breeze, a younger crowd, always a lively atmosphere in the Burgers, brunch and aperitifs in this beautiful big plus in a sweltering Florence summer. www. trendy San Niccolò district. www.facebook.com/ little restaurant with a very elegant exterior, white easylivingfirenze.it. Piazza G. Poggi. T: 055 zoebarfirenze. Via dei Renai, 13. T: 055 243111. columns and vaulted ceiling. Open each day from 2341112. Map I6 Map H6 8.30 in the morning till 3 at night, for snacks and traditional Tuscan dishes as well as an exceptional Gucci Osteria da Massimo Bottura wine list. City centre, next door to its namesake The style of one of the world’s favourite fashion BRUNCH cinema. www.odeonbistro.it. Piazza degli Strozzi, brands, a star chef and an incomparable location, Ditta Artigianale 8/r. T: 055 215654. Map E4 surrounded by Florentine art. Popular at any hour, Founder Francesco Sanapo finished sixth in aperitifs are a particularly draw. www.gucci.com. a contest held in Melbourne in 2013 involving Procacci Piazza della Signoria, 10. T: 055 75927038. Map F4 competitors from 60 countries to find the world’s This delicatessen founded in 1885 has become an institution, and not only in Florence, especially Il Locale best coffee barista. Back in Florence, he opened for its truffle-based specialities and impeccable Ideal at any time of day, but perfect for aperitifs, this bistrot which, besides the exceptional coffee, selection of wines. Combines a gourmet food located in a small street not far from the Duomo. serves a brunch menu (from 9am to 3.30pm) shop and wine bar in a relaxing atmosphere, Hanging garden, lounge bar, cantina and intimate ranging from Greek yogurt and crudités to bacon snugs, all beautifully restored. Exquisite nibbles and excellent wine list. www.localefirenze.it. Via delle Seggiole, 6. T: 055 9067188. Map G3
Il Rifrullo In 1981 it was the first American Bar in Florence ROCCO RORANDELLI / TERRAPROJECT and it has never lost its appeal as a rendezvous for both Florentines and visitors, renovated several times but still a landmark. You can enjoy its rightly PHOTO © acclaimed aperitifs and abundant buffet in the garden in summer or in front of the fire in winter. www.ilrifrullo.com. Via San Niccolò, 55/r. T: 055 2342621. Map H6
Moyo Antinori wine experience Aperitifs and light dinner in a locale that offers international cuisine, cocktails and DJ set in The Cantina Antinori in the Chianti Classico region combines an age-old family tradition with an avant-garde a modern and stylish setting, a landmark of Florentine nightlife. www.moyo.it. T: 055 2479738. structure, for an immersive experience going far beyond simple wine-tasting. By Chiara Zaccarelli Via dei Benci, 23/r. Map H4 Rivalta Cafè Aperitifs, DJ set and Italian menu in a chic venue mmersed in the extraordinary Chianti cellar and the elegance of Antinori wines. that combines modern furnishings and frescoed landscape, amid gentle hills, endless Various tasting itineraries are available: ceilings. The sight of the Arno at dusk always Ivineyards and old olive-groves, the Cantina from the simpler one, for those approaching attracts a crowd. www.rivaltacafe.it. Lungarno Antinori in the Chianti Classico Region the world of Marchesi Antinori to the more Corsini 14/r. T: 055 289810. Map E4 welcomes you with its ultramodern architecture complete one, which includes a tasting of Rooftop Bar La Terrazza and all the ancient know-how of the Antinori seven wines and lunch at the “Rinuccio 1180” Cocktails and champagne on an elegant patio Flying over Tuscany furnished to contemporary taste, looking over at Marquises. About 45 minutes by car from restaurant, located on the roof of the Cantina. If you happen to only be in Florence for a weekend, why not opt for a panoramic the medieval Consorti Tower. On the top floor of Florence, this low environmental impact, To complete the visit, it is possible to visit the the Hotel Continentale. www.continentalehotel. ADVERTORIALtour from a different perspective, perhaps in a hot-air balloon? Balloon in Tuscany, a high energy-saving structure overlooks the “Futuro Antico” space, where a part of the family com. Vicolo dell’Oro, 6. T: 055 27265987. Map F4 company recognized by the Associazione Aerostatica Toscana, offers its guests itineraries surrounding countryside where Sangiovese collection is exhibited. lasting between 45 and 90 minutes flying over some of the region’s most unmissable Se·Sto on Arno grapes are grown (together with the other The Antinori Family has been dedicated to The Westin Excelsior opens its bar for aperitifs destinations, including cities of art and charming landscapes. Various launch points – varieties of grape that have historically been producing wines for more than six hundred every evening from 7pm to 9pm. Two large located in Florence, Siena and San Gimignano, as well as in the heart of the Chianti hills placed alongside them). Here it is possible years now, managing the activity with innovative terrazze provide a 360° view over the marvels – enable you to personalize your itinerary to the maximum, at the same time enjoying the to experience delights of the senses by choices, but maintaining an unchanged respect of Florence. www.westinflorence.com. Piazza exhilaration of flight, the beauty of unprecedented scenery and the discovery of historical Ognissanti, 3. T: 055 27151. Map C3 immersing yourself in an itinerary that is for the traditions and for the territory. and cultural landmarks guided by pilots who are experts on the locations. architectural, gustatory and emotional at the Signorvino www.balloonintuscany.com same time, revealing the majesty of the wine >> antinorichianticlassico.it This wine bar on two floors offers Italian wines
48 WHERE FLORENCE I SEPTEMBER 2020 www.wheretraveler.com 49 ENTERTAINMENT ENTERTAINMENT
with delicious snacks to eat in. 10am till 9pm Santa Croce, and hosts all genres of performance. Visarno Arena (Sunday from 11am till 8pm). Historic venue in the Inaugurated in 1854, since 2000 it has been owned It is located inside the Ippodromo Visarno heart of Florence. www.procacci1885.it. Via de’ by the Orchestra of Tuscany, which is based there. racecourse, located in Florence in the Parco Tornabuoni, 64/r. T: 055 211656. Map E3 www.teatroverdifirenze.it. Via Ghibellina, 99. T: 055 delle Cascine. Surrounded by greenery and with SPA VENUES IN TUSCANY 212320. Map H4 seating for 60,000, the area is the favourite venue Teatro del Sale for major open-air events. Active since 2015, it A region rich in natural thermal springs, Tuscany offers nothing but an Theatre-club-lounge-restaurant inspired by Teatro Goldoni has already hosted, among others, concerts by Florentine celebrity chef Fabio Picchi – formerly Inaugurated in 1817 in the presence of Ferdinand embarrassment of choice from among the numerous structures spread out across the David Gilmour, Massive Attack, Einsturzende patron of the legendary Cibreo restaurant – and III of Habsburg-Lorraine, thanks to its proximity territory, particularly in the areas of Siena and Grosseto. In addition to the famous Neubauten, Sting and Duran Duran, but also the co-founder, president and artistic director Maria to Palazzo Pitti it soon became the court theatre. 