Some Account of the Cuisine Bourgeoise of Ancient Rome
283 XV.—Some Account of the Cuisine Bourgeoise of Ancient Rome. By H. C. COOTE, Esq. F.S.A. Bead December 13th, 1866. No one has yet written the history of the Roman palate, such as it became when the successes of that people had given occasion for its artificial cultivation. The Roman, consequently, has never been contemplated on this side of his character. This is not merely an omission in archaeology, it is a blank left in the annals of taste. And the omission is the more remarkable, as most other subjects of antiquity have been fathomed by the learned, down even to the shoe and the caliga. This subject alone caret vate sacro.a In saying this I do not of course mean that the subject has not been imperfectly touched upon, for all the world is familiar with the rhombus of Domitian, the mullus trilibris of Horace, the oysters of Rutupium, and the slave-fed murence of Yidius Pollio; while the dishes of nightingales' tongues served up to that inventive madman Helio- gabalus, and the culinary wonders of the Augustan writers, are known alike to learned and unlearned. But all these allusions have been fragmentary merely, meant to point a feeble moral,—not to expound principles of the cuisine. In a word, the writers have never thought of treating Roman cookery en cuisinier—the only way in which the subject can afford a rational interest to any one. Virtually, therefore, this subject has been left untouched by these authors. There is no excuse, however, for this neglect of Roman Cookery, for the amplest materials exist for its mastery and complete illustration.
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