2015 and 2016 editions of World Refugees Day. and historic Montecatini and Chianciano, full-blown health towns, there are more Cassi. Every day from 12-noon it serves a highly Oval-shaped, with 80 boxes distributed over www.visarnoarena.it. Parco delle Cascine (approx. “discreet” structures, often associated with resorts, offering a different experience of original brunch of buffet food and hot snacks at a four orders, the theatre experienced a period Bagni San Filippo two kilometres from the Central Station of Santa fixed price of 15 euros (20 euros on Saturday and of abandonment. After a lengthy restoration, relaxation and wellbeing. Here are some suggestions. (E.P.) Maria Novella). Off Map Sunday). From Tuesday to Saturday (7.30pm-9pm), it returned to its original pomp in 1998, with a dinner with after-dinner show, both at a fixed historical design by Italian director and actor Luca price of 30 euros. www.teatrodelsale.com. Via Ronconi. www.operadifirenze.it. Via Santa Maria, WELLNESS Bagni San Filippo www.adler-thermae.com. Strada di Bagno metabolism of the blood vessels. dei Macci, 111/r. (Sant’Ambrogio district). T: 055 15. T: 055 2779309. Map C6 Bené SPA A small town not far from the slopes of Vignoni, 1. San Quirico d’Orcia (Siena). Grotta Giusti, www.grottagiustispa.com. 2001492. Map I3 Teatro del Maggio This 5-star luxury Villa Cora spa is found on the Mount Amiata, famous for millennia for its T: 0577 889001. Via Grotta Giusti, 1411 - Monsummano ground floor of Villino Eugenia and connected The Teatro del Maggio is in the centre, beside sulphur waters, which were used by the Terme (Pistoia). T: 0572 90771. CONCERT VENUES the old city walls, next to the historic Stazione to the main hotel complex by an underground Etruscans, and for the white calcareous Castello di Velona & THEATRES Leopolda (see listing). The garden that welcomes tunnel. It comprises a tepidarium, leisure area, visitors is Piazzale Vittorio Gui, named after the small gym, sauna, hammam and three large deposits that form the small, spectacular An 11th-century fortress transformed into a San Casciano dei Bagni Teatro Comunale founder of the Stabile Orchestrale Fiorentina private cabins for personalised treatments. The hot water falls (48 °C) of the Fosso Bianco. residential villa in the Renaissance, the castle Classified among the “Most Beautiful The Teatro Comunale di Firenze is the city’s crowning glories are two prestigious partnerships: and the Florentine Maggio Musicale. Symphony Unlike the well-being and spa treatment - now a 5-star resort - is located on a hill Towns of Italy”, San Casciano stands on largest theatre. Overall, it occupies approximately concerts and operas are performed in a tailored face treatment products by beauty guru centre, access to this area is free of charge. overlooking the greenery of the Val d’Orcia. a hill immersed in the Siena countryside. half a block between corso Italia, via Magenta contemporary space in a large wood-covered hall. Sarah Chapman; and the body range from the and via Solferino. The main theatre has seating www.operadifirenze.it. Piazzale V. Gui, 1. historic Officina Profumo Farmaceutica di Santa Terme San Filippo, www.termesanfilippo. between Sant’Antimo and Montalcino. The Bagno Grande and the Bagno Bossolo for around 1800, but also part of the complex Off Map Maria Novella, founded in Florence in 1612. www. it. Via San Filippo, 23. T: 0577 872982. B&B The indoor and outdoor swimming pools are ancient washtubs where it is possible is a foyer called the “Piccolo Teatro”, which can villacora.it. Viale Machiavelli, 18. T: 055 228790. Il Fosso Bianco, Via San Filippo, 22. T: 392 (and the bathrooms of some of the rooms) to bathe freely, while there are indoor and hold a little under 600 spectators. The name Stazione Leopolda Off Map “Comunale” [Municipal] dates back to 1933, when Inaugurated in 1848, it was Florence’s first railway 3449596. Bagni San Filippo (Siena). use water from a nearby thermal spring outdoor baths, wellbeing treatments and the Florentine Maggio Musicale was established station: it was decommissioned, and today has Firenze Number Nine originating on Mount Amiata. a splendid resort at Fonteverde, sheltered (see entry), but the theatre itself dates back become a sought-after venue for meetings, This 4-star spa presents itself as an “Urban Bagno Vignoni Castello di Velona Resort Thermal SPA & by a magical garden with views of Mount Wellness Hotel” that claims to be “the only city to the second half of the 19th century. www. conferences and various events. A versatile, This tiny ancient stone village has one Winery, www.castellodivelona.it. Località La Amiata. operadifirenze.it. Corso Italia, 16. T: 055 27791. multifunctional space, it has its name associated centre spa under original 15th-century vaults.” unique and unforgettable characteristic: Velona, Montalcino (Siena). T: 0577 839002. Fonteverde. www.fonteverdespa.com. Map B2 with the recent history of Italy, being the venue of A 400-square metre spa offering a full range the event that launched the career of Florentine of treatments, open every day, also to outside at its centre is Piazza delle Sorgenti, an Località Terme, 1 - San Casciano dei Bagni Teatro Verdi politician Matteo Renzi. www.stazione-leopolda. guests, though the under 16’s are not admitted. ancient pool measuring 49x29 metres (not Grotta Giusti (Siena). T: 0578 57241. The largest “Italian-style” theatre in Tuscany Very well known, among Florentines too, is com. Viale Fratelli Rosselli, 5. T: 055 212622. for bathing) where the spar waters are The spectacular Grotta Giusti, on the is located in Florence, in the historic district of Map A1 the Arya Beauty & Comfort Zone, again linked to the hotel (but closed on Tuesdays). www. collected, gushing out at a temperature of outskirts of Montecatini, is a natural cave Saturnia - Cascate del Mulino firenzenumbernine.com. Via dei Conti, 9. T: 055 52 °C and shrouding the village in evocative that winds its way among stalactites and Among the most beautiful free thermal 293777. Map F3 steam during the cold months. stalagmites to a stretch of crystal clear baths in the world, the Cascate del Mulino Four Seasons SPA Albergo Le Terme, www.albergoleterme.it. water, the temperatures of which vary are small natural pools supplied by small A Four Seasons standard spa right in the heart of Piazza delle Sorgenti, 13. Bagno Vignoni di from 27°C to 34°C. Above all mud therapy waterfalls that form a unique, unrepeatable Florence. Ten body treatment cabins, a spa suite, San Quirico d’Orcia (Siena). T: 0577 887150. and balneotherapy are practised there in environment. Next to them, the Terme di plus open-air pool. Exclusive treatments like the Spa Resort Hotel Adler Thermae. baths enriched with ozone to stimulate the Saturnia complex has spring water pools, Chianti massage and Tuscan cypress scrub are just the start of your wellness journey. Treatments a wellbeing centre and a 5-star resort. for teens and children also available. The super- Cascate del Mulino, www.cascate-del- modern fitness centre is located in the quiet of mulino.info. Terme di Saturnia Spa & Golf the Gherardesca Garden. www.fourseasons.com. Resort, www.termedisaturnia.it. Borgo Pinti, 99. T: 055 26261. Map L1 Località Follonata, Saturnia - Manciano Golden Beauty & SPA (Grosseto). T: 0564 600111. This extremely stylish facility in the historic centre of Florence offers a Turkish bath, emotional Terme di Petriolo showers, hydromassage, sauna and treatment zone plus expert care and advice. Part of the The thermal baths are sited on a natural 5-star Golden Tower hotel, but also open to spring in the Valley dell’Ombrone, along the outside guests as the beauty centre annex every course of the River Farma. The waters, rich day from midday till 8pm. www.goldentowerhotel. in salts, gush out at a temperature of 43 °C it. Piazza Strozzi, 11. T: 055 287860. Map F4 and are traditionally used to treat various pathologies of the respiratory tracts. www. Il Villino SPA termedipetriolo.it. Strada Provinciale di A historic villa, completely renovated in 2014, the new Hotel Ville sull’Arno 5-star luxury boutique Petriolo, Monticiano (Siena). resort is very popular with Florentines. The Villino Petriolo Spa Resort, www.atahotels.it/ THE FLORENTINE MAGGIO MUSICALE is a unique spa, studded with original details, hotel/petriolo-spa-resort. Località Bagni di The Maggio is Italy’s first musical festival and since 1933 it was offered high-quality luxury materials, and hand-made decorations Petriolo, Frazione Pari, Civitella Paganico by Florentine craftsmen, offering a wide range Bagno Vignoni operas, concerts, dance shows and theatre events. The orchestra and the festival now (Grosseto). T: 0577 1606059. of treatments, from hydromassage to the ice live under the artistic direction of Zubin Mehta. www.operadifirenze.it cascade. www.planetariahotels.com. Lungarno C.
Colombo, 1/3/5. T: 055 670971. Off Map PHOTOS ©SHUTTERSTOCK.COM
50 WHERE FLORENCE I SEPTEMBER 2020 www.wheretraveler.com 51 MUSEUMS & FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHEREITALIA.COM/FLORENCE SIGHTSEEING | ATTRACTIONS www.museicivicifiorentini.comune.fi.it. Piazza della Piazzale Michelangelo ATTRACTIONS Signoria. T: 055 2768325. Map G4 Piazzale Michelangelo is the most famous and appreciated panoramic point in Florence, with its & MONUMENTS Ponte Vecchio views seen all over the world in million of postcards There has been a bridge at this point of the River Duomo and Cupola and reproductions. Dedicated to the city’s most Arno ever since before the year one thousand; yet, Completed in 1436, the religious building, whose famous artist, the square has bronze copies of some between floods and reconstructions, the official date official name is “Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore”, of Michelangelo’s most famous sculptures. Access of foundation of the current Ponte Vecchio is given as is third in terms of dimensions after St. Peter’s in to the Piazzale can be gained by car, along the tree- 1345. For the entire Middle Ages the bridge hosted Rome and St Paul’s Cathedral in London. The most lined Viale Michelangelo, or on foot, by climbing the greengrocers’, fishmongers’ and butchers’ shops, important artists of the period participated in its monumental flight of steps known as the “Rampe who used the river to dispose of their waste in a creation (the bell tower is by Giotto), while the famous del Poggi”. Map I7 multi-coloured marble façade dates back to the hurry. At the end of the 16th century, however, when it 19 th century. Brunelleschi’s Dome, still the tallest became the “noble” zone of the city, the goldsmiths San Miniato al Monte construction in the city, is a symbol known all over the and jewellers started to arrive, and they have been Not far from Piazzale Michelangelo, stands the world: it is possible to climb to the top (exclusively on there uninterruptedly to this day. To celebrate this Abbey of San Miniato al Monte, a medieval religious foot) up its 463 steps. www.ilgrandemuseodelduomo. history, on prominent display on the bridge is a building situated at one of the highest panoramic it. Piazza del Duomo, 3/5-6. T: 055 2302885. Map F2 bust of Benvenuto Cellini, the greatest goldsmith points in Florence. The most spectacular access is of the Renaissance. Access is gained to the bridge gained via the monumental flight of steps (which Battistero between via Por Santa Maria and Lungarno degli is not advisable, however, for those with problems Located opposite the Cathedral of Santa Maria del Archibusieri and between Borgo San Jacopo and via walking). The outside of the church is decorated Fiore, the Baptistery of St. John the Baptist is the de’ Guicciardini. Map F5 with green and white marble, typical of Florentine building that completes the considerably striking Romanesque, while a 12th-century mosaic Palazzo Pitti and Giardino di Boboli appearance of the square. Its origins are uncertain, decorates the central part of the façade. www. th The symbol of wealth and power, the building was but its first official dating is at least in the 12 century. sanminiatoalmonte.it. Via delle Porte Sante, 34. inhabited by the Medici, then by the Habsburg- It is characterised by an octagonal plan, lined with a T: 055 234 2731. Off Map dome of eight segments, covered by a pyramid roof. Lorraines and, after the Unity of Italy, by the Savoy The outside is decorated with white marble from family. The original architecture dates back to the Mercato Centrale Carrara and green marble from Prato, characteristics 15th century and “Pitti” is the surname of its first Built at the end of the 19th century, the project was of the Florentine architecture of the Romanesque owner. The building is located on the left bank of the entrusted to Giuseppe Mengoni, the architect of period. It has three famous doors, sumptuously river, at the foot of Boboli Hill. They are one of the the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele in Milan, who was decorated, and an interior that, with its marble and most important examples of Italian-style gardens inspired by Les Halles in Paris. Since 2014, on the first mosaics, is reminiscent of that of the Pantheon. Used in the world and are considered a genuine open-air floor of the historic covered market there has been in antiquity for the investiture of knights and poets, museum. Currently they are the site of four different a complex containing dozens of small restaurants, its praises are sung by Dante in the Divine Comedy. museums: the Treasury of the Grand Dukes, the leisure activities and street food options, and this www.ilgrandemuseodelduomo.it. Piazza di San Palatine Gallery and the Royal Apartments, the Gallery has now become a point of reference for informal Giovanni, 8. T: 055 2302885. Map F2 of Modern Art and the Museum of Fashion and but good quality cuisine for both Florentines Costume. They are connected to Forte di Belvedere. and tourists. www.mercatocentrale.it. Piazza del Campanile di Giotto www.uffizi.it/palazzo-pitti. Piazza de’ Pitti, 1. T: 055 Mercato Centrale/Via dell’Ariento. T: 055 2399798. 84.70 metres high and around 15 wide, a manifestation 294883. Map E6 Map F1 of 14th-century Florentine Gothic architecture, the Giotto’s bell tower is one of the four main components of the complex of Santa Maria del Fiore, in piazza del Michelozzo’s courtyard Duomo. Lined with white, red and green marble, like that adorning the Cathedral, the majestic square- based bell tower, designed by Giotto in 1334, can be visited by climbing no less than 414 stairs up to the top, from where you can enjoy extraordinary views of Brunelleschi’s Dome. www.ilgrandemuseodelduomo. The first Medici house it. Piazza del Duomo. T: 055 2302885. Map F3 The Renaissance began here: Lorenzo the Magnificent lived in Palazzo Medici Riccardi and the greatest Piazza della Signoria This is the central square of Florence, the seat of artists worked there. Today it is experiencing a second life as a cultural venue. By Elena Peverata civil power and social heart of the city. L-shaped, it is located at the centre of medieval Florence south of the Cathedral. Already important in the Roman new ticket office, a new bookshop, a Palazzo della Signoria. Taken over by Marquis >> www.palazzomediciriccardi.it Age, the square has been gradually enhanced over new logo – the classical shield with six Gabriello Riccardi, in the 17th century the building Palazzo Medici Riccardi. Via Cavour, 1 the centuries; facing onto it are Palazzo Vecchio (see entry), the splendid Loggia della Signoria, the “bezants”, commonly known as “palle” benefited from an enlargement of its spaces and A Tribunale della Mercanzia, Palazzo Uguccioni and [balls] – and new services for visitors: this is the arrival of other masterpieces. Unmissable from Palazzo delle Assicurazioni Generali. Also prominent the first, recently implemented stage of the the Medici period are the Magi Chapel, frescoed in the square are the Fountain of Neptune and a renovation that is awaiting Palazzo Medici in the 15th century by Benozzo Gozzoli, a work series of statues of Renaissance origin, representing Palazzo Pitti and its dynasties one of the most important sculptural cycles in the Riccardi, an iconic building of Florentine of rare beauty, as are the famous “Madonna with world. The most famous is certainly Michelangelo’s A palace for three dynasties, Palazzo Pitti is an extraordinary building located in the Oltrarno Renaissance architecture and a treasure chest Child” by Filippo Lippi, the elegant Michelozzo’s David: the one on display in its original position is a district, at the foot of ther Boboli Hill. The famous Boboli Gardens, which are the park of of masterpieces that until now have been rather courtyard and the Medici Gardens with the copy, whereas the original is conserved in the Galleria the palace, take their name from this hill. Palazzo Pitti contains four different museums: the underappreciated. The building was the first Limonaia [Lemon House]. The Riccardi were dell’Accademia. Map F4-G4 Treasures of the Grand Dukes (ground flloor and mezzanine) with vases made of semi-precious house of the Medici family and saw Cosimo the also responsible for the gallery of mirrors, with Palazzo Vecchio stones, rock crystals, ambers and ivories and an exceptional collection of Oriental porcelains; Elder and Lorenzo the Magnificent walk along its majestic vault frescoed by Luca Giordano Located in piazza della Signoria, today it is the seat the Palatine Gallery and Monumental Apartments (noble floor) with the world’s largest its corridors; a building where artists such as depicting the ”Apotheosis of the Medici”, the of the Municipal Council of Florence. It is the finest concentration of works by Raphael, the Gallery of Modern Art (second floor) hosting an synthesis of 14th-century civil architecture and is one Donatello, Michelangelo, Paolo Uccello, Benozzo collection of heads of the Roman Age in the important group of paintings by the Macchiaioli school; the Musem of Fashion and Costume of the best known civic buildings in the world. Its Gozzoli and Botticelli worked, it remained the Marble Museum and, recently reopened for imposing façade, abounding in history, the charm of (Palazzina della Meridiana) with 6,000 items from the 18th century to today. family’s until 1540, when Duke Cosimo I decided visits, the winding elliptical staircase designed its magnificent courtyards and its precious interiors Open Tues-Sun 8.15am-6.50pm. www.uffizi.it/palazzo-pitti. Piazza de’ Pitti, 1. Map E6 to leave the austere abode for the more strategic by Ferdinando Tacca. Benozzo Gozzoli, “Viaggio dei Magi” (1459) make it a site visited daily by hundreds of people.
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Santa Croce precious artworks by Sandro Botticelli, Domenico Chapel by Filippino Lippi. The cloisters present rare relationship between fashion and art. The museum Together with Santa Maria Novella, San Lorenzo FIRENZECARD www.firenzecard.it Ghirlandaio, Bartolomeo di Giovanni, Piero di examples of the Florentine painting of the 14th and is situated in Palazzo Spini Feroni (1289) – which and Santo Spirito, it is one of the “great basilicas”, Cosimo, Neri di Bicci and Luca and Andrea della 15th centuries. Open: Mon-Thurs 9am-7pm. Full ticket was purchased by Ferragamo in 1938 to make it the a point of reference of the Franciscan order: a Robbia. EDITOR’S TIP On the terrace the elegant price: €7.50. www.smn.it, www.museicivicifiorentini. headquarters for his company and his workshop – radiant example of Tuscan Gothic, it owes its sober Caffè del Verone offers beautiful panoramic views. comune.fi.it. Piazza Stazione, 4 - piazza Santa Maria and in its rooms it displays masterpieces of Florentine appearance of wooden trusses and terracotta floors to Open daily 10am-7pm. www.istitutodeglinnocenti. Novella, 18. T: 055 219257- 055 282187. Map E3 art from the 17th and 18th centuries. Open daily Franciscan charisma. Giotto painted some of his great it. Piazza Santissima Annunziata, 13. T: 055 2037308. 10am-7.30pm. Full ticket price €6. www.ferragamo. Museo Giardini di Boboli masterpieces here and the French writer Stendhal Map H1 com/museo. Palazzo Spini Feroni, Piazza Santa Trinita, Stretching out behind Pitti Palace are the marvellous experienced that profound artistic agitation that has 5/r. T: 055 3562-846/466. Map E4 Museo dell’Opificio delle Pietre Dure Boboli Gardens. It was the Medici who were first been known since then as the “Stendhal syndrome”. An elegant collection of works made of semi- responsible for designing their layout, creating the Museo Stefano Bardini The basilica contains the monumental sepulchres precious stones and multi-coloured marble and model of the Italian-style garden that was to become A connoisseur of art and an unbridled merchant in of Michelangelo, Galileo and Machiavelli. www. scagliola, paintings on stone and oil paintings, an example for many European courts. Populated antiquities, Stefano Bardini (1836-1922) donated his santacroceopera.it. Piazza Santa Croce, 16. T: 055 instruments, plus an extensive collection of stone by ancient and Renaissance statues, adorned with private collection to Florence, where it was displayed 2466105. Map H4 samples. The works are displayed in chronological grottos - including the famous Buontalenti Grotto - in the Neo-Renaissance building that housed his Santa Maria Novella order from the early 17th century to the 1880s. Open and large fountains, such as those of Neptune and antiquarian gallery. There are over 2000 items there, Together with Santa Croce, San Lorenzo and Santo Mon-Sat 8.15am-2pm. Closed on Sundays and the Ocean, they are a genuine open-air museum. The including sculptures, paintings and objects of applied Spirito, it is one of the “great basilicas”, a point of Firenzecard costs €85, allows access to 78 museums and is valid for 72 hours from holidays. www.opificiodellepietredure.it. Via degli terraced area includes the Rococò pavilion known as arts, from ancient art to that of the 18th century, with reference of the Dominican order. Its foundation dates the initial entry to a museum on the Circuit. It can be purchased online or from one Alfani, 78. T: 055 218709. Map H1 the Kaffeehaus and the Limonaia, the Lemon House. a major presence of works from the Middle Ages and back to the end of the 13th century but work on it At the centre of the Rose Garden is the Palazzina the Renaissance. Open Fri-Sat-Sun-Mon 11am-5pm. of the authorised sales points in Florence. It includes: Museo di Palazzo Vecchio continued for centuries, so the church, with its elegant del Cavaliere, which houses the Porcelain Museum. Full ticket price €6. www.museicivicifiorentini.comune. • 1 entry ticket + 1 exhibition supplement + 1 priority ticket for each museum on For over seven centuries Palazzo della Signoria, façade by Leon Battista Alberti, is a harmonious Closed first and last Monday of the month. Full ticket fi.it. Via dei Renai, 37 (Ponte alle Grazie). T: 055 or Palazzo Vecchio, has been the symbol of the synthesis of Gothic and Renaissance styles. The church the Firenzecard circuit price: €10. www.uffizi.it. Piazza Pitti, 1. T: 055 23885. 2342427.Map G6 city’s civil power, and today it is still the seat of the of Santa Maria Novella hosts exceptional works of • Priority access to museums without booking, except for the Dome, Galleria Map E6 Municipal Council of Florence. Built in 1299, over Orsanmichele art by Masaccio, Giotto, Brunelleschi, Filippino Lippi, degli Uffizi and Galleria dell’Accademia, where the booking is required but free. time it has undergone numerous enlargement and Museo Nazionale del Bargello A unique, extraordinary monument, in which civil Domenico Ghirlandaio and Paolo Uccello. www.smn. transformation projects. Along its labyrinthine routes This imposing building, built between the 13th and religious functions are combined. Built as a it. Piazza Stazione, 4 - piazza Santa Maria Novella, 18. T: are rooms and private environments sumptuously and 14th centuries as the seat of the Podestà and granary, in the mid-14th century it was consecrated 055 219257. Map D2-E2 Library €8.50. www.bmlonline.it. Piazza di San Lorenzo, Forte di Belvedere for Christian worship. On the ground floor the Church 9. T: 055 2937911. Map F2 At the end of the 16th century, Ferdinando de’ Medici decorated by some of the most famous artists of the the Council of Justice, was a lowly prison between houses a grandiose marble tabernacle by Orcagna. Santo Spirito commissioned Bernardo Buontalenti to design a Florentine Renaissance, with period furnishings and 1574 and 1858. The Museum conserves a highly The originals of the numerous sculptures (works by Together with Santa Croce, San Lorenzo and Santa Cappella Brancacci fortress on the top of Boboli Hil. The fort currently exceptional masterpieces. Open daily, 9am-11pm; important collection of Renaissance sculptures, famous Florentine artists from the 15th and 16th Maria Novella, it is one of the “great basilicas”, a The Church and the Convent of Santa Maria del hosts top-level events and exhibitions. Open Thursdays throughout the year: 9am-2pm. Museum with masterpieces by Donatello, Luca della Robbia, centuries) that adorned the niches outside on the point of reference of the Augustinian order. The Carmine, dating back to the mid-13th century, house exclusively on the occasion of temporary exhibitions. full ticket price: €10. www.museicivicifiorentini. Verrocchio, Michelangelo, Cellini and Giambologna, four sides of the imposing stone cube are conserved church has given its name to the entire surrounding the Brancacci Chapel, a masterpiece that is universally Full ticket price: €3. www.museicivicifiorentini.comune. comune.fi.it. Piazza della Signoria. T: 055 2768325. and prestigious collections of “lesser arts”. Open in the museum on the first floor. On the second floor neighbourhood, “Borgo Santo Spirito”, located renowned for the frescos of the cycle of Scenes fi.it. Via San Leonardo, 1. Map F7 Map G4 daily 8.15am-1.50pm. Museum full ticket price: €9. “Oltrarno”, that is on the left bank of the river. A from the Life of St. Peter by Masaccio and Masolino www.bargellomusei.beniculturali.it/musei/1/bargello. you can enjoy a fine panoramic view of Santa Maria Museo di Santa Maria Novella jewel of Renaissance architecture, the church was da Panicale. Executed in 1425-1427, they were left Galleria degli Uffizi Via del Proconsolo, 4. T: 055 282902. Map G4 del Fiore. Classical music concerts are held here. The complex of Santa Maria Novella includes the the last great project by Filippo Brunelleschi. www. unfinished and were eventually completed by Filippino The Gallery occupies the whole of the first and second Church (ground floor): open daily 10am-4.50pm. Free 13th-century Dominican Basilica and the monumental Museo Salvatore Ferragamo basilicasantospirito.it. Piazza Santo Spirito, 30. T: 055 Lippi between 1481 and 1482. You are advised to book floors of the large building erected between 1560 and entry. www.bargellomusei.beniculturali.it/musei/3/ cloisters. The church contains extraordinary works This is a museum devoted to the history of the 210030. Map D5 (T: 055 2768224-8558). Open Mon-Sat 10am-5pm, 1580 based on a project by Giorgio Vasari; it is one of orsanmichele. Via dell’Arte della Lana, 1. T: 055 Sun and holidays: 1pm-5pm. Full ticket price: Wed-Fri the most famous museums in the world on account such as Giotto’s Crucifix, Masaccio’s Holy Trinity, Ferragamo company, to the life of its founder, 2388606. Map F4 San Lorenzo €6; Sat-Sun-Mon: Brancacci Chapel+Fondazione of its extraordinary collections of ancient sculptures Brunelleschi’s Crucifix, the Tornabuoni Chapel Salvatore Ferragamo, and to his creations. Every Santa Maria del Fiore Together with Santa Croce, Santo Spirito and Santa Salvatore Romano €7. www.museicivicifiorentini. and paintings. The collections of paintings from the by Ghirlandaio and his workshop and the Strozzi year it organises exhibitions that investigate the The monuments of the complex of Santa Maria Maria Novella, it is one of the “great basilicas” of comune.fi.it. Piazza del Carmine, 14. T: 055 2768224- 14th century and the Renaissance contain a number del Fiore, the symbol in Florence throughout the Florence, founded, according to the tradition, by 558-2382195. Map C5 of absolute masterpieces: from Giotto to Botticelli, world, are a single large open-air museum, a unique Saint Ambrose, the first bishop of Milan, in the fourth from Leonardo to Canaletto. There are also important combination of art, faith and history located in the century AD: it is therefore one of the oldest churches in Cappelle Medicee collections by German, Dutch and Flemish painters, city’s main square, the religious, historical and artistic the city. Its current appearance, however, is the result Since 1869 the Medici Chapels have been a state including Dürer, Rembrandt and Rubens. Open Tues- centre of Florence. The Duomo (Santa Maria del of the last major reconstruction work that took place in museum, but their history is closely associated with Sun 8.15am-6.50pm. Closed on Mondays. Museum full Fiore), Brunelleschi’s Dome, the Baptistery the 15th century at the wishes of the Medici and under that of the Basilica di San Lorenzo, of which they ticket price: €20. www.uffizi.it. Piazzale degli Uffizi, 6. T: of Saint John, Giotto’s Bell tower , together with the direction of the great architect Filippo Brunelleschi. are part. The museum consists of the New Sacristy, 055 23885.Map F5 Its bare stone façade was intended to receive a designed and conceived as regards its sculptural the Crypt of Santa Reparata and the Museo rich marble decoration designed by Michelangelo, furniture by Michelangelo, the Chapel of the Princes, Galleria dell’Accademia di Firenze dell’Opera del Duomo are all visitable with a single which unfortunately was never executed. The interior a monumental mausoleum built using semi-precious The Galleria owes its vast popularity to the presence of ticket that can be purchased online (full price €18), is a masterpiece, also embellished by sculptures stones, the Crypt, where the Medici Grand Dukes and a number of sculptures by Michelangelo: the Prisoners, with prior booking necessary for the Dome. by Donatello of rare expressive intensity. www. their relatives are buried, and the Lorenese Crypt, St. Matthew, but above the famous David, transported www.ilgrandemuseodelduomo.it. Piazza del Duomo. operamedicealaurenziana.org. Piazza di San Lorenzo, which contains the funeral monument to Cosimo the here from Piazza della Signoria (where it was T: 055 2302885. Map G2-G3 9. T: 055 216634-055 214042. Map F2 Elder. Open daily 8.15am-1.50pm. Closed: 1st, 3rd, 5th replaced by a faithful copy) in August 1873. Housed Villa Bardini and Gardens Monday and 2nd, 4th Sunday of the month,. Full ticket in the adjacent premises are works coming from the The most beautiful view of Florence earned it price: €8. www.bargellomusei.beniculturali.it/musei/2/ Academy of Design, the Academy of Fine Arts and MUSEUMS & the name “Villa Belvedere”. Today Villa Bardini, a medicee | www.operamedicealaurenziana.org. Piazza the convents themselves, which were abolished in the place rich in history, art and culture, has become EXHIBITION SITES Madonna degli Aldobrandini, 6. T: 055 282984. Map F2 Napoleonic Age. And also, the Gipsoteca, or Hall of an exhibition centre, which, along with temporary
Models, the collection of Russian icons and musical STOCKPHOTOVIDEO / SHUTTERSTOCK.COM Biblioteca Medicea Laurenziana exhibitions, also hosts the Pietro Annigoni Museum Fondazione Palazzo Strozzi instruments of the courts of the Medici and Lorena Part of the museum complex of the Basilica di San (www.museoannigoni.it), dedicated to the great Palazzo Strozzi is one of the finest examples of private families. Open Tues-Sun 8.15am-6.50pm. Closed Lorenzo, it is one of the finest examples of the realist painter, and the Roberto Capucci Museum architecture of the Renaissance and a dynamic cultural on Mondays. Museum full ticket price: €12. www. architecture of Michelangelo. Commissioned by Pope PHOTO © (www.fondazionerobertocapucci.com, currently being centre that hosts international level exhibitions, galleriaaccademiafirenze.beniculturali.it. Via Ricasoli , Clement VII (a Medici) and completed at the wishes restructured). In addition, there is also a Michelin- ranging from ancient art to the Renaissance, to 58/60. T: 055 2388609/612. Map G2 of Grand Duke Cosimo I in 1571, entry is gained by contemporary art. Always present are an exhibition MUSEO DEL BARGELLO starred restaurant inside it, La leggenda dei Frati ascending the monumental staircase designed by devoted to Palazzo Strozzi, the café and the museum Museo degli Innocenti The National Museum of the Bargello is located inside the Palazzo of the same name from (see “Dining”), and surrounding it are four hectares Michelangelo and built by Bartolomeo Ammannati shop, which looks out onto the Renaissance courtyard, The Museum is located in the ancient Spedale degli the 13th century, the oldest public building in Florence. Its collection of Renaissance statues of woodland, an Italian-style garden and a kitchen in 1559. The Library conserves approx. 11,000 Greek, where concerts, performances, contemporary art Innocenti, designed by Brunelleschi. Opened in 1445 is considered among the most significant at world level: it in fact includes masterpieces by garden and orchard. Open Tues-Sun 10am-7pm. Latin and Oriental manuscripts, often richly miniated, installations and theatrical plays are organised. Open as a refuge for abandoned children, today it continues Closed on Mondays. Full ticket price €8. Full ticket Michelangelo, Donatello, Ghiberti, Cellini, Giambologna, Ammannati and other important dating from the 5th to the 19th century, in addition daily and holidays 10am-8pm, Thurs 10am-11pm. its function as the “Institute of the Innocents”. The price €10 (with Boboli Gardens and the Porcelain to papyruses and rare print editions. Open Mon-Fri Museum full ticket price: €12. www.palazzostrozzi.org. museum itinerary combines the documentary and sculptors, in addition to a large applied arts collection. www.bargellomusei.beniculturali.it Museum). www.villabardini.it. Costa San Giorgio, 2 - 9.30am-1.30pm. Full ticket price: Basilica + Medici Piazza Strozzi. T: 055 2645155. Map E3 historical-artistic heritage, and in its Gallery hosts Via dei Bardi, 1/r. T: 055 20066233. Map G6-G
54 WHERE FLORENCE I SEPTEMBER 2020 www.wheretraveler.com 55 ESSENTIALS FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHEREITALIA.COM/FLORENCE
Emergency UNIQUE | FAST TRAINS NETWORK FROM FLORENCE AMBULANCE – T: 118 POLICE – T: 055 3285 FIRE SERVICE – T: 115 PASSPORTS Questura di Firenze, Via Zara, 2. T: 055 49771. Taxi TAXI FIRENZE 4242.IT T: 055 4242 - www.4242.it TAXI FIRENZE 4390 T: 055 4390 - www.4390.it www.apptaxi.it/firenze: available for iOS and Android, it has more than 4045 licensed taxi drivers. Fixed taxi fares to airports From Amerigo Vespucci Airport to Florence (city centre): €22 (plus baggage supplements and extra fee for night or holiday travel). From Florence (city centre) to Pisa: €140 / Bologna: €180 / Rome Fiumicino: €550 / Milan Linate: €550 / Milan Malpensa: €650 Trains The most important railway station is Santa Maria Novella (SMN), in the central Piazza della Stazione, and regional, interregional, high-speed and international trains arrive at and depart from there. Florence offers fast-track access to major cities across Italy thanks to its high-speed trains: • Bologna: 35 min • Rome: 1 hour 20 min • Milan: 1 h 40 min • Venice: 2 hours 5 min • Naples: 2 hours 52 min • Turin: 2 hours 55 min TRENITALIA Railway Company - Info T: 892021. www.trenitalia.com.
SHUTTERSTOCK.COM ITALO - Info T: 060708. Italo Assistance T: 892020. www.italotreno.it.
PHOTO © Airports of Florence (which is approximately the part AEROPORTO DI FIRENZE PERETOLA Getting around Florence located within the 19th- century ring-roads or viali, “AMERIGO VESPUCCI” (FLR) - ATAF - Azienda Trasporti dell’area Fiorentina/ which is a protected UNESCO heritage site) is a (4 km from the centre of Florence). The airport, Local Public Transport Company - www.ataf.net “Zona a Traffico Limitato” (ZTL), or restricted traffic to the North-West of Florence, lies between Infoline daily 6am-9pm. Green Line T: 800 424500; zone. Bicycles, electric vehicles, motorcycles and the “Firenze Nord” exit from the freeway and from mobile: T: 199 104245. ATAF Point-Customer scooters are allowed to enter. The museum city Florence’s industrial area near Prato. Call centre Care Railway Station Firenze S.M. Novella – Offices T: 055 30615. www.aeroporto.firenze.it no. 8 and no. 9. Open Mon-Sat 6.45am-8pm. Lost Within its historic centre (declared a “UNESCO world heritage site” en bloc) Florence contains a unique • Connections to the airport and Found on ATAF vehicles: Mon-Wed-Fri 9am- Tourist Information VolaInBus Shuttle Service (www.fsbusitalia.it) from 12.30pm; Tues-Thurs 2.30pm-4pm. Via Veracini, 5 INFOPOINT FIRENZE TURISMO - concentration of historical and artistic attractions. Here is some guidance for you to enjoy it. S.M. Novella Station (Piazza della Stazione). Every (int. 5). T: 055 334802. www.firenzeturismo.it 30 min, travel time approx. 30’ (5am-8pm) and Ordinary ticket (€1.20) valid for 90 minutes. 1. Train Station Infopoint > Piazza della Stazione, 4. approx. 1 h (10pm-midnight). Tickets can be T: 055 212245. Open Mon-Sat 9am-7pm; Sun and lorence’s labyrinthine plan, made up of only allowed into the centre to load and unload Boboli Gardens and Borgo Santo Spirito, the city’s Can be used on buses, trams or trains. purchased on board, at the BusItalia-Sita Nord Ticket 2x90’ (€2.40). Ticket 4x90’ (€4.70). holidays 9am-2pm. Multilingual tourist information alleyways and sidestreets, derives from your luggage at your hotel (but always ask your most bohemian neighbourhood. For decades the ticket office near the S.M. Novella Station Daily ticket: 24-hour ticket (€5). 3-day ticket (€12). and sales point for Firenzecard. its medieval origins. Yet the city’s period concierge, also so you can receive indications of Florentine naming system has had a peculiarity (Via S. Caterina da Siena) or at ATAF ticket offices 7-day ticket (€18). Daily Family: one-day ticket for 2. Tourist Information Office > Via C. Cavour, 1/R. F (www.ataf.net). One-way ticket: €6 - round trip T: 055 290832. Open Mon-Fri 9am-1pm. Free of maximum splendour was undoubtedly the where the car parks are located in the centre). To that is gradually disappearing, but some traces one family of 4 (€6). Nottetempo Ticket: one-day ticket: €10. brochures and complaints service. Sales point for Renaissance, of which countless masterpieces find your way around the city, it is a good idea of it can still be found: the civic numbers, in fact, ticket from 10pm to 3am). A further step in the digital Firenzecard. remain. With less than four hundred thousand to keep well in mind that Florence is developed were divided between “black”, which denoted he NEW AEROPORTO DI PISA “GALILEO GALILEI” (PSA) transformation of Florence’s public transport: 3. Bigallo Infopoint > Piazza San Giovanni, 1. T: inhabitants and covering an area of little more along the two banks of the River Arno. All the residences, and “red”, for businesses. Some red - (80 km from the centre of Florence). today you can travel on buses (ATAF, Volainbus 055 288496. Open Mon-Sat 9am-7pm; Sun and than a hundred square kilometres, Florence roads that run alongside the river, on both sides, numbers still remain, so bear that in mind. Call centre T: 050 849300. and The Mall) by paying fast and safe with your holidays 9am-2pm. Quick information service. 4. Airport Infopoint > Piazza San Giovanni, 1. T: 055 is practically impossible to tour by car, and in are called “Lungarno” and it is only the second Finally, some suggestion for improving your visit. www.pisa-airport.com debit/credit/pre-paid contactless cards. 315874. Open daily 9am-7pm. fact the centre is to a large extent prohibited to part of the name that changes. Lungarno degli The Tuscan regional capital is one of the cities with • Connections to Florence-S.M. Novella The Tramway T1 “Leonardo” connects S.M. Station and Aeroporto di Firenze Peretola Novella Station in Florence to Scandicci TOURIST CONTACT CENTRE – T: 055 000 vehicle traffic. We suggest, if possible, that you Archibugieri, for example, is right in the centre: the highest tourist density on the entire planet: Shuttle Services: 1) Terravision – One-way ticket: (www.gestramvia.com). The new line Tramway Info about services for tourists, exhibitions, tour it on foot, to best enjoy its beauties, but it is there that the Vasari Corridor passes and wherever you wish to visit, book in advance €4.99 - round trip ticket: €9.98. Every 30 or 60 min, T2 “Vespucci” connecting the Airport with events, opening times of museums, how to you can also count on quite an efficient public the Uffizi looks out over it. The whole area on (or have them book for you at your hotel). travel time approx. 70’ (9am-midnight) and approx. S.M. Novella Station has been activated on move around the city. Available daily 9am-7pm transport network (which, however, is severely the other side of the river, to the south, is called You should also bear in mind that the serious 1 h (10pm-midnight). www.terravision.eu February 2019. Electric buses move around the in Italian, English, French, German and Spanish. 2) Autostradale – T: 02 30089000. One-way ticket: historic centre and also reach the pedestrian Via email ([email protected]) you can limited during the nighttime hours, so take care “Oltrarno” by the Florentines. It was originally overcrowding takes place around mid-morning, €7.50 - round trip ticket: €13.50. Every 30 or 60 min, areas (C1-C2-C3-D lines). WHERE TIP Route ask for information in any language, including after midnight). Taxis and bikes can reach all the outside the historic centre, but today it contains so if you are an early bird then that could give you travel time approx. 70’ (9am-midnight) and approx. C1 is convenient for visiting the most important Portuguese, Chinese, Japanese, Russian and Arabic strategic points, whereas private cars are usually important attractions, such as Pitti Palace, the a significant advantage. 1 h (10pm-midnight). www.autostradale.it museums in Florence.The entire historic centre (answers within 24 hours).
56 WHERE FLORENCE I SEPTEMBER 2020 www.wheretraveler.com 57 V A SI E S T E S E
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VIA POMPEO NERI VIA DELLE FORBICI Monumento al principe indiano Parrocchia P. BERNARDO LARGO dell'Ascensione TANUCCI G. BARTOLINI Villa Fabbricotti VIA SAN DONATO V I A E N R I C O M AY E R VIA TRIESTE TERZOLLE V I A G . B A R B E R A VIALE DELL'AERONAUTICA V I A . G . F A B VIA FAENTINA TINI PIAZZA MUGNONE VIA FRANCESCO BARACCA B R O N GIAMPIETRO VIA BEZZECCA ROT M DLEI A I V Parrocchia Immacolata I V. S . B U O N S I G N O R I VIA GIOVANNI DE' MARIGNOLLI VIEUSSEUX e San Martino a Montughi OFF V. F. CARACCIOLO V V I A L A VIA GAETANO MILANESI I A D I N O C O M PA G N I VIA SAN DONATO V I A T R E Parco Liceo V AI C G . U A S T I V I A R A F F A E L L O L A M B R U S C H I N I VIA MADONNA DELLE QUERCE Leonardo da Vinci V. O. DA PORDENONE VIA TRIESTE N IA GIOVANNI BOCCACCIO VIA CIRCONDARIA T O V A C I S R O C E L A I V V I A M A F F E I Chiesa della B.V. M LARGO Madre della CESARE Orti del Parnaso Divina Provvidenza MUGNONE V IA M A R A G L IA N O CANTÙ
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V I A R E I M S I C O I NLEONARDO Porta Romana VIA FRANCESCO BOCCHI L ONI
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Chiese Parrocc. Corpus Domini VIA DEL BISARNO O
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VIA ERTACANINA VIA DI PORTA ROMANA
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VIA DEL BOBOLINO Palazzo dei Vescovi
ELIA DALLA COSTA VIA DEL BANDINO
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L VIA DELLE PORTE SANTE
Chiesa di San Piero in Palco A VIA UNIONE SOVIETICA
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VIA PORTOGALLO
V I A G I R A M O N T E RBOSA
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VIASANTADI MARGHERITA AMONTICI
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SCANDICCI Presidio Ospedaliero Firenze Centro Piero Palagi DI BADIA A RIPOLI O
VIA DELL E V I L A L I V AI S A N M A R C E L L NI O E L G A
VIA MARCO POLO
V AI B E N E D E T T O F O R T NI ,I
VIA DEl PARADISO
DUE STRADE
VIA MARCO POLO
V I A G I O V A N N I A G N E L L I
VIA GIOVANNI AGNELLI
VIA DI SANTA MARGHERITA A MONTICI
VIA DELLE CINQUE VIE
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GALLUZZO
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5 STARS Adler Cavalieri – Via della Scala, 40 • Map C1 Pontevecchio Suites & SPA – Via De’ Belfredelli, 9 • Map E5 Belmond Villa San Michele – Via Doccia, 4 (Fiesole) • Albani Firenze – Via Calzaiuoli, 6 • Map F3 Rapallo – Via Santa Caterina d’Alessandria, 7 • Off Map Off Map Continentale – Vicolo dell’Oro, 6/r • Map F4 Roma –Piazza Santa Maria Novella, 8 • Map E3 Bernini Palace – Piazza S. Firenze, 29 (Piazza della Signoria) • Dei Cavalieri Relais Monna Lisa – Borgo Pinti, 27 San Firenze Suites e SPA – Piazza di S. Firenze, 3 • Map G4 Map G4 • Map H2 San Gallo Palace – Via Lorenzo Il Magnifico, 2 • Off Map Four Seasons Hotel Firenze – Borgo Pinti, 99 • L1 Executive Firenze – Via Curtatone, 5 • Map B2 Santa Maria Novella – Piazza Santa Maria Novella, 1 • Map E2 Golden Tower Hotel & Spa – Piazza degli Strozzi, 11/r • Map E4 FH55 Calzaiuoli – Via Calzaiuoli, 6 • F3 Torre Guelfa – Borgo SS. Apostoli, 8 • Map F4 Helvetia & Bristol Firenze – Via dei Pescioni, 2 • Map E3 FH55 Grand Hotel Mediterraneo – Lungarno del Tempio, 44 UNAHOTELS Vittoria Firenze – Via Pisana, 59 • Off Map Hotel Regency Firenze – Piazza M. D’Azeglio, 3 • Map L1 • Off Map Hotel Savoy – Piazza della Repubblica, 7 • Map F3 Gallery Hotel Art – Vicolo dell’Oro, 5 • Map F4 LUXURY HISTORIC ACCOMMODATIONS Il Salviatino – Via del Salviatino, 21 (Fiesole) • Off Map Ginori al Duomo – Via de’ Ginori, 22/24/26 • Map F1 Antica Torre Tornabuoni – Via de’ Tornabuoni, 1 • Map E4 Lungarno – Borgo San Jacopo, 14 • Map F5 Glance Hotel In Florence – Via Nazionale, 23 • Map E1 Be One Art and Luxury Home – Via dei Brunelleschi, 1 Montebello Splendid – Via G. Garibaldi, 14 • Map B1 Grand Hotel Adriatico – Via Maso Finiguerra, 9 • Map C2 • Map F3 NH Collection Firenze Porta Rossa – Via Porta Rossa, 19 • Horto Convento Firenze – Viale L. Ariosto, 13 • Map B4 Palazzo Niccolini al Duomo– Via De’ Servi, 2 • Map G2 Map E4 Hotel Cellai – Via 27 Aprile 14, 52/r • Off Map Palazzo Vecchietti – Via degli Strozzi, 4 • Map E3 Hotel Degli Orafi – Lungarno degli Archibusieri, 4 • F5 4-STAR BOUTIQUE HOTELS Portrait Firenze – Lungarno degli Acciaiuoli, 4 • Map F4 Hotel Londra – Via Jacopo da Diacceto 16/20 • Map C1 AdAstra – Via del Campuccio, 53 • C6 Relais Santa Croce – Via Ghibellina , 87 • Map H4 J & J – Via di Mezzo, 20 • I3 Grand Amore Hotel & Spa – Via de’ Servi, 38/a • Map H1 Sina Villa Medici – Via Il Prato, 42 • Map B1 Kraft – Via Solferino, 2 • B2 Messori Suites – Via A. Giacomini, 25 • Off Map The St. Regis Florence – Piazza Ognissanti, 1 • Map C31 L’Orologio – Piazza Santa Maria Novella, 24 • Map E2 Palazzo Castri 1874 – Piazza Indipendenza, 7 • Off Map The Westin Excelsior, Florence – Piazza Ognissanti, 3 Mercure Firenze Centro – Via Nazionale, 21-23/r • Map E1 Riva Lofts Florence– Via Baccio Bandinelli, 98 • Off Map • Map C3 NH Anglo American – Via G. Garibaldi, 9 • Map B2 Rivoli Boutique Hotel (S) – Via della Scala, 33 • Map D2 Villa Cora – Viale Machiavelli, 18 • Off Map NH Firenze – Piazza V. Veneto, 4 • Map A1 SoprArno Suites – Via Maggio, 35 • D5 Villa La Vedetta – Viale Michelangiolo, 78 • Off Map NilHotel – Via E. Barsanti, 27 • Off Map Ville sull’Arno – Lungarno Cristoforo Colombo, 1/3/5 Novotel Firenze Airport – Via Tevere, 23 (Sesto Fiorentino) • COUNTRY HOUSES • Off Map Off Map Il Paluffo – Via Citerna, 144-Fraz. Fiano
Villa Tolomei Hotel & Resort – Via di Santa Maria a Marignolle, Palazzo Gaddi (S) – Via del Giglio, 11 • Map E2 (Certaldo, Firenze) • Off Map FLORENCE CITY GUIDE
SEPT EMBER 2020 10 • Off Map Palazzo Ognissanti Hotel – Via Maso Finiguerra, 12/r ®
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SIGHTSEEING | MUSEUMS | SHOPPING | DINING | ENTERTAINMENT | MAPS [email protected] 60 WHERE FLORENCE I SEPTEMBER 2020 DISCOVER MORE